Is this your first bike?

You should really check out the beginner advice thread and the $200-600 thread in addition to this one. There's a lot of helpful advice in there including SIZING. KNOWING YOUR SIZE IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO KNOW THAT FIRST.

Also, if you're in this price bracket and you don't already have the essential bike accessories:

• A Front Brake and Lever and Cable if you're not sure what sizes you need make a post in the weekly questions thread. Some of the bikes I suggest have one already, but if they don't GET ONE.
  
  
• A Floor Pump
  
  
• A Metric Hex Set
  
  
• A 15mm wrench if your wheels require it (most do)
  
  
• A Lockring Tool 100% essential if you plan to ride fixed
  
  
• Some Grease
  
  
• Good pedals! Clips and straps, bmx straps, or clipless can all benefit greatly from a little extra cash.
  
  
• A helmet
  
  Note there are other options for all of these that could allow you to save money/space/whatever, but you won't go wrong with what I linked. I'd really suggest having these even if it means you go down a price bracket on the actual bike, they'll all come in handy.
  
  

  New Bikes
  

  
  

• An Upgraded Dolan Precursa at £Whateveryouwanttospend is just so customizable and awesome and the pricing is great and really everyone should get this if they can. I'd highly suggest opting for the front brake, miche pistard clincher wheelset (tubular if you're riding track ONLY), and sugino75 crankset options. You can even get direct drives for only £109 extra ( a $500 crankset whaaaat) so that's cool. If you really want to dive headfirst you can get clipless pedals too, but if you don't know what those are definitely make a post in the weekly questions thread.
  
  
• The Specialized Langster at $650 retail is a super solid street and track bike. They go on sale sometimes for less and for $600 or less it's really a no brainer.
  
  
• The Wabi Classic at $750 has been my go to recommendation for a long time. It's made of super high quality steel has excellent customization options, and is all around awesome. The biggest downside is the super relaxed geo. If you want something that rides more like an average road bike check out the Special or Lightning
  
  
• The PoloandBike Williamsburg at £760 is a great option for European riders. The name brand finishing kit and artchetype rims give it that custom bike feel for a good value complete bike. If you swap out the front tire and maybe upgrade the crank this bike can be truly superb.
  
  
• The All-City Big Block at $950 is easily the best looking bike on this list imo, but that aside it's a super ultra double awesome track bike. Really well rounded and could easily be the last fixed gear you buy. One thing to watch out for is the long top tubes that all city loves so much so take a close look at that geo chart.
  
  

  Used Bikes
  

  
  Another great thing about this price bracket is the used market. I daresay it is easy to find outstanding value bikes used in this price range if you know what you're doing. I helped a friend source this for $1100 and we were being choosey! Again, if you need help post in the questions thread or just PM me because I like helping people with this stuff.
  
  
  
  
  
  

Don't worry about the helmet. None are really safer than others, just lighter and stylish.

You don't mention maintenance. You'll want to start cleaning your chain really regularly. Keep it clean and lubricated and it'll last FAR longer for you. You'll probably need a new chain each year too.

You might already know all about bike maintenance, but if not, get a good thick guide like Zinn's guide to bike maintenance, and start reading. Also watch YouTube videos before you try something the first time -- it'll save you tons of pain and money!

The backpack is fine, it'll just make your back really sweaty. Panniers will fix that, not just a rack (that can work though, just get some bungee cords). Panniers and a well designed bag can be great. I have this, and it's very functional, although I hesitate to recommend it as I haven't tried any others for comparison. It clips into a rack by the same manufacturer making it trivial to hold it down.

Topeak Velcro Strap Version Dxp Trunk Bag with Rigid Molded Panels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WSLT2O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_yxC9wb6QSPKM2

Pack a multi tool and probably two spare tubes. Patches are great, but they can't fix everything. I'd also suggest having a plan for a taxi or uber ride. You won't need it, but if you have a flat just before an important meeting, it's good to have a plan in advance.

I'd plan to ride heavy, so light weight upgrades won't help much (losing weight will help way more than any upgrade). The best upgrade you can do is probably puncture resistant tires. $100 will get you a great set that will save you dozens of flats. I love continental gatorskins or continental 4 season tires, but you'll have to do your own research.

You can get great gravel tires that run fine on asphalt in case some light off roading can save you some time.

Finally get lights for night riding. Get a rear red light that has a mode that's on all the time and still flashes brighter. Then people won't lose your position with the strobing, but it'll still grab their attention so you don't get hit by a texting driver. I really like this one, but there are dozens of decent choices.

Cygolite Hotshot 2-Watt USB Rechargeable Taillight with USB Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_GQC9wbAKFWJVD

The front light is critical so you can see at night. I love the light and motion lights. The more expensive versions are really bright for off road riding, but they also give you far more than an hour with the same brightness as cheaper versions. I suggest this one, but as always, it's a pretty personal choice.

Light and Motion Urban 650 Headlight (Silver Moon) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAPC2FG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_IIC9wb7D5E8M1


In order of what I'd purchase first:

Brushes, degreaser and lubricant for the chain if you don't have it.

Rear light for safety.

Front light if you will ever ride at night.

Better tires.

Tools to cover more regular maintenance.

Panniers

Truth is, the best preparation you can do is to acclimate by riding in the cold weather - you'll get used to it.
Having said that, I use certain pieces of gear that really help me out. Here are a few key pieces...

Pogies - insulated bar mitt covers. The go over your handle bars and cut the wind, but are also insulated. You still wear a glove, but this is far better than just a glove or mitt.
Check this site out...
https://bikepacking.com/gear/pogies/

Next, you need to have good head covering.
I use OR Windstopper Balaclava
https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/en/sonic-balaclava/p/2435420001006

Ski goggles are a must.

Wool tube scarf for your neck.

For your torso and chest, you need to layer:
Base layer - I choose merino wool. There are basically 3 thicknesses to choose from.
Wool keeps you warm even if you sweat, dries well, doesn't stink.

Next, insulating layer or layers.
Something warm like a shirt + Polartec jacket - again, 3 different thicknesses depending on you and how cold you get.
Long johns / fleece pants.

Last layer is a shell with at least a wind panel on the front. Gore Windstopper is my #1 choice, but I have many different jackets. I prefer jackets that have pit zips (zippers in the arm pits) so I can ventilate excess heat.

My cycling pants have a wind panel on the front to stop the wind.

Wool socks.
Darn Tough, a Vermont company, guarantees their socks for life - if they ever wear out, they will replace them for free.

Good boots, nothing too big. If you use a cycling shoe, there are insulated covers available for winter use or even winter cycling boots.

Whatever you do - don't let yourself sweat.
You need to find the balance point of being warm without sweating. If you sweat, you will become cold.

It all becomes an attempt at equilibrium - finding that comfortable warm spot without overheating & sweating, or allowing yourself to get cold.

Protect exposed skin especially your face, nose, ears, & cheeks.
Goggles keep your eyes warm, your lashes free from frost, and prevent your eyes from tearing. The polarised lenses help you see better.

As for your bike.
Studded tires - check out Schwalbe tires - actually may help, otherwise a winter tire with a winter rubber compound should do the trick.
Do you necessarily count on your knobby MTN bike tires doing a good job, the rubber may become too hard to properly grip the road or ice.

Lights...go with something detachable that uses a standard battery. Bring your light in to keep it warm.

I'm currently using:

Rear light: Portland Design Works Danger Zone Tail Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00435IPFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-uj5CbV3JHJA6

And a Planet Bike Blaze Front light X 2.

Www.PlanetBike.com

Keep your bike clean - wash the salt off regularly.
CLEAN AND LUBE YOUR CHAIN AND DRIVETRAIN.

At the end of winter, give your bike a deep cleaning.
Change your cables.
Undo your headset, crank, wheel hubs, clean the bearings and repack with new clean grease.
Tune your derailleurs.
Check your chain for stretch and replace if needed.
Check you rear derailleur hangar.
Spray done tube saver in your down tube and you're ready for summer.

Check out these sites for gear.

Www.MEC.ca

Www.Rei.com

Www.Bikepacking.com

on YouTube: GCN & GMBN

Hope the info helps.
Cheers,

There's a lot of good info here, but I disagree with some of it.

• Don't get slicks if you're commuting in a city. You will get flats and it will be a giant pain in the ass. The improvement in handling and efficiency isn't worth it for commuting. Get something a bit thicker and with some decent tread, and make sure they have kevlar linings. Studs are for snow, not rain. Glass, rocks, metal bits, etc. all penetrate slicks very easily (I'm not sold on gatorskins - I've seen them get many a flat). I commuted on slicks for awhile before I got fed up with flats every week. Don't bother getting separate tire liners. Go to your local bike shop (LBS) and talk about this with them.
  
  
• Not sure what "half clips" are, but if you're referring to clipless pedals, I completely agree. You don't have to spend a lot of money though. These Shimanos took me across the country and I use them every day on my commuter. I've put 4,000+ miles on them with 0 maintenance and no issues whatsoever. The tension is super easy to adjust with a hex wrench, meaning you control how hard it is to unclip. The downside is that they're too small to use comfortably if you're not wearing your bike shoes, but I don't find it to be much of an issue. Also, mtn bike shoes have a recessed cleat, which makes them a hell of a lot easier to walk around in when you're just going to the grocery store or running errands.
  
  
• I also commute in normal clothes, but when I go for serious rides I definitely wear lycra. Once you ride a few hours in any sort of heat, you'll understand. Trust me, I don't think it looks good either, but not being drenched in sweat and full of saddle sores at the end of a long ride is absolutely worth it. This is sort of an aside though - don't worry about it for commutes less than 10-15 miles or so.
  
  
• You don't necessarily need a bike-specific rain jacket, but they sure are nice, and not necessarily more expensive. Look for at least 2 layers if you want water proof, and ventilation is really nice. 1 layer will seep water onto any cloth that touches it. I've come in to work a couple times with soaked sleeves (my jacket has 2 layers, but only 1 layer sleeves - getting a new one soon).
  
  
• Leather saddles are 100% worth the money. Just get a Brooks B17 (Imperial if you're a dude) and a jar of proofide, and call it a day. It will literally last your entire life. Don't ride it in the rain though - cover it with something.
  
  
• WRT a strobe light, pick up a Planet Bike Superflash. There's a turbo too, but I've never actually seen it in person. The Superflash is extraordinarily bright, dead simple to use, and tough as a rock. This is another piece of gear that survived my cross country trip. In fact, just the other week my saddle bag broke and the light went crashing to the pavement as I was doing ~20mph, bounced around a bunch, and kept on blinking with only superficial scrapes. Highly recommended. My headlight is a POS that I inherited from my road bike's previous owner but seems to get the job done (keeps me visible), so I can't really make any strong recommendations here.
  
  
• As to helmets, go to your LBS and get whatever's comfortable, inexpensive, and looks decent (I'm convinced no helmets look good). I spent $60 I think on mine, and it's just fine. More expensive helmets don't necessarily protect you better, but they will offer more ventilation. Not a huge deal for a commuter. The most important thing with helmets is to make sure it's properly positioned and adjusted. That is, it should be forward on your head covering your forehead, and the strap should be quite tight around your chin. You should be able to shake your head around without the helmet moving much.
  
  Good bike gear will last a very, very long time, especially if you're only commuting, and can make a huge difference not only to your enjoyment but also your safety. If you're using it nearly every day, spend the money once and get high quality stuff. And head over to r/bicycling to talk to people who know a lot more than I do. Also talk to the guys at your LBS. Enjoy and good luck!

Hey there! I ride that leg very frequently - it is R38 / South Dakota Ave. Yes, it is dedicated shoulder riding, but the shoulder is widened more than a usual highway's would be. I would recommend it over gravel for one major reason: drivers expect bikers to be there. During a good summer day you'll encounter 5-10 bikers in the 10-mile stretch; all regular drivers in the area will be aware that bikes are on the shoulder.

Must-have #1: get a good helmet-mounted mirror (I use this one) and continuously assess the situation area you. Be especially vigilant about people passing other cars. IMO having you, a car, and another car all in a line together is a great way to die. If I see a car swing out to pass another car near me, I usually give a very clear "stop" hand signal to indicate I want them to wait until they are clear of me. Some oblige, some don't.

Must have #2: set up a safety rule and follow it. Mine is that I watch for an approaching car and if at any point their tire touches the solid white line into the shoulder, I hard brake and remove myself from the road. Thankfully, that's only happened once, and in that particular case the driver did start moving towards the center line as he approached, though I had already begun stopping.

Must have #3: get a very bright flashing rear light and use it during the day while on the highway. I have to admit to you that mine isn't bright enough, but reading this made me realize I need to get one purchased before the season starts back up, so I think I'm going to give this guy a try.

If you do the things above I think you'll find the ride up very enjoyable. Good luck and stay safe!

I was terrified too OP, I actually made a post myself not to long ago. I'm really happy I went through with it, the fear never goes away but it does get better. So far I've not had any accidents nor gotten hit. Like everyone says, make sure you're visible and you are predictable. Know the hand turn signals, get a reflective yellow vest and wear it every time you ride, same with lights. Consider a review mirror that attaches to your helmet or glasses. I was skeptical at first, but it is really helpful and does help a bit with anxiety. Make sure to still look over your shoulder though.

It might be good to start out small too, ride some bike paths if you have any near you (and if you can take them to where you need to go, do so. I find them better myself, I'm lucky that most of my commute to school is on a bike path. Wish my work commute was the same way).

Good luck and have fun! It's been a lifechanger for me, I'm feeling better, getting fitter, and I think I might be loosing weight even. And it's a lot of fun.

Enjoy the FX! I'm rocking the 7.5 and I am completely in love with cycling. Here's a few words of advice:

Ditch that cable lock. I can walk up to a bike with a cable with a five dollar tool and have it for myself in 10-20 seconds. Get a U-Lock and rope. The correct answer for how many locks or what kind of locks to use is how many you are willing to carry. This will depend on your location as well. U-Locks + ropes typically require an individual to have a hacksaw, grinder, etc. I live in a smaller college town and mostly just have to worry about drunk assholes so that works perfect. In other areas more heavy duty and smaller U-Locks are more necessary. This will probably work fine and is cheap unless you're in Detroit or something.

Fenders. I feel like that should be your next investment unless you bike a lot at night. I bike a ton at night and decided to invest in great lights after almost being hit by both cars and bikes several times. The first time you have somewhere to be and go through a puddle, the fenders pay for themselves. These are what I rock and I go through puddles / lakes which I probably shouldn't. I stay nice and dry while my friends breeze through them and get completely soaked.

Racks and bungies are great for the FX series. Like others mentioned, this is just a fun bike. I use it for recreation, commuting, bar hopping, exercise, you name it! A rack and a bungie net makes it awesome and Ortlieb panniers are an even better addition.

Besides fenders however... the seat and pedals (maybe) are the next things I'd recommend to look at. The pedals look metal in that picture, but if there's plastic, toss them. Well, I guess you can use them. It depends on the rider, but there's a pretty good track record of the FX series stock pedals only lasting roughly 500 miles before they completely break. Obviously this will vary by user. These are my favorite commuter pedals because I can go clipless later or I can commute at the same time without switching out. These are cheaper and better for commuting just because of the pricing.

As for the seat, your ass will never get more comfy than sitting on a brooks.

Enjoy the FX, it's a wonderful machine and I cherish mine. I was biking to work for the first time in a month (been on vacation) and I forgot I had to go to work. I accidentally biked a few extra miles down the bike path before I remembered I was commuting and not going for an enjoyable bike ride. Careful, it becomes an addiction.

And here's a shameless plug for my pride and joy. It still had the old pedals, saddle, fenders and needs an updated snapshot.

Thanks for playing along.

> Busch and Muller Ixon IQ Premium

Good This might be one of the most amazing light out there. Unlike many other lights they recognize that "good" isn't just pumping out tons of lumens. They put the light where it needs to go, on the road and not where it shouldn't be - in drivers eyes and in the trees. Them and Light and Motion have the best optics I've seen. There's a few tunnel beam test out there which show beam patterns well.

This review sold me on the light

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwM7vDvvGhU

They cover the beams at the end.

Now the thing is in this vid he's shooting pitch black, which all lights look bright in. Either way the flood is great.

