Reddit mentions: The best dog training leashes

We found 73 Reddit comments discussing the best dog training leashes. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 35 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

🎓 Reddit experts on dog training leashes

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where dog training leashes are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 9
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 9
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 7
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 6
Number of comments: 6
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 6
Number of comments: 3
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 3
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 2
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 2
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 2
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 2
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1

idea-bulb Interested in what Redditors like? Check out our Shuffle feature

Shuffle: random products popular on Reddit

Top Reddit comments about Dog Training Leashes:

u/ConditionZero · 3 pointsr/greatpyrenees

Hey! 7 month old Pyr owner as well. I've had quite a few dogs in my life ranging from pit bulls, kangals, dachshunds, Chihuahuas, and even two Czech Wolfdogs. I can relate a bit to the growing pains :). I feel like this is their biggest stretch in growth mentally, as a breed. They're starting to grow into their traits and genetics here, you know?

I've found that my Pyr (Ghost) responds to "timeout" very well. If he does things that are not acceptable, especially to people (being too rough, jumping, etc.) I just say "timeout!" and he goes to the corner of the room and lays on this doggie bed I have there. I'll leave him there about 30 minutes without letting him up, and once I do let him, he's very apologetic lol.

He used to jump on people a bit, especially me when I came home from work. Once I started sending him to timeout, he began to realize that if he can't interact with people in a positive manner, he is going to be taken away from them. It would especially hurt his feelings when I'd come in from a long day of work, and the second he jumped at me he'd get sent to timeout without me even petting him lol.

The jumping was an issue because my wife was recovering from a C-section, but now it's a nonfactor. He never jumps from excitement anymore, but he will if I ask him to.

As far as being on a leash goes, Ghost has little to no recall outside. He'll look at me like I'm crazy and keep moseying on about. Inside, he comes before I can even say his name.

Ghost is VERY good about staying beside me though. I bought him a very short and slightly stretchy leash (https://www.amazon.com/OneTigris-Tactical-Training-Control-Release/dp/B00W4S6SCA). Every day, I took him on a lap around our apartment complex with this leash on, woven through my belt. Whenever he went outside to pee, he was on that leash and he'd walk beside me to where he had to go, and then back upstairs.

For his collar, he has a training collar with the prongs on it that I used. Once he figured out that pulling against me wasn't very comfortable for him, and that the leash's bungee would activate and pull back on the prongs if he got too far, he stuck by me pretty easily. If he stopped to sniff something or smell, I'd keep walking until he took the hint. I worked up to going on runs with him like this as well. Now, he walks just fine beside me without the prong collar :)

For her being skittish, did you go through a lot of socialization when she was younger? Generally it's good to get your brand new puppies around a variety of other dogs of all shapes and sizes, and people of all shapes and sizes too during that 2-4 month old phase. It's not too late at 7 months though! Just ease her into it. She may be skittish at first, but she'll warm up to it. Try to take her to pet stores. Walk her around in them, let her see that people only want to pet her and love on her lol. She'll also get to meet a lot of dogs!

We got lucky with ours. He got to be around our 7 year old pit bull a lot, and he spent quite a bit of time at my wife's parents house with a 5 year old Rott/Lab mix, that same pit bull, and my wife's parents and 3 siblings lol. He is very good with babies, toddlers, children, teenagers, and adults, as well as puppies. Honestly he's about the sweetest dog I've ever seen lol.

He always tries to herd our poor pit bull around though, grabbing her by the collar and dragging her places. At my sister's house, he did the same thing to her 10 week old miniature dachshund puppy, except he was just walking around the house with the entire puppy in his mouth like it was acceptable lol. The puppy was surprisingly calm too!

---

EDIT: I know you're an experienced dog owner, so if any of this info is obvious, please don't be offended :). Sometimes you miss the little things, you know?

