Looks like a really good build. I will put part links in the end of the post. Here's some tips to save a bit of money if you're open to it:

1. Power supply: 550 watts is a great amount for this system. You could save some money by passing on the 80+ gold rating (although it's great to have a super efficient power supply, you don't need 80+ gold) and get a power supply that has an 80+ bronze efficiency rating. A power supply being fully modular isn't a must either, for me at least. A good semi-modular pick would be the Rosewill Hive 550, I have it and it has has sleeved black cables for about $55. If you want to save more money on the PSU, though, the EVGA basic 550W unit has all black cables and goes for around $43. Otherwise, the 600B from EVGA is a great 600W unit for around $50. Changing your power supply with these options might save you around $30-$40.
   
2. RAM: there are 16GB kits out there that are cheaper than the ones you selected, some are even in red to match your color scheme. I know there is a kit from Corsair that goes for around $80, so that might save you $20-$30 there. Otherwise, if you can't afford 16GB at the beginning of the build, 8GB will suffice until you upgrade. Just make sure if you get 8GB, get a single stick so you can throw another one in later. 8GB instead of 16 GB may save you $30-$40.
   
3. CPU cooler: The i5 6500 comes with its own stock cooler, so you can save around $25 by not paying for a CPU cooler right away. Otherwise, the 212 Evo is a superb cooler and also comes in a red LED fan version for a few bucks more :D
   
4. GPU: The GTX 1060 is a great option for a video card, but the RX 480 from AMD might be able to save you a few bucks right now and down the road. When you look to purchase another monitor, options with FreeSync (AMD adaptive sync) are normally cheaper than monitors with G-Sync (Nvidia adaptive sync). Adaptive sync monitors will make your gameplay smoother. Also, if you get a motherboard that supports crossfire, you can throw another RX 480 in your rig in the future. I will recommend you a motherboard for this at the end, and it won't cost you much more than your current one. An RX 480 8GB starts at around $230. Also, RX 480's are said to be better in DX12, another "future proofer".
   
5. Motherboard (minor): H110 is a budget chipset, and a Micro ATX one will save you a bit of money. BUT, if you want another RX 480, you'll need a motherboard with 2 PCIe slots to house them. An ATX motherboard will fill your case better, not look as awkward as a mATX one, and will let you put another RX 480 card in your rig in the future. A good ATX motherboard that would work for this build would be the Asus B150-PLUS for $95. This may be a bit expensive, but you could spend your saved money on this part. I highly suggest you exercise this option.
   
6. Storage: if 250GB is enough for you, then you could save some money by not getting a Samsung SSD. An SSD comparable to this would be the Crucial MX300 275GB for around $80. Also, the SanDisk z400s is $75 and is 256GB. If you want more storage, though, I would recommend a 120GB SSD like the PNY CS1311 for $40 and a 1TB hard drive like the WD Blue for $50.
   
   TL;DR: cut back on PSU efficiency ratings, look for different 16GB or even 8GB RAM kits, ditch CPU cooler (or keep if you want), get an RX 480 for saving money on future monitors, you can also put another RX 480 in your build in the future with a different motherboard; an ATX motherboard would fill your case and add capability for a second RX 480, a non-Samsung SSD could save you some money, while for $100, you can get an SSD and a 1TB hard drive.
   
   Links:
   EVGA 550W "basic" http://amzn.to/2gbEbeQ
   Rosewill Hive-550 http://amzn.to/2gbBtGe
   EVGA 600B http://amzn.to/2gtvZcH
   Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO LED http://amzn.to/2fJ7mHM
   RX 480 http://amzn.to/2gbIUgI (choose which one you like)
   Asus B150-PLUS http://amzn.to/2eVnuqj
   Crucial MX 300 275GB http://amzn.to/2fidOoq
   SanDisk Z400S 256GB http://amzn.to/2fifFtk
   WD Blue 1TB http://amzn.to/2fJcPhK
   
   I hope my advice helped you and that this didn't overwhelm you. If you save enough money, you could throw in a red LED PWM fan, which adjusts its speed based on your computer's needs. I had a lot of fun making this, thanks for posting, and happy gaming :D
   
   
   

Our mutual friend asked me to help you out. Sorry its kinda long but hope it helps.

General Thoughts about building your own computer:
IMO buying computer hardware is all about future proofing. If your not a hardcore enthusiast you want to buy what you are not going to need to upgrade for a long long time. For example my friend JUST upgraded his gtx8800+ to the new 780. His 8800 lasted him like 10 years. However, doing this usually means purchasing the top of the line hardware at the time which ofc is not always possible to do this with your budget. IMO If you are going to spend the money, spend a little more so that you are super happy and wont have any regrets. This is why if your budget doesnt fit a lot of people upgrade piece by piece. usually the video card is the last bit to be upgraded because they are the largest cost white being the quickest to go out of date. For example the same friend who recently upgraded to a 780 upgraded his case, cpu, motherboard, and ram 2 years ago to a decent i52500k & held off upgrading the video card till now. Also it is worth mentioning that the reason he opted for the 780 over anything else is because not only is it (arguably) the best video card it has improvements over the last generation chips. for example the 770 is just a beefier 680. The 780 runs the gk110 chip and also has larger bandwith etcetc (these things have been discussed to death on countless forums and i am just stating my opinion on it). I think that the 780 provides better future proofing and value retention.

Build Recommendations:
Now that my own general mindset has been given here are some recommendations to your build.

1. Instead of the 670 get a 770 for only a little more $ (link below)
   
   
2. You will need a larger watt power supply! i also recommend future proofing yourself with this. I personally purchased a 1200 watt corsair 4 years ago and it has lasted me through 2 builds and will last me quite a few more. Computer Cases follow this principle as well - they will last you numerous builds so get one that can scale with you. But i would recommend at least a 700w power supply. I believe the 670 requires around a 600w anyways. and you always want to have more than less.
   
   
3. Please also do not get home premium get at least Pro. Also you can probably download a cracked version of ultimate for free and can save some money this way. (cough ask someone for a copy cough).
   
   
4. A common thing first time builders forget is also a cpu heatsink. Do not use the stock one that comes with your cpu. i would recommend the Corsair h60 an all in one easy watercooling solution which i myself use. Easily allows you to overclock without all the hard work and money for conventional watercooling - and not a whole lot more expensive than the better aircooling solutions that i would recommend you get (2nd link below. its newer version than the one i have)
   
   
5. Last and least important. I would recommend getting a larger SSD. It is a pain in the ass not having enough storage for typical daily use, but maybe thats just me because i set all my default download locations to the desktop and i often find myself running out of space on my 256gb ssd. You can double the capacity of the crucial m4 for only another $20. Remember that windows will be about 30gb. and your ssd will only really be 59 gb.
   
   Company Opinions
   I hate Newegg and have had nothing but crappy experiences with them. I only purchase from them if absolutely necessary and cross my fingers. I almost buy exclusively from Amazon now as i have amazon prime and amazons customer service is unparalleled. I also usually get bad cases of buyer remorse and amazons no quibbles 30 day return with no restocking fee is awesome. + free shipping with prime.
   
   As for choice of mouse and keyboard im a razer fan =P.
   
   Final Remark:
   This is probably going to have you go over budget. I would recommend doing a piece by piece upgrade as you get the funds instead of compromising. At the end of the day do what you personally will be happy with and that wont give you regrets. A good friend of mine thinks way different from me about choosing of hardware and that is why i want to give you background on my thinking. If you have any questions feel free =].
   
   http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-SuperClocked-Graphics-02G-P4-2774-KR/dp/B00CZIQXBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373609361&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+770+acx
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1373610614&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair+h60

Your google-fu is weak;
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00D3IKKVA/ref=asc_df_B00D3IKKVA18250740?smid=A5Y5ZDGV1AKXL&tag=pricerunner-ce-3p-21&linkCode=df0&creative=22242&creativeASIN=B00D3IKKVA&ascsubtag=uk,27816,SEO,35,google;f0120409ba673673d3b6c8cdf09c7ccf

For reference, I paid 115$ for mine, and at 79 pounds the conversion rate is equal to about 133$.

You said you were planning on overclocking in another reply of yours, if that's the case I recommend the i5 4670k (Pretty sure you said you added it to your parts list in the other reply). If that's the case, I would recommend either the NZXT Kraken X40; http://www.amazon.co.uk/NZXT-Technologies-Premium-Performance-RL-KRX40-01/dp/B00ANJRTYS (98£) if you want to use a closed loop CPU cooler (you'll need a case that has 140mm fan mounts for the X40, but other CLC's use 120mm fans which makes them quite a bit louder, so it's a fair trade-off)

Or, the Noctua NH-D14; http://www.amazon.co.uk/NH-D14-Processor-LGA1366-LGA1156-LGA1155/dp/B002VKVZ1A (66£) if you want to go the air-cooling route. The NH-D14 comes with two 140mm fans and has mounts for 120mm and 140mm fans should you decide to change them out; personally, I wouldn't recommend doing that, since the two fans that come with it are some of the best 140mm PWM fans on the market, and because they too will be quieter in operation than their 120mm alternatives.

In reality, an NH-D14 will be fine for overclocking. It may max out at 95c in synthetic benchmarks, but in reality, you could game in the high 70's/low 80's, depending on ambient temperature, at 4.2-4.4Ghz, depending on how your chip performs. As long as the core voltage isn't over 1.25, you'll be fine. If you want something with a little bit better temperatures, or with more headroom to overclock, the NZXT Kraken X40 is the way to go.

It all depends on how much you want to spend, but the cheapest overclocking setup I could recommend to you, with the Asrock H87 Fatal1ty motherboard, i5-4670k, and NH-D14, buying all of these components off of Amazon, (Link for the i5 4670k; http://www.amazon.co.uk/Intel-Graphics-BX80646I74770-Generation-Technology/dp/B00CO8TBOW (167£) would be an extra 125£ cost for your budget, bringing your total to 685£. Not to mention you'd need a higher-wattage PSU, something in the 700-750 watt range, like the Seasonic X-750 Fully Modular PSU; http://www.amazon.co.uk/Seasonic-X-750-module-ATX12V-Supply/dp/B002VAFDQS/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1397013585&sr=1-1&keywords=SeaSonic+SS-750KM3 (140£)

So, to build an overclocking system, with solid, name brand, quality components all the way around, it'd cost you 230£ extra, bringing your total cost to 790£, or 1325$ american. And that's if you get the NH-D14. With the NZXT Kraken X40, with another fan on it along with the fan it comes with, would be 840£, or 1400$ american. Without the extra fan it'd be 820£; 1375$

And with the PCI wireless card it'd be 855£; add a blu-ray combo drive and a 770 instead of a 760, and it's 950£

Or, you could just get the i5 4670, the fastest locked quad-core i5 at 3.4Ghz, for 158£, which with the PCI adapter would bring your build total to 595£, or just under one thousand dollars american. With the Blu-ray drive also it'd run you about 645£, bringing your grand total to 1080$ american.

The reason I spent the last two hours reading reviews, looking up links, and sorting through statistics, is because I wanted to show that overclocking is not cheap. You'd be paying another 320$ american, or 192£, for another 10-20% performance. I'm not saying don't do it, I'm just trying to illustrate the true cost associated with it. Not to mention that for the NH-D14 or the NZXT x40, you'd need to move up to a full-size case, which would add further to the cost. My point is, that if you're new to this and just want a capable gaming machine for 1080p, you'd be much better off just getting the 4670, wireless card, and blu-ray combo drive; http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asus-BC-12D2HT-Blu-ray-Combo-Drive/dp/B00F0SQL6O/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1397014362&sr=1-6 (50£).

If this is something that really interests you, that you know you're going to invest a lot of hours in and not get bored of, then go ahead and pull the trigger on the overclocking build. If you do, it'd be worth it to save up enough to get a 770 instead of a 760, since it's about 10-20% ahead of the 760, performance wise. Your total cost would be 950-1000£.

tl;dr If you want a nice rig, use the i5 4670, get the wireless card and blu-ray combo drive, and have fun. If you want to turn this into a hobby, and you're willing to spend time (and a whole lot more money) on it, then get the 4670k, AsRock Fatal1ty H87, NH-D14, Seasonic X-750, and 770. And the wireless card and Blu-ray combo drive.

I hope I've fully illustrated the pros and cons of overclocking. It's not for everyone, and to be totally honest it can be the motherfucking-est pain in the ass at times (from mounting big-ass heavy heatsinks and spending hours researching technical details, and ultimately developing a huge knowledge and understanding of the subject that you can't talk about with anyone besides people on the internet) but in all honesty, I love it. You might too. I just wanted to be totally honest and up-front about the extra cost and difficulties, because it's totally fine if it's not something you'd want to get into.

Be aware, I mostly would do gaming PC builds over workstation ones since I do not personally do not do much more than a bit of video editing and gaming, you may want a 2nd opinion.

Cad seems to favor Nvidia GPUs and Nvidia has the most capable 4k60fps GPUs (although price/performance isn't great). You may want to consider the RTX 2080 Super which should be a little above the GTX 1080 ti (and similar performing RTX 2080) or get a 2080 ti but all should be able to handle 4k60fps pretty well (but 4k60fps ultra settings are going to still be pretty hard to do). Autocad doesn't seem very graphically intensive especially if you are more focused on 2D over 3D so you can probably get by with a much cheaper card (if you weren't looking at 4k60fps gaming). RTX 2070 Super is another option at slightly below RTX 2080 performance.

https://www.gamersnexus.net/images/media/2018/gpus/workstation/workstation-gpu-benchmark_autodesk-autocad.png

For the CPU, I usually recommend the R7 3700x for great all around performance but with AutoCAD being very single threaded heavy, the i7 9700k should perform a bit better. If you use other programs that can actually scale with more cores, the i9 9900k or R9 3900x may be a better overall CPU for you.

Ram should be a 2x16GB set of Micron E-Die since it is the best budget overclocking ram and should overclock to 3600mhz cas16 without breaking a sweat with higher speed or tighter timings being possible too. Lots of people over in /r/Autocad seem to push for getting 32GB RAM but 16GB will still work. Personally if I am using my computer for making money, I would get the 32GB.

Current cheapest set

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CdyV3C/crucial-ballistix-sport-lt-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr4-3000-memory-bls2k16g4d30aesc

Any of these with a model number xxxxxAESx is E-Die based (avoid the xxxBESx, xxxBETx, or xxxCESx stuff). Here is that list sorted by price/GB (sometimes 2 sets of 1x16GB will be cheaper than a single 2x16GB set).

https://pcpartpicker.com/products/memory/#s=403000,403200&m=12&Z=16384001,32768002&sort=ppgb&B=1300000000,2500000000&L=30,160&page=1

Lots of this really depend on what your workloads look like and the exact programs you are running. You may want to ask around /r/buildapcforme since this is a bit more than a simple question.

8 core/16 thread AMD R7 3700x build (+$169 for 12 core/24 thread R9 3900x)

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $329.00 @ B&H
CPU Cooler | Thermalright Macho Rev.B 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler | $49.90 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI B450 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $114.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $129.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Sabrent Rocket 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $109.98 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card | $734.89 @ OutletPC
Case | Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case | $66.99 @ Walmart
Power Supply | EVGA 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $60.73 @ Walmart
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1616.37
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1596.37
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-16 04:26 EDT-0400 |


8 core/8 thread Intel i7 9700KF build (+$100 for 8 core/16 thread i9 9900kF) -KF is the alternate to the -K series with a disabled iGPU but currently at a reduced cost.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-9700KF 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $349.89 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Thermalright Macho Rev.B 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler | $49.90 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock Z390 Extreme4 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $129.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $129.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Sabrent Rocket 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $109.98 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card | $734.89 @ OutletPC
Case | Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case | $66.99 @ Walmart
Power Supply | EVGA 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $60.73 @ Walmart
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1652.36
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1632.36
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-08-16 04:35 EDT-0400 |

Cheaper options would be getting the RTX 2070 Super ($500), the 6 core/12 thread R5 3600 ($200) or even 6 core/6 thread i5 9600k ($220) or, 2x8GB RAM ($66), 256GB or 512GB SSD ($40-60).

Edit: for some reason the my first choice of CPU cooler wasn't showing up on pcpartpicker so here is the direct Amazon link to the Scythe Mugan Rev B. for $46.54 after 5% off.

https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77

Your upgrade looks like it will be way cheaper than mine was.

I got the Rift on sale for $350, but my PC was like 10 years old with only a new SSD in it.

Ended up getting an i5-9600K + MSI Z390 Gaming Edge for $470, 16 GB of RAM, Cooler Master 212 EVO which turned out to be huge and a huge pain in the ass to install (I recommend watching the video on that page that I didn't notice until after I installed the thing with only it's Ikea-like instructions.), but that big fan means it's far quieter than the tiny stock fans processors usually come with. The i5-9600K does not come with a fan either, so I had no choice and this was the most popular one on NewEgg.

Also got myself an MSI Gaming X GTX 1070 used on Ebay for $270. And because it only has one HDMI port, I decided to use that for the RIFT because it was less risky, and got a Displayport to HDMI cable which supports audio for my monitor which has the speakers built in and does not have a Displayport connector. Only afterward while taking my PC apart however did I realize I had the HMDI cable plugged into my old card with a DVI adapter, and the Gaming X has a DVI port as well, so I could have saved the money on the cable. :(

Also at the last minute I had to run out and grab a Corsair 750W power supply because my perfectly good Coolermaster 750W power supply did not have an 8 pin connector for my CPU. Of course, when I got it home it did not have the 4 pin connector and the motherboard has both a 4 pin and 8 pin and I assumed both would be needed, but I gave it a shot and just having the 8 pin was fine. But now I wonder if just having the 4 pin would also have been fine. The damn manual doesn't have a thing to say about it being okay to just use one of them, but being an electrical engineer I have to assume they're both tied to the same rail on the board, so I'm just gaining a bit more copper to lower the voltage drop if I were to connect a 4 pin as well, and the system seems perfectly stable, so perhaps they included the second connector to help with overclocking. I dunno.

Anyway, final tally including the Rift without a third sensor was $1,339.

And if you're wondering why I didn't go with AMD, well, I could have but when I priced it out, I wasn't actually going to save that much. And the Intel seemed like it would perform better with both games and applications and would just be less likely to have any issues like the Vive and its wireless solution do with AMD processors.

Part of the reason the AMD was not much cheaper is the same MSI motherboard would have been more expensive as an AMD variant and while the AMD included a cooler, the Cooler Master one was only $30 and had a bigger fan which meant it would likely be quieter. Though the AMD does run at a lower wattage, so it could be a toss up. All I know is my old PC sounded like a jet engine when I started doing any heavy lifting with 3D graphics, and it was still kinda noisy otherwise, but now its super quiet and even when running 3D apps that MSI card which I specifically chose because it's one of the quietest, was indeed really quiet.

Speaking of the 1070, my god that is a monster of a card! I barely fit it in my case. And my case is a full size tower. But it has extra 3.5" bays down the bottom where I have my hard drives installed and I had to move them down some more to get it to fit and it only barely slid in behind the metal frame of the drive bay.

Only other thing to mention is while I had no problem fitting my two ram sticks on the motherboard, that Cooler Master cooler's fan would probably collide with one of the ram sticks if I were to install four in there. I think the fan can slide up and down on the cooler though, so perhaps as long as you have low profile ram, you could slide it up a smidge or two to make it fit. Something to consider if you think you may eventually want 32 or 64GB of ram.

Hey! It looks like you've got a pretty solid build started here! I just want to point out a few things to make your life just a little bit easier.

1. The motherboard you have will NOT work with the CPU that you've chosen. You picked a Z170A board, which works with the 6th and 7th generation (if BIOS is flashed) of Intel CPU's, and you're buying an 8th generation. So I would recommend this board or this one instead. Either will work, it just depends on how much money you want to spend.
   
2. Don't buy the power supply you've picked. It puts out way more wattage than you'll use, so I would recommend saving some money and maybe picking up this one. As a bonus it has an RGB fan, so that's kinda cool. It's also fully modular, meaning that you only need to plug the cables into the PSU that you need instead of having extras to hide in your case.
   
3. I'd also save some money on your RAM. This set is cheaper, faster, and only requires that you use two of your RAM slots instead of all four. More upgradeability in the future!
   
4. Think about if you really need 2TB of storage right now. The 1TB SSD you have picked out is going to be great, and if you're new to PC gaming it's going to have plenty of space for awhile. You can always pick up a new HDD (like the Seagate one you have in your cart) later down the road.
   
5. With the money that you've saved, I think that you could upgrade your graphics card from your 1060 (a GREAT option, don't get me wrong) to a 1070 like this one. (EVGA is a great company in my opinion, and I love their graphics cards.) It's a great contender for both 1440p and 1080p gaming!
   
