Reddit mentions: The best darkroom supplies
We found 70 Reddit comments discussing the best darkroom supplies. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 37 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Paterson Universal tank and 2 reels-#115
- Exclusive Lifetime Replacement Guarantee
- Paterson Universal Tank takes two 35mm film, or a single 120/220 film
Features:
Specs:
Color | black |
Height | 6.4960629855 Inches |
Length | 5.57086613605 Inches |
Weight | 0.000992080179 Pounds |
Width | 5.57086613605 Inches |
Release date | April 2020 |
Size | Tank #115 |
Number of items | 1 |
2. Ultrafine Unicolor C-41 Powder 35mm / 120 Film Home Developer Kit (1 Liter)
- 1 Liter Kit contains:
- Developer-66.3 grams
- Blix A-161 grams
- Blix B-82 grams
- Stabilizer-4.99 grams
Features:
Specs:
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Weight | 0.01 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
3. Logisys CLK12BL2 Dual Cold Cathode Light Kit, Blue
- Item Weight: 0.5 lb
- Country of Origin: China
- Color: Blue
- Brand name: Logisys
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Height | 0.5 Inches |
Length | 12 Inches |
Weight | 0.32 Pounds |
Width | 0.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
4. Neewer 12''X11''/30cm X 27cm Wooden Director's Film Movie Slateboard Clapper Board
- It can record film production, director, scene, take, roll and date.
- Engraved lettering for longevity
- Size ( L x W ): Approx. 12 inch X 11 inch
- Material: wood, quality safe and environmental-friendly.
- Color: White and black
Features:
Specs:
Height | 10.5511810916 Inches |
Length | 11.81102361 Inches |
Weight | 0.850625 Pounds |
Width | 0.787401574 Inches |
Release date | August 2014 |
Number of items | 1 |
5. Ultrafine Unicolor C-41 Powder Developer Kit (2 Liter)
- 2 Liter Kit contains:
- Developer-132.6 grams
- Blix A-322 grams
- Blix B-164 grams
- Stabilizer-9.98 grams
Features:
Specs:
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Weight | 6 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
6. Darkroom Bag Film Changing Bag - 23.3"x23.3" Thick Cotton Fabric Anti-Static Material for Film Changing Film Developing Pro Photography Supplies
- 📷SIZE - 23.2"x23.4" Darkroom bag for bulk loading the film.
- 📷MATERIAL - 100% Brand new, made with high quality & dense fabric, antistatic material for film changing, film development.
- 📷LAYER - Sealed to ensure the operation is not leaked, shading performance guaranteed.
- 📷USEFUL - Free you from the confined closet, 100% light-proof, no worries to remove developing tank.
- 📷CONVENIENT - Built-in zipper to secure changing and loading the film.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 23.3 Inches |
Weight | 0.440924524 Pounds |
Width | 23.3 Inches |
Size | Large |
7. Neewer Acrylic Plastic 10x8"/25x20cm Director's Film Clapboard Cut Action Scene Clapper Board Slate with Color Sticks
Organic(Acrylic) material and non-wood produced, easy to be written or cleaned.English version, beautiful and stable.Computer-graved and with printings non-lose.Built-in magnetic stripe, professional and resonant while being clapped.Clap-strip, special design and powerful enough to avoid crack.
