Reddit mentions: The best dog health supplies

1- Always adopt more than one!

Rats are very social animals, and to prevent undue stress and sadness, they need to have rattie friends with which to spend their time. Also, try to adopt same-sex pairs/groups to avoid accidental litters; if you must adopt rats of different genders, make sure one of them are ‘fixed’ before housing them together. It’s also a good idea to get littermates, as they’ll already be familiar with each other, and they’ll be the same age, which becomes significant as they age and pass on.

Also, I HIGHLY recommend trying to find a reputable rat rescue near you before going to a pet store or breeder. There are SO MANY loveable, beautiful rats out there that were rescued from bad conditions and need loving homes. Breeders often supply reptile owners with feeders, and many don’t keep their rats in good conditions or socialize them properly. Same with pet stores. A lot of times, female pet store rats will even end up pregnant because someone didn’t keep them away from the males. There are several Facebook groups and websites with area-specific rescue groups that can point the way for you to find your babies.

2- Make sure your cage type is right!

Rats, like humans, need their personal space. If you cram too many in too small a space, you’ll get stress and fighting. Use a cage dimension calculator like this one to make sure the cage you’re looking at buying is big enough for the number of fur babies you’re going to get (2-3 is a good starting number.) also important is the distance between the cage bars, especially if you’re going to adopt young rats. Remember, anything they can fit their head through, they can fit the rest of their body through if they really want to. Try to get a cage with no more than 1/3-1/2inch of space between the bars.

Rats are also climbers- while a single-story unit would be fine for a rabbit or guinea pig, it’s important for rats to have multiple levels and platforms on which to live and play.

DO NOT use a glass tank. Rats are prone to upper respiratory infections, and they also pee quite a lot. This wouldn’t be an issue, except rat pee is high in ammonia, which is bad for them to breathe in. Tanks just can’t get the proper level of ventilation to be a good home for rats, even with daily cleanings; they might look cute, but for your babies’ sake, stick with a cage.

Make sure your cage has smooth floors. Rats, like most other pawed animals, have little pads on their feet. They’re also quite sensitive, and prone to getting their toes caught. Make sure that any mesh or wire platforms in your cage are covered with a hard, smooth surface so that your rats can walk/run/jump around comfortably.

3- Essentials

Rats are prey animals, so their instincts drive them to hide and nest; make sure you give them lots of places to hide away, like little houses, nests, baskets, and hammocks. Places up high are a favorite among my girls.

Make sure you have an constant, ample water supply. I recommend having a couple of water bottles, or a bottle and a dish- just in case they finish one off during the day, they’ll have plenty more to make it until you get home and notice that one’s empty. I personally keep a dish with dry rat food full in the cage as well, to make sure they’re never hungry.

Fleece liners or other bedding options are also important- rats aren’t very good at regulating their body temperatures, so giving them a means to keep warm is important. Fleece covers over the trays (I use blankets cut to shape and pinned with binder clips) or bedding spread liberally over the bottom of a deeper pan is important for this.

Exercise wheels are also a good idea; get the biggest one you can- it’s not good for them to have their backs/tails bent at too far an angle. A saucer wheel is perfect, but my girls wouldn’t run on the one I gave them, so I got them this one

Also, not quite essential, but- rats are über smart, and can be litterbox trained! Giving them a litter box and training them to use it will save a lot of time and effort when it comes to cleaning their cage every week.

4- Toys and decorations

Like I said before, rats are smart! They need mental stimulation. Puzzles, toy balls, and hanging bird toys are all great ideas. There are also a ton of diy toy ideas on the Internet in places like Pinterest. A lava rock ledge or a brick in the cage will help them keep their claws trim, and provide a convenient step-up into a hide. Try to stay away from soft woods, and keep with hardwood toys and shelters.
As for decor; they’ll probably regularly chew through the fleece you give them, so it’s easy to switch up the cage aesthetic whenever you want :) you can also cut up the old fleece into bits and give it to them as bedding to nest with, too.

This is my girls’ cage after it was mostly-clean yesterday (I did the top level later on.) I know the image is potato-quality, but you’ll probably be able to see the water bottles, hammocks, hides, and wheel :) their food dish is stashed behind the purple ramp next to the wheel haha

You might also notice the boxes in the top level; cardboard boxes are a great thing to put in their cages; it’s a chew toy and a hide all in one! You’ll need to replace them regularly, of course, but things like soda boxes and tissue boxes are great cage additions.

5- Cleanliness

It’s important to clean your rats’ cage weekly, at least, and twice weekly if they’re hairless (hairless are more prone to uri’s.) Personally, I wipe down the bars with baby wipes (or soap and water if they really need it) and clean the pans with soap and water. As for all of the hammocks and fleece, I toss it in the washing machine with my own clothes (no fabric softener or dryer sheets) and also make sure to beat them out (like a rug) so they’re as clean as possible before putting them in the laundry. I also wash all of their plastic toys, dishes, and wheels with soap and water, making sure to rinse them well so there’s no residue.

It’s rare, but sometimes your rats will need some help getting clean. When my girls were younger, there came a point where they smelled like pee and they had porphyrin all over their fur from their own cleanings; at that point, I prepared a thick towel and some warm water, and washed each of them with oatmeal baby soap, making sure to avoid their faces and ears (as you would with a dog or other pet) and immediately afterward cuddled them in the towel until they were dry enough that I felt like they wouldn’t be too cold in their cage. My SO was a big help with that stage.

6- Nutrition

Rats need a varied diet. Depending on where you look, you get different percentages, but personally what I do is leave a bowl full of dry food in their cage and top it off as needed, and every night (or, being real, every other night) when I get home and make my dinner, I make a plate for them and load it up with a bed of kale, sliced or canned vegetables, berries, a sprinkle of oats or nuts (I have some petite babies and I’m trying to help them gain weight) and some chicken or turkey baby food; sometimes I’ll even put some fruit baby food on there as well- they absolutely love it. For protein I’ll also sometimes do scrambled eggs or chicken that I’ve shredded up post-cooking, instead of poultry baby food (baby food is just the easiest thing for me to do) :) these guys give a comprehensive list of foods that are safe for rats, and when in doubt, google it before feeding it to them. Male rats generally have more dietary rules than females, so watch out for that with them.

7- Playtime!

Every single day, your rats will need at least an hour of playtime with you. Just like we were told as kids “get out and play an hour a day” this is really important for their mental and physical health. This could be anything from a free-roam in a rat-proof room, or just running around on the bed while you watch a movie. This is also a great time for you to teach them some tricks (there are plenty of tutorials on the web for how to train them 😊) or set up a little play area for them complete with toy houses and things to explore and treat-laden puzzles for them to solve. For treats, my girls love yogies, nuts, and dried fruit :)

Hi there, send u/jennagadski a private message - she cared for a palatalized bunny and can give a lot of advice! She is a very kind and wonderful person and will share tips. :)

​

I am so sorry your little boy is sick, I will share trips with you below, it is a lot of info but please read it....

​

Feeding and Diet:

1. This is simple, you have to supplement the food he eat by syringe feeding him. This is an absolute MUST. You cannot just wait till he starts eating on his own. Without food he will not get better. He is getting worse because he doesn't have the strength to recover. Feed him Critical Care if you have it ASAP!
   
