Reddit mentions: The best dimensional measurement products

Chamfer/deburr - the two you have listed fit on a case prep machine that I don't see listed. One like this, made by every manufacturer, is all that is needed https://www.midwayusa.com/product/465641/rcbs-chamfer-and-deburring-tool-17-to-60-caliber or https://www.midwayusa.com/product/171844/hornady-deluxe-4-blade-chamfer-and-deburring-tool

For a bench priming tool, this one https://www.midwayusa.com/product/457599/rcbs-automatic-bench-priming-tool is more highly reviewed, and the one I use now. First 15 yrs I primed on the RockChucker press. Or get a hand-primer as suggested. Got extra space on your bench, get it. Wanna watch TV and prime, get a hand tool. Up to you really.

And get the shorter handle for the press https://www.midwayusa.com/product/528383/forster-co-ax-single-stage-press-short-handle , much easier to work with. I do 7mag, .270, 30-06, and haven't felt the need for the unwieldly standard longer handle yet.

This guy makes a much better set of jaws for the press. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BpFD7NbvL8 . Worth it? Take Forsters jaws on/off a few times. Then you'll say YUP. I'm honestly surprised Forster hasn't bought this guy out or designed their own like this.

One thing I have found with the Forster press vs O-ring presses, is that the Forster forces you to sit more in front of it, to facilitate 2 handed operation, and thus slightly farther away from the workbench. The O-ring style presses are more open to your left hand placing and picking up cases. Lefties gotta work at it with O-ring presses. I managed to angle my press slightly on my bench to minimize this realization.

As u/unrulywind mentioned, a decapping die is nice to have so you can remove the primer, clean the case, then get to work without getting any grit into your dies, my choice https://www.midwayusa.com/product/211699/hornady-universal-depriming-and-decapping-die

As for neck sizing dies, they are something you could get later if you find a need for it. I'd wait until you are more familiar with the process, and then go with a bushing bump neck die like Forster makes https://www.forsterproducts.com/product/bushing-bump-neck-sizing-dies/ , or a Redding https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1018049293/redding-type-s-bushing-full-length-sizer-die . If you're going down this rabbit hole you would probably want to get a good neck turner/reamer https://www.midwayusa.com/case-neck-turners-and-reamers/br?cid=10455 . But going down this rabbit hole this early on is not necessary. Most never do. Aren't most of the bench-rest guys going with full length sizing now?

And as u/-RicFlair mentions, the comparator tools would be more useful to you earlier on than the neck sizing/reaming tools. This is the comparator body with bullet ogive inserts. https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/bullet-comparators/lnl-comparator-body-w-14-inserts-prod36535.aspx . You should be able to find just a body and a .30 cal insert. And then these fit the same comparator body but measure shoulder bump https://www.brownells.com/reloading/measuring-tools/bullet-comparators/sinclair-bump-gage-insert-prod35265.aspx . Just for clarity, all this paragraph attaches to your caliper tool, so as u/-RicFlair also mentions, this is a reason to have 2 or more calipers. I have one dial caliper (never needs batterys) and one electronic which makes it easier to zero-out the comparator body + insert, so you're getting true lengths without having to perform subtraction, or re-zeroing a dial caliper.

This electronic caliper has been found to be accurate and inexpensive and the one I use https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525514664&sr=8-1&keywords=origincal . Keep extra 2032 batteries around! They give an extra battery in the case, but you don't want to be caught without. It matches up with my more expensive Brown & Sharpe dial caliper exactly, so far.

All my new cases also get prodded once with this tool https://www.midwayusa.com/product/729748/lyman-flash-hole-uniformer-tool . And after every firing (or 2) with one of these https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=primer+pocket+cleaner&userItemsPerPage=48 . Note that the steel pin wet tumblers will clean this debris out, but the tool is so cheap why not have a manual version for those once off/extra dirty times.

Case cleaning: 4 choices in approx $ low-\>high - wipe by hand cloth - dry media tumbler - sonic solution wet vibe - steel pin wet tumbler. The last one is the latest invention and the one to go to if you want/need shiny clean. https://www.cabelas.com/product/shooting/reloading/case-cleaning/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/104661180/platinum-series-rotary-tumbler-l/1811194.uts?slotId=0 Does an amazing job. Do you want to wet tumble every time? Perhaps not, so one of these is the original standby https://www.cabelas.com/product/shooting/reloading/case-cleaning/pc/104792580/c/104761080/sc/104661180/thumlers-tumbler-ultra-vibe-tumbler/705516.uts?slotId=8 . Still using the one i got since um lets see 1972ish, so wow, yeah 46 yrs ago. LOL. I won't recommend any other dry media tumbler.

Powder measure - can't go wrong with something like this https://www.midwayusa.com/product/759813/redding-match-grade-3br-powder-measure-with-universal-metering-chamber . You might need a stand to go with https://www.midwayusa.com/product/552580/redding-rs-6-powder-measure-bench-stand . I see that Redding has come out with a few more powder measures since I last gandered at them, so pick what u want.

Powder Trickler - https://www.midwayusa.com/powder-tricklers/br?cid=9212 your pick, they all should be decent, but I'd pick the Frankford first, RCBS 2nd. $20 ish. The Redding is too short, don't know why they haven't realized it yet. Still good, but theres better for your money.

Powder funnel - https://www.midwayusa.com/s?userSearchQuery=powder+funnel&userItemsPerPage=48 . You can buy the pricey aluminum ones if you must have the best of the best, but the $5 jobbers have been doing the same job for a long time too, for the other 99.5% of us.

Scale - find an old used Lyman M5 or RCBS 505/510/1010 on ebay. Seriously. The ones that were made in good ole USofA. If it doesn't work to your satisfaction, there is a guy here that will re-tune to better than original. http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/tag/scott-parker/ . Or get an elec/batt scale. People seem to like the RCBS ChargeMaster https://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-ChargeMaster-Combo/741110.uts?slotId=0

Pick up another couple reloading manuals, Hornadys and Noslers. You can find bullet/charge weights online too, but say power or internet goes out, you've nothing to do, so may as well reload some. You want to pick another load to work up. What do? One manual is not enough.

Also useful to find an older volume of the same manuals at gunshows/shops in your area. I think Hornady is up to 10th ed. Find a 2nd or 3rd ed. to see how much the lawyers have caught on to our game.

I know Forster is still made in USA. I think Redding and Hornady too. But RCBS has left this shore and it shows. Thats why my money goes to the first 3. You can't go wrong swapping their versions for what I've suggested here.

When you have another wad of cash burning a hole in your pocket, and you've digested what you're doing thus far, there are other gauges/accessories/rabbit holes to fall into and spend your hard earned dough on. Hit me up, I've got more suggestions.

Gotta like spending other peoples money !!!!

SAFETY GLASSES. Depending on how youre removing support material, those tiny peices of plastic can go flying, and I've ended up being saved by my blinking reflex more than once. Just get a cheap pair and use them. Support material will go flying towards your eyes, its not a safety cliche.

Everyone says to use a heat gun to clean up stringing(which can still occur even with near-perfect retraction settings, its just the nature of plastic.), but i prefer a butane pocket torch. Just quickly flicking the switch will vaporize the strings, without waiting for a loud heat gun to heat up, potentially warp your parts if theyre thin, and set it down to cool. Just dont hold a flame to your parts, they will ignite. A very brief(fraction of a second) flame works perfectly. If youre just using your printer for functional parts right now, dont worry about this.

A pair of curved tweezers for picking plastic off of the nozzle before/during(if youre OCD)/after a print (depending on how your cooler is setup). Side note- if your nozzle is really dirty, heat it up to ~200c and brush it with a wet qtip. Works great without scraping the nozzle with a wire brush.

X-acto blades #17 and #11. #17 is great for removing support material. Just please make sure youre not pushing the blade in the direction of your hand/leg/chest/eye/other body part.

As far as finishing prints- I've only used sandpaper, but a resin like xtc-3d is also popular.

Calipers. Get a nice pair of calipers.

As far as modding your printer.... https://www.trimcraftaviationrc.com/ has all the nuts & bolts you might need for great prices.

As far as software goes, I used to use simplify3d but after switching to slic3r prusa edition i think its amazing. Join https://www.facebook.com/groups/prusacommunity/ and get chris warcocki's pretty PLA profiles for slic3r. Really great facebook group, they'll keep you updated on all the latest mk3 improvements/news

Oh, and get some isopropyl alcohol, at least 90%. Wipe down the bed with it after every single print. Occasionally wipe with acetone, but not too often.

As far as filament goes, everyone has different recommendations. Avoid makergeeks. Great filament, horrible company. Atomic is great, but $30/kg which is a bit much for daily PLA, especially if its just going to be used for light brackets or whatever. I've been trying lots of manufacturers and i just ordered some makeshaper, i'll update in a few days if its lives up to the expectations.


Youre going to love your mk3.

Not an expert, but

I'd focus on the drive train issues first, get all those tires working, might be a lost cause before going any deeper, but others will have to help with that, I take that kind of stuff to my mechanic.

Brake pedal could be that it's low on brake fluid, or one of the brake calipers is stuck.

My quad has a foot brake like that and a hand brake, but the foot brake only brakes 1 tire. That tire has two brake calipers on it's roter, one to the foot break and one to the hand brake. So the hand brake is all 4 wheels, and the foot brake is 1 wheel. There is a master cylinder on my hand brake and another on my right rear tire (foot brake). If my foot brakes master cylinder runs low or springs a leak, my pedal goes through the floor like in your pic but I'll still have brakes on the hand brake. It's like a double/emergency braking system. If my hand brake goes out I can down shift (engine brake) and lay on that foot brake to brake and not hit a tree...
___

Fuel wise, it's likely carburetor being old. The carburetor should have a primer on it that injects gas into the carb when you press/pull it. Those generally have a diaphragm in them (rubber) that tends to go bad over time and cause a fuel leak.

If you can find a diagram of the carburetor that would help emensely.

Really though, you should take the whole carburetor off, take it apart and give it a bath in carb cleaner (no plastic/rubber in there) and clean all the jets out.

Also, they make rebuild kits for most carb's that come with all new jets, and pilot screw etc. See if you can find one. I typically just replace them all, easier and then I have spares.

Also, inspect the carb's vent hose and make sure it's intact and not clogged. Check the fuel line too, for damage/rot.

You should also remove the gas tank and clean it out. Take the petcock off and inspect the filters and valve, then clean the whole gas tank out so there's no dirt/bad gas in there.

Then check/change the spark plug(s). Before running it though, I'd check the valve clearance on the valves, guides on that online.

Once all that's done, it should run good and not leak gas.

Then you can address your other issues.

Pending how old it is, there are some parts I might replace just because:

• Voltage Regulator
  
• Starter Solenoid
  
• Starter
  
  If the current ones are working, call them spares.
  
  Starters and solenoids are cheap, voltage regulators OEM are expensive, but you can buy a few after markets pretty cheap to have spares.
  
  Tool wise, I can recommend at least the following:
  
  
• Wire/Brushes
  
• Jack/Lift
  
• Compression Tester
  
• [Feeler Guages] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BYGIR4) You want these to go from at least .002 to .014 inches
  
• [Caliper] (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/) If you need to measure float height, you want to be accurate.
  
• Angle Finder Useful for float height, as most carbs need to be held at a specific angle for accurate float height adjustment.
  
  Then your typical ratchet sets, air tools, impact guns, etc.
  
  And socket extensions (long ones) because getting to some things is a royal pita.

Listen: this time I am going to help you out but please understand much of this hobby is learning to do stuff for yourself. There is a ton of problem solving based on intuition, ability to search for others solutions, and taking shit apart. You will not have very much fun if you aren't willing to put in the work.

For the time being just fold up pieces of paper to shim the feet. You really need a carpenters square and a line level to make sure everything is square.

Start with the table. If the surface you are trying to level your system on isn't level then leveling the system is going to be impossible. You want gravity to help you not hurt you.

[Here] (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631) is the link for z braces.

I also highly recommend [this mod] (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1454073)

Once those are installed and properly calibrated then everything on the frame should be square.

Next step is to get have you system properly trammed. That is essentially leveling the build plate to the extruder. With the pressed sheet metal plate on there it cannot be done properly. You need to get a much thicker aluminum carriage. Somebody else in this thread already offered to sell you one. I for one am a big fan of supporting the maker community and think you should take him up on that offer as the same thing online costs about the same amount.

Here are the tools you need to be successful in this endeavor. A proper magnetic line level. I got mine at harbor freight for a few dollars. A carpenter's square the bigger the better IMO about 1 foot on each side. And a good pair of calipers. The calipers are the most expensive tool on this list but you don't need top of the line Mitotuyos. At work we have the Mits but at home I use [these.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

If you are willing to put the time in this hobby is great, very informative, and useful for all times of machining in the future.

