Reddit mentions: The best dog treats

Lots of big dog stuff here! Here's some nice things for the little guys (~25 lbs and under). Many of these items are good for big dogs, too; will note them with a * sign and list them first in each section.

Treats

• Himalayan Dog Cheese Chew*: Long-lasting hard cheese chews; can be microwaved to make "cheesy popcorn" for your dog when it gets small enough to pose a swallowing hazard. Comes in a variety of sizes.
  
  
• Brushless Toothpaste*: Our dog LOVES this stuff, and it keeps his breath smelling awesome. Also helps keep his teeth clean. May want to introduce these into the dog's diet slowly, as some are sensitive to the ingredients but acclimate over time. Comes in an even smaller size for the really tiny dogs, and bigger sizes for the big dogs :)
  
  
• Freeze-dried chicken*: Easy to break into small pieces and sprinkle over your dog's kibble or regular food.
  
  
• Stella & Chewy Meal Mixers*: Great to sprinkle over your dog's regular food for both nutrition and novel taste.
  
  
• Fruitables Minis: Small and low-calorie; great for clicker-training your dog. Comes in a wide variety of flavors.
  
  
• Crazy Dog Bacon Treats*: Also small and very-low calorie; another good clicker-training tool.
  
  Toys
  
  
• KONG Mini Squeaky Tennis Balls*: Great for dogs who like either balls, squeaky toys, or both! My dog had zero interest in balls before these, and they're still the only ones he'll play with. Come in lots of sizes; not good for strong dogs who like to chew up their balls.
  
  
• Dog Tornado*: Easy introductory puzzle toy that's not too big for little dogs. Good for kibble, wet food, and treats. May be too big for dogs under 7 lbs.
  
  
• Dog Tower: Another great introductory puzzle toy suitable for small dogs. Good for kibble and small treats. Not sure how this'll hold up to big dogs, although I think it'd be fine with the gentler ones.
  
  
• JW Treat Pod: Kind of like the Kong, but better suited for gentler, 'licking'-type dogs. Easier to clean out as well, IMO; the small Kongs are so hard to get completely clean even with a brush.
  
  
• Outward Hound Flirt Pole: Fun and easy exercise, the Outward Hound version is more lightweight and suited for small dogs.
  
  Harnesses, Collars, & Safety
  
  
• Pet Stairs*: Large collection of pet stairs. Some on this page are suitable for large dogs as well.
  
  
• Hurtta Active Dog Harness*: High-quality dog harness for dogs that love to run around the outdoors in all kinds of weather and elements. Comes in a variety of sizes; for dogs 7+ lbs.
  
  
• Ruffwear Swamp Cooler*: Comes in XXS, XS, and S. Great for keeping your dog cool in the summer if you don't live in a humid area.
  
  
• Hurtta Pet Overall*: Great for rain and snow; comes in a variety of small sizes. Fit perfectly on our Pom mix and very high quality.
  
  
• Musher's Secret*: Protect your dog's paws in cold weather.
  
  
• Sleepypod Clickit*: Crash-tested car harness, comes in a variety of sizes.
  
  
• Sleepypod Mobile Carrier/Car Seat/Pet Bed: Crash-tested dog bed/car seat/carrier!
  
  
• Lil Pals Step-in Mesh Harness: For the seriously small dogs.
  
  
• Ollydog Marin Collar: Completely waterproof, rustproof, extremely durable, easy to put on...the perfect collar!
  
  Grooming
  
  
• The Stuff Detangler and Conditioner*: Keeps your dog's coat looking clean and glossy; easy to apply and doesn't have a strong odor.
  
  
• Lil Pals Grooming Kit: Miniature grooming tools for your miniature dog at a very affordable price.
  
  Edited to add more+formatting!

If you have a glass tank already, I would not get a ball python. They don't do so well in glass tanks as they have high humidity needs, and the screen tops don't hold in humidity and the glass walls don't hold heat it. It would be an uphill battle with constant stress on you and potential health issues for your snake.

Corn sakes and sand boas and hognoses do pretty well in glass tanks though, and a 40g long tank would be a good home for them.

I would suggest picking a species first, and then start researching. Some basics that you will need regardless:

1.) Hides, more than 1. Half logs can be pretty decoration but they aren't that great for a snake feeling safe in. A good cheap hide are these, which you can order online. These are well made, sturdy, dishwasher safe, and are enclosed spaces with only 1 entrance - my ball python and rainbow boa are both very happy with theirs. If you like aesthestics you can use foam and paint to make them look pretty cool using this tutorial or you can purchase some of these

2.) Heat Sources: You will need either ceramic heat emitters, under tank heaters, or both. I would recommend staying away from heat lights as you need to turn lights off at night and most snakes can see even red light. Ceramic heat emitters give off heat but not light. I don't have recommendations for these as I don't use them. I do have recommendations for under tank heaters, which are these, from the same place as the hides. You can also get heat tape from Reptile Basics and they are super helpful in making sure you have everything you need to set up with it. ZooMed or Zilla stick on pads are not that great and can break super easily. If you do end up with one of these, I suggest sticking aluminum foil to the adhesive and then attaching it with foil tape, this will make it re-usable. STAY AWAY FROM HEAT ROCKS.

3.) Thermostats. You will need 1 thermostat per heat source. This is NECESSARY. This is not something you can skip out on. Heat pads and CHE's can easily get hot enough to fry your reptiles. This is the model I am currently using for my heat sources, and other people here use them too. They don't have a lot of crucial safety features, though. I am saving up for one of these Herpstat's. You can get one with multiple probes for multiple heat sources, and it has a ton of good safety features. Tons of people here use these, so if you have questions about which one to get, someone here can answer you.

4.) Security: All snakes are escape artists. All of them. Even the one you don't see ever leave their hides. A stack of books or some rocks on the lid are not security measures. You will want to look into lid clamps, or a system that slides in and has a means of locking. I had my baby boa in an Iris Weathertight box which had 6 locking lid clamps while he was in quarantine. Now he is in an Animal Plastics t8 w sliding doors and I have a lock on them. If you have questions about if your set up will be secure enough, please post pics here and we can helpyou spot potential escape routes. Or you can just search "lost snake" or "escape" on this sub and see some of the ways snakes have escaped. But rocks and books are a guarantee to end with an escaped snake.

5.) Temp and Humidity Guages: These stick on ones are no good. They are dangerous and sometimes deadly - I don't care how cheap they are, or how much of a budget you are on, they are inaccurate and the adhesive WILL give way and your snake could get stuck to it. This is the one I use. I have the "outdoor" probe sitting on the floor of the enclosure on the hot side (under the substrate) and the unit itself sitting on the cool side. This lets me quickly see the temperature gradient and humidity.

6.) Substrate: This is going to be highly individual to what kind of snake you get and what its humidity needs are. Sand boas will need a ton more than a corn snake, for example. But pine is toxic, so avoid that. Figure out what kind of snake you are getting and plan for a substrate for them.

