(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best dimmer switches

I've used both HomeSeer and Zooz. I'll discuss the 3 flagship dimmers- Zooz ZEN27, HomeSeer HS-WD200+, and Inovelli LZW31-SN (Red Series Gen2 dimmer). Please let me know if I get anything wrong or miss something here!

Zooz ZEN27 is quite solid. Works great, despite being the cheapest at $33. No reddit/forum presence that I can see, but their email support responds super fast (I've only emailed to ask for firmware updates, they reply in under one day) and are extremely friendly.
Zooz design philosophy seems to be take a simple product and make it solid but functional without breaking the bank. They don't have bells/whistles like others, but they are responsive to firmware requests (for example, they recently added support for multi-tap scene control). ZEN27 is part of their 2nd generation switch series.

HomeSeer doesn't have much Reddit presence but they have an active forum community at their site which includes participation by HomeSeer employees. HomeSeer's subreddit isn't as active as their site's (very extensive and helpful) community forum, but /u/HomeSeerMark is an active Redditor. Product quality is very good. HomeSeer was the first to go after the tweaker tech enthusiast category, adding things like multi-tap scene control and remotely controllable LEDs, the 200 series switch is their 2nd generation of Z-Wave switch. They aim to be the 'gold standard' of Z-Wave switches, thus their relatively high price of $50.
HomeSeer design philosophy has a HomeSeer type hub in mind- where the majority of the intelligence is in the hub and there's no need to work around dumb hubs. Thus they aren't a great match for a 'dumb' hub like Wink that can't program their advanced features.


Inovelli of course has a big presence online and on reddit- /u/InovelliUSA is their head guy and they have an active forum on their website that several Inovelli employees post in on a daily basis. Inovelli is unique in that they are running their product development largely openly, with frequent status updates. I've not used their products yet but I've read good things. Info I quote here is from what I've read. Price is middle of the pack at $40 on Amazon, although it's slightly cheaper on their website ($36-$37).
Inovelli design philosophy seems to be make the switch do everything for everybody, including those with dumb hubs. Thus all their functionality can be controlled via Z-Wave, but a lot can also be done locally. A second on-switch button allows a programming mode, where tapping buttons various numbers of times will configure most functionality. As a side note, their current functionality is limited by the small amount of flash in the Z-Wave 500 series chip that runs the switch. They've mentioned the next generation will use Z-Wave 700 series chips, which have more storage and thus can handle more functionality. The Z-Wave 700 series chips weren't widely available as of the LZW31-SN's release, thus the use of 500 series chips.

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Main differences between the 3 flagship dimmers:

LEDs:
Zooz has one blue LED. It can be set to be on when load is on (status mode) or on when load is off (standby mode).
HomeSeer has 7 small round LEDs on the left side of the switch. By default they are white and light from bottom to top to indicate dimming level. Each LED can be individually controlled by z-wave command- set to 7 colors (red / green / blue / magenta / yellow / cyan / white) or turned off. Blinking is also available. Bottom LED can be set as a standby light (goes on only when load is off).
Inovelli has a translucent bar that's backlit by several LEDs. The color of the bar can be set almost infinitely, as can blink rate and total brightness, using this calculator to create the config string to send via Z-Wave. However the LEDs are NOT individually addressable, so you can't have (for example) the top LED be green and the bottom LED be red and the ones in the middle blue. White also appears not to be a supported color.
It's worth noting that the HomeSeer LEDs are pretty small and unobtrusive; the Inovelli LED strip is (from the videos I've seen) far more prominent and easier to see from across the room.

3-way capability:
Zooz uses a dumb switch as the 3-way control. This will turn the light on and off but nothing else (no dimming or scene control). The dumb switch is a standard 3-way addon switch, so it will have an on and off position that may not reflect the state of the light.
HomeSeer sells a dedicated add-on switch (HS-WA100+, it's $20). Like the main dimmer, this is a neutral paddle (sits in the middle, and can be tapped up or down). Tapping the top or bottom is the same as tapping the top or bottom of the main switch- tap for on/off, hold for dim, multi-tap for scene control.
Inovelli can be used either with a dumb switch (which gives the same limitations as Zooz) or with an add-on switch (which gives the same functionality as HomeSeer). Inovelli does not make add-on switches, but their dimmer works with the HomeSeer HS-WA100+ or with the GE add-on switch.

Scene Control:
Zooz has only recently added multi-tap scene control with a firmware update. Multi-taps also trigger the default functions on the switch- IE double tap of the top turns on the light to 100% (in addition to whatever scene it triggers), triple tap of the top initiates Z-Wave add/remove mode, etc. However all taps (single or multi) and tap/hold/release are reported as central scene commands and thus can be used to trigger other actions, as long as you don't mind the switch also reacting.
HomeSeer has extensive multi-tap capability. Up to 5 taps of the top and bottom of the paddle, plus holding the top and bottom. Single tap WILL always turn the load on/off. Tap/hold WILL always dim the load, although the dimming function can be restricted.
Inovelli has the most extensive scene control. Up to 5 taps of top and bottom of paddle (I've heard 6 taps in some places, so not sure of this), plus tap/hold/release. The config button can also be single-pressed as another scene trigger.
Unique to Inovelli- the internal relay control can be disabled, so single tap / tap+hold doesn't turn the attached light on/off/dim. This essentially makes the switch a scene controller and a separate light controller, so any command to turn the attached load on/off MUST come from the hub. This is useful for smart bulbs where you never want the power shut off, or situations where you want to force the lights to be on or off without local control.

Power Control / Dimming:
Zooz has smooth dimming with no detectable flicker. However the 1% seems to be decently bright.
HomeSeer seems to dim much more deeply, but with flicker. Note that I have this on a different type of LED than the Zooz so the flicker could be a bulb problem. It's worth noting that many LEDs will flicker or not start at super low dim levels no matter what dimmer feeds them.
I've not used or heard anything about Inovelli dimmers in this regard.

Unique features:
Inovelli has two unique features- first they don't require a neutral wire. Second, the switch includes load monitoring, so you can monitor the consumed wattage of your lights. However the load monitoring only works if the switch is wired with a neutral wire connected.

Hope that helps!

//edit1: fixed Homeseer design philosophy saying Inovelli, added /u/HomeSeerMark, added Amazon links, clarified why Inovelli uses Z-Wave 500 chips in their dimmer.

Good morning /u/EFaden and congrats on the new house!

I'm not sure what HUB you have but there are a couple options if you want to keep the standard in-wall switch, but use scenes to automate things.

Disclaimer: I'm associated with Inovelli, so please keep that in mind. However, I'll lay out all the options that I know of since the scene switches are a passion of mine since they can do so much

On that note, there's a few brands that I'm aware of that have the scene functionality built into a normal in-wall switch and they are: GE, ZWP, HomeSeer, and ourselves.

GE, I believe has a double tap feature in their new Z-Wave Plus switches, but I just have their old ones in my house (which have been great) so I can't confirm, but I've seen posts about it.

HomeSeer was actually one of the first, if not the first companies to come out with this and I personally have one of their switches in my house as well and it's been rock solid. You can add up to I believe 10 scenes to it by single/double/triple/4x/5x tapping the switch (top and bottom). There's a specific device handler for it if you're on SmartThings.

ZWP, I don't really know much about, I just saw they had a scene switch too.

As for Inovelli, we're really proud of the work our guys put into the firmware this time and I'll highlight some of the features below:

• Ability to add 10-12 scenes (10 for Dimmer and 12 for On/Off) based on taps or holds
  
  
• Ability to disable the internal relay - this is good for people who use smart bulbs on their loads so that now when the switch is used, rather than cutting power to the smart bulb, the switch will instead send a scene command to the HUB to turn the light on (or if you have a Z-Wave bulb, it can be directly associated with the bulb and there will be no need for a command to be sent to the HUB). I personally use this feature in my daughter's room bc she has a Hue light setup on it and depending on the number of taps, the bulb will turn a different color
  
  
• For dimmers, you can now set the default brightness based on the time of day. An example would be at night time if you don't want to blind yourself in the bathroom, you can set it so that the dimmer will only dim to 10% between the hours of 10pm and 6am. This can be set to happen locally (manual pressing) or remotely
  
  
• Also for Dimmers, you can change the speed at which the switch turns on. Some people like a slow dim, some people like a fast dim, while others like an, "instant on" effect to mimic an On/Off switch
  
  
• Change the minimum dimming level - this is great for if you have an LED bulb that starts flickering at the low setting
  
  
• Finally, you do not have to have an auxiliary switch in a 3-Way setting. Simply wire this up to your existing, "dumb" switch and it will work as a normal 3-Way switch
  
  As I said above, not sure what HUB you have, but we wrote device handlers for SmartThings and Drivers for Hubitat, but if you don't have those, the settings above can all be done via parameters (except for the dimming based on time of day, let me check with our VP of Tech)
  
  Anyway, I hope that helped a bit. You can't go wrong with any of those brands. They're all unique in their own way and if you're thinking about Z-Wave, then they are some very reputable brands.
  
  Have a great day and if you have any questions, feel free to reach out!
  
