Reddit mentions: The best cycling books

I think some of your questions are subjective and open to personal opinion. So take my response as such.

1. I think your bike is worth it to you and that's what matters most. (Honestly I think it was a good deal and a good bike.) What's more important, do you feel comfortable on it? Do you want to ride it? Than it's worth every penny. If you have a bike you don't want to ride, well, then the reverse is true.
   
2. YouTube is your friend for maintenance. There are some things you can check without tools, such as chain stretch, checking the cassette for wear, seeing if your cables stick or are frayed. Give the bike a good wash, clean the chain, cassette, frame. Make sure your brakes don't stick or don't grab properly, shift through all the gears, front and rear. If they stick you can put some oil into the cable housings or consider changing out cables. Bike maintenance isn't hard, it's just getting past some of the black magic of making things just right. That can be the difference that a bike shop can bring. But honestly, if you know how to do it yourself, I think you gain confidence in your skills and can easily tweak something without relying on a shop.
   
3. Anything is possible. It's a hard question to answer without knowing your current fitness level, but I'd say in a few months you can be ready for a century. Will you be breaking land speed records, probably not, but you will be able to do it. Just keep riding a bit longer or a bit harder each week. You don't need to do a century ride before actually doing one officially. You just have to find a pace you are comfortable with that you know you can ride for a long time. That's the pace you will need to finish a century. It's that "I could do this all day pace" that you are looking for in a long ride.
   
4. I can't answer this one as I've picked up most of what I do with a few books and fellow riders. One book I enjoy is Time Crunched Cyclist by Chris Carmichael. http://www.amazon.com/The-Time-Crunched-Cyclist-2nd-Ed/dp/193403083X
   It's great for those of us who may not have the time to train like a pro.
   
5. This is a subjective question again. A good cruising speed is what you are comfortable with. 32kph would be very respectable for a century and a good pace for any day to day ride. You'll need to get a feel for what you can handle however. Might have to build up to that, might find you can easily blow that speed out of the water.
   
   Good luck and have fun!

So, I have done Vancouver to Tijuana and used almost exclusively this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Vicky-Spring/dp/0898869544/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1323197410&sr=1-1

I ended up hating it, some things are wrong,it's hard to use a book while riding, etc. but it got the job done.

Another alternative that is really useful are the adventure cycling maps:
http://www.adventurecycling.org/routes/pacificcoast.cfm

Or like fayette said, ditch the preplanned route, it honestly is way more fun and feels more like you are on your own adventure. A lot of areas will have free bike maps of the region, like the Discovery Trail on the Olympic Peninsula. And you can just use road maps bought at a gas station. The downside to this is that many times you will take a big highway when there was a barely used country road that you could have taken.

Luckily for you there are hiker/biker sites in most campgrounds all the way up the coast. They normally cost around $5 a person and will have warm showers. Or, what it took me forever to learn was to bush camp. Go to a park and find somewhere hidden, get out your sleeping bag and sleep. Not having a car really helps hide in the park and it ends up saving a lot of money.

Also, I would consider taking Highway 1 up as far as you can. The grades are a little steeper and the shoulders a little smaller, but it is much better riding than the 101. Once you hit California(from Oregon), highway 101 turns into a highway, 4 fast lanes, wide shoulders and shallow grades. This comes at a cost, it is hotter, dustier and less scenic. While this doesn't sound so bad, it gets old quick.

For food I'm not sure what your plan is. I highly recommend getting a backpacking stove and lightweight pot. It will save you a lot of money and make you much more flexible. Usually you can go to most places and they will fill up your water or you can fill it up at their soda machines.

*This is from a layman's perspective on exercise science and physiology as it relates to amateur cycling training

I'd rank ways to measure the training load of intervals like this from least to most helpful:

4. Distance at RPE or Speed
3. Time at RPE or Speed
2. Time at HR

1. Time at a specific Power Rating
   
   My understanding is that Time and Intensity are what matter for training for specific physiological adaptations, so the more accurately you measure those two factors, the better quality your training will be. Distance tells you nothing about time it takes to complete a specific interval. It's related to time in that at a given speed on unvarying terrain different distances will take different times to complete, but we can't control for those variables on the road. On a track or a very flat course with no wind....maybe.
   
   Speed tells you very little about intensity because of the same factors as well as your level of rest and recovery.
   
   Rate of Perceived Exertion (how hard am I working on a scale of 1-5 or 10 or whatever) can be a really good training cue for yourself, but until you have something more objective to measure it against (heart rate or power) it doesn't necessarily tell you much.
   
   Heart rate is influenced by a number of factors outside of the intensity of a specific workout, including rest, hydration, health, recovery, etc. It does, however, control for a lot of environmental variances (gradient, wind, etc.)
   
   Power is probably the most accurate way to measure intensity, and when coupled with heart rate and RPE you can draw some pretty profound conclusions about physiological responses from your body.
   
   I train with heart rate since I'm too much of a peasant to own a power meter. Typically I try to do my intervals at different heart rate levels based on what I'm attempting to train (muscular endurance, power, etc.) and try to return to a baseline heart rate within a designated resting interval. If I can't recover in time, typically it means I'm not rested enough for the workout or I haven't done enough base training and I change my plans for the day or the week.
   
   I'd recommend the Cyclist's Training Bible by Joe Friel
   https://www.amazon.com/Cyclists-Training-Bible-Joe-Friel/dp/1934030201
   
   It certainly helped me.

I did pretty much this same trip last summer (a few months ago) except it was from Seattle to Santa Cruz. It was so awesome.

Here are the pictures: http://itsbiggerontheinside.imgur.com/all/

If you have every backpacked before, you just need the essential gear that you would bring backpacking. I camped everynight (about 5$ a night in california/oregon and then it gets ridiculously expensive ~$15 a night in Washington) so I brought my camping stove, hammock to sleep in along with a rain tarp, warm clothes... The essentials.

You say you're training on that bike, but not riding on it? And you said it's a fixed gear... It's not a fixed gear, it has gears. Do you know how many? I did my ride on a 1984 Miyata 1000, and it held up great. If your bike has good enough gears, and eyelets for paniers, you should be fine on it.


I don't know your route, but if you are going to go along the coast (which I recommend), there's a great book called bicycling the pacific coast. It tells you where campsites are, things to see, and it suggests how long you should travel for each day.

You said that you are planning on doing it in 2-3 weeks. I did it in 24 days, and that was about 50 miles a day with a few rest days. If you are walking at all (im a little confused about what you're really doing) it will take you longer.

I think that you have some superfluous things that you are bringing as well. A backpack, hiking shoes (if you aren't riding clip less, you should be fine without hiking shoes). You didn't mention that you are bringing rain pants in you packing list (unless i skimmed over it), and you may want to bring those in the spring months for the Northern Coast. It can be cold, and wet.

I hope you have a great time! I looks really rad. If you don't have your bike yet, check craigslist! You'll find some awesome deals for awesome bikes on there.

Also, feel free to ask anything.

You are going to need to increase your power (FTP) and introduce long intervals into your training. I"m talking about specific rides where your only goal is something like 3x20 minute intervals at 85-90% of your max power or heart rate. These are rides done by yourself, alone, and in some degree of pain towards the end of the session.

There's plenty of information on the internet on increasing your FTP, but essentially you want a decent (20 minute) warm up followed by 3 x 20 minute intervals at 85-90% of your max power or HR with 5 minutes of rest (riding super slow). You can start at 10 minute intervals first if you like. This has always worked very well for me in the past and I'm old school before Power Meters so it does work using HR, but most modern training is now done with power meters. It will still work with a heart rate monitor, but you need to know a few things about your heart rate zones, max hr, etc.

A good book that will probably get mentioned here is "The Cyclist's Training Bible" and it is highly recommended. Good luck, getting faster is hard work, but the rewards are worth it.

Cycling training, as you can imagine, is complex and there are many opinions on how to best train for races. I'm no expert on coaching/training but I have been a serious cyclist and racer for 25 years.

Today, the most common approach to training is to use 'periodized' training. The idea of periodized training is to structure your year so that you build a foundation of fitness over the winter (after an autumn break) and then tailor your workouts carefully in the spring and summer such that you peak in time for important races.

It is called 'periodized' training because your year is broken up into periods (and those periods are, in turn, broken up into smaller periods). The first of these high-level periods is a rest period around this time of year. Then, over the winter, you'll be in a 'base period' during which you develop a foundation for peak fitness next summer. Your spring and summer will have multiple 'build' and 'peak' periods designed to build your fitness ahead of important races (build) and then to taper off just a bit to reduce fatigue just prior to important races (peak).

Today's training methods (as opposed to training from 2 decades ago when I first started racing) is very scientific and prescriptive thanks to technologies that provide us with metrics on our performance. Specifically, heart rate monitors and, more importantly, power meters. Data from these can be used to maximize your workouts' impact and can be fed into physiological models of how bodies respond to and recover from workouts in order to predict and manage what's called your 'form' during the racing season. Because these model quantify your body's response to workouts, 'form' can be quantified and is defined as: form = fitness - fatigue.

Your goal is to maximize form on race days (so-called 'peaking'). But because your fitness is always dropping when you are not doing workouts and your fatigue is increasing when you do work out, managing your form is a dynamic and not so simple. Furthermore, each person is different and, as we age, our response to training changes. And, to add more complication, each type of race also demands different skills and abilities and so it all becomes complicated which is why coaches exist. Frankly, I find this fascinating though.

For amateurs like us who don't have coaches (or limited coaching), there are tons of online tools and books which can help. Book-wise, I recommend that you get a copy of a The Cyclist's Training Bible by Joe Friel. Check out www.trainingpeaks.com for nice training/planning tools including - if you get the paid version - preplanned workouts. And, for sure, get a power meter (I can't recommend one as I have Vector pedals which, although I like very much, are (too?) expensive and, for some reason, not widely liked) along with a hear rate monitor. For winter training, get a trainer whose resistance you can adjust from your handlebars. You can also get rollers too but don't unless you also get a trainer because a trainer is more versatile.

Frankly, equipment doesn't make a huge difference as long as your bike is reasonably light (and then, this is only important if your races have lots of climbing) and your wheels and components are at least reasonably decent. A Scott Foil 15 and Specialized Allez are both fine bikes.

One last comment. When doing your workouts be sure to follow the planned intensity. Especially in your base periods, many workouts will be at a low level of intensity which will be boring. Don't be tempted to go hard during these long, boring, low-intensity workouts as they really do pay huge dividends in preparing your body for the heavy-duty 'build' workouts that will come a few months later. The metaphor to a building's foundation is not just a trite description - it really is true.

Hello Aron156,

I noticed that you're still in high school, which means you've got the benefit of youth on your side. So it really comes down to what you want to get out of cycling.

The best thing you can do for yourself is to follow the three rules of the French.

1. Ride the bike
   
2. Ride the bike
   
3. Ride the bike
   
   If in doubt, check the rules again.
   
   The problem you're going to run into is that most cycling trainging programs are focused on road cycling, because that's where people make money.
   
   If you're serious about racing, then fitness should be your #1 priority. This site has some good information on nutrition and training, so you can get started for free.
   
   robbyking's suggestion is pretty good, but if you think you might want to make a career of cycling then, The Time Crunched Training Program will only get you started. TTCTP focuses on high intensity interval training, and that's good, but there's more to it than that. A more complete book on training and nutrition is The Cyclists Training Bible. This covers several of the techniques the pro road riders that I know use for their own training.
   
   Personally, I do HR zone training, but I'm a bit older, and I work in a job where I have to sit all day (read: I need fitness more than performance, and I get the most benefit from HR Zone training). A decent HR monitor can be had for relatively cheap. Get a heart rate monitor that can track your Max HR and Average for a ride. They can be had for about $50USD. Then you can start to figure out where you're at fitness wise.
   
   Hope this helps. :)
   
   *edit: formatting and clarity

Just got back from a Portland-SF ride, 14 days, 797 miles. I rode a Kona Dew commuter, my dad rode my Specialized Tricross, and we had zero bike issues whatsoever - not even a flat tire. The roads are in good shape, so you can do that ride on pretty much any bike. Just make sure its comfortable.