7.) What to Feed: you're gonna have to feed whole prey items. It is highly recommended that you feed either frozen/thawed or pre-killed. I order mine frozen thawed from either Layne Labs or Perfect Prey. I keep them in my freezer and I have a pair of feeding tongs I use to feed with. I usually take them out of the freezer and put them in the fridge the night before feeding day. When I get home from work I take them out of the fridge and set them on the counter (in a plastic bag) to get them to warm temp. Then I get some boiling water, put it in a bowl, put a plate on top of the bowl, and put the prey items on top of the plate. I do this until they reach approx 100F (use a IR temp gun if you have one), and then I run the heads under a hot water until they reach about 110F. I do this for both prey items for my ball python and my rainbow boa, even though my rainbow boa doesn't have heat pits, it's just easier cause I keep them in the same ziplock bag. I then use the tongs to dangle the prey and move it around to make it look like it's "live". Some snakes aren't picky and won't mind a room temp rodent, others will want a dance. My boa is a champ and will knock back food no problem. My ball python will want me to dance the rat around for twenty minutes while she gets into striking position and contemplates the meaning of life, the universe, and everything. Ball pythons are usually picky. Pre-killed means you buy the rodent live, and then kill it yourself, and immediately present it to the snake. You can achieve this with a euthanasia chamber or twisting the neck. Feeding live isn't really the greatest, as there is a chance the prey item will attack and hurt your snake. This is especially true of adult rats, which have sharp teeth and claws. In the wild, a snake could see a prey item and if it's not hungry, it could run away. In captivity, neither the rat nor the snake can run away, and this can lead to snakes being defensive and just trying to hide while a rat bites it fearing attack.

8.) How to Feed: In addition to this, you will probably hear about "cage agression" and needing a seperate tank to feed in. This is a lie. Your snake will not associate your hand / opening of the cage as "feeding time" unless it is the only time your hand is in there. And it won't be, you will be changing water, cleaning poop and urates, changing substrate, and more! After a snake has eating, they need at least 48 hours to digest their food. If they don't have this time, they may regurgitate the food. Regurgitation is an emergency medical event. In order to avoid this, after your snake has been feed, they should be left completely alone for 48 hours, no handling. If you feed in a seperate enclosure, this means that you will be moving your snake post-feeding. This also increases your chances of being bitten. Your hand may smell like rodent still, and your snake will still be in hunting mode, and may think your hand is seconds. So feed in your enclosure. It's less stressful for your snake, less stressful for you, and you have a much lower risk of being bitten.

That's a general overview, I may have left something out there, but I think you can get the general basics. Next you should pick a species and start asking here for more specific advise!!

I wish you and your future scale-child the best of luck!

Oh man, I am right there with you. My second dog was adopted 6 months ago. He's finally settling in and we can really see that all of the BAT work we've been doing for the past 5 months is really making a difference. Unfortunately, he's now comfortable and safe enough to exhibit those exact behaviors--resource guarding and barking for attention. This is a trying time.

First, as an ex-vet tech of 12 years, I hate the gentle leader. It seems to make dogs a lot more frustrated and it's very bad for their neck. Instead, try the Easy Walk harness--it fastens in the front and operates on a similar principle--they can't pull as much because the harness mechanics mess with their center of gravity. They can still pull, which is actually a good thing. You can work on training for pulling, which will stick a lot better than by just making it hard to pull, and they can't hurt themselves if they get overexcited and lunge unexpectedly. A dog can (and many have) break its neck lunging on the gentle leader when the owner holds on and their head is snapped back.

Dial back the expectations and set your dog up for success. If it's too distracting to practice walking nicely outside, do it inside. Do your best outside in the mean time, but focus on the learning inside. Then, when he can walk on a loose lead inside without an issue for 10-20 minutes, try moving the work outside for 5 minutes. He'll always backslide every time you move the trained behavior to a new environment because dogs don't generalize well. So, if you teach your dog to heel in the living room, you will need to remind him how to heel in the front yard and tell him that the rules he already knows apply out here as well. At first, you'll have to practice for a few minutes before entering a new environment before the dog gets it and makes you the common denominator in his good behavior.

He's a heeler, so he needs a lot more exercise than a walk after work. They are bred to herd livestock for 8-12 hours a day. His behavior is screaming "I AM BORED AND HAVE TOO MUCH ENERGY"--a tired dog is too tired to develop bad habits. In the morning, get up, feed him, and take him on a multi-mile run. Walk him when you get home, and if you can hire a dog walker to stop by in the middle of the day and walk him--do that. It's usually about $20 a day for that sort of thing. Find a fenced in area where you can let him off the leash and play fetch. Teach him to drop it--showing him that if he gives you something, something fun will happen is going to help a lot with the resource guarding.

Stop giving him rawhides. If he eats them that quickly, he's going to choke or get an intestinal blockage. Instead, get something like pizzle sticks or pig ears which are more brittle and fibrous and won't form gooey, unsoluable masses like a half chewed rawhide. An antler would be a much better chew for him. Don't get the ones that are sliced in half or quarters, they don't last very long. Get the whole ones. [These] (http://www.amazon.com/Newts-Chews-NCO-19905-Antler-Large/dp/B005FU4XBW/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HACBQ0M7TFZ3RT9PT88) have the horn material all around the tasty soft stuff while [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Naturals-Calcium-Stick-Antler/dp/B00HEF83B2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420566308&sr=8-4&keywords=antler) have all the soft stuff exposed and he'll consume it very quickly. You can even buy them in bulk. Another favorite chew in our house is a frozen beef marrow bone. Do not ever, ever give your dog a cooked bone. But, a raw bone is fine. I get them way cheaper at the pet store than what I can find on [Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Natures-Variety-Frozen-Bones-6-Count/dp/B00HYFBBH0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1420566550&sr=1-1&keywords=frozen+beef+bones), but they are relatively inexpensive and if you give it to him still frozen, he'll take an hour to get all the marrow and meat bits off and then can chew on the bone for days. We give ours a bone when we have to leave for a long time or at least once a week.

In the interim--if he growls at you, back off. He's warning you that he's not ok with what you're doing and you need to respect that. Do not ever punish him or yell at him when he growls. You're not telling him that the guarding behavior is bad, you're telling him that warning you that he's thinking of biting you is bad. So, the result of punishing him for growling will be that he will stop warning you before he snaps. That is very unsafe. We're dealing with that now--my dog's previous owners probably punished him for growling because he rarely does it before he snaps at someone. I've been heavily encouraging the growling when it happens by respecting his warning and leaving the area. In response to that, and the other work on resource guarding, he growls more frequently instead of snapping, and the overall incidence of the guarding behavior is decreasing. So rather than snapping 10 times a week, he's growling 2-3 times a week and snapping maybe once.

For now, pick up all of his toys and chews. He can only have one at a time, which you hand him and you will pick up once he's lost interest. This makes it easy for you to play the trading game, where he has a toy and you offer him a different toy or treat. Practicing that game will help a lot with the guarding. Play it as often as you can and stop when he tells you he doesn't want to play. He'll either growl to warn you off or he'll walk away. Respect his boundaries for now and work on other things that will reduce those boundaries over time. He needs to trust you guys and respecting his boundaries really builds a lot of trust. It also gives you leeway for when you have to ignore his boundaries and give him a bath, clip his nails, or pull cactus thorns out of his face.

Misdirection works only if you have something of equal or greater value to exchange. So, find some really awesome treats and work on 'drop it'. If he gets a Super Awesome treat in exchange for putting down a stick, he'll start to associate you taking what he has with a positive experience. Be really, really, ridiculously excited when he does it, especially at first. Praise heavily, use a high pitched and excited voice and shower with treats. You can either give a few by hand or you can do my favorite and make it rain.

