Reddit mentions: The best craft & hobby fabric

FYI: I sent you lots of amazon links as I am not sure where you live or if you have access to craft stores such as Hobby Lobby or Joann Fabrics. I know for certain that I have seen most of these items cheaper at the store than what I could find online.

1. Embroidery scissors. The good ones (I.e. generally not ones that come in sewing kits) are incredibly sharp and a must. They are used exclusively for cutting embroidery floss. They make some really pretty ones that come in all sorts of colors and patterns.
   
2. A hoop or two. I personally prefer the plastic ones as they are a bit more durable and good for multiple projects. I also don't typically display my finished work inside the hoop. If she plans on making wall hangings, I would go with the wooden ones. They are typically a bit cheaper when you buy them at a craft store (I believe I have seen them from between 1-3 USD.) They have a nicer finished look and isn't that big of a deal to buy a new one when you start on your next project. I would buy her two of the wooden ones in two different sizes (a 4 inch and 6 inch one)
   
3. a box for embroidery thread. this one on Amazon that I listed is nice since it also contains the bobbins as well. These boxes usually cost about 3 USD at the craft store and are great for holding all of your different colors of embroidery floss. they often have one larger compartment which is perfectly sized to hold needles and the embroidery scissors as well. The floss bobbins are great at keeping everything organized in the box as well.
   
4. about a yard of fabric. Muslin is generally pretty cheap. For a beginner, I might also suggest Aida cloth. It it woven in a way that there is a "grid" in the cloth which makes it easier to make straight lines. It is typically used for Cross Stitch but can be used for embroidery as well. The cloth is more expensive that the muslin, and I personally don't prefer the finished look of the fabric, but it makes it easy to make straight lines and practice stitches. Someone on here also mentioned buying Fabric quarters which is a great idea. They come in a whole bunch of designs, run around 2 USD a piece, and work pretty well for embroidery.
   
5. Needles. You don't need the golden eye ones like I have listed here. Just make sure that the package says it's for embroidery as the of the needle varies depending on the type.
   
6. Now here's the hardest part of the whole thing: Embroidery floss. Most stores offer DMC brand cotton floss by the skein for about 0.48 USD. The problem is that there are literally hundreds of different colors and picking out just a few might be a bit difficult. The sets that DMC does sell are a bit pricey and aren't often set up to give you a beginner's set of colors. You could however buy an off brand set of embroidery floss that does come in a nice variety of colors and is cheaper. However, I have found that a lot of these packs have low quality thread. It often can look dull when compared to DMC brand floss. (look how Satin-y this Flower looks with the more expensive floss!) I have also heard of some people say that the colors can run when they get washed. All that said, these packs are inexpensive and great for someone just starting with embroidery as there are so many colors to choose from. Its great when you are practicing or are not 100% sure of what you are going to make yet.
   
7. transfer pen: I bought a set of those Frixion Pens that someone else mentioned in this post and I love them. They are a bit pricey. I believe that I bought my set at Target for 6 bucks. It came with 5 different colors including pink and silver which work great on dark colored fabrics. These pens are used to plan out your design on your fabric before you embroider. These pens are special in that they disappear completely with heat (such as an iron). If you don't want to go that route, they also make Water soluble markers which serve the same purpose. They don't work quite as well in my opinion as they tend to erase themselves after a few hours/days. They have the advantage of being inexpensive and work fine for small projects.
   
   I hope that all of this helps. Good luck on the shopping. I know that whatever you end up getting her she will love.

Hi there folks,

• Leather - Alran Chevre Sully in black and green.
  
• Stitching - Sajou Fil au Chinois Lin Cable in Vert (Green) and Souris (Mouse, or a light grey). All 632 at 9SPI with #4 John James needles.
  
• Edges - FN2 heat crease, heat burnished edges with beeswax and paraffin.
  
  So following up on my previous post, A Tale of Two Wallets I was very lucky to have an order from a client that wanted two different BiFold wallets, both in chevre, and both with RFID blocking capability. So this project already had some new challenges but I decided to up the ante:
  
  
• I had to integrate RFID materials into the exterior panel so I needed to back and split that panel...
  
• Using the Landis, I was going to create a 1mm lined exterior panel but splitting the chevre to .5mm and backing them to each other.
  
• I decided I wanted the interior cash panel to be lined as well and opted to do a french binding. You can see Ian Atkinson do one in his video about different binding methods.
  
  The end result would be the kind of wallet I had been wanting to make for a very long time: completely lined, distinct features, still classic, and thin.
  
  The RFID capability was a new one to me. I hadn't had the request before but I had some guidance from a friend who is a private investigator along with some internet help. While it's really unneccesary to have RFID blocking in your wallet unless your credit cards have an RFID chip (which less than 1% of them do and you'd know it if it did) or a passport (which definitely has one), if you must have it you can embed RF or EMF shielding material within the exterior panel. He was quick to tell me that this will prevent most, but not all, RF signals. I chose a material called Argenmesh; it was highly rated and recommended by other blogs and sites.
  
