Reddit mentions: The best duct tape

I second what Qualsa said. Don't feed into cameras when you can avoid it. hopefully you can get someone to slate and log the shots down. it'll save your lives and make things SO much easier.

notice how your Zoom writes the file names. I think they are usually STE-000 or MONO-000 depending on how you record it (haven't used 4 channels yet) and then write that on the slate. I also have an h4n so the naming conventions might be a little different. for films i'd recommend it naming by the shot or take over by the date. it'll be easier, trust me.

next: don't worry about lavs. Not yet. you have enough to worry about and lavs and 50 cables are going to tie you down, OR you're going to have a hell of a time trying to figure out what frequencies are usable and not. plus you can even still get interference on frequencies that you thought were empty, but they actually weren't. So, please avoid that for now. You need to set aside non-project time to get that stuff right. Even then, it's different in every county or city.

now, Learn what your mics can and can't do. This is essential. The Zoom has great warmth, so maybe for closeups in the studio, you might get better audio using the zoom's sensitive microphones verses a shotgun or something with a long pole, but I can't know for sure without being there, so that one is up to you.

third, back to the slating, if you've never slated before, here is a good one we are using for a feature we are filming. God it has helped out tons:
Right here

if you want to make things a little easier, you can get some [Gaff tape]9http://www.amazon.com/Pro-FLGRN250-Gaffers-yards-Length/dp/B000SYYIGU) to write down things that wont change. IE director, production name, etc. that and a sharpie will save a lot of time.

But what's a slate without a log book? We've been fine with just:



Roll | Scene | Shot | Take | Audio File | Good/bad/fair
----|-----|----|----|----------|-------------
01 | 1 | 1 | 1 | STE-000 | **
01 | 1 | 1 | 2 | STE-001 | (train horn)
01 | 1 | 1 | 3 | STE-002 | (distant horn during whispering line)
01 | 1 | N/a | N/A  | STE-003 | ADR - Whispering Line
01 | 1 | 2 | 1 | STE-004 | (actor fell down)
01 | 1 | 2 | 2 | STE-005 | (might have clipped)
01 | 1 | 2 | 3 | STE-006 | ****
01 | 1 | 2 | 4 | STE-007 | Safety
01 | 1 | 3 | 1 | MONO-000 | Wide

This is how we've been slating: http://i.imgur.com/dMVsGbp.jpg

It's pretty simple and saves a ton of time when editing. If you don't have your own adaptation of logging things, this is a great time to get in the habit. If you think you can handle not logging it, at least make sure to see if you can call out your audio file name and get a loud CLAP once the camera has started rolling and before the director calls action and definitely before yall both cut. that way the editor can know what file to look at.

if you cant get it during the shot, try and ADR. If you can ADR on set in between shots or once yall wrap up, please do. it'll be so much easier to do while everything is fresh on the actors minds. Don't be afraid to get everyone quiet. sometimes you can't get in that sweet spot where you know it sounds the best, but they gotta get the shot. So pull the actors aside and get their audio if you need to. But try try try and get the audio as best that you can so you don't have to do the extra work and can move on to other things.

DEAD CAT'S for the external mics. Find one that fits your setup.

and RED HEADs for the zoom.

Those will save your life.

feel free to correct me. I am just another dude learning his craft. I told you everything to the best of my current knowledge. I'm sure that eventually I'll find better methods than what my crew is currently using someday down the road.

If the wood has a decent grain that you'd like to see - dye it rather than paint. StewMac is probably your best source there.

If you want a solid color base, look into airbrush colors like the Createx Auto-Air line - you can get some fantastic metallic and iridescent colors, and they come in candy clears so you can do cool things like a sparkle base coat and shoot a transparent color coat on top and get whatever shade you want. Auto-air is water based (although there are special reducers that make it better) and you mist on light coats (then air dry with a heat gun, or heat lamps) between coats - build up slowly and don't get in a hurry.

Source for Createx Paints (you can get it elsewhere, that's just the one that was on the top of my head. Bear Air is one, just Google Createx and you should be able to find sources) - I can buy this locally at Texas Art Supply, so you may look at local art, hobby and craft supply stored depending on your market.

You can top coat Auto-Air paints with Watco Lacquer (which you can normally find at a local hardware store. If you want to spend a little more, Stewmac sells Behlen in nitro, but the differences are pretty minor and the Behlen is more expensive and harder to acquire... at any rate, I'd go for the Watco and practice a bit on scraps before shooting the finish products. It thins with off-the-shelf lacquer thinner. A light mist coat first (to give the surface a little tack and help prevent runs), a medium coat or two after about 15 minutes, then wait for the recoat window and spray fairly wet coats until you're satisfied with the depth. If you get runs,or drips, you'll need to wait a day or so and wet-sand them out (gently, you don't want to sand through the clear) then fine steel wool the entire surface, wipe it down and start again.