Some of these are probably things you've already thought about, but here is my list.

Please visit /r/puppy101 !

• Kennel appropriate for his size, should be able to lay down and turn around in it. Too big and the puppy will be more prone to accidents in their kennel. (Midwest Homes makes great crates for all sizes, most come with a divider).
  
• Bedding for kennel and soft blanket. (Example)
  
• Baby blankets, just a personal thing for me - I set up a blanket and put her toys on it, it's her "play area". (Example)
  
• Stuffed toys, squeaky toys, tuggy toys, chew toys (puppy appropriate), snuggle toys - TOYS, TOYS, TOYS. Pets Smart has a buy 2 get 1 free sale, or least they did a week ago. Kong is one of the brands on sale, I highly recommend them.
  
• Teething toys for when he eventually starts teething. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000084E6V/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1 ,
  
• A Kong toy, look up how to use one and which one to buy - my puppy loves it. (http://www.kongcompany.com/)
  
• Toy bin.
  
• Treats that can be cut up into small pieces for training. I use deli Turkey and Chicken, as well as Apples & peanut butter. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H0ZJHW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HBBQKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002H3R2E/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1)
  
• A clicker, if you've decided to do clicker training. (Example)
  
• Harness.
  
• Collar and tags.
  
• Water bowl, food bowl, and mat.
  
• Food storage container, and a scoop.
  
• Treat bag. (Example)
  
• Dental care kit. (Example)
  
• Brush, or Furminator if they're going to be long-haired. (Example, Example)
  
• Shampoo and/or conditioner (Example)
  
• Leash for leash training, and a long leash for other training.
  
• Towels. Large one for drying him or his feet, and small ones for cleaning up messes.
  
• Nature's Miracle, for mess clean up. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJPSXN8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Poop bags or pooper scooper, as well as a poop bag dispenser or trash can for poop. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017SZNOW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M4QLXAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Doggy "diaper bag". I bought a tote online so I can bring stuff with me for travel (to dog park, vet, friends house, etc.) (Example)
  
• Baby gates. So many baby gates - I have two with cat doors and a large door for humans to easily walk through. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00229V2KE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
  
• Look into CareCredit or Pet Insurance.
  
• Look up Vets in your area and the costs of all their vaccines/boosters/exams/spray or neuter/rabies shots/etc.
  
• Look up your states laws on dog registration (usually occurs right after they get their rabies shot).
  
  Edit: Forgot Nail Clipps and/or a dremel.

>In terms of not letting her meet people/dogs when we walk, do I simply redirect her or cross the street?

Just don't let her meet them. I know, it sounds so simple.

Refocus her just like you would with any reactive dog, or undesired behavior generally. You want to click/treat and begin to refocus her as soon as possible, ideally before she does the undesired behavior. Once she does the undesired behavior, she needs to do something "good" for another treat so she does not associate the reward with the undesired behavior. The “good thing” is the SIT or LOOK/WATCH I mentioned in the other comment.

The key is to reinforce the good behavior so she knows that this is what to do, and meeting people is not what we do.

Don't cross the street, act normal.

>Don’t want my pup to get too chunky haha


As for treats, it really depends on the dog and what the dog likes. Some dogs hate crunchy treats while others will only take crunchy treats. It's important that the treats are small, or that you can make them small. There are a lot of treats involved, so smaller is better.

• Pocket Trainers are good, and occasionally Amazon has a sale on them so it's good to stock up when they do.
  
• Blue Buffalo Training Treats training treats are good, but expensive.
  
• Jerky is good, both chicken jerky and beef jerky are relatively cheap, available, and can be broken into small pieces for training.
  
• Dry food (kibble), just whatever you normally, use is a great lower value treat to mix in when you are giving her a lot in rapid succession (like the constant click/treat when someone is approaching). This is also cheaper than products marketed as treats.
  
  Some pet stores, especially smaller chains or non-chains, have treat samples. These are small bags so you can find out what your dog likes and what works best for her.
  
  To keep your dog from getting too big, cut her dry food (or wet food, whatever you use) down to 1/4 the regular serving at mealtimes.
  
  Supplement the reduced food at meals with vegetables mixed into the food, this way she feels fuller. You want her to get total of half her current serving of food at meals. I know this seems like a drastic cut, but she will get a lot of treats to make up for it.
  
  Whenever I've cut food less than this (such as to 1/2 current dry food plus vegetables it was not enough).
  
  If she currently gets 1 cup of kibble per meal, she would now get a total of 1/2 cup of food per meal, broken down as follow:
  
  
• 1/4 cup of dry food (or wet, whatever you currently use)
  
• 1/4 cup of vegetables
  
  If she seems to be loosing weight, you can add back in some dry food during meals.
  
  Vegetables
  
  Frozen green beans softened in water, or canned green beans if they are canned only in water.
  
  If she won't eat the green beans try canned carrots, do not use raw carrots since they can be tough on her stomach, canned carrots are already soft because of the water.
  
  
  >I just bought a clicker
  
  
  Buy more than 1 clicker, they get lost fast. Amazon usually has packs of 4 or 5 for less than 10 dollars.
  
  I also suggest a good treat pouch, just do a search on Amazon for "dog treat pouch" or "dog training pouch" and find one you like. There are a lot of them in different sizes, some have their own belt, others clip onto a belt, have a shoulder strap, or do all 3. I suggest finding one that you can wear at least 2 of those 3 ways (all 3 is best) to find out which is most comfortable for you. I would keep a clicker in the treat pouch, so you always have it. Like I said, they get lost fast.

"Dogs are not our whole life, but they make our lives whole."

I like the puppy and day of adventures ones. <3 Perfect memories of your pup.

So sorry for your loss. <3 I get all depressed just thinking about what I will do when time comes, I only hope that when it does, at least my pets have lived a happy life with the ones they love. And obviously it looks like yours did, so that makes it just a tiny bit easier.

This is my dog, Merlin, and also probably the kitten in there. He is deaf, and really dumb, but he is MY first pup I picked out, and I love him like no other, plus he is so damn cute and goofy. He also is generally good with my daughter and just a good member of our family.

An Antler for him would be awesome, they're one of his fave things and his is down to a nub, but they're expensive.

One of my shibes is super picky too! Jerky type is her favorite but meat-based treats are her preference for sure; I've found anything with salmon she usually loves. She does not like peanut butter or anything "cheese" flavored. We get Barkbox and I usually reorder what she really likes so I know I always have some on hand. I usually break up bigger jerky-style ones to make them last longer since they're more on the expensive side. I'll link some of her faves below:

• True Chews - steak jerky, duck jerky
  
• Trader Joe's salmon strips ($3.99 here in FL I believe)
  
• Zuke's Training Treats - 6 flavors (I got this when I realized how picky she was, she liked 4/6 flavors)
  
  ​
  
  She also loves string cheese. It's her #1 favorite thing in the world I think :) I sometimes get the cheap sliced meat and use that for treats on occasion if she needs to be persuaded into something or distracted! I hope this helps!!!

My add on list is for my PUP! You've "met" Lulu, right?! My husky? I think you've complimented her on how beautiful she is. Here are her lovely photos again, just in case:

Lulu!

Lulu again!

Lulu some more!

Lulu Wearing Eyebrows

Final Lulu!

