Reddit mentions: The best dog collars, harneses & leashes

I rescued a german shepherd mix when he was about 2 months old and he just turned 2 years! He's awesome!

Join /r/dogs for great community, support, and advice.

Here are some of my dog's favorites if you're lost on what to Wishlist on Amazon:

• Hands down the best ball for fetch, if he likes fetch
  
• And the launcher I like this one b/c you can just throw it in a backpack and it'll zip all the way closed (I like to keep a backpack w/ my dog's park toys, some treats, poop bags, wet ones/purell, and his shot records) The best thing about the chuck-it is that you don't have to pick up a slobbery ball.
  
• Three very good chew bones
  
• Advantage Multi if you're not often taking him onto tick-heavy hikes. If you need tick control, get Frontline and Interceptor for heartworm.
  
• The best dog frisbee and I've tried a half dozen. Doesn't fly the best, but it's the most durable, safe, and flies great with a little practice.
  
• This Car seat cover is great
  
• Flexi leash is really handy when used appropriately.
  
• Poo bags can never have enough of. and you go through them pretty quick.
  
• Dog backpack great for burning off energy on walks/hikes, and makes them feel like they're doing an important job! I have this one in black. works great.
  
• Collapsible water bowl handy for hikes/camping/outings
  
• european style leather lead (leash) I'm preferential to the feel of leather for leashes/collars. And the european is absolutely the best - adjustable length and super easy to tether them to a pole/fence if you're eating outdoors or running into a store or something (of course use common sense when doing this!)
  
• Harness I'm not a fan of harnesses - they're annoying to put on/take off and just encourage a dog to pull more. But if you want him to pull, towing you on a skateboard or something (my dog loves this) then it's great
  Furminator GSD mixes don't need regular brushing, but this one works great for shedding season
  Dremel for nail trimming GSD = black nails, a bit trickier to trim. I use this with lots of treats to put a nice round edge and take off a bit of length of my dog's nails. works good but get him accustomed to it slowly and with lots of treats. Pretty soon he won't mind.
  *Zukes are great treats for training
  
• Bowls that don't tip over. Easy to wash. can't break. My pick.
  
• Big crate I use for vacations when I bring my dog but need to leave him in a hotel room or something. It's big and bulky but I like to give him room to move around comfortably.
  
• A good shampoo I like hydrosurge unscented but it's not on Amazon =\
  
• deodorizer I give my dog a little spritz between baths if he starts to get funky
  
• A shower head like this makes bathing super painless. I just bring my dog in the shower w/ me along with some treats and it's quick and easy.
  
• a scrubber like this gets my dog cleaner than I can with my hands. I found one at petco I like
  
  
  Wow I kind of didn't realize I have so much shit for my dog. But he's family so...anyway. Also costco has great beds for $20ish (comparably $80+ from a petstore) They also carry Frontline, lots of treats (buscuits, duck breast jerkey - the best!) good food (Iams ProActive goes on sale once in a while, and they also carry Natures Domain salmon/sweet potato food that's really good).

In what way would selection bias apply? Honestly asking for clarification.


Eta: I wrote a novel. Just...a warning.

>Also, as a force free dog trainer with 12 years experience, what is your better suggestion? Do you have any methods, techniques, regimes, secrets and protocols to share?

I've had really good luck with a few things.

Firstly, having someone other than the standard walking person (so, usually me) switch in. This helps for a few reasons, it gives the owners a break so they can reduce their frustration level, it gives me a chance to assess the dog hands on and to start figuring out what methods I'll use, and it's a change in routine which gives you the opportunity to modify the rules when the dog is more receptive - she doesnt have a habit of pulling with me, so I'll have an easier time putting some base level work in than the owner will. (This is no shade on the owners at all, to be clear.)

Second step, with this dog I'd start in on the relaxation protocol at home. It really sounds like they've tried the "tired dog is a good dog" stuff, so sometimes you need to switch that up and teach the dog how to calm themselves. I've met a lot of really high energy drivey dogs who have absolutely no idea how to actually be calm. This works really well for them, and helps reduce the stress level while occupying their brain.

Third step would be the harness issue. It's not sustainable for anyone who walks a dog to come home sore and aching every time... especially since it's really likely the dog is feeling the same and its contributing to the issue. I'd try a better fitting harness, a rear clip type, or one with lots of places to clip in. (1, 2, 3)

Ok, into the real practical stuff. How would I personally address the pulling?

Ironically, I'd start by not going on walks for a few weeks. OP mentions the dog is stressed on walks, that anything other than pulling straight forward like a train causes the dog to show stress signs. So you need to start by reducing that stress. It takes TIME for those stress hormones to dissipate, and daily walks mean shes getting a fresh dose every time. Ideally the meds OP tried would have helped (Trying a different med would be another option - different meds work differently for each individual. One bad go doesnt mean it's not worth trying another!) but since they haven't...reduce the stress another way.

This doesnt mean you stop exercising the dog. Obviously that's not an option. But do it differently. Will the dog play fetch? Drive to a big feild outside of town and do that. Would the dog like agility? Take a fun class. Would the dog like swimming? Drive to a lake and try it out. Take the dog to a fenced area and play chase with them. If your dog likes dog parks and you're comfortable with the ones near you then do that. (I know dog parks are controversial basically everywhere, but they work well for some dogs. That's up to OP.)

If you have no options use a flirt pole in the backyard, for physical exercise.

But shake up what you're doing.

And then you address mental exercise, which is often overlooked (although it sounds like OP has probably tried some of this). Teach a new trick, ideally a silly one so it's fun bonding time rather than "super serious" training time. Use puzzle feeders, DIY ones if you're on a budget. Do a doggy scavenger hunt for toys or their dinner. Do a scent work class. Etc.

Take the focus away from leash walking entirely for a bit to give a reset. At least with the owner holding the leash.

Once you've got the dogs overall baseline of stress a bit lower you start from zero on leash walking.

By starting over in your basement with no leash. Just set the dog free in a big empty room (use what you've got - if that's your living room with furniture pushed back, whatever. Itll do.) Have treats, but dont direct the dog. Let them be distracted. Whenever pup comes near you use a marker (word or clicker, dealer's choice) and drop a treat. Then you move away.

Slowly amble around the room. No pattern, change directions. Whenever the dog moves to be near, mark and treat.

When the dog is obviously purposefully being near you start walking. Every step they take with you mark and reward. Stop before the dog is bored. Ideally, when they're still enjoying the game.

Do that for a week, use a toy to reward with tug or fetch if your dog will play. But keep it fun and light.

Then you do the usual, move through the steps of basic leash walking, still no leash though.

I'd also add in some silky leash practice, seperate from the leash walking practice. So she learns there is an option to pulling and that giving in to pressure, rather than leaning in (opposition reflex) is better.

So in all, itd be a big plan with lots of moving parts. I have had a lot of luck with dogs like this. Even if it's just a walking client who isnt interested in training, if I'm walking the dog 3-5 times a week (30 minute walks) I can usually see a serious improvement within a month.

Since I dont have any relationship with the dog initially I usually "cheat" and use hotdog, chicken, and "life rewards" like running, play, and the 300 peck method.

If the dog figures out that they can get to run a bit, or play chase, or tug if they walk nice for a few steps then I'm past the tough part. Sure, our first walks dont get very far, but since I use activity as part of the reward the dog is still getting exercise. I have not had much luck with the typical "stand still and wait them out" methods because of this - if I'm paid to walk the dog I'm not paid to stand still with the dog.

Lastly. And probably the bit people will roast me for. Some dogs hate standard walks. Whether that's because the dog find city noise stressful, is reactive to dogs or people, is anxious, etc. Some dogs just do better if you exercise them, mentally and physically, in other ways.

I've had a very small number of clients really see their dog blossom after cutting out normal walks.

Often these dogs do fine hiking, walking in nature outside of cities (where they're basically not going to meet other dogs or strangers), or just taking classes, running in fields, playing with flirt toys.

Its worth considering. If the point of "walking the dog" comes down to a benefit to the dog...but the dog isnt actually benefiting, then replacing the walk with other options can be the right answer.

We used a method called "Make Like A Tree" when training my GSD to walk nicely on a leash. Your dog is definitely not too old for it.

Start at your door like you're about to go for a walk. Hold the leash low enough so that it gets taut as soon as her shoulder passes your thigh. She should not have very much room to go in front of you at all before she is pulling. As soon as you open the door, she's probably going to try to walk out in front of you, right? So stand your ground, hold her leash in that position and don't move. Let her pull and tug and lunge out the door and completely ignore her. Have a treat on hand so that as soon as she realizes her efforts are futile and turns her attention back to you, you can reward her. Lure her back to your side with a treat (this may need to be a really high-value treat if she's a serious puller). As soon as she's sitting by your side in a heel position take one step out the door. If she immediately lunges ahead of you, just freeze and wait until she turns her attention towards you again. If it's taking her a long time to focus on you, you can try making funny noises, whistling, and saying her name to try and shorten the time that she isn't listening. Repeat the same thing as before, luring her back to your side and take another step. Keep doing this, just in your front yard. I've found that it helps to set a timer on my phone and keep it in my back pocket. I tend to get frustrated with my pup when he doesn't listen (don't we all?) so I set a timer for 15 minutes. After that, we go inside for a little while and try again later. You being frustrated is going to cause you to expect more of the dog and be rougher on the leash, both of which will just cause her training to go slower. This is a pretty lengthy process that requires a lot of patience, but it's so worth it in the end.

Once she understands the concept of staying by your side in front of your house, start going around the neighborhood or down the street. When she's by your side continually praise her in a happy, cheery voice. I've found it helpful to teach my boy "Watch me!" so that whenever I give him the command, he will look up at me. This is great for when I see another person or dog approaching him and know he is going to want to pull. I say watch me ahead of time and continually feed him treats until we are past the distraction. If your dog does pull, just do the same thing as the beginning- freeze and hold your ground until she's back in the heel position.

I would recommend getting a martingale collar for your pup, or a front-latching harness. The martingale collar will tighten a little when the dog pulls, which I have found to help them understand why you are stopping. It's also better for their neck, as it distributes the weight of their pulling across the entire circumference of the neck, instead of right on their trachea. The added bonus is that it self-tightens, so she can't slip out of it if she starts throwing her head around in frustration. Don't confuse this with a choke chain or prong collar or anything. The martingale can only tighten a little bit, and it's usually made out of heavier fabric, so it will loosen as soon as your pup stops pulling. The front-latching harness is really helpful because it will turn your dog to face you whenever he pulls, but cinching across his shoulders and not letting him walk any further. This is great, because you'll want to lure him into a heel position every time he gets ahead of you on the leash and what better way to do that then have him already face you! It's also useful if your pup is an especially strong puller. The harness will stop her motion as soon as the leash is taut, so it's much easier for you to control her if she's really strong. I had a ton of success with the front-latching harness and my pup. Hope this helps!

Walking with the leash attached to the collar can be harmful. This is an interesting article with a lot of information that explains the potential issue that can arise from using a collar. A dog can receive neck injuries, ear and eye issues, hypothyroidism, malfunctioning in the forelimbs' nervous system, and behavioral problems. It concludes by urging dog owners to buy a harness.

Also note, many think that harnesses make dogs pull more, but this isn't true. The harnesses with an attachment point in the back are what do this because it gives the dog more leverage. If the only times your dog is pulling is when she panics, then using a back attachment point is viable, but you want sturdy harness with a grip then.

​

If you are interested in some alternatives (based on the information you've given), here are some I'd recommend:

Simple No-Pull Harness - I used one like this at one point. This one is really lightweight and non-obstructive. If you need a harness that doesn't restrict movement at all, this is the one. The attachment point in front is what makes it so the dog doesn't pull.

Gentle Leader - This isn't a harness, and it certainly isn't a muzzle, and it works well. I used to have a Boxer, and I used this for him. It stopped him from pulling, and if he did pull it just brought his attention back to me. Overall, it is useful and performs quite well.

RUFFWEAR Front Range - I use this one now and it is great. This one is fairly simple, it can get dirty if you go through a lot of water, mud, or the like, but mainly performs well. It has attachment points on the front and back, reflective trim, can be hand washed, and has a neat little pocket where you can attach ID tags. Plus it has a good amount of padding that makes it comfortable.

RUFFWEAR Web Master - This is one I have also used and it has done a lot for me, so I may be biased, but is a wonderful harness. I mainly use it for hiking only because there are too many noises in the neighborhood that could spook him (thats's where a front attachment comes in handy) My boy, Odin, doesn't pull much when we hike, so I can get away with the no front attachment point. It has three straps instead of just two, reflective trim, can be hand washed, and has a really sturdy handle, but it doesn't have the little ID pocket like the Front Range (not a big deal though). The handle is what is unique for this, you can use it to lift your dog (especially when hiking) or just hold them still. I also have a nervous dog, and sometimes if he gets spooked I will use this to hold on to him and calm him down.

​

Honestly, my favorite brand is RUFFWEAR because of their harnesses and all the other gear and toys they have, but Gentle Leaders and that Simple No-Pull are both good options instead of a collar.

Hey Amelia, I'm Tina welcome to raoa! I was a Nanny for a few years as well and miss it, but my family moved across country! How old are the children you take care of? Cool intro and contest idea- you've already hopped into a great start in the community!

Here are 5 things that would greatly help me:

1- LED dog collar. My boyfriend and I take our dogs down to the field and let them run away, but we lose them sometimes cause they get excited hearing a bird. We have one collar already but they never run in the same direction, so having another would be great.

2- Dog Car Seatbelt clip. Another item for my rambunctious pups who enjoy car rides like it's no one's business. Sometimes they get in our face or want to be on our lap and it's distracting and I'm afraid of it causing an accident but there's currently no way to keep them secluded to the back.