Bad The high run time is listed at 3hrs (standard pretty much..) which is just long enough or a little too short depending on you. I wish more lights ran 4hrs on high as I take long rides with breaks in the middle. Itd be nice to not worry.

It doesn't have any side cut outs for visibility which do seem to help, even on very low powered lights.

Ugly

The main downfall for this light is its price, which I think is over $100. For some people $100 for one light isn't great. Some people might prefer to spend $100 on a different lighting setup (albeit likely with worse optics).


>Cygolite Hotshot



good

Crazy popular and a pretty neat light. I like the strong strobes and customizable flash settings for traffic

bright, unique flash patterns, affordable, good company.

bad

My big beef is it lacks a gentle pulse like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UthVrhsbRr4

for group/night trail rides i dont want to blind people. also id love to run a pulse/flasher combo.

PDW (I think) makes a light that combines a crazy flash pattern with a gentle strobe, that might be king...

ugly

lots of complaints about the mount, going back to at lease 2012. last thing i want is to lose a light on a ride w/o knowing.

"This light is great for visibility and can be seen from far away. MAJOR DRAWBACK - the light is mounted to the bike with a very flimsy mount. every time i go over a bump the light is jostled and ends up pointing straight down at the ground which of course defeats the purpose."

http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/product-reviews/B005DVA57Y/ref=cm_cr_pr_top_recent?ie=UTF8&filterBy=addThreeStar&showViewpoints=0&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

Definitely get a bib, not shorts. I hate the elastic in shorts, and bibs also don't shift around on you. I am a big fan of Voler and they also have some of their items on sale on their website right now.

You didn't specify which kind of pump you have. If you don't have a floor pump; get one. You will always want to top off your tires before you go out. There is a lot of debate on pumps, but I love my Joe Blow Sport.

Don't get a camelbak. I am in love with my camelbak for hiking, skiing, hunting, etc. but hate it for road cycling. It is uncomfortable in the road cycling position. I'm no expert, but it also seems to generate a lot more drag, which will slow you down. Get bottles instead.

I'm a huge fan of 24 oz Polar Bottle. They are cheap and keep your drinks pretty cold.

I would also recommend a quality energy drink if you are going on long rides (4+ hrs). I love Cytomax Tropical Fruit. Buy super cheap bottles if you are using energy powder, because they are hard to clean and get kinda gross after a while. Before I started using a good energy drink, I would tend to bonk out after 4-ish hours. Switching to an energy drink helped me keep going on longer rides.

If you bought all of these things, you would be just shy of $200. Things I'd consider but don't think are absolutely necessary are: gloves and a good jersey. Also a bike computer, but a lot of people are just using Strava on their phones. You can also buy another bib in case you want to ride multiple days in a row.

Hope this helps!

Edit: Definitely have a portable pump and/or CO2 inflator with you on your rides.

If you aren't in a city with notoriously high and advanced bike theft, and aren't leaving it out overnight, try this: http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Pitbull-Ls-11-5-4-5/dp/B005YPKBRI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463020335&sr=8-3&keywords=onguard+pitbull

The long shackle is technically less secure, because it's easier to leverage open, but in a place without a lot of racks it's a blessing to have, because you can fairly easily find /something/ in short walking distance that'll go around, unlike the smaller Ulocks that mostly only work with racks (or, I've found, bikes without big bags and wide upright handlebars). It's a good medium security lock, and both sides of the shackle lock. Downsides, it's heavy, because big, but not as heavy as a chain which is your next smart option (don't get cable locks, they can be cut soooo easily), and the mounting bracket is OK, but I've had two of them fail. I just carry mine in a bag now.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463020570&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+series+2 This is a little lower security lock, but still a mighty fine one in an area with mostly thefts of opportunity. The included cable is for passing through your wheels for a secondary bit of safety. It's the best selling option at the good local bike shop out where I am (Indianapolis).

As for using them, this is the classic guide: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html His method is routinely the best, but without racks it can be hard to lock through the wheel and not the frame. If you can't lock through the wheel, make sure the shackle goes through one of the triangles. And, no matter what, lock to something securely attached to the ground and don't lock to anything the bike can be lifted off and over. Be sure and try lifting any cheap racks you do come across, you'll be surprised how many aren't bolted down right... or at all.

This is my do everything bike, a 2015 Trek Crossrip Comp.

Performance-wise, it is stock, with the exception of the tires. I swapped out the Bontrager Hardcases that came with the bike and put on a pair of [Clement PDX cross tires] (http://clementcycling.com/pdx-clincher). There are lots of gravel trails around my area, and I wanted some grippier tires to handle them. They roll a little bit slower on pavement, but the difference off-road is incredible. This thing absolutely flies on gravel and dirt.

Some other additions include:

-[Ivation Bluetooth Speaker] (http://www.amazon.com/Ivation-Super-Portable-Rechargeable-Bluetooth-Speaker/dp/B00HVMIL1U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409072570&sr=8-1&keywords=bicycle+speaker)- I like listening to music while riding, but earbuds make it difficult to hear what's going on around me. This speaker is a great alternative. It attaches to the handlebars with a stretchy strap, and is very secure. It has an aux input and a micro SD card slot, but the Bluetooth feature is really nice since I don't have to worry about wires getting tangled or where to put my phone.

-[Portland Design Works Danger Zone Taillight] (http://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Danger-Light/dp/B00435IPFK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1409072793&sr=8-2&keywords=portland+design+works+radbot+1000)- So cars don't run me over at night. Mounting it is super easy, and the light is extremely bright. It also quickly unhooks so I can take it with me and not worry about it getting stolen.

-[Diamondback LED Headlight] (http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=41624036&kw=diamondback+headlight&origkw=diamondback+headlight)- So I can see where I'm going at night, and so cars can see me. I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but it seems pretty bright, and the price was good.

-[Blackburn Frame Pump] (http://www.blackburndesign.com/pumps/mountain-air-anyvalve-mini-pump.html#.U_y_7twWxO4)- So I can inflate my tires when needed, and because I like the look of a frame pump.

This is my first bike that isn't from a box box store, and I absolutely love it so far. It's my commuter, my cruiser, my off-roader, and whatever else I need it to be. I highly recommend the Crossrip line to anyone that is interested in it.

When it comes to books, you should always wait until the first day of class so the professor goes over what you will need for the course. For some classes you might not even need a book at all! You will not be using the book very much if at all the first week of the quarter so you will be perfectly fine waiting until the first day or two to order your books! I recommend avoiding the bookstore because it tends to be overpriced. Amazon has much better deals if you want a new book. For used books, join the Textbooks for Sale Facebook page, which is part of the UC Davis groups on Facebook. Also, many people obtain their books in PDF format online or through others who have taken the course. While this is not legal, it does provide for a very cheap alternative to buying your books (but again, it is illegal in most cases unless the publisher has explicitly released the book online in PDF format free of charge!)

I live in West Village as well actually! If you are in a furnished apartment you will get a bed, desk, nightstand and dresser to yourself. You also get a TV stand, living room table, dining table, and a sofa included that you will share. I recommend coordinating with your housemates on what to bring. That is what I did and it is way better than bringing 4 sets of silverware, plates, etc. Is there anything specific you'd like to know about that you should bring? The bare minimum (computer, clothes, kitchen utensils) is what I brought and I am doing just fine!

As for bikes, I recommend a single speed or standard road bike for commuting. The commute from West Village to the middle of campus on bike is 5-7 minutes depending on how fast you biking.

If you are looking to spend under $300 then buy a nice, used road bike when you get to Davis. There is a Bikes for Sale page for UC Davis on Facebook that is regularly updated! Craigslist works fine too. If you are looking to spend $300 or more, ($300 to $500 can get you a good quality bike that will last you throughout college) I recommend checking out this website: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/road_bikes.htm

I personally ride a Single Speed and I love it! It has no gears so you don't need to worry about shifting. It is lightweight, fast, and reliable. I have the Windsor The Hour from BikesDirect (it was $300 when I got it). I recommend the Mercier Kilo TT if they have it in stock (it is extremely popular so it is hard to find in stock). Otherwise the Dawes SST AL and Windsor TheHour/Clockwork are great too!

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Edit: I almost forgot! Thanks for reminding me /u/nTranced. A good U-lock is a must in Davis. Bike theft isn't extremely common but it does happen from time to time. If you have a nice bike make sure it is locked up with a U-lock. I personally recommend this lock as it is a good combination of price and effectiveness: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405012899&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+bike+lock

For tail lights I highly recommend the Planet Bike SuperFlash, PDW Radbot 1000 and PDW Danger Zone. Here's a direct link to Portland Design Works' selection of lights. I can't speak for PDW headlights as I have yet to purchase one but the quality of their tail lights is outstanding. All three of these lights cost $25-$30. I purchased them on Amazon.

As for a headlight I use a Fenix LD20 which will set you back $60 but the light is way better than any dedicated bicycle light with the same output (180 lumens @ 2xAA) for that price (e.g. Light & Motion/Magic Shine/NiteRider/etc). The LD20 can be used as an EDC with an assortment of attachments which can also be used on your bike. I've been experimenting with the white diffuser tip and have found that it provides a great 360 degree illumination of my bike at night when mounted on the down tube.

You can mount the light just about anywhere on your bike with either this mount or this one. The first I use on the handlebars and second I use to mount the light on my helmet. They're also good for mounting a lock on the frame.
I also invested in a pack of Sanyo Eneloop rechargeable Ni-MH batteries on amazon.

Whatever lights you decide on settling with I strongly recommend they take AA or AAA batteries as CR123's and 18650's are expensive and hard to come by when on the road.

You can never have too many lights. I've invested over $140 in several lights to be better seen and that's much cheaper than having to pay a hospital bill because I wasn't illuminated enough.

Lastly, I recommend the Delta Airzound Air Horn. This thing is a beast and impresses everyone that sees it and scares many that hear it. It has saved me from two very near collisions at night when my lights just weren't enough because the drivers weren't paying attention at all.

Honestly, your needs are really pretty minimal and your budget is more than adequate. Here are a few points to consider to get the bike to do what you want.

First, get a rear rack and panniers. This might cost $100-$150 out of your budget, but is VERY worth it because now you can carry things with you. Your commute is short enough that a backpack wouldn't be terrible, but if you want to pick up groceries or go longer distances then the backpack becomes a much less attractive idea.

Second, I recommend getting flat resistant tires for commuting. A flat tire sucks when you're on your way into the office. Count on spending close to $100 for a set of these. It sounds like a lot, but the difference in dependability is huge. I have Continental Touring Plus, but there are a few brands out there that have build a solid reputation.

Third, get a good lock, and use it. The bay area is bad for bike theft, even from places that you think would be safe. They're very easy to sell for a quick buck, no questions asked. Read up on how to lock the bike and how not to.

Fourth, get front and rear lights. Get good ones. It's staying light later now, but you want to be really visible to cars. I use a light like this in front: http://amzn.com/B00GJZ015Y

Happy shopping!

Waterproof gloves.

I know you said you have shoes, but these covers are reasonable. I'm not a huge fan of the color, but winter above the 45 parallel is a dark time of the year and a little extra "I'M HERE" never hurts.

This jacket might seem a little expensive, however I own a few Shower Pass items and cannot say enough good stuff about the quality, durability and comfort of their gear. In my book, they are one of the best wet weather bike clothing outfits around.

There are a TON of options for lighting. Basically you want something on the front that is 400 Lumen or better. For the rear, I've been buying Cygolite's Hot Shot for years. They've always delivered and I've actually had several riders comment on how visible they make me to traffic.

Not sure if that model Schwinn has braze ons for a rear rack? Would strongly recommend adding one and getting a bag if you do. It's really nice not having the weight on one's back in the wet. Good luck, and welcome to the non-fair weather cycling gang. :D

that is a little better than using a giant u-lock but i'd hate to ride all over town with a giant chain. ideally a smaller u lock for normal use, and then carry a chain for when you think you might have issues locking it up or leave that somewhere you will be locking it frequently. the onguard beast chain seems to be the go to and comes with a lock as well, and as far as i know the kryponite NYFU is still the best lock on the market though it is expensive.

honestly just get as good of a u-lock you can afford if you have reasonable access to bike racks, or get the chain setup if you are wrapping around posts or trees. anything is defeatable, your best bet is to make yours harder than someone else's lock and hope for the best.
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/commuting-touring-ride-reports/boltcutter-proof-locks-276407.html
http://www.lfgss.com/thread17938.html

Most bike lights concentrate the beam straight ahead or behind and don't do much to make you more visible from the side, and when navigating city traffic it's often quite a good thing to be seen from the side. Wheel reflectors are good, and I really think are advisable on both wheels though I prefer spoke reflectors such as these they shine up brighter than most reflectors in headlights but are probably less noticeable than reflectors in daylight.

An even brighter alternative is wheel mounted lights, I recently tried one of these and liked it enough to get some more from my wife and brother. Pretty small and light and surprisingly bright, really makes you much more visible from the side. The best feature is that they turn on automatically when it's dark and they sense movement so it's one less thing to remember to do when you set off. Only had them for a few days so can't say anything about reliability but for £6 I'm happy to risk it.

I'm riding this: http://i.imgur.com/Q1SewUi.jpg (Giant Defy 3)

I was lucky enough to get it on clearance, but it was in your price range and has all the mounts for a rack. Taking the rack and U-lock off makes it a pretty nice weekend warrior for longer rides, too.

I'm not using them, but I've heard nothing but good things about Ortliebs. If I ever have to buy new panniers, that's what I'll go with.

I use a Night Rider Lumina Micro 250 for my front light. It works fine, I just have to make sure I charge it. This is the tail light that I use. I can't confirm that either is the "best" but both work fine for my 7 mile morning commutes.

Other things that you might want to look into:

• A good U-lock, depending on what the situation is at work and whether or not you'll use the bike for anything else. Don't depend on a cheap cable lock, trust me.
  
• A cycle computer. I use a pretty cheap wired one, mostly so I can keep track of the time, but I like to try to keep my speed up, too.
  
• A seat bag for your spare tube, CO2, patches, tire levers, spoke wrench, and multi-tool. If you need extra storage space you can add one of these.
  
• Mini Pump (Yes, I keep CO2 and a pump on my bike)
  
• Water bottle cage and water bottle. (Depending on the length of your commute. I live in Phoenix, so this is pretty vital.)
  
• You might also want something waterproof for your phone. Where I live this isn't vital, but in some places it would be.
  
  
  I think that's all I use.

I would use a cable on the seat and wheels but to be honest with something over 1K I would get a better lock. Mainly the Kryptonite NY Standard. Just because the bike is going to be a bigger target to thieves. But it is your bike and your money.

You should look at getting a GPS in the frame, as you can find your bike and it acts as a deterrent.

Depending on how much you care about/need the bike I would also look at bike insurance. I use Velo Insurance, and they are pretty nice. The CEO will answer the phone they are a small company with great reviews.

Although the New York series of locks from kryptonite also offer insurance free for the first 3 years as /u/GoonCommaThe mentioned. Although make sure and read the restrictions carefully.

For just commuting and stuff I'd say go with a AA or AAA flashlight. they won't be as bright, but they will be much more versatile. Get some eneloops and you'll have a great system for years.

Personal favorite flashlight in the AAA dept is the Nebo Redline.

I know most people here like the Twofish Lock Blocks for holding the flashlight.

Or you could get the two as a combo.

That should be a good and easy to use system that's brighter than you really need for a price that's affordable.

btw, I'm leary of DealExtreme...they look fairly shady and there's not even specs for things like lumen output on a lot of those lights. Often you get what you pay for, and I'm guessing on those lights it's not worth the $8 you'd save.

I usually find the Google maps estimate a bit generous - on a 25-minute estimate I might get 20 minutes, and ride 14-18mph on an upright hybrid. I know some people here on their road bikes ride faster.

Safety-wise, I actually would say your vest is even more important than lights. I personally prefer these straps. I've been using them for over 2 years. They light up like day, and don't overheat you in the summer like a full vest would while allowing you to layer multiple coats in the winter.

