Reddit mentions: The best dish soap

Hi. Yes. I am very sorry your father has these allergies, but... be glad he got patch tested and knows the specific chemical substances he needs to avoid. Many people don't bother. Feel free to pm me at any time. Several of his allergies are going to be difficult to avoid. Ex. isothiazolinones are pretty much in all commercial cleaners and paints and are airborne. So he may get "mystery" reactions that are really just reactions from MCI/MI (abbreviation for isothiazolinones) in the store he was just in.

Just have his medications compounded. Yes, it's an added expense, but it's medically necessary.

Glycol is... insidious. Especially in food. You can pretty much count on it being in every processed food unless it says certified organic. It does not need to be listed either. It can hide in "natural ingredients" or not hide and all and just not be listed. It's in most dairy products like milk and ice cream, for example. And don't get me started on medications. Is he having a problem with polyester? It's a derivative of PEG (polyethylene glycol). Don't drink any beverage at all unless it's certified organic except for water. Unless you call the company/email the company to confirm just assume it's in the juice/soda/coffee. There are very very few juices/drinks that don't have it. Ground coffee. Flavored coffee... it's just in there. Oh, and especially any breads/bread products/cookies/baked goods. Hey! Good news though: Panera is a propylene glycol free company with their foods(you need to double check on their bottled juices though, I can't vouch for that).

BoP... all right. Listen. Focus on avoiding the things he touches for now, but BoP chemicals are in foods (naturally as well as in benzoate preservatives). So... vegetables/fruits may be tricky. If you find he's definitely avoiding things and not clearing up he may want to peek at the BoP foods. They are complicated.

Reddit is not the forum for learning about these allergies... although I'm happy to answer any questions. The place to do that is to join the "general ACD (allergic contact dermatitis) board" on FB, and the individual allergy boards. I'll list the ones that involve him.

Here is the main/general board: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1567785756868893/

Glycol allergy:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/527750807305657/
PG allergy:https://www.facebook.com/groups/240074313186664/

BoP allergy: https://www.facebook.com/groups/284324351616200/

Colophony (mixed in with the "shoe group" because it's most often seen there): https://www.facebook.com/groups/1194818737239955/
And a second: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1194818737239955/

There are a lot of methylisothiazolinone groups because it's a *ty chemical. Feel free to use the search bar and join whichever you want, or all of them. It just sucks.

Also... listen... this stuff becomes all very complicated. I'm a well-educated person with good research skills (librarian) and it took me the better part of a year to really get a handle on multiple multiple allergies like this. Be prepared. It is a life changing diagnosis.

I recommend "zero tolerance" for conventional products. If he lives with anyone they should also adopt his product use. This means do not clean anything (dishes, laundry, face, body, hair, house) with something normal you'd buy at the store. There is absolutely no way with his list of allergies you'll be able to find anything safe for him. MAYBE he can find something with formaldehyde as the preservative and fragrance free... but he's obviously prone to collecting allergies and that is NOT one he wants to add to his lineup.

This is a safe soap. Three ingredients. Olive oil, salt, water. My family and I use it for ALL of our cleansing needs. Face/body/hair. https://www.amazon.com/Kiss-My-Face-Soap-Olive/dp/B002LMQQ1C/ref=sr_1_6_s_it?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1523116505&sr=1-6&keywords=kiss+my+face+olive Also available at Whole Foods. ONLY the olive bar. He doesn't want to use the lavender one with BoP allergies. Or any botanical/flower. Or any fragrance (MCI/MI is hidden in fragrance also).

How does he feel about beards? My husband has one and he doesn't need shaving lotion. Which is good. Because I don't know what he'd do.

This is a safe dishwasher detergent: https://www.amazon.com/Ecover-Automatic-Dishwasher-Tablets-Fragrance-Free/dp/B0080L99GC/ref=sr_1_3_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1523116601&sr=1-3&keywords=ecos%2Bdishwasher%2Bdetergent&th=1 It's available at Whole Foods in non-tablet, just powder form.