For breweries - we weren't as concerned with them as you seem to be, and didn't spend time at any of them, but would have if we had planned them out a bit more in advance. The North Coast Brewery in Fort Bragg is easily visited from Highway 1, they did tours and had a taproom and pub. If you can book in advance, the Anchor Brewery in SF offers tours for free on weekdays.

You'll meet lots of great people in the summer time. Most of the state parks along the coast offer hiker-biker campsites, $5 a head, which is great for catching up with other bikers. If you want an extremely detailed guide to these places and a route, you want Bicycling the Pacific Coast as your guide. We met a few others with this book and those who didn't have it were envious.

The Oregon coast was beautiful. Fog usually hung around until at least 11am. One night we went to bed under clear skies and woke up in a 2" deep puddle - the rain can hit at any time. The north California coast was all fog. When we split from 101 to follow hwy 1 along the coast, we didn't see the sun for three days. No rain though. Good luck!

get this book for everything you could ever want to know about bike control

http://www.amazon.com/Mastering-Mountain-Skills-Brian-Lopes/dp/0736056246

i wish i had started learning how to wheelie, manual, bunny hop and jump earlier (I still am learning to manual and bunny hop). sounds scary, but i'm talking, like, 1 inch off the ground jumps is all you need to learn in the beginning to really learn better control over your bike, which translates to better control at other points on a trail and being more comfortable moving around in the cockpit. it's by no means the only factor in bike control, but it helps a lot

i've been riding for a little over a year, and i just wanted to hit the singletrack as often as I could, so i skipped spending time learning those things early on- i just sat in my saddle on the ride up and then got out of it on the way down, but it took me a long time to get used to moving around and feeling comfortable in the cockpit, which i would have learned earlier if i had started learning the stuff i mentioned earlier on. the more comfortable you are moving around on your bike, the more comfortable you will be pushing your bike's limits as you progress

> as opposed to 700 watts for a few seconds

Sprint training is difficult to plan and hard to improve, so it's more valuable to get to the finish fresh than to train your sprint. Sprint power is very dependent on genetics. /u/carpediemracing has written about this in a comment recently. Ultimately if you want to be a better sprinter then timing and positioning will benefit you more than raw Watts.

> I hear the weight room is the best place for developing that.

To an extent yes, but remember that the force production during a sprint and the force production during your 10rep max are leagues apart. If you're sprinting at full tilt then at best you'll produce the equivalent force of an equivalent 1 rep/sec (rounded and assuming 120rpm). For this reason it's generally recommended to do plyometrics off the bike and focus on technique when on the bike. Weight training can help with your initial jump if it's low speed, on a gradient or from a standing start, but the nature of power production means you'll never attain huge force production like you would off the bike. You'll never actually attain your best possible force production unless pedal velocity (cadence) is 0. Coggan has written about this with regards to quandrant analysis of the pedal stroke.

If you haven't picked up a copy of Training and Racing with a Power Meter I'd recommend it, even if you do not own a power meter. In fact I'd say he should change the title at this point since it's a better general training utility than it is a power meter handbook (although power is important to understanding your ability).

The easiest would be to just go to a local bike shop, ask them what needs to be done, and have them do it.

It sounds like you are interested in getting your hands dirty and doing the work yourself. In that case, the usual advice would be to get to your nearest bike coop, take one of their bike maintenance classes or rent space in their shop and have someone help you out figuring out what you need to do and how to do it. But it looks like your closest bike coop might be in Sacramento, which is a bit of a hike. There is apparently a guy in Chico who is in the process of starting a bike coop, so you might want to try contacting him.

Beyond that, you can try striking out on your own. A few good resources for learning about bike maintenance are Sheldon Brown's website (ignore the crappy 90's style design, he has tons of good information on his site) and the Park Tool website (they have lots of good repair info, and they will sell you all of the tools you might need). If paper is more your thing, then good beginning books would include Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance, or the Park Tool book. And I know you've already been redirected to /r/bicycling from AskReddit, but for bike repair questions, /r/bikewrench might be more helpful (check out the sidebar here on /r/bicycling for links to FAQs and other relevant subreddits).

As far as not riding like a douchebag, if you ask 10 cyclists you'll probably get 11 different answers (and if you ask non-cyclists, you will probably get a lot of dangerous advice). There will be endless debates as to whether it's OK to run red lights, whether you should pass on the right or split lanes, whether bike lanes are a good thing or not, whether you should wear a helmet, etc. Some of the more universal tips: ride with lights at night. Don't ride on the sidewalk. Don't be a bike salmon (riding the wrong way in traffic). Be predictable. I find that BicycleSafe.com has some practical tips on safety without getting too much into the endlessly debatable points.

And finally, welcome to cycling! I hope you enjoy it; it can be a lot of fun, get you some exercise without even really trying, and is so much cheaper and less hassle to deal with than driving a car.

I can only tackle a few of those questions - I'm entering my second season on a team, but I joined the team a month after buying my road bike and only did one race last season so may not be the best source on all of this....

1. First, where do you live? I live in northern California, and the Northern California Nevada Cycling Association (NCNCA) posts a pretty good calendar of races here. There will be time trials, road races, criteriums, and circuits posted once the calendar finalizes and different events announce their schedules. Time trials are classically solo events - you start off and ride by yourself, and ride against the clock. There are team time trials, but you're not going to see that as a starting racer (though i may be wrong about that). Road races are your longer races (the one I did last year was 49 miles). Criteriums and circuit races are shorter, much faster races (quick and tight turns, requiring good handling skills). I'll let someone else give details on those, though, since I havent raced in either type myself...
   
   
2. You'll start seeing some races in February, but I think the season in chief starts around April and will end in August or September. This is purely based on the calendar of races I'm looking at this year, though, so grain of salt. There's other bike racing events in the off months (namely, cyclocross) if you can't keep yourself off two wheels...
   
   
3. I cant speak to other races, but the road race I competed in (Cat 5) was won by a racer going an average of 18 mph over those 49 miles.
   
   
4. I think in the Cat 5 races you can probably be competitive riding solo... You'll have riders working together despite team affiliations, and it's not like youre going to see Cat 5 teams forming leadouts in the final stretches to launch their sprinters. Unless theyre taking it reaaaaaally seriously.
   
   Unsolicited, but think its helpful: read up on how to train up... Last season I rode when I felt like it, usually one long ride on the weekend and then a few commutes to work (28 miles roundtrip), and was in decent shape so thought I'd do okay. Racing was faaaaar harder than I expected. I picked up this book and read it cover to cover for this season, and am working on building up a base to start out this season stronger (and it's already made a big difference). You can also find a lot of the information in various locations online, but it'll help lay out the transition/base/build/peak cycles that are helpful in training for a race, and what kind of workouts to do to reach your goals.
   
   Beyond that, just enter a race or two and see how it goes and if you enjoy it - theres no need to go insane without knowing whether you're going to like it.
   
   But that being said, enjoy your first season!

A tool kit (or a good bike multi-tool) is fairly inexpensive, and is incredibly useful for maintaining, repairing, and upgrading bikes. It's not going to directly affect your ride to and from work, buthelp you keep your bike in top condition so that your ride is easy and safe.

Something like this kit, or this one would be a good place to start, and supplement with individual tools as you need them.

A fairly comprehensive multi-tool like this one would also work for infrequent repairs, though they can be somewhat cumbersome to use at times.

Lastly, a good repair book might not be a bad idea. I like Lenard Zinn's Zinn and the Art of (Road/Mountain) Bike Maintenance. However, there are also man great websites and youtube tutorials (park tools has some excellent guides on their site) that will fulfil the same role.

Power2Max. I was holding out for the Garmin Vector but gave up waiting. They ended up shipping 6 months after I got my Power2Max. Still, I'm very happy with it. The other bonus for me with the Power2Max is that I was already running a Rotor crank and just needed to replace the spider which kept the power meter to about $1,000 taxes and shipping in. However, replacing the spider on the crank was a feat in and of itself. Brutal. Turns out its something Rotor does not support. - i.e., if you screw up your crank while taking the factory spider off, they won't support you. In the end, it turned out OK. (key: Use a hair dryer to heat the spider up)

It is completely justified. Just for the ability to use it indoors using TrainerRoad makes it worth it by itself (for me). Also, after upgrading my Strava account to premium, all of the additional training features that require a power meter are great.

I've just started reading/following the Training & racing with a power meter as well which I hope brings positive results...

*edit: spelling

So - some of these are out of print but you should be able to find all of them on-line:


75 Classic Rides Washington Mike McQuaide


Biking Puget Sound: 50 Rides from Olympia to the San Juans Bill Thorness


Bicycling the Backroads of Northwest Washington Bill Woods, Erin Woods


Bicycling the Backroads Around Puget Sound Erin & Bill Woods


Bicycling the backroads of southwest Washington (OOP) Erin Woods


Bicycling The Pacific Coast Vicky Spring, Tom Kirkendall


Bakeries by bicycle: A guide to Puget Sound's Best Bakeries (OOP) Fred Wert


Biking the Great Northwest: 20 Tours in Washington, Oregon, Idaho and Montana (OOP) Jean Henderson


Cycling Sojourner: A Guide to the Best Multi-Day Tours in Washington Ellee Thalheimer

Best Bike Rides Seattle: Great Recreational Rides in the Metro Area Gene Bisbee

Welcome!

I think discussions on power meters fit right into the purposes of /r/Velo. Why don't you tell us a little about your riding and training background? How long have you been training, and what sort of goals do you have? Have you read Friel's Training Bible or Allen and Coggan's Training and Racing with a Power Meter?

As far as power meters go, there are a few different types on the market right now (and others will chip in here if i'm forgetting anything, because reasons). Here I'm sorting them from closest to power generation down the driveline:

• Pedal-based meters measure at the foot, and can measure left and right separately (not a useful measurement...yet.). Examples here include Garmin's Vector pedal system and Look/Polar's Keos. PowerTap will be releasing their P1 pedals this summer as well.
  
• Crankarm power meters are newcomers at a lower pricepoint. Stages Power is a left-only power meter that pulled prices down with their introduction of power for $749. Additionally, 4iiiis has released a power meter that is just hitting the market — this is priced insanely competitively, like $350 or something, and it'll be interesting to see if it's a useful player.
  
• Next up is crank-based power, and there are a lot of players here. SRM has been considered the gold standard of power, with a price to match, but that is changing. Quarq (from SRAM) is also well known, Power2Max seems to be highly regarded and is very competitively priced, Rotor has a system, and Pioneer Electronics has a new model that's a little pricier but also quite advanced. PowerTap is also releasing a chainring power system this summer.
  
• Finishing up is hub-based power with the venerable PowerTap hub, which has been around for about forever and is a known quantity and still a solid value proposition.
  
  Head on over to DC Rainmaker and check out his reviews, because his is the gold standard on incredibly detailed information on all things electronics. His reviews are excellent, and he's getting a 4iiii unit to review so we'll know how it fairs. That'd be the best option if you're really price sensitive because their pricing promises to massively undercut all the other players on the market.
  
  So this should be a start.

I bought an old 12 speed racing Peugeot 3 months ago and I am delighted with it.

Since I live on a steep hill and had not done any kind of exercise in years, I asked a LBS for a solution and they put a mountain freewheel on it. I changed the tires (got bigger tires, good quality) and brake pads, cables and housing myself (some googling and checking my new knowledge at the LBS did the trick).

In other words, I went for the second hand, vintage (but a good make) bike because I was not sure I would stick to biking. With the tires I have, my road bike can handle gravel but certainly not trails with rocks and the likes.

Maybe the friend you borrowed the bike from could help you with a second-hand purchase.

If money is not an issue, put the money into a decent cyclocross bike but go to a reliable shop and discuss your options with them.

Oh... and I bought this book, it has got everything on bike maintenance (it is no rocket science... what is hard is to figure out components compatibility when you want to upgrade an old bike. If you are just maintaining your bike, it is pretty basic).

Unless you live in a very hilly area, basic biking is not that hard: the bike carries your weight. Essentially, you have to keep in mind that you should strive to pedal at a regular cadence and use your gears astutely. Increasing the length of your rides is probably what you are aiming for, if you enjoy the touristy aspect of riding. If you are more into fitness/cardio, well... I don't know (pedal faster, probably).

