(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best dehumidifiers

Introduction

setup: - 80x80x180 tent - 600W Viparspectre - carbonfilter etc ;) - medium: coco perlite 70/30 - temp: around 18.5°C-22°C - rh: 50-70% - containers: 1 11l Liter plastic pot, 3 5-Gal/ 20l smart pots with about 15l medium - PH: 5.6 - ppm: about 650

So we are now entering week 5 i guess? Around 50 days. As u can see i had some major height problems but some late lst helps out a bit.
I also repositioned the carbon filter to the right so i can put that light higher. It is now not perfectly centered but i tilt it until the light spreads evenly.
I am sorry for some low quality photos but it gets hot and humid pretty fast in my room. But now let’s get to the babies

Problems:

Purple:
Was stunted pretty early and is super skinny now. She is also loosing some lower leaves but bud is developing pretty good for her overall health. She doesn’t look that good to me.

WhiteWiddow:
Well thought she would be way faster, like she was in the beginning. Now she ist he slowest? Not super happy about her but i increased her height using some books so she gets some light atleast. She is sitting in the right back so it’s totally crap with the light setup atm. Still having awesome stems and guess i can just put her under the main light when the first one gets chopped.

Moby Dick: A fucking monster now. So many budsites and leaves. She is pretty healthy but also loosing some leaves in the bottom. No LST needed for her she is spacing her colas up pretty good and i just let her go.

Critical: wow…awesome plant. She just exploded in height but some light lst to the main colas did an awesome job. I really like the way she grows now.

Questions

Overall they are pretty healthy, but i am not sure where to locate the problem of my girls.
I thought yellowing of the leaves would come from not enough nitrogen? But there are also some slight signs of nute burn i guess?
I didn’t increase my nutrients, just shifted the amount of bloom and gro. So i would get more nitrogen.

Also they start to drink fast i now consider buying a small watering system. But for now just have to adjust the watering table.

My Humidity is always pretty high(40-70%) while the temps are between 18.5 and 22C. I am concerned about but rot and other bad stuff so i defoliated them a bit. Well this didn’t change that much so i am not thinking about buying a small dehumidifier.
Or do u guys think i am fine since i added a second clip fan?



If u made that far thank u very much! I would love to spend more time with my plants but university :/
I would love to hear some insights of you and maybe u can confirm my nitrogen deficiency or nute burn :D

Have an awesome day guys :)

Cost Analysis

Tent Setup

$70 2' x 4' x 5' Mylar tent

• Holding up well, easy build. Is not 100% dark, light leaks outwards from spots along the zipper and pinholes but no light leak into the tent during dark. Perfect size for my light.
  
  
  $325 Lights: Horticulture Lighting Group 260 QB LED Kit
  
  
• I cannot say enough about these lights. I had to run them anywhere from 50-75% during veg to prevent light burn. Great coverage for a 2x4 tent. Nothing but praise 10/10 would buy again.
  
  
  Climate Control
  
  $100 ($90 + $10)4" Inline duct fan and Carbon Filter + Ducting/clamps from ACE
  
  
• This puppy can SUCK, I have to keep it on the lowest setting to prevent the pressure inside the tent from dropping (need to work on my passive intake next grow). Carbon filter works great. Lowers humidity in a pinch. It keeps my humidity at or below 50%, which is what it maxes out at after a watering.
  
  
  $21 Osculating Fan Purchased on a flash deal
  
  
• I have it elevated about 3-4 inches on a box. Running and osculating 24/7. It pushes air, not a jet engine though.
  
  Already on hand: Box Fan
  
  
• Had one from years ago. Sometimes I open the tent and blast this on high right on level with the buds just go shake out the leaves, gets a bit crowded in the scrog and I'd like to eliminate any humidity caught between leaves sticking together. Think you can scoop one from Walmart for like $15 bucks, $20 max. I also have room at the right edge of my tent where I normally keep the oscilating fan to drop this in and use it in a humidity pinch.
  