3- This puzzle book. I love mazes, sudoku, and puzzles to keep my brain working haha

4- Pop Socket for my phone. I'm quite clumsy and drop my phone pretty often. Plus, it's mermaid!

5- Sloth Skirt. I love wearing skirts and feeling pretty, plus it's got sloths all over it!




I'm gonna nominate /u/LaLocaChristina because she's been here and always contributes positivity and is very generous when gifting. She's also taking a big leap and moving so this could lift her spirits if she needs it because I'm pretty sure everyone could agree that moving can be stressful!

Hi there! My dog has a very similar attitude regarding car rides- she thinks they’re sketchy at best. At this point, we’ve done a 9 hour car ride together, and a week from today we’ll start a cross country move that’ll total around 35 hours of driving. Here are my tips!

• Does she get carsick? That’s the reason my dog isn’t a huge fan of cars, she gets nauseous even on the shortest trip. Benadryl certainly does help, just make sure you’re dosing correctly! It also makes her sleepy, which is a bonus. On our last car trip she slept for 4 hours straight, and she only got sick in the last 5 minutes of the trip because we didn’t keep up with the Benadryl. Some people on here are super uncomfortable with giving dogs any OTC medicine, but I’ve been told by multiple vets and our dog trainer that Benadryl is safe. I’m also pregnant and I feel like if it’s gentle enough for me to have, it’s probably okay for her, lol.
  
  
• If she does get carsick but it can be under control with Benadryl, I’d offer high-value, long lasting chews or filled Kongs. Ours loves tracheas and gets the occasional no-hide, which is a rawhide alternative. She also super loves frozen Kongs filled with cream cheese and pumpkin, or anything with hard boiled eggs- they may make your car a little smelly but they’ll keep her occupied.
  
  
• If you can look at your route ahead of time and plan a stop in the middle somewhere where your dog can run, either somewhere like a dog park or a rest stop (you can use a long-line leash and a harness!), that could be beneficial for her too! If you don’t plan on making this sort of stop that’s okay, too. One or two potty stops should be more than enough, and really since she’s fully grown she could last that long without a potty stop.
  
  
• Regarding environmental conditions, I have two tips! The first is to choose one of two things: a soft crate or a harness with a doggy seatbelt. If your dog is small enough, I’d recommend a soft crate. This will keep the pup contained and not able to climb all over you. My dog is a very tall 55 pounds, and my car is way too small for that size of soft crate, so she has a harness that she wears in the car (with the ring on the back) and we bought these seatbelts from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Vehicle-Seatbelt-Harness/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1510160438&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=dog+seat+belt&psc=1). My only complaint with them is that once, she stepped on the part of the car that the seatbelt clips into and was able to get out, but I just reached back and clipped her in.
  
  
• I would also suggest, no matter whether you use the soft crate or harness, to lay down a blanket or some towels that smell like home. These will serve a dual purpose of comforting your dog as well as making for easy clean up in the event of barf.
  
  I hope this helps!! If you have any questions or need clarification let me know!

Got it. Sorry for the knee jerk reaction, without the info that you were taking her from a deceased owner it seemed like just an impulse decision to adopt a difficult breed.

Here we go. When you get the dog, start with a Two Week Shutdown to ensure the smoothest introduction of your dog to their new environment. This is super important and something i WISH I knew about when I adopted my dog.

General Dog Care Checklist from the ASPCA.

The bare necesseities of supplies:

• Premium-quality dog food. [Taste of the Wild](https://www.amazon.com/Taste-Wild-Prairie-Formula-30-Pound/dp/B000W5SLB8/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&amp;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1485423771&amp;amp;sr=1-4&amp;amp;keywords=dog+food) is very popular for being affordable and high-quality<br />

• Food dish
  
• Water bowl
  
• Toys, toys and more toys, including safe chew toys. KONGS are wonderful for keepiing your dog occupied. Fill with wet food or PB, freeze, and give to dog.
  
• Brush & comb for grooming, including flea comb. Look into breed specific brushes
  
• Collar with license and ID tag
  
• Leash, Easy Walk Harness
  
• Training crate
  
• Dog bed (check Groupon for great deals) or box with warm blanket or towel
  
• Dog toothbrush
  
  I don't have experience with huskies but I have heard over and over how they are a difficult dog to own, and require around 2 hours of intense exercise daily. I found this Breed Discussion which may be informative for you. Do you have a dog park nearby? That would be great if its a fenced in area, because huskies are "escape artists".
  
  Honestly, like myself, a lot of were quick to jump the gun on you and didn't offer any real help. I would suggest posting a new post with a title like: "Inherited a husky whose owner died, what are some tips and resources I can read to give this dog a great life?". Definitely include that there are no shelters nearby. Are you in the US?
  
  Hope I helped atleast a bit. If you use the "search" function on this subreddit and search for "husky", you will see users who have "flair" saying that they own a siberian husky. You could PM them and I'm sure they would be more helpful than me. Also try posting in r/siberianhusky/. How old is the dog? Pics?
  
  Sorry again for the insensitive reply at first. I really wish you luck and if you have any questions I'm happy to help!

Do you mean she pulls/fights/struggles to go see them because she wants to see them (in an excited way) or in an aggressive fearful way? I didn't get a reactivity read from this post, but correct me if I'm wrong.

Your problem is three fold. 1.) your dog needs more exercise. It's a vicious cycle - you don't like walking your dog because it's a nut, but your dog is a nut because she doesn't get walked. Being a shepherd mix, she probably needs a lot more exercise than a walk anyway. Are there any fenced in dog parks you can go to? Maybe look into a flirt pole. Your dog would benefit from a lot more exercise than it's probably getting. I would guess she's probably strung up tight like a child's wind-up toy, and it's virtually impossible to get focus out of a dog that over-threshold.

2.) You need to get control of her before any sort of training can take place. I would get a gentle leader. It is harmless to the dog and very difficultly for a dog to pull through it, even a very strong dog. This should stop your dog from pulling you over. An no-pull harness might work, too, but the gentle leader is the most effective, imo.

3.) You have to train your dog to focus on you instead of on really excited stimuli. This is tough, and it's best to start with a well-exercised, tired dog. Start in the home, with minimal distractions. Reward and praise your dog for any attention your dog gives you. Have her sit by you and literally any eye contact gets a "yay!" and a treat. You need to slowly retrain your dog's brain to focus on you instead of other things. Once she's good at that, add distractions indoors (people moving around, toys on the floor, etc). Eventually, once you're getting steady focus indoors with distractions, move to a low distraction outdoor area. The backyard maybe. For some dogs this can be really, really hard. Use a high value reward (hot dogs, cheese, beef liver, etc) and reward and praise any time she chooses to give focus to you instead of the environment. If you keep at it, you can start to ask for focus in very stimulating environments, and then throw a treat and praise party when she gives it. It's not a fast process, but it works. I started my dog at 8 weeks, admittedly, but at 8 months, she can sit in the middle of a crazy busy Home Depot, with carts rattling around and lumber falling to the ground and people everywhere, sitting in heel position, looking up at my face. She can do this because I have paid her (in treats) for offering me focus so much the entire time I've had her. It's so worth it!

>However I think I have to replace the motherboard (not quite sure what the best word for the main controller board is). Why would I have to do this?

Because the melzi board in your printer (saying main print controller board / main controller board is fine) doesn't have enough memory in it for a feature like auto bed leveling. It's pretty much using all it's extra pins and available memory to run the version of repetier host on it (which is an older version before they added auto bed leveling).

>Could I not just replace the Z endstop switch, and wire the inductive sensor into the same inputs?

You could, but your firmware is still going to do what it's still doing, which is probe for X min, Y min, Z min, all only at 1 point. Auto bed leveling can be set up to probe multiple points on the print bed, then adjust the Z level in realtime while it's printing to make sure it's keeping the nozzle the same height from the print bed at all times. For example lets say your front left corner of your bed is at Z height 0, your front right corner is at Z+0.5mm, your printer will adjust the z height as it's printing left to right +0.5mm.

>If I do in fact need to replace the motherboard, what would my best option be?

Cheapest option is a ramps 1.4 board.. You can find them cheaper than amazon, but you'll at least need to get the arduino mega 2560, the ramps 1.4 shield, and the stepper drivers (A4988's are what your melzi board has). Basically, the display is optional if you want it to be cheaper, just remember you can't use your current melzi display on ramps though. That being said, changing over isn't too difficult, but it scares a lot of people away because it's pretty easy to fry a ramps board if you don't follow directions too closely, and it requires uploading firmware to the board (which means downloading arduino software, loading a sketch -- the link has a copy already preconfigured for the i3, but there's plenty of tutorials on the net for changing options over to using a Z probe and enabling auto bed leveling). It's a bit of new learning for new people.. but again, there's plenty of tutorials out there now on how to get it done. That being said, if you do learn how to do it, it opens up a lot of cool new options, you can pick from different firmwares like repetier host or marlin, configure lots of new features available in firmware (have the printer turn on LED lights when starting a print, etc..)

That all being said, if you want the easiest, cheapest fix, buy a new carriage plate for your heated bed. The one that comes on a lot of the newer I3's is prone to warping / bending and that's probably why you can't get a completely level bed. Swapping it out for a better quality one means you can forgo all that other work and have a bed that can be level with your current setup.. it's a lot less work and learning and probably a better solution that using auto bed leveling to solve a problem you'd want to fix anyway even with auto bed leveling.

Things you need to know about your husky:

• They are extremely intelligent, but not necessarily obedient. They are independent in nature, and can often be motivated by treats--unless the alternative is something they desire more.
  
• They are escape artists. If left to their own devices outside, they will dig, climb, squeeze, and then they will run. And run, and run--it's ingrained in their nature, so this will be almost impossible to correct. You can prevent this by keeping them entertained, which will also keep them from being destructive (boredom motivates them to destroy and explore). Also, never let them outside of a fenced in area without a leash. It's possible to train them to come when you call most of the time, but should they see a squirrel, cat, deer, anything they want to chase, their training goes out the window. Don't let them outside within fenced in areas without supervision.
  
• They are high-maintenance dogs and need a lot of exercise. Right now, walks and games of tug-of-war will suffice. When he gets older (<1 year), runs. If you're out of shape, get a bike, and ride together using the walkydog leash. My husky -loves- to swim. We swim and kayak together every weekend during the summer. Get creative with your exercise--hike, swim, try different training courses--they love the mental exercise and breaking out of routine!
  
• Get a [furminator] (http://www.amazon.com/FURminator-Long-Hair-deShedding-Large/dp/B0040QQ07C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342588841&sr=8-2&keywords=furminator) meant for long-haired dogs. Seriously. This will be one of your best investments. Other great investments that I've made have been [the Ruffwear life jacket] (http://www.amazon.com/Ruffwear-Float-Jacket-Currant-Medium/dp/B005OTYEMW/ref=sr_1_34?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1342588905&sr=1-34&keywords=life+jackets+for+dogs), [Plato's Salmon Strips treats] (http://www.amazon.com/Plato-Dog-Treats-Salmon-16-Ounce/dp/B000NVBVIQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1342588957&sr=1-1&keywords=Salmon+strips) (there is nothing Keno won't do for one of these, but they smell horrible--still worth it), [the walk dog leash] (http://www.amazon.com/Petego-Walky-Hands-Free-Bicycle-Leash/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_1) for a bike, and [Kyjen's indestructible squeak toys] (http://www.amazon.com/Invincible-Gecko-4-Squeak-Blue/dp/B005CQARAA/ref=sr_1_25?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1342589219&sr=1-25&keywords=kyjen+dog+toys).
  
  Your puppy is disgustingly adorable. Seriously one of the cutest little holy terrors I've ever seen (and I say this fondly, because my adorable husky was a monster as a puppy). I hope you form a bond as strong as mine and Keno's, and that you enrich each other's lives!

Fun! I'll let you know some of my dog gear, but your preferences and dog will be different.

I usually bring three different leashes with me, depending a little on where I'm going. She can't really be off leash, so I take a 30 ft line to give her space to wander or splash in the river on a break. If the trail is too busy or the hike is a pretty short one, this often gets left behind or never used.

A basic 15 ft leash is perfect for hiking with her. It gives her a bit more space, but isn't long enough to cause much trouble getting wrapped around things, and I can easily pull her closer to me when I need. I tied a couple knots in it for easier grabbing and holding at different lengths. I can also use a locking carabiner (I always have a couple on hand) to attach the handle to my backpack for hands-free.

I also love my Tuff Mutt hands-free waist leash. It has two handles if I need to hold her closer, and I really like the bungee. The only downside is that it's a bit heavy for a leash, but I find it's worth the weight, and I'm almost always just doing day hikes so it's fine. I don't know really know how it compares to other hands-free leashes though since it's the only one I've used.

I recently got a Ruffwear Front Range harness for hikes. It is the only harness I've been able to put on her, so I really can't compare much. Seems to fit her comfortably and works well as a back-clip harness. I haven't been able to use it as a front-clip without it sliding around too much. But I don't really need the front-clip when hiking, so I'm pretty pleased with it overall. If my dog wasn't so finicky about harnesses, I'd be trying other options though. You might prefer one with a handle, I've heard good things about the Ruffwear Webmaster.

I currently have an Outward Hound travel bowl for water, but I'm not a huge fan of it. My dog doesn't always drink all the water I pour, so then I've wasted water. And I either have to put a wet bowl back in my bag or clip to the outside and hear the annoying swish of it rubbing against the bag. It's not a big deal, and it works, but I'm eyeing one of these instead.

