Reddit mentions: The best crimpers

Cable Technician Here: Make sure that when pre-wiring a house, you consider WHERE the equipment is going and WHAT equipment is going where.

Cable Television will for the forseeable future always require dedicated lines, installing a home director's panel is highly advisable.

Also, When choosing coaxial cable, I'll go ahead and tell you some of the best stuff to go with is either Perfect-Flex or Commscope Coaxial cable.

This Stuff Here Is awesome, because it has good shielding, AND it's cross compatible with Satellite and Cable Television. The big thing you're looking for is it's capable of doing 3Ghz frequencies. Cable televsion only uses 5-860Mhz as a standard right now, but Satellite uses freq. as high as 2.85Ghz.

Alongside the equipment itself, you're going to want the proper end connectors, for that, leave that to TWC. Essentially after you run the wiring TWC will do ALL the connectorization for you. If you do want to do it yourself...

You'll Need a Compression Tool, a Cable Prep Tool and Fittings.

Splitting, you want to do the Home run for this reason. All footage matters greatly, its easiest to get the best splitting, and most equal distrobution through your house by using a smart panel. Preferably located as close to the Electrial Meter (because your Feed line must be close to power for grounding) as possible.

Aside from that, I'd be glad to help if you wanted to drop a pm to me sometime, I can assist with all aspects of your setup. I just enjoy doing cable work, and would love to help.

>the display shows me that it actually is pulling 1300W instead of the 1000W this set is supposed to-not sure the battery likes that lol

This is normal. Motors are rated based on continuous output. But traction motors are not used continuously, instead the power comes in shorter bursts. So you can push more power through them then their rating and still be fine.

The real limitation on motors is heat, not wattage. This is why statorade is a nice upgrade for DD hub motors. Keeps them cooler for longer. Allows the user to push more more torque and better hill climbing performance.

>fucking. spare.air.tire nothing ...now smooth riding with the stock chinesium tire that was laying around (still no spare nothing) löl :)

First upgrade: Toolbag with spare innertube, patches, and hand tools. A bicycle multitool is cheap. Throw in there a adjustable wrench for the bolts on the rear tire and you are golden.

I like the type that fit on the top tube just behind the handle bars. They have ones that will allow you to put your phone into a water proof pouch. Pretty handy if you like to use it for navigation and tunes.

​

>light is a bit of a problem...need more for winter season on trail...for streets this Lifebee is ok

Second upgrade: Get a super bright light for trails and keep your Lifebee for streets so you don't go around accidentally blinding people. :)

​

>the grips-handle whatever you call them are stinking like fucking filthy plastic trash!!1

Third upgrade: Switch over to a thumb throttle (if you don't already have one) and get those big fluffy foam handles.

Either that or wear gloves. :P

>have to switch to new bike grips and thought about diy fumbling my own thumb gas out of the rock shock compression lever ?! would ne nice and undercover :)

They have a very nice 'low profile thumb throttle' that I like a lot. It's pretty stealthy and can be used on either side of the bike.

https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/throttles/t-lever.html

https://www.amazon.com/Throttle-Handlebar-Control-Electric-Scooter/dp/B0773H9QDL

I don't know if that is a good one or not or if there is any real differences between these other then price. I don't have one, but my next one will be one of those.

>anyone ever done something like this ?

I have swapped throttles. It can be a bit of a chore to keep track of the wiring since each kit is always a bit different and there isn't any real standardization. It helps a lot to write down on a piece of paper what each wire does what and take pictures clear before making any changes.

On most of the things I upgraded on my cheap kit I ended up cutting off the original connections and replacing them with my own.

Used this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AVVO7K

with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074LVGVTY/

to make these:

https://www.ebikes.ca/learn/connectors.html#jstsm

But there are probably easier ways to do it.

First of all, does the wall plate in your office have just 1 phone line? 2 or all 4?

All 4 would be ideal, but you need at least 2 for this to work because Ethernet needs at least 2 pairs of wires.

Also if you only have 2 pairs of wires then you'll only get 100Mbit Ethernet. Gigabit Ethernet requires all 4 pairs.

This job would be made easier with a Tone & Probe kit (also known as a Toner). Simply plug the tone generator into the phone jack in your office, then go down to the basement with the probe and use it to identify the correct pair of wires.



Once you identify the pair of wires, you're going to have to remove all 4 pairs of wires (BlueWhite/Blue, OrangeWhite/Orange, GreenWhite/Green, BrownWhite/Brown) from the patch panel (the thing you showed in the picture)

It looks like you've got plenty of wire there to work with. Instead of crimping an RJ-45 plug directly on to the wire (and definitely DO NOT just twist the wires together), I would recommend punching the wire down to a surface-mount RJ-45 jack like this one.

You'll need a punchdown tool like this

As far as the jack in the office, You'll need to replace that too. You'll probably need to replace the wall plate as well.

Edit to make more clear

Only IF you have only 2 pairs of wires in the office

Then punching down the RJ45 jacks is a bit trickier. You still follow the [TIA-568B standard] (http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/ethernetcables.html) but you leave the Blue and Brown wires out (Pins 4,5,7 and 8).

It's going to be a bit confusing because the colors of the wires won't necessarily match the chart. Just make sure that you punch down each end of the cable the same way. Remember, you'll only be punching down pins 1,2,3 and 6.

Hope that helps. Good luck! :)

You can use the cheap plastic covered terminals, but be sure to cut and ripoff the plastic shit first. Makes for an easier crimp and you can actually see the work you just did. I do use them from time to time as they are cheap as dirt. If you need them insulated just use some heatshrink after.

For insulated and non insulated butt connectors:

Klein 1005

And
These will work too (especially for spade and ring terminals), but not for insulated splices. They will also do a range of other automotive specific as well.


There is a molex tool that does insulated splices well too
-----

For most automotive terminals, especially small ones like for ECU connectors or sensor connections-

hozan p-707
----
For deutsch solid terminals

hdt-48-00
-----

For all crimping, it is best to get someone to teach you how as it's easy to destroy your first crimps by over doing it. Definitely good to practice too. Also very easy to not put enough force into the tool, and your wire will pull out. Also Just as easy to incorrectly size the jaws or dies having the same effect as under or over crimping. The same goes for terminals, many have few wire sizes they are designed for and will only accept.



My recommendation, get the p-707 if you're doing more than 2-5 vehicles of wiring sensors and ECU's. P-706 if you're on a budget and/or need a few more size jaws. Get the Klein 1005 for your butt splices. Between those two tools (Klein and hozan) you can pretty much do 95-99% of the crimps you need for a harness, cars specifically. You might need a few different tools for battery lugs and other big power connections.

Damn I didn't see the second and third pictures duh! So if you use that panel I showed you from amazon (or one like it, there's a lot of wires there) this may be a better choice.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Wallmount-Compatible-TC-P24C6/dp/B0000AZK72/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=patch+panel+wall+mount&qid=1550278079&s=gateway&sr=8-7

This panel will work with cat5 or cat6, I can't tell what type of wiring you have there but you'll need that

You'll also need some way to mount it on the wall, I used one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Hinged-Bracket-N060-004/dp/B000E887XU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=patch+panel+wall+mount&qid=1550278079&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Now with the patch panel, you don't need to put ends on the wire. You use a punch down tool and they go into little clip type things. It makes more sense if you look at the pictures. Here is a punch down tool:

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=punch+down+tool&qid=1550278185&s=gateway&sr=8-5

you're gonna need some patch cables to run from the patch panel to a switch. You're also gonna need a switch down there to connect all the ethernet cables together.

To mount the switch, you're gonna need a rack mount (to look the nicest, and a 19" rack switch).

A nice mount I used is this: https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Vertical-Mountable-Server-Hardware/dp/B01M151AOJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=vertical+rack+mount&qid=1550278400&s=gateway&sr=8-4

and then a switch, something like this (which I picked more or less at random) https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-LGS124-Rackmount-Unmanaged-Enclosure/dp/B00H1OQBLA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rack+mount+switch&qid=1550278467&s=gateway&sr=8-3 will do the job quite well. It's a gigabit unamanaged switch. You can spend a lot more if you want to, but this will probably do the job.

So from there, you need a cable from switch to that box in the first picture with the ethernet ports on the back.

That will give you wired internet in the whole house. Adding access points from there is trivial.

I know it's a lot of information, feel free to ask anything.

Edit: That verizon box in picture 3 looks like it might be more than just a modem, it might be a modem/router. If that's the case you can plug that into the switch. But if it's just a modem, that won't work even tho the ethernet port will physically connect. The best way to tell is that if it only has one ethernet port, then it's just a modem, if it has more than 1 then it's a modem/router.

Hey all!

First off: THANK YOU!! Thank you to all of you for your profound interest in the project and all the questions! I enjoy sharing any and all information I can :) and thank you for my FIRST Reddit Gold Award! I never would have thought this would merit such an awesome distinction!

I've received a number of queries about how it was put together, different functions, the construction, programming, etc... so I will definitely be putting together a detailed break-down so that anyone interested can follow along and hopefully be inspired to create their own crazy mirror setup!!! Keep an eye out here for that! I'm hoping no later than tomorrow evening but it could be done before or after that. Stay tuned!


Edit: Here is what I have so far for you all!


- Materials

o Raspberry Pi 3 b+ - https://www.amazon.com/LoveRPi-Raspberry-Quick-Raspbian-Desktop/dp/B07JR3M7FY

o Raspberry Pi fan - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076H3TKBP/

o Breakout board (testing purposes) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KZY5P6

o USB 5V 3.5A Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L88M8TE

o 64GB microSD card - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCMBLV6

o USB Microphone - https://www.adafruit.com/product/3367

o USB Extension Cord – https://www.adafruit.com/product/993

o USB keyboard/mouse combo – https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SW719NZ

o Raspberry Pi V2 Camera – https://www.adafruit.com/product/3099

o V2 Camera extended cable – https://www.adafruit.com/product/1730

o 4 ohm impedance speakers – https://www.adafruit.com/product/1669

o Speaker Amplifier – https://www.adafruit.com/product/987

o Stereo aux cable - https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YMM-261-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O5H

o PIR-Motion-Sensor – https://www.adafruit.com/product/189

o Speaker mesh – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HMBKNSS/

o Magnets – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SGKY3C/

o Drawer Handle – https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-Classic-Edge-5-1-16-in-128mm-Center-to-Center-Matte-Black-Drawer-Pull-P34928C-FB-CP/303135233

o Monitor, 28”

o Mirror – https://www.twowaymirrors.com/acrylic/

o 18-22 AWG wire

o Wire Connector Kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0774NMT1S

o HDX 6’ Extension Cord w/ ground plug - https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-6-ft-16-3-Indoor-Tight-Space-Cube-Tap-Extension-Cord-White-HD-158-007/202521667



o Lumber/Construction Material:

§ 2”x6” lumber (~200” long) (main frame/wall mounting)

§ 1”x6” lumber (8 ft long) (shelves)

§ 2”x2” lumber (8 ft long) (rear frame border)

§ Red Oak Veneer – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B1AR6E

§ Frame – https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weaber-WM-390-9-16-in-x-2-5-8-in-Oak-Chair-Rail-Moulding-73978/205923275

§ 1/8” MDF 2’x4’

§ 1/4” or 3/8” sandwich particle board, 2’x4’

o Construction Hardware:

§ Nails (for helping hold frame to wood while gluing)

§ Wood glue (secure frame)

§ Construction screws:

· #10 x 3.5” Construction Screws

· #8 x 2.5” Construction Screws

· Finishing nails

§ 3D printed pieces (custom 3D modeled and printed at home)

· Speaker/PIR/Microphone trim

· Camera trim/mount

· Speaker Amp/PIR/Microphone mount

· Speaker mount x2

· Pi mounting bracket


- Resources/References

o Raspbian Buster kernel – https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/

o Magic Mirror 2 – https://magicmirror.builders/

o Modules: https://github.com/MichMich/MagicMirror/wiki/3rd-party-modules

§ mmpm (Module Manager)

§ MMM-Face-Reco-DNN (Facial Recognition)

§ MMM-PIR-Sensor (Motion Sensor Functionality)

§ MMM-AssistantMk2 (Google Assistant)

§ MMM-connection-status (Network Connection Check)

§ MMM-pages (Multi-Page Support)

§ MMM-ProfileSwitcher (Multiple Profile Support via Facial Recognition)

§ MMM-SingleStock (Track one stock of choice [my case, Microsoft])

§ MMM-News (News rotating on a 10 second basis)

§ MMM-GoogleMapsTraffic (Traffic Map w/ pins at work locations)

§ MMM-Traffic (Commute time from home to places of employment)

§ MMM-Hotword (hotword detection used in conjunction with Google Assistant)

§ MMM-3Day-Forecast (3 Day forecast for home)

§ MMM-Weather-Now (Weather at work locations)

§ MMM-WatchDog (Watchdog application for lock-up protection)

§ planetrise (rising/setting of planets based on lat/long)

Personally, i'd opt for this instead of that tp-link plastic one. It's a few bucks more, but has a great track record.

http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-GS105NA-Prosafe-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347764&sr=1-3&keywords=5+port+gigabit

The CMR looks good, though monoprice wire is cheaper for the same quality (spend some of that difference on the metal 5 port gige switch I pointed out above):

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1000-Feet-500Mhz-Copper-Ethernet/dp/B008I8AJIY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347852&sr=1-1&keywords=monoprice+cat+6+cmr

I would also recommend against crimping your own cables. Solid core is not meant for crimping. Patch cables are super cheap, are certified for the speed, and in most cases save you time and money vs crimping your own.

Get this punchdown tool, it has both 110 and krohn. A lot of punchdowns are universal, and with those, the krohn works better.

