Reddit mentions: The best digital-to-analog converters

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> does newegg tend to have cyber monday deals? building a whole new rig for the second time, and a couple sales on parts actually end on sunday, so I was wondering if I should just order them now.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9w82oo/

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> Hi everyone.
>
> will any simple/cheap/ rgb strip sync to my mobo MSI x470 gaming , as long as i plug it directly on the rgb dedicated pins on the mobo? and what about usb hubs? would they still sync up just trough the mobo? i have their mystic light app, so far i only used for the rgb on the mobo itself

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wben8/

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> I bought a Cooler Master - MasterLiquid Lite 120 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
> And I'm looking for an installation video to help me with it. Otherwise I'll have to get my brothers friends to help install it and he want like $50 to put my PC together. All I need help with is the liquid cooler cause I've never put one in before.
>
> Anyone know any good videos to help?


/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wem45/

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> Hi. I have the ability to purchase an old Xeon E5420 Dell Desktop, with new SSD and 8GBs of RAM for cheap. Does anyone use it still? How does it hold for browsing the web, mainly more demanding websites like perhaps Cloud9 which I intend to develop on.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wkvc0/

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> Got. Mobo. For a old machine. Pull working parts from another machine to test it. Everything is install correctly . but. It not wanting to tirn on. After it was on last night
>


/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wlax0/

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> I'm looking for a place where I can buy last year's computers or laptops. I figure that last year's $1000 laptop is now $700 somewhere in the internet. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wnpld/

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> I built a PC last year with a 1080 Ti, i7 CPU, monitor is AW3418DW. I haven’t done anything to make it look good though. What’s a good site or YouTube channel that goes into ideas and the process of “pimping out” a PC? I’m talking RGB, color schemes, accessories, etc. I don’t know where to start.
>
> Thank you.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wz0dl/

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> Among other drives, I have two 6TB WD Reds for media storage for a Plex server. I use Backblaze for online backups as it has no storage limit, but even with the best consumer internet in my area, obviously a backup can take a while. I would like to have a second local storage drive specifically for a media backup.
>
> So the question - what is the best 12+ TB internal drive now, specifically from the standpoint of reliability? Cost is a near secondary concern, with performance being by far last.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x16vl/

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> Where is the most reliable place to buy replacement keyboard keys for a laptop? Some of them seem kind of sketch

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x5qzv/

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> Decided to upgrade my graphics card. I decided to go ahead and grab a 1080ti until I saw how inflated the prices have become since I last checked. It looks like a used 1080ti is a similar price to the 2080. Should I just grab a used 1080ti or buy a brand new 2080?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x5w55/

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> Is there any way to get audio input/output from my ps4 and my PC at the same time? I have a pair of HyperX Cloud IIs, I bought this splitter thing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/
>
> And this cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/
>
> I thought this would work and I'm almost certain I have it all set up right but my PC and ps4 won't recognize it. Any help is greatly appreciated.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x5zb5/

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> In your guys opinion, whats the coolest case I could get for around $100-200?
>
> Last year, I built a very budget and compact PC with a small case so that I could easily take it to friends houses. (worked better than I thought) Soon im going to be getting a laptop, so I have no need for a small case and was thinking, why not go all out and get a nice, fancy RGB case? I have always wanted to do one of those rainbow-puke builds, think its possible to do that for around $100-200 including RGB fans and light strips and all that?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x8x6j/

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> Is the aorus b450 mini itx board good? How is it compared to the asus board.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xb5fp/

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> I'm needing a bit of help with my new GPU. Just yesterday I upgraded to a Asus Strix 2080 OC edition card, and now I'm getting a D3D9 error on a hat in time. I've tried everything I've seen from forums, and nothing works. Any tips to get it running? Everything is up to date, so how do I get it to run?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xbm5i/

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>
> https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/WqZRyX Looking at building this in the next few weeks, for my little cousin. Slowly buying everything as they go on sale. Since it's a windowed case, was thinking of putting some RGB parts in it - what are some cheap ways of doing that? Fans? Will those be compatible with my case/motherboard?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xdcg6/

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> lets say i wanted to start a youtube tech channel and a twitch channel. the requirements are, for twitch it just needs to have a stand and preferably have hardware that can minimize outside sound. for youtube, it needs to have the ability to record how loud pc components (and keyboard) are when being stress tested. i was thinking the yeti mic, but maybe there might be a better mic, idk.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xgx6f/

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> So i got a weird kind of thing
>
> So my Logitech G403 mouse that replaced my Razer Deathadder (because of the infamous DoubleClick bug that appeared a month after i bought it (dont buy razer mice!)) the mousewheel on my G403 started to freak out after a couple of weeks of use. Randomly scrolling up or down.
>
> Thing is i use Linux, in my workplace they also use Linux so it took me a few weeks until i could do a firmware upgrade to fix the bug (firmware update is windows/mac only) but that didnt fix the bug. The Mousewheel kept being random. Until a couple of days ago when i noticed that it is less random then usual...and it only got better and the bug is all but gone now.
>
> I dont understand this.
>
> Why did the Firmware update needed time to gestate? What is going on?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xvbea/

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> Hi there.
>
> I need a new keyboard and as I'm waiting for black friday week promotion, I can't choose between Logitech G513 and the new Razer BlackWidow Elite.
>
> ​
>
> What's your point of view ?
>
> ​
>
> Edit : One more : A friend is playing on a 21:9 34" monitor (3440*1440). I'm thinking of upgrading to it and then see the 38" (3840*1600) that exists. Is it enjoyable ? I certainly need a high end GPU to handle all of those pixels. Will my i5 4690 (4 core@3.5GHtz) be bottlenecked for those two screen size ?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9y73tw/

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> Hey guys I just bought a new pc on parts and I think I messed up. I bought a segotep sg-k8 case (with bottom mounted psu) and a psu (seasonic M12II-520) that is supposed to be top mounted.... I can still mount the psu in the case but I have to flip it upside down. Is that a problem? Thank you very much...

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9y809h/

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First, everyone saying you won't hear a difference, is full of it. Not a difference from 24/48 to 24/96 mind you, but you WILL hear a difference going from whatever DAC and amplification your monitor is supplying your headphones, to equipment designed solely to perform these tasks. The jump from the monitor to even a dragonfly will be huge, but the jump to end game level equipment like THX AAA amps and a high quality DAC like a Geshelli labs, or SMSL SU-8 will be life changing, and you'll go down a path that will lead to you spending way too much money on headphones. I'm currently on this path, and it's glorious, but your family/friends might think you're insane for spending thousands on headphones.

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You need a DAC and amp. I don't know how seriously you are taking sound quality, but there are a number of combo units that are fairly cheap, probably best for your situation if money is tight, being a student I know the struggles, so you should get the Audioquest Dragonfly. It's a DAC and amp in one tiny USB stick sized device, supports 24/96 (I think that's its highest supported quality) and it's only $99. There are other versions that are better, and more expensive, but if you're gonna spend more than 100$, or want some reference for the future then.....well, read the rest of my comment.

Audioquest Dragonfly https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI?th=1

​

​

If you are willing to spend a little more, and are a little more serious about headphones, I recommend the JDS Labs atom headphone amp, it's VERY good especially at the 100$ price point. As far as dac just get something like a Schiit Modi 3, also 100$.

JDS Labs Atom amp https://jdslabs.com/product/atom-amp/

Schiit Modi 3 DAC https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Modi-Converter-Delta-Sigma-DAC/dp/B07KWHWV1M/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=schiit+modi+3&qid=1569914940&sr=8-1

​

If you're really serious about headphone quality, and want end game level equipment, and money is no object I recommend the THX AAA amps, they are superb and vastly outperform anything else on the market in terms of harmonic distortion and noise floor. They are a bit hard to get right now because of demand, massdrop isn't shipping their 789's out until late November, and Monoprice isn't getting their new model 887 in until around the same time. The only option is to buy used, but everyone is asking for a small premium because of the scarcity, and demand. They're 400$ MSRP, used it's like 420-450. Monoprice has another model however, it's the one I currently have and I LOVE it, it's a balanced DAC and balanced AMP in one unit, and it's 500$, the Monolith THX AAA 788. With it you don't need anything else, and it sounds....well it sounds like whatever you're listening to, because it has such low levels of distortion (well below what is even noticeable by human hearing), it's truly source perfect.

As far as DAC to pair with something like a THX amp, there are a number of options, but Geshelli labs makes a good balanced DAC that's only $180 I believe (if you go balanced amp, like the THX, you'll need a balanced DAC to get balanced output, and you'll need a balanced cable from your headphones to the amp)

The Monolith THX 788 DAC/AMP https://www.amazon.com/Monolith-124459-Headphone-Amplifier-Technology/dp/B07KQW1WFX/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=monolith+thx&qid=1569914858&sr=8-1

Drop THX 789 AMP https://drop.com/buy/drop-thx-aaa-789-linear-amplifier

Geshelli Labs balanced DAC https://geshelli.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fenog2-pro-dac-purple-case

After I finished building my PC, I still wanted to build but had nothing else to put into it... so I went a little buck with the peripherals.

Mouse: Cyborg R.A.T 9

I got this mouse for two reasons: it's extremely ergonomic, versatile and comfortable to use and it looks like it could probably transform into a Decepticon.

Keyboard: Razer Blackwidow 2012 Ultimate

The keyboard was actually a gift, I have really enjoyed everything about it though. Besides the glossy finish that does get really mucked up, I have no complaints.

Mousepad: Razer Goliathus Extended; Control Edition

I wanted my mouse and keyboard to both be on my mousepad so I opted for this giant ass thing. It's worked really well for me, besides collecting crumbs when I snack and game...

Speakers: Audioengine A5+ Bamboo Edition

Picked these guys up for a steal, they sounds completely phenomenal. Owning these speakers kind of pushed me into the world of high end audio, which eventually lead to me getting my DAC and my headphones.

DAC: Audioengine D1 DAC & Integrated Amplifier

Got the DAC here on Massdrop for like 40% off or something, I've found that it really rounds out the low end of the speakers and gives them more transparency overall.

Headphones: Sennheiser HD598s

I can't speak highly enough of these headphones. If you're into electro or metal, these probably aren't for you merely because of the fact that they are a very neutral sounding set of cans. The low end is definitely there, but it's not pounding and overpowering like many other headphones I've owned. I still swap over to my old HD408's for anything I want to rattle my skull with.

Headphone Stand: Cheap Knockoff of the Seivking Omega stand

Same thing, off Massdrop for a good price. It's a cheap Chinese version of a very high end stand but it has actually been really nice to keep my headphones on and compliments the speakers really well.

Headset: SteelSeries Siberia v2 Frost

Very comfortable headset, and really good surround effects on them. I could always tell where Elizabeth was in Bioshock Infinite because they have great directional sound.

I'm also running 2 of these fans on my desk to keep everything nice and cool during those hot summer days. Throw some LED accent lighting, a couple of USB hubs and some monitor mounts and you've pretty much got everything that sits on my desk.

Oh, and I almost forgot the best part! It probably gets the most use of any of my peripherals =]

Hope this helps your decision! I would certainly recommend a mechanical keyboard, you'll never go back after you've tried one out and there's many inexpensive options for them out there!

Jesus, this turned into a really long comment...

i have this little amp with some small book shelf speakers and i love it http://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-LP-2020A-Lepai-Amplifier-Shipping/dp/B00FOK6974/ref=sr_1_5?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1405229745&sr=1-5&keywords=hifi+mini+amp best 20 bucks spent

and these are the small speakers i use to check mixes out in the living room and sometimes just to enjoy some tunes while cooking (condo, living room or kitchen? the lines blur),.they sound fair for the price
http://www.amazon.com/PLMR24-3-5-Inch-Weather-Speaker-System/dp/B001CXXDBM/ref=pd_sim_MI_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=12SZHXF0FR2DA98B7T3Y with a separate amp you can always upgrade the speakers.

these are 3 way but a little less cheap http://www.amazon.com/Dual-LU43PW-Indoor-Outdoor-Speakers/dp/B000A5S926/ref=pd_cp_e_0.

when it comes to near fields, to do actual pro work, for a good price, i went with the blue sky exo2.1 , they are full range with the sub, shielded because they are made for the desk, no bass reflex port on the satellites (the sound from the port holes comes out delayed, bad for mixing, unless very well engineered) and the woofer has separate control so you can turn it down because small rooms amp up the low end, all for for 500 bills (the price to value ratio is great, no doubt). if you find them used, the price is even lower. blue sky products are legit and you will have no need to buy monitors for a long, long time. i would save up, like 20 bucks every other day or so and in no time, you will have a legit, full range monitoring system that will gets even better with a little room treatment. all i know is "buy cheap, buy twice" http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/eXo2/

next is the equator d5 with dsp. i have not heard these live yet, but sometimes they are on sale direct from equator and they seem great on paper for the price http://www.equatoraudio.com/D5-Coaxial-Studio-Monitors-p/d5.htm but since i have not heard them like i have with my blue skies, i cant be anecdotal. here is a sound on sound review for a pro break down of their performance http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/dec12/articles/equator-d5.htm

and if you want to save money and have a truly great output to feed any monitor for 50 bucks, try the hifime diy sabre dac http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMeDIY-Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical/dp/B00AOH5JTQ/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405237210&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=hifi+diy+dac, i using it now in between digital to analog converter upgrades and if you plug right out of the usb port on the computer (no hubs) it sounds great, like really even compared to dac's in several price ranges above. read the first review, http://www.amazon.com/review/RIXL3WSR02G6/ref=cm_cr_rdp_perm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00AOH5JTQ you will get a little smarter about digital analog converters. its one of the best reviews on amazon i have ever had the pleasure to read, and check out the users other reviews, he does a few headphone units comparing their price to performance ratio and will blow you away with his technical know how and fluid writing style. like the one on the Beyerdynamic DT-990-Pro: http://www.amazon.com/review/R2BUTFCE473Q9V/ref=cm_cr_rdp_perm

i dont know much about recording gear, as im mostly a listener, i use an adc/dac from behringer and it sounds decent for 30 bucks and no drivers http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA222-U-Control-Ultra-Low-Downloadable/dp/B0023BYDHK/ref=sr_1_2?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1405238098&sr=1-2&keywords=behringer+dac
sounds better than a tascam i had, that was overbuilt and 3-4 times the price. i choose this not be cheap, my focus is just on listening, it was what i wanted.

sorry about the long post but i dont half ass my posts. its like playing those brain training apps for me but not boring and actually productive/practical. take care. my hands are injured, so im not bothering with punctuation and formatting!

I also have HS5's and I got the 2i2 on sale for $100. I got it mostly for the outputs for the monitors, but I felt wrong using a cheap dac with such expensive speakers. I previously had a Fiio D3 dac and used the 1/8" output to a 4 channel headphone amp, and then split one of the outputs from that to 1/4" jacks for each of the monitors. I didn't need a 4 channel amp, I just wanted a way to use headphones with separate volume control. That worked just fine honestly. Still great sound, I just like the simplicity and premium-ness of the Scarlett. Plus it's really nice to have a headphone jack on the front of the interface, where with my previous setup it was on the back of the amp. I also use an xlr mic to chat every now and then with friends when I play games, so that's nice. But that doesn't seem to apply to your situation. So if you want MUCH better quality than your motherboard's sound card, go with the Fiio and a couple adapters. It's also worth noting that the Fiio I mentioned only has optical toslink and coaxial input. If you motherboard doesn't have digital audio, you're out of luck for it. The usb on it is purely for power. But I'm sure there are nice usb dacs at a decent price too. If any of this doesn't make sense or you need more help, just let me know, I'd be happy to help or clarify! :D

Edit: also nice to see someone else on the Yamaha team. I am absolutely in love with mine. Worth every penny

Edit2: I actually use the xlr inputs on the monitors, even when I used unbalanced connections. I like how much beefier xlr connections are than 1/4". But that's purely personal preference. They worked just fine though

Last edit, I promise. I don't recommend using a super cheap dac like a $6 one. You spent $400 on monitors, get something decent or you might be wasting the potential of those monitors. The Fiio is $30, so try to aim for something around that.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3C/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_8KJ7wb98HJERG
And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_MLJ7wbBXAEYJ0

And you'll be set

So many points to hit on, I'll try and help with that I can. I'm in the US so I'm not really sure what the pricing and availability is in your area, so my help will be somewhat limited haha.

If you are wanting to do a 2.0 system with the option to upgrade to 5.1 in the future, much of your budget will be going towards a 5.1 receiver. The suggestions mentioned in question 1 are good suggestions, but you also need to take a look at your TV and see what audio out connections are available. Some TV's, like mine for instance, only offer an optical out for audio. If this is the case for you, then the SMSL SA-60 will not work without a DAC in between. Something like the Fiio D3 would suffice. Also, chances are if you go this route, you will lose the ability to control the volume with the TV remote. Getting something like the SMSL Q5 Pro instead might be a better option. It can accept multiple audio inputs (digital and
analog, so no need for a DAC), and also has a cheap remote for controlling volume and other stuff. You can also use the Q Acoustic Speakers with these amps as well. However, either of these amps would have to be replaced in the future if you decide to upgrade to 5.1. But they would be great for a 2.1 setup.

In the US, with that budget (300 euro = $335) and a future 5.1 in mind; I would get a Pioneer VSX-530 Receiver ($200), and the Micca MB42X Speakers ($90). Then I would start saving for a subwoofer like the Bic F12 or ML Dynamo 300 (depending on the size of the room). Once I had a sub, I would then save up for better bookshelfs (3 of them...something like empteks or elacs or who knows what), and relocate the Micca MB42X's to the rear. This would be a a respectable 5.1 setup that will blow away pretty much any home theater in a box.

Anyways, hope I was of at least some help. Best of luck with your setup!

I've heard of their 3020, but supposedly the Concept 20 is the same driver in a different cabinet? The What HiFi review makes it sound like the cabinet alone is worth the price difference. That could be true, but I am not going to rely on their word for it. I think it would be best if you could arrange for an audition or, better still, buy them with a good return policy so you can send them back if you are not satisfied with them. This is the most reliable way you could test out 2 speakers because you know best what is important for you. As for bass, it is also part of the music and I feel a faithful reproduction is essential to the experience. I do not own a subwoofer myself because I am satisfied with my MB Quart 490 and their 7.5" woofer. The bass is present but not overpowering at all and it makes all the difference when listening to Pink Floyd or The Coup.