6. Others have said to get a cheaper air cooler instead of opting for the water cooler that you've picked. If you decide to go that route (completely fine) I would maybe go with something like this if you want something extra beefy to keep your CPU cool, or this less beefy one. Either way, 8th generation CPUs run hot, so the water cooler you have would work great.
   
   So there ya go! I hope that you enjoy your new build, it's going to be amazing! If you PM me I'll add you on Steam and we can play some games together when your build is all set!

PCPartPicker Part List

|Type|Item|Price|
|:-|:-|:-|
|CPU|AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor|$117.98 @ Amazon|
|Motherboard|ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard|$74.98 @ Amazon|
|Memory|Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory|$82.99 @ Amazon|
|Storage|Sabrent Rocket 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive|$59.98 @ Amazon|
|Video Card|XFX Radeon RX 580 8 GB GTS XXX ED Video Card|$179.99 @ Amazon|
|Case|In Win G7 ATX Mid Tower Case|$42.00 @ Amazon|
|Power Supply|EVGA GD (2019) 600 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply|$66.77 @ Amazon|
|Case Fan|Rosewill ROCF-13001 38.2 CFM 120 mm Fan|$14.99 @ Amazon|
|Custom|Fancasee 4-Pin PWM Fan Power Supply Cable 1 to 5 Splitter 5 Way PC Case Internal Motherboard Fan Power Extension Cable Cord Wire for ATX Computer Case 4-Pin and 3-Pin Cooling Fans (13 inch, Black)|$7.90 @ Amazon|
||||
|Total|$647.58||
|Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-22 11:45 EDT-0400|||

CPU: The AMD Ryzen 5 2600 with 6 cores and 12 threads should handle any workload you throw at it and gaming is a breeze. This is an overclockable chip so if you want to try doing that later on you can do so no problem.

Motherboard: The ASRock B450M PRO4 is a great motherboard and can handle overclocking if you want to try that in the future and has WiFi and Bluetooth built in.

RAM: The Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB kit has the speed that Ryzen demands. 3200 is a great speed for this gen and does a wonderful job in adding performance.

Storage: The Sabrent Rocket 512GB M.2 SSD has plenty of fast storage in a small M.2 factor with no SATA cables going to it leaving less for cable management.

Video Card: The XFX Radeon RX 580 8 GB GTS XXX ED is a great card and you should be able to game at 1080p 60+fps easily for Destiny 2.

Case: The In Win G7 Mid Tower Case because it looks nice, easy to work in, is black and has great airflow.

Power Supply: The EVGA GD (2019) 600 W 80+ Gold will allow you in the future to upgrade your hardware and still have power left over. You can even overclock your CPU and GPU if you want and have a lot of headroom still. It comes with a 5 year warranty and is a great PSU.

Case Fans: I added a pack of case fans from Amazon to help airflow inside you case since it doesn't come with any. I chose these because they don't cost $20USD a fan and perform well. If you want to spend more money on fans I recommended these for $14USD they are quiet and perform just as good as others.

Custom Parts: I also added a fan hub for $8USD for case fans so you can power most if not all of them from one fan slot on your motherboard.

Total: $647.58USD ~ €581.06 before tax

Total: $701.01USD ~ €629.00 after tax (using Texas sales tax rate of 8.25%)

All of these parts are available from Amazon because I wasn't sure what was available in Germany. If you can't get something where you are let me know and I'll redo the list from a retailer you can get parts from.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask!

Don't be so sad my friend. Performance hasn't increased that much over the past couple of generations of Intel cpu's since Sandy Bridge. Yes a 4690K is an decent upgrade but overall 2500K is not a bad CPU at all. It's still better than almost every AMD CPU in many gaming scenarios.

My recommendation to you is to upgrade your GPU to GTX 970 or similar for amazing value, and then buy an aftermarket cooler for your cpu, so you can overclock your CPU to hefty speeds. Something like the Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power is incredible good for the size and prize. Link to Amazon. Or the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is also very capable for overclocking, though the Thermalright True Spirit 140 power is still quite a bit better.

Here are some video tutorials for overclocking the i5 2500K if you are new to this. It's not as hard as many people think. You don't have to overclock it to extremes, but maybe just a slight overclock like 4.2 or 4.3 GHz with slight voltage increase should be enough and give a decent boost. This small of an overclock might not even require an aftermarket CPU cooler(you can try), but I would recommend it anyways since it is less noisy than the stock cooler, and you can maybe use it for your next CPU too for overclocking.

This will give you a lot of performance increase combined with a GTX 970 upgrade. Though overclocking might not be necessary at first, unless you notice some performance issues.

Just my opinion, I am no expert, but these seem like the best choices as they are popular, and consideration how much work it would take to design them.
Also check the most popular on Amazon, Newegg and PC part picker.

CPUs from one socket look almost the same right?
So a LGA 1151 and AM3+ CPUs.

For RAM, classic PCB with black chips, maybe another one with a very simple heatspreader in different colors, as it would take quite a lot of work to create realistic heatspreaders for little benefit IMO.

Any HDD, they all look similar.

For SSDs, Samsung are the most popular and very simple to do.

Three most popular CPU coolers prolly are CRYORIG H7, Hyper 212 EVO, and Corsair H100i, maybe with addition of a single fan AIO like Corsair H55.

GPUs are tougher:

• definitely MSI twin frozr, they use them for most cards
  
• ASUS new strix
  
• Gigabyte G1 Gaming as for 1070 and 1080 and Windforce for smaller cards
  
• EVGA hates you, it seems like they have a different design for every card, but the most popular for enthusiasts could be ACX 3.0 used with 1070 and 1080
  
  Motherboards and cases: the hardest parts to pick, almost every one part is completely different from the other.
  Just go by the most popular.
  
  Anything I forgot?

> The mobo supports SLI but at 8x PCIe 3.0, that should be fast enough if I ever want to add another GPU, right?

Yes. If the mainboard is specified for SLI, that will work. From the mainboard layout there should be no problem, though I can't be sure.

> Hopefully it's a bit more future proof with the extra power from hyperthreading.

It will help a bit, but for gaming only I'd save the money and go with the i5.

> I should be able to use and benefit from the faster RAM after changing BIOS settings, right?

Yes, no problem there.

> Couldn't really find any real comparison between different manufacturer GTX 1080s

Do you speak a bit of german? Computerbase tested many of them, see https://www.computerbase.de/2016-07/geforce-gtx-1080-partnerkarten-vergleich-test/. The Inno is okay, the Phoenix is nice, and the Gigabyte G1 is quiet. I'd value that most. If you gofor SLI later, a blower cooler would be nice though.

> As a last point, the CPU cooler isn't the greatest (CM 212X), but on the other hand its not terribly expensive and as far as I can tell it's easily good enough even for some overclocking, or am I mistaken?

Some overclocking will work, yes, but a better cooler like the Macho Rev.B does not cost that much more and is quite a bit better.

Please note also that the NEX psu is not really good for its high price.

This would be my build:

pc-kombo shared list

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K | EUR 235,16 @ Amazon.de
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI | EUR 138,60 @ Amazon.de
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws DDR4 3000 (2x8) (16 GB) | EUR 74,77 @ Cyberport
Storage | WD 3TB Blue (3 TB) | EUR 94,90 @ Caseking
SSD | OCZ Trion 150 (256 GB) | EUR 63,89 @ Amazon.de
Video Card | GeForce GTX 1080 | EUR 739,00 @ Mindfactory
Case | Nanoxia Deep Silence 3 | EUR 69,90 @ Cyberport
Power Supply | COUGAR GX800V3/R (800 W) | EUR 103,57 @ Amazon.de
CPU Cooler | Thermalright Macho Rev.B | EUR 46,99 @ Amazon.de
| Total | €1581.75
| Generated by pc-kombo 08.07.2016 |

Note that the case is purely a suggestion, it is very close to the R5 but cheaper.

Yeah I believe that H7 would be a step to right direction, but honestly I would go with somethin like this
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK

Or this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HPX7J4K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494584874&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=be+quiet+dark+rock+pro+3&dpPl=1&dpID=41f-YJuctCL&ref=plSrch

They are really expensive, that is true, but they pack serious cooling power. You have quaranteed silent operation and possibility of overclocking as much as you want. These two coolers THE best ones around beating all of the $150 aios too. It's just cool to have that I7 running over 5ghz with good temps and silently. But yeah that cryorig is surely going to let you oc till something like 4,6ghz still staying reasonably quiet. Choise is yours.

Your pc just literally has the best components available, I feel like it would deserve good cooler to keep it cozy;)

Ps funny thing about those noctua fans is that they alone cost 20 bucks a piece, and are seriously awesome fans, quiet, efficient and long lasting, I'm running two of the indusrial versions on my build

The best and relatively easiest ways to address poor aesthetics in the CPU are a modular or semi-modular PSU and replacement sleeved and color coordinated cables from said PSU, or if they are too expensive (and they are) sleeved cable extensions look just as good and are way cheaper, but create additional cable management.

​

Regarding a cooling system you should definitely still have one even if you are not OC'ing. If you want to go cheap, get a solid air cooler like the Hyper 212 Evo. If you are more concerned about looks, maybe consider an AIO, like the EVGA CLC240. It's more expensive, but looks nice.

​

Not 100% sure what you mean about the front facing fan, but if you are asking about fan placement, then yes at the front of the case is fine just make sure it isn't going against the airflow of other fans. If you mean fan orientation, like intake/exhaust, then that is also fine, with the same caveat. Generally speaking you want your airflow coming in the front/bottom and exhausting out the top/back.

​

PSU:
EVGA 600BQ Semi-Modular (MB power is the only non-modular) https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Modular-Warranty-110-BQ-0600-K1/dp/B01MTJTO2O/ref=sr_1_1?crid=244UIDUJ0IXE&keywords=600+watt+power+supply&qid=1556624118&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_36%3A2500-6000%2Cp_89%3ACorsair%7CEVGA%7CSeasonic%7Cbe+quiet%21%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6906985011&rnid=386442011&rps=1&s=pc&sprefix=600+watt+p%2Caps%2C136&sr=1-1

One thing to keep in mind about PSU's is they tend to go on sale more frequently and at better discounts (percentage wise) than many other PC components.

​

Cable Extensions:

Antec Sleeved PSU extension cables

https://www.amazon.com/Antec-Supply-Sleeved-Extension-Length/dp/B07C6CLXW8/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=antec+psu+cable+extensions&qid=1556624318&s=electronics&sr=1-3-fkmrnull

​

CPU Cooler:

Hyper 212 Evo (Air cooler-Cheap and functional, not pretty)

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI

CLC 240 (AIO water cooling- Pretty and functional, not cheap)

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Liquid-Cooler-Cooling-400-HY-CL24-V1/dp/B074WH52BW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=clc+240&qid=1556624855&s=electronics&sr=1-1

​

​

Hope this helps!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 1700X 3.4GHz 8-Core Processor | $337.89 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $19.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $93.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $94.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $104.64 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $46.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SSC GAMING Video Card | $279.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | NZXT - S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $64.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic - S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply | $56.89 @ Newegg
Monitor | HP - 22cwa 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Cooler Master - Devastator II Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | $25.49 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1260.72
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $1215.72
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-05 12:05 EDT-0400 |

This is my PC with only a few differences. Works perfectly for photoshop/adobe/FL studios (which I use daily) and games like a champ.

CPU: Works absolutely great for multimedia tasks, allowing me to swiftly do most tasks I throw at it. Games great maxing out my monitor (only 60hz, though.)

CPU Cooler: Hyper 212 EVO is a great cooler which I started with, I have no upgrades to a Noctua.

Motherboard: Perfect piece of kit, allows for high speed RAM.

RAM: 16GB of DDR4 3200hz RAM allows for fast use for rendering games. Especially open world games.

Storage: 250GB of quality SSD storage, samsung are the best make for SSDs imo and I use this drive. Yes it's a bit more expensive, but you're paying for quality. I also have the WD blue which is perfect.

GPU: I bought the 1070 when it was around $300, if you're buying in a month 1070's could be going for around $300. And would highly suggest that card over the 1060 6GB as it is still inflated.

Case: Just the one I use, it's great.

PSU: 550W will be fine for a PC of this kind.

Monitor: 60hz IPS display. I suggest looking for deals on monitors. $200 monitors go on sale all the time, often 50% off.

Keyboard/Mouse: Quality cheap piece of equipment.

Here's a $1000 build:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $19.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $93.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $94.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $46.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SSC GAMING Video Card | $279.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | NZXT - S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $64.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic - S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply | $56.89 @ Newegg
Monitor | HP - 22cwa 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $89.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Cooler Master - Devastator II Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | $25.49 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1016.07
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $971.07
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-05 12:15 EDT-0400 |

CPU: Is now the R1600, 6 cores will still be great at Photoshop, and same with gaming. Just the R1700X is a lot better for multitasking.

Storage: Dropped the SSD.

With a better monitor?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $19.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $93.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $94.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $46.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SSC GAMING Video Card | $279.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | NZXT - S340 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $64.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic - S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply | $56.89 @ Newegg
Monitor | Acer - H257HU SMIDPX 25.0" 2560x1440 60Hz Monitor | $336.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Cooler Master - Devastator II Wired Gaming Keyboard w/Optical Mouse | $25.49 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1263.07
| Mail-in rebates | -$45.00
| Total | $1218.07
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-05 12:17 EDT-0400 |

Monitor: 1440p 60hz will make games look great. With deals, you should be able to find 120hz monitor for this price/cheaper.

REMEMBER TO LOOK FOR DEALS! This is how to get a great PC for your budget.

Got any ideas for budget? Also, what software will you be using and what bitrate, resolution and general quality settings are you planning on encoding at? Is it also a necessity for 32GB of RAM? You would probably be able to save a good chunk of money to put towards other parts if you went with 16 or perhaps 24.

---

I'm not sure on the display outputs of the GTX 480, however running 3 monitors off of that and one off your onboard graphics chip you should be good to go (aslong as the connections aren't VGA, as corpnewt mentioned; it's quite hit-and-miss). For onboard graphics I'd recommend a motherboard with a HD530 chip, they're pretty well supported and off the top of my head require 2 bootflags to get working.

---

In terms of motherboards it's not particularly my forte, so I may be wrong on some of these things. I think it's generally accepted that Gigabyte motherboards are the best for hackintoshing and are all round great boards, so I'd definitely recommend one. As I said you'd probably want a board with a HD530 chip, or another chip with similar support. Assuming you want 32 gig of RAM you're gonna need support for that, and if you go for 16 for now you still might want to go for a board that supports 32 incase you decide to upgrade in the future or if 16 is not enough. I'd also recommend the 115x chipset as imo is going to give you the most choices on CPU with the best compatibility. After some talks with /u/CorpNewt he suggested this Gigabyte board. It's got enough PCI-E slots, supported onboard graphics (HD530), support for 64gb of RAM, ThunderBolt and good hackintosh support which should check all the boxes.

---

CPU? 6700k; 4 cores, 8 threads, 4.0Ghz clock speed, it's overclockability gives you some headroom if you ever need a bump in performance, the most powerful CPU you can get on Skylake currently (yes the enthusiast CPU's are round the corner but they are silly money and this should be plenty of power), great longevity, and most of all have good OSX support.

---

The CPU can be found here. You're gonna want a cooler such as a Hyper 212 Evo or a Corsair H55 AIO (I can vouch for this cooler, have one myself and it's great). If you plan on overclocking or want to just in case, you should probably look at something a bit beefier like a Corsair H100i AIO.

The mobo can be found here.

---

Feel free to fire away with any questions you have.

Suggest you open your case and dust out your fan. Is it a pre-built computer? Like you purchased it at a tech store everything just plug and go?

80 c is okay but if you open your case get some compressed air and dust it out. After you dust it out; check to see if it's just some stock fan [should look like this : https://d284x0ytlho6sy.cloudfront.net/images/400/AB54875.jpg ] It's most likely a stock fan if it's pre-built. It means your computer is heating up, but isn't getting rid of the heat so your fans spin at max speed which is generally pretty loud.

You can't upgrade your CPU, at least I don't think so. I'm looking up i5-4430 and I can't find the release date. I see some people post from 2013, if it's from then you might have a hard time finding CPU.



If you know how to build a PC or would like to learn I can post a budget PC around 500/600 that you can build.

Other suggestions is buying an aftermarket cooler, like this : https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496032529&sr=8-1&keywords=lga1150+cooler

Note that you'll need a thermal paste cleaner set like https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Compound-ArctiClean/dp/B002DILLMS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496032562&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+paste+kit
Some people use alcohol, I like this because it really removes the gunk. Especially if it's been years. You'll need that + Coffee filter cause it has no lent to clean it off. I think Coffee filters are cheapest and easiest IMO.

Edit: I should add you need the thermal kit cause if you take off your fan and etc you'll need to clean the paste off the CPU and the fan. I should ass you can just try cleaning the thermal paste and applying the new one from the kit and maybe it'll drop your temps :

Again if that route is complicated or you prefer to just have a new PC that'll do you some decent time in gaming here's the list of parts I'd recommend : https://pcpartpicker.com/user/PraY8D/saved/RQFD3C

I'd watch a youtube video and build it. This way you'll know 100% what parts. If you like to spend a little more around 550+ you can get a K chipset which has boost (runs faster when needed) also a after market fan = your machine won't be loud if the temps get high.

Ok, so I hadn't really planned on making this a long response, but here we are with a nice little wall.

TL;DR at the bottom if you don't care about the smaller details.

Turbo is a processor-based function. I used to have a non-K processor and that still turbos. The K model processors also have turbo stats. Overclocking refers to pushing the processor's base speed(in your example: 3.2Ghz) past the manufacturer recommended specs. After overclocking, you can still acheive higher speeds with the Turbo functionality, but it doesn't tend to kick in as often since you already have it overclocked.

K processors have unlocked multipliers which makes overclocking much easier. However, you can still overclock a non-K processor, it is just more difficult, usually less stable, and takes a good bit more technical knowledge since it requires manually adjusting voltages and other settings from the advanced menu on your motherboard(if applicable). With K processors, many newer motherboards(especially higher end ones, gaming ones, etc.) have either a hardware or software(within the BIOS) button/switch which will attempt to automatically calculate a safe and stable operating clock speed above the manufacturer recommended spec.

Depending on your processor and how "well" it overclocks, you may see a large boost in performance. For example, a common budget overclocking CPU(Intel-based) is the Pentium G3258 Anniversary edition. In most cases, you will see a pretty substantial boost to your clock speed(each board and CPU combo will work slightly differently due to each manufacturer's programming). I used to use the above mentioned Pentium CPU until I was able to save up for an i5. IIRC, it's base clock is also 3.2GHz, and with an aftermarket cooler I was able to overclock it to 4.0/4.1GHz using my motherboard's auto-overclock function. With manual tuning, I was able to jump it up to 4.3 and still have it be stable. I now use an i5 4690(non-K) and a water cooler. I have not yet overclocked my i5 since I've had great performance out of it and haven't seen the need to apply any tweaks.

TL;DR, You're kinda right in that Turbo increases clock speed(this is a processor function), but overclocking is actually a separate function related to your motherboard and its power settings.

For $2,000, you can score a pretty excellent VR dev rig.

If you're already using UE4, and you've got got your DK1, you're probably relatively familiar with the basic demands— The faster your CPU, the faster everything compiles, and more ability you have to get things done simultaneously outside your IDE. RAM is a similar story, as well letting you play with more polys and textures in whatever modeling program you use. For the GPU, various Oculus people have dropped the hint that you pretty much want a GTX 770 as a baseline for advanced apps [source]. That's consistent with what benchmarks have had to say about what it'll take to drive the (probably) 1440p CV1.

With regards to the OS, there are very few reasons to use Windows 7. You can read some reddit discussions about that here or here, but the moral of the story is that everything works better on 8 except maybe the layout, which you can change.

$2,000 is a good spot— it's pretty much where the bang-for-buck curve becomes a cliff. Here's about how that build looks:

Full-Featured VR Kit

| part | link | | price |
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|cpu|Intel Core i7-4770K Quad-Core Desktop Processor (3.5 GHz, 8 MB Cache, Intel HD graphics, BX80646I74770K)|amazon|$299.99|
|video card|EVGA GeForce GTX780 SuperClocked w/EVGA ACX Cooler 3GB GDDR5 384bit, DVI-I, DVI-D, HDMI,DP, SLI Ready (03G-P4-2784-KR)|amazon|$509.99|
|ram|G.SKILL Value 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C11D-16GNT|newegg|$127.99|
|motherboard|ASRock Z87 PRO3 LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard|newegg|$94.99|
|power supply|CORSAIR RM Series RM750 750W ATX12V v2.31 and EPS 2.92 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply|newegg|$129.99|
|case|Corsair Carbide Series Black 400R Mid Tower Computer Case (CC-9011011-WW)|amazon|$79.99|
|ssd|Crucial M500 240GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) Internal Solid State Drive CT240M500SSD1|newegg|$114.99|
|hard drive|Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive, Blue - OEM|newegg|$59.99|
|disc drive|Lite-On Super AllWrite 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive - Bulk - IHAS124-04 (Black)|amazon|$20.65|
|operating system|Windows 8.1 System Builder OEM DVD 64-Bit|amazon|$92.00|
|fans|Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2)|amazon|$32.00|
|monitor|LG IPS234V-PN Black 23" 14ms (GTG) HDMI Widescreen LED Backlight LCD Monitor IPS 250 cd/m2 5,000,000:1x2|newegg|$299.98|
|||||
| |See current build price with shipping and tax| total | $1862.55|

Learn more and customize this build at kit.computer.