Happy hiking!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

upgraded carriage plate, should be one of the first things you do, the stock one is flimsy and prone to warping, making the print bed extremely hard to level reliably.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-SLOTTED-Cooling-Wanhao/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497736485&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=i3+plus+all+metal+hotend

all metal hotend will enable you to print at much higher temp, and increase reliability of the print head. not strictly needed, but a great upgrade if you want to print abs, petg, or other higher temp filaments.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=sUxZ5&pf_rd_r=W5Q7RV181EJYGTBW4YDJ&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01HCVJ3K2&pd_rd_w=ZPXZq&pf_rd_i=tri+gorilla&pd_rd_r=F2X8G4XDPCVTNXX6J560&ie=UTF8&qid=1497736655&sr=1

heater bed mosfet upgrade. again, not strictly needed, but also useful for high temp filaments like abs, as you can run the heated bed at higher temps. also solves (small possibility, i3 plus supposedly fixed issue) of stock mosfet burning out and catching fire.

https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=i3+plus+cooler&sa=&dwh=295945a7ab3d0cd

print a cooling fan shroud, i use the ciiicooler, the diiicooler is great as well. preferably in abs. BIG quality improvement, the stock fan is useless.

these are some of the ones i use, and there's a lot of other things you can do, extruder gear, improved bearings, too many to count really, just a matter of how far you want to go for incremental gains. the carriage plate and the cooling fan shroud are the only strictly necessary ones though.

oh and i made my own version of this z-brace, don't have the files anymore unfortunately, but this one is fine:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631

that's also something you should do asap.

Well, I can provide a bit of info but also hope to get a few answers myself.

I have a 4(ish) year old, 50lb aussie/bc mix. I bought a walky dog system this spring:

http://www.amazon.com/Petego-Walky-Hands-Free-Bicycle-Leash/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374676694&sr=8-1&keywords=walky+dog

and I am quite happy with it.

It is quite an advantage to have dog/leash tethered to your seat. Last weekend we were out for a ride/run and a fawn jumped out of the trees. Instead of having my arm ripped off or the bike pulled off the road, the combination of your weight on the seat and the good sized spring in the bar that allows the leash to flex kept us both under control. It is also good that the dog can't cut in front of the bike with this setup. The bar is a quick detach from the bracket so it is easy to deal with as well. Thumbs up on the product.

Now my related question. I have been unsure how far is too far for my Aussie to run. We were out for a couple of miles on the weekend and I think that is about the max without a good break at this point. I don't know know if more trips will increase range or not. So anyone been doing this long enough or have some data on how far a fit Aussie should be able to run? I would love to get up to 6-10 miles but heck, the dog has to run alongside. I am not sure that is reasonable?

Oh, she sounds just like my 80 lb GSD! He's getting better with the jumping, but it's definitely hard. We just tell him "off!" when he starts to jump, and he doesn't get attention until he's in a sit or at least keeping all 4 paws on the ground, even if he's dancing haha. Also, we put a knee up when he does jump at us, just so we don't get the full force of his lunge. He'll see the leg up and divert to the side, or back down. (I don't kick at him, or push him at all, just put my leg up and he's learned.)

It's definitely frustrating when family and friends don't listen though. When I have people coming to the house, or if we meet friends on a walk, I use the leash and a Halti to stop him from jumping. I always have treats on hand to immediately reward his good behavior greetings too. We've been working with him for about a year and a half (he'll be 2 in October) and he's finally almost kind of getting there. 😏

Alternatively, if you're in Utah we could let the pups wear each other out sometime, lol.

I treat my dog whenever we encounter another dog, but we're at the beginning of our training (just rescued him in May; got behaviorist last month). We avoid other dogs too. He does have a [Ruff Wear No Pull Harness] (https://smile.amazon.com/RUFFFWEAR-No-Pull-Harness-Tillandsia-Purple/dp/B01MY7VUXU) which makes it a lot easier and I don't worry about choking him. He's also not a big dog (beagle-lab mix; about 30-35lbs depending on how many treats he's had!), but he is very food motivated. We work on sit & "look at me" when there are no dogs around (when walking off peak times) and I give him a training treat instead of a high value treat. I do second someone else's comment about muzzle training because it will give you peace of mind.

ETA: Apollo is adorable! He looks like a cuddly guy :)

One: it is not terribly difficult to teach a dog to 'heel' or walk alongside you. Googling around real quick will give you several different teaching methods to choose from... it'll take some patience and time, but it's definitely a worthwhile thing to get down if you walk your dog regularly. If you'd rather not do that (or are in a hurry to get this fixed), I've heard the best tool for this is the leashes with muzzles/loops at the end that attach to their snout. They cannot pull or it'll yank their own head backwards. this seems to be a pretty popular one on Amazon.

As for two, I'm interested to hear answers as well. I have two dogs that don't play terribly well with other dogs. They are both very playful with me, but not with each other or other dogs they come into contact with. I'm going to give doggy day care a shot to see if I can get them socialized (part of the problem is they just don't come across other dogs very often), but I'll be reading any other tips that pop up in this thread.

Yeah I’m not a fan of teaching by discipline. My dogs actually have 3 different leads for walks, because things work for different types of dogs.

I’ve got one on a Gentle Leader. It’s pain free, and easy to use. The only downside was it rubbed the hair off one of my dogs, so we had to switch what he was on.

PetSafe Gentle Leader Head Collar with Training DVD, LARGE 60-130 LBS., BLACK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ArVJBbSYWZN8K

I’ve got another one on the Holy leader. For some reason he was able to just power through the gentle leader like it wasn’t even on, but the Holt seems to work as intended. Same concept of forcing the dog to turn and look at you if he pulls.

Holt Head Collar Black Size 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OCXVJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1uVJBbW14C4QP

He third dog, the one who has his hair rubbed off, is on the RabitGoo harness. It has a leash attachment in the front, to prevent pulling, a handle to grab onto if needed, and a back leash attachment. They run a little big, so if he borders between sizes get the smaller one.

Rabbitgoo Dog Harness No-Pull Pet Harness Adjustable Outdoor Pet Vest 3M Reflective Oxford Material Vest for Dogs Easy Control for Small Medium Large Dogs (Black, L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8JT6FT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NxVJBb472BM7P

I also highly recommend the Primal Pet Gear training leash too. It’s easy on the hands and fits perfectly when my dogs are by my side. My dogs are bigger though, so I’m not sure if that makes a difference.

Primal Pet Gear Dog Leash 6ft Long - Traffic Padded Two Handle - Heavy Duty - Double Handles Lead Control Safety Training - Leashes Large Dogs Medium Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072144JB1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pzVJBbPNSC8YT

I’ll look for my notes and post!

Start with a two week shut down. It's hard to tell anything until they've settled in.

She's food motivated and you can use that to help train her. In the mean time, no eating in front of her. Feed her separately from your other dog. Spread her food out on a cookie sheet or get a slow feeding bowl to slow her down. Break up her food into smaller portions and feed her throughout the day. Add low calorie, real food to her diet for bulk. I add almost all kitchen trimmings to my hungry boy's bowl. Broccoli stems are a favorite. Dogs not fed consistently can develop an obsession for getting food since they don't know when they'll get another meal. Being alone in the basement, maybe feed sporadically, probably bored and ignored is going to have leave their marks on her behavior. They can be overcome, but not in a week. By feeding her more often the hope is she starts to realize food is plentiful. I have two dogs with polydipsia, which is the water version of obsession over food. Small amounts all the time helped them.

She's a lab and you have a rabbit. Trouble brewing. I'd love a cat, but prey drive is a real thing and my dogs have it. I'm not sure it can be overcome. You should always keep them safely separated. You might want to look into x-pens to keep them both safe. Amongst my dog friends we call it living in a gated community. Baby gates and x-pens to keep animals separated. Not bad once you're used to it and figure out the system that works for you.

Barking is tough. We tried a citronella bark collar with moderate success. Once he learned that it only released the scent every couple of minutes he'd bark, wait till the collar went off and then bark for two minutes waiting for the next shot. Might be my fault since it worked great at first. Never really read how to use one properly. The sonic devices didn't work at all. If he barks he's put into a time out. If he's quiet when he'd normally bark he's given a treat and time outside. He's barking is greatly reduced, but it's part of who he is and I don't think will ever go away entirely.

Give her plenty of space when she eats. Don't feed her at the same time as your other dog. She should eat while alone. No bones or toys while people or your other dog is present. Set her up to succeed.

You might want to look for a behaviorist to help with the resource guarding.

Hey there,
so I know you posted this a while ago but if your dog doesn't seem interested in walking maybe you need something to get them more excited like treats or a toy that they will only get during their walks. I think maybe a good special treat could be these. I would also recommend a gentle leader like this one and both are relatively affordable on amazon. It doesn't hurt them and you don't risk having your puppy choking itself. Hope this helped!

You said 'gentle lead,' but did you use a name brand 'gentle leader'? http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_1_3
Must study the dvd or youtube video instructions and apply exactly as directed. It seems odd applying the loop around the head (behind the ears) so tight--but follow the directions precisely.

I have a 115 lb dog bred to pull carts & she does love to pull ;-) This makes a 100% difference as when she pulls..... her head is turned around to face whoever's walking her--and that's no fun. Even my 5 year old grandson has no problem walking her with the gentle leader. She has little or no interest in pulling with the gentle leader on-I use a slim puppy leash with it. But she still will pull some with a normal lead. There's lots of useful reading on the amazon page: both the product description and some of the over 3800 user reviews. It does work for lots of dogs.

Good luck!

He's adorable! I hope you both have many years of puppy love and companionship together!

I also hope you consider his safety in a vehicle :) Something like the item in the link would help keep him safe :)


http://www.amazon.com/Kurgo-Tru-Fit-Harness-Release-Buckles/dp/B00164ZWBG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408625906&sr=8-2&keywords=dog+car+harness

My dog uses a Kurgo and we've had good luck with that one, but I think it's really important to get a good fit. The sizing for some brands leaves a lot to be desired. (Like the small is too small and the medium is too large, even with adjustments.) I finally got a good fit when I took my dog to the pet store with me and asked a sales person if they would help me with the fitting. (It was a small locally owned store, so they were willing to open the packages and help me with the adjustments.) You might try other brands if Kurgo doesn't have the right size for your dog.
Here's Baxter in his Kurgo.

Edit: The Kurgo website has more sizes.

Hell ya! Do it all the time!

Of course, this really depends on lots of things. Do you have a safe area (not too much traffic)? How stable are you in riding? How big and strong is the dog and how much do they pull?

I used to take my dog biking all the time (hold the leash in one hand and the handlebar in the other hand). He got old and couldn't run much, so I got a cargo bike and took him everywhere:

https://youtu.be/zEY7LmnY23E

Ollie passed away and we got another dog. She is a puppy and hates the cargo bike. She wants to run! She is now 2 years old and weighs 50 lbs (black lab mix). I now take her with my e-bike. Leash in one hand, the bike handle bar in the other hand. The e-bike is awesome because it has good acceleration. Sometimes she just zooms all of a sudden and I can keep up without tugging on the leash.

But I'm a strong rider. I can keep her in control while riding 20+ miles per hour on short bursts.

My girlfriend is not a strong bike rider. So we got her one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4

This ties to my girlfriend's bicycle seat post. It stretches out and holds the dog. She takes our dog for rides with this apparatus. Works pretty good! She gets to keep both hands on the handlebars.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4W2

A gentle leader might be your best option. When a dog pulls, it instead gently brings the snout down and stops the pulling motion. That being said, it takes a good bit of training for a dog to accept this (as taught by the helpful dvd they send with it). Best of luck in your search!

Unfortunately, nothing will change unless she truly wants to work towards changing the behavior. Ultimately, there are no real bad dogs, only bad training/lack of direction. If you don't agree on how the dog is handled though, it will continue to be a problem. Dogs are fantastic and seeing the loopholes between expected behavior between people.

Hands down, my favorite book to suggest to people is called "Surviving your dog's adolescence" by Carol Lee Benjamin. It has step-by-steps on how to gain your dog's respect in a positive manner.

You also need to give the dog an outlet for the high amount of energy. To walk the dog, you might find a gentle leader tool very helpful: http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1334078283&sr=8-1

That way, you will be able to walk them and help teach the dog to respect you. Keep the dog on a short leash (like 2 feet) and for god's sake, don't use a flexi-lead. Only teaches the dog to ignore you and do whatever it wants.

Use a crate to limit where the dog can go when not physically being watched, and invest in some kong toys and stuff them with peanut butter/canned dog food and freeze it.

A squirt bottle works well for teaching not to jump, as well as using treats for when they don't jump or sit instead. Using both makes it very black and white and clear to the dog what is expected.

Sources: I trained dogs for Guiding Eyes for the Blind for 4 years and continue to do training as an Evaluator for the AKC Canine Good Citizen Program.

I wish I could offer some advice, but I haven't had any experience with dogs who have hip/joint pain. If your vet thinks it's okay I would personally just be aware of any change in how the dog is moving (limping, walking funny, etc.)

I'm somehow just lucky in getting him to stop and start. I've been working with him for a while though on getting him to be better on his leash and some off leash things (at the dog park, beach, hiking) so I think that helps because he mostly wants to stay with/nearer to me. I also have a leash that wraps around him and behind his front legs so he has a harder time pulling, he still does but when we're running I'm able to have him close and pull his leash up next to me so he can't put any weight into it. A gentle leader leash may be helpful for pulling too.

Gentle lead- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00074L4W2/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00074L4W2&linkCode=as2&tag=herepup-20&linkId=H6FWR7WPUPDN3BMI

The one that wraps around - http://www.mypulleze.com/wp-content/uploads/Tucker-Pulleze.jpg

FYI, I have one of these, and I absolutely love it. It's a little nicer than a leash, in that it keep my pup right where he needs to be next to my bike - not too close, not too far. Leash works ok, I suppose, but I like the bar. In any case, hope you have fun, I know mine loves bike rides.

https://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466175470&sr=8-1&keywords=walkydog

I have used a no-pull harness for dogs that have needed leash training.

