Reddit mentions: The best dog collars

We don't live in Colorado (yet, we actually just started to apply for jobs out there and hope to move to the Denver-area later this year. We've already mapped out the drive and done some brainstorming about where we'll stay on the road since from where we live (Pittsburgh), it's about a 24 hour drive, so let me know if you need any help on the research we've done on that), but do camp (in OH, PA, and MD), hike, and road trip with our 1.5 year old Golden Retriever pretty frequently when the weather is warm. I'll discuss what we have for our dog's set ups.

Road Trips

• Car Harness (we use the Ruffwear Loadup) to help keep him safe in the car and to keep him in the backseat
  
• Car Seat Cover to protect your car
  
• Cleanup Supplies just in case your dog gets sick (my policy if that if you have them, you probably won't need them. But that one time you don't have them is when you'll probably need them). We keep a bottle of Nature's Miracle and paper towels in the trunk.
  
• Something to carry your dog's kibble in. We use the Ruffwear Kibble Kaddie
  
• Travel Dog Bowls. We really like these Doggie Bento Bowls for travel, since they're sturdy and the top one is keeps water in without leaking.
  
• Treats
  
• Crate for the hotel room/wherever you'll be staying on the road if your dog is crate trained.
  
• Leash and poop bags for when you take your dog out to potty at various rest stops, etc.
  
• Toys for when you get to your destination/your nightly lodging
  
• A bag to put everything in. We just use a folding duffle we've had lying around the house for a while.
  
• Collar with vaccination tags, as well as a tag with your home address (if it's a short trip) or the address of where you will be staying (if it's a longer trip)
  
• Doggie First Aid Kit (include items such as disinfectant, hydrogen peroxide (can be used to clean wounds or induce vomiting), vet wrap, gauze pads, activated charcoal, tick key, thermometer, ace wrap, scissors, tweezers, styptic powder, etc.)
  
  Camping
  
  
• Tie-out stake and tie-out line for the campsite. It's extremely useful not having to hold your dog's leash constantly while you're setting up camp, starting fires, collecting wood, etc.
  
• Something for your dog to sleep on (optional). We use the Ruffwear Highlands Sleeping Bag and the Ruffwear Highlands Sleeping Pad (we got both for over half off at L.L. Bean). Summit usually ends up ditching the sleeping bag and trying to climb into ours and cuddle though. The sleeping pad is really nice to have since we can easily move it to near the fire so he has a nice place to lay.
  
• Toys you don't mind getting dirty. We especially like light up and glow in the dark toys for at night around the campsite since we can actually find them once it starts to get dark.
  
• Food and some way to store it (we generally use the Ruffwear Kibble Kaddie for this too and store it in either the car or a bear box when it's not being used).
  
• Travel Bowls. For camping we tend to use the Ruffwear Quencher Cinch for food.
  
• Water and bowl (we use a Nalgene Bottle with a [Pupwerks PupCup](http://www.pupwerks.com/shop/the-original-pupcup, which when not in use, fits snugly on the bottom of the water bottle)).
  
• Treats
  
• Leash and poop bags
  
• Doggie First Aid Kit
  
• Light-up Dog Necklace to make your dog easier to see at night
  
  Hiking
  
  
• Harness/backpack. Summit has the Ruffwear Palisades Pack for hiking, but so far has only used the removable harness from it and not the pack (we didn't want him carrying the pack last summer while he was still growing and can't wait to try this summer).
  
  
• Leash and poop bags. We really like the Chaco Dog Leash since it has a buckle to allow us to clip him to different places, and you can adjust the leash to clip it around yourself to walk hands-free if needed.
  
  
• Longline or Flexi-leash (controversial, we personally hate flexi-leashes EXCEPT if we're hiking in an area where there are not many people/dogs nearby. I would not recommend it unless your dog has excellent recall in addition to the flexi). This allows your dog to wander a little farther away from you and sniff and explore on his own a little bit.
  
• Water and bowl (we use the Nalgene with the Pupwerks PupCup again for hiking)
  
• Treats
  
• Doggie First Aid Kit, especially if it's a longer or overnight hike
  
  Additionally, for camping, I'd strongly recommend doing some camping training in your home before taking your dog camping for real. We set our tent up in our living room and slept in it at home a couple of times with our dog just to let him get a feel for what things would be like before we went outside camping for the first time. Lots of treats were involved to show him that being calm in the tent was a good thing. Also start small. The first time we took our dog camping was at a campsite in Ohio about 20 minutes from our parents' house. We made sure it was just one night and that we had an easy-out in case Summit wasn't ready and started to freak out or disrupt the other people camping. Everything went perfectly but if Summit hadn't been having a good time, we could have quickly packed up and left and slept at either of our parents' houses where he would have felt more comfortable.
  
  In terms of hiking, also start small. Start with shorter, easier hikes that take maybe 30-60 minutes. Then work up to longer, steeper, more challenging hikes.
  
  Finally, for road tripping, especially in places that you don't know as well, I strongly recommend taking a look at bringfido.com and dogfriendly.com. These websites will allow you to easily look up different dog-friendly establishments (such as restaurants, hotels, parks, activities, etc.) in the areas that you are traveling.
  

Walking with the leash attached to the collar can be harmful. This is an interesting article with a lot of information that explains the potential issue that can arise from using a collar. A dog can receive neck injuries, ear and eye issues, hypothyroidism, malfunctioning in the forelimbs' nervous system, and behavioral problems. It concludes by urging dog owners to buy a harness.

Also note, many think that harnesses make dogs pull more, but this isn't true. The harnesses with an attachment point in the back are what do this because it gives the dog more leverage. If the only times your dog is pulling is when she panics, then using a back attachment point is viable, but you want sturdy harness with a grip then.

​

If you are interested in some alternatives (based on the information you've given), here are some I'd recommend:

Simple No-Pull Harness - I used one like this at one point. This one is really lightweight and non-obstructive. If you need a harness that doesn't restrict movement at all, this is the one. The attachment point in front is what makes it so the dog doesn't pull.

Gentle Leader - This isn't a harness, and it certainly isn't a muzzle, and it works well. I used to have a Boxer, and I used this for him. It stopped him from pulling, and if he did pull it just brought his attention back to me. Overall, it is useful and performs quite well.

RUFFWEAR Front Range - I use this one now and it is great. This one is fairly simple, it can get dirty if you go through a lot of water, mud, or the like, but mainly performs well. It has attachment points on the front and back, reflective trim, can be hand washed, and has a neat little pocket where you can attach ID tags. Plus it has a good amount of padding that makes it comfortable.

RUFFWEAR Web Master - This is one I have also used and it has done a lot for me, so I may be biased, but is a wonderful harness. I mainly use it for hiking only because there are too many noises in the neighborhood that could spook him (thats's where a front attachment comes in handy) My boy, Odin, doesn't pull much when we hike, so I can get away with the no front attachment point. It has three straps instead of just two, reflective trim, can be hand washed, and has a really sturdy handle, but it doesn't have the little ID pocket like the Front Range (not a big deal though). The handle is what is unique for this, you can use it to lift your dog (especially when hiking) or just hold them still. I also have a nervous dog, and sometimes if he gets spooked I will use this to hold on to him and calm him down.

​

Honestly, my favorite brand is RUFFWEAR because of their harnesses and all the other gear and toys they have, but Gentle Leaders and that Simple No-Pull are both good options instead of a collar.

1. Erase the retractable leash. Get a six-foot nylon leash. (You can get a 15 or 30-ft one later when you start working on long-leash training.) Make sure you remove the retractable leash. Retractable leashes aren't leashes. They're terrible accidents waiting to happen.
   
   
2. Nature's Miracle Laundry Boost! I love all their products, but you will at some point have to wash rags and bedding. I have also started putting some in with gym clothes, grungy cleaning clothes, my barn coat, smelly bath towels, etc. It's an AMAZING PRODUCT. It got stains out of my barn coat I thought were permanent.
   
   
3. At least one treat ball (we currently have three in rotation). Duncan gets all his meals in them these days.
   
   
4. Kongs! Kongs are great, we have like FOUR of them in rotation, at least 2 with a little filling in the freezer at all times, especially as he goes into a teething phase.
   
   
5. A martingale-style collar, like this one https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Martingale-Collar-Medium-Red/dp/B000JD1PUW These are ideal because the pup cannot back out of it if he spooks. (I've also found that you can find really NICE, unique handmade ones. I got one for my girl dog last year at our local specialty store, purple (boyfriend's favorite color) with snowflakes (we love winter), gorgeous construction and quality. And the proceeds supported a local rescue.)
   
   I wouldn't spend too much money on toys yet. You will want to see what his habits are before you really indulge. (E.g. we found out on day 1 that Duncan is a rope shredder when he went after our older dog's rope tug. He can't have rope toys, and I'm glad we didn't buy any new ones.)
   
   Good luck!

Here's my list of "favorites" for my GSDs:

Chuck-It Balls. By far, the most durable balls I've found. They've got some "give", so they seem to enjoy chewing/chasing them more. Remember, once the ball can fit between their back teeth, it's time to upgrade to the larger size.


The Shark Vacuum is a beast. We've tried any number of vacuums over the years, this one falls into the "Not Stupidly Expensive and Totally Worth It" category. Getting a decent Undercoat Rake goes hand-in-hand with a good vacuum. Rake once a week (three times during shedding season), brush 1-3 times a week, you'll give your back a break no matter what vacuum you buy.

In terms of training treats, we really like the Red Barn Chicken and Liver Rolls. After a while, we use them exclusively for scent training, but it's an excellent (and not expensive!) treat for any kind of training. Cube small, you'll get a ton of mileage out of one roll.

Herm Sprenger Dog Collars make great training collars. Not everyone likes the idea of a pinch/prong collar, so if it's not your thing, look elsewhere. However, if you are planning on training with pinch, these are the best, bar none. We use the small size and just add links as our dog grows - it's almost impossible to injure them with the smaller prongs and they tend to respond better. Please learn how to use a pinch before using one of these extensively - they shouldn't be used for restraint and you should probably wait until 8+ months (a number of people I know even wait till 14+ months for any obedience aside from the "necessities") before doing a ton of training anyway.

I'll stay away from food recommendations as it seems to be such a controversial topic. I will say that there are a ton of good sites out there to research - first figuring out whether you're feeding raw, tube, or kibble and then what to do once you decide.

Last - look for a dog club in your area. I personally like the German Shepherd Dog Club of America - Working Dog Association, but there are a number of places like this. I can tell you irrefutably that my dogs' favorite day of the week is training day. Nothing like getting out there with other GSD lovers and doing some tracking/obedience/protection work.

Hope this helps! Good luck :)

Do you mean she pulls/fights/struggles to go see them because she wants to see them (in an excited way) or in an aggressive fearful way? I didn't get a reactivity read from this post, but correct me if I'm wrong.