This leaves you with wiggle-room, to make a couple decisions based on your uses and preferences. You could bump one of the monitors up to 27" 1440p, you could bump the very capable GTX 780 up to a 780 Ti, you could move up to 32GB of RAM, increase the size of the SSD, or just pocket the change. It really depends on what apps you're trying to produce, and what your workflow looks like— if it were me, I'd lean towards the 1440p screen, just for workflow reasons.

If you have any questions (or anything to teach me), let me know!

Are you gonna liquid cool? I ask because that case is generally for liquid cooling. The airflow of that case it not that great. Here's another option, a lot better suited for air cooling: HAF X.

For CPU cooler, here's a pretty good one, the Hyper 212 Plus. It's not much more than the one you listed and it's regularly considered one of the best air coolers, especially for the price. If you can, try to pick up a 2nd 120 mm fan and do push/pull with it.

Also if you are doing serious heavy duty video editing, I'm always a proponent of getting as much RAM as you can. May want to think about getting the 16 gb kit.

Besides that it looks pretty good. Some might say it'd be better (and cheaper) to get 2 Samsung F3 1 tb drives and run it in RAID. Also there's people out there who might have some issue with the 590 card (either say it's overkill, or better to get two 580s) but I don't have a particularly strong stance on either position so I'll leave that to them.

Just a sidenote though, if you can afford to add it to your system, I'd highly recommend getting a SSD as a boot drive/program drive. It was the most noticeable change I ever got from a single component upgrade. I'd recommend at least a 128 gb if you're gonna put all your programs + windows on it. You could probably get away with 64 gb but you'd always have to be super frugal about space. My personal recommendation is the Crucial M4. Just make sure you update the firmware to revision 9 before you start installing anything on it (google it, it's super easy to do).

EDIT: Also was looking at your motherboard. From everything I could see, this Gigabyte board seems to be pretty much the same features wise and cheaper to boot.

Let me first say im not an expert in Air coolers for cpus, I have always used All in one(AIO) water coolers. AIO are definitely more expensive, but easier to install, have better cooling ability, but can be louder than Air coolers.

Air coolers tend to have better price/performance and are cheaper but tend to be harder to install.

These two below are two of the most popular due to price/performance so they are worth looking at on the AUS side of things to.

https://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-Tower-Cooler-Intel-CPUs/dp/B00S7YA5FQ
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI

This article also has some good info on both types and good suggestions at different price points
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-cpu-coolers,4181.html

The only other thing would be to try and get a EVGA G series psu or a Seasonic G series(What i have, caught it on sale tho). If you cant find one of them Corsair makes some cool ones too. You want to get a Bronze 80 rated PSU at the very least. They are one of the most important parts of the pc and one going bad can cause damage or a lot of instability once your gpu/cpu starts kicking in.

Im not familar with the cases you choose but its important to look at the manufacturers website of the case to see how much clearance each case provides for air coolers since they can be big as hell.

That all being said I think the UMART build is the best out of the three with the PC CASE GEAR coming in second.

The UMART is only $100 AUS more than the others according to the image but with that build you get better performance with the ability to overclock later down the line if you need more power eventually.
Plus you get slightly faster ram so overall it looks better.

Remember that you can upgrade to a better case, GPU or cpu fan etc down the line if you outgrow your current selection but the CPU/PSU, and Motherboard will be fine for a lot of years so its worth spending a little more on them now.

Also sheesh man those AUS prices are no joke, that 470 would only be around $160-180 in the states

Just a few suggestions here:

• HD 6950 2 GB for roughly the same price, which you can unlock to a HD 6970 relatively easily.
  
  
• You're probably better off just getting 2 of these, as it'll perform roughly as well as the Western Digital Caviar Black for a lower price, and the Seagate you chose is really mediocre. Also, you could even try to get an SSD and a relatively slow 2 TB HDD for storage. I don't know much about SSDs though, so I won't make any uninformed suggestions.
  
  
• That memory is extremely overpriced, and the differences between 1333, 1600, and 1866 (crazy..) are more or less negligible. Here's 4 GB of DDR3 1600 RAM for a good price.
  
  
• 850 watts is overkill unless you plan on Crossfiring two of the HD 6950s. If you're just gonna use one (which will perform admirably at 1920x1080), you're better off with a cheaper power supply >500 watts. This is a good power supply at a decent price after rebate.
  
  
• Here's a cheaper ~~23" monitor ~~better 23" monitor which should be just fine.
  
  
• Here's a cheaper wired mouse with very good ratings.
  
  
• Here's the same HAF 922 case, for cheaper and with free shipping. The only difference is that the case fan LED is red instead of blue.
  
  
• You really only need the six-core Phenom II if you mess around with multi-threaded applications a lot, and you would be better off going with a Core i5 or i7 in that situation anyway. That said, the Phenom II x6 is still a great CPU. If you feel like downgrading just a tad bit, a Phenom II x4 955 is still an amazing CPU, which can be overclocked easily to 3.7 GHz or higher. A recommended heatsink would be the Cooler Master Hyper 212+, which will guarantee low temperatures.
  
  EDIT: There's currently a pretty decent 5% off, with a $10 gift card deal, for the Phenom II x4 1090T.

A lot of mid-sized towers (and specially designed compact ATX towers) support both, so I guess a large portion of it is user preference. Take for example the following compact designed case designed to fit full ATX boards:

Amazon Link

I can't really attest to the quality of this case, but just as an example, as long as you find a tower with supporting ATX board sizes, it'll work (also good to consider the size of your CPU cooler, that's why they can't get too small - in the example of this case, your current fan wouldn't get the clearance it needs, but you could go with an alternative like...

Amazon Link)

Although that might be more than you want to spend, so just check the CPU cooler clearance required in the case you get, and it should be fine!

As for the CPU, if hyperthreading isn't a big deal to you, it's totally fine - that's one of the core differences between this one and say... the i7-6700k. If you want a higher clock speed out of the box too without having to OC, that's one thing to consider. But if those aren't that important to you, I'd say your choice is a sound one (many, many people will argue for the merit of hyperthreading these days though - and I can't say they're incorrect in their reasoning). However, if you're comparing dollar-to-dollar value, invest that extra savings into your GPU.

And finally, onto your GPU, pretty solid choice. Especially if you're not considering options like the 1070 or 1080. I lean more towards GTX cards, but that's entirely my biased choice, and so I won't influence you that way. There's a number of arguments that go both ways, so I'd say for sanity sake (you could literally dig for hours on the comparisons), that you'd be safe going either route (and if DX12 is the big factor for you, AMD seems to be doing better in some games, not as good in others, and around the same in even other games, so there seems to be a LOT of variability in regards to this factor - AMD seems to be excelling better on more recent games, but it's hard to say if that will remain the trend or if it will shift).

Again, hope this was helpful :)

Oh my god please don't do a prebuilt from here and not likes Dell prebuilt like someone built it here. You can learn so much but buying the parts, and researching it can be a bonding experience with your son!
Edit: SORRY IN ADVANCE FOR A WALL OF TEXT!
anyway lets get this build started!
Idk what you want but for a case that looks super sexy the NZXT S340 would be a good start, cheap and nice.
CASE:NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case CA-S340MB-GR Matte Black/Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T4BWUUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wR12xbKDZPNE8
Note: $74 Jet.com has it cheaper. (GET THE BLUE AS I MADE IT A BLUE BUILD)
CPU:Intel Core i7-2600 Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz 8 MB Cache LGA 1155 - BX80623I72600 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EBUXSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nT12xb7BECNJC
Note: $164
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P8H61-M LE/CSM R2.0 LGA 1155 Intel H61 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NA1K0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b112xb1T6M7HK
Note: $94
RAM: PNY Anarchy 8GB Kit (2x4GB) DDR3 2133MHz (PC3-17000) CL10 Desktop Memory (BLUE) - MD8GK2D3213310AB-Z https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012DT0IB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h412xb3VC5JNW
Note: $45
POWER SUPPLY: EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E512xb56068FP
Note: $37
GRAPHICS CARD: ASUS ROG STRIX Radeon RX 460 4GB OC Edition AMD Gaming Graphics Card (STRIX-RX460-O4G-GAMING) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVQI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z712xbFGF2Y2T
Note: $140

TOTAL: $554

Edit 2: As your budget is $600 and I don't know how lenient you are with going over or what, but an Asus RX 470 would be a better graphics card and would increase the total to around $650.

Edit 3:
AFTERMARKET CPU COOLER:Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E-12xbR7ZCHBK
Note: $28

Edit 4: If you want peripherals that's gonna be around $1000 in total for decent crap. I would suggest a 1080p 60hz monitor, a mechanical keyboard ( I use a G. Skillz KM780 RGB and it is fabulous), a nice pair of headphones HyperX cloud 2, and a nice set of speakers Logitech Z506. Also idk what you have but get a wifi adapter as well unless you can hook up to Ethernet which is highly recommended.

Edit 5: If any other questions just PM me glad to help you out more.

Edit 6: shit I forgot drives and OS. I'm too tired to link things anymore so I suggest getting a 128gb Samsung PRO SSD for your OS and main shit then get a Seagate 1TB HDD and you're good to go. Hopefully I covered everything.

Honestly 500-600 wouldn't make a very decent computer for a first rig. You can make one and well I made one just right now but that doesn't take into account peripherals. If you wanted 500-600 WITH peripherals that would have been the hardest budget build of my life. To maintain quality and performance, I'm cringing just thinking of it.

Raw storage:

• 72TB (9 x 8TB RAIDZ2)
  
  
• 36TB (9 x 4TB RAIDZ2)
  
  Total 108TB(18 drives)
  
  Actual storage:
  
  
• 48TiB
  
  
• 24TiB
  
  Total 72TiB
  
  Case:
  
  
• Nanoxia Deep Silence 6 Rev. B
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DSFDSUS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Nanoxia Deep Silence 3 for parts
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Nanoxia-Computer-Controllers-Motherboard-NXDS3B/dp/B00M49SNVI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497552150&sr=8-2&keywords=nanoxia+deep+silence
  
  Used the two bay 3.5" cage, and three bay 2.5" cage from the Deep Silence 3 case.
  
  Fans:
  
  
• 2 140mm top
  
  
• 2 140mm front
  
  
• 2 120mm middle
  
  
• 1 140mm back
  
  
• 2 140mm cpu
  
  Used two 120mm case fans from the Deep Silence 3 case between the two stacks of drives.
  
  Motherboard: Supermicro X10SRA-F
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O7ZK10S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  CPU: Intel Xeon E5-1620 v3 3.5GHz
  
• https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117512&cm_re=intel_1620-_-19-117-512-_-Product
  
  Heatsink: Noctua DH-D15
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L7UZMAK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  RAM:
  
  
• Micron ECC Registered - 8gb x 4
  
  
• Mircon ECC Registered - 4gb x 4
  
  Total 48gb
  
  PSU: Corsair AX1500i
  
  Controllers:
  
  
• Motherboard - 10 ports
  
  
• LSI 9211-8i - 8 ports
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RL8I7M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
• Marvell - 2 ports
  
  Total 20 ports
  
  NIC: Mellanox Connectx-2 10g
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178CNZ9U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  OS Disks: 2 x Intel 330 60GB, mdadm RAID1
  
  Storage Disks:
  
  
• 9 x Western Digital Red 8TB WD80EFZX
  
  • http://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-easystore-8tb-external-usb-3-0-hard-drive-black/5792401.p?skuId=5792401
    
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BYLY4DM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    Seven shucked from Best Buy WD easystore externals and two from Amazon as internals.
    
    
• 9 x 4TB drives, mix of Seagates and HGST NAS
  
  • 2 x ST4000DM000
    
  • 2 x ST4000DX000
    
  • 4 x HGST_HDN724040ALE640
    
  • 1 x HGST_HDN726040ALE614
    
    • http://www.frys.com/product/9112138?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
      
      I originally shucked the Seagates from externals. I have replaced the Seagates as they fail, and I had one fail during this upgrade. Yes, I have had five Seagate failures.
      
      SATA/SAS cables:
      
      
• 10 36" SATA cables
  
  • http://www.frys.com/product/8057794?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
    
    
• 2 24" SATA cables
  
  • http://www.frys.com/product/8057804?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
    
• 2 SAS four port breakout cables
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018YHS8BS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    OS: Fedora 25 with ZFS for Linux
    
    Cost:
    
    
• Around $2800 without storage
  
  
• Around $3200 for storage
  
  
• Around $6000 total
  
  The cost was spread across years. This is more like two builds in one. My old build with the motherboard, memory, heatsink, CPU, and 4tb drives combined with my new 8tb build. With the 4tb drives I have replaced five of nine drives over time, which has driven up the real total cost.
  
  The case is huge, but all the space is nice. You don't feel like you are cramming anything in. I used a Fractal Design R5 for my previous build, and prefer Fractal Design cases to Nanoxia cases. But the biggest Fractal Design case wouldn't quite suit my needs. Even this was a stretch for the Deep Silence 6 case. I wish the Deep Silence 6 had spots to mount 2.5" drives on the back side like the R5. It is a feature I miss.
  
  I have a few issues. The trays and the screw holes on the WD 8tb drives don't match. The WD drives are missing the middle bottom screw holes. My temporary workaround is strong 3M double sticky foam tape with two screws. I may use a drill and drill holes in the sides of the trays. I had to tape down the 2.5" cage, but the drives are so light it is not a big deal.
  
  After building this beast I had the window closed, the door shut, and no room fan for one day. The room was quite warm. I have since opened the window, turned on the fan, and left the door open.
  
  My Kill-a-watt peaked at 450 watts during boot. It idles between 200-220 watts. So I could go back to my AX760 from my previous build with SATA power splitters.
  
  I still have one tray free, but no extra drive or SATA port.
  
  I was originally going to move the four bay 3.5" cage from the Deep Silence 3, but it was just too integrated into the case. I tried adapting it, and it didn't come out well. Even if it had, the bottom tray was going to sit below the lip of the side of the case. So that tray would have been less accessible.
  
  I am currently copying 18tb from the old array to the new array as a burn-in test.
  
  I got the original idea to build with this case from someone else's post. I probably would have just bought another Fractal Design R5, and run two systems otherwise. I have run two systems for storage before, connected them with 10g, and used iSCSI. When I did I used, https://romanrm.net/mhddfs , to merge the filesystems together. I am considering doing the same again.
  
  With the right cages you could probably fit around 26 3.5" drives in this case.
  
  Over time I have gone from 250gb to 500gb to 1tb to 1.5tb to 2tb to 4tb to 8tb drives. I didn't think I would be upgrading to 8tb anytime soon, until the Best Buy easystore deal. In the past I mostly purchased on Black Fridays. In more recent years externals from Costco.
  
  TLDR: I built a new server combining an existing 24TiB ZFS with a new array of 36TiB ZFS for the win!

One additional note on the GPU choice - as PlaysForDays noted, the "standard" RTX 2080 performs only a bit higher (~10%) than the $499 RTX 2070 Super (Gigabyte 2070 Super as an example), but retails for several hundred dollars more. Its successor, the RTX 2080 Super can be found for $699-$730 (eg, this card, or this card), making it a smarter choice than your listed $689 Gigabyte RTX 2080.

Performance differences will vary from game to game, but essentially there's no reason to choose an RTX 2080 at $690 when for ten or twenty dollars more you can pick up an RTX 2080 Super. Conversely, dropping to a 2070 Super can save you two hundred bucks for giving up about ten percent in performance. For a build this powerful, I'd simply step up to the 2080 Super and call it a day. :)

The other observations about the motherboard are also valid. The Gaming X isn't a bad board, but it's not compelling when alternatives such as the Aorus Elite exist for a very minor bump in price.

For a CPU cooler, if you plan on using a traditional air cooler, go with either a Noctua NH-D15 or the Dark Rock Pro 4 from the irritatingly yet aptly named "be quiet!" They're both top tier, very high quality coolers with low noise fans which include mounting hardware for AM4 boards. They'll handle the 3900X's heat with no issues and you'll have some headroom for overclocking if you desire.

Checked the list, nice build. A few comments -

• I strongly encourage you to use an SSD over a mechanical HDD, load times will be dramatically reduced everywhere. I got the SX8200 Pro 512GB and the price is awesome for the performance of the drive at $80. Even with Win10 and a ton of programs and games installed I'm barely using half of it:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/XPG-SX8200-Gen3x4-3000MB-ASX8200PNP-1TT-C/dp/B07K1HMMJC
  
  
• Check out this cheaper CPU cooler, the 212 Black Edition, it gets very good reviews. Keep in mind you don't actually need a cooler the 9400F comes with one, but the after market one will cool better and be quieter:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3/
  
  
• I recommend the NZXT H500i case, it's considerably cheaper then the one you picked and also very nice looking, it's the one I use. You will not need to add any fans to it either your 9400F and 2070 will run very cool and quiet. Either case is great though:
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Computer-digital-control-lighting-CA-H500W-W1/dp/B07CC5HLFB
  
  Good luck with the build!

Yeah that mobo should be no issue at all and give you wifi as well. Good call. You'll have to switch from a m.2 SSD to a 2.5" SSD but that won't be a problem.

edit: if you have 10 extra bucks to spare, you can get the version of the Le Grand Macho with a fan: https://www.amazon.com/Grand-Macho-fan-TY-147B/dp/B01BCLXO7Q - that way if you upgrade to a more powerful processor in the future, you can just the fan onto the CPU cooler. In fact, you can install the fan anyways and just set it to minimum RPM - I have an open air case with this cooler and it's pretty much inaudible until you get past 60-70% of its RPM range.

You can also pick up extra case fans to run at minimum RPM - Noctua and Be Quiet! make excellent silent case fans. You may need a PWM splitter or controller to accommodate more fans, depending on how many PWM fan headers your motherboard has. The goal to ensure silence is to have every fan running at minimum RPM and never needing to ramp up even under load.

I don't have anything "better" as much as... probably more cost effective.

The CoolerMaster Hyper T4 is the "low-cost budget" choice at $30 USD / $40 AUD. Its inferior but cheaper.

At ~130W, the Hyper T4 is +31C over Ambient, while the NH-D15 is +18C over Ambient. Since CPUs don't throttle till like 80C.

So how hot is your area? Like 30C? 35C? Even at 35C ambient, you can safely go +55C before throttling, and CPUs function to 100C.

Note that the 8700k is a 95W CPU. You'll only draw 130W if you overclock. Hyper T4 is a very "budget" cooler too. I'm sorta choosing it as "the other side" of the spectrum.

That's why I'm wondering if you're planning to overclock. 95W is pretty easy to cool, you don't need to buy a $100+ cooler to cool off 95W stock speeds. Only if you overclock to 130W or higher power usage will you need a better cooler than a typical budget-cooler.

-------------------

It really depends on how much money you're willing to spend too. The NH-D15 is one of the best air coolers. I just wanna make sure you're willing to pay for it. You pretty much can get any cooler between $40 AUD to $130 AUD, with noise / cooling performance scaling between those extremes.

Depending on what you mean by 'media' that 2500K is pretty overkill. You can get nearly identical gaming performance from the significantly less expensive i3-2100.

I wouldn't call that Zalman cooler superfluous, but I wouldn't pick it over the favored 212+ unless you have solid evidence showing how quiet it is. You should see what sites like SilentPCreview and Guru3D consider the leaders in quiet cooling at the moment.

You can definitely save a good deal of money with any one of these ASRock micro ATX motherboards. That Asus is enormously more expensive than you need.

The GTX 560TI is a good choice. You should consider this MSI twin frozr 6950 2GB card for only ten bucks more. It is the more powerful card in nearly every case. MSI also makes some of the coolest cards around, which is of primary importance for a microATX build like this one.

You probably don't need all 16 GB of that RAM. You should stick with this set instead.

You also won't need that 650W power supply. With a single mid-range GPU, at most you'll need is 500W. I would recommend finding a well reviewed, modular unit around 500W instead.

Not stock, no. Am using:

• Noctua NH-D14
  https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D14-Heatpipe-Radiator-Bearing/dp/B002VKVZ1A
  
• Phobya HeGrease
  https://www.amazon.com/Phobya-31094-HeGrease-Extreme-1-0g/dp/B008EDXAH0/
  
  My case is a Corsaier Carbide 500R, which is nice and roomy for what I have in there, has great cable management so it's pretty clean looking inside. Also has 6x 120mm fans running in silent mode (thanks random black friday sales!) and a big side-mounted one that's 200mm.
  