The biggest benefit of lacquer is that it dries super hard, and will polish to a glass-like finish with much less effort than it takes to polish urethane paints. Expect to spray anywhere from 6-10 coats, and read the can for the recoat window - if you wait too long between coats, you may need to steel wool it to break the surface so that a new coat will stick; if you do it within the recoat window, the coat will just melt into the one below. Too soon, and you risk bubbling or cloudiness of the underlying layer, as the solvents will not have a the time to flash off, and will get trapped underneath the next coat - this is "blushing" and you probably don't want that.

—————————————

Another good option (for solid colors) is the House of Kolor automotive line. The range of colors is amazing (same as above, solids, pearls, metallics and candies), and it's a catalyst hardened automotive paint, so the paint on the surface won't absorb vibrations like traditional urethane paints (like those from a rattle-can).

The downside here is, you need special reducers, hardeners, and a good quality respirator (think misting superglue into your lungs) to apply. They can be somewhat expensive once you add it all up. Also, ideally they need to be clear coated with HoK top coats, which are excellent quality, but harder to polish than lacquer. Again, expensive and time consuming, but will net you a show quality finish that will last for a lifetime.

edit: if you're doing a neck paint, do yourself a favor and investigate 3m Fine Line masking tape - best product on the market for hella clean lines...

Hey everyone, I cringe when I see the cost vs contents of most first aid kits on the market. Too much unnecessary stuff and only the highest priced kits have clotting powder, which I’ve used on the trail for controlling bleeding with large abrasions and deep or tangential lacerations. I put together my suggestions, with an eye toward maximizing usefulness and minimizing per unit cost. IMO this is superior to most kits costing 2-3x more. Light enough for the discernible backpacker, but makes a great gift for family and friends to throw in the car pocket, the boat, ATV, or carry along to kids sporting events. Feel free to add, subtract or substitute to customize your own.

Ever-Ready First Aid Adhesives, assorted sizes, 280ct $6.95 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0179S0IAW
Self explanatory, enough for 2-3 of each size per DIY kit.

Vakly Stretch Gauze: 12 pk 4” x 4yds $7.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTQFPA6
1 pk per kit and 4 left over for the home medicine cabinet.

McKesson individually wrapped sterile gauze pads: 50ct $5.17 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C5P9J8
6 per kit, throw them in a ziploc baggie to protect against moisture.

Woundseal clotting powder: 20 pkts $28.06 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RUJXR6
Remember that compression alone, when done properly, effectively controls most bleeding. But when a member of your group is on aspirin or other blood thinners, or sustains a nasty cut that won’t stop bleeding, this stuff is awesome.

3M Duct tape: 1.88in x 30yds $3.89 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013B1XHE
Countless uses for the backpacker / camper, from tourniquet, fracture splinting, reinforcement of wound dressings, fashioning a moleskin barrier for blisters, not to mention tent, pack or sleeping bag repair. Grab a few extra straws from your local fast food joint, trim them to 2 inches, then roll up 4 to 6ft lengths of duct tape around the straw. The straw in the middle doubles as a pocket billows for fire starting.

Rensow white petroleum jelly 5gms, 144 pkts: $24.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAGT85M
Lip balm, burn treatment, also apply to rashes, blisters and abrasions to keep gauze from adhering. Doubles as an excellent fire accelerant for bushcrafting. I squeeze some on a cotton ball to use with my tender for catching a spark.

Kirkland anti-diarrheal (loperamide) tablets: 400ct $9.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EXPY004
Put 12 per kit and keep the rest for that week-old lasagna that you should have thrown out.

Ibuprofen 200mg tabs: 2x500ct $3.93 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1NJAJS
Put at least 40 per kit as this is likely to be the first supply used.

Diphenhydramine capsules 25mg, 100ct : $4.99 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00080CKDW
Useful for allergies, insect stings, contact dermatitis, and doubles as a sleep aid for those restless nights in the hammock. 12 per kit should do.

Triple antibiotic ointment 0.5oz 144 pkts: $12.18 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H2T9K3K
6 to 8 per kit should do, and keep the rest for replen.

Ziplock snack bags, 40ct (for storing meds): $2.73 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U9ZFFCY
Please clearly label each baggie using an indelible marker with name of med, adult dose and expiration date. Pediatric dose optional. Individual “gas station” packets are much more expensive but if routinely carried in vehicle this may be a consideration (law enforcement doesn’t like unlabeled pills floating around in baggies).

First Aid Bags (empty), Alazco, 8 bags $32.82 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0182MQ4MU
Highly optional but nice for making your kit look pretty if you’re giving these away as gifts. I double wrap mine in gallon ziploc bags for moisture control.

A printable first aid primer: https://s3.amazonaws.com/yohsresourcelibrary/First+Aid+Quick+Guide.pdf
Certainly not a comprehensive guide, but has some key information like helpful reminders on how to properly perform CPR on kiddos and babies 👶.