This is a safe dish detergent (also good for hand washing): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5HGA9Y/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1_s_it?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3513574162&pd_rd_wg=bxfmc&pf_rd_r=0RTH0GV2S8CX8SV48A9R&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00J5HGA9Y&pd_rd_w=GSztQ&pf_rd_i=ecos+dishwasher+detergent&pd_rd_r=a350294f-1341-4bb1-9936-a0a5c5ccabe7&ie=UTF8&qid=1523116601&sr=1 NOT available at Whole Foods

For laundry: https://www.amazon.com/Mollys-Suds-Original-Laundry-Sensitive/dp/B00F8LE2TQ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1523116893&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=mollys+suds&psc=1&smid=A1FUPZWT4RJSOD

Other than putting dilute white vinegar in water, using baking soda to scrub, and possibly hydrogen peroxide, this is the only* safe cleaning product. It looks complicated and expensive. It's not. It also works fabulously. Comes out to be waaaay less a year than I was spending on conventional cleaners. It's all my cleaning lady uses. https://www.amazon.com/Force-Nature-Non-Toxic-All-Purpose-Deodorizer/dp/B071HLCLL9/ref=sr_1_2_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1523116665&sr=1-2&keywords=force+of+nature The company's website has coupons if you buy direct from them.

Does he need a moisturizing product? He should use medical grade white petrolatum or 100% emu oil from a reputable vendor (others can cut it in with other oils that aren't safe for him--he shouldn't use plant based oils because BoP). https://www.amazon.com/100-Montana-Emu-Ranch-Liquid/dp/B0026X5KCW/ref=sr_1_4_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1523116770&sr=1-4&keywords=emu+ranch

Edited for: in case it isn't clear "natural" "organic" (unless certified** organic) "hypoallergenic" etc. do not mean anything. Do not think the 7th generation or Honest Company items you see in Whole Foods or god forbid Mrs. Meyers (methylisothiazolinone preservative and of course his BoP allergy would be a problem) or anything like that is actually safe. Remember. They just want to sell their products to people who don't know any better. You could bottle 100% formaldehyde or 100% propylene glycol and label it "all natural hypoallergenic" and it would be fine.

I think this is a better deal kitchen soap wise: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FA1NV4/. Instead of 12oz for 7 dollars, its 6 25oz bottles for 20 bucks. 3 times the money, but 12.5 times the soap. Also, for dishwasher detergent, this is a better deal: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C72BXZK/. Instead of 20 count for 7$, it's 110 count for 20$.

Some stuff it just makes sense to try and get in bulk, because you get so, so, so much more.

Also, re milk. You don't have to get powdered milk. You also have the option to get UHT milk. UHT milk is milk that's been cooked at a high enough temperature that it becomes shelf stable. Just search for UHT milk and you'll find a tonne of brands and choices. Different fat percentages, sizes and so on. You can get a large carton, or they also make packs with a bunch of small cartons, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FX2IOQ/. I prefer that, because I don't use milk very often, so opening a small container each time works perfectly for me. You do however, have to stick the container in the fridge once you've opened it.

Also, if you have a tea strainer (or even if you don't, they're only a few bucks and worth it!), try and get loose leaf tea. You can get a lb of tea for around 10 bucks easy, and you can easily make a few hundred cups of tea. To make strong black tea, I use 4 grams of tea for every pot, and each pot gets me about 4 cups. A lb of tea is 453g, so...that works out really well. Even if you make individual cups instead of pots and use a couple grams per cup, you can easily get 200 cups out of a lb box. There's just no beating that with bags, even if you resuse them.

Here's 1lb of a green tea for 10 bucks: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SATIFA. And here's 1lb of Earl Grey for 8 bucks: http://www.amazon.com/Davidsons-Tea-Bulk-Earl-16-Ounce/

Thanks OP! I'd already created list and was about to post to food_pantry when I saw your post and you'd found cheaper options for a few things and that seriously rocks.

I start by washing all my glassware and utensils with 7th Generation dish soap. When I researched the process I read that you don’t want to use anti-bacterial soap because it can kill the active culture. I’ll link to the soap below. I will also use white distilled vinegar and wipe down the inside of the glassware.

After everything is clean I start filling my electric kettle from the tap. We have a Brita attachment on the sink to ensure the water is filtered. Depending on how much I am making will dictate how much water I have to heat up. Once the first run of water is boiling I will pour it into the clean jar and add a cup of plain old white refined sugar. I use a wooden spoon to stir until the sugar is dissolved.

