Reddit mentions: The best dog bowls & dishes

Hi there and you are welcome!

I will give you some advice below though a lot of things need to be changed... No offence at all, just trying to help.

What is happening now is very dangerous so you need to address this ASAP. The neosporin and bag balm will help in the short term to keep things from getting worse. Once you have actual urine scald it is very hard to address.

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Set up:

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1. A cage with wire bottom is not appropriate at all. Wire bottoms hurt their feet a lot, please do not do it.
   
2. Also change his kennel set up.
   
   1. It should not be lined with hay. The floor should be solid so he knows that is his living space not his litter box. You can use absorbent blankets or puppy pee pads and change them EVERY DAY until you litter train him.
      
   2. Now, get a large cat litter box and set it up like I suggested - not with puppy pee pads, but with proper bedding such as wood pellets and carefresh
      
      1. Watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XI1aonqc5Tc
         
      2. I highly recommend using either carefresh paper litter the is much more absorbent or wood pellets which are equally absorbent and actually have good odor control... might suggest using a mix (in layers) kind of like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPMlRVUNZ00.
         
      3. Do not line the litter box with hay - put hay in a heaping pile on one side that he will use as the kitchen side while he pees and poops on the other side. You are wasting hay now as he pees on it and doesn't eat it after of course.
         
      4. Clean the litter box daily - it should not be damp.
         
      5. Here is what his space should look like https://imgur.com/a/3n4WO84 (just the hay still only on one side of the litter box)
         
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         Litter Training:
         
         Then you need to start litter training him. DILIGENTLY! trust me it is very possible... You need to make a real effort on this and get the set up right. Also bring his litter box outside when he is there and liter train there too.
         
         Th key is to reinforce diligently! Bunnies are very food motivated. Use positive reinforcement to build a clear association that using the litter box leads to good things. Remind him that a litter box is a good thing by giving a tiny treat every time you see him use it for a while. If you are ever there and see him get ready to go (his tail kind of lifts up like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym7-BBY4ep4) scoop him up gently and put him in the litter box. If you see him make one poop, as soon as you see it place him right in the box so the rest he does in there. Once he goes give that little treat to him as a reward. This reinforcement if done consistently over time will really help. Place any poops you find back into his litter box together with the bunny to reinforce and if he pees outside use a napkin to blot it and again place back into the litter box
         
         Lastly be sure you clean the spot he pees outside his litter box each time wit white vinegar to remove the scent of his pee so that he doesn't keep coming back to the spot.
         
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         Neutering:
         
         Now you also have to get him neutered. It is very hard to litter train an unfixed bunny due to hormonal territory marking.
         
         Neutering is essential! Please find a RABBIT SAVVY vet ASAP and schedule a consult. A good vet is key.
         
         One of the best ways to find a great vet is through you local rabbit rescues. Try to google your local rabbit rescues, see what the closest House Rabbit Society chapter is. Dedicated rabbit rescues do a lot of spays and neuters (they never leave the buns unfixed) so they can always recommend a good and well priced vet. Often you can find this info right on their websites (look in different sections there) but if not an email with a question will get you a response.
         
         Also here you can also find a list of rabbit savvy vets by state to cross reference the info:
         
         https://rabbit.org/vet-listings/
         
         http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Category:United_States (also lists rescues and low cost clinics to look into to)
         
         https://www.chewy.com/petcentral/directory-of-veterinarians-for-exotic-small-mammals
         
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         In particular for a spay this page also has great questions to ask the vet/clinic as you research - http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Spaying_and_neutering_rabbits
         
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         Water bowl:
         
         I would get a heavy ceramic bowl with straight up edges he cannot push on to tip the bowl - you can look on Etsy or go to Ross or TJmax, they sell a lot of pet items very cheap with bowls among them. You are looking for something heavy.
         
         Also there are these bowls that you can clip to the side of an enclosure like an xpen - like this or this or this - clip it low to the ground so it's basically still is on the ground for him but clipped in. Or even a gravity feeder like this.
         
         Also clearly he likes to flip thing, so offer him alternatives these Nesting cups where you can hide pellets in between are great for flipping, as is a Plastic slinky - try these to divert his attention to them instead of the bowl. In the absences of toys a bored and frustrated bunny will do other things....

First off stuff to buy.

1. Crate. Unfortunately from my personal experience you will likely end up with 2. I got the largest I could find locally and it worked well for the first year or so and had a nice divider so that crate training worked well, but by time Minnie was full grown it was too short for her and ended upgrading to this massive beast and she loves it
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VVWBVY/
   
   
2. Beds are a waste as others have said, they will look for what ever is cold and will lay in some of the most awkward positions you can imagine. So with that said i recommend the following pad if you are going to spend quite a bit of time in a room that is carpeted. Its filled with water and does a good job making a cool spot for them to lay. If you are handy i recommend getting some thin fabric and making like a giant pillow case for it as it will make cleaning it 100x easier and will further prevent rips from their claws (although it is quite durable on its own)
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003KK60R4/
   
   
3. Dryer. This you wont need now, but once their adult coat starts coming in around a year and they are swimming more a high velocity dryer really makes a huge difference in getting them dry and keeping their skin in good condition. I recommend googling this a bit and looking at some reviews. These can get pricey but generally you get what you pay for. I personally went with the B-Air Bear Power 4hp model, but it comes and goes in terms of availability at a decent price.
   
   
4. Toys, they really can do a number on toys so you'll probably want to skip most plush toys and stick to the more heavy duty canvas and chew resistant toys. Generally dont spend a ton on toys because they will likely be destroyed, keep an eye on them and take them away once they really get into them and starts ripping them apart. The one brand I will however absolutely recommend is Chuck-it. They are the Orange and blue toys and I have no idea what they make their toys out of but we have several of their large balls that are going on 3 years old still in like new condition. Minnie can chew them like bubble gum and hasn't managed to destroy one. their water bumpers are nearly as indestructible.
   
   
5. Flea and Tick meds. This will likely be controversial because ask 10 people and you will get 11 answers. But we started Minnie on Advantix II and it worked amazing, as long as you applied it frequently. Its once a month under ideal conditions, but with heavy swimming it can be as little as once every 2 weeks. As long as you are applying it on schedule it does great. Never saw anything on her and we are in New England where the tick season has been crazy the last year or two. However the cost and application timing was getting a bit much so we switched to the Sorresto collar and it appears to be working just as well (doesn't protect against mosquito like the advantix however but with their fur i figure thats a minimal issue). The advantage is with the collar is that its good for 5 months even with regular baths / swimming. So overall the cost is lower and you arent having to keep reapplying it.
   