  So a while ago I got a Landis 30 and I've been slowly getting it tuned in. Needing to have the RF material embedded made it even more necessary this time around. Thankfully the material was thin so I split the chevre down to .5mm, glued the RF fabric in, and then glued the whole panel together. It worked perfectly.
  
  I should have done a video of doing the french binding and I will in the future but this was my first time doing it and I didn't want to blow it because I was worrying about the camera (I took some pictures this time though). Basically went like this:
  
  
• Measure how much you want to see the binding at the top of the leather.
  
• Glue the pieces together grain to grain.
  
• Once you glue it down, stitch along the glued edge to attach the panel.
  
• Once sewn in, glue on the panel you are going to turn and, using a bone folder or other creasing tool, fold the panel over the edge.
  
• Crease along the fold to make sure it's even, and then make sure the fold has good smooth contact.
  
• Turn the corner, and then back the leather as normal, smoothing the glue as you go.
  
  Terrible descriptions, but please watch Ian's video. He does a much better job of explaining it.
  
  The other complication about the french binding is that the top is 4 times as thick as the usual interior panel so extra careful skiving had to happen. I chose to not stitch all the way to the edge, and then skive everything down to .7mm as usual at the edges.
  
  The rest of the construction went very smoothly, stitching was a breeze, and, most satisfyingly, the resulting wallet was the thinnest and most luxurious piece I have created yet. #goals
  
  I did take some videos this time:
  
  
• Finished BiFold in black chevre.
  
• Finished BiFold in green and black chevre.
  
• Heating edges with the fileteuse
  
• Final Buffing.
  
  Thank you for reading this far. Questions and comments welcome.

Here's an idea: get crafty! With arts and crafts, that is, where you're only limited by your imagination (and money and time too I suppose...)

Buy a generic back pack and decorate it with pins and patches and iron-ons and dangly doo-hickies all that you can make (or order online) yourself! Seriously, it doesn't take much to get one of those button-makers. It'll come in handy later when your little filly gets a bit older and runs for student council, amiright?

You can buy iron-on stuff at almost any large retailer or hobby/crafts store. Try something compatible with your home printer and see how that works.

Patches are a little bit more complicated but still within reach. You can design your own and have them created by companies over the internet. Most of them offer iron-on backing for a little extra, and it doesn't take much to add a little extra stitching for added security. Most of the time all you need is a vector image and those are easy enough to find. Typically you're limited to a 3" x 3" square. Another catch too is you'll probably have to order a half dozen or so, which is okay too if your daughter has friends to share with.

If you're feeling adventurous, try stencil-making! Buy those little blind-bag toys and attach key ring loops on them. Search the internet for toys and trinkets to hang off of the bag. These are all fun creative learning experiences that you can share together. This is also her back pack and it can be a canvass for self-expression. I haven't met a girl yet that didn't want to express herself. Buy her a good quality pack and it'll last a lot longer than any average plastic Wal-Mart bag. It might not be an official product, but when has that been an issue for this community? If you need help, well, that's what we're here for. She can invest a little bit of herself into making it and maybe she'll care about it all that much more (or maybe I'm just being sickeningly optimistic. It's just a back pack after all...)

If I've learned anything from the DIY Channel, it's that all you need is a hot glue gun and a heaping helping of ambition! Good times. Now get out there and make an awesome back pack and report back with pictures!

Links - A Pink Backpack. Start here and apply ponies.

Printable Fabic for Inkjet Printers

Custom Patches

The EZ POP Button Maker

edit: spelling...

I love this dish!

I'd love to be surprised, but if you aren't into that, this would also be nice!

Riced Cauliflower stir-fry

Serves 4ish

1/2 head of cauliflower

1 cup mushrooms

1 cup cooked chicken (Cubed or shredded)

3/4 onion

3or4 slices of bacon (Cooked and broken into pieces sized to your fancy)

1 pablano pepper

1tbs(at least) fish sauce

Dash (at least) of garlic salt

Dash (at least) of black pepper

Take the cauliflower and break it down using a processor until it is in pieces about as big as rice. I use a hand processor like this, and it's pretty easy to do.

Then I throw that in a big pan and do the same thing to the onion. Throw that in the pan too.

Do the same thing to the pablano. You can throw it in the pan now, or with the other ingredients later. It's really up to you on how you like your peppers cooked. hubs and I like them firmer, so we usually add them later.

OPTIONAL: Add some oil to the pan. Both cauliflower and onions are pretty moist, so if it's a nonstick pan, if you are stirring it a lot, you don't really need oil. If you want to turn on the heat and ignore the pan for a while add a tbs of oil to make sure nothing sticks or burns.

Heat on med heat until onions are see through ish.