In summary, just spend a lot of time with her! A lot of people try to take a dog like a Great Pyrenees and force it to do what they expect something like a Lab to do. Encourage her to be the working class dog she is, and embrace the traits that make her a Great Pyrenees. Try to curb the slightly undesirable traits (barking at night) in a healthy way. For example, when Ghost barks at night staring out the window, I'll roll out of bed and go see what he's barking at. After all, he is just trying to keep us safe. I do the same exact thing every time. I'll look out the window, open it to let him look out as well, then I'll pet him lovingly and say "It's okay Ghost. You can sleep," and close the window. Pyrs are very habit oriented, and this just reinforces that hey, it's okay to bark if I think something is fishy, but maybe next time I see a leaf fall, it doesn't require barking at.

u/rileyfriley · 7 pointsr/pitbulls

Socialize and start training asap. Once your pup is past the Parvo age, start getting him to parks. He/she should be introduced to allll sorts of people. Women, men, short, tall, fat, black, white. (I know that sounds silly, but it’s important)
Also, get some dog friends! The more dogs your dog is around, the better he’ll be.
It really does make a difference in how they socialize. I have some training notes I’ll link, but keep in mind some of the stuff won’t make sense because it’s dog-specific to mine lol. Get a sturdy leash and collar/harness. I recommend the Primal Gear leash from Amazon. It’s perfect for training on the leash.
Primal Pet Gear Dog Leash 6ft Long - Traffic Padded Two Handle - Heavy Duty - Double Handles Lead Control Safety Training - Leashes Large Dogs Medium Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072144JB1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RNtQBbT8QXM0E

Remember that dogs LOVE routines. Get a routine down, and stick to it. Don’t skip out on teeth cleaning. Brushing your dogs teeth once a week, and getting them toys that are good for their teeth will go a long way. Also, when your vet recommends a teeth cleaning, which is super expensive, don’t brush it off. Trust me when I say that the few hundred you dish out for the teeth cleaning is NOTHING compared to taking care of rotting teeth when he’s older.
Fish oil pills! You can also get tasty treat forms of it specifically for dogs. I give my dogs regular fish oil pills since I have 3 of them, and it’s just too expensive for me personally to get the dog specific ones. Your vet can recommend what’s best for your pup.
If you have a Costco membership, the Kirkland dog food is high quality and compares to Blue Buffalo.
If your dogs are like mine, they need mental stimulation as well as physical. Training helps with this a lot, but there’s also really great mental toys too. Amazon has some puzzle games.
Don’t let your pup eat grapes/raisins. They’re deadly. Also, avocado seeds.


Here are my notes:
https://imgur.com/gallery/aVv4nD1
I’m happy to elaborate on any questions from the notes. I’m off work today, so I really don’t mind.

u/LucidDreamer18 · 4 pointsr/Dogtraining

I'm going to tackle a few issues here. I hope they help.

While I know Huskies are often considered to be "stubborn," it's better to look at it this way: dogs aren't stubborn, they're often extremely willing to work with humans (as long as there's no fear/abuse). It's all a matter of how motivating YOU are. If you're keeping things fun, quick, entertaining, and using absolutely amazing treats, it should be less of a challenge.

Huskies are high energy breeds. A slow click-treat (or whatever your method) won't keep him engaged. With my dog, he maintains focus and interest when I quickly toss him a treat for him to catch the instant he's done what I asked.

But I digress.

You'd REALLY benefit from a long leash. I used a 50' leash for my recall training. Since you're in an urban area, here's a 30' leash that will help you with recall.

I also HIGHLY recommend you use a good harness with your dog (if you aren't already). Since he tends to bolt after cats, if you're on a walk with him and he bolts with a regular collar (or gentle leader) he can 1) break the collar, 2) slip out of the collar, or 3) hurt himself in which case you have a bigger problem than him chasing a cat.

I'd like to mention something about recall training. Recall training, I think, is one of the hardest concepts to convey to your dog. It really is sending a message of "I will ALWAYS be more exciting than whatever you're sniffing/chasing/looking at."

There are some great videos and articles out there (and in the side bar) describing methods of recall training, but I'd like to mention that recall training should almost always be first mastered in the house. Make a game of it by calling him when he's in another room and treating him heavily. Only when he's mastered recall in the home can you move to more distracting environments. And even them, they can only gradually become more distracting. Don't put your dog in a position to fail or get hurt.

Now, on to the cat.

This is a good video showing how to get your dog to leave cats alone. Since you have one, that makes it much easier.

I won't go through the steps. The video does that well. But be sure that your dog is fully exercised and pretty tired before you attempt any training. The best training comes from a tired dog.

As far as the predatory behavior. Yes, this is a prey drive, but I think it may stem more from the fact that the cats run away from him, making them exciting. Dogs like to chase (another good way to teach recall: call him and run away so he chases you), so when he sees a cat and it runs, he wants to chase it. As he's encountered cats, and probably most have run away, he's likely associated cats with something exciting.

