Reddit mentions: The best digital calipers
We found 332 Reddit comments discussing the best digital calipers. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 86 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Neiko 01407A Electronic Digital Caliper Stainless Steel Body with Large LCD Screen | 0 - 6 Inches | Inch/Fractions/Millimeter Conversion,Silver/Black
- [MULTI-FUNCTION]: This measuring tool has a quick-change button that changes between three measuring modes: inch, fraction, and millimeter to make conversion a snap during measurement.
- [PRECISION]: The electronic measurement range is 0” - 6” and 0 mm – 150 mm with a resolution of 0.0005” / 1/128” / 0.01 mm and an accuracy of 0.001” / 0.02 mm for precise readings in all your measurement needs.
- [QUALITY]: The body of the digital caliper is constructed using finely polished stainless steel with a knurled thumb roller and locking screw that ensures smooth sliding and accurate positioning when taking measurements.
- [VERSATILE]: Calibrate to measure inside, outside, depth and step with two sets of jaws and a probe as a vernier caliper.
- [LARGE SCREEN]: Each digital lcd caliper has an extra-large LCD screen for easy and clear readings for faster efficiency and accuracy on the job or at the worksite.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Silver/Black |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 6 inch |
Width | 1 Inches |
2. iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - IP54 Protection/Extreme Accuracy
Resolution: 0.0005"/0.01mm; Accuracy: 0.001" / 0.02mm; Range: 6"/150mmIP54 protection: Water drop and dust resistantUSB cable available separately.Meets DIN Standard 862; ISO certified manufacturing2 Years warranty
Specs:
Size | 0-6" |
Weight | 0.84 Pounds |
3. iGaging IP54 Electronic Digital Caliper 0-6" Display Inch/Metric/Fractions Stainless Steel Body
Easy read SUPER LARGE display (2-3/8"x7/8")IP54 - Splash water, oil and dust resistantHardened stainless steel bodyPrecision lapping finishRange: 0-6" Accuracy: 0.001" Repeatability: 0.0005" Resolution: 0.0005"/0.01mm/1/128"
Specs:
Height | 1.2 Inches |
Length | 9.7 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 6 to 7.9 Inches |
Weight | 0.112 Pounds |
Width | 3.6 Inches |
4. Mitutoyo 500-196-30 Advanced Onsite Sensor (AOS) Absolute Scale Digital Caliper, 0 to 6"/0 to 150mm Measuring Range, 0.0005"/0.01mm Resolution, LCD
- Measures 0 to 6" (0 to 150mm) in 0.0005" (0.01mm) increments for precision use
- Digital readout LCD shows inch or metric units for versatility when measuring
- Advanced onsite sensor (AOS) electromagnetic inductive sensor for resistance to dirt, oil, and water
- Measures inside, outside, depth, and step values for versatility. With thumb roller. Except 500-500-10, 500-501-10,500-502-10
- Includes protective case and SR44 silver oxide battery
Features:
Specs:
Color | Stainless Steel |
Height | 8.661417314 Inches |
Length | 3.93700787 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Full Size |
Weight | 0.3747858454 Pounds |
Width | 1.181102361 Inches |
5. VINCA DCLA-0605 Quality Electronic Digital Vernier Caliper Inch/Metric/Fractions Conversion 0-6 Inch/150 mm Stainless Steel Body Red/Black Extra Large LCD Screen Auto Off Featured Measuring Tool
Higher quality lower price stainless steel digital caliper with inch/metric/fraction conversion; Home DIY and professional use are both highly recommendedFine polished stainless steel and NEW processing of depthometer's groove give better looking, smooth sliding, and accurate resultMeasure Range: 0-...
Specs:
Color | BLACK-6 inch |
Height | 0.5 Inches |
Length | 9.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 6 inch |
Weight | 0.33 Pounds |
Width | 1.5 Inches |
6. Neiko 01408A Electronic Digital Caliper with Extra Large LCD Screen | 0 - 8 Inches | Inch/Fractions/Millimeter Conversion
THREE MEASURING MODES: one button quick change between three measuring modes: inch, fractions, millimeterPRECISION | ACCURACY: Measurement Range: 0 - 8” and 0 - 200mm; Resolution: 0.0005” / 1/128” / 0.01mm; Accuracy: 0.001” / 0.02mmSTAINLESS STEEL: finely polished stainless steel frame with ...
Specs:
Height | 1.06 Inches |
Length | 12.2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 8 inch |
Weight | 0.893 Pounds |
Width | 4.17 Inches |
7. Wixey WR510 Electronic Digital Readout Kit for Portable Planers
- Fits most portable planers
- Easy to install, calibrate, and use
- Displays Inches with fractions or millimeters
- Large easy to read display angled for easy viewing
Features:
Specs:
Color | Multi |
Height | 2.5 Inches |
Length | 4.3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.95 Pounds |
Width | 14.95 Inches |
8. Digital Caliper, Adoric 0-6" Calipers Measuring Tool - Electronic Micrometer Caliper with Large LCD Screen, Auto-Off Feature, Inch and Millimeter Conversion
- Precise measurement: Measurement range: 0 - 6''/ 0 - 150mm; Resolution: 0.01”/ 0.1mm; Accuracy: ±0.2mm/0.01”. Perfect and accurate caliper measuring tool for household/DIY measurement. Please choose stainless steel digital caliper for more accurate measuring
- 4 measuring modes: This digital caliper can be used to Measure inside and outside diameter, depth and step with two sets of jaws and a probe. Powered by battery, comes with a pre-installed battery and a spare battery
- Inch/mm conversion: One button quick switch between two units: inch and millimeter, definitely save your time. Made of rugged plastic carbon fiber composites, durable and portable
- Zero setting function: The smart design allows you to set zero with an easy touch of a button and start a new measurement at any point of the scale, ideal for differential measuring
- Large LCD screen & auto off: The large and easy-to-read LCD display helps you get precise results quickly and easily, auto shutdown for saving battery after 5 minutes if without operation
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 0.393700787 Inches |
Length | 11.023622036 Inches |
Size | 6" |
Weight | 80 Grams |
Width | 3.543307083 Inches |
9. Anytime Tools Disc Brake Rotor Caliper Digital Electronic Gauge Gage Micrometer 0-2.5"/0.0005"
Range: 0-2.5"3.5" jaw depth for larger rotorsReads in INCH / METRIC / FRACTIONSResolution: .0005" / .01mm / fractions 1/64"Direct inch/metric/fraction conversion
10. 6 Inch Imperial Digital Calipers with Fractions
Displays inches with fractions or millimetersLarge easy to read displayResolution 0.05mm, 0.001-inch, 1/64-inchOutside, inside, depth and step measurementsHardened stainless steel
Specs:
Color | Multi |
Height | 1.2 Inches |
Length | 9.75 Inches |
Size | 6 to 7.9 Inches |
Weight | 325 Grams |
Width | 3.6 Inches |
11. Mitutoyo Advanced Onsite Sensor (AOS) Absolute Scale Digital Caliper
- Measures 0 to 6" (0 to 150mm) in 0.0005" (0.01mm) increments for precision use
- Digital readout LCD shows inch or metric units for versatility when measuring
- Advanced onsite sensor (AOS) electromagnetic inductive sensor for resistance to dirt, oil, and water
- Measures inside, outside, depth, and step values for versatility
- Includes protective case and SR44 silver oxide battery
Features:
Specs:
Size | 6 to 7.9 Inches |
12. Clockwise Tools DCLR-0605 Electronic Digital Caliper Inch/Metric/Fractions Conversion IP54 Protection 0-6 Inch/150 mm Stainless Steel Body Super Large LCD Screen Auto Off Featured Measuring Tool
Higher quality and lower price; inch/metric/fractions conversion; Home DIY and professional use are highly recommendedFine polished stainless steel and NEW processing of depthometer's groove give better looking, smooth sliding, and accurate resultMeasure Range: 0-6 inches/150mm; Display: 3/4"x 2" (2...
Specs:
Color | Grey-6inch |
Height | 0.5 Inches |
Length | 9.25 Inches |
Size | 6 inch |
Weight | 0.33 Pounds |
Width | 1.5 Inches |
13. Hornady 050080 Digital Caliper
- Take Precise Measurements - having precision reloading tools and accessories such as the Hornady Digital Caliper measuring tool 050080 is ideal for accurately measuring case and bullet length, inside and outside diameters, primer pocket depth, overall cartridge length, and more
- Large, Easy to Read LCD Screen - this digital caliper is quick to setup, easy to use, and extremely accurate to 0.001 inch. This digital measurement tool has a automatic shutoff, is easy to zero and change between inches or millimeters. The measuring ruler reads up to 6 inches/160 millimeters
- Great Caliper Tool for Reloaders - Hornady digital calipers will ensure you have a properly measured case and cartridge for your next range day. The convenient storage case is perfect for storing the unit when not in use or for travel to take with you. Includes 1.55 Volt Silver Oxide Battery
- Easy to Operate - durable stainless steel digital caliper features quick repeat and measuring speed, easy to use adjustment wheel, and the knob at top of caliper can be tightened to lock down a measurement
- Hornady Reloading Equipment - Hornady offers a variety of measuring tools needed to get into the reloading zone and achieve better accuracy, reliable results, and having fun. Having a set of quality tools at your ammo reloading bench is crucial for an accurate shooter
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 10 Inches |
Number of items | 3 |
Release date | March 2010 |
Size | 6 to 7.9 Inches |
Weight | 0.76 Pounds |
Width | 3.5 Inches |
14. Neoteck 6 inch Digital Caliper and Feeler Gauge Set, Stainless Steel Electronic Vernier Caliper Fractions/Inch/Metric Conversion
- 【6 inch Stainless Steel Digital Caliper】 Measurement Ranging: 6"/150mm; Resolution: 0.0005"/ 1/128"/ 0.01mm; Accuracy: 0.001"/0.02mm; Also Come with A Feeler Gauge And Mini Screwdriver
- 【LCD Display, Three Modes Zero Setting】Extra Large LCD Screen for Easy and Clear Reading, Support Inch/ Metric/ Fraction Conversion;Zero Setting in Any Position
- 【Measurement Versatility】Measure Inside, Outside, Depth and Step with Two Sets of Jaws and the Probe
- 【Smart Sleep Mode】Automatic Shut-off After 5 Minutes of Inactivity to Save Battery Life and Remembers Position When Turned off
- 【32 Blades Steel Feeler Gauge, Dual Marked Metric and Imperial】0.0015 Inch/ 0.04 mm to 0.035 Inch/ 0.88 Mm, Constructed From Hardened Tempered Steel with A Lube Oil Coating to Prevent Pitting and Corrosion, Suitable for Measuring The Thickness of Tappet Clearances, Spark Plugs Gaps, Bearing Clearances, Piston Ring Gaps and Other Hard to Reach Places
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3.62 Inches |
Length | 1.02 Inches |
Size | 6 inch/150mm |
Weight | 0.7125 Pounds |
Width | 9.69 Inches |
15. SE 6" SAE and Metric Electric Digital Caliper - 784EC
Extra-large LCD display screenMeasures from 0.001 to 6" or 0.01 mm to 150 mmResolution: 0.0005”/0.01 mmMeasures inside and outsideRequires one LR44 battery (battery and replacement included)
Specs:
Height | 1.2 Inches |
Length | 9.8 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 11 Inches & Above |
Weight | 0.73 Pounds |
Width | 3.7 Inches |
16. iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper Inch/Metric/Fraction IP54 Protection Bonus: Depth Gauge Base
Resolution: 0.0005"/0.01mm/1/128" ; Accuracy: 0.001" / 0.02mm; Range: 6"/150mmIP54 protection: Water drop and dust resistantUSB cable available separately (SPC transfer Inch/mm decimal only).Meets DIN Standard 862; ISO certified manufacturing2 Years warranty
Specs:
Height | 3.59842519318 Inches |
Length | 5.99999999388 Inches |
Size | 0-6" w/Fractions |
Weight | 0.82 Pounds |
Width | 1.20078740035 Inches |
17. iGaging DigiMAG 6" Magnetic Remote Digital Readout
- Large, easy to read display shows inch, decimal, fractional and metric readings
- 2-in-1 Vertical and Horizontal Alloy Beam
Features:
Specs:
Size | 6 to 7.9 Inches |
18. Brown & Sharpe 00591007 3 Piece Digital Electronic Precision Tool Set with Shop-Cal Caliper
The micrometer has .0001” accuracy on outer diameter (OD) measurements, the caliper has .001” accuracy on outer diameter (OD) measurements and .0015” on inner diameter (ID) measurementsAbsolute and differential measuring systemLarge 1/4" display for readabilityInstant inch/metric conversion fo...