I did a 100 day backpacking trip around the world with a North Face Backtrack 50. It was small enough to be a carry on. Some advice others have mentioned here, first aid kit is very important, along with copies of your passport and some passport photos just in case. You should also have photocopies of your credit cards and their 1-800 number if you're bring them along. A lock to keep your belongings safe. Travelers duct tape is also useful. They're small and doesn't take up space but very handy to have. If you'll be doing laundry yourself without a machine, a sink stopper and cloths line are useful too. Eating utensils are also useful like this immersion heater, or fold up cups etc.

Wardrobe is fine, though it's better to use synthetic fabrics for t-shirts and such since it dries faster and doesn't wrinkle like cotton does when you shove it into a bag. Also to not stand out as much as a tourist, all your cloths should also match. Greys and browns work well with everything should you decide to wear the same cloths a few days in a row. If you're paranoid about getting robbed, a money belt is also good. If you get past the dorkyness of it's wonderful. I had most my stuff in it while keeping some money in my pockets. You don't want to be whipping the belt out for every purchase. That's all I can think of at the moment. If i come up with more I'll edit this comment.

From Top Left to Right.

Gearward Compact Survival Cord Mini, 25’
[http://gearward.com/collections/frontpage/products/compact-survival-cord-mini-technora]


Tucked inside the folds of the cord are: a micro neodymium magnet, a pen spring, a small safety pin.
[https://www.amazon.com/10-100pcs-Neodymium-Strong-Magnets-MarbellStore/dp/B01LZEJWVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484275063&sr=8-1&keywords=micro+neodymium+magnets].
Have actually used this for: fishing some ladies keys from a grate at the school before the janitor could show up. Also repaired a neighbour’s skate lace with the cord.

Night Ize Inova thumb light (three functions, bright, medium, flash)
[https://www.amazon.com/Nite-INOVA-Ultraviolet-Microlight-Clip/dp/B00CG17GDA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484275003&sr=8-2&keywords=Nite+Ize+inova]
Have actually used this for finding a lost earring in a dark movie theatre. Thought I would use it to find the locks on my house and car, but everything is pretty well lit.

Stanley Key Chain Tape Measure
[https://www.amazon.com/Toysmith-Key-Chain-Tape-Measure/dp/B000F4G5NW/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484274328&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=stanley+keychain+tape+measure+1m]
Have actually used this for buying a new sideboard from an antique shop. Knew the measurements of the room and used this to determined it wouldn’t fit in that room. LOL.

Nite Ize inka Mobile Pen
[https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Mobile-Stylus-IMP-M1-R7/dp/B00BAWSOD2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484275029&sr=8-2&keywords=Nite+Ize+Inka]
Have actually used this tons of times whether someone doesn’t have a pen, or for myself at the passport office or recently at the lawyer’s office.

Prime-Lite 5-1 Multifunction Keychain with Light
[http://www.prime-lite.ca/camping_outdoors/5-in-1-multifunction-keychain-with-light-24-852.html]
A new addition. I like the full sized Phillips screwdriver bit. Has a flashlight. Used it to open the bottom of my son’s new RC car’s battery compartment. Has a knife, too. Good for package opening. Not much else.

[Nite Ize DoohicKey Keychain Multitool]
(https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-DoohicKey-Multi-Tool-Stainless/dp/B00FIX126K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484274688&sr=8-2&keywords=Nite+Ize+keychain).
Actually used this recently to pry open my frozen gas cap cover.

[Mini Bic Lighter]
(https://www.amazon.com/Lot-Bic-Mini-Multi-colour-Lighter/dp/B00863XN4I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484274798&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+bic)
To light cigs, mostly. Haven’t needed to start any urban fires. But… I wrapped over it a thin layer of [To-Go Gorilla Tape] (https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-6100101-2-Duct-Tape-Black/dp/B01M2AAGTZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484274817&sr=8-1&keywords=travel+gorilla+tape) and generic electrical tape at the base. [I interwove the electrical tape through a generic (plastic coated) paperclip so that it acts as a keychain. Haven’t lost one yet.]. I used the duct tape recently when a poster fell down at my kids’ Christmas recital and I was able to peel a few pieces off for the teacher to put it back up.

[Mini Sharpie Marker]
(https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Permanent-Markers-Assorted-4-Count/dp/B000GOZXA2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484274852&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+sharpie+marker)
Used it recently to write a nasty note to a jerk who dinged my car. Also to get an autograph on a menu of an actor you’ve probably never heard of, but who was big growing up in Toronto.

[Generic Folding Travel Scissors]
(https://www.amazon.com/UCEC-Scissors-Xiaoquan-Slip-N-Snip-scissors/dp/B0199VSV42/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1484274914&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=folding+scissors&psc=1)
Sharper than I expected. I recently used this to save the day when my son refused to wear his new Christmas sweater for a family picture because the tags were itching his back. Snip. Problem solved.

[Gerber Dime Micro Tool]
(https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-31-001040-Dime-Micro-Tool/dp/B0079J51JU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484274877&sr=8-4&keywords=gerber+dime)
Good to have this as it has pliers, but I haven’t used it other than to pull yellow lego heads out of lego helmets.