Once I have all my hot water ready to go I will use Darjeeling Organic Black Tea (Link Below) and steep for about 10 minutes. Once the tea is steeped I put the lid on the jar and let it sit and cool. I always want it under 80 degrees so most of the time instead of checking it repeatedly I start the process at night and just let the tea sit overnight and cool.

In the morning or once the tea cooled to <80 degrees I will toss in the SCOBY and the starter liquid and put a paper towel over the top of the jar and secure it with butcher's twine. I have been brewing for a couple months now so I have a bunch of scobies and tea set aside in another jar always ready to go. Once everything is together I put the jar someplace dark and let it sit for 10 to 14 days.

My main formula works out like this 1 gallon water + 1 Cup Sugar + 2 Tablespoons of tea.

I have been experimenting with using brown sugar and longer steeping times and I am waiting on the results now. I will update the group if I notice anything substantially different.

That is pretty much process for the first fermentation. If anyone has any insight or advice I am always down for discussion.


https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Darjeeling-Organic-Black-Tea/dp/B014GLC2LS/ref=sr_1_6_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1484375588&sr=8-6&keywords=black%2Btea&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Seventh-Generation-Unscented-25-Ounce-Packaging/dp/B001FA1NTG/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1484376210&sr=8-1&keywords=7th%2Bgeneration%2Bdish%2Bsoap&th=1

Use gel dish soap like Dawn, Palmolive, etc. I get the generic store brand because I don't like paying for marketing and packaging.

If you can get it colorless and odorless, you have pretty much copied "glove wash" sold for US$3+ per ounce.

Just rinse with water if you didn't do much work during the game. Soak the gloves and do a deep-rub clean with soap when you play in mud.

Thanks for posting this! This is probably the best thing you can do to preserve a pair of gloves.

Good luck!

Didn't mean to come off as preachy, btw

Wow, I do a reddit search for Matfer Bourgeat looking to see if this exact question had been answered and here we are, you asked the same thing 20 minutes before me.

I'm running into the same issue with my 11 & 7/8" Carbon Steel pan from Matfer Bourgeat. I've been using Brillo pads which has been pretty successful, but painstaking. A lot of elbow grease is needed here - the coating covers both sides of the pan.

In addition to your question (is there a better way to do this), I'm wondering if I should season the outside/bottom of the pan as well, once I get the wax off. I'm planning to use the potato peel/salt/oil method, and would probably use the typical cast iron method in the oven for the bottom.

At the moment, the Brillo pads are working (slowly, but surely). I'm about to try some Barkeeper's Friend to see how that goes.

Update: Barkeeper's Friend with a rag works to get the stubborn film out of the corners of the pan, but it's not very useful for much else. Sort of at the same conclusion you are - I might hit this thing with some Easy Off and let it sit in a trashbag overnight.

Pure silver wouldn’t “rust” per se, but electroplated nickel steel (EPNS) items could.

So, we have display items from the 1800s at work, proper silver that has been hallmarked.

If there is a considerable amount of issues with an item, a soft toothbrush and a bit of elbow grease dipped in
silver polish cream will remove most of the patina (we like our silver shiny). To remove the additional polish that sticks into the nooks and crannies (the excess polish dries dull pink to be easily seen), dip the toothbrush into
silver dip
(different tubs for display and food service items!) and scrub off the dried up polish. Buff with a soft cloth (we use ripped up old cotton bed sheets as rags).

The use of gloves and a face mask is always greatly encouraged, especially the latter when you’re removing the dried polish, becomes a fine dust.

Food service items, we’ll silver dip in a tub (again different bottles for food and display), then immediately wash in running water. We may use a soft sponge to scrub it a bit. If there is a spec of rust through the EPNS, we’ll clean that off with a
Brillo Pad
very lightly; you will cause some fine micro scratches to the plating around the rust, but it’ll just remove a fine layer.

NOT TO BE USED ON DISPLAY ITEMS!