Specs:
Height | 0.393700787 Inches |
Length | 9.842519675 Inches |
Weight | 0.1543 Pounds |
Width | 8.0708661335 Inches |
Release date | March 2015 |
8. 12" Cold Cathode Case Lights - 2 Piece (Blue)
- Two 12-inch Blue neon tube
- 30,000 lifetime hours
- Acrylic construction
- I/O header with power switch
- 4-pin power pass-through connector
Features:
Specs:
Color | 12" Blue |
9. Beseler Cadet II 35mm Film Enlarger with Lens and Negative Carrier (Black and White)
- An internal zooming ability allows the focal length to be adjusted without the over-all length
- Filters, such as circular polarizers and other special effect
- Thanks to the internal focusing mechanism
- The filter will not move during focusing
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 15 Inches |
Width | 13 Inches |
10. Ilford Ilfotol Non Ionic Wetting Agent 1 Litre
- Non-ionic wetting agent
- Aids rapid even drying
- Suitable for film and paper
- Good for antistatic treatment
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 1.9685 Inches |
Length | 3.937 Inches |
Weight | 2.20462262 Pounds |
Width | 1.9685 Inches |
Size | 1 Litre |
11. Kalt Stainless Steel 120mm Developing Tank
- Kalt Stainless Steel Tank-NP10114
Features:
Specs:
Color | Stainless Steel |
Height | 4 Inches |
Length | 4.25 Inches |
Width | 4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
12. Kalt Stainless Steel Reel -NP10110 (35mm)
- Kalt Stainless Steel Reel -NP10110 (35mm)
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.5 Inches |
Length | 3.5 Inches |
Weight | 0.2 Pounds |
Width | 3.5 Inches |
13. Fixer for Paper and Film, 1Gallon Mix
Black and white chemistryMixes to One GallonPowder form stores for long periods of time
Specs:
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
14. Kodak D-76 Developer Powder, B and W Film 1 Gallon
- D-76 provides full emulsion speed and excellent shadow detail with normal contrast, and produces fine grain.
- One gallon mix is in powder form and must be mixed with water before use.
- You'll find it an excellent choice for almost any general photo application.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.3 Inches |
Length | 9.6 Inches |
Weight | 0.9 Pounds |
Width | 7.1 Inches |
15. LegacyPro L110 Black & White Liquid Film Developer, 1 Pint (Makes 2 Gallons)
- Extremely versatile
- For normal or push processing
- Liquid
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 8 Inches |
Length | 3 Inches |
Weight | 1.38 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
16. Kodak Rapid Fixer, 5160353 Solutions A & B for Black & White Film & Paper - Makes 1 Gallon for Film/ 2 Gallons for Paper 5160353
For machine, tray, or tank processingConsists of two liquid concentrates: Solution A (the fixer concentrate) and Solution B (the hardener concentrate)For use with film and paperLiquid
Specs:
Color | black |
Height | 7.87401574 Inches |
Length | 2.755905509 Inches |
Weight | 3.4 Pounds |
Width | 2.755905509 Inches |
17. Kodak Indicator Stop Bath For Black and White Films And Papers, 1-Pint Bottle To Make 8-Gallons.
Non-hardening, general- purpose stop bath for use with films and papersContains an indicator to signal exhaustionDilute 1 part concentrate with 63 parts water
Specs:
Height | 6 Inches |
Length | 4 Inches |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
18. GraLab Model 300, 60 Minute Photography and Darkroom Timer, 7-1/2" Length x 7-1/2" Width x 2-1/2" Height
60-minute timer has 6.5” face (Diameter), with luminous numerals, dial, and hands for enhanced visibility in darkroomsTwo hands for setting by minutes, seconds, or a combination of minutes and secondsTwo outlets for automatic switching between enlarger or printer and safety lightElectric motor pro...
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 5.2 Inches |
Length | 11.9 Inches |
Weight | 2.35 pounds |
Width | 9.3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
19. Photographers' Formulary 07-0091 Liquid Cyanotype Printing Kit
Also known as blue printing or sun printsCapacity: 24 8x10-inch printsUnder most conditions the image is permanent
Specs:
Height | 6 Inches |
Length | 4.75 Inches |
Weight | 2.6 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
20. Kodak Hypo Clearing TM ~ 5 gal.
- Kodak Hypo Clearing TM ~ 5 gal.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Weight | 1.05 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on darkroom supplies
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where darkroom supplies are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
https://www.amazon.com/Ultrafine-Unicolor-Powder-Developer-Liter/dp/B00OU6LXUGn - you can probably get 8 - 12 rolls out of this before it's used up. You'll need a lot misc supplies for at home dev; the more you do it the more items you "realize" you need. My current list:
I probably missed something but that's all I can think of. Watch Ted Forbes' video on at - home C-41 dev to get a better idea of the routine. Hope this helps. I estimate I spent somwhere between 30-70 on the whole thing, but it's definitely worth it versus the 10 dollars per roll I have to pay at a lab.
You also have to, though, factor in scanning. I have a scanner at my College's film lab that they let me use, but if you don't have access to one that's something else to consider. If you don't care too much about quality, most libraries have printers with decent scanners.
Good luck!
