Reddit mentions: The best decking & fencing products

>That's a gorgeous fence

My wife would digress, she says the curve isn't centered. 2 flats on one side, 3 on the other.

>I am an idiot

C'mon you run trivia nights, I've seen you post here plenty. There are true idiots on this sub, and you're not one of them (IMHO)

>don't know if I could actually do that.

Don't know until you try. I didn't know until I tried, but I had some fencebuilding experience when my family still had ranches (mostly the old men yelling at me to carry wood, sand, nail, no cutting)

This is how I did it. Maybe I can lend a hand, I dunno. You'd have to entertain my wife and kids and maybe feed us or something. Maybe you could do the same for us sometime.

Tools: (mostly cheap harbor freight)

• Miter box saw. This let's you cut fairly precise angles.
  
• Jig Saw. For finishing the curve on top.
  
• Drill. For putting things together
  
• Hammer Drill. For drilling in cement anchors (Mine is freestanding, not attached to the fence or house)
  
• String, for making that swooshy curve.
  
  I started off by measuring. Once I had my measurements in, I took a long hard look at my neighbors fence (we have that picture) and copied the framing. I scaled it for my entryway.
  
  Once I had the basic design down, I drilled in my post cement anchors. I used 4 of these Simpson Strong Tie Fence Anchors. Even after a year, the fence is still as strong as the day I made it.
  
  After I had my posts up, I put the J screw hinge onto the posts and connected some cross members so the posts would shore up against each other.
  
  I took what would become my gate frame, and put the other half of the j screw hinge in. Then I did one final measure now that I knew how much space the hinges took up.
  
  Pulled the 4x4's off the hinge post, and built out the rest of my frame. I made sure to leave plenty of room at the bottom for the gate to swing freely. After the frames were complete, I re-hung them on the J hooks.
  
  Once the frames were up, I began skinning them. I laid a 4x4 at the bottom to give myself spacing (Didn't want the skin scraping) and put up fenceboard. Throughout this entire process, I used deck screws with the star bit. These bits don't slip, and the screws are coated to sort of self lubricate themselves through the wood.
  
  After all the skin was up, I tied a string to where I thought was center at the bottom of the fence. I stretched the string to the top of the fence and tied a crayon to it (just didn't have a pencil) The string acts like a giant compass, and let me make a nice even arc.
  
  Finally, I took a hand held jig saw and sawed along the line at the top making that nice curve.
  
  Only took me a day to knock it out.
  
  

Food and water typically goes in a covered area of the run. Only way to keep rodents out of it is to only feed them a day's worth of food at a time. This prevents waste as well.

Chickens will go in every night. If the run is fully secure (2"x4" welded wire, chain link, or other strong wire, not chicken wire), then you don't need a door. If the run is open on the or is otherwise not fully secure, then you do need a door that can latch. They could probably figure out a swinging door, but so can a predator. Unless you're in a very cold area, just leave it as an open hole if your run is going to be 100% enclosed.

As for cover for the run, it depends on the size and how you're building it. 1/4" or 1/2" hardware cloth is the best if they're going to be roosting somewhere that a raccoon could reach. Chain link or 2"x4" welded wire is sufficient for the most of the run. 50' 1/2", 50' 1/4"

I free range my birds, so I don't really do much coop cleaning. Laying down fresh hay after a rain in the uncovered portion of my coop is about all they get. You probably want to replace the substrate when it's dirty... People love walk-in coops for that purpose.

I feel better about the 1/2" rod if it goes all the way through, but 1/2" doesn't sound particularly rigid.

What I would do is make the 1" tubing (below the 1/2" rod) flush with the bottom board, so that the 1" tubing can't flex under load. I don't like any give, flex of sway. Notice how it's harder to do a handstand on carpet or any surface with give, versus a hard floor?