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459348192&sr=1-1&keywords=trendnet+punch+down+tool

Source: I built this and wired my house to 1GigE

https://imgur.com/9vhZYS1

Can't really tell from this picture, but alot of times, it looks like ethernet, but it ends up not being terminated correctly, or setup for something like voice only or some other non-standard thing.

If it were me, I'd make a small investment in the following;

1. Some sort of cable tester - everyone has their favorite - look for one that can show you whether all the pairs are setup properly - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-LinkMaster-UTP-STP-Wiremapper-and-Tester-62-200/100091453
   
   If you are lucky, whomever setup that panel wired it correctly, and the runs will test out. If you are not lucky, you'll need to take the next step and fix it yourself. This will require some more stuff;
   
2. a standard punch-down panel - something like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067SC6/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bKkaDD_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=FGVJTXZ791HS9C3BHHBB&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=b40f1c79-82d3-5987-b1fd-b5c357ef4906&pf_rd_i=306629011
   
3. A punch-down tool - either a cheap one (https://www.amazon.com/CMPLE-Punch-Stripper-Voice-Cables/dp/B00NR2Z6MA/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982800&sr=1-5&keywords=punch+down+tool) or one that is a little more robust (https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982800&sr=1-3&keywords=punch+down+tool)
   
   There are many tutorials on the web on how to terminate Ethernet - essentially, you're going to need to make sure that the wires are terminated properly on the punch panel (in your living room) to the specifics on the keystone jack at the far end. Most likely, the jack at the far end looks something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Keystone-Ethernet-Compatible-Connector/dp/B014RAT7ZC/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982947&sr=1-6&keywords=keystone+jack
   
   If you get the connectivity right, and that cable has all the pairs (8), you should be able to connect, and be on the road.
   
   Not sure where you are located, but usually Fry's or MicroCenter is a good place to source these tools.
   
   Holler back if you need more info.

I had acceptable but less than ideal performance with WiFi too. I had range issues on 5 GHZ wireless N and interference issues on 2.4 N (which I couldn't really attribute to anything in particular - it's just a crowded frequency). My house isn't all that big either (1750 sq ft).

I ran Cat5E. It was pretty easy even though it was my first time. I just watched a couple YouTube videos on making Cat5E and bought a crimper, RJ45 connectors, and a big box of cable from Amazon (they have different sizes so just determine how much you would need). I ran and terminated speaker wire, coax for my antenna in the attic, and the networking cable all in one afternoon. If you're considering going that route I would encourage you to do it, it isn't difficult with a decent crimper. Just watch a couple people do it on YouTube and print out a wiring diagram when you're terminating the cables. Make a couple short practice cables before trying to terminate on the cable you ran in the attic.

Before my computer and router were at opposite sides of the house and I was getting speed tests of ~20 MBit down; now with the cable I get ~120 MBit down. I have an Asus router on each side of the house so wireless coverage is excellent as well.

>Personally, i'd opt for this instead of that tp-link plastic one. It's a few bucks more, but has a great track record.
http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-GS105NA-Prosafe-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347764&sr=1-3&keywords=5+port+gigabit

Same guts? I picked the plastic... cus Im cheap but mostly because I think the front ports look sloppy in a HT cabinet or on a desk.

>The CMR looks good, though monoprice wire is cheaper for the same quality (spend some of that difference on the metal 5 port gige switch I pointed out above):
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1000-Feet-500Mhz-Copper-Ethernet/dp/B008I8AJIY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347852&sr=1-1&keywords=monoprice+cat+6+cmr

Thanks! swapped for monoprice

>I would also recommend against crimping your own cables. Solid core is not meant for crimping.

ok then, I really wasn't looking forward to crimping a dozen cable but I felt like Ill have so much cat6 it would be a waste not to make my own.

>Get this punchdown tool, it has both 110 and krohn. A lot of punchdowns are universal, and with those, the krohn works better.
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459348192&sr=1-1&keywords=trendnet+punch+down+tool

So what your saying is most of these keytones labeled 110 will except a krohn style punch? Id like minimize my cost and the 110/66 punch I linked is basically in my hands, its still worth going with this other tool?

So should I bother with the crimper/rj45 ends at all? Just buy a pack of 3ft patch cables and be done with it?

>Source: I built this and wired my house to 1GigE
https://imgur.com/9vhZYS1

nice rack (giggity)

I would recommend Platinum tools for all networking gear. They really think this stuff through. The only other company that spends as much engineering hours re-inventing existing products to make the installers job easier is Siemon, but they charge you a lot for it.

These connectors + Strain Reliefs

With this crimper

With this separate stripper

That set will put your RJ-45 termination time to under 2 minutes with just a bit of practice, and under 1 minute after some experience. Even pros that have decades of experience wont be able to touch you with standard connectors.

Why separate stripper? If you terminate a lot, try the thing. All-in-one tools are garbage, you can't make 5 completely different tools work well in one tool, you have to sacrifice. When the separate tools cost a couple bucks, why make any sacrifices? I wish they made one of these for Cat6a, as I have yet to find a decent stripper for it.

Driver set

I would recommend this set, but maybe get it for yourself later as a gift. These cover the most used drivers, and they will outlast you. Stick to cheapos for rare ones unless you want to treat yourself. Wiha is the snap-on of electronics screwdrivers. Except without the payment plan.

Get yourself a cheapo kit for testing cable. All the cheap ones work just fine, as long as it tests the pairs you're generally set. You can even get one to test multiple runs at the same time, just takes a few short patch cables and oddly wired keystones, you can make those from spare parts. If you want something more substantial without spending money, get yourself a pockethernet.

I would stay away from Klein, they just invest quality of materials into age old designs. Yeah they'll last, but they really didn't think about it.

So according to that picture, if they wired it according to the color coding, it's 568A, so if you were to wire it up yourself, make sure the OnQ side is 568A as well to save yourself 50% of the work. But all depends if they did the blue, orange, green, brown pairs accordingly, which I'd assume they would to make their life easier.

If you were to get an 8 port Cat5E patch panel, you're going to need a punchdown tool in order to get the wires hooked up to said patch panel. It isn't hard by any means, and there are tons of videos on Youtube about terminating ethernet cables into rj45 jacks as well as onto patch panels. It isn't rocket science by any means, and depending on your comfort level and if you want to buy what you'd need (watch youtube videos first, maybe you'll find terminating rj45's directly to plug into your switch to be your cup of tea), that might be a MUCH cheaper route than getting someone out there to do it. Maybe you have a friend that can assist, if they are into networking.

But absolutely, Cat5E is Cat5E, be it used for POTS (telephone) or home networking, it's the same media, just how it's terminated on both ends is what matters.

Here is an example of an 8 port Cat5E patch panel. It has color codings for 568A and 568B (in your pic above, 568A per the wall plate, if wired correctly):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVZVUBO


Punch Down Tool w/ cutter (be careful when using that you pay attention which end the blade is so you don't cut the wrong side of the punch!):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E58M5EG

This is just to hopefully give you an idea of what to search on Youtube for information. Glad to help, just research and research before tackling it yourself, but this isn't something that is going to be super difficult, but also don't want to see someone charge you $500 to do this job!

Good luck, and it's always fun to learn a new skill!

that's a pretty legit list right there. I have a trunk full of gear, probably worth almost as much as my car. I do a lot of contract work, so my list is pretty much the same just slightly beefed up.

• I have a basic tech kit from Amazon
  
• I have a buttset Sometimes reffered to as a linemans set.
  
• About 10 of these Floating around my car/trunk/tool bags and person. because i like to lose things lol
  
• A Basic cable tester
  
• This Cable mapper
  
• Coax crimper (For tv, and bnc)
  
• Crimp Kit
  
• I buy these Like candy, they're perfect for ISO's for giving to customers with instructions and/or iso's just perfect in general for a lot of things.
  
• Stinger Flash light Serves double duty as a i'm a volunteer first and second responder
  
• Cable stripper
  
  Replenishables
  
  
• I Keep at least 50 of these on hand
  
• rg59 tips (CCTV BNC Tips)
  
• RG6 tips (Cable TV)
  
• RJ45 tips (A mason jar filled with about 60-100)
  
• at minimum of box of cat5 Sometimes up to three boxes. i will have a job soon that will require six of them lol.
  
• Patch Cables 3f and 5ft usually at minimum 10 of each
  
• zip ties (Usually three containers of 500 of assorted sizes)
  
• White 2 4 and 6 port keystone faceplates
  
• White keystone blanks
  
• low voltage mounting brackets
  
• white 1 and 2 port surface mount boxes
  
• some hdmi cables (Usually just 4 or 5 of these)
  
• electrical tape (5 50' rolls of different color) for many things
  
• Pull string
  
• dikes (Not really but they dissappear so fast they feel like it) like These
  
• I actually keep two label makers
  
• Rolls of 8 inch velcro ties
  
  contractor things
  
  
• Step bits
  
• Paddle bits
  
• Hole Saw Kit
  
• Masonry bits
  
• Caulk gun
  
• caulk
  
• grommets
  
• Ladder
  
• First aid kit
  
• 150' Fish tape
  
• An 18V Cordless DeWalt Hammer Drill
  
• Regular drill bits
  
  
  
• I use these to organize my laptop bag (win surface pro with usb to rj45 adapter, usb to db9 adapter, console cable, lan cable, wifi hotspot, anker battery pack, 500gb usb hard drive etc)
  
• I use these bags to organize everything
  
  and a myriad of other small parts pertaining to surveillance system installs, and screw bits for my drill, and i even have secured walkies for when i have multiple employees on site. plus i have to admit bluetooth headsets for when i have to deal with helpdesks or tech support while i'm on site... did i mention i do a lottttt of contract work. i'm all over the place. every now and then i run into things that this kit can't handle but for the most part i come away with a rather professional look.
  
  sorry for formatting, i've seen plenty of these posts this is the first time i took time to actually look up evrything i've purchased.
  
  Edit: Some formatting. added velcro :P

Read through the links before you add anything to your cart, the tools at the top are what I personally use and can vouch for, the tools at the bottom are in kits and case save you some money if you only do this once in a while but I can't vouch for the quality.

Crimping tool(17$):

TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_piZVAbZZVWPM7

Has a built in perfect cut wire strippers

Connectors(9$):

Cybertech Cat6, Cat5e RJ-45 8P8C Ethernet Modular Crimp Connectors Plugs Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YiZVAb72959BY

Cat5e Cable(25$) (200ft, pre-made but you can clip and make your own out of it)

200FT Feet CAT5 Cat5e Ethernet Patch Cable - RJ45 Computer Networking Wire Cord (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XBHM6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RkZVAbZ8D2F00

The cable is actually not that good of a deal because you can get 1000ft for 50$ without any ends, but I was aiming for sub 50$.

Total cost: 51$

Additional extras I'd recommend:

Cable tester(8$) tests if the cables and connections you made are good. A great investment for beginners and pros)

Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tnZVAb616Y59H

Cable boots(6$) protect your cable ends from having the tips broken and looks cleaner IMO


uxcell 100 Pcs Soft Plastic Ethernet RJ45 Cable Connector Boots Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K82RNX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qoZVAb54MHXCJ


They also have combo kits like this that exist, I can't speak to their quality but the tools are simple tools so this may save you some scratch

>UbiGear Cable Tester +Crimp Crimper +100 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug Network Tool Kits (Crimper315) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hqZVAb8RM9GVK

Has the tester and everything, includes a wire stripper which is nice

>Maxmoral 7 in 1 Cable Tester + Crimp Crimper + Wire Stripper + 50 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug + 100 Cable Ties + 100 Cable Cord Holder Clips + 2 Ethernet Connector Network Tool Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7S5X6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrZVAb10QP91E

Same deal, has boots though.

Not very. That crimper is made specifically for the PicoBlade series connectors from Molex. And at that, only one pitch of PicoBlade connectors (there are multiples) It will not work with all terminals in that range. Well, it might or might not but it's really a crapshoot. Molex crimpers are generally made for a specific set of terminals for a specific pitch for a specific connector series, and are not intended to be universal. Not sure if Molex offers interchangeable dies either, although I assume they would. BUT not all of their terminals use this style of crimper either. Some have entirely different form factors with different types of dies.

Also, if you haven't used a Molex crimper they have a spring-loaded button thing on the back that pushes a plastic piece forward between the open die, which holds the terminals. Check out this video. They are not universal either and each is designed for a narrow range of terminals. Molex makes dozens of different crimpers. You can fit other terminals in there sometimes but they won't hold well and will be too wobbly or too big. Some of the terminals require unique finished crimp geometries to fit in the connector housing, and so crimpers for them won't work well for "general purpose" terminals.

I recommend staying away from the OEM crimpers - as nice as they are - until you have a specific need for one or you need to assemble a ton of connectors. If you're putting connectors in something mission-critical or very hard to get to, it may be worth it to get the correct OEM crimper to ensure crimp quality. For most hobbyist purposes though - not worth it IMHO.

Instead, I'd suggest picking up one of these. So far I like it a lot more than the "engineer" crimper which I've also used extensively. The IWISS is actually a "combo" of 2 of their other crimpers and covers a pretty wide range of terminals. It will also crimp both wire and insulation in one step, and the die is sized differently for those portions. Much more convenient, twice as fast to do a terminal. The Engineer crimper requires you to first crimp the wire, then the insulation (or vice versa).

The engineer is OK but it's not nearly as good for small terminals. The clearances inside the closed die are quite large, terminals get jammed in there and misshapen or broken. Or the part sticking out of the die is bent by the crimping process. It's also not correctly toleranced for insulation crimping so you have to do it by feel or you'll just crimp through the insulation altogether. I've pretty much decommissioned that one. The IWISS has so far been very good, just squeeze all the way and done with good insulation crimping.

Of course, if you know you will only use that series of connectors and you don't mind the outlay for OEM crimpers, then by all means go for it. They are super nice to use so if you can justify it then more power to you!

