Reddit mentions: The best dog playpens

Well I think that if you have space for a bunny in your undergraduate apartment and are responsible enough to dedicate the time your bunny needs to his daily care and attention you could adopt a bunny and handle it just fine.

Bunnies are quite social and they do need and crave attention. I would say that having one on one contact with them every day is quite key to building a solid bond and level of trust which you want want. But rabbits are crepuscular - meaning most active at night and early mornings as prey animals, so if you can spare time before you leave in the morning and after you come back in the evening for the bunny that would be great. And during the day so long as the bun has a large space (never a cage) and toys to keep him occupied it should be ok.

Also while initially gaining trust does take some time and some effort, once you have it, the socialization will come easy. All you want want to do is just spend time on the floor with him each day.. again nothing crazy and you can even keep doing what you need to or want to do. You can watch TV, do work, surf the web read a book etc, just do it on the floor. When you are on the floor you are at their level and as long as he is roaming around being on the floor automatically makes you part of his word... he will explore you and sniff you, and you might handfeed him a little and that is how his trust will start to be established. You would want to have floor time everyday, but as you can see you can combine it with the things you normally do. :)

Also consider maybe consider adopting a pair that has already been bonded. Bunnies do tend to get lonely if they spend a lot of time alone.. but with a friend they will be a lot less lonely. They rely on each other for comfort and play time when you are gone... if you can accommodate the space and afford the vet care, the work caring for two bunnies vs one is not much more at all really and it would be a great option I think. The other benefit of adopting two bunnies right away is if they are already both fixed and bonded - then you don't have to bond later if you get a friend... I would warn you against buys two unfixed bunnies at the store though - you cannot bond until both are fixed and healed... so if that is the case then I would get one and get them fixed and later consider a friend.

Of course you still need all of the above and more:

- would you have time to spend with you bunny every day?

- would you be able to clean his space and provide food/buy food when needed?

- do you have a RABBIT SAVVY vet in you college area, and a car, and a way to skip class and care for your bun if there was a health issue? Do you have the money to pay for the vet (I suggested exotic pets insurance). It can be $500 for one ER visit.

- If the bunny got sick you'd have to skip class and even an exam, can you do that?

- do you have the space for a large size enclosure?

- do you travel to college? If so how? Taking a bunny on a plain is complicated - doable but not as easy. Long car trips are also stressful. A bunny cannot be left alone even for say a weekend, no more than while you are in class basically - what about spring breaks and such?

- will you still have the ability to take the bunny to medical school and have the time? Perhaps start med school first and see?

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On another note, if you were hesitant and unsure, perhaps wait to take the plunge and adopt until you are a little more stable... but there are other fantastic ways to be close to bunnies. I for example cannot have one due to my work travel schedule, but I volunteer and they are all my babies! Find a bunny rescue in your area or even a shelter (which always can use people who love bunnies, as they often lack stuff with proper knowledge) and volunteer there. Doesn't have to be a lot, but as much time as you can spare. I volunteer at a bunny rescue and it's the most rewarding part of my life. You will see the difference you are making in these little lives every single time you are there. You will touch so many lives in a way that will make you proud and happy like nothing else can!

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Bunnies are exotic animals and require a lot of special and strict care, they are as much responsibility if not more as a dog - space-wise, money-wise, time-wise, care-wise! The bunny would be your responsibility for 10 to 14 years... you need to be sure before you commit. They make wonderful pets, smart, clean, affectionate, full of personality. But they are quite delicate and require pretty specific care and you should do research in advance and prepare.

The biggest advice - go to a rabbit rescue in your area and volunteer or even try to foster to learn what caring for a bunny is like, how much time it takes, and it it fits into your life. You might discover you would love to be a bunny parent, or maybe you are nervous and want to foster first and get support from the rescue, or maybe you are really busy and tight on space, so for now you prefer to just volunteer to be around the bunnies. It's a great way to learn!!!

I can share with you a little guide on care I assembled below https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Z_IvDuy5Fr-VOKwBVBSmZih0m1ATCIquIMhYyFl4aIw - it is a it long but quite thorough. I really tried to include all the info a new bunny parent might want into this guide... It will help you with know exactly what kind of care and space a bunny will need.

As a prospective new bunny parent take a look at the little guide on care I assembled below https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Z_IvDuy5Fr-VOKwBVBSmZih0m1ATCIquIMhYyFl4aIw - it is a it long but quite thorough. I really tried to include all the info a new bunny parent might want into this guide... It will really help you prepare.

Watch the videos below for some common misconceptions about owning a bunny as a pet and their needs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLxP8gls0RI - What to Consider before Buying a Rabbit

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c6IlJTgsQrU - TOP 10 MISTAKES RABBIT OWNERS MAKE

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1. Bunnies don't like to be picked up or held at all as prey animals! They are not cuddly lap animals, though they will come to you for pets once they trust you but it will take time and effort to build trust. Bunnies are very fragile and picking them incorrectly of chasing them will result in serious injury.
   
