Reddit mentions: The best dishwashig supplies

Hi. Yes. I am very sorry your father has these allergies, but... be glad he got patch tested and knows the specific chemical substances he needs to avoid. Many people don't bother. Feel free to pm me at any time. Several of his allergies are going to be difficult to avoid. Ex. isothiazolinones are pretty much in all commercial cleaners and paints and are airborne. So he may get "mystery" reactions that are really just reactions from MCI/MI (abbreviation for isothiazolinones) in the store he was just in.

Just have his medications compounded. Yes, it's an added expense, but it's medically necessary.

Glycol is... insidious. Especially in food. You can pretty much count on it being in every processed food unless it says certified organic. It does not need to be listed either. It can hide in "natural ingredients" or not hide and all and just not be listed. It's in most dairy products like milk and ice cream, for example. And don't get me started on medications. Is he having a problem with polyester? It's a derivative of PEG (polyethylene glycol). Don't drink any beverage at all unless it's certified organic except for water. Unless you call the company/email the company to confirm just assume it's in the juice/soda/coffee. There are very very few juices/drinks that don't have it. Ground coffee. Flavored coffee... it's just in there. Oh, and especially any breads/bread products/cookies/baked goods. Hey! Good news though: Panera is a propylene glycol free company with their foods(you need to double check on their bottled juices though, I can't vouch for that).

BoP... all right. Listen. Focus on avoiding the things he touches for now, but BoP chemicals are in foods (naturally as well as in benzoate preservatives). So... vegetables/fruits may be tricky. If you find he's definitely avoiding things and not clearing up he may want to peek at the BoP foods. They are complicated.

Reddit is not the forum for learning about these allergies... although I'm happy to answer any questions. The place to do that is to join the "general ACD (allergic contact dermatitis) board" on FB, and the individual allergy boards. I'll list the ones that involve him.

Here is the main/general board: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1567785756868893/

Glycol allergy:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/527750807305657/
PG allergy:https://www.facebook.com/groups/240074313186664/

BoP allergy: https://www.facebook.com/groups/284324351616200/

Colophony (mixed in with the "shoe group" because it's most often seen there): https://www.facebook.com/groups/1194818737239955/
And a second: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1194818737239955/

There are a lot of methylisothiazolinone groups because it's a *ty chemical. Feel free to use the search bar and join whichever you want, or all of them. It just sucks.

Also... listen... this stuff becomes all very complicated. I'm a well-educated person with good research skills (librarian) and it took me the better part of a year to really get a handle on multiple multiple allergies like this. Be prepared. It is a life changing diagnosis.

I recommend "zero tolerance" for conventional products. If he lives with anyone they should also adopt his product use. This means do not clean anything (dishes, laundry, face, body, hair, house) with something normal you'd buy at the store. There is absolutely no way with his list of allergies you'll be able to find anything safe for him. MAYBE he can find something with formaldehyde as the preservative and fragrance free... but he's obviously prone to collecting allergies and that is NOT one he wants to add to his lineup.

This is a safe soap. Three ingredients. Olive oil, salt, water. My family and I use it for ALL of our cleansing needs. Face/body/hair. https://www.amazon.com/Kiss-My-Face-Soap-Olive/dp/B002LMQQ1C/ref=sr_1_6_s_it?s=beauty&ie=UTF8&qid=1523116505&sr=1-6&keywords=kiss+my+face+olive Also available at Whole Foods. ONLY the olive bar. He doesn't want to use the lavender one with BoP allergies. Or any botanical/flower. Or any fragrance (MCI/MI is hidden in fragrance also).

How does he feel about beards? My husband has one and he doesn't need shaving lotion. Which is good. Because I don't know what he'd do.

This is a safe dishwasher detergent: https://www.amazon.com/Ecover-Automatic-Dishwasher-Tablets-Fragrance-Free/dp/B0080L99GC/ref=sr_1_3_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1523116601&sr=1-3&keywords=ecos%2Bdishwasher%2Bdetergent&th=1 It's available at Whole Foods in non-tablet, just powder form.

