Reddit mentions: The best dvi-hdmi adapters

I'll add my experience as well since I just went through this Friday (and I'm also a scala guy, who recently came from a mac). I'll add a quick note that my primary goal with the dual boot is to use Windows for occasional gaming and Linux as my primary driver 99% of the time.


a) I wiped the supplied windows and reinstalled windows clean. I thought about keeping the install, but a couple screens into the setup was a Mcafee screen with my email address pre-populated and noped right out of there and wiped the disk. I think with Windows especially it's valuable not having to deal with all the pre-installed software. All the drivers are available here:


http://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/19/product-support/product/xps-15-9560-laptop/drivers


I recommend downloading them all and throwing them on a usb as the wireless card doesn't work out of the box in windows, just run all the installers after the install. Before running the install, I recommend disabling secure boot and setting the hard drive to 'ahci' in the BIOS, otherwise the installer won't be able to see the disk.


b) I also have a 1tb hard drive and decided on a new 50/50 split between the two operating systems. Games are very large, so I wanted plenty of space for my windows install, additionally my previous linux install only had about 250gb, so I know I won't have any issues with disk space. However, depending on your uses this may vary.


c) You can read & write the ntfs drive just fine, however I personally don't like sharing underlying file systems between operating systems. I use a combination of dropbox and git, however I have almost no use cases that require any meaningful sharing of data between the two operating systems.


d) I use arch linux personally with XMonad. Arch linux is nice because you always get pretty up to date software and it allows you easy access to most software via the AUR. Since your a functional guy like me, you may enjoy XMonad which is configured using Haskell. At the start there is a steep learning curve, but in the end you end up with a highly customized window manager that you can bend to your will in any way you wish. Otherwise I'd recommend using XFCE or Mate, both of which are lightweight. I personally don't care for unity or gnome 3 at all.


e) cool, me too


f) Some general notes I'd add:

• I'd recommend disabling secureboot in the bios and setting the hard drive to 'ahci'
  
  
  
• If you have a HiDPI monitor, I'd recommend buying a usb-c to DP adapter, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible-DisplayPort/dp/B01K51GM46/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485869850&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+c+dp+adapter+cable+matters
  
  
  
• UEFI isn't especially difficult to handle using either refind or grub, I recommend installing windows first and using the existing efi partition as your boot partition.
  
  
  
• Install bumblebee on your system to manage selectively using the discrete nvidia gpu. It works by allowing you to use a special launcher to launch an app powered by the nvidia card, otherwise it leaves the video card powered off to save power. It's very simple to install and use.
  
  
  
• The brightness of the screen has a huuuge impact on battery life, so much that decreasing the display brightness by half nearly doubles battery life. Luckily, the display is very bright and even running at 20% brightness is still plenty bright for regular use.
  
  
  
• Other than using the discrete video card, everything works extremely well out of the box on linux, so regardless of which way you decide to go, you shouldn't have too difficult of a time ahead.
  
  Good luck! If I think of anything else I'll add it.

I'm 18, I'm a student and a IT guy (pretty good one too). I like fixing stuff


What I put in my pockets


Verizon LG G3 An oldie but goodie, been weilding this phone for a little over 2 years. Currently is running Cyanogenmod 13. Also has a 3rd party Anker battery inside which are a bit nicer than the one the phone comes with

Buxton Tri-Fold wallet Very sturdy and nice feeling wallet. My grandparents got it for me half as a joke as my last name is Buxton. Holds a second battery for my phone in addition to all the money I dont have.

Keyring with 144GB of Flash Storage on it. Keys for my house, and assorted flash drives. 2 8GB and 2 64GB. One 64GB is for my portable build of Ubuntu, the other is for Storing files on the go. One 8GB is for Hirens Boot CD, and the last one doesnt work and i'm too much of a lazy ass to take it off. Plus it looks cool.

Feild Notes I think everyone on EDC has one of these. Super handy. Above it is my handy Pilot G2, my personal favorite pen. Ive been using that one for about a year and it shows it with all the chew marks at the top.

Random Skullcandy Headphones.

Things I put in my bag


iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit Probably the best toolkit for computer repair, has literally every single screwdriver tip imaginable, plus some really handy tools for things like phone and tablet repair

2016 Razer Blade A wonderful gaming laptop, that can actually be used in the real world. Is very thin and light considering what's on the inside. Holds a 5ish hour battery life, so I'm not tethered to a wall all the time.

Steam Controller Wonderful for Gaming on the Go. It's a very good controller for PC Gaming, but only for certain people. First person shooters would totally suck on this controller (but then again they suck on every controller), but works very nicely for the games I play.

Logitech MX Master Probably the nicest mouse I have ever used in my life. Fits super well in my rather large hands, and the thumbrest button, speed adaptive scroll wheel, and horizontal scroll in addition to wonderful tracking and bluetooth support make it my favorite mouse of all time.


Cable Matters Thunderbolt Dock Very handy for a laptop that doesnt have Ethernet or VGA output, and an Extra USB port never hurt anyone either.

USB 3 & Micro USB OTG, SD Card and Micro SD card Adapter. Can plug into either standard USB or Micro USB, works as an adapter for a Micro SD or an SD Card. Also useful for a computer that doesnt have an SD card slot.

Microfiber cloth. The Razer Blade is a fingerprint magnet, so this comes in handy quite often.

> The HDMI spec's only single mention of DVI is a way to tell them apart when the same cable/connector is being employed, and only the DVI protocol has 1440p because you can have any random resolution.

The HDMI spec outlines the required interoperability with DVI, which means it's still part of the HDMI spec. There are a couple of sections on this.

> Finding plenty of examples of going from DisplayPort to DVI/HDMI-connector isn't relevant, the tech isn't bi-directional in this scenario.

They are examples of adaptor manufacturers supporting the particular resolution in DVI, illustrating that it's seen as commonplace enough to implement.

As I mentioned, in general I'm mainly talking about your initial statement about HDMI which I think is still misleading even if you include the word 'spec'.

As far as adaptors are concerned, I'm not arguing that it's likely a supporting adaptor will be released - it probably depends on demand. I can find examples of active adaptors supporting 1440p at 60Hz for example, it's perhaps just a bit more expensive+difficult to implement higher refresh rates.

> There might be some larger equipment somewhere that can accept DVI-over-HDMI and output it to DisplayPort, but you wouldn't call this an "adaptor"

There are active adaptors that provide 1440p from HDMI to DisplayPort, albeit not at higher refresh rates yet that I can find as mentioned. They are called just that: active adaptors, because circuitry is required for the translation. Just like my linked WMR adaptor examples. Maybe you're thinking of only passive adaptors?

> What you're asking for is both where the source is a HDMI connector.

I'm not "asking for" anything. I do however say that an active adaptor is not particularly out of the realm of possibility.

I'm guessing that even if an active adaptor supported the required resolution & refresh rate, there'd be some kind of timing issue anyway. I honestly don't care about an adaptor for the Oculus Rift S at all, I'm just debating your referring to HDMI's support.

> Write some code that uses 2 graphics cards that receives on one and outputs on the other, though everything needs to be there that the Rift S wants.

I'm not sure what you mean here - are you talking about using two graphics cards to do the job of an active adaptor?

(Like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolution/dp/B00JQORLCG )

With all due respect, while you may work for a company that deals with video interface implementation, I don't think that either of us are really qualified to comment on the implementation of active adaptors.

I am a sucker for screen real estate and have been using a 40" 4k TV (Samsung UN40KU6300) mostly for programming work for about three years now. -- I love it, but there are some trade-offs to consider:

• Resolution/PPI
  A 40" 4k TV has about 110ppi, about the same as a 20" HD (1920x1080) monitor. I would probably not go any bigger than 40" (or maybe 43") and I would not use any non-4k TVs. -- Look at this page if you want to play around with various display sizes and see the corresponding PPI.
  
• Power on/Power off (might be specific to the TV model I use):
  
  • Unlike a monitor, when waking the computer from sleep or powering it on, the TV does not wake up by itself. I have to turn it on via the TV's remote. Inversely, when the PC is suspended/turned off, the TV will display "No Signal" for about 10 minutes and then turn off. (Or you can again turn it off manually).
    
  • Also, after powering on the TV it takes several button pushes on the TV remote for my model to get it to switch to chroma 4:4:4 subsampling again.
    
• Connectivity:
  Your TV will not have a Display Port, but only HDMI. You want HDMI 2.0 for 4k @ 60Hz and chroma 4:4:4 subsampling. I think nowadays most graphics cards have a HDMI 2.0 capable HDMI port. In the past I have used this Display Port 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapter with success. Also most TVs will only have one HDMI port that is capable of handling 4k @ 60Hz with chroma 4:4:4 subsampling. (Read your TV's manual). This might be an issue for you if you want to hook up multiple computers to the same display.
  
• Ergonomics
  
  • The way I use my TV when working is basically like a monitor. I am NOT sitting further back from it (which IMHO would defeat the purpose of having that much screen real estate). It does fill a large part of my field of vision and looking from one side to the other requires you to move your head. The way I typically work is that my editor/command line occupies about 2/3rds of my screen's width, and a browser with email and some chatting software takes up the other 1/3rd, which IMHO mitigates this.
    
  • The width of the 40" TV and its PPI is almost exactly the same as this 38" Dell Ultra Wide monitor. My TV is just a little taller (and only cost half as much in 2016 as that monitor does in 2019).
    
  • You probably need to improvise some kind of stand for the TV. For me, the stand that the TV came with caused it to sit way too low on my desk. And most monitor stands won't accommodate the size/weight of the TV. -- I ended up building something myself out of plywood, a 2x4 and some clamps/screws, to clamp the whole thing to my desk so that it doesn't slide off.
    
  • Since you are sitting very close to the screen, the angle at which you look at, say, the center portion is quite different from the corners of the monitor. For the TV that I am using this means that I am noticing a slight shift in color and brightness when looking at the center of the screen vs. the corners. This might be specific to my TV model and it doesn't bother me. IMHO it is a complete non-issue for editing source code or word processing, but I would not want to do any photoshopping where color accuracy is required on this setup.
    
    In general, I would recommend checking out this article on rtings.com, rating TVs for monitor usage.
    
    <tl;dr>
    
    A 40" 4k TV will give you about the same PPI as a 20" HD monitor, so no issues there. Make sure you are fine with HDMI 2.0 instead of Display Port inputs and use a TV that is capable of chroma 4:4:4 subsampling, particularly when editing text.
    
    However, there are certain trade-offs you have to be aware of when using a TV as a monitor. It works well for things like programming or text editing, but not so much in cases where color accuracy across the screen is required. Also in the days of 38" ultra wide monitors a 40" TV as monitor does not sound that crazy anymore.
    