   
6. food and water bowls. I found these on amazon and love them. they are good and heavy, dishwasher safe and nice and large. For the price they have been amazing. The nice thing is with their weight that Minnie doesnt try to move them around to flip them over if she splashes in her water bowl. I got the 9.5" version. One note of caution, they can get chipped in shipping, so really look them over if you get them. Amazon is great on exchanging them if you get one not in perfect shape.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AS5QY/
   
   
7. Health and wellness. Where possible dont buy "dog" things here. A good example is if you end up having to do dewormer. Panacur-C is quite expensive because its done by weight. The same medicine is sold on amazon / Tractor Supply for goats at a much lower cost and you can easily calculate dosage based on what the mg in the comparable Panacur-C package. Same goes for probiotic. Like we use this and its lasted close to 2 years and its been a much better value than buying the dog version.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088OKQIQ/
   
   
8. Microchipping. If you have a VIP pet care in your area they do the chip and lifetime registration for under $20.
   
   
9. Food. As a pup its important to find a food that has a low calcium content. Eukanuba Large breed puppy is one of the few that I've found that meets this. You want less than 1%. As they get older you will want to find a quality food. Kirkland Salmon is affordable and gets good feedback.

FEEDING

>Every time I've fed him, he's thrown up.

How long has this been going on? If it has happened for more than a couple days you REALLY need to get to the bottom of this. A vet check would be prudent to rule out worms or any other gastric issues. What food are you feeding? How much? How often?

Puppies should be getting 3 meals a day. Free feeding should be avoided. If your puppy is eating too quickly consider getting a puzzle toy, making him earn most of his food through training or hand feeding or getting a special feeder (you can also use a muffin tray as a cheap remedy)

Check out the food you are feeding on Dog Food Advisor. Then compare it to the 4 star and 5 star food lists.

WHEN you feed is also an important consideration. Wait at least 30-60 minutes to feed after heavy activity.


HOUSE TRAINING

>I've been making sure to punish him accordingly (push his nose into the pee/poo, yelling at him, and taking him outside)

You should NOT be doing this! You are not teaching him that going to the bathroom in the house is bad - you are ONLY teaching him that going to the bathroom IN FRONT OF YOU IS DANGEROUS. If he has an accident in the house it is YOUR fault for not being around to let him out or watching him closely enough. Push your own nose in it as you are the only one who is failing.

A puppy is a baby - at 12 weeks they can only hold it for a maximum of 3 hours when they are inactive and usually only 30mins-1hour when they are active. They need to be supervised AT ALL TIMES or left in a puppy safe area (but not for any longer than they can physically hold it).

You do not need any "homemade tech" - you just need to manage his environment more! Look into Crate Training, clean up pet messes immediately with an enzymatic cleaner, and get him on a schedule (which is sounds like you are sort of doing - but if he is still having accidents he may need to go out more frequently or you need to do a better part of watching him/being around on time). Rewarding him with a high value treat when he goes outside IS correct - but stop punishing him when he makes a mistake!

See: Errorless House Training, House Training a Puppy and ASPCA House Training your Dog (this one covers the 'why' behind the effectiveness or lack-there-of for certain 'old school' methods - like paper training and rubbing your dogs nose in waste).


BITING/CHEWING
> He does seem pretty obedient when I catch him trying to chew, as he will stop when I yell at him and he will leave it alone.

You are focusing waaay too much on punishment. Again, your dog is a baby - he does not KNOW that your flip flops are valuable to you. He just knows he is a puppy and he is teething and this weird piece of foam and plastic feels good to chew on. Yelling at him just makes you scary and dangerous and is not actually TEACHING him what he SHOULD be doing. Look for opportunities to teach, not to punish.

Pick up and store everything that you do not want your pup to chew on - this includes making sure shoes are put away, paper is out of reach and any other 'favorite' non-appropriate chews are stored in a drawer, closet or on a high shelf (this is basic puppy proofing). If there is a room with a lot of items you cannot store that he tends to chew on - block access to that room with gates or doors (or ensure he is on leash and closely supervised when in these areas).

If you catch him chewing on something he should not - use a positive interrupter and replace the object with something he SHOULD be chewing on. Play with him a bit with the new object and encourage him to seek these items out. Reward him with small treats whenever you catch him 'being good' (playing with appropriate toys instead of your shoes) and take breaks to play with him when you see him doing these things as often as you can. You want to teach him that playing with these objects is rewarding and gets him attention. Some dogs will seek out 'off limits' items just because it gets your attention so effectively. Try to ignore him or use a positive interrupter and redirect to a new object. Going into a different room, waiting a few seconds and calling the puppy to you is a good way to redirect him away from the object without giving him direct attention. NEVER chase a dog with an object in their mouth the should not have - that just makes it a game for them! Unless the object is immediately dangerous, try to convince them to drop it on their own and make a big deal about them choosing a better chew.

Make sure there are several toys that he enjoys chewing on available at all times. You may also want to use natural chews like Bully Sticks or Trachea to help encourage positive chewing habits. Things like ice cubes or damp, frozen rags are great chews for pups with sore mouths from teething.

CRATE TRAINING/SLEEPING

This is totally normal for puppies. They are alone for the first time in their lives and that is really scary to them!

A properly sized crate should be just big enough for puppy to stand, sit, lay down and turn around in. Any bigger and they have the opportunity to use a corner for a bathroom and sleep on the other side. The purpose of the smaller crate size is to discourage them from having accidents and to learn to hold their bladder.

That being said, remember a puppy of this age can only hold it for a few hours! You will likely need to take him out at least once in the night until he is old enough to hold it longer.

You need to ensure that NO attention is given to the puppy while he is in the crate and crying. This becomes a bit of a trick as you need to be SURE he isn't crying to go out to the bathroom. The general rule is:

• If the pup has been out in the last 30-60 minutes, ignore
  
• If the pup has NOT been out, take him DIRECTLY outside on leash, give him 5-10minutes to do his business. If he does, you can give him a small treat then RIGHT back inside in his crate to sleep. No pets, not excessive attention, no play time. Potty. Crate. That is all fussing gets.
  
• If the pup carries on for more than 10 minutes or so, it may be worth taking them outside (see bullet #2) to make sure they are 'empty'. Again, they have 5-10 minutes to go. If they do, treat, inside. If they dont? They go back in the crate. No treat.
  
• If you are 100% sure the pup does not need to go to the bathroom, you MUST absolutely ignore the pup. No yelling ("QUIET!" "SHUT UP!"), No hitting the crate, no eye contact, try not to walk by the crate, etc. Pretend like you absolutely cannot hear him. It is hard the first few nights, but if you are absolutely consistent, the behavior WILL stop.
  
• If he is quiet in his crate (and people are awake) give him some small treats and attention to reinforce that behavior.
  
  It can help if you have his crate in the same room while you sleep so he doesn't feel so alone. Blankets also help if he is being over stimulated by the environment.
  