This is a safe dish detergent (also good for hand washing): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5HGA9Y/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1_s_it?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3513574162&pd_rd_wg=bxfmc&pf_rd_r=0RTH0GV2S8CX8SV48A9R&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00J5HGA9Y&pd_rd_w=GSztQ&pf_rd_i=ecos+dishwasher+detergent&pd_rd_r=a350294f-1341-4bb1-9936-a0a5c5ccabe7&ie=UTF8&qid=1523116601&sr=1 NOT available at Whole Foods

For laundry: https://www.amazon.com/Mollys-Suds-Original-Laundry-Sensitive/dp/B00F8LE2TQ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1523116893&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=mollys+suds&psc=1&smid=A1FUPZWT4RJSOD

Other than putting dilute white vinegar in water, using baking soda to scrub, and possibly hydrogen peroxide, this is the only* safe cleaning product. It looks complicated and expensive. It's not. It also works fabulously. Comes out to be waaaay less a year than I was spending on conventional cleaners. It's all my cleaning lady uses. https://www.amazon.com/Force-Nature-Non-Toxic-All-Purpose-Deodorizer/dp/B071HLCLL9/ref=sr_1_2_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1523116665&sr=1-2&keywords=force+of+nature The company's website has coupons if you buy direct from them.

Does he need a moisturizing product? He should use medical grade white petrolatum or 100% emu oil from a reputable vendor (others can cut it in with other oils that aren't safe for him--he shouldn't use plant based oils because BoP). https://www.amazon.com/100-Montana-Emu-Ranch-Liquid/dp/B0026X5KCW/ref=sr_1_4_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1523116770&sr=1-4&keywords=emu+ranch

Edited for: in case it isn't clear "natural" "organic" (unless certified** organic) "hypoallergenic" etc. do not mean anything. Do not think the 7th generation or Honest Company items you see in Whole Foods or god forbid Mrs. Meyers (methylisothiazolinone preservative and of course his BoP allergy would be a problem) or anything like that is actually safe. Remember. They just want to sell their products to people who don't know any better. You could bottle 100% formaldehyde or 100% propylene glycol and label it "all natural hypoallergenic" and it would be fine.

I'm not sure there are any perfect solutions - If there are I haven't found them yet.

But for dishes:

• Own fewer dishes. Even if you dirty all of them, the pile will be more manageable/less-intimidating. You could downsize a bit or go on the extreme end and have only 1 or 2 of each dish.
  
• Get a countertop dishwasher if you can. You can look for one used so it's not so expensive.
  
• Soak your dishes. You may not be able to get into cleaning them right after, but always at least put water in them. Otherwise, they will be harder to clean later.
  
• Get one of these dish wands. I don't know if you have any specific issues with doing the dishes, but I used to absolutely hate it and thought it was really gross. I still don't get excited to do the dishes but using a dish wand has made it easier for me personally and that has helped a lot.
  
• Do your dishes while you're waiting for something else. Commercials during TV? Wash some dishes. Waiting for the oven to preheat? Water to boil? Do some dishes. If you're waiting for something in the kitchen it at least makes you less likely to walk off and forget about it anyway.
  
• Find something else that makes doing dishes more enjoyable. Sometimes I like watching TV or listening to podcasts while I'm doing dishes and I find that helps.
  
• If you can't handle the thought of doing them all at once, promise yourself you are going to only wash a couple of dishes. Washing 3 dishes is a smaller hill to climb than washing all of them.
  
  Laundry is a lot harder and I still struggle with it tbh. But these are my tips:
  
  
• Schedule a time in the week to do it. Otherwise, it becomes easier to keep putting off because it takes a good amount of time to leave and go do it.
  
• You can hand wash some of your clothes (good for the ones that shouldn't be in the wash anyway). Quick tip: Instead of wringing your clothes (which isn't that great for them), you can also lay them flat on top of a towel, roll up the towel, and then stand on it. Unroll it, and it will be damp instead of soaking wet. You can hang it up overnight and it will be dry in the morning. This is good if you need to wash a couple important things but would be too much work for all of your laundry.
  