I've been thinking about making something like this but I want it to break down for easier transport. I was thinking about something close to what you have but with the down tube (1/2" rod in your build) sleeved at the base inside a slightly larger tube and secured with a pin, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufacturing-25080-CURT-Safety/dp/B001GN3H5A But the fit needs to be tight, so I might need set screws. Something that looks like this at the base. https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Square-Component-Terminal-Railing/dp/B00VS60MYO/

I'd probable use a thin-wall 1" box tubing for the whole thing, screwed into a 2' x 3' x 3/4" plywood. Under the hand supports (at top) I'd weld a metal plate slightly smaller than the wood hand grips with shallow screws up from the bottom. Id' make the metal base one piece, versus two.

you could get an automatic coop door:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TONTHRG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We have a coop run that is highly secured, and a main coop that is also secured. We close the coop run manually, and the main coop house closes automatically. All it took was closing the girls in the main coop run then letting themselves get locked out overnight a few times for them to learn to get in the house. Now we have gone down after dark more than once and all the girls are in the house and the door closed.

you would need to secure the main run area better to use our approach though. Our run is enclosed on all sides (including bottom) with 1/2" hardware cloth. Right next to the main house door (where the girls tend to sit if they get locked out) is #8 mesh. All mesh is secured between pieces of cedar framing with screws running through the cedar and the mesh.

We use the slide type doors which I feel are more secure than other options. one I made myself with diamond plate aluminum (if you can get flat aluminum I recommend it) that slides between rails of flat bar aluminum that have a gap created by washers. You can also buy a very similar design if you want to:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018KIVUC0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The biggest thing you need to do to secure your coop/run area is enclose the entire thing in hardware cloth. It needs to be the small 1/2" hardware cloth like here: https://www.amazon.com/Hardware-Galvanized-Chicken-Supports-Poultry/dp/B015PD9F52/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1499439834&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hardware+cloth&psc=1.

When I say enclose, I mean fully enclose on all sides including top and bottom. The cloth must be screwed/anchored in place (not just stapled). If you use larger cloth then animals such as racoons can reach through and grab the chickens. You should include the house in the enclosure. If you do not secure the bottom then they will just dig under and in.

I've had animals try and fail to get into my coop. I came out one day to find blood all over one side of the coop where an animal had tried to scratch its way in and lost claws. I also have come out to find that animals had tried to dig under the coop only to find hardware cloth there as well. you MAY be able to get away with just putting a hardware cloth skirt a few feet out from the coop but I prefer to just have the floor be hardware cloth.

Finally, all latches that allow us to get into the coop are safety latches since racoons can figure out normal latches. we mostly use hook and eyes like these (I use stainless though): https://www.amazon.com/Zinc-Plated-Wire-Safety-4-Pack/dp/B01LYNKFIL/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499440049&sr=1-1&keywords=hook+and+eye+safety+latch

Though our main coop door does have this sort of latch (which we intend to add a padlock to if there are signs of animals getting in through it): https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-National-Hardware-CD1271-Sliding/dp/B009YNW3QS/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499440093&sr=1-12&keywords=gate+latch+lock

It's not available right now, but I bought this from Amazon. It was less than half the price of Home Despot, and with free shipping, it worked out well. It's super sturdy, and good for keeping out predators.

The question you might ask, is how long to you want it to last? Raw untreated pine, sitting on the soil, is going to start rotting from the first minute it gets hit with a sprinkler or rain.

If this is going to be your forever mobile coop, you need to go back to the drawing board, unfortunately. Your base needs to be much more robust, and it shouldn't rot, rust, or get eaten by bugs. I'm going to suggest aluminum channel:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Crown-Bolt-3-4-in-W-x-9-16-in-H-x-96-in-L-Aluminum-C-Channel-with-1-16-in-Thick-56870/100338033

$11 for 8 feet. Resists bending against the channel. Very lightweight. Easy to cut. Will never rust. OK, it'll oxidize, but not enough to worry about.