A nice 1000+lumen front light is another must - you want to not only be seen but in dark conditions to be able to see hazardous objects on the road, particularly a country road. This is the light I've been using for over 2 years (plus backup batteries to easily swap out), but anything bright will do. I prefer steady beam on my front light rather than having it blink - again for visibility.

For rear lights you (again) want something very bright and visible from far away, but that blinks. This is the one that I use, but again anything bright is good.

Good luck out there!

The bike started life as a 2012 Motobecane Fantom Cross Pro, which came with some good components already. SRAM Rival partial group,
FSA crankset, and Mavic Aksium Race wheels. I've had good luck with this bike and it's got almost 2k miles on it, so I kept most of it, but not all.

Once I decided to make it my commuter bike, I started adding things.

For lights I picked up the Cygolite Hot shot rear light and use one of my MTB lights if needed for the front, a
Chinese knock-off CREE XM-L2 front light

For tires I went with the Panaracer RiBMo 700x32c based on feedback from users on here.

You can't go wrong with a Tubus Logo Evo Rear Rack and Ortlieb Back Roller Classics.


I wanted some extra gearing for those climbs along the way, so I went with the SRAM FORCE Rear Derailleur so I could run a SRAM PG-1050 11-32 Cassette.

Of course, I needed a new KMC X10SL chain for the new gear combo.

I picked up a new road bike and pulled the Ritchey Pro Streem Saddle and Ritchey Pro Biomax bars off of that bike and used them on my commuter, along with some new Lizard Skins DSP 3.2mm bar tape and some Soma Road Flares for added visibility.

For a little less weight and possible shock absorbtion, I threw in a Chinese knock off carbon seat post.

I also wanted something besides my regular riding shoes, so I opted for the Shimano Click'R PD-T700 pedals and
Shimano SH-CT40 Cycling Shoes
, which I love and highly recommend.

I also needed to adjust the fit so I picked up a Kalloy Uno 6 90mm stem because I've had great luck with them on other bikes.

And for added safety, I picked up two rolls of 3M Scotchcal Reflective Striping Tape in white and black, and added white stripes to the white frame and black stripes to the rims and the back of my helmet.

As long as it's not way too small or large for you, that's a good buy. I own a vintage road bicycle and enjoy it more than most modern bicycles I've ridden. That being said, my recommendations:

• Get a tune-up for sure, but don't paint it. It looks fine!
  
• Get some nice bar tape (perhaps cork?) and replace that nasty stuff
  
• Adjust your seat, it looks quite low; at the bottom of your pedal stroke your leg should be almost fully extended
  
• Since you have a quill stem, you can also easily drop your handlebars further down, or pull them further up probably
  
• Just as a word of precaution, you should invest in a nice pump with a gauge like this and check your tire pressure every few days (at least).
  
  Peugeots are definitely solid vintage road bicycles. I would have bought this if it were on my local Craigslist. As others have said, these are also great to convert to single speeds or fixies, but I'd keep it as a road bike. However if you wanted to sell it at a later date and you live near a college, it might be easier to sell it as a fixie ;).
  
  Congrats, enjoy the ride.

I like these ones from Amazon if you are going to go this route:
Bright Eyes

Basically the same LED and similar housing, but better QC, and much better attention to detail.

Everything from the packaging, to the waterproofing of the housing, to the included accessories, are worlds better than a similar cheap Chinese one I bought off I ebay. Plus, I feel much more confident with the battery. Some of those Chinese versions have had reports of the batteries catching fire while charging.

Also, it's Prime so you don't need to wait for it to ship from China, you can return it without hassle if you don't like it, it comes with a FREE tail light that is really nice, and it just has the overall appearance of a product that somebody actually cares about.

I think you should go into lights a little more. Many people make the mistake of just grabbing the cheapest lights, which aren't bright enough to help you actually see or stand out enough that motorists see you.

Most rear lights are fine, it is usually front lights that I find inadequate. I recommend this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006QQX3C4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1368717055&sr=8-2&pi=SL75 but it does have a small battery you must find room to mount and on the brightest setting only lasts a few hours. If you keep it charged between commutes, it is perfect, though. I can clearly see the road and cars can clearly see my light. Before, I was using a 1-Watt AA battery powered one and it was ok, but I had a lot of close calls because motorists still couldn't see me until I was right on top of them. If you don't want to deal with mounting a battery and keeping it charged, I recommend using nothing weaker than a 1-Watt, but more will be better and however much you spend, it will be cheaper than a hospital bill.

Disc racks can work on non-disc brake wheels. I use a Blackburn EX-1 Disc Rack on my bike. My bike does not have the eyelets by the wheel hub for pannier racks, but strangely it does have the eyelets on the seat stay for them. I found this rack works very well on my bike.

For USB rechargeable lights, I use a Cygolite Metro 500 and a Cygolite Hotshot. Both lights are easily removable so you can take them with you when you leave your bike locked up. There are cheaper versions of the Cygolite Metro which are also quite good (300, 360, 400), but not quite as bright. The Metro 300 is probably enough light for most people, and is what I used first. The only reason I switched is because my girlfriend's bike needed a better headlight, so I used that as an excuse to upgrade mine and give her my old one. Currently the 360 is cheaper than the 300 on Amazon, and is brighter. So there's no reason to get the 300 right now.

For multi tool, I like the Topeak Hexus II. Someone else on Reddit recommended it to me months ago and I'm quite satisfied.

For a full time commuter, I recommend some puncture resistant tires. I use Continental Gatorskins with Mr Tuffy liners inside them. Haven't had a single flat in several months now. Having a flat on your way to work would really suck, especially in crappy winter weather.

I use Ortlieb Front Rollers on my rear rack, as I was worried the Back Rollers would be large enough to cause heel strike. The Front Rollers are very nice. I love how easy they are to put on and take off, plus they're quite rugged and keep everything dry. The Front Rollers are just barely large enough for a 15" laptop, though I can't roll the top down well with it in there.

Grab a pack of these https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

These invisible during the day, but super bright at night. Combine them with some reflective tape on the frame, bright lights, maybe some tyres with reflective sidewalls when the time comes to change them, plus bright clothes and you're super safe!

The person overtaking is responsible for overtaking safely.

I ride on multi use trails, as well as in traffic. Every time, and I mean EVERY time I pass someone, be it on a bike, roller blades, or walking, they get a "DING" from my bell, or if they are wearing earphones, a friendly but firm "On your left!"

When I'm on the road, however, I use my air horn... Yes, I have an air horn on my bike. Best thing EVER! You use your bike pump to pressurize a bottle that sits in one of your water bottle cages, and there is a small tube that runs up to the actual horn on the bars. You press a button, and an ear piercing shriek comes out of the horn. One pressurization of the tank will be good for a good 30 second long blast, but many many more "normal" length toots.

This is similar to what I have. It even has a volume control of sorts. (It's a valve that limits the amount of air admitted to the horn, so you can mash the button, but it won't be ear splittingly loud, in case you want to use it to give people friendly "toot toots" on the trail.

For quasi-anonymity, would it be possible to not state where I go to school?

If so, I'm on my second year as a transfer student in animal science. I love animals and I love caring for and spending time with them, so this degree will allow me to be paid for doing what I love. Some possible career options would allow me to be able to work with animals and people, helping them to have a mutually beneficial relationship.

I walk every day to school because my bike lock rusted out and I don't trust that my lockless bike on campus would be there when I returned. I would enter for a lock for my bike so I can have either a few more minutes of study or sleep, depending on the day. Thank you for the contest. =)

If weight is not an issue, you should get the Kryptonite New York Lock. I have it and have never had an issue with it. It's pretty much as secure as you'll get with a bike lock, without resorting to incredibly huge, heavy, unwieldy solutions. I live in Philly too, which has a ton of bike theft.

This looks to be even thicker and more secure, but I can't tell from the picture how large it actually is.

For the most security, the lock should be small, but big enough to put through the frame and back wheel, while still having room to accommodate the front wheel (which you should take off and lock with the back wheel and frame, provided it's a quick-release wheel- if it's not a quick release, then get one of the cables or an extra, tiny u-lock to lock the front wheel to the frame).

Take some time to look up the most secure ways to lock a bike. It doesn't matter how long you've been riding for- if you're unfamiliar with how to securely lock up a bike, having a better lock won't mean much. How you lock it up, where you lock it up, and what you lock it to are all important considerations.

And just know that there's no perfect solution. If somebody comes along with an angle-grinder, your bike is getting stolen no matter how many locks you have on it. Exercise good judgement in how long you keep it locked up in one place (as in, don't just leave it out overnight in a high-theft area if you can avoid it). And even having a great lock won't prevent somebody from taking your seat, handlebars, headlight, reflectors, fender/mud guard, water bottle, or anything else that might be on your bike but not chained down.

Yeah, basically always lock your back wheel and frame with a U-lock to a sturdy, stationary object (There are plenty of bike parking racks. NEVER lock your bike to just itself or another bike). That's bare minimum. That's usually sufficient if you're going to just be in class for an hour or two.

In Davis, cable locks are just a visual deterrent. They're essentially useless, especially if you have a nice bike.

If you have quick-release, either swap them out for regular wheels or be very vigilant about locking both wheels with U-locks.

If you have a nice bike, never park it outside at night on campus. Also, try not to leave your bike outside if you're going to be away (going home for the weekend, winter break, etc.). There are people who go hunting for bikes and bike parts at night and especially during breaks when nobody is around.

It's also a good idea to take a short chain/cable and thread it through your frame and bike seat, just so that's secure too.

Contrary to popular belief, bigger is not better when it comes to U-locks. You want the thickest, fattest, smallest U-lock possible that fits your bike. For example, this mini U-lock would probably do better than this standard U-lock. The idea is, the longer the U-lock, the more space it gives thieves to use for leverage to pry open your lock. I'm not sure if you buy into that, but mechanically it makes sense, and the smaller ones also happen to be cheaper too. Some of my friends with really nice bikes (think $500+) have two small, fat U-locks and they do their job well.

I've also heard that you do want two different types of locks (U-lock and a thick cable, for instance), because that means thieves have to carry two different tools to break the two different locks. This is up to you, and I still think two U-locks are fine.

You can call any bike shop and they'll help! It's worth a try at least. Good luck!

After quite a lot of research, I've taken the plunge on buying a road bike for general use after not riding a bike in like a decade... Decided to splurge on a B'Twin Triban 500SE (shop link that'll probably inevitably break), rather than deal with the hassle of trying to find a second hand bike locally and deal with potential repairs etc. And of course for my own personal vanity of liking minimalist designs, the bike's look is perfect for me, I'm not the biggest fan of the more traditionally bright decals etc.

It'll be the first nice bike I've had as well, I had a massive mountain bike thing when I was a teenager but never used it off-road, considering I'm a slender fellow it weighed a tonne and wasn't much fun to use. It'll be interesting to see what a light road bike will be like. Can't wait for it to arrive! :D

I've been trying to make sure I don't forget any of the essential accessories I'll be needing. So far I've ordered these:

• Multi-tool
  
• Puncture Repair Kit
  
• Mini-pump
  
• D-Lock with a cable loop
  
• Helmet
  
  Things I need to look at:
  
  
• Lights Bought a NiteRider Solas and Lezyne Super Drive XL for lights.
  
• Oil
  
• Cover (since there's barely any room in my flat, might have to sort something out if I'm not using the bike often in Winter or something).
  
  Is there any other essentials I'm missing? I imagine there might be a lot of tiny things that I'm missing, stuff like reflectors.
  
  Also recommendations for the stuff I'm missing will be appreciated, I just bought some good rated stuff off Amazon, no idea if the reviews are completely wrong, I know they can be for some products I'm more versed in.
  
  Also any tips for someone's first ride in a while, and especially first time on drop handles? I've done some basic research on how to hold the bars and use the Microshift gear levers, but I'm sure there's little tips that might help.
  

Pick up one of these brackets: Taillight Bracket

Then get any compatible light, such as: PDW Danger Zone or Nightrider Solas

The PDW Danger Zone is a better light, and cheaper, but the Nightrider is USB rechargeable. The PDW is better, because you can easily pair it with rechargeable AAA batteries. This allows you to replace the batteries as they wear out, toss a non-rechargeable battery in in a pinch. When used a couple hours a day, decent rechargeable batteries last over a full week. IMO rechargeable AAA > USB rechargeable.

Or, if you find a light you like with the standard CatEye-style rear light mount, there's this bracket that fits those: CatEye Rack Bracket CatEye mounts are square with small indents on the back, like this: CatEye Light (best picture I could find).

That said, depending on where you live, I'd really recommend looking into a dyno hub and dyno lighting. Lithium batteries really work poorly in the cold, and NiMH work only marginally better. With long, cold days coming, not relying on batteries is really nice. At the least, I'd recommend against lithium batteries if you live somewhere cold. Rechargeable NiMH aren't really that much bother, especially if you buy extras and have them in a charge-rotation...always fresh batteries.

Not to mention you end up momentarily taking your eyes off where you're heading in the time it takes to turn and turn back. It's remarkable how much "nervous energy" is saved from not having to check back as much as I used to. Of course, I still do shoulder checks before changing lines but it's very useful for situational awareness (just think of the number of times you've approached other cyclists and pedestrians like a ninja).

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/mirrors.html

http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/cyclingmirrors.htm

http://bicycletouringpro.com/blog/selecting-a-mirror-for-your-bicycle-tour/

http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26

Just a few links I went through before ultimately deciding on the "Take A Look" (compact) after comparing the reviews to see what would suit me (I ended up getting mine from ebay for what it's worth).

The 3rd link has one that attaches on your sunglasses lens, which I think is pretty neat (and not dorky) - but unfortunately, I don't wear sunglasses. I've also heard of ones that fit on the end of drop bars rather discretely. I wonder why the Tour de France pros don't make use of it in a poker-face sense - perhaps UCI has it banned??

Having a mirror allows me to "take the lane" so much more easily particularly when I know there isn't a car gaining up on me before I hear it through the rush of wind in my ears. Also handy for using up the whole narrow bike path without getting in anyone's way for greater visibility around bends, etc. And I haven't even mentioned silly commuter racing yet. ;)

Just one, I had bought a bunch of light up junk totally unrelated for a silly race, and it happened to fit perfectly around the board. Well, perfectly around my board, with those particular bash guards on.

I folded the light strip in half, marked it, taped it center front (just to hold it in place), and put the bash guard over it to lock it into place.

With the hot glue gun, I did one small section at a time. One squeeze of the trigger worth, and then pushed the light strip into it all the way, so it made good contact with the board. Don't try to smooth it like caulk, it'll get weird.

The light strip ends just as it reaches the rear bash guard with about 1 cm space left on each side. So whether or not it looks even depends on how well you centered the whole thing.

With the head and tail light on, it looks pretty good, I think. I Prime Now'd the same Blitzu bike tail light from another post on here that I can't find at the moment. And then ordered the headlight that I figured might fit on the front truck. It does. Barely. Sort of. If you turn hard, you might into some issues. I have yet to really test that before I get a second one. The neat thing is that the headlight(s) now point into the direction I'm turning.

A few more photos of various angles.

When you say "Trails", do you mean singletrack loose dirt bike paths, or more along the lines of fire roads, hard packed dirt with a bit of gravel?

If the latter, I think your "city tires" will probably do just fine. Even if they're full slicks (which I suspect they aren't), simply letting some air out of the tires will provide the control you need.

On the tire's sidewall you'll find a max PSI rating. For the road keep it near it's maximum for rolling efficiency. Probably anywhere from 60 to 85 depending on the tire they put on. Lower it to 45-50 for dirt. You'll be surprised at how well the bike handles.

But ChimpStyles, you ask, What if I want to ride 5 miles on the road to the trailhead and back? Won't that suck with the tires deflated? Get yourself a portable pump replies the ever stylish ChimpStyles. You'll want one as part of your toolkit if you get a flat. I like the Topeak Road Morph G. Ask your local bike shop for help if you don't know how to change a flat, I'm sure they'll help.
Thanks ChimpStyles, you're the best! cries monkeyfunky.

And they all lived happily ever after.

If you are going to be riding some more serious / technical / whateveryouwanttocallit trails, then some knobby, dirt-specific tires would be of benefit. In that case, if you can afford a second wheelset I would do that. Tell the shop you what you want 'em for and they'll help you pick out a good set. That will be way cheaper than buying a different bike. You can get a good wheelset with tires for ~300-400 vs. 600-tothemoon for a decent mountain bike.