  Eric
  
  Founder | Inovelli
  
  

  
  <br />
  Links:<br />
  <br />
  GE: <br />
  <br />

• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C
  
  HomeSeer: (they have quite a few, so just type in, "HomeSeer Z-Wave Plus Switch" and they should all come up. I'm going to put the couple I know work with ST)
  
  
• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFSAAJ4
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFRWZNE
  
  ZWP:
  
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725SZMTG
  
  Inovelli
  
  
• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N235ROS
  
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAUCQ18

Non-abode cameras are limited as to what will work directly with Abode. Not a major loss in my opinion. I have one Nest camera, from my girlfriend's old apartment install, tied in to abode but it doesn't do too much with abode. It only seems to pull a single capture upon me manually telling it to. There are only a few that intergrate with abode.

That said I haven't delved to deep into it. I personally mostly use poe IP cameras with the feeds piping to a local computer running Blueiris. Cheap, local, and pretty robust software.

Automation is fairly good with Abode. Check the list on the sidebar of this sub-reddit. Use that list for official and unofficialy supported devices. Not all zwave devices are automatically compatible. I have most of my light switches with zwave connections and a garage door controler. Beyond that and Abode's devices I use other individual apps to control it. Neato vacuum and Rainmachine sprinkler controls for example I'd rather have their own company's interface.

I've gone with the Leviton brand switches. I liked the feel and control of their dimmers, while still being similar to a regular switch. This is a plus when the tech illiterate or guests come over and try to use them. They synced up first time with no issues. Fast and responsive when commands are sent. Dimming works well through Abode. I also have a Phillips color light strip that works just as well.

For my "dumb" ceiling fans on or off control (no stage or variable speed remotely):
Leviton DZ15S-1BZ Decora Smart Switch with Z-Wave Plus Technology, White/Light Almond, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ0WVKH/

Leviton DZ1KD-1BZ Decora Smart 1000W Dimmer with Z-Wave Plus Technology, White/Light Almond, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQX5L8P/

For bedside lamps, and a few other lamps:
Leviton DZPD3-2BW Decora Smart Plug-in Dimmer with Z-Wave Plus Technology, White, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7NPRSB/

I have other Wemo switches in the bathrooms that don't interface with Abode. I did this because they offered a more direct way to put automated countdown trimmers on exhaust fans. I really couldn't find a way with Abode & IFTTT to do countdown timers based on when I clicked the switch. Abode with IFTTT can do sun up, sun down, specific times, and other triggers but not count downs from when the switch was clicked on. There may be a way but I'm not much for programming. I also liked the wemo dimmer switch look, but only for the bathrooms since they couldn't do a two/three way switch. I don't normally need to control the bathrooms remotely, but can through the Wemo app if I need to.

I can't speak to voice automation. I have an Alexa pod but don't like to use it for other reasons.

Beyond that I went with Abode sensors. They work very well. I got onto Abode in part because of the water leak sensors. They work and saved me some water damage when the AC froze over and started leaking in the attic. The occupancy sensors are neat but I haven't made good use of them. The temperature sensors work but I wish they kept a running history of temps.

Windows and doors I used the old security system's reed switches and wiring soldered into individual abode door sensors. Works like a charm and is completly hidden. Added in acoustic and vibration/glass break sensors in various rooms for added layer of sensing.

Smoke alarm detector works well with my existing smoke alarms. They call you pretty darn fast with the monitoring service. I'd like to upgrade to something like Nest's smoke alarms but they currently are expensive to replace a large home's worth of fire alarms and don't automatically call the fire department through Abode.

Let me know what other questions you have and I'll try to answer them.

That's pretty awesome and certainly very powerful/customizable. Nice job!

> I just couldn't justify dropping $60 for a circle with 3 buttons on it, and no dimmers.

I just wanted to clarify, the Hue Tap switch can, in fact, have one of the its buttons assigned to a dimmer mode, via Hue Labs. It cycles through three levels of (adjustable) brightness. There are a handful of Android and iOS apps too, that can make the same assignment.

Also, the Hue Dimmer switch is just $25. Or $35 bundled with a white bulb.

Lastly, many don't realize this but the old Philips "LivingColors" remotes work perfectly fine (now) with Hue bulbs and hub.

Image of a compatible model here:

I've just set up my second one, and have them both working in different rooms of my house. And for less than $15 on Amazon or eBay, they're the cheapest (and actually most versatile) physical, light switches for a Hue system. You can even select the desired color right from the remote. I love them! (Discussion here.)

Thanks for sharing your ideas and work here, and enjoy!

My recommendation would be lighting first. HomeKit has great support for smart lighting products and seems to work the best at the moment.

I went with Lutron Caseta for all of my overhead lights because I like to be able to control them with the switch when I need to. They are good for chandeliers or anything with multiple/specialty bulbs. Casetas require a bit of electrical knowledge. Only go this way if you're comfortable with installing light switches or willing to learn. Also not a good idea for renters.

As an alternate route, you can go with Philips Hue white and color ambience bulbs. This are great for lamps or any lights that do not have an easily accessible switch. A good choice for renters and easy non-invasive installation.

Thermostats, Locks, and Sensors should come after you get a good idea on how to set up your lighting scenes and home automation.

If you want to be able to remotely control your HomeKit devices, you should buy an Apple TV 4th Generation.

Everyone has different needs in their home. What would you like to convert to a smart product first?


Lutron Caseta starter kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XPW6824/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1483293754&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=caseta&dpPl=1&dpID=41ceEVWftrL&ref=plSrch

Philips hue starter kit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MF63MGR/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483293817&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=philips+hue+starter+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=31kPit0lUAL&ref=plSrch

Home assistant will interface with all sorts of products you can look at the Home Assistant website to see all things it interfaces with.

I will also say that this is the most active community and the fastest to incorporate new products. Over the last five months I have been tinkering with HA many new products have been incorporated.


As for the Iris Smart Plug it is a zigbee device that contains a Zwave radio. It will connect to your Zwave network and be an always on device (meaning that it will extend the reach of your mesh network) but you will not be able to control the on and off of the plug. I have two of them and they work great if you use something that has Zigbee radio.
If you are only going to utilize the Z-Stick you will want to use something like one of the following:

[Leviton VRPD3-1LW Vizia RF] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFF4RG4/ref=twister_B01JJKURQS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) I have this one for my Christmas tree

GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Controller

[GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Outdoor Module] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V8K3O/ref=twister_B017SOTBJG?_encoding=UTF8&th=1) I have a few of these outside

As for the GE Duplex outlet, I have one or two of them but I really like the design and functionality of the Leviton VRR15-1LZ Vizia RF + Split Duplex Receptacle better.

As for light bulbs, I own Hue, Link, Cree, and maybe one more. They are all Zigbee bulbs so I connect them to the Hue hub and let it interface with HA. They work fine for my uses but I really don't care about the colors. When Lifx put its bulbs on sale a few weeks ago I almost bought some of the BR30 but didn't because they don't interface with Home Kit. I really don't need them since the fixtures already have a zwave switch but I thought it would be nice to change colors if I wanted to. Also I have found that some of the Zigbee bulbs loose the connection with the hub if they are turned on and off from a switch. I was hoping the Lifx being wifi would not do that.

Would anyone be interested in some youtube videos explaining my setup and discussing my experiences with products?

Remember what matters is the protocols that the hub supports.

I also like to think of some devices as 'accessory' or 'auxiliary' devices, which provide a function or connectivity to gadgets (like light switches, outlets, locks, etc.) versus 'main' or 'hub' devices, which serve to unify/centralize your accessory/auxiliary devices and give you a central interface.

Insteon is a little different, since it's more of an auxiliary device (since you need the Hub/Modem to communicate with Insteon devices), but the Insteon hub also tries to be a 'main' device--not that it's a bad thing. You can actually use this to your advantage and switch to an Insteon Modem to use your Insteon devices with other 'main' hubs like Vera and Smartthings.

Anyhow, the Wink 2 supports, Bluetooth LE, Kidde, Clear Connect, Z-Wave & ZigBee. You are not limited to the Wink-branded modules! You can get any Z-Wave module. That said, the Wink site pushes the Leviton DZC Series Z-Wave lamp dimmers, but you can just as well go with a different Leviton or a GoControl/GE/Linear.

That said, you may also want to double-check the web to ensure that whatever you get will work out of the box with the Wink itself. This site shows both of those I listed as working.

As for recommendations, I've heard good things about the Smartthings hubs as of late. Winks have mixed reviews, but I think most are happy with them, especially for an easy, 'turnkey' device.

I use one of these with ST. I use a single LED bulb with it, and there is no leakage (where the bulb stays very dim when the device reports that it is off).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFF4RG4/ref=pd_lpo_60_lp_t_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B2DSVATDP5S4G02RR64P

I have also used the MonoPrice Z-Wave dimmer, and that works fine with my lamps that have multiple bulbs, but on single bulb fixtures it leaks and leaves a dim glow.

Third option, like /u/breakfastbeerz points out, is to use Smart Bulbs. I have GE Link, and those are pretty good. I also have some Lightify Bulbs, and have had some Hue bulbs. The Lightify are just as good as the Hue, but half the price (and work natively with ST). I really like Lightify color bulbs, but the tuneable whites are nice for areas that you dont want or need color.

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch

ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

• Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  
• The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains
  
  I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
  
  For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
  
  In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
  
  Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
  
  
• Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  
• Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)
  
  Great applications for door open/close sensors:
  
  
• Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  
• Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  
• Notify me when my gun safe is opened
  
  Great Application for Motion Sensors
  
  
• Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  
• Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark
  
  The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).