Bonus video:

Dog doing tricks

---

$4.59 stuffed dog toy

$3.49 squeaky tennis ball set

$3.49 car air fresheners (also a dog item, stinky pup coming back from the beach!)

$3.74 dog toy - stuffingless duck (Lulu LOVES her babies, and she whines when she holds them in her mouth!)

$5.22 Cheddar dog treats

$3.99 Pumpkin dog treats

$3.99 Cranberry dog treats

---

28.51 in add on items! THIS IS THE MOST SUPER CONTEST I'VE EVER HEARD OF IN MY ENTIRE LIFE. If I win, I will prepare an academy-award-esque speech and take a video of my dog enjoying all of these items! You are so awesome! I'm so geeked to see who wins and all their superb items!

---

Those Himalaya's of the mind!

Yummy chummies are about $25 for a nice big bag that will last you a LONG time. The freeze dried livers are $29 for a huge tub. They are both super-stinky and fantastic for when you need a high-value reward.

Using the yummy chummies I was able to easily teach my dog to target (touch) things (hand, sticky note, bells, etc) with her nose in about 10 minutes. Just rub some treat on the target so that it has the scent and reward her with the treat when she targets.

Livers are also fantastic for toys that require the dog to solve problems (Nina Ottosson toys, for example). My dog won't stop trying to figure out the toy until she has the treat.

Of course they are also good for things like bomb-proof recalls or giving super-rewards to dogs who do their business promptly in the right places.

Never give another dog a treat without first okaying it with their owner. They might have allergies/a strict diet and you also don't want to accidentally reward them for behavior that their owner is trying to train them out of.

Having a few treats on you probably isn't too harmful, but only give them to your dog when they are away from other dogs - some dogs might get food-aggressive if they see you handing out treats to other dogs.

If you have treats on you, I recommend bringing low-odor treats that are flavored non-traditionally for dog treats. I usually bring 3 or 4 "Pumpkin and Apple" or "Vanilla" flavored dog treats in my pocket to reward my dog when she successfully recalls while distracted at the park. 95%+ of the time a dog sniffing me doesn't even realize I have treats on me with those.

When giving my dog the treat, I usually keep a treat palmed in my hand like a magician does with coins, then pet my dog and slip it in her mouth when she is away from other dogs and they aren't looking.

You can teach him how to play with the plastic puzzles; when he starts to chew on them (or otherwise not play with it correctly) say no and take it away for a minute then give it back and repeat. Give extra treats when he is on track to figuring it out to encourage that behavior. My favorite puzzle toy/feeder is the Kong Wobbler, I swear it's indestructible! There's a bone toy that's a bone with rubber cups on it that slide that has held up exceptionally as well.

Or if your dog is like mine and finds it way more fun to eat the puzzles than solve them, I recommend lots of trick training. Clicker training is so much fun and you can teach your dog just about anything with it! Sometimes I just google "cool dog tricks" and pick a random one to work on.

Nose work is also great, and it sounds like you've kind of started with the hiding treats around the house thing. I like to get boxes or cups and hide stuff under or in them while she is out of the room and then let her try to find it. If you search "nose work games" lots of good stuff comes up you can try.

Do you know any other dogs he could play with? Dog on dog play always seems to be more tiring than walks for my pup.

Hey there,
so I know you posted this a while ago but if your dog doesn't seem interested in walking maybe you need something to get them more excited like treats or a toy that they will only get during their walks. I think maybe a good special treat could be these. I would also recommend a gentle leader like this one and both are relatively affordable on amazon. It doesn't hurt them and you don't risk having your puppy choking itself. Hope this helped!

When my BN plecos were breeding, secure caves were super important. The first time they spawned was in a little hole in some driftwood. I've since had others spawn in thin glass vases (that was super cool to see) and pretty much anything secure that they can both fit into. They really like the whole thing to be enclosed- they don't like it when other fish have access to their cave- only one entrance is good. You can buy pleco caves online. If you really want them to breed, get a male and 2-3 females (so you would either have to get mature fish or a handful of younger ones to grow out and rehome as necessary). I had one male that spawned with two females each month- one would drop her eggs, leave, and then the other one would. They spawned in one of these reptile caves. I had A LOT of little plecos for a long time with that trio. Other than that, clean water and good food.

I know this is overkill to list it all out, but this is what I listed for somebody else a little while back. Yes, you're probably already doing most of it.

• Undertank heater that will give belly heat between 89f-92f on 1/3 of tank.
  Thermostat to control heater
  
• IR thermometer to do random checks of the hot side.
  
• Cold side and hot side hides. Yes, two. It needs hides that allow it to regulate its temperature while feeling safe. Place the hot side hide centered over the heat pad.
  
• Water dish: shallow and wide. This allows them to get in if they want. I've heard of some liking it. Mine has never gotten in.
  
• Moist hide: use moss or paper towels to hold moisture. Can be made from a tupperware container. Plenty of guides on youtube.
  
• Food dish: preferably slick, so that live worms can't crawl out
  
• Calcium dish: powdered calcium without d3 provided daily.
  Tank decor of your choice.
  
• Substrate: I prefer having two tank sized pieces of repticarpet so that I can swap them out for cleaning. Some people like paper towels. Others like tile. It's really down to preference.
  
  You want a digital thermostat controlling that heat pad, with the probe either between the pad and glass or right on the top side of the glass (centered on the pad). You also need to lift the tank up a bit and stick the heat pad to the glass. Airflow under the heat pad will allow it to breath and last longer.
  
  Turn off the light. Your LG is nocturnal and doesn't like the light. Turning of the light will encourage it to venture out during the day as well as at night.
  
  Here's the type of hide I like to use: http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Reptile-Cave-Medium/dp/B001F3YJ9O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463847094&sr=8-2&keywords=reptile+cave

>How often should you stop

Consider their schedule already - try to maintain their bathroom/meal/exercise schedule while on the road. Dogs thrive on routine and in scary new situations like moving across country, it can be their 'rock' to get through the transition. You will likely need to stop 4 or 5 times for potty breaks, 2 or 3 times for meal breaks (try to find restaurants that allow dogs or parks for a picnic) and once or twice a day for some exercise (long walk after a picnic/meal, finding a local dog park to let them off leash, playing obedience games in the hotel, etc).

>Is there any way to find out the closest dog parks to the highway

When you are in the car and about ready for a break - get out your smart phone and do a local search for 'dog parks'. You should be able to find them fairly easy in all major cities you pass through (smaller towns are less likely to have areas like this). If you find yourself in the middle of no where and need a break - many places will have signs for states parks, nature areas or rest stops that you can take some long walks through. If possible - plan to stop at some of the bigger 'attractions'/parks and maybe spend an afternoon hiking. Your dogs will be much more tired for much longer with a nice little adventure (and it is good for the humans, too. Being stuck in a car driving across country is tough on everyone).

>Anything I should know/be prepared for before taking a 2,200 mile trip with the pups?

• Bring a couple gallon jugs of water and bowls for them to drink out of if you have trouble finding a good dog friendly spot to water them. Consider getting something like this or this (if they will be riding in their crates).
  
  
• Stock up on chews and entertainment for the car ride. Something that will last them a while but not smell terrible (Try Himalayan Dog Chews or Deer Antler)
  
  
• If they will not be riding in their crates - they should at least be wearing a well fitting harness and be using a doggy seatbelt (it can help keep them in place and protect them in case of an accident - look for harnesses that have a crash test rating, if possible).
  
