Reddit mentions: The best dog grooming supplies

Lots of big dog stuff here! Here's some nice things for the little guys (~25 lbs and under). Many of these items are good for big dogs, too; will note them with a * sign and list them first in each section.

Treats

• Himalayan Dog Cheese Chew*: Long-lasting hard cheese chews; can be microwaved to make "cheesy popcorn" for your dog when it gets small enough to pose a swallowing hazard. Comes in a variety of sizes.
  
  
• Brushless Toothpaste*: Our dog LOVES this stuff, and it keeps his breath smelling awesome. Also helps keep his teeth clean. May want to introduce these into the dog's diet slowly, as some are sensitive to the ingredients but acclimate over time. Comes in an even smaller size for the really tiny dogs, and bigger sizes for the big dogs :)
  
  
• Freeze-dried chicken*: Easy to break into small pieces and sprinkle over your dog's kibble or regular food.
  
  
• Stella & Chewy Meal Mixers*: Great to sprinkle over your dog's regular food for both nutrition and novel taste.
  
  
• Fruitables Minis: Small and low-calorie; great for clicker-training your dog. Comes in a wide variety of flavors.
  
  
• Crazy Dog Bacon Treats*: Also small and very-low calorie; another good clicker-training tool.
  
  Toys
  
  
• KONG Mini Squeaky Tennis Balls*: Great for dogs who like either balls, squeaky toys, or both! My dog had zero interest in balls before these, and they're still the only ones he'll play with. Come in lots of sizes; not good for strong dogs who like to chew up their balls.
  
  
• Dog Tornado*: Easy introductory puzzle toy that's not too big for little dogs. Good for kibble, wet food, and treats. May be too big for dogs under 7 lbs.
  
  
• Dog Tower: Another great introductory puzzle toy suitable for small dogs. Good for kibble and small treats. Not sure how this'll hold up to big dogs, although I think it'd be fine with the gentler ones.
  
  
• JW Treat Pod: Kind of like the Kong, but better suited for gentler, 'licking'-type dogs. Easier to clean out as well, IMO; the small Kongs are so hard to get completely clean even with a brush.
  
  
• Outward Hound Flirt Pole: Fun and easy exercise, the Outward Hound version is more lightweight and suited for small dogs.
  
  Harnesses, Collars, & Safety
  
  
• Pet Stairs*: Large collection of pet stairs. Some on this page are suitable for large dogs as well.
  
  
• Hurtta Active Dog Harness*: High-quality dog harness for dogs that love to run around the outdoors in all kinds of weather and elements. Comes in a variety of sizes; for dogs 7+ lbs.
  
  
• Ruffwear Swamp Cooler*: Comes in XXS, XS, and S. Great for keeping your dog cool in the summer if you don't live in a humid area.
  
  
• Hurtta Pet Overall*: Great for rain and snow; comes in a variety of small sizes. Fit perfectly on our Pom mix and very high quality.
  
  
• Musher's Secret*: Protect your dog's paws in cold weather.
  
  
• Sleepypod Clickit*: Crash-tested car harness, comes in a variety of sizes.
  
  
• Sleepypod Mobile Carrier/Car Seat/Pet Bed: Crash-tested dog bed/car seat/carrier!
  
  
• Lil Pals Step-in Mesh Harness: For the seriously small dogs.
  
  
• Ollydog Marin Collar: Completely waterproof, rustproof, extremely durable, easy to put on...the perfect collar!
  
  Grooming
  
  
• The Stuff Detangler and Conditioner*: Keeps your dog's coat looking clean and glossy; easy to apply and doesn't have a strong odor.
  
  
• Lil Pals Grooming Kit: Miniature grooming tools for your miniature dog at a very affordable price.
  
  Edited to add more+formatting!

Sure, so I can walk you through what I did in the grooming salon whenever a dog with a lot of hair came in (that was shedding).

Ok, first thing you need to do is find a self-serve dog wash. It has to have a high-powered hair dryer like this. The dryer is very important.

Ok, so get your dog tied in the tub securely, and before you do anything else, turn the dryer on and blow out the loose hair. Your results will vary for this, it's especially effective on huskies/malamutes, but it works on my Pyr as well when he's blowing his coat out. You want to be slow with the dryer if your pup has never experienced one before. They are quite loud, and most dogs really hate the air in their face. So, hold the hose behind your back, turn the dryer on, and just wait and see how your dog reacts. If they seem scared by the noise, try to be really calming and reassuring to them. If it seems like they are okay, bring the dryer up, and slowly tilt the nozzle down onto your dog's rump. Move slowly to let them get used to the feel, making sure to gently correct when they are fussing, and reward them when they behave. I've found it helps my dog to tie a towel around his head over his ears, as he's not bothered as much by the feel of the air as he is by the sound.

Anyway, blow from underneath, focusing around the upper leg area especially. A lot of people focus on the back/neck, but in my experience, more hair comes from the belly where it joins with the back legs, and the leg itself. Blow and maybe lightly/gently brush to loosen up the hair and blow it free.

Ok, now you're ready to start the bath. Get your dog wet, and then apply shampoo liberally. You want to use a type of shampoo that is specifically designated for deshedding. I personally love the Furminator shampoo and conditioner. It smells like a pina colada, and more importantly, it works. Really do not be afraid to lather it in there, really work the shampoo in with your fingers, applying more water as you need to. Let the shampoo sit for a few minutes before rinsing.

Next, apply the conditioner. Same thing, really work it in. Let the conditioner sit for as long as you can be patient for, up to 10 minutes. Now, here is the thing that really works wonders: blow dry your dog while the conditioner is still in. I'm not sure if it's the heaviness of the conditioner, but that will really get a lot of hair out.

Rinse the conditioner, it's really important to make sure you rinse really, really well. Make sure to do touch tests. If the hair feels slimy or slick, there's still conditioner in there. Work from the top down and really pay attention to the belly, chest, and armpit areas.

Ok, that's it! Dry your dog off with towels, and the blow dry all the way. You will be surprised at how much hair comes out for the dryer. It really makes a huge difference in how soft/manageable to makes their coats, too.

If you want, you can also brush with a deshedding brush. I would recommend a mix of a slicker brush, deshedding rake, and a Furminator. The slicker brush you'll mostly use to make sure there are no mats or tangles, as the two deshedding brushes will hurt if they go over tangles or mats. So, brush through with the slicker brush, and then go over with the deshedding tools. As you work with them, you'll figure out where each tool works best.

That's what you would get if you came to me when I was still working at PetSmart and ordered a Furminator package. It will not eliminate shedding, but it will help a heck of a lot. I do this for my Pyr every 6 months or so. Regular bathing will also help with shedding. For a Pyr, once a month, or every 6 weeks or so is best, with regular brushing.

Let me know if you have any other questions about bathing/grooming!

Here's my list of "favorites" for my GSDs:

Chuck-It Balls. By far, the most durable balls I've found. They've got some "give", so they seem to enjoy chewing/chasing them more. Remember, once the ball can fit between their back teeth, it's time to upgrade to the larger size.


The Shark Vacuum is a beast. We've tried any number of vacuums over the years, this one falls into the "Not Stupidly Expensive and Totally Worth It" category. Getting a decent Undercoat Rake goes hand-in-hand with a good vacuum. Rake once a week (three times during shedding season), brush 1-3 times a week, you'll give your back a break no matter what vacuum you buy.

In terms of training treats, we really like the Red Barn Chicken and Liver Rolls. After a while, we use them exclusively for scent training, but it's an excellent (and not expensive!) treat for any kind of training. Cube small, you'll get a ton of mileage out of one roll.

Herm Sprenger Dog Collars make great training collars. Not everyone likes the idea of a pinch/prong collar, so if it's not your thing, look elsewhere. However, if you are planning on training with pinch, these are the best, bar none. We use the small size and just add links as our dog grows - it's almost impossible to injure them with the smaller prongs and they tend to respond better. Please learn how to use a pinch before using one of these extensively - they shouldn't be used for restraint and you should probably wait until 8+ months (a number of people I know even wait till 14+ months for any obedience aside from the "necessities") before doing a ton of training anyway.

I'll stay away from food recommendations as it seems to be such a controversial topic. I will say that there are a ton of good sites out there to research - first figuring out whether you're feeding raw, tube, or kibble and then what to do once you decide.

Last - look for a dog club in your area. I personally like the German Shepherd Dog Club of America - Working Dog Association, but there are a number of places like this. I can tell you irrefutably that my dogs' favorite day of the week is training day. Nothing like getting out there with other GSD lovers and doing some tracking/obedience/protection work.

Hope this helps! Good luck :)

I figured since I've never taken my dog to a groomer I may be able to help with this. I'm not a professional groomer at all and the equipment is expensive but I figured that if it's going to cost me $80+ every time I take her to the groomer then the expensive equipment pays for itself in no time. The thing is, it does take forever and I personally recommend having a second person to help you only because I've never done it alone and can't imagine how long it would take if I did. The other thing too is that it will depend on your pup. Have you spent time getting them used to being handled or learning to basically hold still while you groom them? I knew this would be important for me and my pup was exposed to blow dryers, scissors, and the electric razor regularly from the moment I got her at 8 weeks. I have regularly trimmed her nails since she was a pup too so she is very used to being handled. I also taught her that if I'm working on her fur (when she was a young pup I would use a comb and brush regularly for this) she is to hold still. I didn't give her her first real hair cut until she was 8 months but she was already used to the strange sounds and holding still by that point. Before the 8 month mark I did trim her paws and around her eyes though.

If your pup isn't patient with you, its going to be a challenge and may not be worth it. Mine holds still for everything and it still takes my husband and I about 3 hours to get the job done. That said, here is my process.

The first time we groomed her it was awful and it took us almost 6 hours start to finish. This was because her fur had a lot of mats. If you can't get a regular comb through the fur then you aren't going to get the trimmers through either. So taking them to the groomer first is probably a good idea to stick with because they will handle the mats and such for you that first time. After that, you need to keep up with the grooming regularly (mine is groomed every 6 weeks) in order to make the process easier for yourself because the mats won't come back if the fur is trimmed regularly so it won't be an issue. The other issue we had the first time was that we tried to use these and they really didn't work out. They would snag in her fur, they also seemed to kinda push her fur down and out of the way so that it wouldn't get cut. It was just a huge waste of time trying to use them and now we just use this blade directly and it works perfectly.

So basically this is our process. We use a regular folding table because you do not want to do this on the floor. We did it on the floor the first time and it was awful on our backs so you want to be standing. One of us is always holding her so that she will not fall off of the table and we take turns trimming her fur going along with the grain. Be sure to check the trimmers temperature regularly because they can get hot. When they get hot, set them down and use the down time to trim the paws, face, tail, or ears with scissors or comb out any mats that may be in the way (we no longer have a problem with mats since she is groomed regularly). Once the blade is cool again continue trimming the entire body, taking breaks to cool down as needed and repeat the scissor trim every time the clipper needs to cool. We trim everything with the electric clippers except for around the eyes, ears, snout, tail, paw pads, and around the paws. Those extra areas are scissors only for us but you can do whatever you like. After her entire body is trimmed we switch to the shorter blade and trim her sanitary areas. We like the poo area to be extra short in order to avoid the dingleberries. You can also use the short blade to help with trimming around the paw pads. Finally, after everything is cut she gets a bath and blow dry.

It really is a lot of work but we both think that the 2-3 hours we spend doing it is worth it over the cost of a groomer. But it's definitely not for everyone and I also think it depends on the dog. If the dog won't cooperate it's going to make it that much more time consuming and difficult. Here is a list of all of the grooming tools I use:

• Andis Detachable Blade Clipper - For all of the trimming that doesn't use scissors.
  
• 3 3/4 Blade - For most of the body, switch to the short blade that comes with the clippers for the sanitary regions and around paw pads.
  