I did this exactly in my backyard. I threw one of the more expensive Caseta dimmers INSIDE a weatherproof box outside and hard wired my patio lights into the junction box. It could have just as easily been the cheaper dimmer or the regular 6A switch and not the dimmer and it would have worked just as well. I spent a little more on the more expensive dimmer because the load was so low with the patio lights (20w total) that I didn't want any flickering or weirdness. I hardwired only because I didn't NEED a dimmable outlet, but you could also just as easily put a receptacle after the dimmer/switch.

​

I say all that just to let you know what you are asking for is entirely doable, like cduff77 mentioned, just get the plug-in dimmer, tie off the wall switch so it's always on and replace it with a wall mounted pico pemote. The whole thing will run you about $75 but it is well worth it.

​

Lutron hit it out of the PARK with Caseta, it's the most reliable smart device I have, and I have a ton (Ring Doorbell, August Lock, Philip's Hue, EcoBee Thermostat). All they need is to come out with a multi-speed fan controller and a couple of smart outlets (Controllable with Picos, just like you want) and they will own the game.

Daisy chain 2 smart plugs? Call it S and L. S is plugged into outlet controlled by switch. L plugs into outlet near your lamp. Lamp is plugged into L. Set your condition to if S is on then turn on L. and If S is off, then turn off L. it's alot easier to do with a hub.

or get one of these
Philips Hue Smart Dimming Kit, No Hub Required & Installation-Free, Exclusive for Philips Hue Lights (Works with Alexa Apple HomeKit and Google Assistant) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016AEHU70/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0ZEBDb3233Y9X

Awesome.


Is it something like THIS that is needed over what I PREVIOUSLY HAD?


$100 difference so it must "do something," right? LOL. Or do I need that dimmer plus a converter of sorts...?

Side note: You electricians are the best. My grandfather was one. Good man. Respect.

Hub: Wink Hub 2 -- very similar functionality as the SmartThings but more device type compatibilities (Lutron, etc.) and I'd recommend it since it seems to have a nicer user experience / easier setup, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Wink-WNKHUB-2US-Hub-2/dp/B01KW8WGZQ/ref=sr_1_1

Lamps: I would recommend these since they are easy (no wiring). https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRPD3-1LW-Capable-Dimming-Module/dp/B00JFF4RG4/ref=sr_1_2 -- I prefer this to smart light bulbs since light bulbs can break and every bulb doesn't fit every fixture.

Voice Echo or Echo Dots, but that's mostly personal preference

TV Harmony

I got a family member very into home automation by simply purchasing a Wink Hub 2, an Echo Dot, and a Leviton Lamp Dimmer.

Thank you for the detailed response. For me, I will likely be using just basic white LEDS, not RGB, so color space isn't a factor in this particular project (just wanting better lighting in my garage).

I was planning on using these modular LED enclosures attached to the ceiling, and then I wanted to control their on/off capabilities with something compatible with the Hue app. For that I think the Gledopto Dimmer Switch might be able to work, I'd need to adapt it somehow from the three prong power outlet that's included in the enclosures.

Ideally I was hoping to find something like this smart outlet, but from the recent reviews it seems that it's not compatible with Hue. I have yet to find one that explicitly states that it is verified Hue compatible. This would be nice because then I wouldn't have to worry about rewiring like I will with the Gledopto dimmer.

It don't know much about the flickering, I will have to research that some more.

Again, thank you for the response, if I ever want to do more Hue projects with proper RGB lights, I will keep your advice about color protocols in mind.

Be very careful when buying smart switches to ensure that they will work with LED bulbs. The Leviton switches listed by abode as compatible will NOT work with LED bulbs.

If you want to use Leviton switches that WILL work with LED bulbs, this is their newest Z-wave switch.

Leviton DZ15S-1BZ Decora Smart Switch with Z-Wave Plus Technology

I have that switch and it works fine and dandy; just got it about a month ago. I'm assuming the dimmer would work just as well, but it's just a guess.

Others here have had good luck with the GE switches and LED bulbs. I started down the Leviton route and didn't want mixed brands, so haven't gotten any GE switches yet.

Also, it might be worth it to make sure you have neutral wiring in whatever location you want to install a switch. I have neutral wiring throughout my house, but there is one room where it looks like the electrician got lazy and the switch was wired from light, and therefore I don't have a neutral in that one.

Looks great OP! I wish I had the space for a home theater. I've been getting myself involved in some DIY home automation. I was wondering if you've considered automating the lights in your theater to dim when you turn on your projector. I bought a Logitech Harmony 1100 remote which can be programmed to control multiple IR devices at once. If you installed an IR controlled light dimmer switch http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JJYJMM/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01 you could use a universal remote to to learn those IR commands and achieve this. Basically you'll set up all your devices (projector, game console/blu ray, audio receiver) to turn on with the click of one button, and then also have your IR light dimmer on a 5 second timer. Your theater devices would turn on and your lights would dim. Ready to party! I don't know how well the IR dimmer switches work to be honest, I'm supposed to receive one in the mail today. If it works well I'm going to buy more. I'll let you know.

Last I checked, the only color options were Hue and Lifx, but there may be more competition these days. I know GE Link was an option for Hue-bridge-compatible bulbs, but I think they are only white dimmable light, no color. They also weren't compatible with the HomeKit Hue bridge (if that's of any concern) but I feel like that may have changed in a firmware update. Cree is another one, but I have no experience with them.

Personally I've avoided wifi/bluetooth based (e.g. non-hub, like Lifx) options because it puts a lot of reliance on wifi which is already a crowded space typically. For areas where I don't need color Hue, I just bought this kit because it's only like $10 more than just the dimmer and gets you a white bulb at the same time. The dimmer can be programmed to control other bulbs, you can even set it for things like two taps sets a scene vs just on/off.

Ultimately, there's no real cheap way to get into this, especially if you want color bulbs. Go with kits where you can, they tend to be cheaper for what you get, like the hub and the dimmers, but it is going to be a bit of an investment either way. I'm not a big fan of mixing brands if there's a chance of inconsistency, but people seem to have good luck with GE and Cree if you're willing to take that chance. But again, with the dimmer kit, you're basically paying $10 per Hue, which offsets any savings of those brands anyway.

I was kind of hoping for a batteryless switch, but the Hue offering doesn't really look like a traditional light switch.
However, the remote control with a wall mount looks good and the batteries are supposed to last for 3+ years. That's good enough for me -- Phillips Hue it is.

(In case anyone is curious, the switch and the bulb are all that are required. However, I purchased separately so I could get a color bulb ($45), the switch ($25) and a hub ($50) to retain control from Google Assistant.)

Thanks a lot for the help!

Personally, I've had good luck with these: https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZW15RM-PLUS-App-Controlled-Automation-Interchangeable/dp/B07FKW42P6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=z-wave+outlet&qid=1562176329&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

As far as switches, I've got one of these (I figure the lights on the side help guests understand the functionality since it's not a standard on/off rocker switch): https://www.amazon.com/HomeSeer-HS-WD200-Z-Wave-Scene-Capable-Dimmer/dp/B079F38TPF/ref=sr_1_19_sspa?keywords=z-wave+switch&qid=1562176362&s=gateway&sr=8-19-spons&psc=1

That said, I've not yet installed the switch, so I can't vouch for it. Those outlets have been great with HA, though!

By regular, you mean the small “toggle” switch instead of the large flat “decora” switch? You can find some switch plates that mix and match between the styles but I’m not sure if you’d find one decora flanked by two toggle. You could always switch the toggles to decora as well to get a uniform look. Alternately, since you’re hard wiring the one you’re replacing with the pico you could push it to one side so it was toggle-toggle-decora like this one

The pico itself and its wall mount can go anywhere you put a decora. Hell, since you’re not hooking it to power you could put it anywhere you want! Here is a pico/wall mount bundle (though it’s actually $5 cheaper to buy them separately since you wouldn’t use the wall plate in this bundle in favor of the combo one above.)

Caseta does require a hub called smart bridge pro to integrate with HA, as it speaks its own proprietary wireless protocol. The “pro” part is important, a normal bridge won’t report the pico button presses you need to listen for. You can find them around $70 on eBay. A better deal, if you want/need a dimmer to use elsewhere in the house, is this starter kit (note the pro bridge) that you can find for $110-130 as the dimmer runs $50. The msrp for this is about $200 (and it’s seldom on amazon)

Lmk if you go this route and I can send you a config snippet to translate the pico presses to turn off/dim/change color on hue lights. It also requires a custom component that you use instead of the built in one (though there’s been talk of merging them). It’s super simple, you just grab it and drop it in the custom component directory.

Why Nest? If you're getting a Z-Wave hub, you can use less inexpensive options like this. If the thermostat isn't a major design element in your living room, you can save some money.

Before you invest in switches, verify that you have neutral wires where you need them, and check your 3-way switches carefully. Make sure you have room in your electrical boxes for smart switches - they're fairly bulky.

Lutron has lots of admirers but I personally don't understand. The parts are very expensive, and you must add the $80 LUtron Caseta Wireless Smart Bridge - more cost and complexity... I've had 100% perfect performance from GE switches and dimmers. They cost less than Lutron and they talk directly to SmartThings or any other Z-Wave hub.

I've had SmartThings for three years and it works just fine - my experience is nothing like the post below. I have 34 Z-Wave devices from a half dozen manufacturers, lots of automations and SmartApps, and it all works smoothly. Anyway - the hard part in this is installing the switches and sensors and locks. Changing hubs is relatively simple and you can always do it later if things don't work out.