There are varying types of film cameras. I prefer medium format, but the least expensive is a 35mm camera. You can get them cheap on eBay, or pawn shops. Watch for them at garage sales as well.
Developing film is pretty easy. You'll want to get a kit. This is similar to the one I bought for myself at college https://cinestillfilm.com/products/start-kit-black-friday-universal-developing-tank-2-film-reels and it worked really well. This is black and white only, to develop color you'll need A LOT more. Here's a short quick guide on B&W film developing https://www.ilfordphoto.com/beginners-guide-processing-film/?___store=ilford_brochure&___from_store=ilford_brochure
Film has it's own unique properties and development times. You'll figure that out as you learn. Here's a guide for times for film https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
As far as printing, that's a bit more tricky as you'll need a room with good ventilation and one that has no light leaks. You'll need equipment https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php and https://www.amazon.com/Beseler-Cadet-II-Enlarger-Black/dp/B0000A9ZBD/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3N7UJM0U1XEJF&keywords=film+enlarger&qid=1573246901&s=electronics&sprefix=film+en%2Celectronics%2C162&sr=1-3 there are cheaper options for both, but this gives you an idea of what you'd need. You'd also need the chemicals, and measuring cups, a way to dry prints, as well as some filters for contrast for the enlarger.
Other things you'll need-negative film holder pages, a way to dry the film (dust free way to hang them if possible-I used to use my empty bathroom right after a thorough cleaning.) A good timer that does not have a light source if you are printing.
I'd love some input on my current homemade record washing fluid dilemma! Basically multiple questions.
I've used up my record washer fluid that came with my cleaning system (VinylStyl). Now I want to make one of two cheaper, homemade record washer fluids but I don't know which one is a better idea. I also use a vinyl vac for when I don't need to do deep cleaning.
I have a VinyStyl Record spin cleaning system (basically what I think is a better spin clean) and don't want to buy the manufacturer record washer fluid again.
Option one is tergitol with distilled water. And if I do this, would buying a pint of tergitol for ~$22 be more cost effective than buying a product called tergikleen for $22 from Amazon?
Option two is making the more well known 4 part distilled water/ 1 part 99% Isop. alcohol / 0.5 % Ilford Ilfoto wetting agent for ~$23 (cheaper on B&H).
I'm leaning towards option one, with a tergikleen/distilled water setup. My further question is if tergikleen is ok to use with a plastic and goat hair brush spin system like the vinyl styl? Would it have a bad reaction in any way? Or is sticking with an alcohol washer fluid like the manufacturer gives you a better idea?
Also, the con of the tergikleen method is having to rinse in water after. So idk. Tergikleen doesn't contain alcohol (which does damage 78 RPM shellac-based records) so that's nice.
Here are the discussion sources I gathered my cleaning fluid info from: 1 . 2 . 3 . 4 . 5 .
Lastly, the prices that record cleaning companies are able to charge for their small volume cleaning fluids is a sham.
Yes, that's awesome, but this is more than adequate. I have one and it's pretty good. You'll also want a bag for opening the film canister and loading the tank. I think they're like $10. There are a lot of options for chemicals, you can even make your own developer out of household stuff, which is kind of fun to experiment with.
I just bought a Powder C-41 Processing Kit and I have first-time developing questions:
Any help and advice is very much appreciated! If there is also anyone who can who has experience with developing with this kit, I would love to get in touch!
I shot film before digital. That's how they did it in my high school photo class 14 years ago. I think it was a good experience, because like you said, you can't cheat. It definitely makes you try harder and you don't know if you got the shot immediately, so you really have to set up the shot before you take it. Then you're just praying it comes out.
But there is something magical about it. The physicality of it. The fragility of your photos that could be lost in an accidental exposure to the light. The fact that you are paying so much for each shot means you value each of them so much more. This is ideal for improving your skill.
If you really intend to keep shooting film, you should try developing the film yourself. To get the full experience, as well as save money. You don't need a complicated set up if you aren't printing. And you can just scan the negatives. You'll need one of these. And some developer, stop, and fix solutions. Then you just need to make your bathroom light proof. Cover the cracks in the doors and such. You'll be walking around the house with that canister as you do other things, shaking it every few minutes. But you'll get to see those pictures come out the day you took them and you'll wonder why you paid so much for some else to do it for you.