   1. Get a skinny syringe and cut the tip off to make the opening wide. Mix some of his usual pellets with water until liquidy/pasty and slowly feed through a syringe every two hours (yes, you need to work from home till he improves a little). If you have a blender you can also mix in some fresh herbs. You can put a touch of banana of the tip of the syringe to make him want it more and make it easier to feed him. You can even mix in a touch of banana or some no-sugar added baby food baby food (like carrot or pumpkin or sweet potato - but not too much since it still has natural sugars). If you have Critical Care food even better, but if not pellet paste will work in the short term.
      
   2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iGZVYVm5Bg - how to syringe feed (put a bit of something sweet like banana on the tip to get bun to like it more)
      
   3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QW0Taz0MFWE - more on how to syringe feed.
      
   4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0dil7iQQCU - how to syringe feed in a less stressful way (more effort but will work better sometimes)
      
2. Keep feeding him from you hand - it's hard for him to eat on his on. It's easier if you help the food get into his mouth.
   
   1. Rub banana on hay to make it more enticing and give to him by hand.
      
   2. Offer fresh herbs - dill (has great gut mobility portieres), cilantro, oregano, mint, basil, parsley - these have a strong aroma and can help stimulate bunny appetite and get him to eat more. Rinse them and give them wet for extra hydration.
      
3. Also provide water through a syringe the same way. He needs to stay hydrated.
   
4. Also he might be gassy, go to the store and get some BABY gas drops or Infacol in Europe. Those are 100% safe and can be given anytime a tummy feels gassy. Liquid simethicone is the ingredient in Baby or Infant gas drops, which are available over the counter in drugstores and many supermarkets. administer between .5 and 1cc of liquid simethicone orally, using a syringe without needle. These can really have save your bunny’s life.
   
   ​
   
   Cecotropes:
   
   These are really essential to his diet, he cannot eat them on his own now. So you have to pick them up and feed them to him on a spoon by hand - if dry, moisten a little bit and may at some banana if he is refusing to eat otherwise. But basically handfeed as many of those as you can to him, and clean the rest to make sure they don't get matted in his fur.
   
   ​
   
   Cleaning butt ad feet:
   
   OK so you have to check on him every hour to keep him clean - this is really essential to prevent urine scald and fly strike. You should not let poop and urine be on him, so check on him every hour like a baby and clean him of.
   
   Now when it looks like he is really dirty, you can give him a little bath in about 1 inch of warm water - clean his paws and his butt and dry him well. Good instructions in this link http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/buttbath.html. Do this ASAP!
   
   Also you you can get some scissors and trim the fur around his bottom a little to keep it shorter and cleaner.
   
   You need to keep brushing him often to keep him clean also, and wipe his eyes with a moist clean cotton ball to remove any gunk.
   
   ​
   
   Helping him stay clean:
   
   
5. Line his enclosure with very soft blankets to help his feet not get sores on his feet. You need to also put some pillows around the side to help him stay upright and not fall over. You are trying to make it very soft inside basically.
   
6. Then on top of the blanket on the floor, line the space with adsorbent puppy pee pads. The pee will get absorbed into them vs soaked through into the blanket. You will have to change them often, but it will help.
   
7. Also you can dipper him in the meantime to keep his little butt cleaner
   
   1. Special bunny diapers here https://bunnydiapers.com/
      
   2. There is also a great video at the bottom of this link on how to put on a regular newborn diaper onto a bunny http://www.disabledrabbits.com/urine-scald.html
      
8. Also make him a very shallow litter tray - get an shallow pen you have - baking sheet even or a boot tray like this or this - if you make it so he can get inside he may be able to use it.
   
   1. Put the puppy pee pads on the bottom of it and on top some of his litter box litter so he can tell
      
   2. Put this in place of where his current litter box it (and take that one out)
      
9. Again brush and clean his eyes for him
   
   ​
   
   Avoid depression:
   
   
10. Spend as much time with him on the floor as you can! He may be very sad now, he needs you!
    
11. Get him some things he can play with without moving much - try getting him high quality chews like here and some of the plastic toys I have listed here - like slinky and nesting cups.
    
12. Give him a stuffed animal as a cuddle buddy to cuddle against which may also help him not fall over.
    
    ​
    
    You will keep giving panacur over 28 days - that is the cycle and you should hopefully start to notice involvements soon enough .... but in the mean time you need to do all those things above.... basically take full care of your baby! I hope he recovered.
    
    ​
    
    Once he is well on the road to recovery, you can begin to do some physical therapy decried in this thread to help with balance issues that remain.
    
    ​
    
    Also try to look through some resources below for treatment and how to keep him comfortable now in addition to what I said above.
    
    http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Head_tilt
    
    https://rabbit.org/head-tilt-causes-and-treatment/
    
    https://bunningtonpost.com/2014/08/27/care-for-rabbit-head-tilt/
    
    http://www.disabledrabbits.com/head-tilt.html

Adorable pup!

There are two ways that I brush my Corgi's teeth which have great success.

So, first you will need a few things :

• (looks like you have a sample of this) Enzymatic toothpaste
  
  
• Maintenance Oral Gel
  
  
• Toothbursh, I use higher end brushes, which do make a difference. Kid's brushes are the best size or the small head ones. You can find some that are angled as well. For your pup the little finger brush is probably best for now.
  
  
• beef cannoli
  
  So, now that you have that... On to the ways I brush.
  
  Thumb in mouth This method is the most thorough and best approached from the front of the dog
  
  
• Take your index finger and gently rest it across the snout, being gentle and careful to not restrict airway or poke their eyes.
  
• Take your thumb and insert it in between the upper and lower jaw. It should enter one side and come out the other, effectively propping open the jaw and exposing the teeth while keep their tongue busy. Be careful here when doing this with any dog as you can lose a thumb if the dog is likely to bite or clamp down. Starting early usually mitigates the risk. Use your judgement!
  
• Brush each tooth in a gentle circular motion, making sure to get into all the nooks and crannies. I reapply toothpaste once per side. Be sure to gently brush around the gums as you can cause the gums to recede and wear away enamel if you are too forceful or use too stiff a brush. Treat them like your teeth.
  
• Brush the insides of the teeth if you can reach.
  
• Brush the tongue afterwards or let them lick the remaining paste off the brush to help clean the tongue.
  
• Afterwards, take the maintenance gel, apply about a .5 to 1inch line of gel on the upper and low gums of each side. I like to rub his lips on this to disperse but they are supposed to lick it and disperse it themselves.
  
• Give your pup a nice chewy, such as a tendon. Make sure they aren't made in China! I prefer ones made in the USA or Germany. Be careful with made and distributed / packaged in markings... Essentially, don't skimp! These are great occupiers, help prevent chewing on things you like, and also help keep their teeth clean, like those pesky molars!
  
  Now the second way...
  
  Closed mouth quick brush. This method is great for if you don't have a lot of time or the dog is a biter.
  
  
• Place your thumb across their snout.
  
• place the rest of your hand underneath their jaw, effectively holding their mouth shut. Be gentle here!
  
• slip the toothbrush between the lips. You can do this step first if it is easier for you.
  
• brush like normal, trying to get everything
  
• Let them open their mouth slightly and slide the toothbrush in between their front canines.
  