I hope that helps. I feel I've missed something, so please ask any questions you have :)

Edit: Since he attempts to escape the leash, I recommend an escape-proof harness. This is a good example, but I prefer ones like these

u/peanutbuddy · 1 pointr/reactivedogs
  • Harness - I use the Freedom Harness. I find it more secure than the Easy Walk and I love the option of clipping the leash in the front or back, or both. We use this for walks where we're not likely to see other dogs and when May plays on her long lead.
  • Head Halter - After trying and rejecting the Gentle Leader and Perfect Pace, we're now using the Halti. It fits better and has more padding than the others. May tolerates it.
  • Leashes - I use just a plain rope leash with a traffic loop. I tied knots along the length of the leash so I can easily shorten the length. I also have a double ended leash to use with the two clips of the Freedom Harness, but I don't use it that often.
  • Hands Free Waist Leash - I have two hands free bungee leashes from Ruffwear, a shorter one and a longer one. I love them both!
  • Long lead - I have this nylon one, it's smooth and easy on the hands. But it gets funky and gross when wet.
  • Clicker - I have so many clickers but this is my favorite one. I hook it on a wrist strap so I don't drop it when I'm out walking.
  • Treat Pouch - Somehow I have three treat pouches. This is the one I use most often. It's small but holds a lot, so I can grab treats easily and it doesn't get in the way. A tug on the drawstring keeps the bag closed. To clean it just it turn it inside out to wipe down it.
u/Zootrainer · 4 pointsr/puppy101

I love having a very young puppy go for a walk off-leash with the owner! It's an amazing way to use the puppy's natural desire to not be left behind, in order to develop a bond with the owner. However, it must be done only in safe locations where the puppy can't get near a road, or encounter another dog. Large fenced private yards are great for this, small fenced schoolyards, and some country properties that have safe areas away from roads. Puppies at this age are not likely to run away from the owner unless a dog or other person frightens them (and even then, they usually run to the owner, not away), so it's an ideal time to work on "follow me" type behaviors.

That said, if you have any doubts about the puppy's safety, a great alternative is a long line made of nylon, 15-20' long, like this one. Make sure it's very lightweight. This gives the puppy freedom to run and explore while keeping some control on him. It also opens up more locations that will be safe choices for the puppy. You'll have to manage the leash length so it doesn't cause problems for the puppy, gathering it and playing it out as needed.

Remember that at this age, the goal for all walks is for the puppy to have fun and explore, not be expected to walk along beside you in any semblance of heeling. And the puppy only needs about a 5-10 minute walk a few times a day.

u/Captain-Cuddles · -1 pointsr/Dogtraining

Please don't use any e-collars, nine times out of ten they are misused and only confuse the dog and serve to make the issue worse.

Dog Runs are secure, safe, and cheap to replace when they rust or become weak. This would be a great temporary solution while you work on come when called training.

I never, ever recommend a dog be off leash in an area that is not contained by some sort of physical boundary. That being said, I understand that plenty of people do this and it's a fairly common practice. To work on come when you'll want a long leash and two people. One person stands the length of the leash from the other and you both take turns calling the dog and giving lots of praise. Use treats, but give them out randomly. If you teach your dog they get a treat when they come they may not come if they see you don't have treats (like in an emergency situation). The other thing is never play 'chase' with your dog. It's fun. The dog loves it. You probably love it. Everyone loves it. But in that situation where you really need your dog to come right away they may not be able to tell the difference and think you're playing a game.

Use the dog run to confine your dog to a physical boundary for the time being while you train them on come when called. For added challenge you can start adding in distractions once they get really good, like having a third person toss a tennis ball in front of them or placing favorite toys along the path to you.

u/sydbobyd · 6 pointsr/dogs

Fun! I'll let you know some of my dog gear, but your preferences and dog will be different.

I usually bring three different leashes with me, depending a little on where I'm going. She can't really be off leash, so I take a 30 ft line to give her space to wander or splash in the river on a break. If the trail is too busy or the hike is a pretty short one, this often gets left behind or never used.

A basic 15 ft leash is perfect for hiking with her. It gives her a bit more space, but isn't long enough to cause much trouble getting wrapped around things, and I can easily pull her closer to me when I need. I tied a couple knots in it for easier grabbing and holding at different lengths. I can also use a locking carabiner (I always have a couple on hand) to attach the handle to my backpack for hands-free.