Good luck I wish you well.

I have a Maker select. It's my first and only 3D printer so my review compared to others is unreliable.

Here's a copy/paste of a review I did on it about a month ago. It's long but detailed with links:

I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.

I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.

When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.

THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.

My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1

So, now to answer your question...

> How do you like your Maker Select?

I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.


As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:

• IKEA enclosure - $115
  
• LEDs for Inside enclosure - $25
  
• MK-9/10 Extruder Gear - $9
  
• Micro Swiss All Metal hot End - $50
  
• Micro Swiss Lever - $18 (Totally not necessary, but Micro Swiss's support was AMAZING to deal with, and I wanted to support them so I purchased this as well.
  
• Misc. M3 and M4 Screws, etc. - ~$25 in total between Amazon Orders and Lowe's for things needed for mods.
  
• New 40mm fan because I broke the blade on the one I had. There are cheaper ones than this. - $14
  
• 50mm blower fan - $8
  
  So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:
  
  DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.
  
  z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.
  
  Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.
  
  
• Lowe's glass - $4 for 2 pieces of 7.9"x7.9" glass
  
• Borosilicate Glass - $12 - Amazing adheasing with PLA and ABS. Don't use it right now, though because I'm printing in PETG and I read on here that PETG eats borosilicate glass.
  
• Lithium Grease - $7. When I changed my bearing blocks, I had issues with sticking so I purchased some of this to help smoothing out the bearing movement on the polished rods.
  
• 3D print removal tool - $5. Printer comes with a larger scraper, but I needed something a bit more fine (thin) and this thing is perfect.
  
• Spare bearings - $13 because I broke one of them when swapping to 3d Printed bearing blocks.
  
• Digital Calipers - $18
  
  That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.
  
  

Ok. I now have an understanding of your problem. To restate for those that were as confused as I was:

The bed is NEITHER level or trammed. Instead OP is relying on the "auto bed leveling" wherein an end stop or the nozzle is probed at several XY positions on the bed and then this information is used to offset the build accordingly.

Honestly I've been opposed to this method since people started doing it on RepRaps a few years ago. I believe I've seen discussions of doing what you would like to do previously in the reprap forums but I could not find anything with a quick search (http://forums.reprap.org/). As stated elsewhere you'd only really need 2 adjustments, but that's still 2 more motors you need to control and they only need to be controlled at the start of a print.

It seems like a huge increase in complexity when the same effect can be achieved with 3 screw knobs once a month. That doesn't make it any less interesting and I encourage you to try it out. An added complexity here is that Josef's Mendel moves the table in the Y-direction, so now you have to move those motors too.

Just in case this helps you, here is my tramming method:

1. I use a .1mm feeler gauge instead of paper. I heat the bed to the operating temperature first. I run my printers leveling script (you could just jog the X-Y axes around) and slide the feeler gauge in at each of the points. I adjust until there is friction but the gauge isn't stuck. Ensure that your nozzle tip is clean first!
   
   
2. If any one of the knobs required more than 1 turn of adjustment I do it all over again. This time all the movements should be smaller and have less of an effect on the other positions.
   
   
3. I run one of WHPthomas's interactive leveling prints. These basically print a 1 layer object. As it is printing you can adjust your bed until everything looks good. The nice thing here is, your build surface is warm and you're laying down material to ensure tram.
   
   This whole process takes at most 10 minutes. Once it's done I can print confidently for at least 100 hrs of print time (about 2 weeks for us).
   
   If you need to substantially change temperature settings, retram. I don't typically switch materials all too often though. Cheers.
   
   Feeler gauges: http://www.amazon.com/Metric-Thickness-Feeler-Gauge-0-02-1-00mm/dp/B0052IRYVS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427385860&sr=8-1&keywords=.1mm+feeler+gauge
   
   WHPthomas tramming prints: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39430
   
   

As the others said, stick to Maya or 3ds max. Learning C4D once you know other packages is pretty easy, but for employment you really want one of the Autodesk packages.

Also, I've found the best way to learn to do 3D modeling is to do it as often as possible. No substitute for hours spent trying and failing. Almost everything you model has unique needs and requirements, so watching tutorials can only help so much. You need to just get in there and start creating, hit a wall on how some part of it should be made, then go research the best technique. A good example is how best to drill holes in surfaces, many people trip up on this.

I would recommend you start by choosing simple real-world objects and model them, whether they are things in your room or products, etc. Go on Amazon and buy a pair of calipers (such as these) and use them to take measurements of real world objects as you model them. This will help you get everything proportionally correct, AND make the job easier. Guessing proportions is a good way to make everything look off.

Hard to say for sure without knowing his shop, so you'd probably want to try to scope out any recommendations for specific stuff to see if he already has something similar before you buy.

A good suggestion that I think always works well for any budget is to go to a local hardwood dealer and just pick out a selection of interesting exotic lumber, any woodworker will always appreciate getting cool woods to use in their projects.

If you want to have some ideas for stocking stuffers / tools though I'll list some cool things that I think are not super common that I enjoy owning or make my life easier.

Tiny-T Pocket rule

6" precision t rule

A really nice miter gauge

Router setup bars

A nice marking knife

Marking gauge

Magports

Tapeboss

Grr-ripper

Dozuki & Ryoba

Alexa (Alexa, what is 5 and 3/8 times 16... Alexa set reminder for 30 minutes to spray the second coat... Alexa order shop towels... etc, it's actually really useful, and it plays music too)

Shop apron

Quick sanding strips

Digital Angle Gauge

Digital Height Gauge

Anything from Woodpeckers is pretty much guaranteed to be great, albeit kinda pricey

This is a really solid starter kit. Regarding Turn Left at Orion-- it is a good reference book, but I find myself using the mobile app "Sky Safari Pro" every night I get a chance-- it's a very easy and intuitive app to find objects in the sky and get detailed information on each. When you find an object and click on it, it will tell you its exact coordinates in the sky... when paired with something like a Wixey Inclinometer:

https://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-Type-Digital-Backlight/dp/B00T6YZ0K6/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F5YD2EXBRDSNZF1R10JS

...It makes it very easy to find things. As long as the Wixey is calibrated properly, you just adjust the telescope's inclination readout on the Wixey to match the inclination of the target object on the app, and then simply rotate the telescope to the general area of sky you need to be in. The app can also serve as a map for doing "star hopping". (Make sure to have some clear red tape to cover the bright green lighted screen, otherwise it can hurt dark adapted eyes).

The Z8 or AD8 are much better, solid choices over the Orion. You're an awesome wife! I asked my wife for a telescope for Valentine's and she got me one.... I wound up getting crazy obsessed and now have 5 telescopes. i hope you can enjoy the hobby with your hubby!

Sorry for the delayed response!

I appreciate the compliment, sometimes I still get the feeling like I'm over my head with this stuff, but I still want to help however I can. Qui docet discit, as they say...

OK, if your results are coming back that far off, I would take a big step back and start with the basics. From what you've told me, my first guess is that the steps/mm for your towers is off. In your case, I would throw the assumption that your towers are all moving the same right out the window for now, and check each tower independently:

• Remove the effector and the delta arms completely.
  
  
• Use G28 to home the empty carriages to Z_max.
  
  
• Pick a tower and stick a piece of tape on the column in a way that you can use as a reference for the starting position of the carriage on that tower. Personally, I put the bottom of the tape in line with the centerline of the lowest wheel. Technically speaking, you can do this for all three towers at the same time, but imho that increases the chances for human error.
  
  
• Use G91 to switch to relative positioning, and then G1 Z-100 to (attempt to) move the towers down 100mm.
  
  
• Put another piece of tape on the tower using the same reference point as you did before, and measure the distance between the two. If you don't have digital calipers, stand up, find your way to a hardware store, and buy them. Now. There is no tool more important in your 3D printing arsenal than a set of quality digital calipers. but I digress... If the distance between your reference points is not exactly 100.00mm, adjust your steps/mm... The simplest formula is
  
  (Current steps/mm) x (Expected mm traveled) / (Actual mm traveled)
  
  If that doesn't work, or if your steps/mm is still off, it's probably still a firmware setting, so try the following one at a time:
  
  
• If you're using a microstepping, cut it in half, or quarters if you'd like (don't forget to do the same thing to your tower's steps/mm!!!). Oh, and if you're using interpolation, don't.
  
  
• Trim down your max acceleration setting, again by 50% or 25%, and lower your speed settings too.
  
  
• Quadruple-check that your bed is 100% flat, and make sure the points on the bed being probed are completely clean. I use FSRs, which uses nozzle-contact with the bed as the trigger. This method only works if the hotend is at operating temperature, otherwise there's likely a hard glob of plastic stuck to the tip of the nozzle. However, running it at temp while probing means that a tiny bit of plastic is left behind after every probe. For longer than I'd like to admit, these little blobs started stacking up and interfering with the probe results, even though they were barely visible!
  
  Don't give up! Running a 3D printer is an exercise in patience, and I find it extremely gratifying when it works! Trust me, you'll start keeping backups of your config settings, it's a hard lesson that most operators don't need to experience twice.
  
  What you're in the middle of is exactly the kind of situation where "you have to know how to walk before you can run" applies, except in an extreme case like this, you have to learn to crawl first.
  
  I'll help in whatever way I can! If you'd like, put your config and config-override files on pastebin, and I'll take a look to see if anything stands out!

So this is a month old but I have some insight if you haven't already started a certain path.

I just bought a 300blk upper for my pistol. I have a lot of 223 brass I've saved to and decided to reload for 223 to save some money. Well I'm pretty well into reloading for 223 and decided i would start for 300blk as well. The equipment isn't too expensive (relatively) if you get some Cabela's sales and buy some discounted gift cards. Full equipment with necessary parts will run about $250 after everything (can be cheaper if you buy a bundle pack).

This kit

Digital caliper

Initial 300blk dies

Trimming die

Trimmer

Case lube

That's pretty much it for the equipment side. Then you'll need bullets, powders, and primers.

If you're starting out with 223 brass you may want to cut the case before trimming, but you'll need something to cut it with. If you buy some ammo to shoot and collect the casings you can't use them too.

I have everything I need for 300blk except powder pretty much. I just need to find something to use.

So $250 for equipment and 1k round of 223 reloading will cost me about $175. That's $425 for the first 1k round of just 223. Once I buy stuff for 308, 300blk, and 9mm I'll start saving in much higher quantities per round. I think I'll probably actually start saving money through reloading in a couple months if I shoot as regularly as I'd like. I still buy ammo on sales and all, so I typically don't count brass into my cost for a reloaded round. On average it's about $.18/round (for .223) if I don't find good deals.

Edit: so I just went through and did some calculating. .178cpr for 223, .285cpr for 300blk, and .362cpr for 308 of I get good sales and free shipping.

I have this one! It looks like it's gotten more expensive recently, but sometimes you can find it for just around $100. As far as I know, it's about the cheapest reliable one you can get. A quick list of pros and cons:

Pros

- Both accurate and precise. For a relatively inexpensive meter, it's very good! Based on the calibration shims they give you, mine has been just about spot on, and hasn't needed recalibrating in the 2 or 3 years I've had it.

- Works on both steel and aluminum!

- Long lasting battery; only had to replace the battery once in the time I've used it.

Cons

- Does not give you separate readings for different layers. To be fair, this is the realm of $2k machines. The trick to estimating here is to measure the paint on the door jambs; the clear coat is thinnest there. Subtract that amount from the total and you'll get some idea of how thick the clear is!

- Metal tip; it won't damage the paint if you're careful, but that means it's risky if you're not careful!

- .....that's it, honestly. It's awesome.

​

If you do paint correction regularly, it's a no brainer. If you're just doing your own car and are relatively knowledgable about its history, it's not really worth it. You're unlikely to burn through the clear even on heavy corrections unless you're doing it repeatedly. If you feel that it's necessary even just for peace of mind though, go for it!

Knowing that he made a 4 ft x 4 ft cnc machine, I would venture to guess it would be a cnc router and he is planning to mainly cut wood and maybe some aluminum. That said I really wouldn't buy expensive machinist tools if you wanted to better budget your money.


Here are some stuff that can be made on a cnc router:
http://www.shopbottools.com/mSupport/projects.htm


I'm assuming he may have told you what kind of stuff he could build or wanted to build when he said he wanted to build one. If it was for wood projects, then you can get a good 6 in. digital caliper under $40, such as these:


http://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W
I have the large readout version of that one by the way.