  GENERAL
  
  Be sure the puppy is getting plenty of exercise, training and attention. If you are working 8 hours every single night and sleeping during the day - puppy can be left with a lot of 'free time' which can lead to behavior issues. Puppies DO sleep a lot, but they should be getting at least 30-60 minutes of activity every 2 hours or so (between naps) and (ideally) have a max of 8 hours 'quiet time' during traditional sleeping hours.
  
  Here is a list of resources I would strongly encourage you look at - in addition to getting him into a puppy kindergarten class:
  
  
• /r/puppy101 (read the lessons on the sidebar)
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Wiki
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Book List
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Online Resources
  
  
• Dog training wiki - nipping
  
  
• Dog training wiki - house training
  
  
• The Digital Dog Training Textbook
  
  
• Ian Dunbar - Training Bite Inhibition
  
  
• Kikopup Training Videos
  
  
• Kikopup - Clicker Training
  
  
• Kikopup - Puppy Playlist
  
  
• Dont Shoot the Dog (book)
  
  
• The Culture Clash (book)
  
  
• The Power of Positive Dog Training (book)

I've got little Foggy in a dog crate settup on my porch. First two days was easy since she felt so poopy but now she's active and feeling better and she's spitting up the pills. We got some tiny tomatoes and grapes and hiding them in it. It's best to let her eat the pills vs forcing them down her throat.

Also clean clean clean, it's super important to keep their environment clean. I have 6 large bath towels on rotation and a good layer of news paper underneath. I change the towels 3 times a day to make sure she doesn't sit/stand in wet/poop.

Also these are literally the best. She can't tip them over for food and water: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012GTZVQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good luck!

Another male? Aspen is ok though carefresh or better yet (and certainly cheaper in the long run) fleece. You can just go to a Joann's or walmart or any hobby/sewing store and buy some fleece. Toss it in the wash as needed with an extra set in reserve. Cat food is what you should transition him to, high quality. I do blue buffalo cat food personally. It will last you a VERY long time. Hedgehog food is never as good for them as it should be. I will provide some amazon links for things you should probably get, the main one that you should but not quite have to if you have a room in the proper temp range is 72-80 degrees. Please come over to Hedgehogs Anonymous on Facebook request to join, then once you are in simply go to the files and take a look at them. I am a college student myself so I do my best to keep costs low though obviously start up costs will be high but after that its really quite cheap mostly (aside from possible vet visits).

Modular shelving can be the cage and gives him plenty of open room to roam and play around. This is the shelving I personally use and can vouch for. I have a 3x3 grid so 9 sq ft. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LGZOR6A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the food I get for my Sophie. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KU55KD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heating set up, again this is only if you need it and can keep the temp in the right range naturally. I dont know where you live so I do not know what your winters are like but if you get temps in the 50s or lower I do recommend it. Another preventative measure is to put the cage a foot or so off the ground, will actually keep your temps a few degrees higher than on the ground.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DHO6S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Ceramic Heat Emitter - Use this and NOT a heat light or something for reptiles, they need to have a period of darkness to be naturally awake 12/12 light on/off schedule All that the CHE does is emit heat, no light.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CZ0J3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thermostat with a temp probe. Plug the CHE lamp into this and it automatically turns the CHE on and off to keep the temp in the right range.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003H200QC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The lamp part to plug the CHE bulb into.

Hide - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068K132/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mint Stick (it seems all hedgies love these things lol)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8Q5JTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

food dishes
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040B9NOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are all the bare essentials aside from a wheel. I and most other people will recommend the Volcano View Hedgehogs bucket wheel or Carolina Storm bucket wheel.

I was just trying to be a thorough as possible without really leaving out anything. Again please join us over at Hedgehogs Anonymous on facebook. Everyone in the group absolutely loves helping everyone with a hedge. Any question that you may have can and will be answered fairly quickly. Most if not all members would recommend getting from a USDA certified breeder just so you know the full medical history of your baby and his parents. Its also generally cheaper as the cost from a breeder is generally around $200 though that depends on the coloring. I am by no means saying do not get him from your pet store you played with him at. I dont like pet stores having hedgehogs just because they are a more sensitive exotic animal that doesnt do well in a retail setting when you have to take care of hundreds of animals at once with high overhead. But if he is behaves well with you now then absolutely get him from there. He looks on the smaller side so hes pretty young.

Again please join us over at Hedgehogs Anonymous. Cant wait to see you and your baby on there. You could potentially take him home today with a cheap bin, simple fleece bolts and food and water dishs from what you have in your house and thatll last until the rest of your supplies are acquired.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/382631271838164/

My bully is also 7! We use Earthbath shampoo. I'd recommend these Keto-C Antiseptic wipes if he has any skin fold irritation. You might want to try a fish oil to add to his food; that should help his hair and they just love it. My pup has some arthritis and hip dysplasia, so we give him a glucosamine/chondroitin supplement. He has a bit of a grain sensitivity so he eats Rachel Ray Just Six. I keep Benadryl on hand (vet approved) because it helps when he gets seasonal allergies. Get some dog toothpaste and a brush; it really does help. My pup loves any kind of dental bones, also. Keep an eye out for a head tilt or unusual ear wax/discharge as bullies can be prone to ear infections. Make sure he wears a harness (we've used a cheap roman harness for years but recently got this harness) and take good care of his neck- my boy has recently been dealing with a prolapsed intervertebral disk, which is caused by normal play like tug of war and fetch, jumping off the couch, going up and down stairs, and generally having a huge head. So now we play very carefully, carry him on stairs, and have him on an anti-inflammatory. He uses a raised feeding dish to prevent strain. We also put a little tennis ball in his food to make him eat slowly (he has a tendency to eat too fast and throw up). I use Argan oil and petroleum jelly on his nose when it gets dry.
I'm sure he'll let you know his taste in treats and toys soon, but my buddy likes antler chews, Busy Bones, and all stuffed animals. Rawhides make him throw up. Congratulations and good luck!

I would say this is actually a great thing! Food driven dogs are easier to train because they are always excited about a treat. Use it to your advantage!

As far as stealing food- especially if its from counters- that's on you to keep the counters clean so she never gets anything. If she gets something off the counter then she will continue to steal. If she doesn't, that should eventually go away. if you catch her eyeing a counter and looking like she is about to jump- get her attention and give her a treat for looking at you instead of jumping. Rewarding right before the unwanted behavior occurs, rather than correcting it as it happens usually has more impact on the dog.