   1. To build a bond with your bunny you need to spend time on the floor at his level and always allow you to come to you when he feels safe, never chasing or picking up.
      
2. Bunnies are smart and like toys and space to explore. You need a LARGE space for your bunny! An XXL dog crate might work, but best to use an xpen. My guide linked below has advice and examples of how to set up their enclosure. Also keep in mind that every day you have to let the bunny run outside the enclosure for at least a couple hours.
   
3. Adopt of even try fostering to see if it is working for you!
   
   
   1. If you are looking for a bunny pet, a good option might be to go to a local bunny rescue or shelter and look/ask volunteers what caring for them actually entails and what they need. Also, at a rescue you can meet the animals too and volunteers will know their personalities well an can advise which one might work best for your situation, might warm up the easiest, chew the least, do well alone or as pair, be easier to care for by a first-time owner, do well with children. You could also attend their clinics to learn proper bunny care and even foster a bunny to make the transition to bunny parenthood easier and still have some support from the rescue stuff. Plus an adopted bun will likely already be neutered/spayed and litter trained, as well as socialized at least a bit. Pet stores so often mis-sex the bunnies and sell them already pregnant…
      
4. You will need an exotic pets vet (not just a cat and dog vet) which you should locate in advance. Bunny illnesses are nearly always emergencies.
   
5. They have very strict diets and very delicate GI systems, knowing their diet in advance is important, but it's not hard.
   
6. Bunnies must be fixed - spayed/neutered. Having them fixed is critical for long term health - this can be between $200 and $500 per bunny. Adopted bunnies will be fixed often already.
   
7. Bunnies need social interaction and you attention every day. You cannot leave them alone even for one weekend for a trip - you must board them or have a sitter.

For me the biggest things I learned were how much attention they need (a lot) and how much time I would spend cleaning (a lot!).

Overall:

1. Their personalities are pretty set. You can definitely tame a shy or skittish rat to be tame and affectionate, but it will always be quicker and easier to tame a rat that is just naturally confident and brave. I don't think that getting them at a young age or even breeder vs "feeder rat" really makes that much of a difference - I had a rat that I got at 6 weeks old who was very timid, and he never got to the cuddly point that my other boy did, who was 3 months old when I got him. It's just his personality to be more on the go and not want to sit and cuddle. So for a new owner I would say go out of your way to pick the rat that comes up to you curiously, or seems generally more outgoing. It will make things a lot easier!
   
2. It can take 2 weeks to a month to get them tame to the point of enjoying being held, coming when they're called, easy to pick up and carry around, etc. I worked with mine once or twice a day in the play pen for about 2 weeks before they let me pick up and hold them quietly, and then it took a couple more weeks to really tame down.
   
3. If you never take them out of the cage, and/or if you never try to hold and pet them, they will never enjoy coming out and being held/petted! You have to get them out into a playpen, feed lots and lots of treats (think 12 tiny treats per session) and actually hold them a little at a time, many times in a session, even if it seems like they hate it. They will get used to it!
   
4. They need a LOT of attention. I think rats are an awesome pet for someone who has about an hour to two hours of free time per day, every day, no matter what! They will be "OK" for an evening if you go out or something, but they really come to expect attention at certain times and know your routine, and will really guilt you if you don't get them out to play!
   
5. Same idea, there is a lot of cleaning involved, and it takes time. I would say about 30 minutes of cleaning every other day (like changing out fleece or any sleeping blankets they've peed on, and changing out litter boxes), and then about an hour of a full cleaning once a week (water/vinegar and hot soapy water for anything plastic, changing bedding or fleece, washing cloth). It doesn't seem to matter fleece vs bedding - it's just a lot. That is on top of the hour or so you should spend playing with them. Rats themselves are clean BUT they really make a mess of their cage, haha.
   
6. It costs a lot. I know there are ways of saving money but I just end up spending a lot on them with things like their playpen, different toys, bedding, etc. The cage alone will be $100, then there might be vet bills.
   
7. They will really, really love you! The more time you spend with them, the more they bond with you. Even if your rats are on the go types that don't sit and cuddle, they still really show affection in their own way and truly love you like you're another rat. It's way more than hamsters or mice. Owning rats is as much work and also reward as a dog or cat.
   
   If you have the time and energy for them, they are really fabulous, sweet, and hilarious pets. I would say go visit someone who has them, and see what it's like (and also make sure you're not allergic!).

Here is part of our setup. It is somewhat messy right now as I haven't vaccuumed it in a week or so.

For the floor, we have some cheap tarps and rugs. The buns are pretty good about using their litterboxes but it is always better to be safe than sorry if there is an accident.

We got our pens on Amazon... And wow, looking right now they are on super sale for only $10! As of 12/12, 10:20 AM EST. Plus $15 shipping but still, that is a good deal. I think we spent about $50 per pen. Anyway, I recommend either the 24" or 36" pens because you would be surprised how high some buns can jump. If you have a an athletic bun, I would go with the higher pen.