Something like this.

Anything that attaches in front of their chest will work better than a regular choke collar because it redirects the dog rather than increasing their nervous energy. Also, waiting for the dog to be calm before moving forward is a good idea. You may start giving the dog a treat once they are sitting calmly so they realize that calm behavior is good. I usually wait until my dog is sitting and giving me his attention before giving a treat and starting to walk again.

Have you looked into a training class? There are many trainers that have classes on mannered walking. Look into positive reinforcement trainers!

Basically you'll want to stop/even turn around every time your dog pulls. Reward the dog for walking next to you. It doesn't take long for them to realize what you want. Read more about loose lead walking.

Equipment is very important -- we use an Easy Walk Harness (you only want front clip harnesses! Back clip harnesses make pulling worse). Also purchase a Matingale Collar. The most secure you can be is to clip the front clip of the harness to the loop of the martingale collar.

Another alternative is to use a Head Halter (halti or gentle leader). When the dog pulls forward the equipment redirects their head so they'll basically turn back.

Harnesses and head halters are the most humane methods you can use. They'll give you added control until the training piece catches up!

​

Best of luck!

Nope. That harness attaches at the dog’s chest, which, while not chocking the dog, actually enables the dog to pull harder. Dogs naturally pull. If you give steady resistance, they pull harder. Let me get you a link to the gentle leader.

https://www.petsafe.net/gentleleader

And here’s amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4W2

Definitely check this out. It may be your saving grace with your pup. I suggest reading the amazon reviews — there are a lot of good ones of stories how the leader helped their dog with pulling issues almost immediately, although adjusting the dog to having a halter on its nose can take even weeks. I’ve experienced a dog that was forced to wear the halter without a gentle, positive learning route, and it was not good. She learned to hate the halter. I recommend taking your time with lots of treats as the DVD included with the gentle leader (I think that them giving DVDs for training is really so cool) will instruct.

Save for the one dog who was forced to wear the gentle leader, Ive never had a bad experience. I hope you can have better peace of mind walking your dog soon.

I've seen a lot of people recommend the Freedom No-Pull Harness. I actually just got one for myself last week and so far I love it. Previously, I had been using the head collar for my dog who had a tendency to pull. But after a while I started really watching her and realized how stressed she was with it on. The trainer I use highly recommended the Freedom harness, which she uses with her highly reactive dog, which combined with her positive training methods have had amazing results.

You could also pop over to /r/dogtraining to read some of the advice they give out there. It's worth pointing out that their sidebar "prohibited" list includes recommending dominance as a training solution. It might be worthwhile considering consulting with a trainer who uses other methods.

My boyfriend used to get his boxer mix to pull him on a longboard when he was a kid to exercise his dog and it was great fun!

Biking can definitely be a bit safer if you use a specialized biking attachment like this to make it harder for the dog to topple you over.

With any pulling sport it's a good idea to get basic directional and stop commands in (especially if you don't have brakes like on a bike). We plan on doing pulling sports with our next dog and are shopping around for good harnesses to make sure he stays safe.

I would suggest a Gentle Leader. It works the same way people control horses in that it controls the nose. We have been using it to teach our dog to stop pulling/jumping and it is really great.

From the description on Amazon "Designed so that owners can communicate with their pet in a way they instinctively understand, the Gentle Leader painlessly and effectively removes the dog’s natural tendency to pull by placing gentle pressure on calming points and eliminating uncomfortable pressure on the throat. In addition to reducing a dog’s desire to pull away, the Gentle Leader is also a very effective tool in combating lunging, jumping, excessive barking and helping to calm an aggressive and/or anxious animal."

My roommate and I got a Select v 2.1 a few weeks ago (most that ship out from any retailers are 2.1s now, you can tell because the bed leveling screws are thumbscrews instead of wingnuts).

Just to get it out of the way early, just print a filament guide. Enough said about that.

You're absolutely right about the z-brace, worlds of difference. We also did the z-extension, not quite as important but it gives you the full print height potential. The fan upgrade doesn't do much for PLA from what we've tested but it helps on overhangs for ABS and the type.

I've noticed ringing pretty recently, which is from the springs used for belt tensioning. You can print belt tensioners that use screws instead to help alleviate that.

Bed warping is an annoying issue as well, that'll have you leveling your print bed at least twice a week. We got a y-carriage and got a piece of glass cut 8" x 8.5" x 1/8" for a print surface, which you can just secure down with scotchblue tape. Glue stick on the glass helps with print adhesion.

And just some tips for the road: Do not underestimate the amount of bolts/nuts/screws you'll need. It'll take at least a week and a half to get all the mods you want done, and it will never feel like you're finished. Finding a cabinet or some kind of enclosure is nice if you need it in the same room as you do your daily stuff/sleep in (like if you're in a dorm). Print settings like temperature and speed do more for print quality than any mods you can find. You will fail most of your early prints while trying to find the right settings. The bearings used are kinda crap and they make a cringey crunching noise, but I'm convinced it isn't affecting the prints much, if at all.

Any other questions, feel free to ask. We don't have the most experience with it yet but we've gotten a feel for the ins and outs. Welcome to the club!

See this post about restraining devices. The OPs situation was slightly different than yours but the information/discussion on the restraint systems is the same. Devices that have been tested and passed to earn a safety-certification to withstand the G-forces of a crash at 30mph range from $90 to Very Expensive.

If you're looking for something to specifically restrain the dog from a police officer standing next to the driver's side window, rather than to prevent the dog from becoming a projectile in the car, you may look at the Kurgo Tru-Fit Safety Harness. Note that while both the regular ($15) and "enhanced" model ($30) of this harness catastrophically failed safety testing as seen in this video the "enhanced" model has all metal hardware and would more reliably restrain a large muscular dog from the officer.

If I were in your situation and assuming you already have a harness, I would simply purchase this $25 Kurgo swivel tether for seatbelts and affix it to whatever harness you already have. None of these options will protect either you or the dog in a crash! but will accomplish your stated goal. Consider getting the Sleepypod Clickit harness despite its expense ($90) as it is the only harness system tested that passed the safety testing done by the Center for Pet Safety.

I suppose a crate, cage, or other barrier system could work but the only models that are effective at 30mph testing are >$400 which is why I always recommend a harness (and training).

I think I can help you with that. I have a big obstinate doggo too, and he's stronger than I am. He was a real pain in the butt on leash until only recently (he calmed down a bit when he turned two). I tried a bunch of leash/harness combinations and finally had success with the Rok strap and Easy Walk. What I like about the Rok leash is that it has two handles, one at the end and another right by where it clips to the dog.

This is useful for three reasons: (1) if doggo isn't cooperating, you can use the closer handle and have a lot more control over him. He will naturally need to stay right by your side, because he doesn't have room to roam. If he's behaving himself, you can let the leash out to give him more freedom. (2) He can't get enough momentum to hurt you. On a traditional leash, the dog will run and YANK on you when he reaches the end of the leash. If you're using the closer handle, he can't run as far. Less momentum = less force on you. (3) The leash is made with rubber, which means he will have to work a LOT harder to pull on the leash. More work = less reward.

Here's a photo of my dog on this harness + leash combo.
I hope that helps!

There are some devices for attaching the dog to the bike. I think this one is really popular. Some people just attach the leash to a bungee on their handlebars (but they tie the bungee a special way so it won't come off but still absorbs some force). I don't actually know anything about training a dog to run beside the bike but someone on here will have a good answer and tips. You can't really make them run a lot until they're over a year (or year and a half)because their bones are still growing and you don't want them to damage anything. After that, it's fair game!

If he responds negatively to other dogs, the trainer should be knowledgeable enough to help him get over it an work in a class setting. We had two or three dog aggressive dogs in our classes or trials and they never had a problem; we could all learn/compete without a dog fight or major disruption. It's a good socialization opportunity, too. It's going to be really great for him and for you! :D

It takes a lot of patience, for sure, but something that I found works with my Shiba Inu (who is also crazy on leash) is the easy-walk harness (http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Easy-Harness-Large-Black/dp/B0009ZBKG4). Since it hooks in the front, when they pull it will pull their legs so they have to stop. It doesn't hurt like a choke collar and works really well. It's not an instant fix, but it helps. I watch a lot of dog training shows (i.e. It's Me or the Dog and The Dog Whisperer), which will give you a lot of good tips for walking. The harness would be a good start, though. :)

And just for fun, here's my Shiba, Archie: http://imgur.com/eXL59

Easy solution to trash digging is to simply get a locking trashcan or put the trashcan in a place the dog cannot access.

From the way the dog acts it sounds like he isn't getting nearly enough exercise and or mental stimulation. Just because you have a big yard doesn't mean you don't have to exercise your dog. Especially if you just let him out and expect him to "play with himself". I have a fairly nice sized fully fenced yard and my GSD still gets 3 walks a day plus interactive playtime with me about once a day.

If your dog isn't interested in tug, fetch or frisbee, then the next step would be to run your dog. If you aren't in the best physical shape then what you can do is buy a cheap bike and purchase a Walky, run him for even just 20-30 minutes hard and I guarantee you his unruly behavior will decrease. I will note though, since he's a large breed dog I would wait at least until he's 12-15 months old to start doing this, as you can damage his joints by exercising him too hard before his joints have fused. Also get a kong, you can keep him occupied for at least 45min-1hr by putting peanut butter in it, freezing it, and then giving it to him.

I'd also recommend crate training him so that if you don't want him around guests you can crate him and you know he's safe. You can also crate him when nobody is home to guarantee your property and your dog's safety. Another thing you can do is buy a tie out and put it in the middle of the yard so he can't smash and paw on the door.

I'd definitely second getting a trainer to help you with his behavior in general though, it sounds like you aren't communicating with him in a way that clicks with him (remember, every individual will respond differently to different training methods), a seasoned trainer with lots of experience will probably be able to teach how to
communicate with him in a way that let's you communicate what you want him to do.

Lastly, you need to be patient with him, the Akita is a breed known for being very stubborn and hard to train, so you have to remember to manage your expectations. Just be consistent with what the trainer tells you to do and you will see results.

You're right about the Z motors, but I don't think irock168 was talking about the heat bed. He was talking about the Y carriage below the bed. It's flimsy and will continually cause leveling issues. The replacement from Amazon is this. Unavailable right now on Amazon, but you may be able to get it directly from RepRap Champion.

Other than the MOSFET mod for safety, it's the best mod I've done to my Maker Select. I rarely have to level my bed unless I move the printer.

We bought one from Amazon that has worked well for us. He's fully grown, so I'm not sure how it would translate for a pupper. It has multiple adjustable straps which help it fitting properly. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00164SZMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2jTUAb7QTEAAK). We also ordered a handsfree leash with multiple hand holds that I found helpful in teaching him not to pull, and it's great for hikes. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7ND6E4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) Hope it helps!

I really believe that the best thing you can do is to first teach your dog to heel when you walk, and then teach it to heel when you run. It makes your dog a better running partner, keeps them from pulling and general lunging, and makes you nice and compact on the trail since your dog isn't pulling their leash everywhere. I had great success with the
Gentle Leader head-harness and a shelter-rescued aggressive dog-- he would never go after other dogs or people when we ran because he a) heeled and b) knew he wasn't going far because of a 4 foot leash and a head-harness.

If you're running with your dog off-leash you need to re-think dog ownership, because you're clearly asking to watch your dog get smushed in traffic or caught up in the spokes of a bike.

I know warnings are like a broken record every time someone posts a picture of their new high maintenance breed puppy but here it goes anyways.

1. Aussies need a job. Get into some kind of sport. If you don't have time / money for special classes at least look into getting a Walky Dog to help burn of some energy. And don't forget to the Booties to protect the feetsies
   
   
2. Running / Walking will help burn energy but Aussies are smart. They need a lot of mental stimuli to keep them from getting bored and destroying your life.
   
   
3. Aussies tend to bond strongly to their own families and are generally wary of strangers. Proper socialization with other people and dogs is incredibly important.

First and foremost, you need a solid leash to make running together enjoyable for you and for the pup. Once I got this leash everything got way more enjoyable (especially because Aussies love to zig zag).

Tuff Mutt Hands Free Dog Leash for Running, Walking, Hiking, Durable Dual-Handle Bungee Leash, Reflective Stitching, 4-Foot Long, Adjustable Waist Belt (Fits up to 42" waist) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQZGD42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_FmuDwbEFBM7TV

Everything else just comes with practice. I stop completely whenever he does a behavior I don't want and we don't start again till he is sitting to my right side. Lots of praise when he is running at the pace I am and keeping the right distance. They are smart dogs and pick up on a lot rather quickly.

Marshall Gulch is a pretty good hike on Mount Lemmon that is dog friendly. There's some running water there, and my dog always enjoys it. A lot of people hike it with their dog off-leash though, so it may not be good if your dog is not friendly with others.

Also, tacking onto the leash comment above, a nice hands-free leash is great for hiking! I have this leash, and a Ruffwear harness that you can buy at REI in town.

I do a lot of biking with my dogs. They run in front pulling, but next to you works too- it depends on what you want, and what the dog is more comfortable doing.

1. Use the right equipment. You must use a harness, and it must be designed for running/pulling. Even if your dog is not pulling, harnesses designed for biking will be better padded and will not restrict movement. Unpadded harnesses can quickly rub fur off, and any harness that restricts movement will cause strain on your dog's elbows and it affects the way their weight is shifted as well. Check out the Alpine Outfitters Urban Trail harness, the HDA Distance Harness, Indi Dog Vari Fit or similar. Do not use a traditional x-back unless your dog is going to be pulling consistently, it will bunch up and be uncomfortable. If your dog will be next to you, use an attachment like the Walkydog and if your dog will be in front of you use a tugline.
   