And I'd get some black and white film. Maybe Tmax. The thing about B&W is that it makes you focus more on the basics. Texture and contrast matter that much more. When I have the time and money, I'd like to get a medium format camera and start shooting B&W film again. For me, it doesn't get much better than Nick Brandt's work with 120mm on a Pentax 67.
Black & white film is very easy to do at home. The main things you need are film tanks and reels (get the metal ones, the plastic ones suck), developer and fixer. A thermometer that can be accurate in the 20º C/68º F is also a must.
You'll need bottles and stuff, but at least initially you can use empty water jugs or something as long as they seal tight. You also need film clips, but you can probably find something laying around the house that will work.
I wouldn't bother with C-41 film these days. It's too pricey and digital is an adequate substitute.
Disregard the other commend about a "red light." Unless you're using hard to come by orthochromatic films you'll fog your film if you try to develop by inspection under a safe light. You have to load the film in total darkness. And a safe light is a distinct thing from like a red party bulb.
You might find this helpful, though it's largely about printing.
Hi everyone- long time reader, first time caller.
B&W Development
I'll be using HC-110 (liquid concentrate), tap water for a quick "stop" bath, and Ilford Rapid Fixer. I bought my current liter of HC-110 concentrate back in 2017 and I've maybe used ~5% of the bottle. If I only ever use Dilution B, some quick math says it's good for a total of 64 rolls of film (35mmx36 or 120). Some Googling tells me that it'll last forever in concentrate form, even if it isn't airtight. My bottle has some dark brown spots and streaks in the air portion of it and for the time being, I've squeezed the air out.
Question 1: What do y'all think about the HC-110? It should be fine, right? I'm going to get one of those accordion bottles and transfer the concentrate I have out of the original bottle and into one of those. (Unless anyone has an alternate suggestion?) I leave all my chemistry in a fairly dark cabinet in a relatively dry part of the house, but given that I shoot so little film, I'd prefer not to have to rebuy chemistry every year if I can avoid it.
Ilford's documentation for the Ilford Rapid Fixer is that a single batch diluted to 1+4 is good for 600 rolls, but if it's stored AIRTIGHT, it should be replaced after 12mo. Knowing that 12mo will always elapse long before I get through 600 rolls and because I couldn't think of a way to keep it airtight before stumbling across those accordion bottles, I basically use it as a single shot liquid, just like developer.
Question 2: Does fixer last longer in concentrate form? Should I leave it as a concentrate and dilute as needed? Does anyone have any suggestions other than those "accordion" bottles for fixer? It's been a full calendar year since I used what I have on hand and, frankly, I just don't trust it anymore so I want to be smart about how I use the next set that I buy.
Question 3: I've heard that developer and fixer shouldn't be put down the drain. I've been collecting spent developer and "spent" fixer in additional jugs; can anyone tell me how I could go about figuring out where I can take this stuff?
Color Development
Full disclosure: I've never done color development before. BUT we got a sous vide recently and some Googling confirmed that it can be used to get chemistry up to temp reliably for C41 processing, so I want to give it a shot. Now, I see these C41 "kits" that include developer, blix, and stabilizer and they say that the developer is good for 8 rolls.
Question 4: Since it all comes in a kit, am I correct in assuming that all three fluids should be replaced after 8 rolls? Also, they specifically say 8 rolls of 35mmx36, which according to my back-of-the-envelope math, is the same as 8 rolls of 120. Do I have this right? And since its only 8 rolls, I plan on just putting this stuff in some amber 1L bottles I have laying around from back when I attempted to make Kombucha. Do y'all have any thoughts on this?
Thanks everyone!!
just as a sweet little biz case to see how far home development gets you.
let's say you want to keep it at colour. right now 36 shots cost you $11. with the little upfront investment you need to go home development (about $100) you can go quite far.
two minutes of an amazon search gets you to $2.80 per roll of 36. this 2L C41 kit costs $50 and should be yielding you at least 30 films if done correctly. assuming you have any kind of digital camera and a computer screen you can scan for internet size publishing just fine.
so that means you are now at $4.47 per roll (and that's not even pushing it with bulk loading and larger liquid developing kits), which would mean you'd have paid off your $100 startup investment after 15 films.
on top of that, it's really really easy to develop film at home, as long as you take care of yourself and the people you live with by NOT doing this in the kitchen and making sure you work cleanly.