  $25 [Humidifier] (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sunbeam-Warm-Mist-Humidifier-SWM6000-BWM/32664862)
  
  
• This puppy does well. I use the first setting, usually can run 16+ hours on a full reservoir of H20. No filter which keeps cost down, just need to clean it one or twice a week with a brush for the hard water deposits. 5-10 minute process.
  
  $45 Dehumidifier
  
  
• This was a bit of a mistake purchase. I wanted to test and see if a small model offered on amazon (this looked to be one of the best for sub $50, and has the biggest holding tank out of them all) could put in any kind of noticeable work in a tent. What I noticed is that it will be able to roughly maintain humidity at times, after I run the exhaust fan to lower the levels. When the lights are out and the temperature drops, this thing has no chance. Go with a full size dehumidifier or rely on the dry Colorado air + passive intake + duct fan. I was struggling with humidity issues during the cold of the winter, now that I can have my windows open my ambient room humidity is usually 40% or below.
  
  $18 4" inline duct booster fan
  
  
• Also a mistake purchase. Does not move a lot of air. Had plans to use this for an airflow/passive (not) intake system but it's not worth the electricity cost to run this thing. I'd stay away.
  
  
  Meters (Ph, PPM, Soil, Temp and Humidity)
  
  $18 Hygrometer for Temp/Humidity
  
  
• Worth it to get the wireless monitor so you're not opening the tent all the time)
  
  $13 Ph Meter
  
  
• Great little Meter. Calibrated nicely and seems to be holding true. Details about storage below under the calibration Solution
  
  $12 TDS PPM meter
  
  
• Quick measurements, came with a little leather storage pouch. Can't recommend against it.
  
  $9 Soil Moisture, Light, Ph meter
  
  
• Does it's job well, reads soil Ph and moisture well and pretty instantaneously. I wouldn't recommend it for getting detailed light readings but it responds correctly.
  
  
  Ph Control and Calibration
  
  $9 Ph Control Kit
  
  $14 Ph Calibration solution
  
  
• For calibration/life of the tip:I store the tip in a bit of 7.0 solution that I pour into the cap. Good to have on hand for calibration.
  
  
  
  Plants / Growing Medium
  
  $80 Clones - $20 from dispensary. here's a link to the strain page and the clone page. Don't believe seeds are available.
  
  $8 for 6ct 5 gal Smart Pot knockoff
  
  
• Do their job, hold up well. I cut the handles off to make watering under the scrog easier.
  
  $40 - Soil: Two bags of Happy Frog purchased from the local grow store. Ocean forest was sitting around.
  
  $7 for 30ct Starter grow bags
  
  
• Do not recommend, breathe terribly, water stagnates even with modifications. Had to feed lightly and often, and really monitor dampness. Needed these for the outdoor garden anyways)
  
  $14 - Scrog net: I believe it was a 25 or a 50ft roll of 1"x1" plastic garden fencing from Home Depot.
  
  
• Unfortunately I can't find a link but it's pretty common. I cut out the middles to make them 2"x2" openings, 1x1 seems very difficult to work with and would block a lot of light.
  
  
  Nutrients
  
  $100: Cyco 1 Litre Bottles
  
  
• I have a local grow shop that I purchased a lot of these from. The 1 litre Cyco nutrient bottles ranged from $10-$18 and I have 7 different nutrients, call it $100
  
  
• Vegetative State: Grow A & B + Dr. Repair + Silica
  
  
• Flowering State: Bloom A & B + Potash Plus (+ Dr Repair and Silica every other feeding)
  
  $20: Key To Life - Uptake
  
  
• Great for calcium uptake. Was told that this could basically replace calmag.
  
  $45 Cyco Grow XL Super Phosphoric Acid
  
  
• Definitely an 'extra', not cheap for 100ml but I think the potential yield improvement from this phosphorous bomb will cover that cost, especially over 3-4 grows which I expect to get out of the bottle. Also states it helps with Fe, N and K uptake.
  
  
  
  Miscelaneous Stuff:
  
  $15 - random stuff from Walmart, etc.
  