Teaching a strong leave it is also going to be key. Take some kibble or something that the dog really likes and have her lay down or sit. Place the food out of her reach and if she tries to get it- pick it up. As she backs off, put it back down. When she eventually stops trying- reward right there in that moment with something even better from behind your back. Dog will learn, if i don't try to eat that, I might get something better. My puppy class teacher told us to never let them get something themselves that they have been told to leave but you can pick it up and hand it to them. You have to practice this a lot in varied situations. For example- my pup is so good at this when you ask her to lay down, you can place treats on her paws and she won't take them; but, if you drop hot dog from the counter to the floor that is much harder so we have been working on that.


For slowing her down during meal time

1. try a puzzle bowl or slow feeder like this
   
   
2. wet her kibble and let it get a little mushy, stuff it in a kong and freeze then give it to her
   
   
3. get a kong wobbler or similar toy and feed from that
   
   
4. make her work for 1/2 her meal as training using kibble as the reward
   
   all of these things will help wear her out as well as play into her strong desire to eat!

Get a container, small enough not to lose track of them but big enough for a small food bowl. I guess tupperware or something similar? I'd normally suggest a kritter keeper, but they look a bit too small for one lol. I'd get one of those square, semi flat containers, like this, so that it's small but still has enough floor space. A taller but less wide one would be better, but I couldn't find any solid options.

Poke some holes in the top for air, put some pesticide free dirt in the bottom, get a small bowl to put their food in, though I'm not sure where you'd get something small enough. It still needs to be heavy so the snail can't lift it, so small plastic containers are out, but nothing too big. Seems a lot of people use bowls like this one, though usually it's for larger snails.

Make sure you spray them with water near daily. Keep the walls and floor moist (but don't flood it), feed them pesticide free/organic veggies (and some fruits, but it's said that citrus can hurt snails in large doses, so just be wary, especially because of your snail's size), get them a cuttlefish bone (found in the bird section of pet stores) for calcium to help keep their shell strong. You'll likely only need one as they're pretty big. I'd snap it in half and just put one half in at a time, preferably on top of something so that it isn't dirtied up from the, well, dirt.

I think that's mostly it?? Honestly this may be too much info lol, you only asked for where to put them.

Good luck with them! What're you gonna name them?

This is our 8 month old Pembroke Welsh Corgi, Winston!

He chews and chews and chews, but he's pretty good at keeping it to his toys (and the occasional stray sock)

His favourites (and those that haven't given up after about 5 minutes are the Kong ball, Kong classic, Kong squeezze, elk antlers and finally Nylabones (I tend to buy one size up to avoid him tearing through them...

He is a surprisingly strong chewer and has destroyed just about everything else we've presented to him within minutes, sometimes within seconds!

There are 3 pitbulls around my place and I find they have LOTS of energy...I would suggest that you invest in some "agility equipment" to work the mind and the body! We bought some cheap shower tension rods to use as jumping obstacles in the hallway, a play tunnel from IKEA - although it may be too small for a pit...and this summer, we will make some weave poles out of PVC pipes and stuff.

A travel bowl or this Nylabone dinosaur would be awesome for Winston! :D

Thanks so much for the contest and congrats on the new pup! Enjoy him and snuggle him and love him! Dogs are the best! :D

> However, he's intelligent enough to know that when I'm not at home, he can do whatever he wants.



This is a common concept throughout the animal kingdom. Humans, too. It's why corrections are ineffective for this type of situation, because he does these things when you're not home, therefore negating the ability for anyone to correct the behavior. Management, daily mental/physical stimulation, and short, fun training sessions are the top ways to address it.



Have you tried a slow feeder bowl for water?


How do you feel about crate training for when you are gone?


> I have tried pretending to leave and catching him in the act.


It sounds like this has exacerbated the problem. I would stop doing this if you are. He is learning how to test whether or not you are home, as you've discovered.


I would absolutely try fun, positive vibe-feeling crate training for this sort of stuff. If you play lots of games with the crate (many on Youtube), make it very fun and all about good things, give him food, treats, bones, etc. in there, he will learn that it's a fun and safe space where good things happen.


However, if he is only doing these things when you're not home, it could be that he is exhibiting separation anxiety. If you find that crate training or placing him in a safe room/bathroom is unsuccessful, I would recommend contacting a veterinary behaviorist or extremely competent behaviorist or certified trainer. I say vet behaviorist first because if it is true sep anx, and it is severe enough objectively, pharmalogical intervention can help training sessions actually sink in, because anxious brains can't learn.

Yeah going fake gives you the benefit of something that will last much much longer and has no chance of growing mold and is easy to clean. Good thing is if you're savvy enough and know where to shop, creating a good set up for your snake (aside from the enclosure itself) shouldn't have to break the bank. In the future you will have to shill out some cash for a proper adult enclosure so keep that in mind. For future substrate, the ones I named should be perfectly suited for a BCI since it will need humidity between 60-70%. I would shy away from aspen because it gets soggy easily and is prone to mold growth. Another thing is I suggest getting a ceramic water bowl. Even baby BCI can easily tip over other water bowls and there are some good ones on amazon that are deep and sturdy. https://www.amazon.com/Ethical-5-Inch-Stoneware-Crock-Dish/dp/B00025YU3Q/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3GEO31AZRX3RC&keywords=ceramic+water+bowl&qid=1565353412&s=gateway&sprefix=ceramic+water%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVlpZSUQ1R0lPWUsyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDgzMjE5MTNRM1lGQlBQWk1QRSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTk1Mjc5MkxYS0NLOVZVMEUySyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

If you have any other snake husbandry questions feel free to DM me. I'd be more than happy to point you in the right direction.

I have only had my greyhound, Kuiper, for 3 weeks, so I can speak to what the first couple weeks with a shy dog is. He is also a retired racer (race name Bella Kingo) and was off the track for about 2 months before coming into our home. What is your girls racing name? What is her new name going to be?

Greyhounds in generally seem to be a very reserved breed at first, but they then open up and ours is becoming quite the goofball!

I don't know if you plan on kenneling her at all, but we chose to kennel Kuiper and are very happy we did. He likes to "get away from it all" sometimes and just goes to his kennel to take a nap. Also, he prefers to eat while standing in his kennel - while reaching to his food bowl outside.

As for things to keep in mind. The first day is often overwhelming for the dogs (at least it was for Kuiper.) Hourly trips outside until he got on schedule (he didn't go poop for the first 2 days!) and we ended up adding some metamucil to his food to solidify his stool. Greys can be sensitive, and you'll notice it most when they go to the bathroom. Also, we kennel Kuiper in our room at night and the second night his stomach was grumbling so loud it actually woke us up. That sometimes happens with the stress of new scenery and a new diet.

Also, patio doors! Our grey took one look at our deck and headed right into our patio door. He didn't hurt himself, but was kind of confused as first. So, if you have a patio door, just draw the blinds or put some masking tape on it and then introduce it to him.