[Nite Ize Key Rack Locker]
(https://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Stainless-Carabiner-MicroLocks/dp/B00FIX12AG/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1484274970&sr=8-1&keywords=Nite+Ize+Keychain)
A good way to keep it all together. These clips don’t lose their… clippieness.


So, I love this little EDC. Will continue to use it, thought I don’t see many ways to improve it!

I daily carry a GORUCK GR1. I chose this pack because of how ridiculously overbuilt it is. Prior to getting the GR1, I carried less and I generally still couldn't go more than 6 months at best without ripping or destroying my packs. I also like that it doesn't have much built in organization. I prefer to create my own organizational system rather than use the one mandated by the pack. This is the primary reason I chose this over similar high quality options such as the Tom Bihn Synapse 25.

Also, I know there is a serious lack of cool hacking tools. Unfortunately I am currently in a more defensive than offensive cybersecurity position, so I don't really carry a lot of stuff around with me like I used to when I was red team.

On the front you can see that I have a Grimloc biner in case I need to attach anything to my pack. I also have a Gonex water bottle pouch and a large water bottle. On the back of the pack I have a pouch with my EDC Zebralight on the shoulder strap for easy access while wearing the ruck.

• GORUCK GR1 26L
  
• Gonex MOLLE Water Bottle Pouch
  
• 48oz Nalgene
  
• Grimloc Locking D-ring
  
• Tactical Tailor Multitool Pouch
  
• Zebralight SC600 Fd Mk; III Plus
  
  Opening the pack up, I have my tool pouch attached to the internal MOLLE webbing at the top as well as work gloves, a waterproof pack cover, rain coat, and umbrella. Additionally, I have a packing cube full of clothes. The packing cube isn't a usual part of my EDC, but I had the bag packed for an overnight trip so I thought I'd leave it in the picture to show what a few days worth of clothes looked like packed in the bag.
  
  
• Zulu Nylon Gear Mega Admin Pouch
  
• Sea to Summit Ultrasil Pack Cover
  
• EEZ-Y Compact Travel Umbrella
  
• Stearns Dry Wear Raincoat
  
• AmazonBasics Packing Cube
  
• Mechanix FastFit Gloves
  
  Under the flap on my admin pouch and inside the admin pouch you can see my primary toolkit. It's designed to have just about anything I would need for basic repairs throughout a day. I'm not handyman or anything, but I like to be able to solve just about any basic problem with just what is in the pouch. If I'm away from home or my car where I have more in-depth toolboxes, I can still solve most issues I run into.
  
  
• CountyComm EMT/Combat Shears](https://countycomm.com/products/premium-emt-combat-shears)
  
• Veleno Designs Quantum D2 Battery Charger
  
• Micro Cord from TEC Accessories
  
• BIC Lighters
  
• Zip Ties
  
• Wiha Screwdriver Bit Set
  
• Irwin Vise Grip 6in Long Nose Locking Pliers
  
• Nitrile Gloves
  
• T-Rex Tape Mini Roll
  
• PowerPax SlimLine CR123A Battery Caddy with extra batteries
  
• PowerPax 18650 Battery Caddy with extra batteries
  
• Robert Lessard (SAKModder) custom Alox SAK
  
• ThruNite Catapult V6 Mini Thrower
  
• Surefire Minimus Headlamp
  
• Kiya Nail Clippers
  
• Stanley Tape Measure
  
• SERE Pocket Saw
  
• MulWark Ratchet and bits
  
• CountyComm Pocket Widgy Pry Bar
  
• Small tin with extra razor utility blades for my TPT Slide
  
  There are two inner pockets. The mesh pocket has several micro USB and USB-C charging cords, an HDMI cable, cigarette lighter charging plug, and a wall charging plug. The top pocket, as well as the outer slant pocket are filled with assorted items that I want quick access to.
  
  
• Striking Viking Wooden Beard Comb
  
• Metal Chopsticks
  
• CountyComm Super Spork
  
• Prescription Medication
  
• Tissues
  
• Extra set of prescription glasses
  
• Personal first aid kit
  
• Pouch of pens, pencils, sharpies, and general office supplies
  
• Petzl e+LITE Headlamp
  
• Chapstick
  
• Tide to Go Pen
  
• 100% DEET Bug Spray
  
• REI Mesh Stuff Sack](https://www.rei.com/product/118851/rei-co-op-mesh-stuff-sack)
  
• OnePlus Dash Charger
  
• Veho Pebble P-1 Portable Power Bank
  
• NOT PICTURED: Jaybird X3 Bluetooth Headphones
  

It's a hot mess at the moment and I don't have a good photo, but here are the pieces:

• Inline fan https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CTM0JF2/
  
• Flexible duct like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017S4JPW4/
  
• An HVAC "Boot" like this https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Ducts-Degree-Angle-Register/dp/B00BHLFBAK/
  
• a 6" "Wye" connector so I could connect multiple machines https://www.amazon.com/Single-Wall-Galvanized-Wye-Tee/dp/B00E0Q4902/
  
• Foil tape designed for HVAC https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Tape-Foil-Ducts-Insulation/dp/B01FROBUXE/
  
  I put the Amazon links for reference, but shop around. Some of this stuff is much cheaper at Home Depot or other online stores.
  