• brush the inside of their teeth
  
• brush their tongue
  
• apply gel as above
  
• Give your pup a nice chewy, such as a tendon.
  
  Hopefully this helps you! If you do this 1-2 times daily and provide high quality chewy snacks like tendons, you should reduce the need for dental visits at the vet of complete remove the need. Do pay attention to the gums and teeth though and consulate a vet for further advice.

Food:

• Orijen. We rotate around between foods, but always come back to this one. Great coats, no dental problems, consistent energy levels, good digestion, all around good.
  
• Durapet steel non-skid dishes. Nice solid steel construction, and the rubber ring stays put even with frequent washing.
  
• Fish oil! Right now we use Kirkland brand capsules from Costco, which the dogs gobble up like candy.
  
  Leashes/collars/harnesses:
  
  
• "WMC" leather leashes. 3/4" 4ft long, perfect weight and length for everyday training walks. I have no idea what this brand is but it's the best leash I've ever owned. Stamped with "WMC" which I assume is an identifying mark of some sort.
  
• brass id plates from gun dog supply. They last forever and work great.
  
• Not a commercial product, but, a ponytail tie around tags to silence them.
  
• Perfect Fit fleece lined harness for dogs with thin fur. The most comfortable option I've found.
  
• Sense-ible harness. A simple, classic front-clip harness. No frills, does the job without unnecessary cost or weird features.
  
  Grooming:
  
  
• Miller's Forge nail clippers. Simple, cheap, sharp, better than the expensive alternatives.
  
• Earthbath grooming wipes have been a godsend for my allergy dog. Wiping him down every day drastically reduces his seasonal allergy symptoms.
  
• Epi-Soothe shampoo for itchy skin.
  
• Rubber brush for short coats. No particular brand--brands have evolved over the years. Zoom Groom is popular now, but anything made of flexible grippy rubber with fingers/nubs will work.
  
• Burt's Bees shampoo has been a pleasant surprise. No strong perfume, and leaves coats soft without drying them out.
  
• CET toothpaste. The poultry flavor is a big hit--way better than some other brands.
  
  Beds:
  
  
• Kuranda beds. No stuffing to trap allergens, tall enough to let the roomba underneath, and sturdy as all hell. Throw a washable blanket on top for snuggling and it's the perfect dog bed. Seriously, if you take nothing else away from this, just remember Kuranda.
  
• ruff wear roll up mats. Mine are way older and don't look like the product pictured there, but hopefully the new ones are similar. Waterproof no-slip rubber backing, fleece top that lasts through serious abuse (read: digging), and a thin padded layer that doesn't bunch. Perfect for camping, mat training, training classes, any and all travel.
  
• Berkley & Jensen brand dog beds/throws. The ones I got were like thick blankets, canvas on one side and fleece on the other side with a thin layer of padding in the middle. They're amazing. Folded in half it's a crate mat. Folded twice it's a dog bed. Spread out it's a floor protector while feeding gross bones. Spread out it's also a car seat protector.
  
  
  Toys
  
  
• Orvis leather toys. They appear not to be sold currently, but I have a leather retrieving dummy that was perfect for intro retrieve training with a dog who was utterly disinterested in toys. The soft leather enticed him to pick it up, which was all the help I needed at the time.
  
• JW treat ball. Large opening, so perfect for chunks of biscuit or jerky. Large pieces of treats can be squeezed through the flexible opening for a challenging game. Soft rubber bounces quietly, does not clang around on hard floors or against hard furniture like buster cube or kong wobbler.
  
• Classic Kongs. I take this one for granted, but really useful toy. Stuff it with food before you leave for work and your dog has something productive to focus on for a little while at least.
  
• Goughnuts. Virtually indestructible rubber chew toys.
  
  Training goodies
  
  
• Starmark clicker. Loud click. raised button gives you more options than a typical box clicker.
  
• iClick clicker. Very quiet click. Also with a raised button for versatility.
  
• Terry Ryan treat bag. Again, mine is really old so I hope the new one is similarly good. The hinges pop open/shut with no trouble, way more convenient than a drawstring. Mine has been used and washed regularly for 6+ years without harming it.
  

Congrats on you new hedgie. I got my first 2 weeks ago. Do some research on your google but here are some of my first impressions and helping ease my Noodles into her new home.

Mealworms are the key to any hedgies heart. Not super mealworms though. These are a nice treat to greet them with on a spoon when you want to take them out. She also loves broccoli but hates apples. Research good foods, go to the store, it is trial and error.

Noodles was pretty shook up when my boyfriend brought her home as a surprise gift. So I set up her cage, food, water, etc and let her chill for 24 hours while she got used to my home. I also keep a thin fleece blanket on her cage except against the wall for fresh air.

To help cut costs I cut the sleeves off some old sweatshirts for her to snuggle in. I keep them on rotation and having 5 or 6 at a time allows for her to get a clean one about 2 times a week.

I found that she likes the Ware Flying Saucer more than a normal wheel. It is a solid base with no holes for toes to get caught in. Go ahead and buy the big one, you will need it.

Probably the most interesting thing I do is when I take her out I put her in the "poop box". I do this so it helps keep the cage bedding clean and so she does not mess on me. It is a high sided plastic container and I line it with paper towels. Makes for easy cleaning and I disinfect with a little Dial hand soap. There is nothing in there for her to hide and and it usually takes her about 10 mins to wake up and do her business. Then its time for for some snuggles... well more pokes, but we are getting there.


Edit: Forgot to mention when I get her out I turn off overhead lighting and fans. I didn't do this the first week and I have seen an improvement in her grumpiness now that I have started making things a little more relaxing for her.

Oh no! You can put a towel-covered hot water bottle next to him- that's what I do with my bun when she's in GI stasis.

I've collected notes from this subreddit over the years. Here's what another redditor here said:

"when our bunnies show signs of being ill we immediately administer baby gas drops (simethecone) and then if that doesn't produce improvement in the form of eating or pooping, we start administering pain and gut motility meds. in addition, we keep flavorless pedialyte on hand to keep them hydrated, and critical care for syringe feeding."

Another one said:

" I keep drugs on hand for pain management - meloxicam, tramadol, buprenorphine. I have a subcutaneous fluid kit. I keep canned pureed pumpkin, critical care, pellets, hay in a bag and treats also. I also have a variety of medications for stasis - metclopramide, cyproheptadine, a vitamin solution. Simethicone."

A very experienced rabbit person here, vgr1, said:

" Just as a note simethicone (main ingredient in baby gas drops ) do not work to 'relive gas' in rabbits. It will break up smaller bubbles and turn them into larger ones. The thought is that this makes them easier to pass... old wives tale.

The key is.... pain relief (like Metacam) and hydration, hydration, hydration. With full blown stasis, drugs from the vet are needed. Baby gas drops will not hurt and when a rabbit is not drinking the drops can help with this aspect of things. Of course talk to your rabbit savvy vet before you need to use anything."

DinkaAnimalLover said:

" I would bring him in anyways.. they can give him metacam at least to help with pain. A safe bun dose is about .3 to .6 mg/kg every 12 hrs. They will hold him over till morning when you should definitely go to a rabbit savvy vet ASAP!

A bunny in pain will not eat and may give up so pain meds tonight are a must. If you can also get an xray to see if there is stomach blockage that would be even better.

