Reddit mentions: The best dog training pads & trays

We found 215 Reddit comments discussing the best dog training pads & trays. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 60 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

1. Penn Plax Turtle Tank Topper – Above-Tank Basking Platform for Turtle Aquariums, 17 x 14 x 10 Inches

    Features:
  • HEALTHY, INNOVATIVE, AND UNIQUE: The Reptology Turtle Topper is essentially a basking platform that safely mounts above tanks, giving your pet a place to dry, to get warm, or just to hang out. This extra space provides a healthier and roomier aquatic environment for your pet. The Turtle Topper is designed for standard sized tanks up to 55 gallons and 13” wide.
  • RELAX WITH EASE: The textured docking ramp provides your pet with an easy climb to the upper level of the platform, where they can bask, eat, and enjoy their time above water. Moreover, the docking ramp measures 5.75” wide at its narrowest point, and is 8” long.
  • BEST OF BOTH WORLDS: The Turtle Topper features a hanging platform that sits just below the waterline, allowing your turtle to rest while being partially submerged, but can also be removed if space is a bit tight in your setup. The hanging platform measures 11.25” x 4”.
  • CONVENIENT & SPACIOUS: The basking platform consists of a clear top with ridges that allow you to mount 2 clamp-style heat lamps (not included). In addition, the central metal grill door allows heat to pass through while granting you easy access to your pet, and is easy to open, close, and lock in place. The grill door measures 7.25” x 8”.
  • MEASUREMENTS: Overall = 17” x 14” x 10” / Inside Basking Platform = 16” x 12.5” / Grill Door = 7.27” x 8” / Ramp = 5.75” x 8” / Hanging Platform = 11.25” x 4”. Fits standard sized tanks up to 55 gallons and 13” wide.
Penn Plax Turtle Tank Topper – Above-Tank Basking Platform for Turtle Aquariums, 17 x 14 x 10 Inches
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height14.2519684894 Inches
Length6.49999999337 Inches
Number of items1
Size17" X14" X10"
Weight2.54 Pounds
Width17.49999998215 Inches
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8. Real Grass Dog Potty (Disposable) - Medium 20in

    Features:
  • THE NATURAL CHOICE: Our grass is deal for using as an outdoor or indoor puppy potty. Our real natural grass absorbs smells and eliminates odors the same way actual turf does. Our grass in a box system makes this potty solution easily disposable and gets your dog used to going to the bathroom on real grass.
  • DOGS LOVE IT: There's nothing that comes more naturally for your doggy than doing their business in fresh green pads of real grass. Whether you're just out working all day and they need an inside bathroom, or you need a puppy pee training box DoggieLawn is for you!
  • SIMPLE TO USE: Just set out your pad and encourage your dog to use it once they have to go. Then when you're out at work they'll naturally go to it when they need relief. Once it's time for a replacement just throw it in the trash or green compost bin.
  • ECO-FRIENDLY: Our system is completely natural, since it's real grass, and won't end up in landfills for hundreds of years like plastic pee pads! It's the easiest to clean up, easiest to use, and looks better in your home! It's an all-in-one doggy litter box that works better than other options!
  • YOUR DOG'S BACKYARD IN A BOX: DoggieLawn was started to help pet owners live a better life with their furry companions. We provide a better solution to traditional plastic pee pads. Whatever you need we're here for you, even if you need help guiding your dogs to use pads!
Real Grass Dog Potty (Disposable) - Medium 20in
Specs:
ColorGreen
Height2.75 inches
Length24 inches
SizeMedium 24x20 in
Weight10 pounds
Width20 inches
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19. KOOLTAIL Washable Pee Pads for Dogs - Waterproof Dog Mat Non-Slip 2 Pack 36" x 41" Whelphing Pad Puppy Training Pad for Dog Playpen

    Features:
  • ☑️ Close to Life: The pee pads of this series use a simple solid color that is more popular with the public. The color design fits the home color, so it will be more natural when placed at home. Suitable for all kinds of scenes, on the floor, kennels, dog beds, sofas, car cushions, pet feeding mats, post-operative mats, garbage mats, etc.; it can be folded for easy storage and is a good choice for home travel.
  • ☑️ After Kinds of Pets Tested: Our products have been tested by us and our pets, ensuring that these pee pads can meet the needs of buyers. Our products are available in a variety of sizes, allowing buyers to have more choices. It is suitable for different kinds or sizes of dogs, such as lactating puppies, old, weak, or sick dogs. It is also used to train dogs to use the toilet indoors. At the same time, it can also be used as a bed pad or changing pad for other small pets. Such as guinea pigs.
  • ☑️ Save Money & Protect the Environment: Reusable, machine washable, eco-friendly, and you will not smell the odor caused by piled up too many disposable urine pads at home. Our washable pee pads will help you safe much money! Notice: No Ironing/ No Dry Cleaning/ No Bleach; Please don't touch the pad with sharp things, it could cause leak.
  • ☑️ Perfect Size & Top Quality Materials: The package includes 2 Pads, 36" x 41", made from 75% Polyester/15% Viskose/10% Polyurethan. Choose high-strength fabrics, can withstand multiple washings, the material is soft and skin-friendly, with high density absorption and good air permeability, suitable for pets breastfeeding, lying or sitting resting.
  • ☑️ Excellent Water Absorption: The surface absorbs water quickly. Compared with other brands of pee pads, our pads can hold more liquid per square inch without leaving water stains, the pad will prevent liquid flowing everywhere or even on the floor; in addition to quickly absorbing liquids, it can also lock in odors, restore clean air. The bottom is non-slip and waterproof, will not slip due to pet activities, and will not stain the floor of the home. Always keep the bottom dry.
KOOLTAIL Washable Pee Pads for Dogs - Waterproof Dog Mat Non-Slip 2 Pack 36" x 41" Whelphing Pad Puppy Training Pad for Dog Playpen
Specs:
ColorTurquoise
Size36" x 41" (2 Pack)
Weight0.9 Pounds
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🎓 Reddit experts on dog training pads & trays

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where dog training pads & trays are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Dog Training Pads & Trays:

u/DinkaAnimalLover · 6 pointsr/Rabbits

Hi there, send u/jennagadski a private message - she cared for a palatalized bunny and can give a lot of advice! She is a very kind and wonderful person and will share tips. :)

​

I am so sorry your little boy is sick, I will share trips with you below, it is a lot of info but please read it....

​

Feeding and Diet:

  1. This is simple, you have to supplement the food he eat by syringe feeding him. This is an absolute MUST. You cannot just wait till he starts eating on his own. Without food he will not get better. He is getting worse because he doesn't have the strength to recover. Feed him Critical Care if you have it ASAP!
    1. Get a skinny syringe and cut the tip off to make the opening wide. Mix some of his usual pellets with water until liquidy/pasty and slowly feed through a syringe every two hours (yes, you need to work from home till he improves a little). If you have a blender you can also mix in some fresh herbs. You can put a touch of banana of the tip of the syringe to make him want it more and make it easier to feed him. You can even mix in a touch of banana or some no-sugar added baby food baby food (like carrot or pumpkin or sweet potato - but not too much since it still has natural sugars). If you have Critical Care food even better, but if not pellet paste will work in the short term.
    2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iGZVYVm5Bg - how to syringe feed (put a bit of something sweet like banana on the tip to get bun to like it more)
    3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QW0Taz0MFWE - more on how to syringe feed.
    4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C0dil7iQQCU - how to syringe feed in a less stressful way (more effort but will work better sometimes)
  2. Keep feeding him from you hand - it's hard for him to eat on his on. It's easier if you help the food get into his mouth.
    1. Rub banana on hay to make it more enticing and give to him by hand.
    2. Offer fresh herbs - dill (has great gut mobility portieres), cilantro, oregano, mint, basil, parsley - these have a strong aroma and can help stimulate bunny appetite and get him to eat more. Rinse them and give them wet for extra hydration.
  3. Also provide water through a syringe the same way. He needs to stay hydrated.
  4. Also he might be gassy, go to the store and get some BABY gas drops or Infacol in Europe. Those are 100% safe and can be given anytime a tummy feels gassy. Liquid simethicone is the ingredient in Baby or Infant gas drops, which are available over the counter in drugstores and many supermarkets. administer between .5 and 1cc of liquid simethicone orally, using a syringe without needle. These can really have save your bunny’s life.

    ​

    Cecotropes:

    These are really essential to his diet, he cannot eat them on his own now. So you have to pick them up and feed them to him on a spoon by hand - if dry, moisten a little bit and may at some banana if he is refusing to eat otherwise. But basically handfeed as many of those as you can to him, and clean the rest to make sure they don't get matted in his fur.