• Scissors - I use these for everything that needs to be trimmed with scissors. I like that they have the ball tip making them less pokey.
  
• Thinning Shears - Not required but they do help make her snout and tail less choppy looking after they've been cut with regular scissors.
  
• De-matting Comb - This has been a must for me! It is great at getting out those mats.
  
• Comb - I recommend having a regular comb. If this comb can't get through then your clippers won't either.
  
• Blow Dryer - I don't know if it's absolutely required to blow dry after baths but I do and I recommend getting a powerful one.
  
• Shower Hose - Not required but I use this for her in my shower and it has made bath time much easier.
  
  I think that covers everything, I may be forgetting something but that's all I've got for now. If you do decide to do it just make sure you have a decent time block for it since it may take a while. Good luck!
  
  Also, here are some pictures of my pup right after being groomed with the clipper size I've mentioned above.

Congrats!! If you've never had a puppy before, my #1 recommendation is to get a trainer who will come to your house and work with you. They are more for you than for the dog. We did that and while it was really expensive, it was a blessing!

One thing our trainer told us is to let the puppy have access to only a little bit of the house at a time. A crate helps with that, but we didn't want it to feel like punishment and we wanted to be able to let him play around just as a dog in a controlled area. So we bought this playpen and zip tied it to the crate. You can also get linoleum to put underneath the playpen area, but make sure it's all one sheet (otherwise he'll chew on the ends). That also helps clean up potty mistakes!

Speaking of potty, we got a little bell to put on the door. We made him nudge it with his nose or paw (basically picked him up) every time we went out. Then when we finally let him explore more, he knew how to let us know he had to go. Of course, he also used it just as an excuse to go outside, so there's that.

You mentioned you're good to go on crates--did you get one that is life stages and lets you adjust how much room is available? Not a huge deal if not, but if you did, make sure you use it. They don't need a whole lot of room in the crate because they'll just pee on one end and sleep on the other.

For grooming, you don't really need a lot for a puppy (at least in our experience, and our older dog grew up to be a HUGE fluffball). You're more likely to hurt him and turn him off. For our grown up guys, we use a pin brush, a rake brush, a de-matting comb, grooming scissors, and dremmel. We also do your normal ear cleaning solution (we get ours from the vet, so I don't remember the brand offhand, it's the same thing as online) and shampoo. This is what we used when they were puppies. Another essential is puppy wipes for pesky danglers and muddy paws.

For a puppy, though, I really wouldn't use all that stuff. We used a little kong brush to get him used to a brush on his fur, but we didn't even use that until his fur was a little longer (but still too short to use the other brushes). The big thing with grooming a puppy is getting him used to you touching him EVERYWHERE. Stick your fingers in his ears and mouth, rub all over his paws, make him lay down on his back in your lap, etc. Definitely start on nails asap--even if you don't actually trim them, just holding the dremmel up to their nails and getting them used to it helps A LOT. Also the ear cleaner is an essential for golden puppies. Our trainer and vet both told us to drop it in their ears, let them shake their heads, then use q-tips in all the nooks and crannies.

Other essential products are LOTS of toys. You'll figure out real quick what your guy likes. Our first dog was more of a casual chewer, so fabric toys worked, but our second dog LOVES to eat fabric so we had to go with hard toys only. I highly recommend toys by West Paw! As you know, golden puppies will chew on LITERALLY EVERYTHING so you need a backup distractor toy at all times to replace the flavor of the minute. Keep in mind that if you give up trying to stop them chewing on something (say, for example, your computer chair), they will think it's ok to chew on that for the rest of their life. :(

We also got a slow-feeder bowl because our guys gobble down their food like it will disappear if they don't. And if your guy is really annoying with the water bowl (i.e., repeatedly knocking it over), don't worry too much--he'll grow out of it. I recommend keeping a towel under it until he learns all he wants to know about water!

Have fun with your little guy!!!! I'll add anything else I can think of later but feel free to ask if there's anything else you're curious about!

• Dishes: should be stainless steel and washed every time you use them. I feed raw in big, frozen chunks which slow my dog down.
  
• Collars: I don't trust the little 3/4" plastic slide release buckles on most collars. Depending on the material they have a 100-200lb breaking strength and can be brittle in the cold. Fine for a little dog, but my 130lb guy gets a 2" double layer leather with welded steel hardware AKA an agitation collar. This Collar is incredibly well made and a great value. In regards to your opinion on "shock collars" - remote stimulation collars are very effective training tools when used properly. The idea is not to cause pain, it's to use it at a stimulation level that your dog barely notices and train him that that sensation means you want his attention. I use mine at a level that just barely tingles the back of my hand and can recall my dog when he's out of earshot. I can also use it to get his attention when off leash in noisy areas and give him hand signals. I use the vibrate function like one would use a clicker - to mark behavior that I want to encourage. Granted, most people use them totally incorrectly.
  
• Leash: I use a 3/4" by 5' biothane leash. It's strong, grippy and has a O-ring on the handle for tying your dog to a parking meter, etc. Retractable leashes aren't allowed under my local leash laws (though many people still use them). I hate them. You are not 100% in control of your dog unless it is locked and at that point, you might as well use a regular leash.
  
• Toys: Tuffy's Mega Ring last decently well for a soft toy. My dog goes through kong extremes in a week and most "indestructible" toys in a matter of minutes or hours. For me, it's all about cheap toys. If you can train your dog not to swallow bits that he rips off, mine loves big, orange, traffic cones which you can pick up for $2.
  
• Crates: Depends on the dog. Mine can be alone at home for 16 hours and not "investigate" the garbage, bark, or get into any trouble at all. We've trained him to open the door and relieve himself in a corner of our patio if he needs to. He also gets 2 hours of vigorous off-leash exercise every morning and an hour walk in the evening - he's all about a nice quiet day on the couch.
  
• Brushes: Not a fan of the furminator - it cuts hair, not brushes it. The sticky silicone Kong ZoomGroom is great at pulling off loose hair/undercoat.

My guy, also called Rocky, looked pretty similar at 15 weeks. He's still got that long, wavy hair. As for grooming suggestions, brush, brush brush that hair! It mats SUPER easily, and there is constantly dirt and other crud stuck in his hair from playing outside, no matter how short we cut him. We try to make sure we brush our Rocky every day, but never more than 2 days without a good brushing - we have a slicker brush, a wire pin brush, and a metal comb. Spray on detangler has been our friend - they have pet safe stuff at any pet store. We also have a dematting tool. It's also in your best interest to get him used to getting his hair cut as early as possible - whether you're going to try and do it yourself or have it professionally done. We waited a bit too long with our guy, but he tolerates it really well as we make sure we always have treats for him. He really likes being brushed, when we can get him to settle down long enough to sit still for a few minutes. Good luck and have fun!

Brush would really depends on his coat, is he a double coated breed or no? I'm assuming based on the shedding he is double coat. An undercoat rake is a really good brush to have and then a softer top coat brush. I personally don't use a furminator but tons of people swear by them, I use this but there are many options out there.

As for food there are many different types and many different price points.

Purina Pro get a lot of love because of the quality and value.

Hills Science Diet is another really good one on the more expensive side

Same with Orijen, but a little more expensive

We feed mostly Merrick and I love it and so does Cody

Many people who have Costco near them love the Kirkland brand food but I've never tried it.

You want food with high quality ingeedients, no fillers, high protein content and something your dog does well on. If their coat is shiny and they are having good poops then any food in theory could work for you. Not every dog needs to be on grain free, but it's something you can explore if you want.

No matter the food you decide on make sure you introduce it slowly over a few days/week(s) to ensure his tummy doesn't get upset.

There are so many things that I never would've pictured myself buying, that are absolute necessities these days, haha. As you already said, high velocity dryers are amazing! Not only for drying coats, but also for blowing out dead hair. Collapsible bowls are great for long walks and hikes. A decent cover for the backseat or boot of your car is great if a clean car is something you like, haha. I used to laugh at the idea of poop bag dispensers, but dread the thought of leaving without one now. Treat dispensing toys are a biggie; Indie gets all of his meals from his wobbler, treat ball, etc. Pyramid pans are great for making training-sized treats. Detachable shower heads are game changers for bath day. Peroxide is a must-have for those rare emergencies when you need the dog the throw something up ASAP. I know I'm forgetting a handful of items, but there's a few.

A couple of specific items:

I'm absolutely in love with the SleekEZ brush for my double-coated doofuses. It gets out an absolute crazy amount of undercoat in record time.

Boomerang CollarTags. I hate the sound of jingling tags, and love these things. You can fit a ton of information on them, and they have a lifetime guarantee.

Foggy Mountain coats. I don't really have a reason, I just really love these jackets.

That’s a very common thing with shelties actually! The Furminator isn’t actually meant for detangling hair and it’s most successful when used on clean, combed out hair.

I will use something like this to remove small tangles as well as undercoat. You just have to be suuuuuper careful with tools like that because even though it’s not razor sharp, those are still little blades at the top of the tool that can cut both the dog and your hand if you’re trying to force it through a patch of tangled hair. The best tools to use for any dog with any significant amount of hair is a slicker brush and a comb. Those two exact tools are actually things that I use every day. That particular slicker brush is incredible.

Now most groomers should be able to brush out your dog without giving her a haircut. There’s a huge difference between traditional knots (like what a poodle will get) and bunched up undercoat. They can sometimes feel similar but with the right techniques, undercoat tangles come out much easier than traditional tangles. Shelties can still get regular tangles, but it tends to be in very specific areas such as behind the ears so doing a haircut all over is entirely unnecessary. If you want a haircut that’s fine, however shaving double coated dogs is not advised. It can result in the top layer of the coat not growing back as nice. So for dogs such as shelties, I would usually suggest a nice de-shedding treatment and a scissor outline trim. Each dog is different so it’s impossible to say for certainty without feeling your individual pooch, but if your groomer says that your sheltie absolutely has to be shaved, then maybe politely seek a different opinion if that’s not what you want.

Because shelties and collies hate being combed out so much, I pretty much always start with a dryer blowout before I do anything else with them. This video shows a very extreme but good example. Most dogs don’t shed that much hair but you can see the undercoat being loosened up and blown away. This takes care of a lot of those undercoat tangles and we can go from there.

Just be honest with your groomer. We don’t judge dogs for biting. It comes with the territory of the job but a proper heads up is always appreciated.

I own and love this comb and this looks very similar to a fantastic comb one of my coworkers uses.

For slickers, Les Poochs makes some pretty awesome ones - their red one is amazing at dematting! Unfortunately they're also really expensive! If you don't mind spending, the Pro Brush (F/F) would be the way to go. If you're cheap like me, this has very good reviews and should perform acceptably as well. I personally like flexible slickers, so I recommend them.

Truthfully I seldom use undercoat rakes. A high velocity blow dryer (k9 brand is good - don't bathe at home without a blower, it's a good investment) serves the purpose for me both with my own dog and with the dogs at work. Still, if you want an undercoat rake, stay away from things that have blades - Furminators, Furminator knock-offs, Mars Coat Kings, coat king knock offs. There's a time and place for those but I would not personally use them on a spitz of any breed. Something like this will do. I also like shedding combs though I haven't found one without a handle yet.

Additional stuff: you need a good pair of nail clippers, and I also recommend spray like The Stuff or Ice on Ice to keep things feeling nice and fresh.

Go to the vet. Our dog was experiencing similar issues and it was allergic dermatitis that was taken care of by an antibiotic and cortisol. Medicated shampoo helps with the itching too. You can get it without a prescription- this is the brand we use and it works well. You will need to treat the underlying cause though or it will be an ongoing issue. The vet can help if it's something less serious but they can also rule out something more serious like an infection.