    </tl;dr>
    
    ​
    
    Disclaimer: Not affiliated with any of the sites/products linked to in this post besides having actually purchased/used them myself...

I love.

The display was the biggest upgrade for me. The display brightness is higher, the high PPI and amazing viewing angles are great, and the whole macOS UI scales well with the resolution.

The larger trackpad is useful when paired with BetterTouchTool. I use the extra real estate space for more complicated gestures. Pressing top left or right to switch tabs for example. The trackpad doesn't click anymore; it's force-touch now with audio feedback but you'll get use to it. I prefer the new trackpad because I don't actually have to use much force to click anymore.

The keyboard is definitely different from the older model. The key travel isn't nearly as large but it is larger than the first generation butterfly keyboard. Eventually I got use to it and can switch between a regular keyboard and the new one just fine. Personally, I like the new one for a few reasons: the keys don't feel as mushy and the whole platform depress uniformly no matter where you press.

The weight, or lack thereof, is a huge bonus. I can definitely feel the difference on my back. The 2011 was way heavier by comparison.

The USB-C situation isn't a big inconvenient for me. I switched to using a USB-C to microUSB for remote play so that isn't an issue. For all other USB-A or HDMI/VGA uses, I got this.

Finally, battery life and software stability are great. I never had an issue with them. The last time I fully powered my Macbook off was 2 months ago. It's been on and off the charger with no restart since. I wake it each morning for work and put it to sleep by closing the lid each night. Leave it in my backpack overnight and use it again in the morning.

So, to reiterate. I love it. For me, the price was worth it.

Your best bet is a somewhat not outdated to hell video card that properly supports hdmi 2.0 .

Also 1920x1200 is a 16:10 ratio NOT 16:9 , your tv is best with a 16:9 ratio

with your current card the best you could output to that tv and it look correct would be 2560x1440 (1440p) 16:9 ratio

you could do this with an ACTIVE DVI > hdmi adapter that supports full updated hdmi spec , You would then use the DVI ports on your video card (as thats the ports that support the resolution you would need )
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495939443&sr=1-1&keywords=dvi+to+hdmi+active


That being said , just buy a new video card. Don't try to hack a old card to get it to work with a modern TV with HDMI . just buy a new card , it doesn't have to be to fancy , almost anything around 60 / 100 bucks would be way better then what you have . grab a used one on craigslist or something , then you can just use HDMI directly .


Good luck man !

Biggest question I have is why two desktops?

I can't speak to the room layout since you need those doors. However, If your monitors have the ability and you use both gaming machines yourself, I personally would do the following:

• Move both desktops to a location off the desk top. Say, on the far left side. We're going to be scooting you slightly to the right anyway so there's no problem. You can put one outside the desk leg and one inside if they fit that way. You could even stack them if you think the Corsair can take it. Either way, I suggest putting the laptop on top of them like you do now
  
• Install Synergy+ or a related free software to use one keyboard/mouse for all three machines if you can install it on your work laptop. That lets you get rid of one keyboard/mouse and you can potentially keep your laptop plugged in to your system all the time depending on your monitors. However, the one on the far right looks like an Asus VE247h or similar and it has three inputs. You're only using HDMI and you can use an HDMI to DVI adapter to use another. Then you have input control at your fingertips.
  
• Go triple-monitor. Put your 27" in the middle and the two 24"s on the sides. You have the space for it. This leaves your right hand side (writing side) for arm support or handwritten notes. Yes, I see that paper pad and tablet there.
  
• Wire up whatever combination of the computers to monitors you can. For example, monitors 1 and 2 go to gaming computer 1 and laptop and monitor 3 is always on desktop 2. That or some combination thereof, depending on your laptop's capability (psst: you can use a USB to HDMI video card to extend if you need or want it. I use 2 of them for my work laptop for 4 total screens. There are USB to other output adapters too)
  
• Ideally, get arms for your monitors. That'll get them off your desk, give you room for your mouse/keyboard/speakers, and enable you to hide cables easier. I have these and they work pretty well if you don't move your monitors much.
  
• Now cables and peripherals. Use either double sided tape or screws to mount your power strips under your desk at the back. Same with the Arris. You don't need those on your table. Sinice you're an Ikea guy, grab some cable baskets and put them under there too. That lets you run your extra cables out of sight.

Hey there! I do IT/SOHO Support on the side, so I feel like I could help you, but I am gonna need a few more details. I will provide brief explanations for the questions in parentheses which may solve your issue outright. Here we go!

• What graphics card do you have? (I assume RX 480 based on the thread in which you posted this)
  
  
• What video inputs does your monitor use? (If you are converting to VGA, you may only have analog inputs available, which leads to...)
  
  
• Do you know which DVI adapter/cable to use? (DVI-I is both analog and digital, DVI-D is digital, DVI-A is analog. Then there are dual-level DVI inputs, but if you are using an adapter it is mostly irrelevant. Look up the conversion differences depending on what you are trying to do. VGA (analog) monitors are less and less likely to work with newer graphics cards).
  
  
• Are you able to use an HDMI cable to test this computer on a television? (This can verify that the drivers, BIOS, config, etc. are at least working through another port on the card. If you only see BIOS then you need to change the default graphics device (typically to PCIE1). If you don't see shit then remove and replace the GPU, confirm the 6 or 8 pin power connection (depending on GPU model), and call the OEM for support if still out of luck )
  
  EDIT: So just for perspective with my XFX RX480 8GB reference model: I have two monitors. One is connected through an Active Display Port --> DVI-D adapter --> DVI-D Monitor ( this adapter ) and the other monitor uses an HDMI (male) to DVI-D Male cable. If you are trying to use VGA, you would be best off spending money on a new monitor/tv. The tech to convert analog/digital signals is overpriced and full of issues.

The OSSC is the best and probably most affordable solution and works 100% fine with a cheap Active DVI/HDMI to VGA converter. I have the one below.

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Converter-Black/dp/B01FL7H7HA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487897614&sr=1-3&keywords=dvi+vga+active

It offers lag free upscaling at 2x, 3x, 4x, or 5x(1600x1200!) with the latest firmware. I's pretty incredible with the clarity you can get on 240p at 5x. I have mine setup to a HP p1130 (rebranded Sony Trinitron) for SNES, Genesis, Saturn, Xbox, and Wii using SCART and component where applicable. I then use my Dreamcast w/ VGA box and XBox 360 w/ VGA cable on the second input.

Don't waste your time with a Gnobes GBS-8200/8220. They don't properly process 240p (it considers it 480i material), end up with a lot of artifacts, and uses a scaler that introduces lag as well. Supposedly using a SLG will mask the visual issues a bit, but it still isn't ideal and once you add in the SLG to the GBS-8200 cost and cable adapter you start to get pretty close to a used XRGB2/3. I started out with a GBS-8200 but wasn't happy with the quality.

Ideally I'd try to get on the list to buy an OSSC. Another good option is a used XRGB2 or XRGB3 (B1mode) in line-double mode which takes 240p and outputs in 480p without introducing any lag. They work about as well as the OSSC, but can't do the higher integer multipliers that the OSSC can. I have an XRGB3 that I got before I was up on the OSSC purchase list and it was just as effective on a VGA monitor. Your only issue might be finding one, but they pop up on ebay and shmups forum for sale section from time to time. They could be less than an OSSC if you find a deal.

New update been testing out for a while with new drivers plus the club 3d adapter, my TV will still randomly drop signal for a second every once in a blue moon but it doesn't hard drop like before where it would rearrange the desktop as if a new device was plugged in. Figured I'd should let people know in case they go looking for answers.
--------------------------------------------------


So I finally bit the bullet and picked up one of these Club 3D DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 adapters

DP TO HDMI CLUB 3D Amazon

because my 4k TV flickering was driving me insane. Been testing for about a day on 1.7.6.2 and a few hours on 1.7.7.1 versions and so far no flickering or disconnects. Things to note is my display looks a touch darker on its natural settings, it's running at 60HZ vs 59HZ naturally so on first boot that's what I got thankfully. No more tooling around trying to force 60HZ to match my other 2 monitors.

Other thing to note, it comes up as RGB 4:4:4 in Radeon Additional settings now, it used to come up as 4:2:2, I've done quick tests and it looks to actually show 4:4:4 Chroma.

From my understanding it has to do with how the display talks to the GPU, either HDCP disconnects for some random reason which is one of the reasons I think the adapter works.

OR

It's an EDID thing, where the monitor is saying one thing and the Windows/GPU is saying another. Apparently something like this also works.

EDID Override adapter (HAVEN'T TESTED THIS MYSELF) Video trying to prove their theory

Honestly would have loved to just had an update that fixed this but it got to the point where I just said I'm done with it, going to fix it myself. HDMI on any version of Windows has always been pretty broken. Scaling is always off, refresh rate is random, chroma subsampling is always off so the picture looks just janky. Might as well use DisplayPort instead.

Curious to see if anyone has experienced the issue with DP or is it just HDMI, or has anyone seen any issues after using an adapter between display and GPU?

Cheers guys.

Edit should have mentioned I'm using an RX 480

Your model, as listed on newegg.com, actually has the Intel HD Graphics 5000 iGPU.

Moving on, I'm operating under the assumption that one of your monitors is plugged into the VGA port, and the other two are plugged into the DVI-D ports of your docking station - is that correct?

I suspect the issue may stem from the fact that your iGPU only supports a maximum resolution of 1920x1200 over the DVI interface, though it seems odd that this would be the case, given that there are two discreet ports; however, I would not be surprised if it happened to be the case that your laptop sees the docking station as one unified port, and thus will only output to one of your monitors, since (1920 1080) 2 >> 1920 * 1200.

Now, I don't mean to criticize, but I am a little concerned that you spent $180 + tax on a docking station for the stated purpose of running two monitors off of it when your computer also has an HDMI port. I understand that your monitors are strictly VGA and DVI input, but that doesn't mean they explicitly have to run off of a DVI port. You can also buy a single USB 3.0 to DVI adapter to round everything out.

If you have some reason to keep the docking station (you want the extra USB 3.0 ports, for instance), it's obviously more than OK to keep it. However, if the only reason you bought it was for the DVI ports, return it. Get an HDMI to DVI adapter (I've used cheap ones before, worked fine), and then a USB 2.0/3.0 to DVI adapter. I think that should solve your issue, and hopefully save you a few bucks too. If you want to keep the docking station, just buy the HDMI to DVI cable and you should be good to go.

EDIT: a link

Its not exactly what your looking for. But an option Ive used to hook up my 3rd monitor (read: 42in LG 1080p) was a USB3.0 to HDMI converter.