Here’s a set of two dimmer switches, hub and remotes. No neutral wire required for these so couldn’t be easier to fit

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG2W-Assistant/dp/B01M3XJUAD/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1535840828&sr=1-7&keywords=lutron+caseta

And here’s just the hub and a basic switch. You do need a neutral for the switch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPW67ZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017LRCG38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It’s not cheap to get started for sure (mainly due to that bridge) but Caseta, apart from HomeBridge, has been my most solid HomeKit device. The bridge never requires a restart in my experience. I honestly wish I hadn’t invested so much in Hue before I used this.

I wouldn't recommend WiFi smart switches. Maybe one or two, sure, but you should try to keep your WiFi devices to a minimum for best WiFi performance.

Look at getting a hub and z-wave switches/dimmers. GE makes some good ones, switch and dimmer. Z-wave devices form a mesh and talk to each other on a completely separate wireless band than WiFi, so it won't hurt your WiFi performance.

I have 2 favorite items on my list is the Philips Hue Bulbs & the Lutron Smart Switch. These items has no sentimental value, but I would like to turn my home into a smart house since I'm into tech. It's not romantic, but he might like it if he's into tech also.

Are you saying your current setup has a single gang switch with controls for both fan and light in the same unit?

Like these (non-smart) switches:

Lutron S2-LFSQ-WH Skylark Dimmer & Fan Control

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JPXK2U/

​

Lutron MACL-LFQ-WH Maestro Dimmer and Fan Control

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077XDB8FV/

​

That is what I have on most of my ceiling fans (single gang box) and so far I haven't found a smart-switch that can replace them. I wish some manufacturer could build these in a smart version.

What HUB are you using?

I bought this switch (HomeSeer) and can do this with the following device handler and Smart App (SmartThings).

Product:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFSAAJ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kuDRzb9WGW255

Device Handler:
https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-homeseer-dimmer-and-switch-hs-wd100-hs-ws100-device-handlers/73836

SmartApp
https://community.smartthings.com/t/beta-advanced-button-controller-abc/90188

Works great! Hopefully you have SmartThings or something that can support scene functions!

They also have a dimming version that you can use the same:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFRWZNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FADRzb08ZMA50

>Although, I'm not crazy about that business tactic...

Hang on there. If you check the product description on Amazon, you'll see this: "HS-WD100+ may be used with most home controllers but should be used with HomeSeer Hometrollers for best compatibility with all features." As for firmware updates, what other smart switch company is even bothering to provide an option for firmware updates in the field?

To answer your first question, it's unlikely that you have an older version if you purchased it in late 2017. does HA provide a way for you to see product firmware versions? Here's device information for a 100 series dimmer installed in my office. The "Application Version" is the firmware version. (https://i.imgur.com/AKseLrh.jpg)

In the process of building a new home but here is what we are doing for most of the switches.

Most lights will be on GE motion zwave dimmer. Plan to use the motion as part of home alarm system as well as other triggers.

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Lighting Control Motion Sensor Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Vacancy/Occupancy Sensor, 26933
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y38FX5

Lights in multi gang boxes that already have a motion zwave will get the Homeseer 200 smart switch. The fans will be controlled by the Homeseer 200 fan switches. I plan to take advantage of their multi tap features to control other switches or automations and the leds to indicate current situations.

HomeSeer HS-WD200+ Z-Wave Plus Scene-Capable Wall Dimmer Switch w/RGB LED indicators
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079F38TPF

https://shop.homeseer.com/products/homeseer-hs-fc200-z-wave-plus-fan-controller

From my research these are the best/ most versatile zwave switches you can get.


I’d avoid smart bulbs for reasons mentioned already. I’d want everything to work without smarts if needed.

I’ve been very happy with TPLink switches like this one


TP-LINK (HS220) Kasa Smart Dimmer WiFi Light Switch, Neutral Wire, Works w/Alexa & Google https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079775ZZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_08pSDbP8TW630

For a dimmer switch to work the LED fixture needs to be dimmable, you can’t just use it on a fixture that isn’t designed to be dimmable. Many LED fixtures and bulbs being sold now are dimmable, so you may be lucky and they work for you.

Ok so here is the breakdown of what I am doing and a couple more photos of the UI and videos of it in action.

Here is the configuration.yaml and ui-lovelace.yaml files on Github.

The main components that are currently being used on the front end are:

• TP-Link/Kasa WiFi switches/outlets
  
  • HS100, HS105, HS200, HS210, HS220
    
• TP-Link/Kasa WiFi bulbs
  
  • LB130, LB200, LB230
    
• Ecobee 4 with 4 remote sensors
  
• August Lock and Connect
  
• Automatic
  
• Harmony Hub
  
• Foscam cameras
  
  • C1, R2e, FI9928P, FI9900PR
    
• Abode security system
  
• Darksky forecast
  
• Speedtest
  
  I intend for the UI to be displayed on a few Fire HD8 tablets. One that will be centrally located on the main floor of the house. Two others will be used as nightstand clocks in the master bedroom.
  
  At a high level, all I have done is drawn the floor plan and layouts in Sketch and exported individual assets as pngs and position them within a picture-elements card mostly utilizing image and its state_image. I would basically just plop down the button or icon or whatever with style: "top":50% "left":50%. Once the asset was in the UI I would inspect it via Chrome's dev tools inspector and select the parent container that the style was being set on. I would then manually adjust the top and left percentages until I was satisfied. I would then update ui-lovelace.yaml to include the new values and double check them in the browser.
  
  For the buttons, currently the button background and button text are baked into the image but I intend to change that soon. Basically the indicator light is actually the same size as the whole button its just 95% of it is transparent.
  
  Here are some screen caps (since i just posted photos from my phone last night)
  
  Here are a couple videos of it in action:
  
  
• Flipping a couple switches
  
• Switching between tabs
  
  Thats all I can think of for now to answer the basics... I am more than happy to go deeper into anything anyone has any questions about

Lutron Casseta has one, but that falls into the category of requiring a hub. However Alexa and Harmony can both control that hub.
I think the Aeontec micro dimmer switches can be wired up in a 3 way configuration. Just watch your power draw on them. However, you will need a z-wave hub to accommodate, which the harmony hub can't do by itself.
And I think these GE Switches should be capable of being wired in three way because they have a traveler wire. However, you will again need a hub to manager z-wave devices.

GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.

I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.

One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.

I don't know the Wink system, but I use Smartthings which is similar. You should be able to pick up a compatible z-wave/zigbee plug, or outlet and a zwave/zigbee button and set up your hub to trigger the outlets when the button is pushed. I use a Samsung motion detector in my kitchen to trigger the lights on/off automatically and it works pretty well. I haven't used the Sylvania stuff, but it looks like it should do the job.

https://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-Smart-Home-72922-LIGHTIFY/dp/B01M6UM8QD

https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-General-Lighting-E21266-Lightify/dp/B01LXPGXQ1/

https://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-Smart-Home-74099-Functions/dp/B01M3OK6J7

Ok. Maybe smarter to make the switch smart rather than the light bulbs. Do you have a separate switch on the wall that turns the light on/off today? Or is it one switch for both fan and light? I'll assume you do have a separate switch:

TP-Link dimmer if you don't have a controller.
GE Dimmer if you do.

If you don't have a separate switch, I have a different idea.

For the smart bulbs and wireless remote, any good solutions that dont look off. Only one I have seen is the Philips Hue solution:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016AEHU70/ref=twister_B01N6EHCL4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I am not in love with how these look attached to the wall.

I did see somewhere someone used a lutron remote to connect to the philips bulbs and then used a wall bracket that looked really good. Only issue, they no longer make those lutron remotes that work like this.

You seem to be doing it backwards. The dimmer on the wall should control the light. Heres a link to a great dimmer for that purpose.
Dimmer

The fan should be controlled by the 3 speed pull chain. You have three wires going to your fan. White is neutral, black is for the fan, blue is for the light.

Yeah, your thinking of it wrong. Just get a switch like a Kasa dimmer wall switch. That will give you voice control for on/off and dimmer to different percentage amounts. I use both, but in diff places in the house. They aren’t the cheapest, but sure works great when your wife wants the two dinning room chandeliers each with 8 candle bulbs to be able to dim.

On sale for $34.99 now.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-HS220-Dimmer-Switch-1-Pack/dp/B079775ZZQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=kasa+dimmer+switch&qid=1568226846&s=gateway&sprefix=kasa+dimmer+&sr=8-3

But Diva and Maestro are both Decora, right? Both models look so similar to me, I don't even really see an aesthetics difference!

We're redoing all of our wall switches -- many to Caseta dimmers, so I just want whichever matches best with that (and is cheaper).

It's so weird how the pricing is on Amazon. For example:

• Diva with wallplate is $23.
  
• Diva without wallplate is $28.
  
• Diva 3-pack is $60.
  
• Maestro is $24.
  
  So at the cheapest price points: Diva for $20 (in the 3-pack) vs Maestro for $24. Since I won't need to add on remotes or anything in the future, sounds like Diva is the way to go.

Rewired a majority of the main level of our 50 year old house with smart switches.

Used the GE Z-Wave switch for anywhere that we didn't have a three way switch.

And for those three way switches we used the Zooz Z-Wave switch. It was pretty sweet as you can only replace the first switch in your three way setup with the smart switch and re-use your regular dumb switches for the other switches. Once it installed the dumb switch will toggle the relay inside the smart switch -- very cool.