I have printed many of his components for my c-bot printer and his stuff is very well thought out. I went bigger and I am sure that I will run into some tech hurdles to overcome because of the size and weight of my bed but your excellent prints give me hope! For DuPont connectors I picked up an iswiss ratcheting DuPont connector crimper. Click Here

If you didn't get the ratcheting on it is worth the money. I would insert the connector. Crimp down until the tabs that grip the wire insulation would bow slightly, and then insert my wire and finish the crimp. Worked like a champ!

Yellow is color coded for 10-12 awg, it would be best to use an insulated crimper then. I would recommend the Titan Tools Crimper under $20, i have had it for over a year and use it nearly every week. It is ratcheting so it makes it easier to crimp and always crimps the proper amount. For a less expensive option you could buy the Gardner Bender Crimper under $10 or something similar. I haven't used that specific tool, but i have used hand crimpers and they get the job done, but you need to make sure you crimp the proper amount. Gardner Bender is a good brand, not top quality, but will last a long time and will work properly when taken care of.

Don't know if there is a good list, though a few things are mentioned at the bottom of the unofficial V2 BOM. but I'll do my best to say what I used for my V2:

Metric Hex screw drivers: I picked up bondhus 10686 for this build, and it served me well.

Ferrule crimper: Something similar to this ( Mine is actually This guy here., but I'm sure I didn't pay anywhere near that much)

wire stripper: something else I've had forever, but something along these lines

un-insulated terminal crimper: Engineer PA-09 served me very well

Insulated terminal crimper: something else I've had far too long to have the branding. Mine look a lot like these though.

And then it's down to really normal stuff, that you probably already have around: normal screw drivers (mostly phillips), precision screw drivers, scissors, box cutter.

You're bound to want a multimeter for something, at some point.

Oh. And I cut my plexiglas panels on the table saw, since I have one. That's certainly not necessary though. Lots of people doing just fine with scribe cutters like this

You'll notice I didn't include any drill bits or taps. Sorry, I went with the pre-cut, pre-tapped Misumi framing, so I didn't DO any cutting or tapping. I can tell you though, if you're tapping your own, all your taps will be for M5 x 0.8 threaded screws.

I would recommend the below laser, it works as described. Having a separate control module seems to be something of a personal preference based on the project, I mounted it on the X-Axis carriage above the laser.
2.5W Laser Module

I'm very happy with the below MKS-Base V1.6 (?!?) controller board. Apart from having to replace all of the Solidoodle connectors with JST-XH connectors it has been very easy to work with. There are a bunch of comments about various polarities being reversed, but I haven't seen it yet. I have not hooked up the LCD yet, which is one of the wiring concerns mentioned in the Amazon reviews.
MKS Base v1.6 Controller Board

This crimper is the bomb! I debated this unit (~$17) vs the PA-09 (~$40), and am extremely happy with my choice. The lack of reviews on this one made me a bit skittish, but I have another IWISS crimper that works well and I went with the brand recognition (and it's cheaper.)
IWISS Crimper Tool

This is really expensive for a crimper, but the 'official tool' for those ends. It also slices off the passthrough bits when you crimp down. I had that crimper and the EZ ends at a previous job and the results were always positive and could even pass fluke tests super easy.

https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00939KFOU&pd_rd_r=C776B95H44EYJGZ5MECM&pd_rd_w=WcQxT&pd_rd_wg=WPTyb&psc=1&refRID=C776B95H44EYJGZ5MECM

Thanks for posting that it will pass through HDMI audio.

I am using the same LCD controller, but I wrongly assumed that the "Speaker" header would only amplify line-level audio coming into the 3.5mm input. This would have saved me from installing an external amp.

In case anyone finds it useful, here is a technical spec PDF that I found for that LCD controller. It indicates that the speaker port supplies an amplified 2x1W 8 Ohm speaker-level output.

The "Speaker" header on the PCB is a JST-PH connector. You can buy these connectors on Amazon and Ebay, which would allow you to make your own wire and connect to different 8 Ohm speakers if you so choose. I recently bought a set of these and the required crimper tool because I've had a few projects come up recently that used this type of connector. You'll need 24 AWG or smaller wire, some good eyes, and some practice in order to do these quickly. Here's what I ordered in case it's helpful:

1470 Pieces 2.0mm JST-PH JST Connector Kit

Hook-up Stranded Wire 24 AWG

Iwiss XH2.0mm XH2.54mm XH3.96mm Dupont D-Sub Terminals JST Pin Crimper

I got some of these the wires are only 22 awg but I can't find anything bigger. You would need a soldering iron but you could also just get this plus a crimp tool which would honestly be better I think.

Take a look at Youtube for simple tutorials. You could also change both the male and female ends to better connectors of your choice, just make sure you get the correct crimping tool. Cheers!

Read up on? Not particularly. A long time ago I read a book called "The car stereo cookbook" that I learned a lot from, but that is more about the how to set up a good sound system rather than a good wiring instructor. A resource that I can give you, that is invaluable to me, is the12volt.com. Pretty much any car you should be able to find a wiring diagram on there. Other than that watch youtube to learn how to solder and maybe get a nice set of crimp pliers like these http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-18900-Professional-Ratcheting/dp/B0002STTSY/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1395362735&sr=1-3&keywords=crimper

So being commo I know some good gifts for us nerds. I know you are going to spend some time making cables, so check this shit out RJ-45's that let you pull the wires though the RJ45. Well now that you got that, might as well buy the crimper with a cutting edge designed for those RJ-45's. I keep the Crimpers in a old PRC-127 radio pouch for easy attachment to my gear if needed too.

If you wanna feel like a cool guy with a gerber, but also need to run some cables? Well we got the Gerber Cable Dawg. Great thing about this thing is it has MAN's for you to get that supply guy who you have been nice too order them and comes with a MOLLE pouch to attach to your gear.

• UCP: 5110-01-598-2253
  
• Coyote Brown: 5110-01-598-2254
  
• MultiCam: 5110-01-598-2248

>trim to proper length

EZRJ-45.

http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2

http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU

I will never go back. You can't make me. NO ONE CAN MAKE ME GO BACK.

On the real though, these save you SO MUCH TIME, and if you're like me and just hold your hand over the wires while you crimp/cut the cleanup is super easy.

Cutting, stripping, crimp/cut. Best things I've ever used.

Even has the pinout for A/B on there so you really shouldn't screw it up.

First off, congrats and welcome!

Hardwiring the DashCam was pretty easy, this is what I got for the job:

[Mobius ActionCam] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GPXYVQU/)

12V to USB Power Adapter

Mini Add-A-Fuse Kit

Crimps

Crimping Tool

And finally the instructions for wiring and routing the cable nicely:
http://www.focusst.org/forum/focus-st-electronics/13092-simple-instructions-hard-wiring-radar-detector-other-device.html

There's different fuses you can use depending if you want it on all the time or just when the car is on.

For floor mats I got these and they're great:
3D MAXpider

Alright, you and /u/PioneerStandard have convinced me.

Would you mind helping me figure out which would work best?

Would a ratcheting one like this be best despite the cost? https://www.amazon.ca/Titan-11477-Ratcheting-Terminal-Crimper/dp/B0069TRKJ0

Or would a nice/decent wire stripper/cutter/crimper like this work alright? https://www.amazon.ca/Gardner-Bender-GS-366-Multi-Purpose-Crimp/dp/B00164C0KW

Also, would a more "plier-type" tool work as well? https://www.amazon.ca/Irwin-Industrial-2078309-Stripper-ProTouch/dp/B000JNNWQ2

Thanks by the way.

FYI, a punch down tool to punch down those jacks like in the pictures attached to the OP is a completely different thing (and different skill) then what you need to crimp down the RJ45 connectors on a patch cable.

It's much easier to re-punch down the jacks then it is to crimp some patch cables, but if you would like to get into making cables, I would highly recommend getting an EZ-RJ crimper like this one on Amazon. With these (and the special connectors), you untwist the pairs and pull them through the connector and then when you crimp it will cut off the excess. Makes things MUCH easier, especially when you are just getting started.

You would be better off making your own. I've found that a lot of the sets are cheap.

Here's my take on it.

1.Cable tester:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d
/B000P1OA1O?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645606&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Simple cat5 tester, cheap and works decently.

2. Cable stripper:

Here I've given two options, one is a spinning stripper made for things like taking the jacket off cat5, the second is a more of an electrical stripper for a bunch of gauges of wire with cutters at the back side. If your comfortable with it you can use the cutters to strip just about anything.

2.a http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0099DIV4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645735&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

2.b. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00080DPNQ?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412645735&sr=8-12#ref=mp_s_a_1_12

3.punchdown tool :
If your in a spot where you get to do punchdowns it's nice to have, they are cheap and work well,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KMFDZ0?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646040&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

4. Cat 5 ends:
Always keep plenty of these, a bag of them is cheap and you will be glad you have them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003M5BIII?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646222&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

5: crimper:

Never underestimate a good crimper. I have had no luck with the cutting portion of them but that's why I have other tools.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AZK4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646393&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

6. #2 philps head.
I like ratcheting screw drivers with multiple heads but this is easily the most used screwdriver in my set.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NNK9MS?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412646575&sr=8-5#ref=mp_s_a_1_5

The flat head out of this set is also nice, depending on your bag keep them all handy.


Everything beyond this point is optional or situational.

8. Power supply tester: if you do any sort of computer repair these are very handy to hold on to.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MKCALY?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646902&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3

9. Tweaker: good for laptop repair or if you deal with any sort of building controllers/ low voltage electrical.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058I6VNE?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412647026&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I also have a similar sized Philips head screw driver but I use it much less frequently.

10. Electrical tape: some people say it's for those who mess up doing electrical, I call it insurance.

11. Linemans: I use mine to crimp chicklets mostly but they come in handy a lot. I couldn't find the exact ones I use b

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000A0S4XK?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412647275&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4


12: a bag:
Personally, I use an old back pack. I find its a lot easier to carry that along with a box of cable. This is entirely preference.

> SGD155BR

That seems to be a specific tool designed for you marine guys. That's out of my field, I'm not going to google chase for anything like it.

>PWCS7CF

I now see we're playing your game haha. It's a rather wierd breed of stripper.crimpers. Nonetheless, OTC makes a pair like them for $18 on Amazon. Lifetime warranty. They also make a angled version you might be intrested in. SnapOn doesn't list this on their website anymore, but the PWCS7CF sells for ~$60 online. So, The OTC are $42 cheaper.


>TLL72

Craftsman, but still good enough to make money with. SnapOn MSRP is $111. That Gearwrench is $26. $85 in savings by going Gearwrench.

> 137ACF



Easy enough . SnapOn MSRP is $41. The Klein one is $16 with lifetime warranty. Savings of $25


>29ACF

Easy enough. SnapOn MSRP $62. Klein tool is $30 with lifetime warranty. Savings of $32.

Between the 4 tools I compared, the other options saved a total of $184. Same quality as SnapOn? Maybe not on all, but probably yes to some. All of them come with life-time warranty, and not not shit tools and are considered /r/buyitforlife items!

I can't tell for sure from the photos, but that cable is probably at least CAT5e or better, which is just fine for 1GB ethernet in the house.

You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.

I was in exactly the same place ~a year and a half ago. If you don't mind a little effort, I think it's totally worth DIYing this so it's less mysterious. You'd be surprised how many things are thrown away because e.g. the power cord is damaged.

If you're going to the hardware store, just bring the terminal with you and match it up by eye, if you're sticking with Amazon, you can buy an assorted pack like this to have your bases covered. Then you'll need a crimp tool (like this) to actually attach it. If you're stocking up you can get some cheap wire strippers, but in a pinch you can use a knife or even scissors. As u/vp3d said, these are all run-of-the-mill things that should be both cheap and readily available. When you're done, put them all in the same box so you can find them next time you need them.

Measure out the length of wire you need (leave extra, especially on the first end), strip off the insulation far enough that the connector can fit on (but don't leave it bare outside the connector), stick the wire in the connector, match the color of the insulation on your terminal to the color on the crimper, and squeeze! While it's possible to screw up, you can just snip off the terminal and try again. Worth googling quickly, but the only real thing you need to worry about is that the crimp is decent (look up images of good and bad) and that it's secure - you should be able to tug on it and not have it budge at all.

Talking to prusa support and getting another set is also a very reasonable option, but doesn't come with near the same sense of satisfaction.

I can almost guarantee this is cable-related, especially given the intermittent nature of the issue. First, make sure the cable isn't loose, and try to push the cables into the connectors a bit. If this doesn't fix your issue, you will need to fix the cable.

A cat5 cable is comprised of four twisted pairs, a total of 8 little
wires. Somewhere in those 20m, one of those wires is cut or damaged.

It is most likely to be at the tip where the RJ45 connector (clear piece) attaches, and if the cable is run through the floors, you better hope this is the case.

Figure out what order the cables go into the connector by looking at them. They are identified with pairs of colours, as shown here

The connector will most likely look like this

Notice that there are two distinct standards. It's important that you use the same standard when re-crimping the cables on both ends.

You can simply cut about 10cm off each end, and obtain a crimper tool to reattach new connectors.

To use the crimper, insert the ends of the cables into the slots in the "empty" connectors, and then press down with the crimper to lock them into place. It's not very difficult, but you need to decide if it's worth your time and effort.

If the break in the cable is in the middle (unlikely, but possible) you're looking at ripping out the cable and running a whole new one. I don't know how exactly the cable is run, if it comes through a plate in the wall, or if it's just a cat5 cable shoved through a hole drilled in the wall, but either way replacing it is going to be pretty expensive unless you do it yourself. I would personally recommend doing this professionally, and getting two "plugs" installed in the walls.

edit: If you know any computer geeks who might know how to do this, or who already have a crimper, invite them over for a beer or something it'll take them 5 minutes

edit2: If you live in Montreal i have the day off and like beer

On god. Yeah that's for savages. Klein makes an really good crimper . Nothing fancy, but very well made, hardened tool steel, and covers pretty much all automotive wire gauges. Also need to use good crimp connectors like these . They come with a high heat, heat shrink you can just use a regular lighter to shrink down

Make sure you look up how to attach the cable ends to the cables. There are 8 wires in the cable and they're color coded. You have to put them in the correct order or they won't work. [Technically, the actual color order doesn't matter, but they have to be consistent.]