Your problem is three fold. 1.) your dog needs more exercise. It's a vicious cycle - you don't like walking your dog because it's a nut, but your dog is a nut because she doesn't get walked. Being a shepherd mix, she probably needs a lot more exercise than a walk anyway. Are there any fenced in dog parks you can go to? Maybe look into a flirt pole. Your dog would benefit from a lot more exercise than it's probably getting. I would guess she's probably strung up tight like a child's wind-up toy, and it's virtually impossible to get focus out of a dog that over-threshold.

2.) You need to get control of her before any sort of training can take place. I would get a gentle leader. It is harmless to the dog and very difficultly for a dog to pull through it, even a very strong dog. This should stop your dog from pulling you over. An no-pull harness might work, too, but the gentle leader is the most effective, imo.

3.) You have to train your dog to focus on you instead of on really excited stimuli. This is tough, and it's best to start with a well-exercised, tired dog. Start in the home, with minimal distractions. Reward and praise your dog for any attention your dog gives you. Have her sit by you and literally any eye contact gets a "yay!" and a treat. You need to slowly retrain your dog's brain to focus on you instead of other things. Once she's good at that, add distractions indoors (people moving around, toys on the floor, etc). Eventually, once you're getting steady focus indoors with distractions, move to a low distraction outdoor area. The backyard maybe. For some dogs this can be really, really hard. Use a high value reward (hot dogs, cheese, beef liver, etc) and reward and praise any time she chooses to give focus to you instead of the environment. If you keep at it, you can start to ask for focus in very stimulating environments, and then throw a treat and praise party when she gives it. It's not a fast process, but it works. I started my dog at 8 weeks, admittedly, but at 8 months, she can sit in the middle of a crazy busy Home Depot, with carts rattling around and lumber falling to the ground and people everywhere, sitting in heel position, looking up at my face. She can do this because I have paid her (in treats) for offering me focus so much the entire time I've had her. It's so worth it!

>However I think I have to replace the motherboard (not quite sure what the best word for the main controller board is). Why would I have to do this?

Because the melzi board in your printer (saying main print controller board / main controller board is fine) doesn't have enough memory in it for a feature like auto bed leveling. It's pretty much using all it's extra pins and available memory to run the version of repetier host on it (which is an older version before they added auto bed leveling).

>Could I not just replace the Z endstop switch, and wire the inductive sensor into the same inputs?

You could, but your firmware is still going to do what it's still doing, which is probe for X min, Y min, Z min, all only at 1 point. Auto bed leveling can be set up to probe multiple points on the print bed, then adjust the Z level in realtime while it's printing to make sure it's keeping the nozzle the same height from the print bed at all times. For example lets say your front left corner of your bed is at Z height 0, your front right corner is at Z+0.5mm, your printer will adjust the z height as it's printing left to right +0.5mm.

>If I do in fact need to replace the motherboard, what would my best option be?

Cheapest option is a ramps 1.4 board.. You can find them cheaper than amazon, but you'll at least need to get the arduino mega 2560, the ramps 1.4 shield, and the stepper drivers (A4988's are what your melzi board has). Basically, the display is optional if you want it to be cheaper, just remember you can't use your current melzi display on ramps though. That being said, changing over isn't too difficult, but it scares a lot of people away because it's pretty easy to fry a ramps board if you don't follow directions too closely, and it requires uploading firmware to the board (which means downloading arduino software, loading a sketch -- the link has a copy already preconfigured for the i3, but there's plenty of tutorials on the net for changing options over to using a Z probe and enabling auto bed leveling). It's a bit of new learning for new people.. but again, there's plenty of tutorials out there now on how to get it done. That being said, if you do learn how to do it, it opens up a lot of cool new options, you can pick from different firmwares like repetier host or marlin, configure lots of new features available in firmware (have the printer turn on LED lights when starting a print, etc..)

That all being said, if you want the easiest, cheapest fix, buy a new carriage plate for your heated bed. The one that comes on a lot of the newer I3's is prone to warping / bending and that's probably why you can't get a completely level bed. Swapping it out for a better quality one means you can forgo all that other work and have a bed that can be level with your current setup.. it's a lot less work and learning and probably a better solution that using auto bed leveling to solve a problem you'd want to fix anyway even with auto bed leveling.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

upgraded carriage plate, should be one of the first things you do, the stock one is flimsy and prone to warping, making the print bed extremely hard to level reliably.

https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend-SLOTTED-Cooling-Wanhao/dp/B01E1HANLS/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497736485&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=i3+plus+all+metal+hotend

all metal hotend will enable you to print at much higher temp, and increase reliability of the print head. not strictly needed, but a great upgrade if you want to print abs, petg, or other higher temp filaments.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HCVJ3K2/ref=sxr_rr_xsim_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3008523062&pd_rd_wg=sUxZ5&pf_rd_r=W5Q7RV181EJYGTBW4YDJ&pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B01HCVJ3K2&pd_rd_w=ZPXZq&pf_rd_i=tri+gorilla&pd_rd_r=F2X8G4XDPCVTNXX6J560&ie=UTF8&qid=1497736655&sr=1

heater bed mosfet upgrade. again, not strictly needed, but also useful for high temp filaments like abs, as you can run the heated bed at higher temps. also solves (small possibility, i3 plus supposedly fixed issue) of stock mosfet burning out and catching fire.

https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=i3+plus+cooler&sa=&dwh=295945a7ab3d0cd

print a cooling fan shroud, i use the ciiicooler, the diiicooler is great as well. preferably in abs. BIG quality improvement, the stock fan is useless.

these are some of the ones i use, and there's a lot of other things you can do, extruder gear, improved bearings, too many to count really, just a matter of how far you want to go for incremental gains. the carriage plate and the cooling fan shroud are the only strictly necessary ones though.

oh and i made my own version of this z-brace, don't have the files anymore unfortunately, but this one is fine:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631

that's also something you should do asap.

Oh, she sounds just like my 80 lb GSD! He's getting better with the jumping, but it's definitely hard. We just tell him "off!" when he starts to jump, and he doesn't get attention until he's in a sit or at least keeping all 4 paws on the ground, even if he's dancing haha. Also, we put a knee up when he does jump at us, just so we don't get the full force of his lunge. He'll see the leg up and divert to the side, or back down. (I don't kick at him, or push him at all, just put my leg up and he's learned.)

It's definitely frustrating when family and friends don't listen though. When I have people coming to the house, or if we meet friends on a walk, I use the leash and a Halti to stop him from jumping. I always have treats on hand to immediately reward his good behavior greetings too. We've been working with him for about a year and a half (he'll be 2 in October) and he's finally almost kind of getting there. 😏

Alternatively, if you're in Utah we could let the pups wear each other out sometime, lol.

One: it is not terribly difficult to teach a dog to 'heel' or walk alongside you. Googling around real quick will give you several different teaching methods to choose from... it'll take some patience and time, but it's definitely a worthwhile thing to get down if you walk your dog regularly. If you'd rather not do that (or are in a hurry to get this fixed), I've heard the best tool for this is the leashes with muzzles/loops at the end that attach to their snout. They cannot pull or it'll yank their own head backwards. this seems to be a pretty popular one on Amazon.

As for two, I'm interested to hear answers as well. I have two dogs that don't play terribly well with other dogs. They are both very playful with me, but not with each other or other dogs they come into contact with. I'm going to give doggy day care a shot to see if I can get them socialized (part of the problem is they just don't come across other dogs very often), but I'll be reading any other tips that pop up in this thread.

Yeah I’m not a fan of teaching by discipline. My dogs actually have 3 different leads for walks, because things work for different types of dogs.

I’ve got one on a Gentle Leader. It’s pain free, and easy to use. The only downside was it rubbed the hair off one of my dogs, so we had to switch what he was on.

PetSafe Gentle Leader Head Collar with Training DVD, LARGE 60-130 LBS., BLACK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ArVJBbSYWZN8K

I’ve got another one on the Holy leader. For some reason he was able to just power through the gentle leader like it wasn’t even on, but the Holt seems to work as intended. Same concept of forcing the dog to turn and look at you if he pulls.

Holt Head Collar Black Size 3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005OCXVJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1uVJBbW14C4QP

He third dog, the one who has his hair rubbed off, is on the RabitGoo harness. It has a leash attachment in the front, to prevent pulling, a handle to grab onto if needed, and a back leash attachment. They run a little big, so if he borders between sizes get the smaller one.

Rabbitgoo Dog Harness No-Pull Pet Harness Adjustable Outdoor Pet Vest 3M Reflective Oxford Material Vest for Dogs Easy Control for Small Medium Large Dogs (Black, L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M8JT6FT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NxVJBb472BM7P

I also highly recommend the Primal Pet Gear training leash too. It’s easy on the hands and fits perfectly when my dogs are by my side. My dogs are bigger though, so I’m not sure if that makes a difference.

Primal Pet Gear Dog Leash 6ft Long - Traffic Padded Two Handle - Heavy Duty - Double Handles Lead Control Safety Training - Leashes Large Dogs Medium Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072144JB1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pzVJBbPNSC8YT

I’ll look for my notes and post!

Start with a two week shut down. It's hard to tell anything until they've settled in.

She's food motivated and you can use that to help train her. In the mean time, no eating in front of her. Feed her separately from your other dog. Spread her food out on a cookie sheet or get a slow feeding bowl to slow her down. Break up her food into smaller portions and feed her throughout the day. Add low calorie, real food to her diet for bulk. I add almost all kitchen trimmings to my hungry boy's bowl. Broccoli stems are a favorite. Dogs not fed consistently can develop an obsession for getting food since they don't know when they'll get another meal. Being alone in the basement, maybe feed sporadically, probably bored and ignored is going to have leave their marks on her behavior. They can be overcome, but not in a week. By feeding her more often the hope is she starts to realize food is plentiful. I have two dogs with polydipsia, which is the water version of obsession over food. Small amounts all the time helped them.

She's a lab and you have a rabbit. Trouble brewing. I'd love a cat, but prey drive is a real thing and my dogs have it. I'm not sure it can be overcome. You should always keep them safely separated. You might want to look into x-pens to keep them both safe. Amongst my dog friends we call it living in a gated community. Baby gates and x-pens to keep animals separated. Not bad once you're used to it and figure out the system that works for you.

Barking is tough. We tried a citronella bark collar with moderate success. Once he learned that it only released the scent every couple of minutes he'd bark, wait till the collar went off and then bark for two minutes waiting for the next shot. Might be my fault since it worked great at first. Never really read how to use one properly. The sonic devices didn't work at all. If he barks he's put into a time out. If he's quiet when he'd normally bark he's given a treat and time outside. He's barking is greatly reduced, but it's part of who he is and I don't think will ever go away entirely.

Give her plenty of space when she eats. Don't feed her at the same time as your other dog. She should eat while alone. No bones or toys while people or your other dog is present. Set her up to succeed.