It's always a good idea to keep the house clean and keep the dog on a flea/tick preventative. My vet has said an oral preventative like nexgard works better than the topical stuff like frontline and in my experience that's true. Vacuum soft surfaces every other day and wash pet/human bedding on hot every week and that should take care of any fleas unless it's a large infestation which you'd definitely notice.

Thanks! He's such a dream, I love my little Buckley. :)

Good idea with teeth-brushing, routine is the best way to get a puppy settled and behaving well. As for nail-clipping, basically you can just start as soon as his nails are getting too long. How long this will take heavily depends on your dog and his activity - if he spends a lot of time walking/running on hard surfaces like cement, they will stay worn down more and need to be trimmed less often, but if he spends more time on softer surfaces like grass/carpet you'll need to trim them more often. The dewclaw will need to be trimmed more often as it is above the ground, so keep an eye on that. Your best bet for knowing when to trim them is to ask your vet - you'll be seeing your vet frequently in the first few weeks/months anyway for his puppy shots so just ask how his nails are looking and if you should give them a trim. We just clipped my basset's nails for the first time about 2 weeks ago (so 12 weeks old), and he spends a decent amount of time on cement surfaces.

I'd recommend guillotine clippers, as those are easier to use on dog's nails. Nail files are also useful to just smooth out the nail after it gets clipped (since they can splinter a bit after clipping and be extremely scratchy). Just use LOTS of treats, praise, and high-reward toys after he gets his nails clipped so he learns that nail trimming = fun! Most dogs are uncomfortable with nail trims, so he might never love it, but he may at least tolerate it without squirming around which will make it MUCH easier on you.

If nail clipping does end up being problematic, you can get a Dremel nail grinder. They're a little pricier, but effective and they prevent the nail from splintering, which is a problem with clipping.

So, we avoid undercoat rakes and combs on the advice of our breeder (don't want to pull out or cut any of the active undercoat). It took us a while to really get that she was right (at least for our pup), but it is what we've had the best luck with. We use a metal comb to do the line-comb technique as /u/cpersall suggests, and then we finish with just a normal human pin-brush (which he likes quite a bit) for the topcoat. We also brush him at least every other day while we're watching TV of the evening.

You asked about shampoo and such: we've had enormous luck with The Stuff spray in conditioner while we're brushing him out. Makes him look purty (seriously got so many compliments at the herding-dog park parties that we now have half the town using it on Corgis, Aussies, and BCs). We've been using AvoDerm for shampoo (about once every two-three weeks depending on how much mud he's gotten into). Aussies tend to be great self-groomers. We only really give him baths when he's muddy and we don't want it in bed or on the couch. Also he loves bathtime, so sometimes I give him 'baths' sans shampoo on hot days. Drying off with the towel is the Best Game Ever!

My doodle has tight curls as well. I use a slicker brush, a wide tooth comb and a dematting comb for matts that can’t be brushed out. These are the tools I use
Chris Christensen Long Pin Slicker Brush, Large, Coral https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAJQJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jLorDbT0ZDW58

OmniPet Leather Brothers Cocker/Poodle Wooden Handle Comb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E71QEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lMorDb60BC8E5

Safari De-Matting Comb for Dogs, Pet Supplies for Dogs, Dog Grooming, Dog Gifts, Dog Accessories, Dog Supplies, Dog Brushes for Shedding https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ARR2W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HMorDb1BAJBTH

I really love the Chris Christensen slicker brush, it’s pricey but the quality is great. It has long firm pins and the tips are soft, so it won’t hurt your doodle. Also it’s highly recommended for doodle coats. It’s best to get a slicker with long firm pins to really get down to the skin. I then follow up with the wide tooth comb to check for any missed tangles. I prefer to use the wide tooth comb because it’s not harsh on the coat and does not cause hair breakage. I rarely use the dematting tool, because I usually can get matts out with the slicker brush, but for the really tough ones I use it sparingly. You should never use a furminator, it’s harsh on the coat and skin, it can damage it. Also I supplement fish oil in my dog’s diet and I’ve noticed his coat is much more shiny and softer. The fish oil I feed is the from the brand fera pet organics. Also I really think it helps to have your doodle on a grooming schedule such as every 5 to 6 weeks, especially with super tight curls. Also be sure to brush and properly dry when ever your doodle gets wet. Might be a good idea to invest in a high velocity dog blow dryer. There’s some great affordable ones on amazon. Brushing your doodle twice or even three times a week is ideal.

Yeah no problem! Definitely do your research heh lots of info out there for sure about Huskies particularly. As for the dealing with the shedding, tbh the best way to "deal" with it is quite simply to maintain a regular brushing regiment for the dog. Also depending on the time of the year (big season changes mainly) and also weather/temperature conditions, Huskies usually blow their undercoat about twice a year but they do shed regularly! I brush my dog's coat about 2 to 3 times a week and that usually does the trick but like around summer time when they shed the most I brush about 4 times a week because that's how much she sheds Haha! Also husky coats vary from being really short to very fluffy, usually called "wooly" coats, so you have to take that into consideration too like for example my dog has a very lean build with a semi short coat (not as fluffy as the wooly coated Huskies) so when she sheds its usually pieces at a time but if I don't maintain her coat I will often times find tuffs of fur I can literally pull off of her hah. But yea that's the best way I feel to maintain their shedding and make sure to use the proper deshedding brushes/tools since their coats are unique considering they are double coated. I use a tool called the EZ Sleek brush and it works wonders since the brush is designed to lift up the fur from the undercoat and doesn't cut their fur like some brushes do (never shave a Huskies coat unless it's for medical reasons! It damages their overall coat). I recommend that one over the furminator, which is also a great tool to use but I've read mixed reviews and sentiments about it.

I've registered for the Dyson vacuum for this very reason. My parents own it and have 5 long haired cats and hardwood floors, and it has done wonders on hardwood and their furniture. I have friends with cats/dogs who have carpet and also swear by the investment.

The dyson vacuum will take care of all your needs and has so many attachments that do incredibly well. The one I've registered for is so much cheaper on Amazon as well (but it is still spendier than most vacuums): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNUFRQC?ref_=hit_wr_dt_vr_md_pt

For my upholstry (for now since our current vacuum isn't good) I actually bought this little vacuum and it does incredibly well for both my shiba and kai on both my leather and upholstered couches: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EYFQ28?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00

Bathing your shiba during shedding season will help with loosening the hairs and make grooming easier.

I also suggest the following brushes that have done wonders for my dogs and have helped keep our apartment clean during shedding seasons.

Kong Zoom Groom - great for top coat shedding predominantly, but does get undercoat as well, just not as well.

Furminantor - Great to get rid of undercoat or loosening it up. Some people say it damages the top coat, I personally have never noticed, but don't overuse it because I do think it can cause balding, but overbrushing in general can cause balding.

Double teeth Undercoat Rake: MASTER at pulling out undercoat without any damage to top coat.

Deshedding tool: This is also a magical tool to getting rid of the undercoat. I sometimes think it works the best of all the mentioned ones for undercoat at least for Kiba, Taro's fur seems to respond better to the furminantor, while Kiba doesn't release as much from that.

You are SO right about how intelligent this breed is. But they can also be stubborn.. Be diligent with training and stuff for sure. They'll easily get bored so having interesting toys like Kong's that you can stuff worth treats are great. Also invest in some good brushes. No matter what time of year it is he'll be shedding something fierce! They make these grooming tools that look like something medieval but they are amazing for getting up their under coat when they're shedding really bad! Like this one! ... Also: birds love their leftover coat so just leave it out in the yard for them to use for their nests. I did it all the time!


I did also come here just to tell you that your pup is freakin' adorable! Wait until his ears start to perk up... It's hilarious. When mine was still a pup and her ears were still working on standing up they finally did but were so big / heavy they leaned together and she looked like a cone head for weeks... Whenever she ran they would flap together too.. It was hilarious!

Do you have a good dryer? It may depend on the dog but a lhasa/cocker mix sounds like it would have pretty dense hair...you're gonna want to make sure you have a dryer powerful enough to dry through to the skin, and efficient enough to not make the hair all frizzy. Human hair-dryers aren't often strong enough, but you can get pretty decent velocity dryers on amazon. I have this one and it's really good for my Golden, who has very thick fur. It's small enough to work in a bathroom, and it's not even horribly loud.

Get them into training ASAP. They can be a stubborn, headstrong, energetic breed. In the wrong hands, this could be a disastrous combination.

They have razor sharp puppy teeth that they like to put to good use. You will most likely end up with some handsome red scratches on your legs/arms/face/etc. Do not fret, this is normal.

If you did not know already, this breed is prone to hip dysplasia. The occurrence of hip dysplasia is based on mainly genetics, weight, and exercise. Hopefully you got your pup from a good breeder who screens the parents' hips and elbows, as orthopedically sound parents will more likely produce orthopedically sound pups. You can also help reduce the likelihood of HD by keeping your GSD lean and on a healthy food. I recommend Victor Nutra Pro here https://www.chewy.com/victor-select-nutra-pro-active-dog/dp/129281 You can find other good foods on Dog Food Advisor. In addition, here is a chart that illustrates the different body types of dogs: http://www.dummies.com/pets/dogs/how-to-evaluate-your-dogs-weight/ This is just a general guideline of course - the healthy body types will vary slightly by breed. But this is a good starting point. Last point is exercise. Don't put too much stress on their joints at a young age. Ie, don't run them too much, have them jump too much, etc. Keep the exercise low impact at this stage.

I recommend feeding your pup from a Long Wobler, as they can tend to eat fast. You can find them on Amazon here https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ALMW0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496502891&sr=8-1&keywords=kong+wobbler

I recommend brushing out their fur with a rake and Kong Zoom Groom. You can also find them on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0062Z0RPA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496502790&sr=8-3&keywords=dog+rake+brush and https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AR19Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496502846&sr=8-1&keywords=zoom+groom&dpPl=1&dpID=51QkRAxrf0L&ref=plSrch

I would highly recommend crate training. It's one of the best things you could do for your dog. I like the Midwest 48" crate here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QFWCLY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496503032&sr=8-1&keywords=midwest%2Bicrate%2Bfolding%2Bmetal%2Bdog%2Bcrate&th=1&psc=1

Let me know if you have any questions!

We just took her to the vet Sunday so I didn't get to order it until Monday morning, but it shipped very quickly. Here are the links to what I ordered.

Shampoo

Goodwinol


Nu-stock


I would have done this last night, but I replied to you on my phone. The vet said apply twice a day to spots until healed. The Nu-Stock was of my own choice and I'm sure it's the same application, but I haven't read the directions yet. Regardless, it seems like a product I want to have on hand for just about anything....human or animal, so I figured why not? As far as the shampoo goes, I just looked around on Amazon and read reviews. I'm not expecting that to be the cure, I'm just hoping that helps relieve the itching until the ointment can kick in. I was initially going to order something else, but this was more shampoo for my dollar.....which is always best.

Now that I think about it, she does it sometimes. I've always thought she was trying really hard not to fall asleep when she does it.

I brush her about once a week. She hates the brush with a fiery passion though so it usually ends up with me chasing her around with it. This is the one I use. I found that she has really light hairs and they come out really easily so that brush is great because it doesn't scratch her and also picks up loose hair with static since it's rubber. She keeps really good care of her fur though so the brushing once a week is pretty sufficient.

I also give her a trim once in awhile when I notice that her hair is blocking her eyes (she tends to run into walls then but I've read that hair in front of the eyes can be helpful for albinos since they're more sensitive to light. maybe something particular to the rabbit then). She also gets hay stuck in her face fluff so I try to trim it down a bit. If you do this, be very careful of trimming the whiskers by accident. They'll grow back but they're important for a rabbits balance. I also trim down her butt fluff once she starts catching things (hay and stuff) in it.

