Reddit mentions: The best craft adhesives

When I got home and looked at your link more closely, I realized that it is a T430-focused guide that I had already found with Google. It's a good guide, but it is lacking the T430s specific answers I was looking for. Thank you for quoting that post from the user who swapped palm-rests + keyboards between T430s and T420s, good to get confirmation on that route working well.

I found a guide auf Deutsch covering the FHD screen mod on T430s specifically. It is excellent, and readable enough through Google translate, but we should have a guide in English as well. I took a ton of pictures as I did the FHD upgrade and T420 keyboard fitment, so I will be posting up a detailed guide / comparison for both.

 

When I had my laptop apart again yesterday while installing the FHD screen (I'm over the moon about that upgrade), I decided to try again with just jamming the unmodified T420 keyboard into the T430s palm rest. While the T420 keyboard doesn't quite fit right with its much thicker tabs, I was barely able to secure it in place after fighting to get one of the misaligned screw holes to bite, and somehow without cross-threading it!

I think a lot of folks would be unhappy with this solution however, as the bottom right-hand corner of the T420 keyboard ends up pretty bouncy due to its tab(s) not being secured into the palm rest. But for me, so far this issue isn't bothering me enough to do anything about it. I'd rather not risk metal shavings going into the T420 keyboard from taking a Dremel to its tabs. Actually, as I'm typing this, the noise from the loosely mounted keyboard bouncing from using the cursor keys is starting to bother me a bit. I may end up getting out the Dremel in the end.

 

Side note: from my comparison the T420 keyboard actually appears far superior to the T430 keyboard as far as chassis water resistance. The water drain holes line up perfectly, and the T420 keyboard forms a shallow tub with "walls" around its periphery. The T430 keyboard is just completely flat, and makes no effort to channel water directly into the drain holes, and has holes in it to boot, where the T420 keyboard has a contiguous sticker covering its entire bottom. Folks with T430/s: get the T420 keyboard, it is worth it in every way!

 

There's so much more that I want to say about the T420 keyboard upgrade, and about the upgraded T430s being such a great option for a "new" laptop even in 2018. I will make a separate post about my T430s upgrades. But so far I am unsurprisingly in love with the T420 keyboard, and its superior TrackPoint nipple and buttons.

I also put some patches of peel-and-stick real, black suede onto the palm rest, which feels beyond amazing. When typing at maximum speed, I'm not resting my palms at all. But when typing casually, which is most of the time for me, I definitely am enjoying the suede immensely!

 

Thanks again for your help!

I've started playing around with wax seals using a variety of different methods, and here are some results from today. I used this wax kit (600 wax beads, a melting/mixing spoon, and 3 tea lights for $15 on Amazon) and this sealing kit (6 seals and a handle for $19 on Amazon).

The spoon that comes with the kit is garbage in that you are likely to break it during cleaning after your first session. I don't appear to be the only one who experienced this, judging from reviews. The wax is decent: it was somewhat rubbery after cooling, which makes it well-suited for mailing. (Some waxes harden too stiffly to survive the sorting machines used by the postal service. That said, it can be peeled off paper without too much trouble. Thus, it's nice for looks and will likely make it through the mail, but don't depend on it for security and make sure it's protected if you mail it.

The sealing kit is very nice. It's cheaper on Ali Express if you don't mind the wild west of overseas ordering, but I wanted something quickly and will order more seal tips ($1-$6 each) in a while. One thing I noticed about these seals (compared to the ones you might find in the wedding section of Michael's) is that the seal patterns were cut much deeper. I was concerned that they would be too coarse, but it really brought out the detail and now I think the seals from Michael's are too fine. One way this manifested itself was when I was testing different wax bead counts. The "sweet spot" is 3-4 beads, depending on the seal. You can get away with only 2, but rather than looking like a mistake, the seal's design ended up getting filled out with the wax, yielding kind of a cool effect: the pattern extended a little beyond the circle of wax, which now appeared almost like a popout backdrop. This was repeatable. Fun stuff!

After the wax cooled, I went over the surface details with a paint pen. I had good luck with Sakura Pen-touch paint markers in 1.0 mm, but you can use whatever your local stores stock. At Walmart, for example, that's either Painters or Sharpie. I do NOT recommend Sharpie. The quality of their paint is poor, leaving you with results that are oily and transparent unless you use a lot. Painters pens are decent but are much more susceptible to leaking and making a mess than Sakura, and aren't really much cheaper if you buy a set or have a local art supply store that carries Sakura.

Sakura Pentouch paint markers are available in fine (1.0mm) and medium (1.8mm but often sold as 2.0mm), in a wide range of colors: copper, black, white, red, yellow, green, blue, and purple, and kits are available for gold/silver/copper and black/white/red/yellow/green/blue/purple. I don't know if both kits are available in 2.0mm as I only bought them in 1.0mm.

Note that the rubbery wax's surface didn't like to pick up the paint at first. I ended up with either too little or too much. This can likely be solved with patience: lay down a little paint, let it dry to act as a primer, then lay down a little more. Don't be impatient like I did or you'll end up with too much paint and a messy finish.

Some other options for wax sealing include wax candles (with wicks) that you can light and drip, wax sticks (no wicks) that are melted using another candle, torch, or flame, and round wax/glue sticks designed to be put through a low-temp glue gun. I've tried all types, and here is my take:

• Wax candles are the easiest to set up and use, but can be the messiest. Easy-ish to mix colors if you have hand dexterity. These are harder to find as supple/malleable wax, and if you do, it's more expensive.
  
• Wax sticks are just as messy as the sticks but lack a wick so are slightly more difficult to use but less likely to turn black with soot. Supple/malleable wax can be found under several brands, including some carried by Goulet Pens, but they're somewhat expensive.
  
• Glue gun sticks are the easiest to do large, bulk quantities, but can be boring. Again, supple/malleable wax can be found but are more expensive.
  
• Wax pellets take the longest to set up, and the clean-up takes longer since you have to wipe down a spoon. However, it can yield the nicest results, particularly if you like mixing colors. The kit I bought was pretty cheap for the amount of wax, yet was surprisingly soft and I'm confident it can go through the mail without a problem, other than possible tear-off.
  