• Eyedroppers, duct tape, zip ties
  
  $6 Spray Bottles
  
  
• Did not use these much, only very early during transplanting
  
  
  
  So to total that all out we're looking just over $1000 that I spent.
  
  
• Could have kept it under $950 if I had not purchased the small duct fan or dehumidifier.
  
• Also: Soil and nutrients for $205. Could work that down to under $150 by dropping a couple unnecessary yet desirable nutrients.
  
  
  

So I did a similar size cooler that's working fairly well. I'm using two controllers similar to the Inkbird, one for temp and one for RH, but DARNIT (pardon the language :-), mine is only either humidifier or dehumidifier mode; I can't run both! Usually that's not a problem, as the meat's usually giving up water and I want to run the dehumidifier, but the thing can overshoot as it's not an autotuning/learning PID. Also, you get a "dueling temp/RH" thing where the fridge cooling kicks on, temp drops, the RH changes, so the humidity sensor triggers, etc. That usually converges to a stable state, but requires some fiddling with your high/low set points on both temp and RH controllers, plus the other params. Sorry for going on, but even with the dual controller Inkbird (which I'm now going to buy - thanks for the info!), this is something you'll be dealing with a bit. Note that your unit has a water tray (I looked up the manual - it's a CWC-3200 right?), "to receive condensation drained from the interior", so when your cooling kicks in it'll be dehumidifying too. AND if it's bringing in outside air, it'll be mixing that RH in. So, good thing you'll be running both 'sides' of RH control.

I can suggest a dehumidifier that I like just fine. Everybody seems to get the odd teardroppy thing; I got this one about a month ago, which is more compact (I think) for $40 and love it. Suddenly now there're a ton like it for $35 or so, and now I see this one for $30. For a humidifier, I got one of these ultrasonic/wick things, and opened it up and am modifying the switch with a dab of solder to be "always on" (it's momentary and goes auto-off when it runs out of water), but again my controller is either/or, so I've not been using it yet. However, apparently the little $10 ultrasonic things like this just set in a reservoir of your choice are a no-brainer.

You'll want a set of S-hooks. I find the smaller the better as you've got limited vertical space. You'll want to think about how you're going to hang them in the cooler - those wine racks are going to be a bit of a PITA as you're limited to the bottom center of each bottle-holding wire and then the crossbars.

Best of luck! Andrew

Hoping this tagged the OP correctly. Going to IM him as well since this is time sensitive stuff and I hope I am responding in time, wish I had read the thread earlier. Let me know if I can help in anyway. Read below for my... ideas :P

Something you MIGHT try is to take the cards and do some... tests. Over the years I have "entertained" this terrifying prospect, and I have a few things on my list of "things that might help/fix cards. I have NOT tried either of the ideas listed below, and they MIGHT cause more damage than they repair, I honestly do not know. In theory #1 SHOULD help a lot, but again these ideas/advice are offered with the caveat that I take no legal responsibility for the outcome. If you try either of these let me know how they go.

Edit: Also, the steel clamp idea in theory is ok, but I wouldn't leave cards in it too long as the cards MIGHT dry and stick actually on the steel. No idea how likely this is, but "fair warning". I think no matter what you will have to take some risks on what you are dealing with.

1. This idea would only work for nonfoils and maybe lightly wet/damaged foils. If you can get access to a chamber vacuum sealer (about a thousand dollar piece of lab/kitchen equipment but not insane to find at college labs or decent kitchens). Think giant overpowered seal a meal (seriously like best seal a meal is orders of magnitude weaker) that pulls a vacuum at like 1/1000th atmosphere. It will boil water at room temp with ease. My thought is, if you take the cards while wet (letting them dry I think could increase the damage to the paper: cause ridges, ripples, bubbling, etc) you might be able to pull a heavy vacuum for a few seconds to effectively rip the water out of your cardboard. The second thing (or rather the "next level") I would try if I had access to one of these and water damaged cards is to take two small hunks of metal (smooth, thick enough to be ridgid, and small enough to fit into the vacuum chamber. Take them, put the card between them, use a clamp to "press" the card(s) between the steel. Clamp HARD, then pull a vacuum to remove the water while the paper is being "held together" by the clamped steel. You might try the same thing with a seal a meal, but they operate differently (both lower powered, and also different mechanism for pulling the vacuum) and I doubt the basic seal a meal would do much tbh.
   