You're in for a joyride once his heavy shed starts. :) I recommend investing in lots and lots of lint rollers. Especially if you have any black clothing. Cricket goes through a heavy shed once every three months (probably with the seasonal change) and a not as heavy shed every month. During any of her sheds but especially the heavy ones, you can basically see clouds of fluff drifting everywhere in my apartment. :)

Congrats on your bun though. Lots of binky's and love coming your way!

Edit: A quick warning on the brush thing. I've found that furminators and any metal brushes tend to pull out more hair than anything else. It might just be particular to my rabbit but be careful nonetheless!

Hey there, I know exactly what you're dealing with. I Love pit bulls and had one for 13 years. Now my dog was very very chill when it came to bath time and getting his nails trimmed. But I also had him since he was 4 weeks old and I used to mess with him all the time while we would lay together ( put fingers in his mouth, ears, play with his toes, etc. ) which i think helps. Anyways my roommate has a blue and our dogs lived together and she HATED getting her nails trimmed.. mind you shes about 65 lbs with a massive head. Built like a tank and super strong. We would have hold her down unfortunately as best as we could. Literally my roommate would hold her with all his strength and I would take one of those pet grooming dremel kits (I got on amazon) and just go for it. Those dremels worked the best in my experience, really easy and fast. Before we had the dremel and just clippers it was almost impossible to trim her nails. I know it sucks to have to hold the dog down but maybe that dremel would help you. Also we would leave it out for her too, to help her get used to it. even when she would lay in her bed we would set it next to her.

this is the dremel I use.
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8-Volt-Pet-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406066521&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+dremel

Good luck!

Furminators really are great! On the right coat type. Depending on the coat an undercoat rake may work better. This one by Oster is AMAZING http://www.amazon.com/Oster-Professional-Grooming-Undercoat-Coarse/dp/B00061MWJ0. Rubber curry brushes, like Zoom Groom by Kong, are great for getting the top coat on both double coated and smooth coated dogs. Don't forget a slicker brush and steel comb (for long/double coats)! I have a cavalier and you wouldn't believe the amount he sheds. I use a combination of all these tools for the best results. I'm also a groomer, so I'm a little anal with it.

This definitely looks like fungal acne to me aka Pityrosporum (Malassezia) Folliculitis - especially since you said wearing a hat and sweating exacerbates it and that it's spreading. Check out this article. It's super informative.

I've found great success with these wipes for some bumps on my forehead that I figured were fungal. The wipes are for pets but oh well, they have active ingredients that will eliminate the excessive fungal growth and are easy to use (I use 2x per day and on workout days before and after I sweat). Make sure to study the article to see if any of the products in your current routine feed the fungus!

WOW! so much great info! exactly what I was looking for! So you would recommend the DIY self service > PetSmart Furminator package?

Thanks for getting me the info while on mobile, i looked at furminator brush but thought that cant be the only thing i need, and couldn't find a specific grooming source this was super helpful. I will look into both DIY & Furminator.

Just to make sure i got the DIY procedure down:

1. Find self service dog wash with high power dryer ( i found a "Petco- unleashed" nearby ~$10/visit)
   
   
2. Buy Furminator brand Shampoo/Conditioner ( ~$10 each)
   
   
3. Buy Oster undercoat rake (~$16 bucks online) + bring my own regular brush...
   
   
4. Bathing-
   
   

• Wash dogs down first, get completely drenched
  
• apply shampoo (let sit in for ~5 min while rubbing?), wash dog again
  
• apply Conditioner to entire coat, then wash out again?
  
• Then begin drying with high powered dryer (~1hour?).
  
• Once completely dry i can then start to use brushes, correct?
  
• start with regular detangling brush, then use Oster brush.
  
• for my Pyr her hair seems to be heavily concentrated on her hind legs and chest. Any recommendations for these areas?
  
• Continue HighPowered drying while brushing? or once dry no need anymore?
  
  Thanks for the help! seems like DIY could cost me about ~$50-60. I just thought it would cost more for the tools they had in this grooming pyranees video

For getting rid of molded clothes, and so many other super useful things, I recommend owning a dremel, or other rotary tool.

You don't need a fancy one. I've got 3 dremel tools, of varying degrees of torque and power. One is identical to this one - only without the pet grooming branding. It's still a dremel - it'll still work.

Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jF4xDb8CJPTXW
$30


I did find this guy for a super cheap price -
WEN 23006 Two-Speed Cordless Rotary Tool Kit with 10-Piece Accessory Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MSL9PW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4C4xDb9MG46FY
$12

Can't vouch for it being any good, given its price, but it should be compatible with the dremel rotary bits, and for a starter tool, and just working on dolls, it should be fine.

Whatever rotary you get, you'll need a few things to go with it. I recommend one or both of these -

Sanding drums
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BK1VRH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yJ4xDb738D61Y

Abrasive buffing wheels
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075C72PGK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NH4xDbCZ6DM5C

The buffing wheels are pretty good a removing tiny molded clothing details without eating up the plastic a lot.

If you ever do anything with apoxie-sculpt, the dremel can come in handy with grinding down things after its cured.

OH - and sand paper. Buy sand paper.

I recommend getting some 120 grit, 220 grit, and some 400 grit. You work your way from the lower, rougher paper, up to 400 to get a smooth finish. When you get up to 400, make sure you sand in circular motions to avoid leaving gouges in the plastic.

Happy for you and the dog!

First, buy one of these:
http://www.petco.com/product/100491/KONG-Zoom-Groom-Brush.aspx (Amazon is cheaper)
and one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Oster-Professional-Grooming-Undercoat-Coarse/dp/B00061MWJ0
These will help with the shedding. It's a lot. Adding salmon oil to her food can also help (talk to a vet first). And yes, she will certainly be able to learn a new name! It took my guy about a day. Your mileage may vary.

Finally, shameless plugs for r/germanshepherds and r/GermanShepherd. Lots of helpful people. Best of luck!

1. kiss pug's forehead just above the nose often, especially while cupping their face in your palm. getting them used to you loving on them around their sensitive smooshes makes the rest easier.
   
   
2. for routine care - using a damp paper towel, wipe out nose folds and give forehead kisses. wipe again with a dry paper towel to remove moisture.
   
   
3. for care when they are rubbing their face, it is stinky, or periodic routine care - wipe with an antibacterial/antifungal wipe like these: https://smile.amazon.com/Pet-MD-Chlorhexidine-Wipes-Ketoconazole/dp/B0180A1J38/

You're welcome! And the shedding is definitely going to be a part of your life with a corgi. That said, and this is very subjective, but I think it's both manageable and worth it! You also kind of get used to it, haha.

If you keep up with vacuuming and brushing, it will go a long way in keeping the fur in check. Also, look into adding fish oil and/or coconut oil to his meals. They're both great supplements to include and can improve a dog's skin and coat. Another tool that we use to help control shedding is a high-velocity blow dryer (example). It's basically a hair dryer on crack. We use it after baths to dry him off quickly and because it's so powerful, it blows loose fur right out.

Grooming: I've tried every brush out there, and the most effective on our aussie is a grooming rake and a slicker brush. We use the grooming rake for de-shedding on his back and belly, and the slicker brush on his ears, mane, pants, feathers, and tail to get out knots because he won't tolerate the rake on that thicker fur. Also, get a good grooming spray, and I suggest investing in a good professional groomer (that knows not to shave a double coat) every 4-5 months depending on if your dog gets matted.

Walking: I like the wonder walker, easy walk is also good.

Toys: Puzzle toys! Ditch the food bowl entirely, aussies need a job to do. My dog loves any ball he can push with his nose that dispenses treats.

We use Merrick grain free pork and sweet potato. I am not sure if it's available outside of Texas though. We had good luck with Castor and Pollux Organix grain free, but we wanted to find something similar that used local ingredients. One thing to note is that we tried various formulas of Merrick until we found the one that produced the most solid stool. You might be able to find another Blue Buffalo formula that produces firmer stool.

We use Kong's Zoom Groom brush. It's great both for bath time and for regular brushing. It's gotten pretty hot here in Texas, so I take the hounds out to the courtyard in our apartment complex and brush them there. This brush gets handfuls of hair out of them!

On the topic of brushes, the Furminator is absolutely awesome, but for longer haired Husky's I'd recommend the GoPets Comb.

Especially good if you've got one that gets mats every shedding season, for obvious reasons. The comb tends to cut through mats instead of "pulling" them out like a rake does, then the Furminator is good for getting the loose stuff off.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OIOB90E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would recommend to anyone with a long haired/teddy bear husky. Short hairs don't need it nearly as much (I have one long and one short haired), and a rake tends to work better for them.

I usually use Chris Christensen White on White and it does a good job of making my dogs look nice for the shows. I also heard really great things about 1st in Line, these products were actually developed by a Samoyed owner/breeder, so I want to try it after I'm done with my current gallon of White on White :P One of my friends accidentally stained her Samoyed's coat with pure Aloe Vera extract (stains it pink) and she tried so many different products to get it out and only 1st in Line did the trick.

For a cheaper, easier available alternative you can try Espree Classic Care Bright White, which is sold at Petco. I use it on my dogs when I just want to wash them in-between shows.

I use a Mars Coat King on my Pyr; this Oster undercoat rake is also good, it just doesn't have replaceable blades like the Coat King does. Undercoat rakes work really well to get out that undercoat while they're blowing it, without cutting the long top guard hair. I don't care for Furminators, which tend to have tines which are far too short to really get into a Pyrenees undercoat, and will instead pull and break the guard hair. You need to comb the rake with the direction of the coat, and it will help tremendously. It's what my mobile groomer guy uses on mine, and I keep one on hand to run through her coat about mid-way between grooming sessions.

Pin/Slicker brushes are sometimes not terribly effective on Pyr coats - some dogs have a super thick undercoat, and for those cases, a greyhound comb is usually a little better for a weekly brush session.

We have this Chris Christensen brush for brushing out. I got it for like $15 less and they occasionally pop up as warehouse deals on Amazon. I was told to not cheap out on the slicker because some of the less quality ones are hard on the skin, but I have only used this one so I can't comment.

This Madan pin brush for brushing while blow-drying (regular size, medium cushion). I liked it because of the quality pins with beveled ends (so no poking the skin). And also the choice of colors.

We also have a comb - this is the one I bought because of the rotating teeth and rounded ends. Used to check for mats/remove mats after brushing.

Right now it's been very wet and I am thankful I invested because my walker just towels her off and she had a few leg mats that I had to pick through. With a conditioning spray and gentle brushing I was able to remove them with minimal pain (and lots of bribes).

I don't think you'll need to do a ton of brushing on the puppy coat, though it's great to get them used to it, especially up standing on a table. My pup's is pretty tangle-free unless she gets very wet and isn't dried and brushed properly. If she's not wiggly, it takes maybe 15 minutes to do everything.

Hi, CaptainAre! Quality grooming tools make all the difference. I personally took other peoples' advice and use a FURminator during shedding season. It works great and gets the job done relatively quickly, is very efficient, and leaves my Husky with a soft top coat. Other people also swear by the Oster Rake, but I have yet to try it. I've owned a shedding blade in the past and used to use it on my other dogs, however I've noticed that while it might work on other breeds with thinner coats, it's not necessarily the best tool to use on a Husky. Will it work? Yes, but it's the equivalent to hammering a nail in with a wrench. Quality grooming tools are worth their weight in gold, especially with a Husky's thick undercoat.

Also, from my understanding, all brushes/blades/rakes were designed to be used along the grain of the fur and not against it. The best comparison I could think of would be shaving a beard. Sure, you could get a closer shave if you go against the hairs but it comes at the price of mild discomfort. Same thing goes for a dog's coat.

Another invaluable tool for daily maintenance and upkeep of her coat would be a decent Slicker Brush. Hope this helps!