Anyway, what I meant was the audio files will be converted from digital to analog at one point. In your case, it would be the PC's onboard solution. Now, depending on your PC, your onboard solution could be great or it could suck (distortion/constant hum etc.) ! To get around this some people use the digital output on their PC (USB/HDMI/Optical) and the conversion is performed using another device. Since usually stereo amplifiers do not have any way of accepting digital input, the go-to choice is a separate DAC like Fiio D03K / Behringer UCA202. Some people also a get a headphone DAC like Fiio E10K because they need a portable amp for their headphone in addition to a DAC. Others may need more than just a DAC - for example there could be a need to take the HDMI input and send the video to a TV and the audio to speakers. This is where a receiver comes in. A receiver is basically an amp + many more options for inputs, but it could be overkill if you only need a DAC. Used receivers could be cheap, though, and they are quite popular because of the input options you get. Goes without saying that you may not need a separate DAC at all, but just something to consider.

Phew! Hope that helps! :)

A decent system if it all works. The turntable is just OK, but perhaps that's all you need.

The Key to a turntable is the Tone Arm and Cartridge (stylus/needle). Your turntable appears to be a P-Mount, meaning the entire Cartridge assembly just plugs into the tone arm. There are many replacement P-Mount cartridge available. The tone arm look like a generic DJ tone arm similar to that found on Stanton, Technics, Audio Tecnica, and Reloop. That's not the absolute best, but still decent; no problems.

http://www.needledoctor.com/Audio-Technica-92ECD?sc=2&category=16684

http://www.needledoctor.com/Audio-Technica-311EP?sc=2&category=16684

This appears to be a more consumer version of Technics DJ turntables. And assuming it is in good condition, and well oiled, it is probably very good considering the price you paid.

Generally Technics are considered good equipment, and they are now re-entering the audio market again with a new line of equipment.

You can give us the model number of the amp and we will look up specs on it, or you can simply use Google to look up information on the amp. You should be able to determine the power, and the range of years in which it was made. If the amp is at least ~50w/ch, then it is most certainly worth having and using assuming it is in good working condition.

It is difficult to see the Amp Model number but the closest I can determine is SU-V78 - 100w/ch to 8 ohms.

http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/technics/su-v78.shtml

Oddly the Technics SU-V76 is also 100w/ch -

http://www.highqualitymanuals.com/images/large/products/HD/HD84//HD84_2.jpg

The AM/FM Tuner should still work, and will pick up radio stations just fine even with the most basic antenna.

The Cassette Player is an Antique unless by chance you still have a stack of Cassettes available to play.

The CD Player, assuming it still works should be fine as the standard for CD has been locked into place since its inception.

The speakers are fine; good sided. The key with older speakers is the Surrounds, the foam or rubber ring that attaches the actual cone to the frame. If foam these can deteriorate, and sometimes disintegrated over time. Gently touch or rub your finger on the surround and see if it is gritty or crumbling. If so the surrounds can be replaced for a fairly modest fee.

Given that you got this for FREE, there is one other aspect you could consider. It is possible to use a Stereo system to enhance the movie watching experience very considerably. However, modern TV do not have analog audio outputs, most have Digital Optical Audio out, though a few have Coaxial.

Given that you got a pretty nice system for free, you could spend some money, assuming you are into movie watching, and get a DAC (digital to analog converter) to allow you to plug the TV into the Stereo. These can range from about $25 for just the basic DAC, up to about $500 for a more complex multi-input DAC.

You can see a range of possibilities here -

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=DAC

The output of the TV is limited to a 48k Sample Rate about CD quality, so a very basic $25 DAC is probably adequate if you are not too serious.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468898121&sr=1-2&keywords=DAC

Some thing like this will give you one channel that is either Optical or Coaxial, another Coaxial only Channel, and USB-PC for connecting directly to a computer.

https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-Azur-DacMagic-100/dp/B0078Q35PG/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468898121&sr=1-10&keywords=DAC

The speakers, though I can really determine, appear to have at least 10" woofer, and they should sound pretty good. I think this will make a fine movie and music system.

hey cnobilski- I had a similar situation with my dad's old Technics SU-8088. Initially I was running it through a vizio 42"- which had the 1/8" out jack. Then i bought a samsung 55" 8000 series (for a steal of more than 50% off/$400 total @costco) but the 1/8" jack no longer worked for audio out.

After a LOT of rabbit-holing i bought a D.A.C. for $25 that allowed coaxial or tosilink in and has aux/headphone and rca out, and ended up working perfectly. The DAC also has a volume control - it needs to be plugged in, and does not amplify per se, but great functionality overall.

I'm not certain this is necessary for you specific situation- but may be useful if you need more choices for connectivity. 1/8" to tosilink cables are also available. I feel like the optical (tosilink) out provides good sound, but am unsure if adding an extra stage in the signal path (the DAC) lowers the quality and or optical source to analog improves the sound quality. There many more DACs that focus on HDMI in/out as well- but i was using the only HDMI out to feed my soundbar- not necessary now since I upgraded to Wharfedale Denton 80th speakers (not budget friendly, but...so worth it- i promptly returned my ELAC Debut 2.0 B6.2 Bookshelf Speakers- not even close)

Good luck and i hope this is somewhat useful or at least interesting to you. I love the warmth and overall sound of my 2.1 channel system now. It's incredibly satisfying and to echo what so many others newish to "upgraded" audio listening have said- I'm hearing all of my favorite music for the first time again.

PS- because my 8088 was always static-y and due to my ignorance, I wrongly assumed that technics was a bargain brand. Once i did a little research I realized what a monster HQ amp i had. Were you aware that you had such a HQ piece before you hooked it up?

It's not 50% faster, it just has 8 GB VRAM versus 6 GB VRAM. Games today don't even use that much so you're really talking about future gaming. Yes, if you keep raising your budget, you will get a faster computer and GPU. If you want to spend the extra money, then go for it. It's really not that big of a jump from 6 GB VRAM to 8 and definitely not worth the extra $400 in my opinion, but that's up to you. Remember, the mobile versions of GPUs are slower than the regular ones in desktops. You're looking at a 1060M 6 GB and 1070M 8 GB. I would save the money for a larger SSD, more RAM, good speakers or a good headset instead, and get the Asus GL502VM-DB74.

If you game and want good sound and use a headset/headphones check out the Sennheiser PC 363D headset (Amazon link) or the other Sennheiser gaming headsets. If you use speakers, check out the Micca MB42X (Amazon link). Make sure you use a DAC like the Schiit Modi 2 or DAC/amp like the Schiit Fulla 2 to get the best sound possible. (Fulla 2 is very new and not yet on Amazon, but you can still get the original Fulla from Amazon and other retailers. It's better to just buy the Fulla 2 from the Schiit website.) Some other good options are: Micca OriGen+, FiiO E10K, AudioQuest DragonFly / AudioQuest Dragonfly v1.2, Audioengine D3, SMSL M2, etc. Check out /r/BudgetAudiophile /r/Audiophile /r/Audio and /r/Headphones if you want more info. The great people there taught me a lot about quality audio. You can also check out /r/AVexchange for good audio deals.

I hope this is the right place to post this, but I'm looking to buy my first DAC/amp. I've only ever used desktop/laptop/phone outputs and want to upgrade. I wanted to buy a DAC/amp combo rather than a dedicated DAC and dedicated amp for a few reasons: (but I'm open to being convinced otherwise)

1. price; I'm on a relatively small budget and a combo DAC/amp seems to be more cost effective.
   
   
2. portability; I move my desktop often and having to only move one device would be much more convenient.
   
   
   Budget: ~$100 max, preferably less
   
   Source: Almost exclusively my desktop.
   
   Current Headphones: ATH M40x and SHP 9500s. I know that these are super easy to power, but I'm looking to gain some improvement while also future proofing for when I buy something more demanding.
   
   I'm currently looking at a few devices, but open to other suggestions:
   
   
3. SMSL M2 ($65 on amazon)
   
   I like that this one is small (and therefore easily transported). I became interested in it after watching a rave review by Zeos. The only negatives I see are a lack of output options (not currently an issue, but might be in the future) and the fact that it uses 3.5 mm headphone out (I much prefer 1/4").
   
   
4. Monoprice DAC/amp ($67 on sale with promo code)
   
   I've seen mixed reviews for this one, but it's currently on sale and seems like a great value. Not sure how great it would do with my current low impedance headphones. I like the design and output options.
   
   
5. Micca OriGen ($100 on amazon)
   
   
6. SMSL M3 ($84 on amazon)
   
   Like I said, I'm open to other suggestions in the $70-$100 range.
   
   
   

Thank you all for your detailed responses.

I ended up getting the LSR 305's from a local store with a good return policy. One of the employees took me into a closed test room where the 305 sounded much better. I really liked the ADAM F7 but for the price I couldn't justify over the 305.

During the testing I was able to turn on some subs with the speakers. For some reason the JBL 310s was barely kicking, a lot of times even sounded off if u weren't next to it. I was sure it was a setting/cable issue but the guy tried everything and it didn't improve. Now, the Person T10 on the other hand, boy do those babies kick out a nice clean punch. I had never heard of that brand before but I really enjoyed them.

No money to buy a good sub setup yet so I'm holding off. With that said I was pleasantly surprised with the nice clean kick the 305s offered in my room. It went from feeling non existent at Guitar Center to small but nice tight kicks in my room.

My problem; I have these hooked up with a 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 TS 10ft cable. The source is my Sound Blaster Zx. I'm getting a normal quiet hum when speakers are not plugged into the Sound Blaster which is fine, mostly only noticeable if I put my ears near the speaker. Now when I plug them into the Sound Blaster I get a very loud hum/static sound and when I move my mouse it whines. When playing a game this gets even worse.

My temporary fix; Put the volume knob on the back of the speakers to 4 instead of maxed at 10. This makes it to where the noises are nearly inaudible. But by doing this it also makes it to where volume isn't nearly loud enough for music (Windows Volume 100%) and just loud enough for other things.

My research; Many other people have experienced the same issue. Trying other cables, moving speakers/computer to other wall outlets hasn't worked for most people. What seems to have worked for most is either buying a FIIO D3 digital to analog convertor https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797050&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+d3 or using a Ground Loop Isolator https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797119&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&psc=1.

Any other suggestions that doesn't require purchasing extra stuff from amazon or at least finding these items locally in South Florida would be welcomed.

My question; I've heard that "Balanced" cables may help solve this issue. Forgive my ignorance but It is my understanding that the cable I bought is Balanced on the 3.5mm connector but unbalanced on the 1/4" side. Does a cable exist that is Balanced 3.5mm to dual Balanced 1/4" connectors? I haven't been able to find any, guessing it has to do with the cable splitting. What about going with 3.5mm to XLR, would that help?

My listening experience so far; I've only tried out YouTube music which since I'm a pretty casual audio listener is normally my main source of music. They sound much different than what I'm used to. I spent hours playing around with my Sound Blaster EQ and even went as far as going -2 on the LFT and +2 on the HFT on the back of the speakers.

I kept trying to get women vocals to be high enough to reproduce the hairs on my arms standing up feeling I have gotten so many times in the past when they hit that high note. Particularly when this girl hits the "rolling in the DEE-EEEE-P" part of her song https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7UFm6ErMPU. No matter what I did I was not able to reproduce it. It feels like I cant get where I need to be without upping the higher frequencies and lowering the others. This does seem to get me closer to where I want to be but before I can hit the sweet spot the song starts to sound off.

With that said, I can definitely tell that these speakers are producing a much more quality sound than what I'm used to in the past. Although I'm unsure as of yet if that is translating into a more fun listening experience. Also for the first time ever my hearing is feeling very fatigued and somewhat muffled. I'm guessing its from all the tuning and listening I have been doing but at the same time it is very odd because I have not put the volume higher than what I've been accustomed to in the past.

Watching Twitch.tv;

Not sure if at this point it was due to my hearing fatigue but It felt different listening to these people talk. Like I had to pay closer attention to what they were saying or it would sound mubled/muffled. One guy I had never heard before sounded like he had too much bass to his voice to where it became muffled. Normally I'd chalk that up to a bad Microphone but b/c thousands of other viewers weren't mentioning it. I'm guessing it was on my side

Round up with very limited listening time;

Bass: Was expecting next to none. Pleasantly surprised.

High pitched vocal: Not hitting where I normally get goosebumps.

Overall listening: Sounds very quality but not yet sure I'm enjoying it as much.

Problem: Caused hearing to fatigue and sound muffled with very limited listening time and not very high volume.

Thanks for reading.

Not a dumb question at all. Personally I don't agree with many of Logan's reviews/opinions when it comes to audio, but having a decent driver for your headphones/speakers is a great investment if you are an audiophile. [I think you are after something like this though. It is a very good unit.


I am sure others will also have input/suggestions but this is just one of the top of my head


An alternative is an internal sound card to drive your audio and a good entry level card that makes a world of difference over most onboard audio drivers is one of these.

There are alternatives to fit most use cases and budgets so if you want more info, feel free to ask.

It is worth adding that audio will only sound as good as the weakest link in the chain. If the initial quality/bit rate or the headphones/speakers aren't that good, purchasing a good driver will not make a difference. I can also expand on this if you want

Aune's had some problems with the community lately and their prices don't fluctuate often. You can grab the O2 + ODAC combo w/ jacks on massdrop for around 200$ when they drop. I wouldn't go for the JDSlabs ones, kind of expensive. A Simple schiit stack smear is always nice but don't get the Uber versions unless you really need em. I'd only need one usb input for source and you can always split the dac out. The element is lovely but you're paying a high premium for user experience. I've heard really really great things about the Micca OriGen. It's a lovely 100$ usb powered dac/amp. In fact, it has similar user experience to the element. Though I've heard it has some funny issues with the pre-outs, I'd definitely recommend this one (based on what I've heard/read). Lots of great options under 250$. Here's a humble dac/amp from SMSL. Any specific features you require?

Also, check out the T50RP MkIII. You won't regret it.

edit: words + adding in the SD793/ mur wurds

The PS4 only supports digital connectivity (old school analog A/V plugs have finally bitten the dust). So for video, it sounds like you're good -- HDMI will work great, as you mentioned your monitor supports it (alternatively an HDMI to DVI setup would also work for a monitor).

But for audio, that's another story... The PS4 uses digital / optical audio cables (also known as a TOSLINK connection). You need a decent speaker system for this type of connection. You mentioned that your monitor doesn't even have speakers (does it have an audio out port though? if so, you may be in luck and can just plug a pair of cheap computer speakers or headphones in). Otherwise, you pretty much only have three options:

• Option 1: Buy a [digital-to-analog converter](
  http://amzn.com/B004C4WPXA), along with a digital / optical (TOSLINK) audio cable and an [RGB-to-headphone style adapter](
  http://amzn.com/B000I23TTE). From there, you can get a cheap set of computer speakers (even something simple like these would work). Attach the cables together and plug in the speakers and boom -- you'll have sound. (Note: if the PS4 is anything like the PS3, you'll need to enable "multi channel output" under its sound settings.)
  
  
• Option 2: Buy a set of speakers that support digital / optical (TOSLINK) connections. We're not talking cheap computer speakers like before; these will likely be a pretty decent sound system to support digital / optical (TOSLINK) connections. ([This is the cheapest sound system](
  http://amzn.com/B002V3R2SM) I could find on Amazon that supports it -- it's a surround sound / DVD Player combo, in case you're interested.) You'll also need to buy a digital / optical (TOSLINK) audio cable, of course, which I linked to in the above example.
  
  
• Option 3: Or, your final option... just buy a TV. It'll be bigger than a computer monitor, it'll have the built in speakers, and it'll look nicer. TVs have come down in price significantly the last few years, so maybe you can pick one up for cheap on Black Friday or something.

Yes, optical is S/PDIF. S/PDIF can actually use a coaxial connection as well, doesn't always have to be the toslink cable.

You're right, the kit you linked doesn't have optical in, so you'd need a DAC. Thankfully they're not very expensive. You can find them for even less than that but I'm a fan of FiiO, they make good stuff in the entry level.

That said, hopefully you can find that soundbar kit cheaper than that. When you consider $150 + $25 for DAC you're at $175. At that price you could make yourself a pretty good sounding 2.1 system like this:

• Dayton B652 speakers - $30/pair
  
• Lepai Tripath 20W per channel mini-Amp - $25
  
• Dayton 8" Powered Subwoofer - $80
  
• FiiO D3 DAC with toslink cable - $30
  
  Total = $165
  
  This would sound much better than any soundbar and is infinitely more expandable and configurable. Someone here may have a better standalone amp suggestion, but that one should be sufficient. You should still be able control volume through the TV, just make sure the digital out volume control is set to variable, not fixed.
  
  

Like /u/ulgreswo, I used a different card; the Xonar DG. In my case, it did work under linux alright, but I'd always have to tamper with a setting under alsamixer in the terminal to get it to output sound on any fresh install of linux. Not sure if the DGX would be any different in that regard.

Also the audio-quality wasn't really all that spectacular, as I would still get buzzing and beeps due to interference from the LAN port.

In the end, I sold it and instead replaced it with this external USB DAC (Digital to Analog Converter), which was very affordable, and put out excellent sound. This particular DAC interested me due to the well written review on the Amazon page from Jayteck, where he describes replacing the capacitors on the board for even better sound quality. I followed the instructions contained in the comments, and found that it does indeed sound quite superb when these modifications are done (though it sounded better than the Xonar DG even without the mod).

Alternatively, I've also read great things on various audio enthusiast forums about this Behringer DAC, which is also quite affordable.

Due to using USB, both of those DAC's are plug-n-play with Linux, and require absolutely no configuration to get working. The only potential downside is that they do not have microphone inputs, and only output stereo audio.

Hey guys,


The DAC and amp guide here seems a bit old and I'm a bit of a newbie so I figured I'd ask here.


Here is my current equipment at my work desk:

• Dell E1505 laptop - crappy, giant, old school enterprise laptop. Only audio output is 1/8th headphone jack and the sound card is awful
  
• M-Audio Studiophile AV-40 Active Studio speakers with built in amp
  
  
  These are currently connected using a simple 1/8th to 1/8th audio cable, but the end result sounds awful and looks ugly as well since the 1/8th cable has to be plugged in to the front.
  
  
  I would like to hook up the laptop to send audio to the speakers, I don't usually use headphones. The speakers use RCA and 1/8th as input, but I'd like to use RCA because those inputs are behind the speaker and won't clutter my desk. In an effort to accomplish this AND improve the sound quality a bit, should I get a DAC? And should I consider switching speakers or do you guys think these are ok?
  
