Reddit mentions: The best dog leashes

Ohhhh boy! You asked about my dog. You don't even know the excited response you're about to get! Hahaha. I love talking dog stuff.

Yes, he is a Border Collie (100%, ABCA registered, the whole deal.) His name is Murphy and he's about 96% insanity at all times of my life, but in a great way (for me and my lifestyle.) I've had him since he was a wee little hellion, and we've worked really hard together to get to where he is today. Even with all that, there's still a lot of room for improvement for both of us, though.

I love my dog and I think that Border Collies are a fantastically rewarding breed, even for people who don't need a working dog, so I'm always happy to share my experiences! But just know that I'm not a professional dog trainer, so if you think I'm wrong or stupid, you just might be right!

And yes, it sounds like you're dealing with a common problem that BC owners deal with. The working dog brain + unending energy combo is a huge handful, and can really be too much for a lot of people's lifestyles. I live in an apartment, so I obviously don't have any sheep or goats for him to be out in a field with all day, but I'm very active with him. And by "very active" I don't mean he get's long walks or runs every day. I mean he gets time dedicated to tiring him out and enriching his dog life as often as I can give it. This basically translates to at least an hour or so each day of "play" time with him. (Seriously, every day. If he misses out on a day, he starts acting like a brat and throws fits in the cereal aisle.) If you try to cool your dog's crazy with physical activity alone, you're just going to become a really great athlete and have a dog that's still ready to run 10 more miles every single time. BC's (and really lots of other high energy dogs) need brain games in combination with physical activity. I've posted in other threads before about some of the games we do; the one I recommend most is our version of Hide & Seek. This is great to work on getting the dog to trust you and listen to you, and it's another way to keep her busy when you wouldn't normally think you have time to play with her.

• Start by sending your dog to a designated and consistent spot. I use his kennel because he knows it by name really well and he enjoys waiting there. Plus I can hear from another room if he's in it or leaves it, which is handy when you want to be lazy and not get up.
  
• Have the dog wait at the designated spot while you hide a toy (or a treat if your dog is more food motivated. Mine doesn't give half a sh!t about food, so toys and sticks get hidden at our house.)
  
• You go back to your designated spot (mine is my desk because I spend a lot of time working at a computer when I'm home.) From your spot, give your <calm dog who's waiting for direction> the "Go find it!" command.
  
• Encourage her to keep looking if she acts like she's given up. Now that we've been doing this for a while, Murphy will look on his own for about 20 minutes before coming back to make sure there's really something to find. He has no idea how his nose works though, so your dog might be quicker.
  
• Once she's found it, decide what you want her to do and teach her. I like for Murphy to sneak into my room, and drop slobbery sticks and tennis balls into my lap while I'm at my computer. Then he's supposed to sit there and look all proud and expectant while I try to think of a new place to hide this crap.
  
• Repeat as many times as you want, or as many times as your dog can handle without getting frustrated/obsessed.
  
• Give them an "all done" gesture so they know play time is officially over and they can whine about it.
  
  Another thing I would recommend is working consistently with leash obedience. This is something you really have to be consistent with. I slacked off when school was taking up more time than I would have liked, and I saw a definite backslide in his behavior in public and around other dogs/people in general.
  
  I'm not sure how large your dog is (since she's a mix and BCs size vary anyway) but Murphy weighs about 45-50 lbs depending on how windy it is. He can really pull and that pisses me off when I'm trying to hold a leash. The best leash decision I ever made was to switch over to using a harness and a leash similar to this one. We walk a lot in areas that have serious car traffic as well as quiet streets and even quieter trails. This thing gives me the option of not holding the leash at all when I feel comfortable with what's around, or I can keep it short and close to me if I'm worrying about what he could get into. It also serves as extra support and keeps me from losing the leash if he decides to take a sudden lunge after something. And so far ::knock on wood:: he's never pulled me down anything or drug me across a field or any of the other horrific visions I had when I looked at the leash on the Target clearance rack. I just feel a lot more secure with it and when he hip-hops into the car, I can keep the belt on and just clip/unclip when he gets in and out. It's handy.
  
  I've had to work a lot with him over the last year or so on jumping up on people walking by. He's still far from perfect, but it was bearable and by the end of our trip, he was noticeably more calm and obedient when strangers passed us on the trails. The issue we're still really having trouble with is other dogs. He wants to be everyone's bestie and if there's a dog within eyesight (even if it's across a lake) he will pull and whine and do everything he can to get closer to that dog. He also has this intense focus, so even if the dog goes away (up over a hill, or around the corner, or leaves the park across the lake) he still has a determination to get to the last place he saw the other dog, which can be really obnoxious.
  
  Someone gave me the advice of trying to be more exciting to your dog than whatever thing is causing their bad behavior. So with Murphy I carry a stick and when he starts acting like a little sh!t because he can see another dog, I say "Hey Murphy look, you want it? You want it? Ok, sit down." and that will sometimes bring his attention back to me. It's been a great way to tear his concentration away from things I don't want him focusing on.
  
  TLDR: Consistency, limited exposure, and keeping your dog engaged are your best friends. You really do have to work on things a little at a time for a long time and you'll start to see glorious and dramatic behavior changes. Slacking off with training will bring backslides and not bothering to train at all will create bad habits that you'll have to work on training out. Border Collies also seem to be motivated by weird stuff (aka not food) and are often very sensitive to negative feedback, so try focusing on what your dog does right and avoid the urges to slap noses/butts or scream "NO" when she see's the full moon and morphs into an evil creature of speed and intelligence.

Here's some of the gear I bought:

hands free leash

Boots + socks

Collapseable Bowls

pack and harness

That's the only hands free leash I've ever tried but it's worked well. I'd recommend it.

Boots - my dog got used to them after a really funny 1-5 min adjustment period every time I put them on. The downside to the boots was they'd fall off and if the dog was heeling we'd have to back track to find the boots. So now I only use them on sharp rocky terrain or grated metal stairs/bridges. Definitely nice to have the piece of mind that if your pup cuts his foot you can throw them on and protect his feet.

Collapseable bowls - for short trips these are great. Using daily for months they became a little gross, leaky and some threads started coming undone. Now we just pack out cheap Tupperware bowls that I have around the house.

Pack and harness -. I have mixed feelings on this one. I actually went through 3 harnesses. Mostly because my pup would chew them while wearing them at first. Not the fault of the gear (and he no longer does it) Luckily Ruffwear was great to deal with and never made me pay full price for a replacement. Though on one harness I did get some wear and tear where the leash attaches. He also got a little raw in his front armpits where the straps went around his chest. We added some moleskin to the straps and that seemed to help.

Overall I'm happy with the pack, but if I were to do it again I'd strongly consider getting a Groundbird Custom Pack. I saw a handful on the trail and they looked great and I wonder if the custom fit might have helped with the rawness in the armpits. Also the same price as the Ruffwear pack.

>Also, how did you train the pup that pack=good trail behavior?

Reinforcement mainly. When we hiked we kept moving, no playing, no picking up sticks (Mac loves sticks so much they called him LumberMac on the trail). For breaks and at the end of day the pack comes off and he's free to be a pet instead of a trail dog. :). And nowadays he gets super excited everytime he sees the pack come out.

Also, another thing I couldn't find details on was puppy claws on inflatable sleeping pads. My dog walked on many of the most popular pads during our hike and none popped, so that's good to know.

Hiking the Appalachian Trail is about as demanding on gear as it gets, so these were pretty extreme circumstances.

If you're planning a weekend hike vs a long distance hike I'd probably give you different sets of advice, but the #1 piece of advice is to always put your pup's well being first. Remember they'll run themselves into the ground trying to keep up with you.

Feel free to ask any questions you have. I'm happy to help puppies become trail dogs. ( :

If you get an actual bike leash (I use this one, but there's plenty of other options: Petego Cycleash Universal Dog Bike Leash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BL7SPIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WZa1AbR8Z09WK) it's not bad at all. It attaches to your center of gravity and has an elastic, so sudden movements are dampened quite a bit.

My 100lb dog is a total weenie so he was worried about the bike at first (and would pull away) but now he loves it. I did start him off with a prong collar because I didn't want him pulling, but once we both got the hang of it I switched to a harness. Obviously you'll want to keep an eye on his speed and be careful not to pull him along, especially if you use a prong collar, but that's not very difficult as they can easily stay in your peripheral vision.