Specs:
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 6 to 7.9 Inches |
20. Digi-Pas DWL2000XY 2-Axis Digital Machinist Level & Inclinometer 0.002”/ft (0.2mm/M) 6 Inch
Digi-Pas 2-AXIS Machinist Level & Inclinometer replaces Old-fashioned Spirit Vial Levels. Tedious repetition of checking 'bubble' position between tiny graduation lines is NOW THINGS OF THE PASTINSTANTLY read both X&Y axis level status (Digital & Graphic Animation) while SIMULTANEOUSLY adjusting mac...
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 8 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 6 to 7.9 Inches |
Weight | 2.5132697868 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on digital calipers
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where digital calipers are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Chamfer/deburr - the two you have listed fit on a case prep machine that I don't see listed. One like this, made by every manufacturer, is all that is needed https://www.midwayusa.com/product/465641/rcbs-chamfer-and-deburring-tool-17-to-60-caliber or https://www.midwayusa.com/product/171844/hornady-deluxe-4-blade-chamfer-and-deburring-tool
For a bench priming tool, this one https://www.midwayusa.com/product/457599/rcbs-automatic-bench-priming-tool is more highly reviewed, and the one I use now. First 15 yrs I primed on the RockChucker press. Or get a hand-primer as suggested. Got extra space on your bench, get it. Wanna watch TV and prime, get a hand tool. Up to you really.
And get the shorter handle for the press https://www.midwayusa.com/product/528383/forster-co-ax-single-stage-press-short-handle , much easier to work with. I do 7mag, .270, 30-06, and haven't felt the need for the unwieldly standard longer handle yet.
This guy makes a much better set of jaws for the press. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BpFD7NbvL8 . Worth it? Take Forsters jaws on/off a few times. Then you'll say YUP. I'm honestly surprised Forster hasn't bought this guy out or designed their own like this.
One thing I have found with the Forster press vs O-ring presses, is that the Forster forces you to sit more in front of it, to facilitate 2 handed operation, and thus slightly farther away from the workbench. The O-ring style presses are more open to your left hand placing and picking up cases. Lefties gotta work at it with O-ring presses. I managed to angle my press slightly on my bench to minimize this realization.
As u/unrulywind mentioned, a decapping die is nice to have so you can remove the primer, clean the case, then get to work without getting any grit into your dies, my choice https://www.midwayusa.com/product/211699/hornady-universal-depriming-and-decapping-die
As for neck sizing dies, they are something you could get later if you find a need for it. I'd wait until you are more familiar with the process, and then go with a bushing bump neck die like Forster makes https://www.forsterproducts.com/product/bushing-bump-neck-sizing-dies/ , or a Redding https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018049293/redding-type-s-bushing-full-length-sizer-die . If you're going down this rabbit hole you would probably want to get a good neck turner/reamer https://www.midwayusa.com/case-neck-turners-and-reamers/br?cid=10455 . But going down this rabbit hole this early on is not necessary. Most never do. Aren't most of the bench-rest guys going with full length sizing now?
And as u/-RicFlair mentions, the comparator tools would be more useful to you earlier on than the neck sizing/reaming tools. This is the comparator body with bullet ogive inserts. https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/bullet-comparators/lnl-comparator-body-w-14-inserts-prod36535.aspx . You should be able to find just a body and a .30 cal insert. And then these fit the same comparator body but measure shoulder bump https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/bullet-comparators/sinclair-bump-gage-insert-prod35265.aspx . Just for clarity, all this paragraph attaches to your caliper tool, so as u/-RicFlair also mentions, this is a reason to have 2 or more calipers. I have one dial caliper (never needs batterys) and one electronic which makes it easier to zero-out the comparator body + insert, so you're getting true lengths without having to perform subtraction, or re-zeroing a dial caliper.
This electronic caliper has been found to be accurate and inexpensive and the one I use https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525514664&sr=8-1&keywords=origincal . Keep extra 2032 batteries around! They give an extra battery in the case, but you don't want to be caught without. It matches up with my more expensive Brown & Sharpe dial caliper exactly, so far.
All my new cases also get prodded once with this tool https://www.midwayusa.com/product/729748/lyman-flash-hole-uniformer-tool . And after every firing (or 2) with one of these https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=primer+pocket+cleaner&userItemsPerPage=48 . Note that the steel pin wet tumblers will clean this debris out, but the tool is so cheap why not have a manual version for those once off/extra dirty times.
Case cleaning: 4 choices in approx $ low-\>high - wipe by hand cloth - dry media tumbler - sonic solution wet vibe - steel pin wet tumbler. The last one is the latest invention and the one to go to if you want/need shiny clean. https://www.cabelas.com/product/shooting/reloading/case-cleaning/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/104661180/platinum-series-rotary-tumbler-l/1811194.uts?slotId=0 Does an amazing job. Do you want to wet tumble every time? Perhaps not, so one of these is the original standby https://www.cabelas.com/product/shooting/reloading/case-cleaning/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/104661180/thumlers-tumbler-ultra-vibe-tumbler/705516.uts?slotId=8 . Still using the one i got since um lets see 1972ish, so wow, yeah 46 yrs ago. LOL. I won't recommend any other dry media tumbler.
Powder measure - can't go wrong with something like this https://www.midwayusa.com/product/759813/redding-match-grade-3br-powder-measure-with-universal-metering-chamber . You might need a stand to go with https://www.midwayusa.com/product/552580/redding-rs-6-powder-measure-bench-stand . I see that Redding has come out with a few more powder measures since I last gandered at them, so pick what u want.
Powder Trickler - https://www.midwayusa.com/powder-tricklers/br?cid=9212 your pick, they all should be decent, but I'd pick the Frankford first, RCBS 2nd. $20 ish. The Redding is too short, don't know why they haven't realized it yet. Still good, but theres better for your money.
Powder funnel - https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=powder+funnel&userItemsPerPage=48 . You can buy the pricey aluminum ones if you must have the best of the best, but the $5 jobbers have been doing the same job for a long time too, for the other 99.5% of us.
Scale - find an old used Lyman M5 or RCBS 505/510/1010 on ebay. Seriously. The ones that were made in good ole USofA. If it doesn't work to your satisfaction, there is a guy here that will re-tune to better than original. http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/tag/scott-parker/ . Or get an elec/batt scale. People seem to like the RCBS ChargeMaster https://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-ChargeMaster-Combo/741110.uts?slotId=0
Pick up another couple reloading manuals, Hornadys and Noslers. You can find bullet/charge weights online too, but say power or internet goes out, you've nothing to do, so may as well reload some. You want to pick another load to work up. What do? One manual is not enough.
Also useful to find an older volume of the same manuals at gunshows/shops in your area. I think Hornady is up to 10th ed. Find a 2nd or 3rd ed. to see how much the lawyers have caught on to our game.
I know Forster is still made in USA. I think Redding and Hornady too. But RCBS has left this shore and it shows. Thats why my money goes to the first 3. You can't go wrong swapping their versions for what I've suggested here.
When you have another wad of cash burning a hole in your pocket, and you've digested what you're doing thus far, there are other gauges/accessories/rabbit holes to fall into and spend your hard earned dough on. Hit me up, I've got more suggestions.
Gotta like spending other peoples money !!!!
SAFETY GLASSES. Depending on how youre removing support material, those tiny peices of plastic can go flying, and I've ended up being saved by my blinking reflex more than once. Just get a cheap pair and use them. Support material will go flying towards your eyes, its not a safety cliche.
Everyone says to use a heat gun to clean up stringing(which can still occur even with near-perfect retraction settings, its just the nature of plastic.), but i prefer a butane pocket torch. Just quickly flicking the switch will vaporize the strings, without waiting for a loud heat gun to heat up, potentially warp your parts if theyre thin, and set it down to cool. Just dont hold a flame to your parts, they will ignite. A very brief(fraction of a second) flame works perfectly. If youre just using your printer for functional parts right now, dont worry about this.
A pair of curved tweezers for picking plastic off of the nozzle before/during(if youre OCD)/after a print (depending on how your cooler is setup). Side note- if your nozzle is really dirty, heat it up to ~200c and brush it with a wet qtip. Works great without scraping the nozzle with a wire brush.
X-acto blades #17 and #11. #17 is great for removing support material. Just please make sure youre not pushing the blade in the direction of your hand/leg/chest/eye/other body part.
As far as finishing prints- I've only used sandpaper, but a resin like xtc-3d is also popular.
Calipers. Get a nice pair of calipers.
As far as modding your printer.... https://www.trimcraftaviationrc.com/ has all the nuts & bolts you might need for great prices.
As far as software goes, I used to use simplify3d but after switching to slic3r prusa edition i think its amazing. Join https://www.facebook.com/groups/prusacommunity/ and get chris warcocki's pretty PLA profiles for slic3r. Really great facebook group, they'll keep you updated on all the latest mk3 improvements/news
Oh, and get some isopropyl alcohol, at least 90%. Wipe down the bed with it after every single print. Occasionally wipe with acetone, but not too often.