  Wax sealing is a fun addition to card/letter-writing, doesn't have to be expensive, and can really make whatever you're sending pop. I hope this post was interesting, and that it encourages you to try out wax sealing! :-)

Saran Wrap has already been mentioned. I use it, but it has some serious limitations. It is not good for small areas, like tying wrists together, or anything less than a full arm, to a bedpost. You need to use it in full sheet size not as a rope. So, it is best for more mummification type scenarios where she puts her arms at her side and you wrap the saran wrap around her entire body trapping her arms to her side. You can go around the hips and both legs together as well. You can then cut (use EMT scissors, if you are going to do bondage you really should have a pair!) or safer yet just tear areas out for access.
I buy the colored saran wrap in the holiday boxes after the holidays on discount. I’m going to remove the cellophane from the box anyway, and I like the colored wrap for effect. I bought about 5 rolls of both red and green after Christmas this year for about $0.75 a box this year. I tend to use 1 to 1.5 rolls each time I play with it.

[Vet Wrap] (https://www.walmart.com/ip/NEOGEN-CORPORATION-PF118-G-Syrflex-4-x-5-YD-Green-Vet-Wrap-Cohesive-Bandage/45821697), also called Coban (the 3M trademark name), is fairly cheap and can be bought at Walmart. It can be used to tie fairly small areas although once again it should not be rolled into a rope, think more like how bandage rolls are put on. You can use this to bind wrists together, or ankles to bedposts. It sticks to itself but does not stick to skin, hair, or clothing. It is light weight, moisture resistant, and reusable. It can be used over sensitive areas like the face (ever considered binding someone’s writs to the back of their head, with this you can!) comes in different colors, and is fairly cheap. It is made of latex, so make sure everyone is good with that. It can be found for 3-4 dollars a roll, stay away from sterile rolls as they will cost considerably more (like $20 a roll as opposed to $ 4), are only sterile until taken out of the package, and offers no advantage in bondage play. Overall it is a good tool to have in any bondage kit.

Bondage Tape, also called Amazing Tape or self-cling tape, is something in between vet wrap and saran wrap. It is a non-adhesive tape made out of a plastic material much more durable than the cellophane that saran wrap is made of. You can buy it in 1 inch wide (by like 50 foot long) rolls and use it to tie someone up like you would with vet wrap, also don't roll it into rope. Unlike saran wrap it is reusable. It is preferred to vet wrap mainly because it is less stretchy meaning you can make more secure bondage, and it feels more like bondage and less like medical play.

Overall you don't want anything to become thin and ropelike. The wider the area it covers the less pressure on any given point, which prevents circulation loss and nerve damage. When using rope the types of ties to do that are not hard to learn. You can't use knots that are going to collapse or slide and allow the rope to tighten when pressure is put on the line. Saran wrap, Bondage tape, and vet wrap simply do not have properties conductive to tying knots that will not slip and tighten so don't try it.

There's a lot of ways to approach stenciling. I just started about 5 months ago and have a decent number of pieces completed, but i'm still learning each time I cut and paint.

I'll be happy to share a list of what I use, but just keep an open mind and remember that there's not just a single way to do this.

[] Materials []

• I use #11 blades [Link]
  
• I alternate between these two knives [[link]
  (https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-Designer-Hobby-Craft-X3254/dp/B002A2QTGK/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1501185899&sr=8-22&keywords=xacto+11+knife)] [link]
  
• Painters tape [Link]
  
• Spray Mount (Not spray adhesive - I just learned this last week) [link]
  
• 110lb cardstock paper
  
• Clear scotch tape
  
  
• As for paint I just started using Montana, which is a nice-to-have but definitely not necessary. I did a lot of my first pieces with Rusto - in general just stay away from gloss, super gloss, high gloss (it can work, but in general you will have an easier time with flat/mattes.) I went through a lot of trial and error with paint - I bought some Krylon paint which was at a higher price point and it was absolute shit (very watery and runny no matter how long I shook my cans.)
  
  
  [] General Tips []
  
  
• Making your stencils is definitely a part where people's methods differ (specifically in photoshop and breaking up your layers.) Just search YouTube and find a method that works with you.
  
  
• For larger pieces I use rasterbator. Stich them together with clear scotch tape and cut as usual. I tape both sides of the seams/edges.
  
  
• Take your time with your cuts
  
• Make sure your workspace is clean
  
• Let your layers dry
  
• Make sure your stencils are laying flat
  
• shake the shit outta your cans (especially with cheaper paint.) When you think you've shaken enough, shake for another 60 seconds.
  
• Mind the distance between your cans and the canvas (or whatever medium you're painting on)
  
• Take it easy on the paint, you don't need much to create a solid layer.
  
  
  Hope this is helpful, remember to share your pieces!

• Helix Circle Maker (~$8, use this a lot).
  
• This set of 48 skinny washi tape (be aware that the image DOES represent the products. I liked all but 3 of the tapes, and only one-third had gold foil patterns).
  
• Sakura Pigma Micron pens (I use 01 and 08 the most).
  
• Tombow Fudenosuke brushpens (I like the soft tip, but I bought the two pack. It came with a mini ruler that I cut to fit into my A6-ish's pocket and that's the ruler I use, if I use one). ~$3/pen
  
• If I need an eraser, my favorite is Pentel Clic Eraser ZE-22. I've had this for decades. Has never failed me. Also, no stub problems.
  
• I use Tombow brush pens, but eh. I should have bought the monochrome set rather than the ones I have. I do not regret buying #451, #243, and #062, but YMMV (~$3/pen).
  
• The Pentel Aquash Brush pens are the best way to get into water brush pens, water coloring ($3 per).
  
• Along with a Prima watercolors palette (I favor Tropicals, but will go for Odessey next time, ~$15-25). It made me realize that actually, yes, I do enjoy water colors.
  
  Best of luck!

Thanks! It was fun to collect! I very carefully gave the web a generous coat of black spray paint. I covered a sheet of card stock paper with a thick coating of spray glue and pressed the page into the web from the back side. I very slowly pulled the page towards me, putting extra pressure in spots where the web didn't appear to be sticking to the paper. I let the web break itself, and viola! I do wish I'd have let it sit for a few minutes instead of putting it straight into the frame and I wish I'd given the top a coat of spray adhesive as well but I'm sure I'll get to practice again soon. Good luck in collecting your own super cool webs!