I also love my Tuff Mutt hands-free waist leash. It has two handles if I need to hold her closer, and I really like the bungee. The only downside is that it's a bit heavy for a leash, but I find it's worth the weight, and I'm almost always just doing day hikes so it's fine. I don't know really know how it compares to other hands-free leashes though since it's the only one I've used.

I recently got a Ruffwear Front Range harness for hikes. It is the only harness I've been able to put on her, so I really can't compare much. Seems to fit her comfortably and works well as a back-clip harness. I haven't been able to use it as a front-clip without it sliding around too much. But I don't really need the front-clip when hiking, so I'm pretty pleased with it overall. If my dog wasn't so finicky about harnesses, I'd be trying other options though. You might prefer one with a handle, I've heard good things about the Ruffwear Webmaster.

I currently have an Outward Hound travel bowl for water, but I'm not a huge fan of it. My dog doesn't always drink all the water I pour, so then I've wasted water. And I either have to put a wet bowl back in my bag or clip to the outside and hear the annoying swish of it rubbing against the bag. It's not a big deal, and it works, but I'm eyeing one of these instead.

Happy hiking!

u/stopbuffering · 2 pointsr/dogs

So, personally: I prefer a separate traffic handle; it's something I can easily attach with my regular leash, it's also something I can leave on - I often leave the traffic lead on in the car while I take the regular leash off. I also much prefer a solid bolt snap over a carabiner clip; I've had two carabiner clips twist and pop open on me, but I've never had an accidental release on a bolt snap (but, yes, this is anecdotal). I also have started clipping the poop bags and whatnot to a belt loop, just sticking them in my pocket, or bringing a small backpack. Less stuff on the leash the better as far as I'm concerned.

That said... I also completely understand getting used to a normal routine and style. So, I'll show what I like and list some things that might work for what you want.

This is my favorite leash

This is my favorite tab lead. I like no loop when I leave it on.

[For a loop, I like this traffic lead](https://www.amazon.com/Mighty-Paw-Short-Dog-Leash/dp/B07CXZGMTL/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=traffic+leash&qid=1558631975&s=gateway&sr=8-11]. Again, not a huge fan of the carabiner, but I've had so much success with Mighty Paw, so I'll trust theirs. I've also never had an issue with these particular leashes.

I also just keep a ton of cotton leads of various lengths because they're cheap and why not? I also have a few extra longer Mighty Paw leashes because, again, why not? They're sturdy and I like the look.

As for what you're looking for:

This seems to check off everything except the carabiner clip

There are also plenty of Etsy sellers that make paracord leashes: https://www.etsy.com/listing/624497277/dual-handle-leash?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=paracord+leash+double+handle&ref=sr_gallery-1-9&organic_search_click=1

If you contact them, you might be able to work out a deal where they'll custom make what you want. I've had a custom leash made and very much enjoy it.

u/teh_littleone · 6 pointsr/reactivedogs

I hope you have luck with the trainers. In the mean time, I noticed you said your SO is afraid to take him out because of his size. I have a reactive 80+ lb German Shepherd and I'm about a 115 lbs. I understand. A couple of things:

Do you have a secure, front clip harness you can use to control your dog? If not, I would suggest investing in one. It feels a lot more secure vs just using a collar that your dog can slip out of.

I recently started using two leashes to walk my GSD. I have a short bungie leash, like this, which I keep clipped to my hips. You can use a heavy duty carabiner attached to a belt or fanny pack.

Then, I have a second flat leash which has an extra handle at the base of the leash, like this, so I can get a really good grip on my GSD and pull him away if I absolutely have to. I keep the flat leash looped around my wrist, then looped around my thumb like this, close my hand into a fist around the leash and hold it tightly to my stomach.

This has increased my confidence ten fold because I know my dog cannot pull away from me if he's attached my hips, and I can still easily control him using the second handle on the flat leash. The second handle on the flash leash is a blessing for tight areas like hallways or stair wells in the apartment complex (Avoid tugging on his leash if its not necessary, this can make them more anxious).

Other tips:
---
Make sure you are playing with your dog inside the apartment as much as possible to reduce his stress, anxiety or tire him out. (Or take him the park and try to really tucker him out) Try to walk him at odd hours (like 5am, 12am) to reduce the chances you will run into things that scare him. This sucks, but it is very important that you avoid stressing him out as much as possible.