Two things: my dog has a pretty solid "leave it" which helps when we pass interesting things like barking dogs. Also, I keep a regular nylon leash attached to his collar and hold it by hand so that a) I can get him back on track with a tug, if I need to, and b) I can unclip him from the bike leash and let him pee/poop as needed. It's also a safety net should I fall off, but be careful not to wrap it around your hand or anything in case you need to let go quickly.

Generally speaking, once dogs get into running mode (if that's their cup of tea) they're pretty happy to just go. Distractions are usually minimized compared to a slow walk. Note: the best speed for their joints is a steady trot, but realistically, sometimes only a gallop will do ;)

It's such a blast watching them run as much as they want. You can just see the bliss the entire time.

Edit: one more thing. Do be sure to start off slowly (maybe 5-10 minutes trips in the beginning, depending on speed and temperatures) so they don't get sick or hurt, particularly with older or out of shape dogs. Many dogs will go way past their limits just trying to keep up or please you.

I love running canicross style! I'm aware I'm in the minority on the sub, but I have actively trained my dogs to pull when we run - well, my second dog anyway - my first trained me to run this way. He simply adores pulling - and I love it too, we have an absolute blast when we're out together. You're right, some dogs just really love it, and kind of need it - it's an extra layer of mental stimulation and physical effort, and a different sensation to what they're used to.
We've got a section on pulling in the wiki, may be worth a look :)

As for your query - I've been through quite a bit of gear over the years, and this is my current waist belt / lead set up. The belt is super wide, nicely padded neoprene, and comes with a bungee lead LINK HERE! I ditched the lead itself as I'm not really keen on the bungee leads - I don't like the loss of feel or control that comes with a stretchy lead, and I like to feel the lead tight. I actually still have the lead - PM me if you want it, and I'll post it on. It's a decent length, well made, reflective stitching and strong hardware - if you're into bungees it's pretty good.

With regards the harness, it really depends on your dog and his body type. I wrote about this in another thread a while back, here's a copy of that comment:

Which harness you choose depends very much on your dog. I have two very different dogs, and found that they needed different styles of harness.
Tom is a Lurcher - he's a big lad in terms of height and weight, but he's also almost two-dimensional. Any harness that crosses over his chest and between his front legs just doesn't work - there's not enough space there. He wears a working dog type harness - The Julius K9 IDC Powerharness. As you can see, it has no straps running between his legs, so no rubbing on his thin Lurcher skin.
On the other hand, Fred is a short, stocky Staffie cross - he's not got much neck, so this harness just didn't work for him as it was putting pressure on his throat. I use a cross-back type harness with him (I actually custom made it myself, as he's got a bit of an awkward body, and a few other issues....).
It's worth checking out our Gear We Love page for brand recommendations.

Hope this is all useful - let us know how it goes, and of course there is a dog tax to pay on this sub - we need pictures!

Things you need to know about your husky:

• They are extremely intelligent, but not necessarily obedient. They are independent in nature, and can often be motivated by treats--unless the alternative is something they desire more.
  
• They are escape artists. If left to their own devices outside, they will dig, climb, squeeze, and then they will run. And run, and run--it's ingrained in their nature, so this will be almost impossible to correct. You can prevent this by keeping them entertained, which will also keep them from being destructive (boredom motivates them to destroy and explore). Also, never let them outside of a fenced in area without a leash. It's possible to train them to come when you call most of the time, but should they see a squirrel, cat, deer, anything they want to chase, their training goes out the window. Don't let them outside within fenced in areas without supervision.
  
• They are high-maintenance dogs and need a lot of exercise. Right now, walks and games of tug-of-war will suffice. When he gets older (<1 year), runs. If you're out of shape, get a bike, and ride together using the walkydog leash. My husky -loves- to swim. We swim and kayak together every weekend during the summer. Get creative with your exercise--hike, swim, try different training courses--they love the mental exercise and breaking out of routine!
  
• Get a [furminator] (http://www.amazon.com/FURminator-Long-Hair-deShedding-Large/dp/B0040QQ07C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342588841&sr=8-2&keywords=furminator) meant for long-haired dogs. Seriously. This will be one of your best investments. Other great investments that I've made have been [the Ruffwear life jacket] (http://www.amazon.com/Ruffwear-Float-Jacket-Currant-Medium/dp/B005OTYEMW/ref=sr_1_34?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1342588905&sr=1-34&keywords=life+jackets+for+dogs), [Plato's Salmon Strips treats] (http://www.amazon.com/Plato-Dog-Treats-Salmon-16-Ounce/dp/B000NVBVIQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1342588957&sr=1-1&keywords=Salmon+strips) (there is nothing Keno won't do for one of these, but they smell horrible--still worth it), [the walk dog leash] (http://www.amazon.com/Petego-Walky-Hands-Free-Bicycle-Leash/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_1) for a bike, and [Kyjen's indestructible squeak toys] (http://www.amazon.com/Invincible-Gecko-4-Squeak-Blue/dp/B005CQARAA/ref=sr_1_25?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1342589219&sr=1-25&keywords=kyjen+dog+toys).
  
  Your puppy is disgustingly adorable. Seriously one of the cutest little holy terrors I've ever seen (and I say this fondly, because my adorable husky was a monster as a puppy). I hope you form a bond as strong as mine and Keno's, and that you enrich each other's lives!

Fun! I'll let you know some of my dog gear, but your preferences and dog will be different.

I usually bring three different leashes with me, depending a little on where I'm going. She can't really be off leash, so I take a 30 ft line to give her space to wander or splash in the river on a break. If the trail is too busy or the hike is a pretty short one, this often gets left behind or never used.

A basic 15 ft leash is perfect for hiking with her. It gives her a bit more space, but isn't long enough to cause much trouble getting wrapped around things, and I can easily pull her closer to me when I need. I tied a couple knots in it for easier grabbing and holding at different lengths. I can also use a locking carabiner (I always have a couple on hand) to attach the handle to my backpack for hands-free.

I also love my Tuff Mutt hands-free waist leash. It has two handles if I need to hold her closer, and I really like the bungee. The only downside is that it's a bit heavy for a leash, but I find it's worth the weight, and I'm almost always just doing day hikes so it's fine. I don't know really know how it compares to other hands-free leashes though since it's the only one I've used.

I recently got a Ruffwear Front Range harness for hikes. It is the only harness I've been able to put on her, so I really can't compare much. Seems to fit her comfortably and works well as a back-clip harness. I haven't been able to use it as a front-clip without it sliding around too much. But I don't really need the front-clip when hiking, so I'm pretty pleased with it overall. If my dog wasn't so finicky about harnesses, I'd be trying other options though. You might prefer one with a handle, I've heard good things about the Ruffwear Webmaster.

I currently have an Outward Hound travel bowl for water, but I'm not a huge fan of it. My dog doesn't always drink all the water I pour, so then I've wasted water. And I either have to put a wet bowl back in my bag or clip to the outside and hear the annoying swish of it rubbing against the bag. It's not a big deal, and it works, but I'm eyeing one of these instead.

Happy hiking!

Well, I can provide a bit of info but also hope to get a few answers myself.

I have a 4(ish) year old, 50lb aussie/bc mix. I bought a walky dog system this spring:

http://www.amazon.com/Petego-Walky-Hands-Free-Bicycle-Leash/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1374676694&sr=8-1&keywords=walky+dog

and I am quite happy with it.

It is quite an advantage to have dog/leash tethered to your seat. Last weekend we were out for a ride/run and a fawn jumped out of the trees. Instead of having my arm ripped off or the bike pulled off the road, the combination of your weight on the seat and the good sized spring in the bar that allows the leash to flex kept us both under control. It is also good that the dog can't cut in front of the bike with this setup. The bar is a quick detach from the bracket so it is easy to deal with as well. Thumbs up on the product.

Now my related question. I have been unsure how far is too far for my Aussie to run. We were out for a couple of miles on the weekend and I think that is about the max without a good break at this point. I don't know know if more trips will increase range or not. So anyone been doing this long enough or have some data on how far a fit Aussie should be able to run? I would love to get up to 6-10 miles but heck, the dog has to run alongside. I am not sure that is reasonable?