You can use the Lutron Caseta for 3 way switches or more. Install the full Lutron Caseta switch in one box, and use remotes for the other boxes. You can put another switch anywhere, even if there isn't wiring there.

Lutron Caseta Wireless In-Wall Dimmer, 600/150-Watt, Single Pole, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BazDyb4YRKZ8B

Remote with wall bracket
Lutron PJ2-WALL-WH-L01 Pico Remote Control with Wall Mounting Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JR202JQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ObzDybQ8C594T

You need the hub as well

Hub, 1 switch, and 1 remote
Lutron P-BDG-PKG1W Caseta Wireless Dimmer Kit with Smart Bridge for Amazon Alexa and Selected Models, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kdzDybXVZ4ZGM

They sell the wall brackets seperate as well
Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nfzDybQX74B01

Basically you can get a 2way solution for $100, and add a 3rd switch for $20

Yup! I don't worry so much now since the LED's use, what, 1/10th to power?

FYI - I got some Lutron Maestro dimmers like these which are very nice. We use them all the time. We had to adjust the levels on the switch to allow proper dimming for the LEDs, but it was easy, just follow the directions.

The only reason I see to do a switched outlet next to the bed is for a lamp. You could make it "smart" by either doing switched outlet like this or do a plug in module like this. You could then use your phone or a z-wave keypad/switch to control the outlet.

To use Z-Wave you would need a controller. If you're into DIY programming Home Assistant is the way to go. There are off the shelf controllers like Vera that do this without major programming.

If you're getting into switched outlets and switches i'd recommend going with something not WiFi, as you don't want to clog up your network.

They look like generic lamp z-wave modules for a smart home system like SmartThings. Because they plug in to an outlet they act as a repeater for other parts of the system that run on batteries like door/window sensors, smoke detectors and whatnot. They probably plug a lamp into the timer when it isnt rented to make it look occupied, and move it to a regular location for rent days rather than messing with the programming every time.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Appliance-12719/dp/B00PYMM7E6/

These are great, simple systems. You can order additional bulbs and pair them to a single switch (up to 10 bulbs).

We have plaster walls in our living room and wanted dimmable lights without having to pull new wires. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-455386-Hue-Wireless-Dimming/dp/B016AEHU70/

Lutron makes some of the best dimmers out there. Can't hurt to try a current spec Maestro 153 digital dimmer made for LEDs. I've put about 10 of these in recently and they've worked with cheapie Commerical Electric LEDs from home depot (NEVER EVER BUY THOSE LEDS, BTW), Lithonia, GE, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MACL-153M-WH-Maestro-150-Watt-Multi-Location/dp/B008X3CHM0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1466452719&sr=1-1&keywords=maestro+153


If those bulbs don't work with that dimmer, they are pretty crappy as Lutron is pretty much where it's at for non-home automation switchgear. Home Depot will take back an open dimmer if you don't like it, so it's pretty low risk.

Also, if you get the Maestro, it has all kinds of programming ability that is not talked about in the basic installation guide in the package. You can set max brightness, min brightness (useful if the LEDs blink at low power), fade on time, fade off time, etc.

http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/048459.pdf

Assuming you're talking about on/off switches like this one - Yes, you can! I've done it in my house.

I've been told that it's against code to use a dimmer switch to control a wall outlet, but I haven't verified that for myself.

With the three-way outlet, you'll probably run into the same wiring issues as a three-way light (i.e. three-way dumb switches work differently from three-way smart switches) but generally there shouldn't be any problem. Just buy the appropriate accessory switch.

FYI, there are toggle-style zwave switches now. They look kinda funky, but I actually like mine quite a bit.

Well there are a few ways to go about this. It all depends on your level of expertise. Are you comfortable with electrical work? If not, it'd get messy. By wall switch do you mean a light switch or power outlet. If power outlet, there are products you can buy pretty cheaply.

If lightswitch, it means removing the fascia of the switch itself and adding an IR/RF (or whatever you like) receiver with a switch into the circuit itsef, drilling into the fascia of the switch and housing the receiver so that the sensor can receive the signal.

The simpler option is to install [One of these] (http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MIR-600THW-WH-600-Watt-Infrared-Receiver/dp/B000JJYJMM)

I may have misdirected you on the relay part... what I meant was an actual relay Vs the Wink Relay.
https://smile.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Z-Wave-Convert-Enabled/dp/B00JWVNH4Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468877628&sr=8-2&keywords=zwave+relay

I can control two existing dumb switches with one device. So in my case I have the outside porch lights and porch outlets in the ceiling (for holiday lighting) controlled by the one relay. Saves space and money.

As for the Wink Relay, I could see how it would help, I just don't have the right setup for it. Most of my boxes where it would make sense are 3 gang or more.

I have a couple switches depending on the config.

for the foyer chandelier, the switches are still toggle and it is a three way switch. So I used the GE Zwave with add-on switch to help it blend in a bit.

Dimmer switch - https://smile.amazon.com/GE-12729-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B00PYMGS3C/ref=pd_sim_60_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51mGs2T1eYL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL320_SR164%2C320_&psc=1&refRID=GB18YZVF9J9DR1F95J6W

Add-on switch - https://smile.amazon.com/GE-12728-Wireless-Bluetooth-Connected/dp/B00PYMGYY0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468877971

For the single pole switches I used the Leviton Zwave switches

Dimmer - https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-DZMX1-1BZ-Controls-Capable-Universal/dp/B01GONGX3O/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1468878067

Regular Switch - https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-DZS15-1LZ-Decora-Controls-Capable/dp/B00LEWQYHG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_60_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31bJcKzR1ML&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=3RGMQDRFX87WN0GFGVB5

There are cheaper alternatives out there, I just used these cause I had gift cards and were located locally so I could return them if there was an issue.

Edit: spelling and words

TVs are not the only devices you can control with an IR blaster in a phone.

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MIR-600THW-WH-600-Watt-Infrared-Receiver/dp/B000JJYJMM

I'm sure there are a lot more devices than this using IR, but I use these in my house and I love being able to adjust the lights from my couch or bed, from my phone or tablet.

I can confirm that the Z-Wave GE 45603 plug-in appliance module works with the Wink hub.

I have on/off control, but the on/off status is not reflected correctly in the app.

I paired it with the Wink hub not using the "Add a product" function, but rather by selecting the Hub from the Home screen, then by hitting the "..." button in the top right, then "<my hub name>", then "Z-Wave Controls", then "INCLUSION MODE", then I hit the physical button on the front of the plug-in module and then got a green light on the hub to indicate successful pairing.

Plug for anywhere you sleep. After a power outage, bulbs will come back on full strength (they think you just flipped the wall switch on). I have 2 of these and love them. In my kitchen I have just bulbs though.

I just set up something similar to automate watering of some trees we just planted that are on a drip line hooked up to a spigot. I used one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVQFTHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fbXdBbJZ06AT0

Plugged into one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAO4B9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-dXdBb8ZM1Q55

Works great and no batteries. Ends up to be about the same price.

Edit: this is plumbed inside my house. Pretty sure neither of these products are rated for outdoor use.

Yes, it helps. You could just as well plug something like this into an outlet. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JFF4RG4/ref=pd_lpo_60_lp_t_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=785TVZQTG3NA6RMN08QY

And then plug a dumb power strip into the outlet, and all of your lights into the power strip. On/off/dim would be conrolled by the smart outlet and feed to everything else. Note however, the limitations on wattage, 100w for CFL/LED 300w for incandescents. If you have 6 60w incandescent bulbs, it won't work.

Thats what I'm trying to get away from, more hubs. Half wish I went with a more expansive system like Insteon.

Reading the reviews on Amazon, sounds like only the older model works directly with the Hue hub, is that what you have?

I run a super budget setup as close to professional lighting as I can. Well it's budget in comparison to pro set ups.

I start with one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014H2P89O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_wSnezbPMKMHMZ

It's dimmable so I can adust the brightness for any time of day and turn it off without messing around with switches.

I plug that into this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HX2EVPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_TVnezbVVQ3QQB

Well in reality I have a small desk lamp with a clip on it. It attaches to my monitor stand. But we'll get what ever lamp work for you.

Then I bought this soft box. Modified it slightly (just cut it open a little)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENSKUUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_eYnezbNZ9D1XR

Then bam. Simple and adjustable set up for my setup. I can make the light as bright or dull as required by the remaining room lighting.

Go for a larger softbox if you have room. I don't as I have all my monitors on a 2x2 stand!

(Not referral links)

The Diva C.L can dim anything.. you're fine.

I hope you enjoy your lighting.

If you want digital dimming:

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Incandescent-Single-Pole-Multi-Location-MACL-153M-WH/dp/B008X3CHM0

SYLVANIA SMART+ ZigBee Indoor Smart Plug.

I was able to add them to my system through the native Hue app, using the 6-character serial number printed on the switch, and they work perfectly.

Lutron makes a fan and light dimmer in one switch, it's not smart but it is awesome

I use my Hue bulbs almost exclusively in the numerous lamps we have around our house. I got so tired of having to walk around to each lamp to switch it on (first world problem). Now, I just have one of the Hue dimmer switches in each room which turn on all lamp lights for that room.

Yes, you have to leave the lamp's switch in the on position, and yes, it can get annoying when guests visit and don't know to use the Hue switch. The light acts like a normal bulb in that it'll go on a off with the lamp's switch, but Hue dimmer switch will only work when lamp's switch is in the "on" position.