So metacam tonight and rabbit vet ASAP tomorrow as he will need that xray and gut mobility meds!

To help your bunny you need a few things now (aside from the vet) -​

1. This should be your fist step after getting metacam or if you can't get it...BABY gas drops - those are 100% safe and can be given anytime a tummy feels gassy (kind of hard vs squishy as usual). They really work and case save her life when you can't see a vet. Get baby gas drops in any store - Liquid simethicone is the ingredient in Baby or Infant gas drops, which are available over the counter in drugstores and many supermarkets. administer between .5 and 1cc of liquid simethicone orally, using a syringe without needle. These can really have save your bunnies life.
   
2. Metacam - pain meds for bunnies. This is critical as you bunny is likely in pain and a bunny in pain will not eat just making things worse. YOU MUST GET THIS.
   
3. Keep the bunny warm - provide a heating pack under the tummy or some warm water bottles next to him. Also a cozy fleece.
   
4. You must try to syringe fed bunny is he is not eating - mix some of his usual pellets with water until liquidy/pasty and slowly feed through a syringe every two hours or even more often. You cannot just wait till he starts eating on his own. Without food he will not get better. If you have a blender you can also mix in some fresh herbs. You can put a touch of banana of the tip of the syringe to make him want it more and make it easier to feed him. You can even mix in a touch of banana or some no-sugar added baby food baby food (like carrot or pumpkin or sweet potato - but not too much since it still has natural sugars). If you have Critical Care food even better, but if not pellet paste will work in the short term: https://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Critical-Care-Supplement-141gm/dp/B0021WZJD8/ref=asc_df_B0021WZJD8/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=218543830990&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1119565623768890596&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001880&hvtargid=pla-408281809127&psc=1
   
   
5. Also provide water through a syringe the same way. You can also steep some mint and offer that instead of water or add a touch of no sugar added juice to the water to encourage more drinking (use a bowl vs bottle).
   
   
6. You can also use unsweetened canned pumpkin puree to supplement pellet paste feeding - feed the pumping through a syringe or even offer it on a plate and see if he might lick it himself.
   
   
7. Offer fresh herbs - parsley, dill, cilantro, oregano, mint, basil - these have a strong aroma and can help stimulate bunny appetite and get him to eat more. Rinse them and give them wet for extra hydration.
   
   
8. Try tummy massage, see here for how to do it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbyC6CWbm5M - this does help!
   
   
9. Once you start seeing some poops again and as appetite comes back offer less pellets for a few days, encourage him to eat more hay as much as possible to be sure that fiber has his gut normal again sooner. You can rub a touch of banana on they to make it more appealing.
   
   
10. DO NOT offer any sugar - carrot or fruit for at least a while until all is back to normal.
    
    
    These videos will help you:
    
    https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/9nz8mn/snowy_loves_his_foodand_his_meds/ - how to give meds so bunnis don't mind
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iGZVYVm5Bg - how to syringe feed (put a bit of something sweet like banana on the tip to get bun to like it more)
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QW0Taz0MFWE - more on how to syringe feed.
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0dil7iQQCU - how to syringe feed in a less stressful way (more effort but will work better sometimes)
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDyqWvjEYiI - GI stasis treatment
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fPKtW5n5R0 - GI stasis treatment"
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbyC6CWbm5M - How to Help a Rabbit with Gas Pain"
    
    P.S. DinkaAnimalLover is a well-informed person on this subreddit. Here's a resource that she put together for new bunny parents that might help for general things:
    
    " In case you need any tips as a new bunny parent take a look at the little guide on care I assembled below https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Z_IvDuy5Fr-VOKwBVBSmZih0m1ATCIquIMhYyFl4aIw . I really tried to include all the info a new bunny parent might want into this guide... "
    
    Good luck!

I have a friend with a dog with pretty severe separation anxiety. She said this worked for her. Seems like it's about 50/50 for dogs, but for $20, it might be worth seeing if it works for you.

http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Zone-Diffuser-Single-Refill/dp/B003E71E06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409810479&sr=8-1&keywords=DAP+infuser

When you let him out of the room when you get home, do you do it quietly? Like just leash him up, take him out- no talking to him, no excited voice, etc? Lots of folks forget that we ramp our dogs up a lot of the time when they might stay calmer (I mean, he's a puppy and he's happy to see you- it's not like he's going to be chill) if you are calm and quiet. A friend with a dog that pee-d in excitement used to ignore his dog for the first half hour he was home. Tough to do, but it worked- that was also an older dog, so tough to do with a puppy. When I get home, I talk nice to mine (adult dogs) but quietly and they don't jump or get too nuts. They are super wiggly and such, but not jumping and barking like I see some people's dogs doing. Just a thought. Might help enough to stop you having to clean up pee as often. You'll have to get your Dad to greet him the way you do- consistency with puppies is incredibly important. Nice of him to help you out, though! Four hours or less is really awesome.

You do not need the tank liner. The heating pad goes on the outside along the BACK of your tank, not under. The goal is to heat the air. If you put it under you will cook the crabs, heating pads often get much too hot (even with reptiles you need to use a thermostat to keep it from overheating and burning your reptile).

For humidity, I am going to link you a thermometer/hydrometer that I use. You will be able to easily see what both are at with just a glance and then make adjustments as needed. You can find a good one here

If you want one that has probes that goes into the tank and the display is outside, check out this one. Make sure that the probes are out of reach of the crabs, but as close to ground level in the tank as possible.



As for keeping humidity up, moss is a great option. You can mix it into your sand, place piles of it on top of the sand, or use a suction cup shower caddy on the glass and fill it up with the moss. Specifically, you want sphagnum moss which you can find in reptile sections. You can mist it and it will stay wet for a few days. Another thing you can add are bubblers, the same kind you would use in an aquarium. Adding them to your pools creates water movement which will not only increase humidity but attract your crabs to the water and deliver oxygen into the tank. With the proper substrate mixture and the heating pad, you should meet the parameters you need. But sometimes it just doesn't happen, and then you can try adding moss and/or bubblers. I have both and my humidity stays perfect.
You're awesome for getting started on their new stuff right away. They are such a rewarding pet, and I bet you will notice a huge difference in their activity once you have it all set up!

First time seeing Fakespot, but you’re comparing Embark’s Breed & Health test to Wisdom Panel’s Breed test— when you look at the Fakespot score for the WP B&H, it gets a C with only a few reviews.

I also checked ReviewMeta to get a better idea of why the sites think Embark’s reviews are fake and, based on just that, I think the rating is unfair. The unverified purchases can be explained by Embark having lots of sales through their website or people receiving it as a gift; there is only 1 review they flagged as being incentivized out of 590, and it gave the product a 1.0; the “reviewer ease” score just means people who reviewed the product rate stuff 0.1 points higher than people who didn’t which, though it says that’s unnatural, I’m willing to overlook. The only one that stands out to me is “reviewer participation”— most reviewers have posted less than 15 total reviews on Amazon— but even that, I can overlook. If the product is overwhelmingly impressive, people are more likely to rate it. I think people also just like sharing their results; I plan to write a review once I get my dog’s back even though I rarely write reviews.