Not sure what he plans to use for clamping his stuff down to the table, but here's a great option:
http://www.rockler.com/hold-down-clamp-5-1-2l-x-1-1-8w


OK, you built a cnc router, but what do you make? Here are some 3D files for purchase:
http://www.vectorart3d.com/


This 3D router bit set will work for sign making (not sure what diameter bit he needs, and also add some spiral bits)

http://www.rockler.com/rockler-3-pc-signmaking-router-bit-set

This is a great work shop apron because these shoulder straps are more comfortable than the ones the just go around your neck. Also the mesh pockets let saw dust fall out instead of collecting in there.

http://m.duluthtrading.com/store/mens/mens-workshop/tool-bags-tool-belts/85021.aspx

If your not sure what he plans to cut them a gift card is always welcomed.

I cant' speak for other people, but in my case, I have an interest in building and making things outside of work, so I have invested time into learning how to use Fusion 360, and also purchased calipers (specifically this one) to get accurate measurements.

For this particular model, I had the broken part, and could measure everything using the pieces I had and the calipers. Using those measurements I could use Fusion 360 to model the part.

If you want to get started with making your own things, I would suggest first learning a program like Fusion. Tinkercad is a great starting point for people with no 3D modeling experience because it's free and is easier than a CAD program. Once you are comfortable with that, I would start tinkering with Fusion 360. Maker's Muse has a playlist that was helpful for me.

From there, it's whatever you think of to create.

You can be assembled and printing with the included tools in about half an hour, with no prior 3D printer experience. That's not a problem.

Actually getting the most out of the printer though, that depends on what you want to use it for.

I use it for making functional prints, replacement parts, and sometimes cool trinkets. I am not an artist, if you want to model and print sculptures, good luck. I haven't a clue.

If you're like me and want to make what I make, here's a list of things you should get:

• Calipers. Measuring is so important. I have these.
  
• M3 nuts/bolts. Possibly also M4 and M5 depending on what you're putting together. I bought this.
  
• Nylon locknuts. They won't shake loose over time, good for making thumbscrews with. My choice.
  
  Things you should print:
  
  
• Z-braces.
  
• DiiiCooler
  
• Thumbscrews, there are loads of M3 nyloc-insert thumbscrew designs on thingiverse, pick one you like the look of. The ones that came with the printer sucked though, and nylocs are great.
  
  Things you should download:
  
  
• Get the latest Cura, I think it might still be in beta. Don't use the version it comes with, you'll be missing out.
  
• Fusion 360. It's free for hobbyists and businesses making under 100k/yr. Learn to use it.
  
• Not a download, but try some Tinkercad tutorials and see what you think of that. It's more of a "light" software than Fusion is, meant for children, but both have their place and have slightly different features, despite being made by the same people. Sometimes Tinkercad is easier to use than Fusion for a certain task, most of the time it's the other way around for me though.
  
  While I'm making suggestions, I'd say you should get some PLA and PETG to start with, ignore ABS entirely. It's slightly cheaper per kilogram, but there are toxic fumes to worry about and it really needs an enclosure to print (well).
  
  PLA is cheap enough, but doesn't flex as much as ABS so it's better for different applications. PETG is like the best parts of PLA and ABS, but you have to print at lower speeds.
  
  I print at 45mm/s, 5 second minimum layer time using both PLA and PETG and it works perfectly. 210C/60C for PLA and 250/70 for PETG.
  
  If you have any questions, you know where to find me. :)

It takes a while to dial in your printer. There's a bit of a learning curve, but it's not too steep and... It's totally worth it! Your print quality will increase dramatically after you tweak some of the underlying settings. Here are a couple of things you need to do if you haven't already done them.

1. Adjust your E-steps (extruder steps per mm of filament) to the correct value. From what I've seen on this forum, most Enders are preset too low, causing underextrusion issues right out of the box. The preset value is 93. I had to adjust mine to 98.9 after running through this following procedure: https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/
   
   
2. Next, grab your digital caliper ( I recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KUC6XQ) and calculate your flow rate. This is a bit more demanding, but it's also something you should do. BTW, this article has a built-in flow calculator (use it!) and, if I recall correctly, Cura's "aspect ratio" is 1.1: http://www.desiquintans.com/flowrate
   
   Good luck and happy printing!

Very cool and informative video. Really neat use of salvaged parts and the guy is intelligent and skilled. However I think he kind of down plays and under estimates the cost of the product and tools he was using and he also mentions the fact that you can buy a lathe (that would almost certainly work better) for a similar price. The big kicker is the other tools. The tools to use and or build this lathe would cost more than the machine itself. I'm going to link you some of the tools you'd want to be able to use this machine effectively (and make it).

This granite block will be the basis for all of your measurements it is extremely flat. You'd probably want to make a stand for it and it is very heavy as well. The 933$ version would be ideal for bigger stuff but maybe you could just make small stuff it's a small lathe anyways so lets say the 235$ version

https://www.amazon.com/HHIP-4401-1812-Granite-Surface-Accuracy/dp/B01LTHIHCK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=granite%2Bblock&qid=1569402248&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1

Mitutoyo Digital Caliper 120$ The waterproof version is better if you intend to use coolant. I think you could use cheaper no name ones for the ones that he built into the machine but you would need one good one.

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=mitutoyo+digital+calipers&qid=1569402063&s=gateway&sprefix=mitutoyo+digital&sr=8-3

Range dial indicator (runout gauge). He used one in the video and you'd be using one a lot. 219$

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-64PKA075-Indicator-Magnetic-Plastic/dp/B007XZIT5I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=runout+gauge+mitutoyo&qid=1569402528&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Micrometer set with standards. 354$

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-103-922-Micrometer-Standards-Graduation/dp/B0006J42OA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=mitutoyo+micrometer&qid=1569403065&s=gateway&sr=8-5

That's just getting started. Now you might be able to find some of this stuff used but I'm not sure if I would trust it. You wouldn't believe how careless people treat tools that cost several hundred dollars. If you did go used I'd try to find someone getting rid of their personal tools, not shop tools.

This isn't to discourage you though. I just want people to realize it's not easy or cheap. I'd start out with a lathe for wood and make stuff on it that doesn't need the tight tolerances.

Check out this guy. https://youtu.be/yCaGW9z4blM

this one is a plastic head Caliper. Now these are cheap and flimsy but should be fine for regular day to day measurements. Just about any caliper around 30$ should also be fine and definitely better than the 10$ set. I wont link any of those since there are plenty and you should make your own informed purchase on those. If you plan on printing parts that need really tight tolerances id recommend saving up your pennies to to buy a better quality set. But these should be fine for casual measurements.

1. Off the top of my head, for rifle you need calipers, case trimmer, die set to get started. Bullet puller, notebook, primer pocket swager is often of use.
   
2. The 5-0-5 scale is wonderful. Works without batteries, accurate and repeatable.
   
3. Depends on your scope of use. For the absolute smallest "holes on paper" consistency is key. With speed comes compromise. I use a powered trimmer (Frankfort Arsenal Case Case Prep Center with replacement rcbs Carbide cutter) but I'm balancing volume over absolute precision. +/- 002" is good enough for my skills and firearms.
   
4. Sounds good, thats what I use, but opinions vary.
   
5. I picked up this iGaging several years ago, its been good to me. No outstanding issues, but I'm not a professional machinist.
   
6. All my stuff is legacy and the newest press I have is a 2015 Forster Co-Ax and I find it terrible for on-press priming. I prefer hand-priming to judge my brass' primer pocket feel (time to load one more time and chuck it).
   
   
   So with your scope of use, reloading might not be the path best taken given the monetary outlay. There's plenty of scary good factory ammo (I'm a fan of the Hornady SuperPerformance line) where it does almost as good as my reloads, minus the hassle and labor. If you said you were shooting 69/77gr match stuff, I could almost definitely tell you to fire up the press.
   
   If you intend to reload for other centerfire, especially large bore, or rimmed stuff, then the decision to grab a press is almost a given.

Clamps are important, and when it comes to clamps never buy an odd number. Get a mix of different types: quick grips are great for quickly clamping things together one-handed; f-style clamps are great for their reach and pressure, and pipe clamps are wonderful for their length flexibility and pressure. Down the line, consider panel clamps, band clamps, corner clamps and parallel clamps.

Get a speed square and a framing square. For the table saw, consider a digital relative angle finder like this. Get a tape measure and research how to use it effectively (eg why is the tab on the end loose). Learn how to mark wood accurately with a pencil, and then learn how to do it with a knife.

Get a set of inexpensive chisels and a mallet. Get a cheap block plane. Get a combination square. Get a shop vac and make sure your tools can connect to it.

Safety is of course top priority. Get good quality eye protection, respirator (even when using dust collection) and hearing protection (routers and planers are loud). Wear them every time.

For around the shop, make sure you put everything on casters because that perfect shop design you make on paper won't work in practice. Add more outlets and lighting. Build a good flat level workbench.

Just a few thoughts from someone who's been doing it for fun for over a decade. Not necessarily the right way for everyone, but those are what I wish someone had told me when I first started.

You're right that automation, when done right, is generally more reliable and desirable due to precise repeatability. But the issue here is that the current ABL sensors/systems, from an engineering perspective, are not done right.

A properly engineered auto bed leveling system would actually turn the screws and physically level the bed. But the existing ABL sensors don't do that. They take readings and compute in firmware the orientation of the bed, and cause the Z axis to constantly adjust during the length of the print to compensate. This method opens the door to other issues that are unique to an ABL-enabled system:

• The sensors themselves can be thrown off by something as simple as a change in humidity levels, and their accuracy is hindered by a glass bed if your printer uses one or you wanted to try one.
  
• The microsteps required of the Z axis stepper(s) to perform the required very fine movements are not as stable as full steps, which could introduce noise in your Z layers.
  
• Even when they work, with a bed that is actually unlevel your models will be provably skewed. The sensor doesn't magically build up a couple of uneven first layers to build up a truly level base for the model to print on top of for the rest of the model's height. It just runs the same extruding G code as computed by your slicer, with skewed Z values to match the skew of the unlevel build plate. The more off-level your build plate is in reality, the more skew your completely printed model will have on all layers. To mitigate this effect you still need to manually get the bed into a generally level state before starting. There's no getting away from it.
  
  I don't think I have any "superstar talent", as you put it. I just use a feeler gauge to set a known distance from the nozzle to the bed in one corner, and zero out a digital dial gauge that I have mounted to my extruder carriage during leveling. Then I just move the extruder head around each corner of the build plate, adjusting the bed screws until the dial gauge reads within +/- 0.01mm (the tolerance of the gauge itself) of zero on each corner. It is a perfectly repeatable process, and takes no more than 2-3 minutes to get a perfectly level bed. (Edit: This is my method using those tools because I'm a perfectionist, but good results can also be had with the tried-and-true and dirt-cheap "paper between nozzle and bed" method). On a properly rigid system with good compression on the bed leveling springs, I only have to level once a month at most...and that's usually when I've changed something in the system that invalidates my previous leveling anyways.
  
  All this to say...I just believe your initial post was overly hyperbolic. It sounds like you had a bad experience, and if ABL worked to solve that problem for you, great! But to use your singular experience as a reason to emphatically suggest at length that someone new to the hobby should not even consider any printer that comes without ABL, especially when there are countless more people who have entered the hobby just fine without ABL? That's a bit much.

Its amazingly easy with things like https://www.tinkercad.com/

​

I had also never done any 3D designing before I got my 3D printer and have made many parts like this pretty easily.

I found that purchasing a cheap digital caliper is a great investment too, I had to prototype far fewer prints when I could accurately measure to the .1mm, 3D printers are amazingly accurate. Measuring things like the shaft of the part you want to create that needs to slide into the stick then making a perfectly size hex hole to accommodate is the hardest part.

For calipers I'm not sure about going with gun brand name since the price tends to go up just because gunz. This thing is probably just as good as your Frankford, but much less money. It's $17 and pretty much the same thing as the Hornady that goes for $27. Just look for general calipers that have the best reviews and you're bound to get a better deal than that one. Definitely look to see if they maintain zero for a long time, since you don't want it to be off several thousandths by the time you've measured your COL on your 50th bullet of 100.

Here's my process:

I measured the leftover openings, their width, length and depth. Then I measured the distances between the openings. Once I had my dimensions, I recreated the openings in Solidworks as a sketch and then proceeded to work on the handle. First I created the general large shape of the handle and made sure it overlayed the openings. After applying some fillets and cuts to get the outside shape to what I want, I used the Shell command to remove any excess material on the inside of the handle to create a shell of my wanted thickness. Once I had the shape of the handle done, I added the tabs to go on the inside of the door. I printed a small section of the handle with 2 tabs to make sure the fit was good, made a few small adjustments and then printed the whole handle standing up in PETG. It's rock solid.