For neighborhood walks I use pockets or sometimes my little cross-body purse for my cell phone and keys, and treats. Her poop bags are on the leash, I used to have this bag holder which is great because I could also have a handful of treats shoved in there without them falling out (the fabric fold vs metal eyelet keeps them in), but I made an oopsie and left it on the leash which I tossed in the back seat of the car with her and she chewed it open to get the treats. I want to order another though because it was super nice to know I'd always have treats with me just in case.

For hiking or longer training walks, or class I have this fanny pack which I LOVE because it has so many compartments. I can put poop bags, two or three different types of treats, my cell phone, keys, money/cards, water, snacks for me, and a collapsible water bowl, along with our favorite training toy which is a ball tug. It also has a look to attach the leash to so I can be hands free. I highly recommend it, even if you look like a big dork wearing it.

I'm glad you found the information helpful!

No, I do not think your dog is a good off-leash candidate. A dog whistle isn't cruel, but it is another thing you would have to teach her... and I suspect an off-leash recall to get her to not chase a small animal will probably never be effective. Many, many dogs do not have the ability to be walked off leash without potentially bolting after something small and furry, and it sounds like yours is one.

[Super long Flexi leashes like this one}(http://www.amazon.com/Explore-Retractable-26-Feet-Supports-110-Pound/dp/B005NK5DEU/ref=pd_sbs_petsupplies_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1T8RVZ40GZNRKNFFNPDP) can work well as a compromise between leashing and letting her run loose. A leash like that would allow her to run anywhere within a 26' of you, but prevent her from bolting.

And she's not being stubborn when she refuses to go outside. If she doesn't respond to "Yabbi, come on, outside," I'm not surprised at all. First, you talked to her in nearly a full sentence as though she is a human (she's not). Second, you gave her two commands (that I don't even know if she knows)- "come" and "outside."

If you want to teach "outside" as a command, sit her right inside the open door, hold up a tasty high-value treat, say "outside," and toss the treat out the door. Repeat this 5x/day, twice a day, for a week. Start to vary her starting position (closer or further from the door) and start practicing with the door closed. If she's toy motivated, you can substitute the treat by tossing a toy out, following her, and playing with it.

Eventually you'll start fading out the treats, but for now use them EVERY TIME you let her out. I can almost guarantee you she will reliably respond to "outside" by running to the door before too long.

Hell ya! Do it all the time!

Of course, this really depends on lots of things. Do you have a safe area (not too much traffic)? How stable are you in riding? How big and strong is the dog and how much do they pull?

I used to take my dog biking all the time (hold the leash in one hand and the handlebar in the other hand). He got old and couldn't run much, so I got a cargo bike and took him everywhere:

https://youtu.be/zEY7LmnY23E

Ollie passed away and we got another dog. She is a puppy and hates the cargo bike. She wants to run! She is now 2 years old and weighs 50 lbs (black lab mix). I now take her with my e-bike. Leash in one hand, the bike handle bar in the other hand. The e-bike is awesome because it has good acceleration. Sometimes she just zooms all of a sudden and I can keep up without tugging on the leash.

But I'm a strong rider. I can keep her in control while riding 20+ miles per hour on short bursts.

My girlfriend is not a strong bike rider. So we got her one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4

This ties to my girlfriend's bicycle seat post. It stretches out and holds the dog. She takes our dog for rides with this apparatus. Works pretty good! She gets to keep both hands on the handlebars.

I hope you have luck with the trainers. In the mean time, I noticed you said your SO is afraid to take him out because of his size. I have a reactive 80+ lb German Shepherd and I'm about a 115 lbs. I understand. A couple of things:

Do you have a secure, front clip harness you can use to control your dog? If not, I would suggest investing in one. It feels a lot more secure vs just using a collar that your dog can slip out of.

I recently started using two leashes to walk my GSD. I have a short bungie leash, like this, which I keep clipped to my hips. You can use a heavy duty carabiner attached to a belt or fanny pack.

Then, I have a second flat leash which has an extra handle at the base of the leash, like this, so I can get a really good grip on my GSD and pull him away if I absolutely have to. I keep the flat leash looped around my wrist, then looped around my thumb like this, close my hand into a fist around the leash and hold it tightly to my stomach.

This has increased my confidence ten fold because I know my dog cannot pull away from me if he's attached my hips, and I can still easily control him using the second handle on the flat leash. The second handle on the flash leash is a blessing for tight areas like hallways or stair wells in the apartment complex (Avoid tugging on his leash if its not necessary, this can make them more anxious).

Other tips:
---
Make sure you are playing with your dog inside the apartment as much as possible to reduce his stress, anxiety or tire him out. (Or take him the park and try to really tucker him out) Try to walk him at odd hours (like 5am, 12am) to reduce the chances you will run into things that scare him. This sucks, but it is very important that you avoid stressing him out as much as possible.

Practice your emergency exits. If you are in the hallway and see something scary, you can get away without your dog reacting and stressing out. Start in the apartment with his leash on, and practice saying "Lets go!" in a playful voice, do a u-turn, and playfully run the opposite direction. You might need to use your hands to get your dogs attention or use treats to lure him into a u-turn. You don't want to be tugging on your dog. You want your dog to think this is a fun and exciting game that is way better than facing and barking at whatever scary thing is at the end of the hall or sidewalk.

Instead of just feeding your dog cheese when he sees something scary, try turning it into a game of "Find it!". Again, start by practicing in your apartment, throw a treat a couple feet in front of you and tell your dog to "Find it!". You can start using this outside, when you don't see any distractions. Then, if your dog is far enough away to see a distraction but NOT REACT, you can try playing "Find it!" to distract them and reduce their stress. You can also use "Find it!" to get them to turn around, or throw treats at your feet so you can more easily get their attention.

Right now the goal is to avoid triggers as much as possible so if in doubt, do an emergency exit and try to get your dog out of the situation by doing a playful "Let's go!". You can play "Find it!" when you are far enough away. If your dog notices a trigger but is far enough away that he isn't reacting yet, try playing "Find it!" to distract your dog from the trigger. Always try to set him up for success, don't do it if you know he's gonna do bonkers.

Also, experiment with high value treats or rewards. Does he have a chew bone he really loves? Try bringing on the walk to distract him. Try really smelly, wet treats like hot dogs, liver or chicken.

Hopefully this will help until you maintain the situation until you can get some hands on training with a behaviorist.

So when I first read this post, I didn't realize the flexi leash was a retractable leash. I used a normal flat leash for the first few months of hiking with our pupper, but wanted to have both hands free for trekking poles so we went with this. Nice thing about it when our pupper goes down hill, she will zoom, and the elastic can help reduce some of her pull. She's got a very strong nose and will randomly dart out to follow the scent (she is an Amstaff/beagle/Greyhound mix...and her love of following scents is....formidable!). It attaches to the belt, but can also be made into a stand-alone leash as it attaches to itself. It also has a little handle where it attaches to get harness which makes it infinitely more controllable when we come up on another pupper which unfortunately makes her a bit nervous. The handle at the harness and makes moving her off the trail very easy.

FYI, I have one of these, and I absolutely love it. It's a little nicer than a leash, in that it keep my pup right where he needs to be next to my bike - not too close, not too far. Leash works ok, I suppose, but I like the bar. In any case, hope you have fun, I know mine loves bike rides.

https://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466175470&sr=8-1&keywords=walkydog

My boyfriend used to get his boxer mix to pull him on a longboard when he was a kid to exercise his dog and it was great fun!

Biking can definitely be a bit safer if you use a specialized biking attachment like this to make it harder for the dog to topple you over.

With any pulling sport it's a good idea to get basic directional and stop commands in (especially if you don't have brakes like on a bike). We plan on doing pulling sports with our next dog and are shopping around for good harnesses to make sure he stays safe.

There are some devices for attaching the dog to the bike. I think this one is really popular. Some people just attach the leash to a bungee on their handlebars (but they tie the bungee a special way so it won't come off but still absorbs some force). I don't actually know anything about training a dog to run beside the bike but someone on here will have a good answer and tips. You can't really make them run a lot until they're over a year (or year and a half)because their bones are still growing and you don't want them to damage anything. After that, it's fair game!