What makes me think that Embark’s reviews are genuine are the word count comparison and phrase repetition scores. Fake reviews tend to be short and repetitive, and Embark’s are anything but. The only things that tripped the review sites’ detectors were that the reviews were overwhelmingly positive and 35% from unverified purchasers, which both could just mean that people liked the product and were excited to share their results regardless of where they purchased it.

I actually barely looked at Amazon when deciding between Embark and Wisdom Panel. There are a bunch of articles out there comparing the two and nearly all of them say Embark seems more accurate or gives more detail, has a better user interface, and has better customer service.

It can be very difficult to guess accurately from appearance! Although I see why that is your guess.

If you are very curious and have some disposable income, you could try one of these genetic testing kits for dogs: https://www.amazon.com/Wisdom-Identification-Canine-Genetic-Ancestry/dp/B01EHX2BH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550434658&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+genetic They are pretty easy to use and reasonably accurate. If your dog has a very mixed genetic background (ie even her grandparents were all mixed breeds) it will not be able to tell you very well what all the different breeds are, but in most situations it will at least have some relatively close guesses. As long as you know it's mostly for fun and curiosity, the kits are easy to use and interesting.

Very pretty dog, I hope you have a long and happy friendship!

If he's not eating you must force-feed him. Use critical care. If you don't have that, put pellets in water until you make a thin enough mush you can put it in a syringe to feed him with. You can mix in some sugar free applesauce for taste.

Sounds like he's I'm GI stasis if he's not eating and this is a critical emergency for rabbits. If he doesn't start eating, you will have to see a vet. Stasis is treatable but can be deadly.

Info copied from Dinka:

However if truly the bunny is not eating it's best to go to the RABBIT SAVVY as soon as possible vs waiting as waiting can lead to full blown GI stasis. Try to explain to your dad how delicate their GI system is and how key it is to do something about it when appetite is relay down. If there is an issue waiting will result 9 out of 10 time in worse issues and more money spent on the vet....

Tell your dad to try the above suggestions and see if bunny will eat from his hand and ask him to really spend some time on the floor with the bunny, but if not helping go to the vet.

Also tell your dad to try the gas drops.

​

​

Some info on GI stasis below:

A bunny not eating is always very alarming and a medical emergency. A true loss of appetite can be the start of GI stasis. GI stasis can kills in 12 hours.

You need to find a RABBIT SAVVY vet (not just a any vet). Here you can find a list of rabbit savvy vets by state:

https://rabbit.org/vet-listings/

http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Category:United_States

https://www.chewy.com/petcentral/directory-of-veterinarians-for-exotic-small-mammals

​

To help your bunny you need a few things now (aside from the vet) -​

1. BABY gas drops - those are 100% safe and can be given anytime a tummy feels gassy (kind of hard vs squishy as usual). They really work and case save her life when you can't see a vet. Liquid simethicone is the ingredient in Baby or Infant gas drops, which are available over the counter in drugstores and many supermarkets. administer between .5 and 1cc of liquid simethicone orally, using a syringe without needle. These can really have save your bunny’s life.
   
   
2. You can get in any 24 hr CVS and they might help if it is just the start of gas pains. Tell your dad to try this.
   
   
3. Metacam - pain meds for bunnies. This is critical as you bunny is likely in pain and a bunny in pain will not eat just making things worse. Do you have any left over from his illness? 0.6 to 0.9 mg per kg is safe every 12 hrs.
   
   
4. Keep the bunny warm - provide a heating pack under the tummy or some warm water bottles next to him. Also a cozy fleece.
   
   
5. You must try to syringe feed bunny if he is not eating - mix some of his usual pellets with water until liquidy/pasty and slowly feed through a syringe every two hours. If you have a blender you can also mix in some fresh herbs. You can put a touch of banana of the tip of the syringe. You can even mix in a touch of banana or some no-sugar added baby food baby food. If you have Critical Care food even better, but if not pellet paste will work in the short term.
   
   
6. Also provide water through a syringe the same way. You can also steep some mint and offer that instead of water or add a touch of no sugar added juice to the water to encourage more drinking (use a bowl vs bottle).
   
   
7. Keep handfeeding veggies and hay.
   
   
8. Offer fresh herbs - dill (has great gut mobility portieres), cilantro, oregano, mint, basil, parsley - these have a strong aroma and can help stimulate bunny appetite and get him to eat more. Rinse them and give them wet for extra hydration.
   
   
9. Try tummy massage, see here for how to do it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbyC6CWbm5M
   
   ​
   
   These videos will help you:
   
   https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/9nz8mn/snowy_loves_his_foodand_his_meds/ - how to give meds so bunnies don't mind
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iGZVYVm5Bg - how to syringe feed (put a bit of something sweet like banana on the tip to get bun to like it more)
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QW0Taz0MFWE - more on how to syringe feed.
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0dil7iQQCU - how to syringe feed in a less stressful way (more effort but will work better sometimes)
   
   ​
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDyqWvjEYiI - GI stasis treatment
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1fPKtW5n5R0 - GI stasis treatment
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbyC6CWbm5M - How to Help a Rabbit with Gas Pain

I got my Aussie fixed about a month ago, and it wasn't the greatest experience. He ripped open his stitches right after he woke up (this really didn't surprise me at all) so he was stuck with the cone of shame for a week and a TON of bruising down there.

If your dog has to wear a cone, GET a Comfy Cone. I used the clear plastic cone the first night and my dog was terrified of going in the crate because the cone kept banging against the sides and making loud noises. It's kinda funny to think about but he was completely miserable and spent a good hour barking pathetically at the wall. He wasn't overly happy about the Comfy Cone, but his neurotic behavior went completely away compared to the plastic one.

He wouldn't go in the crate with any cone on, so my boyfriend and I set up the most awesome floor bed ever (complete with memory foam mattress pad!) and we had a fun week of sleepovers on the floor since he couldn't jump anywhere and wouldn't sleep in the crate. I left his cone on while he was sleeping and while no one was home, but I took it off when someone was around to watch him. We had to do a combination of calming pills + leaving him in the bathroom when we left so he wouldn't jump on anything and wouldn't go crazy. If your dog likes to lick things, be really vigilant in watching him without the cone for the first few days.

I don't know much about small dogs so I have no idea about the energy levels of Yorkies, but Aussies are very high energy breeds and once he started feeling better (about 2-3 days after he seemed back to normal), he was a huge hassle to keep under control. We have another dog so they had a strict no playing policy for a week since their idea of playing usually involves jumping on each other, the furniture, and running madly through the house. We did lots of on leash walks :)

He should be back to normal in a week. He'll probably be feeling better way before then, but a week is a safe amount of time to wait before going back to normal activities. I was maybe a little too cautious, but my pup was miserable and I definitely didn't want the incision to reopen so he'd have more time with the cone!

I'm interested in what you've heard about Greenies (I don't use them with my dogs, but my family used them with our dogs growing up without issues). The only things I've read had to do with obstruction (dogs wolfing down and not chewing properly), and I'm pretty sure Greenies changed their formula after that debacle to make them more digestible so that they would be safer.

​

That being said, my dogs are a fan of nylabones that have the nubs on them (as they chew, the nubs help brush their teeth). Just make sure if your dog gets to the point where they are tearing it apart, that you throw it out. You don't want your dog actually eating it. Another recent addition for us has been Starmark's Everlasting Dental Treats (like these). You can give them to your dog as a treat, but we give them to our dogs in a Bento Ball because it takes them foreverrrr to eat them from that. I think they also fit Wheelers. Not sure of other products.