  It's probably total overkill, but between that and good dust management, and every couple years do a disassemble + reassemble for maintenance, it's performed really well for the 6 or 7 years I've had it.
  
  Arctic Silver 5 is still pretty good, and my CPU fan is totally overkill. Only reason I have it is that it wouldn't fit in a friend's micro ATX case, and so I swapped out my (sadly, discontinued) EVGA M02 fan - which was fairly similar to a Hyper 212 Evo.
  
   
  
  I was able to get my 3570k "stable" at 4.6 ghz, but the additional voltage required in order to not crash was just stupid and instead of running at around 70C during Prime95, it was running at 96C. Still, 4.52 ghz on a 3570k on air cooling is pretty respectable.
  
  Good luck!

Motherboard: That will work just fine. I believe the quote you listed is telling you to buy an add-on card which connects to your motherboard through a PCI slot and gives you extra USB ports like this. That mothboard has 4 USB 2.0 ports and 2 USB 3.0 ports and your case has two front panel USB ports. This brigns your total USB ports up to 8. If you need more than 8 then you can buy an add-on card or back plate that attaches to the USB connections on the motherboard. The latter looks like this. The black thing obviously goes to the motherboard.

CPU: Depending on how much video editing you do you might be able to drop down to the 2500K. The 2600K will be better for video editing, but if you really need to save money and don't edit enough to justify the price increase then you can get the 2500K.

GPU: The 570 is pretty good and you would want to get an EVGA card because they have a lifetime warranty. You can also get the 6950 which is slightly worse (maybe 10% less FPS) but costs about $80 less.

Hard drive: Switch to the Samsung Spinpoint F3. It's cheaper, faster (the 6 Gb/s on the WD is crap, HDD can't even get up to 3 Gb/s), and more reliable. If you have extra money then get an SSD. One of the best upgrades you can give your computer. They are crazy fast

Everything else looks good. Make sure to get an aftermarket CPU cooler if you overclock. The Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is great.

Temps seem high but safe. Not familiar with game but that seems too high. I think I got to 75C on CPUZ stress test. What power plan are you on? Ryzen balanced or Windows Power saver could help idle. I am using Noctua NH-U12S (on 3700x, mid-tower case with 3 intake in front and 1 outtake in rear, going to add 2 on top), have not heard case or cooler fans once and getting good temps. I highly recommend it and no worries about liquid. Because of where chiplet sits in CPU, sometimes air coolers provide better heatsink coverage for chiplet hotspots. Would recommend putting two intake fans in front, and one outtake on rear and one on top. Make sure on latest BIOS and AMD Chipset drivers. Ryzen Master can be set to show temps/cpu speeds with history graph, also very useful. Hope that helps and good luck!

PCpartpicker seems to err on the side of caution, but I don't trust it 100%. Newegg is probably the best in terms of parts specifications, they list cooler and ram heights and how big of a cooler each case can accept. Amazon will tell you too but sometimes you have to dig through the questions. The best source is probably the specifications at the manufacturers website.
I just built a gaming pc a few months ago, and like you I wanted function over form. 8700k processor with the best performing air cooler I could buy - https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK
If you end up getting that you need low profile ram. I bought two of the better cooling cases from that gamersnexus link to test the cooler fit, the Silverstone RL06 and Rosewill Cullinan. Supposedly the RL06 was like 5mm too narrow to accept the D15 cooler, but it actually does fit (however it touches the window). The Cullinan I bought as a backup because it was slightly deeper and that was the one I ended up using but it didn't like my tall Strix video card, had to fight it.

This looks like a really solid build.

I would however recomend air cooling instead of water cooling, water cooling can be tricky to put together and it's not a whole lot better, plus it's more expensive. I recomend the ''Hyper 212 EVO'', It's the most efficent cooler for the money out there, it's only 35$ and keeps my I7-4790K around 70 degrees while overclocked to 4.7Ghz.

Hyper 212 EVO: http://amzn.com/B005O65JXI

Also, I don't know about you, but if you want to be able to put dvd's and such into your pc, which can be really helpful for installing drivers and such, you shouldn't forget the optical drive, they are only 20$!

Asus Optical Drive: http://amzn.com/B0033Z2BAQ

Other than that this looks like a really strong build, will max out almost everything, if you want more storage I would recommend the 4 Tb Western Digital Green, the green is twice as cheap as the black and sees almost no difference, (in my opinion). 750GB won't last forever, and if you want to be comfortable being able to record and download how much you want, mass storage can be a good thing.

WD Green 4TB: http://amzn.com/B00EHBEUZO

Welcome aboard the pc master race!

Ok my stuff is jacked up right now it's saying I got 9 comments but I can't see any of them. So what do you guys think if I can resell my off whites for a good price I might just build another rig however until then this is what I chose.

Please shit all over it and tell me something better. My motherboard is also RGB controllable or whatever for the front radiator unless putting the radiator in the front is a huge no no even if you rig it so it exhausts out the up and out the front. Okay here are the things I've decided on just by glancing over every category.

Air coolers I saw ones that looked better and even had better specs but were only $20 also it seems like noctua is still pretty strong/on top but I don't know who's on top of the cpu cooling game. I'll be posting more soon or I'll just finish it quick. I'm assuming artic mx4 compound is best now or is it still the silver artic 5?

1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HPX7J4K/ref=psdc_11036281_t5_B00L7UZMAK
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B12DQ38/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?pd_rd_i=B076KNKR73&pd_rd_wg=XY5On&pd_rd_r=VAR26GMWD450BQE9HFE4&pd_rd_w=TiNwH&th=1
   
   Lastly don't laugh but i figured why not install this or are heatsinks on GPUs pointless even if I ran a liquid cooler/block? Yay or nay?
   
   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAAU6SS/ref=psdc_3015421011_t2_B07BQVT22F?th=1
   
   Figured might as well slap this over the ram
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Airflow-Cooling-CMYAF/dp/B00GU9UG9A/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526987839&sr=1-3&keywords=ram+cooler
   
   So that leaves me with the final obvious issue of many, odds are a cpu cooler that big won't fit next to my 4 dimms so is it fine to have a 240mm radiator exhausting out the front of the case. Idk why I said radiator I mean the entire computer because it's just got about an inch glass space between the mesh and two fans.

I'll just preface this by saying I spent a lot of time browsing the Octane Render forums when I was trying to figure out my build. I don't have links to any threads but there are plenty there discussing system requirements for the renderer.

These are just some of the glaring mistakes. I would recommend you spend way more time researching parts as it is clear that you have spent very little time doing so. It took me around a week of extensive researching to put my build together. Expect to spend the same time doing so.

Get a Noctua cooler. Look at the Amazon review breakdown of this one. 92% 5-star reviews our of 409 reviews. I'm not sure if this one will fit for you though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L7UZMAK/

You're wasting money on that memory. Your motherboard only supports up to 3200 MHz memory. Your CPU only supports up to 2133 MHz.

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X99DELUXE/specifications/

http://ark.intel.com/products/82931/Intel-Core-i7-5930K-Processor-15M-Cache-up-to-3_70-GHz

Get this memory instead.

http://gskill.com/en/finder?cat=31&series=0&prop_3=2133MHz&prop_4=0&prop_1=0&prop_14=DDR4&prop_2=64GB+%288GBx8%29

ASUS has a new version of your motherboard anyway. I wouldn't buy the old one.

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X99-DELUXE-II/specifications/

Do you need the Deluxe? Look at the non-Deluxe version below.

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X99-A-II/specifications/

If you're using Octane you could use up to 4 video cards with a different motherboard.

https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/X99E_WS/

Although, if you went that route you would have to do liquid cooling and it would probably only fit in the biggest CaseLabs case. A system like that would run you over $10,000. Such a system would only be necessary if you were working and rendering by yourself on a single system. If that is not the case, 2 cards will suit you just fine.

Western Drives are more reliable. Read the Amazon reviews of this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011LVAVEQ/

The choice of power supply is great.

If I was going to do an air cooled system, I would go with this case. I'm not sure if you need it though.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-HAF-Computer-RC-942-KKN1/dp/B003S68Q0Y

EDIT:

With all that money you're saving on memory you could get a better CPU.

http://pcpartpicker.com/product/NXyxFT/intel-cpu-bx80671i76900k

This CPU supports up to 2400 MHz memory, meaning you could also upgrade your memory.

http://pcpartpicker.com/product/YK8H99/gskill-memory-f42400c15q264grk

I'm not sure about the case or how you're cooling the GPUs. I know from researching on the Octane forums that anything above 2 cards needs to be water cooled otherwise your cards will overheat and you will lose performance. Look into the founders edition because of its blower-style cooler.

EDIT:

I forgot to mention that when I was looking into this for myself I was trying to build a system for animation. If you're only using Octane for stills 2 cards will be great.

• 750 Watt Power Supply. $89.98
  
  
• Generic Corsair Case. $64.99 You can shop around for something better looking for a little more money.
  
  
• DDR4 3200 RAM (2*4GB Sticks) for $147.99 and DDR4 3200 RAM (1*8GB Stick) for $160.32. You can also drop to 3000MHz and save like $5-10 but not worth it in my opinion.
  
  
• GTX 1060 3GB for $304.99 or GTX 1060 6GB for $389.99.
  
  
• i7 8700k for $449.99 or i7 7700k for $422.96. 8700k is 8th gen and 7700k is 7th gen. You can drop to any processor around an i7 7700 (No "k") without seeing issues I'd assume. WoW is a processor heavy game though. Still my i7 8700k only ever reaches maybe 30% useage that I see.
  
  
• Heat Sink + Fan. Cooler Master is good. $34.99
  
  
• i7 8700 will require a 300 Series Motherboard like ASUS ROG for $141.50 or ASUS Prime for $84.99. The 7700s will take a 200 series motherboard like this one for $129.61 or this one for 149.99. Basically just make sure it has all the hook-ups you need (sound and USBs and shit) with the proper chip set and supports DDR4 RAM with minimum 1 PCI Express slot for your GPU.
  
  
• Samsung 860 Evo 500GB SSD for $179.94 or the 250GB for $109.94. Any decent SSD will do. Make sure it has enough room for your OS and the game(s) you play. You can use any regular HD to store other stuff on. Samsung is a good brand for them.
  
  When trying to decide on what power your PC needs a good website to use is http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/ - it'll give you a general idea since I get confused with all the "i7/i5/i3 XXXX gen X" nonsense too.
  
  That'll build you a tower. Then you just need external components. Monitor, keyboard, mouse, headset, chair, desk, etc. Depending on what you have available and stuff it can vary so I'll let you price out that stuff.
  
  $1,358 pre-taxes if you go with i7 8700k, and GTX 1060 3 GB. For the tower. Taxes in, plus all the other components you're still looking at pushing close to $2000. That's CND I think. If you do a little shopping around you might get a decent deal on a few items and look into different price points between AMD and Intel if you choose their Board/Chip/GPU combos.

lets start by downsizing everything on your list meaning it will be hot and loud, ok first we need a smaller power supply our primary contenders are compressed and squashed to be honest they barely have enough juice to run the system, moving on definitely need a smaller mobo, here is one of the best Mini ITX boards, now thats out of the way you can't really have air cooling in that small space best option would be the compact Corsair H60(i would also rig one for the gpu to save space and hassle and get lower temps but thats optional)could go for the H80i if it fits or take off a fans and replace it with one noctua, a few side notes you can probobly fit 1 3.5 HDD in there but i would recomend going SSD especialy in that case. you can keep the ram but the CPU is a bit overkill yeah its fast but you don't need that much in games (as long as it doesn't bottleneck) and its not that good even for rendering it doesn't even have Hyper-Threading you could save a few bucks and go with the locked version of it or the Intel Core i3-4160 if you really want to save some cash go with the Intel Pentium Processor G3258 and overclock it you will lose like 10 frames though and of course use the small form factor version of the video card you want, now this might not be needed but a 16X PCIe riser cable might come in handy if its too cramped. i know you said you want to make it bigger but you want the smallest parts possible because even one thing can stretch the project allot

EDIT:could possibly fit a larger but better PSU

This build looks good. I built myself a similar rig last year, and it performs well. I basically agree with everything /u/MrTesla said, mutatis mutandis.

• If you want to perform GPU computing just make sure this GPU is CUDA-enabled.
  
  
• I'd get a 1 TB solid state; they are only ~$250 if you went with Crucial instead of Samsung.
  
  
• I have that same CPU cooler. It looks awesome in pictures, when it's by itself, but in retrospect I wish I would have went with something much smaller and simpler. The problem is that it's a brick, and will stick out directly normal from your CPU, and takes up a ton of space. Let me take a picture of mine... here ya go. It makes cable management and everything else happening around your mobo more difficult. If you go with something like this Corsair Hydro, you get the same copper plate with liquid cooling, but move the fan element out of center of the tower, to a location where it should be. I'd highly consider this since you are only going with a mid, and not full tower.
  
  
• I like the modular PSU, but I'd almost want to beef that up a little, to like 800W.
  
  
• CPU looks good. For $50 more you get a decent benchmark bump for the 3.6 i7-6850K. Then again, you might have already said that, a few times.
  
  Overall though, pretty solid build. MATLAB is just an excuse to build this right? No shame in that. When it comes time to actually use MATLAB for analyses I would highly recommend converting whatever you can to MEX files. Like MrTesla mentioned, MATLAB is not the fastest tool available, and may not be the right tool if you're concerned about how long it will take to process your data. Optimizing the lang/software/code used to process your data will result in speed-ups orders of magnitude greater than simply running the same code on a more powerful machine. I experienced this first-hand; I was simulating particle diffusion on ruffled membranes in matlab using standard functions. To run one simulation (~20k steps for 1k particles) it would take about 10 minutes. I went out and build a new rig, and it went down to ~6 min. I converted some of my functions to MEX/C and it dropped to about 45 seconds.

This is the wrong take, OP didn't ask for best bang for the buck PC, he asked for the best PC.

Cooler: Air is usually cooler and quieter than AIOs, in your machine you want the noctua nh-d15 though.

Your memory is not the best it can be for Ryzen (you want 3200c14 or 3600c16). Remember you have 4 DIMM slots, you can go 4x8 if you want, but I don't think they are cheaper than the 2x16 kits.

3600c16

or

3200c14

I personally have the latter one, Samsung b-die for good overclocking potential.

Storage: Don't put mechanical in this build for the love of god. Your "boot drive" is fine w/ the 860 evo, consider the m.2 version for slight (and I mean slight) performance gains and less wires:

also consider it's bigger brother the 970 Evo

For your "data drive", get a 2tb mx500, If you buy a mechanical drive for this build you will be banned :).

The video card situation is a weird one right now. nVidia keeps the good bins of their cards and sells the rest to AIBs. If you want the best 2080ti, you want the founders edition

But nVidia has probably the worst customer service, and 3rd party cards offer better cooling. It's a decision that's up to you. I personally went with a Founders Edition card for my build (2080 Super though).

Get an 80+ platinum power supply

This is a hot take, but consider a wireless mouse. The offerings today have no lag and gaming without cable drag is fantastic. Some suggestions:
Logitech G Pro Wireless


Logitech G703

Hah, yeah I hate the looks of Noctua products, but they work really well. This is the one I use on the 3600 and it works really well (I run at 4.2Ghz).

The 5700xt is a good card and will be able to do 1440p well, the only reason I recommend Nvidia for GPU is that the 5700 has a lot of driver issues right now and AMD is notoriously slow to correct them. If you can be patient with it until they've smoothed it all over, it's a solid choice.

As for Sabrent, they're really popular here and for good reason. TLC NAND and really good read/write speeds. The read/write speeds on the crucial drive you listed are pretty slow, if you'd rather stick with a big name there's the Samsung Evo 970 series which are a little pricier than the Sabrent, but a lot faster than the crucial. Here's a link comparing the two, and the sabrent is just slightly slower than the 970.

~$100 Solid state drive (Sandisk extreme, Crucial m4 or Samsung 840 [pro] depending on exactly how much you want to spend). Throw the OS on it and some games/programs to speed up load times.

Then get a ~$250 GPU. You should be able to get a GTX760 for that easily. Perhaps a 7950 instead, the performance between the two at standard 1920x1080 has the 760 winning, but at higher resolutions the 7950 wins out (plus they have more VRAM for stuff like Skyrim).

Maybe it's time to grab an aftermarket cooler and try your hand at overclocking. The 2500K overclocks insanely well, better than the 3570K from Ivy and the 4670K from Haswell. Might be worth it to squeeze a bit more out of the CPU.

Were it me, I'd get the GPU and a really nice aftermarket CPU cooler. Something like this or a Frio.

I've compiled all the parts I recommend in a PCPartPicker list below for your convenience. Now, allow me to go into a bit more detail. I didn't include a cooler because the Ryzen 5 2600 comes with a rather good cooler in the box for stock operation and modest overclocking. If you want something with a bit more power, you can't go wrong with the [Hyper 212 EVO](Cooler Master Hyper RR-212E-20PK-R2 LED CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.8VKBb7PKEQBB). You mentioned you were planning on purchasing a GTX 1070 as well, so I included that in the list as well.

As for Ryzen and emulation, Intel does tend to be slightly better with emulation due to having faster single thread performance, but the advantage is slim. Emulators are beginning to to take advantage of more threads as of late, and that's where Ryzen excels. Take CEMU and RPCS3 as examples. While Intel is a bit faster in Cemu, Ryzen actually outperforms their chips in RPCS3. With every said, Ryzen is just fine for emulation. Price/performance wise, AMD reigns surpeme.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $165.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Asus - PRIME B350-PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard | $84.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Kingston - A400 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $28.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $44.00 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card | $409.99 @ Amazon
Case | Cooler Master - MasterBox Lite 5 ATX Mid Tower Case |-
Power Supply | SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $823.95
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-09-07 18:46 EDT-0400 |

Hello,

Thanks for your response! I appreciate you trying to help me.

1. No, I don't really have crashing issues with other games. I mean to be honest I really only play CSGO but I can't remember the last time I had this issue with a game.
   
   
2. Yeah the 380 can run hot, do you know what's the highest load temp you recommend? I don't like my cards being above 75C under load but maybe I'm being overly cautious.
   
   
3. Yeah, my card is this one. As you can see its 4GB VRAM.
   
   
4. I'll download MSI afterburner now and try to run some tests when I get back home in a few hours. Does it matter that my card is from Sapphire and not MSI?
   
   I can tell you that from my own monitoring using AMD Settings, the task manager, and CPUID HWMonitor that the cpu would use about 70% from the game and about 10-15% from OBS Studio when I stream.
   
   It's an i5 2500k I've had for a while now, to be honest. Temps for the CPU generally don't go above 70-75C while playing and streaming. I don't know if that's considered high, but something the CPU hits full load while playing and streaming even with my aftermarket cpu fan.
   
   Generally, RAM doesn't get too high while playing. They recommend 8gb and I have 12 so I don't see that being the reason.
   
   Thanks once again, let me know if you need more info!!

My first thoughts are:

• Did you make sure to clean off the CPU well with a high % isopropyl alcohol and what did you use to wipe off the old paste? Usually Microfiber towels, toilet paper or q-tips work well enough.
  
• What method did you use to apply the paste? The "pea-method", the spread method, or an X?
  
• Did you make sure the cooler was fastened down tight enough?
  
  If you have done these things, either way, I'd recommend trying to reapply the paste and make sure you are using the right amount. If you get the same results again, then I'd recommend getting an aftermarket cooler. There is a very good chance that the cooler is the problem. Many people use the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO because of the awesome price/performance you can get with it. This would be the best next step to solving your issues. Just make sure your case has enough room for it first.

Thanks for your input, I haven't decided on Intel or AMD, I think i'm either going to go with the i7 8700k or R7 2700x. The SSD was recommended by another Reddit user, this is what they said:

> The Inland SSD is a super affordable, super quality choice. It's not 860 Evo, but it gets the job done incredibly well for its price. And the P300 HDD is great. Barracudas tend to be pretty noisy under load. Toshiba's P300 drives are rebranded Hitachi drives, so you're getting the best on the market.

They also recommended the following coolers:

> Macho Rev. B or the H5 Universal.

Logical increments suggests the following:

Noctua NH-U12S

Noctua NH-U14S

be quiet! BK021 Dark Rock 4 CPU Cooler Fan Extremely High Cooling Performance 135mm (200W TDP)

Do you have any suggestions?

​

​

You could, but your bottleneck is without a doubt your CPU. Fortunately, you can upgrade to another LGA 775 compatible chip for a modest cost. Here is a modified QX9650, which seems like a great upgrade over what you've got. Or you can pick up a Q6600 for a slightly lower cost. Actually, I think the Core 2 Extreme processors may not be compatible with your motherboard, I'll leave that in there until I know otherwise (Core 2 Quad Q6600 would definitely work). It should work, the ASUS P5QL manual states that it does (page 28).