Might not be worth it for a one-time job, but a cable tester like:
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-HDE-H11-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B000P1OA1O
... is handy to check your work before it drives you insane. You plug in the remote to one end and the base to the other and it lights up if you have a connection or shows mismatches. When you're done, you can test cables using the base. Definitely worth the $5 since now you can make custom length ethernet cables for a fraction of the cost you can buy them at the store for.

You have to decide if you want to put plug ends on (like the end of an ethernet cable) which will plug straight into your device or receptacles that you mount to the floor/wall in a plate (and then you use a regular cable [that you can now make!] to connect it to your device.)

They both work, the receptacles and plates look nicer than a cable sticking out of the floor.

You'll need a drill and drill bits to put holes in things.
If you're going under, you'll want clips that hold the cable in place, maybe. Zipties work too.

You'll need a crimper, like:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G
You get the wires lined up into the plug and this squeezes the metal contacts down into the wires to hold them and make a connection.

It's totally doable, go for it!

To clarify:

A switch will several ethernet ports. One of these is an "uplink" port, and the rest are for your devices.

If you connect the "uplink" port to something that would allow a computer to connect to the internet, it can provide that to everything else plugged into it.

A switch doesn't provide internet access or wireless connectivity on its own.

I would recommend:

• Take the plug out of the keystone
  
• Plug it into the "Uplink" port of a switch. (Many new switches have auto-uplink, which means it doesn't matter)
  
• Cut off the cancerous mess of wires. They're hooked up completely wrong (which is the main reason it got crossposted to /r/cablefail - it definitely belongs.) Just cut back to where you have plastic sheathing again and start fresh.
  
  • For whatever reason they thought they could just hook all the same colors together. That doesn't work. There are a few tricks you can pull with different pairs, but this definitely isn't one of them.
    
• Use an ethernet crimping tool like this to attach RJ-45 jacks like this to the wires, using this wire arrangement.
  
  • You can find these at most larger hardware stores, like Home Depot or Lowes. Look in the electrical wiring sections.
    
  • Don't strip the wires before putting them in the jack. The crimping tool pushes small spikes through the sheathing into the wire.
    
• Plug all the freshly crimped cables into the ethernet ports on the switch.
  
  The only possible reason I can think for this arrangement is if those were supposed to be phone lines, which work completely differently and usually use a different plug. (Many businesses do use RJ45 and cat5 for phones, but they don't do it quite like that)
  
  If you draw out the layout for how your network should work, it should look something like this:
  
  
• Router
  
  • Devices connected directly to router
    
  • Switch, through wall cable
    
    • Wall Jack 1
      
    • Wall Jack 2
      
    • etc.
      

I was going to post this, including an Amazon link, possibly to that same product page. While I await your wisdom, future self who is somehow British, let me add that a decent crimper is worth its weight in gold for this. Pliers will work, but it's a nightmare to do once, much less five times for a 4S balance plug. These look good, I'd link mine but I bought a set meant for larger terminals, and while they work on the small stuff we use, they're not supposed to.

For OP's benefit, (paging /u/Brookshire) the best way I've found to do this is to strip about 1~2mm off the wire, put the terminal in the crimper and close it until the ratchet engages and the jaws are barely holding it, feed the wire into the terminal, and then finish the crimp. The little tabs should be on bare wire, the fingers should be on insulation, and no part of the wire should be past the boxy bit at the end, it screws with the pins fitting when you plug it in. You can add a dab of solder before you put the terminal into the plug if you want, but you shouldn't need to and it might not fit if you use too much solder. The terminal is supposed to go into the plug a certain way, but honestly it's easier to look at a finished balance plug than to have me fail to explain it. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

If you don't own them already, pick up a set of crimpers like these which do a very nice job of fully crimping things like ring terminals.

When you get the terminals, either get the heat-shrink variety, or the bare (non-insulated) and some appropriate heat shrink tubing. It's not necessary to do this, but it dresses the installation up nicely and makes it look like you care about the details.

Direct Burial the only drawback is price its very very expensive if that is not a concern the only other issue is the grease that they put inside just have a few paper towels on hand. I am personally a fan of the pull through RJ45 crimps https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000FI9VU2&pd_rd_r=F3DK2M04KMB56TMZA4K2&pd_rd_w=tcXRA&pd_rd_wg=ggomX&psc=1&refRID=F3DK2M04KMB56TMZA4K2&dpID=41jjLiPUwkL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

but you need a special tool to cut it off clean. https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524701919&sr=8-3&keywords=ez+rj45&dpID=41xnvb1PL8L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I especially like these as you can double check that you have not messed up as you pull them through just do a double check on your colour's

in Canada we tend to use T568a but i believe a lot of places use T568b personal preference, http://www.cables-solutions.com/difference-between-straight-through-and-crossover-cable.html

I have never found any conduit that gets buried to be able to stop water ingress but any electrical supply store should be able to set you up with whatever you need but direct burial should be used as well especially if your in a place like Canada with a large temperature range.

I highly recommend these instead. I decided to go with them over the ones like you have and other similar models after watching this guy's video on crimping. They're worth every penny. I've crimped everything from DuPont connectors to JST PH series using 22-28AWG. They do require the extra 1-2 steps described in dude's video, but they work great. It took a couple crimps to realize not to go full ape-man when squeezing the crimp tool, but after I realized that it's been very effective for my needs.

Highly recommend Unifi AP's with a mikrotik controller. Even better if you can leave an old laptop on site for managing the unifi stuff remotely.

A single unifi outdoor model might be a good place to start, then it doesn't need to be located inside the tenants premises-- no one wants to have a tech banging around in their attic to re-align the antenna. They are also very impressive with better range than the enterprise or long range hockey puck units.

Adding additional units if necessary (and the software will be able to tell you unlike other brands/models) is a cinch, the controller software sets them up so that the network is seamless and centrally controllable.

A mikrotik rb2011 would be a good choice for a router. It has 10 ethernet ports which is formidable, and it has lots of horsepower so that you can implement content blocking if necessary to preserver the quality of the network.

http://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RB2011L-IN-10-Ethernet-Ports/dp/B008GZ7NEC/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405127763&sr=1-4&keywords=rb2011

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFI-Outdoor-Access-802-11bgn/dp/B0066DV06I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405127813&sr=1-1&keywords=unifi+outdoor

Don't forget CAT5e, RJ-45 connectors, and a crimping tool if you don't have them already:

http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Ethernet-Cable-500ft-Cat-5e/dp/B0092THNDW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405127939&sr=8-1&keywords=cat5e

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Tester-Crimper-Connector-Network/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405127990&sr=8-1&keywords=rj-45+crimpers

• Wire snips - These Claus scissors are my favorite
  
• 110 Punchdown tool - If you want to spend a little more, you can get one with a blade that will stay sharper longer. I've used both TrendNet and Fluke. The fluke blade lasts longer.
  
• Stripping tool - Makes stripping cables much faster and accurate (once you adjust the blade to the cable you're using). You can just as well strip by hand, but always be sure to examine the wires to ensure you didn't nick them.
  
• RJ45 Crimper - You won't need these unless you plan on terminating any cables with RJ45 plugs. If you're strictly terminating into a patch panel you can skip these.
  
  Other useful things:
  
  
• Cable tester
  
• Velcro
  
• Label maker

Answers:

1. A cable cutter https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-911-Cable-Cutting-9-5-Inch/dp/B00004SBDG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cable+cutter&qid=1556237766&s=hi&sr=1-3 makes a nice clean cut; electrician's side cutters squishes the cable https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-J2000-48-Diagonal-Cutters/dp/B0006M6Y8O/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1YQ9ZDYTGHD0N&keywords=side+cutters+klein&qid=1556237820&s=hi&sprefix=side+cutter%2Ctools%2C182&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1 (I use side cutters as my next move is to put an end on it anyways)
   
   
2. Solder, Crimp or Compression connectors plus appropriate tools. Everyone has their favourite and it can become a religious war so I'll say no more. If crimping or compressing, use a ratcheting tool https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Professional-Insulated-Connectors-Ratcheting/dp/B01IQIALJC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ratchet+crimp+tool&qid=1556237927&s=hi&sr=1-4 they usually look something like this but note the good handles cost upwards to $100 and the cheap ones (as pictured) aren't worth it as they wear out quickly. You'll also need a set of dies https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-2656-CrimpALL-8000-Crimper/dp/B000JJGR1S/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=lmr+400+crimp+dies&qid=1556238008&s=hi&sr=1-5-spell for the appropriate size and type of coax. Some websites (DXE, Powerwerx) sell kits of this stuff for Ham use and the value is good.
   
   
3. No rip-off when you consider the value of the tools . . .
   
   
4. You always need a RF connector to attach a cable to anything; you can't splice the stuff and have the impedance remain intact.
   
   
5. Loss is additive in RF and your goal should be to minimize it everywhere and match impedance everywhere. Cheap coax will last a little while, better coax lasts decades - make the investment and you won't be sorry.
   
   73

I have no experience with some of these specific items but I wouldn't hesitate to buy them from what I've seen:

The cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Shielded-Waterproof-Ethernet-trueCABLE/dp/B01JAVN1C8/

The "ends" -- these are keystone jacks. You could put RJ45 plugs on, but I think keystone jacks are more forgiving, plus it's more flexible since you can plug a patch cable into this. Also, putting RJ45 ends on this direct bury cable will be tricky since it will have thicker shielding.

https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Cat6-Keystone-Jack-Compatible/dp/B07JRD69V6

The punchdown tool -- you could get by with a cheaper/simpler one like this -- you'll probably want this for stripping the jacket (it does both), though a razor blade will work too:

https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Wire-Stripper-Rj45-Cat5-Cable/dp/B07MQB7STL/

This is kind of a basic middle of the road example of a proper punchdown tool, though the previous one is fine for a small amount of work.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Storage-Interchangeable-Reversible-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/

Once punched down, you can plug those keystone jacks into wall plates like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Profile-Keystone/dp/B074HGPH18

Or surface mount boxes:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-2-Port-Surface-Mount-107089/dp/B0069MDB9U/

You could even find a small patch panel.

You can crimp ethernet cables quite easily - just need the end pieces and a crimp tool (this kit is GREAT)

Power cables can also be done but are a bit easier then Ethernet or telephone cables as they are just a positive/negative/ground wire into an end....pretty straight forward but I advise getting a cord that is already destroyed and working on it first...duh :P should just be copper inside colored tubes that goes to a specific end...typically red is power spot / grey or black is negative / and a completely different color is for ground - but that is a guess on my part as I've not taken one apart in forever as it is cheaper and faster to just get a different/new one.

Telephone cables are basically the same as Ethernet, just need to know the wire pin layout <-- that link is both RJ11 telephone and RJ45 ethernet layouts and its the same process (obviously need telephone ends to crimp onto it - that link has 50 to a bag).

Most cables are straight forward ESPECIALLY with the internet having the answer to cable layouts and everything :)

EDIT - once you do an ethernet cable crimp job everything else becomes very easy haha.

Hey, I used this crimping kit from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07R1H3Z8X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

The easiest way would be to only use two wires, only connecting the data and a ground (sacrificing rumble). The two pin connector fits nicely. Or if you're determined like I was you can bend the female connector pins of a 4 pin to fit into the header.

I will take a picture of my controllers PCB when I get the chance to show you.

The connectors are JST-XH plugs (JST = Japan Solderless Terminals). They are quite common in the R/C community. Wired 4-pin plugs are readily available, but I don't know if you can easily get patch cables. A crimping tool is a good investment. The Engineer PA-09 is probably the best, but there are cheaper options. JST-XH crimps and kits are also available online.

While you can get good punches with those, you need to make sure your keystone is on a good solid surface, and press down cleanly and smoothly; make sure not to "rock" the tool from side to side as it might crimp or otherwise damage the wire. (A keystone "stand" might help) Your keystone should also have come with a protector which you should use immediately as it helps seat the wire as well.

If you expect to do this regularly, the investment in a real 110 punch-down tool is worth it. I'm a huge fan of the comfort-grip Fluke, but there are many other brands which will do just as good of a job for a quarter of the price (they're just not as comfortable or feature-packed).

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FGWPK2/
Fluke Comfort Punch: $70

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D/
TrendNet 110 Punch: $17

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008NXK3NU/
Keystone Stand: $6

IMO a 110/66 punch-down tool is the only cabling tool a networker still needs in her bag.

That is a JST connector.

Since this is a gimbal and timing is super important, Id recommend clipping all 4 wires to the same length and re crimp all the connections.
I HIGHLY recommend doing a bunch of test crimps before re crimping those to make sure you do those right.

JST Connectors: https://www.amazon.com/GeeBat-JST-XHP-Connector-housing-Adapter/dp/B01MCZE2HM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1491418207&sr=8-8&keywords=4+pin+jst

JST Crimping tool: https://www.amazon.com/Iwiss-XH2-54mm-Terminals-SN-01BM-0-08-0-5mm2/dp/B00YGLKBSK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491418309&sr=8-1&keywords=JST+Crimping+tool

How to Crimp JST Pins: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-pTsccCizA

I bought a ton of them at a local store, so i can't vouch for the online stores i'm linking to, but here ya go!

They are called "EZ-RJ45"

Connector/Cable End

Crimper

Hope that helps!

Cheers!