Stanley (brown bunny) is allowed to free roam so his pen door is open. He still likes his pen a lot though and spends about 75% of his time in there despite the fact he has free reign. Bessie has a larger pen space because she doesn't get to free roam (yet) but still loves to run and binky. We also made her a 3-story cardboard castle which she LOVES. She climbs to the top and then slides down the ramp.

They each have a cheap cloth pet hut as well to sleep in if they want. Stanley loves his and sleeps in it all the time. Bessie doesn't really use hers. They do like to chew on them though so I recommed a cheap one that you don't care much about in case it gets destroyed.

Stanley has a rabbit hutch in his enclosure as well from when we lived in an apartment. He still had a small enclosure too but we wanted to give him something else to do and he loved sleeping on the upper floor so he could see us when we were in the living room. We got that hutch a year and a half ago and it has held up pretty well.

For their food and water bowls, we just got generic pet bowls. I recommend ones that will be hard to flip over in case you have a messy bunny (ie. heavy ceramic ones or non-flippable lipped ones). The water dispensers we got at Walmart for a few bucks and are 1/2 gallon (I think?). We change them every few days and the buns like having a ton of fresh water.

As for hay and food, I usually leave the hay bag on top of Stan's hutch for easy access and give them some hay throughout the day. It is open in the picture because I just gave them some; usually it is closed. We also have a stand with all bun-related things (food, treats, extra hay, toys, etc.) which is just an old bookstand. It is two stories so we can keep the food and treats out of reach of Stanley when he roams.

And we have the bun cam (as set up by my fiance) so we can see the bunnies when we aren't home.

When I vacuum, I just put them in the bathroom and shut the door so there isn't as much noise. They don't seem to mind it too much.

Sorry for the length... Tried to be as thorough as possible. Let me know if you have any questions!

I think the playpen you have linked will do the job. I, and other foster parents I know like this one . It has solid walls so kitties can not climb it and tall enough that kitties cannot jump over it. Make sure they have PLENTY of toys, but don’t keep any in there that they could get tangled up in or hurt themselves. I don’t like to keep the string toys in there with them. A litter box, access to a water bowl, I like to stick stuffed animals in there as well. Kittens this age, especially in a litter, are pretty good at entertaining themselves. Play time should still happen to burn out some energy. This is my favorite age! Good luck and enjoy the kittens! Also, if you’re on Facebook and are looking for more resources, join the page “Orphan Kitten Bottle Feeders and Fosters.” It’s full of very knowledgeable foster parents. Feel free to message me with any other detailed questions.

Edit: I realized you said you did already buy the playpen, which I think will work perfectly fine at this age. Same setup, pretty much. Just make sure they have some things to do, a place to go potty, and a water bowl.

We got a lab puppy not too long ago and ran into a lot of the same issues you're facing now. I'm not a dog expert by any means, but this is what we've found to be useful from experience and reading online.

1). When we first got our puppy, it was important for her to learn what she considers "home". Depending on how big your house is, you may want to partition off part of it for the puppy to get accustomed to. We got a large puppy fence (something like this https://www.amazon.com/Playpen-Crate-Kennel-Exercise-BestPet/dp/B00IX6S8YI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479335753&sr=8-4&keywords=puppy+fence+indoor) and a crate for her, as well as puppy pads for her to pee and poop on. The crate and a bed is what she considers home. And the fenced in area around her crate is her play space. The puppy pads were placed furthest from her crate/bed. Dogs naturally like to keep their home and play area clean, and she quickly realized to relieve herself on the pads since it was furthest from her bed. Otherwise, your pup might start peeing and pooping in random corners of your house.

We slowly expanded her play area and moved her pads further away for her to become familiar with the rest of our house one step at a time. If the initial area was too big, she considered the living room (where her bed was set up) her home, and started peeing and pooping in the kitchen.

2). Like ananomalie said, do not let your pup bite you. He will start teething soon and it can be itchy/painful for him so he wants something to bite on to sooth his teeth. If you let him form a habit of biting you (even playfully), it will start to be annoying fast. Get some toys for him, and every time he starts to bite you, act like it hurts by saying OUCH really loudly in a high pitch, and give your pup a toy to chew on instead. This will teach him it hurts you, and toys are for biting instead. It will save you a lot of grief later to get these habits in check early.

3). Our pup actually never went up stairs because we didn't let her. We had her fence closed off at night and she slept in her crate, so this wasn't much of an issue. You can try blocking off the stairs with a baby gate or pet gate, or just block it with some boxes or any barrier you have around the house.

4). Our pup was actually pretty independent. We slept downstairs with her for the first 2-3 nights. Sometimes she'd yelp a little if she couldn't see us, and we just dropped a leg down off the couch. She was ok as long as she could curl up next to our leg. But in retrospect, it wasn't very necessary. We went back to sleeping upstairs after just a few nights.

5). There are a lot of do's and don'ts and guidebooks for new dog owners online. Spend a weekend looking through them, and you'll see a lot of patterns emerge in people's advice. My own personal advice is:

A). Try to keep a strict schedule. Dogs have great internal clocks, and try to keep your schedule the same from day to day. When to sleep, when to wake up, when to play, when to eat, etc. This will help set expectations clear.