    ​

    Cleaning butt ad feet:

    OK so you have to check on him every hour to keep him clean - this is really essential to prevent urine scald and fly strike. You should not let poop and urine be on him, so check on him every hour like a baby and clean him of.

    Now when it looks like he is really dirty, you can give him a little bath in about 1 inch of warm water - clean his paws and his butt and dry him well. Good instructions in this link http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/buttbath.html. Do this ASAP!

    Also you you can get some scissors and trim the fur around his bottom a little to keep it shorter and cleaner.

    You need to keep brushing him often to keep him clean also, and wipe his eyes with a moist clean cotton ball to remove any gunk.

    ​

    Helping him stay clean:

  5. Line his enclosure with very soft blankets to help his feet not get sores on his feet. You need to also put some pillows around the side to help him stay upright and not fall over. You are trying to make it very soft inside basically.
  6. Then on top of the blanket on the floor, line the space with adsorbent puppy pee pads. The pee will get absorbed into them vs soaked through into the blanket. You will have to change them often, but it will help.
  7. Also you can dipper him in the meantime to keep his little butt cleaner
    1. Special bunny diapers here https://bunnydiapers.com/
    2. There is also a great video at the bottom of this link on how to put on a regular newborn diaper onto a bunny http://www.disabledrabbits.com/urine-scald.html
  8. Also make him a very shallow litter tray - get an shallow pen you have - baking sheet even or a boot tray like this or this - if you make it so he can get inside he may be able to use it.
    1. Put the puppy pee pads on the bottom of it and on top some of his litter box litter so he can tell
    2. Put this in place of where his current litter box it (and take that one out)
  9. Again brush and clean his eyes for him

    ​

    Avoid depression:

  10. Spend as much time with him on the floor as you can! He may be very sad now, he needs you!
  11. Get him some things he can play with without moving much - try getting him high quality chews like here and some of the plastic toys I have listed here - like slinky and nesting cups.
  12. Give him a stuffed animal as a cuddle buddy to cuddle against which may also help him not fall over.

    ​

    You will keep giving panacur over 28 days - that is the cycle and you should hopefully start to notice involvements soon enough .... but in the mean time you need to do all those things above.... basically take full care of your baby! I hope he recovered.

    ​

    Once he is well on the road to recovery, you can begin to do some physical therapy decried in this thread to help with balance issues that remain.

    ​

    Also try to look through some resources below for treatment and how to keep him comfortable now in addition to what I said above.

    http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Head_tilt

    https://rabbit.org/head-tilt-causes-and-treatment/

    https://bunningtonpost.com/2014/08/27/care-for-rabbit-head-tilt/

    http://www.disabledrabbits.com/head-tilt.html
u/apollo87 · 5 pointsr/Dogtraining

I'm not entirely sure why the cooing at toys would work. I feel like this is just anthropomorphizing the toy and your dog's "understanding" of the situation. If it is actually working for you, it's probably the fact that you are taking away the toy from her, letting her settle, and then returning it when her energy level/fixation are more in check. The "gentle" cue is definitely nice to teach, but it is probably working due to your addition/subtraction of reinforcer. That being said, "gentle" is a tough thing to teach some high energy dogs so props to you.

Also, the exercise thing is a great point. If you exhaust your pup with a good run or hour at the park they will be far less destructive in the house. Physical stimulation and mental stimulation need to go hand in hand, and one should not replace the other.

Just a point to bring up: if your (OP's) dog is chewing things like wires, socks, etc. he probably has a lot of opportunity to do so. How are you managing his environment - supervision levels, puppy-proofing, movement throughout the house, restriction when unsupervised (crating), etc? You need to minimize or eliminate as many possibilities for your dog to "mess up" as possible and set them up for success. For example, make sure he is in "puppy proofed" rooms with all foreign objects picked up off the floor and is provided with appropriate outlets for his energy (Kongs, stuffed bones, etc). A six month old puppy probably should not have free run of the house just yet, especially since he is most likely still teething and is still learning appropriate outlets for chewing. Slowly increase his freedom once he has learned these things. Start by keeping him in one or two rooms, gated off, and slowly increase his freedom once he learns more appropriate behaviors and has matured a bit more. Am I suggesting condemning your dog to a room for life? Absolutely not. You just have to manage his environment as much as possible and eliminate possibilities for him to fail.

It would also be worth investing in some brain toys to drain more energy, such as Wobble Kongs, Busy Buddy feeders, Buster Food Cubes, etc. In fact, feeding his meals exclusively out of these toys rather than a bowl would be a great opportunity to mentally stimulate him and drain more energy. Just make sure you supervise him as some of these toys could definitely be torn up if left unattended.

Just some food for thought. Hope you found this helpful! :)

Edit: Some products I've found helpful.

Brain toys for feeding:

  • Kong Wobbler for meal times. Pretty durable and my guy can't figure out how to open it. Loves eating out of this thing, even if it was simple for him to figure out. My lab took weeks to get it though. Regardless, great brain-toy.

  • Buster food cube for dispensing. Pretty difficult to figure out.

  • Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble egg: My guys LOVE this, although the plastic just cracked on the inside after a few months. Can definitely be torn apart if left alone but super stimulating and engaging. Worth it!

  • Tug a Jug for keeping them busy when you need to do something else. Durable bottle that gets scratched up. Ours is a few months in and still kicking.

    Chew toys:

  • Kong XL for stuffing with RB, wet food, boiled chicken, etc. Strong than the regular red Kongs. Can also be frozen which increases the difficulty and time needed to get the food inside. have several I rotate out and they are basically the same shape as the day I bought them, which is impressive as my pup is a monster chewer.

  • Filled thigh bones are pretty nice. They last as a while and can be rinsed and restuffed if the bone is still in good shape. Watch out, though - some brands are more prone to cracking and splintering while others last for ever. Trial and error basis. I can't remember the brand I use that works well but it's carried at my local Farmer Supply store (I find the bones and toys at these places to generally be better quality and also cheaper than chain pet stores).

  • Meaty thigh bones are marrow filled and still have some "meat" on the exterior. They tend to last longer than the washed filled variety (above) and are "stinkier" and (I would imagine?) tastier. My guys prefer these to the plain bones since there are more goodies to get at. Downside is that they are a little stinkier at first and can possibly leave a mess, so make sure the dog is eating it on a towel.

  • Bully sticks! Make sure they are real beef tendons though. Many companies make pressed rawhide varieties to resemble the real tendons but rawhide is, IMO, less safe for dogs. Last a while and smell like bacon but made my stomach a little queasy. Dogs go nuts for them though.

  • Jolly Ball - not necessarily a chew toy but lasts a long time. Their teeth can penetrate the ball but the design is such that the ball doesn't pop. I had the variety with the rope that went through the center. The rope came off pretty quickly but the ball itself is still kicking. It is challenging to pick it up when playing fetch so he is less interested in tearing it to pieces than retrieving. It's poked through with holes but is the only ball that has lasted this long. Still going. Maybe worth checking out.
u/tokisushi · 5 pointsr/Dogtraining

Are you relying on her to CHOOSE to go outside and let herself out or are you actively participating in potty training?

If you are having problems, she is not going to correct the issue herself. Inside/outside is pretty arbitrary to a dog - so if you are allowing that freedom of choice without solid training behind it - inside, outside...whatever.

I would strongly encourage you to close up the doggy door for the next while and worth with her on leash. Get her on a regular schedule and take her outside with out to her 'potty spot'. Pick one area for her to go. If she doesn't really like wet grass, maybe setup an area with crush rocks or mulch. If it is raining, consider some kind of rain coat for her or an umbrella to keep her covered.

Take her out to her area and wait. Let her sniff and do her thing, but try to be as boring as can be. Don't cheer her on or draw attention to yourself, just let her focus and do her thing. If she goes, yay! Praise and give her a high value treat! If she doesnt, bring her back inside and crate her or put her in a puppy safe area (like a kitchen, bathroom or laundry room with baby gates) and try again in 10-20 minutes.

This is basically a puppy potty training schedule. If she is struggling with potty training and has not been 100% for most of her life, it will likely be much easier to start from the beginning.

When she is in the house, try to keep her in whatever room you are in. It really depends on the specifics of the situation, but if she is trained 75% of the time, you may be able to get away with just confining her to the same room. If accidents continue or increase with this setup, you are going to need to keep her on a dragging leash and have your eyes on her at all times while she is out and about. If you cannot keep an eye on her or need to get something done/be out of the house - crate her or put her in her puppy safe area.

If she DOES have an accident in the house, be sure you clean it with an Enzymatic Cleaner like Natures Miracle! This is very VERY important as standard carpet cleaners (even 'pet' carpet cleaners) or other chemicals may cover the scent for YOU, but your dog will still smell the old urine and continue to consider that spot a bathroom.