Streams perfectly, checked on color and blacks. Played Bioshock Infintity on it. Was a great solution incase you find a great deal on a card for 2/3 slots and need an extra :)

Edit: $50 on Amazon Prime http://amzn.com/B00BPEV1XK

Here is my build list formated for reddit

Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXLYE4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012N6EW6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTJZTZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Hitachi HD​S723020BLA​642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I60OGUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1CC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IUW7YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQRFY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN550AC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XWQF28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C99MUHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q5E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X0ZJZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2760&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10201&cs_id=1020101&p_id=3622&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030304&p_id=5435&seq=1&format=2
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVMHI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45NCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LVZO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHHP7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0IF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 | https://www.amazon.com/FUnc-FUNC-HS-260-1ST-fUnc-HS-260/dp/B00HH3H83U
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIPT30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAQD4YA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081ZBNI4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4N/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G3UK5C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWOJLSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00024BJZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJBENG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 | https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-GVRLA1850ND-Great-Value-LED-15W-A19-Light-Bulb/38596922
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052012&p_id=5795&seq=1&format=2
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052006&p_id=5834&seq=1&format=2
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ETIKH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1BWMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XQORTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5287&seq=1&format=2
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022809&p_id=7677&seq=1&format=2
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B81K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=12232&seq=1&format=2
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=3005&seq=1&format=2
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=4564&seq=1&format=2
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Common-2-in-x-8-in-x-10-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-7-25-in-x-10-ft-Lumber/4082916
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Stud/1000074211
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-3-in-Clamp/50214643
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-4-in-H-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Interior-Exterior-Mortise-Door-Hinge/4772785
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJSAAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just get one of the basic adapters like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01K51GM46/

I can't promise that that particular adapter will work well, as sometimes individual adapters have minor variations that cause issues, but several people mention it working well with the Rift S.

The odds of any particular one are good since they're not "active" adapters, they don't regenerate, translate or convert the signal. They're just physical adapters connecting the right pins. All the smarts is in the software on your computer and device.

The expensive ones you're seeing are usually for some other type of conversion where they have to do an active conversion, or act as a display adapter where there is none (like connecting HDMI over USB 2.0).

I'm not too well versed in VirtualLink, I believe it's a working group or committee standard developed by multiple companies, of which Valve is one. It's unlikely that anyone would be contractually required to use any port. The companies just work together to develop a standard that they're all comfortable using, and then they use it because they think it's beneficial. Sometimes it doesn't work out that way, sometimes a particular standard has too many issues and doesn't really catch on until version 2, sometimes they're just abandoned entirely for technical or non-technical reasons.

No VR headsets require VirtualLink, DP via DP, Thunderbolt or USB-C 3.1 Gen2 ports should support them all.

I did a research about the Explorer (since I noticed that people love their Explorers and they said good things about it) so I got interested in it as well and I think I can reccommend you to **not use the flip up display thing since it is sensitive and it can break easily** (instead use the Flashlight feature that allows you to see the real world using its cameras without taking off the HMD)

​

As for the BT donle I heard good things about this **Plugable BT dongle** :

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Bluetooth-Adapter-Raspberry-Compatible/dp/B009ZIILLI/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538640779&sr=1-4&keywords=bluetooth+4.0+dongle

Also some GPUs require the right display port (in order to get 90 fps at max and not only 60 fps) so I am also going to buy the **Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter**

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0C7QO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

And I found that the best rechargeable AA batteries are these of Eneloop (I am also going to buy the standard charger they have with it) :

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSMJU/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?pd_rd_i=B01G3SS04A&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=KS01C5W02E586HF605CW&pd_rd_wg=E0zRf&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=M28DE&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=2f98b6c6-cc99-11e8-9fea-e722222b4194&th=1

​

These are the stuff I decided to buy for my yet to be purchased Explorer after doing my research.

Okay, got it. DisplayPort 1.2 and HDMi 2.0 both support 3440x1440 at 100 Hz, so you have some options.

Something like this looks like it would work pretty well. It looks like only the mini Displayport version is DP 1.2 though.

Otherwise you could go for an HDMi 2.0 switch like this and then pair it with some adapters like this.

no DP is the best, why?

• DP 1.3 HBR3 mode has 80% more bandwidth than HDMI 2.0, DVI is severity outclassed here
  
• DP 1.4 supports HDR, much better deep blacks, way better color, this is what blur-ray 4k has support for and newer tvs too, hdmi 2.0b also supports this
  
• DP supports Daisy Chaining of displays or you can use a MST Hub 1 Output = 3 Displays
  
• DP adapters so you can do DP > HDMI 2.0, DP > DVI, DP > VGA
  
  thats why there are a boatload of adapters, one of the XFX ref backplate cards include a DP>DVI adapter i think
  
  if everyone wanted DVI, we would have been stuck at 1600p60 for a 100 years..
  
  those adapters i told you about?, dont cost an arm or a leg, its like 18 bucks for a active one dp to dvi or 28 for hdmi 2.0
  
  DisplayPort to DVI or HDMI
  https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/
  
  DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0
  https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54

I'm still waiting for my Rift actually, it arrives in another week, so not sure yet. But if you'd like I can report back when I get everything setup.

10m Active USB.3.0 Extensions (for front sensors)

3m USB 3.0 Extension (for HMD)

3m HDMI Extension (for HMD)

HDMI to DP Adapter (For GPU)

USB 3.0 PCI-E Card (to power the 10m active extensions)

I've read good things about all of these, with a lot of success stories. Hopefully all goes well on my end.

take a look here. #2 (1x USB-C + 1x HDMI) and #3 (2x USB-C + 1x HDMI) look promising. Haven't looked at the others. I'm not sure that 2x USB-C ports means 2x 4k monitors, though. It looks like the Intel HD 620 integrated graphics don't support HDMI 2.0 without a separate chip. You may just be able to get a USB Type-C to Displayport adapter, IDK. I'm out of my depth here, I recommend making a post over at the Notebookreview forums where the real nerds hang out.

Edit: Actually, this is a thing. So I'm guessing you'll be OK as long as you have two USB Type-C ports, plus a separate port for power. You may even be able to daisy-chain two monitors somehow.

Continued research says that Displayport 1.3 and newer is enough bandwidth for 2x 4k 60hz. Holy cow. I think maybe the monitors have to explicitly support daisy chaining, or else you need a DP hub, but as long as you get something with USB C (with Thunderbolt for good measure, most of the nice machines have it anyway) you should be OK.

In interest of asking good questions, you should mention what video card you have. Actually most modern video cards will be happy doing HDMI over the DVI port.

Get a cable like this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8UL8U

Or get an active display port adapter. Save the real HDMI port for the vive. Here is a link to a full size display port adapter, I bought one for my 21:9 monitor. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00EDT0072

Doesn't the link box have a display port connection? https://www.vive.com/eu/support/category_howto/when-to-use-mini-displayport.html

I did some more reading and found out I need an active DisplayPort adapter because my GPU needs two special clocks for the other two ports. DVI and HDMI both use this clock, but DisplayPort doesn't, so to have a third monitor I need an adapter that will take that DisplayPort signal, actively convert it into what I need (HDMI), and then output that signal. I plan to be getting this one, hopefully that should do the trick.

Thank you for your assistance, it's greatly appreciated.

The issues I've run into in the past were related to monitors not handling the DisplayPort protocol properly (BenQ XL2720Z, XL2730Z firmware bugs) causing black screens, etc. With these Dell S2716DG monitors using DisplayPort, everything works amazingly and responds super quickly. I've been able to pull off at least four concurrent displays, one being the Vizio TV on DVI-I to HDMI, with every GPU I've tried it with (GTX 980 and TITAN X).

With the HP 27xw, you'll have to rely on DisplayPort to HDMI adapters since no DP input. I'm not sure how well passive DP to HDMI adapters will work on the GTX 1070 (whether it will work with 2+ passive adapters or not). They should work fine for 1080p60, but I haven't been able to test such a setup. Active adapters have the potential to increase latency, and may fail due to the nature of being active. However, they can properly convert DP to HDMI, resolving issues that may arise with (multiple) passive adapters.

Passive DP to HDMI adapter

Active DP to HDMI adapter

Active DP to HDMI 2.0 adapter (supports UHD@60Hz)

Edit: The GTX 1070 should be more than capable of handling a four display setup, seeing how it surpasses the GTX TITAN X in benchmarks.

Hi Microsoft specifically recommends these adapters:

USB 3.0 Type C to HDMI (with Thunderbolt 3 support):

• Plugable USB-C to HDMI 2.0 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727QQLV2 or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FIVSC6Y)
  
• Accell USB-C to HDMI 2.0 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FIVSC6Y)
  
• Microsoft USB-C to HDMI 2.0 adapter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KRFB8X)
  
  Source:
  https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4039260/windows-10-mixed-reality-pc-hardware-guidelines
  
  I think the headset cables are long enough to reach to the other side of the laptop to plug into the USB 3.0 A port - but a 3-foot USB 3.0 extension cord would be OK to use to optimize cable management. Keeping the adapters simple is probably a good bet as USB-type-C compatibility is ironed out. I recommend staying away from cheap, off-brand multi-function usb-type-C hubs that have hdmi+ethernet+usb ports all-in-one.

All the new docks that support Thunderbolt 3 and device power in one cable seemed like they were not out yet (and are expensive), so I went for a "cheap dock" solution. You can get a Thunderbolt 3 to Displayport adaptor like this for $20: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible-DisplayPort/dp/B01K51GM46/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481764413) . If your display supports Display Port out you should be able to Daisy Chain from Display 1 to Display 2 with just another Display Port cable. I also picked up a USB-C to Ethernet adaptor $17: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Ethernet/dp/B00X4S587K/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481764546&sr=1-5) . My monitor has a USB-A hub in it, so a $9 USB-A to USB-C adaptor from Apple allowed me to hook that up and gain 5 legacy USB ports. Anyway, it was about $46 dollars and it working great for me. My only problem has been I picked up a Display Port to DVI cable to try and daisy chain my second monitor and it isn't working.

Alright so, here's the deal for you and posterity. Got the adapter. Perfect 4k@60Hz (had to enable UHD mode on TV obviously) on macOS 10.12.2 (16C68), web drivers 367.15.10.25f02 on the GTX 970.
So we're clear, I'm using Club3D Displayport 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 UHD (CAC-1070) [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BQ8I54/] with KabelDirekt High Speed HDMI Cable with ARC Ethernet (6 ft) [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DI8A1NW]

On winblows, it still works perfectly 4k@60hz like before (aka when I wasn't using the adapter). I just had a long gaming session @ 4k60fps no sweat.