  
  
• Audio source: laptop.
  
• Audio type: music, mostly metal, some IDM, some hip-hop.
  
• Willing to buy used: yes.
  
• Budget: ideally <$150, the lower the better.
  
  
  
  Ideally, I'm looking for the DAC to run off of AC/USB power since I intend to leave it plugged in 95% of the time. A rotary volume dial would be ideal but isn't strictly necessary. Do I need something like these? And if yes, which one would you recommend?
  
  
  
• Syba USB DAC
  
• Nuforce Icon UDAC-3
  
• Modi USB
  
• Fiio E10
  
• Audioengine D1
  
• DAC destroyer
  
  
  
  
  PS - Could something like this Fiio D3 work maybe? Not sure what kind of adapter would be needed, but it seems unlikely.
  

The MSR7s are my favorite closed cans, and ive tried a lot. The clarity is astounding for a closed back, and almost as clear as my HD600s. I don't find them sharp either. Remember this, the headphone will only sound as good as your source. I use an audioengine D1 dac paired with my MSR7, and using a amp/dac combo will bring out the best in them, tighting up the highs and giving you slightly more detailed bass. If you use spoitify, make sure you enable high quality, or download some flac files to really see what the MSR7 can offer. When done right you will love them. These are some of the most accurate cans you can get for under 400, (excluding the 600s) And yes, the comfort is way up there in the top of closed back cans. Remember, the source of your sound is VERY important!!! Youtube songs will not do!

https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-24-bit-Digital-to-Analog-Converter/dp/B006IPH5H2

I will leave a note here for those wondering what a DAC/Amp is and when they are needed.

-----------------

DAC

A DAC is simply a digital to analog converter. A good DAC will minimize the amount of noise that is introduced into the system, noise being hissing, buzzing, ringing, etc. In more technical terms this would be errors made by the DAC when converting a stream of bits coming from your computer to an analog signal.

It doesn't cost much to produce an accurate DAC. Most on-board DACs are good enough that you won't notice any noise. If you do notice noise it's likely because of interference from other components on the motherboard. In that case a cheap external DAC, such as the Fiio D03k, should clean up the signal.

TL;DR: Don't notice any noise, don't buy an external DAC

------------------

AMP

An amplifier does what the name implies, it amplifies the analog signal going to the headphones. Some headphones are easier to power than others. The SHP9500s are just fine running off your motherboard, which probably has a relatively weak amp, but something like the HifiMan HE-6 requires a lot of power. My recommendation would be to try out the headphones without an amplifier first, then purchase an amp if you aren't reaching the listening volume you would like.

Let's say you need an amplifier, which one do you get? First you should know that there are two major types of amps: solid state and tube. Solid state amplifiers aim to provide clean power to the headphones. Tube amplifiers intentionally introduce distortion to the sound to make it sound more natural. This tends to cut down on harsh treble.
You want to make sure the amp you purchase has enough power for your headphones and will provide clean sound. A great entry level amplifier would be the FX Audio DAC X6 which also happens to have a built in DAC. If you require more power than that the Schiit Magni 3 is exceptional. Anything beyond that, I would recommend heading over to /r/headphones.

TL;DR: Happy with your listening volume? Don't buy a separate amplifier.

Yeah, I just googled it and it looks pretty legit. You might check if it has an option to use a front-panel jack as well. You might get better luck using the integrated audio rather than the dedicated audio (probably not, but it can't hurt if it'll save you money, right?)
I could try to explain what I'm thinking the issue is, but it's pretty deep into electronics theory. If you know some stuff about electrons, I'll try to ELI5 if you'd like.
One cool thing you've got is the capability to do SPDIF or TOSLINK out of your motherboard. These are digital communication methods for audio. In order to use it, you'll need something like a (Fiio Tashan)[https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS] box. If you don't want to go that route, you can try something like a SMKN X5. They're not great for driving headphones, but you're using them with powered speakers, and they're super-cheap.
This sub is geared toward audio recording, so if you're planning to use a professional microphone, I'd go for a Focusrite Scarlett. The small two-channel ones are about $100, but they're powerful little boxes. I've recorded a ton of VO work, a couple of guitar pieces, and some misc stuff, and it hasn't let me down yet.

>My dad's 70th birthday is coming up and he just got a new TV, a Samsung 55" Class Q7CN QLED Curved Smart 4K UHD TV (2018). The problem is that he's partly deaf and needs headphones to hear the TV. We need to get both speakers and Bluetooth headphones to work with the new TV. I'm just looking to get 2 speakers (one for each side of the room) and Bluetooth headphones (for my dad). I live in the US. My budget for the headphones is up to $200 and the same for the speakers but if I can get them cheaper, that's even better. He doesn't need the best audio quality, he just needs to be able to hear the TV. Thank you for any help.

Is the reason for both headphone and speakers at the same time because both your dad and mom are watching the TV?

Bluetooth does not usually work with more than 1 headphone or speaker at a time.

As what others have said, FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter will work with the optical out port from the TV to analog RCA Sennheiser RS 120. You may or may not be able to have the optical out and HDMI or TV speakers on both at the same time. Or use an optical splitter to split the signal for headphones and a speaker system.

Another option is an HDMI extractor. You have the wrong analog to HDMI converter and not the correct HDMI to analog converter. The extractor may also allow you to have both headphones and a speaker system at the same time.

For good Bluetooth headphones under $50, Monoprice.

To add speakers to a TV, use an AV receiver with 2 or more passive speakers or a pair of passive bookshelf speakers with an optical input.

One option to get sound from the headphones and external speakers at the same time is to use the optical out from the TV with a used AV receiver with pre-outs. It should allow you to use 2, 3 or 5, sometimes 7 wired speakers and also use the headphones at the same time.

Are you looking for wireless speakers? Denon has HEOS or Yamaha has Muiscast wireless systems.

Wireless is not needed for 2 speakers anyway since the speakers get placed on either side of the TV as far apart from each other as they are from the listener, not anywhere around the room. See Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening.

Sound from the TV speakers and external speakers at the same time is duplicative and does not have any advantage. The left and right external speakers should be on either side of the TV as far apart from each other as they are from the listener. Also having the TV speakers on does not add to the volume or quality of the sound. Adding a center channel speaker will allow you to boost its level for better dialog and the center channel gets placed directly under the TV where the TV speakers point to anyway. If you want 5 speakers all around the room, that is surround sound or you can play the same sound from all 5 speakers in mono mode.

See Speaker Placement for Home Theater • How to Set Up a Basic Home Theater System - Lifewire • How to Set Up Your Home Theater Receiver • r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ • r/hometheater.

So looking at your area I see a few options, but none strike me as a great deal. However, based on your location this may be normal. I attempted to check the price of shipping from various ID sellers and shops and it seems shipping will be $100-$200 which isn't ideal as it really hurts your buying power.

You can attempt yourself to see what the shipping is. I tried Chane's bookshelves, HTD's level three, Audio Advisor, and Accessories for less.

The only retailer that I could find that was reasonable shipping was of course Amazon. So here are my suggestions:

Local speakers to try:

B&W DM601

Paradigm Mini Monitor V6

If looking new:

Monitor Audio B1

I think the Paradigm or MA should be the preferred routes. The DM601 isn't really worth it unless it's at least a S2, if original it may be worth around $150-200. Still, nothing hurts trying to negotiate a better price on the used ones - you'll need it on the electronics side.

Your biggest problem is finding power and cheap. If you could even find a budget Onkyo locally you will likely be ahead as shipping hurts. Otherwise you'll looking at something like a T-Amp/DAC combo from amazon or paying ~$160 shipped to get something like this rebadged Amp 100 which doesn't include the DAC. If your laptop has a mini-toslink there's a Fiio DAC on Amazon for ~$20 that would work - while it isn't USB equipped it does allow you to move it around later one being toslink/spdif. So this amplifier, the B&W speakers, and the DAC could fit in your $500 though I think the speakers are overpriced. If you could get the Paradigms for $300 the APA 100, Fiio, and them would likely be up your alley.

For all intents and purposes you could get the Monitor's and this amp shipped for around $500 or get a slightly more powerful T-Amp like this and one of the used pairs, but I'm hesitant to recommend chi-fi T-amps considering that shipping is so expensive that return shipping for repairs/returns could really hurt.

If none of these solutions float your boat, the LSR305 in the OP and a DAC could still work as well and would fit in your budget rather easily.

I'm not familiar with your onboard soundcard chip so I don't want to give a premature judgment, but my own PCs soundcard is absolutely atrocious. Just pitiful. Compared to my iPhone (which usually packs a very good DAC chip compared to other smartphones), my PC sounds like utter garbage. So chances are, you probably have a not-so-uncommon case of the phone's DAC chip being noticeably better than your PC's DAC chip. If you don't want to spend a lot of money, but want your PC to sound as good or better than your smartphone, you can get these very cheap external sound cards that do the job nicely. They are based off the PCM2704 USB DAC chip and sound very good for the price and also offer a plethora of outputs for your future audio needs like coaxial etc. Or you can just get a relatively expensive DAC and be done with the DAC problem for good.

I know that if you get teh M-50 this might be out of your price range. but The Audioengine D1 DAC I've heard is pretty good.

Plus on amazon, someone already had the Fiio E-10 and is comparing it between the two. It should be the top comment. http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-Premium-24-Bit-DAC/dp/B006IPH5H2

theres a Massdrop for the Audioegine D1 DAC for 100 dollars. basically a group buy that passes the savings onto you. normally it cost around $150. https://www.massdrop.com/buy/audioengine-d1

Again, I think you're good with the headphones alone, but if you want the DAC, thats a pretty good deal for a pretty solid DAC.

Tbh I am fairly limited in my knowledge of DACs. I imagine there IS differences in quality, from DAC to sac, but I would say with a decent one you won't hear a quality loss in the conversion itzsld. but I couldn't really tell you who makes a great one from experience. After a brief googling, This one seems great on a strict budget and it's made by a company I have experience with, who actually makes audio products :) best luck!

np! I mean, you don't need to but the schiit stack does look quite nice and spec wise, it's a pretty good dac. Like this is the same price and has better specs but if I were you, I'd go for the Modi instead because dacs don't make that much of a difference and the Modi is far superior aesthetically since you already have the Magni.

This guy definitely knows what he's talking about. I personally rock the Superlux HD668B. The treble on them is a little high, but as your ears adjust to them, they sound excellent, especially for their $50 price tag. They beat out many $100-250 headphones.

However, the HD700s are some of the best headphones ever made, and will be good for pretty much anything; gaming, music, late-night movie watching, so if you're able to burn some money, definitely get those as they will likely be your go-to headphones for years to come.

Also, the headphone jack on the PS4 controller is pretty weak, not really meant to power great headphones, and it also uses Bluetooth which compresses the audio quality. If you have a home theater receiver connected, you can use that to plug your headphones into and it'll do you well. If not, I'd suggest getting a headphone amplifier. You can probably buy something like the Prozer DAC, which is remarkably cheap for it's quality. They have a $20 version as well, but headphones don't come anywhere near being able to hear that kind of fidelity (192 kHz, CD quality is 44.1 kHz), so it's really useless outside of maybe a studio where they have specialized gear for that sort of thing.

If you're going to be using headphones, you can get a cheap USB condenser mic, plug it into the PS4, and just set it near you on a table or something. The Samson GoMic is great, and very portable (about the size of a bite-sized Butterfinger candy-bar).

The headphones he listed though will absolutely get you where you need to go and a wide range of prices. And they all range from "damn good" to "excellent."

Of course, there are a plethora of "gaming" headphones, but most of them are junk because they cut a ton of corners on parts so they afford to put in "virtual surround sound", license Dolby, the microphone, and the software in the headphones to process/EQ the audio to bring you the sound "as intended" which is marketing bullshit, because the audio that comes out of the PS4 is what was intended, it doesn't need any additional processing. It's the same tactic Beats uses, and sadly, people fall for it. Gaming headphones, 99.999% of them, are just marketing scams with fancy buzzwords, really.

So yeah, TL;DR, grab the headphones you want, a headphone amp/DAC if you need, and a mic, and you'll have an audio setup that will blow most people's headphone setups away.

Edit: Fixed since I made this post on no sleep and there were some errors. lol

They come with speaker wire (I'm pretty sure) so you're set there.

You need an amp as well as a way to plug them in. It depends how much you're willing to spend, but I'll give you some options.

This little amp is great for a desk setup. It isn't very clean and doesn't have much power, but that should be fine for sitting up close.

This SMSL amp has the same power but it is cleaner, meaning it will sound a bit better. It also won't distort as much as you turn it up.

This SMSL amp has more power than the other amps. This just means it can get louder. It might be nice if you plan on using them in a bigger room or at a tv in the future.

To plug those in to your computer, you'll need an rca-3.5mm cable. I use AmazonBasics for all of my cables and they work great.

Alright, now that will give you sound (probably) but it might not be the best. Computers usually have very bad dacs. This converts the 1s and 0s to squiggly bits that the speakers can use. If your computer has an optical out, I would recommend this dac. It is cheap and comes with the optical cable.

If you get the dac, you'll need an RCA cable to plug it into the amp.

So, if you get the dac, it will go like this: (the stuff between the --> is the cables)

computer -->OPTICAL--> dac -->RCA-CABLE--> amplifier -->SPEAKER WIRE--> speakers

If you skip the dac, it will go like this:

computer -->3.5MM-to-RCA-CABLE--> amplifier -->SPEAKER WIRE--> speakers


Does this make sense?

Soundbars are typically meant to be used with a TV. Normally you would connect everything to the TV via HDMI or whatever and then just run the audio output (usually optical) into the soundbar.

Because you are using a monitor which does not have the receiver capabilities like a TV does, you are going to have to get creative. It sound like that soundbar only has digital inputs. So you need to always use digital outputs. There's no such thing as a 3.5mm to HDMI cable. 3.5mm is an analog output and HDMI is digital. There's need to be a conversion that happens but usually it happens the other way. Digital > Analog.

I would recommend staying away from soundbars. Unless you are willing to drop about $1000 on one, it's going to sound like above average TV speakers. And like i mentioned about, they are designed to be used with an actual TV.

Get yourself a pair of powered speakers. Even computer speakers would probably work better for you. Anything with multiple inputs. Something like the Audioengine A2+ would work great. Just plug your computer into the USB and get a small DAC like the Fiio D03K to convert the optical on the PS4 to analog so you can connect it directly to the other input.

I second the SMSL recommendation; I have two, and for your needs I'd recommend the SMSL Q5 and love it. Retails for $140 but I got it from those same guys on ebay and it's worked great.

Edit: Didn't realize it doesn't have any RCA inputs, only digital. you could technically get a cheap RCA to optical converter like this but then you'd also want an input switch and that'll just compound costs

Second edit : This is my main guy, I love it but it only has one RCA input so you'd still have to get a switch if you wanted multiple inputs, but that's pretty cheap.

FiiO is going to be the most recommended here. SMSL is another option with the SMSL SD-793II which runs a bit cheaper (here in the US at least), but it depends on Optical or Coax input (no USB). If there's an issue with your sound chipset, it may be a good idea to test the optical or digital connections somehow first.

Another option, and the one I would personally recommend for situation (since this sounds like more of a solution to the headphones working than the pursuit of top-notch audio) is one of the cheap Chinese DAC/Amps you see like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Digital-Control-Optical-Coaxial/dp/B073PYN7L5/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1540390738&sr=8-15&keywords=dac+headphone+amp

​

I have a couple of friends that use these to drive their gaming headphones (ATH-A900 and AKG 701) and they get the job done according to them. They are not audiophiles or anything though, they just say the little box helps pump up the volume and is more convenient than the jacks on the PC. The specs listed show 30mW as maximum output but doesn't list ohms. Either way I can't imagine they have gobs of power but they should be an improvement on a busted mobo soundchip. I have one (gifted by one of my gamer friends) but I've not tested it myself.

This is what you want to get audio to your speakers, it's called a DAC, (better, more expensive options are available, but that's the best you're gonna do for under $100 lol) and this is the cable to connect the two devices (you'll also need RCA cables)

This will get you video to your projector.

Unfortunately since it looks like you're using powered monitors, you'll need a pre-amp to control the volume.

You may be thinking wow that's a lot of stuff, and it doesn't even come with a remote! And you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, the only thing that does all that is a full blow receiver, which get quite expensive and are usually aimed at surround sound systems. Most receivers don't like powered monitors though, so you'd have to get a very special one.

This is where you realize that passive speakers are what you really want, and you blow hundreds of dollars on speakers and equipment and you become an audiophile. Luckily there's a bunch of guides to get you started over on /r/zeos. But the stuff I listed earlier should let you jerry-rig a working set up while you save up :P

I personally use the Sony MDR7506 as they're pretty much a standard for basic monitoring. Crisp, detailed high end, tight punchy base. Comfortable for hours on end and if you take decent care of them they should last years with the only wear and tear being the earcup material flaking off a bit. They're definitely made for desk-use as they have a very long coiled non-detachable cable.:

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDR7506-Professional-Diaphragm-Headphone/dp/B000AJIF4E

There's also the Sony MDRV6, which are very similar, but apparently have a little more low-end.

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDRV6-Studio-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00001WRSJ
__

As far as speakers go, I've been using the Audioengine A5+ for a few years now and have been very satisfied. Great sound and more power than I'll ever be able to use in my small apartment. They look nice too (I got a good deal on the white ones). They are powered speakers (opposed to the A5) and thus don't require a separate amp. They also come with a small remote for volume/mute:

http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-Active-2-Way-Speakers-Black/dp/B005OA3BSY

For a DAC I use the Audioengine D1 plugged in through USB, which gives me higher quality audio and a convenient headphone out and volume knob:

http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-24-bit-Digital-to-Analog-Converter/dp/B006IPH5H2/

I will be getting the Massdrop/Sennheiser HD 6XX headphones this year, but I believe that neither the DAC or the AMP on my motherboard will be the best way for me to enjoy them. As the 6XX are basically HD 650's, I will be basing my purchasing decisions off of those tech specs (300 ohms, 1/8" or 1/4" headphone jack). I also own HD 598 cs, which are 23 ohm headphones, 1/8" or 1/4" headphone jack.

Here are the DAC/AMPS/Combos that I have looked at so far.