The glue sticks are cheap. You can pick them up 30 of them at most stores like Walmart, or on Amazon for $5.00 or less. I used maybe 3 sticks while making the sword I talk about below.

I actually got this glue gun on Amazon for $9 and I really like i because it has a small tip, an on/off switch and it came with 30 sticks (https://www.amazon.com/ccbetter-Upgraded-Removable-Anti-hot-Flexible/dp/B01178RVI2/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8C7YNR2TC2S6CP1WJ8C2)

​

I finished my 2nd attempt at pepp'ing a world of warcraft sword (http://www.papercraftsquare.com/a-full-size-world-of-warcraft-sword-papercraft-free-template-download.html) only this time I used hot glue instead of just plain white glue and it went much better, especially the difficult joints like where the hilt meets the sword.

I think it was similar to what you are facing where the hilt is. I would put just a drop or 2 of glue on the tab then stick it to the matching end. The glue dries in only a few seconds so it bonded well. Like I mentioned before, when I messed it up, I would put the tip of the glue gun on the joint to melt the glue the try again.

​

Hope this helps. If you have more questions, I am happy to help.

Another great place to ask pep questions are therpf.com. I am building a complete stormtrooper armor and this site has been an awesome resource for me.

So I got the idea off YouTube from a guy called MTB Alan. Super awesome video of him showing you step by step. Check it out.

https://youtu.be/SUtwXFQMA6w

$10:
Sugru Mouldable Glue - Black (3-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5azoDb9ANG90W

$7:
Suptig Tripod Mount Adapter for Gopro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XVZKP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0czoDbBPVN334

That’s it. IMO looks way better than zip ties, holds much better than zip ties. The Sugru is tested for 4lbs (roughly 2kg) and it feels solid as a rock. Took about 5 minutes to knead, 2 minutes to mold, and then let it sit for 48 hours. The pack says 24 will be plenty but since I used all 3 packs I decided to let it sit a little longer.

Hope it helps somebody! 🤙🏼🤙🏼

Sure,

well theres three types of labels, printed cans( cant do anything with )

Wraps ( plastic that has a seam) you can cut these but you have to cut the seam and then snip the top and bottom ring area then it will flatten.

Adhesive labels. ( these work best)

I try to use the edge of an xacto knife or even a fingernail on a part of the label that i know ill maybe trim a hair off of anyway , so that it hides any crinkling.

there are a few companies that its just impossible to get the labels off of, some bottles like Founders, or cans like aslin, dont work well , usually bigger bottles work good though. Prairie works great. I recommend these magnet sheets,

https://www.amazon.com/Craftopia-Magnetic-Adhesive-Anything-Flexible/dp/B071L97W57/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525196048&sr=8-3&keywords=magnet+sheets

and i use xacto knives and a craft mat like this one, https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Self-Healing-Cutting-GBM1218/dp/B0015AOIYI/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1525196109&sr=1-4&keywords=craft%2Bcutting%2Bmat&dpID=51gR%252BOrM3WL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1

so you dont cut through it to the table youre on etc, the key to making your cuts nice and clean is putting a good amount of pressure during your cut and cutting fairly slowly.

use a straight edge, use metal rulers, plan out the size of the label, peel it off the can or bottle and affix it adhesive side down on the adhesive side of the magnetic backing. then just square off your edges with cuts and bingo instant fridge magnet.


You can also do it with brewery stickers as well.

A very cool invention! Bet this person has made some bank. :)

https://smile.amazon.com/Scotty-Peelers-Label-Sticker-Remover/dp/B0068QIQVA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484157229&sr=8-1&keywords=scotty+peeler

That, combined with a hair dryer, makes it so much easier to remove labels.

ETA: I found one of these, Used, on eBay and it's perfect. It's the small travel version with a folding handle and has Tourmaline crystals in it which help reduce static electricity. It's great for my hair, as well! :)

https://smile.amazon.com/BaBylissPRO-Tourmaline-Titanium-Travel-Dryer/dp/B003QKL5YQ/ref=sr_1_3_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1484157360&sr=8-3&keywords=babyliss+pro+tt

It is a pretty easy thing. You just get yourself one of those wax sticks with a candle wick inside. Then you light it just like a candle, let the wax on the envelope, press your stamp into the still somewhat soft wax (it is usually softer than it looks) and tadaaaaaaaah: A wax seal.

There are two kinds of sealing wax: Flexible and brittle. No idea though how you would call the brittle one on Amazon. Flexible is good and easy to transport (even via mail, I sometimes send personal letters sealed for the fun) but you need the more brittle one for creating that moment of "breaking the seal".

More to read at the /r/WaxSealers information link: History and How to

Edit: An amazing job with the invitation OP. Looks really nice!

The easiest thing is to get parchment style printer paper, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L2OMUHS/

Then just use a simple word processing program, like Microsoft Word, or Google Docs, to create the handout you want, using any kind of script font (just not one that is hard to see) to create whatever letter/handout you want.

Then you can stain it a bit with coffee, burn the edges a bit with a lighter, and/or crumble it up into a ball then unfold it a few times, to make it look old.

I also go this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F3XG9VW

and some wax so I could do real wax seals on envelopes and things.

These make great thematic hand outs. You could use the same paper to print out your modifications to races/classes, just skip the stuff to make it look dirty/old.

Why not just save yourself time and energy and change the design. That's what they did to make it work. I would make the legs from 4x4 (which is really 3.5 x 3.5) and the horizontals pieces from 2 x 4 (again, realy 2.5 x 3.5) Everything will match up and it will look just fine. Or just use 2x for all of it. That's the best part about seeing a design you like. Just make it work for the tools and materials you have at your disposal.
Also, another suggestion would be to add rubber tabs or felt tabs to the top of the wood for the glass to rest on. Otherwise, that glass could easily slide around. I'd go with something like this to keep the glass protected from the wood and in place: http://www.amazon.com/Self-adhesive-Clear-Rubber-Feet-Bumpons/dp/B001JASGH4

Great idea. Will really help those riding behind you understand why your not moving over. Thank you for being considerate to others!!!