As far as filament goes, everyone has different recommendations. Avoid makergeeks. Great filament, horrible company. Atomic is great, but $30/kg which is a bit much for daily PLA, especially if its just going to be used for light brackets or whatever. I've been trying lots of manufacturers and i just ordered some makeshaper, i'll update in a few days if its lives up to the expectations.
Youre going to love your mk3.
Not an expert, but
I'd focus on the drive train issues first, get all those tires working, might be a lost cause before going any deeper, but others will have to help with that, I take that kind of stuff to my mechanic.
Brake pedal could be that it's low on brake fluid, or one of the brake calipers is stuck.
My quad has a foot brake like that and a hand brake, but the foot brake only brakes 1 tire. That tire has two brake calipers on it's roter, one to the foot break and one to the hand brake. So the hand brake is all 4 wheels, and the foot brake is 1 wheel. There is a master cylinder on my hand brake and another on my right rear tire (foot brake). If my foot brakes master cylinder runs low or springs a leak, my pedal goes through the floor like in your pic but I'll still have brakes on the hand brake. It's like a double/emergency braking system. If my hand brake goes out I can down shift (engine brake) and lay on that foot brake to brake and not hit a tree...
___
Fuel wise, it's likely carburetor being old. The carburetor should have a primer on it that injects gas into the carb when you press/pull it. Those generally have a diaphragm in them (rubber) that tends to go bad over time and cause a fuel leak.
If you can find a diagram of the carburetor that would help emensely.
Really though, you should take the whole carburetor off, take it apart and give it a bath in carb cleaner (no plastic/rubber in there) and clean all the jets out.
Also, they make rebuild kits for most carb's that come with all new jets, and pilot screw etc. See if you can find one. I typically just replace them all, easier and then I have spares.
Also, inspect the carb's vent hose and make sure it's intact and not clogged. Check the fuel line too, for damage/rot.
You should also remove the gas tank and clean it out. Take the petcock off and inspect the filters and valve, then clean the whole gas tank out so there's no dirt/bad gas in there.
Then check/change the spark plug(s). Before running it though, I'd check the valve clearance on the valves, guides on that online.
Once all that's done, it should run good and not leak gas.
Then you can address your other issues.
Pending how old it is, there are some parts I might replace just because:
If the current ones are working, call them spares.
Starters and solenoids are cheap, voltage regulators OEM are expensive, but you can buy a few after markets pretty cheap to have spares.
Tool wise, I can recommend at least the following:
Then your typical ratchet sets, air tools, impact guns, etc.
And socket extensions (long ones) because getting to some things is a royal pita.
Listen: this time I am going to help you out but please understand much of this hobby is learning to do stuff for yourself. There is a ton of problem solving based on intuition, ability to search for others solutions, and taking shit apart. You will not have very much fun if you aren't willing to put in the work.
For the time being just fold up pieces of paper to shim the feet. You really need a carpenters square and a line level to make sure everything is square.
Start with the table. If the surface you are trying to level your system on isn't level then leveling the system is going to be impossible. You want gravity to help you not hurt you.
[Here] (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631) is the link for z braces.
I also highly recommend [this mod] (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1454073)
Once those are installed and properly calibrated then everything on the frame should be square.
Next step is to get have you system properly trammed. That is essentially leveling the build plate to the extruder. With the pressed sheet metal plate on there it cannot be done properly. You need to get a much thicker aluminum carriage. Somebody else in this thread already offered to sell you one. I for one am a big fan of supporting the maker community and think you should take him up on that offer as the same thing online costs about the same amount.
Here are the tools you need to be successful in this endeavor. A proper magnetic line level. I got mine at harbor freight for a few dollars. A carpenter's square the bigger the better IMO about 1 foot on each side. And a good pair of calipers. The calipers are the most expensive tool on this list but you don't need top of the line Mitotuyos. At work we have the Mits but at home I use [these.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
If you are willing to put the time in this hobby is great, very informative, and useful for all times of machining in the future.
Good luck I wish you well.
I have a Maker select. It's my first and only 3D printer so my review compared to others is unreliable.
Here's a copy/paste of a review I did on it about a month ago. It's long but detailed with links:
I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.
I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.
When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.
THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.
My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1
So, now to answer your question...
> How do you like your Maker Select?
I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.
As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:
So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:
DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.
z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.
Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.
That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
As the others said, stick to Maya or 3ds max. Learning C4D once you know other packages is pretty easy, but for employment you really want one of the Autodesk packages.
Also, I've found the best way to learn to do 3D modeling is to do it as often as possible. No substitute for hours spent trying and failing. Almost everything you model has unique needs and requirements, so watching tutorials can only help so much. You need to just get in there and start creating, hit a wall on how some part of it should be made, then go research the best technique. A good example is how best to drill holes in surfaces, many people trip up on this.
I would recommend you start by choosing simple real-world objects and model them, whether they are things in your room or products, etc. Go on Amazon and buy a pair of calipers (such as these) and use them to take measurements of real world objects as you model them. This will help you get everything proportionally correct, AND make the job easier. Guessing proportions is a good way to make everything look off.
Sorry for the delayed response!
I appreciate the compliment, sometimes I still get the feeling like I'm over my head with this stuff, but I still want to help however I can. Qui docet discit, as they say...
OK, if your results are coming back that far off, I would take a big step back and start with the basics. From what you've told me, my first guess is that the steps/mm for your towers is off. In your case, I would throw the assumption that your towers are all moving the same right out the window for now, and check each tower independently:
(Current steps/mm) x (Expected mm traveled) / (Actual mm traveled)
If that doesn't work, or if your steps/mm is still off, it's probably still a firmware setting, so try the following one at a time:
Don't give up! Running a 3D printer is an exercise in patience, and I find it extremely gratifying when it works! Trust me, you'll start keeping backups of your config settings, it's a hard lesson that most operators don't need to experience twice.
What you're in the middle of is exactly the kind of situation where "you have to know how to walk before you can run" applies, except in an extreme case like this, you have to learn to crawl first.
I'll help in whatever way I can! If you'd like, put your config and config-override files on pastebin, and I'll take a look to see if anything stands out!
So this is a month old but I have some insight if you haven't already started a certain path.
I just bought a 300blk upper for my pistol. I have a lot of 223 brass I've saved to and decided to reload for 223 to save some money. Well I'm pretty well into reloading for 223 and decided i would start for 300blk as well. The equipment isn't too expensive (relatively) if you get some Cabela's sales and buy some discounted gift cards. Full equipment with necessary parts will run about $250 after everything (can be cheaper if you buy a bundle pack).
This kit
Digital caliper
Initial 300blk dies
Trimming die
Trimmer
Case lube
That's pretty much it for the equipment side. Then you'll need bullets, powders, and primers.
If you're starting out with 223 brass you may want to cut the case before trimming, but you'll need something to cut it with. If you buy some ammo to shoot and collect the casings you can't use them too.
I have everything I need for 300blk except powder pretty much. I just need to find something to use.
So $250 for equipment and 1k round of 223 reloading will cost me about $175. That's $425 for the first 1k round of just 223. Once I buy stuff for 308, 300blk, and 9mm I'll start saving in much higher quantities per round. I think I'll probably actually start saving money through reloading in a couple months if I shoot as regularly as I'd like. I still buy ammo on sales and all, so I typically don't count brass into my cost for a reloaded round. On average it's about $.18/round (for .223) if I don't find good deals.
Edit: so I just went through and did some calculating. .178cpr for 223, .285cpr for 300blk, and .362cpr for 308 of I get good sales and free shipping.
Knowing that he made a 4 ft x 4 ft cnc machine, I would venture to guess it would be a cnc router and he is planning to mainly cut wood and maybe some aluminum. That said I really wouldn't buy expensive machinist tools if you wanted to better budget your money.
Here are some stuff that can be made on a cnc router:
http://www.shopbottools.com/mSupport/projects.htm
I'm assuming he may have told you what kind of stuff he could build or wanted to build when he said he wanted to build one. If it was for wood projects, then you can get a good 6 in. digital caliper under $40, such as these:
http://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W
I have the large readout version of that one by the way.
Not sure what he plans to use for clamping his stuff down to the table, but here's a great option:
http://www.rockler.com/hold-down-clamp-5-1-2l-x-1-1-8w
OK, you built a cnc router, but what do you make? Here are some 3D files for purchase:
http://www.vectorart3d.com/
This 3D router bit set will work for sign making (not sure what diameter bit he needs, and also add some spiral bits)
http://www.rockler.com/rockler-3-pc-signmaking-router-bit-set
This is a great work shop apron because these shoulder straps are more comfortable than the ones the just go around your neck. Also the mesh pockets let saw dust fall out instead of collecting in there.
http://m.duluthtrading.com/store/mens/mens-workshop/tool-bags-tool-belts/85021.aspx
If your not sure what he plans to cut them a gift card is always welcomed.
I cant' speak for other people, but in my case, I have an interest in building and making things outside of work, so I have invested time into learning how to use Fusion 360, and also purchased calipers (specifically this one) to get accurate measurements.
For this particular model, I had the broken part, and could measure everything using the pieces I had and the calipers. Using those measurements I could use Fusion 360 to model the part.
If you want to get started with making your own things, I would suggest first learning a program like Fusion. Tinkercad is a great starting point for people with no 3D modeling experience because it's free and is easier than a CAD program. Once you are comfortable with that, I would start tinkering with Fusion 360. Maker's Muse has a playlist that was helpful for me.
From there, it's whatever you think of to create.
You can be assembled and printing with the included tools in about half an hour, with no prior 3D printer experience. That's not a problem.
Actually getting the most out of the printer though, that depends on what you want to use it for.
I use it for making functional prints, replacement parts, and sometimes cool trinkets. I am not an artist, if you want to model and print sculptures, good luck. I haven't a clue.
If you're like me and want to make what I make, here's a list of things you should get:
Things you should print:
Things you should download:
While I'm making suggestions, I'd say you should get some PLA and PETG to start with, ignore ABS entirely. It's slightly cheaper per kilogram, but there are toxic fumes to worry about and it really needs an enclosure to print (well).
PLA is cheap enough, but doesn't flex as much as ABS so it's better for different applications. PETG is like the best parts of PLA and ABS, but you have to print at lower speeds.
I print at 45mm/s, 5 second minimum layer time using both PLA and PETG and it works perfectly. 210C/60C for PLA and 250/70 for PETG.
If you have any questions, you know where to find me. :)
It takes a while to dial in your printer. There's a bit of a learning curve, but it's not too steep and... It's totally worth it! Your print quality will increase dramatically after you tweak some of the underlying settings. Here are a couple of things you need to do if you haven't already done them.
Good luck and happy printing!
This post is specifically about the HF 44991 mill.