I'll give you our experience with our cats. When we first got Kuiper, we put the cats in the basement for the first day to give him a chance to acclimate himself to us and our house. The second day we brought the cats up and every time a cat would come near, Kuiper would jump to his feet. At first, we thought it was a sign of aggression, we soon figured out that he was TERRIFIED of them and just wanted to leave the room when they came in. 3 weeks later, he still doesn't "like" them, but generally completely ignores them.

Another thing you could do to help the bond is grooming her. We bought a grooming glove which Kuiper really likes. I think it helps build the bond between him and I.

I had the chance to take off some work and spend the first couple days with him - I think that helped. All in all, we are still learning a LOT. He hasn't had any accidents in the house and only barks (or whines) when he needs to go outside to relieve himself. Honestly, it has been nothing short of fantastic!

Edit: I would also recommend a harness instead of a collar for when you go outdoors. I was reading an article just the other day that said there has been an increase in cases of dogs having esophageal problems because of collars. With shy dogs, sometimes they like to just freeze and stand there - and sometimes you need to move them for their own safety (i.e. Kuiper likes to freeze when people on bikes come towards him and we need to gently move him to the side of the trail.) The harness takes the strain off the neck. Just my two cents :)

There are many many options for housing a salamander. Nobody knows has a better internet presence for keeping them then the folks at caudata.org as mentioned by u/ye_ol_chuckaboo below. They have a helpful forum where you can get info advice and answers to questions. they also have care-sheets. So i suggest you spend soem time looking there.

Some simple ideas would start with something like:

go get a 40 gallon aquarium or larger. or 3 - 4 foot plastic storage box or like this

whatever you use it will need a lid to keep things out and the salamander inside but it must allow air to pass through

the main thing here is that it doesnt need to be more than 15 inches tall but should have as much surface area (footprint) as possible. A good minimum is about 4 - 4.5 square feet. or anything at or above the "40 gallon size " on the standard US tank sizes chart here

buy some organic untreated (chemical free, fertilizer free) topsoil from a garden store.

plan to use at least 6 - 8 inches of soil at the bottom

​

order several cork bark hides like this logs or half logs will be good to partially bury and to keep on the surface so the animal can choose a hide.

​

get a *large* smooth sided glass ceramic water bowl like this or like this

​

use only smooth objects stones, smooth glass ceramic, plastic. no gravel no sharp rocks no sharp wood.

Moss and plants can help add humidity and attractiveness.

a water mister bottle is helpful to have around

​

feel free to ask any specific questions

Greyhounds love slumberballs! I got my 60 pound girl a extra large one since I knew she'd like a lot of room to stretch out on it, so you could either do that size or size up to a giant one to allow him to be more comfortable. Either size would work though.

Did you get toys yet? How about a raised feeder? In my experience with fostering and owning my girl, they don't seem to be too big on chew types of toys, but love squeaky toys. Mine loves this squeaky toy since the squeaker is super loud and strong, and this plush toy. A little while after we got her we also realized that while she wasn't into small balls like tennis balls or anything, she really loved big balls like soccer balls. I was sick of her destroying soccer balls quickly, so I got her one of these since it was recommeded to me by someone at the dog park, and that thing is seriously indestructible. As far as feeders go, if you haven't gotten one yet then I'd recommend this one. $20 and comes with two bowls. I've had it for a year now with no problems.

I think Kongs are a good start.

I think with young puppies though, depending on their food drive and motivations, they may or may not take to puzzle toys early, so don't feel badly if it's too much for them.

We actually didn't start our dog on puzzle feeders for any "intelligence" benefit - she had super high food drive and kept eating quickly without chewing, vomiting out her meal, then eating her vomit, so we bought a slow feeder bowl which was perfect for her at 4 months old. We fed her out of frozen-solid Kongs in the morning starting when she was 5 months old to help curb her separation anxiety, and then eventually bought a Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble. Even on the easiest settings, she struggled quite a bit as a puppy so we cut down the stoppers to make the flow easier. When she got better at the game, we re-bought the toy and made it substantially more difficult.

My younger dog, a Samoyed, actually doesn't eat out of toys. He has a lesser food drive and while he'll occasionally eat out of a toy, he prefers to just eat his food and work for better snacks (i.e. training for high value treats), so figuring out what your future dog's preferences are is definitely going to be something you'll have to do as your dog grows up. This dog did not eat out of Kongs until he was about 6 months old, either. He's just as smart, just not as insanely food driven as my first dog!

Go with the PVC set up. As some one who has used glass set ups and tried to find ways to alter them to make them better for BPs: don't bother. It costs more to make the set up 'right' and then to maintain it, because you will have to maintain it constantly. When I began, I thought I could engineer my way through and turned the tank on it's side, built a door, all kinds of things...and yeah, it worked, made a beautiful glass enclosure and I could see my snake, but it was never consistent enough to not have to check daily, like a PVC should be.

Stay away from glass. It's just not worth it.

Good choices on the reptile basics stuff.

This is the thermometer I use: Acu-Rite Indoor/Outdoor - it also keeps track of humidity.

Stay away from the Zoomed coconut husk stuff and go for ReptiChip - it's less dusty and slightly bigger chunks so it's safer for your BP. Plus that package is big and perfect for several full substrate change outs.

The water dish is not big enough - it's only 3 inches wide. Definitely won't help with humidity, unless you get 2-3 of them and put them around the set up. Get a ceramic dog bowl like this instead. It's big, won't run out quickly, and will let your BP soak if it wants to.

Use the reptibasic hides. They're sturdy and easy to clean. 'Decorative' hides are usually a pain to clean.

I've tried the decorative vine and it's no good; when your BP poops on it, the poop stays stuck and unless you're going to pull it out and sanitize it every time (the leaves are fiber, not plastic), it's just a pain to have.

Lastly, don't even bother with mice for your BP. Just start straight from rats. The sooner your BP is on rats, the easier life will be.

Harder to flip over. Having the bowl in it's own stand like this may also help.

Take a look at this to make sure she's not a little big overweight and being picky. If you're hand feeding you might as well be training, so either teach her some things or practice cues.

It's worth trying treat dispensing toys, like treat balls, stuffed kongs or such to completely remove the need for bowls.

It could be that your kitten needs to slow down how it's eating...you could try feeding smaller amounts more frequently throughout the day, or a slow feeder bowl. If it continues it could be a diet incompatibility and you may have to discuss what other diets to transition to with your vet. You can also see if your vet can recommend any probiotics that may help as well, those are typically not prescription (where I live they aren't) and they may have some on hand to sell you. Best of luck.