Throw in sliced mushrooms (whatever size you like), pablano (if you haven't already), the meats, the fishsauce and spices. Stir a lot for another 5-10 minutes.

Eat.

Note: this is a stirfry, so you can really add whatever veggies you have on hand. We're pretty into using this for leftovers, or random small amounts of things that we couldn't make a whole meal out of. Zucchini is really good if cubed and thrown in.

note^2 : I use way more fish sauce than this - like 3 tablespoons. Something about fishsauce and cauliflower is amazing. I just feel like probably not everyone would be as into it as me and hubs are though.

I sent them through a chat, but I’ll resend them this way...
I would get the floss at Johanns, they also sell cute kits. As far as the rest of the supplies I’d go with Amazon because of your time limits. Look for needles by John James in a variety pack sized 5-9, fabric, look for I-Nee cotton, and hoops by Morgan. Amazon also has great light boxes for transferring patterns....
https://www.amazon.com/John-James-Needle-30-Assorted/dp/B001VJNOV6/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=john+james+needles&qid=1564833113&s=gateway&sprefix=john+j&sr=8-17

https://www.amazon.com/iNee-Cotton-Fabric-Embroidery-60-inch/dp/B07F171ZJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=cotton+fabric+by+the+yard+embroidery&qid=1564833223&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

These are great pens for transferring patterns and drawing designs onto fabric
https://www.amazon.com/Threaders-Erasable-Fabric-Pens-3pk-Black/dp/B072QDSB2G/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=threaders+erasable+fabric+pens&qid=1564833299&s=gateway&sprefix=threaders+era&sr=8-3

Hoops
https://www.amazon.com/Morgan-Products-Stand-Combo-Hoops/dp/B000YZ3YIQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=morgan+hoop&qid=1564833394&s=gateway&sprefix=morgan+hoop&sr=8-4
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Morgan-Quality-Products-Embroidery-Interlocking/dp/B07B7C9QWQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=morgan+hoop&qid=1564833481&s=gateway&sprefix=morgan+hoop&sr=8-13
For future reference I get most of my supplies from 123stitch.com or embroidery.com
Great fabric can be found off Etsy
Shops I like on Etsy for linen
CloudCraftShop Robert Kaufman Essex Linen Fat Quarter Bundle, Naturals
BidouillArtStock Linen embroidery fabric coupon
FineStitchStudio Embroidery Linen 'Graziano' - Fat quarter

Etsy has good kits,
https:\namastehandembroidery.com has great kits as well. I personally love thread painting. If that’s something you think she’d like to try, go with anything from
https://trishbembroidery.com or any of her books!
Also
https://berlinembroidery.com/product-category/hand-embroidery-kits/needle-painting-kits/

24. Wall Acoustic Panels: These are useful for reducing high frequency sounds from echoing around the room. Mostly of benefit to people hearing you over microphone, such as streamers. You're unlikely to notice while gaming, especially if wearing headphones. With that said, manufacturer sold wall foam pads aren't actually so great. This [DIY video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pABvTWSxOes)shows remarkably superior outcomes, plus they're way cheaper than proper acoustic foam panels. Of course, you may want to pretty them up, such as with some cheap [satin fabric](https://www.amazon.com/60-inches-Wide-Charmeuse-Costumes/dp/B07BP9XCDF/).
    