I've enjoyed it a lot, especially since the Hue dimmer switches are magnetized to their mounting plate and can be used remotely, say from bed or the couch.

Thank you ! I just checked it out. However, my ceiling fans do not have a remote :(. So, not sure if this would work?

*Edit: I am looking for something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Incandescent-Single-Pole-MACL-LFQ-WH/dp/B077XDB8FV/ref=sr_1_5?crid=29L0F0FBBZJSZ&keywords=lutron+smart+fan+speed+control&qid=1571137717&s=hi&sprefix=LUTRON+smart+fa%2Ctools%2C436&sr=1-5

But, a smart switch that can be controlled via Alexa / Google.

I use this one, it's super simple and easy to use... http://www.amazon.com/GE-45603-Technology-Fluorescent-Appliance/dp/B0013V58HU

I would look into getting a zwave plug-in outlet like this that you could place half way in between to function as a repeater. This options is good because if you get more permanent zwave devices that can fill this gap in the future you can easily move this outlet and use in other places.

Try TP-Link. About $ 28 as well but very good and compatible with just about everything. Of course the dimmer is a bit more expensive.

​

Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZV35QU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079775ZZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

The user guide and other PDFs are in the description.

​

I've had 3 regular switches and 1 dimmer installed for about 2 months now.

Just to add to this:

I'm leaning toward the Lutron Smart Bridge for price/lutron/homekit:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPW67ZM

But I don't see a Lutron garage door opener. It sounds like the Lutron Smart Bridge supports Z-Wave, so would I just have to find a z-wave garage door control? Nevermind. It sounds like it doesn't support Z-Wave.

This comment was really helpful, but is 8 months old, and I know a lot can change in 8 months. So... Any reason

Do you use SmartThings? I ran into the same scenario with as you with the freezer/garage GFCI. I run this automation to ping a zigbee outlet to make sure it is running.

Sylvania Smart Home 72922 Sylvania LIGHTIFY Smart Plug, 1 Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1me5CbY46XR1S

https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-device-monitor-get-notified-if-devices-stop-reporting/41141

I used this for an outlet most recemtly:
GoControl WO15Z-1 Z-Wave Single Wall Outlet, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFK1YRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WW8iybATX7XG4

This is the plug in lamp dimmer module
GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Control, Z-Wave, Plug-In, White, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMM7E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2X8iybCTVJ88R

This is the regular switch... Notice this is a "regular" style but you can find it in paddle as well.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Smart Toggle Switch, In-Wall, White, 12727 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d08iybB4CY6HZ

This Zigbee switch should be compatible with the Hue bridge, but I can’t personally vouch for that as I don’t own any of these.

Here’s a helpful Amazon review for it, “After experimenting with adding this plug to my Philips Hue system, I finally figured out how to add it without any trouble. I held down the power button while inserting the plug into a wall socket. I kept the button held down for about 6 seconds and then heard a ‘click’ sound. I was then able to find the light with the iConnectHue app’s ‘Search’ feature. It could probably also be found this way with the Philips app, but I didn’t try that.”

The switch is a standard light switch. With HA switches you have to make sure they are fan compatible, but many are. This one is the one I used for 75% of my switches, whether light or fan.

You'll have to connect separate switches for the motor and the light. This may require installation of a larger wall switch electrical box (e.g. if you have a 1-Gang box, replace it with a 2-Gang box) and/or
running additional electrical wire to the fan from the wall box.

I've only seen two options for controlling fan motors: the GE 12730 or the Leviton VRF01-1LZ. There are a bunch of options for the light, but the HomeSeer HS-WD100+ seems to be the current favorite.

I have a couple of the Leviton Decora Z-wave Plus smart plugs. I originally bought them to operate my Xmas lights (indoor and outdoor), but have since repurposed them to operate a fish tank light and a lamp in my daughters bedroom. They've been flawless, and with the Xmas season soon upon us again I'm likely going to buy a couple more.

Well, I have this one which I really like. I just now noticed that Amazon doesn't sell it anymore and I have no idea why. I paid around $30 for it. It has good reviews.

Why not just use a normal z-wave outlet switch like this guy:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Appliance-12719/dp/B0013V58HU/ref=sr_1_2?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1483521194&sr=1-2&keywords=z-wave+outlet

or

https://www.amazon.com/Insteon-Smart-Works-Amazon-Alexa/dp/B00G5R6S9O/ref=sr_1_4?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1483521251&sr=1-4&keywords=insteon+switch

My insteon switch even detects when I use the lamp on off switch itself after a couple of clicks, so turning it on or off again from the app still works. It's pretty uncanny.

If had good luck with this one.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Module-Control-12718/dp/B00PYMM7E6/

I'm guessing that you will need to wait for it to "boot up/attach to the network" if you use the switch.

A hub setup sounds like overkill for a dorm room... I would consider returning what you have now, and instead getting one of these kits. I'm pretty sure you can add a few other bulbs to it later too - no hub required - bulbs just sync to the dimmer switch.
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-455394-Wireless-Dimmer-Generation/dp/B014H2P89O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483494943&sr=8-1&keywords=hue+dimmer+kit

The Leviton Homekit switch is 3 way capable: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DH6HD-1BZ-Decora-Smart-Dimmer/dp/B06XKC66HD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509827139&sr=8-1&keywords=leviton+homekit+dimmer

The iDevices Homekit switch is also 3 way capable:

https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Dimmer-Switch-Required-HomeKit/dp/B0743Q7VCL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1509827086&sr=8-1-spons&ppw=fresh&keywords=idevices+dimmer+switch

If you can find a compatible hue bulb, you could get one of these and that would probably be your cheapest route. It can control up to 10 hue lights without a bridge, depending on what kind of fixture you have and how many individual bulbs would be used.

you could even wire nut the two wires that currently go to the switch to make the outlet and the light always on and then put a blank wall plate over the gang box and use the adhesive on the back of the hue switch over that. That way it would look very clean and still be able to be used like you would normally be used to using the switch.

Lutron just announced support for Smartthings. However, you'll need the Lutron Caseta Bridge because Smartthings doesn't have a ClearConnect radio (the radio for Caseta switches). The Wink hub has a ClearConnect radio, so if you go that route, you won't need the Lutron Smart Bridge.

It’s also possible to do with a zigbee plug such as

Sylvania Smart Home 72922 Sylvania LIGHTIFY Smart Plug, 1 Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mFh9BbDQ3RJ4N

It shows up as a light on the Philips hue bridge.

Well, I was talking to a friend and a wireless dimmer switch + light bulbs (Phillips Hue) is gonna cost $30-$40
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-455394-Wireless-Dimmer-Generation/dp/B014H2P89O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495478231&sr=8-1&keywords=Philips+455394+Hue+wireless

And plus an overhead might come out to $100 or so. But I'm not sure if it'll give enough lighting in the room given the length of the room. THoughts?

I have an LED chandelier in the dining room I control with a smart switch dimmer that supports HomeKit (Siri):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XKC66HD

I would install generic Z-wave smart switches in all the rooms like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=psdc_6291359011_t2_B01M1AHC3R

​

That way all you need is a SmartThings hub and all the lighting in your house will be smart lights, ready to be controlled with Alexa or Google Home.

​

When you sell the home, just unpair the switches from your SmartThings hub (or whatever other hub) and the next owner can pair them with their hub when they move in. You could use Wifi switches but I find those are harder to setup for the next owner, especially when there are many of them throughout the entire house

I have these with LEDs and their great, you can even program them: Lutron MACL-153M-WH Maestro 150-Watt Multi-Location CFL/LED Digital Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008X3CHM0/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_cbWkub03B9HK3

I'd recommend the leviton (you'll need a white wire (neutral)): Leviton DH6HD-1BZ 600W Decora Smart Dimmer, Works with Apple HomeKit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKC66HD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QAXIBb82W0NGW

No hub or bridge needed. Just wifi.

They also have a non dimming one as well.

Smart switch is in fact the solution. I'm using this Leviton to do exactly what you described.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ0WVKH/ref=sr_ob_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492107608&sr=8-1

Well damn....pays to keep reading.

I was here

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=twister_B07BC89LDF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

where they say "For Halogen and Incandescent bulbs - not compatible with LED and CFL bulbs. For LED and CFL bulbs, see GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer Switch 14294."

I apparently stopping reading at the first sentence. Oops!

You'd still also need to by the wink hub to get it to work with your smartphone.

> http://m.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-300-Watt-100-Watt-Plug-In-Lamp-Dimmer-with-Pico-Remote-Control-Kit-White-P-PKG1P-WH-D/205365529

Belkin's WeMo line has a few options that work via WiFi:

• If your lamp plugs in you could use this module:
  http://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Electronics-Anywhere-Automation-Smartphones/dp/B00BB2MMNE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411318585&sr=8-2&keywords=Wemo
  
  
• If your lamps are connected to a wall switch you could use this:
  http://www.amazon.com/WeMo-Control-Anywhere-Automation-Smartphones/dp/B00DGEGJ02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411318659&sr=8-1&keywords=Wemo
  
  
  
  
• Another option is if your lamp is on a switch and your phone has an IR Blaster you can use this cheaper Lutron option:
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MIR-600THW-WH-600-Watt-Infrared-Receiver/dp/B000JJYJMM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411318550&sr=8-1&keywords=Lutron+Remote+Light+Switch
  
  The last option is what's in my bedroom and my wife thought it was stupid at first, but it's one of the nicest things in the world not having to turn off the light and then fumble your way to bed in the dark.