Practice your emergency exits. If you are in the hallway and see something scary, you can get away without your dog reacting and stressing out. Start in the apartment with his leash on, and practice saying "Lets go!" in a playful voice, do a u-turn, and playfully run the opposite direction. You might need to use your hands to get your dogs attention or use treats to lure him into a u-turn. You don't want to be tugging on your dog. You want your dog to think this is a fun and exciting game that is way better than facing and barking at whatever scary thing is at the end of the hall or sidewalk.

Instead of just feeding your dog cheese when he sees something scary, try turning it into a game of "Find it!". Again, start by practicing in your apartment, throw a treat a couple feet in front of you and tell your dog to "Find it!". You can start using this outside, when you don't see any distractions. Then, if your dog is far enough away to see a distraction but NOT REACT, you can try playing "Find it!" to distract them and reduce their stress. You can also use "Find it!" to get them to turn around, or throw treats at your feet so you can more easily get their attention.

Right now the goal is to avoid triggers as much as possible so if in doubt, do an emergency exit and try to get your dog out of the situation by doing a playful "Let's go!". You can play "Find it!" when you are far enough away. If your dog notices a trigger but is far enough away that he isn't reacting yet, try playing "Find it!" to distract your dog from the trigger. Always try to set him up for success, don't do it if you know he's gonna do bonkers.

Also, experiment with high value treats or rewards. Does he have a chew bone he really loves? Try bringing on the walk to distract him. Try really smelly, wet treats like hot dogs, liver or chicken.

Hopefully this will help until you maintain the situation until you can get some hands on training with a behaviorist.

u/Dusbero · 1 pointr/puppy101

The leash i wish i'd known about and used, which i now is the Halti Training lead. You can adjust how you want it, it's very versatile, long but it's for training so you hold in your right hand and walk dog on left side.

Also great if you have two dogs, i can wrap one round my waist and attach the other to both dogs and walk handsfree so i can lure, reward more easily.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00589G9YY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/oreobees · 3 pointsr/shiba

Looks like you have a good list going, remember to update your pups microchip with your address and get him/her a tag with your details.

We got a 36 inch crate and it's plenty big for our boy (he's around 30 pounds).

Puppia harness is a great starter harness, it's soft and doesn't have a bunch of metal jingling pieces which our puppy HATED on his harness our breeder gave us.

Kibble, check out dog food advisor for reviews and ratings of foods content, we were using grain free salmon and sweet potato from chicken soup for the soul, it's decently priced and well rated I can't find it anywhere atm so we're switching him back to their normal kibble.

Salmon Oil is a lifesaver in the winter, our pup gets terribly dry skin and extremely itchy without it.

Start out with a puppy kong, they sell kong fillers that are cheese and peanut butter flavored, our puppy was pretty picky at first and only ate the cheese one, didn't like frozen kongs either.

I'd start with a Basic Collar here's a Dog Tag Silencer and a Break-away collar for outdoors or dog park. A dog was choked unconscious at our park so I typically just keep our guys ID tags on his harness and don't use a collar, but if you do I definitely recommend a break-away if you are primarily using a harness with it.

Items we found useful: Bed Liner, Crate Fence, Kong, Stainless Steel Bowls (highly reccomend US made do not buy any made in China for health reasons), Zippy Paws Hide and Seek toys, Potty/accident cleaner, Potty Bells, Anti-chew Bitter Apple spray, 50 ft Leash, Retractable Leash, Soft stop Leash extender, Car Seat Belt, Car Booster Seat, Gentle Shampoo, Comb, Travel Water Bottle, Flirt Pole, Special Treats, Chew Stick, Greenies

Sorry for the HUGE list lol, feel free to ask any questions!

u/chelc · 1 pointr/dogs

I'd actually recommend a 'training lead' for recall training. They go up to 15', 20' and 30'. The flexi always has pressure on your dog's collar, so it's easy to get them to 'get the idea' to come when called. The training lead is just liked a fixed leash, but you can reel them in if necessary.

Also great if you're in a park. :)

We have this one: www.amazon.com/dp/B001MUPGLK

Also, Amazon has great prices on toys - way cheaper than the local pet supply stores.

u/gooberlx · 1 pointr/germanshepherds

My GSD is only really responsive to food when there's nothing else more interesting around, like a ball or park, so I feel the pain there.