  I use the foil tape to connect a "boot" directly to the back of the case my mining rig is in. Then connect the flex duct to the boot. Connect the other end to the inline fan. Connect a second piece of flex to the output of the fan and hang the end out of the window.
  
  I've found pulling the heat out works much better than blowing cold air in.
  
  If you have an open mining rig, I've seen people put up small tents like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Valuebox-2x2x4-Small-Indoor-Hydroponics/dp/B01GCHXUVU/ and then just connect the duct to it. That seems to work okay too.

Aloha wau ai oe ! Love you, buddy! I'd like this for contest #1, please :)

For contest number 2... Hmmm...

Iolani Palace, Oahu

Pearl Harbor, Oahu

and Waikiki, Oahu!

Have fun playing tourist ;) and if I win for this I'd like this running book :)

Here! http://imgur.com/TNEgXoh

Here are the parts I ended up buying, everything else (resistors, the potentiometer) was kind of just lying around.

• Copper tape
  
• Wall adapter
  
• DC/DC converter
  
• This is the potentiometer I used, but it really doesn't matter.
  
  More info:
  
  
• On the battery arm, I drilled a small hole and ran a wire from inside the box, through the arm, and through the hole. The wire is soldered to the copper tape.
  
• The little nipple of the positive battery terminal is a banana plug I stripped and cut in half with a hacksaw.
  
• I bought the converter unit with negative polarity, so I had a bit of trouble soldering the switches together properly. If you buy the positive polarity model the wiring should be much more straightforward; that being said, you'll have to deviate from my wiring diagram quite a bit. When in doubt, check the datasheet.
  
• The potentiometer on the left side has the added bonus of integrating a switch! If you turn the temperature all the way down, it will 'click' off. Its switch is separate from the potentiometer portion and it's in series with my power button, meaning you can't fire the power supply unless it's been definitively turned on.
  
• Many thanks to /u/AwesomePixelMan for help with this project! He has done many cool builds like this! This fellow's writeup was also a great resource. (Mine is nearly identical except it adds switches).

My kit, which is usually in some sort of shoulder or back pack, always has a thin roll of Gorilla Tape, a spool of micro-paracord (80 lb test, overkill for most repairs), a powerbank capable of charging my phone to completion more then once and the appropriate cable, condoms (can be used for the obvious but also as a bandage or to carry water), a method to make fire, and some sort of snack. I have a water container with me 100% of the time. Of course there's way more silly things in there, but those things are key.

The micro paracord is super useful, for easy rope and fun/socially. A lady's purse breaks, you can fix that no problem. Need an impromptu keyring? I got ya. Even marking which suitcases go to which hotels in a third world country (most recent time I was happy to have it). Ill grab a link from Amazon. I love it

Tons of colors too, a chain of military surplus stores in my city carries it.
Atwood Mobile Products Micro Sport Cord 1.18mm X 125 Ft Small Spool Lightweight Braided Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073FMLVZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KWC3DbHVWP9ZR

Travel size One inch Gorilla tape
Gorilla Tape, Mini Duct Tape To-Go, 1" x 10 yd Travel Size, Black, (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M2AAGTZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vZC3DbPG9W03W

You want to use duck tape to solve that problem. It won't look as cute as just wearing the diaper, but the right duck tape is the solution.

When I say "right duck tape" I don't just mean the kind that you pick up from the store. You want something that will be sticky and adhere to the material (whether cloth backed or plastic) so that it won't come loose.

I suggest this: https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Tough-Transparent-Duct-Tape/dp/B0000DH8I8

Get the transparent kind, not any other kind. The material is light, and the adhesive is the best for either cloth or plastic. I found these back when ABU tapes were kind in need of a bit of help to stay affixed. This is what I used for that purpose.

Use the tape to just replace the taps. Fold the diaper wings in, and tape it as if the duck tape were the tapes that came with the original diaper. I know this works because I've done it.

I don't suggest any of these:

1. https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Clear-Repair-Duct-Tape/dp/B00EUGCT22/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZAK235JY3Q53R18907MY (bad because of the tape material and failure to adhere to cloth, but improper adherence to plastic)
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-6003001-Tough-2-88-Inch-30-Yards/dp/B003KTLRUA/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZAK235JY3Q53R18907MY (too thick, feels awkward while wearing)
   
3. https://www.amazon.com/Duck-240867-Strength-Inches-Single/dp/B00LT1NAHY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZAK235JY3Q53R18907MY (material does not hold well, and adhesive is generally garbage)
   