B) Train them out of bad habits early. The biting, the crying, the need for attention. Crate training is useful for training them out of crying for attention. You can look it up online. Look up how to potty train them outdoors once they get all their vaccines.

C) It is important for them to socialize, especially at a young age. Since your pup is young, you can see if friends or neighbors have pets (must have all their vaccines), and you can have a puppy playdate with them. Have friends over, introduce them to your pup, give him treats. It's good for him to learn to trust other animals, pets, and people.

D) Find a good vet and get him on a vaccination schedule. Depending on your area (if you are in a more rural area or metropolitan area with greater chances of wildlife or diseases, I would not walk him until all his vaccines are done (~4months). If you live in a higher-income suburban area, this is less of a problem. However, most vets do not recommend letting them walk around outside until they've got all their shots. I'd say the main risks are drinking dirty ground water, eating random stuff, sniffing other dog and wildlife poop are the main risks.

Hope that helps! And as always, there are a wealth of resources online. Good luck!

Congrats on the new fluffbutt! <3 As a long term chinchilla owner they're wonderful lil guys, but like someone else on here already said, they do like to do stuff on their own terms (when they want to play/etc). I live in a condo now and unfortunately there isn't a whole lot of places that they run around freely (bc of electrical chords) so I got them (I have two currently) a play pen designed for puppies! They both really enjoy it and since it's pretty large/the zipper top and bottom are machine washable it works out really well. As long as they have a lot of toys in there to play with the little one should be fine! Since it's large enough for a person to sit comfortably inside it is also a great way for your fluff to get used to you at their own pace. (Also might I suggest rose hips as treat? They're very high in Vit C and are a much healthier treat than raisins)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154M1VWE/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487798291&sr=sr-1&keywords=puppy+playpen

Congrats!! If you've never had a puppy before, my #1 recommendation is to get a trainer who will come to your house and work with you. They are more for you than for the dog. We did that and while it was really expensive, it was a blessing!

One thing our trainer told us is to let the puppy have access to only a little bit of the house at a time. A crate helps with that, but we didn't want it to feel like punishment and we wanted to be able to let him play around just as a dog in a controlled area. So we bought this playpen and zip tied it to the crate. You can also get linoleum to put underneath the playpen area, but make sure it's all one sheet (otherwise he'll chew on the ends). That also helps clean up potty mistakes!

Speaking of potty, we got a little bell to put on the door. We made him nudge it with his nose or paw (basically picked him up) every time we went out. Then when we finally let him explore more, he knew how to let us know he had to go. Of course, he also used it just as an excuse to go outside, so there's that.

You mentioned you're good to go on crates--did you get one that is life stages and lets you adjust how much room is available? Not a huge deal if not, but if you did, make sure you use it. They don't need a whole lot of room in the crate because they'll just pee on one end and sleep on the other.

For grooming, you don't really need a lot for a puppy (at least in our experience, and our older dog grew up to be a HUGE fluffball). You're more likely to hurt him and turn him off. For our grown up guys, we use a pin brush, a rake brush, a de-matting comb, grooming scissors, and dremmel. We also do your normal ear cleaning solution (we get ours from the vet, so I don't remember the brand offhand, it's the same thing as online) and shampoo. This is what we used when they were puppies. Another essential is puppy wipes for pesky danglers and muddy paws.

For a puppy, though, I really wouldn't use all that stuff. We used a little kong brush to get him used to a brush on his fur, but we didn't even use that until his fur was a little longer (but still too short to use the other brushes). The big thing with grooming a puppy is getting him used to you touching him EVERYWHERE. Stick your fingers in his ears and mouth, rub all over his paws, make him lay down on his back in your lap, etc. Definitely start on nails asap--even if you don't actually trim them, just holding the dremmel up to their nails and getting them used to it helps A LOT. Also the ear cleaner is an essential for golden puppies. Our trainer and vet both told us to drop it in their ears, let them shake their heads, then use q-tips in all the nooks and crannies.

Other essential products are LOTS of toys. You'll figure out real quick what your guy likes. Our first dog was more of a casual chewer, so fabric toys worked, but our second dog LOVES to eat fabric so we had to go with hard toys only. I highly recommend toys by West Paw! As you know, golden puppies will chew on LITERALLY EVERYTHING so you need a backup distractor toy at all times to replace the flavor of the minute. Keep in mind that if you give up trying to stop them chewing on something (say, for example, your computer chair), they will think it's ok to chew on that for the rest of their life. :(

We also got a slow-feeder bowl because our guys gobble down their food like it will disappear if they don't. And if your guy is really annoying with the water bowl (i.e., repeatedly knocking it over), don't worry too much--he'll grow out of it. I recommend keeping a towel under it until he learns all he wants to know about water!

Have fun with your little guy!!!! I'll add anything else I can think of later but feel free to ask if there's anything else you're curious about!