Separation anxiety is a big problem in a lot of dogs, and needs to be addressed quickly. That being said, don't expect your dog to change overnight. Here's some of the techniques that worked wonders for my dog.

The most important thing to address is how you leave your house, and how you come back. One time when you're headed out, write down everything you do before you leave: pick up your keys, put on your shoes, open your door, whatever. Chances are you have some kind of ritual, and your dog has made the connection between these actions and you leaving. Break the connection by doing all the actions on your list repeatedly without leaving. I spent hours fiddling with my door locks, putting my shoes on and off, and grabbing various items around my house, until my dog learned that these things do not necessarily mean that I'm leaving.

Equally important: you don't want him to think of your return to the house as a special time. You will need to leave your house for short periods of time (say about 10 seconds), and when you go back in, your response should depend on what he does. If by the time you walk back in, he made it to the door and/or started crying, ignore him. Look up and away. If he tries to force himself into your field of view, turn around. Don't give him the slightest bit of attention. Eventually, he will give up, lie down, or do some other relaxed behavior. The moment he does that, praise him! Feel free to offer a treat, and once he understands he did something right, leave the house again. You will keep this up until he stops coming to the door and/or crying. When you can leave the house for a few seconds without him getting anxious, you no longer have to ignore him. Don't praise him too much either, just acknowledge his existence and get on with your day. Then, you should start leaving him alone for longer periods of time (again, ignoring him if he's anxious, slight praise if he's not). From my personal experience, once you can stand outside for about 5 minutes without your dog reacting, you're good to go.

It may take a long time before his behavior improves significantly, but there are some ways to make it easier. Exercise is very important. If your tire your dog out before you leave, he literally won't have the energy to destroy your house. Try teaching him to fetch, and throw a ball at him for half an hour in the morning. Keep in mind that this works hand in hand with training, as a dogs energy returns quickly. That being said, a tired dog is much easier to train then a hyper one.

Finally, there are products that aid (again, hand in hand with training) anxious dogs. My favorite is called D.A.P. (dog appeasement pheromone). It's a pheromone that comes from a nursing dog, and has been proven to calm dogs with anxiety. It's available as an diffuser, and a scented collar. I recommend using both concurrently.
That's all I can think of now. I'm currently at work and writing this on an iPhone, so I'll edit it/ add anything I can think of once I get home in a few hours.

EDIT: for clarity. Also, so i can link some examples of DAP Products

Diffuser

Collar

Don't force her into the crate. That will only make the fear worse. If you need to leave, give lots and lots of high value treats, and a stuffed toy frozen with something high value.

Is she still scared of the crate if you move it to a different room? Sometimes this can sort of reset something for a dog.

I would make most of the good things in her life happen in the crate. Put her meals in the crate, put a Kong with yummy goodness in the crate. Leave the door open until she is willingly going in and not running right back out when given treats. Look into crate games, those are helpful too.

I would also recommend dtap collars, the adaptl ones are best. They also make a scent diffuser you can put next to the crate. these do take about 30 days to kick in. Other calming aids can also be helpful, I've had the best luck with rescue remedy. Some dogs also react very well to thunder vests. Once your dog is calmer in general you could potentially start working on desensitization to thunder/loud noises.

If you're American, expect tomorrow (and potentially tonight and the rest of the week depending on local fireworks laws) to be rough as well.

The excessive thirst (waking you up in the middle of the night to refill the bowl) makes me think there might be a medical issue going on. I would take him to the vet to make sure there aren't any issues going inside that are making him act out.

If there aren't any medical issues, your vet can help you decide whether medication is appropriate to help treat the anxiety. There are options for everyday medication, and for use on an as-needed basis. Some regular vets prescribe medication for anxiety, and some do not - so, don't assume you have to go to a behavioralist, which is expensive and therefore turns some people off.

If you do go to the medication route, I would suggest looking into the Pet Prescription Drug Card Program. It is free, and actually can save you some money. There is a link to price out the cost of the meds for different pharmacies near you, so you can see which are cheapest. Your vet may expect you to fill the Rx at their office, but you can usually request a written Rx (depends on the state). There are also programs at places like Walgreens where you pay an annual fee, and then discounted medication.

Other techniques you could try: Canine Lullabies, a DAP diffusor, an x-pen to contain him to an area that he can't scratch up (ie not near a door) if you don't want to go the crate route), a Thundershirt, or daycare.

You haven't failed your dog. If you had, you would have thought "oh well, his anxiety will go away on its own!" or just ignored the anxiety altogether. The fact that you have worked so hard thus far, and are trying to find more options means you care, and are willing to put in the work. It is also great that you recognize that dealing with anxiety requires management and techniques, and not a "fix". Sadly, there isn't one. But, you clearly know that and are willing to put in the effort to help your dog, and that right there is evidence that you aren't failing your dog at all!

I'm in a similar boat (except I've got more advance notice) and have been finding the Digital Dog Training Textbook linked-to in the sidebar to be invaluable. Highly recommend. It's a little oddly laid out and it repeats itself itself but—as it says—you're really training yourself how to train the pup, so the reinforcement works (at least for me).

Their shopping list (oddly-formatted, watch out) includes:

• At least six chewtoys to stuff with kibble and treats (The Kong Company’s Kong and Biscuit Ball, Premier’s Squirrel Dude and Football, and sterilized long bones^† are the best.)
  
• Water bowl (Only buy your pup a food bowl once he is socialized, well-trained, and has impeccable household manners.)
  
• Dog food (dry kibble) During his first weeks at home, make sure your puppy receives all food stuffed in chewtoys, or handfed as rewards for socialization and training.
  
• Freeze-dried liver for men, strangers, and children to win your puppy's confidence and as rewards for housetraining
  
  (All links non-affiliate, just tryna be helpful :)
  
  Also, I saw this recommended somewhere. I have used a similar product for our cats and it's fucking magic, so if you're concerned your pup might be stressed, I highly recommend.
  
  ^† above, /u/caffeinatedlackey recommends against these until older

I would line the floor pans with more fleece. One layer will be fine if they aren't heavy chewers. This gives them extra cushion on their feet and makes the whole cage a cozy place to nap.

If you do this, I'd also suggest a slab of some sort. I use countertop samples, but slabs of granite etc. are easy to purchase at a Home Depot or other DIY type store. This will provide a solid, cool surface to lounge on as well as keep the fleece anchored in that corner.

Tunnels! My ratties love their plastic, pvc, and cardboard tunnels. An alternative would be to use an empty tube of Quaker oats and punch out the bottom. Just throw them away after a few days to avoid grossness.

Scrap the wheel. If you can, try to get a solid plastic wheel without any wire. The wire wheels can catch their toes, tails, etc. They're also harsh on the bottoms of their feet.

Hammocks and hanging fleece tubes of all kinds are highly recommended. To name a few:

Pirate Hammock - $14.32

Pyramid Hammock - $10.21

Simple Hanging Tunnel - $7.00

Parrot toys and ladders also work well, just be sure they aren't made of pine. Pine is toxic to rats. Other types of "Soft Wood" are also harmful (softwood trees are cedar, Douglas fir, juniper, pine, redwood, spruce, and yew). Products and tree branches made of these are not safe to use in the cage.