Dimmer switch for the ceiling fan was one of my favs so far.

I used this, works great

Lutron Maestro Fan Control and... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077XDB8FV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I use these in a 3-way configuration but the instruction manual had configurations up to 6-way I believe.

Leviton DZ15S-1BZ Decora Smart... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ0WVKH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Paired with:

Leviton DD0SR-DLZ Dual Voltage 120/277VAC Decora Digital/Decora Smart Matching Switch Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AFU1JTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_se6jDb6S0K3JB

GE Link still cost too much and I would be getting the Philips Led lights for $2 each from Home Depot. I've been looking for a good z-wave toggle switch that can also dim but haven't found any good ones.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12729/dp/B00PYMGS3C/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479140200&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=GE%2Bz-wave%2Bdimmer%2Bswitch%2Btoggle&th=1

I found this switch and wanted to know if I could use this with my lights and fans. I know it will most likely work with my lights but will it be able to control the speed of my fan through the dimming feature on this switch?

It's not hubless, but I'm using this ge zwave switch https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGS3C/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1485394880&sr=1-1&keywords=ge%2Bdimmer%2Bzwave&th=1

This plus the add on switch https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGYY0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1485394880&sr=1-1&keywords=ge%2Bdimmer%2Bzwave&th=1 works very well for me.

Can you provide a link to the product on Amazon? I don't see any Sylvania smart wall plugs in the "simple setup" list.

edit: nevermind, I see it now, I'm just blind. That should definitely work with Echo Plus.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/

Dammit, wish I thought of that and not wasted money on this stupid thing.

Well I ran into this while looking.. i present you the HS220 (not yet available)

TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, Dimmer, No Hub Required, Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant (HS220) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B079775ZZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E5zPAbNE49M44

You'd need a separate hub. The Hue hub is Zigbee only, no Z-wave. Or you could do more Hue bulbs and use Hue dimmer switches:

http://www2.meethue.com/en-us/productdetail/philips-hue-dimmer-switch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016AEHU70

The Hue switches are cheaper than the GE z- wave ones. But if you plan on adding other HA devices besides lights later on, you'll need a hub anyway, so you might wanna make sure that whatever hub you think you would get will still work with the Hue dimmer switches if you do that for now.

I would not use bulbs unless you want some sort of multicolor control. Plugin modules are a much better idea and are cheaper overall.

Ex:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Appliance-12719/dp/B0013V58HU

You can even get one that measures power consumption:
http://aeotec.com/z-wave-plug-in-switch

Since you already have SmartThings, why don’t you just get a zwave switch? Such as this one here
Honeywell Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Dimmer Switch, In-Wall Paddle, Interchangeable White & Almond | Built-In Repeater & Range Extender | ZWave Hub Required - SmartThings, Wink, Alexa Compatible, 39351 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3LXZJ9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JDdADb3VYWN4Z

Zwave is far more reliable than Wi-Fi, I haven’t tested Lutron but I assume Lutron uses wi-if. Z-wave is a low power frequency making the device smoother.

And if you want extra functionality choose this:


HomeSeer HS-WD200+ Z-Wave Plus Scene-Capable Smart Dimmer Switch w/RGB LED indicators | Built-in Repeater Range Extender | Works with Alexa, Google Home & IFTTT (Hub Required) | Works With SmartThings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079F38TPF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bGdADbZH2YNTP


This switch can use of its leds to show the status of a door, light, garage door, lock etc.

Hey! Get a WiFi bulb! Like a hue and switch pair (you won't need the hub for that) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016AEHU70

I use the GE lighting module for this purpose: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013V58HU/

It's $35 US (in the US), and it has a Zwave controlled outlet plus a non controlled outlet on it. For an extra 5, there is a Dimmable version as well. It can handle up to 600 watts. I've got two of them in my house now, and they've worked flawlessly for quite a while.

GE makes a Toggle Dimmer Switch that looks similar to normal light switches: https://www.amazon.co.uk/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12729/dp/B00PYMGS3C They also make a non-dimmer version as well.

It doesn't move like the regular switch (momentary up or down) and stays in the middle. The toggle is also a little pointier than a normal switch as well if that matters.

Is there an advantage to this over Leviton’s Decora Smart Dimmer that I’m missing? It’s half the price of iDevice’s offering.

Dimmer

Dimmer Add-On

Switch

Switch Add-On

Home Depot Link

The sale at Home Depot right now is really good for them. I used camelcamelcamel and just waited for a price drop on Amazon to buy them all at once. They seem to fluctuate in price quite often.

Why are you using expensive philips hue light bulbs? An LED BR30 in Warm White would work just fine.

Why not just use something less expensive and install a single dimming light switch

I have both of these: GE 12727 (no dimming) & GE 12729 (dimming). They require a Z-Wave hub (I'm using SmartThings 2.0) to integrate with Alexa. The switch + hub + Echo all pair and work together wonderfully.

EDIT: Also no faceplate change needed.
2nd EDIT: You should really be asking this on /r/HomeAutomation instead.

Leviton DZ15S-1BZ Decora Smart Z-Wave Plus On/Off Wall Switch https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01MZ0WVKH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4fs0CbYMVYCF0

This is the exact one I purchased

Leviton makes some that don’t need a hub: Leviton DH6HD-1BZ 600W Decora Smart Dimmer, Works with Apple HomeKit

I use a very lite home automation controller
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007005364/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1419693424&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

With an appliance module that has a power strip connected to it. Turning the appliance module on and off using the vera plugins for tasker will turn the Chromecast and TV on by activating the power strip which they are plugged into.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013V58HU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1419693510&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Not all TVs work this way. You can test to see if your TV will work by turning the TV on and unplugging it from the wall and plugging it back in. If it turns back on, your TV can do this. If it does not turn back on without you hitting the power button on the TV, you'll have to find another solution.

I entered to amazon thru US VPN and its shows same things.

How didn't you found?

1. Hub + 4 bulbs for $85.
   
2. Hub + 2 bulbs ($50) and 4 bulbs ($42) = Hub + 6 bulbs for $92
   
3. Hub + 2 bulbs ($50) and Dimmer Switch + 1 bulb ($30) = Hub + 3 bulbs + Switch for $80 (this is what here costs $100)

This is what I have at my house. It is an on/off switch with a little dimmer rocker and indicator lights that do stay on when you turn the light off. The indicator lights will get very dim when the light is switched off, and are brighter when you turn the light on

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008X3CHM0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466895048&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=lutron+led+dimmer&dpPl=1&dpID=51aViAG9viL&ref=plSrch

Don't mean to hijack but I see this as relevant, if I purchased this kit which states it's homekit enabled (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPW6824/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

and this switch which has no mention of homekit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJY0S4G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3TX4YUK2VIRSQ)

Will the seperate switch work with the hub and all switches would then be homekit compatible? Thanks heaps if you are able to confirm this

Cheapest that I can find these for is around $50. That seems like a lot when I compare to the hue switches. Why are they so much more?
e.g. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016AEHU70/

como o OP não instituiu limite de custos e, sonhando que terei esse dinheiro, certamente gostaria de:

• smart home (controle de temperatura, de som, de luz, de segurança, etc);
  
• um dimmer porreta como esse
  
• um cômodo para trabalhos manuais (marcenaria, eletrônica, etc) equipadíssimo com ferramentas e afins;
  
• todos os banheiros com essa privada e as suítes com banheira;
  
• sala de tv/jogos (com ótima e grande tv, sistema de som e os consoles);
  
• sala de trabalho bem equipada e livre de distração;
  
• uma edícula com todas as tecnologias listadas e com acessibilidade (pensando no futuro da velhice dos pais);
  
  gostei muito das sugestões do u/gustavohw (cabeamento, central-hub), do u/Caponredondo (coletor pluvial, painel solar e bunker)
  
  fora isso, a parte estética e funcional ganharia grande impacto na concepção da casa e renderia uma intensa pequisa mas nada que um bom trabalho conjunto entre profissionais de arquitetura e projetista não garantam – felizmente sou casado com uma ótima projetista!

Leviton has a 3 way switch solution. You need either of their 600W or 1000W “master” switch, along with a less expensive switch remote that is installed in the second location:

One of these two:
600W: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DH6HD-1BZ-Decora-Dimmer-HomeKit/dp/B06XKC66HD
OR
1000W: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DH1KD-1BZ-Decora-Dimmer-HomeKit/dp/B06XK2BL57

Plus one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DD0SR-DLZ-Voltage-Digital-Matching/dp/B01AFU1JTK

Lutron Maestro Fan Control and Light Dimmer for dimmable LEDs, Incandescent and Halogen, Single-Pole, MACL-LFQ-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077XDB8FV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AWl2Bb31HVJT7

Then you can get a slave switch for the other side of the room to 3 way the lights.

You're going to have to pull an extra switch leg for the new lights though

I use a combination of lutron caseta and TP-Link smart switches. The remote is called a peco remote. It doesn't look like your typical toggle switch though.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PJ2-WALL-WH-L01-Remote-Control-Mounting/dp/B00JR202JQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1506434287&sr=8-4&keywords=pico+remote

A project that controls mains voltages is not a beginner project. Even more so when it's to be hardwired into your home wiring. Does your jurisdiction / homeowner's insurance allow you to perform rewiring or to install non-certified electrical equipment?