UPSKY Slow Feeder Dog Bowl Fun Feeder No Chocking Slow Feeder Bloat Stop Dog Cat Food Water Bowl with Funny Pattern https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07HVS95GR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7thmDbBRVSJRQ

my black lab pup does this. it's pretty adorable, but it makes a huge mess and tile is super slippery when wet. i haven't done this myself yet, but a friend recommend i try a raised feeding tray, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Suncast-Elevated-Feeding-Tray-Large/dp/B0015QC4SO

In this case, it is really hard to give advice, I would want to watch all of the interactions and level of guarding, aggression and injuries. I would be concerned about getting you hurt. Generally, I like advising the book you have been working with, beyond that, I would suggest working with an IAABC or CPDT-KA trainer/ consultant.

I do have a couple exercises that you might consider in the mean time, if it is safe, it's yer choice - susan garrett, normally I use kevlar gloves to protect my hand with dogs who will make me bleed. If you can be safe, I would consider switching to hand feeding.

Otherwise, it is a management issue until you can bring a consultant into your home. I would only feed in a crate with the door closed with a bowl attached to the door. I like the Snap Y Fit bowls for this propose. Normally, I have my dogs go into the crate and offer a sit with their nose inside the invisible door boundary before I drop their food into the bowl.

Whatever you do, keep your self safe and try to prevent instances where the dog practices the behavior, this becomes a self reinforcing behavior.

Have you tried a slow-feed bowl? I have two rescue dogs, littermates, abandoned at very young age and lucky to be alive. However when they were in the rescue centre they had to fight to eat and drink against other, bigger dogs so continued this behaviour after I took them in. Slow-feed bowls got them to slow down and eat/drink at a better pace and help reduce the amount of air the dog intakes when swallowing, meaning less burping. Something like this is what I mean: https://www.amazon.co.uk/JasGood-Eco-friendly-Durable-Non-Toxic-Preventing/dp/B01F8L63ZG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_199_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0A7T83D1NQB5VVKQS511

i personally have these for daphne but i dont think shes ever tried to tip her bowls. something like this might be harder for her to get her little snoot under to flip

i also found these and im squealing with how cute they are. i think i need them lol

Thanks for the replies. These are all the things we bought so far:

Bed

Feeder

Leash

Toy

I think I'm going to buy a harness and cage in person because I want to make sure its the right fit.

Oh and here's a picture of the little guy :)

Ugh! My lovies did that all. the. time! It drove me nuts! I first got a water dispenser like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Company-Feeder-Accessory-Medium-Colors/dp/B0002DJW4U Since it clips into the cage, the little squirts couldn't tip it over. Refilling and cleaning it are kind of a pain, though, because you end up spilling water when you take it out of the cage.

I'd recommend a bowl like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Stoneware-Hamster-Bowl-3-Inch/dp/B0040B9NOY This is the one I'm using now, and I love it. It's heavy, so the bird can't turn it over, even if the bird stands on the edge of the bowl. And it's so much easier to clean! I put it on the floor of the cage (away from the perches) it works great!

Most Labs do tend to eat with gusto. Make sure he's getting enough food. They do make some different food bowls to supposedly slow dogs down.

Interactive slow pet feeder

Skidstop slow feeder bowl

Gobble stopper bowl addition

Buster dog maze

I personally have had success with the treat type balls.

Kong wobbler

Kibble Nibbler

Our newly adopted bunnies are very tame about their water dish, it's got an amazing clamp that's secured to the xpen. They can't move it about, and it's at a height that food/hay generally can't fit in. We gave them their choice between that and the bottle, they won't touch the bottle. :)

http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-40-20-Snapy-Water-Ounces/dp/B0012GTZVQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342519600&sr=8-1&keywords=midwest+dish

Icecubes are an easy way for them to get hydrated and also help with teething. Can you get a water dish that won't tip over (like this) it might make it easier for them to drink out of.

I'm sure your puppers is fine, most dog enjoy or need a trick to be granted their meals but they are making these dishes now that are stimulating for them. Like this:
JASGOOD Dog Feeder Slow Eating Pet Bowl Eco-Friendly Durable Non-Toxic Preventing Choking Healthy Design Bowl for Dog Pet Stop Bloat Bowl https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F8L63ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ctHXBbYS06AYM

for the water bowl get something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GULX04/

lifesaver. i took out the floating part + put a stainless steel bowl inside just to make it easier to clean.

also just wait til you get into shiba adolescence. goodluck. !

It's just like losing weight for a human - eat less, move more. Keep the foods she likes, just give her less of them. Talk with the vet about 1) what is her healthy weight, 2) how many calories should she eat to maintain that weight. Then do some research on the foods she's getting to figure out their calorie content.
 
While there are other cats around, it's going to be difficult to control fatcat's intake. So maybe focus on playing with her more? Chase the laser pointer for a couple minutes, feather on a string, etc. Remember that any activity is more calories she's expending, so it doesn't have to be the kitty equivalent of a marathon!
 
Once she's by herself, try feeding several small portions of regular cat food per day, so she's not actually hungry in between. Basically, snacking all day. Some days it's only going to work out that she gets fed at breakfast, when you come home from work, and at bedtime, but that's OK.
 
For canned food (which has fewer calories per weight than kibble, so use more of it), take that spoonful and s-p-r-e-a-d it around her bowl, smush it down a bit so she has to take more time working to eat. It will at least occupy her longer.
For kibble, how about a slow-eating bowl or mat? They have ridges which contain the kibble and prevent scarfing... again requiring more time and attention from kitty. She's eating longer, maybe she thinks she's eating more?
Here's an example; there are many different designs: https://www.amazon.com/JASGOOD-Eco-Friendly-Durable-Non-Toxic-Preventing/dp/B01F8L63ZG/ref

We have a Snap'y fit which is way more secure than the hoop. The lip of the bowl literally snaps into the semi-circle and it is actually a huge pain to get out, haha. You have to tug directly out super hard, pushing down/up doesn't do much.

P.S. (It didn't fit in the other post!) I've now tried the second feeding device that I got, the Company of Animals Interactive Feeder, and I am very happy with it; Indra seems to be too! I am alternating between feeding him in this and the Kong Wobbler. It definitely slows the process down and he has to work at getting his food, which is apparently the "mental stimulation" thing. :~)

My parents got their one dog this bowl (it's a little less crazy than the other one, lol), but it actually does work pretty well.

I use this bowl to slow down my boxer mix: http://www.amazon.ca/OurPets-Premium-DuraPet-Slow-Medium/dp/B001NJ4PVW

It looks like there are also some other options for bowls like that, like this one: http://outwardhound.com/shop/dog-bowls

If the problem is him eating too fast (which many dogs "vacuum" food when eating too fast!), try one of those bowls that forces the dog to hunt down the food and make them eat slower. Something similar to this.

A friend of mine had pretty good luck with something similar to help her dogs slow down when eating, but I haven't tried any personally.