Especially for young rats, it's important to let them climb. A thick rope, such as this parrot perch are excellent climbing toys. The clips attach firmly to any wall of the cage.

You can get as creative or as simple as you like!

See also: "The Grotto"

Vets don't provide the best equipment when it comes to that, but I really recommend the cloud collar that is around 15 bucks. A lot of dogs like that collar because their sight isn't inhibited.

Could you do gauze pad soaked in Epsom salt and water and quickly tape it around him? If not, get a doggy diaper, place the cloth in there, and put it on your dog. At that point, your only job is to keep him still as opposed to holding him down. You'll have to get a female diaper, but it would be fairly easy to put a cloth in there and place on your dog. You can get disposable diapers or a cloth diaper with disposable liners. You could even soak the liners/diapers in the solution as they are meant to hold liquid. Not sure how well that would work, but I do suggest trying the diaper and cloth thing.

Is he getting antibiotics? If not, ask your vet about that. Cream, which is good, can be horrible to apply and antibiotics sometimes can replace the cream.

Edit: Also, whenever you apply anything, I highly suggest giving treats or something to occupy him. A kong with peanut butter works amazingly. Anything to associate that routine with something positive and fun for him.

I'm so sorry to read this. I wish I had something that would help. Just enjoy the time you have left with your precious pup and make her happy. It will be tough but worth it to know she felt comforted in her remaining time.

Edited to add: something which may make her more comfortable is a calming scent diffuser. Like this https://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Zone-Diffuser-Single-Refill/dp/B000J3HZWE

I would definitely get your temps and humidity sorted out as your highest priority. Especially if your heating pad isn't currently on a thermostat, it can be way too hot. When you get the thermostat for the heat pad, you should carefully peel the heat pad off the bottom of the tank (carefully because it can tear if you rip it off too hard) and sandwich the thermostat probe between the heat pad and the underside of the tank (so both heat pad and thermostat will be outside the tank, stuck to the bottom.

To monitor the temp/humidity in the enclosure, these digital thermos/hygros are much better than the analog ones: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Digital-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B06XY3X7P9 - they also have these at most PetSmarts/Petcos.

I see that someone in the ball pythons sub linked you to their getting started FAQ, so you should have all the info there you need about what the temps and humidity should be at. You can spray for humidity, but that causes large spikes and drops in the humidity levels and you can end up spraying 2-3x per day. More ideal since you're using cypress mulch bedding is just to mix some water right into the bedding. What I do is wait for my guy to go into one of the hides, then use a tupperware lid to block the entrance to the hide so he doesn't think my hand moving around the tank is a mouse and come out to eat, and mix some water into the bedding. You can pour a cup or so of water all over the bedding (maybe more since you have a 75 gal tank - I use a cup for my 40 gal) and use your hands to mix it all around. That will keep the humidity at a high level for much longer than spraying. You can also cover most of the screen top to keep the humidity from escaping, especially if you live in a drier climate. I live in Maine, so at this time of year humidity is a constant struggle. For now you can just cover most of the top screen with tin foil (leave some uncovered for ventilation). When you have time you can follow this tutorial to make your top screen even better at holding in humidity: https://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?90187-Tank-Screen-Top-Foil-Treatment-Tutorial but that's not a priority at the moment.

Keep asking questions! Even though you have some more to do to make your setup ideal for him, I can tell you care so much about giving him a good life <3

Don't despair! Here are a couple things to consider.

Dogs go through a fear and anxiety stage somewhere between 6 and 14 months. This phase can last anywhere from a few weeks to a few months and it's characterized by a timid or anxious response to scary new things like thunder. It's perfectly possible your dog will outgrow this as she becomes a more confident and adult dog.

In the meantime, I don't think you're doing anything wrong by taking her out and comforting her during the storms. If you want to take a more hands-off approach, here are some products you could consider:

A Thundershirt is a sort of sweater that you can put on your dog if thunderstorms seem to be on the horizon. Something about the consistent pressure seems to have a calming effect on dogs. It's not a miracle worker but from my experience it can help.

Same goes for herbal solutions like Composure dog treats or Pet Rescue Remedy – both can help, but they're not silver bullets.

Lastly, when you leave her in her crate and a thunderstorm arrives, always make sure to leave a Kong or other very high-value treat in there with her. She definitely needs something to distract her from her anxiety.

One of my boys lost his top front teeth as well. They fell out on their own after a few days of difficulty eating (not sure how he broke them).

It took several weeks before the teeth were grown back in to a usable length. During that time, he was on a diet of omnivore power and herbivore powder. Basically mixed it around 1:1 ratio and added a couple drops of water to make an easy to eat paste. It worked super well; he continued to have tooth issues on and off for the rest of his life, and that mix was often an important part of his diet. The omnivore powder has to be through a vet (they may have it, or can order it for you).

You can try crushing some food as well; my boy was able to eat hard foods as long as they were small enough that he didn't need to use the front teeth to break it into bites! Potentially soaking his regular food in water (or even a low sodium broth) could work, but my boy didn't care for it.

Some meat, egg, bread, noodle, rice, vegetables are alright to help keep interest in food and weight up; fruits are kinda heavy on the sugar and moisture. Baby foods like "Brown rice and Turkey" are okay in moderation too, but probably not a good idea long term.

I highly recommend a scale to keep track of weight. I got this cheap scale. Weight loss is expected (a few grams), but too much more isn't good.

Best of luck.

Edit: added a little for the next time I copy and paste my comment :)

This is the one we used after we had our gsd spayed at 6 months. It worked really well. It was a lot more comfortable then the cone. Plus she was still able to get around without banging into everything and fit comfortably in her crate.

My mom has older dog that was doing the same thing on his back leg. What's hard is once there's a sore there the only want to lick it more. She ended put him in a cone and wrapping the leg. Thankfully once it was healed he finally left it alone.

Good luck! Stay strong! It will get better!

KONG Cloud E-Collar, Dog Collar, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0045Y1JGG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_5TQ.zbFE63ZJY

My bully Odin has the same problem, with varying degrees of intensity. https://i.imgur.com/IeOs8pt.jpg

I've tried snout soother, it's good for a temporary fix, but I'd say it's equivalent to really expensive Bag balm or udder cream. We have a weekly routine where I'll clean the crust off with a warm wash cloth which he seems to love, and follow up with some snout soother, which he's not the biggest fan of. It seems healthier, but never really goes away fully.

I've talked to his vet about it as well, she said there's not much I can do, because he usually immediately licks anything off, when I put it on. She told me some bully's will just have the dry nose, and keep up our weekly routine.

Edit: just adding, that even though I said I feel like Snout Soother is an expensive lotion, I still continue to buy it. It seems to help, and that's ok with me. It usually lasts a long time.

They've finally started to modify collars for post-surgery, I used this Kong collar, but make sure she has the right size. Pet stores near me sell them, or similar styled ones. Can you call your vet and discuss the howling, possibly a trial run of pain meds to see if it helps - honestly I'm careful not to assume that my dog letting me touch something means it doesn't hurt, the pain may be further in, or i may not be applying the right pressure. If the medication helps, then you know there was pain, potentially inflammation, and as you wean her off them ensure the howling doesn't return. Aftercare should be a part of her surgery - when are you due for a wound check? Ideally you could trial the meds and discuss results then.