EDIT:Amazon.com Link
Crimper (Connectors in suggested items)

Use a multimeter and check the voltage of your "fried" stepper driver. Connect + to the potentiometer and - to the psu GND or any other GND really. If it returns no voltage, then it is fried. If it returns a voltage, try the same on a stepper driver that you know works. If the voltages are roughly the same then they're tuned. If not, then adjust the one you thought you fried to the voltage of the stepper driver that works.
Personally, I've never been a fan of embedded stepper drivers, it isn't very future proof, not to mention many boards that come with embedded stepper drivers use cheap a4988 drivers. If you need to replace your board, the cheapest solution would be a ramps 1.4 + Arduino mega. An all in one solution would be something like the MKS GEN V1.X boards, like the v1.4. The advantage of the ramps over the MKS board is that if you feel you don't have enough computing power, or you want to add more features to your printer, you could always buy a Re-Arm and use it as a substitute for your arduino mega. You may need a crimper, and a set of DuPont connectors to make connectors fit though, whichever board you pick. I recommend the Engineer pa-09. As for stepper drivers, you can use A4988 drivers, but DRV8825 drivers are a bit better. One thing to note, is that shipping from china usually takes 3-6 weeks, if you need stepper drivers sooner than that, I have like 6 spares I could sell you.

2. No. Crimping Tool is used to terminate a cable. A Punch Down Tool is used to terminate a keystone jack/wall plate or patch panels.
   
   
3. If you use an unmanaged switch (which you probably should), yes it's pretty much plug and play.
   
   
4. All the ethernet runs need to plug into the switch, where it is, is up to you. What you've described would work fine. But why not move the modem too while you're at it?! What's stopping you from running the coax from the cable company to said office?! I'm suggesting that you keep all equipment in one place.
   
   
5. That's up to you. This has a hole in the ceiling, wires to the patch panel, then to the switch, then to the router. Or you can get a couple of wall plates. If it's a closet, I'd go with the patch panel.
   
   
6. Any physical obstruction will impair the wifi. Hence I suggest making a couple of runs to the ceiling, one up one downstairs and installing APs. You wifi will never be the same.
   
   
7. Your router does not have enough ports for the runs you're making. Yes, you'll definitely need a switch.

The advantage of using Ubiquiti stuff is the amount of info available: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ubiquiti+nanostation+ptp

PtP means Point-to-point, which is the kind of link you want to do. You will need some outdoor ethernet cable and a crimp tool + connectors. A simple cable tester would be useful too to make sure the cable is OK.

Also, Ubiquiti uses passive PoE. Plug your injector correctly or it will fry your computer's network card!

Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any more questions!

those crimpers work but they are actually for non insulated only and tend to punch through insulation, doesn't look like there is an insulated hole on them. For quick work use my trusty old klein but I also have a ratcheting crimper with a few different die sets, the insulated die is a double crimp and works fantastic. This works almost as well for a lot less $$$(I bought the cheap one when I thought I loaned my palidin then realized it was in another toolbox). I'm usually too lazy to solder stuff under the dash(proof of laziness), but anything outside of the cabin I solder and use glue lined heatshrink to make sure the union is not compromised. When I do use butt splices or crimp caps, I make sure to use the right crimper.

I also consider my test light as a must have, computer AND airbag safe. It make signal chasing much easier using the piercing probe and the headlight is handy. Keep the bandaids handy using it though, I've tested the voltage in my fingers quite a few times.

While the plastic trim tools come in handy, I find something like this very handy when you need a bit more nut behind the prying, although I haven't't used the window crank clip remover in a LONG time lol.

So your looking for something like THESE or THESE

I have both of these crimpers. The T&B's are my current go to's and i gave my Kleins to an apprentice, but they served me well for 15 years and still crimp as good as the day i bought them. The T&B 112(what i use) does insulated and non-insulated crimps and the 111 is non insulated only

Channellock also makes a very similar good quality crimper for a little cheaper.

ETA- Heres the channellocks

Cat 6 is perfectly fine, as it can support up to 10Gb, so its pretty future proofed as 1Gb is still the standard. We won't see 10Gb becoming the norm for a while.

As far as cable, I usually get it from Monoprice, or sometimes from amazon. I just bought a 1000ft spool of Cat6 for like $65

If you are putting drops in each room, its probably best to put in wall plates, and punch down the cable to a jack. You'll need a Punchdown Tool for this.

I'd highly recommend running all the cables to a patch panel. Ideally have them run to the same location as your modem and other networking equipment. You'd use the same punch down tool here as well.

If you need to terminate any cables to a normal Ethernet connector, it isn't difficult, but it is a bit tedious. The first one you do will take you a bit to do, but once you get the hang of it, each one will become a little quicker. you can watch a youtube video on how to do it.
You'll need a Crimping tool to crimp the ends on.

Are you sure this is where it is bad/what is causing the problem. It is hard to tell from the picture exactly, so here is some general info.

The outer black layer is pretty much just for protection/shielding and could be replaced with electrical tape in a pinch (which it sounds like you have tried).

Inside you have 8 wires in 4 color pairs (a solid and a stripe). One or more of those wires may be damaged/disconnected.

I would look at them closely, peal back the black outer coating more if needed, and see if you can find any breaks in the 8 smaller wires. If you find one and absolutely don't want to buy anything to fix it right or run another cable, you may be able to strip off the outer coating on the individual wire to expose the copper wire inside.

Do that on both sides of the break, twist it together, cover with electrical tape, then try it out. If it works, cover the whole thing back up with electrical tape.

If you don't see any obvious breaks or issues, check into other issues (like is it maybe the router, the XBox, the cable RJ-45 plugs (the ends), etc).

Anyway, good luck. If you really want to fix it right, you could get a not that great, but serviceable crimper set for under $15:

http://smile.amazon.com/Wild-us-Tester-Crimper-Connector-Network/dp/B008UY5WL0/

Cut the cable on either side fo the tear, use that to put an RJ45 jack on each end of the break, then use a coupler like this to join them back:

http://smile.amazon.com/Britta-Products-271710-Coupler-Straight/dp/B000BSLW8U/

I know that isn't what you want to do, but it may be the best way if that is the true cause/location of your problem.

This is a selection of what I keep in my tech go-bag. You'll build your kit as you learn and build experience, or realize you could have helped a customer out of a jam quicker if you had that tool with you.

• cheap flashlights you wont feel bad about leaving in a ceiling or inside a rack: https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-Lights-Super-Bright-White/dp/B00I45JKTA/
  
  
• torx screwdriver for lots of little devices. I have a similar set and it's pretty decent: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Magnetic-Precision-Screwdriver-Electronics/dp/B015F734P0/
  
  
• power supply tester
  
  
• rechargable canned air
  
  
• zip ties
  
  
• velcro: https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Cable-Fastening-Tape-Yards/dp/B00FT2WHO6/
  
  
• leatherman/gerber multi-tool (needlenose) convenient when you need to do something quick and you don't have your bag with you.
  
  
• Set of pliers/wire cutters (leave the chanel locks at home): https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-4-Piece-Traditional-2078707/dp/B000CFMCTK/
  
  
• sharpies
  
  
• electrical tape: the good kind not the cheapo stuff
  
  
• multi-screwdriver: https://www.amazon.com/Lenox-Tools-23932-Multi-Tool-Driver/dp/B0013NX2DA/
  
  
• cordless electric screwdriver if you have lots of screwing to do.
  
  
• razor knife: https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Lite-Pocket-Knife-31-000345/dp/B002RILCLY/
  
  
• cable tester/tone generator: https://www.amazon.com/ELEGIANT-Multifunction-Tracker-Measuring-Instrument/dp/B01HCQSHNG/
  
  
• analog phone for testing phone lines: https://www.amazon.com/Saytay-Telephone-Lineman-Tester-Connectors/dp/B01ABT7458/
  
  
• punch down tool: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/
  
  
• cable crimper: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RJ-45-RJ-12-RJ-11-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G/
  
  Various extra parts I've accumulated over the years like screws, ATX Molex Power to SATA Power Adapters, ATX Molex Y splitters, SATA cables etc..
  
  Good luck and some tools overlap like multi tools and pliers so if budget is low, go with the tool that covers the most jobs.
  
  Edit: I noticed your bag is kind of expensive compared to something like a Dewalt tool bag. I use a plain Dewalt bag which is not as cool as the one in the link, but it's just as tough. This might be a good and less expensive consideration for you if you don't require the look of a briefcase for your tool bag.
  
  Edit 2: You may want to mark your tools with a wrap of some crazy bright color electrical tape to be able to recognize them when they walk away.
  
  
  

This is the crimping tool I'm using. It seems ok, and had good reviews on Amazon. I will say that I'm having a hard time with the "pre-crimp," in that if I go all the way to 3 clicks, it's too far, so I'm having to stop at 2 clicks. Not sure that's causing an issue, though. I'm using 18 ga wire.

Based on some of the other comments, I'm pretty sure I was carrying the sleeving up too far, and that was making it hard to get the pin in the hole. I've back the sleeving up/trimmed some of it down, and it's going a little better.

Thanks for the response!

don't worry dude, the other 99'11" of this line is still good, no need to rip it out

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network-Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518894673&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+kit&dpID=51DjZejC9oL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch should have everything you need for under $15 - will sort you out perfectly.

It took me about 20 minutes to learn to use the tools, and now whenever I need a short cable I can just make one. Boot split and frayed? Who cares, I'll just replace that bad boy, no throwing out the entire run for me. Drilling through a wall to feed a cable outdoors, how will the plug fit? No problem. So convenient as a future-proof ability to have under your belt.

Unsurprisingly, excellent instructions for dummies like me are incredibly prolific on the internet, including lots of great YT videos

As others have mentioned the interference from multiple unshielded cables right next to each other will be slowing your entire network down right now (loads of dropped packets and failed attempts), so I agree this is more /r/techsupportgore than MacGyver. Fix this right and everything will be significantly less laggy, plus you only gotta buy cheap tools once and then you're set to be able to make incredibly low price Ethernet lines wherever you live for the rest of your life

We have a 10s, but the same basic upgrades apply. Your goal is to increase stability and repeatability.

Springs:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M7MP2FC/

They're longer than the originals, and much stiffer. We went from having to relevel every print to never touching it once we had it dialed in.

Mirror bed:

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/lots-mirror-39151700/

Replaced the glass bed with one of these. Huge improvement over the original bed, especially since it meant we could swap out build plates without touching the leveling. Just unclip, remove old plate, add new plate. Wash with dish soap and water, wipe down and air dry.

Tools and parts for Petsfang:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R1H3Z8X/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DXRNYNX/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/

These and whatever M screw set floats your budget are all you need to print and install the Petsfang.

I’ve had mixed results with cheap crimpers, but I’ve heard that the IWISS SN-48B do a pretty good job. I just haven’t used them myself, so can’t say for sure.

16AWG for the motherboard (24pin+8pin) is highly unnecessary. 18AWG cable can carry 7A (84W) PER WIRE safely under 3ft distances plus it is much easier to group the wires in the angle I made.

16AWG wire can carry about 13A (156W) per wire safely and is more suitable for GPU wiring.

I used any brand wire cutters. Crimp tool is Iwiss: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMMZ502

And yes, those are the exact items I bought from moddiy.com.

I had to trim off about 4-5mm off of the end of each connector so that the pin end is flush with the end of the connector.

No worries, you've got a good mindset to learn and no time like the present.

I'll add that most swear by solder and heatshrink + electrical tape. This is nice once you're really acclimated but you'll likely end up reconnecting things several times as you tinker and expand. I'll list below my couple of absolute favorite things I've picked up over the years and why I bought it:

Ratcheting Wire Crimper-- Can't tell you how many crimps have failed just because I didn't apply enough force. The ratchet ensures you get that final click down.

And a pricier ratchet I invested in over time-- Nice because it's more modular but not needed.


Posi Twists and also Posi Taps-- These make for quick connections + testing. Various sizes available but I tend to get some that cover 14+, and another set for smaller gauges ~22+

Solder Seal Wire Connectors-- I started buying these in bulk recently because they're just stupidly easy to use and make a rather quick and solid connection. Soldering is another experience onto itself if you've never done it before. While I tend to do more circuit-board soldering than wire to wire, it's all relatively similar and you'll find certain products that you fancy more over time. The biggest thing I'd say here is to buy solder WITH lead. Can't tell you how much frustration I've had over shit solder, haha.

My most recent wire stripper-- I chose because it has the largest range of gauges and there's no internal spring that forces the stripper open. Having one tool to do 10awg all the way to 26 is pretty sweet.

I justified it by simply installing permanent cable in my house. The pass through holes in those jacks allows you to get a perfectly tight crimp every time. And the rubber sleeves add a little more durability to the connection. the real expense is the crimper, a few dollars in jacks isn't that big of a deal. If you already have a crimper, you can probably get away with just manually cutting the overhang off.

The biggest expense is really the cable. You could go with plenum or just go with the cheapest cat 6 you can find. When I bought some a few months ago, I found 1k feet of plenum rated for 240. They are out of stock though: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BBNIGBK/

I also used these keystones: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0048HGV36/ But that was more about not needing a punch tool.

Also don't forget one of these. They are awesome at stripping the jacket. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AIBH3B0/

>I'm fairly ignorant of electric systems on boats.


I hope you're comfortable with how basic 12VDC electrics work and are asking about how to wire them in a marine environment.


Preface, I'm not a certified marine electrician but I've done a ton of work re-wiring, custom work on all kinds of sail and power boats.


Tools:
>I do have a cheap harbor freight multi-meter

good, now you're going to need a way to crimp those shitty connectors and some dielectric grease.


Unless of course you want to solder all your connections (this is my preference as it doesn't vibrate loose or corrode as quickly), then follow NASA's soldering method s and yuu'll need some rosin cored solder and and a soldering iron, you'll also need to use a crimp connector without the pre-molded shrink wrap and some heat shrink tubing


Ok... got your tools? great, now for supplies.