Audio on macOS also works fine with injected Toleda's audio DSDT (didn't change anything, it's the same I installed when I was running via HDMI out, hopefully via DP I don't get random sound cracking or complete muffling as experienced via HDMI).

Not quite a "simple" DP>DVI converter, since it has to be active like this one for single link DVI (up to 1920x1080), or this one for dual link DVI (up to 2560x1440) or this one for HDMI.

It has to be active, because passive converters rely on the GPU sending out DVI or HDMI signals from the DisplayPort (using DisplayPort++, that's what the ++ means), so it's not really DisplayPort.

Technically, some Radeon cards only have two clocks to drive external monitors, so you can only use two legacy (DVI, HDMI) monitors at the same time. If the monitors share the same resolution and refresh rate they might be able to share the same clock, depending on the board manufacturer.

DisplayPort is clockless, so you can attach as many of those as you can fit, or if you use an active adapter then the clock on the GPU isn't used and it's generated by the adapter, so again you can use as many as you can fit.

Wow, thanks so much for all your input. I really appreciate it. I wanted to have this thing set up by the weekend and decided to buy an adapter myself.

I hope it works just as well as the one you linked. I got it here: Cable Matters Gold-Plated DisplayPort to HDMI Male to Female Adapter - 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0UDYLM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_XZmuxbBK3BNP5

Which two did you buy and what is the resolution and hz of your monitor?

I would expect something like this to be a better one. If it supports eyefinity that is a good sign that it didn't skimp on something. But the main thing you want is an "active" one.

This is one I have and use for hooking my laptop to tvs. Never had an issue: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072

This is a newer company and you can see their adapter is smaller than the other two, but it makes the same claims of support. This one even specifically says hdmi 1.4 support. http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8

Other than those 3, I do not think any other adapter on amazon would be worth buying. The rest are junk that may work with a 1080p tv, but that is it.

I just tried it with my Acer ET322QK and the Club3D Display Port 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 active adapter, and it didn't work. I might try to mess around with the settings on the X, but I'm pretty sure it's a no go.

They do make a newer version of the adapter that supports HDR and Displayport 1.4 if anybody is interested in trying it, but it does state on the product page that the source system must support display port, so seems unlikely.

https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B077JB28KM?th=1

That's a good but expensive monitor.
Whichever monitor you end up buying, do get an active miniDP to HDMI adapter if you wish to make full use of 4K@60Hz from your Surface.
I recommend this one:
Plugable Active Mini DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter (Supports displays up to 4k / UHD / 3840x2160@60Hz)

An HDMI to DVI adapter like this should work and it's what I would buy: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00NH11X64/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459211217&sr=1-2&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi

If it doesn't then you might need an active adapter like this: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459211233&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+active

You want the best connection possible which is always digital. DVI/Displayport/HDMI are all superior to VGA. Just avoid using VGA and you should be fine.

There is such thing as mDP to HDMI 2? Do you happen to have an amazon link? I can't seem to find my way around it.

This looks to be the mDP to HDMI 2 adapter that I would need, right?
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0BWR2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480739016&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=Mini+Displayport+1.2+to+HDMI+2.0+UHD&psc=1

If you happen to see a cable that does it right @ 60hz, please share!

And as for your question, I would ideally want a better framerate -- am I misunderstanding sthng?

Thanks for your help.


EDIT: my understanding is that "HDMI 2.0" is nonsensical for -CABLES- -- is this correct? It's a reference to an adapter, and I would be using a standard HDMI cable from the HDMI2.0 adapter to my TV. Right?

The following is an excerpt from Stack exchange. I cannot confirm if this works, but it might be worth looking into for you.

User - Tohster
Apple's specs show that the late-2014 (which is still being sold today, October 2015) Mac Mini can support up to two displays using its HDMI and thunderbolt ports.
I've confirmed this by trying to plug in 3 monitors directly into the ports on the Mac Mini (two via thunderbolt, 1 via HDMI), with the same results as the OP...one of the monitors is not driven.

The following 3-monitor setup worked for me:

• Late 2014 Mac Mini with 8GB RAM (purchased Oct 2015)
  
• 3 monitors, each with 1920x1200 resolution
  
• Monitor 1: driven by Mac mini HDMI port (HDMI-to-HDMI cable)
  
• Monitor 2: driven by Mac Mini thunderbolt port (I used this thunderbolt-to-DVI cable)
  
• Monitor 3: driven via USB 3.0 adapter (I used this one from CableMatters and have had zero issues with flicker/performance, although I am not trying to play games or watch video on it...I use it for work).
  
  Some notes:
  
  
• You can use a different USB adapter (there are several on the market) but make sure that it's Mac compatible. I previously tried one that had "beta" Mac support and it was terrible.
  
• Thunderbolt-to-HDMI and Thunderbolt-to-DVI cables are really mini-displayport to DVI/HDMI cables....the Thunderbolt ports accept mini-displayport connectors.
  
• For the two natively driven monitors (#1 and #2 above) you can use any combination of HDMI<->HDMI/DVI or thunderbolt<->HDMI/DVI cables depending on what your monitor accepts.
  
  Source:
  
  https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/159382/hook-up-3-monitors-to-mac-mini-late-2014

This is the one I use. I don’t think that having an active adapter matters, but I’ve read some testimonies towards active when using extension cables. I haven’t had any luck with extension cables though so I just run the headset straight into this adapter.

Rankie DisplayPort (DP) to HDMI Adapter, 4K Resolution Ready Converter Audio, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010SDZZ80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vof5Bb7E1Q9BP

Yep! I used to have an AMD video card that required an active mini-DP adapter. I figure my screens weren't working because they were passive, so I tried this Plugable Active adapter. It received picture, but there was a funky flashing/choppy looking bit at the top of the screen. I will have to take a picture of it. Aside from the choppy bit, it worked fine, if I remember correctly.

What other mini-displayport to DP or HDMI (must be 4K compatible) are out there? I am pretty sure the HDMI cable I was using was 1.4 compliant.

If without the adapter the monitor runs at its native resolution then it's almost certainly your adapter, which appears to just be a simple passive cable.

Something like this should fit the bill.

Edit:adapter is the first result from a web search and not a specific recommendation. I've never looked into adapters just saw some things when I was looking for a new monitor. You're better off doing some research on which adapter is the best buy.

Reading up on the R9 290 it looks like it can't actually output 4k over HDMI, only the Displayport. Best way to make it work would be a an Displayport 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapter like this one on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BQ8I54/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1_r

If you don't get that exact one, make sure to get one that is an "Active Adapter"

Hi there! It's always recommended to have both your display and Rift connected directly to your dedicated GPU without adapters, but if you need to use one then we recommend using it for your display rather than your Rift, and connect your Rift directly. Also, not all adapters will work with the Rift. For HDMI to DisplayPort, we approve of the one available here, as we've tested it and have not had problems. If you have any further questions, please click here to submit a ticket. Thanks!

Cool cool, 1xDVI 2x DP. What you can do with this is pick up an HDMI-DVI adapter like this one and slap it into the HDMI output of the card. Bob's your uncle, now you're running.

e: if you have to, you can go to Best Buy, but I wouldn't recommend it because Best Buy is terrible. MicroCenter and Frye's are your best bets, followed by Amazon/Newegg.

yes i would recommend the active displayport adapters to achieve 4x simultaneous displays.

curious - this one says its active. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
have you tried that one^ and the two mini-DP's only - leaving the VGA one out. i'd be interested to know if that gets you 3x displays.

im trying to run a 3 monitor setup but i am confused as to how to proceed, 2 will be used as dual and 1 will be mirroed (tv for movies and etc)

the plugs i have to work with are hdmi,display port and vgi.

For some reason my other hdmi plug and vga,vgi dont seem to connect so im thinking that the lower 3 i listed is the only combination that i can get this too work (sorry if confusing but i tried everything and at my wits end trying to get it to work)

monitor 1 (hp 22er) Monitor 2 (acer x223w) (monitor 3 that will mirror monitor 1 Vizio sv470m)
graphics card geforce gtx 750 ti

if it help my setup with 2 monitors (they just mirrowed each other ) was hdmi (to my vizio and vgi cable acer to pc)

this is what i found that could work but im unsure if i got the right male to female thing. for display port at the back of my pc to connect it to a hdmi cable from my tv

https://www.amazon.ca/Rankie-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter/dp/B010SDZZ80/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495850675&sr=8-3&keywords=dp+to+hdmi+female

if anyone as a better solution or anything il appreciate it and thanks in advance

edit: after looking more into it in the long run would i be better off with this ? would it even work ?

https://www.amazon.ca/Goronya-Splitter-Amplifier-Support-Ultra/dp/B01EN64WQE/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t

I have a monitor similar to this, the Acer G276HLGbd which is just a VA panel instead of IPS. I use a DVI to DP adapter for it, and it's perfect. I use it as my side portrait monitor, but only had free Display Ports on my 980ti, so I got the adapter and it's great.

And more specifically, this is the adapter I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't think there would be any "audio delay" or anything. These adaptors may be "active", but they aren't like transcoders; both displayport and hdmi support pretty much the same colorspaces for video, and same audio formats. All it's doing is changing the transport layer.

Honestly, an HDMI repeater or even your home theater receiver probably would be more or less the same amount of "delay" if not more.

There are however some meh adapters out there, I recently had to go through like two bad ones before I found a good one; it was sort of my fault since I was trying to cheap out by going for inexpensive junk. If you do get one, I highly recommend 'Plugable' brand ones, like this one, this is the one that finally worked for me; they seem to be one of the better and more reputable companies for adapters, etc.

I know you said not TVs but this is what I have and it is awesome 50” Samsung MU6300. Does the 4K at 60hz.

I had to buy this display port to hdmi: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BQ8I54
And this HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRA11IU

I needed both of these for the hackintosh to display in 4K . Do not try to buy other cables unless you are sure they support 4K.

Also you may need to tweak the settings. See this guide:
https://medium.com/@keredson/using-the-samsung-mu6300-40-4k-tv-as-a-computer-monitor-8582390bb824

Not at all.

The USB-C port on the Apple TV is for servicing purposes only. Not for regular users to use.

Even if it was a fully functional USB-C port, USB-C isn't magic.

It will only support what the host device actually supports.

Currently, there are no USB-C to HDMI 2.1 dongles on the market.

However, even when they become available, I guarantee you will not be able to just plug them into the Apple TV and get HDMI 2.1.