Have fun on the bike.

Hey nice bike! If I were you I would add a saddle bag with some tubes, tire levers, and maybe get a small pump, and since you're just commuting the whole "it ain't aero" thing doesn't really fucking matter in my opinion ;) I would recommend this and these and this. Also read up on sites like Sheldon Brown for basics, and also I would recommend the GCN youtube channel for repair and maintenance. Also as far as locks go get a U-lock like this for most security and use this locking method. Have fun and stay safe, and feel free to ask any questions to me or any of the other people on this sub!

Im so sorry this happened to you. I cant give any better advice than has been given, however, I have advice on how to prevent your next bike from being stolen.

I REALLY hope that cable lock in the picture isnt the lock you used. Using a cheap $20 lock to protect what I'm guessing is a $600 or more bike is asking for trouble. For your next bike, get locking skewers to protect your wheels. They make it practically impossible to remove your wheels when used right. Then get a U-lock, and use it anywhere on the frame. If you only protect your frame and not your wheels (aka if you dont get the locking skewers, or use a cable lock for your wheels), then you're looking at paying around $200 per wheel in aftermarket parts.

Locking Skewers:
http://www.amazon.com/Pinhead-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer-Pack/dp/B001Y9X328

http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-MinPin-3-Piece-Locking-Skewer/dp/B00773XY9M/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286334&sr=1-2&keywords=onguard+skewers

or the best:
http://www.urbanbiketech.com/Pitlock-Locking-Skewer-Sets-s/1.htm

For U-locks, any is pretty good, but the higher-end you go, the better, and DEFINITELY sign up for the insurance the lock comes with! Here are two of the best:
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Standard-Bicycle-Transit-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9SY/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286741&sr=1-2&keywords=new+york+lock

http://www.amazon.com/Blackburn-Sing-Bicycle-U-Lock/dp/B00470OYE2/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286786&sr=1-2&keywords=blackburn+u+lock

I'd say plan ahead for your move back to Cambridge now and get a proper bike lock like the Kryptonite Evolution Series. No bike lock is 100% secure, but that one does a good job balancing weight, security, and price. It will deter casual thieves with simple tools (like a hacksaw or crowbar), which is about the best you can hope for and should be totally fine for your grocery trips.

The link I posted goes to a package with a U-lock and cable. This GIF shows you how to use the two of them together to make sure that the frame and both wheels are securely locked up. U lock goes around the seat stays (or rear wheel inside the triangle) and the bike rack, cable wraps the front wheel, downtube, and U lock.

If you're using tubs... or tubeless (can't remember which), I can't help you much from experience, but I can tell you Lezyne makes some beautiful and well-engineered products and you'll need a shock pump to seat the tubular or tubeless tires onto the rim, so I would feel confident recommending this Lezyne floor pump.

On the other hand, if you run clinchers, I've had good luck with this Topeak Joe Blow pump, rated for up to something like 160psi

Also, you likely already know, but just in case, here's /r/triathlon

#1 Get real lights--both headlight and taillight.

#2. Mounting a headlight low helps define potholes and other road issues. If your light is aligned with your eyes, say mounted on your head or high on the handlebars, you don't get any shadows. But a low mounted headlight--say fork-mounted--really casts some shadows and allows you to see those potholes.

Personally I like a low and a high headlight, not a low light only. There are too many situations when the low light is hidden from an oncoming vehicles. But low + high is a good combo.

LED lights are so good anymore there is not reason to not ride with something sufficiently bright. Like 1000 lumens or more up front and at least nearly that many in the back. I ride with relatively cheap CREE style led lights (something like this, though that's not a recommendation for that particular brand/style as I haven't tried it) that are like $20.

I've been running these taillights for a while, 3 watt CREE. That particular one isn't available any more but it gives you an idea of the wattage needed to be truly visible. Just for example, one of the 3 watt CREEs will very clearly outblast 3 of these. Also it has a battery that will actually last a while vs lights powered by AAAs to save a few grams--but last only a couple of rides at best.

Anyway, when you have enough lights on, front-, rear-, and side-visible, you'll be surprised how much room you get from motorists. I generally enjoy riding at night more than the day.

Sure! Honestly, I don't see any headlights that I'd buy but the Cygilite 2W is pretty good. For a headlight you could do really well getting a high lumen light from Amazon. I use a rechargeable one that I've used for over a year now and it works great. Similar to this one.

I recommend getting a U-Lock along with an extension cable. You want to put the U-Lock somewhere through the rear triangle like this.
This locks the rear wheel and the frame. Then you want to loop the extension cable through the U-Lock and put it through your front tire so it is also secure. Kryptonite, Abus, and On Guard are all good lock brands. Something like this lock would work fine, but there are more expensive options if you want to be more secure. I personally use this lock. All locks are about buying time because an angle grinder can cut through any lock in a few minutes. I suggest parking it to something secure, something public, and well-lit. Also, make sure to register your bike through TAPS because if someone steals your bike or puts a lock on it, they won't be able to help you. Good luck!

your best bet is probably to find a reputable used bike shop and talk to them about your needs and what you're looking for. bike slug on bedford av. in brooklyn is an excellent place to go for that, as is frank's on grand street in manhattan. it'll cost more than getting a bike on craigslist, but you can also be sure that everything works correctly. the other reason i would suggest a used bike is that it's much, much less likely to get stolen in NYC. BUY A GOOD LOCK AND USE IT.

as far as bike type, the classic bikes for riding around the city are: (1) rigid mountain bikes like this one, because they're cheap, strongly built, and they're very fast if you replace the off-road tires with road tires. (2) road bikes from the 70s and 80s, which are similar: fast, cheap, and you can still get replacement parts if something breaks. it's pretty common to replace the drop handlebars with upright bars, which give you better visibility. (3) you could consider a single-speed, which is simple to maintain and easy to ride, but it'll be kind of a bitch climbing up the bridges.

those kinds of bikes will be perfectly fine for any ride under 10 miles. (that's basically the distance from chelsea, uptown to columbia, and back-- or the distance from prospect park to coney island.)

I got 2 of these lights: http://www.amazon.com/Best-Rechargeable-Lumen-Bicycle-Light/dp/B00GJZ015Y/

Slightly more expensive at $40 each, but is one of the best reviewed "Magicshine 808 clones" on Amazon and the seller apparently has some of the best customer service (I haven't had to deal with issues yet, but they did send me 2 wide angle lens for FREE after I emailed them).

Real world test is probably nowhere up to claimed 1.2k lumens, closer to 800-900, which is enough for me now. I might grab another one so I can mount 2 on the handlebars side by side.

Note that many of the higher 1.6-3k lumen lights, even the $100-200 MagicShines, have heat issues when running on high for long periods of time, which could affect component lifespan.

Biking in the rain isn't very fun. It's not too bad, but your tires can slip on some surfaces (usually metal). I had to cross some railroad tracks on my route and the tires could easily slip on the metal surfaces.

Also, in the winter, you'll want to wear gloves, otherwise your hands will get pretty cold from the cold air.

Develop a system to make sure you packed your clothes. I've left a few times for work without packing a shirt.

You may want to invest in a bike horn. I have one like this. It helps to alert cars to your presence, but will probably scare pedestrians, so be careful.

Also, you'll probably want to wear sunglasses, otherwise debris can get into your eyes.

I'd invest in a decent quality road bike. Mine was a $1000 Trek, but that's maybe a slight step above entry level. A good quality bike will cost you over $500. Road bikes are so nice. I was able to consistently go around 20 MPH. with bursts up to 25-30. I actually used to take a lane in rush hour traffic when I lived in my downtown area. I could keep up with the stop and go traffic and it was a great workout.

Wear a helmet!

Get lights, especially for winter when it gets dark earlier.

Visibility is key when riding near traffic, get reflective tape for your bike and reflective ankle bands so cars can see you.

Bike defensively. Worse accident I got in was when I was going by an alley and a car came out of the alley and didn't see me. Luckily I saw them so was able to avoid too much damage.

Either learn to do the maintenance yourself or take your bike into a shop to get maintenance every year or so.

Anyway, good luck! I enjoyed biking into work. I need to get back into it, but it takes good self discipline to wake up early enough to bike into work. I was lucky enough to have a locker room and showers at my workplace, and a bike locker. I really have no excuses other than the fact that driving is so much easier.

• Try a dry run on the weekend
  
• Go in early in the morning, leave early in the afternoon, if your schedule allows
  
• What is your route like? Is there a shoulder? If it is wide enough, you could ride in it so long as it is clear of debris, but traffic may pass closer. Is the road 4 lanes? If so, this allows drivers to pass without changing lanes into oncoming traffic.
  
• Are the lanes really wide? If the lanes are wide enough that you feel comfortable with traffic passing you without changing lanes, then you can ride to the right. If not, then position yourself in the middle or left of the lane to encourage drivers to change lanes to pass. See this for more explanation: http://www.bikewalknc.org/2016/01/using-the-left-half-of-the-lane/ (note the chart near the bottom that shows the further right you ride, the less room cars give).
  
• Light up! Get both front and rear lights and use them even during the day. I really like this rear light and have been complimented on it.

I recommend checking out /r/bikecommuting. Although it sounds like you have already been commuting by bike, so I apologize if you already know what I'm saying. I'm assuming because you are asking about what you wear for winter cycling that you do not regularly commute in winter/have a short commute.

You will need to get lights for commuting, especially as winter approaches (assuming that you are in the Northern hemisphere). I have the Cygolite Expillion 350 and the PDW Danger Zone. I once read that a blinking rear light is good for being noticed but a solid light is good for driver depth perception, so my helmet has a red light in back that I keep solid in the evening/night. I will eventually get a second real rear light.

As for clothing - what is your climate going to look like this winter? I was commuting in upstate New York and wore generic winter running tights, wool socks, UA coldgear shirt, a down vest, gloves, and a thin scarf that went around my neck and over my head under my helmet. When I wore thick wool mittens over my gloves, I was toasty in that down to 14 F. I never got goggles/glasses, but they would have been nice when it sleeted.

I don't have any cycling specific wear. I re-purpose what I already have or buy things that will work for multiple activities.

I wash my bike (or at least rinse it off) after any ride where salt from the road was kicked up. Last winter I had a toothbrush and would gently scrub my derailleurs to get off the ice and would use a damp rag to wipe it down. Again, I was biking in upstate New York. I have since moved south and don't yet know what this winter will mean for biking. I'm assuming a lot less ice and a lot less salt.

This is the current "best headlight for the money" winner at Amazon :

4 Mode 1200 Lumen CREE XML T6 Bulb LED Bicycle bike HeadLight Lamp Flashlight Light Headlamp

It doesn't use USB for charging, but that's kind of a good thing as its charger puts out more power than a standard USB port does so it charges faster.

As for a tail light, the winners aren't so clear, but so far I'm fond of the $5 Planet Bike Super Flash clones at DX.com -- get two of those and I'm set.

I wouldn't get a brooks. They are pricey because they become super comfortable after some use, but the downside is that they are theft magnets. If you get one, lock your saddle with a cable, or take it in with you, but these things go missing on my campus all the time. I'd just ride the stock for a while, when you want to upgrade, go into your LBS and nab one from them.




As for locks, U-lock+Cable in conjunction will be best. If you pick one, do a u-lock. Kryptonite is well-recommended. They have a few models:

The New York is the big boy, nigh indestructible lock. But probably not necessary for a windsor the hour.

Here's what I use, but I sort of regret it. It feels cheaper (because it was cheaper) than other kryptonite locks I've used. The lock itself is fine, but I have trouble with my key after a few months of use (have to jiggle it around for a bit for it to disengage). If you're on a campus or in a smaller town, it'd be fine.

Just ordered this. My buddy has one and it's brilliant. Super light and small (smallness is actually a benefit as far as security). Can fit in your back pocket.

Also: http://sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

I would recommend this one. I was hesitant in buying it because it sounded too good to be true, 2800 lumens for $30?! But it actually is pretty fucking bright. I have the Light and Motion 700 and I could honestly say that the Amazon light is brighter.

The only downside is that it has an external battery pack has cheap Velcro straps. If you're really interested in it I could post up a test video of it at night.

I've ordered six of these lights in the past. Three immediately went back because they didn't work out of the box. They are very cheaply made and are $20 for a reason.

They are also nowhere near 1000 lumens. That's the theoretical max of the LED, not how many actual lumens it pumps out. Realistically, it's about 600-700 at most. That's still awesome for $20, but it's nowhere near 1000 lumens.

This one: http://www.amazon.com/SecurityIng%C2%AE-Waterproof-Bicycle-Lighting-Flashlight/dp/B00C2MHNJK/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1414784449&sr=1-4&keywords=securitying is a much better made light. I have two of them and they have a better beam pattern and have lasted a lot longer than the single beam ones. It's nowhere near 2800 lumens though. Again, that's a marketing claim based on a theoretical max.

I use the dual beam on my helmet, and the single beam with a wide beam diffuser on the handlebars. It's a great combination. The use the same battery pack, so if one dies, like it did on my last ride, then you can just swap the battery pack to the helmet.

I've had some close calls. You can see in the stats that isn't particularly safe but I enjoy it and do my best. I got one of these for my bike and it helps to blast cabs and j walkers. much more effective than a bell, which I still use for passing etc

To quote Mr.T - "pain"
I'd do no more than 20 (fairly flat) miles on a first ride. You're probably plenty fit - but bikes are different than running. Increase as you feel comfortable. You might rub your naughty bits with a good cream (nozxema) before hand, for some lubrication - and I assume you have property biking shorts with a chamois? You need that. I like a mirror on my helmet. Eventually you'll need clipless shoes & pedals (which ironically do have clips). And watch out for cars.

I just ordered this bright eyes one:
http://www.amazon.com/Bright-Eyes-Rechargeable-Headlight-taillight/dp/B00GJZ015Y?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

A guy I work with has one and loves it. The bright eyes brand is supposed to have much better warranty and support than other similar knockoff brands. The battery on it is supposed to be better as well.

Only thing is he said you probably need a diffuser as the beam is pretty narrow as it. His came with a diffuser, even though the listing doesn't say it does. I'm waiting for mine to be delivered before I order one.

Sure thing.

1. I have mid-range USB rechargeable lights: Headlight. Tail light. I will say that the headlight doesn't fit perfectly on the L Train's bars due to the bend in them. But it's plenty bright and lasts a long time. I had it on my old bike and just kept it. I also added Priority full fenders and front basket to make it more useful to me as a commuter. Both were tedious to install (like most fenders and some baskets) but are very solid and haven't given me any issues so far. Here's a link to a picture I posted the first day I rode it to work.
   
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2. I don't need any more gears. The seven are plenty for my rides in Chicago. If I lived in San Fran or Seattle, I'd probably want more lol. In my mind, a parking garage ramp is pretty steep, I wouldn't want to regularly climb hills like that with this bike. I know some people do though, more power to them. I can easily maintain speed while going up overpasses around here though.
   
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3. What I meant by 'spinning out' is that I could pedal faster than the bike was going. Basically, I couldn't speed up anymore, even in 7th. Again, that's only done the one grade on my commute and at that point, I'd guess that I'm probably going about 25-27 mph. No need to go any faster in my mind. On flat ground, I'm not strong enough to maintain top speed in 7th gear for long at all. I usually max out in 5th while commuting through the city.

I do all my riding at night but mostly paved trails. I did a ton of research before buying my lights.

Front:

MagicShine 872 - This is what I use. For Price per lumens you can't beat this thing. It's crazy bright. I have it on 50% most of the time sometimes lower. For distance it's about the same at 50% or 100%. 100% is just much brighter immediately in front of you.


I would actually recommend the MagicShine 808 though. It's a little cheaper and all my research showed the side by side comparisons the 808 actually throws light out a little father. It's just not as bright in the first 25 feet. Since I leave my 872 on 50% it wouldn't matter and I would get a little more distance.

http://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-MJ-808U-Bicycle-Improved-1100-Lumen/dp/B009GSLUR4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1409954087&sr=8-3&keywords=magicshine+872

Both have an external battery pack and don't use a USB charger though. Which for some people is a problem. I don't mind strapping the battery to my top tube.