I just got into milling and purchased the 44991 mill from Harbor freight. The 44991 is just a re-branded Sieg X2. They are not amazing mills, but they do work, there are also lots of after market mods that can really enhance the machine and make it more capable.
The First upgrade I would do is the Belt drive conversion. The nylon gears get destroyed pretty easily. Little Machine Shop is running a sale on their belt drive this week.
The second is the iGaging DRO upgrade available on amazon or from Anytime Tools.
Link to 6"
link to 12"
The 3rd upgrade is the Z axis Air spring conversion. It extends your Z-axis range a LOT and it is much smoother and easier to control. The included torsion spring is cumbersome.
The 4th is not so much a modification, but the included drill press chuck is not great. I recommend a good set of R8 collets.
try these
Make sure to disassemble and clean all of the grease out of the machine. Tighten up everything really nicely upon reassembly and you'll have a nicer machine than any of the Sieg X2 re-brands you can buy pre-built.
Very cool and informative video. Really neat use of salvaged parts and the guy is intelligent and skilled. However I think he kind of down plays and under estimates the cost of the product and tools he was using and he also mentions the fact that you can buy a lathe (that would almost certainly work better) for a similar price. The big kicker is the other tools. The tools to use and or build this lathe would cost more than the machine itself. I'm going to link you some of the tools you'd want to be able to use this machine effectively (and make it).
This granite block will be the basis for all of your measurements it is extremely flat. You'd probably want to make a stand for it and it is very heavy as well. The 933$ version would be ideal for bigger stuff but maybe you could just make small stuff it's a small lathe anyways so lets say the 235$ version
https://www.amazon.com/HHIP-4401-1812-Granite-Surface-Accuracy/dp/B01LTHIHCK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=granite%2Bblock&qid=1569402248&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
Mitutoyo Digital Caliper 120$ The waterproof version is better if you intend to use coolant. I think you could use cheaper no name ones for the ones that he built into the machine but you would need one good one.
https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=mitutoyo+digital+calipers&qid=1569402063&s=gateway&sprefix=mitutoyo+digital&sr=8-3
Range dial indicator (runout gauge). He used one in the video and you'd be using one a lot. 219$
https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-64PKA075-Indicator-Magnetic-Plastic/dp/B007XZIT5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=runout+gauge+mitutoyo&qid=1569402528&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Micrometer set with standards. 354$
https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-103-922-Micrometer-Standards-Graduation/dp/B0006J42OA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=mitutoyo+micrometer&qid=1569403065&s=gateway&sr=8-5
That's just getting started. Now you might be able to find some of this stuff used but I'm not sure if I would trust it. You wouldn't believe how careless people treat tools that cost several hundred dollars. If you did go used I'd try to find someone getting rid of their personal tools, not shop tools.
This isn't to discourage you though. I just want people to realize it's not easy or cheap. I'd start out with a lathe for wood and make stuff on it that doesn't need the tight tolerances.
Check out this guy. https://youtu.be/yCaGW9z4blM
this one is a plastic head Caliper. Now these are cheap and flimsy but should be fine for regular day to day measurements. Just about any caliper around 30$ should also be fine and definitely better than the 10$ set. I wont link any of those since there are plenty and you should make your own informed purchase on those. If you plan on printing parts that need really tight tolerances id recommend saving up your pennies to to buy a better quality set. But these should be fine for casual measurements.
So with your scope of use, reloading might not be the path best taken given the monetary outlay. There's plenty of scary good factory ammo (I'm a fan of the Hornady SuperPerformance line) where it does almost as good as my reloads, minus the hassle and labor. If you said you were shooting 69/77gr match stuff, I could almost definitely tell you to fire up the press.
If you intend to reload for other centerfire, especially large bore, or rimmed stuff, then the decision to grab a press is almost a given.
Its amazingly easy with things like https://www.tinkercad.com/
​
I had also never done any 3D designing before I got my 3D printer and have made many parts like this pretty easily.
I found that purchasing a cheap digital caliper is a great investment too, I had to prototype far fewer prints when I could accurately measure to the .1mm, 3D printers are amazingly accurate. Measuring things like the shaft of the part you want to create that needs to slide into the stick then making a perfectly size hex hole to accommodate is the hardest part.
After looking through a lot of reviews, this is the one I got:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KDUD67G
It isn't just how accurately they can measure, but how repeatable the results are, as well as how well they zero out and maintain that zero. This one was one of the best-tested ones without going to the $120+ Mitutoyo. It is definitely superior to the really cheap Harbor Freight / Frankford Arsenel / etc (pretty sure they are all the exact same ones rebranded).
Edit: I used this to successfully build a 1911 from 80% as well as regularly for reloading. I've also had other known good items (gauge pin sets, gun parts, etc) to provide a reputable comparison and test of its accuracy.
As a design engineer my prize posession is my SpaceMouse Pro. Costs about $300 retail, $150 with a student id. Its a totally geeky gift that would only be useful to someone who does design work but they are an awesome piece of kit.
Other options:
Ipad mini
Rotring 800 drafting pencil
High end micrometer or calipers. Something like this measuring set would be fantastic: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004ZZS5L2/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?qid=1398222478&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
For calipers I'm not sure about going with gun brand name since the price tends to go up just because gunz. This thing is probably just as good as your Frankford, but much less money. It's $17 and pretty much the same thing as the Hornady that goes for $27. Just look for general calipers that have the best reviews and you're bound to get a better deal than that one. Definitely look to see if they maintain zero for a long time, since you don't want it to be off several thousandths by the time you've measured your COL on your 50th bullet of 100.
Here's my process:
I measured the leftover openings, their width, length and depth. Then I measured the distances between the openings. Once I had my dimensions, I recreated the openings in Solidworks as a sketch and then proceeded to work on the handle. First I created the general large shape of the handle and made sure it overlayed the openings. After applying some fillets and cuts to get the outside shape to what I want, I used the Shell command to remove any excess material on the inside of the handle to create a shell of my wanted thickness. Once I had the shape of the handle done, I added the tabs to go on the inside of the door. I printed a small section of the handle with 2 tabs to make sure the fit was good, made a few small adjustments and then printed the whole handle standing up in PETG. It's rock solid.
Fusion 360 should work just as well as Solidworks. My tool for measuring are $16 Neiko micrometers from amazon, I absolutely love them and use them all the time for work and around the house.
These are the ones I bought before:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NEA0P8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
So I've had my Anet A8 for about 3 weeks now. I have done everything you are seeing. First off let me say get yourself something like this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072L2YJLH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Auto Bed leveling is amazing for being able to adjust and get that good adhesion. Also I was ripping my hair out trying to figure this out, when I took my nozzle off, and it was supposed to be a 0.4mm nozzle, but my 0.6mm drill bit went had gap on both sides, so the hole was 0.7mm which is bad when you are expecting a smaller hole. I would suggest moving changing nozzles/block. That said, also make sure that your thermistor is in the heatblock. There is the little hole by the heater that goes into the heating block. If not, you will be over heating for the filament.
Looking at what has been pused out, your nozzel is too far off the bed. If you don't have a dial calipers I would suggest getting one. something like this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NEA0P8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
People say use a sheet of paper, but depending on the paper weight, you will have different thickness. Try to find a sheet that is either .1 or .2mm thick. This will allow you to set with the sheet of paper easier. I have .1mm thick paper that drags pretty hard, and that gives me a nice squish. If you think about it, you should be pushing a .4mm and with a .2mm layer, it should be half flat, half round. If the extruded is all round, then you are close enough to squish it. The most important part to the print is making sure the nozzle is at the size it is supposed to be.
https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-Advanced-Absolute-Digital-Caliper/dp/B00WMKUUAQ
This is what you want. Couple bucks over asking but theres only really two companies worth looking at when it comes to quality measuring tools. Starrett and Mitutoyo. Starrett in my experience is generally a little more expensive.
Both brands are a "buy for life" variety when taken care of.
Every comment below is recommending there calipers so feel free to save yourself a headache. Merry Christmas.
He needs, yes. The Lee Challenger kit is around $99 on Amazon, and that has everything he'll need to get started except for: Bullets, Primers, Powder and Brass and DIES for 7.62x54r (another $30-$40)
Now, he'll want a digital scale, a case trimmer, and a tumbler to get his brass clean and pretty. That all can be added on, and most likely, be purchased in addition to the press kit for about $200.
Here's a list of things he'll want:
Lee Challenger Reloading Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hornady Reloading Manual (So he doesn’t blow himself up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MAUZ71V/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Calipers (So he doesn’t blow his gun up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
7.62x54r Reloading Dies
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-7-62X54R-Pacesetter-Dies/dp/B00162UGUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511562718&sr=8-1&keywords=7.62x54r+dies
Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler (To make clean-shiny brass)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MYGLJC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Case Tumbling Media
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQRGF2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
RCBS Universal Case Loading Block
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013RA5DQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hornady One-Shot Case Lube https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001NA29U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Guardians of the Galaxy Soundtrack (Because listening to good music scientifically makes better bullets)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LICGSFU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8
Definitely get yourself a set of calipers. Even low-cost units can do you quite a bit of good as long as you don't expect too much out of them. Something like these can get you where you need to go.
With bipods, there's definitely some technique to be learned with them. You should remember to load the bipod while shooting. This article should help you understand. Also, cruise around on that site as it has an absolute wealth of information on it.
It sounds as wind didn't have much of an effect, so that's good. Keep it in mind, though, to shoot in a similar condition. If the wind is blowing when you start shooting, try not to shoot during a lull in the wind, and vice-versa.
Regarding your sizing die, try to adjust it where you have a good amount of contact. You should feel it hit the shellholder when you're working through the upstroke. It's hard to explain, kinda like when you know when a bolt is snug enough via the good old German spec - gudentite. ;)
Alright... ignoring the fact that your asking how to install gears implies heavily that you don't know the first step... OR the first thing. Here's the basic run down. I'm not going to go into detail on torque specs, or specific procedure... i'd be here all night on a how-to that most people don't give two shits about. I'm also doing this ONLY for the 8.25. DANA 44's are too rare in stock, and DANA 35's don't deserve to be rebuilt.
Tools needed:
Parts needed:
On a 8.25...
Go for a drive. If everything was done right, you should now have more power, and no rear end noise. if you do... you need to take the rear apart again, and reset the gears to clear the noise.
I'm sure i forgot something, like thrust washers. Don't crucify me for it. If you want a REAL guide, you need to do more research.
Yea. Let's assume I've squared my machine and trust that the blade and the fence are parallel. I just want to find a way to accurately get the width of the cut. I got this for my planer and it's brilliant. I was hoping for something like this, or a technique that's used for nice, accurate cuts other than try, try again, and hope you don't overdo it.
Unfortunately I don't think that there's another solution that would produce an acceptable result. Personally I'd measure the thickness of the door and shop for a new lock to suit.