You must have seen HDMI 2.0 dongles like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Compatible-Thunderbolt-Supports-Resolutions/dp/B01FIVSC6Y/

Dongles like this are not magic. They will not automatically work with any USB-C device. They will only work with devices that specifically support sending a HDMI 2.0 signal over the USB-C port.

The host device need to be electrically wired to do this. The Apple TV 4K is not.

Additionally, the graphics in the device need to be capable of outputting a HDMI 2.1 signal. The A10X in the Apple TV 4K is not capable of that.

VGA uses analog signal while most modern GPUs/displays only use digital signal.

For DVI, there used to be three main types - DVI-A for analog signal, DVI-D for digital signal and DVI-I which was able to transfer both analog and digital.

So what EVGA means is imho that there are many VGA to DVI-I or DVI-A adapters, but it won't work.

If you really want to do this, you need an adapter with an active electronic component that will convert the signal. Something like this - https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Adapter-Converter/dp/B01FL7H7HA unfortunately, these things are finnicky so even an active convertor might not work properly.

My 5-year-old 27" Samsung 1080p TN monitor broke last week, so I went down to Costco and picked up this exact model for $369. I love it. I'll be trying to get a price match on this model, but i had a feeling it'd go on sale for Black Friday since it's been on sale a couple times this month. It's one of the better 40" 4k TVs to use as a monitor, according to: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ku6300.

Input lag and reponse time are pretty low for a TV, but nothing close to a good monitor, but I don't notice any negatives compared to my old monitor. The viewing angles are decent, but not fantastic. My GTX 780 doesn't have HDMI 2.0, so I bought this converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BQ8I54. If it introduces any additional lag, I didn't notice.

I don't play twitch FPS games, so take that into consideration. I do play a lot of Skyrim and its great, though I can't power it at 4k, so it's only 1080p for gaming until I upgrade. I use it primarily for web browsing and programming and it does a good job at those tasks.

If it hadn't worked out for me, I probably would've returned it for something else, but I like it a lot. In my opinion, for $269, it's a steal.

I think your best bet will be buying an adapter. You want an active display port adapter. It needs to be "active" meaning it's the adapter itself that handles the conversion.

Active displayport to VGA is cheapest at $15 and looks just as good as VGA straight off the card. If one of your monitors is already using an analog connection, then just pick up one of these.

The active displayport to DVI or HDMI is an all digital conversion so there's no quality loss. They cost a bit more at around 20 bucks.

Seems like an adapter issue, you might have a passive one instead of an active adapter.

You'll need something like this

Can't guarantee 100% that this will work but hey, it's not extremely expensive so if it doesn't work it's not that bad..
I'm hoping it will, keep me updated if you do decide to get one :)

Good chance its the adapter yea, you might have to do some more research and find an adapter that people have specifically used for the rift. VR is very sensitive to adapters and extenders so find a 4k 60hz capable one and you should be good. Heres one that has some good reviews from people using it with VR. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077JB28KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OQh6CbFB1T6SX

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102908

faster than the 550ti for $10 more after rebate

that hard drive is made for laptops, it'll work just fine but you'll need an adapter plate to get it to fit in the case

you're buying a previous generation CPU and motherboard, not a problem so i'm just letting you know. you can get an i5 3570k and a z77 motherboard for a little bit more if you're so inclined

the HAF 912 is a cheap case disguised with molded plastic, the NZXT source 210 elite is a better case in every way for around the same price

power supply is overkill and kinda expensive, the corsair CX430 is $22 after rebate and will power your PC just as well

any video card that has DVI out will be able to output to HDMI with an adapter that usually comes in the box. HDMI and DVI have the same pins, so adapter (if you don't get one) are like $1 online: link. won't output audio though, so you'll need a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable if you don't have one already

I bought this to use as a dock https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Delivery-Thunderbolt-compatible/dp/B06XNS7W63/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504580717&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=s8+hdmi+adapter&psc=1

But the switch doesnt seem to understand that it's supposed to output anything through the HDMI. To my knowledge, this is the exact same tech as the sfans dock and switchcon. With everything plugged in, the switch charges but it unfortunately doesnt try to display the image on the TV, and stays in handheld mode.

My current dock is busted and I know my switch is fine because it functions perfectly on other docks.

Can anyone help, please? I really can't afford to buy a new dock which is why I opted for this one.

I use a 15ft active USB cable, 3ft displayport to hdmi adapter, 15ft active hdmi cable, and a link box in between. With my Lenovo explorer. Works perfectly. Holds 90fps. And no static or anything. I use the bluetooth on the link box.

Plugable Active DisplayPort to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0C7QO8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T8FC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Cable Matters USB 3.0 Cable (USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSS9LEI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

HTC Vive Link Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXR6DKV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AC to DC 12V 1.5A 12V1.5A Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JL0YIY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Cable is fine it most likely doesn't support 4k@60hz over hdmi.

You'll need a active displayport cable to hdmi converter to do 4k@60hz.

Like this one https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54

Edit:I have a 4k TV and I've had multiple gpu's and that adapter. Not sure why I got downvoted. None of Intel's CPUs support HDMI 2.0. A regular convertor will not give you 60hz at 4k you need a active one, like I linked.

Does your monitor support full 4K 60hz 4:4:4? If yes, does your EVGA sport a mini DP or DP port? At least 1.2?

For my previous laptop, I had to use a 1.2 display port to HDMI 2.0 active dongle.

I recommend this Club3D one, as it has worked for me for both 4k 60hz RGB full and YCbCr444.
https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501608906&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=club3d+displayport+1.2+to+hdmi+2.0+uhd+%28cac-1170%29

wow i missed that yes your right that monitor only does higher than 60hz via dvi or displayport. his solution would be to get and active display port to hdmi adapter which would solve that.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520283801&sr=8-1&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi+adapter+hdmi+2.0

or

https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-UVOOI-Display-Adapter-Lenovo/dp/B071J3SLFV/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1520283870&sr=8-7&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi+cable+hdmi+2.0

Wow, I would have never figured this out on my own. Thank you.

Would you recommend something like this: https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-DVI-Adapter-1920x1200-Converter/dp/B004SUO1GM

Or this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Eyefinity-Technology/dp/B00EDT01TO

This one: Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter (Supports displays up to 4K / UHD / 3840x2160@60Hz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_A6SuzbDP7NTBB

Works perfect for me. Game 4K60 all day (well, for the few titles that'll allow me to push it that high 😁)

This is the adapter, it states:
>Supports resolutions up to 3840x2160 (4K) Ultra-HD @ 60Hz, 1080P@120Hz

Also reviews in the product says people got it to work 4k@60

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1511834789&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=plugable+displayport+to+hdmi&psc=1


I just tried the VR headset > DP adapter and lo and behold it worked. I've only tried 1 little game so far but that worked as well as before. The reason I didn't think it would work is because my headset outputs at 2880x1440 apparently at 90hz(I wouldn't know how to check besides what the specs say) which is nearly same bandwidth as 4k@60. So I'm still curious as to why PC DP>Adapter>4K TV doesn't work, but I'm glad to have a workaround. I think it should be okay to have the TV in the HDMI port on my gpu, when I get another monitor down the road(will be a strange setup) that will have DP input so that should work seamlessly.

The only thing I still have a problem with is my computer says its in multi-display mode even with the VR unplugged and the only monitor plugged in is the TV. Device Manager says there is a Generic Non-PnP Monitor on the integrated GPU and a Generic PnP Monitor on my gtx 1060. Any idea why this could be?


Thank you so much

There may be an active DVI-D to VGA cable but I haven't looked in awhile, but a normal Active adapter should work - https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Pro-DVI-D-Active-Converter/dp/B00RWFT8NG

You were using a DVI Passive to VGA adapter which is why it doesn't work. Need an Active DVI-D to vga.

I was researching this a while ago, but finally ended up going to HDMI for my monitor instead. I saw that adapter under different brands. I found a company that claims they are the original maker of the adapter and they say to not buy it from a counterfeit seller. Not sure if their claims are true, but their version does come with a USB micro power plug for better compatibility. Here is the link.

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco®-DVI-D-Active-Converter-compatibility/dp/B00RWFT8NG

/u/Taidaishar - if you're OK with two cameras, you might want to consider a [Blackmagic Web Presenter with a Teranex switch panel for $550] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X3W3HQS//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) instead of the Sling Studio.

You would also need a [$39 Blackmagic HDMI to SDI micro converter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077QQSP5N//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) because the Web Presenter has one HDMI and one SDI input.

[Here] (https://youtu.be/TFzFAZLSu_Y) is how a two-camera setup works with the Web Presenter and the Teranex.

That leaves you enough for a [$450 used Panasonic FZ1000] (https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-DMC-FZ300K-Megapixel-2-3-inch-Dustproof/dp/B011PKJI2Y/ref=as_li_ss_tl?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&s=warehouse-deals&ie=UTF8&qid=1524049831&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), which can give you results like [this] (https://youtu.be/tE3yFeQg6BI) in a broadcast/webcast setting.

When budget permits, you can get [relatively inexpensive J-Tech wireless HDMI transmitter/receivers] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VCK1FG//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) to get rid of the cables.

Hope this is helpful and Godspeed!

HDMI 2.0 supports 4k @ 60Hz 4:4:4 chroma. HDMI 1.4a (which is what most HDMI ports act like in macOS) supports 4k @ 30Hz 4:4:4 chroma. /u/cman8tor likely needs an active DP -> HDMI adapter (like the Club3D CAC-1070 mentioned by /u/z0rian). Although - some reports of it working via HDMI 2.0b have been noted - however, they seem rather unexplained/unpredictable.

Also worth noting that the Pixel Clock Patch (maintained by Floris497) - which lifted that "see everything as HDMI 1.4a" behavior - hasn't been super reliable since Sierra.

-

Hopefully that helps!

-

-CorpNewt

I think he’s right. I had the exact same issue you’re describing while using the HDMI port on my Gigabyte G1 390, and it was not resolved until I switched to using a DisplayPort active adapter after which things worked perfectly.

This is the one I got. There are cheaper ones out there, but most of them are passive and won’t support the necessary bandwidth.

> I'm all ears on how to plug a DVI cable into a HDMI port

Oddly enough, what the other guy didn't tell you, with his lifetime experience on working with computer hardware is that most of the DVI and HDMI protocols are shared. i.e. most of the time, the connector is irrelevant, just buy an adapter and turn one into another. Things like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Generic-GC2080-Adapter-Plated-Connector/dp/B000FUVNX8

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00NH11X64/

But I never remember which end is male or female, if I had to guess, I think end of the HDMI cable is male. That would make the second one the better choice. But I really can't remember about the DVI end.