I’ve had a group of over zealous lads come through before and pour a bit of silver dip into a silver ice bucket from 1870s before, then leave it in the Silver Store. Since it wasn’t a piece that was regularly rotated for display, we didn’t realise that it was full with dip for the better part of a few months. Couldn’t smell it either, since the store smelled of polish. When we did find it, it was as expected, but with crystals everywhere. Turned a sludgy black too. The acid in the dip actually burned through the silver, so that was totally lost.

To remove the crystals, a screwdriver, hot water, and a few hours of chipping and scrubbing may have been involved. Externally the ice bucket is still display worthy, just don’t look inside.

Once the silver plate is lost, it’ll be just a base brassy yellow colour in that spot. I’ll try to find an example at work later.

We regularly dip our EPNS cutlery at least once or twice a week; after through washing (especially if egg yolk has been involved), open a jar and just dip the fork tines in, less than 2 seconds is enough, if you want to swirl it around you can too, until the tarnish is removed, then wash in running water.

Yeah, you want to make sure you get the dishwasher tabs and not use liquid dish soap that you use to clean dishes in the sink. Using dish soap, instead of something made specifically for dishwashers will cause the soap to create massive suds, which will overflow and make a giant mess.


There are also dishwasher gels and powder, powder is the cheapest but being a powder is generally seen as much less convenient, and if you get water in the box then gg. Gels are more popular than powder, less popular than the tabs.


Generally, I've always cleaned food debris or soaked food caked on dishes in the sink before putting them in the dishwasher. There are also certain items that are better to be hand-washed.

Cleaning:

I've gotten cleaning down to two products: Bar Keepers Friend and 7th Generation Powdered Dish Soap. These products are basically magic, if you allow them time to work. BKF works on things that are baked or burned in and for use on metal (except aluminium) and glass. Sprinkle BKF over the area to be cleaned, wet it until it's paste like, then walk away for 30 minutes or so. When you come back, re-wet it if it's not still wet, and use a paper towel to polish off the stain. Usually comes right up with very little elbow grease. Same principle applies to 7thGen. Fill your kettle/carboy/whatever with water and add about a tablespoon of powder per gallon of water. Let it sit overnight. I've yet to find grime that will stand up to it. It's magic works on a combination of what is basically oxyclean free and enzymatic cleaners. Much in the same way enzymes break up starch in malt to make it into sugar, these enzymes break up proteins and junk to release it from whatever is clinging to it. The only gotcha here is the enzymes have a shelf life, so you can't let it sit around forever. If you use it in other household cleaning, you can go through it at a fair pace and always have an opportunity to freshen up your supply.

Sanitation:

StarSan is clearly everyone's favorite sanitizer, but I do worry a bit about it's effectiveness over the long term with organisms building up resistance to it. I currently try to cycle in Saniclean every now and again, which has some of the same ingredient as StarSan, but uses a slightly different chemical to help keep the foam down while still sanitizing. I'd love to find out if someone has found another product as effective as these two that isn't iodine or chlorine based. In the mean time, to help keep things shaken up, I use heat where ever possible to add in an additional layer of sanitation. A pro brewer once told me cycling 180F water through your system for 15 minutes will kill just about anything you have to worry about. Seems solid and I like the fact it isn't an additional chemical.

Sterilization:

I only really use this for canning wort right now, but a pressure cooker is a nice thing to have. I've also been known to use tyndallization on items that might not quite make it through the pressure cooker. If anyone is regularly sterilizing things, I'd be interested in hearing what you're sterilizing, what method you're using (heat, steam, gas, ultrasonic, etc.), and why.

edit : Fixed the linking I think.

Instead of a wetting agent (which can be expensive), you can use a little dish detergent that dye and fragrance free such as this. You definitely need a final rinse then.

The problem I have with wetting agents is cost. You buy a small bottle for like $20.00. You use very little, so it should last "forever." But the stuff expires after a few years. I think the stuff will expire before you even get halfway through it. If you can get a bunch of friends together to buy a bottle and split ti 4 ways, that would be a good way to go.

There is one wetting agent I saw advertized that's used in labs and is an effective anti-fungal. Which would be good for old records. It's called Triton X-100. But it's close to $30.00 a bottle. And it's going to expire long before you use the bottle up.