As an idea to help you see behind you. You might be able to get a small flexible plastic mirror that you can attach to the brim of your helmet. If oriented the correct way, you should be able to make out if someone is behind you. In a catch, it is very unlikely to cause a secondary issue. Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Flexible-Mirror-Sheets-Cuttable-Plastic/dp/B01BU99K6E

Do you mean something like these? Because that seems like an awesome idea! https://www.amazon.com/Self-adhesive-Clear-Rubber-Feet-Bumpons/dp/B001JASGH4

You have some great tips too, thanks.

They sell precut mini mirrors if you have a square shape, but I couldn't find any in the size I needed.

I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BU99K6E/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They work pretty well as long as you apply it perfectly flat. Otherwise you get sort of a fun house mirror effect.

It was actually quite simple. I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BU99K6E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

And then I made a triangle and taped it inside the machine bottom to allow for it to stay off the drip tray. I then cut another piece and laid it on top of the triangle. I will take some pictures and another video today. I was able to clean it up a bit and make it more clean by taking off an additional layer of the protective plastic. :)

​

Overall, very pleased with the results. Now if I could just hit the cup :)

BONUS TABLE

All of the above is assuming you have everything required for building your quad if not below is a table with everything i think is necessary for building a quad. All these links will be from amazon

Part Type | Part Name | Quantity | Total Cost | Reason | Link
---------|---------|----------|----------|---------|----------|
Soldering Station | Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station | 1 | $100 | When it comes to working with quads and electronics you really don't want to skimp on the thing that's putting it together. A good soldering station can change your entire experience when it comes to building quads. For this reason we go with a Hakko once bought you will not need anything else later on. | http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1458237822&sr=8-7&keywords=soldering+station
Hot Glue Gun | CCbetter® Mini Hot Glue Gun | 1 | $15 | You will use this more than you think, everything from securing your camera, antennas, etc to adding extra insulation to your components to ensure nothing falls off or gets ripped off. | http://www.amazon.com/CCbetter%C2%AE-Temperature-Melting-Flexible-Projects/dp/B01178RVI2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458237957&sr=8-3&keywords=hot+glue+gun
Velcro | VELCRO Brand - Sticky Back | 1 | $11 | Sometimes you need things to only stick for a bit then take it off. Velcro is pretty much self explanatory keep your vtx in place among other things | http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Back-Black/dp/B00006RSWT/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458238198&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=stick+yvelcro
Zip Ties | Heavy Duty Black Cable Ties | 1 | $11 | The corner stone of fpv IMO. These are keeping more quads flying than anything else. | http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Black-Cable-Ties-120lbs/dp/B003Y61A10/ref=pd_sim_60_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41r7oTe3IpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=1G5GJ28Z3M8JBJDW67RV
Solder | Miniatronics Corp 1064004 Rosin Core Solder 60/40 4oz | 1 | $12 | You are always going to need solder and this as the flux mixed in meaning it will be a very easy to use solder. | http://www.amazon.com/Miniatronics-Corp-1064004-Rosin-Solder/dp/B0006O933K/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1458238393&sr=1-7&keywords=solder&refinements=p_85:2470955011
Velcro Straps | Reusable Dubbex Black Velcro Cable Ties | 1 | $13 | Can be used for pretty much anything like batterystrap, hold wires down etc. | http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AW0BDNK?psc=1
Voltmeter | Blackcell DC 3.2-30V LED 0.56inch Panel Meter Digital Voltmeter | 1 | $7 | Eventually something is going to go wrong and you are going to have to ensure that your voltages are correct. You are going to need this to verify volt outputs and to figure out what they are when there is no documentation for what you are looking at | http://www.amazon.com/Blackcell-3-2-30V-0-56inch-Voltmeter-Two-wire/dp/B00ZZIXT8W/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1458238663&sr=1-6&keywords=voltmeter&refinements=p_85:2470955011
Desolder Tool | LyonsBlue Desoldering Vacuum Pump | 1 | $9 | Very useful for cleaning up to much solder or removing solder from contact pads to redo. Simply heat up the solder and suck it out. | http://www.amazon.com/LyonsBlue-Desoldering-Vacuum-Solder-Removal/dp/B003FHYL7I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458238959&sr=8-2&keywords=desolder
TOTAL | FOR | ALL | $178 | |

I have a few awesome teen gift ideas, I will post some links to for you. Im sort of know as giver of random awesome things to my neice and nephews. If you can give me some ideas of what he likes I can try to track down more specific things.

These will all be through amazon because its easiest but they can be found elsewhere.

Wacky Waving Inflatable Tube Guy (RP Minis) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0762462876/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T6EXDbE0R87ZK

Ravensburger Disney Villainous Strategy Board Game for Age 10 & Up - 2019 Toty Game of The Year Award Winner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DLGD9K6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x7EXDb180973A

Acrylic Dragon Ball Set Z Shenron Action Figure Statue with 7pcs 3.5cm balls and stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0793S17T5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_68EXDb2DE13K5

WOWOSS Hogwarts Magic School Badge Wax Seal Stamp Kit Retro Wax Sealing Set Party Invitation Stamps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LBN1722/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h.EXDbXJESRC3

Cyxus Blue Light Blocking Glasses for Computer Use, women/men UV Filter Eyewear, Square Eyeglasses Frame, Anti EyeStrain Headache(8082T01, Lightweight Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GNO3G48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HbFXDbZP51PSZ

freakin duct tape
1.because if you saw my discussion it was about how i love it and can sit for hours making stuff out of it that's why lol
2. its pretty.
3. this was the only one i could find that didnt say my purchase had to over 25 $$$ lol i didnt know if that matted
It's the weekend

I just used this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BXYWXY8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

to reassemble a Time Steel that I replaced the battery in. Worked great. It's probably not water proof anymore, but with two layers of it, it's probably at least splash resistant.

I peeled the previous double stick material off (it's actually pretty easy with just fingernails alone) and then placed one layer on the plastic gasket, and one layer on the underside of the screen. Getting the screen reconnected was a little tricky and required the use of a long thin metal tool, you might be okay with just a flathead screwdriver.

I do! Amazon, I’m not sure which ones you’re referring to so here’s links to all three :) I used the fine liners this morning and they’re amazing!