You might want to look for a behaviorist to help with the resource guarding.

I bought a lot of it off zooplus but you can find pretty much all of it on Amazon! Here's the links:

Carrot treat holder/boredom breaker


Hanging boredom breaker


Boredom breaker net


Wooden stairs/platform - this one isnt exactly the same as the one I have but very close


Wooden bridge #1


Wooden bridge #2


Grass mat


Bird perches or lava ledges, whichever your prefer.


Wooden cabin #1


Wooden cabin #2


Wooden cabin #3


Hanging bridge/ladder


Boredom breaker garland


Silver and pink sputniks but they seem to be unavailable at the moment - keep checking back


Pink and purple sputniks on zooplus


The triple purple/pink hammock I made myself with some fleece and cotton. If you search "diy honeycomb hammock", you'll find lots of easy tutorials on how to make them! It's definitely a bit too small, it was my first attempt. Go bigger than you think you should is my advice lol


This is the fleece I use as bedding


And this


Anytime I get new fabrics, I wash them, dry them, then freeze them for 24-48 hours. I also freeze any new wooden toys, products etc. Prevents a mites problem!


Sputniks are a bit hard to find on amazon, they only come in the smaller sizes it seems like. Zooplus only ships across the EU but Im sending the link anyway in case youre in Europe!


Also it took me around 4 months to build up a collection of this stuff, dont feel pressured to make your cage look pretty or to have lots of stuff all at once! All that matters is your ratties have what they need, and then you can build up from there :)

Hey there,
so I know you posted this a while ago but if your dog doesn't seem interested in walking maybe you need something to get them more excited like treats or a toy that they will only get during their walks. I think maybe a good special treat could be these. I would also recommend a gentle leader like this one and both are relatively affordable on amazon. It doesn't hurt them and you don't risk having your puppy choking itself. Hope this helped!

You said 'gentle lead,' but did you use a name brand 'gentle leader'? http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_1_3
Must study the dvd or youtube video instructions and apply exactly as directed. It seems odd applying the loop around the head (behind the ears) so tight--but follow the directions precisely.

I have a 115 lb dog bred to pull carts & she does love to pull ;-) This makes a 100% difference as when she pulls..... her head is turned around to face whoever's walking her--and that's no fun. Even my 5 year old grandson has no problem walking her with the gentle leader. She has little or no interest in pulling with the gentle leader on-I use a slim puppy leash with it. But she still will pull some with a normal lead. There's lots of useful reading on the amazon page: both the product description and some of the over 3800 user reviews. It does work for lots of dogs.

Good luck!

Not entering your contest, but I saw you had a muzzle on your list. I recommend a gentle leader for pretty much the same purpose, with the bonus of working on leashes. We have one for our small dog, and when we put this thing on her it zaps her energy. I believe it's mostly mental, so if she's barking a lot at visitors and jumping/lunging too much, we'll put this on and it's like she knows she can't do anything.

Now they can still bite or eat food with this, but in my experience it's great for training. Just thought you'd want to look into it, one dog owner to another! :-)

As far as pulling goes, you could try a Gentle Leader. It's a strap that goes around the neck and over the nose before attaching to the leash. It works by controlling the head; if the dog starts to pull, the Leader guides their nose back around, and the dog ends up facing toward you rather than what they were pulling toward. It worked wonders with our Great Dane. They're such big dogs that it doesn't take much effort for them to overpower a human. He wasn't the sharpest crayon in the box and always wondered how he managed to turn himself away from the squirrels he wanted to chase, but he eventually just accepted that he couldn't go after them.

Regarding his mistrust of other ethnicities, you can try counter-conditioning and desensitization. A quick Google search will give you some great guides and how-to's. It would be best if you could have friends of various skin tones help you in your training. But, if you live in an area that is not very culturally diverse, then I'm not sure what to do. Go on Craigslist and hire people for an hour at a time to train at the park?

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4W2

A gentle leader might be your best option. When a dog pulls, it instead gently brings the snout down and stops the pulling motion. That being said, it takes a good bit of training for a dog to accept this (as taught by the helpful dvd they send with it). Best of luck in your search!

I wish I could offer some advice, but I haven't had any experience with dogs who have hip/joint pain. If your vet thinks it's okay I would personally just be aware of any change in how the dog is moving (limping, walking funny, etc.)

I'm somehow just lucky in getting him to stop and start. I've been working with him for a while though on getting him to be better on his leash and some off leash things (at the dog park, beach, hiking) so I think that helps because he mostly wants to stay with/nearer to me. I also have a leash that wraps around him and behind his front legs so he has a harder time pulling, he still does but when we're running I'm able to have him close and pull his leash up next to me so he can't put any weight into it. A gentle leader leash may be helpful for pulling too.

Gentle lead- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00074L4W2/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00074L4W2&linkCode=as2&tag=herepup-20&linkId=H6FWR7WPUPDN3BMI

The one that wraps around - http://www.mypulleze.com/wp-content/uploads/Tucker-Pulleze.jpg

Have you looked into a training class? There are many trainers that have classes on mannered walking. Look into positive reinforcement trainers!

Basically you'll want to stop/even turn around every time your dog pulls. Reward the dog for walking next to you. It doesn't take long for them to realize what you want. Read more about loose lead walking.

Equipment is very important -- we use an Easy Walk Harness (you only want front clip harnesses! Back clip harnesses make pulling worse). Also purchase a Matingale Collar. The most secure you can be is to clip the front clip of the harness to the loop of the martingale collar.

Another alternative is to use a Head Halter (halti or gentle leader). When the dog pulls forward the equipment redirects their head so they'll basically turn back.

Harnesses and head halters are the most humane methods you can use. They'll give you added control until the training piece catches up!

​

Best of luck!

Nope. That harness attaches at the dog’s chest, which, while not chocking the dog, actually enables the dog to pull harder. Dogs naturally pull. If you give steady resistance, they pull harder. Let me get you a link to the gentle leader.

https://www.petsafe.net/gentleleader

And here’s amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4W2

Definitely check this out. It may be your saving grace with your pup. I suggest reading the amazon reviews — there are a lot of good ones of stories how the leader helped their dog with pulling issues almost immediately, although adjusting the dog to having a halter on its nose can take even weeks. I’ve experienced a dog that was forced to wear the halter without a gentle, positive learning route, and it was not good. She learned to hate the halter. I recommend taking your time with lots of treats as the DVD included with the gentle leader (I think that them giving DVDs for training is really so cool) will instruct.

Save for the one dog who was forced to wear the gentle leader, Ive never had a bad experience. I hope you can have better peace of mind walking your dog soon.

A friend of mine who has two 90lb dogs recommended the Halti front lead. Several others have recommended front leads and they're probably the most effective, gentle methods of training. A front lead, just like on a horse, works by turning the dog's head gently. With very little training, and some dog treats (always reward positive behavior, ignore bad behavior), your dogs won't pull.

I got these after one of my dogs yanked me down a flight of stairs, and have been using them for years with success ever since.

I would suggest a Gentle Leader. It works the same way people control horses in that it controls the nose. We have been using it to teach our dog to stop pulling/jumping and it is really great.

From the description on Amazon "Designed so that owners can communicate with their pet in a way they instinctively understand, the Gentle Leader painlessly and effectively removes the dog’s natural tendency to pull by placing gentle pressure on calming points and eliminating uncomfortable pressure on the throat. In addition to reducing a dog’s desire to pull away, the Gentle Leader is also a very effective tool in combating lunging, jumping, excessive barking and helping to calm an aggressive and/or anxious animal."

My roommate and I got a Select v 2.1 a few weeks ago (most that ship out from any retailers are 2.1s now, you can tell because the bed leveling screws are thumbscrews instead of wingnuts).

Just to get it out of the way early, just print a filament guide. Enough said about that.

You're absolutely right about the z-brace, worlds of difference. We also did the z-extension, not quite as important but it gives you the full print height potential. The fan upgrade doesn't do much for PLA from what we've tested but it helps on overhangs for ABS and the type.

I've noticed ringing pretty recently, which is from the springs used for belt tensioning. You can print belt tensioners that use screws instead to help alleviate that.

Bed warping is an annoying issue as well, that'll have you leveling your print bed at least twice a week. We got a y-carriage and got a piece of glass cut 8" x 8.5" x 1/8" for a print surface, which you can just secure down with scotchblue tape. Glue stick on the glass helps with print adhesion.

And just some tips for the road: Do not underestimate the amount of bolts/nuts/screws you'll need. It'll take at least a week and a half to get all the mods you want done, and it will never feel like you're finished. Finding a cabinet or some kind of enclosure is nice if you need it in the same room as you do your daily stuff/sleep in (like if you're in a dorm). Print settings like temperature and speed do more for print quality than any mods you can find. You will fail most of your early prints while trying to find the right settings. The bearings used are kinda crap and they make a cringey crunching noise, but I'm convinced it isn't affecting the prints much, if at all.

Any other questions, feel free to ask. We don't have the most experience with it yet but we've gotten a feel for the ins and outs. Welcome to the club!

The best thing I’ve found to walk a giant St. Bernard but also a an extremely determined low-gravity Basset Hound is a gentle leader. No pain involved, not a muzzle, they can still eat and drink and play, it guides them by their noses and will pull their nose to the side if they tug. Dogs lead by their noses naturally so they’ll stop the behavior which results in their nose being guided away. Has taken just a few times with it on for all my dogs to get used to it. When they do, it’s amazing. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074L4UO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.ohrDb8AX7Y77

Edit: I’m a 5’5” small-average lady. I have 0 arm strength. So these have been a lifesaver for me.

I'm a dog fanatic, so here is a list of awesome dog supplies for under $25, for those interested!
-[vet wrap] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UELUXNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9y2-yb13E3QJH) for any time you need to help your dog with his/her boo boo.
-[large chuck it ball] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084DRJKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9z2-ybMRKYDYG) that my puppy is addicted to.
-[topical spray] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025YKUIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mE2-ybRANQ1AN) to help with your doggos minor cuts.
-[slip lead] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QJU7FE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9F2-ybWB9FW9J) for quick trips outside.
-[Kong Zoom Groom] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AR1A0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_DJ2-ybD5EXKZH) for brushing out those thick double coated pooches without tearing the coat or scratching the skin.
-[treat pouch] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCWAWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_LL2-yb1WKAR0N) for those fun training sessions!
-[large pet waterer] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057LAGNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TN2-ybCVJN55F) so you don't have to keep filling up a bowl.
-[Kong Wobbler] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ALMW0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zP2-ybPN8N34J) for those really fast eaters.
-[Herm Sprenger Prong Collar] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0F8702/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4R2-yb0ZM4BGR), an excellent training tool for beginner and higher level dogs when used properly.
-[Red Barn dog food roll] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008DFOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wU2-yb83KED07), great training treats, and you can cut them up into any size you want to.
Let me know if you want more!