The tedious differences between DVI and HDMI should not matter to you (or to your needs at least). HDMI also carry sound, DVI can also include analog RGB signal (etc)

Also the max resolution that can be carried aren't only dependent on the cable, the GPU do have limitations of their own. I can't find the specs of the Radeon HD 4600, I don't know if it can push 1440p.

Now for the driver issue, you're gonna have to buy a box of donut or a handful of cupcake and nicely ask the network peeps to come and install the right driver for the card, since cupcakes are so good, they would be so kind :)

> I was connecting to a USB to HDMI

This sounds like you are using a DisplaLink device which is a USB driven graphics adapter (there is a lightweight gpu in the device that does the processing). While they are decent devices, you will get better performance and more supported resolutions if you run the HDMI straight off of the internal GPU via USB-C to HDMI directly. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/CAC-1504-Chromebook-Thunderbolt-Supports-3840x2160/dp/B016QO8186

Or this: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-USB-C-HDMI-Chromebook-Thunderbolt/dp/B01FIVSC6Y

Not saying that was for sure your issue but if you are doing presentations regularly I would suggest getting something like the above.

To connect the MacBook Pro to a PG278Q, you'll need a USB C to displayport cable like this one.
The switching part is where things get tricky. You can get a 2:1 displayport switch like the Lindy brand one on Amazon, but it's only going to support 60hz max. That's fine for the Macbook, but I assume you're going to want a 144hz signal from the PC so that you can enjoy all that your G-Sync video card has to offer. And from what I can tell, there are no displayport switches that can handle 144hz or even 120hz. And even if there were, the cost would be high enough that buying a separate 1440p or 4k monitor just for the Macbook starts to make sense.

Yes, most adapters only support HDMI 1.4

There is an active adapter from Club3D which supports HDMI 2.0. I use it for my Fury X and can enjoy 4K60 on my TV. Costs around 35€.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017BQ8I54/

Have you tried USB-C to DisplayPort directly to verify if it's the adaptor or the cable that's the issue?

Most DisplayPort hardware, I guess dongles in particular, will be passive. For DisplayPort to DVI or HDMI you need to get an active convertor, something like this that will convert the DP signal to HDMI/DVI.

There's plenty of information on the topic here:
https://www.startech.com/uk/faq/displayport_converter_dp_multi_mode

Edit: This one seems to support 2560x1440 whilst the other may only reach 1920x1080: https://www.amazon.com/Sienoc-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter-4096x2160-Black/dp/B00XXNER3M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484871155&sr=8-4&keywords=displayport+to+dvi+active

Yeah the repeater is so cheap it is worth it to add it just to have it. Another possible solution is this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035B4LJM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Because we are finding out the HDMI signal is weaker than the DVI and Display ports on a lot of graphics cards.

But like I said the repeater has made my extremely long cables work well I have consistently played for 2 hours now with no issues of any kind. Before the repeater the cable I linked to just didn't work at all... I had a black screen and my other cable I bought would work for a while then would drop the signal momentarily and come back on.

Personally I ordered all three of the options I presented and plan to test them all. Currently I am using what I presented to you first and want to use it for at least a couple days or until I have an issue if I find an issue I will move on to the next option and rinse and repeat. But as of now I am very confident the repeater is the way to go.

I thought maybe something like that might be going on. I've read the same thing, and even in laptop cases where there's some level of hardware switching going on, that kind of setup (if it works at all) will add extra latency regardless of other performance penalties.

Thankfully there's a relatively cheap and easy solution. I use this to connect to my monitor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM and leave the headset in the graphics card HDMI slot. Other brands will likely work, these are just the specific ones I use.

​

> now I'm curious to find out whether it's worth it to pay $40 for an adapter.

$20.


this is the one microsoft recommends.
https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8


Also, I think you can get steam to tell you how many frames you're getting pretty easily. getting WMR to tell you is a bit more convoluted.

First off, you are awesome and helped solved my final issue. Second off, both of the HDMI extensions I linked worked after this display port to HDMI adapter. For my setup I have 3 display ports, 1 HDMI, and 1 DVI on my graphics card. I have a 3 monitor setup that uses 3 of the ports and was looking for an HDMI switch to go from my room setup to the living room, but after seeing that this adapter worked, I'm just ordering a DVI to HDMI for my third monitor. Basically me testing the adapter helped solve my issue and I really appreciate you asking :)

I couldn't find the settings for refresh rate(on the TV) but I do have a 4K TV along with the AVR. Is there a recommended adapter/brand?
edit: clarity
dbl edit: Looks like this should do the trick?

The solutions to do this is to daisy chain monitors that will support that, use something like Matrox, or drive one monitor from Thunderbolt and the other with a USB adaptor. Both the Matrox and USB are essentially external video cards that allow you to drive another monitor from the MacBook Air.

I haven't found a solution that is simple or cheap yet. The adapters that have multiple video ports only support one monitor from the ones I have tried.

Matrox: http://www.matrox.com/graphics/en/products/gxm/dh2go/digital_me/

Example of USB: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Adapter-2560x1440-1920x1200/dp/B00BPEV1XK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486129982&sr=8-3&keywords=MacBook+USB+to+video

Note that it will have to be an active HDMI 2.0 adapter. Passive adapters will not work. I'm using a combination of a cheap USB-C to Displayport dongle and the Plugable Displayport to HDMI 2.0 active adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8) to drive a 43" 4K Samsung at 4K60Hz from my XPS 9350, and it works beautifully. There are a couple of combined adapters now available as well, which adapt directly from USB-C to HDMI 2.0 and should do the trick, though I haven't used any of them myself. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Incompatible/dp/B01K51GM46

Very cheap option: If you already have a BMDVA then you could use a consumer HDMI home transmitter depending on your room distance.

​

So your signal flow would go: Source->Cheap (maybe monoprice) SDI to HDMI converter -> HDMI Wireless transmitter -> HDMI Wireless Receiver -> HDMI cable from receiver into BMDVA.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Wireless-Supporting-Transmission/dp/B071VCK1FG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hdmi+wireless+transmitter+and+receiver&qid=1549747552&s=gateway&sr=8-3

To power the receiver in a wireless way you'll need power on the go. This provides 5v with the standard 5.5mm plug. Never put more than the rated amount of voltage into a device, or else white smoke magic will happen.https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Battery-Holder-Connector-Arduino/dp/B00O5AZI12/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=5v+5.5+battery&qid=1549747721&s=gateway&sr=8-11

Laggy option on the cheap: If you have a macbook get a BMD SDI Recorder : https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/ultrastudio, shove it into the macbook and OBS, and private stream over platform of your choice (Youtube/Twitch etc) and monitor with the Ipad wirelessy (as long as you have a house wifi network, or your own of course).Windows option: Elgato H60 is a piece of trash but does work.. most of the time. This option total would be around or less than $200. Hope that helps!

Ok, you could purchase a USB 3.0 to HDMI converter, and connect one monitor to the native HDMI port on the Z710. Then plug a USB end into the laptop and an HDMI cord to the other monitor and the HDMI end on the adapter. You'll have to make sure that you configure everything in the display properties to make them work independently, but this should be a good solution.

I have the exact same laptop and had the same issues as you mentioned. I almost gave up, but getting a good 4k mini DisplayPort to HDMI adapter worked. Thanks!

The one I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDJFI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It would help to know what exactly your current setup is.

Given you don't have an HDMI out currently, I'm assuming you don't have a dGPU at all? actually read your post. What chipset do you have, and what's your [current] budget?

You can, of course, order a USB 3.0 to HDMI solution, but they aren't really reasonably priced if you plan on upgrading other parts in the future anyways.

It may make sense to just outright replace your MoBo with one that has an HDMI out if you don't ever want to have a DGPU - especially if you don't plan on updating chipsets since older chipset MoBos will be hard to find as time goes on.

If you DO plan on getting a dgpu at some point, a low profile 1050Ti may be a good solution without limiting your case options later on. Realistically, though, if this is just for displaying media the 1050ti is likely way more than you need - and you could get a cheaper 1030, I just dont' recommend the 1030 since it's a terrible performance/dollar. At $150 for the 1050ti though, outright replacing the MoBo may be your most reasonable solution.


IDK if there is a low profile, single slot 1050TI out there, that would be ideal for future case options if there is.

Update: Bought this cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's USB-C to DP, and it works flawlessly, so far. As it's being used in a Thunderbolt 3 port, it supports higher resolutions at higher refresh rates, so my 2560x1440 @60Hz is fine.

It shouldn't have been necessary, and it's more expensive than any old HDMI cable, but I'm so relieved that it's sorted.

I'll re-check the HDMI to HDMI situation every now and then, after a big kernel or BIOS update, especially as I might want to free up the TB3 port in the future.

Okay so it does look like active adapters are advertising 4K 60Hz support so this might work

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8

You'll need an active DisplayPort 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapter. I used the Plugable adapter between my 290x and original Odyssey just because it was the one recommended on the windows support page. It worked well.

I had a Club3D adapter that I used to connect to my tv which didn't work with the Odyssey. It had a strange sizing issue between the HDMI port on the adapter and the Odyssey. I simply couldn't plug them into each other, though other HDMI cables and ports worked with each.

While USB to HDMI adapters do exist, your machine has USB 2.0 (not USB 3.0) so it is to be determined if it will work well with USB 2.0.

If USB 2.0 is too laggy or doesn't work, t think your best bet will be to use the Thunderbolt or Expresscard slot to add a USB 3.0 port, then connect the HDMI adapter to it.

Here is one HDMI/USB 3.0 adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters®-SuperSpeed-2048x1152-1920x1200/dp/B00BPEV1XK

You can't use more than 3 non DP displays unless you use active DP adapters. Your TV is probably connected using a passive DP to HDMI adapter. You need an active one like this https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482528470&sr=8-1&keywords=active+displayport+to+hdmi

Sure, this is the card i'm looking at, seams to have DP1.2 HDMI 1.4 and DVI CEX with this Adapter

The gt1030 is a good shout though not too far over my budget, i wonder which is the most powerful.

I personally don't think it would be a good thing to use two different graphic cards, consider one of them is just for your other monitor.

What I say you should do, and it's what im currently doing, is, to connect your main monitor (Acer), AND the 4:3 one to your GTX 970 card, it should have 2 DVI-D and 1 HDMI and 1 Display port input at the back. Get a VGA <-> DVI-D adapter, which is pretty cheap. This one for example Link. Or you could just go to a general electronics shop and get one for like 5$.

Properly transmitting the analog signal (what you get over coax) with reasonable quality isn't really possible on the free frequencies. Transmitting the full digital signal that HDMI carries over wifi isn't really possible either (you need 48Gbps or so).