If he responds negatively to other dogs, the trainer should be knowledgeable enough to help him get over it an work in a class setting. We had two or three dog aggressive dogs in our classes or trials and they never had a problem; we could all learn/compete without a dog fight or major disruption. It's a good socialization opportunity, too. It's going to be really great for him and for you! :D

Leash

Coupler

I love my leash, but it was pricey. It has buckle on the handle that I use for quickly attaching them to things. It also adjusts from about 4'-6'. Then the coupler adjusts too, so one dog has more slack. Which is nice because my good old dog doesn't get dragged around by the rambunctious puppy so much.

It's a fantastic setup for when we're casually walking. We seldom get tangled up. Definitely don't skimp on individual leash training for the new pup though.

There's also this leash. Which is $10 cheaper and lacks a padded handle and doesn't adjust in the front.

Easy solution to trash digging is to simply get a locking trashcan or put the trashcan in a place the dog cannot access.

From the way the dog acts it sounds like he isn't getting nearly enough exercise and or mental stimulation. Just because you have a big yard doesn't mean you don't have to exercise your dog. Especially if you just let him out and expect him to "play with himself". I have a fairly nice sized fully fenced yard and my GSD still gets 3 walks a day plus interactive playtime with me about once a day.

If your dog isn't interested in tug, fetch or frisbee, then the next step would be to run your dog. If you aren't in the best physical shape then what you can do is buy a cheap bike and purchase a Walky, run him for even just 20-30 minutes hard and I guarantee you his unruly behavior will decrease. I will note though, since he's a large breed dog I would wait at least until he's 12-15 months old to start doing this, as you can damage his joints by exercising him too hard before his joints have fused. Also get a kong, you can keep him occupied for at least 45min-1hr by putting peanut butter in it, freezing it, and then giving it to him.

I'd also recommend crate training him so that if you don't want him around guests you can crate him and you know he's safe. You can also crate him when nobody is home to guarantee your property and your dog's safety. Another thing you can do is buy a tie out and put it in the middle of the yard so he can't smash and paw on the door.

I'd definitely second getting a trainer to help you with his behavior in general though, it sounds like you aren't communicating with him in a way that clicks with him (remember, every individual will respond differently to different training methods), a seasoned trainer with lots of experience will probably be able to teach how to
communicate with him in a way that let's you communicate what you want him to do.

Lastly, you need to be patient with him, the Akita is a breed known for being very stubborn and hard to train, so you have to remember to manage your expectations. Just be consistent with what the trainer tells you to do and you will see results.

We bought one from Amazon that has worked well for us. He's fully grown, so I'm not sure how it would translate for a pupper. It has multiple adjustable straps which help it fitting properly. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00164SZMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2jTUAb7QTEAAK). We also ordered a handsfree leash with multiple hand holds that I found helpful in teaching him not to pull, and it's great for hikes. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7ND6E4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) Hope it helps!

> I termed it defining the world for them instead of training them to do things. My doberman get sessions and lessons with rewards. My afghans get a daily narrative of how things go.

I know exactly what you mean. My Whippets have a scary large vocabulary of words and phrases they understand, but formal obedience just doesn't come naturally to them. They are definitely shaping dogs rather than working dogs, and not in the training definition of 'shaping' either. One of mine is very eager to work for food, but I think she's pretty exceptional.

That photo is adorable by the way. We had a few touches of snow for the first time in both Whippets' lives the other month and they thought it was horrendous. I wonder what they would do with snow that deep, though. I bet they'd enjoy the novelty of it.

I will definitely tether for a while if this plan goes ahead. I have a trixie waist belt I could attach leads to, did you do it any other way?

I know warnings are like a broken record every time someone posts a picture of their new high maintenance breed puppy but here it goes anyways.

1. Aussies need a job. Get into some kind of sport. If you don't have time / money for special classes at least look into getting a Walky Dog to help burn of some energy. And don't forget to the Booties to protect the feetsies
   
   
2. Running / Walking will help burn energy but Aussies are smart. They need a lot of mental stimuli to keep them from getting bored and destroying your life.
   
   
3. Aussies tend to bond strongly to their own families and are generally wary of strangers. Proper socialization with other people and dogs is incredibly important.

These are beautiful! Love the colors. Considered blue?

It looks like the small collars have a ring opposite the buckle to clip a leash but the bigger ones don't- any reason? I love the back of the neck d ring.

Considered trying a double handle leash? I don't know the real word for it, but where there's a six foot leash and another little handle right by the dogs collar. Like this : https://www.amazon.com/Max-Neo-Double-Traffic-Reflective/dp/B019YPYG4W#immersive-view_1567638926543

You've got great photography on the site, very nice looking.

First and foremost, you need a solid leash to make running together enjoyable for you and for the pup. Once I got this leash everything got way more enjoyable (especially because Aussies love to zig zag).

Tuff Mutt Hands Free Dog Leash for Running, Walking, Hiking, Durable Dual-Handle Bungee Leash, Reflective Stitching, 4-Foot Long, Adjustable Waist Belt (Fits up to 42" waist) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQZGD42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_FmuDwbEFBM7TV

Everything else just comes with practice. I stop completely whenever he does a behavior I don't want and we don't start again till he is sitting to my right side. Lots of praise when he is running at the pace I am and keeping the right distance. They are smart dogs and pick up on a lot rather quickly.

Marshall Gulch is a pretty good hike on Mount Lemmon that is dog friendly. There's some running water there, and my dog always enjoys it. A lot of people hike it with their dog off-leash though, so it may not be good if your dog is not friendly with others.

Also, tacking onto the leash comment above, a nice hands-free leash is great for hiking! I have this leash, and a Ruffwear harness that you can buy at REI in town.

http://www.amazon.com/Springer-Dog-Exerciser/dp/B0017NM4OE

This is the one I have. It doesn't specify a weight but I imagine the weight is really there to ensure people aren't biking with small dogs who can't handle it safely. If your dog is fit and active I am sure it will be fine.

The one thing a will note though is that dogs aren't built for extended periods of running so I will alternate my speed so my dog is mostly trotting with bursts of sprinting. It can be tough to go slow enough at first, haha. I've gotten very familiar with my granny gears!

I do a lot of biking with my dogs. They run in front pulling, but next to you works too- it depends on what you want, and what the dog is more comfortable doing.

1. Use the right equipment. You must use a harness, and it must be designed for running/pulling. Even if your dog is not pulling, harnesses designed for biking will be better padded and will not restrict movement. Unpadded harnesses can quickly rub fur off, and any harness that restricts movement will cause strain on your dog's elbows and it affects the way their weight is shifted as well. Check out the Alpine Outfitters Urban Trail harness, the HDA Distance Harness, Indi Dog Vari Fit or similar. Do not use a traditional x-back unless your dog is going to be pulling consistently, it will bunch up and be uncomfortable. If your dog will be next to you, use an attachment like the Walkydog and if your dog will be in front of you use a tugline.
   
2. As a general rule, do not run on cement or asphalt. Very short rides, up to you, but hard ground means hard impact on their joints, and the abrasive surface leads to torn and blistered paw pads. A mile or two a few times a week I honestly wouldn't be concerned about but you may want to look at booties. Paw wax like Musher's Secret is great to help keep pads moisturized but does not protect well in itself from abrasive surfaces.
   
3. Yield to everyone. Dismount and hold your dog when another dog is going by head on. Dismount and hold your dog and run to pass people with dogs, using your bike as a barrier between you both and the other dog. Assume all dogs are mean, basically, as you never want your dog to say hello while working- it can lead to fights, but more commonly leads to tangles, which leads to fights. Your dog does not say hello to any human or other dog while it's attached to your bike.

HandHook I think you'll love this ,
Your very own pet Rock ! Have you ever wanted a pet, but couldn't afford the pet food, their bed, or even a water bowl? Now you don't have to! This all in one Pet Rock Kit comes with everything you need. In fact, you can leave your pet there in your home while you leave for vacation, and everything in the kit will keep your pet rock alive forever.

Thanks /u/laterdayze for mentioning me :P You're amazing!

/u/Thesmy Be my fellow saleman!

I use the kurgo leash and Zipline for the back of the Jeep. I installed the zipline just behind the front seats over the roll cage (I don't keep the back seat in) and my Husky can go from side to side and not jump or fall out. The leash has different tether lengths so you can adjust as needed. I would suggest adding a swivel connector between the zipline and the leash. My dog goes in circles and without the swivel got the leash all curled up.