Edit to add: Neither of these has a flashing or pulse feature. They do have an adjustable brightness level though. 872 has last for roughly 2 hours for me at 100%. The power buttons illuminate to give you a rough estimate of battery level. After a 2 hour ride with it on 50% the entire time it will show that it has more then 50% left. They say it will last 3 hours at 100% but reviews I read said it last 2 1/2 at 100% then dropped its self down the 75% then 50 > so on until it completely died at 6 hours. I've not actually done that myself though.

Rear:

I use Light & Motion Vis 180 - This thing is ridiculously bright and I love it. Full 180 degrees of visibility from the amber lights. It's very expensive though for a taillight.

http://www.amazon.com/Light-Motion-Tail-Silver-Moon/dp/B00LH1W9AU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=light+and+motion+180

My research pointed to Cygolite Hotshot 2W USB being the best bang for your buck. I would have bought this but my LBS didn't carry it and I needed something that night for riding so i got the Light and Motion.

http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409954733&sr=8-1&keywords=Cygolite+Hotshot+2W+USB


Hope this helps.

I find that they are always giving these away at bike events. I have gotten tons of free ones. Go to the urban cycling class - not only is there helpful info, they tend to give these away for free.

I always give mine away.

I am also a fan of spoke reflectors like these.
https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

Easy to install and nearly invisible in the day time.

Naiveté.

Moved from a suburb (where I could have left the bike unlocked in the back of a truck for 2 hours without a worry in the world) to a city for work. Brought the Giant Escape 2 my Dad had given to me, but only had a cheap cable lock and hadn't been given access to my work's bike cage yet.

3rd day of training, my start group and I were headed to happy hour. I walked outside and the bike was gone from the rack outside the office.

I was able to look at the security footage; some dude literally walked up, cut the lock discreetly, and walked away like it was his.

Filed a police report, and went to happy hour. Then I bought the Escape 3 and a Kryptonite U-lock and didn't bring the bike to work until I had bike cage access.

Depending on your location and school, having a gun in your dorm may not be illegal, but merely against the university rules.

If you are going to leave the firearm in your car, I suggest you disassemble it and take the complete upper (slide, barrel and recoil spring assembly) with you. Those components are not considered a firearm, and it leaves the receiver in your vehicle much less valuable a target for theft.

As for securing it in your vehicle, cheapest and most effective option is running a quality U-lock through the mag well and attaching it to a car seat frame (leave it underneath the seat).

This is a good U-lock:

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417384536&sr=8-2&keywords=u+lock

Anything mid-range is fine. Ultimately, unless you want to lug a 20lb chain around, any sort of U-Lock or mid-range chain lock is sufficient for temporary lock-ups.

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496868581&sr=8-3&keywords=kryptonite+u-lock

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PUCSV7C/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00PUCSV7C&pd_rd_r=FZPWAHQ8MTTBST4PJ2P0&pd_rd_w=ngc6h&pd_rd_wg=RU5PQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=C0QCXJ2M8NZ33CV8HY47&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop

I've used both of the above at places like Bradford Beach, restaurants downtown, and Bay View on pretty nice bikes without ever having a problem. Make sure you lock up your front wheel as well, I see a ton of pretty average bikes sitting there without front wheels cuz somebody just used the quick-release and walked off with it.

That's awesome! You're definitely free to come by shop hours and ask advice and use the tools there. We've got all the bike tools you'd need for sure.

I'm sure if you post the picture on our Facebook page you'd get lots of helpful suggestions. To start you off, I'll recommend an Airzound horn. They're ridiculously loud and refillable with your bike pump.

I got a couple of cheap Bright Eyes Headlamps off Amazon. They're not the best head-lamps in the world, but more than good enough for riding, and the price is right.

Night-riding is the best way to beat the heat, and also gives you a nice perspective on the trails that you ride. I really like it - it kind of strips away a lot of distractions, and leaves just you and the trail.

It keeps me riding through Australian summer, and through the heat in Houston.

SecurityIng Waterproof 1200 Lumens XM-L U2 LED Bicycle Light

Twenty bucks. Super bright. Multiple brightness settings. It will light up the road ahead of you. Great for dark roads and bike paths. This thing is brighter and smaller than the halogen lighting kit I spent $150 for, 20 years ago! Has a separate battery pack, which I ziptie to my rear rack (you can put it in a water bottle cage also).

https://www.amazon.com/SecurityIng-Waterproof-Lighting-Headlight-Rechargeable/dp/B00C2MHNJK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504365779

I agree with all this, and in addition I would recommend just getting some cheap sports clothing from your local department store. No need to spend all that money on specialty bike clothes if your commute is only 7 miles. A general sports tee (in the US, my local Target has some sports tees in high-vis orange and yellow for $8) and some sports shorts. Make sure they're made from wicking material or you'll be miserable in the warmer months. For such a short commute though, padded cycle shorts are not necessary. My cycle commute is about 8.5 miles and I've never needed or wanted specialty padded cycle shorts. Most of the year I wear some cheap cargo shorts, in summer it's wicking workout shorts, in the winter I wear lined tights under my work slacks.

Use the money you save to buy some good panniers and fenders.

Get some good lights-- you'll want them just in case you find yourself cycling in low light or if it's cloudy and dark or foggy. At the least, get a good taillight.

If you're worried about sweat and don't have a shower facility available, baby wipes are very helpful. Carry some extra deodorant in your pack too. Bike your route in advance a few times to make sure you've got enough time to get to school and get yourself dressed/prepared.

Not that particular one, but this one. I clipped it to the visor of my helmet rather than wear it on my glasses. It took some getting used to, but by the second day I had the knack for turning my head to see what I wanted to in the mirror with ease. It looks silly and is easy to knock out of adjustment if I do not pay attention, but I like it. Seeing cars come up behind me was actually a little intimidating at first...ignorance was bliss :-)

Something like this is usually recommended: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005YPK9VQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1453278074&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=kryptonite+lock&dpPl=1&dpID=41QbAJlgf7L&ref=plSrch

You won't need the cable though. Get at least sold secure silver.

I have a 'gold' cable (better) , it's super tough. Saw a video on YouTube of someone cutting it like butter. That's why no one recommends cables. It is good to have two locks though,thieves need a way to beat both.

You want as small a ulock as you can get away with. The larger ones are easier to beat (they put a small jack in and pop them open).

If you do a bit of research you should be able to find a decent one in your area for a decent price. Once you know what you want, shop around.

As for a headlight, I have one like this. It's extremely bright and has three settings: high, low, blinking. I feel extremely comfortable with this on my bike and it lasts forever. I also opted for the wide angle lens that I think works great for riding on roads as it doesn't shine directly into the eyes of vehicle drivers.

For a taillight, I have this one. Again, it's got a few options for blinking/solid lights/etc, and the blinking option is super bright. I rode at night once and turned around to see if I could tell how far it was casting and I could see it reflecting off a stop sign about 1-2 blocks away.

One suggestion for a helmet (I don't know your budget), but I backed the Lumos Helmet on Kickstarter and received mine last month. It's awesome, and I feel way more visible with it than with a normal helmet. Plus the turn signals are a major plus!

Yep, any bike shop will have a selection of headlights for bicycles. They clamp on the handlebars, generally. The cheaper ones are powered with AA batteries and some have a rechargeable battery pack. If you go with the AAs, it'll be worth investing in Eneloop rechargeable batteries.

If you have a basket on the front of your bike, it may obscure the light. Some people will ziptie a short piece of PVC to the front of the basket and then mount the light to that. Minoura also makes a basket clamp but they're hard to find in the US for some reason.

When I ride at night I use two headlights - an AA powered one that flashes, and this thing which uses a rechargeable battery back. It's insanely bright.

I haven't ridden through Logan Heights recently but my recollection is that it's pretty bikeable and downtown is an easy ride from there.

One of the things I like most about living here is not needing a car. There are certainly some places I avoid biking to/through, especially at night, out of concern for my safety. If I need to go there, I just use lyft, or get a ride from a friend.

Someone else mentioned that there are no bike lanes - this is not true. There are bike lanes on some roads, but not as many as I personally would like. That said, there are a lot of pretty narrow streets, especially in the quarter/marigny/bywater that simply don't have room for bike lanes.

One recommendation I would make is to get a bike airhorn for the moments when drivers aren't paying attention/don't care about bicyclists/aren't exactly sober, which seems to happen a lot here. This has saved me on quite a few occassions.

That's an airzound. (Or a knockoff... Does anyone make a knockoff?) I have one but the can is starting to rust out, and I'm genuinely unsure if I'm going to replace it or not. (Don't like the idea of a rusty pressure vessel!)

Here's the thing... when you need one, it's great to have. But the problem I have is that the actual trigger mechanism is so fucking huge that there's nowhere to place it on my bike that's within easy reach. As a result it's wayyy off-line for my thumbs so that I have to deliberately take my hand off my bars, search for the mech, and then push it. The upshot is that I'm only able to do that when I have a few seconds warning that I'm going to need to use it (this video would be a good example); it's definitely not something that you can place to reflexively hit in an emergency.

I guess if you had a cruiser with a coaster brake or a fixie that wouldn't be a problem. But I have a gear shifters and brake levers on both sides; there's absolutely no place to fit this giant butt fucking monstrosity on my bars within easy reach.

In the process of kitting out (or identifying kit for when I have the money) for my new (first full sized) bike and have settled on Cat Eye Rapid X (50 lumens).

You can get more powerful ones ( Rapid X2 and X3) but I'm generally anti bright lights as they're often too dazzling or even hurt my eyes when on other biked - pet peeve). Anyway I ramble, they attach by rubber/stretchy plastic band and come with a larger one for seat tube and smaller one to attach to seat stays or rack or anywhere else you fancy inc. one would assume the ability to orient them outwards/side ways for side viability should you want to (though they've got v v wide angle glow anyway).

Reckon I'd get a few for rack down tubes or seat stays each side vertically and and one horizontally to attach to the rear hanging light plate on the end of the rack to maximise the [strikethrough]Akira Neo Tokyo 2019 motorbike look[/strikethrough] visability (and a couple of front ones on the forks to sit either side of a Busch and Muller Eyro mounted centrally on the fork above the front wheel).

Also these wheel reflectors are a cheap and cheerful fix that I'll do, good at catching car headlights as lower down on the bike where they're generally pointing:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00DNG8DSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_6gZMDb3HDV559

https://youtu.be/_5xC7PI3dyI

Re: Cateye Rapid X, believe they were the first of their kind when they first came out quite a while back but the same/similar lights are sold by different brands. Cheap Chinese ebay jobs available too but not sure if the same or cheap lower quality copies, up to you if you want to risk.

Also going to get Tortec Mudguards that have a reflector strip which user reviews say is v good and helpful. Then some reflective rim tape to boot (and then potentially some 'diamond grade' reflective tape that's used on emergency vehicles to strategically place on points along the frame - yes I want my Neo Tokyo/Tron bicycle).

I'm going to assume Philadelphia is a lot like NYC ( where I live) when it comes to bike theft, so I will give you the same advice I give people that move here. Get a Kryptonite u lock. This one is the absolute cheapest that you can go with, but you'd be mush safer going with this. Lock thought the front wheel and frame. I would suggest getting at least a cable lock for the back wheel. Anything quick release will be stolen unless locked down. Best to replace anything that is quick release. No locking method is 100%. Whatever lock you have, there is a tool that can break it. The only thing you can do is not make it worth the effort. So don't go locking up a super nice bike. Lock it whenever you're out of arms length. If someone jumps on it and goes, you'll never catch it.

I have that exact bike. It's a great entry level road bike! Done around 2,500km on it and it's still going strong. I've used it as a commuter with some security quick release skewers (so your wheels don't get stolen easily) and a Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini (possibly the strongest U-lock you can buy, other Kryptonite locks are worth a look too though, for less money).

I have this rack for it. As long you're physically able to climb the hill then the bike will. ;-)

I've never owned a real bike light. The Fenix-Store used to sell these TwoFish LockBlock flashlight mounts and I picked one up when I ordered a replacement PD30 after losing mine 5 or 6 years ago. Have used it on 5 or 6 different bikes with handlebars ranging from skinny CrMo BMX bars to thickly-wrapped, fat mag-aluminum road-bike bars, and with every light I own (except the 1xAAA ones, which I could probably just clip to the velcro loop if necessary). From the narrowest part of an SC52 to a fat plastic incandescent 2x123 light; it holds it securely and doesn't swivel or move even on slick, wet leather or metal. The rubber helps absorb a little bit of the road vibration, but that's an issue with all bike lights I'd imagine. Got left out in the rain/sun/snow for over 2 years while its primary home was outside of a college building. Hasn't started to dry rot or fade or anything. And it hasn't been stolen, which is a miracle in this city. The bungee cords on my pannier rack have been stolen three times, as well as the permanent, screwed-on mount for my taillight (when my taillight wasn't on it), but they never took my little rubber/velcro doohickey. Oh and the Us are different sizes so you can flip it around to accommodate thicker lights or bars. If you have a really thick light and wrapped handlebars you might be in trouble...

Kinda weird to give such a raving review of a piece of rubber with two u-shapes and velcro straps... but as both a flashlight enthusiast and a frequent cyclist, it's helped me cut back on my gear since I can just slap whatever's in my pocket on my handlebars and roll. And then I don't have to invest a bunch of money to have a durable, waterproof, multi-mode (without PWM) bike light. The situation is different now, I guess. Since I assume you can get decent-quality LED bike lights for cheap just like you can get a decent ThorFire flashlight for 9 bucks.

Oh and Zebralights are crazy efficient. I miss my SC52. Even running a measly 840mAh 14500 I could use it for everyday tasks for a few weeks. I'll be picking up another ZL sometime soon :)

All lights you purchase will have mounts included with them, look for USB rechargeable lights as opposed to battery operated lights.

On the frame in the rear

Ultra Bright Bike Light Blitzu Cyborg 168T USB Rechargeable Bicycle Tail Light. Red High Intensity Rear LED Accessories Fits On Any Road Bikes, Helmet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IEJ0GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_TOF7radLPpoOj

Under the saddle.


LE Super Bright Bike Light, USB Rechargeable Rear Tail Light, Cycling Light, 4 LEDs, 5 Light Modes, Red, Cable Included, Fits on any Bicycles, Helmets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0197X16BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_kdJj4Z6x6Tr61


There are much better lights available, I'm upgrading my front currently. So I don't have a link.
And apologies if the links don't work. Not that tech savvy.

Why lights? Safety. Night or day. Be seen, drivers will pay attention.

My $30 tail light Cygolite Hotshot 2-Watt USB Rechargeable Taillight with USB Cable by Cygolite that was recommended to me on Reddit. Its like Ron Jeremy the Hedgehog. IT just goes and goes its small but mighty but smells better than Ron. . I charged it once and it lasted approximately 42 hrs of use in warm weather.

Link: https://amzn.com/B005DVA57Y

also my REI Flash 22 pack for $33.93 is awesome you have to love the dividends.

If only the Urban lights and motion 200 was as good its a total piece of crap in cold weather it lasts one ride before needing charging in hot weather it needs charging every 5 hours. Their claim of 12 hours on low pulse is bull crap

hotshots are good, built in battery, and really bright if you want them to be ( adjustable settings )

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y

Not good for aero seatpost though

Cygolite has really good customer service too, i've contacted them on two separate times about replacement rubber buttons ( lost one in a crash, the other during my ride ) And they mailed me some at no cost.

My headlight from them is kinda poopy, but these taillights are great, mine is going on 2+ years with tons of use and never had any issues and battery still holds fine. Really easy to turn on/off while riding the bike too.

By far, the best cheap light I’ve found is this one by inbike I got it in a lot of amazon return stuff and I didn’t get the mount with it, so I can’t speak for whatever comes with it. The light runs on 18650 cells which are the way to go imo. Pick up a couple more and wall charger and you’re good to go.

I have a version of this one on a couple bikes as well. Same light just non branded. Bright and rechargeable. One has been coated in mud several times and still works fine.