For the wheels, get six of them. One on each corner, and two in the center. These would float over your yard:

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-solid-rubber-tire-42427.html

or get some swivel plate castors:

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-Heavy-Duty-Steel-Swivel-Caster-Black-Nylon-Wheel-Large-Top-Plate-NEW/32239532215.html?spm=2114.01010208.3.226.0wokOf&ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_7,searchweb201602_1_10057_10056_10037_10055_10049_301_10059_10058_10032_10017_405_404_106_10040_105_104_10060_103_10061_102_412,searchweb201603_8&btsid=bc8dcd0b-9e8f-4fcc-babd-12da1185ce7f

The door and the wire are going to be something to think about. Chicken wire is flimsy, lightweight, and cheap. It is hard to make it look professional, because you have to keep it stretched tight all the time. Hardware cloth is a far better product:

https://www.amazon.com/Windscreen4less-19-Gauge-2-Inch-Mesh-Galvanized-Hardware/dp/B00VWA1X08/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1469766180&sr=1-3&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A7023327011

PM me if you get as far as the door.

Good luck, buddy. You've got a job ahead of you.

Long story short (sorry, not really), if $2/baluster is within your budget, then black-coated round ALUMINUM 26-inchers are there for the taking. I'm estimating that you'll need 170 for your fifty feet, give or take. Steel versions may also be available for less money - or more money, depending - but those are typically not ideally suited for exterior use...

https://www.amazon.com/Deckorators-Aluminum-26-Balusters-DB52613/dp/B01BUAXYP6

Home Depot, Lowe's & Menard's should have similar buys. Take a close look at the reviewer images and you'll see that some utilized decorative mounts and some didn't. They're NOT required...

Now, with a Tee at the top, the vertical member does the lion's share of the work. If someone sits on the section, it's literally the joist that carries the load. With the handrail that runs flat across the top length of that "joist,", the railing becomes more dimensionally stable, with the horizontal and vertical members keeping each other in check. And everything below is basically there for aesthetics...

Essentially, the "joist" of the Tee is bored to accept a baluster at 1-inch depth, the bottom post-to-post runner is bored to accept a baluster at 1/2in depth. All in alignment, of course. The runner is mounted at a distance 1-inch shy of the baluster length from the bottom of the Tee. Then each baluster is pushed up into the "joist" and dropped into place in the runner. Carefully add a little construction adhesive into those runner bores before dropping each baluster into place and those components will NOT come apart without some effort!

If using brackets to hang each section from post-to-post, and if using construction adhesive to bond the handrail to the "joist," then the visible use of fasteners can be practically reduced to almost nothing...

Hope this helps, again!

Edit #1: From that Amazon link, the third reviewer's sectional construction is basically what I was trying to describe assembled...

Edit #2: If using brackets, then everything can be easily dropped into place with the balusters sandwiched into position. Therefore, the "joist" bore can be 1/2-inch deep, just like the runner bore, and construction adhesive won't be needed at all...

Copied from the album:

>Fantastic little light package. The reason I particularly like this kit is because the the flashlight houses its own charging circuit, so you just plug Micro USB in and you can charge it on the fly (off a phone charger), no need for something like a NiteCore charger.

>The overall size of this thing is tiny for how much light it puts out. It has three settings, with memory for the last one used when turned on, from 'blinding' to 'good enough' to 'decidedly dim, but bright enough to not trip over things'. I set it to the middle one. While it has a strobe mode, it's quite difficult to activate accidentally --requiring repeated rapid presses -- which is great for Nerf. I did have to pad the mount with a rubber band, as the flashlight is a smidge under the 1" diameter for the mount. That's fine, though, as it protects the finish of the flashlight from metal-on-metal contact. A polymer mount would be significantly lighter, and I might look to see if one is out there.

>The parts of this kit are as follows.:

>MagPul 5-slot MOE rail

>Off-set 1" Flashlight Picatinny Mount

>JetBeam EC-R16

.223 are going to be pretty hard to pan lube no matter what because of the small size mixed with the length. You could dip the bullets into liquid lube, but doing that is pretty slow and not really something you will want to to with bullets you will shoot mainly in bulk.

Another option would be use some small wire strung across the pan to form a grid pattern, drop the boolits in nose up to each square before pouring lube into the pan. Along the same lines as that, a baking cooing rack or some hardware cloth should work great and be easier than wire.

That said, is there a reason that you don't want to powder coat the .223 bullets?