To review:

  • You are supervising the dog carefully within the house and restricting her access to better manage her bathroom habits.

  • Take her outside on leash on predetermined schedule (you may want to start out more frequently - every 1 to 2 hours - then slowly increase the time to every 3-4 hours). Take her to her 'potty spot' and give her an opportunity to go (give her up to 5 - 10 minutes). If she goes outside, reward with a treat and some play time! If not, take her back inside and put her in her crate/puppy safe space for 10 - 20 minutes and try again.

  • If she has an accident in the house, use an Enzymatic Cleaner to clean the mess as soon as possible.

  • Keep training positive and rewarding

  • Be patient! This process could take several months. Do not drop your guard after a week or two of success. Gradually ween her back to freedom and eventually back to allowing her to let herself out when you can bet $50 that she WILL let herself out and not go in the house.


    Bonus:

  • This sounds like it has been a problem for a while, but if it is a fairly NEW problem, it starts to get worse (even with training), or you are not seeing any improvement at all - get a vet check. UTIs are pretty common with female dogs and an underlying medical issue needs to be corrected before training will be of any value.

  • Remember that if this has been a long time habit that it will take a long time to break it. She is not used to these new rules and it could take a few weeks before she really starts to catch onto the basics.

  • Check out this article on Crate Training and our wiki article on Potty Training

  • It is up to YOU to help her be successful! If she cannot handle the responsibility of letting herself out that is OK! Help her learn the skills she needs to hold and manage her bladder THEN help her learn how to let herself out again.

  • If rain is an issue, you may want to try some counter conditioning to wet grass during non-potty times to help her feel more comfortable. Also making your potty spot stones, mulch or another surface she is more accepting of may make it easier. If she absolutely will NOT go out in the rain even with a raincoat or an umbrella (again, counter conditioning during non-critical times!) consider using a doggy box or a pee pad close to the house in a covered area (still outside but no threat of getting wet!)
u/kalimashookdeday · 3 pointsr/dogs

>Once we got him home, he's become kind of lazy? He doesn't really play much or interact with us. We bought him some toys that he'll chew on for a moment and then ignores them. He seems to prefer laying in our bedroom alone than being in the living room with us.

Who knows what his situation was before you got him, but think of it this way. The puppy was born some place, was probably moved to another place after being born (a shelter) for who knows how long, uprooted again after being adopted, and given to a couple of strangers who have now taken them to yet another strange place. In it's short life it may have very little consistency it's had to rely on - so at this point - it's just bascially "unsure" of it's surroundings and where it's at. The perceived "lazyness" is more like your puppy being extremely "cautious". I wouldn't rule out a vet visit (seems you already are going to see one) based on some infections and conditions that spread in shelters (like, kennel cough for instance).

The good thing is, training starts NOW. The key is to take things slow the first few days and part of your training regiment at this point should be to slowly introducing your dog to your home. Getting it acquainted with the weird furniture, items, and rooms. Here is a good link about things you should have already done before getting the puppy home. You can review the list and hammer out any holes. Here is an article that talks about how to handle the first night home with your pup.

A few things to keep in mind, in relation to the "training" that should begin immediately with your pup:

  • Don't let the dog have a run of the house, yet. Keep him in one room at a time and shut all the other rooms of the house. Let him poke around and sniff the rooms at first, but during the day and when you are gone do not let the dog have "the run" of the house.

  • Do you have a name for him? If so - start working immediately on his name recognition. Call him by name constantly. When he looks at you, gives you his attention, or responds in some form to his name, praise and treats! Positive reinforcement will be everything in ensuring you reward the good behaviors you want to reproduce. Simply ignore the bad behaviors by giving no attention, petting, talking, or coddling immediately after. On contrary, when he does good things, treat and praise immediately after.

  • Invest time and research into how to properly "clicker train". This will help immensely and is an extremely effective and succesful way to associate "good job" for your pet.

  • Crate Training. VERY IMPORTANT FROM THE GET GO. Read up here on how to get this accomplished. Patience and consistency and building up to longer periods in the crate are critical for success. It will takes weeks, days, and even months before you dog will be completely comfortable for long periods but again, it's a process not an "event". Don't go too fast and remember to give your dog small chunks of time to be successful. If you ask too much too soon, you won't get the results you expect. Make crating a "fun" activity and a "good" thing by offering all sorts of good things any time he goes inside. Some people have even started off feeding pups in their crate at first so they understand "good = being in crate".

  • Be sure to stock pile treats. Treats are going to be your way of rewarding the dog. In a sense, it's more deep than "reward" as it's truly the first form of communication you can give to your dog in order to tell him: "Good job." Be sure to read these tips on training a puppy and the best way to provide positive reinforcement.

  • Peeing and Pooping. Your puppy is going to have to go a lot and may go inside your home/room/dwelling. It's going to be a fact of nature you'll have to accept right away, and don't get discouraged or scold your pet for eliminating. At this phase, you don't want to instill fear into your dog by yelling at him for peeing/pooping. He won't understand at this age that peeing/pooping inside is a "no-no". Invest in pee pads and housebreaking scent spray..

  • Make sure after getting your pup used to things at your home you look into obedience and training classes. They are INVALUABLE and are extremely beneficial for not only your dog, but for yourself. A lot about owning a dog is reflecting on your leadership qualities and attentiveness to your dogs behaviors and needs. Training/Obedience classes gives you direct access to an expert who can spell these things out for you and your dog.

    >Also, eating. We were given a bag of ScienceDiet for puppies that ran out sooner than we expected. The Petco was closed that night, so we googled options and came out with a chicken-rice blend that he wolfed down. Now he's not eating the ScienceDiet we managed to procure the next day. Did we ruin his training by switching meals? Or is it possible that he's just not hungry? He hasn't eaten once today.

    Again, a lack of appetite could be a result of the added stress from being relocated to it's new home. Just make sure you have plenty of water for him to drink and always give him food at scheduled times at first, even if he eats it or not. A couple schools of thought about feeding, but I prefer to feed my dog at scheduled times, 3 times a day (GSD/Rottweilier, prone to bloat so I spread out meals). In this fashion, you can control the, as a puppy, many potty breaks your dog will need at first. Bladder control is going to be something you have to build your dog up to - it won't be able to hold it at first and prepare for accidents. Controlling the feeding will allow you to eventually notice how long and when your dog needs to poop. It will also allow you to put it on a schedule so that it doesn't need to poop in the middle of the day or times when you may be gone.

    People have recommended the "FoodAdvisor" website which I strongly suggest. Read up on different grain-free foods that are in your budget. There are lots of great foods for your dog in lots of different price ranges, you just have to do some digging for them. Using FoodAdvisors "Most Recommended" list would be a good start. I feed my GSD/Rottie Blue Buffalo Wilderness - Chicken & Rice recipe. It's about $50 for a 24LB bag and that lasts just about a month or a bit under.
u/NeuroSimulacra · 2 pointsr/aww

A crate or cage will be useful to put them up at night. This is mainly to force them to go to sleep by sitting still and contain any accidents they will have. You should put some of these in the cage to encourage the pup to use the restroom. These pads will help you train the puppy to use the restroom outside. My mix, Kacey, was quick to train so maybe yours will be too.

I'm sure people have told you, but, she will whine at inopportune times (Like night-time when you're trying to sleep). She will also not want to sleep at night so, in order to help her out, a neat trick to use is to take an old mechanical clock (one that ticks), wrap it in a towel, and put it in the crate with her. It sounds silly but it will help her go to sleep.

During the day, keep your eye on her. She'll wander around a lot and you'll be surprised how slippery they can be and how quickly hey can get out of a room, into another room on the other side of the house, and pee in your bedroom. Take this as an excuse to hold her and play with her--if she's tired, she won't be able to wander as quickly. While you're watching her, be sure to look for "The sniff".

"The Sniff", as my family and I call it, is when she'll wander around a small area, sniffing the ground. If you see this, jump up and pick her up to take her to one of those pee pads or outside. This will help her associate outside with the bathroom. This will help you train her. Be sure to praise her when she's going to the bathroom in the right place (GOOD GIRL!) but scold her if she does something wrong like keeps peeing inside. Don't scream at her, just say, sternly, "No" and look at her. This will go a long way. Chances are, she will learn the meaning of the word, "No" very quickly which is going to be handy.

Fun products to buy them are toys. Squeaky toys are going to be great but use caution, if you buy these, she will fall in love with them and squeak them endlessly. It's adorable but can be irritating if you're trying to read/study/watch TV. Make sure you get something they can chew on or they'll just chew on your furniture/shoes/books/anything they can find. An old sock with a knot tied in can be a great toy to use for tug-of-war and they're cheap to replace if they tear.