Here we go, from Amazon:
Cam Lock
Available sizes For Material Thickness:
5/8" cylinders fit up to 3/8" material
7/8" cylinders fit up to 5/8" material
1-1/8" cylinders fit up to 7/8" material
1-3/8" cylinders fit up to 1-1/8" material
Also I'd suggest a set of These which make measuring things like this really easy and they are cheap!
Stabila's offerings are some of the best. I'd look there.
Edit: http://www.amazon.com/Stabila-36548-48-Inch-Electronic-Waterproof/dp/B004O0TTTK
the extra length will help give more accurate consistent measurements.
Thats one of the more reasonable purchases over Starrett, though Starretts are hands down the best.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008MHSMU8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1464296211&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=starrett+digital+level&dpPl=1&dpID=41mNgnEAciL&ref=plSrch
Though for your purposes you might be able to get by with something analog like http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002CSBNY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464296335&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=starrett+digital+level&dpPl=1&dpID=41wkUPfhe3L&ref=plSrch#
I've used some Fowler calipers at work and... I will never purchase a pair for myself. They're almost always inaccurate, I have to constantly zero them, even after calibration.. just.. ugh.
It's true that Mitutoyo tools are expensive, but part of that price is longevity. I've had the same Mitutoyo Mic for 2 years now and it works just as well as the day I got it. I've had other brands that only worked well for 4-6 months of regular use, and it just isn't worth the hassle.
Honestly, though, with a .002 tolerance (Which compared to my tolerances at work, that's massive), you could get away with an eyegaging or something similar. I used These for about 8 months when I was starting out and they were adequate.
These digital calipers have been great for me. They are extremely accurate and precise, and the ability to switch between mm, decimal inches, and fraction inches is great if you live in the one developed country not yet on the metric system for some reason. It also includes two batteries, which is nice.
It's a great piece of equipment as-is, but if you ever want a digital depth gauge, check this one out: https://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR510-Digital-Readout-Fractions/dp/B001PTGBSK. I have one on order for my Dewalt 735 planer. The built-in gauge works fine, but I figured this was a little easier to read (quickly, and more accurate than a ruler-type reading), and it's not overly expensive. Enjoy your new toy, it will provide you with some great results.
Most of that stuff really isn't that scary to mess with, you just have to do stuff in a specific order and usually loosen up the strings before making any adjustments. Its really more patience than anything.
as for the input jack, it's probably gotten twisted in the socket where it's pressing against the wall/wood and that makes it hard to click the plug in. Just take the whole plate off, loosen up the nut (if it's not loose already) and turn the jack until you can put it back in the hole without it touching the sides. tighten the nut down holding the jack in that spot, then screw the plate back on. That should take care of the plug problem
iif wires have come loose from it, it's super simple to solder them back on. it's only 2 wires, so you can only screw it up once (theoretically).
7-9th fret buzz could be a bunch of different things. once you gt the strings off, use a straight edge and a fret-rocker to see if your frets are all even and the neck relief is correct, and fix those following a tutorial. then put the NEW strings on and go at bridge adjustments. Sometimes just a new set of strings will stop a lot of the buzzing too. figure out how to adjust the bridge for height, radius, and intonation, and after that your guitar should play AMAZING.
And remember to get the same gauge strings, that will make any adjustments a very minor job. if you go up or down in string size, the adjustments need to be a little more drastic so you can save trouble that way. If you don't know the gauge of your strings, find somebody that has one of these, a caliper and you can measure the first + last strings with it to figure out what gauge they are.
I have this Wixey set (do you call them a set?) and have been perfectly happy with them (it?); I bought this model/brand because I was happy with their angle gauge, and the price was right.
Edit: misspelled brand name.
DW735. Nice! I have the same model. Definitely look at swapping, or at least rotating the blades. I bought this Wixey Digital Gauge and love it. No more guessing at placement of the measuring arrow. Also, it's as loud and as powerful as a jet engine. Make sure you have dust collection and ear protection.
> would be possible to put a set of bullhorns on my bike
Almost certainly yes. You might need a new stem.
> and still be able to use my current shifters/brakes.
Maybe. Measure the diameter of your existing bars where the shifters are mounted. The best tool to do this is a pair of measuring calipers, something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414190268&sr=8-1&keywords=measuring+calipers
Handlebars come in only a few standard diameters, but really the best way to answer your question is to measure it empirically.
If I were in your position, I would definitely shoot for a big ticket item such as the sawstop PCS (36" T-glide) with 1.75hp motor. That will eat up your entire budget (plus $219 more). I cannot imagine a hobbyist woodworker who would not be happy with it.
OR you can do lots of little stuff: (take out the things he may already have)
Sharpening: this this this this and this
Chisels: here
Japanese saw: this and this
Caliper: here
Exceptional quality hand plane set every woodworker would love to have if they don't have it already: here. Conversely, you can get the Lie Nielsen 60-1/2 block plane and get the #4 and #5 from Lee Valley (I prefer their version).
If he doesn't have a planer, this is a great one: here
As for festool products, I would highly recommend the Rotex 150 with Dust collector combination
I'm sure i'm missing a couple of stuff here and there but I hope the list helps you get started.
I have a set of mitutoyo for my work, but for knock around and loaners I got these from amazon and I’ve been pretty happy with them.
https://www.amazon.com/VINCA-DCLA-0605-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B017KUC6XQ
Best of the budget category is probably the iGaging calipers. Yes, it's absolutely worth the price difference over the $10 versions. If you weren't looking for the "best" recommendation and just looking for "cheap", then I would recommend the $10 ones. They're fine after a few minutes of cleaning them up.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AQEZ2W/
http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-Rock-Chucker-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit/1324071.uts ($50 mail-in rebate on this)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8JZL4?psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Small-Base-Die-223/dp/B000N8LIOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495571705&sr=1-1&keywords=rcbs+223+dies
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495571775&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+calipers
https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Length-Headspace-Gauge/dp/B001RI7A66/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572110&sr=1-1&keywords=lyman+headspace+gauge
= $435, leaving $65 for your first round of components.
When your $50 rebate comes, I'd get this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Comparator-Inserts/dp/B000PD5VLA/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572018&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+bullet+comparator
https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-836017-Quick-n-EZ-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572088&sr=1-2&keywords=bullet+puller
This is basically my exact setup and I get great results from it.
Can you recommend me one under $30?
Maybe one of these?
These are in Canadian $
Digital Vernier Caliper Tacklife Upgraded Stainless Steel Caliper 3 Units Conversion With Thumb-Roll Accurate Setting|Auto Off Mode|±0.001" Accuracy|6" Range--DC02 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071X63837/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_25oTDbK5CP5K2
$25
Digital Caliper Tacklife 150mm 0-6'' Vernier Caliper with 2 inches Wide Super Clear Display Auto Off for Length Depth Step Values, Plastic Material- DC01 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07DHLS3TF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c6oTDb1NBFVFF
$17
Neoteck 6 inch/150mm Digital Caliper + Feeler Gauge Set, Stainless Steel Electronic Vernier Caliper Fractions/ Inch/ Metric Conversion https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074M6LX1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_o6oTDb5D39CHZ
$32
What is a feeler gauge set?
I'd do a different spool setup. I use the TUSH The only needed hardware for that one is 4 skate bearings. If you need bearings I'll send you 4 for $5 or 8 for $6. Shipping included to US.
The other tools I recommend:
pair of calipers. pretty cheap on amazon and should be a standard tool for 3d printing.
here is a pair for $13 shipped
https://www.amazon.com/SE-784EC-Digital-Caliper-Metric/dp/B003MA08VQ
personally I would go with something better.
These are well reviews and liked and come with a case
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/
$40
I would invest in some case gauges and headspace gauges. This way you can do a plunk test to make sure they're in spec without actually doing a plunk test in the firearm. I tend to check every 5-10th round to make sure they all seem to be in spec.. There's nothing worse than loading 200 rounds and find out that you maybe accidentally changed something or something moved and they're all out of spec.
I use the Wilson Case Gauge and it works really well. Lyman has one for about $21 you can try. I was going to get that one and changed my mind after I heard a story or two about the Lyman one not being stainless steel and got rusty.. but I live in the desert and don't have a swamp cooler so I shouldn't have to worry about that. Didn't think about it at the time.
Right now for a cheap way to trim, I use the Lyman E-ZEE Trimmer attached to my power drill.
You'll also want a good pair of calipers. I use the Hornady Digital Caliper and it works well enough.
If I think of anything else, I'll update.
If you know the screw size of the screws you plan to use, you can use a screw size chart (like this: http://www.accuratescrew.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Table1.jpg)
Don't forget to convert the inches to millimeters ;)
​
I just used my digital calipers to measure the size of the screws I was going to use and then added a bit of clearance. If you're going to make functional prints, you'll probably at least want some form of caliper measuring device. ... it doesn't have to be super expensive and insanely accurate.. this would do just fine IMO: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Caliper-Adoric-Calipers-Measuring/dp/B07DFFYCXS/ref=sr_1_18?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1543583874&sr=1-18&keywords=caliper
​
Another option which is another "functional print" is to design a plate with ascending hole sizes so you can test fit screws whenever you are trying to decide what size hole to make (kinda nice to have a physical representation of the holes your printer makes) Don't forget to mark it though :)
​
My reloading setup was based on budget. I spent about $147 total for my Lee Single Stage Press + extras. The only complaint I have is I wish the press was a little more accurate for speedier results.
Id like if anyone commented on high speed pressing components with high accuracy results. It would be nice to have but really just curious whats out there and what works.
Edit: incase you were curious ive listed my parts below
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SF4X5I/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Deluxe-3-Die-Rifle/dp/B00162TEOE
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOQIOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOSGOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014136PA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00162UGQE/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'd recommend you just pick up a set of cheapo digital calipers off Amazon like these. Worth noting, though, that if you plan to use it only to measure lug width you could save yourself some money and pick up one of these, since the precision of a digital set isn't necessary.
The ones from Lowes may be too small at only 3inches. It'd be best to get something closer to your print bed size
I bought these 6 inch calipers from amazon and they have been great https://www.amazon.com/VINCA-DCLA-0605-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B017KUC6XQ
I still sort and reuse Medeco pins because they're so damned expensive. Get a digital or dial micrometer. Much faster than dropping them into a plug with depth keys. You should have a micrometer anyway. It's pretty much the number one best way to diagnose fiddly little problems with depth and spacing. It's invaluable for adjusting your key machines. I can get my Borkey duplicator down to sub .001 accuracy with one.
In the old days, a decent dial micrometer was expensive. Now, those digital ones are dirt cheap and perfectly serviceable. I bought the one I linked to above as a backup to my fancy Mitutoyo dial unit, and at $17 and change, I actually use it as my main one now because it was so cheap I'm not afraid of damaging it.
RCBS Kit $300
Hornday Calipers $25
You need a case trimmer. I went for the WFT.