I would highly recommend the QX9650 over the Q6600 at that price (far better performance, don't even consider the Q6600 if you can get the QX9650).

You'll probably also want either a new cooler, or at the very least new thermal paste for your upgraded LGA 775 processor (the old stuff on it will be rock hard and unusable). For example, the CM Hyper 212 EVO ($38 Amazon, also available w/ $10 Mail-in rebate on Newegg but +$6 shipping) is compatible with the LGA 775 chipset, but will also be compatible with all modern motherboards (LGA2011 & AM4 with an extra bracket) for when you do your full upgrade in the future. Or if you think you might get a CPU with a fan already included (such as the non-k variant Intel processors, or the non-x AMD AM4 Ryzen processors), you can simply buy new thermal paste and re-apply it when you install your upgraded LGA 775 processor.

If you want more RAM, you'll have to find out if you're currently using DDR2 or DDR3 RAM, documentation on P43 boards is really weak I'm having a tough time figuring out what your board supports (conflicting information all over the place). Then you can add more. Your board supports up to 1066MHz DDR2.

Also, while you're finding out whether you have ddr2 or 3 try and find out which dual core CPU you have, and your current graphics card. Thanks.

tl;dr: Buy a refurbished/pre-owned QX9650, get new thermal paste or a new cpu fan, find out what the speed and timings are of your current ram and then try and match that when you add more (or just buy a new/pre-owned set of 2x4gb DDR2 1066MHz ram).

I ended up getting the Hyper 212 Plus because I read some reviews that said it was quieter than the Evo. I've never had an Evo, so I have no basis of comparison, but I just installed the Plus last night, and it was definitely quieter all day today than the stock cooler I took out of there.

On a separate but related note - I have a quad monitor setup, with 2 GPUs, 3770k, and WD Black, so my office gets pretty hot. The old fan I was using to cool the room was too loud for me to keep it on when having meetings on Skype. So I ordered a Vornado 660. On the lowest setting, it keeps me nice and cool, and is damn near silent, even from up close. So quiet in fact, that after I bought it, that's when I decided to replace the stock CPU cooler, as that was then the loudest thing in the room. So, I definitely recommend that Vornado - worth every penny.

Wow, I'm literally about to order the same build. I'm getting a H100i cpu cooler, the Maximus VI Hero instead of the Z87 pro mobo, and a Seagate Barracuda 1TB instead of a Caviar Blue 1TB HD. I'm also getting the red/black version to match my mobo. Everything else is the same even the same brand GTX 770. Please let me know how it runs, especially how quiet it is.

You have a lot of fans and an overclockable CPU. I would recommend you get an aftermarket CPU cooler to take advantage of these features. As I said above, I'm gonna try the Corsair H100i, but it is pretty expensive. Some less expensive air coolers that I think would look good in this build are

[Phanteks TC12DX](http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-U-Type-Heat-Sink-Cooler-PH-TC12DX_BK/dp/B00AXUTKEE/ref=sr_1_10? fs=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393992252&sr=1-10&keywords=phanteks+ph-tc14pe) for $60 on [sale for $40 + shipping] (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7616870) right now

Enermax ETS-T40 for $50 (also has leds on the stock fans)

And of course, the [Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo] (http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393992767&sr=1-1&keywords=hyper+212+evo) for $35 which doesn't match as well but is cheap.

Great job on cable management (it's supposedly easy in this case) and I agree that it need a light on the inside. Let me know what light you end up getting because now I want one too.

Just a side note, but you gotta reply to my message or else I'm not notified of it.

For 144hz+ gameplay, you're probably going to want a better graphics card unless you're playing on lower settings, or doing Esports titles. I'd suggest a few things here-

1. The CPU cooler you have is great, but it's largely a waste of money unless you are intent on overclocking this to the absolute maximum. I'd suggest something like this, which will deliver excellent cooling capacity https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77
   
   
2. You will likely want even faster RAM, as this is important for eking out the most frames at 144hz+ 3600, preferably low CAS memory is desired.
   
   
3. I suggest compiling a list of your games and checking out some benchmarks. Places like Hardware Unboxed have done benchmarks comparing things like the 5700XT to the 2060S in huge 30+ game comparisons. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oej2ev3g-sM
   
   
4. If those benchmarks listed above demonstrate that you will NOT be able to hit the framerates you desire, you're going to need to shave more off the build in order to step up to a 2080S or something, unless you opt for a used 1080ti or something. A cheaper SSD wouldn't hurt gaming performance in the slightest per example, or a cheaper motherboard, etc. If you have a student ID or something you can also get Windows 10 at a discount.

This will help a bit

Also, make sure to use Intel Burn Test, Aida64, Prime95. I use all of these while I was OC'ing, you should stress test with each program for around 1-2 hours and do around a hundred runs of IBT. Do not run these programs at the same time! Make sure you have a good cooler! I'd recommend:

Air cooler - CM Hyper 212 Evo I have this one, amazing bang for your buck.

Noctua NH-D15

AIO Water coolers - NZXT Kraken X61

Corsair H100i

I'd recommend getting a temperature app like Real temp, but it has been known to be a bit wrong (check your motherboard for temps and the idle temperature will be different) As a safety precaution I always made sure my CPU's temp stayed under 80°C (give myself a good 10°C) Anyway, try and run your chip on a 1.25V at 46X multiplier and if it boots to windows you've got a average chip, if it keeps BSODing drop the multiplier/raise the voltage or do both, then just fine tune it.

It took me a good 7 hours to do my first OC (i5 4670K 4.5GHz @ 1.232V) it's not been optimised yet, anyway good luck and have fun overclocking!

This small guide is only for CPUs, for GPUs all you have to do is download a program, I'll link that at the bottom

--

First off, you gotta make sure your board is capable of overclocking, chances are you have a Z-series board because you have a k series processor.

K Series processor = overclockable

Z Series motherboard = overclockable

Those are just the basics, I assume you know them.

So to overclock, you're going to need to go into your BIOS, again depends on your motherboard, but while booting up you should press either, F1, F2, F10, Delete or Escape. Once you've figured out the key to get into your BIOS, you can start tweaking.

A really important thing if you're going to overclock is an aftermarket cooler, such as a Hyper 212 (Great value) or a Corsair H115i (Top of line watercooler, pricey) or an equivelent air cooler, like the Noctua NH-D15 (My personal favorite, it's what I hit my 4.9 GHz OC on)

If you already have an after market cooler, that's perfect, and you can continue. But if you don't, I highly recommend picking up a Hyper 212, it's only $25 and will get you a huge amount of performance out of your PC, until then I'd highly reccomend not OCing.

Here are the next steps, I would type them all myself, but that article summarized perfectly, and it's very recent too.

--

As for overclocking your GPU, just download your GPU's Brand-specific program, like MSI Afterburner, EVGA Precision X, etc. They really all work on any GPU, but it's nice to use the one "made" for your specific GPU.

(Note, these only work on Nvidia cards, you'll have to download completely different stuff for AMD)

I hope this helps, don't be afraid of pushing your system, just don't push it too far. Either way, the worst that would happen if you OC "too" hard is you'll BSOD on startup and you'll just have to set your multiplier/voltage lower. It won't affect the longevity of your PC in any way, Enjoy!

Looks good to me, only thing missing is an SSD, they can be had dirt cheap now and shouldn't be overlooked even in a budget build. Here is a great option with free shipping, another larger option with free shipping.

The 7700K and Kaby Lake friends should be released around the end of this year, you may find yourself having to upgrade sooner than later before the 6700K goes out of stock. I would reconsider putting the money for the 6500 towards the 6700K now unless the budget is super tight, in which case I would go i3 6100 since you are planning on upgrading anyway. 6700K cheapest with free shipping I could find. I believe you also get another $5 off when signing up a new account. Keep in mind the 6700K doesn't come with a cooler, so a 212 EVO would be a solid option.

You could save some money on the case as well, here are some sale options. Make sure what you get is full atx compatible.

Professional PC builder/technician here. I monitor the market's prices all day, every day.

If you want a temporary and affordable upgrade, your motherboard is running on the AM2 socket. Check your motherboard's model number (Usually in between the PCI slots) and look up CPU compatibility. Assuming you're not running some crappy E-Machine, your socket shouldn't be integrated, and you can pick up something like an AMD Athlon X4 and have a significant boost in power.

If you're looking to fully upgrade, pick up an LGA1150 motherboard. If you want quality and don't want to completely break your bank, go with MSI. They're an awesome mix between affordability and features. For a processor, most i3s on that socket are pretty damn powerful, and cheap. 120 bucks will buy you enough power to do -anything- that 450 you have there will need. If you want long-term, pick up an i5, about 220 bucks will take you miles away from the CPU you have now. The i7 is endgame, it's worth it if you can afford it, but not necessary by any means.

Do not waste your time picking up any motherboard older than an LGA1150. They're the same price as the older LGA1155s, unless you're buying used. Don't buy used mobos, more often than not you'll regret it.

The last thing to consider is your power supply. You're making a serious upgrade with a new processor and mobo, and you need to take power into consideration. Since you seen new to this, Let's make it simple. Google "Power Supply Wattage Calculator" and type in your specs. Go 150 watts above that, spend a lot of money on it and get something nice. Your PSU is your computer's heatbeat, you don't want it failing and killing everything else you have. Buy a nice one the first time, and it will last years and years. Try and save 25 bucks by going off-brand and lower watt, suffer possible thousands of dollars in damage depending on what you have in there.

Edit: I forgot to mention, You're going to be stepping up from DDR2 to DDR3 ram. Don't go too crazy on ram, it's all pretty similar on the base levels. Corsair makes some nice sticks, Patriot does fine and affordable but you really need to look up compatibility with it, and Crucial makes some nice stuff that's affordable. If I were to build a low level affordable PC today, my baseline would sit here:

CPU: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i3-4130-FCLGA-Processor-BX80646I34130/dp/B00EUUKVXM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397850929&sr=8-1&keywords=i3

Mobo: http://www.amazon.com/MSI-Motherboard-Motherboards-B85-G41-MATE/dp/B00D12OASW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851005&sr=1-2&keywords=lga1150

RAM: http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Technology-1333MHz-KHX1333C9D3B1K2-8G/dp/B004DDI0IE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851050&sr=1-1&keywords=DDR3+RAM

PSU: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Builder-Bronze-Certified-Supply/dp/B008RJZQSW/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851110&sr=1-2&keywords=power+supply

For the sake of maintaining a cheap build, you can use the heatsink that comes with the processor. If you're feeling moderately fancy, just grab something cheap like this, they work great.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851211&sr=1-1&keywords=LGA+1150+heatsink

Re-use the optical drive from your old PC, re-use the fans. If you need cables, use monoprice.com

For 20$ you should get a cooler master hyper 212+, it has a bigger fan (120mm vs. 92) and will easily allow you to reach the max "on air" overclock of that chip. The stock heatsink will easily allow 3.4 GHZ, possibly more. throw in a coolermaster 4 pack of 120mm case fans, put one on the other side of the hyper 212+, and three in the case. all your cooling needs taken care of for 30$ shipped

for 30$ you might as well get 2x4GB ram. these ones are great

the case and psu are good quality, though you can get the antec bp550w, which is modular, for 10$ more.

170$ for that video card seems pretty standard, with 140$ being even better if you get the rebate to come through.

Reading reviews of that mobo, it seems that the compatible ram list is pretty small, and ram issues seem to happen a lot to that board. in the 100$ range there are several am3+ mobo's which would fit your needs. I suggest going with one that has 2 pci-e x16 slots and runs them at (x16, x8) in crossfire or sli. the one you currently have is x16,x4 which will give less performance if you sli/crossfire down the road. if you don't think you'll crossfire, don't worry about that.

• 
  CPU: check
  
• 
  CPU cooler: I have and love this one
  
• 
  Motherboard: check
  
• 
  Hard drive: I have and love the 64gb version of that hdd!
  
• 
  Video Card: I have and love this one. I suggest you get this one since you want more power. EVGA is always the best way to go for graphics cards.
  
• 
  Case: I have and love the red version of that case. It reaallly keeps everything cool. I have never seen my graphics card go above 75c, even after hours of gaming.
  
  PS: Keep on keeping on destiny! As a gold level player, the most valuable lesson I got from your stream was "forget about everything, focus on mechanics". Glhf!

Good work, your cable management is excellent!

I have a couple of recommendations for you build:

I'd recommend buying a new CPU cooler when you can. The Intel ones are good, but there are so many better ones on the market.

Try this one - I used it in my build for like 3 years. Keeps temps down and fans quiet.

Another thing you may consider is an SSD. You'd be surprised by how cheap they are right now. Here is a 480Gb SSD for only $118 USD.

And as /u/nolo_me said, definitely flip that PSU if it's not too much trouble. Better performance, better sound, better temps.

Three suggestions:

1. If you plan on doing high overclocking get a Asrock Extreme 4 motherboard. If not, you can keep the one you picked. The Asrock MoBo has more power phases and will give you a more stable overclock.
   
2. If you're looking to hit 5GHz get the new Corsair H115i Extreme CPU cooler for ~9K. Its new, and extremely good for the price. If you only want to do a mild overclock, you can go with something like this new Cooler Master 620P (H=165mm) which is nearly as good as a Cryorig H5 Universal (H=160mm) and priced at a very decent 3.7K.
   
3. If you go for an air cooler, then instead of Corsair 200R (CPU clearance 165mm), you could get this Cooler Master Masterbox 5 (CPU clearance 167mm) with that beautiful front grille to suck in loads of air. Just discovered it today and am going to recommend it to everyone who has a case budget of ~6k. If you go for the AIO cooler, then I'd personally recommend getting a case with top 280mm radiator placement possible. From what I search last time, these are you options that do allow top mounted 280mm rads:
   
   Thermaltake Suppressor F31
   
   Thermaltake View 31
   
   Phanteks Enthoo Pro M (out of stock so this is the white version)
   
   Thermaltake Core X31
   
   They all sit in the medium range cost wise, but they'll give you an important option of freeing up the front of your case so you can put your case fans and draw outside air in.
   
   Other than this, the Sickleflow fans you picked are fine, you can go with them. If you're tight on budget, then let me know what you have to work with so I'll try to suggest the best option within that. Also let us know how much you're looking to overclock that CPU. It is very regularly known to hit 5GHz if enough cooling is given.
   
   Edit:
   
   If all this is sounding very costly to you, and you were not much interested in overclocking anyway, I'd suggest you to go for the i7 8700 processor (Rs. 22K), a Gigabyte Aorus 3 Gaming B360 motherboard (Rs. 10K), and a Cooler Master Hyper 212 CPU cooler (Rs. 2.8K) and call it a day. At stock speeds the 8700 is better at gaming than the 8600K.

Your core system is still solid. The only thing I'd add is an SSD:

Crucial

Western Digital

Samsung

An SSD will improve every aspect of your PC.

Further down the road, you could add an i7-7700K for a 67% increase in multi threaded performance. Additionally, single core performance goes from somewhat pokey to blazing fast.

I don't see any cooling solution here, so that could be another avenue of improvement. TBF though, the stock cooler is adequate, but it's loud and cheap looking. You could improve the looks of your pc and get better cooling to boot. I'm really fond of the NH-L9i

If you're interested in more perfection, you could upgrade your PSU to an 80+ Gold unit. They run cooler and quieter than bronze units, and this has a ripple effect throughout your system because there's much less heat to contend with. My SF450 rarely even starts the fan...

If you are concerned about noise and want to spend that much on a CPU cooler I would suggest either the Noctua NH-D15 or the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 which is my personal favorite and in my current rig though it seems to be hard even to get here in the states right now so I'm guessing availability in Canada will be even tougher. If you will not be doing lots of video editing or heavy processing things then I think the 6600k will be fine. If you just want a quiet PC and some light overclocking and want to bring the price down then I would also suggest you look at something like the Cryorig H5 cooler which is about a sub $50 cooler in the U.S. but PCPartPicker seems to not be able to find any Canadian retailers for it. It would be my midrange suggestion for a cooler. The H7 has been very popular lately as well and that goes for about $35 USD or for less than that there is always the fan favorite Cooler Master 212 EVO. I see nothing wrong with the motherboard. I own a similar Gigabyte motherboard myself and it is great. All you really miss out on with that one is no SLI support. As for monitors in the future I would personally go for 144Hz over 1440P but that is personal preference. IPS would also be preferable to TN for photoshop but a 144Hz IPS will be very pricy (like $500+ and that's looking at prices here in the U.S.) and since it sounds like gaming is your primary use and Photoshop is your secondary use I would go with a 144Hz TN over a 60Hz IPS.

I would get [this water cooler instead of yours] (http://smile.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1407431857&sr=1-1&keywords=liquid+cooler) it's cheaper and I believe it'll be better overall. If you want to save more money, AMD right now has a better price/performance ratio than Nvidia does at the moment, so I'd recommend a [R9 290] (http://smile.amazon.com/XFX-Double-947MHz-Graphics-R9290AEDFD/dp/B00HHIPM5Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1407431962&sr=1-2&keywords=XFX+R9+290) or even a [R9 290x] (http://smile.amazon.com/XFX-Double-1000MHz-Graphics-R9290XEDFD/dp/B00HHIPN5A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1407431986&sr=1-1&keywords=XFX+R9+290x). Unless you have a strong Nvidia preference I would go with AMD, better bang for your buck. I have the XFX R9 290 and it is an amazing card for the price. For your PSU go with a better brand like [this Corsair one] (http://smile.amazon.com/Corsair-Modular-Bronze-ATX12V-EPS12V/dp/B00ALK3KEM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1407432062&sr=1-1&keywords=PSU) it's cheaper and has more power to offer. Otherwise it looks good.

The cooler you chose doesn't appear to be 1155 compatible; I'd recommend the other Cooler Master cooler.

$200 is a bit much for a system at this budget level. This is a much more reasonably priced SLI MB.

You can get a much faster Spinpoint F3 for the same price.

For that kind of money, you can get a much better case, like a Lian Li Lancool, Antec Dark Fleet DF-10 -- or use that money saved on the motherboard to bump up to a HAF 922, NZXT Whisper, a CM690 II Advanced, Thermaltake Armor, Dark Fleet FD-30, or a higher-grade Lian Li.

Corsair's CX series power supplies have a mixed reputation. For that price range, I'd recommend something like an XFX Core Edition. But we'd still have money left over after switching to that MSI board and getting a better case. So you can just get a nicer Corsair if you like, or take advantage of a July 4th sale and get this Antec HCG for $55 after a rebate and promo code EMCKCKJ43.

I also agree about bumping that video card up to a 560 Ti.

You can save $5 by grabbing your mobo and OS together. Alternatively, buy it from Superbiiz along with your HDD and use the coupon code CHEERS to get $20 off the order.

Save yourself some more and grab the Hyper 212+ or Corsair A70. If you're buying your CPU from Newegg, grab the i5/A70 combo.

You can save yourself some money by grabbing a nice 8GB RAM kit and 6870 combo.

If you're dropping that much on a case, you might as well grab the nicer Antec P280.

Your PSU is overpriced. You can save money and get a better PSU with this FSP Aurum.

Lastly, if you really want to save some more, you can cut out the CD drive and install your OS with a flash drive.

I'm having a similar issue: max freq for the best core of my 3600x is only 4.325Mhz and all other cores are at 4.250Mhz max which is lower than the 4.400Mhz advertised. I tried to activate PBO but it didn't change anything.
Also worth noticing, the Vcore is around 1.437 which seems pretty high. Far more concerning, even with a great case (Silverstone RL06 pro, recommended by Gamers Nexus) and a Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4 (premium cooler) CPU temperature can reach 55°C (minimum 35°C and ambient temp only 21°C) with just chrome and razer opened and nothing else. When stressing the CPU it stays constant at 70°C.
I hope there will be BIOS updates and AMD chipset updates because right now my conclusion is that this CPU runs hot and can't be overclocked because it has already been factory OC to extreme levels by AMD. I already regret buying a 3600x for sure, I should have bought a 3600 instead.
I wonder if these issues are due to the shit VRMs of my motherboard (msi x570).

That's the thing. My case is a mid-tower and only allows for 161mm of clearance. And so far, I've found a lot of great CPU coolers, some of which look good too (like the ones you just linked), but they don't fit in my NZXT S430 Elite :/ I've found it incredibly hard to find the right CPU cooler. I want my build to look nice, since the S340 Elite has a side window of tempered glass. This one seems like a good product, but again, it's made by Noctua and (in my opinion, at least) looks like complete trash. The colour they use for their fans is just so mediocre-looking... and just ugly in general: https://www.amazon.ca/noctua-NH-U12S-Noctua-CPU-Cooler/dp/B00C9EYVGY/ref=zg_bs_11036281_9?tag=amazon0064-20

I chose the Black and Red version of the S340 Elite, so I'm going for that same colour combination for my components, and having a big light brown metal thing inside would just look really crappy. Also, how many millimetres would you recommend for a fan if the clearance is 161mm ? Does the 161mm take into account the minimum amount of space you would obviously want to have between the top of your cooler, and the case window ? I would certainly not want the cooler to come in contact with the tempered glass! To rest easy (and if it's possible), I'd like to have a reasonable amount of free space between the cooler and the tempered glass.