It does get better and you get better at managing it.

I found two reactive boys. One is still afraid of people but he will now warm up to them if they ignore him and he can "sneak" up and sniff them. He is safe and very sweet, though he'll still bark at first. The other also has neurological issues and will never be safe with anyone outside of his small core group of friends.

They've taught me so much about dogs. The first lesson was to go slow. I didn't realize I was pushing them beyond their comfort zone. I thought because they made one step they were ready for the second. Everything had to be done at their own speed, their own timeline.

I know where every quiet park is within 20 minutes of my house.

I take my dogs to the vet's office every few weeks to be weighed so they are comfortable there.

I had to learn how to manage my expectations. They were never going to be cured. One boy is safe with people but still looks to bolt out of every open door. The other boy will never get that far. I had to accept that I wasn't going to end up with two normal dogs.

I learned that to keep them safe from the world I had to keep the world safe from them. I moved to a house from a condo. I put up a 6' privacy fence. I don't walk them around the neighborhood. I made the yard as escape proof as possible. I have at least a gate and a door between them and outside. If one fails there is an emergency backup.

Everyone who enters my house is given the rules. They are not allowed to go look at the dogs. They know that every door they walk through needs to be closed behind them. They know what to do to protect themselves if there is failure and they are charged by my crazy boy. I used to be embarrassed that he was that way, I didn't want anyone to think less of him. Then I realized he didn't care what anyone thought of him, neither should I.

X-pens are your friend. They allow me to confine my dogs or separate spaces.

https://www.amazon.com/BestPet-Playpen-Exercise-24-Inch-30-Inch/dp/B0036WQFQM

I've learned to think out creative solutions. To think ahead, to not over train.

Since I've turned my house into a safe, no stress zone for my boys they are happy and relaxed. We hardly have to deal with reactions. I never forget it's lurking there, but it doesn't rule my life.

I really like this one because it has a gate for getting in and out- great for getting in to play with your puppy, but not awkwardly stepping over while trying not to step on a puppy.

One thing my partner and I do for helping with the zommies when our puppy gets them is play what we call the Rufus game. We stand a distance apart from each other and take turns calling him over to us. He runs back and forth between the two of us getting pets and sometimes treats when he comes. It's a great way to use up excess energy fast & it keeps him from running where it's not safe. He just keeps a path back and forth between the two of us. We've also found it's really helpful for recall- coming when called is a game, not a chore.


Also, though- even if there are bigger dogs in the neighborhood, you should still take her out, just be a good protector. Always keep her on a 4-6ft nylon leash, walk on the other side of the street, take lots of high value treats, be prepared to scoop her up if she's in danger, maybe get a vest that says "in training" so that other people don't approach with their dogs. I don't know the full situation, but you definitely want to make sure she's well socialized to at least see big dogs and not be afraid. Also consider a 20+ft lead to use exclusively in large, open field areas. This gives her room to run and play, but keeps her safe because she's still on lead.

When I first got my dog I found a pen to be much better than a crate. It was roomier, and more multifunctional – you can use it to block off part of a room, contain the dog, or undo the hinges in the corner to use them as barriers for a doorway or hallway. The one I have is similar to this one. It’s very sturdy, but I did end up using a loop of rope under my couch leg to make sure that my dog jumping on it didn’t allow it to slide around (I have hardwood floors.)

I found that the pen helped a lot with his anxiety, a friend of mine thinks it’s because the dog feels ‘responsible’ for the whole of the house when you’re gone, but only the pen when he’s penned. My dog quickly became very comfortable with the pen, I put his bed and food/water inside, and he now goes into it to relax and will also go inside on command if I walk to the door and call him.

Personally, I think that separation anxiety is something that gets better but is really hard to get rid of completely, much like anxiety in humans. Even though my dog has gotten much better over the past year, he still has episodes some times where he eats things that he knows he’s not supposed to.

I also think that traditional approaches to dealing with separation anxiety are kind of BS. For example giving a treat, going away for a short time and coming back to take the treat. People say the idea is to have the dog associate you coming back isn't always a good thing, but people who come home and yell/hit their dog accomplish this as well and everyone agrees that's not an effective approach. (I know people will argue it’s about negative rewards vs positive punishment, but the dog isn’t losing a reward for their own action so I think it still doesn’t make much sense.) In doing this, I feel you’re just conditioning your dog to want you to come back and give more treats – since you only give the treats when you leave.

What I did instead was give my dog his food before leaving. He’s not very food driven anyway, so his food isn’t something he gets excited about at all – I honestly think he views eating as more of a chore, unless it’s raw meats. I also always make sure I clearly tell my dog that I’m leaving, that way he understands that I’m not trying to sneak away (abandon him) or that I’ve mysteriously disappeared (been harmed or eaten.)

Another point is that if the dog is pooping only when you’re not around, it might be because of your negative reactions to their pooping. If you’ve punished them or otherwise reacted to seeing the dog using the house as their toilet, they may think that they’re not supposed to go in front of you – regardless of inside or outside. Try asking your roommate to walk them instead and seeing if the dog reacts the same way?