Fusion 360 should work just as well as Solidworks. My tool for measuring are $16 Neiko micrometers from amazon, I absolutely love them and use them all the time for work and around the house.

These are the ones I bought before:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NEA0P8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No prob.

For me, I got the setting circle preinstalled on my AD10 (A great advantage with Apertura is their amazing customer service. I posted a first light report with my AD10 on an astronomy forum I frequent and the guy who runs Apertura responded because he already has an account on the site but I digress...). You can install your own setting circle though.

As far as an angle finder, the Wixey angle finder seems to be the standard digital finder for this sort of thing. I just went to Lowe's and picked up an $8 analogue angle finder with a magnetic base. With a little help it stays in place on my OTA and using the setting circle + high performance angle finder I can just go straight to anything.

P.S. Apps are your friend. SkEye is probably my most heavily used astronomy tool, period. Sundroid is very convenient. Both are well worth the money.

So I've had my Anet A8 for about 3 weeks now. I have done everything you are seeing. First off let me say get yourself something like this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072L2YJLH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Auto Bed leveling is amazing for being able to adjust and get that good adhesion. Also I was ripping my hair out trying to figure this out, when I took my nozzle off, and it was supposed to be a 0.4mm nozzle, but my 0.6mm drill bit went had gap on both sides, so the hole was 0.7mm which is bad when you are expecting a smaller hole. I would suggest moving changing nozzles/block. That said, also make sure that your thermistor is in the heatblock. There is the little hole by the heater that goes into the heating block. If not, you will be over heating for the filament.

Looking at what has been pused out, your nozzel is too far off the bed. If you don't have a dial calipers I would suggest getting one. something like this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NEA0P8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

People say use a sheet of paper, but depending on the paper weight, you will have different thickness. Try to find a sheet that is either .1 or .2mm thick. This will allow you to set with the sheet of paper easier. I have .1mm thick paper that drags pretty hard, and that gives me a nice squish. If you think about it, you should be pushing a .4mm and with a .2mm layer, it should be half flat, half round. If the extruded is all round, then you are close enough to squish it. The most important part to the print is making sure the nozzle is at the size it is supposed to be.

/u/cr0aker gave a good breakdown. torch angle and stickout are the most important factors. I use a digital angle inclinometer http://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-Digital-Angle-Gauge/dp/B001PTGBRQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1409099065&sr=1-1&keywords=angle+gauge+digital like that.

I will note that I generally eyeball stick out, however we used to do things like weld a stand off to a pair of welding pliers that way you can set the stand off against the torch tip and then cut the wire to a set length. Then when I'm programming I make sure the tip of the wire is just barely touching the surface.

As far as parameters. When I was in school and at a few employers I used to keep detailed notes on parameters and what worked, also I was responsible for WPQR's and WPS. Nowadays I've made a form that has important setup information (fxiture location, parameters, notes, descriptions of setup, and absolute location of the part at a corner). Miller and lincoln both have free apps https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.millerwelds.weldsettings&hl=en that give good starting parameters for a given process. At my current job everything is stainless in set thickness so I start at 60 Cm/min (about 20 IPM) and adjust parameters according to position and material thickness.

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-Advanced-Absolute-Digital-Caliper/dp/B00WMKUUAQ


This is what you want. Couple bucks over asking but theres only really two companies worth looking at when it comes to quality measuring tools. Starrett and Mitutoyo. Starrett in my experience is generally a little more expensive.

Both brands are a "buy for life" variety when taken care of.

Every comment below is recommending there calipers so feel free to save yourself a headache. Merry Christmas.

Wrap the back edge of the knife with tape and make sure your clamp is parallel.

​

Use an angle cube to make sure you have a consistent angle through out the blade edge or you can use an app on a smart phone to zero and measure it. You can also use paper binder clips to make a moveable angle guide for more accurate angles throughout the knife's length. Here is my set up

​

Use a marker on the blade edge to see your progress and where you are cutting or to get an idea of where your knife's blade angle sits. If you cuts are far from the edge, your angle is too small and you will have to remove more material if you want to get to the very edge. When you start cutting the edge it will start to form a burr that is very noticeable, then you can move on to finer grits. Just make sure that you do equal strokes on both sides to have an even bevel.

​

And of course make sure you use honing oil on your stones to prevent plugging.

​

If have an accurate common angle (20/25degrees) you can use a Lansky Turnbox to maintain the edge with a ceramic rod and quickly do some small repairs with the diamond rod. and it is easily portable.

​

Hope this helps

He needs, yes. The Lee Challenger kit is around $99 on Amazon, and that has everything he'll need to get started except for: Bullets, Primers, Powder and Brass and DIES for 7.62x54r (another $30-$40)

Now, he'll want a digital scale, a case trimmer, and a tumbler to get his brass clean and pretty. That all can be added on, and most likely, be purchased in addition to the press kit for about $200.

Here's a list of things he'll want:

Lee Challenger Reloading Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ISVWC6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady Reloading Manual (So he doesn’t blow himself up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MAUZ71V/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Calipers (So he doesn’t blow his gun up)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

7.62x54r Reloading Dies
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-7-62X54R-Pacesetter-Dies/dp/B00162UGUK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511562718&sr=8-1&keywords=7.62x54r+dies

Frankford Arsenal Quick-n-EZ Case Tumbler (To make clean-shiny brass)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MYGLJC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case Tumbling Media
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OQRGF2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RCBS Universal Case Loading Block
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013RA5DQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hornady One-Shot Case Lube https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001NA29U/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Guardians of the Galaxy Soundtrack (Because listening to good music scientifically makes better bullets)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LICGSFU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8

Definitely get yourself a set of calipers. Even low-cost units can do you quite a bit of good as long as you don't expect too much out of them. Something like these can get you where you need to go.

With bipods, there's definitely some technique to be learned with them. You should remember to load the bipod while shooting. This article should help you understand. Also, cruise around on that site as it has an absolute wealth of information on it.

It sounds as wind didn't have much of an effect, so that's good. Keep it in mind, though, to shoot in a similar condition. If the wind is blowing when you start shooting, try not to shoot during a lull in the wind, and vice-versa.

Regarding your sizing die, try to adjust it where you have a good amount of contact. You should feel it hit the shellholder when you're working through the upstroke. It's hard to explain, kinda like when you know when a bolt is snug enough via the good old German spec - gudentite. ;)

Alright... ignoring the fact that your asking how to install gears implies heavily that you don't know the first step... OR the first thing. Here's the basic run down. I'm not going to go into detail on torque specs, or specific procedure... i'd be here all night on a how-to that most people don't give two shits about. I'm also doing this ONLY for the 8.25. DANA 44's are too rare in stock, and DANA 35's don't deserve to be rebuilt.

Tools needed:

1. Bearing race set tool: http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-bearing-race-and-seal-driver-set-95853.html
   
2. Clamshell Bearing puller: http://www.amazon.com/G2-Axle-Gear-80-BRGPLLR-Clamshell/dp/B004PHV7DI
   
3. Micrometer: http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Caliper-Electronic-Micrometer/dp/B006Y1OWKS
   
4. Backlash Indicator: http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL96414-0-001-Increment-Indicator/dp/B006K8WANQ
   
5. Torque Wrench: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24335-2-Inch-Torque-10-150-Foot/dp/B00C5ZL0RU
   
6. 12 ton shop press: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html
   
7. Cold Chisel: http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6738-Chisel-Punch-12-Piece/dp/B000NPR3IO
   
8. Magnet on a stick
   
9. Needle nose pliers, or whatever pliers will fit
   
10. 3-5lb Maul
    
    Parts needed:
    
11. The gears. duh
    
12. Master rebuild kit with TIMKEN bearings.
    
13. Gear oil.
    
14. Marking compound, if the rebuild kit doesn't come with it... If it doesn't, you bought a cheap kit. shame. SHAME.^SHAME.^SHAME.
    
    On a 8.25...
    
15. Pull diff cover.
    
16. Pull pinion yoke nut.
    
17. Remove center pin bolt, and pull center pin from carrier.
    
18. Push Axle shafts in to the center housing.
    
19. Look for the little C clip inside the carrier. Use you stick magnet to pull them out. Repeat for the other axle.
    
20. Pull axle shafts out of both sides.
    
21. Use your cold chisel to put a mark on the left bearing cap ridge. make one mark. make one mark on the left side housing as well. Make two marks on the right side bearing cap. Make two marks on the right side housing as well. PAY ATTENTION WHEN REASSEMBLING. Bearing caps are side specific, and switching them can result in early bearing failure. Set bearing caps and bearing cap bolts in a clean area.
    
22. Pull out main carrier.
    
23. Put carrier in a vise, and with your torque wrench, remove the bolts holding the ring gear in place. tap the ring gear evenly around the sides to remove.
    
24. Use the Clamshell bearing puller to pull the bearings off the carrier.
    
25. Use the shop press to install the new bearings on the carrier.
    
26. Put the new ring gear on the carrier. Push it on lightly with your hands, install 2-4 bolts to hold it in place. Count the turns as the bolts catch. install the rest of the bolts with the same amount of turns. Tighten all bolts in a star pattern in even increments to 40 ft/lbs. then to 60 ft/lbs. then finally 80 ft/lbs.
    
27. Pull the pinion yoke if you haven't already. pull the pinion. if it doesn't come out, hit it with a hammer. use some wood if you plan on saving the gear set for whatever reason.
    
28. Use cold punch to remove bearing races from the rear of the housing. don't fuck up the housing mating surface, or it'll leak no matter how many times you replace the pinion seal.
    
29. Install the new bearing races with the bearing race set tool and your maul.
    
30. Install the bearing on the pinion.
    
31. Measure the old shims with your micrometer. Install the same thickness shims in the pinion to start.
    
32. Place the pinion in the housing. New bearing should be in place on the pinion and in the housing at this point. IF not, you need to learn to read.
    
33. Measure the thickness of the carrier bearings. Place new bearings of the same thickness to start.
    
34. Place carrier, bearing outer races and shims in all at once.
    
35. Put old crush sleeve and old bearing on the new pinion. A die grinder to grind out some of the inner old bearing race makes a good setup bearing. tighten the pinion nut.
    
36. Place marking compound on 5 ring gear teeth, both sides.
    
37. Spin the carrier to determine pattern. consult pattern guide included with your kit. you kit didn't come with a guide? shoulda bought Yukon gears.
    
38. If you pattern isn't conforming to the guide, add or remove shims from the pinion or carrier.
    
39. Once you think you have a good pattern, setup the dial indicator and measure backlash. Ideal is .8-.12 thousandths. if you're in the .12 or above, or .8 or below, add or remove shims to move the pinion in or out, or the carrier left or right. this can require some time dedication.
    
40. Once your happy with your gears, pull the carrier back out. Install new inner seals if you have them.
    
41. Remove the old crush sleeve and place a new one. Torque to the recommended spec.
    
42. Measure drag on the pinion with the torque wrench. should be ~8-10ft/lbs if i recall.
    
43. Place carrier back in the housing.
    
44. Replace carrier bearing caps and torque.
    
45. Re-torque pinion nut.
    
46. Replace axle shafts.
    
47. Replace c-clips.
    
48. Replace center pin and bolt.
    
49. Replace cover. seal well. sitting overnight is ideal.
    
50. Fill with 80w-90 gear oil.
    
    Go for a drive. If everything was done right, you should now have more power, and no rear end noise. if you do... you need to take the rear apart again, and reset the gears to clear the noise.
    
    I'm sure i forgot something, like thrust washers. Don't crucify me for it. If you want a REAL guide, you need to do more research.

Okay so the first time you used Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish. That means you compounding, an aggressive cut. No matter how "gentle" you were, this is an aggressive paint correction. Depending on the paint, you could have taken little or a lot off(I was shocked to see how much the Cadillac STS I did this week was losing in paint depth after just a polish.). This is why I encourage you to invest in a depth gauge if you plan to do another round of paint correction. I'll be honest, you really shouldn't need to correct this quickly after the first round. You mention that there are swirl marks from previous owners still, so either your paint is hard or you didn't do much with your last round("gentle" I guess, but really with a machine nothing would be gentle IMO). Ultimately I am just telling you this because a gauge is like $125-$150 on Amazon and a repaint is more expensive than this, and if you plan on doing anymore paint correction it is a worthwhile purchase. This is just a cautionary thing, heed it or not.

​

A polish is typically going to be your final step unless you're working on some super finicky paint. In that case you may need a "jeweling" type polish that is super low cut, but this isn't exactly normal. My black Honda paint which is soft can be finished with m205 and a Yellow Rupes pad(m205 is typically a little more cut than polishes and the yellow pad is a standard polishing pad). Really shouldn't need to switch pads either unless again, finicky paint.

https://smile.amazon.com/CM8801FN-Coating-Thickness-0-1250um-0-50mil/dp/B00DKUUUP2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1541731263&sr=8-8&keywords=paint+depth+gauge This is solid. $150<Repainting


You can get away without the gauge, but you're running a risk. Do what you will with that. Typically you should only really need one compounding correction then light polishing after that to maintain assuming you use safe washing methods.