This is a really rough month where I'm staying. We've got food stamps so we're OK there, but we could use a few household items.

Thank you!


Bleach
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FDX7YD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_NMzrzbDJ406DT

Dish soap
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UEXGV8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_QOzrzbBG6EZAJ

Toilet Paper
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FFJ2LXU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_WPzrzb53BE4J3

Dryer Sheets
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CQBGTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_DSzrzbHCS7KN7

EDIT: A friend was able to help us out AND I am starting a job next week so I hope to be OK here in the future.

Uncle Jon's makes one. I got a bar free, and also have the Declaration Rejuvenator (actually L&L because it's old), and the Uncle Jon's is just a good in my opinion.

There's also a German one that The Superior Shave sells.

Edit: TBH this one works just fine, too, and is super cheap and widely available.

I bought special foaming soap dispenser bottles on Amazon. I fill it halfway with water and halfway with Dawn gentle on hands formula. I tend to wash my hands a lot so I use the kitchen sink and my soap mix. Anything that's sitting in the sink gets a dose of water and soap. this stuff is so much gentler on your hands than the regular Dawn too.

Note that with the foaming bottles you can't put undiluted liquid soap in them, it's too thick so you have to dilute it. As a bonus you wind up using less soap.

Unfortunately Dawn changed their formula to include rose scent, and I am allergic to roses. Fortunately the Walmart version has no rose scent and works just as well.

I also use the foaming bottles in the bathroom. If you like Dr Bronner's soap you know you're supposed to dilute it. So I mix it with water in the bottles and use it in the shower and as hand soap.

Here's a sneak peek of /r/FuckCilantro using the top posts of all time!

#1: Oh look, a field of shit | 4 comments
#2: I'd say it tastes like shit, but honestly, the shit probably tastes better. | 4 comments
#3: Fuck cilantro! | 0 comments

----
^^I'm ^^a ^^bot, ^^beep ^^boop ^^| ^^Downvote ^^to ^^remove ^^| ^^Contact ^^me ^^| ^^Info ^^| ^^Opt-out

Their really isn't much to it, residue free and cost effective, 2 bottles for 10 bucks, I typically get some through Amazon, here's the exact one I've been using for years, http://www.amazon.com/Dawn-Ultra-Dishwashing-Liquid-Original/dp/B001XQ7LOS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373341739&sr=8-1&keywords=dawn+dish+soap

Shop owner here. Depends on your county's Health Department regulations but I don't know of any that only allow you to use Stermine. Most will let you use a tiny bit of bleach water as a sanitizer for dishes as well. The only thing is you have to have different test strips if using bleach instead of a sanitizer. Here's some other sterilizers I've found that are USDA certified so they should be accepted in your county

r/https://www.amazon.com/Bar-Maid-DIS-201-Dishwashing-Sanitizing/dp/B002TDTYEY/ref=sr_1_5_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1540655738&sr=1-5&keywords=sterilizer+tablets

r/https://www.amazon.com/Members-Mark-Commercial-Sanitizer-128/dp/B0787938GN/ref=sr_1_4_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1540655787&sr=1-4&keywords=sterilizer+tablets

Dishwashing Liquid to clean your guns with: https://www.amazon.ca/Thymes-VPO-155-Frasier-Dishwashing-Liquid/dp/B0140PREDG/

)

You're going to pay like a thousand bucks for that much bubble solution, plus shipping and handling. My advice would be to pick up an empty drum, a couple of buckets of liquid detergent, and a gallon of glycerin; and make it yourself in your back yard. You'd be looking at more like $250 plus shipping (particularly, you're going to save S&H on 400 pounds of water). There's lots of recipes online but you'd generally be looking at 1 part detergent to 6-8 parts water, and 1 part glycerin to 12-16 parts detergent.

This soap

Because I always forget to buy some at the store. So its nice to have a bottle. Awesomely Randomly Random

Thank you for the contest.

> Cleaning products.

I've been using this for a while and it's fantastic. "Tough on dirty dishes, not the hands that wash them. Seventh Generation Free & Clear Dish Liquid cuts through grease and powers away tough residue without the use of fragrances, dyes, phosphates, or triclosan. This hypoallergenic fragrance-free dish soap is dermatologist tested and made for sensitive skin."