    
25. Room Sound Proofing/Deadening: Many confuse sound proofing and deadening, which is largely the fault of retailers switching between the terms and people buying products designed to do things they didn't think it would (e.g. "sound proofing curtains" is marketing bogus. There's no such thing. They are typically good for "deadening", however)! "Deadening" is for high frequency sounds, which acoustic panels (those black triangles/squares you often see on the walls of streamers) work great. Although you can accomplish far better results, for much less money, with a [simple and cheap DIY](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pABvTWSxOes)\- both of which are safe to home owners (no nails required). This should be beyond your needs for basic streaming or helping people hear you over microphone in-game. If you're getting way more specialized than this however, it's beyond my ability to cover, but you should start with videos likes [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPYt10zrclQ&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=18)to learn more. However, for low frequency (bass) sounds, this won't help, whatsoever. What you need is "proofing". This requires heavy, dense materials (e.g. fiberglass, brick, cement, glass, wood - all should be solid \[not hollow\]). It also helps to create layers (e.g. imagine a room within a room or how double-pane and triple-pane windows have layers), such that you have pockets of air. And, for both sound proofing and deadening, but especially for proofing, you need to remove air gaps. Air gaps can be common in a home (under/around door/windows, through ventilation or A/C system, fireplace, power outlets, etc). For doors and windows, acoustic sealent (e.g. [Green Glue Sealant](https://www.amazon.com/St-Gobain-GGSEALANT-28OZ-Noiseproofing-Sealant/dp/B00MGCRUD0/) \[also get a [cheap smooth rod style caulk gun](https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-3985-Half-Barrel-Caulk/dp/B0013YKMW8/)\]) and weather stripping (e.g. [Frost King Weather Strip Tape](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-1-1-4-in-x-7-16-in-x-10-ft-White-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R516WH/100119011)) will be the cheapest/effective path forward, but for those wanting to renovate, a solid core door and triple (or at least double) pane window should be your first step. For apartment dwellers, like me, you'll probably forego the bigger renovations. Start with the greenglue, then weather stripping, then (for windows) decide if you need to pay out more to fill-in a window. Fill-in, you say? Some create [DIY window inserts](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPiNN9Vn3uE&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=16), while others purchase the heaviest full-window covers they can find (e.g. [Acoustic Curtain](https://residential-acoustics.com/shop/soundproofing/acousticurtain/) \[to help visualize, here's a similar product's [installation video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyJQjWTLAQM)\]). Whichever path you go, if you're able to shine a line through one end and see it out the other, then you need to try again - sorry. **If anyone has a better solution, whose versed in sound"proofing" physics, I'd love to hear about it!** Ultimately, if your walls are loud, you're going to need to do some remodeling, like shown [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DATpOgogvxE&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=28). And for those trying to make extremely quiet room (e.g. playing instruments in your recording studio), then you'll need to go more in-depth. Here are two very well made descriptive videos: [First](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOIAPBA2pT8&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=7)and [second](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lV5RgcJTRSk&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=25)(not English, but animated video is very demonstrative). Also, for more ideas to soundproof doors, see [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4uIYIQ3w1s&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=26). You can learn the science behind window sound proofing [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7AQWcTLy3Xo&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=30), btw (if you've ever wondered how much better triple vs double vs single pane windows are, this will tell you in no uncertain terms). Also, for electrical boxes (e.g. power outlets), it's safer to use fire code rated "acoustic putty pads" (if you can access them from behind the wall).
    
    
26. Speakers: Most people don't know this, but some people get physically sick from a lot of bass. Sadly, I'm one of them (can't ever go to concerts). Speakers, for this reason, become a big question mark. Some terrific stereo speakers most might want to consider would be the [Klipsch R-41PM](https://www.klipsch.com/products/r-41pm-powered-speakers), however. **If anyone knows some minimal bass 2.0 speakers, I'd be quite grateful!** I'm also strongly considering [making my own speakers](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27zBr74NuKU). Otherwise, I plan to use my monitor's built-in speakers for Netflix / Youtube / non-communicative video games.

1. Cake or birthday related - For keeping my birthday suit clean
   
2. Simon Pegg - You've got red on you
   
3. A book you are eager to read - Anxiously awaiting its release
   
4. Eating Utensils - Emergency rations need no utensils!
   
5. Animal - Jacque Moosteau fits this!
   
6. Purple - Flameless Lavendar candle!
   
7. A game - I have a whole Tabletop list, but Catan will suffice
   
8. A guilty pleasure - Thai tea, yum
   
9. A Tool - Weights are a tool for a healthier me!
   
10. Something from your childhood - Darth vader sheet set... that I want... even though I'm 36.
    
11. An organizational item - Stackable pyrex dishes organize my food mess
    
12. Hobby - Yarn, for my crochet habit
    
13. Nerdy/ Geeky - I have a whole list, but this TARDIS Nyan cat shirt should suffice
    
14. Something Natural - Mmmm Good Earth tea
    
15. Green - Green lame for stripes for my Columbia shorts
    
16. Something you wear - Tap shoes! Again, for Columbia
    
17. Funny - This is funny if you've seen LOST
    
18. Beads, Bees or Beans - It's no longer available, but still on my list - this fabric reminds me of Bees!
    
19. Gardening - Mooquet came from the garden
    
20. Your absolute favorite item on your wish list no matter the price. - This is one small piece to a big Columbia puzzle for me, I can't wait until our October show!!
    
    Happy happy cake day!!!!
    
    I hope that this is what you'll be getting for yourself because mason jars are SUPER useful in tons of ways! :D

How To: interior cleaning and protecting

1. Inspect the interior for any problem spots. Any spilled drinks? Caked on mud anywhere?
   
2. Take note of the door jambs (picture 3). If your car is parked outside 24/7 like mine, you will have a ton of dirt build up in here.
   
3. Remove everything from the interior, including floor mats.
   
4. Give the mats a good shake (picture 6).
   
5. Wipe away what you can with a carpet brush (picture 8).
   
6. Vacuum up the rest (picture 10)
   
7. If need be, use a carpet cleaner (picture 11)
   
8. Let it sit and dab up when ready. When drying carpets and upholstery, you want to twist and blot up any liquid. Rubbing back and forth doesn’t do much of anything except grind in dirt (picture 13)
   
9. Using various vacuum attachments, suck up what you can (pictures 15, 16).
   
10. Protect the dash and inside panels with a UV blocking product (pictures 17, 18, 19, 20, 21). Doing so will prevent fading/cracking of the interior surfaces.
    
