Reddit mentions: The best drafting tools & drafting kits

Bring a tiny stapler. Lots of the printers don't have staplers by them anymore because you can tell it to staple in the settings but who has time for that.

Engineering paper, notebooks, a nice metal ruler, binders if you truly think you're going to use them (and 3 hole punch), something to write assignments/etc in if you think that's helpful to you, a good eraser (I like kneaded ones), you'll need a non-programmable calc for 1101 if you're taking it (TI-34, like $10), index cards for studying, binder clips are the absolute best for everything. Post it tabs are awesome for marking up books that you might sell back.

Check with your roommate(s) about who's got a fridge, microwave, possible TV/gaming system/etc so you don't both bring them. (ALSO A BOX FAN!) Same if someone's got a futon. Flat pack is good if you might not need/want it, you can shove it under a bed or something. Some folks like rugs, I know the carpet in some rooms is pretty gross. If you're in McNair you can probably live without a fridge, there are full size ones in the kitchenettes and people are pretty good about respecting labels. They also have decent sized TVs in the kitchenettes (basically McNair has the best kitchenettes). I've heard and experienced both ends of the spectrum for Wads - kitchenettes only have minifridges anyway, and the suites come with them.

Make sure your boots, coat, snowpants are both warm and waterproof, you can spray them with silicone spray if you're not sure. (Especially if you're planning on helping with snow statues during Carni). I recommend Columbia and/or Mountain Hard Wear, had good experiences with both. A balaclava type thing is definitely a good choice, plus an assortment of hats/gloves/etc for different weather/days/whatever. Wet gloves are not fun. Get ski goggles or similar, you'll thank me later.

Quarters for the dryer, don't bother with one of those pop up laundry hampers, get a decent bag or just bring the stereotypical laundry basket - I've seen many of these, and I have one myself, and it's lasted more than five years. Just put your name on it or something so somebody doesn't think it's theirs.

Dumb stuff you might not think about: extension cords, power strips, ethernet splitter/switch (only 1 port per room which kind of sucks), stuff like WD-40, super glue, goo-gone, magic eraser, zip ties, flip flops for the shower, shower caddy/bucket, a mirror (if in Wads), (not) duct tape, 3M hooks for all the things, poster putty/sticky tack... a cool/funny/weird hat if you're planning on joining pep band, your instrument if the above may apply to you, hockey/etc equipment for broomball (look for stuff early for the best deals)...

I am assuming from your profile that you are in the U.S. and will be attending a U.S. school.

First of all, I echo what others have said about questioning "Architecture Engineering". Architecture and Engineering are related but otherwise completely different disciplines. Yes, you use some mathematics and engineering knowledge when practicing architecture, and many engineers also use design principles, but in terms of your education these are very different majors. If I had to guess based upon other programs I've seen, I would hazard that "Architecture Engineering" is some kind of composite course that covers bits of Civil Engineering, Structural Engineering, Construction Engineering, maybe Mechanical Systems (HVAC, Plumbing, Etc.), and maybe even Construction Management. Each of these is difficult academic program all its own, and I can't imagine there being meaningful time for any sort of Architecture Studio curriculum, let alone interior design.

That said, you need to decide if you want to go into Design(Architecture/Interior Design) or Engineering first; don't waste time and money pursuing programs that you aren't interested in. If your goal is to become a practicing, licensed architect then you need to get a NCARB accredited degree from an accredited College of Architecture. This usually takes the form of getting an undergraduate Bachelor of Science in Architecture followed by a Master of Architecture. The Master's degree is the actual accredited, professional degree which is required in order to become licensed. Of course, that means you could study whatever you wanted as your undergraduate degree and still apply to a Master program, but I think you'd be very lost without the solid foundation that an undergraduate architecture degree gives. During or following school, you also must intern under a licensed Architect who will sign off on how many hours you work for the Architecture Experience Program. Once you have completed these hour requirements as well as the professional architecture degree from your Masters, you must pass the Architectural Registration Exam, a series of exams which test your capabilities and education. Finally, after that, you may legally practice architecture and call yourself ARCHITECT.