Then you need dies (sizer/seater). You can spend as little as $50 or so for this, I went with the most recommended which was Redding and cost $160.
All of this made sense for me because I knew I was going to keep it forever. But if you have the funds to do it right, do it right and dont skimp. Because even if you should decide in a year you dont want to do it anymore, you are more likely to be able to sell good components than cheap ones, and at less of a depreciation. I bought all this stuff a year ago, and I bet I could get an 80-90% return if I were to sell it now.
Just keep a few things in mind: Reloading, especially as a beginner, takes time. Expect 100 rounds of .308 from start to finish to take you 4ish hours. And add to the cost, you can see already that $500-600 is about where you will land with just components (accounting for the cost for a tumbler). Now components, lets do the math for 1,000 rounds. You have to buy Brass (expensive, 100 costs $50-80, but they are obviously reuseable), bullets (lots of 500 for $170, so $340 for 1k), powder (can be hard to find, and if you have to ship can be expensive, think $40/lb, 7lbs should get you a tad more than 1k rounds, so $280 for 7lbs+hazmat/shipping+$50ish), and primers (sold in lots of 1k for about $32, $27 hazmat shipping fee unless you pick up locally/ship with powder).
On the conservative side, assume you spend $500 on components to be ready to reload. +$70 (brass avg), +$340, +$330, +$32 = $772 for 1,000 rounds, just in components.
Now you are at about $1200-1300 for 1,000 rounds. But your next 1,000 are only components, so $772 (ish) per 1k from then on out.
But if you aren't even sure you want to do this for a long time, you may not make up the cost difference of the equipment. Which is where one of the fallacies of reloading lies, don't get into it to save money. Get into it to have complete and total control over the product that you shoot. If that's not worth it to you, just buy factory ammo.
Lastly, going back tot he $1200-1300, lets average it again to $1250, how much ammo can you get for that, right now? Assume you find Federal Premium Gold Medal Match 175gr (you wont) boxes of 20 are $35. Thats 35 boxes, or 700 rounds. Or you could go Hornady 168gr for $26.50. Thats 47 boxes for $1250, or 940 rounds.
Disclaimer, its early, still drinking coffee, please correct math if I screwed up somewhere (it's been known to happen). My close friend wants to build his first precision rifle, and he fell into the newbie mistake of thinking he could skimp on things, like optics. I wont say I demanded he 'spend twice what he did on the rifle, on the glass' or anything like that. But I told him I already spent more than his rifle will cost on reloading gear, which he can use, so he wont have to. So he has to spend at least $850 (Vortex PST 6-24x FFP) on his scope to use my gear. I think getting into this style of shooting you need $1k for the gun, $1k for the optics, $1k for reloading. There will be some the gun/optics category to fill in for accessories, or add to the reloading budget, but if you cant spend $3k for a .308 setup, shooting .308 is going to be too costly for you anyways.
Get a decent digital caliper and get good at measuring, model it yourself.
Here is the fun part though - printers shrink some dimensions and expand others based on temperature, extrusion, brand of filament and a hundred other variables.
I make parts that hold spring loaded Pogo pins than are about 1.6mm to 2mm in diameter.
For every design I print a test piece with the holes in various orientations to the build plate. I make each hole the correct size then some a little larger and some a little smaller. I create a profile for each part I print and save that.
When I get the test piece done, I check each hole for fit. Now I know that for part number XYZ123 on Brand-X PLA I need to make the vertical holes .05mm larger and horizontal holes .1 smaller.
It's a pain but it helps take some of the mystery out of sizing.
I have had VERY good results with the iGaging Absolute Origin found on Amazon Here: https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1498694071&sr=8-5&keywords=digital+calipers
There are a number of reloaders (much deeper into reloading than I) using this piece of hardware with very good results.
Here is the video that sold me on buying it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yqZx_FNbSs
Most cheap calipers are fine for measuring prints for accuracy. If you want to get something a little better than the cheapest but not spend too much, I'd recommend these. They're probably not more accurate than other digital calipers in the $20-$25 range, but the absolute origin feature makes them easier to use since you don't have to zero-out each time you use them.
A cheap digital caliper is great if you're going to be making parts that need to fit onto something else.
https://www.amazon.com/VINCA-DCLA-0605-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B017KUC6XQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1495820845&sr=1-4&keywords=iGaging+EZCAL
Long nose pliers for removing support material, and for cutting filament before you load it.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-84-101-Basic-Cutting-Plier/dp/B000B8FRQ8/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1495821639&sr=1-4&keywords=nose+cutting+pliers
Bowl gouge, not gauge :)
Read this PDF and watch the video that's linked for more information as to why spindle gouges are not to be used for bowls or other cross-grain turning.
The accessory tool set you linked is mostly designed for metalworking by the look of it. You would make modest use of the two spring calipers and the scribe compass in the bottom left of the photo, but none of the other stuff would be useful to a woodturner doing bowls. To be honest, you can buy the same three tools for under $20, so I'd buy the calipers and then maybe a [cheap digital caliper}(https://www.amazon.com/Neiko®-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/) for when accuracy matters.
I have uploaded my work papers here that should help, you can also check my post history for other work in progress shots.
Basic rundown:
Always more than willing to answer any questions, so let me know if something does not make sense.
30mm dia. base Source 510 from Stealthvape turned down to 25mm. Threads weren't damaged from being chucked in a 3-jaw. Used a carbide cutter and took light cuts, about 0.05mm per pass. Also wet sanded the top base 600-2500 grit (I should have started with a lower grit, still some tooling marks)
http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/SOURCE-30MM-FLAT
/u/IsABot /u/vapescaped you guys want one let me know
A prior thread asking about 25mm 510s: https://www.reddit.com/r/OpenPV/comments/5gnnbf/25mm_510_connector/
If anyone needs some digital calipers, these are great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/ I was using some from Harbor Freight prior and was becoming frustrated with them. Started looking around and these were quite highly recommended and well reviewed. Well machined, few smooth action, maintains zero. Was considering dropping $200 on Mitutoyo calipers until luckily finding these
This won't give you an immediate answer, but a caliper would tell you and they are handy to have around.
Even a super cheap harbor freight one would do. Personally, I like my not as cheap as it could be, but far from costly set.
Oh and get a valve cap.
Get yourself a pair of these (if you don't already):
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=calipers&qid=1565281175&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Then you just measure and model. Look at the basic shape first and model the basic shape. Then add (and subtract) as necessary.
I find using OpenSCAD a little easier for duplicating a real world part because you can use variables and fine tune with variable values rather than having to redraw something. (in OpenSCAD you write code instead of click-to-draw).
3D scanning would also be an option if you have that setup (been meaning to print a 3d scanning rig...couple of good options on thingiverse)
Mitutoyo is absolutely the best, but just in case you want to pickup a few calipers that are very near the same quality at budget pricing, I can highly recommend: iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - IP54 Protection / Extreme Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_02MAyb2RWWRKM
I have purchased several of these for our engineering department and they are leaps and bounds better than other cheap units. The sliding action is smooth with no slop. The display updates very quickly. Accuracy and repeatability have been tested to be comparable to the Mitutoyos.
Thickness caliper and runout tool to determining of the rotor is within specification for thickness and warpage. Visually check for irregularities like cracks, hot spots and glazing. Just replace it to ensure their safety.
Examples for your reference.
Runout tool
Türlen Disc Brake Rotor and Ball Joint Runout Gauge Set Dial Indicator 1"/0.0005" Flexible Arm Clamp Locking Vise w/Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LML96RI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YlrFDbXC49Q24
Caliper gauge
Anytime Tools Disc Brake Rotor Caliper Digital Electronic Gauge Gage Micrometer 0-2.5"/0.0005" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Y1OWKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_anrFDb4TBV4CJ
This site helps with Nova thread adapters.
Some other instructions.
Also, you should look into some decimal inch calipers. Or dial Or digital. I guess if you are used to that scale it’s fine. But using 16ths and then going to 128ths just seems pretty difficult. (1 + 12/16 + 4/128 = 1.78125) If you can do that in your head I’m impressed.
It does seem that 1.75-6 is what those measurements come out to. But idk how you determine what thread type it is. It could be metric? I’d probably do everything I could to find a published thread size and type from the manufacturer.
What size morse taper is this?
Buy yourself a set of calipers (those are cheap, use better ones for real precision work) and take em with you when you go shopping. You'll be able to tell how thick things are from memory pretty quick that way.
And you're right; most dimensioned lumber is in 3/4" thicknesses. If you need to double that then buy 2 boards and glue em together. Easily done, just takes all teh clamps.
I started out using a plastic RCBS dial caliper, but the teeth in the dial gearing started skipping so I had to find a new one. I went with this one from Amazon. I was skeptical, given the low, low price, but it was reviewed pretty well and I've been using now for several months and find it's working great.
I'd also agree with Mitutoyo, they're top of the line in my opinion. I use them at work, and they're great. However for at home I just bought these. I will only be measuring ID or OD of hose, etc.
https://i.gyazo.com/4236146349e1e7c6e712be3963a7462f.png
https://www.amazon.com/VINCA-DCLA-0605-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B017KUC6XQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1502910277&sr=1-4&keywords=digital+caliper
You actually just graduated a level in motorcycle maintenance. You can replace your own chains with a chain breaker/pin set kit and a digital micrometer.
High quality chains like D.I.D. are a good idea, and the instructions will be clear regarding the spread/flare measurement on the pin.
If you do this, lube the threads on the extractor with a little lithium.
You will also typically want to replace both sprockets with the chain.
~$25 can get you a pretty darn good digital caliper tho.
https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=24JYAF83MNG8BTGTSMVR
I don't do super precise stuff with mine, but it's worked well for shimming electric motors inside of fan housings.
And it doesn't eat batteries while in storage. So ¯_(ツ)_/¯
I have one of these (https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS) as well as a Mitutoyo (along with the piece of crap in the gif).
The iGaging is absolutely amazing for the price and feels pretty much the same quality as the Mitutoyo.
But without a doubt if you have some cash to splash, get the Mitutoyo Digimatic.
Buying this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and buying this in order to properly calibrate e-steps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These two things took my prints from adequate to pristine. Huge improvement.
That is a really good project. I think you should try to find something that has already been done by a mod'ing expert or be ready to do a lot of research and CAD work.
If no mod example can be found you will have to go solo. I expect that the Intel NUC's could be made to fit if the bottom was cut to allow for its excess height. The feet need to be extended so that the laptop did not rock.
https://www.pcworld.com/article/3074962/computers/intel-nuc6i7kyk-review-this-skull-canyon-nuc-smashes-all-mini-pc-preconceptions.html
You can find all the tech details for the "Skull Canyon" NUC on Intel's website. The PDF of technical Product Specifications is where I would start.
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/nuc/nuc-assets/nuc-skull-canyon.html?wapkw=skull+canyon+nuc
.