Kurgo Leash and Zipline(TM) Dog Car Restraint https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002AN6STC/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_NNtBCbA9EWWD3

For my little pug co pilot I used the kurgo tether and his harness. It plugs into the seat belt and keeps him secure. We unknowingly tested this and it worked wonderfully. The only note I will make here is he was an old man and very subdued. If your dog is a mover and shaker they could step on the seatbelt release and undo it. Just something to consider.

Kurgo 01965 Direct to Seatbelt Tether Dog Seat Belt & Dog Car Seatbelt, Blue https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07D8XRNWR/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_KYtBCbA0FDPV7

Hope this helps, we all want our Jeep dogs to be happy safe dogs

It's really simple but here's the belt I bought, though I don't use their leash as it's too heavy-duty, I just loop mine through the attachment. And here's the treat bag I use, I really like it. :)

My dog went through some really basic obedience classes when he was a pup, and I think it was really helpful that we put a lot of work into getting him used to walking next to us while on his leash. Honestly, he took right to the bike lead; I took him around town slowly the first few times, and that was about it. I think he knows that the bike = running, so he cooperates. Honestly the most difficult part is when he's over-excited and tries to herd my bike by nipping at my front tire.

As far as the leads, in my judgement it's best to have a lead that attaches to a mid to low section of your bike. My bike is pretty tall so I went with the Petego Spring Lead Universal Bicycle Leash and attached it to the lower section of my seat tube (below the top tube); whereas my wife went with the Walky Dog which she attaches to the rear axle of her bike. I will say that the Walky Dog is kind of nice because you can pop the lead right off the bike and use it like a leash, though if you're running two dogs the Petgo attachment has two attachment points.

Sorry that's not a lot of info, but if you have any specific questions I'd be happy to answer.

Just started up biking with Tigger for the first time last week. We have now been on 4 rides and I LOVE it. She loves to run and this has been a great outlet for her. Not to mention she took to it like a pro - no fear of the bike, heeled when I told her to, and so far she has not pulled me off.

We have a nice bike path near our house to ride on as well. I have only ridden on that path so far because I don't trust her on the streets. If we keep up with this I am going to buy a bike attachment this summer.

Front harnesses are great; they cut so much of the dog's pulling power. We got the Tuff Mutt hands free leash and it buckles around your waist, like a belt. It also has a small bungee section so if they pull it gives just a little before stopping. It also has two handles and OH MY GOSH is it an arm saver. Our trainer recommended it for our reactive dog because it allows us to be a more solid base instead of getting our arms yanked out of our sockets. We got two, one for each dog and I never want to use a regular leash again.

This specifically is the one we got recommended by our trainer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQZGD42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T8RIybWSQ1WJE

But she also recommended this one as well: https://www.amazon.com/Retractable-Bungees-Protection-TaoTronics-Controlling/dp/B01M7ND6E4/ref=zg_bs_3024195011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=EP76F5KNGQKZ5TY6FAQ5

I have this bike attachment for riding with my dog and I love it.

My dog is pretty good on leash, so getting him to do it on a bike was pretty easy. I did it in the following steps:

1. Put him in his harness, attached the bike lead (with no bike) and just took him for a walk with it.
   
   
2. Attached him to the bike, and walked the bike with him around the block.
   
   
3. Went for it.
   
   I don't know, it's very possible I under thought it, but it really worked pretty easily for me. No accidents so far.
   
   A couple of tips I've found:
   
   You should not pull your dog! If you start to notice it's a little harder to go, it's because he's lagging. Slow down, or let him stop. You can really get your dog up to a "sprint" on your bike, which my dog loves, but he just doesn't last very long. When I'm going fast, he can only got about 3 miles (when I started, it was about 1.5 miles). Make sure you bring water, a bowl and poop bags.

We just got a WalkyDog Plus that we're training our dog to use.

The pole attaches to your bike seat so you're free to safely keep both hands on the bike, and it keeps the dog at a distance so it can't get in front of or behind the bike. It does require training to get the dog used to moving with the bike, but so far we like it.

Even just snail pacing around an empty parking structure is more than enough to exhaust her for now. The added bonus is she's learning that paying attention to where we're steering is crucial to her safety.

The only downside so far is that if she pulls a certain way and doesn't match pace with the bike's speed, she can move the seat post attachment. But that's why we're slowly training her to keep pace with the bike.

I wish my dog would do this, but I would also never ever trust him, as the walk to the dog park is 0.7 miles and through a busy urban area until we get inside the park, which is also very busy and full of people with their dogs. I'd probably have to get an Uber home and hope I could find one that's OK with dogs, and tip them a lot. I've thought about this more in the context of his leash buckle or collar breaking.

Leash pro tip: either buy one with a D ring near the handle (I like this one as it as a traffic handle which is key for my 85 lb guy), or slap a carabiner on the handle, then you can clip it to itself and make a loop to wear across your body, on one shoulder to the other hip. That's what I do and it's very handy for the dog park.

First: Do Pack out your dogs shit. This bag holder is fantastic. It velcro's to the leash and doesn't flop around like the ones that clip on.

It depends on how busy it is for me personally. I prefer not to have my dog on a leash, but I always have it with me and recall him when others are near. I do not allow him to go out of site and he is trained to follow me.

I try my best to pick hike that are not popular, and I usually start hiking no later than 7 AM. I am almost always hiking 7+ miles as well. This combination of factors limits people on the trail. If it is too busy on a certain hike and I still want to hike it I will leash him.

I recommend for frequent hikers to get a 12' leash. The standard 6' leash is often a bit short for hiking in places with rock climbs or

It is 100% inexcusable to not have your dog leashed in the city and probably any hike within a 1 hour drive.

We got a WalkyDog and it works great:
http://www.amazon.com/WalkyDog-Bicycle-Exerciser-Leash-Hands/dp/B003OYIAW4

Keeps the center of gravity low so that they can't affect the bike travel as easily. It's just long enough to keep them away from moving bits but has enough play for some side to side.

Our huskies love them. Half the time I can just sit back and they will do most of the work :) Once they get into a run the are fairly oblivious to anything not directly in front of them. Had a rabbit jump out to the side once and I started prepping for trouble but we just ran right past.

I have one like this double handled leash that I like a lot. I also like the rope leashes, but that may be too heavy for a 20 lb dog.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0746CH6B4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FDwYBb54S393S

I also like this no-frills leash . It’s cheap and long and I can easily tie a loop in it wherever I want to act as a 2nd handle.

Haven’t tried the bungees but curious about them.

I've been using this leash for almost a year and really like it. There are a couple rings on the leash that you can adjust how long the lead is as well as a hand loop that's useful when I need to keep him by my side when we are passing someone. Granted my dog is a lot smaller than this leash is good for but I've never been worried about that it was going to break when he tried to run after a rabbit or something

TaoTronics Retractable Hands Free Dog Leash with Dual Bungees for up to 150 lbs Large Dogs (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7ND6E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bdRKBbEGGFXCJ

Hey! Thanks for the kudos! I ride to work with him in the trailer (about 6mile round trip) every other day so that helped for sure. We have a walky dog as well that helped when he was getting antsy (but slows us down considerably) and then a few times where we could let him completely loose.

It was our first go at it, hence our short 22mile overnight. We're confident now that we can go further!

They actually make leash attachments you can put on the side of your bike so your dog can run with you safely without pulling you or getting run over. I've been considering getting one for my dog since I don't run, but he sure loves to.

I actually just asked my vet about this today!

My husky just hit 10 months and my vet says slow run/walk intervals are fine until she's a year old. Then we should be good to open it up (right).

I'm on week 5 of a couch to 5k program, so it's mostly intervals. My mile is about 12-15 mins with the drills. We are going plenty slow, much to my dog's dismay.
We've done 3 miles, tops, with a break halfway to the dog park where she runs around like she's insane.

I have this harness:
TRUE LOVE Adjustable No-Pull Dog... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GWH9Y6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And this leash:
SparklyPets Hands-Free Dog Leash... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K513BN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

My favorite thing that my doggo owns is his leash, it hooks around my waist. I love being able to be hands free on walks/runs/hikes. This is the one I have.

Dodger

Tychus

Kitiara

Piper

I have a howling dog alaska because it was the cheapest to get here in the UK for my 15kg cocker spaniel cross and it still looks brand new 1.5 years later and running nearly every day with it.