So, regarding your questions, it's VERY important that you start actually researching the profession of architecture to see if it's even what you want to do. I HIGHLY recommend you read Architect? A Candid Guide To The Profession by Roger Lewis. It's the most accurate, thorough and honest overview of the entire process of practicing architecture that I've found. Architecture is a competitive field which requires an intense dedication and discipline to mastering a wide array of complex and disparate skills. It costs a lot of money and at least 7 or so years of your life to become an architect. One upside is that the skills you learn can be applied to all kinds of other industries, though, so many people don't even stick with architecture following graduation but find work in all kinds of other design fields.

Architects, in general, don't make very much money. In general, you won't really be hitting your stride in your profession until your early 50s. Most of this job is sitting down at a computer/desk for very long periods of time doing very monotonous work for someone else. In practicing professionally, you'll find that most people want a simple box for their home/business, and would much rather spend their money on their families/a boat/investments than a nice building. I don't say all this to be cynical, but it's just part of it you have to be ready for. Most of this job is enormously fulfilling, but it's on you to find that.


If, after all of this, you are still interested in Architecture, here's my recommendation for preparing for the Fall:

1. Read that book I mentioned.
   
   
2. Pick up a book on Architectural Drafting. You won't do much physical drafting beyond your first year, but if you don't understand the fundamentals of how objects and buildings are drawn, you will have a very hard time keeping up. I recommend Architectural Graphics by Francis D. Ching. You won't need all the tools he mentions in the beginning. Get yourself a good mechanical pencil, a drafting triangle, a scale, and a ream of cheap white printer paper. Find some very simple houses or buildings you like and practice "seeing" them and drawing them. Drafting is the common language of the Architecture-Engineering-Construction industries and is arguably THE technical skill that you'll first need to master.
   
   
3. If you have time, download a student version of AutoCAD and start messing around with it. Watch some tutorials. A GREAT thing to do would be to practice designing a small 1-room shed/studio and take it all the way from a sketch to some basic orthographic views in CAD.
   
   
4. Finally, and I cannot stress this enough, do NOT get too caught up in what you think Architecture "is". I think the best possible advice for school is to go into it with an open mind and without preconceptions. Buildings you love now you might not care too much about it 5 years. Things you don't undertand/get might become your favorite projects. Architecture is an extremely open-ended field and the hardest part is carving your own path through it.
   
   Of course, this is all based upon my own meandering experience, and parts of this probably don't apply to every person. Take it with a grain of salt.
   Feel free to DM me if you have any further questions. Good luck!

This is... really good for a second day doing calligraphy. Actually, it's pretty damn good for a second month doing calligraphy. Stop making the rest of us look bad by comparison, you talented jerk! >:( Ok, but you wanted tips on how to improve. So...

**

It's good that you're using a nib ladder, but it looks like you aren't using guidelines? Either that, you're using guidelines that are misaligned. One of these two things is causing irregular letter heights, and for each line of letters to sag downwards as it goes to the right.

Either way, it's an easy fix: when you make a nib ladder, align a straightedge to the bottom and draw a line to the opposite end of the page (a lot of people on here use a T-square or a rolling ruler; I usually just use another piece of paper because it's easier to tell if it's really perpendicular and also I am a cheapskate). Then do the same thing to the top of the nib ladder. If you want, you can also make a nib ladder on the opposite end of the page to check if the lines are really parallel. Do this for a whole page of lines.

When you've done this once, you can use that piece of paper to rule future practice papers: just make tick marks at the places the guidelines begin/end and use a straightedge to draw between them.

*

Other than that, it looks really good, especially for the second day! You have all the letterforms down, your strokes are confident, and you're keeping the nib at a consistent angle. I'm especially impressed with C, O, Q, and G—it was months before my circles were that even. some days they still arent! If not for your title, I'd have guessed you were at least 3 weeks along. Bravo!*

>The letters S, X, and Z

Saaaaaaame :( I'd suggest studying the geometry of those letters. X and Z are basically diagonals drawn across a rectangle. Figure out the proportions of that rectangle (x units wide by y units tall) and try to internalize them. Try drawing a bunch said rectangles and filling them with X's and Z's. Then have that in mind while writing them. It looks like you might already be doing this, since they're underlined? If so, ignore this entire paragraph except the last sentence. If not, I found this pdf to be mildly helpful, although not as helpful as I thought it would be when I first found it, if that makes sense. I'm afraid it's mostly going to come down to practice.

S is like that, but more complicated. There's guides out there that have it as circles inside of circles, or inside a half-square, but I could never keep it all in my head. So far, I don't have a better answer than "practice, compare with examplar, practice some more." There's some pretty awesome people in this sub, though, so maybe one of them will have better advice.