  
• Maintain your schedule as much as you can. Try to get in a good amount of tiring exercise in the morning, a nice walk in the afternoon and a walk in the evening to stretch their legs and help keep them calm.
  
  
• Do google searches in large towns/cities you know you will be passing through for dog parks, rest areas and dog friendly restaurants to take breaks at.
  
  
• Big changes like this can cause some anxiety which can lead to tummy upset - bring a lot of poop bags, enzymatic cleaner, paper towels and plastic bags with you - as well as a few different sets of towels/blankets just in case. A can of 100% pumpkin puree (not pie filling) kept in a cooler with a can cover can also help with any tummy discomfort (add a tablespoon to kibble at meal times).

I'm in a similar boat (except I've got more advance notice) and have been finding the Digital Dog Training Textbook linked-to in the sidebar to be invaluable. Highly recommend. It's a little oddly laid out and it repeats itself itself but—as it says—you're really training yourself how to train the pup, so the reinforcement works (at least for me).

Their shopping list (oddly-formatted, watch out) includes:

• At least six chewtoys to stuff with kibble and treats (The Kong Company’s Kong and Biscuit Ball, Premier’s Squirrel Dude and Football, and sterilized long bones^† are the best.)
  
• Water bowl (Only buy your pup a food bowl once he is socialized, well-trained, and has impeccable household manners.)
  
• Dog food (dry kibble) During his first weeks at home, make sure your puppy receives all food stuffed in chewtoys, or handfed as rewards for socialization and training.
  
• Freeze-dried liver for men, strangers, and children to win your puppy's confidence and as rewards for housetraining
  
  (All links non-affiliate, just tryna be helpful :)
  
  Also, I saw this recommended somewhere. I have used a similar product for our cats and it's fucking magic, so if you're concerned your pup might be stressed, I highly recommend.
  
  ^† above, /u/caffeinatedlackey recommends against these until older

honestly, you could put together an adequate setup for less than the cost of those kits if you're thrifty/crafty enough about it. the things you absolutely should not skimp on are the under tank heat pad and the thermostat used to regulate the heat pad. tanks and screen lids are easy to find super cheap on craigslist; i got my 55 gallon with the screen lid for $35. these lid clips are extremely secure and extremely cheap.

hides can be made out of things like cardboard boxes or opaque plastic containers; they just need to be barely big enough for the snake to curl up inside, with a single entrance hole, and you need at least two that are identical. things like paper towel tubes make for good additional hiding places for young snakes. the water dish can be as simple as a plastic or ceramic bowl, big enough for the snake to comfortably fit inside if it needs to soak in the water. paper towels or newspaper would be sufficient for substrate. none of this will make for a pretty tank, but it will meet all of a corn snake's basic needs.

i don't really recommend spending money on nicer hides until the snake is an adult [about three years old]. affordable and more aesthetically pleasing substrates can be found; coconut fiber bricks are super cheap and produce a LOT of substrate.

• Lupine collars and leashes - they have a great guarantee of free replacement if the dog chews up the collar or leash. Perfect for puppies. You can find them in most specialty pet shops.
  
  
• Kibble Nibble - this is an interactive toy that I recommend feeding your puppy and grown up dog from. It keeps them busy and they have to work for their food.
  
  
• Nylabones - start with the puppy ones and when your pup starts getting adult teeth move on to the regular versions. Rotate teething toys so your pup always has something interesting to chew on.
  
  
• Sterilized Bones
  
  When you buy Kongs make sure you get the large or x-large size. Don't fall into the marketing scheme where you buy as they grow. Large Kongs are great because you can stuff all sorts of things in it to keep them busy.
  
  Kong Recipes
  
  If you have an Amazon Prime account I'd order a lot from them. Free shipping saves you a lot. If you don't have Amazon Prime then you should look at ordering from a bulk pet supply place like Pet Edge. You have to order $60 worth of stuff to avoid the surcharge but you can get some good deals depending on how expensive shipping is. I try to split an order with a friend to keep costs down.

I highly recommend something like a Kong wobbler but anything you can put a full meal of kibble in is great to keep them occupied and work for their dinner. I don't think we've fed a meal in the bowl since she figured it out

Edit: For treats look for a dog food roll as even picky eaters love them, really economical as you can get like 1000 treats from the roll and easy to train with since they are soft. My trainer refers to them as puppy crack for a reason

I'm a dog fanatic, so here is a list of awesome dog supplies for under $25, for those interested!
-[vet wrap] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UELUXNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9y2-yb13E3QJH) for any time you need to help your dog with his/her boo boo.
-[large chuck it ball] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0084DRJKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9z2-ybMRKYDYG) that my puppy is addicted to.
-[topical spray] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025YKUIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mE2-ybRANQ1AN) to help with your doggos minor cuts.
-[slip lead] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QJU7FE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_9F2-ybWB9FW9J) for quick trips outside.
-[Kong Zoom Groom] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AR1A0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_DJ2-ybD5EXKZH) for brushing out those thick double coated pooches without tearing the coat or scratching the skin.
-[treat pouch] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCWAWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_LL2-yb1WKAR0N) for those fun training sessions!
-[large pet waterer] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057LAGNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TN2-ybCVJN55F) so you don't have to keep filling up a bowl.
-[Kong Wobbler] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ALMW0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zP2-ybPN8N34J) for those really fast eaters.
-[Herm Sprenger Prong Collar] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0F8702/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4R2-yb0ZM4BGR), an excellent training tool for beginner and higher level dogs when used properly.
-[Red Barn dog food roll] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008DFOG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_wU2-yb83KED07), great training treats, and you can cut them up into any size you want to.
Let me know if you want more!

You are both quite possibly the most beautiful redditors in the world!! :)

<.a href="http://www.amazon.com/Modern-PURPLE-BLACK-SILVER-Chenille/dp/B00B6PJ2HA/ref=sr_1_88?s=bedbath&ie=UTF8&qid=1371237879&sr=1-88&keywords=Bedding">Gift One<./a> I am moving out on my own again soon and I really need some bedding!
<.a href="http://www.amazon.com/Chasing-Our-Tails-100-Percent-Naturally/dp/B0053WMOKE/ref=lp_2975434011_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1371238681&sr=1-17">Gift two<./a> A treat for my best bud!

C'mon...gimme.
You guys are awesome for doing this! :)

Your best bet is to hit your local pet store and look at the aquarium and terrarium section. The reptile and aquarium sections have sand of varying levels of coarsness/fineness. (reptile's generally use very fine grade sand which works great as sand for that scale as the coarse ones used for aquariums can cause issues with blockages when ingested by lizards) .

​

Exo Terra terrarium soil is also pretty good to use for soil.

​

Terrarium Moss is great for doing shrubs and folliage.

Hi! I have a big softy German Shepherd named Jack, who also loves to destroy everything. He ate my couch! Yes, while I was at the grocery store, he ate the cushions off of my sectional sofa. He also ate a glass butter dish to get to the butter. Always while I'm at the grocery store! There was blood everywhere. My vet told me he was okay, tongues bleed a lot, and just asked how much butter he ate :| he has gotten to my shoes, my daughter's plastic chairs, lots of stuffed animals, the list goes on and on! He has mellowed out a lot now, but he can go to town on some toys!

I'm not sure how big your dog is, but how about some antlers?