The only problem I encountered is finding a good saddle (it seems my last purchase might do) and finding raingear that does not make you feel like you are sitting in a hot bath.

I've done this route before. The Northern section is really great, but it can get a little hairy once you get into California. Take all the detours you can, it can be pretty heavily trafficked. The lost coast section near Klamath is really cool if your bikes can handle it. Stop off at casinos for free coffee. Bring a kite, they're a lot of fun. Get lost in the redwoods if you can, try to plan a couple days. There's a great swimming hole (or at least there used to be) along the avenue of the giants near Miranda with a big tree sticking out of the water that you can dive off of. You've got to be a little more serious about planning your days as you get south, it gets more built up.

There's a great book that lists routes, good hiker-biker spots, local history, and activities along the way.

Adventure cycling makes some maps with milages and elevations that list campsites, etc. They're expensive new, but you can get used copies.

I would agree with what people have been saying here. I just rode the Astoria to SF portion, and even in August the weather is pretty mixed.

As someone else posted, this is definitely the bible: https://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Complete-Canada/dp/0898869544

It maps out every day for you, with most rides being between 45-65 miles, which always felt manageable. The campsites are social places and cheap, which will be a nice start to your ride, but I imagine they will be a lot quieter at that time of year.

You could save this ride for the end of this world tour, if it has an end. It might be a nice way to see it out in spring/summer. Most people tend to go south to north, I met quite a few going the other way too. The winds aren't as bad as they are made out to be, though I believe the shoulders are often a little better heading South.

Maybe consider checking out Japan/S.Korea after Australia. That will be decent to ride from March going forward, wild camping is easy, scenery is beautiful, both countries are very safe (aside from the occasional low flying missile from North Korea...).

You're bound to get some more detailed responses soon, but:

I much prefer to train "slow" to go fast. My riding now is what I pulled out of Base Building for Cyclists

What it should do for you, and certainly does for me, is speed up my recovery rate, and allow me to tap into more power when I really need it. Riding in the pack should be cake for you, you're even younger than I am. (24) If you are having trouble in that aspect, just train easy and get lots of miles. This isn't weight lifting, you don't need to go really hard to get stronger. The miles are the key, and you will find riding "easy" will actually not be much slower than if you push yourself. I found my average pace actually came up to where I was very quickly.

Not to mention it allowed me to recover incredibly easily.

You should definitely NOT train near max heart rate all the time. You definitely should train at lower heart rates for extended rides.

I'm not an expert by any means, but this is what has worked for me.

Next up is the question why and where/when during the race did you get dropped?

> if you get a road bike, you will find it easier to transition to longer rides if you want to.

I see this advice here all the time, and I'm not sure I understand it. Yes, it's true that some people who get into cycling decide they want to do long rides. But I don't think everybody does, and it always seemed to me that buying the bike you need now, rather than buying a bike that's not optimal now but you might hypothetically need later (or not) is a poor way to go. I commute (about 30 miles a week or so) and ride my bike to do errands and get some exercise. I'm feeling good three months into a car-free lifestyle, and losing weight, but I have neither the endurance nor the interest to tackle really long rides. If that changes in the future, I can always buy a different (or second) bike.

OP, given your description of your riding goals, I'd be inclined to go with a hybrid bike. I have the women's Specialized Vita and it's perfect for the kind of commuting you're describing. Comfortable, not-too-aggressive riding posture, plenty of gears for hills and such, and putting a rack, panniers, fenders, etc. on it was no big deal. Plus, it wasn't that expensive, so I can save money for another bike if I decide I want one later. There's a men's version of this basic bike, but I forget what Specialized calls it.

I'd also highly recommend reading Just Ride, by Grant Peterson (who's apparently been in the bike business forever.) He argues that a lot of the biking technology, best practices, and conventional wisdom out there trickle down from the world of racing, and may not necessarily be good advice if your riding habits have a different goal than racing. I don't agree with everything he says (he's a bit down on cycling as exercise) but reading this book really helped me shift what I was focusing on in my gear choices and riding habits. I may not be fast, and I'm definitely not riding 100 miles in a weekend, but I'm enjoying my bike a lot more.

Sounds like you're a relatively new rider, welcome to the wonderful world of cycling!

The first bit of advice I can give you is to just ride. Get some clips, ride a lot, ask a lot of questions, and have fun.


Upgrades:

• pedals & clips
  
• new crank set
  
• individual parts for style or weight
  
• play around with different gear ratios
  
• saddle
  
• lighter wheels
  
• always replace chainring, cog and chain at the same time
  
  There's probably more but that should do but also read this book by Grant Peterson, it's a real good perspective to help get over the hump that you need better and just enjoy yourself.
  
  Just Ride: A Radically Practical Guide to Riding Your Bike https://www.amazon.com/dp/0761155589/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7ADExbKENM577

Hi from the US!

Have you dropped by a local bike shop? There might be some one more experienced with the route for this race and be able to give you a more specialized answer so you can be better prepared.

Make sure to check out /r/mtb and maybe /r/velo.

http://www.livestrong.com/article/275683-racing-bikes-vs-mountain-bikes/

My friends and I like to do uphill sprints, and intervals on a couple times a week, at least, in addition to a long road or gravel rides.

Honestly, I wouldn't hit the gym up much this close to a race- I'd focus on riding, with a long ride once a week plus a couple smaller ones later in the well, separated by intervals. And then a good full week of recovery before the race.

But, in general, medium intensity-medium volume (6 sets of 12) squats, deadlifts, leg press, never the same day or day before a long ride or race, worked best for us during the off-season.

I'd pack several snack bars, a first aid kit, a rear derailleur hanger, multitool with chain breaker, extra chain, tire levers, tubes and patches, paper currency, toilet paper or wet wipes, plenty of water. Maybe an extra tire.

Rest as needed. I wouldn't worry about time, so much as finishing and navigating the route.

There will be more races! Wait until you discover enduro... Until then, have fun, check out "The Cyclist Training Bible" and http://www.ridethedividemovie.com

The skill I find most useful but non-intuitive is to be able to turn your head over your left shoulder and assess whether it is safe to merge left, for example to get around an obstacle or to prepare for a left turn. I would practice this a lot.

Many posters here mention taking the lane, and other maneuvers. This is part of a school of thought that is both discredited and very useful known as Vehicular Cycling. The bible of Vehicular Cycling is a book called Effective Cycling by John Forester.

Vehicular cycling more or less holds that since most bicycle crashes happen as a part of crossing or turning at intersections, bike lanes make cycling less safe because they introduce more places of potential conflict between bikes and other vehicles. Thus cycling is safest when bicycles act as any other vehicle, for example taking the lane and riding with other traffic.

It is discredited because we now know that cycling becomes safer the more cyclists there are, so that motorists become used to encountering cyclists. The best way to get more cyclists is to have cycling infrastructure like bike lanes. This outweighs the benefit of reducing the points of conflict. (It's also discredited because vehicular cycling presumes that the principles of traffic engineering are good to begin with, but they're profoundly not.)

But if you talk to most experienced urban cyclists, including those who strongly advocate for bike lanes, you'll find that on a personal level most follow the vehicular cycling model. So it's good to familiarize one's self with it.

The best way to think of it is this, you can judge your fitness based on a few things: Speed, Heart rate, or watts.
Speed is the simpliest(I'm getting faster! I'm not getting faster.) but it can be effected by a lot; wind, terrain, drafting, aerodynamics, ect.
Heart rate is the next when used with speed(I'm getting faster and my heart rate isn't exploding!) but like speed it can be effected by alot too. Are you sick today, not rested, to much caffeine, along with all the things effecting speed. There is also a lag between effort and heart rate(If you do a 30sec or less effort your heartrate will only see a change near the end or after.
A power meter or watts is the most effective. In short if you are producing more watts, you will be going faster, longer or both. And the things that effect speed does not effect watts. And unlike Heartrate there is little to no lag since it is measuring the effort you are doing.

I'd suggest reading Joel Friel has some great books about using power meters: Training and Racing with a power meter or Powermeter Handbook

The important thing is to spend a lot of time training at a moderate heart rate... basically an intensity you can maintain for over an hour that is difficult but not actually painful. Lots and lots of hours riding at roughly that level (and harder) will improve your aerobic fitness which is the most important factor.

If you want to be more serious about it buy a copy of The Cyclist's Training Bible and put together a long-term training plan based on that.

Also for a climb like Ventoux make sure you've got some easy gears on your bike. A compact crank (or triple) will make it a lot easier.

I have this book and it has everything I wanted to know thus far. Plus it is pretty easy to read and understand. Good number of pictures as well if that helps you.
I have found that this channel is a great source also.

There are a few basic tool kits out there that should do the trick for you. Of course, I had to get a few additional tools along the way. I am just starting to learn how to do my own work as well, good luck!

For a derailleur hanger, go here: http://www.derailleurhanger.com/

I've ordered from them in the past and they were great. They even worked with me to exchange a hanger since I ordered the wrong one. Very painless.

For other parts, I just shop around via Google. Generally I go with Amazon since I have a Prime account but other times shops will pop up with better prices. I've ordered from most of the places /u/TallBobbyB listed (for the US) and have had good results. Probikekit is based in the UK but they usually have pretty great prices too.

If you want to learn how to fix stuff, you can find just about everything you need on Youtube or the Park Tool Website. If you want something to hold in your hands, Lennard Zinn wrote the bible.

Welcome to the dangerous world of road bike racing. It is a deep hole and how far down you go depends on you.

A few tips below:

• Come check out /r/velo.
  
• Find a few local group rides and get used to riding in a pack
  
• Meet people that know more than you and ask questions
  
• Sign up for a race or two
  
• Get dropped in said races
  
• Start doing some intervals. An even simpler way to look at it is ride hard one day, ride easy the next.
  
• Maybe join a team, maybe ride unattached for now.
  
• Check out The Cyclist's Training Bible. Disclaimer: I still haven't read it.
  
• Look at TrainerRoad or get a coach (I can't afford a coach so I use TrainerRoad plans)
  
• Do more intervals
  
• Hang on and finish mid pack in race
  
• Repeat
  
  Hope this helps some :)
  
  Edit: Sponsorship. If you're racing road you'll end up joining a team if you choose to. That team will have sponsors and will get you deals. My current team has Specialized, a local shop, Stages power meters, Castelli, Selle Italia, Sidi, and a few more. Everything is pretty much 20-50% off. We put together a packet of why they should sponsor us, who the riders are, and what we plan to do to promote their brands. If you're looking to join a team then find one that you get along well with. Having people that will answer your dumb questions, that show you what a paceline is, and are focused on having fun is way more important than 20% off a tire.

Try rollers instead of a spinning bike or stationary trainer. They're a lot more interesting to ride, and like any indoor trainer, is great for structured training sessions with a power meter because you can hold a certain power level very consistently (compared to being outside on a real bike).

But yeah, it sounds like you are itching really hard to jump into the deep end. In that case, the power meter will be the best thing you'll ever buy for your bike :) And the FTP test will be one of, if not THE most miserable things you will do on your bike, so learn to embrace the suffering.

EDIT: Here is one of the authoritative books on the subject, and is what I used to learn about all of this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Training-Racing-Power-Meter-2nd/dp/1934030554/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1467250018&sr=1-1&keywords=training+and+racing+with+a+power+meter

This isn't going to be a popular answer: don't buy upgrades.
Ride your bike and save your money. Then replace your existing bike with something better later.

If something breaks/wears out, by all means, replace it with something a little better. But, the bit-by-bit upgrades thing doesn't dramatically improve the bike.

Instead of buying a power meter, how about finding two group rides a week that are vaguely competitive and reading Joel Friel's book? http://www.amazon.com/The-Cyclists-Training-Bible-Friel/dp/1934030201

The simple act of trying to go faster a couple of times a week will improve your performance. Friel's book will give you an idea how to structure a week. Remember that the number of hours/week in the book is very high for most.

If you really want to train with power, once you have a plan using Friel's book, find a stretch of road that you can easily and safely ride hard without stopping for about 5 minutes and has two landmarks to start/stop a stopwatch. Ride the stretch of road the same time in the week every other week and log the times. Over time, (many weeks) you should see increases in performance. There's your power meter.

I'm not saying power meters are useless. I'm saying there's quite a bit to learn before using one has definite benefits.