The farthest I'd go is to install suitable home automation equipment or IR or RF light switches, and then interface with them via your Arduino. They still must be installed in accordance with your local electrical code (which may, in fact, state that non-professional homeowners cannot perform electrical work themselves).

Seems like maybe the place to ask this, anyone know how to increase the brightness of one of these? I've gone through the manual, and no matter what I do, the voltage on the output maxes at 110v. Is there no way to "bypass" the dimming?

I have a TP-Link Smart plug that I don't use.

Shortly after I bought it, I replaced it with a SYLVANIA Smart+ plug because you can set those plugs up to show up as lights and work with the Hue apps.

I can turn everything off with Google Home without IFTTT involved at all.

Not exactly what you're looking for, but maybe it is an option for you.

Here are some.

http://www.smarthome.com/_/Dimmers_Lighting_Appliance_Control/Dimmers_Wall_Switches_Keypads_Touchscreens/Infrared_Standard_Consumer_Electronics/_/z/1QV/24T/nav.aspx


Here's one on amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MIR-600THW-WH-600-Watt-Infrared-Receiver/dp/B000JJYJMM

The newer ones are Z-Wave+, the older ones are just Z-Wave. I run the Leviton Decoras (Z-Wave+) for switches & dimmers. I've added a few of the new GE Fan Controllers, but those have had a rough time being detected correctly by OZCP / HASS.

They sell dimmer switches and they have a bundle deal. They also work with Amazon Alexa. Right now I'm just using my phone and like you implied it's kinda bothersome but I think I'm going to invest in some of the dimmers or an Echo Dot

You can get a gen 1 hub and then use any other gen bulbs with it.

The white starter kit comes with two white bulbs and a hub, for $70.

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-White-Starter-light-bridge/dp/B014H2OZAC


This kit comes with a switch and one bulb for $40. You wont have voice controls, but you can connect up to 10 bulbs to it and buy a hub later if you want more lights/more control.

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-455394-Wireless-Dimmer-Generation/dp/B014H2P89O

I haven't used that, i have a few of these, i can confirm they work well (with a zwave dongle), but no energy monitoring.

No problem - it's this one: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DZPA1-2BW-Decora-Outlet-Technology/dp/B01NAO4B9Z/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1527615028&sr=1-3&keywords=leviton+plug+in

I'd love to just replace a few of the wall outlets, but it's an old house without neutral wiring, so these things have to do.

No, this is an independent venting fan upstairs. It's connected to a standard 110v wifi plug and integrated with IFTTT for an IF Temp drops below 73, THAN SMARTTHINGS Switch to On.

I have the Lutron IR light switch. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JJYJMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.YGsxbEYB1VX8

If I were to buy a z-wave module such as this one, how would I communicate with it? Is there a monthly payment to someone or can my phone just talk to it? Also, is it as simple as plugging it into my outlet and it's set up?

You didn't mention a budget, so how about 5 z-wave modules controlled by a hub. You could manually change which lamps are on, or have it automatically switch based on programmed events.

I've got two of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V58HU/ref=psdc_6478741011_t1_B0013V1SRY

You really should get this product if you expect to dim LED loads.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008X3CHM0/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?qid=1452254198&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=lutron+maelstrom+led

any of them that are rated for LED?

Check this one.

this is literally in the description for the Monoprice plug-in dimmers:

"The dimmer uses the leading-edge phase-cut (TRIAC controlled) method of dimming and is suitable for use with resistive and inductive loads, which include incandescent and halogen lamps. It will work with some LED lights, but others won't work properly, even if from the same manufacturer. When using LED lighting, always make a mock-up of your project to test the compatibility of specific LED bulb models and the total load with this dimmer prior to installation."

I was previously told this would work but I haven't tried it myself - any thoughts?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGS3C/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl

Ge makes all varieties, toggle, decora, dimmer, rheostat, and just plain switches. If you're wanting a dimmer for this location, here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12729/dp/B00PYMGS3C/ref=sr_1_1

After reading some of the zooz reviews there, I can see their issues are across products. I'd stick with ge.

Lutron Casetta in wall switches and a smart Bridge would do what you need.

Here is the Caseta setup I have.

Should these not be compatible? I also should clarify that the effect is not so much a flicker, but rather a strobe, and it happens when I turn the lights on. It will continue strobing until I turn the lights off and back on, and after the 3rd or 4th try the lights will work and come on normally as they should.

• Amazon 2 Pack
  
• Amazon Dimmer Kit, includes a bulb

Only if that light is 12/24V or you then hook up a relay to switch 110V. There's the implication that this works for switching: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6UM8QD/ref=asc_df_B01M6UM8QD5413698/

Apparently the osram lightify stuff is branded as "sylvania" for US.
Amazon link
This should be the same but for 120V US outlets.

Cheapest I've found as of yet

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6UM8QD/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1DXN92KCKEQV4&psc=1

I was thinking to get this switch which uses z-wave -

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DZ15S-1BZ-Decora-Switch-Technology/dp/B01MZ0WVKH/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1517794593&sr=8-3

to connect to these outlets -

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DZR15-1RZ-Controls-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B01N6HT2YN/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1517795022&sr=1-5

I was just wondering if you use the wink hub to set this up, does it need the internet for it to continue working.

I have a raspberry pi with a USB ZWave stick to control my home, my plants are monitored with this sensor, and I control the lights and humidifier with a zwave controlled plug

Use this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-DZPA1-2BW-Decora-Outlet-Technology/dp/B01NAO4B9Z/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512011048&sr=8-1&keywords=leviton+zwave+plug

GE makes a high-load ZWave dimmer which doesn't require a neutral, though they say it's not for LED or CFL bulbs: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3

That model is the Z-Wave 300 series version, HERE is the Z-Wave Plus 500 Series updated model.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-dimmable-Incandescent-Single-Pole-MACL-LFQ-WH/dp/B077XDB8FV

price history

Many companies do this before Black Friday. They will raise it to its "normal" price and then on Black Friday it is back on "sale".

I have noticed other items on Amazon doing this too. For example: https://camelcamelcamel.com/Sylvania-Smart-Home-72922-LIGHTIFY/product/B01M6UM8QD?context=search

They were $14.99 and just before Black Friday and now the price is back up. I expect the price to drop to $14.99 again during Black Friday.

No on those ones it seems, but any Z-Wave ones will work. I have a couple of these https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Lighting-Control-Appliance-12719/dp/B0013V58HU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478553902&sr=8-1&keywords=z-wave+plug+in+switch

Given any thought to Lutron?

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-BDG-PKG2W-Wireless-Lighting-HomeKit-enabled/dp/B00XPW6824

I personally haven't used the system but I've heard nothing but good stuff from people who use it.

So I found this and it SHOULD work with the Smartthings Hub.

This is my first go at home automation so Im keeping my fingers crossed. I also ordered the Philips Hue starter kit. I think its stupid you need the Philips hub too but cest la vie

This Phillips Hue kit should work, no?

https://www.amazon.com/Philips-Hue-Installation-Free-Exclusive-Assistant/dp/B016AEHU70

Whatever you do, don't buy GE/Jasco switches. Google "jasco blue blink" for an example of how these switches like to die without any real reason for doing so.

​

As each of my Jasco switches dies, I'm replacing them with Leviton switches, this is the switch that's replacing my on/off switches.

I use a few of these to control power to lighthouses and hmd.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013V58HU

With home automation they are part of the "start up" process for my TV/receiver with the htpc always on. If you prefer a fail proof (so far for me) method and have a little extra to spend I'd say it's worth it.

/u/blueskies95 has your wiring answer but there is no need to give up on the dimmer. This Lutron dimmer will do the trick, and can be coupled with the 18 dollar companion dimmer if you want to use it from both switch locations.

You have 1 of 2 options for this, you can either go with a slide style dimmer, and install it one of the two 3-way locations on either side, and keep the remaining 2 switches as manual switches with no dimming capability.

Or you can go with a digital dimmer that you install at one location, with companion switches that you install at the other 2 locations, so that you can dim from any of your 3 locations. Doing it with the companion dimmers will potentially require you to change a couple of splices in 1 or 2 of the switch boxes, because they are not wired like normal 3-ways.

Yeah, this is possible. Just buy a z-wave plug (I use this one) and plug your AC into it. Turn your AC on. Then, whenever you turn the plug on via SmartThings, the AC turns on. If you turn the plug off, it cuts the AC's power, and the AC is off.

Really simple way to turn a dumb AC into a smart-ish AC.

Checking Amazon reviews on some devices however, there are people complaining about Wink compatibility such as with the Sylvania outlets and motion sensors.

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But it's also entirely possible it is user error.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXPGXQ1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#customerReviews


https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-ZigBee-Smart-SmartThings-Assistant/product-reviews/B01M6UM8QD/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar

Sorry, I should clarify. I don't have smart switches, I have dumb ones. They cut off power to the lights if I need them off in a case like this, and when you turn the power back on, Hue bulbs default to on.
I believe this is a setting option with LIFX.

I also have these with dumb bulbs and they are load sensing, so if I turn it off and then on again, it will provide power to the bulb, regardless of the commands it is/isn't receiving from my hub.

Hope this helps!

So I have lower profile cans I installed in my ceiling recently. They're probably a max 6" tall. I have these on a Lutron MACL-153M. I too was concerned with using LED bulbs with these digital dimmers. Searching Amazon brought me to the brand Great Eagle and their BR30 bulbs. All I can say is these work so well with this dimmer switch and they dim incredibly low with absolutely no humming or buzzing at all.