Eh, it's more like they gave you a cheap cooler. It's probably ok, but as you can see you're hitting the max temps in some situations (100C).

Depends on what you want to spend really. Noctua is considered the best for air coolers.

This is like the most popular noctua model I think:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK

And then there are all in one (AIO) water coolers for $100 (but noctua is on par with them and beats many of them). Here is the one I have for my 9900k:

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Liquid-Cooler-Cooling-400-HY-CL28-V1/dp/B01N16CAKN/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=evga+clc+280&qid=1574222298&sr=8-1

There are definitely cheaper options that should be solid especially if you're not going to be pushing an overclock and all that. I'm not an expert on coolers but if you search 'cpu cooler 9700k' on /r/buildapc you can probably find a lot of good recommendations.

you've got a good start, there are a couple of easy upgrades you could make to optimize your build.

you can upgrade your hard drive to a samsung f3 1TB for $5, and you could upgrade your graphics card to a GTX 560 for $20. both of those upgrades are worth it, and neither costs alot.

if you're planning on overclocking your 2500K, i would definitely add a CPU cooler like the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus. even if you're not overclocking, it's a good upgrade to keep your system's temperature down.

Don't forget to get a optical drive, especially if you plan on installing your OS from a disc. this is a cheap read/write drive, however if you want to play blu-rays; you'll need something like this. but you won't be able to burn discs with that drive.

if you're looking to save some money, you won't need 8GB of RAM unless you plan on dealing with large/complex files. 4GB is plenty for gaming. if you're going to be doing heavy video/photo/vector/3D editing, then 8GB is worth it. However; RAM is cheap right now; 8GB is no longer unreasonable for average users.

If you want to connect to a wireless connection, you'll need an adapter

don't forget your peripherals! unless you already own them, you'll need a keyboard, mouse and monitor.

you'll also need an OS; newegg carries all versions of windows 7. they have a good deal on 64-bit home premium OEM. I don't recommend getting a 32-bit operating system, 64-bit systems can emulate a 32-bit OS to run any 32-bit applications you may need. it is possible to install apple software, but it is a legal gray area. consult /r/hackintosh for more information.

have fun building, let me know how it goes!

Good choice on the cpu. It is fantastic for gaming but you are paying for the K at the end.

You probably know already, but if you do not, intel's K series have an unlocked core multiplier meaning you can easily over clock them.

But in order to do so safely, you will need an aftermarket cooler. I suggest the CM-212 Plus. If you don't plan on the overclock, the locked core i5-2500 saves you a little bit.

I have that ram, and its great but if i did it again I would go with something like Crucial Ballistix which have better timings.

And finally, I would highly suggest the crucial m4 of Plextor m3 instead of the corsair.

EDIT: Here is my go-to $600USD list which might equate to around the price you are looking for.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-2120 3.3GHz Dual-Core Processor | $116.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock Z77 Pro3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $102.55 @ Newegg
Memory | Patriot Signature 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $41.99 @ Amazon
Hard Drive | Crucial M4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $118.99 @ eCost
Video Card | XFX Radeon HD 6870 2GB Video Card | $179.99 @ Newegg
Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | Antec 450W ATX12V Power Supply | $34.98 @ Amazon
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | $645.48

First off, thank you a ton. I asked a friend of mine to look at the build (sorry, but I like to check things :P, I'm paranoid), and he said it looks great. I was curious though if you had the time to verify a few things for me. I couldn't find a few of the things you had suggested so I checked on some other things... Could you verify that they are just as usable for me please?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GQMHBI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A34FFV8YYDM571

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064GOQ86/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DHW4HXY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088PUEPK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055QYKQO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1XBPHGHAXLHDG

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QBUL1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033Z2BAQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A30YNTVQ04HG16

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003HE260I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

And sorry for the late reply. I've been trying to ensure that I have the money together so that I can actually pay for it without running into issues haha.

That's definitely a closed-loop system. These are supposed to last 4-5 years, but they have been known to break before that. There's a propylene glycol/water antifreeze fluid (just like a car) inside them, and a little pump (powered by the blue/green/yellow/black cable) pushes warm water from the CPU to the radiator, where is is cooled down and returned to the processor. When they fail they go one of two ways, either they get a crack in them and the water leaks, or the pump quits working.
It's possible that for some reason your motherboard has decided to not run the CPU fan (which is actually the pump) at 100% even though it's overheating (things like quiet mode can do this) and it's possible that when it's running at say 85% that it's not enough juice to start the pump... Check your BIOS for any quiet/silent mode settings and see if you can disable them. If the CPU fan is showing an RPM rating, this is actually the rating of the pump.

If you have gigabyte's tuning software installed, make sure you max out the CPU fan speed. Pumps are not fans, and it's possible that the pump just isn't getting enough power.

If the pump has gone bad, you can replace it with something similar (expect about the same life span and noise level). Personally, I'd switch to air cooling, as there's less that can go wrong. /r/buildapc could probably make suggestions... The only thing you need to be sure of with your next solution is that it works with AM3 processors. Your motherboard is compatible with standard 3-pin fans and 4-pin PWM fans, so you can pretty much use anything.

Personally, I have this a Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo. It's big. Very big. My case side almost doesn't fit on, but it's super quiet and doesn't depend on a pump. When idle, my CPU fan doesn't even need to run. It relies on heatpipes, which are VERY different from water cooling systems.

If you wanted to, you could switch back to a stock heatsink as well. The one that comes with your processor looks like this, but you may have a problem, it clips to a piece of plastic that appears to be missing from your motherboard (see here). You may have problems fitting OEM parts. I believe the Coolermaster fan I listed above will work even though that bracket is missing, but I'm not 100%

*edit: it looks like there's another black cable going into the heatsink in your top picture... Where does that go?

Cheap option, get this (might be a tight squeeze, requires removing the side panel fan): https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI

Best option, get this (also requires removing that side panel fan, but might be a tiny bit easier to fit in as it's 2mm shorter): https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U12S-Premium-Cooler-NF-F12/dp/B00C9EYVGY

unless you don't want to remove the side-panel fan at all, then get this, still great cooling: https://www.amazon.com/noctua-Premium-Cooler_Retail-Cooling-NH-C14S

It would also be helpful to know your motherboard model to check the compatibility list. But I'm fairly certain these coolers should fit regardless.

They include decent thermal paste, but the FX8350 is one of the hotter chips and it might be worthwhile to squeeze a few extra degrees out with this paste: https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

Christ on a bike, buy a cheaper CPU cooler. Something like a Scythe Mugen 5 is almost half the price and probably performs the same.

I'd consider swapping the 1070ti for a (not reference) Vega 56. They're pretty much identical in performance and price, so the main benefit is not being locked into pricey Gsync monitors and Nvidia drivers.

Also, make sure the 450W PSU is enough for the system. It seems low, but hardware has gotten really power efficient!

Edit:

Another area to save a lot on is the motherboard. I'm not sure what you're planning on doing, but if it's gaming all you need is a b-450 motherboard. Consider an MATX form factor if you aren't going to use all the extra slots afforded by pricier ATX sized boards. This MSI MATX board for example.

You could save even more by buying an older b-350 or x370 board and making sure the bios are updated to support your 2000 series ryzen processor.

EDITED:

Save $110 by getting a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo instead of the Liquid Cooler. I saw a few youtube benchmarks (comparing the 212 Evo to the h100i) that the 212 Evo only lags behind the liquid cooler by 1*C. If you don't want to use the stock CM fan on the 212 Evo, just buy one Corsair SP120 for $13 on Amazon, and you'll still save $97. Liquid cooling is great until it leaks all over your $3000 setup Google-> h100i leaks (and other models).


....
You also wouldn't need the Thermal Compound if you buy the 212 Evo siince Cooler Master ships you some (Saves $6)

....
Also save $420 and get the EVGA GTX 1080 Ti instead of the Titan Xp. EVGA is the best brand for NVidia cards.

....
You would save a total of ~$536 and have extremely similar performance (basically unnoticeable).

LinusTechTips did a video on positive vs negative air pressure and found the difference in temperature settings was negligible at most. Positive air flow, however, should reduce the dust that enters your pc, assuming you have dust filters over your intakes.

Liquid cooling should not be remotely necessary. Yes, it will improve performance over air cooling, but for most users air cooling is plenty good. /u/smgswattted, are you using the stock cooler? if so, get an inexpensive aftermarket (hyper 212 evo probably still best value) instead. Make sure you also have at least one case fan.
As far as airflow, this video shows that the key factor is having an adequately sized heat sink.
Personally, I'd wager your problem stems from bad/old thermal compound (and possibly using a stock heat sink). [This](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2p6Hk4IfqI} video explains what thermal compound is, and this video talks about how to apply it most effectively.
That said, /u/desuemery's list is very comprehensive/covers all the bases, but personally I'd suggest just getting that hyper 212 cooler and some new paste before getting liquid cooling or anything fancy unless you just want to be cool. That and get dust filters.

Looks solid to me, not familiar with Solid Works though so I can't comment on that. You probably won't see more than a few dollars savings dropping to a lower wattage PSU and the 750w does give you the option of adding a second card for SLI in the future without having to upgrade it as well. Well worth the extra $5-10 in my opinion.

For keyboards, I have a
Microsoft Sidewinder X4 and for me at $40 with free shipping it would be tough to beat. It's not mechanical, but mine has lasted 3 years and still works beautifully (and I'm not that much of a fan of mech keyboards)

Mouse, I have a Roccat Kone that I love and at $40 is a decent price as well. Especially for the features that you get.

If you can squeeze it into your budget, a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO would help keep noise down and is only $30 on Amazon

Noctua has a good reputation for having some of the best performing fans though they are a bit pricey maybe because of the demand for them if spending $20 or more per case fan is too much going for cheaper fan's wouldn't be the worse idea as replacing a fan is easier these fan's are pretty cheap and it comes with 3 of them Noctua also has some of the best CPU Coolers

Here's a couple of CPU coolers if they cost too much there's a couple others I can think of

Noctua NH-D15 one of the best coolers by noctua the FSP case may have trouble mounting this.

Noctua NH-U14S a more budget cooler but still capable might be a bit louder then the D15 the FSP case may have trouble mounting this

Dark Rock Pro 4 one of the most recommended CPU coolers I've seen at the moment probably because of it's price for a dual heat sink tower cooler the FSP case may have trouble mounting this

​

Corsair H115i a very high end Liquid cooler it's expensive but it'll definitely get the job done might have better overclocking performance as AIO cooler's don't suffer from stark changes in temperatures with an air cooler you may see temperature spikes for example your CPU is sitting at 40 C and it jumps up to 50 C for a second and then quickly climbs back down this is pretty rare for an AIO Liquid cooler

with all the clearance issue's with the FSP case you could look into this case it would be wide enough to fit all cooler's I mentioned here while also not being too expensive

I don't think I left any plastic cover on the back of the cooler, but I'll double check that tomorrow. I've been playing around with fan settings on the CPU fan, but I still can't get this thing under 70C+ when I'm running these games. I'm thinking maybe I should grab a better CPU cooler? Perhaps this?

Also, thanks so much for helping me out! It's such a relief have this problem nailed down.

Here is what I built last month.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor | $369.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H100i PRO 75.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $109.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock - Z370M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $126.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $142.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $149.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC2 Video Card |-
Case | Phanteks - Enthoo EVOLV ITX TG (Black) Mini ITX Desktop Case | $86.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic - FOCUS Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $78.20 @ B&H
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $94.89 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1209.81
| Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
| Total | $1159.81
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-17 09:12 EDT-0400 |


I originally had the Hyper 212 EVO just as you do on your list but found it to not be sufficient enough for the 8700K, especially if you overclock it (otherwise just get the 8700). You can get an NH-D15 or something similar from CRYORIG or be quiet! but they'll be bulky and make getting in to replace RAM or do other things more difficult, as you will most likely have to take off the cooler to get to your components. I found the H100i Pro from Corsair to be easy to install and it makes the inside look much more appealing than having a huge heatsink in the middle of everything. This was my first time using water cooling and it being an AIO, made everything hassle free and much easier to install than the Hyper 212 EVO, whose brackets make it a pain sometimes to install. I also like that using the iCUE software, you can have the H100i PRO change color according to its temperature, so it makes monitoring temps during games easy, as you can just look at the color of the AIO and you know if it is staying cool or hot. Lastly, and most importantly, the temps are much lower using it than the Hyper 212 EVO so if you have the extra money, you might want to go that route as it has many advantages.

For cooling, if you're going with an air cooler, you can get the Noctua NH-D15 for about 90$, which is pretty much the best air cooler on the market. But with the Zen 2 chips really not running that hot, you can go a step down and get a decent cooler like CoolerMaster's Hyper 212 RGB at 40$ish, or if you still want closed-loop liquid cooling, you can probably get away with something like the Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML120L RGB AIO at around 60$.

Links:

Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=noctua+nh-d15+se-am4&qid=1563487740&s=gateway&sr=8-4

CM Hyper 212 RGB: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hHDJ7P/cooler-master-hyper-212-rgb-black-edition-573-cfm-cpu-cooler-rr-212s-20pc-r1

CM MasterLiquid ML120L: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3P2rxr/cooler-master-masterliquid-ml120l-rgb-667-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-mlw-d12m-a20pc-r1

​

For the RAM, looking around it seems like a lot of the good kits are currently sold out, which makes sense with everyone building their systems with the new Zen 2 CPUs.The one good kit I've found is this one: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/yCVBD3/gskill-tridentz-series-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3600-memory-f4-3600c15d-16gtz

It's slightly more expensive at 172$, but 3600Mhz at CAS Latency 15 means it's definitely using Samsung B-Die, which is known to overclock very well with Ryzen, meaning you could easily tighten the timings on it considerably.You could also go with lower-clocked memory that is still Samsung B-Die (like https://pcpartpicker.com/product/gT38TW/gskill-tridentz-rgb-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3200-memory-f4-3200c14d-16gtzr) and overclock it to 3600, but that requires much more fiddling with the BIOS and memory training, may not work for all memory sticks, and honestly the price difference isn't worth it in my opinion.

>I guess my question is, how beefy should I make this pc? Do I need a heavy graphics card or a stronger single core processor? Do I need Linux or can I achieve this in Windows?

This will depend on what you want, and how far you want to go. My emulation and gaming rig is:

• Intel Core i5 4690k
  
• Gigabyte GTX 970 Mini OC
  
• 8GB DDR3 1600 RAM
  
• couple SSDs
  
• Windows 8.1
  
  It's solid for the purpose, and I've got it in a mini-ITX case(Thermaltake Core V1) and replaced my stock cooler with an Arctic Freezer 7 Pro and threw in two Noctua 80mm fans on PWM. Sounds like overkill, and it probably is, but I wanted a powerful, but cool and quiet build I could treat like a TV console. Plus, keeping the case temps low also reduces the overall heat in my den where I play. Small rooms can heat up quickly.
  
  It boots up faster than my TV turns on, plays everything I throw at it, and the CPU never gets higher than 62c (and it takes Prime95 to do that, it rarely goes above 59c when gaming, ~30-33c when idle). It also emulates PS2 games at 6x-8x interal resolution with FXAA and shaders, which was important to me because I'm gaming on a 4k TV.
  
  Technically speaking you could get away with much lower specs. But I would recommend at minimum the i5 4690k CPU, and a decent GPU. If you're gaming at 1080p even a low end video card will do for PS2 and Gamecube emulation, not sure about Wii. But the better your card the more you can upscale the games internally on the renderer.

Stock intel cooler is NOTORIOUSLY awful. I mean, it's laughed it for how bad it is. Honestly, you would be best off just buying a Hyper 212 Evo. It is THE value budget cooler, and it performs great. You have a 4690k, so it's unlocked for overclocking... why not get a cooler that can allow it to do that competently?

The cooler will allow it to stay at the overclock when folding, and have pretty decent temps to boot. Additionally, you may eliminate some throttling in gaming that you may never know you had.

Regardless of any of this, CPUs generally like to be kept at the lowest temp possible, and if you are planning on helping the Folding@Home cause (which you should!), you are gonna want a beefier cooler to prevent any possible lifespan shortening, no matter how rare that may be with modern CPUs today. It will be quieter too, which I always find is a major plus.

Good luck!

The below may be some of the reasons as to why it is heating so much.

The heat given off from the CPU and GPU can be accumulating inside the case more than it can clear up and causing the GPU to heat up more than usual. (Also, GPU generates more heat than CPU)

If you had a bigger case, may help or if you get a liquidcooling for the CPU or the GPU or even both if you can get it fit.

GPU Bracket for Cooler: GPU BRACKET

CPU and GPU Liquid Cooling you can use: This should work for your CPU - Might be a tight fit for your case but you can figure it out

This should work with the GPU Bracket Link i put up on top

The GPU Liquid Cooling may fit if you put the fan and heatsink to the front of the tower where the fan is.


Using this, you can do more research if using any of the above would work and fit your case. If you get a Full Tower, it will definitely work if you find the right one.


Also, if you're room is hot, that would increase heat generated from PC.

I am starting a PC build and my friend linked me two amazon deals that sound interesting

RAM

and

Cpu Cooling

My question is, would these both fit properly together on a motherboard (cooling is pretty big), and if yes what type/example of motherboard would be a good choice?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Air cooled stuff then but keep in mind it would be good to blow it out every once in a while with an air can to clear that dust out, as that's a good thing to do even if you own a console (or other electronics, I blow my monitor vents every so often too for example) keeps things cool and whatnot. Noctua this is by a quick search really good but expensive otherwise the Evo 212 is good too and way cheaper.

Following the "modesty is best policy" principles I would recommend a few things here:

• Go with the really good main monitor, looks like you got the 27 inch 1440p 144hz Acer. (This is freesync btw. I recommend the Dell S2716DGR for the G-Sync - AMD vs Nvidia) and pick up a 1080p side monitor.
  
  
• Ditch the liquid cooling. It's an unnecessary hassle for anyone other than PC enthusiasts in the OC communities. A Cooler Master or the Noctua (if you have enough room in your case.) Both will provide ample cooling and your CPU will last just as long as with a liquid cooling kit.
  
  
• In combo with the above, my favorite case so far (after 4 PC builds for myself and family) is the Corsair Carbide 540 High Airflow ATX Cube. Lots of room for cables in the back and gives your components a nice display with LOTS of airflow.
  
  
• I would, however, recommend going to an M.2 SSD, which is significantly faster than a standard SSD. Not much of a price jump there.
  
  I see others have spoken about overclocking your CPU and such already. My opinion is to skip overclocking. For the standard gamer wanting a quality experience that is getting a top of the line CPU, there's zero need to OC. I went with the i7-7700 non 'k' version and have been plenty happy. It saved some money too.
  
  Keep in mind your peripherals. Usually those are overlooked when upgrading your PC, but maybe it's time for a new mouse/keyboard, new controller, headphones, etc.
  
  Also if you're dad is giving you a budget, is he giving you the money to spend, or buying the stuff for you? If you don't get the remaining money from $3k, maybe you should include those things now instead of later.

Oh great, I can get away with a 620W PSU? That card looks like it will fit what I'm doing perfectly.


For the air cooler, will a $20 fan cause any noise?

Thanks for your suggestions!

edit: Would this fan do well?

I just finished my first PC last week and it’s very similar to yours. Make sure your case can fit the NH-D15 because I had to switch cases last minute. Also make sure the second fan on it will clear your RAM. For 120mm fans, I think 120mm is the go to. For 140mm, 140mm.

Edit: Actually that’s the same height ram as mine so you’ll for sure have to raise the second fan a tiny bit which was no problem for me, but make sure your case can fit those extra few mm on the DH15.

Here’s my build to compare. It’s been incredible so far! I posted a small review about it if you want to compare more.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | Purchased For $285.00
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-D15 CHROMAX.BLACK 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler | Purchased For $100.00
Motherboard | Asus PRIME Z390-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | Purchased For $178.00
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | Purchased For $76.99
Storage | XPG GAMMIX S10 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | Purchased For $88.99
Storage | Addlink S70 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | Purchased For $110.00
Video Card | NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Video Card | Purchased For $411.82
Case | Fractal Design Meshify S2 ATX Mid Tower Case | Purchased For $152.00
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $105.00
Case Fan | Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan | Purchased For $14.95
Case Fan | Noctua NF-P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan | Purchased For $14.95
Monitor | LG 27UK650-W 27.0" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor | $0.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1537.70
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-12 00:23 EST-0500 |

After mounting it your thoughts will be along the lines of "That's it?". I was fairly respectful when it came to mounting the cpu cooler, but noctua made it super simple. Also the performance is really great. I've read tons of reviews and I was also amazed about the crazy good reviews on amazon.