For the real fine floof, use a slicker brush like this

If you want to get the undercoat out, use a deshedding tool like this one

Brush first with the slicker brush and get all the tangles out before you use the deshedding tool. You may also need a comb to get some of the finer hair straight before going with the deshedding tool. If you really want to manage the hair, make sure you are washing regularly, every 4-6 weeks or so and using a shampoo and conditioner designed to reduce shedding. I really like the Furminator shampoo and conditioner. It helps if you are able to use a high powered dryer to dry them, that will take out so much hair you won't believe it. It will make it a lot more manageable to brush in between baths. If you don't have access to one I recommend you take your dog to a professional groomer.

Source: Worked in a grooming salon for a year

YES it's called a miracle brush, buy this, it will make your life better.

Also, while you're at it, invest in a greyhound comb. It has two sides. Use the wide toothed side to find matts, which you shave out with a clipper with a #10 blade. The fine toothed side will be used to check your work. DO NOT USE THIS TO DEMATT. Also, DON'T USE SCISSORS TO DEMATT. (I yelled this, I actually yelled this).

Next, for double coated dogs, i use a Furminator and a Zoom Groom. Furminator is a blade. Don't do the same area for too long, your dog will get skin irritation. It gets out the undercoat. The zoom groom is good for top coat, and the dogs love how it feels.

Hope some of this helps.

I would also look in to mobil groomers to come to your house. You may have to drop $100, but it'll be worth it. Promise. We professionals know best.

Cinberlin is not the monopoly, she is actually very selective about who she sells to and is a reputable breeder/shower, but her prices were high as well, but I respect her because she explained to me the care and effort she puts in, and informed me of the backward practices of the monopoly person as if they're dogs are always pregnant, basically a backyard puppymill. Basically his pricing is 1.8-2.2k without papers, 5-6k with limited papers, 10-15k fine if you breed without their consent. Obviously the no papers are not registered with the AKC.

Thanks for the info on the standards, I read up on the corgi standards and mine seems to be in good shape, but that's just me measuring.

So for whitening shampoo i use this, https://smile.amazon.com/Chris-Christensen-White-Shampoo-fl-oz/dp/B000NV87FG?sa-no-redirect=1, I have no idea how much help it does because I only bathe him every month or every other.

What is the frequency I should bathe him to get his coat cleaned and ready?

Just to add my two cents, I've found the Furminator removes a lot of fuzz but it's uncomfortable for the pup and may remove too much of their undercoat.

Ideally, you want something that removes loose clumps and de-tangles knots. The dogs shed plenty on their own, your brushing should just keep their coats clean and silky.

My aussies' favorite brush is this Safari undercoat rake. It's way cheaper than the $50 Furminator, removes a ton of fuzz, and it's much easier to brush with. The teeth don't poke or tug so my guys love it, they'll even roll over and ask for extra brushies, something they've never done with wire-toothed or Furminator-style brushes.

Hey, I've got a Great Dane who has really short hair. For him we us a zoom groom which is a kinda medium-soft rubber brush. It works pretty well for him, and I would imagine it wouldn't be too painful for any dog. Ours has lasted a pretty long time too (over 2 years) so they're also pretty durable.

Oh my god I love him!!! Also side note, I’m a dog groomer. Please consider investing in the Chris Christensen slicker brush to keep his coat from getting matted. This one is safe and good to brush all the way through so you could run a comb through it and see the skin. I can’t tell you how many matted doodle pups that brush has worked magic on! Here’s a link : Chris Christensen Long Pin Slicker Brush, Large, Coral https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAJQJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hQG4DbVQG2J86

A lot. And around once or twice a year they'll shed more fur than you'd think was possible for a dog that size.

Of course, if you get in the habit of giving them a good brushing twice a week that helps TONS. During heavy shedding it's really helpful to pay a groomer to bathe them and blow out the loose fur.

If you have a yard, and don't mine bathing (loosens up the shedding fur, and you get a nice clean doggie) and spending a half hour using a high speed blower it's not hard to do yourself. Fur will end up EVERYWHERE though...kinda nice to pay a groomer just so they have to deal with the cleanup.

Edit: Here's a youtube video showing how one of those dryers blows the loose fur off - you can see why it's nicest to do that outside.

This is what I get for my dog: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037Z6VK8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My pup has grass allergies pretty badly, so every time she goes outside, she starts with the itching. This is actually an antiparasitic & antiseborrheic, but it helps my pup. Coal Tar shampoos is what the vets use for mites/mange and such (I was a kennel tech at a couple of vet hospitals years ago).

For $7/bottle, it might be worth a shot for you.

Hope the pup gets to feeling better soon!

Furminator is okay, but an undercoat rake like this is what a groomer would use, and will do much better to not damage the topcoat. I use one on my aussie and he loves it.

Heres the dryer I have: Go Pet Club Pet Grooming Hair Dryer for Dogs and Cats https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DX24SD2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3-v1Cb01YTWCW

Thanks for all the links!! These will be super helpful on our next brushing. ❤

I highly recommend The Stuff after bathing and conditioning! Its a finishing spray that leaves the coat very light and in most cases will even keep your dog feeling cleaner longer. You can even use it in between baths when you brush to keep his/her coat feeling nice and soft.

Another great thing about it is that you never need much and a bottle will last you months for a little yorkie :)

Thanks Vegas.. another friend recommended that and you're right it definitely does help! I've also got one of these that helps a lot too:

Coastal Evolution W6110 Grooming Undercoat Rake with Rotating Teeth, Double Row https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002DIRYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o-viyb839XKYG

I have a dog who’s super prone to UTIs. For it’s a delightful combination of having posterior bladder displacement (her bladder sits in the wrong spot and can’t fully expand), obsessive drinking behaviors and a hooded vulva that was hiding some weird skin infection to boot. I would highly, highly recommend having your vet take a second look at her anatomical structure to make sure she doesn’t have a recessed vulva and potentially doing a more comprehensive culture from that area. In the meantime you can help things along by using wipes to keep the area clean (I like these guys, use them morning and night).

I have this one. It's not exactly top of the line, but it's a pretty good value for the price. I got it last summer, and It's worked well for my GSDs.

SimpleSkincareScience recommends medicated pet wipes as a fungal acne treatment; they'd be easy to pack with you.

The SSS fungal acne guide has some great product recs; I'd try Simple Micellar Water decanted into a travel spray bottle for your cleanser and Cerave Baby Cream as your moisturizer. Both are fungal acne safe, cheap and easy to find; so minimal investment if they don't work out long term.

I did more research and I think my dog has canine seborrhea. I purchased a shampoo on amazon that targets this skin condition. I'm definitely going to wash my baby more often like you recommended. Thanks a lot! :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037Z6VK8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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We have the orange furminator for long hair. It does ok, but it pulls at the hair.

This is cheaper and does an amazingly better job raking the undercoat: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZ7UOCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_O-YbBb6MTAZ3G

Also, I promise I'm not a paid spokesman, you can check my history. These supplements have really helped the softness of our girls fur, and shes starting to itch less on her paws/wrist area: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZXX93TG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NbZbBbHV898X5

I'm on mobile. If these are the wrong Amazon links, let me know and I'll change them when I get to my computer. I dont need referral links, just trying to help other wiggle owners.

If anyone has any better experience with supplements (fish oil/omega3/whatever) let me know. I'm open to try new stuff!

Coat King and a nice metal dog comb works great. Oster brand makes a good coat rake sold on amazon for a decent price https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061MWJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GNLBDbY3WNHMG
The furminator tends to rip healthy hair out.

I have a short haired dog with a single coat, so not the same type of coat as yours at all. The furminator did very little to pick up hair when I brushed him. His hair kinda glided right through it.

I bought this comb on a whim and the first time I used it on him I took off what looked like a chihuahua worth of hair. Perhaps the furminator just isn't the right comb.

I would definitely speak to a knowledgeable groomer. They will have a better answer than our best guesses.

This may sound silly, but this $64 Chris Christensen brush
has been a godsend. It smooths out the mattes so nicely and quickly, and the brush itself feels very sturdy. I feel like it’s an investment that we have made for optimal brushing.

"The Stuff" is a great de-tangler, but I've also had good success with PetHead brand stuff that should be available at any Petco/Petsmart. I use this slicker and any metal "Greyhound" style comb will work.

Great post.

I'd like to add-One of my absolute most essential tools for my sam - a rake, specifically one with very wide teeth. This is the one I've got: Coastal Pet - Safari Long Tooth Undercoat Dog Rake

Once they start to blow their coat, it's absolutely essential (helps gently pull all of the loose fur off). I had a smaller one for when he was a pup and it worked great!

Good answer! My most helpful item on my list is this

My puppy's nails grow super fast and I'm too terrified to clip them myself but he doesn't trust anyone other than me with his paws so the groomer and vet always get his quick and make him bleed and cry because he squirms so much. That dremmel tool would let me just file them down super quickly and painlessly. Win for both of us!

Please don't use a furminator deshedding tool, it's a blade on a handle. It cuts the guard hairs and does not remove the undercoat very well. It doesn't get down to the skin. I have two huskies, best thing is an undercoat rake. Double row of spinning pins is best ime, like this. Here is a comparison pic of a Furminator vs undercoat rake. You can see the guard hairs the furminator cut out. I brush twice a week, and using a conditioning spray (I use Stazko) helps. I brush every other day during coat blowing. Bathe as needed, about every 2 months or so or after dirty events. Dry with a high velocity dryer like the K9 II to dry quickly and blow out loose undercoat. And yes, dog fur is a condiment!

Just the obvious, even it and wait until it grows back.

Regarding the sheltie summer trim question, you aren't really supposed to trim their coats, the hair protects them from overheating and getting sunburns, is my understanding.

I have used undercoat rakes with great success on my shelties though, have you tried those?

I have used this one on Amazon. I use it after I bathe my dogs, once their coat is dry. The warm water is supposed to loosen the undercoat, so the undercoat rake will take more out. One year I swear I had enough fur to make another dog, and my female with the thickest coat looked like she lost 10 pounds after I finished. Of course it took an hour.

> she seemingly sheds ALL the time.

This is normal and healthy, unfortunately. Nothing will stop her from shedding.

> I find her fur even when I'm outside of my apartment on my phone screen, on my laptop, in my mouth, in my eyes, on my clothing, etc.

> I found one of her hairs in the microwave (!?).

Same here. Mine is a breed known to shed less for a long haired cat, but still.

> within a day or two of changing linens, her fur is all over my covers

I changed my bedding to match my (old) cat's colors. At least it made me feel better... And also covering the linen with blankets during the day helps.

It's most likely that you are allergic to specific proteins in her saliva, rather than her fur floating around (although the fur does contain the same proteins, because cats groom with their tongue, so getting rid of the floating fur should make things better.)

I personally find furminators not very effective. They do get rid of good amount of fur, but not all the fur they get is the dead fur you wanted to get out, I think. The blade cuts off too much fur that hasn't fallen off yet, thinning out the coat in a way that I didn't want to. I have had a much better result with grooming rakes without any sharp edges.

I'm allergic to my cat, too. In my experience, daily vacuuming is a must if you want to manage the shedding. Thorough brushing at least every other day (more like, daily harvest with a rake, actually) and daily vacuuming kept my place relatively free of cat shedding, although I'm slacking off these days and the hardwood floor is turning into a carpet.

Another thing you want to do is to do an allergy testing. It turned out that I wasn't only allergic to my cat but also to common household molds and dust mites. So when I thought I was getting allergic to my cat, I was also reacting to those. Taking care of them made my symptoms better, I think. My doctor also gave me some nasal corticosteroid spray which did wonders. I was on it for about 4~5 months, I think. I haven't needed it since then.