I've raised four puppies and it's a great experience but some of it is annoying. When you raise a puppy, just be patient, loving, and consistent with any reinforcement or punishment you provide. A lot more of raising them is fun than isn't and I'm sure you'll love it.

Good luck with her you WILL fall in love instantly! :D

u/engagechad · 7 pointsr/turtle

That is a red eared slider. It is quite possibly the most popular pet turtle species. These turtles are popular because they're prolific and they look like little turtles, unfortunately in a few years that little turtle will have grown exponentially. Most of the time it's a parent who bought the turtle for a kid, kid loses interest, parent doesn't know what to do...

Do not release the turt. It would die in Toronto and even if it did not, environmentally if anyone releases a non indigenous species into the wild, although it sounds harmless enough there are large implications when it comes to OTHER reptile populations. This little turt could mate and create a bunch of other turts that eat up food sources etc...

  1. Keep the turt as best you can
  2. Find a home for the turt via craigslist or a rescue

    1A.

    A 10 gallon tank would be a great starter tank for a RES this size. 10 gallon tanks usually run about $10 at petsmart or petco so there is probably a similar cost up there

    1.B

    You will need two lights to run during the day:
    1 UVB fixture with a bulb

    and 1 heat lamp. Some people splurge and purchase heat lamp bulbs specifically made for reptiles, however I have found that using a household bulb provides the same amount of heat. User a bulb that the fixture can handle.

    1C.

    The turt will need a basking platform. There are super cool options but simple and efficient is the way to go if you're starting.

    1D.

    You will need a filter. Turtles poop a lot more than fish do so when you're shopping for filters always double the GPH needed to account for the extra nitrates.

    1E.

    You will need food. Every food is different and let me tell you from experience that you can spend hours researching what is best to feed your turtle...

    Protein:

    I have learned that omnivorious turtles such as a red eared slider do well if they are started with a protein rich diet and then transition into adulthood with an omnivorous diet.

    I would suggest doing the following: go to the grocery store and buy a small Salmon fillet. It may seem silly, but it will last you a very long time. Keep the Salmon in the freezer and feed the turt a few small strips (a serving size should be thought of as, if the turts head were empty, how much food could you fit in it). Make the strips small enough so that the turtle can swallow it.

    Feeding tip: Salmon or any other form of protein such as bloodworms, krill etc... can be quite messy because of the amount of oil in the meat. Many turtle keepers (me included) prefer to feed turtles outside of the tank in order to keep the living tank clean. get a small rubbermaid tub or something, make sure it's clean of course and fill it up with enough water for the turt to float around. feed the turt in that water, when you're done, discard the water and put the fat n happy turt back in the living tank. This method lowers the frequency of water changes and keeps the tank cleaner. Handling the turtle like this to feed is also helpful to make the turtle okay with being handled.

    Calcium:

    As you will read, reptiles need calcium in order to stay healthy. Snakes need calcium in the form of rat bones, bearded dragons eat crickets but turtles do best when supplemented with a cuttlebone. There are turtle specific cuttlebones but they're more expensive and the only real different is that they do not have the hard backing that the cuttlebones for birds have. All you have to do to remove the backing is toss it in a saucepan, boil it for a minute or so, let it cool and then that backing can peel off. This also softens up the cuttlebone some. It's not easy to get the backing off in one fell swoop, but turtles don't care if the cuttlebone is in one big piece or if it's in little white chunks. Calcium supplementation is vital for young turts just as the protein is. Once a week or so is good for calcium.

    I have rambled. I am passionate about reptiles so I tend to nerd out. Anyway. Please feel free to PM me with questions, I would really love to help in any way.

    Chad
u/aquietinspiration · 1 pointr/Chihuahua
    1. I'd wait on the jackets because he will grow.
    1. Crate helped me a TON in house breaking my 2 year old chi who was not previous trained. Honestly seemed impossible otherwise.
    1. Why would you be worried about the ears?! I love my chi's super pointy ears.
    1. Mine was not a puppy when I got her. Not entirely sure here.
    1. You might be able to fit him into an extra small by using the adjustments.
    1. Not sure here. Mine barks like crazy at new people but once she knows you, she is such a lover. Perhaps if I had gotten her as a puppy she may have gotten used to new people coming and going. I guess I would suggest introducing your pup to new people on a regular basis.
    1. Of course! [Here] (http://imgur.com/a/ZN9Z1) she is! She's dear headed and her name is Minnie. My sister had run an animal rescue for years and years and I was going through a tough time so I thought I would help an animal (and myself!) and foster one. She helped me through a really tough time and there's no way I could give her up after that. They call it "foster failure" haha. She is really smart but it took a lot of hard work for me to teach her what she knows because I got her when she was already about 2 years old. She is endlessly entertaining and [here] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdD32KZb438) is a video of her getting REALLY excited over her favorite treat, "bacon" (it's not bacon... it's these chicken jerky strip things meant for dogs). She doesn't really play with toys so I only have a few for her. She has a crate with a soft pad, a doggy bed (actually a kitty bed because it was cheaper.. shhh don't tell her!), and a blanket which she sleep on every night in my bed. Also food/water dishes of course and a retractable leash as well as a harness and regular leash. She also has a lot of outfits which is totally my sisters fault haha. Overall she is pretty well behaved but she has a tough time with new people. She very well may have been neglected and/or abused before my sister and then I eventually rescued her. I love her SO much!

      You won't mess up as long as you love, care for, and dedicate time to your dog and give her the forever home that he/she deserves. Those things aren't hard at all IMO!

      Also, my friend makes collars, leashes, harnesses etc. Check out her [Etsy] (https://www.etsy.com/shop/ShihPooLover) shop. She might be able to make an itty bitty one custom for you! She doesn't have a lot of photos of the harnesses (she has a ton of collars though) but I know she does make them so just send her a message if you're interested.

      Oh and for house breaking your pup, make sure to buy something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/All-Absorb-Count-Training-22-Inch-23-Inch/dp/B00EI673B6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409385024&sr=8-1&keywords=puppy+pad). Any brand should be fine.

      edit:formatting
u/goldbat · 1 pointr/Rabbits

I buy my supplies on Amazon. (I loathe shopping with a passion, so online for me - even Peapod for groceries.) My elder guy will ONLY eat Oxbow Orchard Grass Hay so my choices are more limited. Amazon also has very good deals on Care Fresh bedding and both the Oxbow and the Care Fresh are Prime.


For the housing, cages are WAY too expensive in my opinion. This has been a great solution for us. I cooked up this system when my elder gal was paralyzed and not able to use the litter box as well as she used to. We also needed a "squishy" floor for her and Poncho's arthritis.

First layer (on top of hardwood floor): Whelping Mat - get a few to rotate. They wash up great in the laundry and we actually also use these for camping. They're soft but do absorb water (mine splash in their water dish more than drink it) and dry quickly.


Second Layer: Rubber Mats - they have these at our gym. THEY ARE AWESOME. We got a set of 6 for the rabbit area and then I bought 12 more for our workout / weights / stretching area. They clean up great with some of this Seventh Generation Spray - this spray was recommended by the coach at our kettlebell gym - it disinfects without the use of harsh chemicals or antibiotics so it's much safer for bunnies AND people. This stuff is awesome for cleaning ANYTHING.

Then we put some carpet squares, a huge "litterbox" (I use a low 24" x 36" rubbermaid w/o the lid - much better & cheaper than a "real" litter box. Oh, and of course toys.

There are all kinds of Puppy Play Pens on Amazon too. Look for Prime so you don't have to pay to ship it. If you have an enthusiastic young bunny, get the 48" H pen. It seems excessive, but my parents had a 3.5 pound little dude who could EASILY hurdle the 36"H one.

I have also used the Whelping Mats (there are smaller size ones) on top of the rubber tiles and under the litter pan to collect any "misses" - our boy bunny likes to "aim high" and overshoots sometimes.

Overall, it's very customize-able, portable, and MUCH MUCH easier to clean.

u/TelaTheSpy · 1 pointr/personalfinance

Congrats. I'm 9 months into my first child (a boy). It gets easier.

Here's one small pro-tip. If you have a changing pad with a cover, ditch the cover and buy a box of puppy pads from Amazon for a few bucks. Cut them in half and lay one half on the chanting pad. It will save you time, water and sanity. You won't be washing a pooped or peed on cover multiple times per day or week. We bought these: puppy pads and this is how it looks. . They last quite a while because your kid won't dirty them every single time but when he does, it's quick and easy to change them out.

Find baby consignment shops in your area. They are around. With the one near us we can get store credit for things we bring in. They owners are very clear about what they're making on the stuff they sell as well, it doesn't feel like a rip off.