I'm no expert mechanic but this is a really good book.

Regular maintenance mostly includes stuff like lubing your chain, keeping everything clean, checking bolt tightness, and making minor adjustments to keep your drivetrain and brakes working smoothly. Occasionally you'll need to do something more in-depth like bleed your hydraulic disc brakes or replace suspension seals - your local shop will be happy to do that stuff if you don't want to mess with it.

i've heard that coaching really helps you improve, but it sounds kind of like a book would be sufficient for your needs.

I have made great improvements using http://www.amazon.com/The-Time-Crunched-Cyclist-2nd-Ed/dp/193403083X

perfect for me because i don't have lots of time, and that book aims for about 7 hours a week max except for the endurance mtb program. and, this book has a cyclocross specific workout plan. i have gone from finishing bottom 25% of 4/5 to being competitive 3/4. i have also learned what my strengths and weaknesses are and am focusing on those before getting back into mtb season.

When I first started riding I was in the same position. I was good friends with a guy who'd been riding his whole life. (1) I asked him to teach me. (2) There was a bike shop that did free workshops and I would go to those. (3) Lastly I watched a lot of YouTube videos. (4) I'd also get a book like Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance. It will be trial and error at first, but eventually the basics become second nature and the more advanced repairs can be done with reference material, patience, and luck. Good luck.

You are right. SO MUCH OUT THERE.

The training bible is a great start/must read - https://www.amazon.com/Cyclists-Training-Bible-Joe-Friel/dp/1934030201

From there, I'd think about what worked for you as a rower and try to build out a plan that makes sense for how you individually enjoy training. Success is heavily tied to your happiness during the activity/training grind (as I am sure you know from rowing).

I am happy to try and give you tips as questions come up, feel free to DM me. I am not the best rider, but I've been fortunate enough to learn from some very smart riders.

If you haven't noticed yet, you'll see this reference mentioned everywhere. Because it really is that good. It's exactly how I got started with my first build, and I know at least two others that started the same way. You need to know nothing more, and nothing less than what this man has written. I found that even the parts I didn't understand at first, later made sense after building a bicycle. It's wonderful. Next, check and see if there are any community bike shop cooperatives near you. They're bicycle goldmines, and nearly anyone involved will be happy to give you a hand. Most of them are ran by volunteers. If they didn't want to help you, they wouldn't be there. If you have access to a cooperative shop, and read through some Sheldon Brown, building your first bike is going to be awesome.

If you prefer paper references, I would also suggest this. Another very well written, knowledgeable guide for first time builders/tinkerers.

Copy pasta of a comment from another thread about intervals:

> If you're really interested in doing intervals check out the Time Crunched Cyclist. It's meant to get you race ready only using different types of intervals three times a week. There are plans for newbies and advanced riders, as well as for specific types of riding like long distance or for cross.

> I've been riding for three years and just did the beginner block over the winter and spring. I definitely got faster from it...which is expected as I've never followed a strict plan before.

I'd really recommend starting with the beginner plan and swap in at least 30 mins of dedicated skills work on the Sunday easy miles ride. Most peoplebeginners don't/haven't put a lot of time in practicing barriers, dismounts, and run ups and you can really put the hurt on them if you're even halfway decent.

As I said above, I started with the beginner block and I felt like I started noticing results at about 7 to 8 weeks in to the plan...which fits with the planned 'peak' the training block is supposed to provide. So figure out what your important races might be and plan to start training 8 weeks out.

Races count as workouts, just make sure you're getting enough saddle time though. Eg, if your race is 30 mins and the day calls for 90 mins total, make sure you're getting that extra 60 between warmups, pre-riding, etc...go for a short ride when you get home if you have to.

What age are you? Officially masters start at 30 or 31, I forget. If you're going to a bigger race with a masters category you're going to get destroyed. You'll find lots of racers that used to be hard core Cat1s in there who are just looking for a win, along with a few people in the same situation you're in. I'd really recommend staying in the beginner category this season. If you haven't made the podium in the beginner category you're in no way ready for the masters. (Even if you had, I still wouldn't suggest it)

The Pacific Coast bike tour is one of the most traveled bike tours in America. I'm a huge proponent of it. If you google pacific coast in this subreddit, you'll see a ton of results and information.

Not only that but there are maps and a book.

The maps: https://www.adventurecycling.org/

The book:
https://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Complete-Canada/dp/0898869544/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517787322&sr=8-1&keywords=bicycling+the+pacific+coast

I recommend the book. My GF and I did the full tour in 6 weeks about 2 years ago - and we took our time. Many of the folks we met were doing it in 30 days. It's about 1800-2000 miles. We started in Vancouver, many start in Seattle.

I've ridden bits and pieces of the same route several times now. Feel free to ask me any questions - I love discussing the coast tour/best campsites/best routes, etc. (see my profile, that's all it is :-)

It's a real book, not an e-book, but Racing Tactics for Cyclists is a fantastic book for helping to learn strategy and tactics. it's written in an easy-to-follow conversational tone, not too heavy, with lots of interesting stories an anecdotes from pro racing mixed in there. Parts of it get a little more involved than you'll see in amateur racing, but reading that book has also made watching pro racing more interesting because I can see why certain moves are being made.

I'm not sure how flexible your itinerary is, but I'd highly recommend reversing course and touring from Vancouver to LA. There are two main reasons, 1) Wind! Winds typically blow north to south during the best touring season and this can severely impact your milage. I can cross Oregon comfortably (not going for any records here, I'm an old man) in 5 or 6 days (but more is more fun) heading north to south, but I'd expect it to take at least 10 days in the other direction.

The second reason is that you'll get a very different experience with other people on tour. Especially through Oregon, where there are established hiker-biker camp sites at intervals designed for bike tour (always $5, no reservation necessary). If you are touring from North to South, you will inevitably meet many other folks touring the same route. The option to cycle solo and avoid the other tourers always exists, but if you are going the wrong direction, then you'll miss out on meeting some of the most interesting bike tourers I've met anywhere.

And a final bonus consideration, the view! If you are traveling south, you've got the ocean on your immediate right and the views are unimpeded by the road.

I found this book of limited use when I was actually on the road, but I got some great advice from it while I was in planning stages: http://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Vicky-Spring/dp/0898869544/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1393962849&sr=8-1&keywords=cycling+the+pacific+coast

Not an endorsement for TP but this offers some help to get started with PM training and it is free so read up on it a bit: http://home.trainingpeaks.com/blog/article/how-to-start-training-with-power-ebook

Also I believe Joe Friel has an excellent book and he tends to lay things out in an easy to read and understand way (again not an endorsement): https://www.amazon.com/Power-Meter-Handbook-Cyclists-Triathletes/dp/1934030953

Buy this book - Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance. it's under $20 on Amazon. Couple of points:

1. Amazingly comprehensive. Includes old stuff and new stuff.
   
   
2. A book is great for having when actually wrenching. Way better than trying to scroll on your phone with greasy hands.
   
   
3. All tasks are broken into three levels of difficulty. The first level is for people like you, and you'll be pleasantly surprised how much that covers. Has tool recommendations for each level.
   
   
4. Most tools don't need to be bike specific. A set of Allen keys, needlenose pliers, and an adjustable wrench will get you further than you think.
   
   Good luck!

I rode from Newport, OR to San Francisco a few years ago. We used a book called "Bicycling the Pacific Coast."

I highly recommend it. I lays out some easy ride days (50-60 miles) and has useful information about the state camp grounds, and even some restaurants and stores along the way.

On a personal note, if you find yourself with some time in the Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, make sure you see Fern Canyon. It was unbelievable. One of the highlights of my trip for sure.

Have fun and hydrate!!!

sport nutrition is a detailed (ie textbook) look at nutrition. the coverage is a bit variable and it could have been edited a bit better, but if you want to understand nutrition in depth then it seems to be pretty good. i have the previous version (which is sold at a much lower price).

training bible is an introduction to training. maybe introduction is unfair - it covers quite a range, but it uses a lot of words to explain things. there's an excellent book one third the size hidden in there.

performance cycling is a collection of papers / chapters from different people. best see my review on amazon. not great.

cycling science i read so long ago i can't remember how it differed from 'performance cycling' (it's similar and also not great).

I did seattle to Santa Cruz, I can tell you a bit about my trip. I did it a little differently than Ben I believe, by going along the coast the whole time.

• I really didn't plan my trip, and I liked it that way. I knew I was going to visit a friend from high school in Seattle, and visit a friend in Humboldt, but that was it. I bought a map for each state I passed through, and carried a book with me called 'bicycling the pacific coast': http://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Complete-Canada/dp/0898869544.
  
  
  -I mainly stayed on the 1/101. Sometimes you have, or want to, veer off onto smaller highways, just look at a map.
  
  -I used a jetboil, a handy backpacking cooking thing. Good for heating up liquid substances, bad for stir-frying and stuff like that. A common meal for me was bread, beans, and avocado.
  
  -I camped every night. I use a hammock for backpacking, and I love it because it is very comfortable and keeps you completely dry when it rains. For biking, it is a godsend. It stretched out my legs while I slept so my knees felt good in the morning. I slept one night on the ground, and it was awful.
  
  -Sunglasses, rocks and bugs are scary.
  Even thought these fit into the 'spare parts' category, bring extra screws. I never would have thought of that, I there were times where i was.... screwed.
  
  -Do it!

Learn about, and then enact base building. After you do 3-6 months building an aerobic base, decide on your on bike goals. Here's great book on it, and it also introduces you to training other areas of your fitness. If you get through a program like this, and still want it, you'll have a good idea what types of goals make sense for you. Then read Friel's book, join group rides, eat as much as you want etc, etc, etc

As a bonus, base building will semi-permanently change your circulatory and respiratory system.

I highly recommend the book in the side-bar it goes over lots of little tips like this about weight distribution, when to brake, lean, etc. The book is really a great help in learning to ride safely while pushing your abilities.

Enjoy, I rode this section early April 2015. Should be even more beautiful in June, too! Consider getting this book before you go: https://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Complete-Canada/dp/0898869544

Note that some specific details are beginning to be outdated. Still, it is basically the bible of the west coast bike route!

P.S. If you can ride like that in training you're good to go. I find a pace of 50 miles a day while touring to be my personal favorite amount. Everyone is different though, so you'll find your balance after a few days. Consider a day off halfway through your first week to let your body catch up to the new lifestyle.

Zinn & The Art of Road Bike Maintenance for a book. Sheldon Brown for articles. Against the chainring or crank arm? If chainring, then it sounds like you just need to lube your chain.

In general, it's good to wipe your chain down after a ride using a rag and just pedaling the bike backwards with your hand. When the chain is no longer quiet, it needs lube. Different lubes last different lengths of time, so I can't really give a schedule for this. Riding in the rain is a good way to make the lube go bye-bye. Eventually the chain will need to be cleaned. Some people clean it on the bike with something like the Park Tools contraption, and some take it off. I take it off, clean it, and lube it before I put it back on (unique to the lube I use)

Get a good book on bicycle maintenance. There are lots out there but I like Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance. If you're new to the whole thing it might feel overwhelming. Start with simple things like cleaning your drive train. You're probably also short on tools and all the specialized bike tools can get expensive. I'd recommend a starter tool kit from Park Tool. While you're there check out the Big Blue Book of Bicycle Repair. If you think you'll really get into it think about buying a bicycle work stand. It makes working on a bike a whole lot easier which will make you want to do it more often.

Personally I used this guide book to find both our route and our nightly campsites: https://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Vicky-Spring/dp/0898869544, but it looks like it hasn't been updated since 2005. Like https://www.reddit.com/user/tony3011 mentioned, it would be prudent to call ahead. You might also be able to get some good, up-to-date info by looking at some trip journals at https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/locales/?locale_id=51157&doctype=journal.

Edit: Also, I would guess that the Adventure Cycling Association maps have fairly comprehensive and up-to-date info about hiker biker campsites.

Not sure if this is applicable, but Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance is really good. I just picked up a copy and have been slowly making adjustments to my bike. It's really helpful.

There is also one for Mountain Bikes as well, which may better serve you.

http://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Vicky-Spring/dp/0898869544

Not sure this book has the area listed because I don't have it downloaded anymore, but its useful for finding the best sites on the west coast. Highly recommend it.