2. As a general rule, do not run on cement or asphalt. Very short rides, up to you, but hard ground means hard impact on their joints, and the abrasive surface leads to torn and blistered paw pads. A mile or two a few times a week I honestly wouldn't be concerned about but you may want to look at booties. Paw wax like Musher's Secret is great to help keep pads moisturized but does not protect well in itself from abrasive surfaces.
   
3. Yield to everyone. Dismount and hold your dog when another dog is going by head on. Dismount and hold your dog and run to pass people with dogs, using your bike as a barrier between you both and the other dog. Assume all dogs are mean, basically, as you never want your dog to say hello while working- it can lead to fights, but more commonly leads to tangles, which leads to fights. Your dog does not say hello to any human or other dog while it's attached to your bike.

I recently bought the Kurgo Harness from Amazon and am very pleased with it. It has both a front and rear clip (the front clip really helps with a dog that likes to pull). The size chart is pretty handy too.

The quality of this harness is really great for its price.

Yeah I'd say bad bearing. The ones The came with my Plus were noisy too on fast moves.

I picked up some better ones from Amazon and switched them out when I had the bed apart for the Y carriage replacement.

Bearings (pack of 12 for $8.99 so I've got spares for down the road): edit: they're $10.99 now, Amazon having fun with supply and demand.

CTYRZCH 12Pcs LM8UU Linear Bearings for 3D Printer, RepRap Prusa Mendel DIY CNC Motion, Prusa Mendel, reprap(8mm x 15mm x 24mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE4H5PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6t3NqiIxMNsPK

These were longer than the stocks and fit perfectly in the brackets on the Select Plus. Haven't changed my X axis bearings yet.

Also, I upgraded the Y carriage, highly recommended:

RepRap Champion Y Carriage Plate Upgrade for Wanhao Duplicator i3 and Monoprice Maker Select V1, V2, V2.1 and Plus 3D printers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_bTZZKsFBnZWRg

My mini is calm now but he gets excited with his favorite activities. He will ALWAYS pull with a traditional leash set up. We got the no pull that latches at his chest and he doesn't pull. That being said, if we are at the dog park, he is just too excited to get there. No amount of commands will settle him. He wants to see his friends. That way if he pulls he doesn't choke and gag himself. (But he will fall down)

PetSafe Easy Walk Harness, Large, BLACK/SILVER for Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_G3LJybEZ1S7RP

I have a 1.5 year old Labrador with an endless amount of energy. I take him on a bike ride almost every single morning and depending on energy level some times twice a day.

He has the Easy Walk harness http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427159959&sr=8-1&keywords=easy+walk+harness
Basically uses his body weight against him.

I bike with my left hand on the bike at all times and my right hand free with his leash wrapped around my wrist. He caught on quick and will stay right by my side 90% of the time. There is an occassional lunge here and there at a squirrel but with my arm off the bike it just whips him back around with the easy walk harness (uses his body weight against him and pulls him around towards you).

I never thought the ones that attached to the bike were safe seeing as my 85lb dog is pretty powerful. He can yank on my arm all he wants and not pull me over but I worry with the bike attach ones he could alter the bike enough to possibly cause me to crash.

I love and highly recommend the Freedom Harness for a front clip. It stays much more clear of the shoulder than most other front clips, fits better (has more straps to adjust), and has a clip on the back as well if you ever want to let him run around, like on a hike.

Have you considered a Halti? It works well on forward pullers since they can't look forward when they're pulling - it looks like with the face harness you posted a photo of that any force from pulling would be directed along the dog's back and they'd still be able to face forward and stay focused on anything but you. It looks like your dog has a long enough nose for it to fit well and they come in a variety of sizes. It did wonders for our GSD/pit who pulled on a regular collar&leash, prong collar, easy walk harness, regular harness, sporn harness... heck, it's the only thing that's worked on him!

At the end of the day you didn't do anything wrong, you know your dog is reactive and he was leashed, he also didn't attack first another dog came up and tried to nip him.


That being said, do you see a dog trainer? If not it might be a good idea to reach out to one to get help, they can really help with teaching you how to train your dog to make better choices.

I'd also recommend getting a muzzle(and muzzle training) for situations where you might need it like the vet. Also a halty(https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004XNLCPC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_cvFKDbF4Q5J35 ) for walks. The halty isn't a muzzle but it's a useful tool in redirecting your dogs focus and if your dog lunges it can help keep their mouth shut.

I might be able to help you here. Having a husky cross, she would pull like CRAZY on the lease. It's bred into her, and I reinforce it when I hook her up to a harness and pull me on skis/rollerblades. So I've tried a bunch of things. It became especially important since I've moved from the great wide open of New Hampshire, to the cramped crappiness of Boston... I highly recommend the Gentle Leader here ... I used it for a couple years (I bet your dog will get the point in a couple weeks), and now I don't need to use it anymore. Sometimes if she is in desperate need of a walk and starts pulling, I will hold her lease right by where it connects to her collar and keep her walking right by my side, calmly, and focused on me rather than everything else around her.

I also heard the stopping when she pulls trick, and I know it works for some dogs, but it absolutely didn't work for mine even after a ton of persistence.

Hey thanks for that dog cake recipe btw! I am definitely going to try that!

Buy a harness, a harness is less likely to rub any areas raw as long as it fits properly. Front clip one will help "turn" the dog so they won't pull as much. A Gentle Leader can also work wonders by turning the head, however if the dog lunges at birds/cars/dogs/cats/etc. I wouldn't recommend.

Get a plain leash, retractable leashes actually encourage the dog to pull (since the dog has gotten used to pulling to get farther out).

You can exercise the dog indoors and only go out for potty breaks if you don't want to buy stuff just for the weekend. Play games like fetch or mental games like scavenger hunts (find hidden treats), or put treats in old water bottles, DIY toys work wonders. If the dog doesn't know any tricks/fetch you can start teaching games like sit, down, shake, roll over, etc. All good mental games.

Edited to put Shearaha1's harness suggestion.

I use this kind also to walk my half basenji 3 year old. I'm not sure if she has the same shape as yours but I also have it on pretty loose. Maybe the vet used it tighter than what is comfy for this breed. My girl has a broad chest so it has to be pretty loose. Other than that I also have to stay on a 6' leash so she doesn't build any momentum. Mine also took to a few commands while walking really well. And lastly you could try this other gentle leader model. It's really popular around where I moved and would not chafe, though I haven't tried it (just because I'd used the one I have now before I adopted my pup) but I would try it.

What about using a hand's free leash for her? Something like this. That way she's leashed but you can still have both hands on the other dog's leash.

I know someone else already mentioned a front-clip harness, but I have to mention it again. My dog pulls like crazy on a regular collar or harness, but the front clip harness has made things so much easier. If I want to put her in a 'heel' position, all I have to do is shorten how much leash she has. If she sees a squirrel and tries to bolt, she gets turned around at the end of the leash and can't dig in and pull me where she wants to go. It's really amazing. This is the one I have.

(We are also training her to walk nicely while using it, but it has made such a difference.)

Thanks for the suggestion on front-clip harnesses! I ordered this one for him: Kurgo Tru-Fit Smart Dog Harness - Amazon.com. It has great ratings and seemed useful for a puller like a malamute.

My dog went through some really basic obedience classes when he was a pup, and I think it was really helpful that we put a lot of work into getting him used to walking next to us while on his leash. Honestly, he took right to the bike lead; I took him around town slowly the first few times, and that was about it. I think he knows that the bike = running, so he cooperates. Honestly the most difficult part is when he's over-excited and tries to herd my bike by nipping at my front tire.

As far as the leads, in my judgement it's best to have a lead that attaches to a mid to low section of your bike. My bike is pretty tall so I went with the Petego Spring Lead Universal Bicycle Leash and attached it to the lower section of my seat tube (below the top tube); whereas my wife went with the Walky Dog which she attaches to the rear axle of her bike. I will say that the Walky Dog is kind of nice because you can pop the lead right off the bike and use it like a leash, though if you're running two dogs the Petgo attachment has two attachment points.

Sorry that's not a lot of info, but if you have any specific questions I'd be happy to answer.

I use something like the Freedom harness of my aussie. I don't use the second leash option, and just keep it clipped to the front but I think the extra piece between the legs helps to actually keep the harness in position. I find that the easy walk can shift a lot or hangs low unless it fits perfectly which is hard to do.

http://www.amazon.com/Freedom-No-Pull-Harness-Training-Package/dp/B005OPZY7K

Just started up biking with Tigger for the first time last week. We have now been on 4 rides and I LOVE it. She loves to run and this has been a great outlet for her. Not to mention she took to it like a pro - no fear of the bike, heeled when I told her to, and so far she has not pulled me off.

We have a nice bike path near our house to ride on as well. I have only ridden on that path so far because I don't trust her on the streets. If we keep up with this I am going to buy a bike attachment this summer.

Get one of these for your backseat and let the dog have the back seat. It's fantastic. It comes with a couple leashes where one end is a seatbelt clip. He can't fall into the floor this way and has padding across the whole backseat. Plus it's waterproof. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CMZ11TX

Also get him a harness (chest-attach area) like this and seatbelt him in, either with the above or with this one's carabiner. Helps give him an anchor and keeps him safer. Keeps him away from you a bit better too, distracting you is the #1 safety factor.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00164ZWBG or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064ACNLO

Hi! I got the harness from my mother in law but it is a Rabbitgoo No Pull Harness in a large! It's pretty nice! I think Bumi is about 45lbs (he's our lean boi) and there's still room for him to grow into it (he's 9mo). I like it a lot! I def recommend it.

Front harnesses are great; they cut so much of the dog's pulling power. We got the Tuff Mutt hands free leash and it buckles around your waist, like a belt. It also has a small bungee section so if they pull it gives just a little before stopping. It also has two handles and OH MY GOSH is it an arm saver. Our trainer recommended it for our reactive dog because it allows us to be a more solid base instead of getting our arms yanked out of our sockets. We got two, one for each dog and I never want to use a regular leash again.

This specifically is the one we got recommended by our trainer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQZGD42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T8RIybWSQ1WJE

But she also recommended this one as well: https://www.amazon.com/Retractable-Bungees-Protection-TaoTronics-Controlling/dp/B01M7ND6E4/ref=zg_bs_3024195011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EP76F5KNGQKZ5TY6FAQ5

A harness is very helpful. They sell good ones by a company called ruffwear on Amazon.

RUFFWEAR - Front Range, Everyday No Pull Dog Harness with Front Clip, Trail Running, Walking, Hiking, All-Day Wear, Tillandsia Purple (2017), Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY7VUXU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YP9lDb8QTPMDN

Be prepared for a rough 10-14 days of whining and minimal sleep. All dogs are different, but most recover well and have a quality life on 3 “wheels”. Be sure to keep the cone on as they will lick the wound and cause infection/bleeding. Be diligent with the medication and hot/cold compresses to reduce swelling and fluid accumulation. When in doubt, call the surgical vet. My bud lost his right rear leg in February to a cancerous sarcoma. He’s as happy now as he’s ever been. Only real difficulty is going down more than 3 steps. (They hop so it just doesn’t work.) Of course, my dog is 77 lbs so it may be different for yours. Good luck!

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Original Post:

Author: /u/xigneusx

Ultrasonic noise machines?
>Hey there reddit, I live in the US. My Neighbor recently decided to grace my neighborhood with a new ultrasonic noise machine like this one: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Outdoor-Ultrasonic-Bark-Deterrent/dp/B000UZNLGA
>
> He says its to keep mice away, but it plays all times of the day and can be heard across the street.
> What is the legality of this device?
> Is this the subreddit to ask? if not could you point me in the right direction?
>
> Thanks!

I have this bike attachment for riding with my dog and I love it.

My dog is pretty good on leash, so getting him to do it on a bike was pretty easy. I did it in the following steps:

1. Put him in his harness, attached the bike lead (with no bike) and just took him for a walk with it.
   
   
2. Attached him to the bike, and walked the bike with him around the block.
   
   
3. Went for it.
   
   I don't know, it's very possible I under thought it, but it really worked pretty easily for me. No accidents so far.
   
   A couple of tips I've found:
   
   You should not pull your dog! If you start to notice it's a little harder to go, it's because he's lagging. Slow down, or let him stop. You can really get your dog up to a "sprint" on your bike, which my dog loves, but he just doesn't last very long. When I'm going fast, he can only got about 3 miles (when I started, it was about 1.5 miles). Make sure you bring water, a bowl and poop bags.

How big is your bunny?

Some people have had a lot of success with the "walking jacket" style- basically a vest for their rabbit. I find this works pretty well on the "under 7 lb" group of rabbits. Sometimes the strap around the neck is too bulky.

For bigger rabbits, I'm partial to an "H-style harness" (link is to the same brand/style I use). The adjustability makes for a very secure fit and the dual clips allow for easy on and off when you are in possession of thumbs.

Whatever you do, skip harnesses that look like this. Squishing rabbit heads/dewlaps/ears through the nonadjustable neck hole is stressful and uncomfortable. It's very bulky between the legs. They often are made of a stretchy material, which allows bunnies to escape.

Honestly, I am weary to post this in that many of you may say this in inhumane, but I think it is an immediate solution.

My family has 4 chihuahas who act very much like the dogs you've described(one barks, they all bark). We bought one of these bark boxes that emits a high pitch sound inaudible to humans when it senses the dogs bark. This sound distracts the dog so that they stop barking. We only had to actually turn it on a handful of times before they got the message that it wasn't cool to bark when it was night time. It was incredibly effective, much to my surprise. I would think if you set one of these on your side of the fence and turned it on for a few nights at 10PM, the dogs would learn not to bark, at which point you could just return the box and sleep in peace.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Outdoor-Ultrasonic-Bark-Deterrent/dp/B000UZNLGA

They probably also sell these at pet stores.