This is an add on, but it has lasted a few months now for Jack. He has the dinosaur pictured.

Jack has a few balls in this style and they have lasted for forever! He loves them! They also have a similar one at target in their bins for around $5. This is another toy made from the same stuff.

He has also had this shark and a few others made like this and they last at least a couple weeks before he starts tearing their limbs off.

I have this or a Kong toy on my wish list for him :)

I worked at a high end pet store that really educated employees about the products and pet's needs and these were our best calming treats. They are not expensive online and are even on Prime if you have it. You can use them in conjunction with the thunder shirt and see how that works before turning to the vet for prescription meds. I had a lot of people with success stories that way.

You might also look into calming sprays that mimic dog's natural pheromones. This is supposed to be a good one and is also cheaper online.
Does your dog happen to be crate trained?



And just out of curiosity, what area do you live in where people are already setting off fireworks for the 4th of July?! I've never heard of that before.

I use these: https://www.amazon.com/Wellness-Natural-Training-Treats-3-Ounce/dp/B001HBBQKY

Wellness is a great brand, has good ingredients (sweet potato, carrots, apples) and my puppy likes them. Only 4kCal per treat and I usually split them for training (they're kind of partitioned to do this easily).

I've found that I need to switch around treats frequently, though, to keep them of any value. He also has liver jerky, liver loaf, Charki Puffs (https://www.amazon.com/Diggin-Your-Dog-Charki-Amazing/dp/B00AO1633S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1480950067&sr=1-1&keywords=charki+puffs), and I like BarkBox because he gets a couple of new treats each month that can be cycled in and out.

My dog has some similar play tendencies and she LOVES this ball:
ttp://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002DK26M
These treats are the perfect size and not too high in calories (and they smell delicious):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002R8SLUY
She'll nudge the ball around for hours trying the get a treat from it, even picking it up in her mouth and bouncing it against the wall! It's made from a durable plastic. I've had hers for over a year and it's good as new. Its just the right balance of work/reward and is hands down her favourite toy.
2nd runner up is a braided rope bone for thrashing about and playing tug-o-war.

Happy birthday Lucy! My dog Fenrir will be 3 on July 1st and Tuesday will be 12 in September.

If your dog is an extream chewer like my little pit is you might want to try antlers both of my dogs love them and they actually last for more than a month.

And here is my little dog being a beast trying to get his stick.

If I win please get my dogs something from their WL

My pup LOOOVES Gorilla Chews and they last him a super long time. Also when it's hot out, I like to put things inside his Kong, like peanut butter, and then freeze them. And then he has a peanut butter popsicle that lasts him for a few hours. (Pro-tip: I like freezing peanut butter the best because when it warms up and unfreezes, it's not going to get all over my carpet or anything.)

Thanks guys, on that page i found the Exo Terra ones for 3pack=6$ that will show up tomorrow so wish me luck!

https://smile.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Plantation-Quarts-3-Pack/dp/B001CY4ELE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Eco-Earth+coco+coir&qid=1570065921&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-3

I chose exo as I found exo, many had the title "eco earth" with different manf, havent been to a pet store in years and closest i know of its pets mart, since Exo Terra Plantation Soil was listed at $6 for a 3pack i figured its best to get exactly what you guys posted. I have 3 hours to order if anyone thinks Exo Terra Plantation Soil is not the best option for a first time bulk grower. But thank for the info! Much appreciated.

Meet Terra. She is a red nose pitbull mix. She'll do just about anything for a treat, including "Shut the Front Door". Like Reginald, she is a POWER chewer. When we first got her and hasn't figured that out, she preferred coffee tables D: Then, we discovered elk antlers.. For a power chewer, just make sure you get the right size, or they tend to go through them fast. Terra isn't allowed to have anything but her black Kong and an XL elk antler, and a rope that is kept away for special play time, that would otherwise become shreds around the house in a couple hours. The antlers are expensive, but Terra chews on hers for about 2 hours a day AT LEAST and she's barely made a dent. Congrats on bringing Reginald into your family!

EDIT to add a couple more pictures:

• the thinker
  
  
• the cat
  
  
• the protector

This is GREAT and keeps him busy for a bit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YHB8EI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are great for training:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TGIFUYI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I feed mine 1 cup x2 per day of this food. There are pretty clear directions on how much to feed based on weight / goal weight. Mine is on the bigger side but still in excellent shape at 50lbs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0089A66N8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Antlers are a great option (as others have reccomended). But, my dog is far more partial to Himalayan Chews. They come in various sizes, and last well even for heavy chewers.

My vet actually reccomended these because they are easier on teeth than antlers, as they are made from yak milk. They are less likely to shatter, which sounds like something that may be good for your dog.

keep in mind that I'm saying to give him treats when you get in the car and right when you start to move. He, hopefully, won't yet be in a stressed out state. You're saying "hey, somethings about to happen, associate it with Yummy treats".

If the kong won't work, maybe try one of those dental cleaning chew toys with some flavor on them:
http://www.amazon.com/KONG-StuffN-Treat-8-Ounce-Liver/dp/B00008DFK5/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1324649767&sr=8-2

http://www.amazon.com/KONG-JumpN-Jack-Dog-Large/dp/B0009YD7O8/ref=sr_1_36?ie=UTF8&qid=1324649814&sr=8-36

Hopefully the dog would be focused on the toy, and it has immediate flavor reward so there's no frustration. That way the dog would begin to associate the car movie with positive experiences.

[This is Basil!!!] (http://imgur.com/IHSzDWdThis)

I found him in the street in the middle of the night a few months ago. I've always been hesitent to get another dog since my best friend of 15 years passed. Basil loves cuddling, running and chewing [meaty bones!] (http://www.amazon.com/REDBARN-40H001-Redbarn-Ham-Bone/dp/B0017JBHMS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2QCOYVP4S90ZA&coliid=I22O796WW92GAL) Basil is probably the sweetest pup ever and on his way to becoming UKC certified to be a companion dog! Aren't they cute?

When I first bought Peaches hers I put in a bowl with Chicken Stock overnight. I have never seen her go more nuts over a toy! Other then that 1/2 a teaspoon of Peanut Butter, Liver Paste. You can also get the Kong Stuffing you don't need much so the price even's out pretty quickly. Other then that any treats that they like as long as you shove it up the top where they can't reach it, or on the side. Hope that helps :-)

My 2 1/2 year old Golden Retriever (now 80 pounds) has a box full of animals, chews, balls and tug ropes. it appears her absolute favorite is
called "Chasing Our Tails Elk Rack Snack" about an 8-9" piece of elk antler. She chews and chews and it seems to never wear down. I purchased it on Amazon in October 2012 for $20. A solid investment giving her hours of enjoyment. I'm including link but if that doesn't work the description should bring it up on Amazon's pages. Good luck - wish I could have a few more dogs around the house but mine absolutely hates other dogs. She loves humans of all sizes and shapes but goes nuts when another dog comes close. It's a bit of a pain as I have to regulate her walk times so minimize exposure to other dogs. I won't even talk about cats, squirrels or rabbits.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053WMOKE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sounds all too familiar.

If you haven't tried them yet, you might have success with puzzle bones. They're her favorite. She's already gone through two of these ones.

There's a different one she liked which was basically a narrow nylon tube. I ruined that game by hitting it against the ground until the treat popped out, so I could put a fresh one in. Once she saw that she knew to throw her bone into the air and let it hit the ground to get the treat immediately.