• Also tip for putting away laundry after - put all of your socks into mesh laundry bags to avoid losing any and to make it easier/faster to put them away afterwards. You can also buy the same socks so that they all match.
  
• Make going to the laundromat more enjoyable. Bring a book? Go to Starbucks before (or after)? Try to pair it with something you like doing.
  
  Basically my strategies are just make it more enjoyable, make it easier, and make it a habit. It's still not easy though.

Check the FAQ like the sidebar says. But I've got nothing pressing at the moment so here:

I'm answering your last question first. The Lyman manual is definitely a good place to start. And you should purchase that first and read it before you purchase anything else. It will answer most of your questions and keep you safe. It is also recommended to get other brand manuals as well, such as Lee or Hornady. Every manual is different and will give you a broader base to start from.

Press: I'm a single stage guy so I can't help with the press. You will need caliber specific dies. All brands work, Lee is the cheapest, RCBS is kinda the standard, Dillon a step above RCBS, Forster is generally regarded as the best. If you use carbide dies you don't really need to lube pistol brass. And if you do lube, its personal preference. I use a 10:1 alcohol lanolin mix that I spray on the brass inside a gallon ziplock, then shake around a bit.

Tumbler: I use the HF dual drum with a modded drum. It works fine for me as I do small batches of rifle brass. You should probably look at the FA Tumbler or something larger. It comes with media and a small packet of their detergent. Most people have great results with dish soap and a pinch of lemishine. And you really shouldn't need a primer pocket cleaner if you wet tumble.

Bullets: Those bullets should work well. And its mostly personal preference and what shoots well out of your specific firearm.

Powder: Powder is something you either buy in person or large bulk orders. The hazmat fee is a killer unless you are ordering the max weight per order, which is normally about 50 pounds. And unless you are dead set on a certain powder, most people use what they can find locally. The Field and Stream should have powder, I've never been to a Walmart that sells smokeless powder. And read your manual to know it that powder has load data for what you are loading.

Primers: Primers for the most part are personal preference, they don't affect loads until you get into long range precision rifle. And see the powder above about hazmat fees.

Calipers: Those calipers will work.

Chronograph: You really don't need a chrono for what you'll be doing, at least initially.

Have fun and stay safe. Welcome to the rabbit hole that is reloading.

I think this is a better deal kitchen soap wise: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FA1NV4/. Instead of 12oz for 7 dollars, its 6 25oz bottles for 20 bucks. 3 times the money, but 12.5 times the soap. Also, for dishwasher detergent, this is a better deal: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C72BXZK/. Instead of 20 count for 7$, it's 110 count for 20$.

Some stuff it just makes sense to try and get in bulk, because you get so, so, so much more.

Also, re milk. You don't have to get powdered milk. You also have the option to get UHT milk. UHT milk is milk that's been cooked at a high enough temperature that it becomes shelf stable. Just search for UHT milk and you'll find a tonne of brands and choices. Different fat percentages, sizes and so on. You can get a large carton, or they also make packs with a bunch of small cartons, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FX2IOQ/. I prefer that, because I don't use milk very often, so opening a small container each time works perfectly for me. You do however, have to stick the container in the fridge once you've opened it.

Also, if you have a tea strainer (or even if you don't, they're only a few bucks and worth it!), try and get loose leaf tea. You can get a lb of tea for around 10 bucks easy, and you can easily make a few hundred cups of tea. To make strong black tea, I use 4 grams of tea for every pot, and each pot gets me about 4 cups. A lb of tea is 453g, so...that works out really well. Even if you make individual cups instead of pots and use a couple grams per cup, you can easily get 200 cups out of a lb box. There's just no beating that with bags, even if you resuse them.

Here's 1lb of a green tea for 10 bucks: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SATIFA. And here's 1lb of Earl Grey for 8 bucks: http://www.amazon.com/Davidsons-Tea-Bulk-Earl-16-Ounce/

Thanks OP! I'd already created list and was about to post to food_pantry when I saw your post and you'd found cheaper options for a few things and that seriously rocks.

I start by washing all my glassware and utensils with 7th Generation dish soap. When I researched the process I read that you don’t want to use anti-bacterial soap because it can kill the active culture. I’ll link to the soap below. I will also use white distilled vinegar and wipe down the inside of the glassware.