I think you will need some digital calipers and CAD software before you can be sure.
Neiko 01408A Electronic Digital Caliper with Extra Large LCD Screen
Electronic calipers are super useful too. A bit more than $30 but I really like these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017KUC6XQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for getting back to me. Yes, there can be a small or a huge difference between the blade and the flat part. Usually it's the difference between 1.7515 and 1.75 inches from blade to flat.
I'm just getting into reload/custom loading and my buddy suggested this, it's real cheap but works perfectly for OAL, diameter, etc,
Clockwise Tools DCLR-0605 Electronic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018D9JPPA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I highly recommend getting a decent set of digital calipers.
I use these at work:http://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419944639&sr=8-1&keywords=mitoyo+digital+caliper
for around $100 they hold up well, easy to read and about as accurate as calipers can get (reasonably)
Twice your price range but I have these.
There is a great comparison video of several different calipers in the reviews. Some of which I think are in your price range.
Digital calipers! There are other methods, and certainly better calipers than this, but these are way more than enough to get yourself started for cheap. I have two nice sets of calipers, but at one point I just bought four of these and keep one in my office at home, one at work, one in the garage, and one more just stashed in a drawer because I use them all the time: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Calipers&qid=1564629857&s=gateway&sr=8-3
For this print all I did was measure the diameter of the cable and the diameter of the knockout. That was enough to give me all the info I needed.
Wow, I've never seen a nozzle temp that high for PLA.
I've considered going at a lower temp for the build plate. I'll try that.
The Buildtak is very similar to the original Ender surface.
I'm going to order this Caliper, I think. Comes with a set of gagues so maybe that will help.
https://www.amazon.ca/Neoteck-Stainless-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B074M6LX1N/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1536243511&sr=8-4&keywords=caliper
Get a pair of calipers, this will confirm all you measurements. Good luck!!
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000GSLKIW
To add to the others, get a nice set of calipers if you don't already have some. I prefer digital, and they are relatively inexpensive. I have this pair, and they work great for taking precise measurements. Spending a bunch of time modeling and then printing only for the parts not to fit is such a buzzkill.
Neiko 01407A Stainless Steel Electronic Digital Caliper with Extra Large LCD Screen | 0-6 Inches | Inch/Fractions/Millimeter Conversion https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nRh8Ab09Q96YR
Most definitely. I find new uses for it all the time and they were pretty cheap!
iGaging IP54 Electronic Digital Caliper 0-6" Display Inch/Metric/Fractions Stainless Steel Body https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AQEZ2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_saf8ybK2EF6Y9
Find the best looking Brown and Sharpe used dial caliper on ebay. I think I paid $35 and it is still mint and the movement is silky smooth. Your mileage will vary though.
But if I were you, I'd just save up and drop some coin on a Mitutoyo digital. A new standard 6" is $100 right now.
https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468330954&sr=8-3&keywords=mitutoyo+digital+caliper
Agree with check the clutch cable first (simple things first always). If at the point where you're sure that it's not the cable, it's not hard to pull a clutch, drain the oil, pull the cover off, take the clutch springs off and then plates (pay attention to orientation). At this point do two things. Take a pair of mics and measure the thickness in three places on each clutch disc. Then make sure your steels are flat by putting them on a flat surface and try to slide a feeler gauge between the plate and surface.
I like the igaging stuff. iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - IP54 Protection / Extreme Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ZQERAbVQDZTS9
It’s won a lot of caliper shootouts on YouTube.
I use this model from iGaging. It's for home use so I didn't need to buy a Mitutoyo or anything but the 4.6 star reviews on amazon are well-deserved. I'm impressed with them.
I use an [Electronic Digital Caliper like this one] (https://smile.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491858601&sr=8-3&keywords=micrometer) and recommend you get one in your kit. Used several times in building the MK2S as well as calibrations later on.
This is the caliper that I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
I wish I bought a 3mm hexdriver so that I did not have to use the hex key.
My biggest tip would be to pre-install or thread the screws in first when installing any screw to the frame. The threads need to be cleaned of the powder coat. This will make installing anything to the frame go much smoother.
Other than that use the online manual read the directions clearly and read the comments, they are very helpful.
Torque wrench
Socket set
Hex sockets
1/2 inch Ratchet
1/4 inch Ratchet
Combo wrench set
Calipers
Chain tool
Pretty close to everything you'll ever need to work on a bike, besides specialty tools. Buy or borrow other stuff when the issue comes up! You can do it!!
Edit: Added calipers.
I suggest getting two things that helped a ton with my prusa:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQR7TU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1417042163&sr=1-1&keywords=caliper
Building from scratch is really great because you then have a mental framework for diagnosing when something goes wrong. Have fun.
I'm a cnc machinist and these impressed me a lot. I highly recommend them for anyone's shop
I started with a pair from harbor freight, but then decided I wanted something a little more substantial, so got these off of Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and moved the HF pair out to the garage. These iGaging ones do feel more substantial.
If it's a relatively simple shape, you can measure it up with some calipers and be on your way. For most 3d printing applications you don't need to go drop a bunch of money on some Mitutoyo or other "high end" calipers; These would do just fine.
Another trick for something with a lot more shapes to it, is to take a picture of it as squarly straight down as you can with a ruler next to it, so you can import the image as a 'canvas' into your modeling software, scale it until an inch on the ruler equals an inch in the software, and then you can trace the shapes up pretty well that way without having to do a ton of reiteration. Just keep material shrinkage etc in mind when you go to print if you're using a material susceptible to that.
I got a nice digital one on Amazon for about $20. There are cheaper ones but I really like the digital readout.
If you want fractional inches get these and not the other ones, I have two pairs and they are very good quality, I beat on one pair and it still reads accurately, I check it with gauge blocks regularly. If you aren’t going to use fractional inches then the other ones are fine as well, your choice.
Link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KUC6XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_QDKNDbHGK45N4
Digital Calipers
If you want a medium-range one i.e. good enough but replaceable for everyday/student use, my research led me to these. They have a unique display with large-format decimal in/mm as well as full-format fractions (of an inch). From Clockwise Tools:
It is not a clone of the cheaply-mass-produced ones, or a clone of the other one or two styles.
I've had my eye on them for a while but then my friend's drill was stolen off the porch or garage when it was half open. So until I talk with the door-to-door flyer distributors, I should put that first...
I'd buy something like this. It's just an example, probably better ones available, it's just the first one that came up.
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1405012283&sr=1-1&keywords=vernier+digital
Overextrusion would only change if you modify your E steps per mm. You should not do this, though, without proper measurement. To calibrate E steps per mm, you mark off 100mm of the filament and tell the printer to extrude 100mm of the filament. Then, see what difference it actually extruded, and adjust your steps fractionally to compensate.
As for your XY steps per mm, you cannot do it without calipers. Pick up a nice pair, like these
Start by reading the FAQ at /r/reloading. Make sure you have a look see at a reloading manual or two as well.
Bare minimum equipment you will need is:
Press
Dies for your caliber
Calipers
Scale
Lube
I started with a Lee Challenger kit which is $116 and has everything you will need, minus a set of calipers for about $25. I also got a digital scale and a tumbler. All in you will be about $200 or so to start pumping out rounds.
These Neikos from Amazon are fine. I have two: one for reloading and one for printing. Any nicer would be overkill. Starretts and Mitutoyos are great, but the clearances 3d printing deals with just don't need that much accuracy; I've found my cheapish ones to be +/- 0.01ish mm, so being conservative and calling it 0.02mm, it's still close enough that my filament diameter measurements end up being spot on.
>Harbor Frieght calipers
Whenever I hear/see someone using these, I show this alternative.
They're no B&S or Mitutoyo, but they are soooo much better than those HF jobs while being cheap enough that you can travel with them without (monetary) fear of them getting damaged/lost/confiscated.
Using a digital caliper on the clamp area is the best way to measure it if you can't find the spec somewhere online. I recall my 2009 Pista having a 26.0 handlebar clamp diameter.
Cinelli Peppers are cool, but you can't go wrong with Nitto either.
Mitutoyo 500-196-30 Advanced... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IG46NL2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share This is a great set of calipers
https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-Advanced-Absolute-Digital-Caliper/dp/B00WMKUUAQ I've been using a set of these professionally for the last 20 years, they're awesome. I used to be an automotive prototype fabricator and this is what I used to measure parts being machined, etc..
Unless your boyfriend is a machinist, go with the calipers all day long. Mic's are for very precise measurement of specific items and are much less versatile for everyday use. You'll notice that most micrometers will only measure 1 inch, so if you actually need to use them you will often you'll have a set of many mics that measure 0-1", 1-2", 2-3"... ect. Whereas calipers measure 0-6 inches and are much faster (but do sacrifice some accuracy).
So as for calipers, Mitutoyo's are pretty hot right now. This is the pair my wife bought me a few years ago and I couldn't be happier:
https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1550246576&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=mitutoyo+caliper&psc=1
If you want to shop around make sure that you get either a Mitutoyo, Brown and Sharpe, or Starrett brand.
Snap On does not make all their own tools. It wouldn't surprise me if the Snappy set is just a re branded starrett. The boxes look identical. That being said, what kind of work do you do? I do a lot of structures and I barely use my combination set. I use the shit out on my little 4" square. Unless you're in a machine shop I think the big name sets are way overkill.
I mostly use a 6", 18" scale, a 4" Combination square, and a Mitutoyo Caliper
I know what sub i'm in but seriously dude:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW
You have to factor in the value of your own time.
Cool fix anyway.
I just bought some calipers from Amazon for about $30. Can someone explain to me how these Mitutoyo calipers that cost >$100 are better than my $30 ones?
What WayGroovy said.
I picked up This Pair
They are pretty nice and affordable. I would stay away from the 20 dollar throwaways. They are more trouble than they are worth.
Bought this one and works wonderfully.
Some of the less intuitive acccessories I've found helpful:
Here's the tools I use most frequently in 3d printing and assembly - I suspect you'll have most of these from modelling work:
It's $160, but this has been the best I've used for reliability and precision, and I suspect anything sub-50 will be mostly garbage if you don't want springy/unreliable calipers.
Edit: Amazon link for $115
Mitutoyo is the right answer. You can't go wrong there.
If you want a cheaper solution, I've heard good things about these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_02MAyb2RWWRKM
I've used many pairs of $10 calipers and sometimes they work fine. When they don't it's pretty disappointing. What might you waste/ruin by cutting something the wrong size? How long would it take to make back the extra $30? $100?
Electric could be .011 too as I told my guy I play heavy last time I got my les paul set up. No idea what's on the Jaguar but I think they might be .008s? I like a light touch on fenders.
Either way I'd rather spend $17 on the tool and get the job done than buy a $20-$30 in electric strings and $10-15 in acoustic strings, and then throw most of them away.