We had to work on come, a lot. Starting off in the backyard, I'd call her in after a potty and treat her every single time. Even still, being outside was way more awesome than coming in for a treat, so I had to use a long leash and training collar. After a couple months it clicked and she came inside consistently, always being praised and treated for doing so. Once she had that, she was quick to learn a consistent recall when out and about. Did a lot of sit/stay/come, first on lead and then off, two people calling her back and forth, etc..

She's very consistent about it now, which has helped to avoid conflicts and "oops" moments at the park.

Reactivity (hackling/barking only, she's never lunged) is something we still work on. She was a small pup over the Winter, when no one else in the neighborhood was out and about. Most Winter-time socialization was in a Petco or daycare or something like that. Come Spring and Summer, suddenly people were everywhere and she wasn't thrilled about all the strangers in, what she considered, her territory. Overly excited children who'd reach right for her face were her least favorite.

I did a combination of things to work on this. 1) I'd tire her out away from people first. Even if that meant driving to another, less populated park. When she's exhausted, she just doesn't care as much. 2) I slowly introduced her to experiences from a distance, which was closed over time. (Like just sitting and watching the kids play for a while from across the street). 3) I educated the kids on my block about how to appropriately approach her, how to pet her, and simmering down around her. 4) When I had the chance, I'd try to involve a kid in her play at the park. Let them throw the ball and give treats.

She is greatly improved and even likes a number of the kids in my neighborhood now, to the point that she'll seek out a scratch or two from them on our walks. Still, there are rare occurrences that she hackles up and barks, like women and their huge hats during the Kentucky Derby, or people carrying enormous packs or large, weird objects when we're hiking/camping.



u/Lynolis · 3 pointsr/dogs

A long training lead would be a good option if you can find a safe area to take him to for exercise, and they are also very good tools to use while training recall. I've also heard of people going to baseball fields, high school track fields, and football fields that are fenced when they aren't being used. If you have any family or friends with fenced yards, consider asking if you can bring your puppy over.

What sort of activities do you do for mental stimulation? training and using puzzle toys,and playing games that challenge your dog mentally can also help to reduce energy.

u/radddchaddd · 4 pointsr/goldenretrievers

Hey! It's a Halti harness, and I have it paired with the leash.

I can't recommend it enough. It's super easy to put on and take off. Also, he gets excited when squirrels run by. I had a harness like this before, which he was easily able to pull with. With this harness, I can control him from the chest and back, which makes it really easy to keep him under control.

u/kadika · 2 pointsr/dogs

Until she/he is off leash trained (if ever) I would suggest getting one of these.

They're 50ft lines that are really light, your dog won't even know he has it on. It allows him to run around and play fetch without running off. You can also use it to teach offleash manners. Even if you don't plan on offleashing your dog, its a good idea to teach them this so if they ever do get out, they come back when you call.

Two important things to note with these though:

  1. Never try to catch the line as your dog is running, it will slide through and rugburn your hand (found this out the hard way). Also be careful of your ankles, I got caught in it and it shaved off a good half centimeter of skin and hurt like a bitch. Just make a good loop on the end and hold that and you won't have these issues =p

  2. Get your dog a harness, it will take a few times of hitting the end of the line and tugging before he/she will get used to how far they can run before they hit 50ft, and you don't want to jerk their neck while they learn. It took my sheltie about 3 or 4 tugs and then amazingly she just figured it out and always stopped just short of the end. It only took a few weeks to offleash train her, her favorite game now is to run around the house like a madwoman at the end of her walk.
u/kumquatlime · 2 pointsr/Austin

You can also buy a long line to give some more freedom in areas where it's appropriate but not safely fenced. It's like a giant leash & comes in various lengths. Also a great training tool for skills like recall:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000Y8YRG6/ref=psdcmw_3024193011_t1_B000A7UZA8

u/teachmetonight · 3 pointsr/dogs

Thank you so much for your response!

If your local trails are off-leash trails, by all means let your little one run free! But as someone else here pointed out, often those signs are meant to protect local wildlife and forest habitats. Plus, it's a good way to keep your dog from trampling through poison ivy.