Smaller dogs need to go more often, it’s digestion isn’t a linear process so if the dog didn’t go now but does three hours later, it’s quite possible the dog simply didn’t feel the need to relieve themselves earlier if your dog is really small. You could try using a puppy pad in a container inside the pen, and then moving the pad to outside the pen, and ultimately moving the pad to outside your house. The idea here being for the dog to associate going to the bathroom with the pad’s container, which will eventually be outside and then removed.

The last thing I want to mention is that potty training and anxiety work both are things that regularly take months, sometimes upwards of a year. If you’re stressing over it now and need it to end now then it might be best to find another way for the dog to be cared for.

Toys:


Jalousie 12 Pack Dog Squeaky Toys... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CSG684C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

UEETEK Squeaky Dog Toys for Small... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZJBH52?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Marshall Ferret Sport Balls Asst, 2-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ENGOP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_c8tyDbBXQWQ6M


Marshall Ferret Fun-N-Games Blanket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OE5H54?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Kaytee FerreTrail Flex-E... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ASBEK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Marshall Ferret Bed Bug Play Center https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MIU5HI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Marshall Ferret Krackle Sack,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ARPSI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Marshall Ferret Octo-Play https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EFV9YM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Marshall Pet Turtle Tunnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VVY49M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_BLdeGqpB9Nl5j

KONG - Plush, Low Stuffing Squeak... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IVGBFY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

EocuSun Kids Ball Pit Large Pop... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KUHQZG0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Click N' Play Pack of 200... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYLU3GG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share x3

D.Y. TOY Weazel Ball - The Weasel Rolls with Ball https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PKFJKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7.tyDb0YSNMVT

Bonka Bird Toys 1745 Chandelier... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015RSD7JA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

ZippyPaws Burrow Squeaky Hide and... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007X7FJAO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

ZippyPaws - Zippy Burrow Interactive Squeaky Hide and Seek Plush Dog Toy - Unicorns in Rainbow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N8GCB7V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pjuyDbWY6CFSW

JW Pet Good Cuz Rubber Dog Toy (2... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113J85JO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

3Pack Molar Clean Teeth Rubber Toy, Bagvhandbagro Clean Teeth Rubber Pacifier Chew Toy, Bell Chewing Playing Training Toys, for Pet Puppy Dog Cat (Color Random) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJNGWMK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_okuyDbTBM8HB2

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Squeaking-Dog-Toy-Hamburger-or-Hot-Dog-Assorted/54273866

https://www.chewy.com/zippypaws-zippy-burrow-crayon-box/dp/206190?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=hg&utm_content=ZippyPaws&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwIPrBRCJARIsAFlVT8_JjfKpnKxdVtL4DtsY7-ld2qS-_7r6PVUG1k0afX9p0jvSthjMAbkaAknVEALw_wcB

just disclaimer some of these toys should only be played with under your supervision so use your best judgement. Check any rubber or stuffed/fabric toys daily for wear and if you see it starting to come apart throw it away as any loose pieces can be swallowed and cause a blockage. My ferrets aren’t chewers they just like to have toys to stash so I’m not as worried but everyone’s ferrets are different so be careful. Also you could make a dig box with rice (never instant) or dried pasta which is a lot of fun for them. They love tunnels, they love to dig, and they love to steal and stash small objects so the toys meet that criteria they’ll be happy lol

Con:

• bites hurt.
  
  
• they can take a while to warm up to you.
  
  
• they can have a wide variety of personalities and you're not quite sue what their personality is until they are comfortable with you.
  
  
• they can be bratty and spray you with urine for telling them playtime is over and they need to go back to their cage.
  
  
• you can't take them for walks.
  
  Pro:
  
  
• they are super soft.
  
  
• when they grace you with their affection, it is all worth it.
  
  
• watching them play happily is very peaceful and relaxing.
  
  
• dust bath time is so cute.
  
  I've had Poppy for 3 years now, she's always been the adventurous type who prefers people as things to jump on as opposed to beings who want to shower her with affection. It's taken until about this year for her to actually want pets and to ask for them. She can be a bratty little munchkin, but after 3 years, we've mostly worked out how to deal with it. I think the real joy of the relationship with the chinchilla blossoms after about 3 years (I think that's about how long it took with my first chin, Lilly). After that point, they get a lot more comfortable with you and are more willing to put up with snuggles and being held and will actually seek them out.
  
  As a chinchilla owner, the best supply purchase I made was a playpen. I put the front of her cage at the opening in the pen and then she has access back to her cage during playtime. This makes her a lot happier and relaxed during playtime and also keeps me from worrying about what she could be chewing or getting into.

"All my life I had to fight. I had to fight my daddy. I had to fight my uncles. I had to fight my brothers." Lol I don't know why I thought of Sophia when I read this post, but that movie quote was my first thought 😂.