Micca Origen+ - $100

Schiit Fulla 2 - $100

Schiit Magni 2 - $120

I loved the look of the Origen+, but upon finding out the Driver situation has made me a little more uneasy on purchasing it. I am also unsure if the Fulla 2 would be able to drive the 6XX's, so that is why the Magni 2 is on the list, but I am not sure if I am also in need of a DAC.

Help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

This is probably as overkill as it gets before starting to lose performance.

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i9-9940X 3.3 GHz 14-Core Processor | $1815.75 @ shopRBC
Motherboard | Asus - ROG RAMPAGE VI EXTREME OMEGA EATX LGA2066 Motherboard | $1027.44 @ Amazon Canada
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance RGB Pro 128 GB (8 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $1179.87 @ Amazon Canada
Storage | Samsung - 970 Evo 2 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $659.99 @ Amazon Canada
Storage | Samsung - 970 Evo 2 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $659.99 @ Amazon Canada
Video Card | Asus - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB Dual OC Video Card (2-Way SLI) | $1569.99 @ Amazon Canada
Video Card | Asus - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB Dual OC Video Card | $1569.99 @ Amazon Canada
Case | Corsair - 1000D ATX Full Tower Case | $412.33 @ Amazon Canada
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA T2 1600 W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | $465.18 @ Amazon Canada
Case Fan | Noctua - NF-A12x25 PWM 60.1 CFM 120 mm Fan | $37.90 @ Amazon Canada
Case Fan | Noctua - NF-A12x25 PWM 60.1 CFM 120 mm Fan | $37.90 @ Amazon Canada
Case Fan | Noctua - NF-A12x25 PWM 60.1 CFM 120 mm Fan | $37.90 @ Amazon Canada
Case Fan | Noctua - NF-A12x25 PWM 60.1 CFM 120 mm Fan | $37.90 @ Amazon Canada
Monitor | Asus - PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165 Hz Monitor | $799.99 @ Amazon Canada
Monitor | Asus - PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 2560x1440 165 Hz Monitor | $799.99 @ Amazon Canada
Main Monitor | Asus - ROG SWIFT PG27UQ 27.0" 3840x2160 144 Hz Monitor | $2398.99 @ Powertop
Keyboard | Corsair - K95 RGB PLATINUM Wired Gaming Keyboard | $269.99 @ Amazon Canada
Mouse | Logitech - G502 LIGHTSPEED Wireless Optical Mouse | $199.99 @ Amazon Canada
Headphones | Sennheiser - HD 650 Headphones | $492.29 @ Amazon Canada
Microphone | Rode NT-USB USB Condenser Microphone | $225.00 @ Amazon Canada
Headphone Amp | Audioengine D1 24-bit Digital-to-Analog Converter | $229.99 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EK Water Blocks EK-CoolStream SE 480 (Slim Quad) Radiator | $132.28 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-Cable Splitter 4-Fan PWM Extended, 2-pack | $32.99 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-ACF Compression Fitting for Soft Tubing, 10/16mm (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD), Black, 4-pack | $53.11 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-ACF Compression Fitting for Soft Tubing, 10/16mm (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD), Black, 4-pack | $53.11 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-ACF Compression Fitting for Soft Tubing, 10/16mm (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD), Black, 4-pack | $53.11 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-ACF Compression Fitting for Soft Tubing, 10/16mm (3/8" ID, 5/8" OD), Black, 4-pack | $53.11 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-Furious Vardar EVO 140 PWM 140mm Fan, 2500 RPM, 2-pack | $88.00 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-Furious Vardar EVO 140 PWM 140mm Fan, 2500 RPM, 2-pack | $88.00 @ Amazon Canada
Custom Loop | EKWB EK-Velocity CPU Waterblock, Intel CPU, Copper/Plexi | $138.42 @ Amazon Canada
Mousepad| Logitech Powerplay Wireless Charging Mat| $203.00
Custom Loop| EK-CoolStream CE 420 | $135.00
Custom Loop| EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM| $255.00
Custom Loop| EK Vector RTX RE Ti RGB| $230.00
Custom Loop| EK Vector RTX RE Ti RGB| $230.00
Custom Loop| EK-Vector RTX Backplate – Nickel| $72.00
Custom Loop| EK-Vector RTX Backplate – Nickel| $72.00
Custom Loop| EK-FC Terminal X2 3-slot – Plexi| $50.00
Custom Loop| EK-DuraClear 9,5/15,9mm 3M RETAIL| $27.00
Custom Loop| EK-CryoFuel Solid Cloud White (250mL) BUY 5| $20.00
| Total | $16914.49

This uses a custom cooling loop, it is not very hard to make since I used soft tubing, but if you don't want to use that, you can get 2 of THIS or THIS GPU and THIS CPU Cooler and just remove all the Custom Loop parts.

For the main monitor, I chose a 4K 144Hz monitor and 2 secondary 1440p 165Hz monitors which can also be used for gaming or can be used when you stream.

For the CPU I chose a 14 core i9 CPU, which has the best balance of cores and clock speed of the i9 CPUs, you could get more cores but the clock speed will drop a lot and so will your gaming performance.

I've used DACs and kit with built-in DACs ranging in price from $3 to $300, but I'm mainly focused on non-headphone audio. My audio signal distribution backbone is also mostly digital because splitting line-level signals more than a handful of times is needlessly complicated in 2017.

Between room acoustics, speaker placement, diaphragm installation variability, listening position, intended colouring from horns and drivers, flaky binding posts, line impedance, analog equalization, noise inherent to tubes, digital processing in pre-amps, and other factors, I've stopped caring about the fine details of individual DACs since almost every single item downstream of it colours the sound far more than the difference between the most and least expensive DAC.

Short reviews, in no particular order:

• Zalman ZM-RSSC 5.1 External Real Surround Sound Extremal Sound Card - $50 new - One knob controls analog output to up to 3 devices before noise floor becomes a problem. (In other words, the device's relatively weak line-level output colours the sound far more than the DAC chip itself.)
  
  
• NAD T763 - $200 used - The sound of the cooling fans tells me that that this powerful not little amp is turned on and passing both digital and analog outs to other gear, even when the amplifier section is not doing anything. (In other words, the cooling fans colour the sound in the room far more than the DAC chip itself.)
  
  
• Panasonic SA-HE70 - $50 used - Drives two 12-inch woofers just fine, without sacrificing whatever detail a digital signal is supposed to provide at the low end. Respectable headphone output, but does not fit nicely on a desk.
  
  
• Sony TA-E1000/2000 - >$1000 new in 1980s dollars, $300 used in 2017 dollars - Includes parametric EQ, custom EQ profiles, massive lighted volume knob, handy remote, and various DSP features. This pre-amp can bring out the best in many different kinds of power amplifiers or amplifier sections of integrated amplifiers. These are my default DACs for experimenting with new kit, and for power amplifiers that don't have volume controls. Respectable headphone output, but does not fit nicely on a desk.
  
  
• MacBook Pro - various prices new and used - The optical SPDIF output avoids having to deal with frequent ground loop issues arising from the combination of the laptop's metal case and interesting power adapter design and options. The analog out does not connect to kit that I care about without a grounded power cable.
  
  
• Generic Chinesium DAC - $3-5 new - Regardless of what brand is printed on the case, this just a DAC is compact and well suited for tube and non-tube monoblocks that have volume pots. These are my default DACs for when I want an analog pre-amp or power amplifier to just work without having to thoughtfully route interconnects, deal with line-level impedance issues, deal with source selection, etc. These are also great to modify in order to change the line level output characteristics to match expected input on older or exotic gear.
  
  In almost all cases, my choice of DAC has far more to do with the device's other functions, usability, or physical characteristics, than with its sound output quality because I know (and intend) that downstream kit will modify the analog output before it hits my ears. Hence I'm fine with a $5 DAC in front of far more expensive monoblocks and horns.

I don't think you'll find a simple solution to do what you want.

I accomplish this myself using a playbar. I have a home theater PC that connects to my TV with an HDMI cable and my TV has an optical output which then connects to the playbar.

You can achieve a similar setup by connecting your laptop to your TV (using your TV as an external monitor for your laptop display) then buying a playbar (or playbase) and connecting your TV optical output to your new sonos device. If you don't have a TV or do not want to use a TV for this, then you can buy an external soundcard or an external DAC (something like this https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE) which will offer optical output.

I'm a little confused when you say you're looking for a "room speaker". What does that mean and why do you feel a playbar/playbase would not be good? A playbar or playbase sound GREAT by themselves and will definitely fill a small to moderate size room with good sound. In the future, if you then get another play-1, you'll be able to pair the playbar/base, and two play ones to be surround sound. Eventually, you can get a sub and have a pretty good setup for sound (kinda 5.1'ish)

Try a fiio e10k or an Micca OriGen+ (inexpensive dac+baby amp combos). I'm running an "easy to drive" set of headphones as well (Phillips Fidelio X2, 30 ohm) but oh God it makes a difference. No hiss at higher volumes, better sound quality, better channel split as well. Not to mention an easy to reach hardware volume control and secondary optical input (olympus+) makes life easier on top of that.

Attach either underneath your desk with velcro and your life will change.

1. Budget: Depending on the solution - probably no more than 400 euro for a headphone amplifier, or 650 euro for a receiver/amp if that's the ideal solution.
   
2. Looking for: A headphone amplifier, or an AV Receiver that has decent headphone support. Possibly a solid DAC for said headphones.
   
3. Using the gear: I have a desk in the apartment I'm staying. I have a laptop with a single HDMI output port that I currently have connected to my monitor, although I think I could get a HDMI splitter and connect my monitor and HDMI into an AV receiver.
   
4. Gear that I own: I recently purchased the Senn. HD650s. I currently own a FiiO 17K Alpen 2 that I used along with my current headphones (Senn. HD 429 West's) especially when travelling.
   
5. Source input: Laptop: variety of music on the device (FLAC, MP3, Ogg) as well as watching movies/playing games. HDMI out is an option I think, although I can use the FiiO 17K that I own if that's a good solution.
   
6. Willing to buy used?: No. Preferably I'd like to buy from Amazon.de, since I've recently moved to Germany and don't have a way to go collect items from shops - so Amazon.de or some other fast online delivery service.
   
7. Additional information: I do plan on purchasing some speakers in the next few months, so that's why I suggested the AV Receiver route as a potential option, but only if the sound quality is still excellent. I've heard Yamaha, for example, has some decent headphone support (although not sure if I can get a model which is good).
   
   As I said in #6 above, I'd really appreciate it if people could link things I could get online (pref on Amazon.de). Really don't know this city well enough.
   
   If I go the DAC/Amplifier route, I've been looking at the follow:
   
   

• https://www.amazon.de/Oehlbach-Kopfh%C3%B6rerverst%C3%A4rker-integriertem-DAWandler-schwarz/dp/B00MIZR18Y/ref=pd_sim_sbs_267_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=31nUGsyFrGL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=ZDHYESK7S2Z8DD5WBJ95
  
• https://www.amazon.de/nationalen-JDSLABS-Objective2-rerverst-NwAvGuy/dp/B00E0DMCO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466607884&sr=8-1&keywords=jds+labs+objective2
  
• https://www.amazon.de/Audioengine-D1-Bit-Premium-USB/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_267_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41J2yqjIuOL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=7FDXYNCRTCTMV41FYAQ3

Hi all,


Not sure if this sub would be the right place to ask my noob consumer grade question.

I have two sources of audio in my living room:

1. Samsung TV (that has an optical output). So I use this Optical DAC to convert to a headphone jack output.
   
   
2. Logitech bluetooth audio adapter
   
   And I have a 2.1 speaker setup which consists of two M-Audio monitors and a subwoofer.
   
   Currently the issue is that I have to manually switch the connections of my speakers to the logitech adapter's output and later back to the DAC's out.
   
   Is there a device that I could use to switch the connections automatically with a switch (a remote would be even better, but I can live without it too).
   In addition to the switching of audio streams, I would like to have a knob to amplify the sound as per my taste. The reason I need to a volume control is because the Optical DAC doesn't have any kind of volume adjustment.
   
   Being a noob in audio stuff, my guess is that I must look at audio mixers. But when I see "audio mixers" on amazon, I see all these professional products which look like something for a DJ at stage. My requirement is a nice looking living room product which can handle 2 to 4 audio streams as long as I can mute all but one because I would want to listen to only one stream at a time.
   
   I am looking for a high quality device with respected reviews. My budget is under $200.
   
   Thanks for any pointers.

> So I need to find a way to turn the Monitor into a recording device, not a playback device. Is there any way to do this?

Not too sure on that exactly, but I have an alternative for you that may be easier, which is basically how to get the same thing you had with your 360.

The XBox One can output audio over optical, so you simply have to convert that to 3.5mm, and the route to that is a DAC:

What I did when I first got my XBox1 and had a monitor without speakers was I used an optical -> 3.5mm active converter then put it into the line-in/mic port on my motherboard and set the listen option like you did with your 360. (On the XB1 in audio settings you can set it to output audio on the optical.)

This is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/Orei-DA21-Optical-Converter-Headphone/dp/B008EPW7TA It comes with an optical cable, so all you should need is a male-male 3.5mm stereo cable to run between it and the line-in on your computer or speakers. (and a free power outlet)

 

 

(The following is extra information in case you want to output now or in the future to a 5.1 surround sound setup but don't have a receiver that can take XB1 input already)

 

 

I've upgraded since so that the XB1 can output to my surround speakers. I have speakers that have two inputs on them in front/rear/and center. I use Altec Lansing ACS41 for rear and center and Bose Companion 2 for the fronts. Then I have the optical from the XB1 going into one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Audio-Digital-Decoder-Converter/dp/B00AMC2J1Y . (Then this one is personal to my system to allow me to easily control volume balance without having to run around to each speaker and disrupting the PC's balance which also go into those speakers.) I have three of these: http://www.sescom.com/product.asp?item=SES-MKP-27 One for Front, Center, and Rear, next to each other on my desk, and then from there they go to the speakers.

that looks awesome!

Yes well I do think I may have to go with a 2 way speaker for budgets sake.

Now are the type of DACs important. Are there variations of DAC. It means Digital to Analogue Conversion right?

I see some inexpensive DACs on amazon like this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009346RSS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493260939&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dac&dpPl=1&dpID=41hlsUupiBL&ref=plSrch

But they are 24 bit not 32.

And then there's the amplifiers . are there any entry level diy amplifiers for this application.

Your setup is awesome looking. Maybe one day haha!

That particular TV seems to only be equipped with an optical digital audio output.

In which case, a setup would consist of the following:

1. TV connected via TOSlink cable connected to a simple digital to analog converter ($28)
   
2. DAC is connected to the amplifier you were suggested above via a standard RCA cable ($5.45)
   
3. … to either one of the amps you were suggested earlier
   
4. On the speaker front, you basically won't need anything more complicated than lamp cord from your nearest radio shack. Wiring is uncomplicated: Just make sure that you connect "black to black" and "red to red" for each speaker
   
5. As for the speakers you were suggested, among the two, the Pioneer is probably the better sounding one, but later this month, Micca is releasing a revised version named the MB42X, retailing for $80, that are supposedly much better than the old model. Review and measurements here - while I would've liked to see more reviews, it's definitely not looking bad for that low price.
   
   Also: If my explanation above looks complicated - I'm fairly certain that once you have this connected, you'd think that it sounds better than even a $1000 soundbar, all for a price of less than $200.

There are a few ways to do this, the simplest is with a bluetooth receiver and cellphone, I have this one and it sounds okay: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-980-000910-Bluetooth-Audio-Adapter/dp/B00IQBSW28

The best way to do this is with a USB DAC, this is the cheapest: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI and works pretty well. There are lots of different ones with different features, you can spend from 30 to 300 easily.

USB DACs will work with windows and android cellphones with OS 5 (lollipop) and higher. I'm not sure about mac or linux support. Something like this may be useful: http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B005PWPUW6 if you just want to connect optical or coaxial out from a device.

Yes, dishonesty is our reputation. ;-)

I believe I shared that measurements do not improve much for DACs composed of more than $50 in parts. Keep in mind that raw parts cost does not correspond to a fully manufactured DAC (let's not forget the PCB, assembly, enclosure, packaging, etc.). The electronics BOM cost of most entry level DACs on the market is below $50. For example, AKM's AK4490EQ is a fantastic IC. You'll find it in several $400+ "DACs". The chip itself is a mere $3/ea at 1K quantities. Add an S/PDIF or USB controller, power and supporting circuitry, and electronics BOM cost will easily remain below 50 USD.

RAZRr1275 is correct. It's certainly possible for two DAC designs to sound different. Digital filters and design choices have measurable impact--often small, but measurable. And not all DACs are designed for objectively neutral output. Well trained ears will notice.

Similarly, we've analyzed dirt cheap DACs which fall far below objective standards. Despite measurably poor performance, the audible difference between a $15 consumer grade TOSLINK-to-RCA adapter and a high performance DAC can be small to the untrained ear. Check out the positive reviews for this DAC (specs are absent for a reason!): http://www.amazon.com/Musou-Digital-Optical-Converter-Adapter/dp/B01AWBA8U8/

I've shared the following advice for years: Upgrade your headphones and focus on your audio collection first. Add an amp next. Consider a DAC only if your source is noticeably unimpressive to you.

----

Thanks to all for joining in!

-JDS

yeah

i'm not an audiophile by any means but because of recommendations I saw on reddit i got a pair of sennheiser 558's (50% off thanks to this sub) and an antlion modmic off ebay for less than $120 total. I'm very happy with the setup. You could get a cheaper mic with another set of headphones (the Phillps SHP9500 get recommended a LOT and they currently go for less than $80 on amazon) but thats what I have and it works for me.

If you're upgrading to a real deal set of headphones you might need something like this if you get interference. The cool part is you can switch between speakers and headphones with the flick of a switch.

budget/used mid-fi here looking for a desktop headphone amp under $175. Or should it be a headphone amp/dac? Or should I get a headphone amp that has preamp outs, to put inline with my speaker amp and DAC? Maybe a tube amp, as all I listen to is Grateful Dead recordings from the 60's-early 80's and think a tube might fit the character.


My bedroom setup is pc --usb-->
Cambridge Audio DAC Magic --rca-->
Micca Origain speaker amp/DAC --> Elac B6

This leaves no room for headphones, which I currently power off a cheap usb card that came with a gaming headset. I have a bunch of chifi IEMs, and a couple low (~32 ohm) impedence headphones for now, but am planning on buying something more demanding soon.