I agree with FastFreire being successful in bike racing is much more than power to weight ratio at FTP. (Although yours is a good start) You may want check out this post on power profiles.

http://home.trainingpeaks.com/blog/article/power-profiling

Also I'd recommend checking out a few other resources on bike racing and power.

https://www.trainerroad.com/podcast


https://www.velopress.com/books/reading-the-race/


https://www.amazon.com/Training-Racing-Power-Meter-2nd/dp/1934030554



If you have the funds you may also want to look into getting a coach to help you interpret your power data and lay out a training plan.

The Zinn books are a great hard copy reference, as well. I keep the Road and MTB editions in my garage near the tools. Great resources with excellent diagrams and descriptions.

>Zinn and the art of mountain bike maintenance

Ha! There is such a thing!

https://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Mountain-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1934030597

I honestly thought it was a typo for Zen, and there is a billion "Zen and the art of something..." out there, and just figured that was one of those. And I was going to pass on yet again, another philosophy of life outlook. Read one, read them all. LOL.

Cool. Thanks.

Wrt when you have gym access again.

My current program is split into 2 phases, Phase 1 (Growth) and Phase 2 (Recovery), the prior lasting 4 weeks and the latter 2 weeks. Each week has a Day A and a Day B (Wednesday and Friday for me) in which I go to the gym and work on a specific routine. Both days focus on lifts/exercises which are targeting key areas and muscle groups that are utilised when cycling.


>Day A Routine

> * Pre-Lifting Stretches

• Squat
  
• Lying Leg Curls
  
• Leg Extensions
  
• Deadlift
  
• Lateral Pull Downs
  
• Push Ups
  
• Inverted Rows
  
• Ab Wheeling
  
• Post-Lifting Stretches
  
  
  >Day B Routine
  
  >
  
• Pre-Lifting Stretches
  
• Squat
  
• Lying Leg Curls
  
• Leg Extensions
  
• Deadlift
  
• Overhead Press
  
• Dumbbell Rows
  
• Leg Raises
  
• Post-Lifting Stretches
  
  In Phase 1 I'm always building on what I did on the previous Day, so either adding weight to the bar, or doing more reps in a set. So it works out that in terms of sets/reps and weight I'm doing this during Phase 1:
  
  >
  Day A
  >
  
• Squat (3x5) +2.5KG each day
  
• Lying Leg Curls (3xN+1) N = # of reps done last time. Starting at 3x5 working to 3x10, then adding 7KG and going back down to 3x5
  
• Leg Extensions (3xN+1) same progression in reps and weight as Lying Leg Curls
  
• Deadlift (3x5) +5KG each day
  
• Lat Pull Downs (3xN+1) same progression in reps and weight as Lying Leg Curls
  
• Push Ups (3xN+1) N = # of reps done last time
  
• Inverted Rows (3xN+1) N = # of reps done last time
  
• Ab Wheeling (3xN+1) N = # of reps done last time
  
  > Day B
  >
  
• Squat (3x5) +2.5KG each day
  
• Lying Leg Curls (3xN+1) N = # of reps done last time. Starting at 3x5 working to 3x10, then adding 7KG and going back down to 3x5
  
• Leg Extensions (3xN+1) same progression in reps and weight as Lying Leg Curls
  
• Deadlift (3x5) +5KG each day
  
• Overhead Press (3xN+1) N = # of reps done last time. Starting at 3x5 working to 3x10, then adding 2.5KG and going back down to 3x5
  
• Dumbell Rows (3xN+1) same progression in reps and weight as OHP
  
  So that's 4 weeks of progression in each of those lifts/exercises either amounting to an additional 8 reps or 20KG. I should probably note here that I'm only on my second round of Phase 1 so progression is still coming easily.
  
  Phase 2 as I mentioned is all about Recovering and is essentially my deloading week(s) in terms of lifting. So I will drop the weight on the bar, and halt the progression in the number of reps. Below is what happens in terms of sets/reps and weight during Phase 2:
  
  >
  Day A
  >
  
• Squat (3x5) -NKG. N = 1/4 of the final weight lifted in Phase 1, i.e. if I lifted 80KG in my final day of Phase 1 I'll drop the weight by 20KG
  
• Lying Leg Curls (3xN) N = # of reps done last time. -7KG in weight
  
• Leg Extensions (3xN) same as Lying Leg Curls
  
• Deadlift (3x5) same as Squat
  
• Lat Pull Downs (3xN) same as Lying Leg Curls
  
• Push Ups (3xN) N = # of reps done last time
  
• Inverted Rows (3xN) N = # of reps done last time
  
• Ab Wheeling (3xN) N = # of reps done last time
  
  > Day B
  >
  
• Squat (3x5) -NKG. N = 1/4 of the final weight lifted in Phase 1
  
• Lying Leg Curls (3xN) N = # of reps done last time. -7KG in weight
  
• Leg Extensions (3xN) same as Lying Leg Curls
  
• Deadlift (3x5) same as Squat
  
• Overhead Press (3xN) N = # of reps done last time. -2.5KG in weight
  
• Dumbell Rows (3xN) N = # of reps done last time. Weight remains unchanged
  
  
  After Phase 2 is complete I simply start over again with Phase 1 and repeat it all over.
  
  As I mentioned I just finished my second round of Phase 1 and I can't believe the leaps and bounds I've come on since starting. I mean both in terms of my lifting ability, and in terms of my cycling. And not just specific areas of my cycling, but across the board in all aspects of my cycling. From impressive gains in my sprinting (both in speed and technique) to my hill climbing (again both in speed and technique). My overall fitness and stamina has also seen the upside to adding some gym work to supplement my cycling programme. What I thought were big strong legs at the beginning turned out to be relatively weak things, as evidenced by the numbers I was lifting at the start 4 months ago, and the numbers I'm lifting now.
  
  This all supplements my current cycling plan which is a 4/5 day plan of; Day 1 (Medium Cycle), Day 2 (Short Cycle), Day 3 (Bonus Cycle), Day 4 (Short Cycle), and Day 5 (Long Cycle). The lengths equating to:
  
  
• Short = 10 - 20 miles
  
• Medium = 30 - 60 miles
  
• Long = >60 miles
  
• Bonus = either Short or Medium
  
  
  During Phase 1 of my lifting I tend to stick to the lower to middle end of those distances, whereas in Phase 2 I tend to be in the upper end of those distances.
  
  This leaves my week looking like the following:
  
  
• Monday - Rest Day
  
• Tuesday - Day 1 (Medium Cycle)
  
• Wednesday - Day A & Day 2 (Short Cycle)
  
• Thursday - Day 3 (Bonus Cycle)
  
• Friday - Day B & Day 4 (Short Cycle)
  
• Saturday - Rest or Bonus Day
  
• Sunday - Day 5 (Long Cycle)
  
  Hope this provides some insight into potential directions for you to go in terms of your training to supplement your cycling. For more Joe Friels "The Cyclist Training Bible" is definitely a recommended buy from me.

1. Join a local cycling club. Here's a big one in Chicago
   
   
2. Build up your palmares so that you can ride something more than CAT5. Cycling racing demands that you move up categories based on your experience. Mostly to keep people who have never raced in a bunch sprint or a paceline from hurting competent racing cyclists. Having never raced before you're likely to start for a season or so at the lowest level (CAT5).
   
   
3. Start racing in local centuries or cyclosportives. I don't want to stomp on your dreams, but unless you're clearly (I mean solo to victory 10+ minutes ahead) then you're probably not pro level. Here's a list of rides happening this year in Chicago.
   
   
4. Commit this winter to doing Joe Friel's program, race a few races in the spring then get your personal physiological characteristics measured (VO2max etc). See how you compare to others.
   
   
5. Start sending out packages (palmares, physio stats, any other value you'd bring to a team) to development squads.
   
   
6. Hope that you got the stuff.

At 230 lbs you are still a bit large for a even for a track cyclist.



Drinking coffee before rides and drinking water with nuun tablets may help you maintain a large mileage at a caloric deficit.



Personally, I have great difficulty maintaining in my lower body strength while cycling (400-500 miles per week).


I would recommend getting The Cyclist's Training Bible by Joe Friel. He does a great job of describing periodization and how to incorporate strength training into your program.

It depends on if I'm in a base phase, a build phase, or if it's during the race season. Also depends on what type of fitness I'm trying to build.

If I was you I would probably go for something like 3x12min w/ 5 min rest between intervals at about 85-94% of threshold.

I would suggest spending a little money on some quality materials from experts who know what they're talking about and then figuring out what works best for you.

A good place to start would be a book like the Time Crunched Cyclist, https://www.amazon.com/Time-Crunched-Cyclist-Race-Winning-Fitness-Athlete/dp/1937715507/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_14_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=S2HW84QKST567NVKRWP0

Finally, something I can answer:

I have two books in my repertoire:

Bike Science 3rd Ed. - This breaks down the physics of what's happening. It goes in depth about materials, history, really everything bike related. It doesn't go into detail about makes and models though.

Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance - Where Bike Science is the why, Zinn gets down to brass tacks and gives you useful information on how to fix a bike (note that there is also a Zinn book for Mt. Bikes and triathlon bikes which I haven't read yet...). This is my go-to reference when something goes wrong with my bike.

BikeForums.net - So I don't know everything about anything but this is the place to do research. SRAM vs Ultegra? Trek vs Cannondale? Someone has already asked the question and it's on BikeForums somewhere. I trust people who've actually ridden/owned a bike I have a question about far more than some online review that was vetted by the manufacturer.

Hope it helps.

I have the Shimano A530 on my city/rain bike and they're great. It's nice to have the ability to ride in regular sneakers as well as being able to clip in. Installing pedals is simple as well. No need to bring it to the shop. All you need is a 15mm wrench and some grease (which you can buy at the LBS).

For the most part I work on my own bike with the help of youtube and this book.. I think as long as you're somewhat mechanically inclined, the hardest part about working on your own bike or car is having the guts to just do it. You're likely not going to screw anything up beyond repair.

You're using your muscles differently that you are use to as well. Your road riding style is constant effort for long distances, where mountain biking is a lot of peak effort for short distances alternating with constant effort on the flats and lower pedaling effort on the downs.

You probably do some of the same things climbing and descending on the road, just not as pronounced as leaning forward on climbs and back on descents. Then there is turning which involves a lot of body movement on the MTB.

Generally I sit on extended climbs, but stand on short steep climbs since they usually follow a fast, short down and I'm already in the "attack" position.

If you haven't already, check out the book by Lee McCormick and Brian Lopes, Mastering Mountain Bike Skills. It's a pretty good read and helped me improve my mountain biking skills.

Generally accepted cadence for aerobic focused pedaling is between 80-100. Any less than 60 is considered grinding. Bradley Wiggins won the hour world record with a cadence of 105, shorter cranks have higher cadence typically.

The generally accepted book for cyclist training is: https://www.amazon.com/Cyclists-Training-Bible-Joe-Friel/dp/1934030201

The next step is attending local group rides. Guys will tell you what you're doing wrong quickly if they're anything like me and they'll drill good habits into you. Hanging with them will make you cycle longer and harder than you're used to and bump up your fitness.

It's an awesome book, fun to read. Another one I would definitely recommend is Racing Tactics for Cyclists, after you read "Roadie'.

Personally, I'd work on over-unders, in your case going uphill; for a given work interval, stand up for 1-2 minutes bringing your HR/Power/RPE above threshold, then back down into the saddle and to tempo or sub threshold for 1-2 minutes (to start I would recommend doubling your work time to find your "recovery" time). Repeat this 3-4 times, then rest for an equal amount of time going very very easy, ie zone 1-2. Repeat. This mixed in with some steadier efforts. If you haven't read Friel that's a good place to start. Racing Weight and the Quick Start Guide help me lose weight. Depending on the type of racing you're doing, you may not have to lose all that much more weight. I race in NYC (virtually flat, no hill more than 40m) and I race fine at 5'10" and 165-170 lbs. Hope this helps.