You're right about the Z motors, but I don't think irock168 was talking about the heat bed. He was talking about the Y carriage below the bed. It's flimsy and will continually cause leveling issues. The replacement from Amazon is this. Unavailable right now on Amazon, but you may be able to get it directly from RepRap Champion.

Other than the MOSFET mod for safety, it's the best mod I've done to my Maker Select. I rarely have to level my bed unless I move the printer.

Oh sweet baby jesus I want that DVD. But even the digital copy would be awesome! Game of Thrones is the single best tv show in existence!

So here's some apple products!

• Apple post it note dispenser
  
• Some apple fabric
  
• An apple shoulder bag
  
• And I have to throw this in the just because it's insanely cute: Little Shopper Play set
  
  
  GoTS2DVD
  
  
  
  GoTS2DigitalCopy
  
  

I really believe that the best thing you can do is to first teach your dog to heel when you walk, and then teach it to heel when you run. It makes your dog a better running partner, keeps them from pulling and general lunging, and makes you nice and compact on the trail since your dog isn't pulling their leash everywhere. I had great success with the
Gentle Leader head-harness and a shelter-rescued aggressive dog-- he would never go after other dogs or people when we ran because he a) heeled and b) knew he wasn't going far because of a 4 foot leash and a head-harness.

If you're running with your dog off-leash you need to re-think dog ownership, because you're clearly asking to watch your dog get smushed in traffic or caught up in the spokes of a bike.

There are leashes you can get for running that are made specifically to go around your waist and have stretch. I use one with my dog when I have to. Also my dog is a huge puller (rescue husky... can't get that sled dog mentality out of him) and the Halti works wonders. Goes around his muzzle and he pulls much, much less with it on.

I'm having top surgery in a week and have just decided to board him for the two weeks after surgery with a reputable boarder. I am lucky in that my wife will be able to walk him until I start feeling better as well. If you can afford it probably paying for a dog walker for the first week/two weeks would be best, and then getting the waist leash/Halti combo after that would make things easiest.

https://www.amazon.ca/AmazonBasics-Handle-Bungee-Leash-Green/dp/B074KRY2Y1/ref=asc_df_B074KRY2Y1/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292973975464&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16808357357053716272&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001582&hvtargid=pla-438064515061&psc=1

https://www.amazon.ca/HALTI-Halti-Headcollar-Black-Padded/dp/B004OB1F6O/ref=asc_df_B004OB1F6O/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292973975464&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=130123123144771330&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001582&hvtargid=pla-446729589058&psc=1

So sorry to hear about your dad, I hope he's doing better!

I would not expect Oscar to grow out of this, but there are things you can do. I'd drop the retractable leash and start using a front-clip harness or a head halter to give your dad more control and to be used in conjunction with training. Here are some resources for training loose leash walking that might be helpful. It might also help to work directly with a trainer, here is some information on how to find a good one.

ETA: exercise outside of walks is also important. This thread provides a lot of great exercising ideas.

Yeah I'd say bad bearing. The ones The came with my Plus were noisy too on fast moves.

I picked up some better ones from Amazon and switched them out when I had the bed apart for the Y carriage replacement.

Bearings (pack of 12 for $8.99 so I've got spares for down the road): edit: they're $10.99 now, Amazon having fun with supply and demand.

CTYRZCH 12Pcs LM8UU Linear Bearings for 3D Printer, RepRap Prusa Mendel DIY CNC Motion, Prusa Mendel, reprap(8mm x 15mm x 24mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE4H5PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6t3NqiIxMNsPK

These were longer than the stocks and fit perfectly in the brackets on the Select Plus. Haven't changed my X axis bearings yet.

Also, I upgraded the Y carriage, highly recommended:

RepRap Champion Y Carriage Plate Upgrade for Wanhao Duplicator i3 and Monoprice Maker Select V1, V2, V2.1 and Plus 3D printers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_bTZZKsFBnZWRg

Have you considered a Halti? It works well on forward pullers since they can't look forward when they're pulling - it looks like with the face harness you posted a photo of that any force from pulling would be directed along the dog's back and they'd still be able to face forward and stay focused on anything but you. It looks like your dog has a long enough nose for it to fit well and they come in a variety of sizes. It did wonders for our GSD/pit who pulled on a regular collar&leash, prong collar, easy walk harness, regular harness, sporn harness... heck, it's the only thing that's worked on him!

At the end of the day you didn't do anything wrong, you know your dog is reactive and he was leashed, he also didn't attack first another dog came up and tried to nip him.


That being said, do you see a dog trainer? If not it might be a good idea to reach out to one to get help, they can really help with teaching you how to train your dog to make better choices.

I'd also recommend getting a muzzle(and muzzle training) for situations where you might need it like the vet. Also a halty(https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004XNLCPC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_cvFKDbF4Q5J35 ) for walks. The halty isn't a muzzle but it's a useful tool in redirecting your dogs focus and if your dog lunges it can help keep their mouth shut.

For hard toys, the Nylabone brand lasts a long time for my dog. They come in a variety of shapes / sizes / flavors but basically they are a tough, edible plastic. We have a few and my dog is particularly interested in the bacon-flavored stick one. If your dog is interested, it will take a long time to get through them. (They are pretty hard though and some dogs may lose interest.)

For softer toys I have had good luck with the giant rope knot toys. (It's hard to get a sense of scale online but that one is enormous... each knot is about the size of a softball and the whole thing is about 18 inches long). The nice thing about those, particularly the ones with 3 knots, is that they stay together for a long time even as the dog has torn apart a lot of the strands. Probably not a good toy for a dog who likes to swallow the lose bits though, since it starts shedding a lot towards the end.

Kong also makes a bunch of rubber toys, although they tend to be more ball shaped than chew toys. YMMV.

I might be able to help you here. Having a husky cross, she would pull like CRAZY on the lease. It's bred into her, and I reinforce it when I hook her up to a harness and pull me on skis/rollerblades. So I've tried a bunch of things. It became especially important since I've moved from the great wide open of New Hampshire, to the cramped crappiness of Boston... I highly recommend the Gentle Leader here ... I used it for a couple years (I bet your dog will get the point in a couple weeks), and now I don't need to use it anymore. Sometimes if she is in desperate need of a walk and starts pulling, I will hold her lease right by where it connects to her collar and keep her walking right by my side, calmly, and focused on me rather than everything else around her.

I also heard the stopping when she pulls trick, and I know it works for some dogs, but it absolutely didn't work for mine even after a ton of persistence.

Hey thanks for that dog cake recipe btw! I am definitely going to try that!

Buy a harness, a harness is less likely to rub any areas raw as long as it fits properly. Front clip one will help "turn" the dog so they won't pull as much. A Gentle Leader can also work wonders by turning the head, however if the dog lunges at birds/cars/dogs/cats/etc. I wouldn't recommend.

Get a plain leash, retractable leashes actually encourage the dog to pull (since the dog has gotten used to pulling to get farther out).

You can exercise the dog indoors and only go out for potty breaks if you don't want to buy stuff just for the weekend. Play games like fetch or mental games like scavenger hunts (find hidden treats), or put treats in old water bottles, DIY toys work wonders. If the dog doesn't know any tricks/fetch you can start teaching games like sit, down, shake, roll over, etc. All good mental games.

Edited to put Shearaha1's harness suggestion.

I use this kind also to walk my half basenji 3 year old. I'm not sure if she has the same shape as yours but I also have it on pretty loose. Maybe the vet used it tighter than what is comfy for this breed. My girl has a broad chest so it has to be pretty loose. Other than that I also have to stay on a 6' leash so she doesn't build any momentum. Mine also took to a few commands while walking really well. And lastly you could try this other gentle leader model. It's really popular around where I moved and would not chafe, though I haven't tried it (just because I'd used the one I have now before I adopted my pup) but I would try it.

If you are looking for fabric things, you could try:

• something made of ballistic nylon. they still won't last forever but it is a lot tougher than the soft fabric that most plush toys are made of. Kong makes some ballistic nylon toys but there are other brands.
  
• a huge rope knot toy. My dog has gone through a few of them. Make sure you get a big one, I like this one. It's hard to get a sense of scale from the photo but it's quite large and thick. Your dog will slowly tear away the threads but it actually stay together for white a while, especially since there are 3 knots so even when 1 or 2 of them have been chewed apart there is still something holding it together. If your dog is an "eater" not just a "chewer" you may not want to get a rope since it does end up in a lot of small pieces.
  
  
  If you are looking for tougher stuff, my dog also enjoys Nylabones. Those are probably the most durable toy I've ever seen, although not all dogs are going to be into the hard plastic. They do wear down eventually but it will take a LONG time.

There's not really too much variety, but I can recommend Herm Sprenger as a reliable, quality brand. One feature to seek out in whatever you choose: in the link below, you'll see that there's a plate right in the middle of the collar. This serves to reverse the direction of the prongs so you get an even distribution of the pressure around the neck. It just works a bit better than the original style with all the links in the same direction. If you need to add or remove links to get the right fit, try to have more or less the same number on either side of the plate.

They also make a quick-release style that has a clip in the chain part so you don't have to undo a link to take it off. I use that type, but it's more convenience than function.

Here's a good collar for your reference:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006L0UGC/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482773092&sr=8-4&keywords=herm+sprenger+prong+collar+quick+release

We original started out with a standard collar (in the UK, we don't have things like Prong Collars or E-Collars and they are definitely not recommended use amongst the training community). With her rough start, she was already anxious and over-excitable and when walked using just a collar, she would pull so hard that she would choke herself.

We then moved onto a No-Pull Padded Harness (Similar to this design), which worked well with pulling until she realised shortly after, she could "slip-out" easily if she shuffled in a particular direction. Followed by 2-chewed-and-destroyed.

Then we got a standard Dog-vest Harness (This exact one), which has both front and back clips, and while this generally is a great harness, sturdy, long-lasting, like you've stated as a Husky Mix she thought this was a great way to sled-walk.

Finally we settled on the Halti Headcollar (This!) which was the game-changer and really started forward in her obedience and general walking.

​

I should point out, I am obviously aware that any Husky mix usually requires two to three times much more walking, that they are known for their stubbornness and their walking style ranges from "everything is fascinating" to "RUN!". I was prepared for this. What I wasn't prepared for the sudden change in reactiveness and the worsening of my mobility disability which took a massive impact on our daily routine. If I had known the extent of my injuries/disability would get to this point, this would probably be a completely different story.

​

EDIT: My point of using a Dog-vest Harness AND the Halti Headcollar is for extra-security, they are connected via cabling. I am fully aware that my escape-prone idiot could easily wriggle out of the Headcollar should she really want to. Because we live in a high-traffic area, I am concerned if I didn't have a back-up should she escape the Halti, that she would run straight into the road. Being connected to the Harness too provides me with the benefit of knowing that can't happen now.