4. https://www.amazon.com/Black-Gorilla-Tape-1-88-Roll/dp/B000CSS8UE/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000CSS8UE&pd_rd_r=ZAK235JY3Q53R18907MY&pd_rd_w=xGgRa&pd_rd_wg=1ByEk&psc=1&refRID=ZAK235JY3Q53R18907MY (this would be good for something like repairing a tarp, but other than that, this stuff is just too sticky to reasonably work with)
   
5. https://www.amazon.com/XFasten-Transparent-Filament-Inches-Yards/dp/B01F2VA150/ref=pd_sim_60_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01F2VA150&pd_rd_r=ZAK235JY3Q53R18907MY&pd_rd_w=ZEkgp&pd_rd_wg=1ByEk&psc=1&refRID=ZAK235JY3Q53R18907MY (absolute shit material)

I would suggest an ultratherm. They are awesome UTH's. But as far as securing this to the tank, whether is the zoo med or the ultratherm, use aluminum duct tape.

Ultratherm - https://beanfarm.com/collections/heating/undertank-heaters (Same company also sells on Amazon)

Aluminum Tape - https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Tape-Foil-Ducts-Insulation/dp/B01FROBUXE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525098985&sr=8-3&keywords=aluminum+duct+tape

After securing the heater to the tank, Insulate at least the back, if not 2-3 sides. The best stuff to use is reflectix.

Reflectix Insulation - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Reflectix-16-in-x-25-ft-Double-Reflective-Insulation-with-Staple-Tab-ST16025/100012574?MERCH=REC-_-PIPHorizontal2_rr-_-100052556-_-100012574-_-N

Doesn't get any better than those three links, IMO. Here is a picture of how my tank uses them. https://imgur.com/mfhU7Tk (this was mid-construction)

I've heard gorilla tape is vegan friendly? Does anyone want to fact check me on this? I'm not 100% sure it's vegan-friendly, but I've seen it posted on this subreddit that it is. It comes in different kinds, like clear, camouflage, and I think black as well. It seems to be wider then office tape, but you can just cut it in half. Here's the clear kind:
https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Crystal-Clear-Tape-1-88/dp/B01MFDY41W

Thank you! That is much cheaper than Parafilm, and looks different from the gardening film but is probably the same material. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085OFNVE/ref=pe_2640190_350905710_TE_3p_dp_1 I was mistaken too it's 90' not 250' but for $9 I'm eager to test nonetheless but yours is definitely interesting and I'm going to order some to test as well!

Thanks! Yeah, I had to use tape to keep everything in place. I wish it wasn't necessary, but the adhesive that's on the strips just can't hold up the weight. I ended up using this tape and it's been so great! It's been months and everything is holding up perfectly.

On my Big Green Egg I used a Rutland gasket and adhered it with Permatex ultra copper. This is a popular combination in Big Green Egg land. Many use 3m Super 77 spray adhesive instead of the Permatex.

The BGE is ceramic, not metal, but I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work. As with sticking anything to any surface, the most important thing is that the surface is clean.

I used Aluminium tape, like that: https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Tape-Foil-Ducts-Insulation/dp/B01FROBUXE (not exact brand, I purchased the tape at a local shop). The glue on that is MORE than strong enough to hold onto the lid without moving. That type of lid normally has indentations in it, but I filled them with cardboard before putting the tape on top. It also makes for a more even surface, so I could apply the LED strips more easily :3

I got something like this, but there's so many listings on Amazon that look the same, I'd just go for the cheapest

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019QT97WM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vbNGAb2WY2HK4


Some people say parafilm is optional and you can use a plastic bag instead, but if you're going to do it, might as well try learning how to use this stuff:


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0085OFNVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hdNGAb1MGMG47



Before the shears, I got one of these, but I reground the bevel to the other side because I was using it I guess opposite of how people normally hold it


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008U7IYZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xhNGAbT2GB803



I never tried this, but if you're not a fan of sharpening knives so they're super sharp, but you want to try using a knife, I saw a video where a guy suggested using something like this (not sure what size to get, I guess depends on how big the wood is):


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00096SCAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PlNGAbB0FY889

Looks good. May I suggest you go get some aluminum tape for the blade. LIke the link below. Fold it around the blade and smooth it out with your fingers. Gives a good blade effect. Also, the smoother the wood of the blade the smoother the tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Tape-Foil-Ducts-Insulation/dp/B01FROBUXE

Ha! hope you find what you were looking for on Amazon. If you plan on shipping any of your sample bottles, this parafilm tape is great for sealing bottle tops to prevent leakage. You can also get the shrink sleeves for the bottles, but they can be a nuisance to use.

I know everybody is saying give up, but I bet if you flipped it over, temporarily superglue it back together (just to keep it in the original position), then wrap it REALLY well with this; www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Repair-Tape-Wrap-Waterproof/dp/B009WSDWUG. it would hold.

Hello there! :) Welcome to the group.

I think this Marvel Passport holder or this Super Mario duct tape are the coolest items I have on my $15 and under list.

No issues with probe wires. You need about 9 feet for and xl, but the 7 foot kit will work for a large. I recommend the permatex ultra copper rtv to install.