You've taken the cat to the vet to presumably rule out uti, kidney stones, etc that would cause your cat to pee, and I'm assuming he is spraying and not urinating.

The first thing to remember is that cat spraying is a normal behavior. Humans have been moderately successful at suppressing this so we can have indoor kitties, but sometimes the instinct is strong. Particularly in your boy's situation as a formerly outdoor kitty amongst other pets who had reason to avidly mark all of his territory. It is very difficult to get cats to stop spraying once they have started. Your cat will not instantly understand that he is now sole king of all the land he beholds in your house, and that he has no need to mark territory. You didn't mention whether you tried changing to a different litter brand.

I'm not sure how many homes this poor baby has gone to in his life, but he needs stability and to feel welcomed. You say he's only doing it when you're home. Can you keep him in the room with you when you're relaxing, and close the bedroom/ bathroom doors? Maybe get him a big playpen so he feels comfortable in a smaller space? I have this playpen I turned into a kitty fort that my brats love to play in. All of my cats started their introduction to my home in this playpen, and I give them more space slowly rather than throwing the whole house at them to explore at once. There's enough space in there for a bed and a litter box with plenty of room to play. You can line it with pee pads and save yourself clean up time.

He has un-learned that it's nice to be clean. He needs to re-turn it, so you need to change your set up.

I always tell people to buy the tall Iris pet pen.Then get a mesh potty pad or fake grass pet potty - personal preference here, you just have to get something where they can't get to and shred the pad.

Put the crate in the back of the pen - start without bedding - and then put the potty thing right in front of it. Now we've created two clear zones - a comfy sleeping zone and a pee zone. By sleeping and peeing on both surfaces, their stupid little brain eventually is like "I can pee somewhere other than where I sleep. Huh. It's kind of nice not to sleep in my pee." They sometimes start to sleep on the potty thing, but don't worry about it, it's still part of the process. Eventually, when they seem to have the idea, try introducing a little bit of bedding back in and BE CRAZY ABOUT WASHING IT. If there is a drop of pee on the bed you can backslide. So wash wash wash so it stays clean and fresh (towels or sheets are a good/cheap way to start). Over time, you can introduce good bedding.

Remember, IGs have bladders the size of acorns, so they have to pee all the time, basically. A lot of people have success with the pen set up forever, and others can take them out enough to phase back into crates.

But right now, you need to give them the opportunity to re-learn how nice it is to be clean.

A side note, buying a dog from a good breeder who potty trains them - or at least you are 100% sure they're not raised to pee where they sleep - goes a long, long, long way in this.

Congratulations!

The linked cage is a good size for a pair of rats but some rat can be voracious chewers and this style of plastic base can potentially be a casualty.

In general, I'd spend as little money as possible at pet stores. Most of the stuff is over priced. The things I like from pet supply sources include food, water bottles (at least two), lava ledges, bendy rope perches, space pods, and bedding/litter. Online sources often have better prices than in the store. Everything else can be DIY'd or purchased from cheaper sources.

I would recommend taking advantage of the deep base of the Kaytee cage and use a loose substrate like aspen, kiln-dried pine, paper pellet, carefresh, etc. bedding on the floor of the cage instead of fleece. That type of deep base doesn't work as well for fleece.

Hides/huts can easily be found/made cheaply. Cardboard boxes from the recycle bin are perfect. Wood absorbs urine and will start to smell terrible in a short amount of time. Cardboard boxes can just be chucked when they get gross. Small plastic baskets or organizer bins from the hardware store or dollar store make for excellent huts/hides and cost a fraction of what pet stores charge.

You'll want several hammocks. They get stinky and need to be washed very frequently. I wash my boys hammocks at least twice a week. They also get chewed up. I wouldn't recommend spending any money on store bought hammocks. They're easy to DIY from scraps of fleece from the remnant bin of your local fabric store or literally from any scrap of fabric from old clothes or whatever. I keep several sets of hammocks and they need to be replaced often when they get destroyed.

Nesting materials are totally free. Pieces of newspaper, paper bags, paper napkins, kleenex, or paper towels will entertain your rats for hours.

None of my rats have ever had much interest in traditional toys or hanging chew toy things. I wouldn't worry about spending too much money on this category of things.

A playpen or play area is an important consideration before getting rats. While rats need to spend time running around outside of their cage every day, they can potentially be quite destructive so you'll need to consider ways of protecting your furniture/property while still giving them time to run around. AboutPetRats has a good page on ratproofing a room. A secure playpen is another option.

While dogs notoriously like dens (small spaces) and feel safe in them, I would have to imagine that just for general safety and visibility, it would be best to not put the dog under the bed. Puppies do really stupid things (like eat carpet/dust bunnies/cloth/whatever) and it would be best if the dog was in your sight. The idea of a pen is a great one though!! This is really commonly used, and the typically name you'll hear it called is an "Ex-pen" or exercise pen. These are actually so common, they're available on amazon!. If you can make one yourself, they are a really great way to make sure your puppy is safe when you cant watch them.