Shop yard sales and Craigslist for baby stuff too. i.e. My wife wanted a glider chair to nurse/pump in. Got it for $100 in CL, looking basically brand new. Detailed at $600.

We were fortunate that we were given a bunch of hand me downs. Ask around. People have boxes of shit stashed in their basement/garage/attics.

Finally, don't cut out everything for you and your wife. That's not healthy. Find middle ground. I see concerts, that's my spending for me. Experiences are great to be able to file away, not stuff. Do stop gambling, I've seen first hand what that can do to families, and find a support system if you feel that gambling or anything else you deal with is an addiction.

Best of luck, and remember again, it gets easier.

u/Decht · 3 pointsr/slatestarcodex

My cat hasn't pooped in the litterbox for several years now. Rarely he'll try starting there, but he always ends up running and scattering the poop along his path. Our best guess is that he has (had?) something painful when he poops, which spooks him and makes him run away. Maybe even litter dust? There's no blood and the vets haven't been able to find anything. He seems perfectly healthy otherwise, and he's 17, so we're just resigned to cleaning it up for the rest of his life.

We use this cleaner, which seems effective enough as long as the poop is solid. Use a wet wipe to clean off the worst of it, spray the cleaner, come back with paper towels to press it dry ~15 minutes later. That's probably easier than shampooing every time, at least.

As for potential solutions, there are a couple things that sometimes help for us. We leave a paper shopping bag on the floor for him to play with, and sometimes he'll poop in one of those instead of on the floor. I've read that some cats prefer enclosed litterboxes, but we haven't tried that. Sometimes he'll start on a towel on the floor, so there might be some preference there. Towels are much easier to clean than carpet! I've considered getting some puppy pads to try, but haven't done so yet. The pads are pretty effective for my uncle's dogs, and sometimes his cats use them instead of their litterbox. On the other hand, sometimes the cats pee on the pads and then try to "bury" it, which just crumples the pads up and sometimes makes them leak, so... be alert for that possibility.

u/uhmusing · 3 pointsr/mainecoons

I currently use a corn-based littler, but as I have found in my recent research, it poses health risks. I've also learned that pine seems to be the safest (and cheapest) option out there. It will also fix the issue I have with the corn litter getting tracked EVERYWHERE, constantly, because the granules are as tiny as sand. The corn litter I use also doesn't smell and is flushable, same as the pine as I've learned. Yay!

Speaking of, you mentioned that the pellets turn to sawdust as soon as they get wet—yes, that's the case. This is why you need a littler box that has a grate type of structure with room for the sawdust to fall through and sit in another pan or reservoir. This way all you do is (1) regularly scoop out the poo and dispose of it (such as by flushing) while at the same time (2) push the pellets around so any remaining pee-created sawdust falls into the reservoir (in case the cats didn't manage it themselves), and much less frequently (3) dispose of the sawdust when the reservoir is full, which depends on how often your cat(s) urinate.

I see many sifting boxes that are tightly stacking, which doesn't leave enough room for pine pellet sawdust to fall through on its own, causing you to have to manually sift more frequently. Those systems are designed for typical clumping litters, and require you to lift up one of the (likely heavy) litter-filled boxes to repour and restack—no thanks! That's overall too much work EVERY TIME I have to clean up both cats' business.

There are many sifting litter boxes designed for pine pellet litter, and I am just trying to find the most giant one I can, because my two boys are so big. So far it looks like "Favorite High Sided Double Trayed Pine Sifter Cat Litter Box with Drawer" is the biggest one. It's 21.7" by 17.9", but I do wish it were bigger.

Also, Victorian Gardens Cattery has a refined setup of this type of litter box system (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGhQc-B3euM). I will be setting mine up like hers but with slightly bigger boxes.

​

Here are all of the pieces for one system I'm considering:

  1. Large Sifting Litter Box for sifter functionality (I will be removing tray portion)

    https://www.amazon.com/Favorite-Double-Trayed-Sifter-Litter/dp/B07BLLR4D9/ref=sr_1_39?keywords=sifting+litter+box+xl&qid=1562782153&s=gateway&sr=8-39#customerReviews

  2. XL Litter Box for sawdust reservoir to sit under sifting box (will be a tight fit width-wise but I'm told it works)

    https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/so-phresh-gray-open-cat-litter-box

  3. Absorbent Pads to line reservoir for leaks and easy cleanup

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WRTZ2JB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1GEJZ8XPRZUHC&psc=1

  4. Kiln Dried Pine Pellets for litter

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/America-s-Choice-Bedding-Pellets/39108788

    ​

    Actually, I just found this video of someone with a Maine Coon who uses the same type of litter and made his own sifter system (https://youtu.be/gjZFrTHXwr4). I'm considering this option as well, because I'll be able to come away with a much bigger box!

    Hope this was helpful!
u/Professor_Lurker · 4 pointsr/shiba

Hey there, fellow Shibe-Parent! What a gorgeous little pup! At her age, we found the most important thing is just making sure they go out frequently - at least once every 2-3 hours - and using positive reinforcement to help them to prefer doing it outside rather than in the crate. Make sure that you wait until she's done peeing when she does it outside, then give a treat and praise (we use "Good pee pees!" because we're silly like that).

In addition, there are these things you can buy from the pet store called Pee Posts, which basically smell like other dog's urine and encourage your pup to pee in a specific spot. There are a few on Amazon, but they have really low reviews (possibly because of the frustration of dealing with potty training, or how badly these posts smell!). Pee Post on Amazon

Finally, I'd recommend any tips from this video that Victoria Stillwell posted. She is a fantastic positive reinforcement trainer,
and our dog has responded almost immediately to her training techniques. here's a link to the video.

Best of luck! Our shiba is great at peeing, but she's particular about pooping far away from our yard - not sure if that's a Shiba thing or she's just a princess though. :D

edit: Oh yeah. Apparently shibas and pottying are a pretty common topic here.

u/Jourdin · 4 pointsr/dogs

No offense, but breeding her would be a terrible idea! So it's good to hear you discouraged them. A lot of people think that they want to breed their dog to "get their money's worth" - aka, earn back what they spent buying the dog. But with stud fee, vet bills, feeding puppies for 6 - 10 weeks, and so on, you're actually losing money.

If she's itchy, it could be a food allergy. Check the ingredients list on the bag of whatever you're feeding her. If it contains corn, wheat, or soy, she could potentially be allergic to one of those. Try switching her to a grain-free food (I can recommend some if you need!), and see if that helps. Grain-free foods can sometimes be slightly more expensive but it will save you money on vet bills in the long run. And switching foods is a good thing to try first; if she is allergic to a grain it will help a lot and you won't require an expensive vet appt/allergy test.

Maybe try to convince your sisters to make flyers and give away the kittens to good homes? It sounds like they have good intentions but if your family is having financial troubles, adding more mouths to feed is the last thing y'all should be doing. Also - don't shoo the mom! Especially if the kittens are still nursing.

As far as the dog barking at the kittens, look at her body language and listen to the pitch of the bark. This can tell you whether she's being playful or aggressive. In my experience there is quite a language barrier between dogs and cats, and to top that off their play behaviors are very different. Your dog probably just wants to play with the kittens, and they are probably just extremely bewildered and probably a little frightened by her.

If she doesn't like that kind of food, again, try switching brands. Simply switching to the puppy diet probably won't help. But yes, she does need puppy diet, to help keep weight on until she's a little older. TBH Royal Canin is not a very good quality brand. More on that if you're interested.

Inside, you can use wee wee pads. Put one in the spot where she normally potties (and put a new one down every time she soils it of course), and every few days move it slightly closer to the back door (or whichever door she goes out to go potty outside), until you do away with them altogether. Hopefully this will give her the idea that she needs to go to the back door to potty, and whenever someone in the house sees her at the back door they will let her out. You could also get a crate and crate train her, so she can relax in the crate unless someone is watching her closely and able to take her out to potty when she needs to. To be quite frank, 7-8 months is pretty old to be having accidents inside. She needs to be taken out every 2-3 hours, just in case, and praised heavily for pottying outside.

If you've already got a vet appointment set up, use that time to ask the vet about her itchiness. But don't listen to any food suggestions they have. Sorry, but most vets don't know crap about dog nutrition. Again, I can recommend some grain-free foods if the vet confirms she may have a food allergy.

Spaying is not always cheap, but something you can do is contact your local animal shelter or humane society branch and see if they have vouchers for low cost spay or neuter. Just ask, "Do you have any information on spay/neuter discounts?" and they should know what you're talking about.

u/Nora_Oie · 1 pointr/puppy101

Here are some more comments (I've worked in animal rescue and zoos).