My dog never puts this chew toy down.

She also loves elk antlers, and they work wonders to keep her occupied!

I also recommend the Easy Walk Harness. It keeps our dog in check on walks and she is much more willing to listen when she's in that vs. a normal leash.

Good luck finding your new family pet !

We just got a WalkyDog Plus that we're training our dog to use.

The pole attaches to your bike seat so you're free to safely keep both hands on the bike, and it keeps the dog at a distance so it can't get in front of or behind the bike. It does require training to get the dog used to moving with the bike, but so far we like it.

Even just snail pacing around an empty parking structure is more than enough to exhaust her for now. The added bonus is she's learning that paying attention to where we're steering is crucial to her safety.

The only downside so far is that if she pulls a certain way and doesn't match pace with the bike's speed, she can move the seat post attachment. But that's why we're slowly training her to keep pace with the bike.

We got a WalkyDog and it works great:
http://www.amazon.com/WalkyDog-Bicycle-Exerciser-Leash-Hands/dp/B003OYIAW4

Keeps the center of gravity low so that they can't affect the bike travel as easily. It's just long enough to keep them away from moving bits but has enough play for some side to side.

Our huskies love them. Half the time I can just sit back and they will do most of the work :) Once they get into a run the are fairly oblivious to anything not directly in front of them. Had a rabbit jump out to the side once and I started prepping for trouble but we just ran right past.

Sure! It's made by ruffwear and it has a locking carabiner on the end. Our girly learned how to unclip her normal leash with her mouth and would take off running. The metal bit twists up so that the latch can't open anymore, unless of course it's twisted back down.

Ruffwear - Knot-a-Leash, Reflective Dog Leash with Secure Locking Carabiner, Blue Spring, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R1UZLBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DNw7yb2CZ0HWP

The harness she's wearing is an easy walker, which her leash clips to in the front of her chest, so it keeps her from pulling on the leash too much.

PetSafe Easy Walk Harness, Large, BLACK/SILVER for Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nTw7yb261F6HY

Hope this helps!

I assume yours is a two-loop step in harness like this one?

If so, you can attach a sturdy keyring or carabiner to where the front-most horizontal strap goes through the between-the-legs strap, so you can attach the leash to the dog's chest instead of the back.

It's NOT as good as a purpose made front-clip harness like OP's dog has, and there is a risk of the dog being able to escape the harness if they do a serious tuna fish maneuver (though I've had dogs escape from step-ins even when top clipped), but I've walked a few dogs ghetto-front-clipped with this step-in kind of harness and it's much better than back-clipping for leash pullers.

If you're worried about slipping out, you can attach the leash to the collar via a safety strap, and put a sturdy keyring around the two D rings at the clasp just in case.

EDIT: As a dog walker who's used a LOT of different harnesses on different dogs, this style of harness is by far my favourite. There are loads of different brands that make basically the same thing so shop around, but it's a really good design for medium to large breeds.

Here's the link to one such product

Also, I have a Cattle dog too, fucking loves car rides. Before my jeep I had a pickup and put him in the back once when I was headed home from the dog park. I had a bungee set up on the tow points and a 6 foot leash hooked in to that. I reversed out of my parking spot and he jumped out, leash and all. Ever since then I've been real paranoid to only roll down the window half way and stuff. But alas in the past year or so I've decided to test it and put the window down all the way. So far so good! Not on the highway, just around town n stuff. But he loves it and doesnt even give me the vibe of jumping out, so I'm not too worried and seeing him like that makes me smile.

Not the best pic, but here he is enjoying the wind

I've been using this leash for almost a year and really like it. There are a couple rings on the leash that you can adjust how long the lead is as well as a hand loop that's useful when I need to keep him by my side when we are passing someone. Granted my dog is a lot smaller than this leash is good for but I've never been worried about that it was going to break when he tried to run after a rabbit or something

TaoTronics Retractable Hands Free Dog Leash with Dual Bungees for up to 150 lbs Large Dogs (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7ND6E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bdRKBbEGGFXCJ

I haven't used that sort of collar previously. I will say I tried a Gentle Leader with my 90lb pit/rottie mix and it was amazing. She pulled pretty bad, and I was having a lot of difficulty training her. With the Gentle Leader it was like night and day. As soon as it went on, she stopped pulling. It is definitely worth the $15.

Here's my dog: http://imgur.com/a/6AowK

Here's the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1501972494&sr=1-3&keywords=gentle+leader

Toys that exercise the puppies mind.. Hands down bar none to any other toy (sans good chewy toys)

This treat ball helped me regain some sanity from my over energetic pup. Fill it with kibble and they push it around as a few pieces drop out here and there until they are done. Has REALLY helped during times where he needed to tire himself out.

Bully sticks are great but if your pup turns into an aggressive chewer, these things will go fast and will quickly become VERY pricey.

Finally, if you're dog becomes a little hard to manage before he/she learns to walk on a leash, an easy walk harness clips to a d ring in the front of the pup's chest. When they pull it forces them to turn around which turns pulling counterproductive for them.

Hope you enjoy your new pup! That said here's the latest addition to the family. Jäger

It's very comfortable, light and easy to put on and take off, I can't recommend it highly enough. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/Authentic-Puppia-RiteFit-Harness-Adjustable/dp/B005CTGC7O) is the model we have, because it's adjustable around both the neck and the girth so allowed us to get a good fit as our girl grew, while [the standard Puppia] (http://www.amazon.com/Authentic-Puppia-Soft-Dog-Harness/dp/B0013MX6GY/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51b2wjkO72L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1JW0GYDVBHPWFM9PVSVR) is not adjustable in the neck, only the girth. If you go for that one, make sure to check the measurement guide as I think sizes for this one are a bit different than the standard model.

Have you tried using a gentle leader? Makes walking my beag so much easier. She hates it, but it taught her to walk nicely on the leash and now I just use a regular harness.

She's only 8 months old and you are definitely right about several things - she destroys stuff (shoes, couch, anything she can find on the floor) on a regular basis and it can be very frustrating. But she's also sweet, loving, friendly with people and other dogs, and amusingly derpy. Overall, I don't think she is THAT much worse than other puppies. Exercise helps a ton.

We have the kurgo harnesses for both dogs (small and medium). They have rings for front and back leash attachment and there is plenty of sliders to adjust it perfectly. Favorite harness we've tried so far!

Kurgo Tru-Fit Smart Dog Harness, Black, Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00164SZMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r-XDybWGTNBNQ

For a simple solution try http://www.amazon.com/pet-supplies/dp/B0009ZBKG4. The collar really prevents them from pulling. We've had our dog on it for a few weeks and really noticed an improvement. We first heard about it from a dog trainer. Good luck!

Gentle Leader's "Easy Walk" works great for my large boxer. Connects at the chest, so if he tries to pull, it just turns him around, he effectively stops himself. Under $20. Doesn't "squeeze" the chest.

http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1343305037&sr=1-4&keywords=Gentle+Leader

Hey! Thanks for the kudos! I ride to work with him in the trailer (about 6mile round trip) every other day so that helped for sure. We have a walky dog as well that helped when he was getting antsy (but slows us down considerably) and then a few times where we could let him completely loose.

It was our first go at it, hence our short 22mile overnight. We're confident now that we can go further!

Front clip harnesses are great, so are rear/back clip harnesses if the dog isn't a puller.

With the senior dog I'd go for a fairly solid back clip harness (like this, or this - if he's got sore joints at all (which is common for the breed) then a front clip harness could be painful as they basically turn the dog if it pulls. The solid harness will give you a good amount of control, and will also feel more comfortable for your new guy.

For your younger fella, a front clip harness and some classes on nice walking on a leash would be a good idea. I walk dogs 3-4 times a week, and I find that the dogs I walk with harnesses learn really quick. I use no corrections, just food and the 300 peck method.

Here are the bits. if you don't mind helping me out (I make 3d printing videos etc..) Goto my Video for the same links as affiliate links. Regular links provided here if you don't want to do that. its also a good video on the Maker Select Duplicator I3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpcm4XEbP1Q

It is not monitized with ads.

I have purchased all of these with my own money and use all of them.

you can save a little cash by printing your own z brace parts but the kit is not that expensive and looks DAMNED good and is super fast to install. if I get another maker/i3 printer its what I will use (I printed my first one bought my second one) I actually installed my Z brace kit while it was printing :-)

Z Brace Kit

My Video installation

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuVSxyYoKk0&t=1s

https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Z-Brace-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B071SD7B4Z


Replacement Y Plate

https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7


If you have a glass cutter this is a lot cheaper for the glass 12x12 Mirror Pane

https://www.amazon.com/Darice-Inch-x12-Square-Mirror/dp/B002PNUZAA


Or just buy the right size Glass Plate

https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Borosilicate-heatbed-printer-Reprap/dp/B00GAV9SVU

Ours is a Gentle Leader Head Collar/Halter.

Thanks for the kind words! Super happy with the results so far, turned an absolute wiggleworm of a puppy into a beast that is much, much, more manageable.

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

They actually make leash attachments you can put on the side of your bike so your dog can run with you safely without pulling you or getting run over. I've been considering getting one for my dog since I don't run, but he sure loves to.

My dog doesn't love his harness (but isn't as scared as your guy) and our trainer suggested we teach him the "Get dressed" command. I see you are essentially doing this, but maybe upgrade what kind of treats you are using? Also try to work on this when you don't have to leave the house, like in the middle of the day. This will mean you can practice when you're less rushed. I just searched for it and this looks like an OK video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOsv5xE0KUM

Have you thought about using a Gentle Leader instead? You'll have to be very careful about how you expose your dog to it, but maybe the lack of pressure on his sides will help. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074L4W2

My favorite thing that my doggo owns is his leash, it hooks around my waist. I love being able to be hands free on walks/runs/hikes. This is the one I have.

Dodger

Tychus

Kitiara

Piper

I use this in the rear of my 4Runner. Not this exact one. But it’s but this hammock style. The one I got was from petco and cost about $60. I’ve had it a year and it’s held up really well. Waterproof, machine washable etc

I’d recommend this hammock style
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07546Y6TB/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1523637118&sr=8-8&keywords=dog+car+hammock+seat+cover&dpPl=1&dpID=41j7KySDBxL&ref=plSrch



In conjunction with the hammock style cover. Get these seat belts. They will hook to your existing harnesses and clip right into your car seat buckles. No additional fuss required. Super simple. You can tighten or loosen the slack depending on how much movement you want to give the dog.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014W40TSW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523637363&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dog+seat+belts&psc=1

I know these exact seat Belts work because I had the unfortunate pleasure of having them tested. A guy ran a red light and hit the front side of my 4Runner at 55mph. The hammock style cover and having him seat belted with those belts in harness kept him completely uninjured! He was scared and shaken up. But completely healthy. No sprang, cuts, bruises etc.

Hope this helps.

I have this one and I love it. Really nice quality and affordable too. I'm pretty sure it could be adjusted to fit you. I don't have an exact measurement, but I'm fairly small myself and I'd guess my waist is around 24-25". I've worn it with a thin tank top and there's still a good few inches to make it smaller.

Thankfully I havent had to deal with this as if anything we wish our dog would vocalize more. But they also make citronella anti-bark collars which releases a citronella spray which dogs typically do not enjoy the smell of if you dont want to go the static route

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H3VAQ8/

But I agree that you need to train him that he doesnt need to bark at people outside like this. Unfortunately it may be a slower course, and sometimes you need the carrot and the stick. So it may be worth working on both solutions

I have a 9 month old Golden Retriever myself. And he was/still is a bit of a puller also.

What type of harness do you use?

I purchased the Freedom Harness about a month ago to try and address the issue.

And it has been working pretty well. I think its important to have the dual attachment lease (at chest and back) to help turn the entire body back to you. He's since seemed to learn that he needs to walk slower. And when he does pull, he acknowledges the correction.

Beyond that, I dont have much in the way of advice.

What kind do you have? I have the one the slips over the snout and around the neck and clips in the front. It actually prevents her from pulling or her head gets pulled back so it teachers her to keep slack. We had a trainer when she was little and she couldn't do anything so wasted money. We got a puppy and went to puppy class and the trainer asked us to being out older dog in that pulls she recommended this. anytime she starts pulling and stops we gave her high value treat (dehydrated liver). After one mile it was night and day, but every dog is different and I wish you luck.

Found it: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2

You need to train the dogs to stop barking, if they are next to your house you are in luck. My father and I both used an outside ultrasonic device to train our neighbors dogs. This will not work if they are too far away (like across the street), however the yard next door is perfect. I cant remember the model we used but it was something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Outdoor-Ultrasonic-Bark-Deterrent/dp/B000UZNLGA

It may take a week but eventually they get the idea and shut the hell up.

Good luck.

Edit: Just FYI after running it about a month the dogs seem to be trained, 2 years later and they still don't bark incessantly even with the device off. You may get a bark here and there, waaaay away from the fence where the device is located, but that is not bothersome.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009ZD3QY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1462830536&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=front+pull+dog+harness&dpPl=1&dpID=51%2BRtI0hWsL&ref=plSrch

I use this one with my beagle who is a puller and she does great, doesn't pull at all with it on. Good luck!

I got a similar one before looking back at this post! it's this one. I'm planning on putting her regular leash through it and clipping it on her collar as well. Then I'll probably be way less worried and way better at using the clicker. I usually just put the leash around my elbow and fold my arm if i'm treating and that is just giving me a lot of rug burn. lol.

EDIT: Clarity

I can't find any subreddit rules about linking to other sites so I'll go ahead and show you this one.