Agutape 48 Rolls Washi Tape Set,Foil Gold Skinny Decorative Masking Washi Tapes,3MM Wide DIY Masking Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0782SBNBR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oxu7CbZFA718A

[36 Rolls] 0.5cm/ 0.2 inch Wide Colorful Washi Tapes Assorted Pure Colors, DIY Planner Craft Tape Paper Decor Scrapbooking Sticker Masking Paper Decoration, Gift Wrapping https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HYQQFH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Nxu7CbQBFQFJX

Washi Tape Set of 7 Rolls - Travel Planner Daily Life Diary Number Weather Week Date Notebooks Decorative DIY Japanese Masking Adhesive Sticky Paper Washi Tape Set (Width: 15mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GW8FG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cyu7CbXDNRRJN

The Yi cameras are really very good for the money. The Yi Lite gets great reviews and it's cheap, and you can use all the standard GoPro mounts, so you can use some Sugru to custom implant a GoPro mount on the face of your helmet. You can also use your general 3M tape to stick the mounts on nicely as well.

I won't lie... Cheap Amazon Prime accessible tape.
The two names are as follows;

2mm Clear Double Sided Strong Adhesive Acrylic Tape For Phone LCD Screen Repair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OQ4Z10?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Eco-Fused Adhesive Sticker Tape for Use in Cell Phone Repair - 2mm Tape - also including 1 Pair of Tweezers / Eco-Fused Microfiber Cleaning Cloth (black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXYWXY8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I know they're cheap, but how much should I spend/what should I search for when I purchase? Computers are my hobby, but I work in kitchens and bake bread full time... Soooo, I'm pretty good with my hands. Application is not the issue here.

Get Joe's Sticky Stuff. It's like that adhesive they use on credit cards but on crack. It's really strong but peels off cleanly with no residue. To get it off easily, pull it horizontally so it stretches, kinda like a Command strip.

Get yourself some Scotty Peelers. The plastic ones are pretty safe for surfaces.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068QIQVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aHDzDb2262KP9

These work pretty well too, and your money might go farther

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Scrapers-Replacement-Stickers-Application/dp/B07K1RKLR4

I use BMC chisels; these lines were made with a 0.4mm one. As I guide I use a combination of things depending on the line. To start I use a small clear ruler and micron pen to sketch out the lines until I get a design I like. Then I use one of the following methods depending on the surface and length:

• for long lines that need to be at specific angles I'll make sure to mark two points with the marker and then place dymo labeling tape to guarentee I have a straight line. Then over that I put the actual guide which is dymo embossing tape.. Then I scribe. An example of this is the moderate and long vertical lines on the shield. I started with the 4 short diagonal lines which gave me the two points on each side to base the vertical lines on. Each side then used a single set of dymo tapes so that they would align with each other (the lower and higher lines).
  
  
• for moderate lines at easier angles (i.e. right angels) I'll use just the dymo embossing tape over making a line with the marker.
  
  
• for short lines (<4mm) I'll free hand it.
  
  
• for lines around edges which I want to be symmetrical I'll do use a combination of the labeling and embossing tape. The embossing tape can't really round edges because it's too thick, but the labeling tape is too thin to really guide the scribe well. So I use the labeling tape to wrap around the part, guaranteeing the angle. Then I use a single piece of embossing per side of the angled surface. If I need to I'll do the little bit of the corner left using the scribed lines on either side to guide me, so mostly free handed because it'll be such a small surface.
  
  TL;DR BMC Chisels, Dymo Embossing/Labeling tape, ruler, micron pen, and

I don't particularly like hoops for framing. I use this type of sticky mounting board and regular frames, possibly from thrift shops or eBay. Wrap excess fabric to the back, or cut if off flush with the edge if the frame hides it well enough.

Typically you just use long stitches to "lace" the edges of the fabric tightly across the back of whatever it is being mounted on. For gifts framed in hoops you can sew or glue on a felt circle to cover the back tidily and to protect the wall.

Material for counted thread types of embroidery is much cheaper bought as large pieces. Other embroidery does fine on most closely woven fabrics (but preferably one where you can massage accidental needle holes into invisibility). Pre-shrink it if necessary -- unless you frame the piece under glass it may need some sort of wash/wipe in future.

If you are spending lots of inspiration and lots of hours on a piece, buying good fabric is justified. An evening embroidering is still a very cheap evening compared with many other hobbies or ways of spending your time.

If you just need to patch a tear, I've used tent-repair tape on my socks with pretty good success.

Amazon washi tape first thing that pops up for me! Super inexpensive and I love the designs

My first and only hockey game was with my friend and her husband to see the Wild play. She had season tickets and we were in the 6th row. It was so much fun. >.>

item


Have fun at the game!

Loud whistle - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FOJRF64/

Heavy duty velcro - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O6T2ZS

Sugru throttle nub - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/

I liked the recent post with the bicycle bell mod, really anything to enhance safety, especially in NYC, where jaywalkers cross roads diagonally with their heads buried in their phones and then proceed to do the "evade me" shimmy when they finally see you coming.

I use it sparingly, 120 dB is on the human pain threshold for hearing, so it's quite jarring. A quick toot toot tends to resolve most antsy situations, but a nice sustained hard whistle can even help you be heard from inside yellow cabs.

It was pretty easy actually. Found some parchment style envelopes and letters and a Hogwarts seal wax kit. Both on amazon. Then just wrote up the invitations along with custom character sheets.

​

If you ever end up doing this I recommend practicing fixing the seals with the other colored wax that's included first before sealing the actual envelopes, and get more red wax if you're making out more than 8-9 letters!

Parchment Kit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B4V21TZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sealing wax set:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LBN1722/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pic of the broken part? Used is definitely the best option, but could the broken part be put back on? Little super glue? Depending if there is a lever you can put some Sugru on it as a nice grip that won't cut your finger.

https://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Mouldable-Glue-Original-Formula/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/

Awesome bag collection. I've been turning my bags into refrigerator magnets and covering the fridge. Looks pretty cool. Just get some of this: https://www.amazon.com/Craftopia-Magnetic-Adhesive-Anything-Flexible/dp/B071L97W57/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520867044&sr=8-2&keywords=magnetic+sticky+sheets
and cut to whatever shape you want.