Potatolicious has the basics down pat -- not much to add except: Start simple with the chemistry.
You can get some basic Kodak chemicals (D76 developer, fixer and stop bath) for less than $20 on Amazon (link: http://www.amazon.com/Kodak-Black-Developer-Powder-Gallon/dp/B00009R76N -- check out the "frequently bought together" deal on the page)
Over time, if you get into it, you'll find that different film/developer combinations will give a huge range of results that will help you both account for different contrast situations and develop (no pun intended) a personal style. But D76 is pretty basic, forgiving stuff and a geat place to start.
Good luck!
That's what a "clap board" is for but you can also just have the subject in the video clap their hands. This gives a spike on the audio that we can use to sync so the person's hand clap and the spike match up. Usually this is close enough for speech so it looks like the persons lips are moving in sync with the audio.
Clap Board: https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Acrylic-Plastic-Directors-Clapboard/dp/B00S4QRBZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459216178&sr=8-1&keywords=clap+board
Edit: If you are interested here is an explanation of the why's and how's of video / external audio sync.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZVNEo2dH9I
You can use a clacker old school style :D
Just do a clack at the beginning and end of your recordings and then look for the spike in the waveform whenever you go to sync up your audio. I do this whenever I record with my camcorder so I can get cleaner audio than the onboard mic. Works great!
Or if you don't want to buy a clacker... just clap your hands in front of the camera and look for the spike that way where your hands meet.
But the clacker is more fun lol.
The L-110 in my experience gives the same results as HC-110, and with the same dilutions and times that are listed everywhere for HC-110. It also has a consistency between water and milk, which makes it much easier to measure and mix. I don't have hard numbers for the shelf life of the L-110, but I opened a bottle of it last october when I ran out of HC-110 syrup and it was still going great when I processed a roll a couple days ago.
​
It is also available through amazon prime in the US. Make sure you get the L110, not the L110R (which is the replenisher)
Hello all! I'm going to be developing film for the first time and have some questions about chemicals and proportions.
I'm going to develop black & white film (Kodak T-Max 400) using these 5 chemicals:
There's challenging opinions as to how much I should dilute these chemicals in water and temperature. If someone is willing to help me decide on what proper ratios I should be mixing these chemicals with, that would be amazing!
Thank you! :)
Welcome to film!
Probably the easiest/cheapest thing to do starting out is get some cheap Fuji or Kodak film from your local drugstore and get it developed there or at Costco/Walmart. These places will also scan your film but don't expect much from that service, a lot of people get bummed out when the scans aren't that great but that's because those places usually just auto scan the negs (you will have to do some post processing). If you like film a decent used scanner can be had for $20-40 these days.
Long term, black and white is cheaper, but you might have to invest about $10-$100 upfront for a developing tank and chemicals off Craigs list/ebay/amazon. But then you will be shooting for about $3-$5 a roll, and it's way more fun to develop your own stuff (you don't need a darkroom, a lot of people develop film in their washrooms and about 90% of it can be done it the light).
Come check out /r/analog, there is a weekly ask anything post (might be a little late this week) where you can get tons of information, as well as see what people are doing with film. There are still a lot of people using it and we're always looking for more people!
What do you already have? I really like lighting personally; LED, RGB, etc. fans are a plus, because you get good lighting AND some extra cooling. I also like the [cold cathode] (https://www.amazon.com/Logisys-CLK12BL2-Dual-Cathode-Light/dp/B0013OFJEO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497370306&sr=8-1&keywords=cold+cathode) light bars you can put in too. It adds a lot of nice lighting effects.
Unfortunately, no. If you’re completely new to developing and haven’t yet done black and white, there’s a bit of an initial expense. I’m going to just list off everything I use for developing. It’s actually pretty compact, I’ve thrown it all in my car on impulse and developed C41 at friends’ houses a few times. I store it all in a small cooler which I also fill with water while developing. Since the developer needs to be 102°F with moderated precision for the duration of the developing time, it helps to have a larger body of water that won’t lose temperature as quickly. So first step for me is to fill this cooler slightly upwards of 102° to put the tank in while I’m not agitating. If you’ve got a cooler, great; if not:
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I think that’s about it! You can definitely go cheaper if you look around. The one thing I wouldn’t cheap out on though is the tank/reels. I started with a really cheap stainless steel setup. My reels came pretty bent up and took ages to load, like half an hour at times. I’d often have film stick to itself. I tried C41 with it one time and got blix everywhere, plus it was leaking in the cooler underwater. Everyone says Patterson is the way to go, and I haven’t tried much else but it’s served me well.