I have a Monster cable lock now and just read the reviews on the brand for the first time. Definitely need to upgrade. I am thinking about something like this. U-locks are supposed to be great, and the cable would help keep the wheels safe.

good questions. this mini u-lock combined with a cable [to secure front wheel, too] is what is now used by most who are serious about securing their ride.

and these two rack designs are typically preferred in the u.s.:

new york city rack - nyc is making this their "city approved" rack after a thorough design contest. bikes can lean against it to be stable; can lock the front, rear, and frame easily; and it looks very clean from a design standpoint

typical "u" tube: these are found a lot and function very similar to the nyc rack. aesthetically they're not as nice but a lot cheaper and good function. you can see how the yellow bike can secure both wheels and the frame.

btw - what country?

• [Crank Brothers multi tool] (http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Bicycle-19-Function-Silver/dp/B0012Q41HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418363910&sr=8-1&keywords=crank+brothers+multi+tool)
  
  
• [Topeak saddlebag] (http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Aero-Wedge-Buckle-Medium/dp/B000FIAU8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364745&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+saddle+bag)
  
  
• [Cygolite Metro 400 Headlight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-400-Rechargeable-Headlight/dp/B00LXTOT6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364255&sr=8-1&keywords=cygolite+metro+400)
  
  
• [Cygolite Hotshot Taillight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_text_y)
  
  
• [CatEye Wireless Bike Computer] (http://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Wireless-Bicycle-Computer-CC-VT220W/dp/B004RE783W/ref=sr_1_16?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1418364327&sr=1-16&keywords=cateye)
  
  
• [Finish Line Chain Lube] (http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-4-Ounce-Squeeze/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting)
  
  
• [Genuine Innovations CO2 Inflator] (http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2628-Ultraflate-Inflator/dp/B002AGI1QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420015344&sr=8-1&keywords=innovations+co2+inflator)
  
  If you're looking to up your riding game, everything listed above will save you from any trouble you have on the road. Cycling computer is always neat to have too!
  
  Cygolite Metro 400 and the Hotshot are brilliant. The lights definitely pack a strong punch. I'll tell you right now, unless the lighting in your town sucks ass or you go off road riding, the metro 400 is a great light and you don't really need to go much higher than that.
  

Here's what I have-

Backpack: https://www.dakine.com/en-us/bags/backpacks/street-backpacks/mission-25l-backpack-17w/

Helmet: https://triple8.com/product/the-certified-sweatsaver/?category_name=skate

Shoes: https://www.vans.com/shop/suede-canvas-old-skool#hero=0

Pads: https://triple8.com/product/saver-series-3-pack-box/?category_name=skate

I only used all of the pads for about the first week or so, but I still wear the wrist guards-they've prevented serious injuries!

​

Board light (tail of the board): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IEJ0GC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Board light #2 (front of the board): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IFA03I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front Backpack light (goes on my backpack strap, or hooked to my jacket on my forward facing shoulder): https://www.olightstore.com/h1r-cool-white.html

Back Backpack light (goes around my backpack): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1SM2NQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The board lights aren't super bright, they're mostly so people can see what I'm riding. The O light makes riding at night very safe, and my back light has great visibility.

As for tools, I carry my skate tool and a couple of hexes, and some spare belts. I have a charger I leave in my office and one in my backpack all the time.

​

Hope this helps!

This is the best advice here. As for a pump, if you're going to go with a regular pump this one is what seemed to come up the most when I searched this sub and it's served me pretty well. It does kinda rattle a bit when riding, though. Down the line you'll probably want to get a regular floor pump, too, something like this maybe.

I'd also agree that gloves aren't necessary. Also agree with two cages and two water bottles. I started with just one bottle but quickly realized that I need two. Any old cage will do, and Camelbak Podium bottles are a popular choice. I got the clear one so I can tell at a glance how much water I have left.

Hey there! I wish you the best of luck in your training and thanks for the contest!

My item is a bike lock. I'm going to be needing a one come Fall when I start school.

I have a Ulock and looped flex-cable. Chains are heavy, and easier to break.

For ulocks, you want to get the smallest one possible that will still let you lock to a pole. That extra space is what lets thiefs get a jack in there to pop it.

My ususal three links I give out to people on theft prevention:

Chicago Bike Blog article

CDOT

Chicago Ambasador's PDF

Also, remember to keep you bike locked someplace safe overnight like in your apartment, or in your buildings storage unit, especially until you have a good feel about how safe your area is at night for your bike.

I have like 4 of these. They're super bright and battery lasts a long time. You can find them on eBay every now and then for $20.

Edit: A year ago I switched to a USB version of the light above. I got mine on eBay for $12, but can be found [here](
http://www.lightinthebox.com/zhishunjia-waterproof-3-mode-1xcree-xm-l2-u2-high-power-bike-lamp-900lm-usb-5v-gray-red_p3984844.html?currency=USD&litb_from=paid_adwords_shopping&sku=429_6917) for around the same price. I use it with a USB power bank, like this. I just put the battery pack in my frame bag. I can charge my phone and light my path at the same time if I want. It's really a great setup!

I have a Cygolite Metro 1100 and Light & Motion Urban 650. Both are enough to see with and ride around 20mph on paved surfaces. They are supposed to last ~1.5hrs at peak output. After dark, I ride with both.

I find that the typical advertised runtime on 500+ lumen lights doesn't go past 2hrs without an additional battery pack (not all have swappable batteries). Only the cheap lights aren't weather resistant.

Other brands such as Nite Rider, Lezyne, and Cateye make some really bright lights. I wouldn't go below 500 lumens if you ride with any pace.

As for taillights, a Cygolite Hotshot and Light & Motion Vis 180. I think I go a good week before recharging. I ride with both after dark and one all the time.

As far as flashing and constant, I do one of each in back when in traffic, constant on trails. Headlights are always constant and I turn off the super bright one on trails.

I use this heavy ass lock. A hacksaw can still cut through it, but it takes more time.

I also use a cable to secure my quick-release front wheel.

There's no sure way to secure your bike, all you can do is use good locking stratagy. Lock it to something solid in a well lit place where people are more likely to notice a theif holding a saw or bolt cutters.

Instead of something that's simply heavier, I'd go with a U-Lock + cable combo. The smaller you can get the better! Harder to break if it's really tight to the bike. Here's a great mini version of the above lock style: http://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-3-25-Inch-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1450290745&sr=1-3&keywords=kryptonite+u-lock+mini

Good luck finding your bike.

My preference for lights depends on the type of conditions I'm riding in. In daylight or early evening, a blinking light is good for making you more visible. At night along dark paths, a solid light is crucial for being able to actually see what's in front of me. In dark conditions, a blinking on/off light will make it harder for other people to track you, which is why a combination is good.
In order to not worry about a huge number of lights, I like the Cygolite Metro which has a steady-flash mode where there is a solid light with a little pulse, so it both gives light and attracts attention without being annoying. I also have a taillight where the light moves back and forth instead of blinking.

1. Lights yes. Drivers here suck. Pedestrians here suck. Hell, most of the other cyclists on campus and around Berkeley suck too if I'm going to be honest... You want everyone to see you, and you also want to be able to see, especially the potholes and pedestrians.
   
   It's winter so lights are a super worthy investment, especially because they last a long time and you'll be able to use them for years before you run into battery/durability issues.
   
   You don't really need the lock posted in the comment you replied to. I mean I have one myself and all, but I don't carry it normally because the value of my campus commuter isn't worth the weight of the lock (that bitch is heavy.) I only use it if I happen to want to ride one of my nicer bikes around, or if I'm going to be parking my bike at the BART station or downtown for a whole day- that kind of thing.
   
   IMO the Evolution Series 2 U-lock plus the cable is going to be fine for most on campus usage as long as you're not leaving the bike unattended for a whole day, or overnight. Biggest thing when locking up is doing it properly. Make sure the u-lock gets the frame and your rear wheel both, and use your cable for the front.
   
   
2. It's a pretty meh choice. A popular bikesdirect road bike is the Windsor Wellington, but I wouldn't recommend it either. The money you save on the bike itself is not worth the frustration from riding a poorly assembled and adjusted bike. You'd pay $100 at any of the local shops to have them assemble and adjust it anyway, and riding an improperly adjusted bike is an un-fun PITA. Doing the assembling and adjusting yourself is "easy" but doing it right takes some tools you may not have, and some finesse that takes a while to learn. That being said, the cheapest road bike from one of the LBSs (Local Bike Shops) here will run you at least upper 600s IIRC, so take your pick.
   
   If you think you'll be riding regularly though, as transportation and recommendation, I highly recommend you go with an LBS option because people who know what they're talking about will guide you through your choices.

Road bikes are great lighter the easier it is to ride, it might be worth getting slime tyres to stop punctures, I have a triangle bag that goes inside the frame that I put a small pump and a multi tool in + my lunch on a weekday.

I would recommend two thick D locks to use when parking, I thread the 'D' through the bag buckles and keep the keys and lock in the Bag.

for weather gear you need a rain layer warm layer and sweat layer to keep out the cold. waterproof gloves, goggles or eye protection.

Fenders would be a good choice as well to stop mud flicking up.

Don't get a mountain bike, really not very easy to ride and heavy. Also lights

If you're not averse to heading across to Kirkland, this one is a solid option for $50: https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/bik/6172493923.html - 17" should be right for 5'6" and at that price you can add $20 fenders, a $20 rack, $20 in lights (front and rear!) and $40 on a u lock with auxiliary cable - bike theft is pretty rampant in Seattle and campuses are often hit. If everyone around you has sad cable locks and you've got the bother of a u-lock and a cable, your chances of the bike making it through the year in your possession increase greatly. (Hot tips on how to actually lock up once you have said lock - http://www.sfbike.org/resources/theft-locking/ )

Alternate options: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/6164879482.html - up in shoreline and $155 but this Specialized Hardrock should be a good fit at 16" and still has a bit in the budget for a rack/fenders/lock/lights. Plus it looks to be in good shape.

A few bits of advice:

1. Don't lock it outside overnight. Keep it in your apartment.
   
2. Buy used. I don't know where the hell you can find a bike of any quality for $15, but you can get some for less than $100. Look on Craigslist, beware scammers, and please don't buy a bike from a bike thief.
   
3. Get a decent U-lock. This one is pretty good. Use the included cable to loop around your front wheel. The cable is a bit short, but it's long enough to get the wheel. Unfortunately it is NOT long enough to get both the wheel and seatpost, at least not on my bike. If you're worried about that, get a 7' cable instead. All locks are breakable, of course, but a decent U-lock will thwart casual thieves and encourage the pros to move on to the next bike that's less secured.
   
4. Don't ride drunk. Combined with #1, that means don't ride it anywhere if you plan on drinking.
   
   I've been riding an old mountain bike I got for $70 off Craigslist for a few years. It looks its age but it rides like a champ. Yes, it's silly that my locks cost nearly as much as my bike, but I don't care. I'm a little paranoid.

I use this one when on my road bike and love it. Real glass and good view : Bike Peddler Take A Look Cycling Eyeglass Mirror (Original) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C17M26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pfK7AbNJE12AJ

This one is installed on the bar end on my commuter. Glass, good optics, wide field of view: Mirrycle Mountain Bike Mirror https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BR4NIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ShK7Ab0A8YWC2

Mirrors have saved my bacon multiple times and I don’t ride without anymore.

+1 to both points above. I got the 550 usb-rechargable cygolite in 2015 and it's been going strong ever since:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LXTORC4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

def strong enough to see and be seen in reasonable conditions. Pretty much anything except midnight fog single tracking :)

Yeah, they're definitely more 'theft deterrence' than theft proof. Basically whatever makes your bike less appealing to steal than the cable locked one next to it. Generally Kryptonite locks are well regarded, but the price reflects that. They'll have different ratings for 'medium theft' and 'high theft' areas. Vancouver's generally 'high'. This isn't their highest $100+ style lock but it's nice because it comes with a cable you can use to secure the wheels if they're quick release - http://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2 For reference, because locks are only useful if used correctly, this is a handy guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryY-qMFLcfo

Any lock can be broken given time, more secure locks take more time. There are various opinions and you can look at various tests people have done (Men's Journal/Gizmodo). However I tend to recommend a u-lock, the chains are very secure but heavy.

Example of a Chain

The Lock I Have

Every brand has various security levels, so you can research and see where your cost to security ratio is, but a cheap lock will be cheap and easier to get through.

Rather than standard tire levers, I prefer to use a speed lever for changing my tubes/tires. Though I think I want to pick up one of their speedier levers, because that knuckle protection looks pretty sweet.

For a pump, I'm a huge fan of the Topeak Road Morph G. Though on one of my bikes I forgo the pump and just ride with CO2 and a chuck since I flat so rarely and it fit is my seat bag (though I still always carry two tubes).

And as others have said I try to never go for a ride without my multi-tool an ID some cash, a bank or credit card, and my phone.

I've found buying from places like dx.com (basically a chinese distributor) to be really good for buying inexpensive lights. I currently use these:

http://www.dx.com/p/bicycle-bike-2-mode-3-led-red-light-tail-warning-safety-light-red-white-2-x-aaa-120031

which is a direct knock off of http://www.amazon.com/Planet-Bike-Blinky-eXtreme-Bicycle/dp/B000KBEH1W/

and

http://www.dx.com/p/singfire-sf-607-2-x-cree-xm-l-t6-2000lm-cool-white-4-mode-bicycle-flashlight-black-4-x-18650-230382

which while not anywhere close to the brightest headlight that they sell, is brighter than any bike light I've seen on the road at full power. (I typically ride around the city at the low or 1/4 power setting and ride on dark trails at medium or 1/2 power setting) At full power, I measured it at 15 Watts which is huge for an LED light (equivalent to a 60W lightbulb and almost as much as a car headlight).

Do you want them to see in the dark, or to be seen?

These are the best:
http://www.dinottelighting.com/

They are not cheap.

Here is a much more affordable tail light:
http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1372712157&sr=8-4&keywords=cygolite+bike+lights

In my opinion, any of the super cheap blinky lights (e.g. Knog, ~$10) are a waste of money. They won't make you more noticeable. I don't know how much you care, but there are plenty of youtube videos demonstrating how bright some of these lights are. Without knowing your budget, it's hard to recommend something.

I have two bikes, one I bought from Century Cycles, and another I got off craigslist for super cheap. The one from craigslist is my favorite, and there were a ton more on there that I loved. The one I got on craigslist goes for around $700 brand new, but I got it from the guy for I think around $280ish.

I also live in an apartment, and I bought one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UUEF7E/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 holds both bikes just fine, and they are both large sizes (for someone around my height - 6' 2")

EDIT: also get yourself a nice bike lock: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_4?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1374593601&sr=1-4&keywords=bike+lock

Speaking of limited means, people will steal a bike that's only worth $100. $100 can be a lot to someone with limited means. If they lose their bike and have trouble getting into work, they're out even more.

That sounds obvious, but I'm getting somewhere with it. The argument of "they should protect their stuff better" falls flat when you start talking about people of limited means. A "decent" lock runs about $35-40. That's a lock you're going to be able to break quickly if you have an angle grinder, or even just a long enough pry bar. To get really good (note: not impenetrable) security, you're looking at about $100. And that lock doesn't even include a cable like the $40 one did, so you're spending even more to make sure you don't get a wheel stolen.

So suddenly the person on the $100 used bike has to spend somewhere between an additional $40-100 to have a hope that their means of transportation won't get stolen. That puts an even greater burden on people with limited means.

I've been using this one for quite a few years, and I love it! Really awesome small solution with great replacement parts for the whole unit. It's another pump that a lot of people swear by (including myself, but I am fallible like the rest)
http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395611696&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+road+morph

1. Airzound. It mounts to your bars, a bottle holds the compressed air and goes in your wsterbottle cage. 115db horn. Can be purchased many places, but here is where I got it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_wfksDb98VW2V7
   
   
2. Yes, often the framerates, passing speeds, angle, water drops on the lense, etc can render the few frames of the plate being visible as unreadable. Letters can be harder to define after the fact. Usually in all the whole plate, but ibwas trying to read the trucks plate before the trailer passed. I was also gassed as I had just been sprinting. Note the speedometer... this is added afterwards using GPS data.
   Learn your phonetic alphabet as well. I'll typically call it out quick then phonetically "A, B, C; 1, 2, 3, 4... Alpha - Bravo - Charlie".
   