It’s a house (they recently jacked up the price — I wouldn’t recommend buying it for $50 lol). I got it for my pigs, and they really loved sleeping with one pig on top and one on bottom, so I figured I’d put the little pet bed up on top, and they love it!

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Original Post:

Author: /u/xigneusx

Ultrasonic noise machines?
>Hey there reddit, I live in the US. My Neighbor recently decided to grace my neighborhood with a new ultrasonic noise machine like this one: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Outdoor-Ultrasonic-Bark-Deterrent/dp/B000UZNLGA
>
> He says its to keep mice away, but it plays all times of the day and can be heard across the street.
> What is the legality of this device?
> Is this the subreddit to ask? if not could you point me in the right direction?
>
> Thanks!

Honestly, I am weary to post this in that many of you may say this in inhumane, but I think it is an immediate solution.

My family has 4 chihuahas who act very much like the dogs you've described(one barks, they all bark). We bought one of these bark boxes that emits a high pitch sound inaudible to humans when it senses the dogs bark. This sound distracts the dog so that they stop barking. We only had to actually turn it on a handful of times before they got the message that it wasn't cool to bark when it was night time. It was incredibly effective, much to my surprise. I would think if you set one of these on your side of the fence and turned it on for a few nights at 10PM, the dogs would learn not to bark, at which point you could just return the box and sleep in peace.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Outdoor-Ultrasonic-Bark-Deterrent/dp/B000UZNLGA

They probably also sell these at pet stores.

I haven't used that sort of collar previously. I will say I tried a Gentle Leader with my 90lb pit/rottie mix and it was amazing. She pulled pretty bad, and I was having a lot of difficulty training her. With the Gentle Leader it was like night and day. As soon as it went on, she stopped pulling. It is definitely worth the $15.

Here's my dog: http://imgur.com/a/6AowK

Here's the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1501972494&sr=1-3&keywords=gentle+leader

Your dog needs discipline. I would repost this in /r/dogtraining or /r/dogs. You need to work on getting her to respect you. On walks you should keep her on a very short leash, if she gets any distance away from you she's much more powerful, so keep her right next to your leg, and tell her when she can go potty. The food aggressive thing is a bit more difficult to deal with but it will get easier once she starts to respect you on walks.

I'd recommend you get an gentle leader, it will allow you to control where she looks (you want her looking straight ahead, concentrating on just the walking the whole time) and it won't hurt her.

If you fix her behavioral issues you will like her more, you're looking for things to hate because she's misbehaved.

Fix the dog and you fix the relationship. Like I said, repost this to /r/dogtraining or /r/dogs except be a bit more specific about the dog's problems.

Have you tried using a gentle leader? Makes walking my beag so much easier. She hates it, but it taught her to walk nicely on the leash and now I just use a regular harness.

She's only 8 months old and you are definitely right about several things - she destroys stuff (shoes, couch, anything she can find on the floor) on a regular basis and it can be very frustrating. But she's also sweet, loving, friendly with people and other dogs, and amusingly derpy. Overall, I don't think she is THAT much worse than other puppies. Exercise helps a ton.

I use a Halti collar for my mal. He loves it and it really helps with the pulling. It stopped it immediately. Best thing out there for larger dogs that pull, IMO. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XNLCKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fWGPCb0BXC05C

Here are the bits. if you don't mind helping me out (I make 3d printing videos etc..) Goto my Video for the same links as affiliate links. Regular links provided here if you don't want to do that. its also a good video on the Maker Select Duplicator I3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpcm4XEbP1Q

It is not monitized with ads.

I have purchased all of these with my own money and use all of them.

you can save a little cash by printing your own z brace parts but the kit is not that expensive and looks DAMNED good and is super fast to install. if I get another maker/i3 printer its what I will use (I printed my first one bought my second one) I actually installed my Z brace kit while it was printing :-)

Z Brace Kit

My Video installation

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iuVSxyYoKk0&t=1s

https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Z-Brace-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B071SD7B4Z


Replacement Y Plate

https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7


If you have a glass cutter this is a lot cheaper for the glass 12x12 Mirror Pane

https://www.amazon.com/Darice-Inch-x12-Square-Mirror/dp/B002PNUZAA


Or just buy the right size Glass Plate

https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Borosilicate-heatbed-printer-Reprap/dp/B00GAV9SVU

Ours is a Gentle Leader Head Collar/Halter.

Thanks for the kind words! Super happy with the results so far, turned an absolute wiggleworm of a puppy into a beast that is much, much, more manageable.

have you considered a prong collar? It would likely stop pulling and is more minimal than the harness. it is actually safer than a regular collar, because instead of the pressure from pulling being only on the trachea, it is dispersed all around the neck. If you get a good quality herm sprenger brand prong, there will be a metal plate that protects the trachea. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0F8702/ref=psdc_3052412011_t3_B0006L0UGC i reccomend that one for most size dogs, smaller is better. You still have to teach the dog to not pull though, it is not an instant fix. use their kibble to train them on walks instead of in a bowl, reward for not pulling. unlike a choke collar, it is limited in how much it can constrict, and instead of a leash correction, gentle pressure will work for most dogs.

Buy

($6)Wires:For the MOFSET mod

($1o)MOFSET

($6)Wire spades:For the MOFSET mod

($8)Assorted M3 Bolts:You need some for a few mods and for the bolts you will inevitably strip on this cheap wonderful machine

($13)Longer assorted M3 Bolts:For a few mods

($9)M4 Bolts:For one of the mods

($9)Metric allen wrench set:Had to order one of these since metric tools aren’t common round these parts

(~$20) PLA of preferred choice- You’ll run out of the sample bit quick so go ahead and order a roll or two to be prepared. You will note some upgrades require ABS so a small spool of that to your order will also help.

($6)M3 Lock nuts:Critically needed for a simple mod

($10)Threaded rod and nuts:Please note that this item seemed difficult to find online. I recommend going to your local hardware store and getting two 5/16” rods of at least 16” in length. They should have an assortment of threaded rod in various lengths available. Also note that the pitch of the threading matches the nuts you buy. Further instructions regarding this can be seen in Azza’s Z-Axis braces below.)

($6)9mm Wrench for the nozzle: Don’t wait for your first clog, go ahead and have this on hand to remove/change the nozzle. Note to only tighten/loosen the nozzle when heated.



Below is the order of printable upgrades I recommend but I suggest you mix in a few other prints along the way because this is a hobby after all and you should be having fun. It helps to have your quality as tuned in as much as possible for some of these so be patient and keep trying if you need to.

Print

Spool holder- temporary : Until you can mount your spool on top of the enclosure or any other personal preference.

Belt tensioner- print x2

Z-brace

Shielded stop button

Cable relocator : It’s a pain, but if you spend the time to do this and turn your extruder motor 90 degrees then you can get the full Z height without ruining your cables. It does involve opening all the cables to the PSU and feeding a few extra inches back through the cable chains.

Cable shroud : Looks nice if you do the cable relocator.


The following need to be printed in ABS:

M3 Bed Nut retainer: 10/10 upgrade. I know they look worse than the nice metal stock ones, but these help keep your bed level longer.

CiiCooler

Glass bed Holder


Now that the first major round of printed upgrades is done it’s time to shift to a few more supplies to pick up to really fine tune the machine.


Buy

($5)Radial fan: For CiiCooler

($5)Glue sticksThis and a glass bed is magic

($25)Borosilicate glass 8” x 8”

($26)Y-Carriage plate upgrade: This has been a nice upgrade as I now only need to relevel the bed every couple weeks instead of every print. Check out this guide for a ‘how to’ as well as a free upgrade by shifting your Y pulley over.

($15)rechargeable dehumidifier: For keeping in the bin with your opened filaments

($9)Extruder gears: Might be able to hold off on these, but will need eventually. If for some reason you have a Maker Select with metal X-axis blocks (V1 and V2, but not V2.1) then this is a must. You can follow this guide for a how to.

($28)Metal extruder plate and lever: Not needed, but nice.

($14)Noctua 40mm fan: Not needed, but makes the printer a lot quitter. A LOT quieter.

($50)MicroSwiss All Metal Hot End: The destruction of my PTFE tube by this point pushed me to doing this upgrade. If needed you can follow this guide for replacement. Remember to tighten/loosen when the nozzle its hot.

($6)Ceramic cotton: Tore off the stock one when replacing for the all metal hot end by accident. At least its thicker than stock

Now that the printer is in its final form, its time for the enclosure which is a stacked Ikea Lack hack.

Print

Spool holder

Pi Case

120mm fan cover

Fan grill

120mm fan PSU modification: I edited this to fit upside down since my PSU is mounted on the underside. This was nice since I blew the 40mm fan anyways so it made everything a lot quieter than before.

IKEA Lack filament guide

Webcam holder: This is one I designed specifically for the webcam I happen to have lying around. The camera mount piece can be changed out no problem though for what ever webcam you have or buy. The SketchUp file is included on Thingiverse for such purpose.

Buy

($20)2x Ikea Lack: Luckily there is one right down the street from me. I am located in North America though, so we do not have the STUVA, if you live literally anywhere else you may check in to this as an alternative.

($80)Plexi glass for enclosure: Could be cheaper alternatives, but it looks cool

($9)Foam pads for feet

($42)Raspberry Pi3: For OctoPrint. I also suggest using a different USB cable than the stock one provided by Monoprice or you will have issues.

($9)2x 120mm fans: Used for the power supply cooling and enclosure

($6)Rocker Switches so that the enclosure fan can be on for PLA, but off for ABS

($15)Dimmable LED lights

($10)8mm LED light connectors


Total:
$250 printer + $452 upgrades/parts + ~$80 PLA/ABS to date

I can’t speak for 5fingers but this is the one my pupper is wearing above. We’ve had it for about a month & it’s been great so far!

BSeen LED Dog Collar, USB Rechargeable, Glowing Pet Dog Collar for Night Safety, Fashion Light UP Collar for Small Medium Large Dog (Royal Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCP1UQI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cqsIAb0PD52GF

My dog doesn't love his harness (but isn't as scared as your guy) and our trainer suggested we teach him the "Get dressed" command. I see you are essentially doing this, but maybe upgrade what kind of treats you are using? Also try to work on this when you don't have to leave the house, like in the middle of the day. This will mean you can practice when you're less rushed. I just searched for it and this looks like an OK video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOsv5xE0KUM

Have you thought about using a Gentle Leader instead? You'll have to be very careful about how you expose your dog to it, but maybe the lack of pressure on his sides will help. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074L4W2

Thankfully I havent had to deal with this as if anything we wish our dog would vocalize more. But they also make citronella anti-bark collars which releases a citronella spray which dogs typically do not enjoy the smell of if you dont want to go the static route

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H3VAQ8/

But I agree that you need to train him that he doesnt need to bark at people outside like this. Unfortunately it may be a slower course, and sometimes you need the carrot and the stick. So it may be worth working on both solutions

What kind do you have? I have the one the slips over the snout and around the neck and clips in the front. It actually prevents her from pulling or her head gets pulled back so it teachers her to keep slack. We had a trainer when she was little and she couldn't do anything so wasted money. We got a puppy and went to puppy class and the trainer asked us to being out older dog in that pulls she recommended this. anytime she starts pulling and stops we gave her high value treat (dehydrated liver). After one mile it was night and day, but every dog is different and I wish you luck.