After everything is clean I start filling my electric kettle from the tap. We have a Brita attachment on the sink to ensure the water is filtered. Depending on how much I am making will dictate how much water I have to heat up. Once the first run of water is boiling I will pour it into the clean jar and add a cup of plain old white refined sugar. I use a wooden spoon to stir until the sugar is dissolved.

Once I have all my hot water ready to go I will use Darjeeling Organic Black Tea (Link Below) and steep for about 10 minutes. Once the tea is steeped I put the lid on the jar and let it sit and cool. I always want it under 80 degrees so most of the time instead of checking it repeatedly I start the process at night and just let the tea sit overnight and cool.

In the morning or once the tea cooled to <80 degrees I will toss in the SCOBY and the starter liquid and put a paper towel over the top of the jar and secure it with butcher's twine. I have been brewing for a couple months now so I have a bunch of scobies and tea set aside in another jar always ready to go. Once everything is together I put the jar someplace dark and let it sit for 10 to 14 days.

My main formula works out like this 1 gallon water + 1 Cup Sugar + 2 Tablespoons of tea.

I have been experimenting with using brown sugar and longer steeping times and I am waiting on the results now. I will update the group if I notice anything substantially different.

That is pretty much process for the first fermentation. If anyone has any insight or advice I am always down for discussion.


https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Darjeeling-Organic-Black-Tea/dp/B014GLC2LS/ref=sr_1_6_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1484375588&sr=8-6&keywords=black%2Btea&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Seventh-Generation-Unscented-25-Ounce-Packaging/dp/B001FA1NTG/ref=sr_1_1_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1484376210&sr=8-1&keywords=7th%2Bgeneration%2Bdish%2Bsoap&th=1

Use gel dish soap like Dawn, Palmolive, etc. I get the generic store brand because I don't like paying for marketing and packaging.

If you can get it colorless and odorless, you have pretty much copied "glove wash" sold for US$3+ per ounce.

Just rinse with water if you didn't do much work during the game. Soak the gloves and do a deep-rub clean with soap when you play in mud.

Thanks for posting this! This is probably the best thing you can do to preserve a pair of gloves.

Good luck!

Didn't mean to come off as preachy, btw

You've got some great ideas here already but here's a few more.

Some chainmail to clean his cast iron pans:
Amazon link Chainmail Scrubber $10

An apron:
this is a nice BBQ one for $20

Hope you find something cool, I'm sure he'll like whatever you get him.

Wow, I do a reddit search for Matfer Bourgeat looking to see if this exact question had been answered and here we are, you asked the same thing 20 minutes before me.

I'm running into the same issue with my 11 & 7/8" Carbon Steel pan from Matfer Bourgeat. I've been using Brillo pads which has been pretty successful, but painstaking. A lot of elbow grease is needed here - the coating covers both sides of the pan.

In addition to your question (is there a better way to do this), I'm wondering if I should season the outside/bottom of the pan as well, once I get the wax off. I'm planning to use the potato peel/salt/oil method, and would probably use the typical cast iron method in the oven for the bottom.

At the moment, the Brillo pads are working (slowly, but surely). I'm about to try some Barkeeper's Friend to see how that goes.

Update: Barkeeper's Friend with a rag works to get the stubborn film out of the corners of the pan, but it's not very useful for much else. Sort of at the same conclusion you are - I might hit this thing with some Easy Off and let it sit in a trashbag overnight.

Pure silver wouldn’t “rust” per se, but electroplated nickel steel (EPNS) items could.

So, we have display items from the 1800s at work, proper silver that has been hallmarked.

If there is a considerable amount of issues with an item, a soft toothbrush and a bit of elbow grease dipped in
silver polish cream will remove most of the patina (we like our silver shiny). To remove the additional polish that sticks into the nooks and crannies (the excess polish dries dull pink to be easily seen), dip the toothbrush into
silver dip
(different tubs for display and food service items!) and scrub off the dried up polish. Buff with a soft cloth (we use ripped up old cotton bed sheets as rags).