11. Clean up the door jambs with a microfiber and cleaner. I am using ONR diluted to QD strength. Depending on how dirty your car is, you may have to step it up to APC (pictures 22-25).
    
12. Clean up the inside part of the trim (picture 26)
    
13. To get behind the door hinges, I like to ‘needle’ the microfiber behind it. This way it picks up any dirt as it is pulled through (picture 28).
    
14. Continue to spot clean any further areas (picture 29).
    
15. To protect the carpets, use a water repelling product like 303 Fabric Guard (pictures 31-33).
    
16. Use one of those reachy-wand things to get the back window if it is far back. It’s a total PITA, but just be patient (pictures 34-36). Use a VERY LIGHT spritz of cleaner on the microfiber; otherwise you’ll make more work for yourself by creating streaks.
    
17. The interior of the windshield is also a bit of a pain. Do not spray window cleaner on the glass. Once again, spray it on the microfiber. Flip your hand upside down, and work in the opposite direction of which you worked on the exterior. Buff off as you did the exterior. To get the driver’s side, place your left knee on the passenger seat, and your left hand on the driver’s seat. Keeping your right hand upside down, repeat as you did the passenger side. Buff off and check for streaks (pictures 37-40).
    
18. Clean the rest of the interior windows on the doors.
    
19. To protect the inside door jambs, I like to use a spray sealant. Keeps them pretty clean, and I usually only have to use a light product like ONR to clean them (pictures 41, 42)
    
    Note I did not have any reason to use my steam cleaner this time. Here is my review of the steam cleaner I use.
    
    
    Products used:
    
    Peak microfibers from OTC places - I don't use anything 'nice' on the interior. Simple all purpose microfibers will suffice, unless cleaning the glass. Follow my guide from the exterior for those tips
    
    Vacuum - anything will be fine. There is no such thing as a 'car vacuum' or 'detailing vacuum'. Use one that has a variety of attachments to get in the nooks and is strong enough to suck up dirt. http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-14-Gal-Professional-Wet-Dry-Vac-WD1450/100081216 This is the one I have, though it was not featured in the guide as my dad was using it at the time.
    
    Adam's Total Interior Detailer
    
    Adam's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner
    
    Carpet Brush Anything stiff bristled will do
    
    303 Fabric Guard
    
    Lug Nut brush size 10
    
    The window wand thing can be found OTC
    
    NanoSkin NanoShock
    
    

Okay, I've always wanted to be an interior designer and I looooove putting colors together for rooms and of course if I was doing this for myself I would do purple, and grey or brown but you're of the male type so pale blue is a great wall color or something along the lines of this with this fantastic fabric for the curtains!

And this cute family tree would be awesome to help decorate my house, I am a picture fan without a doubt and have tons and tons of pictures of my family all over my house but nothing as cute or unique as this


Lets change those curtains :)

Both those pieces are great, even the first one unfinished. A couple things I can think of to try that might help: maybe trace the edge of the felt with some kind of ravel stopper like this https://www.amazon.com/Dritz-674-Liquid-Sealant-0-75-Ounce/dp/B0019KBWA2 like maybe just put it on the cut edge, or a little way in on the under side of the fabric? It'll be hard to stitch through so a thin line to keep the edge clean but you'd kind of loop the stitch over it, if that makes sense?
Second, you might use a base fabric with a wider weave, like looser space between thread (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0771RF2QR though you can probably find something halfway between this and what you're showing in the second pic). Then you might try separating out the floss so you're only using 2 or three strands instead of all six, and use a smaller, VERY sharp needle (look for needs called 'sharps' these might be small but something like this https://www.amazon.com/Clover-Gold-Eye-Sharp-10/dp/B001K53MBS) . This will put a smaller, neater hole in the felt so there's less fraying. And the looser weave fabric means that even with paint you won't have to press as hard to get it through all the layers.
I hope some of this advice ends up useful. Good luck! I can't wait to see it finished.

Thanks! If you use a straight edge, get those lines drawn and then follow it with that straight edge and a nice sharp xacto blade yours will turn out great. Scissors are a little tougher. Good luck and let me know if I can help. This was the first time I’d used this stuff and it’s really the product more than the producer trust me haha. Here’s the link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRBNDW4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I'll run you down the materials, as it was thrown together really quick. Best part is I used no paint, heh. the white pieces are just that floppy EVA craft foam you get from a craft store with fake white leather from Amazon spray glued on. The gold pieces are the same craft foam with a layer of poster board spray glued on to offer more rigidity and a super flat surface, and the gold is gold spandex from Amazon cut into 2 inch strips places 1.75 inches apart, so they overlap using the same spray glue. I used the same fake white leather and foam backer rod from home depot to make the trim. I secured the trim with staples and then hot glued everything else together. The chest and back plates of the top pieces had to be thicker and more rigid, so I used those EVA foam floor mats you get online or at home depot with some Velcro to make it removable for transport (everything folds well and flat packs). I used hot glue and Velcro to secure the bottom gold pieces as well as make them removable. I also hot glued and duct taped some magnets behind the front and back plates of the shoulder part as well as the back of the best pieces on both sides. This makes the shoulder part snap in securely and hold position. The materials cost is very cheap. Getting magnets, velcro, and hot glue is easy, so I'll post the other materials links here for ya. I highly recommend you get a rotary cutter, cutting pad, and one of those big square rulers from Walmart to save you a ton of time.