One final note that has nothing to do with calligraphy:

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Personally, I enjoyed the capability of my table-top drafting table that I ended up giving to a friend, but that may not always be the best suited since you either need a table or a somewhat stable surface to sit on (can work laying over your lap on a couch, for instance).

I always thought having a collapsible drafting table (stand folds up; think TV dinner tray), that would stand on its own, and be sturdy enough to not move when in use (locking positioning will be crucial). Given the fact that she paints, glass is probably the best idea. Also, angle adjustment will likely be very important to swap between a building surface for models, and a drafting surface for drawing.

This was the portable drafting table I had.

This is more what I always thought would be awesome to have, but it doesn't have the attached straight-edge; which I would deem necessary, but your girlfriend may not.

Hopefully those examples can lead you into building something appropriate.

Best of luck and have fun!

If it’s in its own room, there is an adapter on Thingiverse for a 4” tube to go to a fan and such to vent out a window.

https://youtu.be/Rhyf_JttQEY watch this to learn how to properly hollow prints. You don’t have to for jewelry unless it’s really thick but otherwise it’s worth doing to save on that expensive resin.

I personally only use Anycubic resin. I tried one of the cheaper trains on Amazon (monoprice) and couldn’t get anything to print on it. Ended up slowly mixing that resin into some Anycubic resin to not have a waste of a bottle.

If you have Facebook, there are great groups out there for troubleshooting and discussion

https://youtu.be/roAqm5c3rfU this is the flint reed method of leveling the bed. I heard of it before I got my printer and used this method out of the box. Works perfectly

FEP Film for UV 3D Printers - 5mil (0.127mm) Thick - 6 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CTT6JNR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NQG5Bb1A0EJ4A

You’ll eventually need to change out the film. These work great and cost way less than the official $10 single sheet. YouTube how to change out. Pretty simple after you do it once.

When using the Photon slicer, I always use medium or heavy supports. Had several failures trying to use just light supports

That’s all I can think of for now.

If you're not comfortable with curves, but are willing to prototype in cardstock, then I would recommend picking up a set of drafter's french curves. I have this set of 8, and they are a nice thick plastic (you can definitely just apply them to a squarish leather scratch-out and scratch against them ad-hoc), that you can make tick marks against with a sharpie to use the 'same curve' on multiple pieces.

I don't know a good way to make pleasing curves without doing it by eye, and I don't know a good way to make those curves discrete/repeatable without using a french curve. Bonus - these are also great for a wide variety of corner rounding.

I like it, nice coverage and cool stickers. What might look cool is to add a black border around the edges with the really thin marking tape like this: https://www.amazon.com/Chartpak-Graphic-Inches-Black-BG1251/dp/B002Q1I2AG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505996982&sr=8-2&keywords=thin+electrical+tape

I really like it, good job!

If she's into pen(cil) and paper, she might enjoy a prortable drafting table (such as https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1RFW0/ref=asc_df_B001E1RFW05085944)
... plus a triangle. My parents did this for me when I took a drafting elective in high school & I enjoyed it.

Sketchup & other software is super useful, but a helluva learning curve. As others have said, introduce her to the greats & help her find a style she digs. I was obsessed once I learned about Frank Lloyd Wright.

Surce: Not an architect, but strongly considered it & believe I could've enjoyed the career.

What you're talking about is technical drawing. It's a vanishing art . . . or rather, it's a dwindling technique, because it isn't really art at all. It's all migrated to the digital environment, now.

It isn't actually easy to do in Photoshop, or not correctly. It is easy to do in AutoCad, Sketchup, and a host of other CAD platforms. Manually, it's mathematical. You use scale, meaning that, for instance, you draw a .25" line on your paper for every 1' of real measurement. You can find some common scales here.

You can't do precise work freehand. To implement scale correctly, you'll need the tools of the trade; a drafting table, straight-edges, scales (a special sort of ruler) compasses, etc, Wikipedia has a nice article on these tools. And here's a more pragmatic Amazon link to get you started, as well as a collection of YouTube tutorials.

I work full time in Sketchup, by the way, and apply my drafting training (from shop class way back in 80's era junior high) all the time. Unlike other CAD programs, the tools are designed to be intuitive to folks who understand this kind of technical drawing. It's also free, so if you feel like moving off paper and into the digital realm once you've got the hang of it, knock yourself out.