Edit: formatting

Consider getting something like this. You can pick your size. They are relatively cheap. Hard to tip over and I think they are an attractive solution.

Ethical 5-Inch Stoneware Crock Dog Dish

I'm pretty sure this is the exact one I bought. My dog is about 65lbs and I went with the 20oz size, although he has another larger water dish available when he's not in the kennel.

What do you use to feed her meals? Would something like this slow feeder work for her? I've heard it keeps dogs occupied for a long time, and it's good mental stimulation which can be just as tiring as physical activity.

I have a few of the below bowls in the small size and definitely recommend them. They're $3 and have a lower lip on one side so my hedgie can easily access the goods

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035H9FB0/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I found these bowls for pet food just randomly searching through Amazon one day and thought it would make a nice chalk bowl and wanted to share. The one I got is the 4 cup size.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MD3NLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PXxYDb12A5GV5

We tried so many and found none that he went crazy for. So we went back to cheap nature's domain from Costco. He ate it about as well as he ate anything.


I guess poodles are so smart that if things aren't a challenge, it's not worth it to him. It was really frustrating for a long, long time. It still is, but we found a system that worked. Kong stuffed with kibble and a tiny bit of Kong stuffin spray peanut butter for breakfast. Dinner in a slow feeder or that treat ball linked earlier, or as "treats" for training. My vet tells me he is the absolute perfect body type, and he can hike 20km with a pack no problem. So I guess he's just a princess.


My wheaten isn't a chow hound either. But I mean, he didn't cause himself to throw up multiple times a day for months because he refused to eat. So that was a win.

Adding to the snuffle mat suggestions - you can get all sorts of puzzles feeders too. Or for wet food use a Kong - freeze it for extra difficulty!

We use these:

GREEN Interactive Feeder, Large https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009CKHXYU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ih.YCb8E5RS2S

Nina Ottosson Dog Tornado Treat Puzzle Dog Toy by Outward Hound https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07239T47Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ih.YCbFX6XDKA

The second looks harder but the first actually takes him long and is easier for us to set up! But we try to use both to change things up.

Yep, my dog would do the inhale-barf-repeat cycle with a regular bowl. Got one of these slow feeder bowls, and it's made a night and day difference - not only does she eat slower, but her overall digestion is actually doing better.

I got it on Amazon for $5. It's an add-on item, but they sell larger ones that come with Prime shipping for about $10. It's great! No more spills in the crate!

There is a thing called a Portion Pacer, which is a heavy stainless steel ball that prevents fast eating. My Great Dane uses it and doesn't throw up due to food anymore.

So like one of those bowl lift things for large breed dogs that have back and neck issues?

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015QC4SO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hBlnybRM3PX4Q

I'm wondering if maybe a no-spill water bowl, like this, would help?

I use this one. It's not what I would call cute, and I don't particularly love it, but my notoriously picky greyhound (who will not eat off the floor, or out of smaller bowls) likes it.

These work very well and would likely be safer

He's adorable! One thing that you should try is to raise the level of the food bowl. This has helped Rex immensely and prevents most of the hiccups that he was getting that would sometimes go too far and have him throw up.

We have one similar to this, which is just a 4" rise.
http://www.amazon.com/Our-Pets-4-Inch-Signature-Series/dp/B000K78HRQ

Give it a try!

For walking, get a harness. Bulldogs don't have much for a neck and collars can slip-off easily.

Also, get yourself a portable dog bowl - (I like this one ) and bring a small water-bottle on walks.

My dog was inhaling her food to the point of horking and gagging every time until I got her a slow feeder [similar to this one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2BEPD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yRb-Bb7Z93DRC) but it got too easy for her. Lately I've been feeding her food in [this puzzle] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711Y9Y8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7Sb-BbY9PZQM1) where she has to remove the bones before getting a few pieces at a time.

Congrats! Purple Penguin

Under $15 my puppy's bowls are currently on the floor and I can tell he doesn't like extending his neck to drink and eat food.

Cheap item for $1.13

A lot of pet stores will have them.

Also Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Portion-Pacer-Stainless/dp/B0028QHN3G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523111262&sr=8-1&keywords=metal+ball+dog+food

I use one of these for my golden and it slows him down. I also use a Kong wobbler to feed him dinner. Occasionally I'll use a snoop, which also works well.

Alternatively, you could stick two spoons in the bowl in an X fashion. There are tons of ways to slow fast chompers down so they don't get bloat!

Second vote for the Tug a jug, Buster Maze also the Mushroom are also good the Bobs A lot Also works great as it has variable settings for difficulty. Puzzles like this are great but they tend to be useless once the dog figures it out.

My cat started puking after years of having him, took him to the vet and there was nothing wrong with him at all. The vet suggested one of those slow feeding bowls because he might be eating too fast.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HVS95GR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M3DJDb9J3ZG4V

It worked like a charm!

As for the peeing do you have one litter box or two? If you have one get a second and soak ALL your clothes in an enzyme remover.

Here's a couple on amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Corporation-BLX0758-Aquarium-20-Ounce/dp/B00063KH86/
http://www.amazon.com/Ware-Plastic-Slide-N-Lock-Small-Crock/dp/B0046TMGA8/
http://www.amazon.com/Living-World-Lock-Crock-6-Ounce/dp/B005F3FCTQ/

What I was recommending below was something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ethical-5-Inch-Stoneware-Crock-Dish/dp/B00025YU3Q/

Same here, I had to look it up to get some relief.

I was having the same issue, my vet just told me to clean off a big fat rock and put it in his bowl so he has to eat around it. She also suggested if I was weirded out by doing that, I could buy one of these. Rock worked though!

My perpetually hungry chocolate lab reacted very positively to [the DogMaze](https://www.amazon.com/Buster-KR274091-Dog- Maze/dp/B005QJXSHC). She doesn't like it, but it slowed her eating down dramatically and, unlike just about every feeding toy I could find, it's made out of one solid piece of thick plastic rather than many fiddly parts that can be chewed on.

If you haven't, might be worth a try?

You could always just buy this to help the dog slow down when eating.

They make special bowls to slow dogs down. OP those are much cheaper than surgery

EDIT: here’s an example. https://www.amazon.com/OurPets-DuraPet-Premium-Stainless-Steel/dp/B001NJ4PVW

I had to get my dog this bowl because he used to eat ridiculously fast, you'd think we were starving him. He has mellowed out with age and can eat with a normal bowl now but his excitement just before a meal shall always remain.

Maybe try a "non-spill" water bowl, like a road refresher?

We have some stainless steel balls that have what I believe is sand in them. Like these:

http://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Portion-Pacer-Stainless/dp/B0028QHN3G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422316513&sr=8-5&keywords=food+ball+for+dogs

Yeah it's this one. It slows him down from about 15 to 90 seconds.