I got this caliper recently and have found it to be excellent for the money.
What's your budget? The cheapo $20 dial calipers I have work pretty well, actually. Good enough for me, but I'm not a machinist.
Poke around the local pawn shops. I got a Mitutoyo 500-196 digital caliper for $60 from my local pawn shop.
Otherwise, they're $124 on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Stainless-Digital-Caliper-Extra-Large/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1311244096&sr=1-2
These will cover most small objects. They have different lengths for different things, so pick whatever suits you. Have fun!
I just started about six months ago, and I thought I would add some pretty un-sexy things to the list... but Im so happy with them
Silicone Glue Brushes Are completely reuseable
Digital caliper Since grabbing this I have used it countless times when making cuts to match
Edit: Apparently I can't bullet point :(
I dont have experience with printrbot, but i used tom's guide from youtube to do my calibrating. Just watch his video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y
Depends on the software for real time changes. I use octoprint. I know repetier host is really good also. If you do that, just set it as 100 in the slicer, then adjust in real time so you know what your setting should be always.
If you dont have a pair of calipers get these to measure the outside diameter of your filament, that may be why you have to adjust your extrusion. if the diameter is bigger, then it is shoving for plastic in thatn it really should.
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Extra-Large/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451996465&sr=8-1&keywords=caliper
I am a toolermaker by trade, and i actually use these everyday in the shop. I stopped using my expensive ones and just use these now.
http://www.amazon.com/SE-784EC-Digital-Caliper-Metric/dp/B003MA08VQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453590190&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=digital+caliper&psc=1
=)
EDIT: I really suggest staying away from plastic calipers. There are metal calipers that are similarly priced and will last much much longer and are higher quality.
I usually recommend these from Harbor Freight because they do fractions:
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-with-sae-and-metric-fractional-readings-63731.html
And these from Amazon because the quality is much higher for a very good price, but they don't do fractions.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS
I use both depending on what room I'm in.
Yep. But if you build the kit yourself:
This press
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Reloading-Press-Md-90045/dp/B002SF4X5I/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1497553125&sr=1-1&keywords=lee+press
Dies
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-30-RGB-Die/dp/B000N8LHQK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1497553143&sr=1-4-fkmr0&keywords=lee+press+RGB
Scale
https://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-Digital-Scale-sensitivity/dp/B0012LOQUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497553166&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+scale
Calipers
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497553204&sr=8-3&keywords=calipers
Priming Tool
https://www.amazon.com/LEE-LP90106-Lee-Precision-Prime/dp/B00162UGQE/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1497553314&sr=1-7&keywords=priming+tool
... and a few other small things, you should be under $100 dies included.
Don't use the printed manual for assembly, use the online manual. Before doing each step, read the comments made by previous buyers. If you see a lot of comments on a particular step, call it a night and wait until you're fresh before proceeding.
I also recommended getting digital calipers. If you're made out of money, get a Mitutoyo.
FWIW, I've been impressed with these for the price.
I picked up this digital caliper from Amazon about 3 years ago, indispensable for this sort of thing. Make sure you measure in several places around the filament and average. Filament is rarely round.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PTGBR6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One machine screw with a spring washer and three sheet metal screws. Buy these:
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/
You can take a pretty close guess at exactly what the screw specifications are without them, but they're cheap, very useful and will tell you exactly what the screws are.
They're insanely useful in DIY projects, and many cost under $20. Here's the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I watched this video and it convinced to me to buy an iGaging OriginCal digital caliper.
For the record, those digital calipers aren't made by Frankford, but are re-branded. You can get the same set "made" by several different companies but cheaper, like this set.
Not that there's anything wrong with the Frankford ones. Just pointing it out in case you were interested in saving a few dollars.
How To Measure Your IPD covers it pretty well. I used Digital Calipers that I already happened to own (not the exact ones linked, however), but you can use a regular ruler to do it.
Should probably pick up a pair of rotor calipers to measure them accurately so you get the most out of them. Something like this:
Anytime Tools Disc Brake Rotor Caliper Digital Electronic Gauge Gage Micrometer 0-2.5"/0.0005" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Y1OWKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RvU4yb42MT4DP
If you want to go cheap, buy harbor freight. They'll be just fine for this application.
If you want the bees knees, the ones that will last a lifetime, buy Mitutoyo. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_15BWzbPF2TE7R
Smooth surfaces on all rotors, you'll need a rotor measuring caliper to know for sure. There is a specified minimum thickness, which is often stamped onto the rotor, wither the hat (the raised portion where the hub is) or the outer rim of the disc. At the thinnest part the rotors should be thicker than the min specified.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_pLbZDbZK580M6
Had mine for about 2 years. It has been reliable and repeatable. I haven't put it on a calibration block set but everything I've used it for has fit together as expected.
If there is a second set screw and you have a set of calipers and a thread pitch guage handy, you can remove the second set screw and measure the major diameter which is your nominal thread size, overall length of the screw and the thread pitch. It will also likely be a "cup point" set screw, not a "dog point" or anything else crazy.
Otherwise, find a local machine shop to help you determine what you need, or a gunsmith to take care of everything.
so im looking to get into 3d Printing, and unless someone has some better option, im going with the MP Select Mini.
My question is on the other things i need. Here is the list of the things im looking to buy along with the printer:
I have a set of exacto knives and a screw bit set. Is there anything else im missing?
If you're doing any kind of modeling of real life objects, it might be worth your while to buy a digital caliper so you can make your own measurements, especially if you need more specific ones after you get the initial ones in.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2hbgbL_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s
It's not that hard if you have the mind for it and don't mind watching a lot of videos. Fusion360 has all of the tutorials built right in and it's free software if you are a maker. You will need some tools to measure things and plan them in the real world. I bought this and it has been all I have needed so far, but I've mostly been printing board game things.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have this ~25 dollar iGaging:
https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W
For quick checks, sanity checks, basic stuff, etc. 20 dollar calipers are fine. My iGaging rarely disagrees with the calibrated Mitutoyo's in our quality department.
Funny coincidence... my <$20 caliper suffered a tragic "accident" in the shop today and is now NFG.
Here's a video that compares a bunch of digital calipers. If you don't want to spend $120+ on a Mitutoyo caliper, it sounds like the iGaging calipers are almost as good for less than half the price.
I just ordered the iGaging Absolute, expecting it to be decent.
Disagree on the digital calipers. I bought one of these last year:
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/
It's been perfect. Checked it against precision hole gauges. Held up great with abuse. And if it breaks someday, hey, $15.
I got some digital 4" off amazon made by a company called igaging, they measure the same and repeat just as well as my brown and sharpe calipers.
Here is the same thing I have but the 6" version. https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468282237&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=igaging
It's worth spending the $20 to buy a digital caliper (accurate to .001mm) to double check your work.
Here is the one i bought last time i had to rivet a master link:
Get a few of the cheap digital calipers. They're almost disposable, accurate enough for 95% of measurements, and if you need that extra accuracy on a final cut you should be using a good micrometer anyway.
You don't need a micrometer, just calipers with a wheel lock and 3 points after the decimal is fine
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/
I use these nearly everyday at a desk doing reverse engineering / 3d printing prototypes. They work fine for me
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sxts_k2p_hero1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=2668834182&amp;pd_rd_wg=cSyFv&amp;pf_rd_r=2SJYEW38AY5AGNBK2KCF&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&amp;pf_rd_t=301&amp;pd_rd_i=B000GSLKIW&amp;pd_rd_w=0nGkJ&amp;pf_rd_i=digital+calipers&amp;pd_rd_r=2VEACHX9JZMZ570M28R0&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479323368&amp;sr=1
https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-Advanced-Absolute-Digital-Caliper/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=dp_ob_title_def
Pretty much a staple in the engineering world.
I often have to check large amounts of Injection molded parts with 5-20 measurement point each. Usually each point 5-10 times to account for measuring errors. A quality digital caliper pays for itself in a day.
https://www.fishersci.com/shop/products/digital-calipers/nc1265765#?keyword=Calipers
$185
https://www.thorlabs.com/thorproduct.cfm?partnumber=DIGC6
Thorlabs price $150
https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1572896783&amp;refinements=p_89%3AMitutoyo&amp;s=industrial&amp;sr=1-1
Amazon price $108
You can see the price difference by cutting out 2 extra middlemen.
Search "digital calipers" just about anywhere, here is one on Amazon, for example.
This
http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Breech-Lock-Press/dp/B0050Z5A6E
Plus this
http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-45-Die-Steel/dp/B000N8QLNE/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462373534&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=45-70+dies
Then a caliper
http://www.amazon.com/SE-784EC-Digital-Caliper-Metric/dp/B003MA08VQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462373575&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=digital+caliper&amp;psc=1
All that is left is primers, powder and projectiles.
you can clean your old brass is dish soap and a small wire brush from a gun cleaning kit
Measure it with calipers.
If you don't have any, buy a pair.
Your flow rate does look high. I do 95%. I think that Simplify3D might even default to 90% for PLA. The stuff expands a lot.
Eyy~ You'll likely want one of these~ A digital caliper / micrometer.
Here’s an example of what you’ll need to measure your rotor thickness if you want. digital caliper
There totally are.
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397511458&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=digital+micrometer
Get a set of decent calipers. You'll need them for all sorts of stuff and they aren't going to wear out. Plus they're so cheap it's almost a non-issue.
Calipers: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=lp_256411011_1_1/178-3815067-2714000?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1394071937&amp;sr=1-1
I use them around the house all the time (and only once to measure my peen)
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=lp_256411011_1_1/181-2774076-5213117?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408725491&amp;sr=1-1
This is my current plan, tell me what you think I should do different.
Press
Bullet puller
Scale
Dies
Caliper
Book
Tumbler
Media
Media Seperator
Case Prep Tool
Trimmer And also the needed shell holder
calipers
How about some measuring calipers.
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493316915&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=6%22+digital+caliper
Cheap electronic calipers are cheap. And they're incredibly handy.
Get a cheap digital caliper and get modeling!
I use basically this (probably a different brand, but likely made in the same factory):
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482953396&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=digital+micrometer
There are less expensive ones. I use mine all the time though, not just for vaping hardware.
And not more precise or accurate, see https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/ with the same accuracy.
Some time ago, I posted a set of Caliper Extenders for the Neiko 150mm digital calipers. I just added to the Thingiverse file a storage slot to glue onto the Caliper Case. It sort of snaps in, but obviously requires some glue. I'm using E6000.
Looking at my toolbox, here was something I bought so I could measure the trunks and keep a log over the years...https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have yet to start that log but I did use it to measure a drill bit size.
Get a caliper:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2hbgbL_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&amp;pf_rd_r=X8J846GSRS6NS60FW29R&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1a8eac19-c971-50dd-a67f-89fb6ce5ef10&amp;pf_rd_i=2476630011
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/