You won't regret it.

I didn't shop around for deals, but get something like this for PSU (I just pulled this randomly from Amazon, may be cheaper elsewhere):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-RM550x-Modular-Power-Supply/dp/B015PWMRI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505751416&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair%2Brm550&th=1

Your build doesn't use that much power & that PSU will go silent for low usage loads. I'd also probably get a quiet-oriented case, though some people love their windows. For cooler I'd probably save some money by going for a good air cooler I can re-use over and over. Like this classic:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/noctua-NH-D15-Noctua/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1505751584&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=noctua+d-15

>Hi All,

>Hopefully I'm in the right spot, if not, please point me in the right direction. I'm looking to replace my DS1812+ NAS with my old gaming rig (originally built in 2009). I think it's overkill, but want to make sure I don't need anything extra or am missing something that will stop this.

>This is my current setup (Besides the GPU which is an AMD Radeon HD 5850, but couldn't find that exact model):

>PCPartPicker Part List

This is all fine, but if you want a CPU upgrade you can get a 6C/12T X5670 for around $20 on ebay. Your 930 has about 5100 passmark while the X5670 has about 7850 passmark. No need to add more RAM.

>I will need to buy some 5.25" to 3.5" converters, but the MB has 10 SATA ports, so no issues there, plenty of memory. My plan is to install Xpenology (Unsure if bare metal or ESXi yet) and overall make the system as quiet as possible. I'm pretty sure I have the stock CPU Cooler still installed, so that would be the first thing to go for something better/cooler.

This drive bay converter is cheap and works great. If you're looking to make it as quiet as possible, pick up a 5 pack of Arctic PWM fans and a replacement CPU cooler.

>Any thoughts/comments/tips going forward? Do I need to keep the GPU in there, or can I just remove it from the setup completely (quieter, cooler)?

You can ditch the full size video card for something smaller such as an 8400GS, which should save you a ton of power. You won't need anything but a means of display out.


>Thanks for your help!

>Edits: DS1812+ had its MB fried and I am using the PC as a temporary solution while I sort out my next move. PC is currently running Win10 for work/uni. End goal is to have something that will be able to run Plex stream (some transcoding) at 1080p for 2 devices simultaneously and possibly use it for cloud storage in the future.

Sadly, this is just another notch in the tree of dead Synology units. I personally wouldn't recommend Xpenology, I'd look into unraid first as it's the most versatile, easy to use, and easy to expand storage focused OS.

I as well just bought this case this week. same sale . And for $40 off how can you say no. It has all features you'd ever want and more.

Plenty of room and looks great in your house. 3 WHITE LED's make everything look awesome. Keeps the temps nice. Even though it isn't very neccessary since i dropped about $70 on a Noctua NH - D14 It keeps my temps nice and low.

Great Buy +1

I have a heat issue. Build specs:

• MSI 970 GAMING ATX AMD Motherboard
  
• Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 2133 MHz
  
• EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0
  
• AMD FD8350FRHKBOX FX-8350 Processor
  
• Corsair CS Series 750 Watt ATX CS750M
  
• Cooler Master Hyper T2
  
  Idle temperatures were 44° C with the stock cooler so I replaced it with the T2. The case purchased didn't allow a T4 to fit in it - it was about half an inch too high.
  
  With the T2 idle temperatures dropped to 26° C while the cores are running @ 1400 Mhz.
  
  No overclocking has been left in place; it was accidentally enabled for a short period. However, when my son starts playing games he finds himself at 76° C and the thermal protection kicks in, locking the box up.
  
  I made sure to remove the plastic on the bottom of the T2, where contact is made between the cooler pipes and the CPU. I made sure to evenly spread the thermal paste over the chip. I've ensured that the cooler is tightly clamped to the CPU.
  
  Now this board has an "OC Genie" and he did activate it, however, I uninstalled the software overclocker (MSI Command Center) and turned off the OC Genie in the BIOS. I reset the power supply levels to default, as well as anything else I could find in the BIOS. (I don't do overclocking at this point in my life. If I want a 5% boost in speed, I pay for it.)
  
  There are two fans on the case, one on the front and one on the back. The computer is currently in a corner area with little to no ventilation, so that's the next thing we're changing. However, I thought it might be useful to ask for advice from all of you.
  
  Any advice on what I can do to help cool this thing? I know AMDs tend to run much hotter than Intels, but this seems ridiculous. In general I see acceptable ranges of 20° C to 60° C. Would you guys agree that's an acceptable range?
  
  If necessary we can buy a new case and put the T4, or whatever recommended cooler is there, on the PC.
  
  Thanks.
  

That cooler is fine but if you want rgb here is this one DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK, CPU Air Cooler, SYNC RGB Fan and RGB Black Top Cover, Cable or Motherboard Control Supported, 4 Heatpipes, 120mm RGB Fan, Universal Socket Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.JvODbWRVSN5K

Also buy thermal paste that comes in a tube syringe thing because the paste that comes with it is in a ketchup like package

Hmm.

How much is your memory?

You can get 2 of these blocks:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-BLT4G3D1608DT1TX0CEU-Ballistix-Tactical-Memory/dp/B006YG96G8/ref=sr_1_57?ie=UTF8&qid=1370468286&sr=8-57&keywords=8gb+ram

with free shipping to Denmark for 350dkk (you have to buy 2 to get free shipping). At 1600MHz / CL8 (8-8-8-24) they're faster than your average memory.

You could also save a little by getting this case/motherboard combo:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fractal-Design-Core-Series-Micro/dp/B004ZH18G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370468241&sr=8-1&keywords=core+1000

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Asus-M5A78L-M-USB3-Motherboard-Socket/dp/B0054U7HIO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370468214&sr=8-2&keywords=am3%2B

___

The Core 1000 cannot fit a Hyper 212 cooler... But the motherboard supports up to 140W CPUs so you can OC up to 3,9GHz safely.

This cooler:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Cooling-Freezer-Rev-2-Cooler/dp/B002G392ZI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370468610&sr=8-1&keywords=freezer+7

Can fit in the Core 1000 micro-ATX case and can easily support a 3,9 or 4GHz overclock, while reducing the noise compared to the stock cooler.

Just my suggestion.

There's a few things, first of all Intel K series cpu's don't come with a cooler in the box, so you will need one. A good (but pricey) cpu cooler is the Noctua NH-D15. If you would like something more affordable the Cryorig H7 will work, although the temps will be higher than the former.

Yes, all desktop ram will fit into all desktop motherboards (sodimm or laptop ram will not).

The hard drive you selected doesen't have great reviews, for $8 more you can get a [WD Blue](https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK

/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537074431&sr=1-1&keywords=western+digital+-+caviar+blue+1tb+3.5%22+7200rpm+internal+hard+drive) or a Seagate Barracudda, both more reputable.

The cases you linked are good for their price, but you will most likely need 1-2 more case fans as they only come with 1. If you would like some cheap fans these will do, but they wont be as good as something like the Noctua NF-F12

Dont worry about asking questions! It's what we are here for :) I'm sure I missed something, so if you have any other questions make sure to ask!

Edit 1: Do you already have windows? If not make sure to but it, as you wont have an Operation System without it (Unless you want to run linux).

The Toshiba P300s are much higher quality HDDs with better reviews. I'd aim for those instead. I usually wait for them to go on sale. But hey, Western Digital is always a safe choice.

The Noctua NH-D15 is one of the best coolers on the market, I'd personally get it, but I understand that many favor aesthetics over pure performance. There's also the V8 GTS, the Le Grande Macho (funny name, strong cooler), the MasterAir Maker 8, the Scythe FUMA packs a bang for the buck (you could switch out the fans for LED fans), or maybe you'd like to try an AIO cooler?

If you want to see if that $70 Cooler Master CPU Cooler is worth pairing with the i7 8700K, how about filtering the reviews and seeing what you get?

No problem. If you upgrade to a 1050 or 1060, you’ll probably be good for about 2 more years.


If you didn’t buy a fan, then yes, you have the stock fan. You could spend $30 ($20 after $10 rebate) on a Cooler Master like this from Amazon. Or (and I highly recommend) an AIO (All In One) cooler along the lines of NZXT’s Kraken. They’re cheaper ones out there. But, be wary of what you buy. What I do know for fact is NZXT stands by their product and if their product fails to keep your cpu cool, they will replace your cpu. A friend of mine works at Micro Center and he’s told me about some of his customers having good customer service with NZXT. Corsair is another good company for AIO’s.

Also, the fan and/or the AIO will be usable on your next pc. You just might need to buy a $5 bracket.

Imo, don’t worry about the CPU. It’s still a good cpu. Invest in a proper fan.. save the money for now and get the cooler master and a 1060. You’ll be able to recycle that fan (or AIO if you go that route) into your next build.


Edit: only get the AIO if you plan on trying to get the max over clock you can and still plan on building a new pc in a couple years. Otherwise, it would be a waste.

So neither the motherboard's PDF guide nor the BIOS environment itself gave me viewing options for any fans' °C vs. RPM curves. Manual settings only offer me to set min and max temperatures, and RPM values respectively. Though 75°C was indeed quoted in the PDF as max "CPU temperature" for standard fan operation mode which has been active so far. There's a turbo option there, so I suppose I could turn that on if I wanted to monitor any curve behavior differences, but ultimately I want a PC that doesn't occasionally freak out but also isn't too loud all the time.

PDF itself doesn't recommend updating BIOS "unless problems", so since I don't expect a newer BIOS version would show me any curves, I'll leave it be.

I found a praised 120W CPU fan from BeQuiet for €20, probably gonna pick that up, but the W seems huge (and there's even a 250W option for €80). Gonna have to upgrade PSU to at least 650W, no choice at this point.

__

Thinking about everything combined, I suppose what happens is indeed the CPU temperature crosses a threshold, then all fans available go into turbo until it sinks to tollerable. I also have a feeling the fans aren't as loud as they used to be when running a heavy-load game on ultra (before takeoff), so maybe the stock CPU fan really is giving up (though lifespan for fans in general seems to be quoted at around 150k hours as a rule of thumb?) and the hardware itself is what is affecting curve calculations.

My best recommendation is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo, according to the manufacturer of your case and the manufacturer of the cooler it will fit just fine inside your case.
It has better cooling capabilities than the Noctua and it's also cheaper. Hope this helps you out and good luck!
Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=2A2GA6J7P609D&keywords=hyper+212+evo&qid=1554571326&s=gateway&sprefix=hyper+&sr=8-1
Newegg:
https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16835103099

I suggest upgrading your CPU cooler to something possibly like the Cooler Master Hyper Evo, use some ArctiClean to clean up the CPU before the install after you remove the old cooler. I suggest using coffee filters to clean it up because they are lint free and work very well. You can find tutorials online on how to install a new cooler if you have any issues with it. You can either use the thermal paste the cooler comes with or get some Arctic Silver 5, I think Radioshack repackages it and sells it.

I also suggest setting it up so the fan is pushing air through the cooler towards the back of the case and if you can afford it, get a second fan for the other side and do a push/pull config and that will help temps a lot.

Or if you have enough room and want a good solution to lower CPU temps I suggest getting something like the Cooler Master Seidon 120XL. I have one in my build and helps the CPU temps since my case is so small


Also get some cable ties, that shit is a mess

What are you going to be using it for? Unless you are going to be using it as a workstation, I recommend stepping down to a i5 CPU. It's better for gaming and great for all around use.

Also any reason you went with that cooler? It's overpriced and the Hyper 212 will perform well, even with overclocking.

Now you can afford a nice motherboard like this one =]

Lastly, minor cost savings but this PSU is cheaper and more highly rated. Looks like it got restocked finally but I'd order it soon because these go out of stock a lot.

Otherwise looks great =]

hello FoghornLegporn, in my opinion you should not get an nvr for the fact that they are expensive and you can not upgrade them down the line, what i recommend is building a pc base nvr and use the blue iris softwere, my recommendation and my current set up is:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018QDIO2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FN9QT34/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8E8Y5C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TR8YL4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

if you have an old computer you can save some parts and moeny by reusing the power supply, hdd and maybe the case. all that will be around 250-300, the you will have 200 to buy 4 poe 1080p cameras 50 each, and good things is that you can add more later on, best of the luck,
you do need few more parts so let me know if you interested and i will put them together for you. you can take a look at mine at http://mymun2.25u.com:81 demo/demo for username and passowrd.

I got pretty lucky with no backlight bleed and minimal IPS glow. TBH right now everything I read before I bought it the Acer predator series and the Asus series g-sync monitors are pretty equivocal in terms of performance and quality so I would just base your decision between the two brands off of the stand/design you like better.

Yeah with a 60" desk you should be fine (even more-so if you mount the monitor with the VESA mount and get rid of the huge stand).

Other than that the rest of your build looks good. The PSU could be downgraded to save some money but I'm a pretty firm believer in investing in a good quality PSU that will last you several builds which yours is - on the wattage side I also wouldn't want to go lower than 650 with a 1080TI because then you'd have little headroom if you want to overclock etc.

I would get a different CPU cooler though. Something like:

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B002VKVZ1A?psc=1

Slightly more expensive but much better performance (best for an aircooler). And since your case doesn't have a glass side panel the ugly noctua colors won't show =P

Are you aiming for a specific budget? Under $500?

You should really consider getting an SSD. You can get 500 GB SDDs under $150 now. 3x as much as the 1TB HDD you have listed, but its worth it.

This Corsair liquid CPU cooler is only $10 more than that bulky heat sink.

That CPU has some bang for the buck, but will be better suited for programs that are optimized for multi-core CPUs. Anything that relies on single core performance would benefit from a better CPU.

For $40 for 8GB of RAM, I'd double it, but that's just my opinion.

> Anyone have any better suggestions or is this as good it gets for OC and the best for an i770k?

The difference between motherboards is very close to zero. Get a cheaper one.

> As for the ram I really don't know. There's 4133, 4000, 3866, 3733, 3600 mz rams. What's the best for the i770k?

None of those: much slower. DDR4-3000 at the absolute most.

> Since I plan to overclock the processor to 5ghz. Would this cooler be the best or does anyone recommend anything else. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019955RNQ?tag=georiot-pcg-20&ascsubtag=pcg-1884136724-20

You need a lot of cooling power. I'd look at 360mm or 280mm coolers, personally.

Congrats on your first build! Of course it depends what you are wanting to do. If you are strictly gaming you'll have a better system if you go for intel at this price point.

Personally I would go for an nvme ssd at that price point (especially if I can get it at $150):

https://www.amazon.ca/XPG-GAMMIX-NAND-Gen3x4-AGAMMIXS11P-1TT-C/dp/B07KZNTZYB/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=nvme+ssd&qid=1575146243&sr=8-4

I'd prefer the nh-d15 for cooling, though you might have to switch to lower profile ram like the corsair lpx to accommodate the second fan:

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NH-D15-Premium-Cooler-NF-A15/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=nhd15&qid=1575146493&sr=8-1

The x570 motherboard is overkill in my opinion unless you are interested in pcie x4 down the road. This board is $150 right now: https://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-Prime-X470-Pro-Ryzen-Motherboard/dp/B07C57Q1XH/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=amd+motherboard+b470&qid=1575135581&sr=8-5

I might also consider replacing the case fans with noctua fans although this would push your budget up.

Wish I had gone with something more in line with what you have here with my last build rather than the 9900k / 2070 super I'm running.

Omg your friend is an ass! I’m sorry but I’m amazed that thing is running! Please refrain from having the computer on until you get a proper cooler for BOTH your processor and graphics card. You are likely damaging the computer every time you run it.

for the processor

I don’t know what to do about the graphics card honestly but you need to cool that as well. You might be better off getting water cooling and installing it. But you also need to cool the GPU as well.

That picture of the acrylic that you don’t what it is, that is a water cooling block for the GPU!

Same with the processor, that’s a water cooling block sitting on it!

Your friend literally took out the water cooling but didn’t replace the fans!

There are a few things that need to be considered when you are experiencing performance issues. The first thing I would do is make sure it isnt just CS:GO. Play another game and see if you experience any performance issues.

If you do not, I would recommend verifying integrity of game files, then restarting your PC and seeing if that does anything.

If you do experience performance issues outside of CS as well, there is a multitude of problems you could be experiencing. Since the 7700k and the 1080 both run hot, you need to make sure you are cooling them properly. If you are running the stock Intel cooler, I wouldn't be surprised if you were thermal throttling your CPU.

Here are 2 great cooling solutions in the case you need to replace the stock Intel cooler:

• AIO (Water Cooling)
  
  
• Heat Sink (Air Cooling)
  
  Just be sure to get a cooler that your motherboard supports (in your case, one that supports Z270)
  
  Other things I can suggest:
  
  
• Reinstalling the game
  
• Cleaning out your case
  
• De-fragmenting hard drive (Not SSD)
  
• Checking for damaged/dead hardware
  
  If you have any other questions, I'd be happy to assist you.
  

I have this Asus: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CXIY468

and a corresponding i3 CPU.

The noise comes from the GPU fan and the CPU fan. You can make the CPU totally silent with this water block: http://smile.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA or choose a traditional CPU fan rated for decent noise levels.

The GPU fan is relatively quiet, it does spin up when you're pushing it, but at idle it's pretty much inaudible.

The CoolerMaster110 has a large 120mm fan on the intake which I don't hear often. And of course, the last fan you have to worry about is the power supply; if you're using a modern PSU from a reputable manufacturer shouldn't be a problem, most reviews take noise into account so finding a quiet one is relatively easy.

You could also spend more on things like a fanless power supply: http://1www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151099 but I've not needed to go that far.

It's much quieter than an XBox 360, but I don't have a frame of reference for comparisons to an XBone or PS3/4.

It's a very nice cooler. You might look into the NH-U12S SE-AM4 for a cheaper option from Noctua. It's a very similar design. Comes with only 1 fan, but includes the mounting hardware and anti-vibration pads for a 2nd fan in the box. I own one of those as well that's in another system, and it's a virtually silent cooler as well.

Also, the Mugen Scythe is an awesome choice as well. https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77

My setup is a 4690k with gtx 970 and 16gb of ram.

Previously this was fine for the types of games I was playing (mostly War Thunder) but now I have bought CoD and Jedi Fallen Order I have noticed my CPU running consistently at 100% and giving me fps drops in both games.

I plan to upgrade my cpu (and therefore probably motherboard and RAM eventually) when I can afford to but for now I was planning on running an OC on my cpu to get a little more out of it.

My question is what CPU cooler would you recommend that would work with my current 4690k but also be good enough for my new cpu when I eventually upgrade.

I would like to spend less than £50 ($65). I dont care too much about noise or RGB but I would like it to not be obnoxiously loud or ugly.

Would a beginner like me notice the difference between something like this vs this?

My case is a zalman z11

TL;DR: Want to OC my 4690k but need a better cooler. Needs to also work for my eventual upgraded CPU

your motherboard would allow sli, but i dont know if your psu could handle it.

your case isnt the problem with your temps, its your cooler.

if youre going to spend that much on a cooler, buy this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018

its basically the best on the market.

but you could get by on a lot less if you wanted to.

something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Sleeve-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1303803446&sr=8-1

would be a lot better than stock but for less money than the noctua.

theres obviously a ton of options in between there as well.

I will as well suggest to get a cheap and reliable chromebook to get the job done in collegue and use the rest of the money, plus the money you can get from selling the xbox one and xbox 1 games, for a decent gaming desktop. Don't go any bigger than a mid tower case though and i can recommend the zalman z9 or the z1 for such a build. I completed a build for my brother earlier this summer and we managed to fit inside a full size atx mobo, a zotac extreme 1070 ( litteraly the biggest card i have ever seen from close, massive like a brick ) and a BE QUIET cooler. The case costed 30 euros during a sale and it also came with all fan slots filled with fans and it has decent airflow as well.

A build with a used skylake or haswell i5, a zxxx mobo and 8 or 16 gigs of ram will hold you for quite a few years. A 4gb rx 470 is a great card for it's price and will last you for quite some time as well, or alteratively pick a used gtx 970 if you can find a bargain for it. Use the tv for a monitor for now, keep the xbox controller and you are set and done.

Thank you! I found cable management to be the harder part of building but after a couple tries I think I got everything where I want it! Also the name of the cooler is DeepCool Gmaxx GT, it looks better from the side when you get to see the fan. Amazon Link here for anyone curious!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074P3JCXX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd say it all depends on your budget and how much extra work you're willing to do. Air coolers require a lot less maintenance and have fewer points of failure, so can be seen as a bit safer. The Dark Rock 4 is a good one, although if you're up in that price range I'd recommend anything from Noctua. Their stuff is bulletproof, the build quality is incredible. The NH-D14 is available for the same price as the Dark Rock 4 (the NH-D15 replaced it at a slightly higher cost, I'd go for that if you want the best of the best) and I think would be your best bet for air cooling.