I recommend them. When we got our corgi he wolfed down food so fast we were scared he would get sick. Corgis tend to be pretty food focused. We use this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F3AZ5PG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_DfsKxbF90AV4C

This works well with my boxer. OurPets Premium DuraPet Slow Feed Dog Bowl Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ4PVW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_lEKqxbVFBK0JR

For the option that won't kill your dog...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F8L63ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k6pTBb2WASFR1

Here are the agility and the other style I meant was a maze another maze.

Of course the agility one is harder so it depend on your dog capacity at solving puzzles. My sisters dog would die of starvation :)

They sell food bowls for this.

JASGOOD Dog Feeder Slow Eating Pet Bowl Eco-Friendly Durable Non-Toxic Preventing Ch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F8L63ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_srrTBb26W9GWP

Slow Feed Non-Skid Dog Bowl Large (Blue/White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009O3CFES/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_gsrTBb2N5YDQZ

Outward Hound Slow Feeder Dog Bowl Fun Feeder Stop Bloat Bowl for Dogs, Large, Teal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPKNRF0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_OqrTBb863HXHA

Try This Bowl, it's worked wonders for my adopted dog, who would wolf her food down so fast she'd sometimes get sick when I first got her. This bowl increased her eating time from about 10 seconds to about 3 minutes. Not a huge amount of time, you might think, but for my other dog (who has always eaten at a "normal" leisurely pace), his eating time increased from about 1 minute to 5-6 mins with the bowl.

Our dog figured it out when we tried it. Then our trainer recommended one of the stainless steel Omega balls and he couldn't pick it up if he tried. It's slowed him down a lot too.

Amazon! There are a ton of options when you search raised dog bowls. This one is adjustable to different heights. We have an 8 month Goldendoodle. She needed something off the floor, but we also have a collie/pit mix who is 15 years old. So, we have his set to a shorter position.


Pet Zone Designer Diner Adjustable Elevated Dog Bowls - Adjusts to 3 Heights, 2.75", 8", 12'' (Raised Dog Dish with Double Stainless Steel Bowls) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TV1A6IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Rls3Db2KN4CDF

They make special food bowls with large round "prongs" that stick up to slow down fast eating dogs.

My sister had a golden retriever that would eat so fast he almost choked, so she got one of these bowls and never had any problems.

Here... this is so much safer than rocks.

Go to petco or petsmart. Sometimes they have them in the reptile area and other times in the hamster/gerbil area. I've seen them in brown, blue, green, grey, pink, and a few other colors.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040B9NOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gwltxbD01M2Q2

I had to get something similar for my dogs. Otherwise they scarf down their food in under 10 seconds.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F3AZ5PG

Edit: added a link

Green feeder? http://www.amazon.com/Northmate-101027-Interactive-Feeder/dp/B009CKHXYU They really need to use their tongues on it.

This one is made by Northmate and is called the "Interactive Slow Pet Feeder" -- dinner time went from less than a minute to about 15 minutes.

http://www.amazon.com/Northmate-101027-Interactive-Feeder/dp/B009CKHXYU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398011373&sr=8-1&keywords=northmate

MidWest Critter Nation Single Level, two level optional depending on budget.

• http://smile.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462676314&sr=8-1&keywords=midwest+critter+nation
  
  Space Pod
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=514yBZHbQ1L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Oxbow Regal Rat food
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Oxbow-Regal-Rat-Food-3-Pound/dp/B000GABM1K/ref=pd_sim_199_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51DFDAhgD3L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR113%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Water bottles
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/LIXIT-Proof-Glass-Water-Bottle/dp/B0002QI5WM/ref=pd_sim_199_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Wb3MLRcfL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR135%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  
  Litter box
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Ware-Plastic-Lock-N-Litter-Small-Colors/dp/B000HG96EI/ref=pd_sim_199_21?ie=UTF8&dpID=517FLhZC5FL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Hammock
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/ProSelectA-Polka-Dot-Cage-Hammocks/dp/B005N11YLK/ref=pd_sim_199_16?ie=UTF8&dpID=51lb4SYKutL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Food bowl
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Kaytee-Stoneware-Hamster-Bowl-Inch/dp/B0040B9NOY/ref=sr_1_11?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462676611&sr=1-11&keywords=food+dish

Get a slow-eat dog bowl

example

You need one of these:

Slow food bowl: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F8L63ZG

I use a gobble stopper. Seems to work in slowing my dog down.

There's also this Northmate green feeder, but I have never used it.

Slow feeders are an option too. This is the one we have, for example. Increases our dude's feeding time from about 45 seconds (standard bowl) to over 5 minutes.

Amazon!

https://www.amazon.com/Ethical-5-Inch-Stoneware-Crock-Dish/dp/B00025YU3Q

I️ just got into doing the HG/DB method from researching this sub. Can’t tell you how my roasts have turned out as today was the first batch, but here’s my set up. The slow feeder bowl is supposed to distribute the heat better. I️ also have an air popper but am not fond of the small batch size.

OurPets DuraPet Slow Feed Premium Stainless Steel Dog Bowl https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ4PVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4fMbAb2RD4M8H

Wagner Power Products 503008 HT 1000 1,200-Watt Heat Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KhMbAb9GGK7NX

Wow, that is expensive.

A non-spill travel bowl with a floating centre section (which is designed to prevent water sloshing about when the bowl is in your car) does about the same job and they're about a tenner.

...they were originally designed as travel bowls but as a side effect they only allow access to a small quantity of water at a time which stops the dog making a mess. The level of water available remains constant as the floating section drops down in the bowl.

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EDIT: Video

Be aware that eating too much, too fast and exercising immediately after eating can potentially cause bloat. My vet recommended no exercise for 1 hour after eating - so I usually feed my pup post-walk.

Sudden changes to his diet can cause tummy upsets and diarrhoea. Not chewing isn't really an issue, just a side effect of how fast he eats.

If it's dry food, bear in mind it swells when damp, so a stomach packed full of dry food can become over-full and he'll puke to relieve pressure - if that sounds possible, you could reduce the portion size and increase number of meals per day so he can't overstuff himself in one sitting.

Check out Green Interactive Feeder - my pup takes around 20 minutes to clear his.

Maybe mix it in a little [what we do with our pugs]. My older one doesn't like the new allergen-free food, so we mix it a bit with his previous one.

Also for any pug owners out there, this dog bowl has done wonders for keeping extra shit from getting stuck in his face-folds.

Props on the new cat, I love our little adopted girl kitty. All she does is eat, cuddle, and poop a whole lot.

One of my shibas throws up sometimes after eating but that is because she is eating too fast. We got her one of those slow feeder bowls (like this), which solved the problem.

Needs this, seriously!