The use of gloves and a face mask is always greatly encouraged, especially the latter when you’re removing the dried polish, becomes a fine dust.

Food service items, we’ll silver dip in a tub (again different bottles for food and display), then immediately wash in running water. We may use a soft sponge to scrub it a bit. If there is a spec of rust through the EPNS, we’ll clean that off with a
Brillo Pad
very lightly; you will cause some fine micro scratches to the plating around the rust, but it’ll just remove a fine layer.

NOT TO BE USED ON DISPLAY ITEMS!

I’ve had a group of over zealous lads come through before and pour a bit of silver dip into a silver ice bucket from 1870s before, then leave it in the Silver Store. Since it wasn’t a piece that was regularly rotated for display, we didn’t realise that it was full with dip for the better part of a few months. Couldn’t smell it either, since the store smelled of polish. When we did find it, it was as expected, but with crystals everywhere. Turned a sludgy black too. The acid in the dip actually burned through the silver, so that was totally lost.

To remove the crystals, a screwdriver, hot water, and a few hours of chipping and scrubbing may have been involved. Externally the ice bucket is still display worthy, just don’t look inside.

Once the silver plate is lost, it’ll be just a base brassy yellow colour in that spot. I’ll try to find an example at work later.

We regularly dip our EPNS cutlery at least once or twice a week; after through washing (especially if egg yolk has been involved), open a jar and just dip the fork tines in, less than 2 seconds is enough, if you want to swirl it around you can too, until the tarnish is removed, then wash in running water.

Like /u/itgotthehoseagain said, kosher salt and hot water is great.

Or one of the chainmail scrubbers meant for cast iron that you can get on Amazon like this:
http://amazon.com/Blisstime-Cleaner-Stainless-Chainmail-Scrubber/dp/B00N7DCCEO

It's what I use and I love it.


But don't worry about removing your seasoning. If it's on there good, you really won't remove it. And if it's not on there very good and coming off from hard scrubbing, then it wasn't applied very well anyway and needs more time.

Yeah, you want to make sure you get the dishwasher tabs and not use liquid dish soap that you use to clean dishes in the sink. Using dish soap, instead of something made specifically for dishwashers will cause the soap to create massive suds, which will overflow and make a giant mess.


There are also dishwasher gels and powder, powder is the cheapest but being a powder is generally seen as much less convenient, and if you get water in the box then gg. Gels are more popular than powder, less popular than the tabs.


Generally, I've always cleaned food debris or soaked food caked on dishes in the sink before putting them in the dishwasher. There are also certain items that are better to be hand-washed.

If he’s able to stand while vomiting I have advice (I know it sounds weird and icky but go with me)

I get migraines. I also throw up. If I don’t take medicine, I start throwing up as soon as I awaken (TBI when I was 12). I also had some HG - like symptoms and vomited all during my pregnancy, hospitalized for it thrice. So I know the art of puking.

Toilets are the worst place to puke. They are rarely pristine and the residual smell or even idea of having your face where bottoms go can make it last longer. The only good thing is it’s dark and you can lay on the carpet in between bouts.

Pans and bowls are good if you have someone willing to dump and wash while you are in a comfortable place. Metal tends to have a loud ring to it that can make the migraine worse, and the smell can become associated with the action, triggering it where you may be able to control it. Glass or ceramic is best.

My favorite method? Kitchen sink. You have a clean, large place that doesn’t smell like ass. Your garbage disposal is right there. You can lean on the counters, they are a good height to support your weight. After, a swish of lemon bleach, some orange peels, or my favorites, Plinks will take care of odor.

Really, why do people stick their faces in toilets to throw up? Have they never had it “coming out both ends?” That happens enough and you start throwing up a little every time you get down to clean the toilet. Nausea and vomiting are very strongly linked to those unconscious actions since aversion keeps us from getting poisoned and dying, it’s part of an evolved response.