   
2. This one is just a way to assist the drying process rather than something "special" like the first idea. You might still consider using a couple of sheets of steel from Lowes for "squeezing" the moisture out, and keeping the card integrity better than say a book or some other none ridgid material. Anyways, use Chemical Dehumidifier (and AC/dehumidifiers will help as well as they dry out the air. Window ACs in particular remove a lot of moisture.) Link below to assist your googling/search. The smaller the area, the more effect I would expect a chemical Dehumidifier to have (no science on this one, just a assumption). I sometimes use these to unbend foils since a lot of times the warping in foils is just the card absorbing moisture unevenly.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Jet-Chemical-01-1015-Dry-Dehumidifier/dp/B002DZMJ90

1. Clothing: The first rule is never to wear anything cotton unless it's a really casual hike in perfect weather. Cotton just gets wet and stays wet, leaving you cold and miserable, whether it's moisture from sweat or rain or falling in a creek. The next thing to remember after 'no cotton' is 'layers'. Having layers of clothing lets you control your temperature as you go. The best material for inner layers in general is wool, from merino wool underwear and t-shirts to wool jerseys (I wear a long sleeve wool cycling jersey as a second layer). Merino wool is comfortable, dries quickly, insulates when wet, and doesn't stink even after days of wear. Synthetics have all of these properties except for the last - they quickly pick up an ungodly stink as you sweat in them. The two downsides to wool are that it's expensive and is fairly easily damaged by abrasion as well as by moths, and by careless washing. But it's worth it. Beyond the wool underlayer and socks, a pair of lightweight synthetic hiking pants are good. Jeans = cotton = bad idea. A fleece jacket will keep you warm when the temperature drops, and finally you'll want a shell of some sort. If you are on a tight budget and aren't planning on being out in a lot of rain, a nylon jacket will do (with maybe a cheap poncho for rain), or if you have more money to spend, something waterproof breathable is great (GoreTex, Toray, etc). A broad brimmed hat is also a good idea.
   
   
2. Boots: Go to a decent outdoors shop and get some advice and try on some boots. The right boots for you depend on your feet. Internet advice will be of little use. However, be aware that ankle support actually comes from your muscles - many people hike in running shoes. Boots are useful becuase they are tough and good ones will be waterproof, but they won't necessarily prevent a sprained ankle.
   
   
3. Knife 'for precaution'? Not sure what you mean by this. Knives are useful for cutting up cheese/salami/snacks, shaving wood for kindling, and other tasks like that. They are not useful for 'protection' if that is what you were implying. You don't need anything with a blade longer than a 2-3". A simple Victorinox Bantam is a good example of a practical knife. The stainless steel blade won't hold as sharp of an edge as a carbon steel knife, but is rust proof and generally easy to look after.
   
   
4. Flashlight, whistle, cellphone, some rope, duct-tape, moleskin for blisters, sunscreen, chapstick, baby wipes, extra water bottles, chlorine tablets for water, gloves, spare socks, sunglasses, extra nylon straps. You say you have magnesium fire starter, but do you know how to start a fire with it?

I wear Bellevilles www.amazon.com/Belleville-Tactical-Research-Lightweight-Mountain/dp/B00M08D1XI. They're unbelievably comfortable, offer good ankle support, and a whole lot of padding. Great on rough terrain. Also adds to the milsim looks nicely

This is the one you want. It's expensive but very energy efficient, so cheap to run. It also works very well. It seems like a boring purchase but it will improve your living environment quite substantially.

As another chap has said, run it with your laundry in the smallest possible room with doors and windows shut.

You can use a cheap peltier dehumidifier in a space like that, you just need to empty it once a day. similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Dehumidifier-Compact-Portable-Dehumidifier-Moisture/dp/B077JM329H/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1541142808&sr=8-5&keywords=mini+dehumidifier#customerReviews but i'm not vetting for this particulate brand or model.