We got this 30-ft lead from Amazon, and we love it! We keep it coiled tight when we're around other people/dogs, and then give her some room to sniff and explore when we're alone or making camp. Also works phenomenally well as a bear bag rope!

u/SpriteDarters · 1 pointr/servicedogs

OneTigris for gear. They have the best quality and is practical. I love their leash and vest! In addition I have a Liberty Wristband so I don’t even have to hold onto the leash! It’s so helpful with my wheelchair.

https://www.libertywristband.com
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SSGUJ68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BCR0AbY942CB4
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W4S6SDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lDR0AbPK3G3G3

u/surlylemur · 2 pointsr/dogs

Your lab will love it. Get some flea and tick prevention from your vet. I got some at walmart once and put it on my dog and he went nuts like it was burning him or something. Freaked me the hell out too so I pretty much just get the tablets now from my vet. They are expensive, but they don't make my lab act like he's being burned alive.

Most animals won't approach you. If you are worried get some bear spray, that should ward off any critters.

If you are worried about recall and your pup chasing something get a 30-50 ft lead/leash. I have both of those sizes in 5/8 inch widths and it works well when i want to let him have some freedom in parks and fields around my town but can't let him off the leash. In heavily wooded areas it might not be feasible, but it is a decent option. My guy was around 8 months when I took him to a cabin in the middle of the woods/by a lake and he took to it as well as you would imagine.

30 ft lead

50 ft lead

u/c130 · 4 pointsr/Dogtraining

OneTigris Bungee Leash is the most comfortable leash I've used, this one has small loops sewn halfway up and comes with a square carabiner so you can create a 3rd handle halfway down the leash if desired.

The material is really tough but soft, and wide enough not to cut into your hands like a rope leash. It's also got a handle right at the clip for close control on narrow paths / in traffic.

A Gentle Leader usually needs to be introduced gradually btw, it's not clear from what you've said whether you tried to desensitise him to it or whether you just clipped it on and went for a walk. It's a really weird new sensation for a dog who's never worn anything on its face. Very brief sessions with lots of high value treats, increasing duration slowly from seconds to minutes over the course of a few weeks, isn't unreasonable.

u/orphanb · 2 pointsr/AllThingsDogs

I use a Halti lead:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Training-Behaviour-Aids-Dogs/Halti-Training-Lead-BLACK-Large/B00589G9YY

I find it really good as you can change the length of the lead depending upon where you clip it. The end has a usual dog lead clip (like you use to clip the lead to the collar) and the lead has D rings along it so you can choose which one to clip the end to and therefore how long the lead is (maybe the pictures on the link will help this make sense more than my explanation!). This means I can have him on a short lead for more control or longer lead when not necessary. my SO also uses it when he runs with the dog because you can loop it around your waist and clip it.

It really comes in handy when you take the dog to a cafe/pub/whatever though, as you can just unclip the end and loop it around a (v heavy!) chair leg or something - none of the usual complications of how to secure the dog.

u/Caulle · 1 pointr/germanshepherds

> I've tried fetch, and sure, he'll chase the ball, pick it up, and then run right past me with it.

Try playing fetch while he's on leash. I picked up a super cheap 50' lead on Amazon for $12 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Y909RG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Having him leashed while teaching him how to fetch worked wonders. If he runs past you can gently step on it and then as a bonus reel him in which serves as additional recall training.

My pup's around the same age, just turned 6 months, and now I can play fetch with him off leash in the yard. He doesn't always come back (still a work in progress) so I bring a coffee out with me and just sit and wait. After a minute or two he gets bored of the "keep away" game and brings the ball back to throw it again.

Stick with it! It sounds like you're on the right track with everything. 6 months is a really frustrating time. They start to hit puberty and just get sort of stupid and forget all the rules they just learned.

u/Creoda · 10 pointsr/Zoomies

Spring return extendable leads aren't good either - https://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2014/06/11/retractable-dog-leash.aspx I use a training lead and loop it in my hand I can control how far it goes, far easier than an extendable, a simple loop around my finger provides a friction hold and I can bring the lead in better and faster than the pull and retract, pull and retract of an extendable. - Long training lead here --> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004W78JLO/

u/YahtzeeDii · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

Have you tried a martingale collar?

Also, you can find many arrangements that allow you to have two connection points with the leash -- one on the collar and one on the harness, or maybe even both on a harness. There are leashes that have two clips like this that can help with houdinis (or HOUNDinis?!). Dogs might have a harder time escaping this way.

u/ASleepandAForgetting · 2 pointsr/puppy101

Fellow Dane owner here. As far as equipment, I have this leash and it's pretty well padded. You can clip both ends to the collar/harness and make a loop out of it for easier holding and less slipping, as well.