This isn't exactly what you asked about, but maybe it'll help anyway.

I occasionally make lines between the dots of my LT1917 A5 and I use this ruler to do so. I line up the grid of the ruler using the dots on the page and draw the lines pretty easily. Obviously, this can still have some errors occur, but if you really like your LT1917, it might be worth it.

Any type of notebook can be a BuJo notebook - that's the beauty of it!

I really don't care too much about the fanciness in mine, so I use old A5 maths exercise books like this as I find it easy to plot it all out!

Hey there! I'm thinking a geometry set that includes a protractor and miscellaneous drafting tools. Those were indispensable my 7th grade year.

OR, if he's not at that level, maybe a notebook with a quick-reference sheet. There are math-themed, English-themed, and Geography-themed notebooks which have simple equations, syntax rules, or world maps. Those were always awesome! :)

You might also consider a drafting square. I use them in the shop. My large one is great for setting my miter gauge and checking my sled, and checking cabinet glue ups. They are usually pretty cheap and very accurate. https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-AS1012-Transparent-Triangle-Set/dp/B00EF1RU0S/ref=sr_1_15?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoMe78PSj4gIVwbjACh1LogbjEAAYASAAEgJ1RPD_BwE&hvadid=241935832463&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9016884&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10471655247492021800&hvtargid=kwd-1798148374&hydadcr=24660_10400767&keywords=drafting+square&qid=1558142438&s=gateway&sr=8-15

Well holy shit here's a 2-pack for $27.35: http://www.amazon.com/Westcott-6-Inch-Plastic-Assorted-Colors/dp/B00BTMV9D0/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1375400446&sr=1-1&keywords=6+inch+ruler

Go give your Fisher rep a big hug I guess.

Here's my point of reference though. I work for a company that distributes bic lighters. (TL;DR we profit by selling them for 39 cents). Think about how much more complex a bic lighter is than a plastic ruler. There is a metal cap and multiple different types of plastic (body, fuel line, fuel button) and a sparking mechanism with moving parts and different material components. There are two stickers, the logo (multicolored) and the UPC. Most importantly, it comes filled with fuel. Besides the complication of filling the thing on the assembly line (I'm guessing this is at least as complicated as marking a ruler), this makes the product a "hazardous material". Once you are considered hazmat, you have a whole extra set of paperwork and regulations to follow. My company employs drivers to take these from our central warehouse all over the continental United States. Our drivers have to be CDL with hazmat certification. Add the fuel cost for the trucks, and the wages of all the people in the central and regional warehouses that handle and package the things. Now add the cost of handling returned merchandise and you have all of that on a return trip, plus every returned lighter is checked by hand. Now a mini bic lighter retails typically for 79 cents. My company makes a nice profit selling them to convenience stores for 39 cents. Now maybe there is a good explanation to why a ruler would sell for a comparable amount, maybe they sell so few a year that it makes up all that difference in bulk handling, but you can see why I'm skeptical.

This is a physical way of demonstrating one (of many) definition of scalar curvature. Wikipedia has a good formula and explanation. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scalar_curvature#Direct_geometric_interpretation

Hopefully a more intuitive explanation is the following. Let A(r) denote the area of a circle (the set of all points in the surface at distance r to p) around a point p on the surface. Express A(r) as a Taylor expansion around r = 0. At orders 0 through 3, the series matches the formula one would get in flat space. At fourth order, it stops matching (in flat space the series is just \pi r\^2), and the coefficient of r\^4 is scalar curvature.

What this means is that for surfaces of positive curvature, there is less area than there should be in the plane, so when you flatten it into a plane there's a gap. For surfaces of negative curvature, there is more area than there should be in the plane, so you get a ripple refusing to flatten down. I like to think of a kale leaf.

When I learned this, my prof brought a kale leaf to class. I have a favorite tool for demonstrating this to students: https://www.amazon.com/ETA-hand2mind-85104-Polydron-Triangles/dp/B06XJH14M8

I haven't seen anything like that in a stencil form, but perhaps something like this might help you.

You could get a parallel straightedge board. I got one a few years ago but haven't gotten much use out of it since they really don't teach manual drafting at my engineering school.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001700RFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or if you have the space and want to get REALLY fancy, a drafting machine. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drafting_machine

Neither of these are particularly good for notebooks though.