For me I have a trixie running waistbelt https://www.amazon.co.uk/Waist-Belt-Lead-Medium-Sized-Large/dp/B0057FZLDY/

but I will be upgrading/changing that to an actual under the legs running belt in the near future https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dingo-Multifunction-Comfortable-Adjustable-12780/dp/B01LXFIF41/

Why? The trixie one is great for the other half to use, it spins around if need be when just walking with it but the one under the legs will be kept lower and won't move out of place and be great for actual races.

I have this one and I love it. Really nice quality and affordable too. I'm pretty sure it could be adjusted to fit you. I don't have an exact measurement, but I'm fairly small myself and I'd guess my waist is around 24-25". I've worn it with a thin tank top and there's still a good few inches to make it smaller.

I got a similar one before looking back at this post! it's this one. I'm planning on putting her regular leash through it and clipping it on her collar as well. Then I'll probably be way less worried and way better at using the clicker. I usually just put the leash around my elbow and fold my arm if i'm treating and that is just giving me a lot of rug burn. lol.

EDIT: Clarity

This is just a side note, not about your business, but if you are going to offer walks, definitely require owners to have both secure collars and harnesses, maybe something like this hooked into both.

Two different dogs last summer were lost in my neighborhood alone while their owners were on vacation, both being cared for by official pet sitters from different companies. Both dogs had managed to slip their collars while on walks. It was a big deal, and those petsitters were pretty much blacklisted after that.

What attachment do you use, if you don't mind my asking? My local pet supplies store sells the Cycleash: https://www.amazon.ca/Petego-Cycleash-Universal-Bicycle-Leash/dp/B00BL7SPIU What do you think? The description says it's good for dogs 35lb. and up -- mine's only 30lb. But she is crazy athletic and muscular. She looks like she's on steroids!

I do have a harness that she isn't AWFUL with, but it's a martingale harness so it tightens. I could put that on her, but that doesn't sound great compared to a collar, either. I tried going the Ruffwear route (I LOVE their leashes) but my pup just shuts down as soon as she can feel something bulky on her back or around her belly.

An option is to find a sturdy box, or something of the kind, that can sit at the foot of the part of the seat where you want your dog to be. It shouldn't be made of carton, but rather something that your dog couldn't break through if he jumps on it. you cover both the seat and the box with his blanket and that way he can stretch his legs there. If you can give him some room by moving the front seat forward, that can also help.

It's very important you fasten your dog to the back seat though, so that if you brake sudddenly he doesn't fly right through the windshield or into a seat. There are belts you can fasten into the seat belt holders, and we also use [this zip line] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kurgo-Safety-Tether-Orange-00032/dp/B002AN6STC/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1517649911&sr=8-15&keywords=Kurgo+car) to fasten Luci's harness to the back seat.

You can also use this to protect seats.

How is your GSD with bicycles? You can train your dog to run alongside a bike with an attachment like this. Its easier on you and your husband than running for several miles but can be great exercise for you and your pup.

Our dog Suki was actually really bike reactive and we were able to get her to the point where even she can run along with the bike, so even if your dog is startled by bikes its possible to train them to be cool with running along with one.

There's a quick release mechanism.

May I ask though, what would cause you to fall? Because if you're worried about the dog causing that, that's exactly what the WalkyDog prevents from happening.

It's mounted to your bike exactly where your center of gravity is, so you have your ENTIRE body weight "pinning" that connection point down. I run with my 70 lbs dog and am completely fine, but there are people who take out their 100+ pitties & GSDs without any issue at all. The combination of your center of gravity and the high tensioned springs the leash attaches to prevent your dog's sudden lunges from moving you or your bike.

As someone who used to be a full-time bike commuter (7.5 miles each way), I feel confident asserting that a WalkyDog (or a similar product) is SAFER that holding a leash in nearly every way.

We have a few of these. https://www.amazon.com/Trixie-Waist-Belt-Medium-Sized-Large/dp/B0057FZLDY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511601752&sr=8-3&keywords=trixie+belt

We like them because they don't rely on the strength of a plastic buckle. The strain is around your back/waist in a complete loop of one piece of material.

We use these carabiners as well, they seem OK. I can't remember what size though - https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Size-1-S-Biner-Carabiner/dp/B001E8EV3Y/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1511601841&sr=8-8&keywords=carabiner&th=1

RUFFWEAR - Slackline Leash, Twilight Gray (2017) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LP31HMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26qFDbTQFWZWK

I use this one I like how easy it is to anchor your dog when you need to run Into a store. I also like how you can do hands free it comes in handy for hiking because I can attach to either my pack or waist. It’s also adjustable in length so it’s perfect for city walks with traffic as well as hikes where they can roam.

Yes! I bought it local but they are on Amazon too! The belt comes with one leash but you can buy a second or use existing leashes too.

It has rings on the right and left side! So easy for 2 dogs!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G8K8559/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P69DDbVZPPM9V

I had a boxer, and the way we trained her was to get a leash that could also be tied around my waist, like this one

and then doing very short bursts of jogging, as every time I ran she would think its play time. When she would try to run faster I would stop, make her sit, and then jog again. After a week or so she got used to the rhythm and was fine. You can also incorporate treats so when she ran well without pulling you can reward her on the spot.

Biking is the best! It's been a lifesaver with my dogs. I use the Walky Dog bike attachment and it's been amazing. My jogging speed is more like their slow trotting speed, but with the bike they get to all-out sprint. Plus my boy is fairly dog reactive but on a bike we go by so quickly that he hardly has time to notice other dogs.

Yeah, totally safe so long as you do it the right way. You get something like this to attach the dog to the bike and you use a harness, not a collar. Also, unless your dog is super athletic then you don't want to go really fast. I tend to stay on the sidewalk that encircles the park as well and I don't run here anywhere else but in parks. She also has an orange safety bandana that says "No Touch, No Talk, No Eye Contact" as well as a yellow safety vest. You never attach the dog to your handlebars or hold the leash while you ride because they can pull you off that way since the leash isn't attached to your center of gravity.

Hm, it does for me. Here's the Amazon page - it's the Ruffwear Roamer leash. I'd say the bike attachment is a better option for absorbing pull - I just mean that even without a device specifically designed for that, it's surprisingly easy to keep a bike stable with a crazy dog tied to you.

This is the exact one we got

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7ND6E4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493777588&sr=8-4&keywords=hands+free+dog+leash

But there are some as cheap as $15 or less. If you search for "hands free dog leash" on Amazon, you'll see the options. But I've been really happy with the one we got.

This is what I use. It's been several years now and it's as good as new. No wear on the bungee. No broken clips. My only complaint is that it's more of a hips leash for me, because I can't make it small enough to fit my waist, but honestly, it's more comfortable there for me anyways.

I have a different one for hiking that carries a waterbottle, phone, etc.

When my Doberman was between 1 and 3 years old, I had a Walky Dog on my bike and we'd go on rides multiple days a week. It was the perfect way for her to release her energy. She absolutely loved it and still gets excited when she sees a bike to this day. My only words of advice is to be mindful of the wear and tear running on concrete can do to joints. My girl is 10 now and has arthritis and leg tremors that's being treated with Gabapentin and Tramadol.

Hands Free Running Dog Lead / Dog Walking Belt by Barkswell - Reflective with Double Sided Lined Pouch - Up to 60 Kg - Great for Handsfree Running , Jogging or Walking https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00VXOX9O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uzU2AbWPR8CGJ

I bought this, because my dog tended to suddenly lunge at things and I couldn't keep a regular stride! It took him a while to get used to it but it's working really well. He can move around me and the lead is long enough that I don't accidentally kick him.

3 years ago I got my husky, and suddenly theres husky puppies popping up all over the neighborhood. Please know what your getting into with a Husky. They need at least 1 hour of full mental and physical exercise each day... simply expecting them to be a house-dog is just cruel to this particular breed.

Me? I have him pull a 3 wheeled trike in winter, a bike in autumn/spring, walks in summer, all 45 minutes long. One hour dog-park visits on weekends. Daily combing, 30 minutes of toy play every day I get home from work. He's broke two of these (never buying them again) and we've resorted to having simple heavy duty industrial bungee cords and a heavy duty harness.

Even after 3 years I don't understand him. He doesn't care for fetch, or understand the point of tug-of-war, he just looks at you funny when you throw something. He's crazy smart (knows how to open kitchen drawers, twist the front door knob, and knows how to unlock the gate to get into the living room).