Yea. Let's assume I've squared my machine and trust that the blade and the fence are parallel. I just want to find a way to accurately get the width of the cut. I got this for my planer and it's brilliant. I was hoping for something like this, or a technique that's used for nice, accurate cuts other than try, try again, and hope you don't overdo it.

Unfortunately I don't think that there's another solution that would produce an acceptable result. Personally I'd measure the thickness of the door and shop for a new lock to suit.
Here we go, from Amazon:

Cam Lock

Available sizes For Material Thickness:
5/8" cylinders fit up to 3/8" material
7/8" cylinders fit up to 5/8" material
1-1/8" cylinders fit up to 7/8" material
1-3/8" cylinders fit up to 1-1/8" material

Also I'd suggest a set of These which make measuring things like this really easy and they are cheap!

They're challenging but not impossible. If you've done the brick pattern one and you are satisfied with it, I'd say that you could do the Q-Bert one. I think the two hardest things for me were accurate planning for material (I had another reply here that goes into more detail) and actually getting the confidence to start; once you're doing the work, you can constantly refer back to his videos and basically see step-by-step how to do the things, and the steps make a lot of sense.

The one piece of equipment I would say is a requirement for this is a magnetic angle measure for your table saw (I have this one and it works well). And an accurate and sturdy rip fence that doesn't wobble. Two. The two pieces of equipment I would say are requirements. I mean, I personally wouldn't attempt this without my benchtop planer, but it's totally possible to use hand planes and/or sanders.

I've used some Fowler calipers at work and... I will never purchase a pair for myself. They're almost always inaccurate, I have to constantly zero them, even after calibration.. just.. ugh.

It's true that Mitutoyo tools are expensive, but part of that price is longevity. I've had the same Mitutoyo Mic for 2 years now and it works just as well as the day I got it. I've had other brands that only worked well for 4-6 months of regular use, and it just isn't worth the hassle.

Honestly, though, with a .002 tolerance (Which compared to my tolerances at work, that's massive), you could get away with an eyegaging or something similar. I used These for about 8 months when I was starting out and they were adequate.

I agree with most of what has been suggested here. A microjig Gripper, a better saw blade, the one that comes with the saw is crap. A dado set. He can make push sticks, I like the ones I made better than the store bought. You could also get him a gift card to a hardwood store or HD/Lowes so he can buy lumber or anything else he needs.

• Micro Jig Gripper
  
• Dado Stack
  
• incra v27
  
• Digital level/Angle finder for making sure your blade is at 90 or 45 degrees
  
  

These digital calipers have been great for me. They are extremely accurate and precise, and the ability to switch between mm, decimal inches, and fraction inches is great if you live in the one developed country not yet on the metric system for some reason. It also includes two batteries, which is nice.

It's a great piece of equipment as-is, but if you ever want a digital depth gauge, check this one out: https://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR510-Digital-Readout-Fractions/dp/B001PTGBSK. I have one on order for my Dewalt 735 planer. The built-in gauge works fine, but I figured this was a little easier to read (quickly, and more accurate than a ruler-type reading), and it's not overly expensive. Enjoy your new toy, it will provide you with some great results.

Most of that stuff really isn't that scary to mess with, you just have to do stuff in a specific order and usually loosen up the strings before making any adjustments. Its really more patience than anything.

as for the input jack, it's probably gotten twisted in the socket where it's pressing against the wall/wood and that makes it hard to click the plug in. Just take the whole plate off, loosen up the nut (if it's not loose already) and turn the jack until you can put it back in the hole without it touching the sides. tighten the nut down holding the jack in that spot, then screw the plate back on. That should take care of the plug problem

iif wires have come loose from it, it's super simple to solder them back on. it's only 2 wires, so you can only screw it up once (theoretically).

7-9th fret buzz could be a bunch of different things. once you gt the strings off, use a straight edge and a fret-rocker to see if your frets are all even and the neck relief is correct, and fix those following a tutorial. then put the NEW strings on and go at bridge adjustments. Sometimes just a new set of strings will stop a lot of the buzzing too. figure out how to adjust the bridge for height, radius, and intonation, and after that your guitar should play AMAZING.

And remember to get the same gauge strings, that will make any adjustments a very minor job. if you go up or down in string size, the adjustments need to be a little more drastic so you can save trouble that way. If you don't know the gauge of your strings, find somebody that has one of these, a caliper and you can measure the first + last strings with it to figure out what gauge they are.

I have this Wixey set (do you call them a set?) and have been perfectly happy with them (it?); I bought this model/brand because I was happy with their angle gauge, and the price was right.

Edit: misspelled brand name.

DW735. Nice! I have the same model. Definitely look at swapping, or at least rotating the blades. I bought this Wixey Digital Gauge and love it. No more guessing at placement of the measuring arrow. Also, it's as loud and as powerful as a jet engine. Make sure you have dust collection and ear protection.

> would be possible to put a set of bullhorns on my bike

Almost certainly yes. You might need a new stem.

> and still be able to use my current shifters/brakes.

Maybe. Measure the diameter of your existing bars where the shifters are mounted. The best tool to do this is a pair of measuring calipers, something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414190268&sr=8-1&keywords=measuring+calipers

Handlebars come in only a few standard diameters, but really the best way to answer your question is to measure it empirically.

If I were in your position, I would definitely shoot for a big ticket item such as the sawstop PCS (36" T-glide) with 1.75hp motor. That will eat up your entire budget (plus $219 more). I cannot imagine a hobbyist woodworker who would not be happy with it.

OR you can do lots of little stuff: (take out the things he may already have)
Sharpening: this this this this and this

Chisels: here

Japanese saw: this and this

Caliper: here

Exceptional quality hand plane set every woodworker would love to have if they don't have it already: here. Conversely, you can get the Lie Nielsen 60-1/2 block plane and get the #4 and #5 from Lee Valley (I prefer their version).


If he doesn't have a planer, this is a great one: here


As for festool products, I would highly recommend the Rotex 150 with Dust collector combination

I'm sure i'm missing a couple of stuff here and there but I hope the list helps you get started.

Looking for some paint thickness gauge / meter recommendations on the cheap. For personal use. Not interested in spending thousands on a professional gauge.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D337RPW/?coliid=I1B4EN3ZFPAIRQ&colid=3GJZC1EZZLFLA&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Seems too good to be true, but is it worth trying out?

Otherwise, I might end up with this one, seems like it has good reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKUUUP2/?coliid=I39I2VK46CLC8P&colid=3GJZC1EZZLFLA&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Got your message, but wanted to put my reply here, in case it could benefit anyone else.

The fact that the cracks were already visible on the initial walk through is probably a good sign. Makes it likely they may just be shrinkage cracks from when the concrete first set.

If you don't see any obvious distress in any other part of the building around it, but still want a more solid answer, read on, and hopefully I can help. If someone called me for cracks like this, the second question I'd be trying to answer (after that first "distress in any other part of the building" question) would be, "Is the crack moving." The best tool for that is something you can buy and use just fine yourself, a crack monitoring gauge. They are stupid expensive for what they are (plastic with some markings and epoxy), but cheaper than getting another structural engineer out to even look at what might just be shrinkage cracks.

I'd apply monitors across whichever cracks looked largest. If, for example, this is one long crack that cuts across a corner of your slab, I'd think about putting one near each end, at least. Since you're looking at slab cracks, I'd mostly just be looking for spots on the floor near the walls where I might be able to glue them down and not trip over them and damage them. Leave on, get good initial readings, and watch them for at least a year (you want a full set of seasons minimum).

A few possible outcomes;

• No movement at all. Shrinkage cracks or some initial settlement that has finished. Either way, yay!
  
• Cracks getting continuously wider. Could be a sign of an ongoing settlement problem.
  
• Cracks that open and close depending on season. This is common on expansive soil (often clays), where the soil moisture can vary seasonally but does so more at the edges of the slab than at the relatively protected middle. Causes the slab to basically bend back and forth over time.
  
  Either of the second or third might be a problem or might not, depending on how much it's moving. If you never see any sort of distress elsewhere in the building around it, either might be no big deal - you could just be getting extended minor settlement or a bit of seasonal swell that won't do any harm. Houses move some. On the other hand, if you have a year worth of info from these crack gauges and do end up calling a structural engineer because you're seeing issues beyond just the slab, they'll be able to do a lot more to help you sooner because you're going to end up bringing them good background info that we don't usually get to start with.
  
  Either way, that's my suggestion for now, at least. Nothing in the photos jumped out at me as immediately scary, so at most I'd consider throwing gauges on it and watching.

I have a set of mitutoyo for my work, but for knock around and loaners I got these from amazon and I’ve been pretty happy with them.

https://www.amazon.com/VINCA-DCLA-0605-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B017KUC6XQ

Best of the budget category is probably the iGaging calipers. Yes, it's absolutely worth the price difference over the $10 versions. If you weren't looking for the "best" recommendation and just looking for "cheap", then I would recommend the $10 ones. They're fine after a few minutes of cleaning them up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AQEZ2W/

http://www.cabelas.com/product/RCBS-reg-Rock-Chucker-Supreme-Master-Reloading-Kit/1324071.uts ($50 mail-in rebate on this)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N8JZL4?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/RCBS-Small-Base-Die-223/dp/B000N8LIOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495571705&sr=1-1&keywords=rcbs+223+dies

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495571775&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+calipers

https://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Reloading-Length-Headspace-Gauge/dp/B001RI7A66/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572110&sr=1-1&keywords=lyman+headspace+gauge

= $435, leaving $65 for your first round of components.

When your $50 rebate comes, I'd get this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Comparator-Inserts/dp/B000PD5VLA/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572018&sr=1-1&keywords=hornady+bullet+comparator

https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-836017-Quick-n-EZ-Impact-Bullet/dp/B001B7ZB4Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1495572088&sr=1-2&keywords=bullet+puller

• A load manual from your bullet manufacturer of choice. Since money is an issue, I'd start with Hornady and/or Sierra bullets which are on the affordable side of the spectrum and are good quality. Also, Hodgdon has a lot of free data for their powders (including IMR) on their website.
  
  This is basically my exact setup and I get great results from it.

I'd do a different spool setup. I use the TUSH The only needed hardware for that one is 4 skate bearings. If you need bearings I'll send you 4 for $5 or 8 for $6. Shipping included to US.

The other tools I recommend:

• Calipers - There are many in this price range. These work fine.
  
• Flush cutters - These are quality and what I use.
  
• Screw Kit - Not sure what you intend to print but a kit like this has you ready for a variety of projects.
  
• Orange PLA - Damn close to the Prusa ABS color.
  
• Flex Scraper - I use a wide flexible one because it helps avoid gouging the bed.
  
• Precision Pliers - I use a pair like this with the long skinny reach.

A mitersaw is probably going to be less accurate/repeatable than a table saw. One thing you can do is get a angle gauge for your table saw so you can actually dial in the 45 degree angle, chances are the indicator on your saw is off and causing the issue not the fact that you're using a table saw. The next thing I'd suggest is a sled for your table saw, which is pretty easy to make... if you're doing 45s for things like frames a sled like this would be useful as well.

To address your first question, install some monitoring gauges:

https://www.amazon.com/CRACKMON-4020A-Concrete-Adhesive-Included/dp/B0049MAVYU

They are very accurate, and will let you know what is moving. Just be aware that there WILL be some movement, because cementious foundations cannot flex, only crack, when the earth around them moves.

The best thing you can do for your foundation is to start at the roof. Do you have gutters and downspouts? If so, are they free and clear? Where do they discharge? How far away from the foundation is the water sent? How is the soil around your home sloped? Can water pool against the foundation at any location? Is water directed away from your home?

It is funny, but a solid foundation starts at the top of the house.

pair of calipers. pretty cheap on amazon and should be a standard tool for 3d printing.

here is a pair for $13 shipped
https://www.amazon.com/SE-784EC-Digital-Caliper-Metric/dp/B003MA08VQ

personally I would go with something better.

These are well reviews and liked and come with a case

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/

$40

I like CarPro Eraser for expecting cars. I would check into that.

If you want to figure out how much clear coat you have to play with, buy a paint thickness gauge. I'm saving up for this one.