   
3. Yes, rear camera tells more of the story. How close was the car, how fast did they come up on you, how close were they, how long were they behind you?
   By mounting it rear facing off of your bars at an angle like mine is, it also shows perspective of close passes. It captures the rider (me), my bike, road position and the overtaking vehicles pisiton. Sometimes it can also capture the drivers face, but usually angle/glare dont yield good results on this.
   I like to have my 7 on my helmet so that if I look at someone, it looks where I do (like when I stopped to try to educate this gentleman.)
   
   
4. You didn't ask, but hey... I always try to control my temper and be respectful. My purpose is to attempt to educate the driver as to why I was riding like I was, and give some insight. Usually that fails, but ocassionslly I get through to someone. That makes it worth it.

Budget's too low to buy a quality lock. Just browsing Amazon.ca and the cheapest one I would recommend is this one.

There are some OnGuard ones too for less, but the reviews were mixed and some said that the locks freeze in the winter. You could check those out if you want but read the reviews because they do some sneaky things like making the U part thinner to save on weight (but it actually just makes it a easier lock to break).

Just gonna paste an email I sent a friend with a similar question:

On the bars:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QQX3C4/
With:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B004WLCLQY/
And:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AAQOV5E/

The wide angle thing is important for bar lights, otherwise it's too much of a spotlight and when you turn your bars you can't see the trail. With that big battery it's good on high for 3 hours.

My old light just broke and I replaced it with this. I've only used it once, but the specs looked good and it worked well. I don't know if it's good for 3 hours though:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B00C2MHNJK/

The battery is claimed to be 6400mah, but it's much smaller than the big 6600 mah battery I linked above. Not sure who's lying on their specs.

All-in, you're at about $70. Not too shabby, 'specially considering it used to be 4 bills for a 2-light setup.

Can always run it on low to keep from blinding folks.

I use this to lock the frame and front wheel to whatever I'm locking my bike to and this to secure my back wheel to my frame. I also fun a wire through the second one to secure my saddle.

Locking your bike up is all about deterrence. A determined and knowledgeable thief can get through any lock. The best way to deter a thief is to make sure other bikes are more attractive targets. A good thief could get through both the locks I listed - and any other lock - with an angle grinder, but the trouble of getting through one very heavy duty lock as well as secondary one will make a thief think twice when 90% of the bikes locked up are going to be easier to steal.

As far as other tips: DO NOT LEAVE YOUR BIKE OUTSIDE OVERNIGHT! Bring it up to your apartment or dorm. This isn't always possible but the chances of a bike getting stolen go up tremendously if a bike is left out all night in the dark. When your out and about during the day, try to lock it in a well trafficked area and if possible somewhere where there are other bikes which - as I said - will hopefully be easier targets for theft. Better them than you bro.

I just bought this Cygolite Metro 360 head light and this Cygolite Hotshot tail light a few days ago. They are well reviewed and seem blindingly bright when I look at them inside. Several different flash modes and are both USB rechargeable.

As for other products which can save your life, a cell phone and a credit/debit card will be useful if you're stranded somewhere. Wearing a Road ID will be helpful to emergency personnel if you're unable to communicate.

To answer your first question in terms of areas where bike theft happens more, I'd just say avoid areas that are hidden or away from every day pedestrian traffic. Don't lock it up in an alleyway that people never go down.

I have a bike that is about the same price as yours. I've been commuting all over Columbus for five years now and I've never had my bicycle stolen.

I would HIGHLY suggest that you get a good u-lock. That's all you really need. If you're concerned about someone running off with your wheels you can also get one of the u-locks that also have the cable for your wheels. Here is the U-Lock that I bought I've had that lock the entire time and I've had no issues with it.

Also, make sure you lock it to something sturdy. Preferably a good bike rack that you can get your bike lock through the frame of your bike. I prefer to lock it through the back wheel and the and the top bar that goes from the seat post to the back wheel.

Also final word of advice is definitely do not leave your bicycle out over night.

Additional stuff. If you have any stuff on your bicycle, like a light (you should probably get one if you plan on riding at night, and get a nice 550 lumen one), make sure you take them off when you've locked your bike up.

It depends on the route and season. If it's going to be a wet ride with 14 hours of no sun, then I run a dynamo hub with lights. The S&P hubs are relatively cheap. And I pair it with a IQ2 LUXOS U, though I am looking into an Exposure Revo MK1.

For speedier rides in the 5hr zone, I'll strap on one of these. The beam is a bit narrow for road use and it is symmetric so you have to be careful about blinding drivers. A spare battery is also pretty cheap, so you can have 10hrs of for $60 which is probably the best deal anywhere.

Finally, if I am doing something short like a 300/400k (well some 400k anyways), I'll throw on an Nightrider Lumina 750. The 5:30hr rating may be a bit optimistic, or my lights are getting a bit old.

As for lux... yea it's a German standard thing. I always wiki it (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lux) and look at the examples they have. You can also see an example of that beam here: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.asp

It looks about the same output as my Nightrider at 200lumens.

On Amazon.com the Most helpful Customer Comment for the Topeak Joe Blow Sport II Floor Pump at the top of the page has only two stars:

>186 of 191 people found the following review helpful

>cheapo materials

>By iiigoiii on June 17, 2011

>there's a couple of problems with these pumps, as other reviewers have pointed out for this pump and the original sport.

>- the head can be difficult to get a seal with, especially on the presta side. it may take several tries before being able to get air to flow,

>- the dual head is large, making it difficult to get onto smaller wheels with closer spokes,

>- the hose material is a cheap plastic, not rubber - it quickly starts to crack wherever it's bent (near the outlet and where it's stored over the handle) and soon blows out.

>their support company, todson, refuses to warranty the hose even though it's a material defect. instead of paying them a third to half the cost of a new pump, get 3/16" fuel line from your local auto parts store. fits perfectly, will last a lifetime, and only costs about two bucks!

This review, and the 186 people who agree with it, gives me cause for concern, particularly with the small Brompton wheels, hence why I am on here looking for input. :-)

Just remember that the best lock is one that looks better than the one next to it - it's a deterrent first and foremost (though the fuhgeddaboudit lock has a good track record).
And of course, if you can, try to keep your bike indoors or in a lockup if you're not on it!

If you know of any cycling clubs (or are already a member) you'll be able to get insurance cheaper through them usually. Ask your LBS - they'll know the ins and outs.

Pob lwc!

This one I have - cheapish and pretty bright - Planet Bike Superflash bike tail light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KBEH1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_J2p7BbMVMEARK

This one is a little more and twice as bright - NiteRider Solas 250 Tail Light Black, One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DGGJGXJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_53p7BbTK9EEPW

This one is semi expensive but heavy duty. It's a bit on the big side too. I think it would work good on molle webbing. I have a tactical backpack myself and was thinking about picking it up. Blackburn Dayblazer 125 Tail Light Black, One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DFRQNZL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_f5p7BbDTNVG7G

Edit : These all work well for me with my tactical backpack but depends one what your rocking

FWIW, I'm in the Pacific Northwest and commute all year.

I've been using this gear with great success and good relative comfort:

http://amzn.com/B00DQZ0S3K

https://www.showerspass.com/products/club-shoe-covers

http://www.columbia.com/mens-evapouration-jacket-RM2023.html

http://amzn.com/B00435IPFK

http://amzn.com/B008KUXRAW

Wear your helmet over your hood, and a pair of regular safety glasses. When it is really cold I add a balaclava and a fleece jacket. Fenders are a must to keep the dirt down, and I use this lube in the winter:

http://amzn.com/B000WYCD5O

I have an old pair of windproof campmor gloves that are no longer made. If you get cold just pedal harder. It almost never happens, I'm usually too hot.

Your bike depends on your distance, speed and budget. Make sure you get disc brakes, mandatory in my opinion for the higher speeds. This is my ride: http://i.imgur.com/bXXJkjS.jpg, just passed 1400 miles. It is BBS02 on a Kona Dew, I've since switched to Schwalbe Marathon tires. Cost about $1100 and has already paid for itself in gas and parking. 35mph for ~10 miles, 25 mph for 30-40 miles.

Oh, and fuck the snow and ice. Those are the days I drive or work from home.

For rear lights, I recently scientifically determined that the Cygolite Hotshot 2W is the best rear light under $200 you can find (it's $27, and nothing else in that price range compares). You can read my full comparison of 15 different popular rear lights here, as well as the related reddit discussion.

Not on the body, but this is what I use on my almost nightly rides. The frame bag has two nice pockets that make gear easily accessible. Room for my wallet, phone, and repair kit too. I also have a powerful 1200 lumen light that lets me see what's happening farther ahead.
http://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup.asp?igpk=2126186169&TID=367&gclid=COza-7O2g7gCFZBaMgodVQUAtA
http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4

A lot of hand pumps are tough to get skinny tire pressures, but I've had really good luck with the Road Morph. The nice little hose lets you put the thing on the ground and pump against the ground like a little floor pump. 110psi no problem.

Man, thanks everyone for the responses. I promise I was never trying to be a jerk with the flashing light. I'll not do that anymore (I of course knew it was bright enough to get noticed, didn't think about peoples' lack of ability to perceive motion from the flashing).

I'm going to try the suggested tip to aim the light from 50m at a wall tonight. Also going to see about finding a good and/or diffuser lens for my light. Between these changes, hopefully I'll have better outcomes.

I don't have to ride in the dark enough to buy a more exspensive light, but who knows, maybe Santa will come thru.

FWIW drivers are still jerks sometime, no matter what we do. BUT, hopefully I can be safer, make them more aware, and not ruffle their feathers (too much, a little can be productive! ᕕ( ᐛ )ᕗ).

For all those in the US that do so, enjoy your Thanksgiving! For the rest of you--enjoy your day anyway!

Yep, most visible-light LEDs have almost no UV. However, use good LEDs, no cheap ones. You want "binned" LEDs; those having a specific color temperature. There's more of a guarantee that there will be no UV.

I like Cree XM-L T6 (T6 is the bin code--warm white.) XM-L LEDs are very efficient, and can get very, very bright if pushed to their max. current. At high currents they do get hot, and require heat sinks to avoid burning out. You can find XM-L flashlight/bike light/head lamps that are real cheap when ordered from China. Wire the battery terminals up to a wall adapter, and they' can be pretty decent lamps. IKEA has some cheap-ish ($10,) but less-bright LED desk lamps. Right now I'm using 4 of those for my emulsion work.

Really frickin' bright bike light...

I biked through Wichita Falls this summer on a cross country trip! Biking from Wichita Falls to Lawton, OK was one of my favorite days of the entire trip. Might not be the prettiest city, but some of the countryside north of there is great. (Also you guys have the Hotter Than Hell 100!)

For accessories you definitely want to get a hefty U-lock (this is a good one) and learn how to lock it up correctly. If you are going to be biking at night, get a front and rear light. If you are sticking to roads with street lights you need a "be seen" front light, if you are going to be biking in the real dark you'll need a higher powered "seeing" front light.

Good point. I'll save for some saddle and wheels. My current Kilo TT seat looks brand new so I'm planning on replacing it when it wears out. I got a helmet, front brakes, and grip yesterday so I'm thinking I should get a lock first before I buy more parts haha.

I'm looking at this one right now!
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch/dp/B005YPK9VQ?t=slicinc-20&tag=slicinc-20&ascsubtag=azbSmMjDEeKhJ47FIPa4tA0_2syZ3_USN_0_0

Do you use a lock? Which do you use?

I commute almost everywhere by bike so I have a few for different needs.

My main bike, the one I use for grocery shopping, camping, and commuting distances over 3 miles is a 90s Rockhopper mtb rebuild set up to run 700c-32 road wheels http://imgur.com/To82YWK or 26in-2.4 fatties http://imgur.com/T1RL9tg. I'll thank Paul V-brakes for the ability to switch rim brake wheels in ~5 min.

For quick, short, and minimal gear commutes I ride a Fuji Feather single speed. (I rode fixed for a couple years and while I love it, my knees like to coast). http://imgur.com/c5DgYhW

For travel, or when I want to ride somewhere and go home drunk, or when I get a ride somewhere and want to ride home, I have a modded Brompton. After being totally bummed out by the Brompton's gearing I swapped it out to an 11 speed IGH. Much better. http://imgur.com/8THV0Vu and http://imgur.com/6cbE1aS

All of my commuters are set up with an AirZound, a ridiculously loud compressed air horn you can refill with a bike pump. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_awdm_wom5wb03ET7M4

The mirrors that you can attach to your helmet or glasses are much better. Bar mounted mirrors rely in part on the direction the bars are point, which may not be where you actually want to look.

A helmet/glass mounted system allows you the freedom to control you view, whether it be close behind or further away.

I mount my Take A Look on a pair of shooter / safety glasses.

I posted this at r/cycling with no responses so I'll try here since it seems more active.

I am in need of a light (soon).

I am starting to ride my bike to work, and with winter setting in I'll be riding in the dark when it's not freezing out. I ran across these two lights on Amazon, are they any good?

1st choice: http://www.amazon.com/Best-Rechargeable-Lumen-Bicycle-Light/dp/B00GJZ015Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1410199224&sr=1-1

2nd choice: http://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-LIFETIME-GUARANTEE-SHIPPING-INTENSITY/dp/B00GGR0XD0/ref=sr_1_3?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1410199224&sr=1-3

Those were the top two ranked so I'm not married to them, just trying to get a feel for what I should look at.

I'm riding on streets/frontage roads for 10 miles each way, about 40 minutes of ride time each way. I'm not opposed to an external battery pack. If it matters my bike is a Trek 3900 that is a few years old.

Thanks!

This is the best one I have seen in terms of construction and flexibility. bonus for cheezy packaging

http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO

And an Airzound horn when a bell isn't loud enough. I started off with just an Airzound, but it scares the shit out of pedestrians and isn't really appropriate if you only want to announce your presence, so I bought this bell for $9 and save my horn for people with headphones, people blocking the path who don't react to the bell, and cars. The bell is very elegant, and most people seem to recognize two quick bell rings as a bicycle approaching. Yelling is still better than risking an accident by silently zooming by a pedestrian or cyclist who has no idea you're coming, but my rides are more pleasant with the bell.

Just lock it properly. Sturdy u-lock and a cable. The goal is to make it not worth a thief's time. So a more expensive bike requires more sophisticated deterrents.

Priorities when locking:

1. U-lock through frame, one wheel, and rack; cable through other wheel
   
2. U-lock through frame and rack; cable through wheels
   
3. Worst case scenario: cable through frame and wheels; u-lock to rack
   
   ---
   
   An example of the lock/cable setup can be found here: amazon
   
   Personally, I use a slim u-lock like this because it's lighter, but it has the draw back of being more difficult to find the right fit for some racks.
   
   If you would like to know more on the topic this video is a great resource.

I'm sort of a cheap-ass when something really cheap does the job. With that in mind, for a headlight, I use one of these. In the city, all you need is the lowest setting and get the lens that flattens out the beam, otherwise the beam pattern is perfectly round, which is practically useless on a bike.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QQX3C4/ref=oh_details_o01_s02_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For tailights, I use three of something that are almost identical to these, but I pick them up at the local Fred Meyer for $6 a piece. They don't have any mechanism to attach to a bike, the belt clip just happens to fit perfectly on the back of my rack and I use a loop of velcro to attach one to the back of my helmet.

http://www.amazon.com/Personal-Flashing-Safety-Light-Belt/dp/B001JPS5BQ/ref=pd_bxgy_lg_text_y

Always carry a spare tube, patches, a hand-pump, and a multitool.

I'd recommend a bike airhorn. Might seem absurd, but it's highly effective at:

• Getting drivers to put down their cell long enough to proceed through the green light.
  
• Clearing glassy-eyed, drooling homeless out of the bike lane (bells are often insufficient to overcome the drug stupor).
  