The DAC magic is an older usb 1.0 model that only does 16/48, but apparently has high-end technology that upscales everything to 24/96 (or higher I iirc). It also has balanced xlr input/output which I have no use for. Anyways I can tell a slight edge and prefer it over the built-in DAC on the Origain, even though that does 24/96 over usb (and I have close to 100gb of 24/96 flac music...).

The Origain is cool but I think it starts to get channel imbalance when knob gets below 25%, which is usually where I keep it. So I wonder if a pre-amp with volume control could help optimize that better? To use the Dac magic, I'd need a headphone amp with line outs anyway.


So for under $175, would you go for:

1. dac/headphone amp connected to pc via usb
   
   +newer DAC would allow me to natively enjoy my 24/96 flac, or even DSD
   
   -still might not be as good as the dacmagic
   
   
2. headphone amp with lineout, put it in between my dac and speaker amp
   
   +Might allow me to turn Origain's knob higher to prevent imbalance at lower levels
   
   -Should I avoid having another device in the signal path if I can?
   
   
   Also, instead of going for a headphone amp/preamp, could I just use a blanced xlr to unbalanced rca adapter on my Dac Magic to use a cheaper standalone amp like the Bravo 2?
   
   Ideas: cheap tube amp like LittleDot Mk2, littlebear P7, xduoo TA-01, Bravo Audio Ocean Mini
   
   or digital: Bravo S1, FX Audio DAC-X6, DEAFidelity Elfidelity, SMSL VMV V2, SMSL M6, Audioengine D1, or FiiO E10K
   
   I'm scraping together pennies to put down on some cans soon. Either AKG 7somethings, Beyerdynamic DTsomethings 250 ohm, or Sennheiser 6somethings...whatever pops up on Craigslist or letgo.

If that's working for you it could work with an adapter but honestly that looks like trash, you want a DAC to be isolated, not acting as a USB hub. You probably want something with RCA outs to plug into the speakers directly via RCA cable without additional adapters. If your motherboard has an optical audio out you could still go cheap with something like this or if the volume knob is something you use a lot you could go this direction (though I wouldn't recommend it personally).

But if your setup works for you and you don't have noticeable noise (like when there's silent audio) you're probably fine if you have an RCA adapter. That said, if you've got some more cash to spend buying an actual quality DAC/Amp can be pretty dang enjoyable.

The 306P is a powered speaker and has an amplifier built into it. An external DAC isn't technically necessary, but the built in DAC for your computer can be hit or miss, and something with a physical knob is always nice.

The Focusrite Scarlett is pretty popular and has a few extra features. Here's something cheaper, pretty barebones but it'll get the job done. Also make sure your computer actually has an optical output for the cheaper one.

Headphones are Sennheiser HD 650s, speakers are JBL LSR305s, and right now I'm using the Micca OriGen+ for my DAC/Amp. For earbuds I just use some random pair I got off massdrop.com for like 30 bucks.

Pretty satisfied for now, but I'm hoping to upgrade to the Crack 1.1 OTL for an amp and the HRT Music Streamer II + for the DAC so that I can get the full quality out of my HD 650s.

Satisfied with the JBLs and the Micca for a speaker setup for now, at least as far as digital stuff goes. A good few years down the road I might want to get around to building an analog setup from scratch since my old one is completely defunct and scrapped. For which I'd probably grab some passive speakers, but I also need to get an all new turntable and possibly a new CD player, so I don't even want to start thinking about it.

All right metalhead can nerds and audiophiles, I need some new headphones! I posted this over at /r/headphones but got no reply. I figured this might be a good thread to try and grab a response or some opinions, and this sub is more likely to have an opinion specifically tailored to my music tastes and needs. Here's a copy of the format from their advice thread:

> Budget - $250-$300 MAX
>
> Source - MacBook Pro & a VERY basic DAC (will upgrade that later), also have a turntable and stereo setup
>
> Requirements for Isolation - None, Really
>
> Will you be using these Headphones in Public? No
>
> Preferred Type of Headphone - Over Ear, closed Back
>
> Preferred tonal balance - Heavy, tight Bass
>
> Current headphones - Audio Technica Air ATH-AD700
>
> Preferred Music - I listen primarily to sludge and doom metal (Electric Wizard, Conan, Windhand, and YOB for example)
>
> What would you like to improve on from your set-up - The Airs REALLY lack any "oomf" and are very very bass light so I end up using my Focal IEMs. I like their sound stage though. Ive been thinking about making a change to closed backs for the extra bass, but I still want a tight, strong, warm, controlled bass...not a mindless over saturated vibrating bass that loses detail & overpowers the treble and mids.
> I am willing to look in to a basic amp if needed, so that would not be an issue. Im also willing to look at open backs again as well if there is a good contender.

So far my main upgrade options ive been looking at are:

Audio Technica ATH-M50X (I HAVE developed a liking for the AT brand)
Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO (250 Ohm)

Thanks for any advice!

The Grace Digital GDI-BTAR513 has all you want, minus the USB DAC, in favor of a APTX bluetooth option. So, maybe look at snagging that and keep your current dac in use until you can upgrade it later.

The Grace Digital GDI-IRMSamp is a similar product, with a bit less power, and it opts for Wifi (n) instead of bluetooth, and has no sub out, but as mentioned, you can just run the speaker wire into/out of the sub if needed. The USB port on this one seems to take music, but I don't think it works as a full dac, but might hook up to your computer OK. That part would require googling and ain't nobody got time for that.

The option that might be your best though is to just keep your SA60, run speaker wire into/out of the sub (a totally fine option), and the spend your $150 on a quality DAC/Amp combo like the Micca OriGen (assuming it shows back up in stock for $99 soon. The Monoprice DAC/Amp is a decent option too, and at only $80, you could look at an ugarded SMSL A2 amp that has tone controls and a sub output.

I tried the same thing on my mobo but I got a lot of buzzing in my Magni 3. My motherboard has a SPDIF optical output, so I'm getting one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009346RSS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1

Good cheap DAC that doesn't have USB input. The DAC is the last thing to spend money on, they don't change the sound much.

Good luck and enjoy your new Magni!

I'v heard those monoprice active speakers are the best value at that price point.

For a DAC, I have the schiit audio modi. I think it is amazing, and is built buy a very serious company. However, at $100, it might be a bit too expensive considering the price of your other components.

If that is the case, then something like
http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380723420&sr=8-1&keywords=DAC

or http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1380723420&sr=8-8&keywords=DAC

might be reasonably as good as the modi at a much more reasonable price.

I currently have the Kef Q100's and just upgraded from the Onkyo TX-8220 (very similar to the 8020). I also have a Pro-Ject Debut Carbon turntable, and was very happy with the combo at the price. If you have a smaller listening space, I would stick with the 100s and save the extra money for a turntable and potential external preamp down the road (the internal preamp of the 8020 is serviceable, but you could do better at around $89 with the U-Turn Pluto).

As Armsc mentioned above, you'll be limited to just analog inputs on the 8020, but you can also pick up an external DAC down the road if you need optical or coax. All in all, I think you'll be very happy with your upgrade. Enjoy!

Fellow Panasonic plasma owner here.


You're gonna need a DAC (digital-to-analog converter) to change the digital signal from the TV (over the Toslink cable) into an analog audio signal over red and white RCA cables. The way I see it you have 2 options.




Powered Speaker Option - $428

• Fiio D3 DAC - $28
  
  Digital conversion is a pretty mature technology. You don't need to spend any more than this on a DAC.
  
  
  
• Audioengine A5+ $400
  
  
  If you don't want a receiver, these are the #1 most recommended and well-reviewed powered speaker pair around.
  
  
  Passive Speaker Option - $268
  
  
  
• Fiio D3 DAC - $28
  
  
  See above.
  
  
  
• Yamaha stereo receiver - $150
  
  
  Not a home theater receiver just two nice big amplifiers and some basic switching capability. You can control the volume with your cable box remote or buy a cheap Harmony universal remote they're really fantastic.
  
  
  
• Pioneer bookshelf speakers - $90
  
  
  One of the most highly recommended bookshelf speaker pairs to come around in a long time.

The lack of optical is the real issue. If it at least had optical you would be in business. However, not all is lost if the TV has analog (RCA) outs. If your TV does then you can still use the AVR very effectively in a 2.1 stereo configuration. The good thing is with a stereo config you won't need any fancy surround decoding you're just getting a stereo signal from the TV and amping it. It's not idea but if it saves you money and allows for better speakers I would really look into it. If you have to get an AVR, even a refurb unit will cost around $200 so that $400 for speakers really starts to get small.

The other option would be to get a optical to RCA converter for the TV and use the AVR/receiver that you obtained. It's not ideal but it gets you up and running and will allow you to focus more on the speakers vs blowing have the budget on an AVR.

I would check to make sure the AVR/receiver is fully functional. If yes then check to see if the TV has analog audio outputs. If so we can move forward with speakers. If not then consider either getting an AVR or getting something like the converter I linked.

Mines the same, it has a digital audio out but that's it. I have a decent stereo and subwoofer set up in my room that also has a headphone jack which would work perfectly but the stereo only takes analog input.

It seems like modern TVs are all moving towards digital out only. If yours is the same, you can buy digital to analog converters but a lot of them seem kind of questionable (some hiss constantly, some don't work for surround sound, some don't work at all for some TVs) and when I got my TV about a year ago it was ~$100 for one that supported surround sound. I just looked now and there is a highly rated one for pretty damn cheap compared to what they used to be here. Of course there are some 1-star reviews saying it doesn't work, but overall it seems pretty good for most people. I'm probably gonna pick one up personally because I almost bought one for $100 a year or so ago.

For desktop listening I'd recommend nearfield monitors, as they're designed for exactly that listening environment:

• Focal Alpha 50 ($598 per pair)
  
• Adam A3X ($699 per pair)
  
• Yamaha HS8 ($700 per pair)
  
  Edit: Almost forgot, if you wanna go with studio monitors I do also recommend getting a separate DAC for them, such as:
  
  
• Schiit Modi 2 Uber ($149)
  
• Audioengine D1 ($169)
  
  And since they are active speakers, you can save precious desk space by not having to make room for a separate amplifier! 👍
  
  But if you do have the space for it, hi-fi bookshelf speakers with an integrated amplifier are of course not out of the question:
  
  
• Q Acoustics 3020 ($290/$370 per pair)
  
• Emotiva Airmotiv B1 ($299 per pair)
  
• KEF Q100 ($300 per pair)
  
• Wharfedale Diamond 220 ($350 per pair)
  
• Dali Zensor 1 ($395 per pair)
  
• Monitor Audio Bronze 2 ($500 per pair)
  
  And for integrated amplifiers:
  
  
• Emotiva A-100 ($229)
  
• Yamaha A-S301 ($349)
  
• Emotiva TA-100 ($399)
  
• NAD D 3020 V2 ($399) < Small form factor!
  
• TEAC AI-301DA ($399) < Small form factor!

I run a MX3 but don’t think it’ll drive any of those speakers Well as it’s 35-40 watts per channel and maybe 25 watts Clean......
I would run a receiver but if you can’t then stronger mini amp Like SMSL SA98e but it doesn’t have remote or headphone amp - just an amp. You could run a mini stack - dac/Headphone amp Plus an amp but would be above your Budget at $180-$250ish up to $400ish

PSAudio Sprout II would drive your any of current speakers including towers and is also a dac and headphone amp and remote But runs $599
BUT it’s American Made with Good Quality and Warranty and Support.

https://www.psaudio.com/products/sprout100-integrated-amplifier

I would keep the towers and sell the Rest and get a Sprout II or a ChiFi mini stack..........

SMSL AD18 might drive the Polk 70s but Not to potential. It’s weak point is the headphone amp from what I read...........but will drive Lower ohm headphones

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Bluetooth-Decoding-Amplifier/dp/B01M3ULDG9

.

https://www.amazon.com/DX3-Pro-Headphone-Amplifier-Bluetooth/dp/B07KG9P3X3

Or (no remote)

https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B006IPH5H2

Or ( no remote)

https://www.amazon.com/Fosi-Audio-Converter-Headphone-Pre-Amplifier/dp/B07G2NQYLX

Plus

https://www.amazon.com/TDA7498E-Audio-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated/dp/B077GWVHHN

Or

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SA-98E-TDA7498E-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B01N19ZHVV


Or

https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-APA150-150-Watts-Amplifier/dp/B000VKXLBO

All the Chinese made amps overrate the wattage or post max wattage at 4 ohms in distortion level - either way Clean wattage at 8 ohm is usually much lower.......

Or Sell Everything and get the MX3 and Bookshelf Speakers.

MX3 has some quality issues reported - Mine has been Great for 2 months till other day usb/optical quit working - I tried to take it apart to look for bad/cold solder joints but couldn’t get the board out more than 1” so put it back together and it’s working Again ? - Not Sure about longterm use on this thing.......

I am looking for a relatively cheap DAC Converter to use with the PS3. I would like to use it to take in audio from the PS3's optical output and drive a pair of wired headphones with a 3.5mm connector. I am currently using the RCA output and an RCA-to-3.5mm connector, but am unable to increase the audio volume with that setup.

I am looking at possibly getting A or B. B looks a little nicer, but one of the answers to a question mentions (possibly incorrectly?) not being able to amplify audio. A says it has an audio amplifier chip.

Would either of these suit my purposes and does one seem better than the other? Or, do I need a separate amp for the 3.5mm signal? Thanks for any advice.

This sounds like exactly what I am looking for! I would very much appreciate a detailed breakdown.

I currently have an Optical Audio from Xbox running to an Analog R/L Converter and then that uses an R/L to male headphone which plugs into my existing PC speakers. My monitor doesn't have built-in speakers, so this seemed like the simplest way to pipe my Xbox audio to my PC without having to do any major upgrades.

It sounds like I can recycle a good portion of my current setup to achieve what you are saying, which would be ideal.

Thanks!

> I got the ABH4000 and 4 AB1 amplifier module keyboards for $200 off kijiji.

ah, that's a much better cost equation.

there's nothing wrong with the ABH, just at that price i would expect it to have optical inputs. RCA inputs will be fine for the distance you're looking at, just be sure to get good cables so they'll be nicely made and properly shielded.

> Thanks for clarifying the zone 2 speakers. So that would not be a receiver output option.

looks like you've got two "zone 2" ouputs on that amp. the big red and black screw down terminals are definitely powered speaker outputs. but there's also a pair of RCA "zone 2" outputs. those you would use to send signal to the ABH4000.

i'm not sure if you would be able to select a different source for simultaneous playback, but it's possible.

>If there is an optical output on my receiver, sorry haven’t checked yet and I’m just heading out, could I use an optical output to RCA adapter in theory?

there is, but you're talking about a DAC ( https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ ) probably not going to offer you much advantage over the RCA. something to keep in mind if you find that you hear signal distortion or noise from the long RCA run.

-

your setup looks fine to me, since you're not paying through the nose for Harmon Kardon :)

In the near future of buying some pc stuff and other peripherals, i came across a thought of "which DAC for my dream speakers should i use?" So I plan on getting these sweet puppies:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004H0MQYW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=17VDCKL4LO5IJ&coliid=I5C4DPHEWA9D4
But obviously to get the best sound, I'll need a DAC or an amplifier.
Here's some I have in mind:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=17VDCKL4LO5IJ&coliid=I1S7F043SU6CQK
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5FRNS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=17VDCKL4LO5IJ&coliid=I1FYZ24Y1G14AO
Help me choose? i want to get a good DAC but I really want to get the cheaper option. HEALP

EDIT: Here's the original thread for better formatting.

I would have definitely wagered that my denon had a better DAC than my 1980s sony discman D2 lol. I don't think it's a particularly good discman or anything

I guess my next upgrade will be a better DAC then I'll test again

Check this out at Amazon.com
Audioengine D1 24-bit Digital-to-Analog Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_nCjaCbDG99E6N

that looks pretty affordable

It appears your tv has analog audio out, which will work with the beam. I have a Pioneer Elite Plasma TV that doesn't support HDMI and optical at the same time, but it does have analog audio out just like your TV.

​

TV analog audio out to converter, converter to optical/hdmi adapter to beam.

​

I use this adapter and it works great. The TV won't auto switch when the TV turns on, but it works just great for my needs right now until our TV dies.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HGHNCMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for the info! As I already put in the opening post, I ended up ordering this converter from amazon. It comes with cables and has good reviews, so that seemed a good value.

Does a TV's volume control really have no impact on the digital out coming out of the TV itself? That's kinda surprising. If that turns out to be the case, I don't think we want to spend that much money just for an audio solution for the kitchen TV. I mean, might as well buy a cheap new TV that has a headphones line out at that point and connect it the analog 2.1 computer speakers we already have. Or maybe a sub-$100 soundbar like this.

Good luck. You're gonna need a mess of adapters to accomplish that.

What you're going to need to ultimately do is get PS4 audio sent as an input into your PC and connect your headphones directly to your PC so you can hear both at the same time.

So firstly you're gonna need to make sure you have an Audio IN port on your PC. Next is transferring the Audio over to your PC. The easiest way to do this is pick yourself up a sound card with optical input. Something like this could work.

https://www.amazon.com/Blaster-Performance-Headphone-Forming-Microphone/dp/B009ISU33E/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511642837&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A4091980011%2C2889460011

Then you could run the optical cable from the PS4 to the Optical IN on the card and have it do live playback.

The second cheaper option would be to get one of these devices.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511642983&sr=1-3&keywords=optical+to+3.5mm

Then run a 3.5mm into your PC. It likely won't sound as good but in theory it should work.

You would of course need to make sure you 3.5mm MIC/AUX Input on your PC.

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Adapter-Desktops/dp/B06XP5R449/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511643145&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+3.5mm+aux+input

Something like this could work on your PC if you didn't have a 3.5mm aux input.

Obviously you'd need the 3.5mm cable like this.

https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Stereo-Auxiliary-iPhone-Samsung/dp/B00LBJ77ZK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511643286&sr=1-3&keywords=3.5mm+audio+cable+25ft

And you'd need an optical cable that would plug into the adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Digital-Optical-Audio-Toslink/dp/B00NH11H38/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511643360&sr=1-3&keywords=Optical+cable

Hello- I keep getting distortion on my audio system when playing PS4 games; specifically anytime there's an explosion or similar loud sound. Only seems to happen on games, not movies or tv shows.

Current set up for audio is:

• PS4 to TV via HDMI.
  
• TV Optical out to DAC.
  
  
• DAC to Sony Receiver.
  