My dog was in a fire at 6 weeks old when his parents & 5 brothers/sisters died... and has had severe territorial aggression (disturbed while sleeping can result in a deep bite to your foot or arm) issues we've never been able to address (even with behavioralists and medication). He's a big fan routines though.. which is great because I suck at them so we help each other out.

All in all, a husky is a lot of work, it's a relationship built on respect rather than "I am the master, you are the pet." You get an amazing friend that is beyond just being a dog. Huskies are independent, have strong personalities, and can tell when your having a stressful day so they'll always be there for you when you need them.

http://www.amazon.com/ROCK-walking-leash-Kraft-Silly/dp/B008PSP5SG

And this seems to be a pretty polished version of the pet rock. There are all kinds of awesome ways to make it, get a product out there and see what happens!

I have this waist leash and love it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014T2UED2/

It's got a bungee cord like leash so if your pup likes to suddenly dart off, you'll have some warning before you get dragged away. It also has handles so if you feel the need to hold onto the leash, you can.

We primarily use it for hiking so have the shorter one to keep Pup on the trail, but for walks, maybe the longer one would work better?

Something like that would be fine.

As others, I just hook my leash to my pack's waistbelt with a carabiner.

I've also seen positive reviews of products like the Ruffwear Roamer, which can wrap around your waist. No need for a separate hip belt/pack.

I was thinking about getting this for my GSD/Husky mix - supposedly it works great and the shock absorption for sudden movements works great!

I got the tuffmutt waist leash as recommended by u/phantom_and_ghost

It's great for my peace of mind. I don't have to worry about my dog escaping if I accidentally drop the leash.

As someone below commented...it sounds like you are already providing this dog with WAY more exercise than someone else who will adopt him will. I'm not saying this to make you feel guilty for giving him up, more that you shouldn't feel this guilty if you decide to keep him.

I think there are a lot of other options an ways to tire him out besides just running with him. You can look into biking with him, which will tire him out faster than it will tire you out. I've heard great things about [walky dog] (http://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453499821&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=walky+dog&psc=1) There is NOTHING that tires my crazy dog out more than playing with other dogs. An hour trip to the dog park will tire him out for the rest of the day. And I take him to doggy daycare usually about once a week, and he is tired to the point where he can't even keep his eyes open on the car ride home.

I do agree with whoever said that you should focus on getting your asthma under control first (I have asthma too) and then see where you're at with your dog. I have a feeling once you get that sorted out you might really regret giving up Arrow!

I got a walky-dog for my heeler mix after we moved to Chicago and it's been wonderful. It keeps him at my side & has a bungee so when he inevitably tries to go after a squirrel he doesn't take me with him. I always recommend it to anyone looking to get into biking with their dog. That being said, I only need it because Phil gets distracted easily and will try and take off to the side from time to time. If you think you can train her to keep at your side it probably wouldn't be necessary!

There are good running leashes on Amazon. They come with a waist belt and have a bungee leash so that quick jerks aren't as bad.

For example:

TaoTronics TT-PA006 Retractable Hands Free Dog Leash with Waist Wearing, Reflective Sithching & Dual Bungees for up to 150 lbs Large Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7ND6E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XjYkDbNMXTFNZ

I got one of these for my pup and use it all the time

My little brother got me this one last year for Christmas. It's pretty cute so I still keep it on my dresser.

My dog enjoys both equally so what I do is one day we walk, the other we jog. I also have a bike attachment for lazy days. Hiking is also a good alternative for weekends. There are many people with husky and working type breeds that do bikejoring and dog scootering that you may want to look into as well.

If I may make a suggestion - get a running leash if you want to run with your dog. I got this one - Tuff Mutt - but they're all pretty similar.

It frees your hands to run normally and with the leash attached to your waist and elastic any pulling is significantly reduced. Took my gal for a two mile run this morning with no problems at all.

Hope you heal up quickly!

I've been thinking about buying this one. The reviews are almost too good to believe really. A common theme seems to be that people like the "bungee" feature because they don't feel the full impact of a sudden pull. Maybe worth looking at.

Hey! Started doing the same w our girl too. After 6-7 rides I’ve started using a harness + this guy (Walky Dog Plus Hands Free Dog... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OYIAW4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

After a few rides I’ve become a fan

Lots of good info in that reply, thanks! After my previous comment I read about the 148/141 TA/QR end cap swap. Seems livable should I go with the trek.

I have a Springer Dog Exerciser that I use to take my dog out with me. We climb pretty fast but we don't bomb descents. That's not to say I wouldn't go without him, especially in hot weather but the mount takes some effort to remove.

It's a whole other topic but I've considered re-engineering the mounting receiver to work a little differently. That would make it possible to use a dropper.

Edit: my link formatting doesn't seem to work on my phone app. Sorry about that.

Edit#2: fixed my botched formatting. Boom

We have this one and its pretty good. I am not the biggest fan of retractable leashes, though, so I think it only gets used about half of the time.

This is the one I got from Amazon. It works great. Before one of my best buddies passed 2 weeks ago, I could walk both my dogs hands free with this thing. Still get a whiff of poo once in a while, but it’s not too bad, and there’s no poo bounce-age off the arms.

i keep two hands on the bars and run the leash between my fingers and the bar, so i can pull her back in, but if she ran around a pole the leash would slip off. she is only 35#, but if she were 80 i would not do this for fear of being pulled over.

​

You might also check out a [springer](https://www.amazon.com/Springer-Dog-Exerciser-Biking-your/dp/B0017NM4OE/) it keeps your hands free and absorbs shock from the dog pulling. does a great job. i just got lazy trying to adjust it so i dont use it much but its on my todo list to get it set up again.

I bought this one for my German Shepherd mix. So much better than holding a leash. It seems trivial but it helps me focus on myself and my run. It has multiple clip points on the belt part and on the leash so you can make it shorter if needed.

Can’t recommend one of these enough It has saved my shoulder on countless occasions.

I bike with my dog and use this bike attachment, this harness and also [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002IJQDC/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for her paws. She loves it. Here's some pics.

or this! http://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/172108427762?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

I'm still waiting to have a gnarly fall... it's worth it though :)

This one! I wanted the aqua but it took an extra day to get here and I’m impatient, so I went with gray. But it has a little hole to stick in a roll of poop bags, a smaller pouch for treats, a bigger pouch for keys, and two loops to attach leashes. It’s awesome.

I find this to be an awesome thing for a dog owner to have

I think a carabiner would work just fine in your case.

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tuff-Mutt-Dual-Handle-Reflective-Adjustable/dp/B00YQZGD42/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511061925&sr=8-5&keywords=Dog+running+belt&dpID=51hlmcs%252B3fL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

You already have the bungee leash and the harness, just clip it to you and you're good to go.

When you say Easy-Walk harness, you're talking about this harness, correct? Because the replies you're getting all read to me as though they're talking about retractable leashes, like this.

I adore my Easy-Walk harness. I use it for my dog who is 60 lbs of pure excitement pulling in every direction. I don't know anything about using it on puppies, or even on smaller dogs, though. I will say, my dog would still pull like crazy on a regular harness, and would manage to choke herself while doing so. With a front-clip harness like that, she can pull all she likes and there isn't anything even close to her throat to choke her, which is nice.

Hopefully someone with more puppy experience can let you know more about the harness, but I don't think it would hurt. Part of teaching a dog not to pull is showing them that pulling gets them nowhere. My dog had 10 months of learning poor leash walking skills before I got her, and has every reason to think that pulling will get her where she wants to go. A front clip harness from the start would prevent the puppy from getting anywhere by pulling, so he'd never learn that pulling gets rewarded, which sounds like a good idea to me. But I'm still a novice dog owner so maybe I'm not thinking about this the right way.

I would definitely start with a flat leash over a retractable. I personally hate retractable leashes and I hate seeing other dogs being walked on them because of how little control the owner has. The Slackline leash looks nice.

This guy:

Ruffwear - Front Range No-Pull Dog Harness with Front Clip, Twilight Gray (2017), Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ9AIBU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x53Uzb2CFPFDA

And this guy:

Tuff Mutt - Hands Free Dog Leash for Running, Walking, Hiking, Durable Dual-Handle Bungee Leash, Reflective Stitching, 4-Foot Long, Adjustable Waist Belt (Fits up to 42" waist) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YQZGD42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_f63UzbK0F4J75

I use this flexi lead with my border collie. Despite him having a very solid recall, there are strictly enforced leash rules around here. That's how we get around them and still get in some fetch.