So your options are two, one, for cable, you can capture the raw digital stream transmitted and send that over wifi. the HD Home Run will do that, it's only really good for cable/TV, but it works well, and gets you full quality with minimal cost, but the user interface is going to be a bit different (you need to access it via streaming on the TV, maybe with a firestick or similar). The HDHomeRun won't tune to analog streams if this is cable and it happens to have some, it also adds significant latency and won't do for games.

The second option is get an HDMI wireless converter, they are expensive, add significant lag (and are no good for gaming), and reduces the quality as it must recompress all video.

I use this one for my HP X2 1013 G3 - runs 4K @ 60 Hz via both Thunderbolt 3 and USB-C ports. Surface Book 2 is listed as supported on product page.


USB-C to HDMI Adapter Supporting 4K 60Hz (Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible)

Cable Matters USB C to HDMI Adapter Supporting 4K 60Hz & 60W Charging in Black - USB-C & Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible for Samsung Galaxy S9/S9+, Galaxy S8/S8+, Galaxy Note 8, MacBook Pro and More

I think this might be the way to go for the laptop / monitor.

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494948300&sr=1-3&keywords=dvi+to+hdmi+2.0

Honestly thinking of just dumping the gaming rig and using the laptop only. Its got an i7 and can do eGPU. ThinkPads are pretty cool. Thats another project though. I might try this DP to HDMI I liked for this project.

Display Port accepts digital signal input with backward compatibility to HDMI which is also a type of digital interface. The specs on your GPU say that it supports up to 4096 x 2160 digital resolution so you won't have any troubles GPU wise. You might need a different converter though. I linked that one just for illustration purposes.

There are several models out there so you certainly should be able to find one that fits your need in a nearby shop or online.

Edit: Added link.

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Here are your smile-ified links:

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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Well, a little late to the discussion. Just want to point out that I have had good luck with the Plugable adapter for 4k 60hz HDMI 2.0 output to a 4k TV if somebody needs that functionality. There aren't too many options for this capability.....

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0BWR2K/

That adapter won't work. The cheap ones only support lower resolutions under 1080p at 60 Hz. You need an active 4K capable adapter that can drive 90Hz like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8

you need an active Display port adapter if you dont already have one. the adapter will say 'Active' or 'AMD Eyefinity' compatible on it.

this is the only one i can find on the best buy site:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-displayport-to-dvi-d-adapter/4582884.p?id=1218492340781&skuId=4582884&st=display%20port%20to%20DVI&cp=1&lp=7

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/visiontek-mini-displayport-to-dvi-d-adapter-black/4356649.p?id=1218475518927&skuId=4356649&st=display%20port%20to%20DVI&cp=1&lp=9

i cannot find an HDMI one on the BB site.

if you must have HDMI on the middle monitor, you would probably have to order it:

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT0072/

It does, but I did some research on this recently and it's important to get the right cable.

If your monitor has a DP++ input, you can use a normal "passive" adaptor/cable. This means the monitor can handle the conversion from HDMI to DisplayPort.

If it doesn't, you need an "active" adaptor which has a chip inside it that handles the conversion. Something like this

I never ended up needing to buy an adaptor myself, but yeah, that's what I found when I looked into it.

More info here: https://www.startech.com/au/faq/displayport_converter_dp_multi_mode

That converter is not capable of 4k60fps. It's passive and uses DP++ to convert, which only supports 1920x1200. You need an active packet conversion cable to do this

Edit: This is the adapter I use for my TV

Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter (Supports displays up to 4K / UHD / 3840x2160@60Hz) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D9A9Bb4JTCXSK

What CPU? Most of Intel's iGPUs are limited to 4k @ 30Hz over HDMI (lame, I know). You'll more than likely have to get a display port -> HDMI adapter. Make sure it's one that supports 4k @ 60Hz; there's only a couple out there right now.

Here's a Display Port -> HDMI adapter on Amazon that has decent reviews and supports 4k @ 60Hz

EDIT: Example: I7-7700T only supports 4k @ 60Hz over Display Port; it's limited to 24Hz through HDMI

Max Resolution (HDMI 1.4)‡
4096x2304@24Hz

Max Resolution (DP)‡
4096x2304@60Hz

Max Resolution (eDP - Integrated Flat Panel)‡
4096x2304@60Hz

>My main card is a 1080 Ti, could I use the DVI from that card plus the 3rd displayport?

That gives you an even better option, use the hdmi 2.0B ports, each is capable of HDR 4k output, look for an adapter for them, eg, something like this.

Wireless HDMI

Do not have, zero idea of how well it works. But it is a place to start. Good luck.

Be aware that there is such a thing as an "active adapter" and a "passive adapter". The cheaper ones are likely passive ones - they will be unlabelled and will not work.

You need an active adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDT0072/

Hi there again (4 months later),

The problem was not the usb type-c neither GNU/Linux. The problem was the Dell DA200 adapter, so after researching I found a lad who bought a cabblematters adapter and it worked perfectly. If anyone is interested here it is the solution: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B01C316EIK

Yes there are. They're called DVI-D to VGA Active Adapters.

They look like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Converter-Black/dp/B01FL7H7HA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480524729&sr=8-3&keywords=dvi-d+to+vga+active

You need an active adapter. Your best bet is a displayport to DVI (Active) adapter.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/

These guys make a working HDMI 2.0 to DP converter, however it only supports 1080p, 2160p/4K output, their device is firmware upgrade-able so you could try asking them if they would support 1440p output.

https://www.siig.com/hdmi-2-0-to-displayport-1-2-converter-4kx2k-60hz.html

This converter can turn HDMI into DP but it's meant for PC's and it's hard to know if it will work with Xbox 2018 1440p support.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00JQORLCG/

Club3D make this PC GPU converter, it turn HDMI 1.4 into DP, same as above

https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-CAC-2330-DisplayPort-Adapter-Female/dp/B076KXYKN2/

There is this cheap Belkin HDMI 2.0 to DVI cable that might be worth a try.

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-HDMI-DVI-D-Cable-Supports/dp/B004W44YIO/

​

You're going to need something like this then.

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Pro-DVI-D-Active-Converter/dp/B00RWFT8NG?th=1

The 1080 dropped support for VGA so you'll need an active adapter to convert the signal from digital to analog.

You might want to try an adapter that does displayport to HDMI 2.0. I have a GTX 1070 and have issues with HDMI 2.0 4k 60hz. If I use the adapter from Displayport ti HDMI2.0 to the TV, it works fine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0C7QO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0BWR2K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've bought both and tested with a Dell laptop with mini displayport out and it worked with 4k @ 60hz. I tested the full displayport adapter with a GTX 1080 with Win10 and GTX 1070 with OSX Sierra. Both work with 4K @60hz.

There is another brand as well at amazon, I would steer clear from it, it nearly burned out one of my video cards when I used it and burned out my HDMI cable and the adapter.

There are passive dvi to vga adapters, however your graphics card might not support them. Check to see if your graphics card supports DVI-I or DVI-A. If it does support it then there will be no loss vs a VGA cable.

Here is one such adapter.



If your GPU only supports DVI-D (Digital) then you'll need a more expensive active adapter. There depending on the adapter, there will be some difference.

Here's a cheap version (and clicking on the usb power cable will point you to a more "compatible" and expensive one).

This doesn’t have 3 USB ports, but here is what I use for my XPS 15 and it works great

Cable Matters USB-C Multiport Adapter with 4K HDMI or VGA Video, USB 3.0 and Gigabit Ethernet (Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible) in Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C316EIK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_V7HhAbM4WT3S8

Yup I do this all the time when I travel. Sentio works pretty well and Project Linda was using it in their demos.
I use this dock. Just know there's no input so you'll have to connect to it with Bluetooth devices. There are some docks that have usb input. I just like to make sure it has power delivery too. I also mount the phone on a fan grip so it doesn't overheat.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNS7W63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KsBVCbPKA8D8Z

If you get a display port one, you can shoot 120 for into a high fps monitor too.

Probably not. but look closely at the adapter you bought. It only supports 1920x1080.

So your not going to get your full QHD support.

I ordered a cable for my laptop that has HDMI and it allowed me to use my laptop on my DP monitor at 120hz. I even set a custom resolution matching the Rift S and 80hz and it ran as well (not too sure if it’s exactly going to be like the Rift S) but since it was able to do that I have high hopes that it will be compatible.

This is the cable I used: Cable Matters HDMI to DisplayPort... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQORLCG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Your main issue is MST setting. Apple doesn't support it because their hardware doesn't really need it. Technically, they do support it and here's the page where you can get more info. However, they don't implement the full standard (i.e. Daisy Chaining monitors).

In the link above, you'll notice that your MacBook can, and should, run 2 4K displays without issue but I don't believe you'll be able to do this from your dock.

Primary MST (Multi Stream Transport) takes the entire bandwidth of a DisplayPort 1.2, which runs at 4K/5K 60Hz. From this article, I'm gathering that you can't really drive so many monitors from a single USB type-C cable on MacOS. It's possible on Windows because of full MST implementation, hence why Dell advertises that option.

My suggestion is to use the monitors as USB hubs themselves. The way I have it hooked up, and working, is:

• Monitor 1 --> Keyboard, and other USB plugged into monitor. Monitor USB plugged into Apple AV USB-C Splitter, HDMI 2.0 Cable from same splitter going into Monitor and power passthrough charging going into splitter.
  
• Monitor 2 --> plugged in via USB-C to DisplayPort, directly to MacBook.
  
  As always, my disclaimer is that YMMV and I'm not a computer engineer nor am I an expert of any kind. I've read forums, tried plugs, and got it to work. Also, there are some omissions about HDMI with regards to apple standards and stuff that some folks can nitpick on, however, this post is long enough and you can get your monitors to work without the additional information.
  
  P.S. One thing I did was when I got each monitor to work, individually, is to turned off MST support via the following steps: Monitor OST --> Menu --> Display --> MST --> Off. This allows for each monitor to work in 4K 60Hz, for me. Don't know if it helped or not, just something I did. This came from a Reviewer on Amazon named Bob.
  
  Edit: Formating.

I used this cable: Plugable USBC to DisplayPort Adapter Cable

It's actually super nice just being able to use this single cable rather than having to keep track of a small adapter and additional cable.

You could try something like this. I think an RMA through sapphire is your best bet since an adapter isn't guaranteed to work once or any time after that.

FYI.. the adaptor I used. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-Active-DisplayPort-Adapter-DisplayPort-Enabled/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp

And I'll happily delete these posts if you think it's wise.

If you aren't used to it you may not notice it, but after you use 60hz and switch back to 30hz it is very noticeable.