I've been looking at prices for developing and it seems like it's going to be too much for me. I decided to just start developing on my own but I'm not sure where to start with the chemicals. Right now I'm shooting with Kodak Good 200 and after some googling I know i need some c-41. Would this be the only thing i need? Also after looking at some YouTube videos, it seems like there using more than just one chemical. What are the other ones?
Actually one of the only pieces of advise I have for audio/vid synching is: Get/Make a clap board.
Be meticulous about writing down the correct take numbers and saving them correctly marked in your DAW. When you're editing the videos this will be a GOD SEND.
Also, I've heard people saying that just have someone clap in the video. This works - but to get it as synched as possible (always a pro synch), a clapboard works better because the white/black arrows in closed position clearly indicate when the clap is fully closed. When watching someone clap without sound it can be hard to see when their hands actually make contact.
I know this advice sounds a little silly, but trust me. A video that isn't properly audio/video synched just kills the vid.
> Also how labour intensive would the process be?
It's not much work, the equipment is cheap and it's very easy to do.
I studied photography in the '80s and most of my friends and I would develop B&W film in our apartment bathrooms. Many of us had the exact kit you linked to. Some people had the stainless steel version, I had the plastic one.
If you have a laundry room or kitchen with about 3 feet of countertop that's all you need. You don't really need a dark room either, you can load the film onto the developing reels in a dark bag.
I used to use the same method (with a wrist watch, pre smart phone days). It works pretty well if your times aren't long. Consider getting an extension cord with in-line switch to make it easier.
After getting sick and tired of looking at my watch, I started using these photo enlarger timers which is what I've been using ever since. Well, I have a digital one now but essentially the same thing.
As far as the vacuum, I've not needed one for my stuff but I don't do a lot of fine halftones or complicated index prints. If you DO want to do process or index prints, you will probably need the vacuum.
You don't even need a changing bag really, just a black sweatshirt or a jacket and a closet.. or just do it after the sun goes down. :)
https://www.flickr.com/groups/87245355@N00/discuss/72157625152041481/
And, I used to send my stuff out, but after paying 15 dollars each roll I realized that after like 5 rolls of film I could have just gotten all of the equipment I needed. So I hopped on craigslist and got it!
https://www.amazon.com/Paterson-Universal-tank-reels-115/dp/B0000BZMIH/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483653601&sr=8-1&keywords=developing+tank
Dooo it. :D
definitely in camera (or extraction) - not developing.
grab some blackout fabric and velcro and you can make your own bag with arm holes that'll be easier to use... or just buy one. i worked in photo labs in the 90s and we used these leader cards so we never had to touch the film. you can even keep the canister attached (small piece of tape holding the lead to the card) and pull the film out as you develop. use this to get a lead to attach.
You're gonna need chemicals
Other materials:
I was able to obtain most of these except the developing tank, dark, bag, and chemicals cheaply. But the FPP does offer a full kit for sale through their store.
They also have a pretty helpful video, and there are a bunch of walkthroughs online. I'll list a couple.
The first guide has you warming your chemicals in a bath, I use a home depot bucket.
Actually cathodes. I used velcro to adhear them to the case. I actually prefer them over led's because it spreads light so well and has an awesome cool blue glow.
Here's a link to the set http://www.amazon.com/12-Cold-Cathode-Case-Lights/dp/B000BUDHOA
EDIT: they use the four pin ATX to connect bty, no usb.
its $36 for this kit here. and $19.99 on amazon... here
this is the exact kit i used in college. works great. the only thing you need to develop the photo is water.
For developing you don't need a darkroom, just a dark changing bag.
If you'd like to enlarge those negatives, then yeah, darkroom, enlarger, sink, etc
The current craze started sometime around 2015 and has been steadily growing in popularity since. We'll hit peak saturation, but I really don't see it ever going away, least of all any time soon. Before LED lighting happened, we were using cold cathode lighting instead. It's not that everyone's picking up on a passing fad, but that manufacturers have tapped into something that a lot of people have always kind of wanted in the first place.