Rutland Inc Gasket Kit Tape 7'x5/8" 95-6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MIPB6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yyvTAbN709VEY

If you have a good hardware store, they sometimes sell it by the foot from a big roll.

http://www.nakedwhiz.com/rutlandgasket/gasket.htm

2-inch by 50-inch duct tape. It's a small roll and I decided to start packing it every shift I go on because of the time I ripped my pants on a cardiac arrest. My partner had a small roll of duct tape and thankfully I was able to tape my crotch up so we could get the patient into the ER without me embarrassing myself.

Here's a link to a Amazon source for the tape, if you're interested. I normally buy from NAR but this tape is just as good, same price basically too.

Aluminum Tape may be what you're looking for. People use it for prop making all the time. It can be polished to a pretty good mirror finish.

Edit: Fixed link.

While taking the trouble to get a special box they probably could have gotten one that was sound or wireless proof. This box looks neat -
A better stylish smartphone Faraday Box - YouTube

Faraday Fabric
https://www.amazon.com/Shielding-Bluetooth-MILITARY-SHIELDING-CONDUCTIVE/dp/B01M294MGK

https://www.amazon.com/FiberFix-Repair-Tape-Wrap-Waterproof/dp/B009WSDWUG

I fixed my headset in the past after breaking it off at exact same spot. Worked longer than I cared to own that headset and was way stronger than the unbroken side (mine was plastic)

Or if something that is easier to test/implement like liners <- never used them.

In my standard kit my tools would be:

• LED Flashlight
  
• Magnetic Probe
  
• Mirror Probe
  
• "Pointy" Tweezers
  
• Swiss Army Knife (Hiker)
  
• Gloves
  
• USB Endoscope
  
• Small Roll of Duct Tape
  
• Length of String
  
• Length of Wire
  
  Beyond just tools to find or retrieve a cache I have:
  
  
• Water Bottle
  
• First Aid Kit w/Bug Spray and Sunscreen
  
• Bandanna
  
• Charging cables (Micro & Mini USB)
  
• USB Battery Pack
  
• Extra AA for GPS
  
• Small Bag of Almonds
  
• Map of the Wissahickon
  
• Ear Buds / Hands Free
  
• Extra Logs
  
• Extra Baggies
  
• Assorted Bisons and Nanos
  
• Swag Pouch
  
  On my person:
  
  
• Garmin GPSMAP64s
  
• Samsung Galaxy S7 (w/Geocaching & C:geo Apps)
  
• Long Pangs
  
• Hiking Shoes
  
• Hat
  
• Sunglasses
  
  Finally, in my big bag that stays in the trunk most times:
  
  
• Reflector Vest
  
• Binoculars
  
• Large First Aid Kit
  
• Large Flashlight
  
• UV Light
  
• Compass
  
• Extra Swag
  
  My wife likes to mock me with this.
  

This is exactly the kind of thing fiber tape is best for

This would be your best bet, though be warned I have no experience with that site.

There also this stuff, which is pretty similar. Only real difference is the adhesive (and the color, of course), which is designed to not leave any residue after removal for 6+ months.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/300lse-Adhesive-Transfer-Attaching-Digitizers/dp/B00LWFO5R6?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_3816965031

​

This stuff would be more ideal but the LS8071 should work fine. Up to you. Both should provide enough stickage.

I've had success with this stuff.

I imagine you'd plant a ring of cuttings, so you have clones to work with. Then you'd skin off a little bark on both trunks wherever you'd like them to join, maybe rub them with a little rooting hormone, then wrap them with grafting tape.

Don't worry, we have our own special type of duct tape!

It should be mentioned that if it's not used in a certain period of time, mixed with body heat, the adhesive will probably leach out and/or attract pocket fuzz. That will ruin your trendy skinny jeans.

If you want to carry handy rolls of duct tape, get something like this instead: http://www.amazon.com/Adventure-Medical-Kits-Inches-Rolls/dp/B004H87UGS (Or 500" of SOL vs. 18" for $20+.)

If you want to carry duct tape with you, be sure to keep it in a small plastic zip lock bag or aluminum foil to avoid it contaminating things around it. You're more likely to use it in a pinch anyway rather than on a regular basis (repairs vs. helping somebody move) so it'll have time to leach out. You can get small bags from craft stores.

From personal experience with the SOL tape, it's come in very handy for various things and has lasted quite a while since you're less likely to use small amounts for frivolous things. In my daypack, I keep two tapes: duct and medical.

On a different note: my Great Uncle kept his guts from spilling out after a fight using duct tape after somebody slashed him across his belly in his bar.

Here, come to my favorite place to shop...

Makes sense, because the military probably gets good old EB Green or EB Red for $250 a roll.

I use foil tape and rolled up towels. You can also tape up a piece of plexiglass/lexan/whatever over top of the window to create another buffer.

If you haven't done the wheel slip fix then your motor is slipping on the wheel. That's likely the root of your "traction" issues. I bought this tape https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FROBUXE/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You have to take the wheel skin off, wrap about 2 layers of that tape around the motor, then slide the wheel skin back on. Your performance will improve greatly.