Gold Spandex

Foam Mats

Spray Glue

Fake White Leather

Craft Foam

Gentle rant here.

Eucalan is well-regarded, effective, and smells nice.
A search reveals that it's made of ammonium lauryl sulphate, a number of thickeners, a foaming agent, some essential oils, and lanolin.

Orvus is well-regarded in the quilting world. It does a nice job of cleaning quilts with wool batting. It's also used for washing sheep and horses. Sheep = yarn, right?
It's pure sodium lauryl sulphate

Ammonium lauryl sulfate is derived from vegetable byproducts.
Sodium lauryl sulfate is derived from petroleum byproducts.

They are both surfectants, chemically the same in what they do -- they mess with the surface tension of water so that it will actually go into and wet the fibers.
The only difference is that ALS looks clear and will dissolve at lower temperatures; SLS is cloudy and needs warmer water.

Eucalan is $10.25 for 16 ounces from Amazon
Orvus is $9.00 for 8 ounces, same source

And Orvus concentrated horse-paste from the farm/feed store? ~Twenty bucks for seven pounds.


I have no problem with either Eucalan or Orvus, they work fine and it's really not that much to spend if you're not using it too often and the bottles look nice on your shelf.

But I'm the sheer-bloodyminded type, so I traded a warm muffin for a scoop of Orvus paste from my friend with a farm. When I want to use it I put a little in an old mustard jar and shake it good with warm water. That takes care of the foaming agents. I know what's in there and I know it works so I don't care about thickeners to convince me it's concentrated, and I can pour carefully even if it's runny.

I have a jar of lanolin from the co-op for lubricating dry skin in the winter, it cost a couple of bucks years ago and never goes bad. A little of that goes in the rinse water, along with a drop of essential oil for a nice scent. I've got eucalyptus in the house for clearing sinuses, and lemon and lavender. I pick whichever smell matches my mood or the personality of the giftee.

The thing you have to watch with home washing is the AGITATION. No soap or detergent will save you from felting a feltable yarn if you put it in the water and squish it around for a half hour. Use whatever you like, but be GENTLE, use plenty of water, and LIFT the item up and out of the water after it's done soaking enough.


(No offense, OP, but I did a thorough search on your LeBlanc and couldn't find a list of ingredients anywhere -- which means it's probably a very similar formulation. We all have our little indulgences and if their packaging or scent makes you happy, God bless -- but I get REALLY suspicious of anything online that won't tell me the details.)

Color combo: slate grey and yellow
[this is my first choice, the yellow is a little more dull, though, atleast based on the scan](http://www.amazon.com/Fabric-Upholstery-Coral-Yellow-Gray/dp/B005VQ58WS/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1372039298&sr=1-1&keywords=yellow+upholstery+fabric

However...I also think this print is really cool for a manly room

and as far as my wishlist item...
this isn't so much to decorate because I don't have a pillow case for it yet but...I think it would classify?

Let's change out those curtains! Thanks for the contest :) I enjoy this kind of stuff A LOT :) haha good luck with painting!

I created mine by getting one of these:

http://www.target.com/p/elmers-trifold-corrugate-project-display-board-28x40/-/A-15058100?sid=1347S&ref=tgt_adv_XS000000&AFID=google_pla_df&CPNG=PLA_Seasonal+Shopping_Local&adgroup=SC_Seasonal&LID=700000001170770pgs&network=g&device=c&location=9025455&lsft=gclid:COKZq4D-0ckCFY0XHwodI5MGYA,gclsrc:aw.ds&gclid=COKZq4D-0ckCFY0XHwodI5MGYA&gclsrc=aw.ds

then getting some black microsuade (grips the ship bases REALLY well and looks slick):

http://www.amazon.com/Suede-Microsuede-Upholstery-Fabric-Black-Passion/dp/B008G3HBI2

then using some spray adhesive I attached the suade to the posterboard, then taped it around on the back for extra strength. Since the board is 4"x3", i made a 6" boarder trim along either side with some other fabric, great for putting out cards and all. And the whole thing folds up and is super lightweight. Been using it for about 6 months now and its still doing great!