You'll need a buss bar on your ground


Measure how much wire you need, (are you re-wiring the mast?) and use 14/2 AWG marine grade wire.


If you're only using 1 battery you can get away with a simple switch like this. From the devices & lights you listed It sounds like you can use 10AWG to connect your battery to your switch then to the 14 gang panel.


You'll need a way to label your wires, I use one of these but if you're doing one job you might want to use something cheaper.

Ok... now on the to the fun part


Plan where you're going to mount your panel and pull a single RED 10AWG from there to your battery shut off switch and another strand from you battery to the switch.


Pull 10 AWG from the battery to the buss bar.


pull all the 14awg from the lights to the panel labeling each 14/2 wire as you go


red goes to the fuse block, black goes to the buss bar then to the negative on the gang block, label everything at the connection points, big red wire goes from battery switch to the bolt on the 14 gang, big black wire goes to the buss bar.


install new things, as each device is hooked up test the fuse and switch, then install the new thing.

Edit: I forgot to mention, use dielectric grease on all metal fittings to reduce corrosion.


edit 1: put a fuse between your battery and shut off ont the red wire

Platinum Tools 100054C Clamshell EZ-RJPRO HD Crimp Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k2Z6CbXKTBCPQ

This is what I use at work. Great tool. Really heavy duty. But also a pretty penny. Work bought em and I can say it is honestly one tool that I have that's quality.

I have the Leatherman Charge AL and love it. It's my EDC. Very durable and the I am surprised I haven't messed up the the wire cutter or the stripper yet. I wish the Charge AL had replaceable wire cutters like the Surge.
Also, if you are going to be cutting and crimping a lot, get a dedicated tool.

I did my last PC with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4L8QMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

you can pull pins with two staples plenty easy. Its really pretty easy. Just triple check your pinout with a multimeter on the donor and replacement cables.

These Titan crimper are pretty great,

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-11477-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B0069TRKJ0

I use panduit brand crimpers at work that they pay close to $1000 for, these are every bit as good in my opinion and they are $25

Yes! Use these all the time with great success. You'll need the crimpers to go with them as they cut off the extra wire.

All the cat5 cables ive seen have 4 pairs; blue, brown, green and orange/red and a striped counterpart. In the image posted it looks like the colors are still there, they just went with different patterns and shades.

So im seeing the orange one come out of the wall, and it LOOKS like its going into the third block from the left, but i notice its actually connected to the second from the left, so its matched with the solid orange. The fourth from the left appears to be the solid greens, as i can also see the third block contains the striped greens (as well as some of the leftover from the wall cable). And of course the far right block houses the orange striped wires. So it looks like someone was bridging the orange and green pairs, but the green striped line is broken or cut on purpose.

So like i said before if it was coming from the phone line we would only need 2 to get data to the modem, but as this is coming from a router, itll need most, if not all, of the 8 wires connected. There is a guide to wiring all this up and it goes by color of the wires, but thats just a guide and may not always be the case in how it was actually wired up.

This is how a standard ethernet cable is hooked up

Also cat 5e is just a cat5 cable that can handle more data and is better shielded so thats a non issue.

So long story short, its looks like all of them need to be hooked back up. All the suggestion in my first post should still be valid and if i were doing it i would probably run a whole new cat5 cable from the router to the pc. Failing being able to do that, i would trim up the cables in your pic, crimp new heads on following the diagram color chart, and patch them together with a female-to-female rj45 patch socket. Failing ability to do that, i would solder each wire to the other and shrink tube the joint. And lastly i would resort to twisting them together with electrical tape, or using a wire block like in your pic to join them and throw the whole thing in an enclosure like a plastic bag or something lol. Basically anything to get those wires touching and not falling apart will net some degree of success.

You'll need:

Edge trimmers

Cat5 head crimper

F2F rj45 coupler

Cat5 heads

Something similar to this 8 wire bus bar will work, but smaller would be better

And thats about it, depending on how you decide to go about the repair. Also no problem at all. shoot me another message if anything else pops up and ill help however i can.

That looks like a JST XH-series but one picture with no measurements is a chancy way to identify it.

The terminals are cheap (assuming the right series, of course). Pennies, if you buy 25 or more, which is recommended if you're not experienced with crimping small terminals like that. You'll need a proper crimper. The Engineer PA-09 works well with practice. I prefer their PAD series for flexibility but that's probably overkill, here.

RJ45 connectors do not exists, because RJ45 is not a connector--it is a jack. If you will search for the correct name for the product, which is an 8P8C connector, as well as whether you're crimping it onto solid (yes, they exists and work fairly well) or stranded wire, you will get higher quality connectors.

Edit to add more: And this brings me to my next concern, that you're probably making cables out of riser cable--if you bought it in a 1000 foot spool and didn't seek out "patch cable material," you're almost certainly using lateral (usually designated CM, or CMG), riser (CMR) or plenum (CMP) cable. The blades in these ends are not designed to crimp into the solid wire in any in-wall-rated cable. Does it work? Mostly, but not terribly reliably. They do make ends designed for solid wire, where the blades are flared a bit from side-to-side, but they're not something I can say a lot about as far as reliability. Our wiring guys would either refuse to put a mod-end on solid wire, or we would certainly refuse to warrant it if the customer insisted on it.

You can buy stranded wire in 1000' boxes. That is just the first link I found and in no way is a recommendation for Belkin cable.

Lastly, you may just not be getting a good crimp and the cable just might not be seating properly. A good ratcheting crimper from a major manufacturer might help you out a lot.

I don’t but it’s pretty straightforward once you look inside the CST. I’d get something like this so you don’t have to reuse the connector inside, that way you can leave the old cable mostly intact Incase the new one has issues.

These are the things I bought. You could get by without some of the wire cutting tools. The crimper is kinda necessary, and I'd definitely buy the molex hand tool for pushing the wire into the SATA connector. Much easier than using a screwdriver.

16 AWG Guage Wire

Wire Stripper (you can get by without this)

Flush Cutter (probably not necessary but nice to have)

Crimping Tool

SATA Power Connector

SATA Passthrough Cap

SATA Terminal/End-of-Line Cap

Molex Hand Tool <-- buy the real thing, mimics on Amazon aren't as good

ATX Header Pins (these are 18 AWG which are a little small for 16 AWG gauge wire)

ATX Header Housing

For 80% of hardware work you just need a good, solid multi-tipped magnetic screwdriver and a pez dispenser full of excedrin.

Toss in a power supply tester like a Dr. Power II and you have nearly all hardware tools you need.

Just be aware that many software tools on Hirens are only licensed for personal use, using them for professional use would be a violation of license agreement.

If you're going to be checking networks, you're going to want a good fluke toner, and a fluke voltage tester so you don't kill yourself

You're also going to want a cat5 crimper that won't break

If you're troubleshooting big networks then pick up a fluke microscanner II, but only if it will save you several thousand bucks in effort.

Get a Patch Panel, a Punch Down tool, a ethernet crimper, some ethernet ends (i prefer the EZ, but they are pricy), and a network tester. All that for $70 and you can terminate and troubleshoot all the cables you desire!

My personal kit is a little more expensive, but really the only thing I wouldn't trade for a cheaper tool is the tester. Crimper, Punchdown, Tester.

If you're going to run wire more than once, look at the EZ Crimper.

Looks great, no idea how good it really is.

http://smile.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-EZ-RJ45-Crimp-RJ-11/dp/B00084Y1ZI?sa-no-redirect=1

I bought this one and some random bits for it (not sure what they're called, maybe pin housing?), and everything works great.

$23 isn't bad. The end result is worth it, and it's much faster than soldering for me

A coax line would not work, because it cannot be used in place if an Ethernet line. A cable modem (which is the only device that will except a Coax, requires a CMTS (Cable Modem Termination System) in order for it to function. CMTS's are thousands of dollars. You could use an Ethernet over power, which is the power line adapter you are talking about. The only issue, an especially with old houses, the wiring is done in sections. Which is why you have circuit breakers for turning off parts of the house, without needing to turn the whole house off. In other words, you wont be successful with the Power Line Adapter, because your room is most likely in a different section of the house, than the modem. Also, appliances that use large amounts of energy, such as washers, dryers, microwaves and fridges can cause your latency to spike up into the 4000ms (You can see how Ethernet over Power didn't really catch on).

Your best option, is buying a 350 ft of CAT 5 Cable, and fishing it up to your room. This will require Crimpers and CAT 5 ender and cable tester. This will cost you about $50 dollars, and it's really easy to do. Here is a Guide



Edit: Never heard of MoCA adapter's apparently that works too

I recomend getting one of these,should be available from amazon ger https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-20-Universal-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B002AVVO7U

If that one is not available mdpcx has excellent crimper.You can also get sleeving from them

If you want to go full budget get paracord from ebay,heatshrink from local electronic shop or something along those lines.

I recomend getting atx terminals from ebay or ali just watch out that they MUST have long tabs(thing that go into cable).When i ordered some connectors i got extra pins which have sjort tabs and cant grip the cable good enough.

Connectors also from ebay/ali.Pm me if u want to know something morw

Each cable is for each room would this work You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.

UbiGear Cable Tester +Crimp Crimper... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

It comes with the crimper tool the cable tester the RJ45 connectors all for $15.

I used this when I ran CAT5e for my Security Cameras and I had to make sure the cable still worked after pulling through the run and the cable tester worked great. Just plug in a short CAT6 cable in each room and attach the cable tester then go to your utility room and hook up the other end of the tester until it passes, label and move on.

Best connection is to use non-insulated connectors and a proper crimper.

Then protect them with shrink tubing. It's worth having these supplies around because they are so much easier, faster, and more reliable than solder.

I often use RJ45 jacks so I can use any standard Ethernet cable and easily change cable lengths.

I love the ratcheting crimpers with the interchangeable dies. You just need the right dies for the job and can crimp about anything. https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Professional-Insulated-Connectors-Ratcheting/dp/B01IQIALJC/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496949252&sr=1-6&keywords=ratcheting+crimpers

I think the patent on these must have ran out because they used to be expensive and now there are many makers of varying quality. The last $20 pair I bought worked as well as the $80 pair from 20 years ago.

I'm sure sure what you mean. Are you using keystone jacks, or just making your own male connectors with a crimper?

You need four connected wires in total, because if you have something like 6 functional wires in there instead of 8, your network equipment might try to negotiate at gigabit, and it won't work. Whereas if you have 4 wires at positions 1,2,3,6, it'll go straight to 100mbps, afaik.

Edit: If you were using a pre-terminated cable that you are now modifying, you'll need buy a crimper.

You buy the $25 ratcheting ones from amazon.


I have some $600 - $900 crimpers, but DuPont like in the picture doesn’t require it.

There’s a lot of skill involved with it, don’t solder your wires to the pins, take the time and get good with them.


IWISS SN-28B Crimping Tool for AWG28-18 Dupont Pins https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OMM4YUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eKYSDb81BFEFY

So a crimper like THIS would work fine for the EZ terminals? And then trim the ends with cutters?

The Engineer PA-09 is one of the best "small pin" crimping tools for hobbyists. They aren't dirt cheap, but they are worth $40-$50 price, which is cheap compared to official tools from connector manufacturers. I own a PA-09 and highly recommend it. If you never crimp the smallest pins, then a PA-20 or PA-21 might be better for you.

-----

Info about each crimp tool:

• http://www.engineer.jp/en/products/pa09e.html (PA-09 and PA-20)
  
  
• http://www.engineer.jp/en/products/pa21e.html (PA-21)
  
  -----
  
  Tables for "die size" to use for each connector family of each brand JST, Molex, AMP, JAE, HRS:
  
  
• http://www.engineer.jp/en/products/pa09_20applicatn_chart.html
  
  
• http://www.engineer.jp/en/products/pa21applicatn_chart.html
  
  -----
  
  Amazon:
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-09-Micro-Connector-Crimpers/dp/B002AVVO7K
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-20-Universal-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B002AVVO7U
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-21-Universal-Crimping-Pliers/dp/B002L6HJ8W
  
  -----
  

As an 06 (low voltage technician) this hurts me to see x.x there are other options for repair that would be much better than this current set up. Here's a few methods;

1. For under $5 you can get these [IDC connectors]
   (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Yellow-IDC-Connectors-25-per-Pack-85-950/100036034)
   
   basically you put both ends of the cut cable inside color for color then use pliers to push the yellow button down. If you're able to trim the cable a bit then you could maintain the twist going into these connecters (the twist is important) and it'll be a fairly solid splice. I believe their also gel filled so the copper won't tarnish. It has some protection.
   
   
2. For around $20 you can get this punchless termination tool plus two cat 5e Jack's and a short patch cable
   
   This method would add solid connections all the way through. Even though you experience a little loss at each jack, it would probably be negligible for home use. You'd just terminate the two Jack's and plug them in to one another.
   
   
3. For around $28-$30 you could get the [punchless termination tool] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ADWQHK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uAArDbNF31QH4)
   One Cat5e jack and an Rj45 crimper tool that comes with Rj45 connectors (Ethernet plug ins) and a 4 pair tester you could use to verify you punched it all down correctly. The idea here is you'd plug the cable with the Rj45 termination directly into the Cat5e jack. It's similar to the last method, youll just have one connection instead of two.
   
   
   Spend any more than that and you're better off just replacing the cable all together.
   
   Keep in mind, I don't do these quick fixes professionally unless it's a matter of safety (a customer that deals with life safety calls, etc) and need to be up while replacing their data drop. The most ideal method would be to replace the cable entirely, but any of thes could work fine. Also leaves less of a headache for the next guy.