Try searching DyMo tape. Your comment aroused my curiosity because I loved those old machines, and I was able to find them easy on amazon. http://www.amazon.com/DYMO-Embossing-Tape-Green-8-Inch/dp/B0091067DO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1412209031&sr=8-3&keywords=dymo+tape

Don't let go of the old school tech! It will never run out of batteries. . . until you do.

I use a wax seal for every letter or card I write. I have never had issues with them in the mail and they are fun to do. I use these wax seal sticks. You can light them like a birthday candle and just drip a little on the envelope. I have never used the spoon method but it looks a little messy to me. I recommend you get a stamp with deep impressions. If the pattern isn't carved in very deep it doesn't show up very well in the wax.

Not so easy on a book but I buy and sell stuff that often has stickers. I use this sticker removal kit. The plastic scrapers are pretty handy. I actually sharpened the plastic edges with a nail file, works better. Usually I use citrus based cleaning wipes and goo gone as well but that would likely smear the ink on a book cover.

You can buy thin sheets of magnet and cut it to whatever size or shape you want. Now as far as affixing the photos I would try a few things and see what works best.

Edit: found an Amazon link if you like that sort of thing. I get bored at work some one should benefit.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071L97W57/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RJ26Ab031R35N

Yes. You can also get them pre cut, but I prefer cutting myself for a better fit.

Edit: wrong link

Premium quality suede sheets 8.5"x12" with super-strong self-adhesive backing. Ideal for making peel-and-stick (self-stick, stick-on) soles for dance shoes, [SUEDE-DIY-black]. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CBJLNW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T43gDbXTCTK6P

I was thinking about using something like this (flexible mirror sheet). Super easy to work with, no sharp edges and you can roll it up into a tube if you wanted to.

https://www.amazon.com/Set-Shop-Joes-Sticky-Stuff/dp/B00EECHMC4

This tape is similar to the adhesive that is used on command hooks. It is quite strong but can be removed from a wall without damaging the paint. Not cheap but a little goes a long way. Popular on movie sets.

I haven't tried moleskin, but I love this stick on suede. It's not $2 but it's not $30 either if you have prime.

Scotty Peelers are amazing! I bought some of them specifically for removing stickers from Gamestop cases after I bought them after I got tired of peeling them off by hand, having sticky residue left behind, then having my game cases stick together in the shelf.

Any small amount of residue left behind can easily be wiped away with Goo Gone and a washcloth.

These are the ones I use. They are PERFECT. Just barely clear the base so it dont rock. Got the link from a past reddit thread.

Thats what I was thinking. Do you think this would work? 2mm seems like its the perfect thickness, though it's double sided and I'd only use a single side.

Bring headphones (I listened to audio books). Make sure each team member has their regular department, and have a sign off so u know who did what and that it was finished without hunting them down. Plan your path through the department. With the paper tags u have to tear learn the order and tear them b4 u go out so u have a stack and dont have to tear as you go. When putting out tags do one type at a time, i.e. I started with peg hook tags - square tags - rectangle - etc. This is so u aren't switching between piles or searching. Other than all that just learn to go into zombie mode and it will fly by. You can try a tool like the "Scotty Peeler" if your having issues getting the tags off. I normally put the peg labels on lightly so they peel easy and for things that I know change every week I put a little hanging over so I can tear and go (some leaders dont like this). (back to keeping to your assigned departments) (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068QIQVA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jiqUBb33F55WF)

HERE is a pretty good option. When I worked at a frame shop, people would come in with their cross-stitch and we would use self-adhesive boards like this. If I were you, I would find a self-adhesive board that is approx 1" smaller than your paper, so the edges of the paper would still show. Alternatively, you could just custom cut a piece of foam core and use white glue.

I hate that as well, for me if I rush it I end up messing it up so I go slow with good results. If you can get a perfect can and or catch lid out of a roll just use that one. There is also stuff like this https://www.amazon.com/Scotty-Peelers-Label-Sticker-Remover/dp/B0068QIQVA

Here is my solution to this problem - puma shoes with DIY suede stickers from amazon.
front
back with suede sticker
suede sticker from amazon
Hope this helps!

I'm looking for adhesive silicone strips - basically continuous versions of these (https://www.amazon.com/Self-adhesive-Clear-Rubber-Feet-Bumpons/dp/B001JASGH4). Ideally corner orientated pieces too. 3~5mm width, anything wider would probaly look weird.

I need them as 'surround feet' for a box.

TIA for any pointers

I just got 3m double sided tape...Works fantastic. My original one and replacement both fell out. Not hard to fix.

Are you starting at 370? I like to do two sessions at 340, then raise it by about 5 for each session. Stopping at around 385. I get niiiiice and faded. Get great flavor at those lower temps.


Also, that screen is blindingly bright. I got some kink tape and cut a small piece to cover the screen so I can still see it.

this stuff

What I would do is lay out some newspapers, and tape a blue masking tape "handle" to one side of the face of the lenticular art, then spray some spray adhesive (something like this but they also sell stuff that's repositionable: Elmers Multi-Purpose Spray Adhesive, 4-Ounce, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00178ORYY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ChnjzbK50ENV3), then pick it up by the blue tape "handle" and carefully position it on the box.

This stuff is ideal for applications like these.
SUGRU

If you're after a cheap and dirty fix:

1. Camera tether stuck to top of headlamp https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sametop-Adhesive-Tethers-Compatible-Session/dp/B01BTRTFH6/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=camera+tether&qid=1571435406&sr=8-8
   
2. Sugru around the edge of the tether to reinforce the bond https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sugru-Mouldable-Glue-Original-Formula/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=sugru+black&qid=1571435550&sr=8-6
   
3. Strong zip tie through the tether and around the middle section of the handlebars, it's then supported above and by the original mount.
   
   Got the idea from this video (which explains it a bit better): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZ2LPpbiZXc

I get these, but there are better ones! Namely anything with 3M on them.