I usually kick a tennis ball, sometimes lofting it over his head. He's learned how far the lead allows him to go and 99.9% of the time just stops and waits for me to walk toward the ball so he can pick it up. But it's unusual that a ball gets past him.

Of course, I'm inviting wads of downvotes saying I use a flexi lead here on /r/dogs. It's just not done. Let the downvoting begin!!

There is a thing for this! You can buy a special leash that attaches to your bike to make it easier for both of you.

Could you get something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002AN6STC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520036767&sr=8-1&keywords=dog+seat+belt+zipline&dpPl=1&dpID=41Dh55tZjFL&ref=plSrch

I have this bike attachment, but it is a little short. I would recommend unscrewing the end cap and buying a longer paracord to work with the springs inside, or they’re going to be a little too close for comfort.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5gDsDbJ0KZ5G1

Otherwise, I just use a 37” Drop-Thru (the trucks are top mounted so you have a lower center of gravity) with wide tight trucks, as if I’m going downhill basically. The pups will pull fast but try running with them to see if distractions will make them pull away at their run speed. Usually they’re locked in to mush-mode and will run wherever you tell them!

I'd look into getting a Walky Dog (http://www.amazon.com/WalkyDog-Bicycle-Exerciser-Leash-Hands/dp/B003OYIAW4) or similar system, then staying on bike paths/lanes. Shouldn't be any worse than people who ride around with kid trailers, provided the dog stays next to you and is well behaved.

Link if anyone's interested:

https://www.amazon.com/Rockinthebox-Rock-Walking-Leash-Kraft/product-reviews/B008PSP5SG

I bike with all my dogs and we have run across all sorts of stuff they want to chase and I have yet to have an issue. Here is the attachment I use. I also put my dogs on our treadmill. I think you need to go a bit slower. I took everything slowly and followed the advice here.

http://www.amazon.com/Petego-Walky-Hands-Free-Bicycle-Leash/dp/B003OYIAW4 Something like this maybe?

https://www.amazon.com/Walky-Dog-Exerciser-strength-Paracord/dp/B003OYIAW4

Something like this. There are lots of different ones

We use a 1/2" polypropylene rope to hang a dozen bottles at a time. I use this leash to hang my own tanks when not on the boat with the rope.

I like this because it has two loops and I don't use the clip at all. I feed the leash through one loop and hang it over the side then hang the bottles from the loop at the bottom.

One of the metal pieces from one of these. I tried it out but my dog didn't like it. I want to return it. It got a little rust from getting rained on one day. I can't return it looking like this. :(

http://www.amazon.com/WalkyDog-Dog-Bicycle-Exerciser-Leash/dp/B003OYIAW4


Edit: Adding more info.

I use a very similar leash. The Ruffwear Roamer leash. http://smile.amazon.com/Ruffwear-Roamer-Leash-Large-Obsidian/dp/B00HE4Y4RK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1452535528&sr=1-1&keywords=ruffwear+roamer

It works really well. I also use it when I'm walking more than one dog at a time.

I may be coming at this from a different angle, but I did NOT want my dog to pull. I thought it might teach her bad habits for on walks. So I got a dog biking apparatus with springs in it amd now she trots along perfectly!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OYIAW4?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

How long is a piece of string? If you can manage it, why not have a 30-foot leash?

A long, loose line seems like it might be difficult to manage though. If so, the longest retractable I know of is this Flexi-leash: https://www.amazon.com/Explore-Retractable-26-Feet-Supports-110-Pound/dp/B005NK5DEU
The advantage is it gives you a bit of a chance to sort of reel her in when other dogs are approaching without having your hands full of wadded up rope.

I carry disposables in a little leash bag holder. Kinda like this one.

Be sure to have a bag ready so you can pick it up and throw it at the owner. Keep in mind, it's not the dog's fault!

My big rant about dog owners in Spokane is people walking their dogs off-leash, whether in a public park (not the dog park) or in the natural areas. That's extremely dangerous for you, your dog, another dog owner or another dog.

My dogs are both well-behaved when no one is around but you don't know how the interaction will go for your dog off-leash vs someone else's dog on-leash.

if he's a decent size pup, and you have a bike, get a walky dog.

My medium size pup will pull my bike around the block 4 or 5 times running his little brains out, then sleeps the rest of the day. I rarely have to pedal, he gets to run as fast as he wants, and the bike is actually very easy to control. I'd just avoid really busy streets/times of day for general safety.

The flexi lead I have is This one. My dogs do not pull, though one has on ocassion tried to take off after a rabbit and bolted the full length of the flexi(26 feet) without the tape snapping.

I bought the Large size which is rated for up to 110 lbs because it was the wider 'tape' style that I prefer, the smaller sizes appear to be the cord style on amazon.

Yes.

Pet rock with a walking leash

Rockinthebox Pet Rock with Walking Leash (Kraft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PSP5SG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7rEAybZ4YG7R8

Hi, let me introduce you to my pet rock

http://www.amazon.com/Rockinthebox-Rock-Walking-Leash-Kraft/dp/B008PSP5SG

I actually started out training him to run next to me on pavement, with this

it keeps your dog from jumping out in front of you, so i trained that behavior a bunch before taking him out to the singletrack. concerning wildlife, he is naturally afraid of getting dropped, so even if he goes to chase something i'll keep riding away and call for him a few times. when he realizes i'm not there anymore, he comes running right back

Yes.

This is the internet. Someone will buy anything.

10K rank in toys....... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008PSP5SG

Petego Walky Dog Hands-Free Bicycle Leash
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

I'm looking at this.

It ought to do the trick. My pup and I could both use the exercise.

Use a specially made attachment like Walkydog or Springer to physically attach your dog to the bike. Use a comfy non-restrictive harness on the dog for this attachment point. That way, dog can move normally, but when the dog pulls it doesn't make you fall or crash.

I'd also personally hold a leash connected to a collar for finer control, but the big thing is you don't want the dog's full weight to be able to pull on your arms or handlebars.

Thisis the one I have. The handles are slightly padded which made it less painful when he used to really pull when I first got him.

Product Image

I scoured the web high and low -- in search of your linked pic,

I looked around and soon I found

your item -- that was quick!

The above is this item's information as of 1-29-2017

Product Title:




Rockinthebox Pet Rock with Walking Leash (Kraft)




Rating: 3-5/5 stars

---------------------------------------------------

^Incorrect ^Image ^| ^Get ^A ^Bot

OH. MY. GOODNESS. The Springer Dog Exerciser literally changed my life.

My brother impulsively got a husky. He dumped the poor dog on my parents. Being a husky, he was full of energy, and needed to be walked every day. He was never leash trained and my dad wasn't consistent enough for my training to stick.

Not only is he able to run, TRULY run, like he's been bred to do, but I don't feel unsafe. I don't feel out of control. I'm able to manage and control him very easily. I was terrified of joring with him in case he bolted off... but with the Springer, he's an angel. And it's so much fun. I look forward to doing it every day, instead of dreading him pulling my arm off.

Even if he tries to bolt off, the way it's built keeps me stable and safe. I've only fallen once, and it was very minor and my fault since I wasn't using a proper bike.

https://www.amazon.com/Springer-Dog-Exerciser/dp/B0017NM4OE

i used to use these poop bag holders and the clip is handy! my issue was that they broke A LOT, and when they didn't break, the bottom part would come off and i would lose it on the walk. they also flopped around and that was kind of annoying. now i use this poop bag holder, which i like because it doesn't flop around.

A little bit of both. But mostly bike trails with light traffic. We sometimes jog off leash at a park thats dead empty in the morning, hell keep with me, but sometimes jog ahead maybe ten fifteen feet and look back at me, if i stop or slow hell come back to me. Also if i call he comes right away, but i havent tried to keep him at heel. Hes 0% aggressive and has no prey drive. We see squirrels all the time and he doesnt care. I would take him off leash but im worried about being rude by doing so, or be seen as non courteous to other riders. I was looking into something like this possibly? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003OYIAW4/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=A6UA4NC1RXBMR&psc=1