Anyway ignore me I’m sick and dr gave me cough syrup so tonight is fun weeeeeeeeee

Although small amount of carbon in the pan are pretty normal, thick layers on burnt-on food will prevent additional layers of seasoning from forming, so this will affect how non-stick your pan will be in the long run. Try putting some kosher or coarse-grain salt in the pan with a small amount of oil and scrub well with a rag or scouring pad and see if you can remove most of it. If it's really, really bad you can try scraping with a metal spatula but I wouldn't normally recommend that because you could scrape off some of the seasoning if you are not careful. Boiling some water in the pan and scraping with a wooden spoon can help too. So can a chainmail scrubber like of these: https://www.amazon.com/Cast-iron-Stainless-Steel-Chainmail-Utopia-Kitchen/dp/B010VRTV2O/ref=sr_1_2?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1472952952&sr=1-2&keywords=chainmail+scrubber

Make sure to dry thoroughly after washing and occasionally wipe a thin layer of oil around the pan. If you are getting a lot of burnt-on food when cooking I recommend cooking at a lower temperature (you should hardly ever need to go above the "medium" or half-way setting on your stovetop - cast iron retains heat better than other types of cookware.) and using slightly more oil when cooking until your seasoning is more built up.

I recommend taking a read of the subreddit's FAQ: https://www.reddit.com/r/castiron/comments/1ttytx/a_collection_of_cast_iron_information_from_reddit

The chainmail will work, but its a bit overkill for most things if your pan is in good shape. If you too crazy with it, you might rip a little seasoning off.

In addition to the old salt/oil method, plastic scrubbers ( like these ), Scotch Brite Non Scratch, the blue kind, not the green ones, and/or a stiff nylon brush under hot water all work great. Lodge also makes Scrapers that are very useful.

Same. I love mine, it makes cleaning the pan super easy. Here is the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F76P97C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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make sure you're re-greasing after drying. also, over a weekend, just let it sit on low/mid-slow on a burner for a few hours while wiping it down with oil a few times. it all helps. I'd got my shitty Emeril skillet like glass after a few months of doing this and using it primarily for meats initially. Today, with a tab of butter, I could make sunny-side-up eggs perfectly.

Also, not sure how you're going about scrubbing, but you might consider a chainmail scrubber instead of a brush or sponge. That'll help get the grit off of it without scrubbing away the good stuff. http://www.amazon.com/Blisstime-Cleaner-Stainless-Chainmail-Scrubber/dp/B00N7DCCEO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1450286841&sr=8-3&keywords=chainmail+scrubber

This.

I bought one of these about 2 1/2 years ago. Still in perfect shape and does an amazing job. Also, cleaning the chainmail is so much easier than trying to get bits of food out of a scrubbing pad, sponge or brush.

Plus, it looks cool hanging in the kitchen

The 3lb would work, but if you can get a deal on the 6lb one, I'd get it. I have the 6lb one(dual drum) and if I remember correctly, I do 50 cases of .308 or 7.62x54r cases per drum, each works out to be about 1lb of brass. For 9mm and 45acp, I weigh out a pound on a kitchen scale.

I do 1lb brass, 1lb stainless steel pins, 1 lb water, a squirt of laundry soap, and a 9mm case worth of lemishine.

I deprime before cleaning with a Lee depriming die.

I tumble for 30 min to an hour, then separate from the pins, rinse, and let dry.

I also load on a single stage about once a month, and it works great for me.

If you have any questions, you can PM me.

I have heard good things about Lemi Shine Dishwasher Additive. Here is a description from the Sears Parts Direct website. "Lemi Shine dishwasher additive (part number WX10X10019) is a concentrated additive that removes hard water buildup. Lemi Shine dishwasher additive WX10X10019 breaks up mineral deposits including calcium, lime and iron. Follow the instructions on the label when using this product." Maybe that would help clean out the internal parts on your dishwasher and make for cleaner dishes. Amazon also sells the Lemi Shine dishwasher additive and it's only around $ 8.79. There are 648 reviews for the Lemi Shine so you could read a few of them and see what people have to say about it.

I cook exclusively on cast iron or stainless steel. I won't use teflon or aluminum. The cast iron has worked great for me. If something burns onto the bottom of the pan, I just scrape it off with a metal spatula and give the pan a scrub with chainmail (similar to this) which IMO is a must-have for cast iron users!