  
• Receiver to speakers (Pioneer SP-BS22 Andrew Jones).
  
  I'm struggling to figure out why this distortion is occurring and how to fix it. It doesn't seem to happen with movies & tv, only games. Also, I have a Wii U that sends audio to the TV as well, but I don't play it nearly as much nor do I really have any Wii U games with loud explosions in it, so it's
  
  
  I've gone through all the settings on both the PS4 and TV and set the outputs to "Linear PCM". At this point, I'm wondering if it's the DAC that's causing the distortion- it was pretty much the cheapest DAC with good reviews, so I'm trying to gauge if it's worth upgrading the DAC to see if it solves this issue.
  
  
  If anyone has any insight, I'd appreciate it!

So your sennhesier gsx 1200 is currently what is giving you the virtual surround sound. So if you get rid of that amp youll need another amp that offers virtual surround sound, which is pretty limited.

​

In other words if you just switched amps you may not have the ability to do that. unless you changed your headphones as well.

​

Arctis pro headset DTS virtual surround 32ohms

https://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Arctis-Fidelity-Gaming-Headset/dp/B07B32GY9Z/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549572900&sr=1-3&keywords=arctis+pro

​

Audio Engine headphone amp/dac This unit sounds really good and fits perfectly on a desktop. With a 32ohm load it should go plenty loud for you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&smid=A17IVE6SUAZA2P

​

This unit I've never used before but I've always read good reviews and im sure it could power a 32ohm load no problem. Great price point.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1549573059&sr=1-3&keywords=headphone+amp

​

The Audio Engine D1 and the Arctis Pro should be a solid pairing.

​

​

​

Amp: Start off with a entry-level class D amplifier: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC

DAC: Get something cheap and clean for your desktop's optical out: FiiO D30k: https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS

Speakers: I recommend Monitor Audio Bronze 2s: http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=1MRBS2&variation=PWAL

I think you'll be pretty happy with that combo, and that's a great budget setup for less than $500 overall

Hey, maybe we can do better and simpler than Bluetooth. Aside from Bluetooth compression messing with the sound quality, it can introduce lipsyncing issues due to lag. I always like a wired connection myself whenever possible.

You should be able to plug something like this into the TV's optical output, plug the M-Audio monitors into this, and then control the volume w/ the TV remote.

https://www.amazon.com/AutoWT-Digital-Coaxial-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B011O0N0UQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523321294&sr=8-2&keywords=optical+to+audio+adapter&dpID=51QpJCAEKNL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Only reason I say "should" is because on my Sharp TV, the volume level of the optical output is fixed by default. You have to flip a setting in the TV's menu to allow the optical output volume to be controlled by the volume setting. I looked in your TV's manual but couldn't find any information about whether that's the case... it's possible the volume level on your optical output isn't controlled by the volume setting. But hey, at $12, maybe it's worth taking a shot.

Worst case scenario, you could add something like this between the optical-to-analog gizmo and the M-Audios:

https://www.amazon.com/MCM-CUSTOM-50-8394-CONTROL-IR/dp/B01CX82KH2/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_23_img_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZQVYN0CF8MFDE8DJ7J9Y

Looks kind of shady, but seems to have positive reviews, so I would be reasonably confident in it. Have not used it myself just to be clear.

It won't. It's 3.5mm in size, but it's still an optical signal. You'll need a Digital to audio converter. Something like this. Then a cable like this one and you are good to go.

Or if you want to make your life easier. Get this cable and use the ps3 av cables.

You're unlikely to find a mixer that has those inputs built in. Your best bet would be to use adapters for all those sources and just plug those in on the 1/4in jacks. Keeping in mind though that you should also look for mixers that support panning individual channels; each jack on a mixer typically just supports mono audio, so you'd have to send it back to left / right.

For example, I use a Mackie 402 on my desk. If I want to plug in a stereo line on channels 1 and 2, that "STEREO PAN" button has to be enabled to keep it from mono'ing them both.

Off the top of my head, something like the X Air series supports linking two channels and simultaneously controlling them + L/R panning them, for multiple channels, which you would probably need with your amount of inputs. A quick look and the Mackie ProFX12 would also probably suit your needs. Both of these are probably a little overkill for exactly what you need, but generally they both have the ability to properly handle your sources once they're in 1/4in form.

I'm kind of going on at length on this because I 100% did not consider it as a problem to be aware of when buying my mixer for my purposes and just lucked out that everything works.

For those adapters, a bluetooth receiver and appropriate cables for that particular unit, optical converter, and if "A/V audio" means RCA, just slap that RCA-1/4 from earlier in as well.

The other guy is wrong. I had a TON of various feedback noise "hiss" until I got a cheap DAC which got rid of all of it, but I did eventually get a Scarlett 2i2. I have an XLR mic, the 305's, and headphones all plugged in and I never have to use computer settings to control anything. All volume is just adjusted in the 2i2. It's amazing.

This was the DAC I used originally. I would advise just jumping right into a 2i2 though, might as well save the $20. Eventually, your needs might outgrow the 2i2, but by then you'll have a better idea of what you need.

I'm currently looking for a new pair of headphones, below is what I posted in the sticky thread. Should I consider getting these?

I need help picking out new headphones for my PC

Budget - $100-200. (Would like to keep it under $150)

Source - Desktop

Requirements for isolation - Not an important factor (Not sure?, maybe this would be nice to have?)

Preferred type of headphone - Over ear, something comfortable

Preferred tonal balance - Don't have enough experience to answer this.

Past Headphones - Turtle Beach X12s (They were cheap and have served their purpose over the year, but would like to upgrade. Also, I'll be getting a stand alone Yeti mic so I don't need a mic to be on the headphones.)

Preferred Music - A large variety. Mainly will be using for video games, voice chat.

Other - I was also considering getting this based on a RL friends recommendation. Thoughts?

I am borrowing these from a friend soon to try out, but don't necessarily want/need wireless.

What kind of speakers do you have? What sort of input or jack do they have on them?

'Optical audio' is a pretty common standard for delivering stereo or surround sound over fibre optic cable, and lots of devices support it.

The only way it's important to you is if you were to get a speaker system that accepted optical audio, since you could use that as the output for audio from your PS3. There's also some headsets that use it.

If your monitor does not have a headphone jack on it, your best bet will likely be to get yourself a device such as this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Toslink-Converter-Adapter-Optical-Black-96-Khz-2-0ch/dp/B00KNNSKV0/

...then make sure your PS3 is outputting audio over Optical/SPDIF.

Currently using the Superlux 681, with planes to upgrade to the AKG M220. This is the dac/amp I use, but I have no idea if its any good. I need something with multiple inputs, so I can connect both my laptop and xbox and seamlessly switch between them. Is the dac that I currently have good enough or would it be worth it to spend some more money and get a better one? The FX Audio DAC-X6 is currently on Massdrop for $60 and suits my needs, would it be worth it to upgrade to that? Or are there any other dac/amps for a similar/cheaper price that have what I need?

As far as I know, both common digital formats are SPDIF. SPDIF can run over fiber (TOSLINK) or wire (with RCA connectors).

I haven't exactly done a broad survey of all available receivers, but it seems like most receivers these days come with optical (TOSLINK) SPDIF inputs. So you can probably just stick with that.

Another option with newer TVs and receivers is to hook up with HDMI. Some TVs and receivers support "ARC" (Audio Return Channel) where the audio can go "backwards" over the HDMI cable from the TV to the receiver. Usually each one only has 1 or 2 HDMI ports that support ARC.

And yes, you can buy adapters to convert from optical SPDIF to wire SPDIF.

Speaking of which, another option when sticking with the current receiver is to buy a separate digital-to-analog converter, like this one. You'd hook the TV's output to that, then hook its output to the receiver's input. One limitation of this is you will probably not be able to use the TV's remote to control the volume.

Yeah you need a DAC that accepts optical input. the fact that a $699 DAC/AMP doesn't come with this option is a joke. I hope nobody in this sub recommended this product.

However, if you think it sounds pretty good the way it is right now, why change it? The cheapest optical DAC is the FiiO D3. If you connect:

PS4>Optical>D3>RCA>Deckard

the sound will be processed by the D3 and amplified by the Deckard. Tight now your PS4 is processing the sound, send line out to the Deckard and the Deckard amplifies it.

I also use soundswitch, but I would love a hardware solution. I have looked into the Micca Origen+ Amp/DAC as it has a toggle switch so I can go from my speakers to my Sennheisers via hardware.

Hardware solution is intriguing to me because I often forget to switch output before loading up a game and most of my games require to quit and relaunch with the audio device you want to use as it will not switch in-game to your desired device. A minor inconvenience but if I can add QoL change plus provide better sound, I may splurge.

Thanks! thats the answer i was looking for!
Do i need the red and white cables as well if i want to get the sound through speakers or am i fine without them and sticking my headphones into the jack next to them on the converter?
My monitor only got dvi and vga ports.

I honestly thought the 3.5 adapter is everything i need to make it work. I gonna check my mediamarkt right now and if i wont find the same ill order on amazon. Thanks man

Edit: Just checked the price of the same converter in austria. 120 euros.. this one will work fine as well i guess? http://www.amazon.de/FiiO-Taishan-D03K-Digital-Decoder/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_10?s=ce-de&ie=UTF8&qid=1416586181&sr=1-10&keywords=digital+to+analog+audio+converter

I'm going to assume you want to use this for a desktop, gaming setup. If you could stretch out to $200, you could grab the Audioengine A2s, but if you want to operate on super low costs, try this.

DAC + Vintage receiver + Passive (bookshelf) speakers

You can find a good vintage receiver for cheap at thrift stores or Craigslist. Same with the speakers. You could probably do that on less than $100 depending on where you live. If you need help hooking stuff up, message me.

> Audioquest Dragonfly Black

I haven't heard one but they get great reviews.
HiFimeDIY also get good reviews. Half the price of Dragonfly. 24/96 capable https://www.amazon.de/HiRes-USB-DAC-SABRE-ES9023-112dB/dp/B00AOH5JTQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=ce-accessories&srs=5656639031&ie=UTF8&qid=1493289789&sr=1-1

You won't be able to use the bose dock without it having some sort of standard input.

I wouldn't worry much as you can do better than the bose for very little cash. And TV speakers are always going to be worse than just about anything.

Assuming you have only an optical out on your TV you may need to buy this FiiO D3 OR if you have a cable box that might have some sort of Analog out.

I don't know your budget but this little setup will certainly best the tv's built in speakers and properly placed sound better than the bose ipod dock.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505927697&sr=1-4&keywords=dac Cheap work around.

Edit: Lol? excuse my cheap dac recommendation. Coworker ran a variant of one of these with a little bear was pretty decent for a cheap set up :) Also if you don't have RCA's out from your computer (which you won't unless you have a soundcard with them) this is a cheap solution. cheers

Looks like that soundbar has inputs for RCA, 1 optical, 1 digital coaxial and 3.5mm plus Bluetooth. And that TV only has optical audio out... so not a lot of options there. If it had RCA output like some other TVs it'd be easier.

What you COULD do is buy an optical to RCA converter such as this one www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ and use splitters to split it between your sound bar RCA input and the RCA input of a subwoofer. I recommend this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/

The whole shabang would cost you about 120 plus tax and would sound pretty decent.

EDIT: I just noticed the fiio converter has RCA AND 3.5mm line out. So maybe you don't even need a splitter! You could just have the soundbar connected via 3.5mm to 3.5mm aux and have the RCA going to the subwoofer. That would be less clutter and you won't have to worry about losing signal power from using splitters :)

I use the M40x at my office and they are a really great closed back pair of headphones. If you decide to go with them, I would also pick up a pair of HM5 Pads (idk why they are rated 3-star, they are 4.5-star with 500 reviews on the American amazon), as the pads included with the M40x are trash.

Now, when it comes to DACs/Amps you should know that in general the biggest change in sound signature that you're going to hear is going to come from the headphones you choose. The next in line would be the Amp and then in last place would be the DAC (this is a generalization). That being said and without knowing what your price range is I'll make a few suggestions:

Headphone DAC/Amp combos

• FiiO E10K = €80
  
• Audioengine D1 = €160
  
• Aune x1s = €280
  
  If you're serious about audio and want think you may start upgrading headphones in the near-ish future, I would stear you more toward the Aune x1s as it's a very good DAC and Amp. If you think you'll be content with your setup for a year or so, then I would say the FiiO is your best bet.

What I want

Does anyone have a suggestion for a desktop DAC/AMP system under $200? I live in Toronto, Canada and am willing to buy used.

What I'm using it with/for

I will be using my PC which has a free USB port as well as an optical out. I currently use the AT-M50x, but upgrading to speakers are a slight possibility. I listen to electronic music (mostly lounge), jazz, and play games.

What I'm looking for

Something that looks nice on my desk (so black is the preferable color, but thats flexable), is conducive to possible upgrades down the road, and sounds really nice.

What I've already found

What do you guys think of the Audioengine D1, the Fiio E10K (though it doesn't have optical in), or a used Musiland Monitor 02 US Dragon. This is in order of my preferences.

What you're looking for is a headphone amplifier or a DAC, though I'm not seeing very many headphone amps with TOSLink (optical) built-in. You could use a converter to go from TOSLink to RCA and then use a headphone amp to go from RCA to your headphones. I found this guy on Amazon, but I don't know anything about it and cannot in any way vouch for its quality: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003XCHCLC

Alternatively, if you hook up a home theater system most receivers have a 1/4" jack on them (but that's a lot of expense if you're just trying to get a headphone connection).

EDIT: Ah! After a bit of searching, I think I found exactly what you need: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538502346&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=toslink+to+RCA&psc=1

At $22 it's not going to be all that great, but it will get you the connection you're looking for. This will probably sound about as good as the output from your iPod, but it won't compare to a proper headphone amp. If you want a high quality setup, you'll want a high quality DAC paired with a headphone amp.

What headphones are you using?

I also had interference from the analog outputs of my AsRock motherboard. It wasn't always there and very well could have been my video card since that's the component that gets upgraded most often.

My solution was to get a cheap DAC since the audio setup on my PC is not "high end". As has been mentioned by others, DACs do sound different but it requires both (1) the ability to hear the differences, and (2) equipment that allows you to resolve those differences. I bought a FiiO D3 DAC from Amazon for 30 bucks. Output is totally silent (when it's supposed to be) and the sound quality through my ok-quality speakers is great.

That being said, the DAC in my main audio rig is an Arcam irDAC which I've been very pleased with. I paid $500 used and feel it's worth every penny, but I would never buy one for my PC setup because I don't do any kind of critical listening with it and it makes no difference with games.

The SMSL-SA98 will easily carry those speakers. I've been using it on my desktop for about 4-5 months and love it. It provides more then enough power to drive them, and it gets LOUD. I run mine with a schitt stack and don't even need to use high-gain at all.

I run RCA-RCA to the DAC, with RCA-3.5 to my PC. But you can buy a RCA-optic converter off of amazon (that's what I use for my TV). https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497374003&sr=8-5&keywords=rca+to+optical+audio+converter That's the one I use and it works well.

Edit: Also as someone mentioned, you can buy a AD18 as well (this replaced the Q5 Pro which i also have used.) Comes with a remote and provides good power with more features then the SA98.

If I had your money, I would go for this:

AMP: https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Magni-Headphone-Amp-Preamp/dp/B07KWJ9QMN

DAC: https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Modi-3-D-Converter/dp/B07KWHWV1M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549174246&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=shiit+modi+3&dpPl=1&dpID=31YBfKudw3L&ref=plSrch

Headphones:
https://www.amazon.com/beyerdynamic-770-PRO-Studio-Headphone/dp/B0006NL5SM (250 ohm version)

Yes of course it's like a hundred bucks over your budget... This is how upgrading your battlestation goes usually xd

Great looking setup though!

I can’t seem to find one on Amazon at the moment, but back in the day I bought a 4 input AV (you know, the yellow and red/white RCA connections) switcher that had an IR remote control, with this I was able to automatically switch it with a Logitech Harmony remote. By the end, I was using it just to switch audio into my amplifier,

Anyway fast forward to today with home automation. If I was in your shoes I’d get that exact same switch and use a Broadlink RM Pro with Home Assistant to Control the input source selection via IR commands sent from Home Assistant.

There was another passive switch I had before the one with the IR Control (I got tired of getting up and changing it) it was literally passive and the press of one of the 4 buttons would connect the RCA connections to the output connection terminals. Maybe a switch like this could be taken apart and connected to a bunch of relays controlled via your Pi’s GPIO.

Edit: here’s the passive switch that could be taken apart and wired to relays: C2G/Cables to Go 4x2 S-Video + Composite Video + Stereo Audio Selector Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032ANC8M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vnWNBbSJWG6VM

For digital audio you can get devices like this to convert it to analog and then connect it to the passive switch: PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter DAC Digital SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo Audio L/R Converter Adapter with Optical Cable for PS3 Xbox HD DVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps Apple TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5pWNBbPM4GDN8

(This is what I did back in the day with the third generation Apple TV’s optical output)

Not sure about just straight cables, but there are piles of usb powered DACs with RCA outputs. Really depends on your budget. uDAC3 is good, Audioengine D1 is good, Fiio E10K is good.

Sure, here's the Strix. https://images.webhallen.com/product/267958/large

A DAC is a Digital-to-Analog converter. Speakers can't play the sound coming out of a computer digitally but has to convert it to analog. Active computer speakers (plug and play) have built in DACs (usually cheap ones) while passive speakers that need an amplifier (for power) do not. A DAC also acts an external sound card and improves your sound substantially from integrated motherboard audio, providing you have a decent audio set up.

Also an external sound "card" as the DAC won't be prone to electrical interference from inside the case and will always provide a clear sound. There are all kinds of DACs out there but something like this is nifty just as an example of form factor: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B00V7K5UJI/=ur2&tag=linustechtips-20?tag=linus21-20 that can go for both powered speakers and headphones plugged in. But it won't work with a passive speakers for instance due to a lack of amplifier.

The HD598's are already pretty easy to drive; it's fair to assume that the difference between a D3 and an E10 will be quite a lot lesser than the difference between driving them with a D3 and driving them direct from your PC's headphone jack.


Edit: Hold on, /u/SuperShaker, bit of a cock up. there might actually be a difference. Is this what you have? Here's the trouble with asking headphone questions on this sub, someone like me who's not too familiar with headphone gear attempts to answer the questions that look easy! I assumed that the D3 was a d/a + amp, it looks like it's just a d/a converter, and outputs line-level. ಠ_ಠ I'm astonished that this is getting loud enough for you, have you compared it to your motherboard's headphone out?