As for airflow, circulation is good, but also, fresh air exchange is important. Just do the lid thing, like suggested above.

Nice. Good luck!



FWIW, this damp rid is better than the ‘bucket’ version. At least in my experience


https://www.amazon.com/WM-Barr-Moisture-Absorber-Dmp/dp/B07NP9KGK9/ref=asc_df_B07NP9KGK9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343242928955&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10489609410374122704&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008162&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-761573327925&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=67045468537&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=343242928955&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10489609410374122704&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008162&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-761573327925

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZ5BSBY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=RG9THV8D7XRY&coliid=I2EPD0X80UZK7S

I found that the other day when Amazon had it as a goldbox deal. It's one of the more aesthetically pleasing models and it seems to have pretty good reviews.

It's an older Liberty Fatboy. They've since updated their locking mechanism, the newer models are a bit nicer.

I have their outlet kit and an electric dehumidifier plugged in in addition to those lights.

That dehumidifier has been awesome. I have two silica canisters in there than you can "recharge" by baking them in an oven and they have yet needed to recharge after installing that dehumidifier.

Sounds like you need a compact desiccant dehumidifier. If your place gets humid for part of the year, one of these makes all the difference. Prevents mold, too.

I've been using that same model for 6 years and it has saved my sanity. The place I lived in at that time would grow mold spots behind picture frames and the headboard of the bed, basically anything that was close to an outside wall. Bought it and ran it for a few hours daily when the weather got wet, and it made things more comfortable while also preventing mold.

I kept the dehumidifier when we got a new place, and it keeps everything comfortable when the weather gets damp. There's nothing worse than waking up feeling icky because of humidity, especially in the winter.

Edit: update - I initially linked the wrong model. The one I own has an ionizer

portable, rechargable dehumidifiers. I have 2 per safe. They're not really "chargeable", they just use beads that absorb heat. You plug them in to heat them up so they release whatever moisture they've absorbed. It's best if you "recharge" them in a different room though, since if you charge them in the same room as the safe all you do is re-introduce the moisture back into the room.

https://www.amazon.ca/Ivation-Renewable-Rechargeable-Wireless-Dehumidifier/dp/B00KO3E9A0

I'm facing the same problem atm. I actually put an electric blanket in the bottom of my tent and it seems to be working pretty well so far. Not entirely sure how safe it is though but i figure as long as i don't get any water on it, it should be fine.

To lower the humidity I'm using these which are cheap and work pretty well.

To add some more context, you are basically talking about a dehumidifier. These have been around as a commercial appliance for decades and you can bet that the designs are quite well optimized at this point. Your basic calcs should back that idea up.

As one example of a small but efficient unit meant for home use,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEZA018
This is rated to remove (or produce depending on your view point) a maximum of about 33 liters of water per day. That will of course depend on the humidity and temperature of its surroundings, approaching zero in arid locales. The average human needs about 2 liters of water a day to survive.

To accomplish this, it requires 720 Watts of power (or about 1 horsepower). This is partially to run fans to provide the massive throughput of air volume I mentioned earlier, and partially to run a compressor for a refrigeration system. Adding refrigeration means you can reduce your 'exhaust' temperature and extract essentially all of the water present in the air.

So again, this is something that is definitely possible, but requires on the order of 10-100W of power. Workable for a stationary unit plugged into the wall, borderline feasible for stationary 'off the grid' applications, and all but impossible for portable units.

The first rule of invention: "Thermodynamics is a cruel mistress".

If you have come to this subreddit late like me then I can recommend the keystone 70 pint dehumidifier for your somewhat flooded basement. Its a frickin champ.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEZA018/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You'll also need a canoe and a viking hat. Will leave that to you.

i use those and even bought charcoal, i am looking into buying another humidifier, i have the aera max 100 and i just changed the filter after 4 months. i should've changed it faster! that thing was gray AF. i moved it to the living room and now will run it in there. when I get a second I will run it in the bedroom too. I live near a dollar tree so i often walk over and buy the damprids and change them out often.

i do clean the walls and hats with white vinegar. the guitar and dresser were in the living room so it wasnt dark but sometimes the windows are foggy so i make sure to open them when i get home. the hats were in a box in the closet and i look through them and whipe down what needs to be whiped down. kind of worried about photography gear so in my bag i do keep a damprid and a charcoal thing too.

i kind of want to change the blinds to drapes because those will be easier to clean than the blades.