A bicycle tour like this can be a great adventure, or it can be a disaster. A lot will depend on your attitude and your fitness level. But I think the biggest difference is going to be your preparation and research. Do you have the right bike? Do you have the right gear? Do you have the right route? Do you have a backup route? Do you have a rescue plan in case of emergency or injury? Are you going at the right time of year? Should you travel south to north, or north to south? Where will you stay? Where will you get food? No reddit thread is going to tell you everything you need to know.

Here are some books to get you started. I seriously suggest that you at least skim each of them before you begin a trip:

• Two Wheels to Florida is a nice memoir of someone who did a similar ride from north to south.
  
  
• There's also Two Wheels And A Map: A Solo Bicycle Journey Down The East Coast.
  
  
• You might want to also pick up Bicycling the Atlantic Coast: A Complete Route Guide, Florida to Maine.
  
  
• Also The Complete Book of Long Distance Bicycle Touring.
  
  Start with those. Also, join a bicycle club in your area and ask if anyone has done long distance touring, get advice from them. Also, you'll find a lot more bicycle tourists at /r/bicycletouring than /r/travel.
  
  One more thought: If it is practical, consider your northern terminus being at Acadia National Park. The carriage roads offer some of the best bicycling I've ever encountered.
  
  EDIT: Many many edits.

Lots of great information in this thread about training with power so far.

Training with power is much more than generating big numbers and showing off to your friends. It's a great tool for tracking your fitness and fatigue over time to make sure you don't over train and peak at the right times. Look into Performance Management Charts and how they are used for training.

Even if you have a coach, you should get this book and read through it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1934030554/

Also, sign up for TrainingPeaks or learn how to use golden cheetah. TP costs money, is super nice and automated. Strava is a fun toy, but it sucks compared to a real tool like TP.

Look into getting some reference books, this book is a great one for mountain bike maintenance, and there is also a road bike equivalent.

You'll also need some fairly specialized tools, something like this would be more than enough, but if you get more serious you will want to replace items with the Park Tools equivalent.

You will also need a work stand, but in all honesty I just use something like this, but would not be a great option to work on long term. You will need something that clamps the bike in place, like this Park Tools stand.

TLDR; Bike maintenance requires a decent investment (for a 17 year old) for anything beyond changing a tube.

All good advice. I second the thought that buying from a shop is better than buying from Dicks or whatever for a lot of reasons, especially if you are a relatively new rider. And that Diamondback does not look that good for actual trailriding. The components on the Felt are just ok, but the Diamondback is not very good. If you are serious about riding I'd suggest trying to get something 1 notch above the Felt, but if that is the price limit that is okay too.

For bike maintenance one of the standard books is: Zinn and the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance . Although I think you can get by for the most part with the internet these days, it is supposed to be a good book and the author is very knowledgable. For internet resources, there are many, but Park Tool's website has some very good guides available.

Buy this book: Zinn & the Art of Mt. Bike Maintenance
Best mechanic guide out there. (Take it from me... I'm an ex-mechanic) There's a road bike one too, however much of it is applicable to all bike drive-trains.

One thing I would never skimp on is a quality saddle. Buy a slightly cheaper chain, shifters, whatever... but never settle on a saddle.

You should be able to get a road bike for £500-600. However, it will be entry level so a year or two into it's life (depending no how much you ride) there will be replacements. You could always get a rigid hybrid for the road too if you want to save some money. Here's an example Trek FX Hybrid line

Lights...One thing to know about lights. Unless you're spending $100 on a front light, they're meant so you're seen, not so you can see the road ahead. If you want to see the road, here's an example of what to get Niterider

One final note on a helmet. They all pass the same safety tests. The price increases due to other factors. Comfort of pads and straps, ventilation, etc.

You should definitely get this book if you are moving to AZ -- Fat Tire Tales & Trails. It's a really great reference to have for all trails in AZ and the guy that wrote it is from Flagstaff. It's been great and I have used it for riding in Phoenix, Tucson and Flagstaff (so far).

• I can't recommend this book enough: Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance. It taught me so much about bike maintenance and repair, and easily paid for itself the first time I trued wheels on my three bikes going by instructions from it (couldn't stop after just one pair, it was too much fun). So yeah, invest $16 and save lots money down the road.
  
  
• Try as many different kinds of riding as you can. Hit the local trails, go down to a skate park, check out local dirt jumps and the pump track, try yourself at some lighter DH sections. That Trek 3500 should carry you through most of it (I started with a crappy Walmart bike, then moved onto Trek 4300 which proved to be an excellent "real" starting point). I find that my dirt jumping and skatepark background helps immensely when it comes to "flowing" down trails, pumping, jumping over rooty/rocky sections, and overall confidence on the bike. These skills translate directly into freeride riding, DH, AM stuff. Basically, the more you ride, the better you'll get. Added variety speeds up this process quite a bit.

I'm trying to do more and more of my own repairs as I go. Flats are a non-issue...5 minutes on the side of the road and I'm back in the saddle. I've been slowly buying tools as I need them and the other day got this tool kit in the mail so I could replace a worn out bottom bracket and have some extra tools on hand that I don't have yet. My next project is replacing my gear and brake cables...haven't done that before so it should be interesting. I use this guy for a workstand - it does what it needs to do but it would be nice if it was a bit sturdier. Any time I need to sort out how to fix something I haven't done yet I consult Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance, YouTube, and finally /r/bikewrench. I haven't royally screwed anything up yet and I hope to keep it that way!

This book helped a great deal to ride my first century:

The Complete Book of Long-Distance Cycling: Build the Strength, Skills, and Confidence to Ride as Far as You Want - $16

The route is very well marked. I brought a copy of this map but really only used it to find camp grounds.

I have some ACA maps from the trip, but this book was better written. I would happily send you some ACA maps if you'd like. I think that I have the Northern Washington to LA sections. I have no need to keep them around. I gave my copy of that book away to someone else towards the end of my trip.

Lot's a great wisdom in here to keep riding fun. — https://www.amazon.ca/Just-Ride-Radically-Practical-Riding/dp/0761155589

I took "the book" which you can find here https://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Complete-Canada/dp/0898869544/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496184596&sr=8-1&keywords=biking+the+pacific+coast and that was totally good. The details get a little shady the farther south you get but I'd recommend just taking that. I took an ebook version of it too which was super handy.

Buy and read The Cyclists Training Bible by Joe Friel.
http://www.amazon.com/Cyclists-Training-Bible-Joe-Friel/dp/1934030201

Even if you aren't targeting a particular race, the best way to improve is to train in cycles.

"ride lots" is fine too, esp. since you aren't particularly interested in racing, but the truth is if you want to get as fast as possible as soon as possible, train like you're racing. This may not be as fun, but you have to decide what's worth it to you.

For maintenance guide, I really like the Zinn guides. There's one for road bikes and one for mountain bikes, but a lot of the content is the same.

https://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/193771537X/ref=dp_ob_title_bk

I would also suggest attending a "bike maintenance 101" class. You can often find them through your friendly local bike shop or cycling collective, or sometimes your county DOT will offer them. I took one through the county and learned how to change a flat, adjust brakes and shifters, and clean/lube all the bike parts. It was really helpful!

I picked up this book when I started to get into more complicated repairs. When it came to adjusting brakes and derailleurs and what not, it was trial and error and youtube videos.

In regards to getting a new bike, don't be afraid to go to your lbs and share your concerns. They are going to be able to fit you with a bike that is the best fit for you. As said, you are probably going to need a new wheelset so I'd say try to stay away for your max so you have room to get wheels that are designed to support the extra weight.

Zinn and the art of Bike Maintenance

Pretty good reference book to have on hand as well.

I've got some semi-local rides that I can check that out on.

Will definitely check out Joe Friel's books. Thanks for the beta! :)

The books that helped me the most this year are listed below. What books, or training programs, do you recommend for someone who can get on 2-3 rides a week?



http://www.amazon.com/The-Time-Crunched-Cyclist-2nd-Ed/dp/193403083X

http://www.amazon.com/The-Feed-Zone-Cookbook-Flavorful/dp/1934030767

Have you read this book? It's pretty good...


The Complete Book of Long-Distance Cycling: Build the Strength, Skills, and Confidence to Ride as Far as You Want
by Edmund R. Burke (Author), Ed Pavelka


https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Book-Long-Distance-Cycling-Confidence/dp/1579541992/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539801941&sr=8-2&keywords=long+distance+cycling&dpID=61M4IYE2iWL&preST=_SY344_BO1,204,203,200_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

YouTube is great for specific. I would also recommend reading Zinn & The art of road bike maintenance for fairly detailed explanations. It also has a fairly good glossary and troubleshooting section.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1934030988

I don't have much experience yet with stealth or bike camping above Santa Barbara (100mi north of LA) but you can look here for California State Park campgrounds that have a "Hike or Bike" camping option (click on By Feature on the left and check the box that says Hike or Bike). These campsites are usually $5-$10 per person per night with a 2 night max. I would try to use these when you can because they're a great resource. Unfortunately, many people abuse them by not paying, and the State Parks Commission is pulling them out of some campgrounds and not putting them in new ones.

From what I hear, it's easier to stealth camp once you're north of SF and especially north of California in general. A great resource for touring the coast is Bicycling the Pacific Coast with lots of directions and camping info. I think others may have a better idea of stealth camping options but that's what I know so far!

The Cyclist's Training Bible is the go-to introduction to training concepts. It's probably information overload if you're just getting into the sport, but there's a ton of good information.

The Time-Crunched Cyclist is a really good introduction to interval training. You'd need at least an HR monitor to do the workouts. I don't follow Carmichael's plans in that book, but I did adapt it a little to fit my needs last summer.

The sets are generally not recommended because 1) you don't need all the tools right away and 2) you generally don't need half of the tools.

There are only a handful of tools that are really important to have, the rest is to make things easier. And some tools are better left to the LBS (such as a real headset press).

To remove the chain you will need a chain tool (get a quicklink/powerlink while you have the chain off of the wheel, they're much easier). To adjust the wheels, you will need a spoke tool (assuming it isn't bent too much). Replacing a derailleur shouldn't require any special tools (screw drivers, allen keys). Although if you're going to be replacing shifter cable housing having a proper cable cutter (such as the park one) is important. You probably won't need to though. Don't forget cable ends (maybe ask for a few from your LBS).

Also, this has been helpful (and seems quite popular): http://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Mountain-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1934030597

The rest you can find out from videos online. There generally isn't anything you can't do yourself (although some pressurized components prevent you from reassembling).

started in portland, got a ride to the coast, then pretty much followed the book rest of way.

i also had the gpx file of ACA route and the pdf of brochure from oregon department of transportation that had a recommended route.

reading the book every morning/evening to get an idea of the route and points of interest was really nice.

Some where about Santa Cruz they start to increase the price and add restrictions, like you can't pay/pitch a tent until a certain time and have to leave by a certain time in the morning because of the homeless problems.

$10-15 is still a great price compared to non hiker biker, and it can be hard to find places to stealth camp (although if you're broke enough I'm sure you'd be able to pull it off).

I also suggest biking the pacific coast. It's cheap, has information about campgrounds (like hiker biker), and has turn by turn directions. Also has routes all the way from Canada (which is what I did). Highly highly recommend.

>pretty puzzling that your mechanic hasn’t dialed it in.

The mechanic I'm usually talking to is a right sweetheart, but he's not been in the job for long. I've seen them checking YouTube-videos for guidance on how to fix everyday tasks on common parts, like the Shimano Tiagra handle assembly. When I think about that, I'm not too surprised over the situation, to be honest.

I never cross chain. I always have the chain on the big ring and small gear, or vice versa. Despite this, the chain rubs. I've bought this book, and will try to see if I can't fix it myself before I turn it in.

Sheldon Brown's website is going to be better than pretty much any book out there. If you insist on a book, Zinn is pretty solid.

Wow. You just jumped the shark.

> You first said that no Minnesota law requires you to ride as far to the right as practicable, which is the word I used first

No, the word you used is "possible," he pointed out the law actually said "practicable." You're trying to rewrite history.

> then you said that the reason you ride where you do is because no law says you can't

I don't see this statement anywhere. Actually, he explicitly says the conditions under the law where cyclists are allowed to ride where they need to be safe, an explicit acknowledgement of the rights granted by the law.

> every "safer cycling guide" recommends (and you still haven't provided a single source for your claim)

Google it yourself. But I provided you one instead. Tell me where you live and I bet I can find similar guidelines there. See also the book Effective Cycling, a whole book dedicated to the subject.