Next time I'm getting a dumb dog.

Unfortunately, there are more important criteria to consider when setting up a new snake aside from what you like the look of-like what will work best in the enclosure and what will give the snake the best quality of life. Just having it pushed against the back isn't a very efficient solution; after all, it can be moved, and in a clear glass tank, it can still feel exposed. Many experienced keepers also recommend having two identical hides so the snake doesn't have to choose between security and temperature, but as far as I'm concerned, as long as you've got two appropriately sized single-entrance hides, you should be okay. I use these with a few of my snakes, they work well too.

If y'all want an actual good product that you can add to your dog's meals, I use this. I just crumble a really small amount on top of their dry food and sometimes I'll add a little bit of water and mix it in. I also cut it into small pieces and use it for training. It's a great high-value training treat.

Our boxer has a special love for destroying things, but a few toys that have managed to last:

• Good old fashioned Kong's
  
• Pocket Treat thing from JW -Obsessed with this thing
  
• Chuckit Kick it - Purchased after she loved a foam soccer ball to death
  
• Chuckit Rebounce - only tennis ball/fetch balls that don't get crushed to smithereens
  
• Tuffy soft toys - she wanted to rip all the stuffing out when she first got it, but besides that first little tear its held up
  
• We've also braided together old sheets to make long tug of war toys, the solid sheet fabric seems to hold up better than regular rope toys.
  

This will vary by ferret. The most common thing to use is long grain rice or pinto beans. Both are great, but only if your ferret doesn't eat them!

Other options are playsand, coconut fiber, and "plantation soil". Coconut fiber and plantation soil have worked best in my business. You do have to keep it a bit moist though or it gets too dusty for them.

Great write up! We've been muzzle training May for a while now and just started using it on walks.

I highly recommend using squeezable food for muzzle training! It's much easier than trying to feeding individual treats through the muzzle. May is obsessed with this Kong liver-flavored paste, but you can also use squeeze tubes filled with pureed dog food or Easy Cheese/Cheez Whiz sprayable cheese.

Our cats used to go nuts for these! Granted, ee never had dogs, but it is advertised as being made for both species.

Halo Liv-A-Littles Grain Free Natural Dog Treats & Cat Treats, Freeze Dried Chicken Breast, 2.2-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00027CL5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AUi3CbG6M6WY3

We recently bought these chew things for our pup to try: Virbac C.E.T. Enzymatic Oral Hygiene... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P3NU30?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Have to say, they smell a bit like medicine because of the enzymes, we only gave one so far to try. However, she’s been chewing on the one for about three weeks now, so they seem to last and should be good for teeth. Our vet recommended as a teeth cleaning alternative, so we shall see. Hope this helps :)

We periodically buy beef femurs (long leg bone) for our dogs. They last for weeks. Our vet told us to only give our dogs weight-bearing cow bones because they're stronger and don't splinter. So, femurs, knee caps, and cow knuckles are all we allow; along with pig ears once in a while. I'd buy them locally, but this is what they look like:


Beef femur


Cow knee caps


Cow knuckles


A Kong filled with frozen peanut butter and dog food is fun, too. Here is a list of safe foods to put into a Kong


Whatever you decide, know that you have to inspect toys and bones frequently, you need to remove dangerous or worn objects, and so on.

https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Plantation-Quarts-3-Pack/dp/B001CY4ELE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=Exo+Terra+Plantation+Soil%2C+8+Quarts%2C+3-Pack&qid=1555796983&s=gateway&sr=8-2

This is a good option on Amazon. But you can find any really, that's Amazon's best choice. Kiwi is about 1 - 1.5 years old. We took her in ♡ so we're not 100% sure.

Here are my dogs being a beast Ike the Rhodesian Ridgeback/Boxer mix (Can you tell which one he is?) and the runt of the litter Boxer Roxi. They don't mess around when people come around.

Lucy definitely needs this antler for her birthday, I don't think she'd be able to chew threw this bad boy (That's a challenge)

Beautiful dog!

#1
Because I will need refreshments while studying

[#2] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0030HMQTS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=EPS3TS5HDN6C&coliid=I1RU8CYY4TTINL)
Because I need to look good while studying

[#3] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006R9JXZG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=QE8F4372V12A&coliid=I278R7PDI8I7XK&psc=1)
Because I will wave these magic wands and conjure up a new hat

[#4] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZDNZYM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=T2W93XK4UYF3&coliid=IUYVA44S5HNZL)
Because I think this may be one of the textbooks

[#5] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GBLK5I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1IW6H9DRTQ7C7&coliid=IR6NCVAZL9G7U)
Because it's always good to prepared for emergencies, especially when studying magic

[Bonus] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FZ147G/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3MTF6KZZSOOJR&coliid=I1F3K42FC1LC46&psc=1)
Because I need my dog to chill out so I can study

Haven't seen anyone say this here yet and it's been a life-saver for me: Lacrosse Balls. They are a hard rubbery material that they can't destroy. Mine love theirs. She was always a tennis ball freak, but tore them apart in seconds. Also, Elk Antler is expensive but lasts a long time and is healthier for your dog than bones.


Edit: I've also had good luck with Jolly Balls for a good soccer/basketball sized toy. They are made of a real tough material, but are also kind of bouncy. I've had the same one for about 3 years now with no holes.

We've had good experiences with Fruitables Crunchy Dog Treats, all of them are made with pumpkin and the fruit that adds the flavor.

Ingredient list is short, our pup loves them and doesn't upset her stomach!

So I could put it in my hair like a barbarian and start my own tribe!

turtles are awesome

He's so cute!!! If you ever want to give him something to help his teeth, these do wonders. :)

That's awesome that you moved from sand, it can actually kill leos, particularly babies. The cricket stuff you're using sounds good too!

As for suggestions, definitely the UTH and thermostat combo I linked, since those are both decently priced. I've used these hides and have liked them, but you can definitely get away with just buying the Petsmart/Petco ones and it may be a little cheaper. Likewise, some people just cut opaque tupperware or use broken (but smooth-edged) pots and stuff as well. I even had a friend who made their hides out of legos.

Our GSD Pit mix tears through everything but keeps no interest in anything "fake" (nylabones, etc). So we constantly buy her knuckles, antlers, and yak milk bones. Her favorite toys are tennis balls though because she likes to bite down and get the bounce-back from the rubber but she destroys them by cracking them in half within a week. I found these the other day and I'm gonna test them out to see if they work (a reviewer showed a video of their GSD chewing them the same way and they hadn't destroyed them in over 6 months)

Along with the recommendations of blocking off his access with gates or sprays (sometimes they work and sometimes they don't), I would recommend a wood chew to see if he just really likes the texture of wood. We bought one for our dog when we moved to a townhouse from a house that had a lot of sticks in the backyard and he loved it.

This is the one we have: https://www.amazon.com/089655-Gorilla-Natural-Large-1Piece/dp/B017D9F70I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517520880&sr=8-5&keywords=wood+dog+chew

It's really hefty and just kind of shaves off because it's a soft wood. Most dogs who've visited us have chewed on it, and it's still surviving a year and a half later!

Looks like a typical shin bone. You can get them at the grocery store, butchers, pet store, etc. They're a pretty popular pastime for dogs, and it doesn't really matter the brand -- its appeal to the dog is that it's part of an animal, and it's the same thing no matter what company produces them.