Last night, I lazy-baked whole wheat bread on the stovetop in my cast iron chicken fryer with a lid on top. (You just smash the dough out flat instead of loaf shaped and pop it in there when the iron is hot, no oil or grease required) One of the loaves burned a little bit because I got distracted, I just scraped up the burned bits with my spatula and kept on baking. My husband likes the burned loaves, anyway.

I season the cast iron with a very tiny amount of coconut oil or bacon grease in a 400 degree oven and it keeps the surface nicely shiny and nonstick. I don't worry about the seasoning "contaminating" my food because all the oil burns off anyway.

Their really isn't much to it, residue free and cost effective, 2 bottles for 10 bucks, I typically get some through Amazon, here's the exact one I've been using for years, http://www.amazon.com/Dawn-Ultra-Dishwashing-Liquid-Original/dp/B001XQ7LOS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373341739&sr=8-1&keywords=dawn+dish+soap

stainless steel gets rid of garlic smell. on amazon you can get a chainmail scrubber that is fucking awesome for scrubbing stuff. it would get rid of the smell.

in general though, fuck any kind of brillo, or any other scrubber at the grocery store. this thing is superior. and it doesnt seem to damage anything when you use it. get one.

LINK

Good to know. Good thing I didn’t buy a big bottle of flaxseed.

What are your thoughts on those chain mail scrub things?

https://www.amazon.com/Cusfull-Premium-Stainless-Chainmail-Scrubber/dp/B01H1AQGVI/ref=asc_df_B01H1AQGVI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167152462925&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16784287026253467428&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061254&hvtargid=pla-305941095488&psc=1

Like everyone else has said.... scale. That happens in my kettles too, because my city has very hard water, and I don't have a water softener. I use a product called LemiShine once a month to remove stuff like that. Just add it to boiling water in the pot and scrub some. It's just citric acid, and it helps a lot.

Grab one of these. Awesome for cleaning cast iron.

http://www.amazon.com/Blisstime-Cleaner-Stainless-Chainmail-Scrubber/dp/B00N7DCCEO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1453078084&sr=8-5&keywords=stainless+scrubber

This thing is a blessing .
Cast Iron Cleaner XL 7x7 Inch Premium Stainless Steel Chainmail Scrubber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N7DCCEO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_QZDKwb9DHTSKJ

> Cleaning products.

I've been using this for a while and it's fantastic. "Tough on dirty dishes, not the hands that wash them. Seventh Generation Free & Clear Dish Liquid cuts through grease and powers away tough residue without the use of fragrances, dyes, phosphates, or triclosan. This hypoallergenic fragrance-free dish soap is dermatologist tested and made for sensitive skin."

For those who do not want to use TSP as an additive, LemiShine is a very effective booster. I also use it on glass shower doors, hose fittings, anything with hard water buildup. My favorite use is to remove the "haze" from stainless steel cookware that forms after cooking certain foods - oddly both beans and spinach leave the residue, but LemiShine removes it in minutes.

Dishwasher Detergent (Double D... ooooo yeah!) on my Needs for Team CMAZ WL.

Thank you for the contest!! <3

I would get a chain mail cast iron scrubber. Heat up the pan a bit and soak it in hot water before scrubbing gently. You could heat it up again to dry it and see if enough came off, if not, repeat? Seems like you could remove a bunch without ruining all the seasoning and kind of encase it? https://www.amazon.com/Cusfull-Premium-Stainless-Chainmail-Scrubber/dp/B01H1AQGVI

Dawn is a dishwashing soap it can be found in most American supermarkets as well as Home Depot and Target.

The blue variety is the basic no frills original formula of Dawn. It is a dark indigo color.

To differentiate from other kinds with added scent and foaming action, I just call it "blue Dawn."

http://www.amazon.com/Dawn-Ultra-Dishwashing-Liquid-Original/dp/B001XQ7LOS

I typically put one back to back for a couple weeks if I know one is going on the wayside. However, once I started learning about filter media I started just stuffing my Hang-On-Back filters with filter floss and ceramic rings. Right now my HOB has a small bag of purigen, a little clump of poly fill, and a pot scrubbie.