I really like aluminum architect rulers like this one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015AOL40/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PnR5xb1JNT0G1

Look for drafting supplies. Just do a quick search on Amazon.com and find some kits. Mechanical pencils get a thin and a thick for different line weights, or pens if he prefers but I make to many mistakes to go with ink. Triangle scale rulers are awesome and in my mind a must.
https://smile.amazon.com/Alvin-BDK-1E-Beginners-Drafting-Engineers/dp/B000JM47FS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481911877&sr=8-3&keywords=drafting

https://smile.amazon.com/Staedtler-Combo-Circle-Template-977/dp/B000KIBQ46/ref=pd_sim_229_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HDZAG4H645K0RBS0WTGD

https://smile.amazon.com/Staedtler-Drafting-Mechanical-Pencils-925WP3/dp/B000GR7SUM/ref=pd_sim_229_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HDZAG4H645K0RBS0WTGD

If you are going to try Broom Stick Lace, I suggest picking up a drafting ruler. The triangle shape makes it much easier to slip the hook in.

They have them on Amazon or at office supply stores.

Arteza 12" Triangular Architect Scale Aluminum Color-Coded Grooves (Imperial) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY2BJ1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pa0BCbVWWWPEE

Don't buy plastic crap because it sucks and breaks easily and little cracks make it impossible to draw a straight line.

http://www.amazon.com/Staedtler-Combination-Durable-Plastic-56932BK/dp/B000KIA4I0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1453322033&sr=8-5&keywords=staedtler+drafting+triangles

http://www.amazon.com/Staedtler-Piece-Compass-559-09BK/dp/B00UENAQM0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1453322081&sr=8-4&keywords=staedtler+compass

You won't regret it.

Like this one? https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LY2BJ1G/ref=mp_s_a_1_3/132-3557358-8743653?ie=UTF8&qid=1494559555&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Architect+scale&dpPl=1&dpID=51s9kGRO8IL&ref=plSrch#immersive-view_1494559967675

I'm guessing I'd use the marks on the green side labeled 1?

Architects and engineers commonly use scales like this one.

Plans drawn at 3/4" scale means that 3/4" on the paper equals 1' in real life. So, on the ruler, every 3/4" is marked incrementally, indicating the number of feet the measurement is.

The device on the right here is a parallel ruler. The idea is it slides perpendicular to the lines you draw, so that you can draw parallel lines. Like this.

I use an architects ruler like this. It lets me "scale" my drawings and work out dimensions. But I don't go full blown "drafting"... There are youtube videos on how to use them.

I bought these and they have been working just as well as the included fep, correct size and everything.

Go Rams! Drafting is drawing the various pieces of the set to scale and often from multiple angles. For example, 1/4" = 1' would be scaled down to 1/48th of the original size, so a 4' x 8' standard platform would be drawn at 1"x2" in the drawing. Get yourself one of these bad boys and once you learn how to use it, it can help handle the math for you.

I bought these sheets, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTT6JNR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. 6 sheets for $30.

• http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JM47FS?keywords=alvin%20drafting%20kit&qid=1458689883&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Alvin-DB114-Drawing-Board-Metal/dp/B00RB852K2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1458689932&sr=8-4&keywords=drafting+board
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Alvin-ALT-Aluminum-Graduated-T-Square/dp/B00EXAAHT2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1458689980&sr=8-7&keywords=t+square
  
  
  
  That's the stuff I use...
  
  
  
  
• $78.05 total

Geometry box

I think they would absolutely work without the glitter! Painting the inside should work, but you might have to do multiple coats to cover any streaking.

I know they make lots of thickness of black tape that aren't glittery. I was originally going to use this until I found the glitter tape:

http://www.amazon.com/Chartpak-CHABG1251-Graphic-Tapes/dp/B002Q1I2AG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1449277862&sr=8-6&keywords=whiteboard+tape

For the button they make the same type of cardboard in matte colors. If you go to the scrap-booking section of any craft store they'll be a bunch styles/colors to choose from!

I just came here to be snooty and tell you architects dont use rulers, we use scales ;P

https://www.amazon.com/Staedtler-12-Inches-Architect-Triangular-98718-31BK/dp/B001E67XZ4

I used silver prismatic ( pretty) duct tape and a neon index card to make a pocket for my small ruler