Alright, the problem here is your TV has no variable or line level RCA outputs. I'm going to offer a couple of options:

1. An optical DAC with a remote line level controller and powered monitors. DAC, Remote volume control, Really good sounding powered monitors. Wait til they go down to about $240 for the pair or buy them on massdrop now, you have 9 hours to decide. Totals to $300
   
   
2. Same setup as above, but will switch out the JBLs for something cheaper and totals to about $200. Wait til the Micca PB42X are in stock at amazon. They run $120. If you can swing for the JBLs, do it though.
   
   
3. The best option in my opinion, would be to get a cheap 5.1 receiver with an optical input. You can pair this with any pair of passive speaker you want, you can purchase a used receiver from craigs or ebay, you can add a center channel at a later date, and more importantly, you can add a subwoofer when your budget allows and have proper bass management with high and low pass filters and eq.

Well, you only have optical audio out, i don't know if your TV's remote controls the volume of this output or not, but hopefully it does. what you need is a DAC for optical audio, something like the Fiio D3 would probably do just fine (and could be powered by one of the USB ports on the TV) then you just need a pair of RCA to TRS cables like this connecting the a5+ would be pretty much the same, just use normal RCA cables instead of RCA to TRS

If you can afford it, pick up one of these to go along with your SMSL, https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Sanskrit-Optical-Coaxial-Decoder/dp/B00SY9RBOM, then you'll have additionally a usb dac + rca out's, and then you can really get going.. you might also consider picking up https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10906&cs_id=1090602&p_id=9723&seq=1&format=2 which will help fill in your little audio experience. takes a line-in & line-out back into your amp, and then you got sub-base as well. I love these rca cables, they sound amazing, https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-2-Male-RCA-Audio-Cable/dp/B01D5H8P0G/

The magni/modi is a great stack, but probably overkill for the HD598. If you want to try to dip into the audiophile market you can start with something like Hifimediy. (link: http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMeDIY-Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical/dp/B00AOH5JTQ)

The nice think about the hifimediy is that if you upgrade your headphone and amp, the hifime can still serve as an ok dac further down the line.

Thank you! Yes, the TV does have optical output, so to double check, I could use the optical output from the TV to this device: https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-TOSLINK-Digital-Splitter-VHD-TS1X3/dp/B00G191YL8 and take one optical split to the soundbar and the other optical split to an optical to RCA DAC like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009346RSS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2I2ABOTKB8VI3 and then from there to the receiver?

That sounds great!

>So i want to know if its enough or should i buy a dac/amp

Only you can answer that for certain. I've had the M50x, and you should be able to power those just fine. Looking at the M220 specs, you should be able to power those just fine as well. Get the headphones, try them out, and if you find that you can't drive them loud enough for your tastes, then look into an amp.

If the DAC on your motherboard isn't cutting it (and I'm sure it will do just fine) you could pick up something inexpensive like this since your board has an optical out.

TL;DR, you can probably save your money and be just fine.

you need an external sound card like this:
https://www.amazon.com/EC-Technology-Aluminum-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B014F2VUO8/ref=sr_1_14?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480617365&sr=1-14&keywords=external+sound+card
be sure to get a usb extension wire as the PS4 is just an awful shape that doesn't fit usb's that have a large base like most sound cards

OR

a DAC with an optical cable like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFKH6OU9WWNFS


a suggestion for a mic if you need a great one that's cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-ECMCS3-Omnidirectional-Stereo-Microphone/dp/B0058MJX4O/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1480617666&sr=1-3&keywords=sony+omnidirectional+microphone


you can also use any mic that plugs into a usb slot like a blue snowball or other desktop mic. I'm not sure what exactly your setup is so I can't really tell you whats best but hopefully this helps.

If you need a basic Starter AMP/DAC, [FiiO K1] (https://www.amazon.com/K1-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Titanium/dp/B0189EVGAG) or [Schiit Fulla] (http://schiit.com/products/fulla)

If you want a Better starter AMP/DAC when you get better headphones in the future and possibly want speakers as well, [FiiO E10K] (https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=pd_sim_23_21?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LP3AMC2&pd_rd_r=MNNRBCB735A2MXBD3XHA&pd_rd_w=SUoRO&pd_rd_wg=3Gad4&psc=1&refRID=MNNRBCB735A2MXBD3XHA), [SMSL M3] (https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Audio-M3-Powered-Decoder/dp/B019Y5TR6O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1481332017&sr=1-1&keywords=smsl+m3), [Schiit Fulla 2] (http://schiit.com/products/fulla-2) or [Micca Origen+] (https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8)

EDIT: SMSL M3 can drive passive speakers, though the Micca Origen+ can drive powered speakers if that helps

I think we've already found you a solution, but I had already typed most of this up, so I'll post it for educational purposes.

It's tricky to go from optical/digital to headphones, because most products for headphones are designed to support portable use... and optical isn't a cable type you'd typically see in portable products. So you're kind of trying to cross two worlds it's far from impossible, but may not be super cheap.

You need two things. A DAC to get from the digital signal to an analog one and a headphone amp to give that signal enough power to drive your headphones. You can find TONS of DAC/Amp combo devices--many products from Fiio... but they're generally designed to go receive USB or digital coax (again because the market is much larger for portable use). The DAC/Amp combos that can take optical, and in turn are designed for desktop/tabletop use, are gonna be more expensive--products from Shiit.

You could combine a $30 Fiio D3K Taishan DAC with a $100 Shiit Magni. But that amp is probably overkill. You could use a $70 Topping TP21 as your amp--it supports speakers and headphones.

The absolute cheapest option I can come up with is a ~$30 Fiio D3K combined with a $30 Fiio E5. But then you'll have to deal with that portable amp running out of batteries. Also, you'd need an adapter to get from Stereo RCA to 3.5 stereo.

In the end, it turns out your headphones already have a DAC and an amp built in. If you used a USB cable, you'd be using the UDB DAC. If you use the RCA cables (which is what you should do--with an outboard DAC), then you'll just be plugging straight in to your amp. Hope that all makes sense.

A number of possible solutions. Your TV has optical sound out. So you will need something to convert the optical digital sound signal to an analog signal (DAC). Then you will need something to amplify the analog signal to drive a speaker (amp). Then of course the speaker itself.

Here are some possible solutions:

• Bluetooth transmitter that takes optical input ($25-50) and two bluetooth speakers ($25-50). Many of each to choose from. You'll likely want a BT speaker that takes an AC adapter so that you can just plug the speakers into the wall outlet. So just make sure the speaker comes with some kind of AC adapter. Many of them are USB powered, so if you have a bunch of AC to USB plugs lying around, you should be all set.
  
  
• Small integrated DAC + amp like the SMSL Q5 Pro (~$100). Micca MB42 speakers ($60). The Q5 Pro has a remote, so they can adjust the volume of the speakers easily.
  
  
• Small DAC like the FiiO D3 ($25) and powered speakers (i.e., the amp is integrated into the speaker) like the Micca PB42x ($120). Volume control is a knob on the speaker.
  
  
• ... and now the controversial solution that will commit two /r/hometheater faux pas' at once. A soundbar (gasp!) possibly from Bose (double gasp!). If your parents have trouble hearing the dialogue in shows, there are modes for soundbars that are specially tuned to amplify talking. The Bose Solo 5 mini soundbar ($200) will take the optical input, convert to digital, amplify, and drive its speakers. It has a "dialogue enhancement" mode to boost the frequencies in human speech without making the background sound louder. Similarly the cheaper Amazon Basics version ($100) has a "news" mode that does the same thing. You may find that they can use these modes to hear the dialogue but not have to turn the volume up so high. Note the Amazon soundbar is quite long (31") while the Bose one is compact. You just stick the soundbar under the TV and they would not need to put speakers on their nightstands or do any wiring across the room.
  
  BT xmitter: https://www.amazon.com/HomeSpot-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Wireless-Headphones/dp/B00QV77YIC/ref=pd_sim_23_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00QV77XU6&pd_rd_r=S1FZ89HQSV360WXDPB6K&pd_rd_w=5L2XQ&pd_rd_wg=tT0TC&refRID=S1FZ89HQSV360WXDPB6K&th=1
  
  BT speaker: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Portable-Bluetooth-Speaker-Black/dp/B01GF5ACUG/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496641001&sr=1-10&keywords=bluetooth+speakers
  
  SMSL Q5 Pro: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Q5-Pro-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B017W12UCU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496640656&sr=8-1&keywords=smsl+q5+pro
  
  Micca MB42: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=pd_ybh_a_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M8DF9BG3KN9NN102A6Q6
  
  Fiio D3:https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO
  
  Micca PB42x: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496640689&sr=1-1&keywords=pb42x
  
  Bose Solo 5:https://www.amazon.com/Bose-Solo-TV-Sound-System/dp/B01AWLPUAG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496639710&sr=8-1&keywords=soundbar+dialogue#customerReviews
  
  Amazon Basics: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EK7TEL4/ref=psdc_3237803011_t1_B01AWLPUAG?th=1

With $600, you can get a very nice setup.

• Kanto YU4 for $270
  
• Dayton SUB1000 for $110
  
  That's $380, but let's take it a step further:
  
  
• Schiit Modi 3 DAC for $120
  
• JDS Atom Headphone amp for $99
  
  That's a complete setup for $599, and the one I currently use. Sound is amazing.
  
  ​
  
  If you only want speakers for the $600, you can get the Kanto YU6s for $399, and the dayton sub linked to above and have a nice setup for $509.

IMO, this one would be better: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC. That's the one I heard them with and I really liked it. But hey, Schiit is pretty good too!

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

Here you have. FiiO is a nice brand and you have the chance of connecting your current speakers.

Best of luck!

Yes, it will be per channel.

Wattage is largely irrelevant, the way powering speakers work is most people will only use a few watts per channel in a home environment. As you go louder, it takes exponentially more power to do so, it isn't a linear scale. Most speakers will produce 80-90db on only 1 watt.

The main concern is the resistance of the speaker, and this does matter. The standard is 8ohm and most equipment will expect this resistance. Most cheap speakers from Home Theatre in a Box systems for example are 4ohm, and could potential damage an amplifier if it isn't designed to support them. This is because a speaker of lower resistance will require more power to produce the same level of volume, so your amplifier has to work harder to power them.

The power listed on speakers is the MAX amount of power you want to feed them without damaging the speaker. Any more than that and you may blow them.

Large floorstanding speakers with lots of drivers may be bottlenecked by too weak an amplifier, but you could run most mainstream speakers off a 40 watt Lepy amplifier easy. Lepy amps are cheap as chips amps that are generally ment for car use, but are great for a cheap solution to power a couple speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Lepy-Channel-Digital-Amplifier-Included/dp/B01AQARWHW/ref=sr_1_2?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1480112573&sr=8-2&keywords=lepy+amp&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

If your TV has RCA audio out than you can run it directly to the amp. If it doesn't you can use a simple optical to RCA adapter to convert the audio.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480112767&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+optical

Or just get the receiver of choice :P

The 598s do improve from a nice amp/dac but not as much as the HD6xx stuff. It's a subtle sound difference assuming your computer already has good on board sound.

If you end up getting the HD598 and they are not loud enough or you hear significant background noise, get the Schiit stack (Magni + Modi) or half Schiit (Magni + Hifimediy).

The cheapest desktop dac/amp combo I would recommend is a Magni + Hifimediy Sabre for $150.

Oh, OP! Another thing!

u/Polypeptide147 is a sharp guy. His $50 dollar suggestion is a good one. You might be good with just that.

I'm just adding one point: you said you tried the analog output on your TV and it was too quiet. You may want to hook up a cheap DAC, like this one for $14 to the optical output on your television. It might provide a better line-level voltage than your television, maybe. You'll need to control the volume via your speaker choice if you go this route.

I just looked up your TV... it does have an optical output for your audio data.

I currently own a pair of Sennheiser HD598's. I would like to get a pair for on the go use, though I'm also not opposed to upgrading the 598's for home use. My only concern with IEMs is spending a lot of money to have them broken/lost. I'm hoping to spend <$200. I listen to a lot of jazz, hiphop, and classical. Bass isn't particularly important.

Would either of these Beyers be an upgrade to my 598's? They're currently on sale on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-DT-770-PRO-32-Headphone-Monitoring-Applications/dp/B008POFOHM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417122888&sr=8-2&keywords=DT770+PRO
http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-DT-990-Pro-250-Professional-Acoustically-Applications/dp/B0011UB9CQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1417122917&sr=1-2&keywords=Beyerdynamic

For IEMs, I'm looking at these Westones:
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/UM2HW
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/UMPro10

Which of these would be a better buy for a DAC/Amp (honestly not that sure of the difference)? I'm also open to other options in the ~$50 price range.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Headphone-Amplifier-Micca-Cable/dp/B005JT8OT6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1417121587&sr=8-8&keywords=fioo
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B005PWPUW6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1417121587&sr=8-12&keywords=fioo

Thank you very much!

Ok, to fix your phantom power dilemma, try this: http://www.amazon.com/InnoGear%C2%AE-Condenser-Microphone-Recording-Equipment/dp/B00KAPGLQC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462236977&sr=8-1&keywords=phantom+power+box

Then as far as audio, listen to people when they say keep it coming from HDMI. Or you can turn it OFF the HDMI in OBS and use the mixer USB but you'll need to use something like an hdmi audio demuxer to bring it into the switch OR even better, run it out the TOSLink digtal port to the mixer with something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/AutoWT-Digital-Optical-Converter-Standard/dp/B011O0N0UQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462237130&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=optical+to+analog+audio&psc=1

Yeah, an optical to balanced analog (XLR) adapter certainly exists, but I haven't been able to find any for under $100.

You could try removing the first 2 pieces of your signal chain with this (unbalanced RCA) DAC. AudioEngine has a pretty good reputation, and reducing the number of analog interconnects might just fix your issue.

Otherwise, here's a cheaper balanced DAC from a vendor I've never heard of before.

Are you sure there isn't a minijack somewhere? Sometimes there are two sets of IOs, e.g. one on the back of the TV, and one on the side.

If there is only an optical out, you'll need a DAC (digital/analog converter) and an amp (you need some sort of amp regardless).

Here's an example of an inexpensive DAC https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO . I have no idea if that's any good; you'll want to get recommendations for the best options, but it would certainly work.

Amps are more complicated, and many people will put as much thought into their amps as they do their speakers. For a solid budget option, the Lepai 2020 https://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp-2020ti-digital-hi-fi-audio-mini-amplifier-with-power-supply--310-3000 will work well. It's a bit underpowered for e.g. the Overnight Sensations, but the higher sensitivity of the C-note should make it suitable unless you want quite high volume.

There are also amps out there with built-in DACs, so will have an optical in and stereo out all in one box.

I would recommend you just get a small DAC with an optical input and RCA outputs. If you don't need anything but a stereo, digital-analog audio converter then it is very overkill. Fiio has something really small I was using at work, and it's perfect for this situation. Just run the optical cable from your motherboard.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

Using an external DAC with optical will provide the least noise of all options (internal sound card, external DAC through USB, or optical) because no conversion happens within the PC. This also allows you a little more freedom of placement because you can get a longer optical cable and place the DAC where you need, closer to your speakers.

Trying to improve my stereo home theater situation with a DAC. I bought a cheap one last month to improve my MP3 playback sound, and while it certainly isn't worse I can't say it's a noticeable improvement. My current setup is Mac Mini optical out -> FIIO D3 -> Yamaha CA810 stereo amp. I'm looking for the best bang-to-buck but I'd like to keep it under $200 if possible.

No, the sound stage is slightly smaller but it doesn't make a difference to me in CSGO or CoD. I've actually been using the 9500s exclusively for the last week since I got them, they are more comfortable and are good for music as well. If you don't have an amp, I would get the sap-vi and a optical DAC (I use the D03k, only if your PC has a optical output)

yep just make sure it's the toslink (fiber) and not coaxial. I don't think the xbox one has coax as well ? I'm sure you're capable of searching amazon but there's the cheapeast one. I'm sure the more you pay the better it'd end up being. :P

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Analog-audio-converter/dp/B004C4WPXA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375568394&sr=8-1&keywords=toslink+to+rca

I've had great success with this cheap Signstek DAC on my budget setup and it gets rid of the coil whine issues I had with my motherboard's sound chip, where when playing games with high fps, there was a weird and very audible electrical noise in the background.

https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE

Measurements show it as pretty decent as well as long as you keep it in 44/16 mode in the windows settings, since 48 mode seems to have issues with noise floor.

https://audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/review-and-measurements-of-budget-20-dacs.1316/

Hmm, good starter amp/dac for Fidelio X2; two products come to mind:

Micca Origen+ ($109)
https://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC

Schiit Fulla 2 ($99)
http://schiit.com/products/fulla-2


There are lots more options, but I believe these are some of the best for a cheap desktop solution.

If your mobo supports optical then you can’t go wrong with the FiiO D3 and SMSL SAP 6. The D3 is a really good, simple dac for the money and the SAP 6 is IMO hands down the best budget headphone amp for the price. For less than 50 bucks you get a clean sounding amp with more than enough juice for the 400i. It drives my HD 600s and 400is just as well as my 02 and vintage receivers.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1523337045&sr=8-5&keywords=dac

https://www.parts-express.com/smsl-sap-vi-headphone-amplifier--230-222

> Would hooking up the X31 to my TV RGB-Out and then plugging the chat cord into the controller adapter work?

As long as it was a dedicated Audio Out (not tied to any single output), it should work fine. I have the X312's w/ XB1's, but the rear of my TV is in a tight spot, so I can't test that.

I use these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EPW7TA

and it works like a champ.

I don't have the chat adapter, so I cannot attest to your second question, but I have to imagine it'd work fine.

Edit: I have X32's, sorry.

/r/zeos is a great sub for stuff like this.

This handy little guide is right up your ally.

I personally just ordered the Micca OriGen+ today because I also need a DAC/Amp for the new HD 558's I ordered along with it.

And for just a little over $100, it's a steal. It's better than the E10k as well, and can handle more expensive headphones like yours. Watch the review for it in the guide I posted to see.