Take a look at this post to see how it can save your butt!
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/76453-why-paint-thickness-readings-important.html

If you know the screw size of the screws you plan to use, you can use a screw size chart (like this: http://www.accuratescrew.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/09/Table1.jpg)

Don't forget to convert the inches to millimeters ;)

​

I just used my digital calipers to measure the size of the screws I was going to use and then added a bit of clearance. If you're going to make functional prints, you'll probably at least want some form of caliper measuring device. ... it doesn't have to be super expensive and insanely accurate.. this would do just fine IMO: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Caliper-Adoric-Calipers-Measuring/dp/B07DFFYCXS/ref=sr_1_18?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1543583874&sr=1-18&keywords=caliper

​

Another option which is another "functional print" is to design a plate with ascending hole sizes so you can test fit screws whenever you are trying to decide what size hole to make (kinda nice to have a physical representation of the holes your printer makes) Don't forget to mark it though :)

​

My reloading setup was based on budget. I spent about $147 total for my Lee Single Stage Press + extras. The only complaint I have is I wish the press was a little more accurate for speedier results.

Id like if anyone commented on high speed pressing components with high accuracy results. It would be nice to have but really just curious whats out there and what works.

Edit: incase you were curious ive listed my parts below

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BDOHNA/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SF4X5I/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-Deluxe-3-Die-Rifle/dp/B00162TEOE

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOQIOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NOSGOU/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014136PA/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00162UGQE/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'd recommend you just pick up a set of cheapo digital calipers off Amazon like these. Worth noting, though, that if you plan to use it only to measure lug width you could save yourself some money and pick up one of these, since the precision of a digital set isn't necessary.

The ones from Lowes may be too small at only 3inches. It'd be best to get something closer to your print bed size

I bought these 6 inch calipers from amazon and they have been great https://www.amazon.com/VINCA-DCLA-0605-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B017KUC6XQ

I had the same issues, someone gave me the advice of stop using the paper/card/whatever and go buy a set of feeler gauges like this one and a very inexpensive dial indicator. Use the 0.10mm feeler gauge to level it, I tend to go a little low on my leveling as in you can tell the nozzle is grabbing but not enough that you can't move the feeler with your fingers. Depending on what indicator you use (search Thingiverse for CR-10 dial indicator for a good list) print out a holder that fits your model. Once you have that level with the feeler again but only do one corner, set your Z to 10 and set the indicator to zero, go to all four corners and level them to the zero corner you set. Always make sure after you are done to go back to the "zero corner" and reset it, moving the other three corners may throw off the original.

This has helped me with so much frustration in the past. I had maybe one good print until I found this, now I have almost no failed.

tl;tr watch this, he does a better explanation

I still sort and reuse Medeco pins because they're so damned expensive. Get a digital or dial micrometer. Much faster than dropping them into a plug with depth keys. You should have a micrometer anyway. It's pretty much the number one best way to diagnose fiddly little problems with depth and spacing. It's invaluable for adjusting your key machines. I can get my Borkey duplicator down to sub .001 accuracy with one.

In the old days, a decent dial micrometer was expensive. Now, those digital ones are dirt cheap and perfectly serviceable. I bought the one I linked to above as a backup to my fancy Mitutoyo dial unit, and at $17 and change, I actually use it as my main one now because it was so cheap I'm not afraid of damaging it.

Get a decent digital caliper and get good at measuring, model it yourself.

Here is the fun part though - printers shrink some dimensions and expand others based on temperature, extrusion, brand of filament and a hundred other variables.

I make parts that hold spring loaded Pogo pins than are about 1.6mm to 2mm in diameter.

For every design I print a test piece with the holes in various orientations to the build plate. I make each hole the correct size then some a little larger and some a little smaller. I create a profile for each part I print and save that.

When I get the test piece done, I check each hole for fit. Now I know that for part number XYZ123 on Brand-X PLA I need to make the vertical holes .05mm larger and horizontal holes .1 smaller.

It's a pain but it helps take some of the mystery out of sizing.

This combined with the Wixey Digital inclinometer (http://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-Digital-Angle-Gauge/dp/B001PTGBRQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1349016547&sr=8-1&keywords=wixey) And you can find anything quickly when you get the altitude and azimuth measurements from SkySafari or Stellarium.

I cut my base and installed a paper degree circle, but I like this idea better because it's easier to level the base which is crucial for getting consistent results. I'll be in for one of these for sure.

I have had VERY good results with the iGaging Absolute Origin found on Amazon Here: https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1498694071&sr=8-5&keywords=digital+calipers

There are a number of reloaders (much deeper into reloading than I) using this piece of hardware with very good results.

Here is the video that sold me on buying it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yqZx_FNbSs

Most cheap calipers are fine for measuring prints for accuracy. If you want to get something a little better than the cheapest but not spend too much, I'd recommend these. They're probably not more accurate than other digital calipers in the $20-$25 range, but the absolute origin feature makes them easier to use since you don't have to zero-out each time you use them.

Feeler gauges also work nicely.

Pick up one, like here, get the scope set in the rings, find the right point in the gauges where any thicker and it won't freely slide between the scope and the mount, then tighten. After you have your rings torqued down, you should need to remove the gauges using some force, but your scope will be mounted perfectly level with your mount.

A cheap digital caliper is great if you're going to be making parts that need to fit onto something else.
https://www.amazon.com/VINCA-DCLA-0605-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B017KUC6XQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1495820845&sr=1-4&keywords=iGaging+EZCAL

Long nose pliers for removing support material, and for cutting filament before you load it.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-84-101-Basic-Cutting-Plier/dp/B000B8FRQ8/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1495821639&sr=1-4&keywords=nose+cutting+pliers

Bowl gouge, not gauge :)

Read this PDF and watch the video that's linked for more information as to why spindle gouges are not to be used for bowls or other cross-grain turning.

The accessory tool set you linked is mostly designed for metalworking by the look of it. You would make modest use of the two spring calipers and the scribe compass in the bottom left of the photo, but none of the other stuff would be useful to a woodturner doing bowls. To be honest, you can buy the same three tools for under $20, so I'd buy the calipers and then maybe a [cheap digital caliper}(https://www.amazon.com/Neiko®-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/) for when accuracy matters.

I have uploaded my work papers here that should help, you can also check my post history for other work in progress shots.

Basic rundown:

• Get a set of digital calipers like this they are under $20, and are vital in making measurements off of the figure. Read the instructions on how to use them, they are a great tool.
  
• Figure how high you want the end result to be. I wanted Alphonse to be to scale. I found animator notes that had him listed as 7' - 4" or 88" tall.
  
• I made all of my measurements in millimeters (mm) because I found it easier, you can do inches but pick one now and stick to it for the duration of the project.
  
• Take the height you want and divide it by the height of the statue. You do not need to convert it the same units. I can explain why if needed.
  
• My Alphonse figure was 228.1 mm tall, so that gave me 88/228.1 = .3858.
  
• So any measurement I made on the figure I multiplied by .3858 and that gave me the dimension needed in inches for the costume.
  
  Always more than willing to answer any questions, so let me know if something does not make sense.

30mm dia. base Source 510 from Stealthvape turned down to 25mm. Threads weren't damaged from being chucked in a 3-jaw. Used a carbide cutter and took light cuts, about 0.05mm per pass. Also wet sanded the top base 600-2500 grit (I should have started with a lower grit, still some tooling marks)

http://www.stealthvape.co.uk/SOURCE-30MM-FLAT

/u/IsABot /u/vapescaped you guys want one let me know

A prior thread asking about 25mm 510s: https://www.reddit.com/r/OpenPV/comments/5gnnbf/25mm_510_connector/

If anyone needs some digital calipers, these are great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/ I was using some from Harbor Freight prior and was becoming frustrated with them. Started looking around and these were quite highly recommended and well reviewed. Well machined, few smooth action, maintains zero. Was considering dropping $200 on Mitutoyo calipers until luckily finding these

This won't give you an immediate answer, but a caliper would tell you and they are handy to have around.

Even a super cheap harbor freight one would do. Personally, I like my not as cheap as it could be, but far from costly set.

Oh and get a valve cap.

Get yourself a pair of these (if you don't already):

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=calipers&qid=1565281175&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Then you just measure and model. Look at the basic shape first and model the basic shape. Then add (and subtract) as necessary.

I find using OpenSCAD a little easier for duplicating a real world part because you can use variables and fine tune with variable values rather than having to redraw something. (in OpenSCAD you write code instead of click-to-draw).

3D scanning would also be an option if you have that setup (been meaning to print a 3d scanning rig...couple of good options on thingiverse)

Mitutoyo is absolutely the best, but just in case you want to pickup a few calipers that are very near the same quality at budget pricing, I can highly recommend: iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - IP54 Protection / Extreme Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_02MAyb2RWWRKM

I have purchased several of these for our engineering department and they are leaps and bounds better than other cheap units. The sliding action is smooth with no slop. The display updates very quickly. Accuracy and repeatability have been tested to be comparable to the Mitutoyos.

Thickness caliper and runout tool to determining of the rotor is within specification for thickness and warpage. Visually check for irregularities like cracks, hot spots and glazing. Just replace it to ensure their safety.

Examples for your reference.

Runout tool
Türlen Disc Brake Rotor and Ball Joint Runout Gauge Set Dial Indicator 1"/0.0005" Flexible Arm Clamp Locking Vise w/Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LML96RI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YlrFDbXC49Q24

Caliper gauge
Anytime Tools Disc Brake Rotor Caliper Digital Electronic Gauge Gage Micrometer 0-2.5"/0.0005" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Y1OWKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_anrFDb4TBV4CJ

This site helps with Nova thread adapters.

Some other instructions.

Also, you should look into some decimal inch calipers. Or dial Or digital. I guess if you are used to that scale it’s fine. But using 16ths and then going to 128ths just seems pretty difficult. (1 + 12/16 + 4/128 = 1.78125) If you can do that in your head I’m impressed.

It does seem that 1.75-6 is what those measurements come out to. But idk how you determine what thread type it is. It could be metric? I’d probably do everything I could to find a published thread size and type from the manufacturer.

What size morse taper is this?

Buy yourself a set of calipers (those are cheap, use better ones for real precision work) and take em with you when you go shopping. You'll be able to tell how thick things are from memory pretty quick that way.

And you're right; most dimensioned lumber is in 3/4" thicknesses. If you need to double that then buy 2 boards and glue em together. Easily done, just takes all teh clamps.

I started out using a plastic RCBS dial caliper, but the teeth in the dial gearing started skipping so I had to find a new one. I went with this one from Amazon. I was skeptical, given the low, low price, but it was reviewed pretty well and I've been using now for several months and find it's working great.

I'd also agree with Mitutoyo, they're top of the line in my opinion. I use them at work, and they're great. However for at home I just bought these. I will only be measuring ID or OD of hose, etc.

https://i.gyazo.com/4236146349e1e7c6e712be3963a7462f.png

https://www.amazon.com/VINCA-DCLA-0605-Electronic-Fractions-Conversion/dp/B017KUC6XQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1502910277&sr=1-4&keywords=digital+caliper

You actually just graduated a level in motorcycle maintenance. You can replace your own chains with a chain breaker/pin set kit and a digital micrometer.
High quality chains like D.I.D. are a good idea, and the instructions will be clear regarding the spread/flare measurement on the pin.
If you do this, lube the threads on the extractor with a little lithium.
You will also typically want to replace both sprockets with the chain.

That is pretty cool, I might end up doing this. The dials are nice and cheap on Amazon too.

~$25 can get you a pretty darn good digital caliper tho.

https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Electronic-Digital-Fractions-Stainless/dp/B001AQEZ2W/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_469_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=24JYAF83MNG8BTGTSMVR

I don't do super precise stuff with mine, but it's worked well for shimming electric motors inside of fan housings.

And it doesn't eat batteries while in storage. So ¯_(ツ)_/¯

I have one of these (https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-ABSOLUTE-Digital-Electronic-Caliper/dp/B00INL0BTS) as well as a Mitutoyo (along with the piece of crap in the gif).

The iGaging is absolutely amazing for the price and feels pretty much the same quality as the Mitutoyo.

But without a doubt if you have some cash to splash, get the Mitutoyo Digimatic.

Buying this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RD6D2ZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and buying this in order to properly calibrate e-steps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


These two things took my prints from adequate to pristine. Huge improvement.

The Cloudbait link works for me (I was able to get there from your post), so I'd just try it again, although the cached copy is basically the same.

Cost breakdown for just the tracking mount:

• Mechanical hardware (wood, aluminum, nylon, delrin rod, screws, threaded rod, etc.) was roughly $30
  
• Ball Head, $20
  
• Breadboard, $25
  
• Battery, $40
  
• Power leads, $5
  
• Microcontroller board, $20
  
• Motor, $15
  
• Angle block for calibration, $25
  
• Motor Driver Board, $20
  
• Misc bulk components (LEDs, headers, microswitch), $5
  
  So, a little over $200 for everything, although there is definitely room to save depending on what components you get and where you get them. Still is about half the cost and more flexible than a comparable commercial product like this, although mine doesn't look quite as elegant. :)
  
  The entire thing is also mounted on a $200 tripod head and a $200 tripod, but you could get away with something an order of magnitude less expensive--I already had the tripod equipment, so it wasn't an added expense for this build.