Also, you can observe what triggers severe allergy reactions and try to tackle them first. It depends on the person and also on the cat; there had been some cats that could give me crazy amount of hives by just licking my hand once, and I actually had one cat that I could bury my face on her belly and turn out fine. With my current cat, I found out that touching my face instantly made me miserable. And the tissue boxes... always discard the first one you pop, every time you use them, because it's guaranteed that the ones exposed have some cat furs on it already.

I also got a knock off Roomba (best purchase EVER) and a couple of air purifiers with True HEPA filters. I'm not sure if the latter is helping because I've never been without them while having a cat, but the filters do get filthy so I guess they are doing something!

A good trick is to purchase a high velocity dryer, it's what groomers use to dry dogs off. It's very effective at knocking lots of the loose hair off, like in this video. Another thing that works well is a good bath every month, which couples well with the high velocity dryer! Furminator also make a shampoo and conditioner combo that's reasonably effective in loosening up a dogs coat for brushing with their brush.

I wouldn't recommend using the Furminator brush every day extensively however, as it can easily cause skin irritation because of how the brush works. Use a slicker brush or a ZoomGroom for daily brushing. I can really recommend the ZoomGroom, as shown in this video, works really well as a daily brushing tool for deshedding. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask. I don't personally own a German Shepherd (yet!!), but I have several years of experience working as a professional dog bather.

Okay, thank you! I'll keep that in mind. I have an undercoat rake (the kind that has straight pins, not curved - similar to this one) but I've heard mixed suggestions on how often to use it. Is once per week about right?

I also way overspent on a Chris Christensen buttercomb lol, the one with a fine and a coarse side. I almost certainly could have just gotten a cheaper Andis one but here we are. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I find that a fur rake works better and is cheaper, I've used them on Golden Retrievers, Labrador Retrievers and Huskies to great success.

I have had great success with this shampoo to relieve itching/scratching:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037Z6VK8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

He gets a shampoo at least once a week. I try to leave the shampoo on at least ten minutes before rinsing it off.

I like the sleekez....seems to keep it nice and knot free
SleekEZ Original Deshedding Grooming Tool (5 inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VC8DQX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jfcECbPP89RAE

I'm not a fan of furminators. I find they end up cutting the fur more than anything.

As recommended, give them a good bath and blow dry. That will loosen up most of it. I find my trusty comb (like this one ) works very well on my landlords lab, as well as a zoom groom.

This brush: Miracle Coat Slicker Dog Brush, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QFRY76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AhnHDb03FP7BJ

Saves me sooo much time dematting, it just glides through way easier. If the coat is very long then

This brush: Chris Christensen Long Pin Slicker Brush, Large, Coral https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAJQJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zwnHDbP5YZG89

This one is a dream, pricey but will save lots of time, there is a learning curve with this one though so don't be discouraged if it's a bit awkward at first. Pair each one with a metal grey hound comb.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PUdq_UhMQAQ - very informative video on brushing

Furbuster comb below is the best! It really captures the silky fine bunny hair that otherwise slides rigth though due to the rubberized insert.

https://www.amazon.com/Small-Pet-Select-Hair-Buster/dp/B06ZZXF81G

if you need a smaller one also for the face and feet, you can improvise. But this flea comb https://www.amazon.com/SAFARI-Flea-Double-Teeth-Prevention/dp/B0002RJMAK/ref=lp_17462719011_1_1?srs=17462719011&ie=UTF8&qid=1539195229&sr=8-1 and just insert/overlap a wider rubber band between the teeth like the comb above.

Best slicker brush I have found on the market. It works great for long coated dogs and imo a must have for poodles and doodles. https://www.amazon.com/Chris-Christensen-Slicker-Brush-Large/dp/B00KAJQJ74

When my wooly Mally is blowing her coat, it is a multi-step process. Step one is using a slicker brush like /u/blounsbury linked - that helps get rid of most of the loose fur. I then move on to a rake style undercoat brush, often in conjunction with a de-matting rake. That will get the bulk of the undercoat out. The second to last step is using a metal comb to make sure all of the undercoat "chunks" are out. The final step is going over with the slicker brush for the final time.

Understand that this is a multi-day event. While the sound of "blowing the coat" sounds like something that should just suddenly happen, it takes place over a week or so. I measure my Mally's fur output in cats. Day one is usually one cat-sized lump of fur. Day two is like three. By day 3 and 4, we're usually down to a cat a day.

My Shiba uses one brush for his entire grooming process when he's blowing his coat - The Furminator. It does zip for a wooly Malamute (even the long-haired version does nothing).

I feel your pain. Nail trimming can be a total nightmare (for you and your dog). If you're using actual clippers, make sure they are very sharp (dull blades will squeeze the nail, causing a lot of pain and sometimes cracking the nail). Dremel trimmers are definitely something worth looking into too. But even with the best tools, it can be a huge chore. I had a dog who passed away a few months ago who would just lay there and let you trim his nails. Sometimes he'd actually fall asleep while you did it. He was a godsend.

If you get one and it grows to look this this: https://imgur.com/a/lDzIvUj

Then this is your friend: https://www.amazon.com/Oster-18-Tooth-Coarse-Shedding-Brush/dp/B00061MWJ0

Light brush (5-10 mins) a night keeps on top of everything.

We know a few others and they all seem to be very social animals - love family and other dogs.

Absolutely! Here is the rake, slicker, and dematting comb. The dematting comb works well, but I do have more success using the rake and slicker more frequently, instead of having to resort to the dematting comb if I slack off on the brushing for too long.

I brush all three of my cats every day and it really helps with shedding and the cats love it.

This works really well on short hair cats:

https://www.amazon.com/Coastal-Pet-Undercoat-Designed-Undercoats/dp/B0083TSC64?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3

You could try switching to a fish flavored food. However, Earthbath makes a few deodorizing sprays that work as leave in conditioners. Our groomers use The Stuff its concentrated so it lasts forever. Smells amazing and definitely helps keep flakes away!

I use Chris Christensen's White on White. It's fantastic. It's a toner/shampoo and it leaves him smelling good and helps erase brassy tones.

They really don't need to be cut. All that fur is important to them, especially during the summer because of insects and sunburn. You just need to spend some time cleaning out the undercoat. You want to use something like a 'undercoat grooming' rake. This will take quite a bit of time. After this you'll want to do just go back over with a slicker brush/or comb.

If your dog has mats (mine get mats around flanks) then you'll want to apply some dematting spray and then use a dematting comb.

This will help a lot in keeping your derglet cool.

Trimming around flanks, ears, etc is fine. I get my dogs butt flanks trimmed a lot because poop.

They make one specifically for dogs
Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sRJVzbV6SE0PA


But I use my pedicure one and it works great on my dog
Amopé Pedi Perfect Electronic Foot File, Extra Coarse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013AX6U6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yQJVzb7T1EP9F

Please please please consider an alternative. Declawing is very painful to an animal and oftentimes changes their behavior for the worse after it has been done (no surprises really, as declawing is not just removing the nails, it is removing the bone as well. think of it like removing your finger up to the second knuckle). How about try something less intrusive/costly first? There are booties you could purchase: https://www.amazon.com/QUMY-Waterproof-Reflective-Velcro-Anti-Slip/dp/B01LYITJ4S/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3OW12TD5FRSDR&keywords=dog+booties+for+hardwood+floors&qid=1569187744&s=gateway&sprefix=dog+booties%2Caps%2C263&sr=8-4
Or you could file your doggie's nails down with a dremel, so they aren't nearly as sharp (they make pet specific ones for those too): https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sxin_1_osp54-3d58a629_cov?ascsubtag=3d58a629-5407-463d-bdc4-ae4dbba21da4&creativeASIN=B003TU0XG4&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.3d58a629-5407-463d-bdc4-ae4dbba21da4&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=dremel+dog&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B003TU0XG4&pd_rd_r=a5f5dc22-c306-4952-875e-2a306ba459e2&pd_rd_w=bRrY7&pd_rd_wg=BltYA&pf_rd_p=53eff971-6e12-4016-9864-b6dfd929b2b3&pf_rd_r=SRCDDXV0AR8EDXP32SA5&qid=1569187884&s=gateway&tag=42987st350sr-20
I use the dremel on my boy, and he doesn't mind it at all compared to the nail clipper! Just had to entice him with enough cheese when introducing it lol.

If I could recommend an excellent flea comb, this one is fantastic. We have three of them at our house. It’s double rowed, so the fleas are usually caught inside the brush so at that point you just dunk the entire brush in warm soapy water and they’ll die pretty much instantaneously. Now the one exception is if your dog is long haired, I suppose it would depend on what type of fur they have (coarse, thick, etc) but because the teeth of the comb are so close together, it catches knots very easily. But for short haired pets I can’t recommend it enough. I’ve also found the pill Fastcaps (or Capstar which is a more expensive version, virtually the same thing though) is great if it’s really bad. 30 minutes after your pet swallows the pill, it’ll kill any fleas on them. You can tell it’s working because they bite down as they’re dying, so your dog might start acting a little crazy for a bit or be completely calm, I’ve seen both reactions out of my animals. Be sure to vacuum often as well. You wouldn’t believe how many of those little buggers hide in the carpets.


Also holy crap I didn’t mean for that wall of text, I guess that goes to show how many run ins we have with those little demons, living in a warm climate and all.

We use a furminator too, and while it works, we really have to go to town to get all the undercoat off and it seems like it just rips his top coat apart in the process. I was thinking of getting one of the undercoat brushes to see if that was any better.

Anyone have any experience with something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061MWJ0/

Nizoral also breaks me out badly. I have fungal acne and use 1% ketoconazole wipes. They're marketed for pet use but the ingredient list looks fine to me. I've been using them for 2 months 3x a week and it keeps my fungal acne completely at bay. I get them off amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Pet-MD-Chlorhexidine-Wipes-Ketoconazole/dp/B0180A1J38/ref=sr_1_13)

Active Ingredients : Chlorhexidine 2%, and Ketoconazole 1 % in an alcohol-based solution. Inactive Ingredients: Water, Propylene Glycol, Nonoxynol-9, lactic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice, Glycerine, Fragrance, Methylisothiazolinone

You want something more like this https://www.amazon.com/Coastal-Pet-Undercoat-Designed-Undercoats/dp/B0083TSC64/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=grooming+rake&qid=1572242409&sr=8-5


You do NOT want any blades on the tools you use as they can break and damage the coat extremely easily. Honestly the only brushes I use for my own dogs is a soicker brush and a comb for tangles and I own 3 aussies. Along with monthly deshed baths and blow outs, they hardly shed at all and have nice coats

Something like this works sooooo well you don't even know. She'll still shed but the amount of hair you can get off is amazing.

Get an undercoat rake

A greyhound comb

And a slicker brush this is my go to.

Brush with slicker brush then go over with undercoat rake paying special attention to the neck/chest, the sides, and the back legs. Lastly run the comb through the dog making sure you get all the way down to the skin.

If needed get a detangling spray. I know Cowboy magic is a good brand.

Take him to a groomer to get him professionally blown out with a high velocity dryer. It will definitely cut back on the shedding.

Don't use a furminator desheding rake on him. All you will do is pull out the top coat and wreck it.

If you're willing to spend some extra money I'd highly recommend this brush https://www.amazon.com/Chris-Christensen-Slicker-Brush-Large/dp/B00KAJQJ74 , I use it every day when grooming and it works wonders on knots and mats. Otherwise any long pinned slicker brush in combination with a greyhound comb or metal comb will work well https://www.chewy.com/andis-steel-pet-comb-75-in and of course maintaining a regular brushing schedule :)

I've heard a normal dremel is best, just get the attachment for it, but I bought this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU0XG4/
Have not been disappointed with it. It does take a long time to grind down hard black nails on large(70+lb) dogs, but I think that's probably true of any dremel.