I've found this book to be a great reference:

http://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1934030988

In my casual experience working with bikes, once you go beyond stuff that's on your multitool, it's all pretty specialized and a tad costly.

Depending on what bike you're building, you might have more in tools than the bike. If you were talking about fabrication because you wanted to make your own tubing or braze your own frame -- sounds like a great long term hobby, but I don't know that I would ride your first self-taught creation.

At this point I would just get a new bottom bracket. If it has run while being able to move like that at all, the bearings and races are going to be completely trashed.
You should be able to get a new one that is compatible with those cranks for cheap.

If you are interested in doing your own repairs now or in the future get a good book like Zinn's art of mountain bike maintenance.
https://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Mountain-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1934030597/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499692786&sr=8-1&keywords=zinns+mountain+bike+maintenance

You've gotten links to Sheldon Brown's website. His site is an incredible resource.

Past that, I like Zinn and the Art. He has some great illustrations that really see you through some situations.

Also useful is Park tools webpage. It is basically the BBB (Big Blue Book) in electronic form.
Don't be afraid to spend on tools - they are invaluable. Just use your mechanical intuition, and think things through before doing them.

Three good options listed here, I've done #3, Nestucca River Road and it was great, low-stress and passes through some beautiful country. From Portland take the MAX light rail to the end of the line in Hillsboro (shoot for mid-day so you aren't trying to cram a bike and panniers on a crowded rush hour train).

Elevation profile

Oregonian article from a few years ago

We left a little late, maybe 1pm and just barely made it to our BLM campground (Dovre maybe?) at dusk. It's all downhill after that to Beaver.

I will add that a few miles of 101 south of Beaver are a little uncomfortable to ride as there's little / no shoulder, unlike most of the rest of 101. If you pass through this section from further north (the Tillamook option, for instance) I believe they route bikes around on a scenic alternate road-- these are well marked and a common feature of 101. However the Beaver / Cloverdale area isn't very long, so it's not a huge concern IMO.

If you have the Adventure Cycling maps they might come in handy. Much more detailed info (accurate elevation profiles!) than what's included in the book everyone gets, but the later has a nice narrative.

EDIT: typos

Yeah, I had the same problem when I bought mine. It hurt my back to ride it. I think this is one of the places that racing culture has influenced recreational and utilitarian riding. The forward position is to cut wind and get a full extension of the leg when peddling to fully maximize your speed potential...Which just doesn't matter when you're not a racer.

I fixed my bike by swapping out the short downward angle quill stem with a taller, more upright angle, bought fixie bmx style riser bars that slightly slope backwards and a wider, padded seat. I'm not the fastest rider on the road, but I'm not the slowest either. It doesn't take me any longer to get to work now than it did with the racing style setup and it's a much, much comfier ride. More importantly, I can spend way more time in the saddle, which makes me a stronger, better rider since I'm not in constant pain from the bike beating me up.

This book is what tuned me into racing's impact on cycling as a sport. It's a good read:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0074QGFES/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_d_asin_title_o09?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You should be fine with any brand that also makes expensive models. Trek, Specialized, Giant, etc. Their bottom-ranked stuff still needs to be solid and reliable because they have a brand reputation to preserve. The REI branded Co-Op bikes should also be OK. You can also search the internet for reviews of any model bike that interests you.

Buying used is a great way to get started but make sure you educate yourself to ensure you aren't buying someone else's wreck victim / maintenance problems or you can fix them easily. I do my own maintenance and learned pretty much everything I know from a book, Sheldon Brown, Google, and YouTube videos.

I biked that. I rented this book from my local library to use as a reference. It made things easy as far as what type of daily goals to set, tourist options, camping options, etc. But, my biggest piece of advice is to plan around the weather conditions. This is the single most important thing I have to pass on. I will let other people offer advice on getting your bike there and back and just go into more detail about my experience with the weather.

So, I biked from Canada to Mexico in mid-March/mid-April 2012 and this particular section was the most challenging because of the
weather. Although the Oregon coast is beautiful, it rains 350 days out of the year according to a local in Port Orford. So make sure to go at the right time. Not in March/April. The wind was aggressively pointed north. So much so that I had to peddle down hills just to keep moving. It was crazy! From what I remember the wind changes directions later in the year (I think somewhere in the summer months) and the wind pushes you south. That would have been a big game changer. It sucks being wet constantly and moving less than a third a day of what I was doing later in California (up to 90 miles a day in April).

All in all, this particular section of my trip that you are referring to was, for me, the least memorable and least enjoyable of the entire coast. Things got better for me after Crescent City when I took a route in land (and off the guide book) from the Coast to San Fransisco (good choice on my part). The wind was significantly reduced and the weather was much better in general. The highlights of the trip for me were the Redwoods just north of San Fransisco and the coast between San Fransisco and LA. Also, another thing I noticed is that because this area is so popular, you get treated a lot worse than most places. Lots of hippies, and druggies, and bums, and such hitchhike or travel south along this route. The bad seeds stick out in people's minds. Whereas when I went in land (and off the book) people were much nicer to -even impressed by- a vegabond like me.

I'm trying to look up what the wind and weather is like for labour day weekend. I'm not trying hard enough though. Look into it. I'm sure it will be better for you than it was for me and you will have a blast, but double check.


TL;DR: Plan around weather/wind/season.

Yep, Sheldon is my go to for answers. I also have Zinn's guide which can be pretty useful as well.

Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance is a great resource. Also check out a picture like this and then google "How to install x". You'll find plenty of youtube videos that will help you along the way.

I used to think building and truing wheels was some kind of black magic. Then I decided to build my own wheel and it turned out to be pretty simple. I followed in instructions in Zinn's guide with a Park Tool TS-8 truing stand. Now I build and true all my wheels. It's pretty quick, too: about an hour for building and less than five minutes for truing.

If you have the time and a few basic tools, bike maintenance is pretty easy to learn. My copy of Zinn and The Art of Road Bike Maintenance has saved me a lot of money over the years! Also, youtube and r/bikewrench.

The industry has really moved toward this as a way away from custom bikes. Once they had a lot of fit data statistics, some of the bigger companies actually adjusted their sizing philosophies, too. There's more to it than height and inseam. CompetitiveCyclist.com has a fit calculator that will have you do the measurements of each joint, etc. That's close but it's not a substitute for a pro fit.

I just (last week) bought a new bike by mail order. Know that if you do this you will have to have some (but honestly not a lot) mechanical ability to put it together and get it running and adjusted.

Check out http://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/193771537X/ref=dp_ob_title_bk There's probably a copy at your local public library.

At less than 65% you would drop into "Active Recovery" zone. The % of your max heart rate correlates to (perceived) effort.

after training, your 65% MHR power would go up dramatically. A typical training plan you would do base training for long hours at 65% for 2-3 months. Then start adding in higher intensity intervals.

This is pretty much the TLDR for The Cyclist Training Bible

You need to have a helmet and an ID, check to make sure the base isn't closed due to some security stuff

Also get http://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Vicky-Spring/dp/0898869544 if you want some really good advice and plenty of routes to do the Pacific Coast top to bottom.

I believe it is 60-70% of your HR at FTP / 30 minute. Ideally you would use a power meter instead of your HR though.

I'm going to plug a book that I think is great for base training. http://www.amazon.com/Base-Building-Cyclists-Foundation-Performance/dp/193138293X

The back appendices have starting base training programs for beginner / intermediate / advanced riders.

These are just my two cents so interpret how you want. From the looks of things, it seems like you've got a lot of interval sessions in there and this time of year you should focusing on base miles (lots of steady efforts)

I know what you're thinking, '..but I've done a lot of long rides over the summer, so I've essentially already done my base miles?' The thing is that developing your aerobic engine (which is what base miles do) takes a lot of hours and this is the time of the year to do it. Also, doing lots of interval sessions can burn you out before racing season even arrives!

My advice, primarily taken from The Cyclist Training Bible by Joe Freil, would be to cut down your interval sessions to once a week. Also, you mentioned you wanted to help your sprint for next year and the perfect way to do that at this time of the year is some weight training once a week. Fill the rest of the time with base miles. Your running is good for base stuff as well so keep that up.

Finally, if you find yourself getting bored on the turbo you could always do some speed skill sessions which focus on how you pedal and to improve the 'smoothness'. Two sesssions that I currently do are:

Spin ups

• For 1min, gradually build up to max cadence (without bouncing)
  
• Maintain this high cadence for as long as possible
  
• 3min recovery and repeat several times
  
  Leg Isolations
  
  
• Unclip one leg and focus on form, especially at 12 o'clock position
  
• When leg gets tired, switch legs and repeat
  
• When leg gets tired, pedal with both legs for 2min and focus on technique. Repeat.

All the answers you need are here:

http://www.amazon.com/The-Mountain-Bikers-Training-Bible/dp/1884737714

As /u/milliken says, having a structured training plan is definitely beneficial. I'm just now starting to develop my plan as I get back into racing after a long layoff, and I've found this book indispensable.

FWIW, I also recommend:

• http://www.amazon.com/Lactate-Threshold-Training-Peter-Janssen/dp/0736037551
  
• http://www.amazon.com/The-Cyclists-Training-Bible-Friel/dp/1934030201/ref=pd_sim_b_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1BHJ1VR61WPGYDBP8TAC
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Training-Racing-Power-Meter-Hunter/dp/1934030554/ref=pd_bxgy_b_text_y
  
• http://www.amazon.com/The-Power-Meter-Handbook-Triathletes/dp/1934030953/ref=pd_bxgy_b_text_z
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Heart-Training-Edmund-Burke/dp/0880117702/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1427498205&sr=1-1
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Serious-Training-Endurance-Athletes-2nd/dp/0873226445/ref=sr_1_5?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1427498205&sr=1-5
  

> can you clarify? (new to this). Thanks!

You may want to check this book and this book out from your local library. There is a "new competitor" plan in the first book that focuses on the goals you outlined in your post. But, even the "time crunched" plans require 6+ hours on the bike per week over 3 to 4 days. Is she able to hop on a trainer once or twice a week in addition to heading out with you and the groups? Those books with the included plans may help.

Have you considered riding with your wife outside of the group setting for a bit? You'd be able to train with her and get her endurance up so she'd be able to hang with the groups you both would rather ride with.

In the end, the shortest answer to help her is "ride more" but that's more of an /r/bicycling response than an /r/velo response.

Edit: And in case anyone is curious, it seems OP is in Florida. Around my parts, 30 mile routes at 18-20mph is no joke, let alone 22 or 24mph. But, rated climbs are about 5 miles from my driveway ;)

The pacific coast from north-to-south is probably the easiest place in the US to do this. There are campgrounds with designated hiker/biker no-reservation campsites at regular intervals, the prevailing winds work to your advantage, and there are cycling-oriented guidebooks and maps covering the route in detail. Those have the advantage of telling you key things like where the last place to buy food before the campground is, and which towns have a shop where you can get a spoke replaced.

Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance and youtube were my best friends when I built up my road bike from a frameset and components (new and used).

People tend to go N to S due to winds. This book makes a good case for going that way in the first few pages.

Two other sources you might want to Google for route info would be the Adventure Cycling Association as well as Crazy Guy On A Bike journals. Journals are also a good place to see what other people packed.

Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance

I use this one all the time, great and easy to understand.

I've done the exact ride before. I recommend you camp at the state parks! This book has great maps and details for the trip:
http://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Vicky-Spring/dp/0898869544

Good luck on the trip! I just bought this book on Amazon. Canada to Mexico guide. $10 used.

Heck yes, and in the spirit of this thread, bike tools! So much simpler to learn to do your own maintenance on a bike than on a car. It will save you a chunk of money too.

http://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1934030988

Start doing intervals. Here's a decent guide. Here's another.

I'd recommend getting a book like Serious Cycling or The Cyclist's Training Bible if you'd like to learn more about how to go about training in a structured way.

Zinn's book has helped me immensely.

Also got a Park Tools toolset with some of the basic tools listed in the first part of Zinn's book, it's worked great so far. My bike is spotless and I clean it every 3 or so rides, takes 10 minutes.