First, you've tried way too many things in just 4 months and now you're about to try some more stuff. Whatever you do, at least stick with what you decide for at least a coupe of weeks. (I'm assuming the pup was about 2 months when you got him).

You have now entered into the classic "intermittent reinforcement is the strongest" territory. While straightforward operant conditioning works (where you always reward a certain behavior), intermittent reinforcement is the strongest (whatever works as positive reinforcement is only given occasionally - this locks in a behavior strong than operant conditioning).

And, you're convinced that "nothing works" even though you did intermittent conditioning AND you didn't stick with any one thing for very long. Now, you're about to change several things at once (again). If Dog likes even one of those things, Dog will continue thinking he's getting reinforced for doing what he's doing.

I'd start with getting a mesh style crate and putting a tarp under it on the floor. On top of the tarp, put several of those washable "puppy pads" (not the paper kind) and put the crate on top of that. If the puppy can still get to the pads to chew on them, get a crate with smaller mesh on the bottom.

The goal would be that even if he does pee in his crate, the pee will not be on his body. Do not put bedding in the crate at first. Then, get used to changing out those pads each day. You will have solved one of your own major problems (having to wash him all the time). You will also, hopefully - after a month or two - gotten him used to not being in his own pee.

My concern is that you now have a very confused, depressed pup. You seem to think you know what size crate is best when in fact, no crate has solved the problem. Bigger is always better for a situation like this. That's why most animal shelters have big ole concrete kennel runs. It is really unusual for a dog to be in a space where they can only turn around and lie down.

Frankly, nearly all animals placed in small cages/crates like this develop behavioral problems. I used to teach and do research at a large animal shelter and it was clear that dogs with various problems did better when in a large space. Get the largest crate you can accommodate. Make sure it has a mesh bottom.

Do not use one of those portable plastic kennels! Use a proper crate.

The behaviorist is on the right track. If I were you, I'd take several days off work and re-start with basic puppy training. Puppy goes outside immediately upon awaking from any nap, plus every hour on the hour that the puppy is awake. Reward with treat, praise, dancing, etc each time puppy pees outside.

But most important, quit changing things up. It's very concerning that he got urine scald (don't ever let that happen again!) but you can definitely fix the situation so that it's impossible for him to actually lie in urine. He may not like the mesh under his feet at first, but that's a small price to pay for him being clean.

The pads I'm mentioning should have moisture wicking ability, like these.

The pup is getting very excited over the noon walk and that adrenalin is leading to more pee. This may not solve itself until the pup is older.

You've got yourself a set of dilemmas complicated by the lack of backyard and the size of dog. But please, please quit focusing on the fact that a puppy is peeing (that's what they do) and solve the part about him lying in it (that's not normal dog behavior and I'm afraid your dog will need lots of help in getting back to normal).

u/reddyoulikeabook · 1 pointr/greyhound

I don’t, they don’t absorb enough. Total mess. That said, there is another possible solution. Doesn’t work for my girl, because she loves walks like she loves food (which is saying a lot!), but a friend of mine has a grey and she uses fresh patch. You replace it every 1-2 weeks, I believe. Amazon would deliver https://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Patch-Disposable-Potty-Grass/dp/B005G7S6UI

It works great for her grey, but it just depends on the hound. I hope this helps and best of luck!

u/meeooww · 2 pointsr/puppy101

He has un-learned that it's nice to be clean. He needs to re-turn it, so you need to change your set up.

I always tell people to buy the tall Iris pet pen.Then get a mesh potty pad or fake grass pet potty - personal preference here, you just have to get something where they can't get to and shred the pad.

Put the crate in the back of the pen - start without bedding - and then put the potty thing right in front of it. Now we've created two clear zones - a comfy sleeping zone and a pee zone. By sleeping and peeing on both surfaces, their stupid little brain eventually is like "I can pee somewhere other than where I sleep. Huh. It's kind of nice not to sleep in my pee." They sometimes start to sleep on the potty thing, but don't worry about it, it's still part of the process. Eventually, when they seem to have the idea, try introducing a little bit of bedding back in and BE CRAZY ABOUT WASHING IT. If there is a drop of pee on the bed you can backslide. So wash wash wash so it stays clean and fresh (towels or sheets are a good/cheap way to start). Over time, you can introduce good bedding.

Remember, IGs have bladders the size of acorns, so they have to pee all the time, basically. A lot of people have success with the pen set up forever, and others can take them out enough to phase back into crates.

But right now, you need to give them the opportunity to re-learn how nice it is to be clean.

A side note, buying a dog from a good breeder who potty trains them - or at least you are 100% sure they're not raised to pee where they sleep - goes a long, long, long way in this.

u/solidad · 2 pointsr/sex

Multiple options in different price ranges:

  • Puppy pads - Cheap, disposable but can feel like laying on a diaper and may not cover a big enough area depending on what you are doing.

  • Liberator throw - Has dual sided design. One side is satin the other is microfiber. About 100$. Some complaints of "zero abzorption".

  • No more wetspots - We own this. It has dual sided absorption and is basically 2 "shammy" (microfiber) clothes fused together to a waterproof (non crinkly) liner. Basically liquids from one side won't leak to the other so it can be used quite a bit. My SO is a squirter and we are swingers so we needed a towel that would last. This blanket is GREAT and has lasted through multiple washings / drying (on low) so far. Highly, HIGHLY recommend it. I would get the red and black one. Nice for more "darker" stains if that happens.

    Mattress protectors may not have the absorption you want. And then you have to take it off after every "play session." A bigger "blanket" style will be easier to just grab and throw it down as needed.
u/lVipples · 1 pointr/turtle

Hey Everyone! If you saw my other post you know that I've been looking in to setting up a new tank. While looking around i saw that this topper was on sale. Perfect timing :) I thought some people might want to pick this up since it seems like it's at a pretty good price.

Does anyone have any experience with this topper? Would you recommend just making your own instead?

Edit: Amazon Smile link for convenience! http://smile.amazon.com/Decorative-Turtle-Topper-Basking-Platform/dp/B002O09MYE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417810537&sr=8-1&keywords=turtle+topper

u/squarekat99 · 5 pointsr/dogs

I would give something like this a try! It seems great for your situation, especially if you like the idea of potty pads.
Fresh Patch Disposable Dog Potty with REAL Grass - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005G7S6UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8.NPyb6T2Z8MT

Also, a dog walker would be a great idea! Gives your dog a much needed potty break and some extra exercise. I would think you could find someone for a pretty reasonable price.

u/daps94 · 2 pointsr/cat

First off, since he is peeing in the same spots all of the time, you should consider purchasing puppy training pads and placing them in these areas so your cat is not peeing on the carpet, or the floor. And these can be easily swapped out when they are soiled. These arn't too expensive, you can probably find them at walmart, and maybe the pet section at the super market.


You can also get them on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Training-Potty-Pads-Dogs-Cats/dp/B074WZ2Q3J/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1539226119&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=puppy+pads&psc=1


I haven't had this problem with my cats and cant really advise on the getting your cat to pee in the litter box aspect, however I found a few articles on this subject, you should check them out here
https://www.catster.com/lifestyle/cat-behavior-wont-pee-litter-box
https://www.petfinder.com/cats/cat-problems/why-cat-pees-outside-litter-box/


Wish you the best of luck.

u/Kairus00 · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

As someone who has two turtle tanks sitting next to me, I'll give you some advice. Both those filters are API NEXX models. They're pretty weak canisters. Their rated gph is horrible (companies post rated gphs are low head height and with no media). I run two of these filters on my main turtle tank. My smaller tank runs a smaller version of that, but it's just a growout tank for a baby map.

Water changes are your friend. Turtles are MUCH less sensitive to water quality and quality changes than fish. They don't stress out as much, and when a fish stresses out its immune system weakens a lot, turtles don't really have the same problem.

If you build a basking area to go on top of the tank like I did, or buy a pre-made one like this (AND MODIFY IT TO FIT, look at this video) you can fill the water to the top of the tank. You'll be getting another 15 gallons or so of water in that tank, and that will help dilute the waste. Now instead of having 40ppm of nitrate for example, you'll have 30 or so... This will also make the turtles happier since they now have much more room to swim around in!

LIGHTING. What kind of bulb is in that fixture? If it's not a powersun, then you need to get another fixture and a UVB bulb.

u/s2xtreme4u · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Dog Album

is it bad that i dont know when their birthdays are? I usually get them bones when ever i go food shopping so i like to think they get a birthday at least once a month!