In a modern build sure - but not in a retro build. Use the lighting from the era.
Edit:
And they are cheap! They were $40-$50 USD back in the day - now you can get them Amazon prime for $12!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BUDHOA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_ykgDDbPRBB411
Try this. I haven't personally tried it, but it looks exactly like the same thing.
http://www.freestylephoto.biz/search?q=unicolor+1+liter
http://www.amazon.com/Ultrafine-Unicolor-Powder-Developer-Liter/dp/B00OU6LXUG
http://www.amazon.com/Logisys-CLK12-Cathode-3-0mm-Diameter/dp/B0013OFJEO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1409905165&sr=1-1&keywords=Logisys+cold+cathode
Enjoy, Brother.
You can't go wrong with a Paterson Universal Tank, and you'll certainly be able to find them used on CL or ebay. Beyond the appropriate chemicals for whichever film you're using, you don't need much more than a film squeegee, some binder clips, and either a clothesline or some wire hangers. Sort of related, you should look into buying 35mm B&W film in bulk 100' rolls and then load your own canisters.
Printing photos takes a lot more gear, so most of the time I scan my negatives and then digital from then on.
You can get a nice slate and a sharpie for that.
I wrote this long time ago, just dug it uo:
I actually just bought the whole kit and started to develop at home again since I am no longer able to access the college darkroom facilities.
I will link you everything I bought (which was on B&H/amazon/walmart) in USD.
FOR B/W:
You can get around 20 rolls of film per 1 liter dev of D76 1:1 & TF-4 Fixer. This means you'll be spending 1 dollar per developed roll
FOR C-41 COLOR:
Check out the side bar for how to develop B/W & C-41. Or check out youtube videos.
Options:
(1) Squelch.
(2) External microphone + mixer.
(3) Multiple cameras, one on the NFlightcam cable, the other using its microphone. Sync them somehow (clap your hands, or go Hollywood), mix the two audio tracks together in Final Cut Pro or Adobe Premiere or whatever you're using (the GoPro Studio software itself might be able to accomplish this, too).
The blue light is just an old blue cold cathode kit from my case modding days. ~$9 shipped on Amazon
http://amzn.com/B0013OFJEO
Do you think i should use these?-http://www.amazon.com/Logisys-CLK12-Cathode-3-0mm-Diameter/dp/B0013OFJEO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418966064&sr=1-1&keywords=pc+case+light
or these?-http://www.amazon.com/Long-Blue-Light-Strip-Adhesive/dp/B00JR3UXXK/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418966064&sr=1-9&keywords=pc+case+light
Citric acid is in the bulk spices section at whole foods.
Sodium sulfite is available as a darkroom photography chemical. http://www.amazon.com/Kodak-Hypo-Clearing-TM-gal/dp/B00009R7BB
I wouldn't recommend it, while i'm sure it could be done the results won't be that good. Save a bit of money and find a Paterson Universal tank and reel for $30 or probably less if you hunt on eBay, it will save you so much hassle and let you focus on getting the developing part right rather than worrying about having the equipment screw up your film.
As i always say with these things, when testing new equipment or techniques that could ruin your film DO NOT test them on film you have important or wanted shots on, shoot a test roll and develop that.
Lightproof bag, $30 amazon Or you could use your bathroom if there’s no windows and stick a wet towel under the door.
Dev tank, $30 on ebay
You’ll need chemistry (best source, bhphoto.com) look around in your city, some photography shops stock some. Ilford, cinestill, kodak. You’ll need a developer, stop bath and a fixer. Probably the most cost consuming thing in your kit. About $60-70
a film retriever
a pair of scissors
something to hang the film up(just use a coat hanger from a hook in the ceiling or your shower frame)
PhotoFlo, you dont need it but it helps take off the water stains.
P.S. Check around for photography clubs at universities in your town. I found a club at my university and they have a darkroom and I pay $20/year for unlimited b&w dev. No supplies needed. Just time.
Since you didn't specify, I'm assuming color development. You'll need the following. I've linked some items to amazon for reference, but do your own shopping as these are likely not the best prices.