Found it: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2

You need to train the dogs to stop barking, if they are next to your house you are in luck. My father and I both used an outside ultrasonic device to train our neighbors dogs. This will not work if they are too far away (like across the street), however the yard next door is perfect. I cant remember the model we used but it was something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Outdoor-Ultrasonic-Bark-Deterrent/dp/B000UZNLGA

It may take a week but eventually they get the idea and shut the hell up.

Good luck.

Edit: Just FYI after running it about a month the dogs seem to be trained, 2 years later and they still don't bark incessantly even with the device off. You may get a bark here and there, waaaay away from the fence where the device is located, but that is not bothersome.

You don't need to do any electrical mods. The higher voltage in the plus fixes the problems that were present on the older versions. The Z-brace mod is a good idea, but not necessary. It's easy to do and improves print quality though, so you should do it.

It's also probably a good idea to swap out the steel y carriage with a stiffer aluminum one like this, but again, it's not entirely necessary.

Important thing to remember: Nothing is -ever- mandatory unless it's a major safety issue. The closest thing to that on that printer is the mosfet. I believe your original message implies you replaced the buildtak, so the Mosfet upgrade would be a very good idea unless you plan to change out the control board entirely.

Everything else is Optional and Quality of Life/Print stuff. ^.^

The following are examples on Amazon. Other folks and posts may have better advice on where/what to get.

Y Carriage plate
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ (This is the part under the heated bed)

MicroSwiss all metal hotend (From other person's post):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E1HANLS/

Linear bearings would be LM8LUU for the Y rods. If you have the plastic bearing holders, it's easy. If you have the aluminum block bearing holders, you'll have to find somebody else to source info on the circlips and how to not become sad with them.

You can print things just fine without any of these upgrades, so don't worry about the long print (unless you run out of filament).

A new controller board can do extra stuff and is required (Highly recommended, since you "can" make the probe work on the Melzi board, but poorly and at the cost of other things) for Z-Probe use, dual extruder, and with the heated bed on that printer, can remove the need for a separate MOSFET. It opens the path for other upgrades, can improve print quality to a degree in some cases, and can drive you absolutely nuts trying to set it up.

The inexpensive Quality of Life I'd recommend are thumbwheels with nylock nuts (hard to turn, but keep your level for a long time); corner-bracket spring cups (printed); and glass print bed. Two sets of printed things and about $12 at worst for the glass.

The bearing upgrade (If you can do it without fighting circlips) helps reduce Y-axis stutter and vibration. That upgrade brought my print quality up hugely. $25 or so if you get a lot of spares or higher quality ones.

The Y platform helps you with leveling and staying level.

The lack enclosure has some printed parts, $20-40 worth of Ikea furniture, and up to $50 worth of siding depending on your ability to cut glass and plexiglass.

So many things you CAN do. None that you MUST do. Some that you SHOULD do. And everything else is Just For Fun.

Use this Gentle Lead for the pulling.

Trust me. Doesn't hurt them. Works immediately. They get used to it after the second walk.

Good luck.

Halti brand head collars are just like gentle leads but they also clip to the collar. I had one for my boy and it was amazing and I never had to worry about him getting out of it and running off because it was attached to his collar as a back up. They come in large sizes. Halti Just in case you are looking for something with that option.

Here's a "self-help" option:

PetSafe Outdoor Ultrasonic Bark Deterrent https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UZNLGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_k1j3wbEFKS1D0

It's a device that emits an ultrasonic noise that is unpleasant to dogs. It's triggered by barking, and unless you know what it is, your neighbor will be none the wiser. The dog will figure out that the noise happens upon barking and poof the dog is trained to not bark.

You would set it up as close to their yard as possible for range purposes. I know it's not free, but it is a much better alternative than calling the police, and you're essentially buying peace between you and your neighbor, and quiet for sleep. Seems like a small amount to pay.

Hug-a-Dog are awesome, and hugely popular:
https://www.dachshunddelights.com/Hug-A-Dog-Harness_c_60.html

For hiking & daily use, we prefer a loose-fitting Martingale collar like this one.

In addition to the other comments about giving the dog more excercise, I'd recommend buying a head leader collar. This should almost instantly stop the pulling issue since you're now controlling the dog from the snout instead of the neck where they still have a lot of core power to work with. After 4-6 months of this, you can switch back to a normal leash; they ought to be very used to staying by your side at this point.

As far as regular leashes go, I'd recommend something similar to this one. Don't use a leash longer than ~6ft for your sized dog. Any more than that is unecessary and will only encourage pulling.

I've had several dogs that used to pull on the leash a ton, but getting a Gentle Leader has been a lifesaver. It goes around their muzzle and when they pull, it ends up turning their head back in your direction and most dogs don't like that so they stop/slow down. Only $15 on Amazon.

Keep on training, keep building his confidence! It's possible that he'll have some strange boundaries forever, but you can take precautions like getting him a vest that says DO NOT PET or a similar sign that attaches to the leash to prevent him from nipping anyone. I also like this bandana.

Congrats on how far you've come!

Have you tried a front-attached harness or a Gentle Leader headcollar? The latter was amazing for teaching my dog not to pull. You have to train them to use it the first few times but it's so worth it - it's seriously like magic. That, especially if it means getting in a few visits to the dog park a week, will do wonders for your dog.

You sound like a good owner, and it would be terrible for your dog to lose you. She's still young, she's still adjusting, and you're both still learning. I live alone and have an energetic, social young rescue, too - I know how exhausting it can be! But you'll be fine!

This is exactly what I did with my 2 year old rescue dog. Stopped walking every single time she pulled and told her to "slow down". In less than a week, she was barely pulling at all. Then we started obedience classes, and I bought her a PetSafe Gentle Leader headcollar. Now she heels almost perfectly on our daily walks. I've had her for about nine months now.

i have this LED collar and love it. i wasn't looking for a permanent collar with D rings and such, just something extra shorty could wear during walks for more visibility. this one is easy to cut to size, it's not bulky on his tiny neck, and it's very bright.

It’s called a headcollar. It loops around their snout but doesn’t actually restrict the ability to open their mouth (like a muzzle does) and around the back of their head. The part that attaches to the actual collar is more for extra security, as the leash attaches to headcollar the Amazon description does a better job explaining how it works. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XNLCKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UdNVCbA7Q3B1Q

If you still have trouble with pulling on walks, I highly highly recommend trying a gentle leader if you haven't already! It loops around the dog's snout (it doesn't hurt and isn't a muzzle, they can still open their mouths normally) so that if they pull on the leash, it redirects their head toward you. It's much easier to help your dog learn the limits of the leash if you're controlling their head rather than a harness that goes around the strongest part of their body! The gentle leader + treats method is how I finally got my stubborn pitbull to learn how to walk with a loose leash (thank god)

Ringing and banding is a really hard problem to fix. Ultimately, it comes down to making sure your printer is insanely rigid and its firmware settings are tuned in to fit YOUR printer.

I see you already dropped acceleration and jerk settings, which will go a long way to helping with ringing and banding. Make 100% sure your belts are tensioned well. That's the #1 key to successful prints IMO, and I see you didn't mention it here.

Consider upgrading your printer with a stronger Y carriage. Here's the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7

After replacing the Y carriage, make add some auto-bed leveling to your printer so that you can rigidly secure your heated bed to the Y carriage. The springs that let you level your printer now add springy-ness to the print results from the sharp movements of the very heavy Y axis moving.

The default Cartesian design's biggest flaw is the moving heat bed IMO. Its very large and very heavy, which means precise movements at high speeds is always going to be very hard.

Also, can we see some pictures? You might be where I am at this point, limited by the factors of your printers design on a mechanical level as opposed to the quality of the build and parts.

I have [Newfoundlands] (http://imgur.com/d9wVa2k) ... two of them to be exact... and they can be a real bear to walk. I have [gentle leaders] (http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398204696&sr=8-1&keywords=gentle+leader), which are awesome at making them easy to handle for me. The two dogs outweigh me considerably, and they both have learned to mind very well while walking with these on. I take them off when we are at home and all is well. You should try them out, they work much better than the choke collar without the fear of hurting your dog.

Tons of trainers I speak to recommend the harness. It's a great product! My dog has a barking problem along with a pulling problem (although she isn't nearly as rambunctious as your pup on the leash!) so I got the Premier Gentle Leader (http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2). Like a harness, it doesn't hurt my dog and what it does is it closes my dog's mouth when I give a gentle tug and the metal ring is located on the side, so it pulls my dog's head towards me, stopping her from pulling with no force necessary. Figured I'd share for those whose dogs don't receive harnesses well and may also have barking problems!

Hi my mom is small and walks our 140 lb leonberger. She could not do it before because he would see a cat and charge.

Please get a gentle lead if you don't have one. Itll change everything.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4RW

It just makes it so that the dog cannot pull with full force in a straight line. Its a huge difference.

Edit: he also chases rabbits

I'm sure you might have heard of this already, but I used to go on dog walks with my neighbor and her dog is very reactive and aggressive with other dogs (she likes my dog though). She would use a snout harness kinda like this . It gave her more control if we encountered another dog and she started freaking out. I don't know if that would help but maybe worth looking into!

Yep, I had to get a shock collar for mine because she would wake up the entire neighborhood. Mine was too strong though and she would jump when it shocked her and it broke my heart, so I got her a spray collar instead that just sprayed annoying citronella and made her stop.

Both definitely made her learn pretty fast, and even just holding the collar up like I was going to put it on her would immediately make her stop barking. Only issues with the spray collar, was when she was barking at other dogs, she would spray them in the face too haha

I would recommend the Easy walk or Gentle leader harnesses for the pulling if it becomes a problem. Some huskies just don't seem to want to take to the "heel" command. Outside of that, I personally haven't found a need for any special collars for my husky.

At least in my experience, praise and treats are enough to make grooming painless.

Not 100% sure, but seems like people need to drill new holes for the carriage you linked.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2YI8XQU239Q2W

I'm about to get this one though, since y'know, it has the words "Monoprice Maker Select v2.1" in the title :)

God I wish a harness kept them from pulling. As the owner of two very strong dogs, a harness makes things more comfortable for them, but really allows them to pull you will all of their strength. A gentle leader however, really does stop a dog from pulling. Those things are magical for tiny owners of big dogs (see: me).

the Gentle Leader is what we use on our Saint Bernard, works great. I actually just posted this in another post: http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Black/dp/B00074L4W2

I was gonna say this. It works great for my wolfhound. You need to get them used to it when they're young, but I don't think you're gonna find anything else that works this well. My 110 pound wife can walk our 180 pound wolfhound with one hand using this setup.

Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4W2

Thanks, got this on order: RepRap Champion Y Carriage Plate Upgrade for Wanhao Duplicator i3 and Monoprice Maker Select V1, V2, V2.1 and Plus 3D printers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jlzQzbN4W6Y04

Have you tried a Gentle Leader? This was amazing for my brother's dog.

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4RW

I'd also recommend this. I got it for my neighbor's dog and it works great https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Outdoor-Ultrasonic-Bark-Deterrent/dp/B000UZNLGA

not vouching for this one or anything, but this is the first that showed up on amazon. there appears to be two kinds offered by this vendor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UZNLGA/ref=twister_B01HCWZY04?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Pretty sure its no collar required

I switched to one of these Gentle Leader Headcollars, and it's just been amazing. I'm not a big fan of the "string in a reel" leashes, especially with a dog that likes to pull while leashed. With this head collar thing, I don't even need to grip the leash any more, just a light hold.

NiteHowl LED I use this for night walking off-leash, he's easy to see. I like this one better than the recharging ones, I've gone through both, the rechargers don't ever seem to be as bright and the charge doesn't last as long. 1 LED goes months of nightly walks for us.

Reflective Vest If we are walking by the road I'll put this vest on him, but we don't usually walk by the road and he hates vests, I just chose it because he's too big for normal sized stuff and this one has a big range of sizes, we've probably only using it <10 times total, still in perfect condition but probably not enough wear and tear to tell durability.

There are better ways to take care of that, you don't have to kill the dog.

This should be done with the consent of the owner.

Have you tried a muzzle harness? I feel like regular harnesses encourage pulling.
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4RW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522659066&sr=8-2&keywords=muzzle+harness

This One, I inspected it best I could and it seems straight.

It's a gentle leader! It isn't a muzzle, he has full movement of his mouth. When he pulls, it gently pulls his head to the side, preventing him from pulling harder. Here: http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Pet-Products-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2

> I got it in November 2017, I've only had to level it about a dozen time or so.

Is that supposed to be impressive? A quality machine NEVER needs leveling, unless it falls off a table or something. Not to mention 4 screw leveling is fundamentally retarded from a mechanical design POV.

> I haven't had any misaligned rod issues nor any problems with the Z screws being out of sync.

Trying putting it in a shared makerspace where an absentminded noob will twirl one of the Z screws, not realizing the clusterfuck they're creating and nobody notices for a week.

> The carriage is flat enough for all intents and purposes

LOL then why does amazon have half a dozen replacement parts like this.

Look it's an amazing machine for $250, but you're delusional if you think it's not garbage tier mechanics and electronics.

An upgraded carriage plate is a must-have. It will help you achieve and maintain better bed leveling.

A 50mm blower fan with a printable shroud (e.g. the DiiiCooler) will make a big difference in print quality.

Beyond that, most things are luxuries or need-specific. For example, I love my Microswiss all metal hot end but you may not have any need for it.

Yes, mostly because she won't get hurt if she suddenly stops and i yank on the leesh. Plus, she can sprint ahead more freely and pull me if she really was going fast. I wouldn't go on walks with the harness, since she'll just pull me to wherever she wants to go. I use a gentle leader when we walk.

Gentle leaders and E-Z Walk Harnesses work well for controlling a dog better on a leash. Because they attach to the front, any time your dog pulls, they end up going off to the side. As for actual training, when you are out for a walk and your dog starts to pull, just stop. This will let your dog know that pulling is no way to get anywhere faster. If she goes even a short period of time without pulling, reward her with a small treat. The key to this is repetition and consistency. The less you allow her to pull and the more often you reward her for not pulling, the faster the problem will go away.

Like I said, I’ve done my research and I know what I’m doing. It might look big in the picture but it’s really not. I bought it off amazon and checked the tags just to make sure. It is the 2-1/4mm
Herm Sprenger Pinch Collar, 12-Inch, 2-1/4-Millimeter, Silver, Small https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0006L0UGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z1xSBbH69C8QQ

It's called a "gentle leader" harness. Contrary to what it looks like, it's not a muzzle. It's a harness meant to stop dogs who pull when leashed by tugging gently on their noses when they pull, thereby turning them around and confusing them so they stop. It's completely harmless and a much better solution to dogs who are large pullers than things like choke collars. Some dogs will pull so hard during walks that they'll constantly choke themselves, and these are a good solution to that.

I considered getting one for my dog but opted for a chest harness instead since he only weighs 30lbs.

http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Black/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370713106&sr=8-1&keywords=gentle+leader

Have you considered using a Gentle Leader harness? I had one for my rottie and it was absolutely amazing.

Yep! It's the gentle leader: http://amzn.com/B0009X0QUC

Something like this: Anti-Bark Spray Collar

The collar sprays a strong citrus smell towards their snout which they will find slightly unpleasant. This causes them to make the correlation that if they bark, the room will smell bad. They recommend putting the collar on the dog for 24-48 hours beforehand to get them familiar with it (so they don't associate the smell with the collar). It was extremely effective and I haven't had to use it ever since the first week I used it.

This is back in stock by the way. The below link is a newer version of the one in the original post. I just ordered one. :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No problem, hope it helps! Also, for no pull leads for dogs I really like the Gentle Leader and the Easy Walk if that's an option you are also interested in for general leash walking manners.

I've never used OPs harness. Our problem pooch uses the Gentle Leader which works wonders since it controls her head (and is thus uncomfortable to pull). The Easy Walk worked for her until she learned to manipulate it, but is still a great tool for our non-problem pooches, and is probably less easily manipulated when walking one.

Especially a no pull harness or even a gentle leader (although the Holt Head collar is apparently better). My dog pulls HARD when we go on walks. I can't describe how much better she is with the easy walk harness or head collar.

Just curious why the pronged choker? Is he particularly aggressive?
My english is sweet enough that I've never needed anything other than a gentle leader during training.

I loved the Gentle Leader when training my Dobie. I can't upvote it enough for use to train dogs to walk with you.

Though I did get a lot of people with misconceptions that thought I had a muzzle on him.

RepRap Champion has come out with a new plate for the Wanhao that doesn't require drilling. Your choice of 3 or 4 bearings also.


Edit: Oops, not available yet. May need printed belt mount.

Not a harness but the gentle leader was a game changer for our 60lb doodle.check it out

These work pretty well most of the time. I've used them to take care of neighbor dogs who bark all the damn time. It doesn't hurt them either, it's just a loud annoying sound you can't hear.

Has no one ever heard of a head collar? Best $20 you can spend if you have medium to large dog that pulls on a leash.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JAd0Bb5JE6THC.


On sale for $10 on Amazon right now.

I don’t usually take my dog out when it’s that cold but this has withstood decently cold temps.

Nite Ize NiteHowl LED Dog Light Collar Safety Necklace - Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKPTWIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nM4O6YHIX9xr7

It might just be hard to get the leash unhooked from the collar when the elevator is pulling it against gravity so hard. Throwing your weight on it is gonna help the initial tugh on your pooch but at some point you'd have to stop the thing.

I guess ideally you'd have some sort of collar you could just yank right over their head like one of these bad boys, but I'm sure not every dog's head is small enough to slide out without unclipping theirs :/

What type of lead is Rocco on when he's on his walk? It's common to have pulling/rambunctious pup problems while they are young when using just a collar. We've used a harness and over time all pulling and unwanted behavior has virtually stopped.

For other issues, I'd suggest a gentle lead, which for some reason seems to nullify all of most dogs problems when walking. When you first start using the gentle lead, only put it on for a few minutes with a ton of treats and then work up to using it for a 5 min walk or so. Eventually, the lead will be natural and Rocco might stop this behavior. After he matures a bit more, you can go back to the regular collar/harness.

When our V was about one, she would always start off our little jogs (we'd go for about .5 miles at that age) by getting really excited and trying to bite me/the leash. After about 30 seconds of powering through, she would get into stride. She just was really excited that we were doing something different. Over time, as we worked up her mileage she completely stopped trying to nip at us once she realized it was a regular thing.

Outside of that could your partner make all of her walking sessions complete training sessions? Take a huge bag of treats and work on heel and sitting every few steps? I think if you had Rocco focused on training, he might not even get around to this behavior. It would be a little annoying at first, because it makes a quick walk to use the bathroom much more involved. It might help refocus him though.

It's a head halter. Discourages pulling, helps you control the dog. It is effective in conjunction with training, and you have to desensitize your dog to wearing it at first because most don't like the sensation. The most common ones are the Gentle Leader and the Halti, the Infinity Lead/Perfect Pace is a slightly different design. I use a Gentle Leader.

You might also consider front-clip harnesses like the Easy Walk, Freedom Harness, or the Sense-ation. The Harness Lead is another option that is not a front-clip but discourages pulling if your dog is hard to fit. Many people prefer harnesses because they are more comfortable for the dogs than head halters. The downside is that they offer less control and some dogs can slip out of them (not an issue with the Harness Lead).

Edit: Fixed links

Edit 2: I just noticed in that photo that they're using a chain leash with the head halter and wanted to note that this is not ideal. Chain leashes are heavy and so will always be putting pressure on the head halter. The reason this is bad is because pressure on the head halter is how you signal to the dog that it's doing something inappropriate. If you end up using a head halter, use a normal light leash.

I have 2 standards that also pull a lot. They have pulled me down before when they saw a squirrel.

I have consistently worked on the behavior for a couple of years and have seen some improvement. But, I still use a Gentle Leader when we go on walks in case they see a squirrel...

In addition to the Gentle Leader, my husband and I have found that a short, quiet "hey" will get their attention and help them re-focus on one of us. The "hey" is not reprimanding or aggressive but more positive.

Another technique a professional trainer suggested with training puppies is to have the puppy on a long leash 100% of the time. Then when they are doing something wrong (like getting into trash or pulling on a walk) snap the leash to get their attention. This way you get their attention and without having to reprimand them, which can create fear. (I have not used this technique.)

Get an ultrasonic bark deterrent. I had one several years ago and it worked like magic.

LIKE MAGIC!!!

You could try a halti on the face.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Company-of-Animals-HH022P-Headcollar/dp/B004OB1F6O

It's not painful for them and they are a lot easier to control.

But yeah...just be mindful of the dog as mentioned elsewhere. Not all dogs like to run.

I found out today mine will stop if I go under a 9 minute mile. Which is fair enough!