If I win I would love for them to have a huge bone!

the cupcake dog always makes me laugh

Happy birthday Winston!

video of them I made recently

u/g0ns0 · 1 pointr/turtles

I have two lights set up for my male slider as well as the water heater itself. One is a heat lamp and the other is a uvb bulb which is like artificial sunlight to help with colors/shell/digestion. I personally recommend a turtle topper, sliders love to swim so it allows a full tank of water as well as a basking area that you can clamp your lights on.

edit: turtle topper

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Pets

I have a 15 lb dog in a one bedroom, and a cat. I don't think this would be a problem for the time being, although at some point you'll probably want more space.

I can see how the bathroom thing would be a bit of an issue. You'll still need to walk the dog 2-3 times a day, but you may be able to pad train her for when she doesn't have the option of going outside. I looked into these at one point http://www.amazon.com/FRESH-PATCH-Disposable-Potty-Grass/dp/B005G7S6UI/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1375284347&sr=1-3&keywords=grass+pads+for+dogs

you can even subscribe and they'll be shipped every week or two. I haven't used them so I don't know how the smell would be, but it might be worth a shot! You sound like you'd take really care of the dog and are already attached, so I say go for it :)

u/badlcuk · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

Yes, you can retrain your adult dog to use indoor solutions :) I like doggy litter boxes but you can also go with a lawn style potty area. I dont really suggest pads as I find they are similar texture to carpet and that can be an issue (at least for puppies), but its up to you. These things are typically what I see locally used by seniors as nice solutions when they cannot go out as much or as fast as they would like.

u/mlsspierce · 2 pointsr/dogs

I don't know about walks, but I do know about indoor potty-training. They sell these things that I think are called puppy pads. It's like a slate of fake grass with a tray underneath (only $20) It's scented like grass and everything, so if your dog is used to going outside, this will be an easier transition than newspaper. And I think the playpen is fair. I know my Shetland sheepdogs never played unless I was around, so I know mine at least would've been satisfied with that amount of space.

puppy pad

u/Greydmiyu · 2 pointsr/ferrets

Can you ferret proof one room, preferably one you would spend time in? Block off the doorways with a clear plastic baby gate. That way you're in the room with the ferret and can let it out and interact with it even if you're doing other things. Just letting it explore, or doze, or come over and nudge at you from time to time? And, preferably, a room with no carpet.

If so, I'd say get a couple of packs of reusable puppy pads and place them in the corners of the room. Basically, if your ferret goes somewhere that isn't covered, clean it up and then drop a pad down there. Replace the pads when they get too soiled.

This way you're not spending a fortune on throw-away puppy pads, the ferret gets out time, the floors in that room are protected. It is what my wife and I do with our kidlets' room. My gaming rig is in there so they a few hours to nudge at papa for treats and snuggins while I game. They are out most of the day, it is a laminate floor so easy cleanup, but we have pads at their favorite potty spots to protect the floors.

That might be a good start?

u/JacobStyle · 1 pointr/sex

Just a heads up, if you start squirting with regularity, dirtying a towel every time will become too much of a hassle. I keep these stocked in my bedroom for my more "aquatic" partners. Cheap, easy cleanup, easy storage, and overall the best solution I've seen. You can always keep them in a little case or something if you don't like the puppies on the packaging.

u/call_me_cthulhu_ · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

aww<3 I have a dog that also needs the black kong toys so I recommend getting him a learning toy. my dog doesn't try and devour them.


one of my doggies<3

prize: would a gift card be acceptable? If not, my doggy would love this

u/WingedGeek · 2 pointsr/flying

My dogs are pretty reliable. Every morning, every evening. The issue was, I'd been at the airport late the night before, and got home around midnight. The dogs did their business. Woke up early the next day to get going ASAP. Took the dogs for a walk. My Labrador, who's Mr. Clockwork, got himself emptied, but the crazy one didn't drop off any kids. Got them to the airport and took another trip to a grassy area, nada. I knew it was a risk, but she's never had an accident in a vehicle before...

First time for everything. Luckily we were en route to spend a week at my boss' place, so I was prepared with a portable battery powered carpet shampooer, Nature's Miracle, carpet shampoo (pet formulated), paper towels, etc., so when we landed in Utah I was able to scrub everything out.

Since then, pups travel either in a crate with a vinyl floor, or, in my dogs' case, on a dog bed, resting on top of a 72x72" washable puppy pad that covers the entire interior and goes up the sides (held in place with gaffer's tape), so there's basically zero possibility of a biological contamination of the plane itself.

u/Synaxis · 2 pointsr/dogs

Yeah, unfortunately senior incontinence is one of those things you just have to adapt to. A doggy door is a good idea. If he doesn't seem to improve with trying to re-housetrain him, you can also look into a grass pad, something like this. There are a bunch of them out there, I have no idea what's best, that's just an example of one. it may be more attractive to him than the papery puppy pads.

u/derlavai · 4 pointsr/Aquariums

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002O09MYE

Although, I love the DIY aspect. Great job.

u/alyasy · 2 pointsr/roomba

I'm not sure if this is the ideal solution for you, but I protect my area rugs and door mats from the Roomba by securing them with double-sided carpet tape. This way the Roomba can't move them or get caught on the edges.

For something disposable, maybe consider puppy training pads? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Training-Puppy-Pads-Regular/dp/B00MW8G6OC/

u/Kanelet · 1 pointr/asktransgender

My surgeon suggests dropping down to once per week after 12 months post op. My impression is that this cadence is fairly standard. If you're several years postop, then you should be fine unless you're traveling for longer than a week or a week and a half.

I use one of these every time I dilate to catch the lube that falls out, they're disposable so I just pack one for each time that I'm planning on dilating during the trip. As for the friends issue, I'm out to everyone I'd be sharing a room with, so it's not really an issue for me.

u/ski3 · 1 pointr/dogs

Call your vet (before you bring the puppy home) and ask about the Parvo risk in your area. In some places, Parvo is very prevalent and you probably wouldn't want to bring him outside at all until he is fully vaccinated. In others (like where I live), it is pretty rare and the majority of vets and trainers recommend starting potty training on grass immediately.

Between 7-10ish weeks, puppies start to make surfaces preferences for where they want to go potty. The problem with potty pads is that they feel like carpet. As a result, using potty pads creates a surface preference for going potty on soft fabrics, like carpet. I'd avoid using potty pads at all costs, if possible (if you are in a high parvo risk area, check out something like the Fresh Patch, which is a patch of real grass, so your puppy can create a preference for going potty on grass

u/EdgeWhirl · 1 pointr/daddit

Hey, good to see another dad podcaster out there. I added a link to your podcast from the www.howtoraiseanawesomekid.com sidebar.

To contribute: When my son was born, we had a pack of these laying around (puppy pee pads) from training our dog. Basically, they're super absorbent tissues with a plastic-like backing, so they don't leak. Very handy during those first few months when sporadic peeing during diaper changes happened, and terrible diaper poop leaks. Really kept the changing table from becoming a biohazard.

Anyway, they fold up pretty compact, so we keep a couple in the diaper bag, a couple in the glove box, etc. Makes it so you can change a diaper anywhere.

u/YR90 · 1 pointr/Redearedsliders

If you had a 55 gallon, this would be simple. The best option is a Turtle Topper, which are made to fit 55g tanks.

There are ways of getting it to work for a 40g tank also if you want to go that route.

u/chrisma08 · 1 pointr/pics

You might want to look at one of these: Aqueon Water Changer. I'm considering one after looking at the Turtle Topper (that I think I forgot to link to in my other reply). Supposed to make that water change pretty easy.

u/Jfletcher1975 · 2 pointsr/turtle

Yup, it's the turtle topper on a 55 Gal tank.
They love it because it gives them tons of room to play and swim, and it gives them some privacy from the side.

Edit: http://www.amazon.com/Decorative-Turtle-Topper-Basking-Platform/dp/B002O09MYE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395446226&sr=8-1&keywords=turtle+topper

u/TheDerpingWalrus · 3 pointsr/turtle

This is it. I used to own one before I built a pool in my front yard for my turts. They loved it but were spooked if anyone walked by for a few months. They liked chilling on the platform underneath a lot too.

u/DJ__Drogba · -7 pointsr/personalfinance

This gave my pup a place to go if he needed and i didn't or couldn't get him out in time. Took exactly one day to train him to pee on the pad and we were good. Glad to know you are an expert though.

u/Devlik · 1 pointr/Dogtraining

Talk to you vet if you have not. Barring that check out peepads. They can be a godsend doesn't need to be those generics work well.

u/Eggowithmilk · 1 pointr/Redearedsliders

Its this one right here
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Turtle-Tank-Topper/dp/B002O09MYE/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=turtle+above+tank&qid=1567282537&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Make sure to angle the heat light towards the stairs to encourage him to go up there
And leave some food up there it’ll make him want to go bask

u/All_in_bad_taste · 1 pointr/TrueReddit

I knew a couple who had this problem. They used those training pads for dogs. kind of like: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Training-Puppy-Pads-Regular/dp/B00MW8G62E It made clean up way easier.

u/siemunster · 2 pointsr/dogs

[This grass potty pad](http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005G7S6UI?pc_redir=1397774444&3rd robot_redir=1)

Taking into consideration that he is already trained, this would be the easiest solution since grass is a familiar potty area. If you try regular potty pads or anything of that sort you'll basically be re-training him.

u/sunshinenfundip · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

they have reusable piddle pads like these I'm sure you can shop around and find reasonably priced ones

u/myparadog · 2 pointsr/AdoptMe

My advice is stay away from the high energy hyper breeds. Mix breeds can be hard to pin point so you would want to get them from a foster situation where someone has spent time with the dog.