• Setting it off in the I-90 bike tunnel for your amusement (the echo is awesome!).
  
  https://smile.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

Can't believe no one mentioned the airzound. $30 bucks. Basically a metal container that you fill with air (using a bike pump) and you have a air horn attached to the other end. Its the size of a water bottle and comes with mounts so its easy to install on a bike.Saved my ass many times and I've had it for years. On the horn itself, there's a pressure modulator so you can adjust how loud you want it to be. It's much louder than a car horn so if you're using it around people I suggest lowering it a bit, but it's perfect for places like the Brooklyn Bridge where people get in the path and biking up 8th Ave.

Edit: it's actually on sale so I would jump on this offer if I didn't have one already.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ACAMJC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483767526&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=airzound&dpPl=1&dpID=4142OBsQHPL&ref=plSrch


I can post pics of my setup if anyone's interested.

Just to be specific, these are the two models I'm talking about.

Chain This model specifically because it's the 18mm version with the Fahgettaboudit lock. The chain being 18mm means it's too large to cut with bolt cutters. The lock is also a Fahgettaboudit style lock which means it has two locking hasps, requiring a minimum of two cuts to remove the lock itself. It's a pain to get through either with a battery powered angle grinder, though that will work eventually. Angle grinder > any lock unfortunately.

U-Lock This is my every-day lock, and it's this one because it's the smaller of the two, which prevents people from jamming a jack in there. I don't know if you could even get it done without something like a 12 or 15 ton bottle jack, but I like the security. There's less flexibility in what you can lock to, but it's security is top shelf.

Also highly recomended

I can confirm that the Tech EOS kicks ass. Battery life is impressive considering how small it is (I've ridden every day for around an hour for the past month and a half and it's still going fine). Bright enough that I can avoid potholes.

Also, the PDW Danger Zone is an awesome tail light. I've used it with the Tech EOS and it's still kicking as well. It's a really bright fucking tail light, and it looks sweet.

I like and use this light. On its max setting, it's too bright for lit streets or two way bike paths, but it's nice when I get out into my neighborhood with very little lighting. I usually use it on the first or second brightness setting on paths or roads. I've seen it as cheap as $35 or so on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-550-USB-Light/dp/B00LXTORC4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485022128&sr=1-1&keywords=cygolite+metro+550

When it comes down to it, the other guy is right. It's really all about the angle of the light, not the lumens.

I've been good with a 450 lumen Cygolite on the front, and a Bontrager Flare R on the back.

But the Cygolite Hotshot Pro is a really good taillight too (guys in my group run them), so I'd recommend picking up a combo pack, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/CYGOLITE-LIGHT-COMBO-METRO-HOTSHOT/dp/B07545T4Y9/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=cygolite+combo&qid=1550174357&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

Also, I always run two taillights for redundancy, I've had my tail light stop working before, and I didn't know, so consider picking up a lower cost hotshot as well, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=cygolite+hotshot&qid=1550174600&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Forget bells, these horns are much more effective, motorists never hear bells from inside their cars.. As for pedestrians shouting is usually pretty effective.

Thanks! Any tips for where to sit/how to hold the bike on mass transit? I was successfully able to hold it out a little bit so that 2 people could sit on either side of me and nobody licked the flood trying to walk around the bike.

I read how to correctly lock up a bike, and bought this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPK8G2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It has good reviews so hopefully it'll work out.

Have you looked at the direct-from-china MagicShine clones? There are quite a few variants out there ranging from "500" to "2300" lumen for not a whole helluva lot of money.

I hear the amazon linked one works pretty well zip-tied to a helmet. Buying 2 (maybe one from a different seller) and mounting one with the wide angle lens on the bars would be a cost effective way to light up everything in front of you.

I use a Cygolite Metro 550 up front, and a Blitzu Blitzu Cyborg 168T on the rear.

I don't use turn/brake lights. I don't think they offer an added benefit, and are kinda fiddly to get them to work 100% reliably. If you're using a signaling device ... it should be 100% reliable. I think having a rear flasher is plenty as it simply says "See me! I'm a bicycle and slower than you!".

The cygolite is plenty bright for riding on unlit roads, and has multiple modes/brightness levels. I mostly use the "strobe" during daylight hours, and "steady pulse" mode after sunset.

The blizu offers a few brightness levels on "steady", as well as 3 flashing modes (strobe, bright pulse, less-bright pulse). The strobe mode is very fast ... like a strobe light in a disco. The pulse mode is sort of "normal" flashing like a car's turn signal. I use the "strobe" mode during the day for its attention-grabbing ability, and the less-frantic "pulse" mode at night to ensure it gets people's attention without inducing seizures.

Both are USB rechargeable, which was a big deciding factor for me. I hate having to buy/replace batteries all the time. A "desired" feature would be a design that allows USB charging with replaceable batteries (using industry-standard sizes) for longer outings, but these generally last long enough for most of my excursions.

What kind of pumps did you have trouble with? Stem mounted ones I presume?

If you're still interested in a pump, I'd recommend you get one with a hose. I have a Topeak Road Morph G and it works great. It functions like a floor pump so you can use your body weight when pumping.

I don't wear a helmet so I normally use the headstrap for cycling, but I also made good experiences with this double-strap-thingy on my old bike. I used it for a normal flashlight but I see no reason why it shouldn't work turned 90° with the Wizard Pro. Hope that helps.

http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y

This is hands down the best rear light out there. There are three or four modes of flashing types and you're able to increase or decrease the tempo of each.

The light is so bright that the red light is visible on the ground behind you.

It's also rechargeable.

They have a mini version too, and it's just as powerful.

As someone who has gotten a bike stolen I cannot recommend this u-lock strong enough. I have a pretty expensive road bike, and using two of these has keep me safe ALL this semester. HIGHLY recommend. The only con is that these u locks are heavy--they're built like bricks though. Don't skimp out on the locks--you'll regret it. Also, remember to lock your wheel and frame to the bike stand, and to lock your back wheel to the frame. Sometimes they'll simply take your wheel so don't risk it!

Cable locks keep honest people honest. Consider something like this or this.

You're welcome! They send you a bright blue non-removable sticker to put on your bike, identifying it as registered with the police. Could be an additional deterrent, who knows.

Locking: Sturdy U-Lock (like the New York Fahgettaboudit) through the frame & rack, sturdy cable lock (I have this one) through the wheels and secured to your U-lock. Locks are still only a deterrent, but that and locking in a highly visible location could be enough. At least, I've had luck with it. Knocks on wood

Half my commute is after dark. I like putting a couple 3M reflective thingies on my spokes for side visibility and I have lights on the front and back of the helmet to make sure I'm seen over the top of cars.

The helmet light is especially nice for aiming right at cars waiting at side streets to make sure they see me. I've stopped cars in the act of pulling out in front of me several times by hitting them with the beam from my helmet light. I use an LED flashlight.

I commute to work at night as well. I use a Cygolite Expillion 350 headlight on the front and two Planet Bike Superflash taillights on the back. I also wear a yellow traffic safety vest with retro-reflective stripes.

I have been riding at night for more than a year now without incident. I have been told by a coworker who passed me riding to work at night that he could see me a half mile away, lit up and glowing like a Christmas tree. All of this stuff will cost about $100, but it could save your life.

This one is my favorite of the lights I use, and it's rechargeable:

https://www.amazon.com/Blitzu-Rechargeable-Intensity-Accessories-Flashlight/dp/B015IEJ0GC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511376731&sr=8-6&keywords=

This one also works great, and runs on 2x AAA batteries:

https://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Omni-Bike-Light-Rear/dp/B008QVXQ1K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1511376770&sr=8-8&keywords=

For the front, I use this thingy with any number of rechargeable (18650 powered) flashlights that I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Two-Fish-Lockblocks-Flashlight-Holder/dp/B001CJXB5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511376885&sr=8-1&keywords=

I generally have to ride kitted out because I can't be in the sun for very long. I find my entire kit very comfortable though more so for being outside. If its a quick trip it isn't worth the time to change. Any more then that and I'll be physically cooler, and more comfortable on longer rides. I can't be outside for too long because of vitiligo without covering up anyways.

I use cameras for multiple purposes. To document interactions, to document idiotic actions -- even mine. Their main purpose though is to have a record in case of an accident and for that purpose I want to be able to clearly identify the driver and license plate. This requires good resolution front and back. I'm tempted to just use two generic go pro style cameras but then I'll have to remember to turn them on, charge them, etc. I'd like one battery pack at most and maybe one switch.

I have a very bright front headlight similar to this that runs off of a battery pack. We have a total of 4 battery packs that we use over 2 different bicycles. The backlights I have are AAA powered and I keep a backup (lights and batteries). I currently switched lights and I have about 6 of the new ones and maybe 3 of the old ones. I also typically care 2 or 3 cheap "to be seen" emergency lights.

Best experience is having a really crappy day at work and taking all the frustration out on the way home crushing my record. I'm just too physically exhausted to be upset. Then, after I've relaxed I perk up and realize that I just crushed my previous best travel time.

My worst experiences excluding being hit or nearly hit would be engaging with idiots that yell at me. Normally I let it go but sometimes I won't because I'm tired of it and I'll catch up to yell at them. For me to have the desire and ability to do this I've got to be pretty pissed which means I'm potentially running into a really shitty situation blind. I never worry about it in the moment, but after the fact in reflection I feel pretty stupid even if I haven't had anybody go physically psychotic on me.

I don't worry about getting injured while flying in an air plane, riding a buss, driving a car, or letting a co-worker who thinks she is the female version of Andretti drive me around. To me cycling isn't any more dangerous then any of these activities. Some of them its actually less dangerous. I try not to let fear paralyze me. I read what I can to learn how to ride the safest I can. I'll position myself in such a way that I'm the safest I can be based on experts and their research.

I'm not sure what would make me more comfortable on a bike. Maybe a bluetooth speaker that gives me several mounting options and has a quick release retention system so I can take it with me. Currently I'm using this I've modified it to work with a velco strap on its rubber mounting. I mount it on the stem just before the drop bars. I'd prefer other mounting options, and better battery life. Currently it only works for about 4-5 hours.

These are awesome. Extra batteries can be purchased on amazon as well as larger ones. They are equipped with a quick detach so it won't get stolen while off the bike. CycleGaz uses one.

I recently was asking myself this same question, and consensus seemed to be the Air Zound is the loudest horn.

Delta Airzound Bike Horn , colors may vary https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_l5xYxbDSGJVRP

But I don't like the idea of needing an air reservoir for my horn. I have been using this for a while:

Hornit dB140 Cycle Horn with Remote Trigger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006TDEV20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_l7xYxb01YQYW2

It's very loud but ruined by the sound it makes: it's a chirping noise and people look up in the trees on shared paths instead of looking back or moving over. I ordered and just yesterday received this:

ORP SmartHorn and Bike Light - BLUE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3NK1O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_K8xYxbH94B542

A light/horn combo, with two different sounds. It's loud, and if you get it off the Orp website they include the remote trigger for free. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet but my initial impression is very good.

> 80db at 50cm. That's loud!!!

I don't think that the person writing that sentence has any idea how loudness is measured... because that's not loud. Usually dB is measured at 1m for a start, so that horn is only 74dB at 1m. A bit louder than a vacuum cleaner, but not necessarily as loud as normal traffic, if you believe this scale.

For comparison, this one is 115dB-

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC


That's loud!!! But the sounds are not as cheeky, I'll admit. :)

I agree, Lawrence has a bike line for a lot of it and is comparatively stress-free.

If you don't own a helmet mirror, I highly recommend getting one for the city. It gives you a little picture-in-picture of what's behind you, so you don't need to turn away from your path to check over your shoulder. I got a lot more comfortable biking in the city when I bought one.
https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1504314945&sr=1-2&keywords=helmet+mirror

I just posted pretty much the same thing about a week ago.

I ended up ordering this Two Fish Lockblocks Flashlight Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJXB5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0cY0xb9DM7MV3 to use with my Astrolux S1 and it works fantastically. But it took a while to get here so before that I was using a couple of rubber bands and a paper towel to protect the paint, haha.

Edit: the BLF A6, which is identical to the S1 is on sale right now on banggood.

awesome, thanks man.

I went ahead and got this http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005YPK9VQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

So now i have a reg ulock, mini ulock, and the cable. As well as the pinhead nuts in the saddle/front wheel/steering.

Hopefully my bike will now at least be super inconvenient to steal.

Bright Eyes This light is incredibly bright. My brother recently purchased one and I am able to follow him on a pitch black path when he uses his. I'm waiting for my own to come in the mail. It has a large battery pack that needs to be mounted to your bike but if you look past that it is a great unit.

What's your price range? That affects the options quite a bit.

How dark is your area - are you looking for something to ensure cars can see you (i.e. do you have streetlights on your whole route) or are you going to need the light to actually see? That affects how much power you need.

For taillights, I love the PDW Danger Zone. Not that expensive, quite bright, and its variable flash setting is very attention getting. I have one on each of my bikes and never leave home without it.

For headlights, there are a lot of options out there. I commute down some dark bike trails at night, so I have a Niterider Minewt 600, which was the predecessor to their current Lumina 650. It's stunning - waterproof, durable, extremely bright (on high, I can go 20-25mph in pitch black with great confidence, and most of the time I just leave it on low or medium for fear of blinding people), very good battery life (I recharge it a couple times a month), and USB rechargable so I just bring it in at work occasionally and charge it there. It's not the cheapest, but if you're planning on bike commuting long term it's a solid investment (I've had mine for over a year and it shows no signs of dying any time soon).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DNG8DSY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those are the ones I got! Super easy to install, all they do is snap onto your spokes & you're all set!!

I have the bike peddler Take-A-Look mirror and like it. Easy to mount and easy enough to see out of.

https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/ref=sr_1_1?crid=YBU3RDTRBIS7&keywords=take+a+look+bike+mirror&qid=1569019872&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=take+a+loo%2Csporting%2C194&sr=1-1

I'm primarily a cyclist actually and I first saw the material on a runner. I'm convinced it's saved me on the road when I'm riding in low-light conditions. Still, I also have been taking initiative to upgrade my bike lights and now ride with:

• Front light #1 - WindFire 3800Lm
  
• Front light #2 - Cygolite 850Lm
  
• Tail light - Cygolite Hotshot
  
  My tail light is a little weak and I need to double-up or get a brighter one, I think.
  
  Stay safe!

I use one of these along with I really good CREE LED flash light and a Planet Bike Superflash tail light. I have the Planet Bike blaze, blaze 1watt, and blaze 2 watt headlights and find that they are just not bright enough for where I ride. (I ride on completely unlit roads). Although I do LOVE the mount on the Blaze headlights.

Here are the must-haves for anyone:

1. A helmet that fits
   
   
2. A portable pump like this Lezyne pump in case you get a flat
   
   
3. Backup tire tubes / patch kit / tire levers for the same reason as above
   
   
4. A good bike lock - I like this Kryptonie Series 2 kit
   
   Optional but nice to have:
   
   
5. Water bottle cage & water bottle
   
   
6. Bike shorts or bib
   
   Depending on riding conditions:
   
   
7. Bike lights/reflectors
   
   
8. Cold weather riding gear (pants/etc)
   
   
9. For commuters, panniers/etc
   
   
10. Or a small backpack

I got this from my lbs for about 50 and I would recommend something similar. A u lock to go through the frame, front wheel and bike rack and a cable to go through the rear wheel. Maybe something like this from amazon. The keys are nice too cause I can just keep one on my keyring.

I use this one and it has been great:

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Blow-Sport-Floor-Pump/dp/B002B7LTBY/ref=sr_1_2/182-7405441-5301903?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1419998243&sr=1-2

My last pump was a POS and didn't have a built in gauge. I'm much happier with this one.

A good U-lock is kind of the gold standard for security. Chain locks and cable locks have to be super hefty for me to trust them. Also, learn to lock it properly. Wheels can also be stolen. Getting skewers that are not quick-release isn't foolproof but it does add some security.

You likely won't need the socket wrench combo, unless your wheels are bolted on with hex nuts. Otherwise, a patch kit and a bike multitool will cover 95% of your on-the-road needs, plus a pump. It's not the smallest option but I'm a big fan of the topeak road morph. I also carry tire levers and a normal (non-combo set) 5mm allen wrench, since it's the size I use most.

One of the tricks to winter riding is to ride through the shoulder season so you can gradually work your way down into lower temperatures and figure out your layering. Much easier than going from summer riding to commuting at 5 below zero.