Have you ever tried a halti? I use on on my b. collie and it works better than anything else I've tried.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004XNLCPC?pc_redir=1410586416&robot_redir=1

I bought it forever ago but it’s like this
gentle leader link

You're NTA OP, but you should consider getting either vest or leash cover that says "do not pet" on it. Something like this-

Canine Friendly Bark Notes Patch for Collar or Leash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JCKRX5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1KxuDbCY1TD7F

They have a spray collar that gives a burst of air when barking, I used successfully with a hound dog. spray collar

I don't want to grow up at all ever. This adorable shopping set toy is on my kiddo's X-Mas list. :)

That collar is gross we used to have one when I was a kid and it's really not necessary. Head collars work much better.


https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=gentle+leader&qid=1574174400&sr=8-4


Funny dog tho.

no, just motion. Weatherproof, yes.

Sounds like you need this

Try using a Gentle Leader for a while, this helped me with my German Shepherd Dog. http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Black/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370921397&sr=8-1&keywords=gentle+leader

Gentle leaders work better in my experience, it's basically impossible for the dog to pull.

Try this. I had one and it worked great. Neighbors will just think it is a decoration.


PetSafe Outdoor Ultrasonic Bark Deterrent, Up to 50 ft. Range, Outdoor Use Only, No Collar Needed


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UZNLGA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_q5lZCb29D2G22

https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500388304&sr=8-1&keywords=wanhao+plate

This is a good replacement

The neighbors behind us had a dog that they would let out at 5am every day and just leave him outside all day and he would just bark facing our house for 14 straight hours starting at 5am. It kept waking us up. We asked them nicely half a dozen times if they could please not leave their dog out barking at 5am or all day long and they first brushed us off and after the 4th or 5th time said 'wow all this whining is annoying, just deal with it'.

So, we bought a dog bark deterrent on amazon (this one specifically), set it up on a pole right at our fence line facing directly at their back yard, set it to high sensitivity, and left it.

After one day their dog wouldn't go out into the back yard anymore. Apparently it started pooping and peeing in their house. They actually wrote a letter to the HOA complaining about our dog bark deterrent and asking the HOA to make us take it down. We responded to the HOA telling them how long the barking had been going on and that it's a sonic based deterrent, they said 'ok fine'.

About 8 months later the bark deterrent broke, but the problem never started back up so I guess the dog or the owners learned their lesson and made adjustments. Was the best purchase I ever made.

Note that, as far as I'm aware the bark deterrent doesn't work well on small dogs (the dog we had a problem with was a lab), which is probably partially why it has bad reviews. It worked amazing for us though.

Installation was actually pretty simple; I watched https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQL8PS3erqI a couple of times first to familiarize myself with the process, tho I got the cheaper version of the kit without a replacement cooling block. As to recalibration, I am having to do some tweaking, however, I also upgraded my Z-axis carriage plate at the same time, to a much thicker (heavier) plate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7) which has (along with z-brace mod, done a couple months ago) practically eliminated the need to bed-level after every print. The heavier plate introduced some Y-axis ghosting, which lead me to lower y-axis acceleration, as well as adding some belt clips (www.thingiverse.com/thing:1784375) & tightening the X- and Y-axis belts. The one issue I'm having with the new hotend specifically is that it tends to extrude a bit while heating up. I've played with some retraction settings, but haven't really resolved that yet.

please tell me you arnt using one of those retractable leashes. Get a no pull head harness like either of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074L4W2
https://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Trainer-Halter-Black-Strap/dp/B009ECY3QC

Presumably they can read, though. Maybe something like this as a compromise? https://www.amazon.com/Canine-Friendly-Notes-Patch-Collar/dp/B01JCKRX5S/

Lead length is something I wouldn't expect a non-owner to pick up on.

You should consider a muzzle for areas in which children are present and you may be distracted (which it sounds like happened here, given the lead length).

I'd recommend picking up a gentle leader, just as I've done before.

I like the head collar. Tightens as they pull and it makes their head turn towards me if they pull too far

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2

Try walking him with leash / collar like this one.

Maybe try something like this?

Something like this is probably what you're looking for.

So, you're looking for a collar that doesn't use a quick release buckle and a hands free type leash without the talan/lobster claw clasp?

How about a martingale collar. They can be somewhat difficult to get on and off and shouldn't be left on when the dog isn't supervised. Or a buckle collar. This might not be a good idea though if your dog doesn't like the collar to be messed around with since you would need to buckle it every time.

Drag free leashes

Is there a reason you dont like harnesses?

The night it came I adjusted the harness and then we went and played fetch in the yard. She was frolicking about as per usual. I did notice that she didn't pull as much with the pack on. Normally I have to use a halti but was able to loose lead for the majority of the hike yesterday.

I've read you should work up the weight slowly so they can build their endurance. Yesterday I just added a few light things, but next time I'll probably add some small water bottles just for her. We were sharing my 24 oz bottle and ran out by the summit.

I have an aunt that has a great dane that weighs almost as much as she does. Similar problems with pulling, and they were completely solved by using a gentle leader. Most dogs take a little bit to adjust to it, but once you get the straps adjusted correctly they don't mind it at all.

These work really well:

http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Pet-Products-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2

I prefer the halter style collars for dogs that like to pull. It goes around their neck and nose and makes it very easy to control their heads.

The only downside is that to some people they look like muzzles and that can scare some people at the park.

I think I have a Gentle Leader at home. Initially my dog hated it and tried to paw it off. Eventually she associated it with going for walks and now she gets very excited when I pull it out. Also note that a halter will still allow your dog to eat/drink/bark/etc while they are wearing it.

They do look scary, but when you see how they work - its not that bid of a deal. I actually put it on my own neck to test it out. I will say make sure you get a good one where the prongs are rounded and not just squared off.

I have had it come off once while walking her, but I think it was user error. My wife and boys have no issues with it.

The other solution we use with our beagle/basset is the gentle leader

Get one of these. We have a pup as well and he hasn't pulled in months since using this on walks

Herm. Sprenger® Ultra-Plus Prong Training Collar, 2.25 mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006L0UGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_C4QLxbF7RCRXF

I'm a man and I've had other guys make comments like "who is training who?" at the dog park when my dog doesn't bring a ball back and I have to go get it. It's definitely annoying and I have to bite my tongue from making smart ass remarks.

I know you said you aren't looking for advice, but my dog is also crazy on walks and very reactive. We started using a gentle leader head collar and it made a night and day difference.

We still work on training the normal way during walks, but the gentle leader makes it way easier to pull him away from whatever he is lunging at on the occasion that the training fails and he reacts to something.

Is it perhaps a head collar and not a full blown muzzle? I use a head collar on my lab cause she pulls when she's excited; its just a strap over her nose and around the back of her head, leash hooks under the mouth. Mine would also never hurt someone but it does keep her from opening her mouth enough to bite.


Gentle Leader


Edit: I only ask because people often think she's wearing a muzzle or ask why my dog wearing a muzzle when she's really not.

Here's the amazon page

Uhh, I dunno, the normal one? I didn't realize there were different types. Got it on Amazon here: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0009X0QUC/

Also on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0qlgAb9BE509W

I was in your exact position. I used this to stop the pulling (or at least make it manageable) and this as a safety precaution for broken leashes, where you attach 1 end to their regular collar and the other end to the gentle leader harness (make the end attaching to the regular collar longer than the other so it only gets pulled on if the other attachment fails) and there ya go. An anti-pull harness with a fail safe!. (Also make sure not to cheap out on your primary leash)

I have two active dogs. Without their gentle leaders they are the worst. As soon as you put them on. They are fantastic dogs on walks/runs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00074L4W2/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480889987&sr=1

Have you tried something like the Halti? We use it for our dog--basically, when they pull, it pulls their face down so they're looking at the ground. Eventually they learn not to pull because it interrupts their fun walking time!

I would also consider working with your dog to teach him how to walk without pulling. You can google different methods, but one method that works well is basically every time he pulls, stop the walk. When he's calm again, resume the walk. He'll learn that pulling is boring because every time he does, the walk stops.

you might want to get one of these

Get a front clipping harness. It drastically reduced my own dog's pulling and makes it easier to train loose leash walking. You could also look into a head halter, but that requires some training to get the dog acclimated to it.

A Gentle Leader would of prevented this.

I use a head harness. If he tries to pull it'll pull his head downward. My dog is a bit bigger but it works for him.

Unless paired with a gentle leader

gentle leader

Gentle leader is a brand name for a head collar.

http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Pet-Products-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2

Depending on how far away the dogs are from your property, you could try one of those ultrasonic anti-barking devices: http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Outdoor-Ultrasonic-Bark-Deterrent/dp/B000UZNLGA

Here is the mobile version of your link

Try a halti head collar.

http://www.amazon.com/Company-Animals-Halti-Collar-Black/dp/B004XNLCPC

I understanding have a preferred harness

Try a leash wrap that can also go over the clip on some harnesses, or around the dog’s collar.

Here’s one option , and another.

I bought mine here.
https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519150264&sr=8-1&keywords=maker+select+2.1

Printed on a Maker Select V2 with the following mods:
 

Micro Swiss all metal hotend
 

Ciii cooler with radial fan
 

Z-braces
 

Upgrades Y carriage

 

Printer settings:
 

BamTack PLA
 

Hotend at 215
 

Bed at 60
 

.2 mm layer height for body and tail
 

.08 mm layer height for head
 

100% infill
 

Printed at 20 mm/s

https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498322884&sr=8-1&keywords=wanhao+y+carriage

That is the carriage

this is the go-to plate https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-Champion-Carriage-Duplicator-Monoprice/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500183237&sr=8-1&keywords=y+carriage+plate+i3

do you have a mofset installed?

I had a warped bed with my Duplicator i3. I ended up buying a thicker carriage plate and that got rid of the warping. Now I don't have to spend so much time leveling my print.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Gentle Leader. It wouldn't help you out on the chain, but it will make walking 10 times easier. Plus, you won't have to worry about causing any physical pain as you would with a metal choker.

i've modded mine to try and compensate for it and still getting some issues. It could be that I just suck at leveling.

So far I've bought a thicker aluminum Y carriage plate (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUAMRN7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), done the Z-brace mod (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948) and tried to make sure my X-gantry was level using these http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1138928

I haven't messed with seeing if the Y carriage rods need to be modified though.

I have the same problem and haven't been able to find a solution either. I tried using this, but it didn't work at all.

I sort of feel like you have answered your own question. The fact that you needed shoulder surgery because your Shiba is pulling so hard is not ok. There are a lot of different kinds of harnesses. You may need to experiment a bit. Maybe even go with the Gentle Leader.

That's very similar to what my girls have and people still think it's a muzzle or to watch out. It doesn't help that they bark at everyone.

Try something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Outdoor-Ultrasonic-Bark-Deterrent/dp/B000UZNLGA

They're hit and miss as far as if they actually work. I tried one when I had a neighbor with a crazy dog. It seemed to work for a little while.