http://i.imgur.com/mz2QvdFh.jpg

Of course! All those canvases usually say they are “primed” which means gessoed HOWEVERRRRR once you do it yourself you’re gonna be like “what are they even talking about this canvas isn’t prepped at all” lmao. I was shook in college when I learned all this stuff. A good one is Liquitex gesso. You can honestly just buy the gallon of it if you end up liking it. It’ll last foreverrrrr

Gesso: Liquitex Professional White Gesso Surface Prep Medium, 32-oz (5332) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KNPLXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6OUBCbYGG08ZG

Brushes: Value-Pack 10-Pc Foam Paint Brush Set - Wood Handles by Industrial Tools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UHJDAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WPUBCb9GYJ791

Sand paper: Sanding Sponge,Coarse/Medium/Fine/Superfine 4 Different Specifications Sanding Blocks Assortment,Washable and Reusable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752VGHG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rQUBCbQ2295YF

And then eventualllllllyyyyy, way off in the future:

Stanley Hand Tools 20-600 Clamping Miter Box & Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0791J472B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uUUBCbAX7GEM0

Stanley TR45K Light Duty Staple Gun Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NIFL80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xVUBCb1HTF3N9

Art Alternatives Canvas Pliers 8in https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MASEW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9XUBCbJF0J5ZC

Nasco 1100424 Fine Arts Unprimed Cotton Canvas Roll, 6 yds x 62" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EJSJKFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hZUBCb3PN5W7Y

Also, occasionally I like to go to a thrift store, find a wacky printed dress or dress shirt, and stretch that over a wood frame. For that, or if you paint on wood, you can use clear gesso (my personal favvyyyyy as I almost always paint on wood and looooove wood grain to be incorporated into my paintings...or on canvas stretched over wooden boards)

If you just want a cheap yet cute way to keep them from rubbing together I recommend going to your local Joann fabrics and looking. You can normally find a fabric like this (called tulle), for really cheap. You can cut it into little squares and tie the top off with a ribbon :) and it’s thin so you can still see the pin. It won’t protect it as much as the plastic bags however so it really comes down to preference.

I actually checked amazon and you can find it for super cheap!

A couple years ago for Christmas, I made my mother-in-law Celine Dion undies.

I just got a package of cotton briefs (Ew. the reconnaissance for this gift involved talking to my FIL about the type of panties she wore. Aw-kward.) Then I got printable iron-on transfer sheets, and printed out the images I wanted. I did a couple in photoshop, with the text tool as well. ("My Fart Will Go On," terrible, I know.)

The stuff that I used, on Amazon I found that if you get it a little hotter than they say, it actually kind of fuses into the fabric.

I was so worried that she wouldn't think they were funny, (she's an attorney and pretty conservative) but thankfully, she found them hysterical.

Good luck!

If you know how to sew and have access to a sewing machine you can make some great restraints with nylon web and steel D rings. If you cant find a local shop to buy your supplies you should be able to get it all on amazon.

Here's what I used to make my own:

At least 64 inches of 2-inch nylon webbing
https://www.amazon.com/Country-Brook-Design%C2%AE-Polypro-Webbing/dp/B003K2BNR4

2-inch steel D rings - 4 of those
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002I03QT2/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473861931&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=2%22+steel+d+ring&dpPl=1&dpID=41eLENuUUQL&ref=plSrch

2-inch sew-on velcro.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D8MPRWC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473862024&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=2%22+sew+on+velcro&dpPl=1&dpID=51jblEDy80L&ref=plSrch

Felt fabric
https://www.amazon.com/100%25-ACRYLIC-FELT-1281-72-WD/dp/B001THXM6C/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1473863302&sr=8-9&keywords=felt+fabric

1. Measure the circumference of your wrists and add 3.5 inches for the restraint to overlap and about 1 inch at either end for the hem. That will total up to something like 12 inches per restraint.
   
2. Cut 4 more pieces of nylon at 4 inch lengths. This will be used to reinforce the D-ring on the inside of the webb.
   
3. Cut 4 pieces of both parts of the Velcro. You’ll end up with 8 total pieces, 4 hook, 4 loop
   
4. Cut 4 pieces of felt – 2in X 7.5in to fit to the inside of the restraint. Padding for your victim.
   
   Put it all together
   
   
5. Hem the webbing or it will unravel. Fold the extra inch at either end of the web and sew it down for your hem.
   
6. Add the Velcro at pieces at either end and sew it down. Make sure to test wrap it around your wrist to make sure the Velcro orients right (don’t put both pieces on the same side of the webbing).
   
7. Slide the webbing through the D ring and position it at about the center of the webbing.
   
8. Set your 4 inch piece of web on top of the flat part of the D-ring and sew it into place. This part holds the ring so it wont move around inside the restraint.
   