I'd recommend you to read "Just Ride" by Grant Petersen. Full of (slightly controversial) wisdom, among other, a lot of it about "racer" traits implied to the rest of us cyclists. Weight craze being one of them.

Get the book Just Ride from your library as it discusses the equipment needed for using a bike to commute. It also has a lot great information for someone new to commuting by bike. It will help keep your budget under control and keep you from getting a wanna be racer bike that wont last.

Considering this is all in build up for IM Chattanooga(longer race and in sept) I would try to find a training plan for IM distance and let that carry you up to half IM in the next 12 weeks. george-bob's suggestion of triradar is good but you can also take a look at http://www.trifuel.com/triathlon/ironman-workouts/ and http://www.beginnertriathlete.com/discussion/training/training-plans-view.asp?planid=33&memberlevel=1 . It isn't so important which plan you pick. Just pick one and try to stay consistent with it.

Also since you just got a power meter and are playing around with it I highly recommend Andrew Coggan's Training and Racing with a Power Meter: http://www.amazon.com/Training-Racing-Power-Meter-Hunter/dp/1934030554

Max: 1592w ---- 5s: 1363w ---- 20mins: 345w 4.2w/kg

Played basketball for 15+ years which I would say attributed to my fast twitch muscle fibres.

With structured training you'll see your FTP increase heaps. As others have mentioned, get a copy of Training and Racing with a Power Meter, by Hunter Allen and Andrew Coggan.

Other option is get a coach which will help heaps too !

I use a spread sheet I'm fairly sure it was made or at least endorsed by Joel Friel. You can download it here: https://www.trainingbible.com/resource.php.
If you don't have a plan I strongly recommend getting this book called "The Cyclists Training Bible" which will guide you in all aspects of creating a personalized plan and answers a bunch of other training questions. You can find it here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1934030201/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419837779&sr=8-1&dpPl=1&dpID=519fhwt12TL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40. It is also available as an ebook.

I'm reading Effective Cycling by John Forester right now. It's really helpful to teach you how you should be riding with the other uses of roadways (motorists). Forester has experience with cycling over the decades, and knows the legal reasons behind the often inferior cycling infrastructure in the US. It also has useful fix-it instructions.

Otherwise, I picked up Greg LeMond's Complete Book of Bicycling for pennies at a book sale, and while I haven't read it all the way yet, it has some good bike-fit tips.

Checkout The Cyclist’s Training Bible. Periodization is the key to good training and race prep. That book is an excellent guide on how to go about it.

I haven't read it, or really pursued training programs at all, but I see "The Time-Crunched Cyclist" recommended pretty frequently, including by the amateur racers in my club.

Read this book. It's over there on the sidebar even. There's good stuff in there. Don't target fixate - trees are not magnetic, you should not run into them. Have fun! Oh, and don't wear spandex.

It's actually not that hard. Aside from cassette/bottom bracket tools you will mainly just need a decent set of Allen (hex) keys and some spanners. A decent pair of cable cutters is probably worth it too if you're going to play around with cables/cable housing.

Sheldon Brown or "Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintence" will get you a very long way. Take the plunge :)

I bought a copy of Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance specifically because it includes a sensible list of regular maintenance tasks. It has several lists, like “before every ride,” “after every ride (or three),” “every 1000 miles,” “every 20,000 miles,” and helpful hints about how to know specifically when you need to do certain things, regardless of how many rides or miles you do.

This book is really good and easy to follow.
http://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Mountain-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1934030597/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1345502099&sr=8-3&keywords=bike+maintenance

Also, pinkbike tech tuesdays. Scroll down to see a list of a whole bunch of articles and videos.
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Gorilla-Tape-Tubeless-Conversion.html

Doesn't look broken at all; just like you have enough slack on both the brake and shift housing that it was able to pop out of the brake lever and shifter.

If this is happening, along with the other stuff, you likely just need to take your bike to a shop to have a basic tune-up and cable/housing replacement done.

If you want to fix this yourself, buy the book Zinn and the Art of Mountan Bike Maintenance. It'll cover all of these things and put you on a good path to learning how to work on your own bike.

>I have a co-worker who used to race Cat 4/5 and he kind of lead me to believe that Cat 5 guys were all out of shape wannabe’s

>So far, I’ve done 3 races and I’ve gotten destroyed in all 3 races.

Lol unintentionally accurate.

Anyway, you're not going to be good at bike racing unless you make an effort to be good at bike racing. The idea that you'd coast on talent alone isn't going to work.

https://www.amazon.com/Cyclists-Training-Bible-Worlds-Comprehensive/dp/1937715825/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526314775&sr=8-2&keywords=the+cyclists+training+bible

I rode from portland, oregon south to San Francisco this past summer. If your unfamiliar with the weather patterns on the west coast you may want to check out the wind situation. Every afternoon a powerful wind would come from the northwest, and I mean EVERY night. I met many north bound riders who had to stop riding by 4 or 5 pm because the headwinds were just to harsh. either way i hope you have a great trip. Check out this book http://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Vicky-Spring/dp/0898869544
It helped me a lot with planning campgrounds.

Here’s the book on Amazon:

The Time-Crunched Cyclist, 2nd Ed.: Fit, Fast, Powerful in 6 Hours a Week (The Time-Crunched Athlete) https://www.amazon.com/dp/193403083X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WtA6Bb2X4FP21

Tryon Bike

Join their wrench club & buy this book:
https://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Mountain-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1934030597

Ask lots of questions (bike people are nice folks) and try to become self sufficient with basic repairs because it's all pretty simple and walking home sucks!

First, all you need to get is the cyclists training bible by joe friel. It will tell you everything you ever wanted to know. Base, Build, Peak, baby!

Next, join us over in /r/velo. It's a little dead now in the off season, but things get going in the spring!

edit: I also have the book "Racing Weight" by Matt Fitzgerald. I would highly recommend it.

And you're already thin. Becoming a better cyclist is way more important than losing 2 or 3 more pounds of body fat.

Before signing up for any sort of program, buy this book and read it all. During that time, just record your data and ride as your normally do.

I'd highly recommend finding some software other than strava to use as well, it's pretty terrible for analyzing power data, and some of the power charts with Premium are just flat out broken. Personally, I use Training Peaks, but there are other options, and other free options.

I really like Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance for most projects. Much easier for me than YouTube videos.

There are plenty of trails that are accessible with your car. Your WRX is plenty capable up here in my opinion, unless you want to get into more serious off-roading. Many of the dirt roads are in decent shape as well. This book is indispensable for finding trails and you can pick up a copy on Amazon or in town.

I just moved here recently myself and would love to hit some trails (or routes for that matter). Shoot me a PM when you get to town and we can sort it out!

I tried to ride 3-4 times per week. Some weeks are better than others. I am going to participate in my first race on March 11th, so I am riding every day until then. Sometimes it is only 30 minutes, but other times it is 2-4 hours. I have two young children and a full time+ job, so I just work it in where I can.

My suggestion is to find a community around a good bike shop or a club. If you live in a populated area at all, there will be a bike club. Check Facebook.

There are two books that really helped me.

The Bicycling Big Book of Cycling for Beginners: Everything a new cyclist needs to know to gear up and start riding https://www.amazon.com/dp/1623361648/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IcXBybG217E1R

The Cyclist's Training Bible https://www.amazon.com/dp/1934030201/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.cXByb7BXMY38

I more or less followed this guys route - Bicycling the Pacific Coast, I highly recommend it. It breaks down the day by day and gives you good advice on where to stop/see along the route even though it's 20 years out of print. A lot of people I met along the way, I was traveling by myself, were doing the same route.

There's a book called Bicycling The Pacific Coast which is very useful for the whole route. I'd recommend getting a hold of a copy if you can.

I submit Mastering Mountain Bike Skills as a complimentary book.

One book to keep your bike in shape and another to help you get the most out of it.

Check out "The Time Crunched Cyclist" by Carmichael it's a great book.

You can effectively train for longer rides by doing shorter ones at a higher level of effort. My longest rides tend to be 60 miles (usually average 120-150/week) and I have no trouble doing a century. It can be done, you just need to do it right and avoid "junk" miles - every mile must count. As a roadie, I'm able to incorporate trainer rides as well during the week to ensure I"m targeting the right things. If you're riding a MTB, your approach will need to be different. After I complete 6 Gap century in Sept., I'm switching to 'cross and training for the Gravel Grovel in late Nov. I'll be doing more short max. effort intervals and VO2 max work and much less endurance-type training.

I had to replace a rear derailleur one time and Lennard Zinn Art of Road Bike Maintenance was a major help. If you like a quick witty read check out the Bike Snob

I'm guessing the book is this, but I would be surprised if that were truly something Coggan had written. It doesn't sound like him.

This book is a great resource if you want to learn how to work on bikes:
Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance: The World's Best-Selling Bicycle Repair and Maintenance Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/1934030988/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k3ZNDbA2KEHXE

The author is the tech writer for Velonews and he really knows his stuff.

Can anyone recommend a good bike repair book? I was deciding between these two:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1934030988/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/097655304X/

I haven't done the Pacific Coast Route yet. I was planning for this May but going to Europe with my wife and can't take that much time off of work to do both. So I'll go next May.

But I have been researching the PCR for awhile.

There is a lot of info out there about the trip.

Search "Pacific Coast Route on this sub and Google, you'll get tons of info.

Get this book there is lots of info on the route, camping, side trips, etc.

I have read a lot about it and talked with a lot of people that have done it, but I can't give you any 1st hand info, "yet"

The Time-Crunched Cyclist, 2nd Ed.: Fit, Fast, Powerful in 6 Hours a Week (The Time-Crunched Athlete) https://www.amazon.com/dp/193403083X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_URwRyb1H75ZRE

http://www.amazon.com/The-Time-Crunched-Cyclist-2nd-Ed/dp/193403083X

This assumes you have a power meter and/or heart rate monitor. If you don't, and you're serious about making the most of your short training time, get one.

Read The Cyclists Training Bible by Joe Friel.

Like others say its such a hard question to answer. I (and many others) found that book to be a very good starting point.

Let me give credit where credit is due then:

Grant Peterson's Book "Just Ride"

If it's the only thing you do -like a Strava-denizen- then yes:

http://semiprocycling.com/the-dangers-of-long-term-endurance-exercise

http://breakingmuscle.com/cycling/cycling-might-be-bad-for-bone-health

http://www.amazon.com/Just-Ride-Radically-Practical-Riding/dp/0761155589

http://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Vicky-Spring/dp/0898869544/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405709687&sr=8-1&keywords=biking+pacific+coast

Great little book.

Grab this book. A lot cheaper than the ACA maps and works great for the route. When I rode it a few years back, a lot of people used this as a route guide.
https://www.amazon.com/Bicycling-Pacific-Coast-Complete-Canada/dp/0898869544/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494339991&sr=8-1&keywords=Cycling+the+Pacific+Coast

This trail book is a great little resource for Arizona trails:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0966476980?pc_redir=1395745505&robot_redir=1

I use Zinn & The Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance. It's great too, and focuses on, ummm... mountain bikes.

I'd second the time crunched program - using a slightly modified version of the commuter program blended with the MTB program and it has been awesome.

http://www.amazon.ca/Time-Crunched-Cyclist-2nd-Ed-Powerful/dp/193403083X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396165978&sr=8-1&keywords=time+crunched+cyclist

Do yourself a favor and pick up the 5th edition (just came out) of Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance.
http://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Road-Bike-Maintenance/dp/193771537X/

The cost of the book will pay for itself in repair savings and educate you about tools, parts, and even some safety information. A little knowledge will save you money and frustration.

I've loved this resource for many of those questions

https://www.amazon.com/Zinn-Art-Mountain-Bike-Maintenance/dp/1934030597/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524678006&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=zin+and+the+art+of+bike

Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance is basically the bible of bike repair. Buy that and supplement it with videos on YouTube from Park Tools or GCN.

If you live in a decent sized city, check and see if there's a bike co-op. They usually offer free/low cost repair classes and have a whole bunch of tools so you can see what you like/need.

I'm a Park Tool loyalist and will only buy that brand for 90% of my bike tools (my hex wrenches, tire levers, screwdriver, and fixie chainwhip are not PT). They're more expensive but they're solid and last forever. Can't really go wrong with them.