I have that one in small, it's too big for my kittens but I think small or medium should fit a grown cat, depending on how big it is. I've seen some others use this same one as well. Fair warning though, if you buy the lead also in 'small' size, it's very short. :)

Not exactly what you are looking for, but the Petco harness is similar to the Puppia ones, but the necks have a fastener on the back so can unlatch it and fasten and don't need to shove his head through a hole (which can be understandably scary for some dogs) and it is adjustable in size (both the neck and the band that snaps around the chest). We use one for our corgi and it's quite nice (one of the few nice things I can say about PetCo).

Otherwise, Amazon has a few that are very similar, but they have an extra 'band' along the tummy.

I also found these - a google search for "H Style Dog Harness" had some success.

oh, he is so cute!!! I let mine sit up front in my lap when he was tiny and now he always tries to sit up front, even though he is way too big.

There is a great little seat belt for dogs that clips onto their harness and into the seat belt itself. Great for car rides and gives them enough room to stick their head out the window.

You don't need to do any electrical mods. The higher voltage in the plus fixes the problems that were present on the older versions. The Z-brace mod is a good idea, but not necessary. It's easy to do and improves print quality though, so you should do it.

It's also probably a good idea to swap out the steel y carriage with a stiffer aluminum one like this, but again, it's not entirely necessary.

How is your GSD with bicycles? You can train your dog to run alongside a bike with an attachment like this. Its easier on you and your husband than running for several miles but can be great exercise for you and your pup.

Our dog Suki was actually really bike reactive and we were able to get her to the point where even she can run along with the bike, so even if your dog is startled by bikes its possible to train them to be cool with running along with one.

Important thing to remember: Nothing is -ever- mandatory unless it's a major safety issue. The closest thing to that on that printer is the mosfet. I believe your original message implies you replaced the buildtak, so the Mosfet upgrade would be a very good idea unless you plan to change out the control board entirely.

Everything else is Optional and Quality of Life/Print stuff. ^.^

The following are examples on Amazon. Other folks and posts may have better advice on where/what to get.

Y Carriage plate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ (This is the part under the heated bed)

MicroSwiss all metal hotend (From other person's post):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1HANLS/

Linear bearings would be LM8LUU for the Y rods. If you have the plastic bearing holders, it's easy. If you have the aluminum block bearing holders, you'll have to find somebody else to source info on the circlips and how to not become sad with them.

You can print things just fine without any of these upgrades, so don't worry about the long print (unless you run out of filament).

A new controller board can do extra stuff and is required (Highly recommended, since you "can" make the probe work on the Melzi board, but poorly and at the cost of other things) for Z-Probe use, dual extruder, and with the heated bed on that printer, can remove the need for a separate MOSFET. It opens the path for other upgrades, can improve print quality to a degree in some cases, and can drive you absolutely nuts trying to set it up.

The inexpensive Quality of Life I'd recommend are thumbwheels with nylock nuts (hard to turn, but keep your level for a long time); corner-bracket spring cups (printed); and glass print bed. Two sets of printed things and about $12 at worst for the glass.

The bearing upgrade (If you can do it without fighting circlips) helps reduce Y-axis stutter and vibration. That upgrade brought my print quality up hugely. $25 or so if you get a lot of spares or higher quality ones.

The Y platform helps you with leveling and staying level.

The lack enclosure has some printed parts, $20-40 worth of Ikea furniture, and up to $50 worth of siding depending on your ability to cut glass and plexiglass.

So many things you CAN do. None that you MUST do. Some that you SHOULD do. And everything else is Just For Fun.

Use this Gentle Lead for the pulling.

Trust me. Doesn't hurt them. Works immediately. They get used to it after the second walk.

Good luck.

I use these.

Amazon Link

I use them with my 40lb Pit mix in her Blueberry harness.

To my knowledge they aren't "crash certified" but they clip into the seatbelt receiver and lock. Definitely better than nothing and I think they will do a fine job if ever needed.

Sounds like the Easy Walk harness. I use it as well and once you figure it out it's easy to slip on and off. You can also flip it around if you need the hook in the back for some reason (say in the car).

​

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-BLACK-SILVER/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3TWSP09A2CF71&keywords=easy+walk+harness&qid=1555081978&s=gateway&sprefix=easy+walk%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-3

Halti brand head collars are just like gentle leads but they also clip to the collar. I had one for my boy and it was amazing and I never had to worry about him getting out of it and running off because it was attached to his collar as a back up. They come in large sizes. Halti Just in case you are looking for something with that option.

Here's a "self-help" option:

PetSafe Outdoor Ultrasonic Bark Deterrent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UZNLGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_k1j3wbEFKS1D0

It's a device that emits an ultrasonic noise that is unpleasant to dogs. It's triggered by barking, and unless you know what it is, your neighbor will be none the wiser. The dog will figure out that the noise happens upon barking and poof the dog is trained to not bark.

You would set it up as close to their yard as possible for range purposes. I know it's not free, but it is a much better alternative than calling the police, and you're essentially buying peace between you and your neighbor, and quiet for sleep. Seems like a small amount to pay.

We have been using our easy walk harness forever! It is a front clip which can help teach your cav not to pull since it diverts their walking when they pull. It is low profile so you can see their beautiful coat instead of a harness!

PetSafe Easy Walk Dog Harness, No Pull Dog Harness, Black/Silver, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3pb3DbPMSG2JZ

I use a puppy seatbelt. It’s a super short leash (dog seatbelt) that clips to the dog harness (NOT collar). And then the car’s seatbelt loops through the short leash. It keeps the pup safe and off your lap.

Vastar 2 Packs Adjustable Pet Dog Cat Car Seat Belt Safety Leads Vehicle Seatbelt Harness, Made from Nylon Fabric https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014W40TSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.NhACbA0HZJV2

FWIW, I just bought these seat belts for my dog, which are a great deal ---- my dog chewed through both in the car and I figured "meh, they were less than $10, no biggie".... The company emailed me to ask how they were and when I told them what happened they sent me new ones, 2 day shipping, for free!
Highly recommend.

In addition to the other comments about giving the dog more excercise, I'd recommend buying a head leader collar. This should almost instantly stop the pulling issue since you're now controlling the dog from the snout instead of the neck where they still have a lot of core power to work with. After 4-6 months of this, you can switch back to a normal leash; they ought to be very used to staying by your side at this point.

As far as regular leashes go, I'd recommend something similar to this one. Don't use a leash longer than ~6ft for your sized dog. Any more than that is unecessary and will only encourage pulling.

If the dog is a wrong fit for your family, don't feel obligated to keep her.

But, if you do want to work with her, there are a few things that I'd suggest based on your post:

1. A harness instead of a collar for walks so she doesn't choke herself. I recommend [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Ruffwear-Front-Harness-X-Large-Pacific/dp/B01M3U4G66/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479411295&sr=8-4&keywords=ruffwear+front+range+harness)
   
   
2. A seatbelt for the car. I know it sounds stupid but my dog is a nightmare in the car and for $7 this completely solved that problem.
   
   
3. Trips to the dog park or anywhere off-leash she can run. Play-dates with other dogs. Heelers and border collies are super high energy and while I understand you haven't been able to walk her because of her energy level, she's definitely this crazy because she hasn't gotten enough exercise.

I've had several dogs that used to pull on the leash a ton, but getting a Gentle Leader has been a lifesaver. It goes around their muzzle and when they pull, it ends up turning their head back in your direction and most dogs don't like that so they stop/slow down. Only $15 on Amazon.

Have you tried a front-attached harness or a Gentle Leader headcollar? The latter was amazing for teaching my dog not to pull. You have to train them to use it the first few times but it's so worth it - it's seriously like magic. That, especially if it means getting in a few visits to the dog park a week, will do wonders for your dog.

You sound like a good owner, and it would be terrible for your dog to lose you. She's still young, she's still adjusting, and you're both still learning. I live alone and have an energetic, social young rescue, too - I know how exhausting it can be! But you'll be fine!

He's a beautiful boy. You should be proud.

I don't mean to tell you your business, so please take this advice or leave it as you prefer. Having a dog riding in your vehicle untethered, while fun, can make the unpleasantness of an accident even worse -- either by your beloved hound getting hurt more severely or by way of him becoming a 50+ pound projectile, injuring the people in the car.

I've been through a few car harnesses with my basset, and the Kurgo Tru-Fit is the best one I've found so far. The best feature is that you don't have to get your dog to stand still with his front legs stationary while you secure it. It just slips over his neck and then straps clip around his midsection. His previous one was a pain in the butt for that reason.

I had a boxer, and the way we trained her was to get a leash that could also be tied around my waist, like this one

and then doing very short bursts of jogging, as every time I ran she would think its play time. When she would try to run faster I would stop, make her sit, and then jog again. After a week or so she got used to the rhythm and was fine. You can also incorporate treats so when she ran well without pulling you can reward her on the spot.

This is exactly what I did with my 2 year old rescue dog. Stopped walking every single time she pulled and told her to "slow down". In less than a week, she was barely pulling at all. Then we started obedience classes, and I bought her a PetSafe Gentle Leader headcollar. Now she heels almost perfectly on our daily walks. I've had her for about nine months now.

Please do not use a collar for a pulling dog. She will strangle herself every time she pulls and the neck is an extremely sensitive area.

I can only recommend you what I am using with my 110 pounds Rottweiler which is this harness. It of course depends on the dog and I have to add that she is NOT a puller only when other dogs are around and she wants to play with them. But I can guarantee you that a border collie is not a strong dog. If it can hold my Rottweiler, it can definitely hold yours.

Biking is the best! It's been a lifesaver with my dogs. I use the Walky Dog bike attachment and it's been amazing. My jogging speed is more like their slow trotting speed, but with the bike they get to all-out sprint. Plus my boy is fairly dog reactive but on a bike we go by so quickly that he hardly has time to notice other dogs.

I am a volunteer dog walker/trainer at my local shelter and leash biting is common. She's worked up about something and doesn't have any other outlet for her energy. If she is doing it in the same place every time try walking a different direction. She may also be doing it when you turn around to go home in which case walking a loop rather than up and down the block would help. You can also bring a toy so she has something on her mouth instead of the leash when she starts to act out and a harness that the leash clips to the back of is helpful to keep the leash out of her eye line, I really love the Freedom Harness.

Yeah, totally safe so long as you do it the right way. You get something like this to attach the dog to the bike and you use a harness, not a collar. Also, unless your dog is super athletic then you don't want to go really fast. I tend to stay on the sidewalk that encircles the park as well and I don't run here anywhere else but in parks. She also has an orange safety bandana that says "No Touch, No Talk, No Eye Contact" as well as a yellow safety vest. You never attach the dog to your handlebars or hold the leash while you ride because they can pull you off that way since the leash isn't attached to your center of gravity.

My trainer recommends the easy walk harness. I used it for my dog. Works great to prevent pulling. https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-BLACK-SILVER/dp/B0009ZBKG4

I recommend these. They clip nicely on to her harness and she doesn't seem to mind it. She is far more comfortable with this than she used to be on my lap.

This is the exact one we got

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7ND6E4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493777588&sr=8-4&keywords=hands+free+dog+leash

But there are some as cheap as $15 or less. If you search for "hands free dog leash" on Amazon, you'll see the options. But I've been really happy with the one we got.

If you still have trouble with pulling on walks, I highly highly recommend trying a gentle leader if you haven't already! It loops around the dog's snout (it doesn't hurt and isn't a muzzle, they can still open their mouths normally) so that if they pull on the leash, it redirects their head toward you. It's much easier to help your dog learn the limits of the leash if you're controlling their head rather than a harness that goes around the strongest part of their body! The gentle leader + treats method is how I finally got my stubborn pitbull to learn how to walk with a loose leash (thank god)

Ringing and banding is a really hard problem to fix. Ultimately, it comes down to making sure your printer is insanely rigid and its firmware settings are tuned in to fit YOUR printer.

I see you already dropped acceleration and jerk settings, which will go a long way to helping with ringing and banding. Make 100% sure your belts are tensioned well. That's the #1 key to successful prints IMO, and I see you didn't mention it here.

Consider upgrading your printer with a stronger Y carriage. Here's the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7

After replacing the Y carriage, make add some auto-bed leveling to your printer so that you can rigidly secure your heated bed to the Y carriage. The springs that let you level your printer now add springy-ness to the print results from the sharp movements of the very heavy Y axis moving.

The default Cartesian design's biggest flaw is the moving heat bed IMO. Its very large and very heavy, which means precise movements at high speeds is always going to be very hard.

Also, can we see some pictures? You might be where I am at this point, limited by the factors of your printers design on a mechanical level as opposed to the quality of the build and parts.

I have [Newfoundlands] (http://imgur.com/d9wVa2k) ... two of them to be exact... and they can be a real bear to walk. I have [gentle leaders] (http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398204696&sr=8-1&keywords=gentle+leader), which are awesome at making them easy to handle for me. The two dogs outweigh me considerably, and they both have learned to mind very well while walking with these on. I take them off when we are at home and all is well. You should try them out, they work much better than the choke collar without the fear of hurting your dog.

I highly recommend Puppia. They're nice and wide across the chest, and a bit padded. Two rings on the back for the leash, so you can choose how much control they have. My dachshund weighs 16 pounds, and we use a small. Hope this helps!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013N183G

I work in a dog boarding facility and have to constantly deal with dogs that pull everyday, usually German Sherpherds, Newfoundlands, and Rottweilers. I invested in this awhile ago. No pulling, no wheezing. It's great. Don't know if you have tried a harness like this but it is a great investment.

When my Doberman was between 1 and 3 years old, I had a Walky Dog on my bike and we'd go on rides multiple days a week. It was the perfect way for her to release her energy. She absolutely loved it and still gets excited when she sees a bike to this day. My only words of advice is to be mindful of the wear and tear running on concrete can do to joints. My girl is 10 now and has arthritis and leg tremors that's being treated with Gabapentin and Tramadol.