I used Tenacious Tape on a down jacket and its held up great.

http://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Tenacious-Fabric-Repair/dp/B005BLQTEE

Bumpons - They work great, they add weight, and are very reliable

http://www.amazon.com/Self-adhesive-Clear-Rubber-Feet-Bumpons/dp/B001JASGH4

I was recommended this stuff https://www.amazon.co.uk/McNett-Tenacious-Tape-Fabric-Repair/dp/B005BLQTEE/ref=pd_lpo_200_bs_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=JE4Y4RXE3TRKTR73BV46 by Mark from IR -- apparently it's pretty bomber.

Not quite, but here is something you could possibly go off of... :)

GoPro Hero 5 is only $250. Grab some Sugru and attach to the chin of your helmet.

You could certainly patch it with nylon and some sewing skills, but I would probably use gear repair tape for something minor like that.

https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Tenacious-Fabric-Repair/dp/B005BLQTEE

In order of my personal preference (though any would do the job):

3M Super 77

3M Spray Mount

3M General Purpose 45

Scotch Photo Mount

Elmer's E455

When I did crosstich years ago I would buy this sticky board thing to mount it. I'm talking over 20 years ago so I don't remember if that was its intended use or not.

It was thin but fairly sturdy, iy was sticky enough to hold for framing but it was forgiving if you needed to reposition your work.

Check in the framing department of your craft store.

Edit: sticky board

Pres-On Mounting Board, 11 by 14-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S9UTYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YswoDbS6NMD8Q

I put these rubber feet next to where the little plastic bumps on the bottom towards the back of the keyboard are: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JASGH4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1465585240&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=21KThbUYKEL&ref=plSrch

Fixed it immediately. You can also put them over the screw holes, but I prefer to leave those open for easy access to the innards.

Maybe this tape

https://www.amazon.com/Eco-Fused-Adhesive-Sticker-Phone-Repair/dp/B00BXYWXY8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549321426&sr=8-4&keywords=Electronics+adhesive

Or maybe this adhesive?

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Electronic-Grade-Silicone-Squeeze/dp/B07MKBBQTC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549321426&sr=8-3&keywords=Electronics+adhesive

I'm not an expert on this, just trying to help and maybe give you an idea.

Gore-Tex should work, I used one on a pair on snowboarding pants about 8 years ago and the patch is still holding strong through 5 or 6 washings. I don't see why it wouldn't work on a sleeping pad. I actually carry one in my repair kit out on the trail for a sleeping pad or rain jacket/pants haven't used it yet on those items but I know it worked damn well on my pants.

EDIT: Hmm, I think the gore-tex I linked and the Tenacious Tape are the same thing just under different names?

They look the same and both are made by gear aid, the gore-tex package says "Tenacious Tape". Now I'm curious, might have to do some tests.

Just use silicone self-fusing tape:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HWRO9MY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or use liquid tape:
https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-LTW-400-Liquid-4-Ounce/dp/B002CC05EA/ref=pd_sim_328_21?ie=UTF8&dpID=413CdGG5uqL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR82%2C160_&refRID=FY2E02TWCMGTEJPJYZ0K

or even Sugru (probably the best but most expensive option):
https://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Moldable-Glue-SBLK3-Black/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1465690927&sr=1-1&keywords=sugru

Oh no, there goes my paycheck. I can't pass up a good deal on washi. This is a really cool set that I use for detailed work. It's really thin so you can do some unique things with it. Sticks well, too! If it's on an outer envelope, I usually hide the ends under a stamp or sticker just to be safe.

This may be an easy fix for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Tenacious-Fabric-Repair/dp/B005BLQTEE/ref=pd_lpo_200_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=WD6WP7TXEVH39VR0D4WA

It is better to use this stuff, http://www.amazon.com/Eco-Fused-Adhesive-Sticker-Phone-Repair/dp/B00BXYWXY8

That is what was used in the first place. Remove the tape, place new, and compress.

Hey with all this craptastic fighting, why not use a hot glue gun to keep the VRM heatsinks down. Make sure you get the proper temperature glue, nothing is gonna melt that :)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01178RVI2/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_201_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5CV37MFGRBJZN9K25H4Z

I know you already have it off, but wanted to share for anyone else removing stickers. Scotty peeler was a life changer for me and boat stickers, and now any stickers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068QIQVA/

i think i got these



helps if you have a an xacto knife too

I like this, or they have adhesive ones.https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Mirror-Sheets-Cuttable-Plastic/dp/B01BU99K6E/ref=pd_sim_201_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7D9S28ZGY7YBZN1P0CPA

You might like these.
48 Rolls Washi Tape Set,Foil Gold Skinny Decorative Masking Washi Tapes,3MM Wide DIY Masking Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0782SBNBR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

like this

Consider giving this stuff a shot next time.

Here's an easy fix I've used on my HHKB that solved all my problems with it slipping around:

apply these rubber feet on the bottoms of your HHKB. You might be able to find cheaper ones at a hardware store.

Tenacious Tape may work well for this repair.

Also, do you find that your heels are slipping when you run? There has to be a reason for the premature material failure...

I would go with a phone adhesive tape https://www.amazon.com/Eco-Fused-Adhesive-Sticker-Phone-Repair/dp/B00BXYWXY8 It's a quick fix until you get a replacement, or you could apply a wet glue (specific for phone) if you want to use it more. In my experience, the tape will be fine for a while.

I'd try these, they work well for this type of thing.
https://www.amazon.com/Scotty-Peelers-Label-Sticker-Remover/dp/B0068QIQVA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495114588&sr=8-1&keywords=scotty+peeler

Take the glass out and use the sticker mirrors. You could also apply right over top if you want it done faster:

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Mirror-Sheets-Cuttable-Plastic/dp/B01BU99K6E/

Tenacious Tape is the industry standard for repairs in breathable fabric. Has worked well for me in the past, and unlike duct tape it is specifically made for use with technical fabrics.

I'm using these round ones I ordered on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JASGH4/

Just added one on each nut that holds the plates together.

I used an aerosol glue I got at a hardware store. Amazon also has it:

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-E452-Multi-Purpose-Adhesive-4-Ounce/dp/B00178ORYY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521941650&sr=8-1&keywords=elmers+multipurpose+spray+adhesive

Self-adhesive magnetic sheets - https://www.amazon.com/Craftopia-Magnetic-Adhesive-Anything-Flexible/dp/B071L97W57/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=self+adhesive+magnetic+sheets&qid=1570631945&sr=8-4

​

I use this stuff for many things. Not strong magnetism though. Depends on what you're after. For me weak magnetism is perfect.