So what you are saying is that I's want to wrap and secure it to the coop: http://www.amazon.com/Mat-Midwest-308239A-48-Inch---50-Foot/dp/B0009H53AQ/ref=sr_1_3/180-9608503-3339424?ie=UTF8&qid=1398795884&sr=8-3&keywords=hardware+cloth+1+4

Would I have to secure it top to bottom or could I get by with just wrapping the bottom of the coop? Thank you so much for the help.

So something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Mat-Midwest-308200B-36-Inch---50-Foot/dp/B0009H53L0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398448326&sr=8-1&keywords=hardware+cloth

Does anyone have experience cutting hardware cloth like this? What would be the best way to fasten it?

My gates are all wood with a correctly built Z frame. The hinges are just off the shelf strap hinges. I really like ring latches.

However, after someone on another thread suggested adjust-a-gate, I had a look and I think that's pretty good stuff!

I've looked into this quite a bit and the best way I found (which may be overkill) is to get the following:

• vinyl coated steel cable LINK
  
• Swageless Fork Terminal LINK
  
• Eye Hooks at your mounting points that the terminals will connect to
  
• Optional Turnbuckles LINK
  
  The turnbuckles would really only be needed if you don't believe you could get the steel cable tight enough, but if you have a short span it shouldn't be an issue. If you plan to run the steel cable through each eye hook and only have the terminals at the ends, then the turnbuckle may be needed.
  
  EDIT:
  They also make much cleaner looking solutions where the terminals have a built-in turnbuckle like THIS and terminals that have a lag bolt already attached which would remove the need for eye hooks like THIS

Yes. Use the Magpul MOE rails. They're pretty cheap on amazon.

https://smile.amazon.com/Magpul-MAG406-BLK-Polymer-Section-5-Slot/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492103222&sr=8-1&keywords=magpul+moe+rail

Make sure you know if your handguard is mlok or moe.

Holy smokes, Batman!

That actually is a cool tuxedo

I like the color

it's actually my favorite color

[this is an item] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BWY7UQ/ref=wl_it_dp_v_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3MZKKTPS3LUTM&coliid=I3N6JD3OMB018I)

I have a Mossberg 590A1 (18" barrel / bead sight) with...

• Magpul Stock and Forend
  
  
• HiViz Fiber Optic Sight
  
  
• Magpul L2 MOE Rail Section
  
  
• Magpul Rail Light Mount (Left)
  
  Loaded with Federal Tactical Law Enforcement 8-pellet 00 buckshot. I'm very happy with it.
  
  Don't forget to practice frequently with whatever you end up choosing.

Some people use chicken wire.

Carpenter cloth is another popular solution.

Would something like this work if I sprayed it with Rustoleum? (Let me know what kind of spray paint to get.) I think the additional mesh would be 30" x 12" (x2) and 18" x 12" (x2). So I think a 10' roll would be enough, but please let me know if anyone can figure that out...

Nope, get the pax caps...
Prescott Plastics 10 Pack: 3/4 Inch Round Black Vinyl End Cap, Cover Rubber Flexible Tube Pipe Marine Safety Tip 0.75" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QVZ11PG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_PEKVDbQWN1QR4

Love my AR-9 pistol. Mine gun costed around $800.00. Palmetto State Armory makes fantastic products at a reasonable price to not have to question build quality. If you ever want to build yourself a pistol so the wife and you both AR-9s I recommend the below:

http://i.imgur.com/D4onaM8.jpg

• PSA 9MM 7.5" PISTOL LENGTH 6" LIGHTWEIGHT M-LOK UPPER - WITH HYBRID BCG AND CH – 7781971
  http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-9mm-7-5-pistol-length-6-lightweight-m-lok-upper-with-hybrid-bcg-and-ch.html
  
  
• PSA 9MM BILLET COMPLETE CLASSIC PISTOL LOWER - USES GLOCK®-STYLE MAGAZINES
  http://palmettostatearmory.com/review/product/list/id/23736
  
  
• Ozark Armament Rhino Tactical Green & Red Dot Sight
  https://www.amazon.com/Tactical-Rifles-Shotguns-Ozark-Armament/dp/B010OMQSR2
  
  
• Ozark Armament Picatinny Flip Up Backup Battle Sights
  https://www.amazon.com/Ozark-Armament-Picatinny-Flat-top-Co-Witness/dp/B01AISP1KW
  