Also there are all kinds of options such as Rover or Wag or local dog walker to come let your dog out in the middle of the day.
Security Camera for if you go that route. Also just a good thing to have to check in on your pup during the day.

Amazon also sells these sod boxes that you can train dogs to use just like a cat litter box. Fresh Patch or Synthetic Grass or I’m sure you could build your own. I’ve heard of people buying a small kiddy pool and filling it with dirt or sand for the dog to go in.

It really depends on your budget but it’s totally possible.

u/innoculousnuisance · 3 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

Dog owner here: if the mats are disposable (and possibly if they're not) then that's pee. Those are training pads for dogs that don't (yet) or can't signal to go outside to eliminate. I know owners that train on them and then use them as a long-term strategy if the dog will be unable to go outside (e.g. due to long work hours).

Edit: and yes, if an arrangement included unspoken yet untenable terms like having strange dogs in your house, you need to explain your expectations and what you won't be able to accommodate.

u/unbelizeable1 · 5 pointsr/cats

First, they didn't fly under the plane. I wasn't willing to risk that so I paid a bit more so they could fly on board the plane under my seat. We lined the inside of the carriers with Puppy Pads and changed them out when need be. Ended up only being once per cat and conveniently during our layover. We had a little bag of treats for the cats to hold them over until we reached but neither seemed too interested in food. We also had a water bottle(brought an empty one and filled it in the plane bathroom) so we could give the cats some water.

It wasn't fun and I definitely wouldn't want to do it again, but all things considered it went really smooth. The only real draw back was my one cat had serious trust issues for a good 3 months after the trip.

u/mementomori27 · 2 pointsr/turtle

Penn Plax Turtle Tank Topper – Above-Tank Basking Platform for Turtle Aquariums https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002O09MYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Gy4GzbNPHSYHH


We just bought this one though we haven't used it yet. It sits on top of the tank, giving the turtle more room to swim. Dimensions are 17" L x 14" W x 10" H

u/nasandre · 1 pointr/dogs

I've used training puppy pads to good effect! Just keep moving them closer to the door.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Heavy-Puppy-Training-25-Count/dp/B07CWHWCJZ

u/stormeegedon · 2 pointsr/dogs

Catch him before it even happens. Most dogs give some type of sign that they need to go, whether it be sniffing excessively, wandering away to a quiet area, etc. Try to figure out what signs he gives that he needs to go and once he does start to give those signs, take him outside immediately.

Consider investing in dog grass or something similar. It will be easier on you and your dog to have a potty space available right outside your backdoor.

u/100-billion-galaxies · 0 pointsr/DogAdvice

I highly recommend buffalo bones. They have a lot of flavor and take a while to finish https://www.amazon.com/Loving-Pets-Buffalo-16-Inch-Meaty/dp/B008FWOCLS

u/Ughinvalidusername · 3 pointsr/NewParents

We used doggie pads with a muslin cloth on top (since I don't know what is in those pads) and let baby air out as much as possible. Also, we would run his bum under water instead of wiping with anything. Just to cut down on irritation. Good luck!

u/EnnuiGoblin · 2 pointsr/turtle

I recommend this above tank extension for a basking platform. It takes less tank space and is much dryer and sturdier than a leg extension platform. Main drawback is that it will require a higher water level in the tank.

Penn Plax Turtle Tank Topper – Above-Tank Basking Platform for Turtle Aquariums, 17 x 14 x 10 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002O09MYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_rF8OAbTR2YWBF

u/LeftMySoulAtHome · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I guess this is sort of weird. It's for my dog when I have to leave her for a few hours. I think it'd be a nice place for her to pee. haha.

u/tas_sass · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

are you catching him in the act? Cause that's very important. If you aren't able to catch him in the act I suggest kenneling him when you are in the shower or away. If he's doing it in the same spot lay down puppy pads. You can get fabric ones that are washable. https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Reusable-Washable-Training-Travel/dp/B01IDNN278/ref=sr_1_15?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1503377383&sr=1-15&keywords=pee+pads
He might just need to be potty pad trained.

u/pickled--peppers · 1 pointr/beyondthebump

I used [Sposie Booster Pads Diaper Doublers] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00839749A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). You might also consider [waterproof pads] (https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Training-Puppy-Pads-Regular/dp/B00MW8G62E/ref=sr_1_1) under a blanket that can be easily swapped in the middle of the night.

u/blissdancefly · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

The Bruins are so much better at hockeying than Red Wings. They did the stuff with the goal-shooting so well. Not enough fights, though. Never enough fights.

Montreal sucks

u/znics · 7 pointsr/turtle

It’s on amazon, I actually have the same one, it’s called the Turtle Topper

u/valevalevalevale · 1 pointr/AskNYC

I believe they sell grass patches specifically designed for pets. Have you checked Amazon? I see several options like this.

u/Galactic777 · 3 pointsr/turtles

I got it on Amazon, it's this one. Oh he's still a baby, 3 months old a little over 2 inches.

u/Captain_Fun_Dicks · 2 pointsr/steroids

Got you. DoggieLawn Disposable Dog Potty - Real Grass - Large 24x21 inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00761ZXQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WkC7AbR017099



A lab is going to pee through this thing quick. Maybe build a frame and put some sand or kitty litter under the grass?

u/kvetcheswithwolves · 2 pointsr/AskWomen

We use puppy pads.

u/SmallVillage · -2 pointsr/Mommit

[Amazon Basics pee pads.] (AmazonBasics Pet Training and Puppy Pads, Regular - 100 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MW8G62E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bm4eAb0FF6RMG)

u/oiq011110 · 2 pointsr/Dogtraining

Alternatively (or in addition to a dog-walker): long-term confinement area. This is NOT a crate. You should have a SMALL crate as the pup's "den" or "bed" area. You then place this within the long-term confinement area.

The long-term confinement area is generally an X-PEN that contains the puppy's "bed" (the short-term confinement area; the crate), a water bowl, chew toys, and an area for pottying (preferably something to simulate grass to train the puppy to associate grass with toilet, ie https://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Patch-Disposable-Potty-Grass/dp/B005G7S6UI).

Here is an example:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kn3aSPrndH4

u/piratebjj · 3 pointsr/powerlifting

Frak-something put out a video after seeing a sports therapist, I forget her reddit tag but [here's her instagram] (https://www.instagram.com/trainhardpizzaharder/).... alternatively [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MW8G62E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_HMTwzbZX36F7V)

u/ser-pounce-alot · 1 pointr/dogs

Have you tried something like this in the house as you work on getting her to the point of going outside? I've never used them/am not recommending a specific brand, but a lot of dogs that have been used to going on grass their whole lives prefer it - maybe if you give her that option while indoors, she'll stop going on your carpet!

u/thetacohoe · 1 pointr/guineapigs

Sure thing! We have been using this brand for a while now. One night they managed to leak their entire water bottle out and the pee pad collected every drop of water!

https://www.amazon.com/All-Absorb-Training-100-count-22-inch-23-inch/dp/B00EI673B6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498181194&sr=8-1&keywords=all+absorb+training+pads

u/crackistanian · 5 pointsr/dogs

8 hours is a long time for your dog to hold her urine.
If there is no option of having someone let her out, then, I hate to suggest it, but a pee pad or [grass pee pad] (http://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Patch-Disposable-Potty-Grass/dp/B005G7S6UI) could work. Section off an area with a x-pen enclosing the crate with the pee pad at the opposite end to the crate.

u/suppohkram · 1 pointr/dogs

https://www.amazon.com/Fresh-Patch-Disposable-Potty-Grass/product-reviews/B005G7S6UI/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewopt_kywd?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews&showViewpoints=0&pageNumber=1&filterByKeyword=Tick

There are a couple right there, but there are quite a few negative reviews that also mention fleas, mold, flies, etc. I think that one person saying they ordered three with ticks was my deciding factor ha