Part of owning a giant breed dog is sizing up equipment, unfortunately. I'd recommend a Freedom Harness and buying larger sizes as needed.

Instead of just focusing on the equipment, what are you doing to teach her that walking at your side is the appropriate way to behave? You shouldn't be relying on the tools to teach this for you. Instead, you need to reward her for being in the correct spot.

I know that you say you've been remiss in her training due to an event outside of your control, but I strongly urge you to dedicate as much time to it as possible. If you think being dragged by a 50 lb dog is tough, imagine being dragged by a 130 lb dog. My male was 100 lbs at 6 months, so your window in which your puppy is "easily" controllable is closing very quickly.

u/Dynthe · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

What a cute puppy!

This is the leash that I use: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJ0N1KS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ordered it back in August and the padded handles are a nice little touch. I'm not sure why it is unavailable on amazon now. Maybe you can find it elsewhere using keywords in the description

u/xg220 · 11 pointsr/dogs

Get a 20-30 foot long line and leave it attached to her while she does her thing. When you're ready to leave it will be very easy to catch her if she tries to run from you. This will quell the reinforcement of the "game" she plays when you try to catch her. Eventually she might stop doing the behavior if it goes unrewarded long enough, but there's no guarantee with that. If you truly want to solve the problem you will have to work on her recall.

u/slamthedog · 4 pointsr/dogs

I use this. We don't have a fence so when we play outside I put the dogs on that leash.

u/SecondBee · 3 pointsr/dogs

I have this one . Highly rate it, really multifunctional and has really lasted well.

u/D8RLENE · 2 pointsr/Rottweiler

The collar is custom from MIA Dog Gear. It's heavy duty and made extremely well. https://www.instagram.com/p/Bk6YU3VA3ru/?igshid=y0zcsstouvqb

The leash is from Amazon. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00W4S6SCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M2RvDbDFBE30R

u/iOwn · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

The crate shouldn't be used as a punishment.

This sounds like training issues. I caution the possibility of over rewarding the dog.

You should not be chasing the dog to get it anywhere. The dog should recall. Get a long lead if you have to. If the dog begins to run you go to the end of the lead, not to the dog. You then call the dog and gently pull the lead until the dog comes to you. Eventually you can graduate to a leash and then one day nothing. This may take days, weeks, months depending on how badly out of control the behavior is. This programs the dog to always come to you.

In reference to the attacking, unfortunately I have no guidance to offer you that falls within the guidelines of this subreddit nor do I have any experience with dogs that get this aggressive. I have always had dogs from being a puppy and never managed aggression so I can't help you there.

u/Jourdin · 11 pointsr/Dogtraining

That's... not good barrier training. I wouldn't recommend an electric fence in the first place but if you are going to do it you have to do it right. The way that trainer did it is confusing and unfair to him. Why on earth would they have you stand outside of the fence lines? Obviously your dog wants to go to you, but in that case when he does he is getting shocked, so for all he knows the shock means it's wrong to come toward you while outside in the yard. Dogs are not good at generalizing; they learn in a very specific, quite simple way (operant and classical conditioning). You need to find a trainer who is educated about conditioning (and, ideally, uses mainly positive reinforcement methods; most positive trainers would not recommend electric fences but some may work with you if you are set on using one). You can find a positive trainer by searching on APDT.com like someone else suggested, or on the Karen Pryor website.

For now, take the collar off (no need to traumatize your dog any further) and stick to walking him or playing with him in the yard on a leash. You can buy 20-40 or even 50 foot training leads if he can't be trusted off-leash (Amazon, Walmart, or any pet store carries them). Honestly I would even recommend a tie-out or trolley style tether (Menards has them for pretty cheap!) over an electric fence; most dogs can understand leashes as a barrier, though I would suggest putting your dog on a harness with it rather than a collar in case he does run to the end of it on accident.

I don't know how much electric fences are but if you really need a fence, can't you afford a physical one?

Sorry if my comment is kind of all over the place or offensive. I'm mainly just trying to list the different options for you to consider. Not trying to judge; we all make mistakes! This can be fixed, but I would definitely remove the collar immediately so, again, no further damage is done.

u/AngelicNerd · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

I absolutely second the flirt pole if you can get your backyard fenced in. Hell, I use it in my house for Charlie (though he's only 8 lbs and I have a decent sized living room.) I also take him in the backyard with a flirt pole and long line attached to his harness. You might look into those too. Long line and Flirt Pole