That is a really good project. I think you should try to find something that has already been done by a mod'ing expert or be ready to do a lot of research and CAD work.

If no mod example can be found you will have to go solo. I expect that the Intel NUC's could be made to fit if the bottom was cut to allow for its excess height. The feet need to be extended so that the laptop did not rock.

https://www.pcworld.com/article/3074962/computers/intel-nuc6i7kyk-review-this-skull-canyon-nuc-smashes-all-mini-pc-preconceptions.html

You can find all the tech details for the "Skull Canyon" NUC on Intel's website. The PDF of technical Product Specifications is where I would start.

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/nuc/nuc-assets/nuc-skull-canyon.html?wapkw=skull+canyon+nuc

.

I think you will need some digital calipers and CAD software before you can be sure.

Neiko 01408A Electronic Digital Caliper with Extra Large LCD Screen

Electronic calipers are super useful too. A bit more than $30 but I really like these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017KUC6XQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks for getting back to me. Yes, there can be a small or a huge difference between the blade and the flat part. Usually it's the difference between 1.7515 and 1.75 inches from blade to flat.

I highly recommend getting a decent set of digital calipers.

I use these at work:http://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419944639&sr=8-1&keywords=mitoyo+digital+caliper

for around $100 they hold up well, easy to read and about as accurate as calipers can get (reasonably)

Can you link a guide of this method to me? Seems practical. Also is this the Digital Inclinometer you were talking about? I already have a good compass with a view finder so i'm good on that part. And moreover, Will this kind of polar allignment allows me to be able to get good 45-60 tracking at around 400mm ? One more thing, if possible do you have any other methods that you think i should try? expensive/cheap. I really wanna nail this one.

Twice your price range but I have these.

There is a great comparison video of several different calipers in the reviews. Some of which I think are in your price range.

Digital calipers! There are other methods, and certainly better calipers than this, but these are way more than enough to get yourself started for cheap. I have two nice sets of calipers, but at one point I just bought four of these and keep one in my office at home, one at work, one in the garage, and one more just stashed in a drawer because I use them all the time: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Calipers&qid=1564629857&s=gateway&sr=8-3

For this print all I did was measure the diameter of the cable and the diameter of the knockout. That was enough to give me all the info I needed.

Get a pair of calipers, this will confirm all you measurements. Good luck!!
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Stainless/dp/B000GSLKIW?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000GSLKIW

To add to the others, get a nice set of calipers if you don't already have some. I prefer digital, and they are relatively inexpensive. I have this pair, and they work great for taking precise measurements. Spending a bunch of time modeling and then printing only for the parts not to fit is such a buzzkill.

Neiko 01407A Stainless Steel Electronic Digital Caliper with Extra Large LCD Screen | 0-6 Inches | Inch/Fractions/Millimeter Conversion https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nRh8Ab09Q96YR

Most definitely. I find new uses for it all the time and they were pretty cheap!

iGaging IP54 Electronic Digital Caliper 0-6" Display Inch/Metric/Fractions Stainless Steel Body https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AQEZ2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_saf8ybK2EF6Y9

Find the best looking Brown and Sharpe used dial caliper on ebay. I think I paid $35 and it is still mint and the movement is silky smooth. Your mileage will vary though.

But if I were you, I'd just save up and drop some coin on a Mitutoyo digital. A new standard 6" is $100 right now.

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468330954&sr=8-3&keywords=mitutoyo+digital+caliper

Here’s the least expensive one on Amazon.

But if you’re going to throw money at this issue, wouldn’t an automatic bed leveler be the best approach?

Agree with check the clutch cable first (simple things first always). If at the point where you're sure that it's not the cable, it's not hard to pull a clutch, drain the oil, pull the cover off, take the clutch springs off and then plates (pay attention to orientation). At this point do two things. Take a pair of mics and measure the thickness in three places on each clutch disc. Then make sure your steels are flat by putting them on a flat surface and try to slide a feeler gauge between the plate and surface.

I like the igaging stuff. iGaging ABSOLUTE ORIGIN 0-6" Digital Electronic Caliper - IP54 Protection / Extreme Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ZQERAbVQDZTS9

It’s won a lot of caliper shootouts on YouTube.

I use this model from iGaging. It's for home use so I didn't need to buy a Mitutoyo or anything but the 4.6 star reviews on amazon are well-deserved. I'm impressed with them.

I use an [Electronic Digital Caliper like this one] (https://smile.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491858601&sr=8-3&keywords=micrometer) and recommend you get one in your kit. Used several times in building the MK2S as well as calibrations later on.

This is the caliper that I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I wish I bought a 3mm hexdriver so that I did not have to use the hex key.

My biggest tip would be to pre-install or thread the screws in first when installing any screw to the frame. The threads need to be cleaned of the powder coat. This will make installing anything to the frame go much smoother.

Other than that use the online manual read the directions clearly and read the comments, they are very helpful.

i basically did the same thing in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Axu_Ix-nPTY

Measurement tools used: 0.001mm Resolution Dial Indicator& Indicator Mount

​

this measurement process should work with semi-floating rotors only. fully floating race rotors would have too much movement to measure properly i think.

I will also make sure to clean the caliper pistons frequently so the pistons retract correctly and prevent over heating rotors. I've actually never cleaned them in the past.

Torque wrench

Socket set

Hex sockets

1/2 inch Ratchet

1/4 inch Ratchet

Combo wrench set

Calipers

Chain tool

Pretty close to everything you'll ever need to work on a bike, besides specialty tools. Buy or borrow other stuff when the issue comes up! You can do it!!

Edit: Added calipers.

I suggest getting two things that helped a ton with my prusa:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQR7TU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1417042163&sr=1-1&keywords=caliper

Building from scratch is really great because you then have a mental framework for diagnosing when something goes wrong. Have fun.

For research check out people modifying printerbot probes to work with their machines. I'd suggest getting a cylindrical unit so that you can adjust to fine tune the height it detects with glass. There are plenty of resources out there to get started, and materials can be as cheap as a $5 probe and a printed effector with probe mount.


You can get it close with manual adjustment then fully dial it in with either firmware z-offset or just changing your z-height. Please realize with hotends like the e3d style you'll have to reset z height after removing/cleaning the nozzle because it's always a different amount that the nozzle screws into the heater block. A cheap set of feeler gauges is best for this.

I'm a cnc machinist and these impressed me a lot. I highly recommend them for anyone's shop

I started with a pair from harbor freight, but then decided I wanted something a little more substantial, so got these off of Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and moved the HF pair out to the garage. These iGaging ones do feel more substantial.

Many people have success with dial indicator. But I can't figure out a way to mount it that works well. Neoteck DTI Digital Dial Indicator 0.01/.0005'' Digital Probe Indicator Dial Test Gauge Range 0-25.4mm/1'' Dial Test Indicators Electronic Indicator Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JYCVHLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.gYFyb3FZ6GB7

If it's a relatively simple shape, you can measure it up with some calipers and be on your way. For most 3d printing applications you don't need to go drop a bunch of money on some Mitutoyo or other "high end" calipers; These would do just fine.

Another trick for something with a lot more shapes to it, is to take a picture of it as squarly straight down as you can with a ruler next to it, so you can import the image as a 'canvas' into your modeling software, scale it until an inch on the ruler equals an inch in the software, and then you can trace the shapes up pretty well that way without having to do a ton of reiteration. Just keep material shrinkage etc in mind when you go to print if you're using a material susceptible to that.

You can get digital angle finders pretty cheap that are incredibly accurate. I use one like this to set precise angles on my table and miter saws all the time.

https://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-Type-Digital-Backlight/dp/B00T6YZ0K6

I'm kind of thinking of just getting one of these and sticking with free handing. I THINK I'm at 15-20 degree angle (results seem to indicate as such) but I'm not 100% positive. I just have no real concept of angles other than eye-balling it. I don't have enough knives (yet) to really validate the clone/real thing anyways lol http://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-Digital-Angle-Gauge/dp/B001PTGBRQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1422170880&sr=8-8&keywords=angle+finder

For the absolute cheapest, you can get them for $15 on Amazon, $12 at Walmart.com, $11 on eBay and so on, and there's always Harbor Freight parking lot sales if you have one local to and you get lucky. I've no clue what you'd be risking by scraping the bottom of the barrel, but the reviews on the amazon one are good, at least.

I got a nice digital one on Amazon for about $20. There are cheaper ones but I really like the digital readout.

To add to /u/ntoff's idea, feeler gauges make great shims. Find a metric set like this and cut the 0.5mm shim with some tin snips and then wrap it around the stepper shaft.

If you want fractional inches get these and not the other ones, I have two pairs and they are very good quality, I beat on one pair and it still reads accurately, I check it with gauge blocks regularly. If you aren’t going to use fractional inches then the other ones are fine as well, your choice.

Link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017KUC6XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_QDKNDbHGK45N4

Digital Calipers

• Don't get "no name" or unproven models.
  
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1yqZx_FNbSs
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AQEZ2W (iGaging, step down from Absolute model)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS (iGaging Absolute, great product)
  
  
• http://www.igaging.com/
  
  
  

I'd buy something like this. It's just an example, probably better ones available, it's just the first one that came up.

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1405012283&sr=1-1&keywords=vernier+digital

I invested about $30 in a digital angle gauge. It's really nice to have around to make sure your saws are in tune also.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PTGBRQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Overextrusion would only change if you modify your E steps per mm. You should not do this, though, without proper measurement. To calibrate E steps per mm, you mark off 100mm of the filament and tell the printer to extrude 100mm of the filament. Then, see what difference it actually extruded, and adjust your steps fractionally to compensate.

As for your XY steps per mm, you cannot do it without calipers. Pick up a nice pair, like these

try one of these digital angle gauges. I bought a cheaper version of this (about $15 iirc) from HF and it has saved me hours of headache. I've used this on a cheap jobsite saw and managed to get perfect 90 degree cuts every time.

Accurate table saw and a digital protractor.

I also have one of these and it is wonderful, just slap it on the blade: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0148M7P4O/

Start by reading the FAQ at /r/reloading. Make sure you have a look see at a reloading manual or two as well.

Bare minimum equipment you will need is:

Press

Dies for your caliber

Calipers

Scale

Lube

I started with a Lee Challenger kit which is $116 and has everything you will need, minus a set of calipers for about $25. I also got a digital scale and a tumbler. All in you will be about $200 or so to start pumping out rounds.

What kind are you looking for? Something like a T-bevel? Or a digital level? I've got both, and they work fine for their particular applications.

These Neikos from Amazon are fine. I have two: one for reloading and one for printing. Any nicer would be overkill. Starretts and Mitutoyos are great, but the clearances 3d printing deals with just don't need that much accuracy; I've found my cheapish ones to be +/- 0.01ish mm, so being conservative and calling it 0.02mm, it's still close enough that my filament diameter measurements end up being spot on.

>Harbor Frieght calipers

Whenever I hear/see someone using these, I show this alternative.

They're no B&S or Mitutoyo, but they are soooo much better than those HF jobs while being cheap enough that you can travel with them without (monetary) fear of them getting damaged/lost/confiscated.

Use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-AngleCube-Digital-Level-Bevel/dp/B002LL0BIC

Use a precise ground bar across the outer rim to set 'level' (or even better, mount it level in a vice with a machinist level), then use the digital angle cube. Should be accurate to ~12 minutes.

Alternatively if you need more accuracy, mount it in the mill vice, then run a 10ths indicator along the distance. Record measurement at a '0' and at the end (but measure travel). Do the math. Do on both sides of the center and you don't even have to make sure you've mounted it correctly in the vice, since the average of the two will be the proper angle.

Using a digital caliper on the clamp area is the best way to measure it if you can't find the spec somewhere online. I recall my 2009 Pista having a 26.0 handlebar clamp diameter.

Cinelli Peppers are cool, but you can't go wrong with Nitto either.

I use this one

For what it's worth, it does the job. I know it's over $100 but I wouldn't trust anything lower than this one. $120 bucks is a lot better than a respray though!

Mitutoyo 500-196-30 Advanced... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IG46NL2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share This is a great set of calipers

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-Advanced-Absolute-Digital-Caliper/dp/B00WMKUUAQ I've been using a set of these professionally for the last 20 years, they're awesome. I used to be an automotive prototype fabricator and this is what I used to measure parts being machined, etc..