He wont need a lot of space since he is so small, so between your bed and a wall may work just fine. Its great you are so handy to be able to build this, they really mark them up.

I work full time and also have a 4 month old Havanese. Something I found useful was setting up an exercise pen, which has plenty of room for play, potty (using puppy pads), and sleep. It also has a water bowl as well.
I also hired a dog walker through Rover, which I found to be the best, since I do 30 minute checkins, the focus is less on a long walk and more on play/human interaction.
Overall, routine has helped too. Chewy sleeps through the majority of the day, but expects playtime at night. And so I spend my whole evening playing with him and taking him on walks.
I also got an Adapdil Diffuser which emits a calming hormone that helps him stay calm, since that nervous energy can get destructive.
Puzzle toys are also helpful - anything that can distract him or keep him occupied.
So far, so good! When I come home, his ex pen is still tidy, and his disposition is positive. I would be happy to get more in detail if you need! Good luck!

They do like to spend as much time as possible out their cage, but you can also provide toys and enrichment in their cage to keep them stimulated. Your idea of bowls with bedding is a good one - most rats love to dig. They enjoy actual soil even more. You can fill planters with sterile soil and bury treats or seeds or cat grass (not catnip!). You can fill containers with shredded paper or pom poms and bury treats in that too. Simple dog or rabbit toys are good for rats, and you can keep them entertained with treats wrapped up in paper or inside toilet roll tubes. These can all be used in a play pen or in their cage.

For the actual play pen, you could try this one. It folds up for storage or travel and I've found it very compact and user-friendly when I travel with my rats. The bathroom or bathtub is also a good idea, but remember to put down towels/blankets and things for them to hide under - otherwise you're going to have them pooping and peeing from fright.

If you can get two kittens (are there others in the litter?) instead of one thats ideal, they will socialize one another and are less desctctive/annoying since they play together.

For a kitten this young, a pen or crate is an absolute must. The kitten would be a danger to itself & your belongings if left to roam unsupervised for hours. There's also no gaurentee it will find the litter box in a large house. You don't want to start developing bad habits right off the bat. A pen like the one I linked below is great, and cheap. I use it for all of my foster kittens. That way they are safe & contained and it helps with litter box training. Also make sure you are purchasing a short/small litter box because a kitten of five weeks old has stubby little legs and probably can't climb into an adult sized box.

If you put her in the bathroom make sure it's warm and has plenty of bedding & toys. I love giving my fosters little hideaway beds. Make sure you are feeding her 3-4x per day (as much as she will eat), kitten food only. I would check out Kittenlady.org for lots of additional information about neonatal care. As others have mentioned, a kitten of five weeks old is very young, some kittens are not yet weaned from the bottle at that age, bottle babies often have special needs as well.

https://smile.amazon.com/ESK-Collection-ESK48-Blue-Exercise-Kennel/dp/B00SFA8KBS/ref=sr_1_11?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1541690581&sr=1-11&keywords=dog+pen

He should be fine. He might be a little skittish after this ordeal, but you are a first-time rat owner, and you guys are just getting acquainted. The occasional setback is a pretty normal occurrence. Just go slowly, and move at his pace, rather than yours.

Is there a way you could relax a bit while interacting with him? Something that would allow you to sit down, while also giving him a little bit of room to retreat from you? Bathtubs and tabletops are good, and some people find that bathroom floors work well, too. Give him a box or tunnel within this small space, so that he can hide, but encourage him to interact with you.

Another option would be to use a playpen with walls tall enough that he can't jump out, and steep enough that he can't climb them. And it should be big enough for you to sit in there with him. Something like this.

Our house isn't rat-proofable in any practical way, so we set up a playpen for them to play in and change it up every day so they don't get bored.
After a lot of looking around I chose this type of setup. I used the zip ties that came with the set (and at first when they were little reinforced the panels with gorilla tape in case they wanted to try to squeeze between them) and we fold the whole thing up and store it in the box when we are done with free play time.

We have a small litter pan that we keep in the pen when they are out playing. Most of the time they don't need it, but they have used it. We also have an 8x8in metal baking pan that we fill about halfway with water for them to drink or just play in. Sometimes I toss in peas or blueberries for them to go after. Often they just like knocking each other into the water if they are sitting on the edge. :)

Mine don't seem to be cable chewers but two of the three put holes in fabric in seconds. When they aren't in the playpen I will take one out at a time and plunk down with them on the couch. I just have to watch carefully they don't get down inside it or chew it.

Read a lot before you get rats. There is a lot to learn, but they aren't difficult once you understand what you are getting into. This reddit has a lot of helpful info and I found a lot of good resources online as well.

If a pro does the installation, they typically do all of it themselves. Digging, setting posts, cleanup, everything. BUT, if the ground is frozen, good luck finding one that will do it. Most in my country (US), won’t. Maybe they’re different up there?

As for a temporary solution for your pup, if you can’t get it done in time, try garden fencing. You drive stakes into the ground, and it can be pretty secure. Another option is something like this it’s also portable if y’all travel a lot. I hope this helps!