I just bought a Rosewill Gigabit card for $10. Works great. I also bought a cheap 8-port Gig switch, stress boots, RJ-45 terminators, and a pair of crimpers. Someone had given me most of a box of Cat5e. So, for something like $80 I ran Gigabit Ethernet in my crawlspace and now have a fat wired LAN in addition to wireless. It makes backups and streaming HD movies fly.

This one.
Titan Tools 11477 Ratcheting Wire Terminal Crimper Tool for Insulated Terminals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WhCZDbV7P6FNJ

Doesn’t crimp the blue too well. I Have to crimp blue connectors down to the red but other than that works great for red and yellow connectors.

This is the crimper that I am using and its holding up very nice and works great.

Crimping will work, its not that hard to do, just gotta make sure you have enough leverage on the tool to get the connector attached, a tool like this makes it pretty easy to get it done: https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-11477-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B0069TRKJ0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483233152&sr=8-2&keywords=crimping+tool
I would normally recommend soldering the ends on to the connector and heat shrinking. I hate seeing soldered connections directly to the switches so I would never say to do that, but sounds like you should start with crimping and see if that works out.

Here are some links for those of you that do need to make cables and have the terrible misfortune of not knowing about EZ-RJ45 ends. And here are the crimpers that go with those awesome ends. There are a more expensive set of ratcheted crimpers, but I've never used them. This combo of crimpers and ends makes perfect cables every time.

I have used Klein tools crimper and it does a good job, as I have had zero issues with cables i've made with it:

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-VDV226-011-SEN-Ratcheting-Stripper/dp/B002D3B97U/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479150358&sr=1-1&keywords=klein+network+crimper

As for a switch I don't know all to much about them. I actually need to start looking for one soon. One of the networking guys I work with suggested the NETGEAR ProSAFE JGS524NA. 24 Port Gigabit. Over $100+ but he said he loves his.

There's this RJ45 cable tester that's a part of this kit (crazy how popular this model is), if you don't have one and if you just moved in, you might find it useful to double check to make sure the cabling is "correct", and that all 4 pairs/8 wires are actually working.

https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network-Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0

This is the easiest way to make ethernet cables:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00939KFOU

Costs a bit more, but pass through connectors are so much nicer to do.

I really think Cat8 is overdoing it.

Cat 5E is usually just fine, and cheaper

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AZLS6Y

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034B3KYU

Cat 7 is plenty

https://smile.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-Connector-Clamshell-100024C/dp/B07B1K7M9X

https://smile.amazon.com/Platinum-Connector-100pcs-Twisted-Diameter/dp/B07QD73YXJ/ref=sr_1_3

Crimp with pliers and solder works but is ghetto. The crimper is dirt cheap compared to years ago.

Like you said; Deans is best.

http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-EZ-RJ45-Crimp-RJ-11/dp/B00084Y1ZI

https://mcb.berkeley.edu/labs/krantz/pdf/guide_to_crimping_cat5_cat6_connectors.pdf

On the one hand the connector itself is a pain in the dick, but on the other hand it is nice to have a modular connector that you can actually repair on the fly.

Any ratchet style crimper would be best. The good ones allow you to set tension. Fluke or Klein. Edit Links.

https://www.amazon.ca/Fluke-Networks-11212530-Modular-Crimper/dp/B000E5VAXW

https://www.amazon.ca/VDV226-011-SEN-Ratcheting-Modular-Crimper-Stripper/dp/B002D3B97U

I use this one which I understand is the one you linked is a copy of. I've only crimped <10 connectors (JST-RCY and dupont) but it works great.

Not sure about the one you listed, but this is what I use and it works perfectly.

I had the same exact question for DIY subreddit a few months ago looking to do the same thing as you. Forget about the patch panel and the big box stores. Don't spend a ton of money. You are just wiring a couple rooms. You can get everything off Amazon or ebay for cheap. If you don't care about phone service then just cut the cables and crimp on new. Then plug all the crimped ends into a switch. No need for a panel. You can get a tester for cheap at amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-HDE-H11-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B000P1OA1O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1346567376&sr=8-2&keywords=network+cable+tester

I bought and used that one and it worked great. Probably not the best out there, but for a one time simple project to get a few rooms online it is more than enough.

The only thing to spend some money on is the punch down tool (Although doesn't look like you may need one based on your wall jacks). The ones that come free with other stuff are useless and will waste your time and wiring. This one worked well for me:
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346567733&sr=1-1&keywords=TRENDnet+Punch+Down+Tool+with+110+and+Krone+Blade+TC-PDT


Crimping is easy as hell if you use connectors like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JCVI6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

The crimping tool by the same brand actually cuts the excess wiring while you crimp. I did about 10 crimps and all worked perfect the first time. I bought a EZ RJ-45 $60 crimp tool from someone on ebay. Then sold it for the same amount two weeks later when I finished using it.

Get the EZ crimper

Get the EZ connectors

Here's what I have found handy around the house:

• Diagonal cutters
  
• Punch Down tool
  
• Cable Tester. Though, they do have a version that also has a tone generator.
  
• I just got this RJ45 crimper but I am not sure that I like the pass through plugs. Hard to keep the wires in order when putting them into the plug. I still have my old RJ45/RJ11 crimper as a fallback.
  
• Stripping tool. I use this to remove the cable jackets, but it also comes in handy for terminating coax cables.
  
  I think the odds of me crimping RJ11/RJ12 are pretty slim, so I don't worry about that ability.

There are a few things you'll need:

• An ATX/molex pin extractor - This lets you push the individual pins out from the connector so you can reuse the connector.
  
• A crimper - Unfortunately, you'll have to make new pins and that requires crimping. This is what I use.
  
• ATX terminal pins - The newly crimped pins that you'll insert into the connector.
  
• ATX connectors (optional) - If you don't feel like extracting the pins and reusing the connector, you can always just buy the connector. They're very cheap.
  
  I recommend checking out custom sleeving guides as they're essentially doing the same steps except that you're not sleeving. Here's Paul's Hardware's guide to sleeving where you can see how the pin extractor tool works (I forget at what time it happens) and pretty much the whole process of sleeving if you're interested. Here's a faithful FAQ to sleeving that can further answer your questions despite the fact that you're not sleeving.
  
  Good luck!

use this for the crimp on connectors

Ratcheting crimpers technically work better, but I don't like them for the red/blue/yellow multi gauge connectors, as they crimp to a specific size, and if your wire gauge doesn't match that size, you get a bad crimp.

The Klein tool I linked above lets you get a solid crimp regardless of your wire gauge, and has a long handle to give you good mechanical advantage so you don't have to squeeze the crap out of the tool to get that good crimp. In fact, it is easily possible to over crimp, so watch out for that.

All you need is a (cheap) punch down tool and some sort of a patch panel. It's really not that hard. If you have to pull any insulation back you might want to use a stripper. But you can probably just get away with small dykes. Just try and keep the twist as close to the punch down as you can---but it doesn't have to be perfect to work.

Also, there are two wiring standards 568A and 568B. They have to match on each end so you might want to pull one of your wall jacks to see how it is wired. Just Google for a wiring diagram to see the difference. Or your jack and panel might actually have both color coded on them and you can see which way they did the jacks.

I aways have used the B standard. IIRC the A standard provided backward compatibility with old AT&T standards. But if your jacks are A I would not change them to B.

I’d recommend getting a cheap dupont connector kit and a decent crimper. The plastic dupont housings are a huge pain, if not impossible, to print effectively because of the little plastic clip used to hold in the crimped-on male or female connector. There are plenty of YouTube videos about it once you know what you’re looking for. :)

This is the kit I’ve used for awhile:

QLOUNI 620Pcs 2.54mm Pitch JST SM 1 2 3 4 5 6 Pin Housing Connector Dupont Male Female Crimp Pins Adaptor Assortment Kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0774NMT1S

And this is the crimped I’ve used for dupont and jst connectors (like the white ones for thermistor/endstop)

IWISS IWS-3220M Micro Connector Pin Crimping Tool 0.03-0.52mm² 32-20AWG Ratcheting Crimper for D-Sub,Open Barrel suits Molex,JST,JAE,TYCO-E

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WPT5M1

Stay away from the cheaper “jaws” style crimp tools, btw. They’re a nightmare.

With those tools, some female to female breadboard wires, and a pair of snips I was able to wire up a 6-pin header to hook up to the Pi for SPI flashing. For the SKR boards I did a similar thing with the 5-pin SWD connector.

Left both SPI and SWD headers hooked up to my Pi’s GPIO pins and dangling out it’s case so I can just grab the Pi and flash whenever I need to, which is handy when doing a lot of tinkering and bricking things by accident. :)

Yes that's the one. Just match the colors with the harness that comes with the deck that you buy. Join the wires with crimp caps or butt connectors, or solder and heat shrink if you feel comfortable.

http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector--100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C/

You need a special crimping tool. You could possibly get away with something you already have.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/

Or, I guess, some screw on wire nuts and then zip tie or tape it together.

Remove the screws from the factory deck and put your new deck into the bracket with the pocket, the new deck should have the holes there.

Well I'll be the first one to give you generic information that you could have found with the search function.

You just do the needful.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/032194318X/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3IXCECMPTZ0C5&coliid=IJFXHOHENJ2FH

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0321492668/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3IXCECMPTZ0C5&coliid=I3J2AR8V86JZMD

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0596007833/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3IXCECMPTZ0C5&coliid=I2OPTI4J0S4UG2

Good screwdriver set.

https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/64-Bit-Driver-Kit/IF145-299

A network tone tester in case you need to map out your network and document everything. Also functions as a basic cable tester.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MT-8200-60-KIT-IntelliTone-Toner/dp/B00N2S6RPY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473701817&sr=8-5&keywords=fluke+networks+tester

A punch down tool.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473702091&sr=8-1&keywords=punchdown

An ethernet crimper.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RJ-45-RJ-12-RJ-11-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473702137&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+crimper

A quick cable stripper.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Stripper-Cutter-Cables-107051/dp/B0069LRBU6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473702190&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+stripper

A usb hard drive dock.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473702021&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+hard+drive+dock

A notebook.

https://www.amazon.com/Rhodia-Meeting-Book-Made-France/dp/B001DCDSW6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473702220&sr=8-1&keywords=rhodia+meeting+book

Your necessities may vary, this applies to more of a one-man shop, and there's plenty of other things you'll want to get that I don't have listed here depending on your job.

I dunno how much you should get paid.

Get a decent crimping tool and a cheap tester to make sure your pairs are matching up on both sides. I do this for work and home and will never go back to buying Ethernet cables at specific lengths.
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RJ-45-RJ-12-RJ-11-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0DZ16D14CWPHKTYK159J

https://www.amazon.com/HDE-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B009ZXYI1U/ref=lp_7701919011_1_7?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1524075376&sr=1-7

Also, if you plan on running multiple cables, I suggest using different color boots so your cable can all be the same color (since you're buying it in bulk) but the boots are different colors to help note which cable goes where.
https://www.amazon.com/Accessbuy-Ethernet-Network-Strain-Connector/dp/B01LYLGWSY/ref=pd_bxgy_469_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01LYLGWSY&pd_rd_r=MMCFM6WPJ3Y2Y3H7M3WA&pd_rd_w=3qix5&pd_rd_wg=S3Y6R&psc=1&refRID=MMCFM6WPJ3Y2Y3H7M3WA
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RJ-45-RJ-12-RJ-11-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0DZ16D14CWPHKTYK159J

Depends on your ends. If you're using fancy Ez push through Cat 6's like: https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2 Then I'd get the platinum tools one to match https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00939KFOU&pd_rd_r=47RDY57AQH3AGVVSSR90&pd_rd_w=aewvk&pd_rd_wg=Fsm6F&psc=1&refRID=47RDY57AQH3AGVVSSR90 since it'll cut the cables off as you crimp.

Otherwise I'd go with Klein's. Their data cable stuff is very good.

True. Didn't think about the other side, just saw duppnt the dupont and went on auto pilot. 😂

Here is a kit with both!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R1H3Z8X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdo_t1_mJM2Db8YDPD2T

Get yourself a punch down tool as it will make the wiring process much easier, also make sure the data cable is anchored somewhere in the box so it's not pulled free from those crimp connections.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D

I had Cat6 run in my house a few years ago and had the electrician run one end into a closet and leave them unterminated. I patched them to this patch panel myself (even though I have nearly no electrical or wiring experience) using this punch down tool. It's a bit time consuming, but not hard at all. You can wall mount or rack mount (this is what I did) the patch panel then run short cat6 patch cables from the patch panel to your switch. If you do it yourself, be sure the electrician leaves a few extra feet on the unterminated end in the closet, just to give you some flexibility, and that he or she lets you know which standard was used on the terminated ends (since there's an A and a B standard and you'll have to know which to use on the patch panel).

Extremely easy, you just need a crimp tool and a couple extra heads.

Then just follow a wiring diagram.

(Some are wired differently, if you have it plugging into a switch or a router, just make sure the order matches the order on the other end of the cable)

Pulling out the speaker yourself might be the easiest way to find out what speakers you have.

If this is something you're interested in you will need:

• 
  A pair of crimpers, I suggest Klein crimpers.
  
  
• Butt connectors. You'll probably need 10-12 gauge (yellow) butt connectors.
  
  You'll need to pull the sub out as far as you can, then snip the wires (leave 5-6" of wire coming off of the subwoofer), check the model number, then use the butt connectors to re-attach the wires.
  
  

I've been burned before shopping from the US (my mistake, I should have said where I was).

By the time items get to the uk I have ended up paying double or triple the items true value.

I've had a look around, only thing I can find that looks half way decent is this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B007NE8AIA

Is there anything in particular that sets the pro linear apart from other tools?
Thanks

well, rj45 plugs and a crimping tool.
something like this.

Do check the outlets if they have been wired properly. Mostly they are color coded and should be either in A or B variable. Wikipedia has a list of how they should be put into the connector.