It's known for cutting dishes with overnight dried-on food in just three minutes, the amazon reviews praise it as advanced technology in dishwashing. I can clean my hookah vases after they stink for days on end with just a drop and a shake. Best part is it doesn't cost any more than regular dawn ultra.

Another recipe some people use is lemon juice with baking soda, but I've never tried it.

Dawn is a dishwashing soap it can be found in most American supermarkets as well as Home Depot and Target.

The blue variety is the basic no frills original formula of Dawn. It is a dark indigo color.

To differentiate from other kinds with added scent and foaming action, I just call it "blue Dawn."

http://www.amazon.com/Dawn-Ultra-Dishwashing-Liquid-Original/dp/B001XQ7LOS

Probably too late but the Dawn soap is on Amazon, Dawn Dish Soap, Non-Concentrated... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002W3EEO6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Just got some for the dog and I've never seen so many fleas in one bath.

Thank you, but i'll leave my mistake

Go to a restaurant supply store and look for “Dawn Power Dissolver”. You can also get it from amazon but at twice the price.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PRACR7W/

Picture 1 is a pan I burned gravy on until it turned black. I took the picture right after adding the power dissolver.
https://i.imgur.com/bQR5pH6.jpg

Picture 2 is the pan after soaking for half an hour and then lightly scrubbing with an SOS pad.
https://i.imgur.com/eokhiut.jpg

I soaked for about an hour and then it came right off with the sos pad.

Guess we just got to wait until dawn to see the final results

http://www.amazon.com/Dawn-Ultra-Dishwashing-Liquid-Original/dp/B001XQ7LOS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348504867&sr=8-1&keywords=dish+soap

48 ounces for $11.

here m8

http://www.amazon.com/Binding-Isaac-Unholy-Edition-Wrath-Lamb/dp/B00CAPLK20/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1415125386&sr=8-3&keywords=binding+of+isaac

Μπάνιο με αυτό;

Dawn Power Dissolver is the only thing that gets brake dust off my Acura's metal wheels. A little pricey, but lasts a long time. My brake dust is black, not brown, though. I second the question of whether you also have rust.

I live in the US and it seems this is made in the UK? Would this be an equivalent here? https://www.amazon.com/Procter-Gamble-Dawn-Dissolver-Bottle/dp/B00PRACR7W/ref=pd_sbs_265_1/132-2835682-7921232?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00PRACR7W&pd_rd_r=e44cc81b-6e40-4ac8-942a-606693218949&pd_rd_w=cBNjR&pd_rd_wg=hDc6H&pf_rd_p=52b7592c-2dc9-4ac6-84d4-4bda6360045e&pf_rd_r=KWJ9ETQNMA51PZNETZV8&psc=1&refRID=KWJ9ETQNMA51PZNETZV8

There is a warning

I guess that myself, with many others, did not read the back label for dishwashing soap before putting it in the dishwasher. It says it, but I am not very smart.

• These are excellent for hard to get to dust spots, water removal and clogs
  
  
• Awesome is great but powerful for cleaning
  
  
• Murphy's Oil for wood
  
  
• Vinger and water fir windows
  
  
• Soft Scrub for toilets and sinks
  
  
• Brillo for crust
  
  
• Steel Wool for rust
  
  
• Also if caulking anything stuff with steel wool , mice hate steel wool and will avoid at all costs
  
  
• Coffee pots: add salt, ice, and lemon juice, mix until the ice melts and swirl, rinse when the pot freezes a bit

My 3776 is probably my most reliable pen. I can't think of a single problem I've had with it. But I bought it in a department store in Japan, so maybe the clerk at the stationary section adjusted it for me -- it was my first gold nib pen and my Japanese wasn't great.

If you're writing dry, try grabbing the shoulders & pulling the slit apart a bit. I prefer that to pressing the nib against something, as it doesn't change the angle of the nib - just the width of the slit.

If you don't want to mess with the nib: about 1/2 a drop of dishwashing soap in the converter will increase flow (use a toothpick to get sub-drop quantity)

You betta wrap that shit.

https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Wool-Soap-Pads-Original/dp/B007UGX644