I recommend you purchase this, if your a headphones user:
http://www.amazon.com/Micca-OriGen-High-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01BURJVOC

It's a DAC/amp combo, works beautifully for driving all but the hardest of headphones. Zeos of /r/ZReviews loves it, and so do I.
For that matter, check out that entire sub for recommendations. You don't have to break the bank to have substantial upgrades in your audio experience.

What big square thing? Are you talking about the optical port. This would probably be your best bet. Note: I have not used this so I can’t comment on how it works, but it seems to be what you need. And it is only $13 on Amazon + it has prime.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KNNSKV0/ref=psdcmw_3236443011_t1_B00NJCCAKY

Another plus, I believe optical has the best transmission speed.

Ah, okay. I think the "mini jack" output means you can just get something like this.

Optical is a better option, but since it's a digital output, you'd need a DAC to convert to analog for the amp. If you want to go that route, cheap ones are around $30, and the best you'll ever need is around $100.

Yes, and yes.

The x12 headset requires stereo RCA (red & white) audio jacks to get game audio, and the Xbox One does not provide that. So, you will need something else, and that "something" depends on the rest of your setup. Check for an audio output on the stereo system or TV you plug your Xbone into. If none is available, you can use the Xbone's optical output and something to convert it to RCA -- here is one example I found just searching for "Optical to RCA".

Also, the chat cable (that goes from the headset to the 360 controller) will not plug in to the Xbone controller directly; you will need the Stereo Headset Adapter. Plug it in, and then use the balance controls on the adapter to be completely on "chat", so that it only emits chat audio and not game audio.

Note that you can get away with just using the Stereo Headset Adapter to get both game and chat audio through the controller and the chat cable, but in my experience with the x41 headset, it sounds like crap, because the headset is expecting a mono chat audio source and processes it as such.

Honestly, for the price and hassle, you'd be better off just picking up the Stereo Headset. You'll get the same stereo quality of the x12, but it's just using a single cable connection to your controller, and it'll cost as much or less as the equipment you'd need to get the x12 hooked up.

Something like this?

Is there a better option? I appreciate your help.

Here's Exactly what you are looking for. LINK
there are more inexpensive options, but this one is highly rated and comes with the optical cable

And then one of these to convert the Output (RCA) to 3.5mm
LINK


I'm going to be honest with you. By the time you buy this you would probably be better off buying an inexpensive surround souind with an optical input. Sony also makes wireless headphones that are compatible with the PS3 and PS4
I have this one and they work and sound awesome

Elite Version

Yeah, sounds like you've tried everything. That's odd. It might be a problem with your PS4 but I don't know. You could check your PS4 video output settings. Maybe playing with those settings will fix the issue. Sorry I couldn't be more help.

I will say that I'm happy I upgraded to the Pro. It's not a huge improvement but games do look a little better and have a higher/smoother framerate. Plus, it has an optical audio output, so if you still have trouble with audio extractors, you can use a digital to analog audio converter to get audio from your PS4 to headphones or speakers. You can also add a mixer and get volume control. That's what I use now and it's great.

Digital to analog converter

5 channel mixer

Thank you for your reply!

I guess I am asking for a lot from one device, I can buy an separate dac if that makes things easier, I've heard good things about the FiioD03k. The only downside to the FiioD03k is that I would have to adapt my turntable's rca outputs into coaxial (is that possible? I've never really dealt with coaxial before).

I don't need optical output, I just wanted to mention that I had it available because I thought it might open up more possibilities.

> they do all feature rca analog inputs however, but you would then be using your pc dac as opposed to the dac in this unit

Using analog inputs means you're not using the unit's built-in dac? I'm just trying to make sure I'm understanding correctly.

Thank you again!

I have this same setup and use the below DAC to connect to my PC, works great and will improve sound quality as it is most likely better than your motherboards on-board DAC, it also has a 3.5mm for headphones and in my case was plenty to drive my cans
www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=pd_sim_422_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51A8VIDw6OL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160SR160%2C160&refRID=0HCHW4XJV8AK99ZZ41BH

You can use an optical tos cable connected to an optical to RCA adapter then to an RCA to 1/8th cable and a 1/8th coupler if necessary. I do exactly this in my bedroom. Works great and the sound still comes from the tv too which is great too.

Hey all! Looking to set up a basic, relatively cheap 2.0/2.1 (built-in subwoofers) sound system for a living room projector, primarily for use with an Xbox One. Doesn't need to be very loud or huge on audio fidelity, but after taking a look at the subreddit I've got the following parts list, but I wanted to make sure everything looked correct with the DAC and how it would work with the Xbox.

• Micca PB42X Speakers
  
  
• Which are connected via a pair (one per speaker) of 2RCA audio cables to
  
  
• A FiiO D3 DAC
  
  
• Which is finally connected to the Xbox One via an optical audio cable
  
  Thanks for the advice/help!

Can't say I'm an audiophile, but I've been using this for my xb1 since I got it last year. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EPW7TA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Works great with my old Logitech Z-5300e speakers, haven't noticed any background noise, and sound comes in loud and clear.

I like the klipsch 2.1 for desktop use. Enough bass for an enjoyable experience, I found the sound improved significantly when I added a cheap external DAC like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1518053261&sr=8-5&keywords=dac&dpID=41XxS0L762L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

If your only source is a PS4:


Connect PS4 to an optical audio DAC like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494292669&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=optical+audio+dac&dpPl=1&dpID=51uod%2BuYiQL&ref=plSrch

The output of the DAC can then connect to your receivers audio input (can't see input names on that model as the online pictures are crap)

Connect PS4 hdmi to tv as normal. Make sure you enable optical audio in the PS4 audio menu.

That's how I would set it up anyways. Your tv doesn't have optical output (rare) and your receiver doesn't have hdmi or optical so you're having to do audio analog and video hdmi/digital. Good luck!

I have them running through this DAC, which has its own volume dial. It's also got a headphone jack which is incredibly useful. The speakers themselves are connected to each other with a piece of speaker wire that is held in by a screw, but it looks like you could use different connectors if you want. All in all a very nice system!

This is just a knob with in and out

A headphone DAC / amp combo would have more features and act like an external soundcard. The Micca OriGen+ or the Schiit Fulla 2 are great options if you want something really nice.

Edit: added links

The only way you'll be able to control the TV's volume with a remote is if 1) you output the TV's audio to a component that has a volume control, and 2) your TV's remote can control that component.

​

As u/GbMaxSE said, you could use a simple DAC such as this one, which would let you use your TV's optical audio output and send it to your speakers. You would then be able to control your volume using the knob on the M-Audios. Then you run into the problem of connecting your sub and controlling it's volume.

​

Your next option would be to use something like the Schiit Fulla. This just happens to be a DAC that also has a volume control. In this case, you would connect the Fulla to your TV's optical audio output, then split the signal coming out of the Fulla and route one set of RCA's to your M-Audios and the other to your sub. At this point, you've spent about $99 on the Fulla, $10 on cables, and $10 on shipping, and you still can't control the volume with your TV's remote.

​

Next up, for $150 you can buy this Denon receiver (free shipping), and then you also buy the Micca MB42 speakers for $60 (free shipping, with Prime) or find something on Craigslist. Now you're in it for $210. But now you have a home theater receiver powering some decent entry-level bookshelf speakers, and you can connect your subwoofer to the Denon's subwoofer output. You now have total volume control and most likely can use your TV's remote to control the volume of the Denon. Once you have a basic setup like this, you can upgrade any of the components (speakers, receiver, subwoofer, add more speakers, etc.) independently of one another.

​

We can keep going if you'd like! I love doing this stuff!

According to this your TV has an optical audio output (SPDIF). You'll get much better sound quality if you use that instead of the headphone output.

Use this to convert that digital into analog (output over RCA cables): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4ORTZ6/

Then an amplifier to output to speaker wires: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049P6OTI/ (or, slightly cheaper in black: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2P61FO/)

Cables you'll need, if you don't have them already, are a Toslink/SPDIF cable, a stereo RCA cable, and speaker wires. Buy them from Monoprice, or get ripped off buying them from somewhere else.

If you want even cheaper, you can forego the digital-to-analog converter and connect the headphone output straight to the amp, but if it were me I'd spend the extra $20 on the DAC.

Edit: after some more Amazon searching, I'd go with this DAC instead. A few bucks more, but much better reviews, includes a Toslink cable, and is powered by a standard micro-USB (cell phone charger) plug.

Is there any way to get audio input/output from my ps4 and my PC at the same time? I have a pair of HyperX Cloud IIs, I bought this splitter thing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/

And this cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/

I thought this would work and I'm almost certain I have it all set up right but my PC and ps4 won't recognize it. Any help is greatly appreciated.

If you leave the Impedance set on the '4 ohm' selection, play the amp for an extended period of time and see if it heats up. Because the speakers themselves are only 8 ohms, you should not have a problem.

Does the receiver have a tape monitors in/out? that would be the way to hook up an external EQ, that way you can punch the EQ in or out to your liking. Personally, I haven't hooked up my external EQ in over 5 years, they just impart distortion.

If you want a DAC to simply bypass your onboard analog and don't need any amplifications (since you have the receiver) try the FIIO D3

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-D3-Digital-Converter-Optical/dp/B005K2TXMO

It's cheap and guys around these parts that have them say they do a great job

I saw those they look great (would love more info on those knobs/switches). That's kind of what I had in mind just with a radio backend. When I did my table install in my Jetta a few years back I pulled this mod to relocate the faceplate. With a bit more engineering I could have done just the buttons for a cleaner look but that was an cheaper car so I didn't really care much. I'm looking at doing the same thing in my new car (because manufacturers still think WVGA is an acceptable resolution in 2016) but doing away with the HU and just using a high bitrate DAC to feed the amps. Im thinking the audioengine d1 for now but nothing set. This is why I'm interested to see what you come up with.

You can take a look at the Asus N56JN-EB71:

• 15.6 inch, 1920x1080p display
  
• Intel i7-4700HQ + 8 GB of RAM
  
• 750 GB HDD
  
• Nvidia GT740M with 2 GB of GDDR3 RAM
  
• Price: $849
  
  i7 quad core, enough RAM and storage and a dedicated GPU, so you can play Fifa at higher settings.
  
  A more budget friendly alternative would be the HP ENVY 15t Slim Quad with following specs:
  
  
• 15.6 inch, 1920x1080p display
  
• Intel i7-4712HQ + 8 GB of RAM
  
• 750 GB HDD
  
• Nvidia GTX 850M with 4 GB of GDDR3 RAM
  
• Price: $775 with the coupon code PC599Q4
  
  Similar specs, but comes with a better GPU. Doesn't have an optical drive. I don't know if that could be a deal breaker for you.
  
  > Also some affordable but good for the money sound cards made for notebooks.
  
  Behringer UCA202 Audio Interface is a decent low budget USB audio interface. A fancier alternative (but more expensive) would be an Audioengine D1. In between you will find several Topping DACs. Read some reviews, google around and pick one.

Took a quick look in the users manual, and it looks like the tape out jacks will not output audio coming from Digital inputs. Try using one of the RCA inputs on the rear of the unit, I imagine everything will start working correctly. To get proper sound through the EQ for your PS4, you'll need a DAC to convert the PS4 optical to RCA. Fiio makes an excellent unit for the money ($20 bucks), worked like a charm in my setup. Link below:

FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter

As for the turntable, you'll need a phono pre-amp. This will connect between your turntable, and the receiver. As the receiver does not have a phono stage, the pre-amp is required to both boost the signal from the the turntable as well as applying the RIAA EQ (Wiki link if you're interested) required to make it sound correct. The only one I have ever used and can vouch for was an NAD unit, but there are cheaper options available as well.

NAD PP 2e Phono Preamplifier

Yeah, I got a stereo to mono adapter to effectively merge the two channels into one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000O7AW98/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I got this to hook up to my xbox: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KNNSKV0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Plug that into the xbox via optical (since primary audio went through HDMI and I couldn't easily split that), then the adapter above to merge channels into mono and then into the buttkicker. Works great for consoles.

Hey guys. I have onkyo a-9010 amp and I would like to connect it to PC with the best result in term of quality of sound. At the moment it is connected from PC to cheap dac with optical cable, then from DAC to amp with cheap RCA cables. Sound is ok, but I wonder if it can be better by using other things. What do you guys recommend? My onkyo is UK model, there is no any optical input in opposite to EU version.

DAC: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Digital-Toslink-Converter-Adapter-Optical-Black-96-Khz-2-0ch/dp/B00KNNSKV0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CVXDZ7S5SB6DBBN85GHP

Amp: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Onkyo-A-9010-UK-Integrated-Amplifier/dp/B00SH2JSJW

Speakers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Monitor-Audio-Bronze-2-Walnut/dp/B002LPTH92

• Budget - $150-250 (Could go more, but not too much)
  
• Source - Audioengine D1 DAC
  
• Requirements for Isolation - Not sure, I mainly use my headphones at home.
  
• Preferred Type of Headphone - Over the ear
  
• Preferred tonal balance - I'd like a balanced pair of headphones.
  
• Past headphones - Bose On Ear, Bose QC15, Bose IE 2, Audio Technica ATH-M50 (Current Headphones), Audio Techinca ATH-ANC33iS (Current Earbuds)
  
  
• Preferred Music - Classical, Jazz, Pop, Rock and Techno.
  
  
  
  I've been using the Audio Technica ATH-M50 for three years now. What would be a good pair of headphones to upgrade to? I've been looking into getting one of the old trio, (BD dt880, AKG 701/2, Senn 650), but I'm not too sure what to get. Lately I've been getting tired of the bassy sound of the M50 and have been wanting a more natural sound.
  
  I do have an amp/dac so if that helps. It is the Audioengine D1.
  
  EDIT: I've also been looking at the Hifiman HE400's.

Besides HDMI output which has video and audio in one cable, the Xbox One (original and S) has an Optical Audio output jack. If you need to convert this to a standard 3.5mm headphone jack, Amazon has a ton of options for adapters, so I would do some research on the site for best selling / highest rated. Here is an example - optical audio in, RCA out, comes with an RCA-to-headphone jack cable so you could plug in headphones, PC speakers, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/AutoWT-Digital-Coaxial-Toslink-Adapter/dp/B011O0N0UQ/ref=zg_bs_306896011_4

Sorry if this is way more complicated than necessary but just letting you know these cheap adapters exist for sure. I like this one because of all of the extra cables it comes with. Hope this helps!

PS - if you use this, be sure to go into Xbox audio settings and enable the "optical" audio output.

PPS - you will also lose surround sound when using this device. but if you're just connecting to stereo headphones, a single speaker etc. this should suffice.

You'll need 2 or 3 things to do this cheaply.

Most importantly is an optical S/PDIF DAC, the Fiio D3 is among the cheapest and smallest packages available.

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420920775&sr=8-1&keywords=optical+DAC

That unit comes with the optical Toslink cable you'll need. You also need a stereo RCA cable. Length will depend on your setup, but you probably won't need anything long. Monoprice is a good inexpensive cable supplier.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=pd_sim_e_9?ie=UTF8&refRID=0D43HPKDVJ2NTMMRYPE0

Now some TVs use a mini-toslink jack for Digital Audio out, it'll have the same size connector as a ⅛" headphone connector. The standard toslink is a pentagon shaped connector usually with a shutter to protect it from dust. If you have the ⅛" mini-toslink you'll also need an adapter such as this, if you have standard the included cable with the Fiio will work.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-102671-Toslink-Female-Adapter/dp/B001V5HQAU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1420921060&sr=1-2&keywords=mini-toslink

Does the monitor have a 1/4" jack on it? The HDMI feeds sounds from the Xbox, so if the monitor has some type of audio-out jack, that would be the easiest way to connect your speakers to it. Second best way would be to buy a converter for optical to analog. Something like this

Do you have optical out on your motherboard? I had this issue for so long and finally fixed it with an optical to 3.5mm box like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KNNSKV0

I also use an old Fiio E6 and that's great for the price too, though there're probably better options at this point.

I remember hearing about people needing to use the Xbox One controller adapter but now that the new controller come with the 3.5" port you shouldn't need that adapter anymore... so sound like the headset isn't compatible. There is 1 more possible option you can do.. if you want to spend some money.

Get this and get this

Plug your headset into the female end of the splitter. Plug one of the male ends into 3.5" port on the audio conversion box. Plug the other male end into the 3.5" port on your controller.

Connect the conversion box with the Optical In and Optical Out on the Xbox One. Go into Xbox One Audio setting and set HDMI audio off (if you don't want audio coming from the TV/monitor) and set the Optical/Digital Out to Stereo. Very important it is set to Stereo, not 5.1 or 7.1, that won't work.

This is the only other option that I see working to allow you to get audio from the Xbox and audio game chat and mic input into the controller. Hope this makes sense.

I'd highly recommend this dac if you care about sound quailty. It is doing an amazing job for the money.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KH2BW8ZS5XZQCS2VPB7K

edit: sorry this dac will only work for base ps4 and ps4 pro owners.

I'm looking for the cheapest way to connect my RCA speakers into my PC while still getting good quality. I know I can get the 3.5mm to RCA and just plug it into my desktop PC's single line out Jack (the integrated sound card doesn't have 5.1... Just three 3.5mm ports).

I was looking at getting a soundcard but it seems like a better idea would be to get USB DAC with a R and L RCA for my Swan M10 speakers.

I am considering:

Signstek USB DAC (http://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Decoder-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE/ref=sr_1_11?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1436249483&sr=1-11&keywords=usb+digital+audio+converter&pebp=1436249517158&perid=1T2Q01GX3ASW2DERY0PV) and the Behringer UCA222 (http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA222-BEHRINGER-U-CONTROL/dp/B0023BYDHK/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1436603887&sr=1-1&keywords=behringer+uca&pebp=1436604042407&perid=1MZWF1NBM3SWS08ZG4HM) I 

I need a DAC & Amp to use with my Philips SHP9500s on my PC.

Budget: $50 - $100

Necessary Features: USB Input, External Power(non portable)

My onboard audio sounds pretty good (Asus Z97-AR motherboard), but it is very noisy. I also have this cheapo USB adapter which sounds awful, but it's quiet. I use the audio adapter for my V-Moda Mic and I plan to keep using it because the mic is very clear with it.

 

The most recommended products seem to be the Fiio E10k and the Micca Origen. I think the Micca is perfect, but it's over budget. The Fiio has all the features I need too, but reviews seem to be mixed about actual sound quality.

My biggest question is whether there is an appreciable difference between the 192kHz Micca and the 96kHz Fiio. Also, are there any other obvious contenders that I'm overlooking?