  
• Glock Magazine Gen 4 Glock 9mm Luger 33-Round Polymer Black
  https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1006228190/glock-magazine-gen-4-glock-17-19-26-34-9mm-luger-33-round-polymer-black
  
  
• SHOCKWAVE BLADE PISTOL STABILIZER
  https://www.kakindustry.com/shockwave-black
  3/21/2017 ATF Letter (PDF) on allowing shouldering: https://www.sigsauer.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/atf-letter-march-21-2017.pdf
  
  
• Magpul MAG406-BLK MOE Polymer Rail Section, 5-Slot, Black
  https://www.amazon.com/Magpul-MAG406-BLK-Polymer-Section-5-Slot/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_200_lp_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3Z3PEQ2R635682GQ1XKM
  
  
• Magpul AFG2 Angled Forend Grip AR-15 Polymer
  https://www.midwayusa.com/product/2319453274/magpul-afg2-angled-forend-grip-ar-15-polymer
  

Those look like footing pads, not brake rotors from a car...

Basically, these. They keep the wood from directly contacting moisture and then rotting. Are they to code? Where is this house?

...

Actually, I just looked again. They look like brake rotors from a car acting as footing pads. Weird.

We faced this exact problem. Moved into a new home with a severe gopher problem. Fumigation was ineffective. We cleared the backyard out to bare earth and put hardware cloth in under our soil amendments and new sod.

In my research (UC Davis has a great right up here), there are no effective repellents for gophers. The only effective treatments are exclusion (putting in hardware cloth), poisoning and trapping. I went the trapping method and baited with peanut butter. We've been able to clear gophers out of the backyard and I'm working on hunting down the last (I think) gopher in the front.

One more note: don't waste your time with chicken wire. Gophers can chew through the wire and it'll rust away too quickly to help for long.

Dig a hole 2 feet deep (minimum), pour a footer using an 8" tube form, and use a post base. You can set the base and put the anchors into the concrete while it's still wet to avoid having to drill (just make sure you get it plumb using a torpedoes level). It'll run you all of fifty bucks. The EZ base is the most expensive part.

Something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Forest-Products-3-1-Post/dp/B0045LVHRA/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_14?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ENRF1V6W6F125PX1WVX

+

http://www.amazon.com/Woodway-Products-870-3212-3-Inch-Cedar/dp/B002BDTHNA/ref=sr_1_95?ie=UTF8&qid=1406508341&sr=8-95&keywords=fence+post+caps

Fill the buckets and then install brackets on top.

brackets on Amazon

I believe both the magpul AFG and VFG can mount to that handguard WITHOUT using rails... one of the perks. I know the VFG can for sure. I mount a flashlight on my handguard (I have the same one) and I use the tiny rail section and mount it on the side. Here is the rail I got: http://www.amazon.com/Magpul-MOE-Rail-Section-Black/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421023661&sr=8-1&keywords=moe+rail

Kinda like this, assuming the hole spacing is correct...


Magpul MAG406-BLK MOE Polymer Rail Section, 5-Slot, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_y0h0Db146TSVR

Get two of these kits:

https://www.amazon.com/Adjust-Gate-Steel-Building-openings/dp/B000AMQC7S

Works really well, and you will end up with a pair of gates that will never sag. You will need a pair of well anchored posts to attach them to, but you can handle that.

Yep, toss one of these on the side for the light, one in the bottom for the grip/bipod. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6yjtybJNE8QMW

They sell galvanized steel screen mesh that is suppose to be pet proof but in no more than two days a persistent bird can rip through it. I would make a frame that can go over the window with mesh like This! over a wooden frame like this !

Would this http://amzn.com/B003F6EMQO work?

Where can I find a rail with those dimensions?

Magpul 5 slot MOE rail section

Quick 3 minute install. costs about $6

https://imgur.com/a/4WI8ply

Get a roll of hardware cloth and cut a piece off to fit the exposed area. This stuff comes in handy for rodent proofing your house, too.

You can also have a piece cut for you at any hardware store.

Roll of hardware cloth