How does it compare to Tenacious Tape? https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Tenacious-Fabric-Repair/dp/B005BLQTEE

You could probably use some of this stuff.

Eco-Fused Adhesive Sticker Tape for Use in Cell Phone Repair - 2mm Double Sided Tape - also including 1 Pair of Tweezers / Microfiber Cleaning Cloth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXYWXY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WNmJAbWCEV019

So it's $5 for two rolls or you could go on Amazon and get 48 rolls of 3mm washi tape for $7.79 or 24 Rolls of 15mm Washi Tape for $10.95

BRO
http://www.amazon.com/Scotty-Peeler-Label-Sticker-Removers/dp/B0068QIQVA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406151845&sr=8-1&keywords=scotty+peeler

or buy double sided sticky tape. these are the kind they use in phone nowadays https://www.amazon.com/Eco-Fused-Adhesive-Sticker-Phone-Repair/dp/B00BXYWXY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467497800&sr=8-1&keywords=cellphone+tape or go to a walmart/staples for these http://www.staples.com/Scotch-Double-Sided-Tape-with-Dispenser/product_SS940458

Get a set of these Scotty Peelers. For sticky residue you can use rubbing alcohol or Goo Gone. I've also seen people suggest lighter fluid or hairspray, although I've not personally used either.

You can polish the blade with mothers mag polish or somthing simular, and you can patch the handle with sugru

I use scotty peelers I had laying around. They were made to remove store price stickers. They have a thin sharp edge that really gets under the print. https://www.amazon.com/Scotty-Peelers-Label-Sticker-Remover/dp/B0068QIQVA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491591135&sr=8-2&keywords=sticker+remover

Not really, about $10 for a 3 pack or $20 for an 8 pack

https://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Mouldable-Glue-Original-Formula/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/

https://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Moldable-Glue-Original-Formula/dp/B00EU7DBNM/

The frayed wire is one of the standard use cases for this stuff.

I used these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071L97W57/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_wqQ6CbHTJMPA8

A blob of Sugru might do the job https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sugru-Mouldable-Glue-Original-Formula/dp/B01BFE0KNQ

This is what I used

I see, maybe try this: Adhesive Sticker Tape for Use in Cell Phone Repair - 2mm Tape - als... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BXYWXY8/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_72jfvb14M5AGV

What about Sugru?

Adhesive: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BXYWXY8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

And the bezel was 0050!

I just replaced my screen 2 days ago.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LF6IVC2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

and

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BXYWXY8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00


You will also need superglue.

When mounting to curvy helmets, just get some of this and do this.

https://amzn.com/B01BFE0KNQ

The problem is the water. They aren't meant to be filled with water. Otherwise, you would use something like this https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Tenacious-Repair-Fabric/dp/B005BLQTEE

Scotty Peeler is the god at removing price stickers. You will also need to use blow dryer/heat gun to activate the glue, whilst removing the tag. Check youtube for more info.

If there is some glue leftover (usually the case for old old tag) then you can try using googone or similar products.

absolutely. For most, Goo Gone and a rag will work. For very stuck on ones, I have a Wagner heat gun that I will blast it for a few seconds and it will lift right off.

Scotty Peelers are also a very useful tool for removing stickers.

https://www.amazon.com/Scotty-Peeler-Label-Sticker-Removers/dp/B0068QIQVA

I have a lot of leftover double-sided LCD screen tape, so I just used that. It comes off without any damage, fading, or residue after months of staying on the Joycon. I suspect you could probably use regular 3M double-sided tape without issue though.

Tenacious Tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Tenacious-Fabric-Repair/dp/B005BLQTEE

This stuff is just shy of magic. I repaired a tear on my snowshoes and 3 trips later its still holding.

Put a piece of tenacious tape on both sides going 1" past the tear. It will hold forever.

No burnt fingers

http://www.amazon.com/Scotty-Peeler-Label-Sticker-Removers/dp/B0068QIQVA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405034470&sr=8-1&keywords=scotty+peeler

Could this be it ccbetter Upgraded Mini Hot Melt Glue Gun with 30pcs Glue Sticks,Removable Anti-hot Cover Glue Gun Kit with Flexible Trigger for DIY Small Craft Projects & Sealing and Quick Daily Repairs 20-watt,Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01178RVI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Qd6WDbBSXJE6A

Sugru that shit back together! Cheaper than getting a new bong.

https://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Moldable-Glue-SBLK3-Black/dp/B01BFE0KNQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473193684&sr=8-3&keywords=sugru

Shit is fucking magic, I had a similar thing happen to an ash catcher.

http://i.imgur.com/fSZDR9S.jpg

Works great.

You don't "need" to put an adhesive, but if you don't, you risk dust getting beneath your lens and stuck onto the screen, which obviously isn't ideal.

I put 3mm double sided sticky tape. I used this one from Amazon.

You might be able to find a smaller roll of tape, but you really don't want to go more than 7mm IMO. I chose 3mm because I use it for other projects. I just put two tape pieces like this along every edge of the screen:

||

And definitely no glue unless you want to risk a runny mess and never take off your lens again.

I have obtained similar items when buying iphones and video game consoles. I can't recommend these particular ones, but the cords I have come in handy. First one is for the several different apple products, 2nd link is for ps2/ps3, wii and xbox 360. The particular one I have has an adapter for some older nintendo consoles.

https://www.amazon.com/Charger-Universal-Charging-Lighting-Samsung/dp/B01AK5AYIM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487358894&sr=8-2&keywords=multi+apple+cord

https://www.amazon.com/MADCATZ-MOV06155V-Universal-Component-Cable-1-8m/dp/B000IAPGIS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487358985&sr=8-2&keywords=universal+video+game+cord

This things pretty handy. Is it the device that's broken or are my batteries dead:
https://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-BAT-200-Battery-Tester/dp/B005G7SBY4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487359100&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=battery+tester&psc=1

scotty peeler

goo gone

barkeepers friend

magnifiying glass with light good for looking at little markings or tiny text

upc scanner