Here are the products ive bought:

Activated Charcoal Bamboo Deodorizer

Aera Max 100 filters: replacement filters

DampRid FG90 with replacement bags, although these tend to fill with water really fast.

I try to leave my closet doors open and a fan in there to create circulation.

Buy a tiny dehumidifier like this one amazing how much water this pulls out of my tiny bathroom.

And bleach. The gel or foam bleach that sits in one spot for ten minutes before you scrub.

Ah ok, I see. I run a dehumidifier in my crawlspace year-round. It doesn't use that much extra power, maybe a couple dollars more per month on my bill. This unit, to be exact. It works great, however it does put out heat so while you'd be lowering the humidity in your apartment during the summer you'd also be raising the indoor temperature.

On my keezer I built this last summer, I used outdoor deck stain on my wood collar. Working awesome so far.

I also put one of these in both my keezer and fermentation fridge: http://www.amazon.com/Barr-FG90-DampRid-Super-System/dp/B002C4UN4U/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1381412132&sr=8-6&keywords=damprid

You could try one of the mini dehumidifiers- http://www.amazon.com/Gurin-DHMD-110-Renewable-Wireless-Dehumidifier/dp/B00ANX1PAI/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1413721285&sr=8-11&keywords=mini+dehumidifier. I keep one of these in Boo's enclosure at night. Or, on days that are VERY humid (like they are at times in Connecticut) I put a mini electric dehumidifier in the corner of her enclosure- http://www.amazon.com/Ivation-DehumMini-Small-Size-Thermo-Electric-Dehumidifier/dp/B00GZ6OI8S/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1413721285&sr=8-4&keywords=mini+dehumidifier. These are very quiet and I had to use it earlier in the week when the humidity was at 90 (no lie- uggghhh). It did help with it. It's worth a try.

I have this one. It also has a built in sensor but I found that it read the humidity as much higher than it actually is (according to my other sensors, at least) and therefore it wanted to run all the time. I now have it plugged into a smart plug which uses an automation triggered by Abode's temperature/light/humidity sensor. I've found this has the dehumidifier run anywhere from 2-5 times a day which uses less electricity than before and still maintains the humidity level I'm looking for. (Sorry for the information overload!)

Thanks for the advice guys! This is the one I'm looking at
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FYC469O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_WYhxybGHFH9TM

There are a few things here that are preliminary, and a few proactive.

This could be caused by a medication you are taking or diet, review that with your doctor (alcohol, AD medication..). Some people here suggested that you get a plastic mattress protector, I disagree. You want something that will breath, opt for a heavy (thick) cotton/blended mattress protector that will keep you isolated from the mattress but allow it to breath. Avoid synthetic fabrics, or clothing with prints (screen logos). Much like a plastic mattress protector, synthetics, and those plastic logos and prints on shirts will hold in moisture against your body. You need to breath. A bigger issue could be the mattress itself. Many foam mattresses cause sweating (check reviews to see if others report this issue).

The last thing I can offer is something I recently started doing for my feet. Order up high quality gym chalk from amazon (magnesium carbonate) , 91% alcohol, and a durable spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle. Fill the bottle 1/4 chalk (powder, not solid), 3/4 alcohol. I keep two of these, one in the bedroom, one where we store our shoes. Before putting socks on, I shake it, spray down my feet, and wave them around. The alcohol kills germs, dries fast, and leaves behind a thin layer of powder all over my feet. The other bottle is for when shoes or slippers come off, and they get sprayed internally. My shoes and feet have no stink and my socks stay dry. Part of the reason this works (as opposed to talc) is because the magnesium carbonate absorbs moisture into the crystal structure. Talc bonds moisture to the outside and eventually gets smeary. Annnywho...your problem...as others said, roll back those sheets in the morning, but I suggest just before you leave for the day (let them air a bit), spray down the bed and exposed sheets with the alcohol/chalk mix. Should help with odor and moisture.