So I’m on this same road and recently hunted through EVERYTHING that touches my face (hair products included) for ingredients that feed fungal acne... and if a product has any of those ingredients, it is booted from my routine. Period. That has helped a surprising amount. My routine is prettyyyyy bare bones at the moment, and my skin seems to LIKE it.

I also hate putting shampoo on my face because it BURNS but these ketoconazole wipes are not harsh on my skin. I’m even able to use them at morning and at night without feeling like I’m damaging my face. They’re for pets (I know, I know. Weird.) but they’ve noticeably improved my skin so far and they don’t burn. I have high hopes that being consistent with this will get my skin back to a healthy baseline.

I love the furminator (short hair version) and the Kong Zoom Groom. I like using the zoom groom during bath time too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0040QW33W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542834804&sr=8-3&keywords=furminator+short&dpPl=1&dpID=41hcGO%2BhI4L&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/KONG-ZoomGroom-Grooming-Brush-Raspberry/dp/B0002AR19Q?th=1&psc=1

I use the 7300 and I love it! Much cheaper than the 8050 and does the job well!

I guess that depends on what you mean by good... I like the tighter curl look. So, I brush mine out right before a bath so their curls are tight afterwards. I also keep their hair pretty short. When they were longer during the winter, I brushed them daily to keep the mats out.

Here is the brush I use: http://www.amazon.com/Safari-Self-Cleaning-Large-Small-Slicker/dp/B000YIWVA0/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1427503207&sr=1-4&keywords=dog+brush
It works well for getting out tangles.

Pal who wrote the loooong post about malassezia suggested using DOGGIE WIPES on your face cause they have ketoconazole in them. The Nizoral shampoo has the same active and has been the most effective thing I've tried so far for my bumps. Is this absolutely insane or worth a shot? I've been looking for an alternative to the shampoo cause it's so drying, but cannot find a cream with ketoconazole. I may try another anti-fungal product but I'm scared it will not be as effective. Here's a link to the doggie wipes.

Just for funsies, here's a link to the cream I'm considering. Any opinions/guidance on this is appreciated. Thanks!! ✨

I also prefer Dremel over clippers after using them both. I like that the ends of the nail end up smooth instead of having somewhat sharp edges that you get with clippers. It's also easier to get the nail shorter, IMO, because if you do hit the quick it's a much smaller impact than clippers.

I use this one on the low setting . Find the right holding position for your dog (shouldn't be hard with a 40 pound-er) and tell him he's a good boy when he's not squirming. "Practice" using the Dremel on him without turning it on. You won't actually be trimming his nails at this point. When he seems to be used to that turn the Dremel on at arms length while still holding him. If he doesn't freak out then move it closer. Touch the handle end of the Dremel to a nail while the Dremel is on so he can feel the vibrations without the grinding. If he's still being a good boy then start trimming. The best time to do your dog's nails is when he's tired and/or asleep.

This it's a great tool and will take the undercoat out very easily.

https://www.amazon.com/Safari-W6116-De-matting-Comb/dp/B0002ARR2W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499712358&sr=8-1&keywords=matt+rake

Use this for de-matting the back end. Works great and is gentle and safe. Those blades are sharp but the rounded edge is not sharpened.

https://www.amazon.com/Coastal-Pet-Safari-Undercoat-Designed/dp/B0083TSC64/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499712440&sr=1-7&keywords=undercoat+rake

and

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIRYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O79wzbCFSBEAN

for de-tangling use an undercoat rake with rotating pins, and the single row static rake to pull the hair out.

https://www.amazon.com/Slicker-Dog-Cat-Grooming-Brush/dp/B00P9MZB9E/ref=sr_1_13?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499712524&sr=1-13&keywords=dog+brush+slicker

Then I'll use a slicker to make him soft and shiny.

I was thinking about introducing the puppy to a dremel-type nail file from an early age, working it up to it slowly (introducing it, treating, touching it to its paw, treating, etc.) - thoughts?

Furminator makes a wide-tooth non-bladey undercoat rake, Link - worth looking into? Or something like this one? My dog is going to blow its undercoat twice a year and I've read elsewhere that undercoat rakes help a lot to remove the fluff and keep them from matting. I'll be taking the dog to the groomer as well to help it out of course, but I plan on brushing daily with it.

And the Les Poochs looks in the same range as a Furminator anyway, which I was budgeting for way back when before I research double coats more, so thank you for that recommendation.

This is a simple tool and works very well. My roommate has a lab and I was surprised how effective this is (I'm used to overwhelming Newfie fluff).

This dog shampoo is my secret weapon against sebderm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037Z6VK8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The reason it probably goes straight is probably what happens to me: my curl isn't that strong and also like most people prone to sebderm my scalp tends to be oily. The combo of just time and oil relaxes out the curl. I have to wash every 2-4 days. A strong hold gel can get me some more time, plus in the morning I can use a bit of water scrunched in to "reactivate" it.

I'd wear a jacket in case he tries to nip. It also helps to have two people (one to restrain rabbit, one to clip).

Some people also choose to file their rabbits nails using a dremel. It's a slower process, but for some rabbits stresses them out less. https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540144457&sr=8-3&keywords=pet+nail+grinder+for+dogs

or

https://www.amazon.com/Hertzko-Electric-Painless-Grooming-Smoothing/dp/B01IPW47BW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540144457&sr=8-4&keywords=pet+nail+grinder+for+dogs

Good luck!

Undercoat rakes are good. I also use a shedding blade and a zoomgroom.

The most effective tool I have for my GSD (not long haired) is a high velocity blower.

https://www.amazon.com/SleekEZ-Horse-Brush-Grooming-Tool/dp/B00VC8DQX2

looked like a good one to get. I can't afford a furminator right now, but i need to get a grooming tool for my husky to help with keeping his hair from matting when he sheds a lot.

My girl (Bernese Mountain Dog, 3) is very sensitive and HATES baths, so I do it myself to make sure she doesn't get overwhelmed / have a negative experience. We go to one of the self serve dog washes in our city and it works great. It costs $10 to use the bath, shampoo, and blowdryer. Best of all is that when she shakes and gets water everywhere, it's no biggie. I use their shampoo, but bring my own brushes:

• Undercoat rake for getting out the loose hair
  
• Dematting comb to thin the tail / skirt feathers (she's not matted, but a groomer friend showed me how this comb can be used to trim longer fur without breaking out the scissors. It's a great technique!)
  
  We go once every 2 months(ish) during the winter, and 1-2x / month in the summer.
  
  I don't trim her nails in the summer (plenty of off leash excursions to wear them down) but in the winter I use a regular clipper. She hates it, so I just try to do 1 per day as I notice them getting too long.
  
  

Well I'm in no way a dog expert hah. I would seek out any local trainers/behaviorist in your area. With the shedding problem though a good weekly run down with a rake would help tremendously. I use this one:

Oster Professional Pet Grooming Undercoat Rake, 18 Teeth Wide, Coarse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061MWJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_chUBwbKD1SYTC

It does an amazing job of pulling out the thick undercoat while leaving the top coat (the guard hairs) untouched. The thick undercoat is the culprit of all the masses of hair you see around the house, while the guard coat is very important to the dogs temperature regulation. You never want to shave, trim, or use a furminator on a double coated dog. It will do more harm than good.

As for the food aggression I would google some tips or seek out a professional. Sorry I couldn't be more help!

Get him brushed by a professional to get his coat looking perfect and then you can do it yourself to maintain it. Just be sure to let the groomer know that he/she shouldn’t trim or shave any of his fur. You’d be surprised at how many groomers don’t know how to groom double coated dogs.

Edit: Here’s a list of all the tools I use to groom my pup.

1. Slicker Brush
   
   
2. Metal Comb
   
   
3. Undercoat Rake
   
   
4. Another Brush
   
   
5. High Velocity Blower (for when he blows his coat)
   
   
   Edit #2: Was going through my amazon purchase history to see if I could suggest any other grooming products and came across the furminator purchase I made. Never buy one of those things, regardless of how highly rated it is on amazon. It cuts through your dogs coat instead of removing the loose fur. Stick to the rake I linked above.

Sweet buddy! - Looks like he needs some brushy brushy - this is my weapon of choice (only thing that ive found that takes down the undercoat shedding)

I've found that this kind works the best for my shibe! And her fur doesn't get caught in it at all!

Safari Pet Dual-Sided Stainless Steel Shedding Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ARR22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s62VCbDGVS1H0

Owner of a naughty shih poo and dog groomer here. I basically went to grooming school because I was sick of paying for his monthly grooms! I'd definitely recommend a small table and grooming arm, a small dryer, a pair of adjustable clippers (you can use these to trim pads and do sanitary cuts as well as regular clipping), and either a set of clipper combs or just the lengths you like. I'd also recommend a pair of straight shears and thinning shears. I use Aussie Dog shears at work because they are inexpensive ($99 for 3 pairs) and have a good weight to them but any petedge shears would probably be fine for the light trimming you'd be doing.

I groom my dog once a month usually. I bathe, dry, brush and comb him. I dremel his nails, pluck his ears, give him a sanitary trim and shave his pads. I usually use a 1/2in clipper comb on him just to keep him tidy (he really hates being brushed so I try to keep that to a minimum. I then round his feet and use my thinning shears on the corners of his eyes. I usually give him a little schnauzer head for simplicity (#10 blade on the top of his head and ears, little eyebrows and just trim the beard) but I have given him a shaved poodle face in the past.

My favorite is the Oster undercoat rake. Its very efficient and my dog loves being brushed with it. I have a slicker brush and FURminator and they're both decent, but they are more time-consuming and my dog has mixed feelings about being groomed with them.

I love my zoom groom! I have a greyhound who also sheds regularly, and she appears to see it as a massage, while all the hair gets brushed out and left outside. I usually rub it in circles to get the most hair out at once.

Use Chris Christiensen's White on White shampoo for the yellowing. It works great!

https://www.amazon.com/Chris-Christensen-White-Shampoo-fl-oz/dp/B000NV87FG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501318496&sr=8-1&keywords=chris+christensen+shampoo

That will be one large dog!

High Five for getting him to a great home.

I'd present the new owner with a couple of items. Rake Brush and Training book

https://www.amazon.ca/Deshedding-Grooming-Dramatically-Shedding-GUARANTEED/dp/B00CD0H1ZC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1462398946&sr=8-4&keywords=furminator found this, on sale for who knows how long but seems pretty comparable.

I don't use a furminator because I'm worried about coat breakage, but in moderation I think they are the easiest way to deal with shedding!

For Aussie coat I think a rubber curry comb would work very well. I also like a metal shedding blade. Looks weird, but they really pull hair off quickly- I would try to get one in an appropriate size for your dog. They make them big for horses, but those are kind of hard to use on smaller dogs. Lastly, for any breed with an undercoat an undercoat rake is essential- it basically will brush mainly the undercoat. I have a brush similar to the 'coat king' mentioned here (it is basically an undercoat rake) and it is the tool I use the 90% of the time I am brushing my dog.

Some dogs have naturally lighter patches behind their shoulders and on the sides of their neck. On a white dog, this can make the other areas of the coat appear more yellow in comparison, especially if the dog is naturally ivory instead of bright white.

In American Eskimo dogs, the fur can be white with "biscuit cream" and that appears to be the case for your dog.

See this article: http://www.bestinshowdaily.com/breeder-buzzwords-the-american-eskimo-dog/

And this one: http://caninechronicle.com/featured/judging-the-american-eskimo-dog/

You can try a coat shampoo that has UV brighteners in it, which the eye will perceive as whitening the coat, or you can try a shampoo with bluing (careful to not dye your dog blue), which will optically balance the yellow in the coat.