Sorry for all that - it comes down to, is she eating well, drinking well? For the howling call your vet and see if a trial of pain meds is possible, or if they think it's behavioural. Does one of the nurses know if she was howling in the kennels? Given she is also limited with walks and such at the moment that may play a part. Either way, call the vet, discuss eating and drinking habits and make sure you feel right about their response. And check your check up date :)

As far as the noise issue... my dog is also afraid of noises. I didn't realize this was part of her separation anxiety. She's torn up doors/door knobs,etc. I hired a dog walker (not what I'm suggesting for you) and she noticed that it seems to be noises that scare my dog. It makes me feel like an idiot for not noticing. I tripped over my flip flop on a walk last week - it scared my dog and her teeth chattered and she wouldn't come near me for a bit. So I purchased this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006SFUEF2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 white noise machine. I ordered this particular type only because it was relatively inexpensive. I actually got two - one for upstairs and one for down, but I can turn the volume way up on the one downstairs and it can be heard upstairs as well. I only got it yesterday but so far it is like I've drugged her. She slept all night long, and as I type, she's asleep on my couch instead of pacing around like a nervous nelly. She hasn't even barked at my neighbors when they walked outside with their dog. That in and of itself is amazing.

Your dog does seem to have confidence issues. I don't know what to do about the rest. You do not seem like a bad person. I have worked and worked with my dog to give her a home she feels safe in, and when she doesn't, it hurts. We can't fix everything.

Also, my dog walker says that she has had success with DAP: http://www.amazon.com/Comfort-Zone-Diffuser-Single-Refill/dp/B003E71E06/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1371901678&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=DAP
Which is supposed to calm dogs. I'm skeptical, even though my dog trainer from two years ago that trains police dogs and fixes 'ruined' dogs also suggested. It's a pheromone. I haven't tried it, but I think I will. THese solutions all take money.

My dog barks and barks at people when she wants attention. I did not realize this for the longest time. (I feel kind of dumb admitting this.) I brought a new guy i was seeing over to the house. She barked at him, and he said "Is she going to bite me?" and only 1/2 joking I said "I don't know". He stayed with me for 3 days (he lives in another state) and the next day I had to work. She barked at him until he sat on the ground and then they became friends. Likewise, my sister and her family came over and my dog barked at my brother-in-law and he looked at her and said "What ARE you barking at???" and she huffed and turned around and ran up to my nephew and barked at him so he said the same thing and then she ran to my side and lied down. I don't know that any of this is helpful. But it is all a process.

Try baby food as suggested mine only like turkey but some prefer chicken. Also look in to getting her some rescue remedy, its great for depressed pets. It really helped my older ferret when his cage mate passed suddenly. It's a hard time try to give extra love and anything else she likes, maybe a new toy or two? Good luck.

Thank you for rescuing this beautiful pupper.

If you really want to know what breed(s) she is, the best thing to do would be to run a DNA test. Vets can only guess at the breed. Knowing the breed is also helpful in identifying possible hereditary diseases.

Also, considering her temperament and your lack of experience with pets, I highly recommend signing up for some training courses. Unwanted behaviors in dogs can get out of control quickly, especially if one does not know how to counter those behaviors correctly. It is a small investment up front that will greatly benefit the dog and your family in the long run.

Best of luck!

To Boomer: Grrr Woof Aroo!

Oh wow, I would not have guessed she was that big!

I still see JRT and Chihuahua in her shape, expression and color... I honestly don't see many other obvious characteristics she might've gotten from whatever gave her the size. Her snout looks a touch wider than a JRT or Chi's... maybe there's a touch of Boston Terrier or something in there that's rounding out her skull some and widening the muzzle a bit?

Have you thought about getting a Wisdom Panel done for her? I'm curious to know what else is in there!

p.s. this is completely unsolicited feedback, but I think she looked like she was in great condition at 17lbs :)

I would definitely consider other options first.

1. Try the Thundershirt, I'd just try to find somewhere that you can return it in case it doesn't help.
   
2. As mentioned by another commenter below, look into CBD - I've heard many good things about it's effectiveness in treating anxiety in pets.
   
3. Another natural option you could try is this spray: https://www.amazon.com/Bach-Rescue-Remedy-Pet-10/dp/B0030NWZUC
   
4. And finally, another option would be to reach out to an animal behaviourist. Google "animal behaviourist + (your city)____". It'll definitely be more expensive than the medicines, but it would be a more permanent solution as they typically help both the pet and the owner overcome their challenges.
   
   Good luck and sorry about your father.

You'll be surprised how much she'd use a wheel, even if you are playing with her a lot during the day :) I think it's really important that they are able to get exercise at night, since they are nocturnal... I think my Penelope probably runs for an hour a night, and her wheel is covered in poop in the morning- honestly, she goes buck wild for that thing!

I would really recommend it, even if you are playing with her tons during the day :)

This is another one that I've heard is good for hedgehogs!

You can always try the enzymatic toothpaste route! My cats love the chicken flavor, it's their favorite. You do have to work up to it though. Just let them get used to licking it off your finger, then you dabbing it on their lips, then you putting it on their front teeth, etc. until you're able to stick your finger on their back molars. It may take a few weeks or a month or two but my cats get excited about it now- they see it like an additional treat! Haha, joke's on them, I'm brushing their teeth.

This one is actually my dog's favorite toy. I don't even put the treats in it, she just likes to play with the toy. She's had it for, like, 4 years and it's still in really good shape. I've tried a few of their toys, and this one and the pickle pocket have been the two best. (The advantage of the pickle pocket is that most dog treats work in it--you don't have to buy Starmark's treats.)

Aww, the poor little girl! My baby Macey just had 5 different spots removed on Monday, a few being mast cell tumors and some melanomas. She's recovering well though :)

Not sure if you've heard of them before but I can't recommend enough getting a "Comfy Cone" for her recovery. Macey has been through several surgeries during her life and it makes her SO much more comfortable than the plastic style cones.

Good luck to Zinnia, and wishing her a quick recovery!

Definitely looks like there's pit bull, past that I'm not sure. She's a real cutie!

As a heads up, if you're really curious, you could get one of those DNA tests done with a swab. Wisdom Panel is a popular one, and people like to share the results over at /r/doggydna. :)

I used this natural anxiety medication with one of my dogs when I was dealing with severe separation anxiety. It was called Rescue Remedy. http://www.amazon.com/Bach-Pet-Rescue-Remedy-1-Count/dp/B0030NWZUC At first I was told that he would need to be put on valium and like you said I was just not comfortable giving him it. However as soon as we started using this things changed dramatically. I have no more issues with anxiety;the drops don't completely knock the dog out letting whatever is causing the anxiety go on while their sleeping but it just calms them down to the point that they are relaxed but not asleep. I think that was the best thing about it, is that my dog eventually learnt (as was eased him off of it) that he was able to control his own anxiety and that he could live through it instead of giving him the meds to avoid it. I'm not sure if that helps but if you want to ask anything let me know.

Looks like an adorable dog mixed with a cute dog mixed with a perfect doggo. 12/10.

That being said, it looks like there is definitely some dachshund in there. My wife and I did a Wisdom Panel on our little mix. It gave us some insight!