Unless your boyfriend is a machinist, go with the calipers all day long. Mic's are for very precise measurement of specific items and are much less versatile for everyday use. You'll notice that most micrometers will only measure 1 inch, so if you actually need to use them you will often you'll have a set of many mics that measure 0-1", 1-2", 2-3"... ect. Whereas calipers measure 0-6 inches and are much faster (but do sacrifice some accuracy).

So as for calipers, Mitutoyo's are pretty hot right now. This is the pair my wife bought me a few years ago and I couldn't be happier:

https://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-500-196-30-Advanced-Measuring-Resolution/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1550246576&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=mitutoyo+caliper&psc=1

If you want to shop around make sure that you get either a Mitutoyo, Brown and Sharpe, or Starrett brand.

Snap On does not make all their own tools. It wouldn't surprise me if the Snappy set is just a re branded starrett. The boxes look identical. That being said, what kind of work do you do? I do a lot of structures and I barely use my combination set. I use the shit out on my little 4" square. Unless you're in a machine shop I think the big name sets are way overkill.

I mostly use a 6", 18" scale, a 4" Combination square, and a Mitutoyo Caliper

I know what sub i'm in but seriously dude:

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW

You have to factor in the value of your own time.

Cool fix anyway.

I just bought some calipers from Amazon for about $30. Can someone explain to me how these Mitutoyo calipers that cost >$100 are better than my $30 ones?

CRACKMON Not going to lie that is a great name. Not sure if its the best deal but a quick search led me to those. You maybe able to find something cheaper and more information on how they work.

Buy an inexpensive angle gauge at Home Depot (digital is better but costs more). Place on jack stands. Remove brake caliper and bracket, but leave one lug nut on tight. Place the magnetized portion against the rotor. Note the angle of the rotor. Do all the work and put the angle gauge back on and adjust the strut bolts until you get close to the original angle. Do the same thing the following week when you do the struts. This will get you close to the same ballpark each time. Then get a real alignment.

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-Magnetic-Locator-1794488/dp/B005XUHKSM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1499728247&sr=8-5&keywords=angle+gauge


https://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR300-Type-Digital-Backlight/dp/B00T6YZ0K6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499728474&sr=8-1&keywords=angle+gauge

What WayGroovy said.

I picked up This Pair

They are pretty nice and affordable. I would stay away from the 20 dollar throwaways. They are more trouble than they are worth.

Bought this one and works wonderfully.

Some of the less intuitive acccessories I've found helpful:

• Foam/Soft padding for under printer. This helps reduce the vibrations from the printer traveling into the surface it's sitting on and producing additional noise (though the i3 MK3 is supposed to be remarkably quiet.) I use a rubber paver, but I've seen foam mats or other soft-cell products.
  
• If your table is shaky, a paving stone can also help eliminate wobble and vibrations
  
• I didn't plan to have an enclosure since I wasn't interested in ABS, but even my PLA prints had a little bit of warping and pulling off the bed. Adding a casual enclosure made of plastic sheeting did wonders. (Not my writeup, but same idea. I used 6-mil leftover from work for durability.)
  
• I wasn't originally comfortable leaving the printer home alone printing, but even a moderately-size print takes most of a day, so I added a Wyze IP Camera, a TP-Link Internet-Controlled Outlet, and a smoke-detector to my setup. Now I can monitor the printer from anywhere, and at the very least kill power if it looks like things are going awry. An Octoprint setup would be more snazzy.
  
  Here's the tools I use most frequently in 3d printing and assembly - I suspect you'll have most of these from modelling work:
  
  
• Digital Calipers for measuring existing objects and calibrating printer.
  
• Putty Knife for removing prints from bed.
  
• Metric Hex Key Set with Ball Ends for making adjustments to printer/adding parts
  
• #1/#2 Philips head screwdriver
  
• Precision Philip Screwdriver
  
• Assorted M3 Hardware. (I standardized on M3, you could choose another size or diversify). I recommend some heat-fit threaded inserts at any size.
  
• Cheapie Rotary Tool with cutoff wheel, sanding/buffing attachments, engraving bit.
  
• Needle Files
  
• Sandpaper - 120, 220, 400 grit.
  
• Superglue/CA Glue
  
• Needle-nose Pliers, nice and fine tip
  
• Flush Cutters, I'm partial to the actual Hakkos.

It's $160, but this has been the best I've used for reliability and precision, and I suspect anything sub-50 will be mostly garbage if you don't want springy/unreliable calipers.

Edit: Amazon link for $115

Mitutoyo is the right answer. You can't go wrong there.

If you want a cheaper solution, I've heard good things about these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_02MAyb2RWWRKM

I've used many pairs of $10 calipers and sometimes they work fine. When they don't it's pretty disappointing. What might you waste/ruin by cutting something the wrong size? How long would it take to make back the extra $30? $100?

Electric could be .011 too as I told my guy I play heavy last time I got my les paul set up. No idea what's on the Jaguar but I think they might be .008s? I like a light touch on fenders.

Either way I'd rather spend $17 on the tool and get the job done than buy a $20-$30 in electric strings and $10-15 in acoustic strings, and then throw most of them away.

I got this caliper recently and have found it to be excellent for the money.

What's your budget? The cheapo $20 dial calipers I have work pretty well, actually. Good enough for me, but I'm not a machinist.

Poke around the local pawn shops. I got a Mitutoyo 500-196 digital caliper for $60 from my local pawn shop.

Otherwise, they're $124 on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Stainless-Digital-Caliper-Extra-Large/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1311244096&sr=1-2

These will cover most small objects. They have different lengths for different things, so pick whatever suits you. Have fun!

I just started about six months ago, and I thought I would add some pretty un-sexy things to the list... but Im so happy with them

• FastCap Glue Bottle Dispenses from the bottom. Precise and convenient control
  
• [Sanding Disc Pad] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XW7MZVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Means not having to buy sanding paper of different sizes
  Silicone Glue Brushes Are completely reuseable
  Digital caliper Since grabbing this I have used it countless times when making cuts to match
  
• Clamps, clamps, clamps
  
• Also please don't forget PPE :)
  
  Edit: Apparently I can't bullet point :(

I dont have experience with printrbot, but i used tom's guide from youtube to do my calibrating. Just watch his video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y

Depends on the software for real time changes. I use octoprint. I know repetier host is really good also. If you do that, just set it as 100 in the slicer, then adjust in real time so you know what your setting should be always.

If you dont have a pair of calipers get these to measure the outside diameter of your filament, that may be why you have to adjust your extrusion. if the diameter is bigger, then it is shoving for plastic in thatn it really should.
http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Extra-Large/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451996465&sr=8-1&keywords=caliper

I am a toolermaker by trade, and i actually use these everyday in the shop. I stopped using my expensive ones and just use these now.

About Calibrating a Delta, I'm using this wizard to calibrate mine and I've got to a point where I can't seem to get better than [-0.1:0.1] offset on all 7 probe points. I'm using 6 factor and [a gauge like this](uxcell Metric Thickness Feeler Gage Gauge (0.02-1.00mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052IRYVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_WJL7ivK8ztXUi) using the 0.1 mm sheet to measure the height between the nozzle and the bed.

How do I know when to stop?

Miter saws are for convenience, not precision. Especially a cheap sliding one will go out of adjustment very easily. There's nothing preventing your table saw from making perfect 45° cuts, but you can't rely on the angle gauge even on some high-end saws.

Get a Wixey angle gauge to set the tilt of your blade (which may require adjusting a stop inside the saw), or make a miter sled which allows for fast, easy cuts with the blade straight.

EDIT: I really suggest staying away from plastic calipers. There are metal calipers that are similarly priced and will last much much longer and are higher quality.

I usually recommend these from Harbor Freight because they do fractions:

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-with-sae-and-metric-fractional-readings-63731.html

And these from Amazon because the quality is much higher for a very good price, but they don't do fractions.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00INL0BTS

I use both depending on what room I'm in.

Yep. But if you build the kit yourself:

This press
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Reloading-Press-Md-90045/dp/B002SF4X5I/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1497553125&sr=1-1&keywords=lee+press

Dies
https://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision-30-RGB-Die/dp/B000N8LHQK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1497553143&sr=1-4-fkmr0&keywords=lee+press+RGB

Scale
https://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-Digital-Scale-sensitivity/dp/B0012LOQUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497553166&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+scale

Calipers
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Electronic-Digital-Caliper/dp/B000GSLKIW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497553204&sr=8-3&keywords=calipers

Priming Tool
https://www.amazon.com/LEE-LP90106-Lee-Precision-Prime/dp/B00162UGQE/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1497553314&sr=1-7&keywords=priming+tool

... and a few other small things, you should be under $100 dies included.

There is often no need for electronic measuring if you are prepared to check visually from time to time. You can use tell-tales which allow you to detect movement of oine piece against the other in two dimensions whether it is a crack or a corner. See here for an example from Amazon. If you buy many, you should find them significantly cheaper. The movement is very obvious when checked and I recommend photographing with a mobile phone (as it timestamps).

Strain guages are more for sudden problems like subsidence, heavy road traffic or earthquakes.

Don't use the printed manual for assembly, use the online manual. Before doing each step, read the comments made by previous buyers. If you see a lot of comments on a particular step, call it a night and wait until you're fresh before proceeding.

I also recommended getting digital calipers. If you're made out of money, get a Mitutoyo.

I picked up this digital caliper from Amazon about 3 years ago, indispensable for this sort of thing. Make sure you measure in several places around the filament and average. Filament is rarely round.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PTGBR6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One machine screw with a spring washer and three sheet metal screws. Buy these:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01407A-Extra-Large-SAE-Metric-Conversion/dp/B000GSLKIW/

You can take a pretty close guess at exactly what the screw specifications are without them, but they're cheap, very useful and will tell you exactly what the screws are.

They're insanely useful in DIY projects, and many cost under $20. Here's the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GSLKIW/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or better yet, throw a crack gauge on the joint so you can quantitatively measure any changes over time.

When's the last time you calibrated the saw? tighten the blade, made sure the fence is square, etc. Pick up a digital angle gauge which can help

For the record, those digital calipers aren't made by Frankford, but are re-branded. You can get the same set "made" by several different companies but cheaper, like this set.

Not that there's anything wrong with the Frankford ones. Just pointing it out in case you were interested in saving a few dollars.

How To Measure Your IPD covers it pretty well. I used Digital Calipers that I already happened to own (not the exact ones linked, however), but you can use a regular ruler to do it.

Should probably pick up a pair of rotor calipers to measure them accurately so you get the most out of them. Something like this:

Anytime Tools Disc Brake Rotor Caliper Digital Electronic Gauge Gage Micrometer 0-2.5"/0.0005" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006Y1OWKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RvU4yb42MT4DP

If you want to go cheap, buy harbor freight. They'll be just fine for this application.

If you want the bees knees, the ones that will last a lifetime, buy Mitutoyo. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IG46NL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_15BWzbPF2TE7R

Smooth surfaces on all rotors, you'll need a rotor measuring caliper to know for sure. There is a specified minimum thickness, which is often stamped onto the rotor, wither the hat (the raised portion where the hub is) or the outer rim of the disc. At the thinnest part the rotors should be thicker than the min specified.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00INL0BTS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_pLbZDbZK580M6

Had mine for about 2 years. It has been reliable and repeatable. I haven't put it on a calibration block set but everything I've used it for has fit together as expected.

If there is a second set screw and you have a set of calipers and a thread pitch guage handy, you can remove the second set screw and measure the major diameter which is your nominal thread size, overall length of the screw and the thread pitch. It will also likely be a "cup point" set screw, not a "dog point" or anything else crazy.

Otherwise, find a local machine shop to help you determine what you need, or a gunsmith to take care of everything.

so im looking to get into 3d Printing, and unless someone has some better option, im going with the MP Select Mini.

My question is on the other things i need. Here is the list of the things im looking to buy along with the printer:

• Scotch Blue Tape
  
• Elmers Stick Glue
  
• Digitial Caliper
  
• Mirco Cutter
  
• Palette Knifes
  
• Nozzle cleaning kit
  
• 2 rolls of Hatchbox 1.75mm PLA, green and grey
  
  I have a set of exacto knives and a screw bit set. Is there anything else im missing?

If you're doing any kind of modeling of real life objects, it might be worth your while to buy a digital caliper so you can make your own measurements, especially if you need more specific ones after you get the initial ones in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GSLKIW/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_b2hbgbL_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s

It's not that hard if you have the mind for it and don't mind watching a lot of videos. Fusion360 has all of the tutorials built right in and it's free software if you are a maker. You will need some tools to measure things and plan them in the real world. I bought this and it has been all I have needed so far, but I've mostly been printing board game things.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1