Some shampoos you can try:

https://www.amazon.com/Chris-Christensen-White-Shampoo-fl-oz/dp/B000NV87FG

https://www.amazon.com/Isle-Dogs-Coature-Evening-Primrose/dp/B002LAS6US/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1479763482&sr=1-2&keywords=isle+of+dogs+no+16

https://www.amazon.com/BioGroom-Super-White-Shampoo-32/dp/B004ZMTQJK/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1479763548&sr=1-3&keywords=bio+groom+white

Try something like this first - our vet recommended them after we started dealing with some catne

Cut the pads In half and then gently wipe its chin


Pet MD Chlorhexidine Wipes with Ketoconazole and Aloe for Cats and Dogs, 50 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0180A1J38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ckHYDb9VSZQK9

We picked up the Safari rake you mentioned, and I had a couple questions regarding brushing.

• With this brush as well as other, do you always brush in the direction of that coat or is it useful to sometime "go against the grain"?
  
  When I was using the rake earlier, I was going along his coat without putting pressure down onto his skin (in both in the direction of his coat). When I was going with the flow of his coat, I got pretty much all the hair, but when I went the opposite direction there were some clumps that I brushed out.
  
  
• With the pin brush / comb I had the same question regarding which direction to brush in.

I use a metal loop style brush. Works great on my catahoula and pitbull.
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Sided-Shedding-Deshedding-Grooming-Stainless/dp/B0002ARR22/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=loop+dog+brush&qid=1561997982&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-3

We use something similar to this. It works great. https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4?crid=WQ0DMFH20XN&keywords=pet+nail+grinder&qid=1535888001&sprefix=pet+nail+&sr=8-3&ref=mp_s_a_1_3

This is essentially the same and half the price. I got one for my husky and it's been awesome.

Nail dremmel amazon (this has been easier, than regular clippers for us. His nails are not clear and are very thick. And cheaper than having the vet do them) - https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504740781&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+dremel

Regular shampoo he developed a rash, he is good with this brand and not unreasonable - https://www.amazon.com/Hypoallergenic-Dog-Cat-Shampoo-Chamomile/dp/B01COZEBQ2/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1504740915&sr=1-5&keywords=dog+shampoo+hypoallergenic

I have no issues with people who spend less. I am just posting to say how quickly things we don't think about can add up. And yes, I plan to run with my dog. He will be out in the elements camping/hiking. He will be wearing gear.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AR19Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I was using. Before or after it just brings her oils up where if I don't use it shes clean for at least 2.5 - 3 weeks before I feel oil/grease and then I wash her on week 4.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015UE70PI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Does something similar but doesn't seems to bring the oil up.

So you could be right, maybe not getting full contact with her skin. To be honest her fur is short but thick and it seems to just absorb the shampoo no matter how much I use.

I and using a rake brush similar to this (I think mine has shorter spikes)brush Right now I’m just doing one or two passes when he falls asleep, sometimes I can get more depending on how hard he sleeps. I got him about a month ago. I This is good information thank you

"malassezia furfur" is often called a yeast or yeast like. "one should always bear in mind that Malassezia yeasts are integral components of the skin microbiota, and therefore the therapeutic target should be controlling the Malassezia population rather than eradicating it."

usually means treating the flair up, then using products that don't feed them. It need a long term treatment. Like a nizoral face mask once a month or "Stridex in the doggy box" as SimpleSkinCareScience puts it.

Worth a shot! It's a lot safer too as you can visually see when you're coming close to the quick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4

So this is the dremel:
https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510937485&sr=8-3&keywords=dog+nail+dremel

I can't speak on longevity obviously, but compared to the ones I see in the youtube videos, it is much more quiet but plenty powerful. I started using it just on the low setting to acclimate her, but found that the high isn't much louder, and we get it done so much faster. But you could definitely just use the low setting, too. I really hope you have the same success as us if you get it. I feel like such a crappy owner when I let her nails get longer than they should be, but the struggle is real! I would dread taking her in for an entire week leading up to actually doing it.

Strongly agree! We brush & use this de-matting brush on ours. Works wonders.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OIOB90E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2pZyCbB219KGB

Also, I think this might be less effective but they definitely hold up. My family has had one for years for our cats and dogs and it doesn't even show rust spots. I also wasn't really thinking about it too hard before, but a grilling brush could also probably be of use.

My belgian pup is 11 weeks :D So welcome to the family!

For grooming you're going to want:

• Long tooth undercoat rake
  
  
• Comb
  
  
• Slicker Brush
  
  
• Porcupine Brush
  
  I would not use a furminator, it will cut the coat and give a rough look to the dog.

I use a Dremel to grind my pups nails. It took him a little bit to get used to it, but for me, it is easier to see where the quick is.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517489576&sr=8-2&keywords=dremel+dog+nail+grinder

I use a Dremel. Specifically, this one from Amazon.

My dog has a bit of trauma associated with regular clippers, and we've worked up to being able to tolerate clipping a couple nails with them. For her, though, it was much easier to work from scratch with a new object.

She doesn't mind when I do her nails now. I've trained her to lay upside down between my legs while I work on her toes. :)

Try the Zoom Groom by Kong. I think it's way better than the furminator and really won't damage their coats.

http://www.amazon.com/KONG-ZoomGroom-Grooming-Brush-Boysenberry/dp/B0002AR19Q/ref=sr_1_10?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1392572821&sr=1-10&keywords=dog+grooming

They are pretty low maintenance. Just the occasional bath, nail trim, and brush them with a rubber curry brush, I recommend this one http://www.amazon.com/KONG-ZoomGroom-Grooming-Brush-Boysenberry/dp/B0002AR19Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417920179&sr=8-1&keywords=Zoom+Groom

Yea it's electric. It's not really a nail filer though... more of a rotary tool for general use. This is the model I have. It comes with a lot of different attachments: wire bushes, sanding drums, grinding stones, grinding wheels, small rotary files or burrs, maybe some more stuff so it's pretty useful around the house too.

My mom got me into it because she's involved with greyhound rescue groups and their nails are in really bad shape when they come off the tracks. Using clippers, they had way too many blood-spraying, dog-helping-in-pain-accidents. Clippers are easy to overshoot your intended cut and cut the quick and they're also known for splitting nails in half or muliple pieces, either right when you cut it or if they snag a small piece on the carpet it can rip off the splintered part of the nail.

My mom swears by [this extension](
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-225-01-Flex-Shaft-Attachment/dp/B0000302Y8/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HS02GVFVQ5Z8AQDSF7G) that allows the noise of the electric motor to be a few feet away. I don't have one these.


Then when you run out of sanding drums that came with your dremel, you can but a lifetime supply for [$8.99]
(http://www.amazon.com/TEMO-sand-coarse-Mandrel-dremel/dp/B00564U22G/ref=pd_sim_469_10?ie=UTF8&dpID=41G2GNphVlL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0YAGTNM5J58CC1PVN0B9)

Edit: Dremel must have caught on, they now sell a specific pet grooming model. I can't speak for it but it looks quite a bit smaller than mine, I'll admit mine is a little overkill but I use it for other things too.

You should be brushing at least once a week, maybe even 2x-3x if the hair is longer. To make sure it doesn't get matted. I recommend buying a miracle brush! at Amazon.

My girls were going in 2x a month for trimming and face/feet and bathing. I recently just decided to do them myself and save the money.

Poodles don't really shed, at least mine don't, I think that's the point of a poodle? I never have hair in my house and I have two of them.

It usually takes me about 20-30 minutes to brush out each of my girls, but an hour if I decide to blow them out first.

A curry comb/brush like this? We've tried one & it didn't seem to make much difference. Unless you mean something more along the lines of this????

If you want to untangle dog hair you need some of this called The Stuff. This stuff works WONDERS! At my job we sometimes have to groom dogs like Shih Tzu that really tangled. I sprayed some of this stuff my boss said to use and rubbed it into the coat. The brush started to just flow through!

The best decision we made was to get a dog nail grinder.

I just had a hard time with clipping nails, and being afraid of clipping to close. The grinder, just like with clipping, takes some patience and training with rewards, but I can grind a whole paw of nails very quickly, and not have to work very hard at it. Plus, if you do correctly the nails are then smooth and not jagged.

[Veterinary Formula Clinical Care Antiparasitic and Antiseborrheic Medicated Shampoo for Dogs (16 oz bottle)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037Z6VK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kSJ0Cb025GSD4)

I'm not the only human using this as shampoo. It's a sulfur and salicylic acid combo.

Your new friend: [the dremel] (http://www.dailypuppy.com/articles/how-to-use-a-dremel-to-trim-a-dogs-nails_804.html) I got mine [online] (http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8-Volt-Pet-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_1?srs=5538998011&ie=UTF8&qid=1377028567&sr=8-1&keywords=dogs)

Has she tried a dematting comb? ones like the one at the link will cut the mat as well as thin the surrounding hair.

If she can, take the dog to a professional groomer and see if they have any better suggestions on detanglers and cuts

https://www.amazon.com/Go-Pet-Club-Grooming-Dryer/dp/B00DX24SD2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1539649895&sr=8-7&keywords=forced+air+dryer+for+dogs&dpID=41zGI0ztYKL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch. This is it, it has speed and temp options! it's better than the one we had at my old grooming salon.

Have you tried a dremel for dogs? It’s the only thing I can use on my GSD.

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-7300-PT-4-8V-Nail-Grooming/dp/B003TU0XG4

And I find it’s more forgiving. It slowly the files the nail down so you can really see what you’re doing.

You need three things:

• Wire brush
  
• Furminator
  
• Powerful vacuum
  
  Use the wire brush every couple days, furminator every week, and vacuum regularly.

What you want is a dematting rake. A Furminator is good for maintenance, but to remove actual mats that's what you want. It'll cut right though them instead of you tugging on it with a Furminator.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZ7UOCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n20iDbTP61H2F

So like one of these?

We have stopped using our furminator because we feel like it's too rough on his skin. A combination of a paddle, thin bristled brush with a rake-like brush has worked wonders! Trying to stay on top of the hair this year as he sheds his winter coat.

https://www.amazon.com/Coastal-Pet-Undercoat-Designed-Undercoats/dp/B0083TSC64/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1519734351&sr=8-9&keywords=rake+brush

https://www.amazon.com/Rotatable-Footprint-Paddle-Grooming-Suitable/dp/B01FCTG7TQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1519734368&sr=8-8&keywords=paddle+dog+brush

I've been using one on my German Shepard mix and Patterdale Terrier for years. It removes lots of hair and they've never had mats.

Edit: Here is the kind I use :) http://www.amazon.com/Furminator-104012-FURminator-Dog-Rake/dp/B0062Z0RPA/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_img_y

An undercoat rake would probably really help too. This combined with a fine-toothed comb is what we use on our shedding machine corgi.

from the Amazon listing.

Yes they are blades and if you rub your finger on them you will cut yourself.

if you want a rake that won't cut, get one of the pin style rakes

This is the one I use at my salon. It's durable and long lasting. Safe to use on puppies 2 months and older.
Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AqwNBbFX8K8ZA

I got a dremel pet tool to sand them down instead of cutting them. It's a lot more gentle so it hardly bothers them at all. Worth every penny

SleekEZ Original Deshedding Grooming Tool Use this outside. The hair goes everywhere.


Also this for your clothes.

I worked in a grooming salon for a long while. I can say that this is the best fur brush I have ever used. It looks goofy at first, but it takes out mountains of undercoat.
http://www.amazon.com/KONG-ZoomGroom-Grooming-Brush-Boysenberry/dp/B0002AR19Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1369431841&sr=1-1&keywords=zoom+groom

For a coat like that, all you really need is a hound glove and maybe a shedding blade

Something like this?

Oster Professional Pet Grooming Undercoat Rake, 18 Teeth Wide, Coarse https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00061MWJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NezuybJYSQMCD