However if you're really going after overclocking it as far as possible and you want to have more headroom, then out of what you recommended I'd say to go for the H115i if you're good with paying for it.

My plan is gaming and programe in Java, Python ... But i cant waste more than 300€ in a CPU right now.

Do you recommend me H7 or Artic33? I have seen this Cooler Master RR 212E but if you said H7 or Artic I can trust in you x)

So I think that I will buy this case, one of the cooler that you said to me and maybe this CPU if I dont have more recommendations.

Thank you man, I appreciate your help!

Yeah I'd go with an Intel build at this price point as well. An i5-2400 at stock speeds still pretty handily beats even a 980, and I'm not sure you'd be able to close the gap by overclocking it a little more.

If you could fit a 2500k there wouldn't even be any contest, Intel would be the better cpu for sure.

Your questions:

• Should be enough to run BF3 on high and Skyrim on probably high/ultra
  
• I'm going to change this to a 2500k and a mobo that can overclock it
  
• 620w is definitely enough
  
• As long as you're willing to deal with having to ship it over internationally I don't think there's much of a problem; the most problem-prone parts would probably be.. the mobo or power supply? I don't really know tbh, the only one I would've worried about is the hard drive, but you only have an SSD in the build. I can't say if your case or monitor will come out in one piece though.
  

• I'll edit some changes in and I'll see what you think
  

  
  

  Edit: Here you go, a much much stronger cpu for only about $10 more.
  

  
  

  Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99 @ Microcenter
  Motherboard | ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $122.86 @ Newegg
  Memory | Corsair 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $33.22 @ Amazon
  Hard Drive | Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $105.00 @ B&H
  Video Card | HIS Radeon HD 6870 1GB Video Card | $139.99 @ Newegg
  Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.88 @ Amazon
  Power Supply | Silverstone 600W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $68.98 @ NCIX US
  Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $19.99 @ Newegg
  Monitor | Acer S231HLbid 23.0" Monitor | $154.99 @ Amazon
  Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) | $99.99 @ Newegg
  | | Total
  | Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | $974.89
  | Generated 2011-12-26 23:14 EST-0500 |
  
  Add in a cheap $20 cooler like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20
  
  And for about $30 more, you get way more performance out of your build.

Do you have stock cooler/radiator? is so I would look into upgrading. This one is good one Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO for budget and best on market right now. As for thermal paster Here is a pretty good one ARCTIC MX-4 Thermal Compound Paste

The thermal paste goes on top of your CPU when you fix your radiator/cooler, here is a good video on how, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2MEAnZ3swQ

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ThermalRight-True-Spirit-140-Direct/dp/B01MQCK1PJ

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NH-U12S-Premium-Cooler-NF-F12/dp/B00C9EYVGY/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-DUO-Configuration/dp/B07MC8CRVZ

I'm sure I'm missing some, as a 'murrican, but all of those will do the job well. The Thermalright is probably the best cooler of them for overclocking, the Noctua a bit more convenient (in terms of packaging, and they usually include a few fan accessories) and very close, while the Arctic Cooling one is a value option that will get the job done. If you're not planning on overclocking, the cheaper Arctic Cooling one will be every bit as good as either of the other two (and if you don't like the aesthetics, they sell a few different variants that are mainly different in colors).

I think a HEDT 5th gen should be compatible out of the box, but before you order, do verify that the cooler claims compatibility with your socket.

I think you're being scammed. That's just a stock cooler that usually comes free with non-K Intel CPUs. You won't be able to overclock with it. Buy a third party cpu cooler like this one.

About the other components:

Wayona: this is the first time I hear about this brand so I can't comment.

GTX 960: for a better gaming experience, it's better if you downgrade your motherboard and cpu and use the money to buy a better GPU like an RX 480, R9 390, or GTX 970.

PSU: that depends on your budget. Amazon.in sells good PSUs.

Pcpartpicker list doesn’t have the items I’d like to show you, but here’s what I recommend. (This PC could easily game 1440p)
————————————————————————
Storage: Pioneer m.2 nvme 512gb

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07P5QFRGJ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A1SNQ8NRBE1IGO&psc=1
————————————————————————
Extra Storage:Seagate BarraCuda 2tb 7200rpms

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07H2RR55Q/ref=ox_sc_act_image_10?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
————————————————————————
Ram/Mem: Timetic Ext Perf hynix 3200MHz

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07P6F97B1/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A23AD5LOJUVSEP&psc=1
————————————————————————
Power Supply: EVGA 750BQ Bronze 750W

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FYDUDJ0/ref=ox_sc_act_image_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
————————————————————————
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005O65JXI/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
————————————————————————
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07STGGQ18/ref=ox_sc_act_image_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
————————————————————————
GPU: Zotac Gaming Geforce RTX 2070 Super

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07XSPWMP9/ref=ox_sc_act_image_7?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
————————————————————————
Motherboard: MSI B450m PRO-VDH Max (3rd gen ryzen ready out of box without bios update)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07XH629TV/ref=ox_sc_act_image_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
————————————————————————
Case: Fractal Design Define C Mini

https://www.amazon.com/Fractal-Design-MicroATX-Cases-FD-CA-DEF-Mini-C-BK/dp/B01N05CPU8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=fractal+design+define+c+mini&qid=1573378413&sr=8-2
————————————————————————

I can only guess cpu throttling as others have said. I had a 2070 non super for awhile and it would do 50 fps ultra 4k, not 1080p. Even on an old intel 2600k with a decent cooler on it. That's probably your solution.

budget option https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HKBK2G5 I can vouch for this 20 dollar cooler. Used it for an i5 build the other day. works well enough, but the mount could be better, bend it down a bit (the AMD rocker arm thing) and you'll have a much easier time installing. I like it though, comes in blue, red, and rgb.

Extreme option https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK the NHd15 beats most liquid coolers, I use it with liquid metal thermal solution on an i7 and never go over 35C idle 55C under load.

I'm fan of air cooling if you couldnt tell. good luck to you.

You will need a new CPU cooler I recommend this

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Direct-Contact-Unique/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483483342&sr=8-2&keywords=Hyper+212

Hyper 212 is super cheap semi easy to install and a solid cooler for a light OC so for you to get to 4Ghz. Your motherboard isn't the best but it should work for the FX 6300 to reach 4Ghz.

As for overclocking I used this guide back in the day

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MckeAmnDeTk

This is for the FX 8350 but the FX 8350 and FX 6300 are the same chip except the FX 8250 has 2 more cores on it so the overclocking rules are the same overall.

As for temps I know your feeling I live in a literal desert cactus filled desert so I know temps with the hyper 212 you will be good with 4Ghz as long as you remember to keep your computer clean :)

It would, the socket type you've got for the motherboard and CPU is called "lga1151" so you're looking for one that fits that socket type. However I couldn't speak to that specific one. I would definitely suggest going with a reputable CPU cooler since that's basically the brain of the whole operation. The cooler it is the better everything works.

I haven't owned one, but the cooler master hyper 212 Evo is respectable from everything I've read and has a good price point.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_7.m0DbW6GS4FZ


Unless someone else has a better suggestion.

If you're really wanting to get technical on stuff like that Gamers Nexus on YouTube gets into all that, but can be a little overwhelming when first getting into it.

Same as the other, but double the capacity. IMO you will definitely want to get the 2TB. As a professional, I am guessing you go through a large amount of files and a 1TB might not be enough in the long run. Might as well spend $17 more and get a drive with double the capacity.

With this setup, you will have no redundancy. If your hard drive fails, you will probably lose all data on it. I recommend you get 2 hard drives and run them in RAID 1(Quick explanation of RAID 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eE7Bfw9lFfs&feature=youtu.be&t=57s)

Another way is to backup all your important data using a cloud service. This might get expensive depending on the service.

Everything else looks great on the build. The CPU cooler is OK, I prefer installing standard heatsinks in PCs with users who have limited knowledge, but the H100 will be fine. If you want to save money money, a $35 Hyper 212 will do just fine for your application: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417043389&sr=8-1&keywords=hyper+212

Hey, since your budget is around $1350, I can't say much but its best for you to choose your own keyboard, mouse, and headphones because they're personal equipment meaning one might not work best for you if it doesn't suit you comfortably. So, for now, I'm just gonna give you a PC build w/ monitor + OS only.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6GHz 6-Core Processor | $237.59 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - Hyper 212 LED 66.3 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $14.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI - Z370 GAMING PLUS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $89.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Patriot - Viper Elite 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $80.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate - NAS HDD 1TB 3.5" 5900RPM Internal Hard Drive | $42.49 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card | $509.99 @ Amazon
Case | DIYPC - J180-W ATX Mid Tower Case | $23.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $75.88 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Monitor | BenQ - GL2460HM 24.0" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor | $117.58 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1355.37
| Mail-in rebates | -$72.00
| Total | $1283.37
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-04-29 14:06 EDT-0400 |

EDIT: I forgot to add that some parts MIGHT not be available for international shipping like newegg. So if most of newegg products are unavailable in the Philippines, use amazon as an alternate. I just found out the GTX 1070 Ti I listed is not available in the Philippines. Buy these instead:

GTX 1070 Ti: https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GeForce-1070-GAMING-GV-N107TGAMING-8GD/dp/B077P9HX2V/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525025384&sr=1-4&keywords=gtx+1070+ti - same price as above

CPU Cooler: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212L-16PR-R1-Direct-Contact/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525025838&sr=1-1&keywords=Cooler+Master+-+Hyper+212+LED+66.3+CFM+Rifle+Bearing+CPU+Cooler - $24.99

CPU: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i5-8600K-Processor-Unlocked-BX80684i58600K/dp/B0759FKH8K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525025985&sr=1-1&keywords=i5-8600k - $238.99

Motherboard: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Z370-GAMING-PLUS-Motherboard/dp/B075GSVHGP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525026069&sr=1-1&keywords=MSI+-+Z370+GAMING+PLUS+ATX+LGA1151+Motherboard - $109.99

RAM: https://www.amazon.com/Patriot-Viper-Elite-2800MHz-PVE48G280C6KRD/dp/B0196AWR1Y/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525026139&sr=1-2&keywords=Patriot+-+Viper+Elite+8GB+%282+x+4GB%29+DDR4-2400+Memory - $84.99

Case: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Versa-Computer-Chassis-CA-1B2-00M1NN-00/dp/B00J0NZ5N0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525026260&sr=1-1&keywords=ThermalTake%2BH21&th=1 - $38.58

Buy those as an alternate (for newegg) and you're good to go! It shouldn't make such a price difference.

The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is basically the standard for air cooling, and cost $30. It'd be perfect for running at stock clock speeds and it should offer enough headroom for very mild overclocks.

The Cryorig H7 is extremely similar. I think I remember seeing a review that mentioned a better fin pattern or something like that so it's supposed to be marginally better than the 212. And the white fan looks pretty cool. I know that this one may or may not require an AM4 adapter kit depending whether or not it comes with the revised backplate. But you can just request that from Cryorig and they'll send on to you.

Most of the computer noise comes from what is called the CPU "heatsink" - a small fan on top of the very small processor. It is usually a VERY good idea to replace the heatsink for various reasons, but also decreases sound issues (as the fans are better, larger, better designed structure, etc.) Heatsinks depend on some part on what type of CPU/Processor you have. This is the one I have: CPU Heatsink for AMD edit: it should be noted that the linked heatsink is compatible with a large array of CPUs, just check if yours is there! =)

Sound can also be caused by your case (vents, insulation, set up, rattling, etc.), the amount and size of the fans (larger fans are quieter - less rotations, or whatever).

Also, when installing heatsinks - or anything else - just save yourself the trouble and google an installation video on youtube.

Well price is one of them. Better cooling, however, I personally would save money and put $30 more into your graphics card. That is why I'm suggesting you go with this or some other varient.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=zg_bs_3015422011_2?
_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DGSWWNZFJVGEVV31DRF6

That I believe is one of the best 1070's. And it looks great !!! So basically that Asus 1070 comes overclocked already when you open it out of the box. And I believe you could overclock it yourself even more than the stock overclock.

I recently built a new computer with an i7 2600K and the Corsair H80 cooler. I had the cooler for all of a day before the fan control went out. I actually found this out because the fans got REALLY loud. I decided to crack the case to try turning the speed down. At the time I had the computer OC'd to 4.5GHz and was running @ 65C when using torture test in Prime95.

I was very happy with the cooling but could not stand the sound. I built my system around being ultra-quite but powerful and this was a deal breaker. I RMA'd the cooler and after a lot of research decided on the [Noctura NH-D14](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VKVZ1A. /ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details). I installed it and under the same benchmark conditions as the H80 I'm at +/- 1C the same temperature and it's VERY QUITE. Surprisingly so for something with a 140mm and 120mm fan on it.

It's roughly the same price as the H80 so if your fan replacement options don't work out I highly suggest the Noctua.

Thank you so much!! I have that in my cart, I assume you meant this one?

As far as a case, I think I landed on this one, does that seem okay? I don't think it comes with fans so I added a 3 pack of Aigo fans to go with it, hopefully it's all compatible. If you don't think this is a good case would you recommend anything similar?

I really appreciate the help! No one I know in real life builds, so this is extremely helpful.

I'm not sure that heatsink will support LGA 2011, and I also don't know much about that particular one. I know one you can never go wrong with is the 212 Evo which is both inexpensive and a great performer. Also supports like every socket available.

Edit: Also would be happy to look over the components when youre ready

Overheating in that? Eh, probably not. I was assuming a cheaper case that'd be pretty cramped. If you're using it for music production, it might be a bit more important to have a stronger CPU. Why're you going micro-ATX for this build? Always go full ATX if possible. Does this look good? You'll save $35 there.

Also, everyone recommends this CPU cooler instead, including me. For music-making purposes, overclocking would actually be a very good idea. However, I don't know exactly how properly threaded that particular program is. If it's really well-designed, an FX 8350 might actually be much faster, especially if you OC that as well.

Consider the 2600X instead as it has higher clocks, and so will handle a GPU upgrade better. That said, you can always just OC your CPU too, and since the platform will be supported up to at least Zen 3 then you could also upgrade your CPU to a 3000 or 4000 series one as well, without the need to change your board.

That said, unless you really want that RAM, you don't need it. This will also work
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231941

Same with the PSU, it's overkill and too pricey. You could easily get a 400W PSU and not sweat it. But, it doesn't hurt to have a bit of headroom, so
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bkp323/seasonic-focus-plus-gold-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-550fx
Or, if you don't mind rebates then
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151187
Or, https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1365561-REG/seasonic_electronics_ssr_550px_focus_plus_550w_platinum.html or https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151193

Also, you don't really need an NVMe SSD either unless you're moving lots of big files around. You could easily get a 500GB SSD instead
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/fgZFf7/crucial-mx500-500gb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-ct500mx500ssd4

Since that case only comes with one fan though, you'll need another as an exhaust in order to have good airflow. If you don't mind controlling your fan's speed and setting a custom fan curve then get this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CG2PGY6
But if you don't want to do that then get this instead https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CG2PGVG

Yay! You're amazing!

I couldn't find any other part number from the official site. This is what I got from Amazon.




Shipping Weight: 1.8 Kg

Item model number: NH-D15 SE-AM4

ASIN: B01NC06ZYT

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-premium-grade-cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT/

(For the other AM4 ones from Noctua if you want to add them.)

Manufacturer reference: NH-U12S SE-AM4

ASIN: B01N9X2YYN

Item model number: NH-L9x65 SE-AM4

ASIN: B01N27QWFA

Item model number: NM-AM4-UXS

ASIN: B01N5UOPOB

Item model number: NM-AM4

ASIN: B01MTEFT52

Hope that helps!

I want to upgrade my Ryzen 5 2600 stock cooler. My goals are less noise and maybe some overclocking headroom. 3 of my options are:

​

|$24|Gammaxx 400|TDP 125W|RPM 1500|
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|$36|Cryorig H7|TDP 150W|RPM 1600|
|$47|Scythe Mugen 5 Rev. b|TDP >200W|RPM 1200|

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The first two are comparable to Hyper 212 Evo, and are good enough to cool the 2600. All 3 have a 120mm fan.

​

Do you think it would be sane to buy the Mugen 5 in order to have a quieter cooler, as well as... a much better cooler overall? Or should I go with the better value for the money?

Definitely get a cheap 3rd party cooler for that CPU my dude. An H7 would do just fine.

Edit: On second thought, Cryorig must be going out of business because the cooler I paid under around $30 is now well over $100. Another great option would be the budget king H212 Evo and step-ups include Noctua's offering or the Scythe Mugen, BeQuiet's, all are great budget coolers.

Basically the only difference between the 1700 and the 1700x is that the 1700x is guaranteed to clock to 3.4 GHz and Turbo to 3.8 GHz on certain cores. There should be additional overclocking headroom on top of that but it's never guaranteed. Not all 1700x's can overclock to the same frequency this is the "silicon lottery".

The 1700 is clocked at 3.0 GHz (3.7 GHz Turbo) most of the time it's overclockable to the same if not better performance than the stock 1700x but this isn't guaranteed and you'll probably need a better than stock cooler to get it there. This is partially why the 1700x doesn't ship with a cooler. It needs a beefier cooler like the Cryorig H7 which is an excellent budget option, you just might need a free AM4 bracket since they're still not shipping with one. The Cooler Master 212 is the same story, the H5 is shipping with the bracket included.

You don't need a water cooler, they are generally lower profile so if you have a small case you might need one but often the stock fans aren't much quieter than the fan on the CPU coolers I linked. In brief periods of thermal testing they outperform air coolers but for long gaming sessions the difference in CPU thermals is minimal especially given the increased cost. They do look dope though.

1600 vs 1600x

1450 vs 1600 vs 1700

I'm a bit of a stickler for aesthetics too. Interestingly enough (though I forgot to mention) I want to do a black/blue setup as well. I'm tempted to do a case with a window so I can showcase some blue LEDs and try to find a cheap liquid cooling solution. I was looking at some of Corsair's but I'm not sure if the quiet model will fit my cooling needs.

I actually have some brand new Audio Technica ATH-M50s that I really like, and they're low resistance so they sound pretty damn good even without a headphone amp. Although incidentally the Scarlett Focusrite does have a built-in headphone amp so that'll get me started on that end. They're closed headphones though so if I'm in the market for opens I'll definitely keep your suggestion in mind!

Fantastic --
Here were the two I was talking about:

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1479615279&sr=1-2&keywords=cryorig+h7


https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005HIRDUA/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1479615279&sr=1-2&keywords=cryorig%2Bh7&th=1


I think ill wait until I get my heatsink before I start overclocking --
What temp ranges are ok? Does uping or lowering voltage contribute to increase/decrease in temp?
When I oc, can I just leave it overclocked or do I have to turn it on and off. I assume it depends on how much your temps fluctuate over a period of time. Any way to monitor this?

Is the goal of of successful OCing to have the highest GHz with the lowest voltage? Is 1.325 considered high or low (what are the general ranges)

Sorry for the oral diareha, im just super curious.
Thanks for the help =D

A good cooler for this would be Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO for 3000. So, the cost goes to around 23000. This is a 100% premium over the r5.1600 for sure, but you get a 15% increase in performance and 2 cores and 4 threads.

I personally wont go for it, but there are people who want a high end CPU and this is the one to get.

It is the best affordable workstation cpu in the market. Another good option is https://mdcomputers.in/amd-octa-core-ryzen-7-1800x.html @ 23000/-

H100i should be good, but you need to make sure you can fit it on your case.

http://www.amazon.de/gp/help/customer/display.html/?nodeId=505554

http://www.amazon.de/Noctua-NH-D14-LGA1366-LGA1156-LGA1155/dp/B002VKVZ1A

Amazon germany will deliver to Belgium for free for orders of 30 euros.

Keep in mind that what you have is essentially a piledriver based CPU that has been overclocked to insane speeds and as such it will consume lots of power and release lots of heat. Generally the CPU throttles at 60-65 degrees and seeing as you are already hitting those and more I would be worried.

Try to do some management to improve airflow as well. At full load that GPU + CPU will be like an ezbake oven in your case.

The Z77 board should be completely compatible with your CPU the question is HP and other manufacturer have been known ro glue or even sodder CPUs to the boards. Don't know if they still do but they've done it in the past. While your at it get a after market cooler ideally this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005O65JXI/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SY115&simLd=1 it cools the best for almost any price point including lower end Water Cooling systems. And it's one of the quietest. Good luck

I bought

This mobo

with

This case

Ram and Air Cooler and This Lighting kit and These fans x3 for back and two on top

paired with MSI Gaming X 480 8GB gpu so that everything matches.

Yes overkill for this cpu but fuck it, I love the color scheme. I'll just benchmark the system and throw in a Kaby i5 7600K for the real CPU intended for this build right after and use the G4560 for an ultra cheap build I will gift to my son's friend so they can play some games together.