I take my dogs night running off leash on the back roads in my town: pic

they have lights but i think i need one too

If that doesnt count then how about this. it looks pretty similar to the one in your pic


Viva La Moose!!

My guy LOVES this bone. He's had it for about 4 month and hasn't even gotten half way through. Plus, it doesn't smell as bad. He's also really into hooves, which smell terrible...

Halo Liv a littles

Halo Liv-A-Littles Grain Free Natural Dog Treats & Cat Treats, Freeze Dried Chicken Breast, 2.2-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00027CL5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gmpqDbN3ZRSES

I have an older JRT that gets nervous if we are gone for too long. I found calming chews that help him stay chill if a bunch of people/dogs are coming over or if we are gone for a few days. I know not everyone approves of "drugging" dogs, but they really do help to take the edge off for him. They aren't that expensive either. Here's a link to the ones for larger dogs: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002FZ147G?pc_redir=1409923244&robot_redir=1

You need to buy this RIGHT NOW because it's that time of year when hot tea (or coffee, or cocoa) is PERFECT!! And I need this because I have 3 dogs that always need a distraction!!

salmon jerky

and salmon treats for your dog if you have one.. My dog loved these

omnomnom

To add some better, more digestible alternatives are bully sticks/rings (which can be had de-scented) and ChurpiChews/Himalayan Chews.

The cool thing about the latter is that, when it gets too small to chew, you can pop it in the microwave for a few seconds and turn it into a big doggie cheeto. :D

I would try this in the beef jerky flavor. My dogs love the lamb and salmon.

We should totally get these elk rack snacks because I also have a largish dog and my cousin who owns his own pet store always talks about how great and natural these are but I have still never bought one yet! ZOMG We Need this! FOR HAPPY PUPPIES!

treats long lasting treats:

http://www.amazon.com/Himalayan-Dog-Chew-Large-3-3/dp/B001J9SUHG (i buy the x-large one it last a super long time)

http://www.amazon.com/Great-Dog-Beef-Knuckle-Sourced/dp/B00AZL4HAS

It can vary a bit based on what my puppy is going crazy for at the time. She only gets peanut butter stuffed kongs in her crate (I freeze them so it occupies her longer) and she also goes nuts over these jerky treats from Amazon so sometimes I'll tear a stick of it up into pieces and scatter it around her crate for her to find. My dog is super food motivated so she's easy to lure into her crate because she can't resist her favorite treats and things like a frozen stuffed kong occupy her and distract her while I'm actually leaving and for a bit after until she shifts into nap mode.

Arya would eat this for days

here's some pictures she's a very pretty dog

These and these are both highly motivating for my dog and lower in calories. The jerky is about 4 calories per section (35 calories per stick, according to the company when I emailed them). The Pro Plan chicken is 8 calories per piece and they can easily be split in half.

My dog isn't motivated by Zukes and other training treats.

I got this wood chew for my golden who is obsessed with sticks.... he is a power chewer and he loves it.

It all depends I think the way that this company does it is very smart.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H2ZS5VM/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1457794505&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Dog+treats+Jerky

Give these a try!


I've had great results with them, and they have the same enzymes as dog toothpaste to break down plaque. They have even removed deposits of tartar on my dogs' teeth. They are rawhide but they have been enzymatically treated to be digestible (at least I've heard)

I haven't noticed a difference between brands, so I just look for the cheapest. The antlers from Grateful Shed are the cheapest I've found, but I've also tried Newt's as well.

My dog does seem to prefer deer antlers to Elk though. You may have to try both to see if your dog has a preference. The one you linked to is Elk, and the two I've linked are both deer.

This is probably the real reason. The info link seems like pure conjecture. Note the end:

> Do your own experiment, throw your dog a bone or two, (preferably beef, don’t feed your dog chicken bones) and see if it gives you a taste of bit of childhood nostalgia for white dog poop.

People still feed bones to their dogs. Some people feed their dogs bones all the time. My dogs each get something like this every week, sometimes more (i.e. they always have a bone to chew on). I've never once seen white dog poop in the yard unless it was sun-bleached from being there for a long time.

It's exactly what it looks like. A log for the dog. It's a chew.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017D9F70I/

My first border collie used to baby her toys. She'd carry them around with her everywhere and even sleep with them. By the time she was a year old she still had toys that I had gotten her at birth. My second border collie is a bit more of a "let's see how fast I can shred it" type. Unfortunately my second BC chewed up many of my first BC's favorites (which she pouted about for days). MORE unfortunately is that now my first BC has learned that shredding toys is indeed a fun thing to do.


I've found that no toy is "indestructible" for a border collie. The [rope toys] (http://www.amazon.com/Flossy-Cottonblend-3-Knot-Medium-20-Inch/dp/B001GIEZLA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1404189615&sr=1-1&keywords=rope+toy), kongs, and real bones (not the rawhide ones) tend to last longer though. We now have sets of toys they are allowed to gnaw away at whenever they want, and toys they are only allowed to play with while under supervision.

Zukes minis

Zuke's jerky bites

Zukes filets

Wellness pure rewards

Rocco & roxie jerky sticks

Honest Kitchen Beams

plato salmon strips

sojos

freeze dried lamb

Those are some my dogs like.

Edit: Most of these can be cut up into small pieces for training

Seconded. I've had luck with ordering this brand from Amazon. They seem expensive but they last my corgi about 3 months, compared to how she'll go through a decent sized rawhide in one day.

Don't use wood chips for cresties, especially if you feed live food in the tank. They aren't very smart and risk impaction.

I'd say coco-fiber for the cresties, and coco-fibre mixed with sphagnum moss for the tokays.

Coco-fibre is probably your best bet. It is the ground coconut husk, small enough for the geckos to pass if ingested.

http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Plantation-Quarts-3-Pack/dp/B001CY4ELE

hmmm.. you can buy some baby wipes and wipe his jawbone after he eats peanut butter.... actually nevermind. that would probably hurt him. hmmmmmmmm what about this? I feed my dogs this. It has fish, is soft and chewy, and the dogs love them.

I got it from my local mom and pop pet store. It is available on amazon though ... https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Reptile-Cave-Medium/dp/B001F3YJ9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481306407&sr=8-1&keywords=lizard+hide

if you live in the us one of the cheapest places to get coir is amazon.

3x8qt bricks for $4.49

i get mine on amazon. I don't know if amazon ships to iceland, but here is the link.
http://www.amazon.com/Chasing-Our-Tails-100-Percent-Naturally/dp/B0053WMOKE/

Himalayan Cheese. Lasts for days:

http://www.amazon.com/Himalayan-Dog-Natural-Treat-Under/dp/B001J9SUHG

Puppy chew toy

These only have one ingredient, chicken.

$3.14!

Food thermometer

I have been looking into this as well. With Millie's recurring URI I am also hesitant to use soil. It is also incredibly difficult to find untreated soil in small amounts for purchase in my area.

One thing I have read here and elsewhere is to try coconut husk fiber that is used in reptile terrariums. Eco Earth is a brand name I have seen a lot, and I also found this one that seemed cheap enough for a one off try.


Another suggestion made in a similar thread by /u/PeaceLoveLindzy was flax seed. I have also thought about picking some of that up to try. Once we get back from our trip I plan to give one or both a try to see how it goes.