9. Place your felt on the inside of the restraint and sew it into place.
   
   Hopefully the instructions are clear enough. Here’s what I posted when I made my own set.
   https://www.reddit.com/r/BDSMcommunity/comments/4vc902/diy_bondage_on_the_cheep/
   The red pull tab in the pictures wasn’t in the instructions above because I didn’t want to overcomplicate things.
   All together I spent about $24.00, but I bought all that locally.
   
   Feel free to ask any questions.
   

An even better idea is to return the canvas and get a layer of this white over this black, according to the wizards over at http://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/

I was able to find a very similar- 80% nylon, 20% spandex, matte, 4 way stretch, milliskin fabric over on amazon because i have a gift card here and here.

This will give you an acoustically transparent screen with great contrast and not see through.

That's great! I recently bought some fabric printer paper like this so that I can print my own labels. You can also buy a fixative to "make your own" printer fabric.

Or you could always support an Etsy seller and have them print them for you, like devilsfoodadvocate said.

I purchased this roll of black felt that covers my dining table whenever we play a game. It's cheap, portable, and makes photography nice if I ever want to take a picture of a pretty game. I've had it for a year and a half now, and it's still holding up just fine.

Ahh, I see. I usually store mine in my bag and not my pocket. I typically go wax if I need more stealthier since the pax can get pretty stinky. I'm lucky to have a good connection in a state without dispensaries.

You may want to try some stick on felt and cut it down to a small slip or two. Try the fit with one and see if it rattles, if so put one more on the other side. That might help.

That's actually an interesting and convenient idea. Could theoretically just pick up some shielding fabric online and replace the pockets of your clothing. Experimenting with other products on the market such as a pouch of shielding material, they tend to be a bit inconvenient for every day use. Having a pocket that does this by default would be a bit more useful.

The main downside is that when the phone is placed within a faraday cage constructed of shielding material, it burns battery power trying to connect to the network. Need to flip the phone into airplane mode to stop this process.

It would be nice to have some additional configuration access to how the phone connects to cellphone towers. Limit frequency of the check-ins when out of range in order to prevent burning through battery power. Possibly best suited for jailbroken phones.

In response to the claim that the "throne idea" is not available:

• Spray paint is cheap as hell.
  
  
• So is wood.
  
  
• Canvas is slightly more expensive but not too much.
  
  
• Nails/staples are cheap and I'm sure you could find someone with a hammer.
  
  You're gonna have to get creative but that kind of thing is totally possible.

What did you use for the bottom? I was looking at something like this for my stick. Velvet (Black) fabric sticky Back, A4 sheet (8.27" x 11.69"), self-adhesive, durable and water resistant, multi-purpose, more than 24 different colors, ideal for art & craft making, 2 sheets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0YAYT3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HPHOzbZHN5A9R

It's basically stick on velvet.

You can actually buy 'printable fabric'. It's a thin sheet of cotton stuck to a 8.5x11 piece of paper. You print out whatever you want and then peel the fabric off the backing (I don't know how it's attached but the fabric isn't sticky afterward). I've also seen silk, and I've seen it come in rolls if you want something longer than 11 inches. I've used both in the past (cotton and silk), and the lines come out nice and crisp. I got mine at Jo-anns. Here's the stuff that comes in a roll.

Start making and selling EM-blocking clothes - different fashion lines for different wavelengths - and pair them some of that sweet cyberpunk facial-recognition-fooling makeup!

We went to a uniform supply store and bought scrubs. Then used some iron on transfers, like this

We also made a few totes that day for each station.

Not OP, but I'm decorating my gazebo with $20 of tulle from Amazon and $7 ribbon from Costco. Here's a picture of my gazebo with a similar look to what I'm going for.

This is fabric off amazon! iNee 100% Cotton Fabric for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F171ZJY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I found some gold plated playing cards that might be just the right size!

On a more serious note though, I have been looking at this: ArgenMesh Silver Fabric

59" wide and $18.99 by the foot. I might just get my self some once I run out of aluminum.

what is the fabric requirements for it to be acoustically transparent?

would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Milliskin-Spandex-Fabric-Stretch-Colors/dp/B0767NVCVZ/ref=cm_wl_huc_item

You can also buy these!

Then, just print with a black background and attach it to a black pillow!

Maybe this is what you need?
Avery Printable Fabric for Inkjet Printers, 8.5 x 11 Inches, Pack of 5 (03384) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000C0CJZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Wv64BbWN7PX94

They make printable fabric http://www.amazon.com/Avery-Printable-Fabric-Printers-03384/dp/B0000C0CJZ

This is different from the iron stuff. It's actual fabric.

Or more conveniently, maybe line your pockets with conductive shielding fabric and have a portable faraday cage when on the go. Minimize risk of the phone sitting out there passively waiting to have data harvested. Then just deal with the inconvenience of not getting calls/texts in real-time, and that battery drain as the phone keeps looking for a transmitter to connect to (airplane mode to get it to stop looking).