Good luck!

^E Fixed mobile spelling issues.

^E^2 Another thing you can try is ordering a small room dehumidifier. Our apartment is 1st floor + finished basement which is where the bedroom and bath are. We keep a little guy like this inside both of those rooms to help with moisture in the air. At the very least, it adds a bit of white noise to the room too which helps us sleep. Your results may vary, but in the summer these units pull at least 8 oz of water out of the air daily. They are cheaply made though. Ours are the exact same unit with a different brand logo on them. The fan seems to blow in the wrong direction, there is a filter, but it filters the air at the outlet instead of the inlet, so the internals get dusty, and the inlet grille gets dusty. Accordingly, after a year, the unit makes a wicked buzzing sound for the first 2 minutes after you dump the tank before the fan settles into a non-resonant groove. This bugged the hell out of me so I disassembled one a few days ago. It's a cheap PC fan and it was loaded with dust. ...For $35...it's 3.0 star. We bought ours for like $10 less... 3.5 star.

Not really. I have one of these tiny dehumidifiers in my bathroom and it works pretty well, but probably 1/10th the capacity of a larger one. Only uses a couple pennies per day in electricity.

Like one of these guys? http://www.amazon.com/Gurin-DHMD-110-Renewable-Wireless-Dehumidifier/dp/B00ANX1PAI

Anyone have any thoughts on a dehumidifier like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Gurin-Renewable-Wireless-Mini-Dehumidifier/dp/B00ANX1PAI/ref=pd_sbs_hg_4

Since his camper is a fairly small, I imagine this might help absorb passively.

Essentially you just don't want high humidity swings, in your case with the lack of space and dehumidifer I would just increase the ventilation within the tent itself. Don't leave standing water in the tent, keep an eye on the humidity, and if it doesnt change you could grab a cheap dehumidifer just to bring it down a bit. this is the one I got and it would probably work just fine for a space of that size.

If you can't get a proper dehumidifier, even these cheap moisture traps go a long way to helping deal with damp and smells. You can get them most cheap shops, dollar stores etc or online as well it seems

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Interior-dehumidifier-Absorbs-damp-crystals/dp/B007JBIUSW

(Sorry for crap formatting, am on mobile)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJYH02U/ref=s9_acsd_omwf_hd_bw_bI6dnf_c2_x_2_t?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_r=6NGXQP89MNRWYNZZHTM1&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=be192b5f-33bd-4a0a-90b0-c63fafd4e8e5&pf_rd_i=267557011

The one I have is

Gurin DHMD-110 Renewable Wireless Dehumidifier, Mini https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANX1PAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aqWqyb2J9BQPT

The one they had is similar to this on amazon where there is a rotating drum with the desiccant and a small heater to recharge the saturated desiccant.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANX1PAI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Normally goes for $30, but there's lightning deals all the time that bring it down to ~$20. I just go to homebrewfinds.com every morning to find out about those things. (thanks /u/homebrewfinds!)

Odd, I copied the url from what I was looking at.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IJYH02U/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have similar problems in St. Louis, although mine seemed to be winter humidity more so than right now. I have a dehumidifier running in the basement at 55% and it's been doing a good job of keeping up without making my electric bill skyrocket. No signs of moisture down there. I also pushed dirt up against the foundation and sealed my gutters and roof where I suspected I has leaks and this has helped lower the humidity in my house and basement.

My house doesn't have exhaust fans, so I'll be installing one in the kitchen and the bathroom. I have all of the equipment bought, I've just been dreading doing the electrical. I haven't tried to get into the walls and ceiling yet since I bought the house last year. The old 1930's plaster makes it all a bit harder than current construction methods.

All in all though, if you are below 60% you shouldn't have mold growth but you might feel a little uncomfortable. A dehumidifier may help aid the A/C in removing extra moisture when it isn't running.