My dog has issues with strong pulling when overexcited, and I 100% recommend a harness over a neck-collar. The weight is much more evenly distributed, so I find it about 10x easier to control her when she's overexcited. This is the one I got, for reference:
https://www.amazon.com/Rabbitgoo-Harness-Adjustable-Reflective-Material/dp/B01M8JT6FT/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1538512912&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=dog+harness&psc=1

3 years ago I got my husky, and suddenly theres husky puppies popping up all over the neighborhood. Please know what your getting into with a Husky. They need at least 1 hour of full mental and physical exercise each day... simply expecting them to be a house-dog is just cruel to this particular breed.

Me? I have him pull a 3 wheeled trike in winter, a bike in autumn/spring, walks in summer, all 45 minutes long. One hour dog-park visits on weekends. Daily combing, 30 minutes of toy play every day I get home from work. He's broke two of these (never buying them again) and we've resorted to having simple heavy duty industrial bungee cords and a heavy duty harness.

Even after 3 years I don't understand him. He doesn't care for fetch, or understand the point of tug-of-war, he just looks at you funny when you throw something. He's crazy smart (knows how to open kitchen drawers, twist the front door knob, and knows how to unlock the gate to get into the living room).

My dog was in a fire at 6 weeks old when his parents & 5 brothers/sisters died... and has had severe territorial aggression (disturbed while sleeping can result in a deep bite to your foot or arm) issues we've never been able to address (even with behavioralists and medication). He's a big fan routines though.. which is great because I suck at them so we help each other out.

All in all, a husky is a lot of work, it's a relationship built on respect rather than "I am the master, you are the pet." You get an amazing friend that is beyond just being a dog. Huskies are independent, have strong personalities, and can tell when your having a stressful day so they'll always be there for you when you need them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009ZD3QY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UmQYBb6RFCGGD

That’s the link to it! Definitely a simple option and it works pretty well!

I used the Freedom No-Pull for my setter (60 lbs and skinny). Has velvet to avoid chafing. Attaching at the chest diverts some pulling energy.

Tried a flexy, because he likes to move around, but he could rip it out of my hand if i wasn't careful. Currently use a rope with clip (gloves required).

https://www.amazon.com/Freedom-No-Pull-Harness-Training-Package/dp/B005OPZY7K

Tons of trainers I speak to recommend the harness. It's a great product! My dog has a barking problem along with a pulling problem (although she isn't nearly as rambunctious as your pup on the leash!) so I got the Premier Gentle Leader (http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2). Like a harness, it doesn't hurt my dog and what it does is it closes my dog's mouth when I give a gentle tug and the metal ring is located on the side, so it pulls my dog's head towards me, stopping her from pulling with no force necessary. Figured I'd share for those whose dogs don't receive harnesses well and may also have barking problems!

Yea I found this:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009ZD3QY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2YAKNEWALNNSD&coliid=I1BYZM1FZH376B&psc=1

What kind of treats do you recommend for training?

Your right the amount of strength she has, she doesnt care about injury at all, its like a small bodybuilder on speed when walking her.

Hi my mom is small and walks our 140 lb leonberger. She could not do it before because he would see a cat and charge.

Please get a gentle lead if you don't have one. Itll change everything.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4RW

It just makes it so that the dog cannot pull with full force in a straight line. Its a huge difference.

Edit: he also chases rabbits

My little dog pulls and this harness is amazing for controlling dogs that pull. I strongly recommend it.

Kurgo KU00025 Tru-fit Dog Harness, Large, for Dogs 50 to 80-Pound, Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00164ZWBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZVBDDbFZ05F4M

I'm sure you might have heard of this already, but I used to go on dog walks with my neighbor and her dog is very reactive and aggressive with other dogs (she likes my dog though). She would use a snout harness kinda like this . It gave her more control if we encountered another dog and she started freaking out. I don't know if that would help but maybe worth looking into!

Someone has already posted a Zak George video on this, which you should try.

Also, what type of collar/harness are you using? The opposition reflex in some dogs can be VERY strong.

I've been trying for months to get my puller to stop. One thing that helped me a lot was a front hooking harness. I am using the PetSafe EasyWalk harness.

http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4

Properly fitting this had helped a ton. We can now take walks his first instinct isn't to pull against the harness.

The cool thing I discovered is all the no pulling training I had been working on he actually knows. He just couldn't get over that pull reflex.

Walks in the evening have been very enjoyable since!

This harness does not choke or gag my dog, and when he pulls to hard it draws his attention back to me so I can guide him properly.

I had a dog like this, none of the training methods would work. We ended up just buying the EasyWalk harness.

The harness makes it so that if he pulls you can easily flip him around and make him stop. Eventually my dog got used to it and would walk normally, although I still liked to use it because if he saw a rabbit or one time a deer, it's much easier to control him with the harness.

Yep, I had to get a shock collar for mine because she would wake up the entire neighborhood. Mine was too strong though and she would jump when it shocked her and it broke my heart, so I got her a spray collar instead that just sprayed annoying citronella and made her stop.

Both definitely made her learn pretty fast, and even just holding the collar up like I was going to put it on her would immediately make her stop barking. Only issues with the spray collar, was when she was barking at other dogs, she would spray them in the face too haha

I use a Puppia soft harness with my dog in the car with a seat belt attachment. It is comfortable and he doesn't mind getting it on or off. I chose it because I liked the look and design when I saw it on other dogs at the dog park. http://www.amazon.com/Authentic-Puppia-Soft-Dog-Harness/dp/B0013MX6GY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417190784&sr=8-1&keywords=harness

I use a seat belt adapter for my pup like this one

You could also try giving her calming treats before car rides to keep her a little more relaxed. They work wonders for my dog.

Also, maybe give her a pillow or something that she could snuggle with to kind of replicate your lap.

I use a harness that has both a clip at the front and at the back and a leash that can connect to both. He's a horrible puller, but on this harness, he's not nearly as bad, only in pet stores and around a lot of other people which is much easier to deal with in comparison to when I first got him in May. He's a 60 lbs pit/lab mix. The one I got is this one. It's easier to put on and it steers him toward the center when he tries to pull.

I bought a kurgo harness from Amazon a few months ago and I've been very happy with it. My dog is also medium sized and a little skinny. The collar area for the harness stays a just a tad bit loose but it's not so loose that it will come off.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00164SZMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499454451&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=kurgo+dog+harness&psc=1

I think it works perfect for my dog and it comes with a thing to hook to your car seatbelt when you take your dog in the car. Just measure your dog to get the size right.

I would recommend the Easy walk or Gentle leader harnesses for the pulling if it becomes a problem. Some huskies just don't seem to want to take to the "heel" command. Outside of that, I personally haven't found a need for any special collars for my husky.

At least in my experience, praise and treats are enough to make grooming painless.

Not 100% sure, but seems like people need to drill new holes for the carriage you linked.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2YI8XQU239Q2W

I'm about to get this one though, since y'know, it has the words "Monoprice Maker Select v2.1" in the title :)

God I wish a harness kept them from pulling. As the owner of two very strong dogs, a harness makes things more comfortable for them, but really allows them to pull you will all of their strength. A gentle leader however, really does stop a dog from pulling. Those things are magical for tiny owners of big dogs (see: me).

I have a tiny dog that did the same thing. However, she only did it when she was on a leash. Kind of like a 'hold me back let me at him' kind of scenario would play out often. I switched over to a harness like this one :: http://www.amazon.com/Authentic-Puppia-Soft-Dog-Harness/dp/B0013MX6GY ... Now, she hardly gets aggressive toward other dogs.

the Gentle Leader is what we use on our Saint Bernard, works great. I actually just posted this in another post: http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Black/dp/B00074L4W2

I have the same harness and it's great, much better than other front attach harnesses.

I was thinking about getting this for my GSD/Husky mix - supposedly it works great and the shock absorption for sudden movements works great!

I was gonna say this. It works great for my wolfhound. You need to get them used to it when they're young, but I don't think you're gonna find anything else that works this well. My 110 pound wife can walk our 180 pound wolfhound with one hand using this setup.

Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4W2

Works up to 130lbs. You could use it clipped into a collar, but I would definitely recommend with a harness.

If you're carrying people and a dog, this goes over the headrest, and is long enough for the dog to have some space.

Thanks, got this on order: RepRap Champion Y Carriage Plate Upgrade for Wanhao Duplicator i3 and Monoprice Maker Select V1, V2, V2.1 and Plus 3D printers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jlzQzbN4W6Y04

http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Harness-Large-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1376066747&sr=8-12&keywords=the+gentle+leader

I use one of these for mine. Works just as well because you still lead them from the front but not so stupid looking. LOL.

Have you tried a Gentle Leader? This was amazing for my brother's dog.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4RW

If your beagle pulls a lot, I would recommend a front harness.
Best thing we ever got for our beagles.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-BLACK-SILVER/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=front+harness&qid=1554853003&s=gateway&sr=8-4

I got the tuffmutt waist leash as recommended by u/phantom_and_ghost

It's great for my peace of mind. I don't have to worry about my dog escaping if I accidentally drop the leash.

Easy walk harness, specifically the one where it connects at the front - https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Medium-BLACK-SILVER/dp/B0009ZD3QY - Amazon could probably have it to you tomorrow :) I use the medium/large on my 80 pounder.

I'd also recommend this. I got it for my neighbor's dog and it works great https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Outdoor-Ultrasonic-Bark-Deterrent/dp/B000UZNLGA

As someone below commented...it sounds like you are already providing this dog with WAY more exercise than someone else who will adopt him will. I'm not saying this to make you feel guilty for giving him up, more that you shouldn't feel this guilty if you decide to keep him.

I think there are a lot of other options an ways to tire him out besides just running with him. You can look into biking with him, which will tire him out faster than it will tire you out. I've heard great things about [walky dog] (http://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453499821&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=walky+dog&psc=1) There is NOTHING that tires my crazy dog out more than playing with other dogs. An hour trip to the dog park will tire him out for the rest of the day. And I take him to doggy daycare usually about once a week, and he is tired to the point where he can't even keep his eyes open on the car ride home.

I do agree with whoever said that you should focus on getting your asthma under control first (I have asthma too) and then see where you're at with your dog. I have a feeling once you get that sorted out you might really regret giving up Arrow!

Im sure you already read all about them but Gentle Leaders are fantastic for leash training a dog. They don't act like a muzzle so the dog can still eat, drink, bark, ect while wearing them but they provide just enough pressure on the muzzle when they pull that the dog quickly learns not to pull while on a leash.

I adopted both of my dogs at the ages of 1 and 2, so they were full grown and already strong as hell (boxer/bullmastiff mixes are super strong for their size), and the gentle leader was a key tool I used to help them learn leash manners.

They hated them at first and spent the first 5 minutes trying to paw it off their muzzle but they quickly got used to wearing it and after 2 weeks completely stopped pulling while they were on a leash.

I no longer use the gentle leader and instead use this harness with the leash attached to both the harness and their collar. But I also keep 2 gentle leaders in our "emergency kit" along with an extra tandem leach attachment. The emergency kit is a kit I have put together in case something crazy like a fire or tornado happens and I need to be able to control them both at the same time when things are going crazy around us. It also includes extra meds for the one dog on a daily medication as well as enough food for 3 days.

not vouching for this one or anything, but this is the first that showed up on amazon. there appears to be two kinds offered by this vendor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UZNLGA/ref=twister_B01HCWZY04?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Pretty sure its no collar required

I use a full size dog cage if I'm going anywhere decently far, along with ratchet straps to tie that down via the cargo hooks. My dogs are 65 and 50 lbs (Labrador and some vaguely Shepherd looking thing that isn't a Shepherd).

For short trips, I have a harness that clips directly into the seatbelt. I changed my rear seat buckles to be independent of the seat back, and flip the seat back up... buckle stays down on the ground, and I clip the dogs in their harness to that. With them standing on the floor they can't get up high enough to get into anything. Once in a very blue moon they'll manage to knock the metal bar of the rear seat over, and the seat will come down on them, but that's still pretty rare.

The seat buckle part is similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Adjustable-Vehicle-Seatbelt-Harness/dp/B014W40TSW

You may need one of those plastic buckle covers that are usually used to keep kids from playing with their seatbelts, depends on their activity level.

I got a walky-dog for my heeler mix after we moved to Chicago and it's been wonderful. It keeps him at my side & has a bungee so when he inevitably tries to go after a squirrel he doesn't take me with him. I always recommend it to anyone looking to get into biking with their dog. That being said, I only need it because Phil gets distracted easily and will try and take off to the side from time to time. If you think you can train her to keep at your side it probably wouldn't be necessary!

What kinda harness you got for two?

I have this leash for two that I really like.

But I have these harnesses, they are just ok. Think I might like those more.

Rabbitgoo Dog Harness

Emphasis on the dog comment. My dog sits in the front passenger seat. About a year ago, I was almost in a collision thanks to an incident where someone ran a red light and I had to swerve and stop suddenly to avoid them. My seatbelt kept me secure but my poor dog smacked his face on the glove compartment pretty hard. Now I secure him with a seatbelt at all times. Here is the link to the one I purchased — it’s also quite useful w/ regard to preventing the dog from jumping out the window.

There are basically two types of harness styles I've found: strapy ones (like this) and more vest-y ones (like this]. My dog hates the strapy ones, and will scratch/itch at it and try to pull it off, so if your dog is really not a fan of their harness, try the other type - it could help.

I use the Canine Equipment no-pull harness, and it puts pressure on her shoulder area as opposed to her neck when she pulls. Its been a really great harness for her, and is similar enough to the vest-y type that it doesn't bother her.

I love the Ruffwear harness I got for my ACD. It's my go to whenever we go hiking on busy trails. It's well padded and very adjustable.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY7VUXU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VkqRDbVET47C5