After that connect everything to a switch and it should all work automagically. But this entire setup seriously looks like someone wanted to link multiple phones to one number so I will say you need to check every last wallmount to see if and how they are wired.

If you're looking at crimping (and I'd also recommend it) don't waste time trying to crimp with ordinary pilers, that's a one-way road to tearing your hair out.

The vendor recommended crimping tools are typically very expensive but you can pick up generic crimpers on EBay, something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/quality-universal-crimping-Japanese-Engineer/dp/B002AVVO7K
I'm not recommending that specific seller, they're just the first one that came up in Google. Search for "PA-09 crimping tool"

PCB connector: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/B5B-PH-K-S(LF)(SN)/455-1707-ND/

Housing for cable connector: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/PHR-5/455-1163-ND/

If you just want to fix it, I'd say cut/break the plastic away from the crimps, use two pairs of needlenose pliers to pull the pins out of the existing crimps, and put them into a new housing. If you're going to make your own cable, you'll also need crimps, good wire strippers, and a crimping tool: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/jst-sales-america-inc/SPH-002T-P0.5S/455-1127-1-ND/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WNZ9FW/

Get a lot of extra crimps if you go the make your own cable route. Really easy to mess one up and have to redo several if you want to get everything even. In particular you need to be extremely careful with the insulation part of the crimp, or it won't stay aligned with the other side as you crimp it. Took me about 5 tries to get my first good crimp and about 20 crimps to get a full connector with all good crimps and everything even. The tool I linked is the one I use, with the 1.3mm die for the copper portion of the crimp, and the 1.6mm die then the 1.3mm die for the insulation portion of the crimp. It's good enough I wouldn't spend twice as much for the engineer crimpers, let alone several hundred dollars for the "official" tool.

Honestly, if you go the make your own cable route, you're probably better off buying pre-crimped cables, and soldering your own USB connector.

another LPT: engineer crimpers are a thousand times better than the ratcheting style. But double the price, and yes you need two to cover every style of crimp out there.

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-09-Micro-Connector-Crimpers/dp/B002AVVO7K/
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-20-Universal-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B002AVVO7U/

vs cheaper ratcheting
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4L8QMW/

I use this one all the time. I have the one that mrsix recommended as well, but I like this one a lot better.

edit: don't fall for that ez-rj45 nonsense

If you're getting a crimper, I highly recommend the Platinum tools ez rj-45 crimper and ez rj-45 connectors. This has changed my cabling making game.


crimprer

cat 5e connectors


[strain relief, optional but look prettt] ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034B3KYU/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_BLIrtb16NPMC2)



Platinum tool jacket stripper

I would use butt connectors like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Insulated-Connector-Electrical-Connectors/dp/B01D4Q3LD4/ref=pd_lpo_60_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=29Y5KK6BXQXS0BJPSJW6

You will need a crimp tool like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/ref=sr_1_16?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1483639979&sr=1-16&keywords=crimp+tool

You can buy a crimp tool at Harbor Freight that will get you by for a lot less money.

The Engineer PA-09 is the only one worth having for those little guys. They have a thin jaw that works well on the really short-depth terminals, but this makes them annoying to use on larger (automotive and stuff) terminals.

For larger terminals (common "dupont" up to large automotive stuff), just get these and be done with it. They're the best and most universal I've found in yeeeears of horsing around with this stuff. Their jaw is too thick for the small JST stuff, however.

Those two crimpers cover 99% of the open-barrel terminals in the world, for roughly $100 combined.

I find making the cables to be the nicest looking.

• Tool kit: Lamptron Modding Tool Kit - $21.99
  
• Crimper: IWISS SN-48B Pin Crimping Tool - $18.98
  
• Paracord - Paracord Planet Type III 7 Strand 550 Paracord - $6.59
  
• Cable Cutter - Hakko CHP-170 Micro Soft Wire Cutter - $5.99
  
• Knife - Gerber EAB Lite Pocket Knife - $9.00
  
• Combs - 24 Pin PC Cable Comb - $6.49
  
  I find the tool kit, cable cutter, knife and combs to be necessary. However you could use scissors instead of the knife and cutter, go without the combs, and use paper clips and small screwdrivers instead of the tool kit.
  
  The paracord has a million options and is very cheap. Buy too much.
  
  If you're really careful, you don't need heatshrink. However if you need it, it's really cheap.

If you're dead-set on terminating with male ends instead of punching them down, try this instead: https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2

More pricey, you need their special tool but it'll be the last one you'll buy.

Otherwise, do what everyone else said. Punchdown tool is like 10-15 online for a decent one. Jacks are cheap.

These things are awesome.

I bought this crimper and it works great on JST:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGLKBSK

AFTER I bought it, I found THIS one:

https://smile.amazon.com/Crimping-0-08-1-0-18-28AWG-Ratcheting-Connector/dp/B01N1RFZZ4

Which does JST and many more than the first. Grrrr.

PuterPro

I don't have any experience with any other crimpers than the ones I mentioned above but these are pretty highly rated. You might also consider using heat shrink/solder butt connectors. I've got the kit I linked to here and have been impressed with it. You will need a heat gun though but no crimping involved. Just use enough heat to melt the solder and shrink the heat shrink .

Speaker Wire Colors:

Front Left: +/- Tan/Grey

Front Right: +/- Light Green/Dark Green

Rear Left: +/- Brown/Yellow

Rear Right: +/- Dark Blue/Light Blue

Use this to reroute the wires from the amp, then back to the head unit. The speaker wires will be in a twisted pair on the output side of the amp, Easiest way is to test the wires by tapping the positive and negative wires on a 9Volt battery to see if you get a response. If you get a response, you have the right wires. (ask if you are unsure of how to do this.
http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGW9920-Conductor-Speedwire-Black/dp/B002ODEZ1G

Use this to connect the wires the easiest way:
http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CC2218-Connector-100-Pack/dp/B005HQ4T6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452138077&sr=8-1&keywords=crimp+caps

Using this tool:(or something similar)
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1452138134&sr=8-24&keywords=crimp+tool

Thanks! I've purchased these JST-HXP connectors and this crimping tool. Is that right?

As u/manarius5 point out the cat-5 cable is setup as phone; and you will need to change it over to network.

Best option is to get a patch panel, a punch down tool, jacks, 2x WAP; maybe this one. You might or might not need a switch, you might also want to consider going with POE to power the WAP. You would also want to get some cat-5 jumpers.

Please make sure your parents are not using POTS( plain old telephone); if they are, you can still do this, but would need to proceed with caution. Install new wall jacks, install new punch down block down stairs; when punching down, follow the color coding for A or B, dosn't matter which, just keep it the same on both sides. Move Comcast modem next to the location in your pictures. Setup the WAPs on either side of your house, plug the Roku in hard wire. This setup would use 3 ports on the Comcast modem/router, so no switch needed.

If your parents are still using the phone, only move the jacks to network that you are going to use.

A more advance solution would be to go with a wall mounted rack, Ubiquiti equipment for router, switching and WAPS, buy a cable modem and return the Comcast unit.

Well I won't be using crimpers intended for uninsulated terminals on insulated terminals.

It just seems like to keep there isn't much of a difference between heat shrink and normal nylon insulated terminals.

Here is an example of what im looking at:

Heat shrink:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKJSNS7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PkqSBb9NG7Z5H

Nylon insulated:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_moqSBbS3MZWRJ

I've gotten mine from Digi-Key, shipping can sometimes cost more than the items especially on small orders though. The Engineer PA-09 crimper seems to be the most recommended tool for the variety of micro connectors our hobby uses, I've only had issue with trying to crimp something smaller than Picoblade connectors like the break out connections on some micro FC boards or VTX's.

Why not buy the right tools and do a proper job?

Bonus: New tools

This is the voltage detector pen that I was telling you about, /u/achstuff:

​

Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Tester, Non Contact Tester for Standard and Low Voltage with 3-m Drop Protection

​

These are the RJ-45 Ethernet jacks that I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079K7XMGQ/

​

This is the crimper that I use (the wires pass through the jacks and then this cuts them)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00939KFOU/

​

And this is the tester that I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQH4XPW/

​

I have some other tools which I can list, but this the base set that you'd want to use to get rolling. The nice part about these particular jacks is that their bin's outside label has the diagram for the T568B standard (which you'll want to use (assuming you're crimping both sides of the cable) unless you're trying to match T568A)

Thanks for explaining. 1000ft of cat5e, a bag of connectors (and covers) plus the crimping tool and tester

Here are the links for exactly what I bought.

SolidLink CAT5e 1000ft Premium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019POIH2E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

UbiGear Cable Tester +Crimp... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Three Pack of Your Cable Store 15... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYLGWSY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The original Maestro comes with all the connectors needed, if you bought a clone it may not. In that case just get yourself a box full. I soldered the connectors of the KF2510 to the original wiring loom which was very tedious work, even so I am fairly experienced with soldering. The much better method is to use a proper crimping tool, the one I bought of AliExpress just didn’t arrive in time…

Edit: no DuPont needed, the drivers are on board and properly wired up.

Nevermind, Amazon show other crimps/connectors, makes perfect sense for low voltage wiring.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Professional-Compression-Ratcheting-Wire-electrode/dp/B00OMM4YUY

These are what I use on the tevo and when I put the e3dv6 on the ender I'll use them there too....

I started them about 6 inches back up the wires from the hot end spaced them out so them aren't one big blob.... used different ones for different things so they can't be switched out and if for some reason a wire pulls loose it doesnt short anything... doing it I can swap out the hot end in minutes, do a PID tune and I'm off to the races.


Connectors and max current rating

Jst-sm for the fans and thermistor - 3amp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTKD7P4/

Mini Tamiya type b for the heater - 10 amp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSD9JJQ/

Jst-xhp are the white connector for stepper motors - 3 amp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTH46S7/

Dupont for the black on the main board - 3 amp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVYPDGS/

These for heated bed - up to 30 amps - solder only, not crimp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H54LZN2/

Crimpers - get the right ones for the pin type in the connectors you buy, you can't use just any old crimper or wing it with these tiny pins and get a good connection that doesn't come apart when things move for hours

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1RFZZ4/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGLKBSK/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMM4YUY/


Since I'm on the subject heated bed wires - large enough to carry the current and with the silicone cover and fine internal strands flexible enough to not break with movement

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9IXL5Q/r

When I was asking about this for the ender 3 /u/robbob2112b gave a very detailed breakdown on what they had done.


> These are what I use on the tevo and when I put the e3dv6 on the ender I'll use them there too....

>I started them about 6 inches back up the wires from the hot end spaced them out so them aren't one big blob.... used different ones for different things so they can't be switched out and if for some reason a wire pulls loose it doesnt short anything... doing it I can swap out the hot end in minutes, do a PID tune and I'm off to the races.


>Connectors and max current rating

>Jst-sm for the fans and thermistor - 3amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTKD7P4/

>Mini Tamiya type b for the heater - 10 amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSD9JJQ/

>Jst-xhp are the white connector for stepper motors - 3 amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTH46S7/

>Dupont for the black on the main board - 3 amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVYPDGS/

>These for heated bed - up to 30 amps - solder only, not crimp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H54LZN2/

>Crimpers - get the right ones for the pin type in the connectors you buy, you can't use just any old crimper or wing it with these tiny pins and get a good connection that doesn't come apart when things move for hours

>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1RFZZ4/
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGLKBSK/
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMM4YUY/


>Since I'm on the subject heated bed wires - large enough to carry the current and with the silicone cover and fine internal strands flexible enough to not break with movement

>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9IXL5Q/r

Just ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002D3B97U/ alongside a wire stripper k1412. Have a feeling that life is about to get easier.

I don't ever make enough custom cables to bother with much more than the standard cheapo. The mechanics of crimping are pretty simple. Find a brand name tool with a life time warrenty or just buy a couple $8 cheapos.

https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network-Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487354206&sr=8-2&keywords=cat6+crimper That little yellow tool or something like it is the deal breaker for me when working on ethernet. (I assume we are talking ethernet.)

That one is a rotating die crimper, but I think "ratcheting crimper for insulated terminals" might be the search-phrase what you are looking for if 12-Gauge is your concern. Very common and useful for automotive use and loudspeaker connections where you want trouble-free installations.

e.g.:

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-11477-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B0069TRKJ0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TZRCD8G

You're also going to need a router/switch to stick where all those runs terminate.

You can buy the tools to do this yourself for pretty cheap and you'll use them in the future. Example: http://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Tester-Crimper-Connector-Network/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450368467&sr=8-2

If you can match colors you can terminate network cables.

you can get a [kit] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008UY5WL0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
for pretty cheap and I got over 700' of cable for $20 on craigslist.

Just so you know in the future, that doesn't look like the proper way to crimp those terminals. I'm guessing you just smashed them with a pair of pliers but you should always use the proper crimper on terminals like that when it matters because the wires can slip out.

IMO you just need a box cutter and wire cutters.

It would also be handy to have a cable tester.

Edit:

>I definitely can't afford them

I call shinannegans. Cheap af

this is what I have for that style of crimp. It's fast, easy, and have yet to have one come off. The three slots are color coded for the gauge connector you're using.

Solder will crack over time. Get a good crimping tool.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0069TRKJ0/ref=zg_bs_553392_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QWH3V4GMWVMMZNSGSMRR

If you bought a standard 110 punchdown like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=110+tool&qid=1566482829&s=diy&sr=1-6 then it has blades for 110 and Krone and you'd be using the Krone blade with it. (That's the type most network engineers in the UK carry, only branded and more expensive.)

They're dupont connectors. You need a set of them like this and a crimper.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752C431F/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0752C431F&pd_rd_wg=FC2o1&pd_rd_r=0GQ3GMPG08T6MJ62D7ZJ&pd_rd_w=N4O51

They're a style of "Molex" connector. You need to buy the connector, the pins and a crimper. Looks like the above kit has the style in the photo.