I experiment with different media regularly, but you always want to seed your new media by placing it in the tank(near the water flow) or, preferably, in the filter itself.

You could try the product Plink. It's basically a little degradable ball filled with scented cleanser. You run a light stream of water into the disposal and drop the ball into the drain and give it ten or fifteen seconds to break apart and coat the inside of the disposal and you're all done. The scent is fairly strong immediately after you use it and you can smell it while you're still at the sink, but after that it fades. I'm not sure it would be enough to clean/mask the odor that you've got, but you could try it. Maybe use a couple of little Plink balls instead of just one.

The link above goes to Amazon, but I usually find them in drugstores and grocery stores. In grocery stores they're usually down where the dishwashing soap is and they're often not on the shelf but hanging on a little display.

I'm always super careful to only hold scotch bright in tension so that if it catches it'll just slip out of my grasp. Anything in compression gets a tool to separate it from my fleshy bits; like pliers or tongs.

or...maybe?

I'd rather spend .01% of my life being an anal annoyance than have it cut short or spend the remainder without my precious fleshy bits. I'm too ugly to lose my polishing hand.

Thank you, but i'll leave my mistake

Μπάνιο με αυτό;

I second the chainmail srcubber - I use this one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N7DCCEO) when I need something more than the brush (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G0T3CE6/)

Guess we just got to wait until dawn to see the final results

here m8

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H1AQGVI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_SVGiDbKSWMPVN

If you have cast iron, these chain-mail scrubbers are dual purpose.

http://www.amazon.com/Dawn-Ultra-Dishwashing-Liquid-Original/dp/B001XQ7LOS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348504867&sr=8-1&keywords=dish+soap

48 ounces for $11.

Cook bacon, scrub thoroughly with chainmail pad, wipe with paper towel, repeat.


Blisstime Cast Iron Cleaner Premium Stainless Steel Chainmail Scrubber, Square https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F76P97C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T.ITDb4WHGDJD

Edit: no water, and definitely no soap

These are fantastic.

100% polyester stuffing (used for quilts) will work. You can find that in the fabric section of walmart.

You can also use (new) dollar store nylon pot scrubbers as a bio media...
http://www.amazon.com/Dozen-Round-Scrubber-Scourer-Dishwasher/dp/B00I29PYIY

/u/FredWampy should get this because it is cool

/u/Sieberella should get this because I like it and it is a lot of money.

There is a warning

I guess that myself, with many others, did not read the back label for dishwashing soap before putting it in the dishwasher. It says it, but I am not very smart.

• These are excellent for hard to get to dust spots, water removal and clogs
  
  
• Awesome is great but powerful for cleaning
  
  
• Murphy's Oil for wood
  
  
• Vinger and water fir windows
  
  
• Soft Scrub for toilets and sinks
  
  
• Brillo for crust
  
  
• Steel Wool for rust
  
  
• Also if caulking anything stuff with steel wool , mice hate steel wool and will avoid at all costs
  
  
• Coffee pots: add salt, ice, and lemon juice, mix until the ice melts and swirl, rinse when the pot freezes a bit

My 3776 is probably my most reliable pen. I can't think of a single problem I've had with it. But I bought it in a department store in Japan, so maybe the clerk at the stationary section adjusted it for me -- it was my first gold nib pen and my Japanese wasn't great.

If you're writing dry, try grabbing the shoulders & pulling the slit apart a bit. I prefer that to pressing the nib against something, as it doesn't change the angle of the nib - just the width of the slit.

If you don't want to mess with the nib: about 1/2 a drop of dishwashing soap in the converter will increase flow (use a toothpick to get sub-drop quantity)

You betta wrap that shit.

https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Wool-Soap-Pads-Original/dp/B007UGX644

You don't need that expeensive gun specific crap.

Get some of this and some Dawn dish soap.

https://www.amazon.com/Lemi-Shine-Dishwater-Detergent-Concentrated/dp/B004YWJ3S0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_121_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KFP767SF2BMYTDNV7HZK