(1) My Favorite Shampoo (you can get a push pump for another $10.

(2) Nuclear Red Duct Tape ($4 over budget), they use this stuff on Nuclear Submarines to fix stuff, albeit they get charged over $100 a roll for the same stuff.

I haven't tried this
https://www.amazon.com/FIBER-FIX-Adhesive-Automotive-Emergency/dp/B009WSDWUG

But their ad is interesting if not entertaining.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=haPvuhznuyI

How about a 90 foot roll for $8? I've picked up mine from Amazon two years ago and I have yet to need to buy a new roll. I might have to buy a new roll probably sometime next year. This stuff goes a long way.

No, Duck brand.


Duck Brand 240867 MAX Strength Duct Tape, 1.88 Inches by 35 Yards, Black, Single Roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LT1NAHY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0r8VAb4PCWZT3

Duct tape is fine, but the pros use clear gorilla tape.
Just kidding. Use your ears! Leave the charts at home.

https://www.amazon.com/FIBER-FIX-Adhesive-Automotive-Emergency/dp/B009WSDWUG

Good grip, durable, only downside is its semi-permanent

DO NOT USE SUPER GLUE

use something like this

https://www.amazon.com/300lse-Adhesive-Transfer-Attaching-Digitizers/dp/B00LWFO5R6

you should remove as much of the old residue as possible using isopropyl alcohol

:)

grab a roll of this with the part.. it'll prob be in the same section

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Tape-Foil-Professional-Contractor-Grade/dp/B01FROBUXE

you can bend/cut the corrugated side and jam it in the hole.. and make it airtight with the foil tape.

This always works

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013B1XHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bLaqDbS2G7QD4

here

Fiber Fix might work

even better

Put a Rutland gasket on with permatex ultra copper rtv. You’ll never have to put another gasket on

Rutland Inc Gasket Kit Tape 7'x5/8" 95-6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MIPB6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H-DxDbD9RZRZZ

Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEOPA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l.DxDbSSQRWPR

3m 300LSE does seem to be double sided.

This stuff, right?

https://smile.amazon.com/3M-8979N-Performance-Nuclear-48mm/dp/B000NG61G8/

Interesting.... I wonder if the insulation aluminum tape would also work. I have this already at home: https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Tape-Foil-Ducts-Insulation/dp/B01FROBUXE/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1543196012&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=insulatin+tape

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TitanRF-Faraday-Fabric-Shielding-Conductive-Silver/dp/B01M294MGK

Some assembly required. Adhesive included.

You mean my $20 Fiber Fix won't work?

Also I used this tape to keep the mat attached :https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Tape-Foil-Ducts-Insulation/dp/B01FROBUXE/ref=zg_bs_256160011_13?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8MWBZYPB8AWYK1CSQHJK

Get these things Add the Hypafix over the duct tape using the liquid bandage as a hold. Reapply Hypafix every few days until day 6.

​

It is definitly called Duct Tape. https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Use-Duct-2930-C-Inches-Yards/dp/B0013B1XHEIt was origionaly invented for use in ducting and the company decided to use the name “duck” because it sounds simular. It has become an genericized trademark over the years.

Hood
Window tint for inside the hood
Suit
Gloves
Duct tape

For everyone worried about sun and rain, this would work: Nuclear Grade Duct Tape.

Product's description: "8979N provides clean removal with little or no sticky adhesive residue for up to 6 months. Sunlight/UV and Water Resistant. Lasts 1 year without degrading. Tape construction consists of high tensile cloth and aggressive adhesive."

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Tape-Foil-Ducts-Insulation/dp/B01FROBUXE

Hard alumium tape with adhesive backing.

Oh, so it isn't this, then. Ok

Find ways of protecting yourself while you're sitting still and sleeping, as that's when you're most vulnerable. I've written about radiosurgery, which is the act of destroying select tissue with electromagnetic radiation. There's a real threat of permanent brain damage. Do what it takes to stay healthy.
What is your budget?

I've tried the following (from /r/emshielding sidebar):

• Twin-size 8ft x 4ft conductive blanket: PET felt sandwiched around a copper layer (copper taped to the PET felt's aluminum backing), w/ground braid to wall outlet. Try without grounding first. Use hot glue for a flexible bond between the layers.
  
• Aluminum panels connected end-to-end with aluminum tape, with outer copper flashing layer, around the perimeter of a bedframe, to test nearby horizontal line-of-sight vectors (even if through the walls).
  
• Steel panels coated with layers of butyl rubber products for damping.
  
  I would recommend instead of the above (which was me prototyping and testing vectors), do it the right way the first time, and build my ventillated sleeping enclosure (~$1,000 for aluminum, plus add'l layers), and coat it with layers of shielding materials (copper flashing > butyl > sheet steel > buytl > sheet lead > butyl), until you achieve complete relief. Don't skimp on the fans and power supplies.