I picked up one of these to get 4k/60hz support and found it to be totally worth it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FIVSC6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry if I am proving what seems like conflicting information. I checked 'System Information' and it tells me that I have a 'Surface Book 2' in the System Summary area.

I went to this: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4052030/surface-usb-c and it told me that I have a USB-C port.

So, I went to Amazon and bought this guy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K51GM46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Obviously, my hardware isn't a Dell, but I took a chance that I could get a driver to make this work.

Does this clarify? I do appreciate any light you can shine on this.

Thanks.

No idea if this supports 144 Hz, but it does do 1440p:

Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Adapter (Active DP to DVI Adapter) with Eyefinity Technology Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDT01TO

Awesome, that is what I will have to do. I am going to try this adapter, it looks like the ticket. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S0BWR2K/

> active Displayport to DVI

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511323915&sr=1-3&keywords=active+dvi+to+displayport

Looking for that... how come the top resolution they support is 1920x1200?

Is it thunder bolt 3.0? I have a Razer blade 2016 and use a thunderbolt (usb-c to display port) to play on my Asus 144hz and it runs at 144hz. Make sure you get one that supports 4K @ 60hz. I got this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EXKDRAC/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a limitation in the digital video output of the card. HDMI uses the same digital signaling as DVI so that HDMI port is essentially an electronic duplicate of one of the DVI ports (with the audio added in). In order to run 3 displays off one card one of the displays has to be native display port OR has to be using an Active Adapter. Active adapters are only a little bit more expensive than the passive ones, but this will let all three of your displays function. Now if you do have a native Displayport display, that'll be slightly cheaper since all you'll need is the cable.

Edit: I'd also like to mention that in order to run a 4th display on this card you'll need to connect it to display port as well.

No HDMI port... FYI.

~~Grab one of these for $2 + Free Shipping. Has good reviews as far as I can tell.
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-GC2080-Adapter-Plated-Connector/dp/B000FUVNX8~~

Edit: see below for proper connector

No, but this will, http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1425530713&sr=1-1&keywords=displayport+to+dvi+active+adapter

The difference is that this one is an active adapter, for some reason AMD requires an Active adapter for three screens.

the solution is displayport,Mobo in build above has it.

If your TV does not have a displayport you can use an active dp to hdmi 2.0a adapter like this one https://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-HDMI-2-0a-Active-Adapter/dp/B01B6ZOMIS or this one https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=pd_sim_147_1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B017BQ8I54&pd_rd_r=SZSDX49Q4SBKBF0QJYZ5&pd_rd_w=uMnWY&pd_rd_wg=9rDBd&psc=1&refRID=SZSDX49Q4SBKBF0QJYZ5 and then an hdmi 2.0 cable

I'm a little skeptical of that one because it looks like a passive converter even though it's listed as active.

Normally it will look something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

The size is a bit larger because it needs to use an additional chip to convert the signal, otherwise you'll wind up with the same issue of only being able to duplicate one of your screens.

I bought this one and it works flawlessly. Not the cheapest option but comes with VGA, HDMI, Gigabit Ethernet, and a USB 3.1 Type A. Well worth the extra cost. Also remember you get what you pay for. This one is well constructed and reliable:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01C316EIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edit: Also forgot to mention. I've got an XPS 15

Thanks. So will this one work?

Do you recommend anything? Is that the price point I am looking at? $50?

I have this USB-C to HDMI adapter and it works well.

Cable Matters USB-C to HDMI Adapter

Edit: I also have this USB-C to Displayport cable, and it works great too.

Pluggable USB-C to Displayport Cable

great, I will be ordering this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413763655&sr=8-2&keywords=active+displayport

I really can't thank you enough for all your help.

Apple's "Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2" adapter states on Apple's web site that it will not work for DisplayPort, it can only be used for Thunderbolt accessories.

"DisplayPort: This display requires a third-party USB-C to DisplayPort adapter. The Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 Adapter doesn't support this display." from https://support.apple.com/en-nz/HT207443

Which was the other adapter you used? Make sure it says USB-C to DisplayPort, even better if it says for MacBook or MacBook Pro, this one for example https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-1-8m-Chromebook-Thunderbolt/dp/B01EXKDRAC

USB-C supports DisplayPort natively even without thunderbolt

Right now I have a thunderbolt -> hdmi running a second monitor that is NOT a mirror but rather an extension of my MBP. I've done some more research and it seems like this product:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Adapter-2560x1440-1920x1200/dp/B00BPEV1XK?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

could be the one I need. Any thoughts before I buy? At the end of the day I want 3 screens that do not duplicate each other, one included is the MBP screen.

Edit: Yeah, I've done the research that suggests without a product like this one ^ above, it won't work, period.

When you say you bought an adapter do you mean an HDMI to Display Port adapter?

It has to be an active adapter. This is the one I purchased and it works flawlessly.

Plugable Active Mini DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter (Supports displays up to 4k / UHD / 3840x2160@60Hz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0BWR2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kOVPCbAFZS6YK

https://www.amazon.de/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Thunderbolt-Port-Kompatibel/dp/B01C316EIK

this is the first result on Amazon (Germany)... just search for usb type c to ethernet or something like that on the Amazon page of your country, I am sure you will find something

Yes, you can on the 2016 MacBook. You can absolutely run 4K with a monitor that has built in USB-C.

There is even 4K 60Hz HDMI output with an active adapter and with power delivery passthrough.

Cable Matters makes one for about $25 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNS7W63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1ObFzb3PSYEB0

Hi Takyon_dg, thanks for the info!

Here's a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter that we've tested with Windows Mixed Reality:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072/

(Unfortunately, I'm not sure if any retailers in Canada sell this adapter. I tried to look for it on the NCIX, MemoryExpress, Amazon.ca and Newegg.ca web pages but didn't see it there)

Thanks!

> LG 25UM55 21:9 monitor

Thanks for the in depth answer!

Unfortunately the monitor i have (http://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-29UM57-P-ultrawide-led-monitor) only has 2 HDMI ports so using a DisplayPort cable won't work. This adapter (http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00K0UDJFI/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t) claims to support 4k displays so I will find out if this works in 2 days.

The laptop itself is a 13-inch, Mid 2012. Hopefully that isn't the issue.

I accidentally bought a non active DP to HDMI and had the same issue you're having. Sent it back and got this one. Only asking because I made this mistake. Are you 100% sure it's an active one?

The only way I can think of to check 90Hz is to play a low quality video on DeoVR Video Player and have it display FPS. It should cap out at 90FPS if you're in 90Hz mode.

MacOS has issues with outputting 60hz 4K over HDMI 2.0

The best way do this would be;

Use one of these adapters

https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491940140&sr=1-1&keywords=Club3D

Then use SwitchResX to manually set the refresh rate to 60hz

Works fine.

I could use this work around too. I'll let you know if I find anything.

Edit* maybe something like this

Club3D Displayport 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 UHD (CAC-1070) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BQ8I54/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BFqkyb7BEBN2D

Or this would be even better because an adapter could cause lag.

Cable Matters DisplayPort 1.2 to HDTV Cable Supporting 4K 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01672IR6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5Iqkyb1TG6306

There is hope! I actually have dual 27" dell ultrasharp 1440p displays with only dvi inputs. Bought display port to dvi adaptors. See link below.

Managed to get 1440p 60hz working without any tweaks in Windows 10. Just plugged the adaptors to my 970 and used a proper dvi dual link cable.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Eyefinity-Technology/dp/B00EDT01TO

I also have two of the same adaptor from Cable Matters as a miniDP version in use with my surface dock. Worked straight away.

Have not tried a direct display port to dvi-d cable though. Most reviews only say that 1080p is supported as they are not active. Bit the bullet on those adaptors as I found reviews said they should work 1440p and was not dissapointed.

From what I've gathered I think I may need this adapter here http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT0072?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ but I am not sure so I'm hoping someone who knows for sure can help. :P

Something like this one maybe.

Or this one although it takes a USB port.

Not sure if they work, but I don't see why it wouldn't.

Either way I'm glad Asus provided 2 HDMI ports as current gen VR headsets use HDMI for video input — even if they did include the USB Type C connector for future VR headsets.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C316EIK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this for Ethernet, VGA, and an extra USB port. Does the trick and is pretty good price for what it is.

Oh interesting, thanks for the info! Assume the one below would work?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0BWR2K

Yeah, it should work fine. You might see some upscaling artifacts, though, as the PS4 outputs at 1080p, and not 1440p. They're usually not that bad. You will need an adapter.

EDIT: Like one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00JQORLCG/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538154781&sr=8-11-spons&keywords=hdmi+to+displayport+cables&psc=1

Scratch that, that one won't work. This might: https://www.cablestogo.com/product/54179/hdmi-to-displayport-adapter-converter

Not the cable. The cable is for connecting a displayport device to an HDMI display.

You might as well buy a cheap TV.

The reviews seem to be rather full of complaints about this particular adapter, issues similar to yours, I cannot say if it's your issue, but if you can return/refund it, do so.

I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ and it works great.

You absolutely can do this, personally I use this one because I remember it being recommended a lot on this sub. It supports ultra mode(90hz) because it converts the signal to HDMI 2.0 which supports 4k at 60hz instead of just 30hz.

I have the Alienware 15R2 (6th gen processor as well and a GTX 970m). I have the same monitor.

I'm currently using Archlinux (up to date) and it works just fine using bumblebee. (works, in fact, much better than connecting to the hdmi port). I'm using this cable. EDIT: minor formatting.

The 1060 does not support analog graphics at all, so the cheap, passive, DVI to VGA adapters won't work.

You need an active adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FL7H7HA/ or this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00879DM56/

There are a few straight lines of stuck pixels down the screen and it judders like it's not running 90hz. The adapter works fine with my TV (except for 5.1 audio, it only does stereo for some reason). This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT0072/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 which seems like it should work based on the specs

I got one of the recommended ones from amazon. The plugable 4K 60hz mini dp to hdmi adapter. It was pretty cheap.

Edit: this one

Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter (Supports displays up to 4K / UHD / 3840x2160@30Hz) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_KiopxbC66XZ5H

So this would be what im looking for? I've never even heard of Displayport before today so sorry if this is obvious, haha

That DP to HDMI adapter seems suspect. Seems like 29um58 doesn't have DP input, so your best bet is probably to look around for a better adapter/cable. The older ones mostly do only up to 1200p, you need a newer one like this.

That's actually the wrong version of Thunderbolt. That is a thunderbolt 2 cable. The thunderbolt 3 cable to display port is different.

This is the one I bought and have had great success with:

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Chromebook-Thunderbolt-3840x2160/dp/B01EXKDRAC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485712999&sr=8-2&keywords=pluggable+display+port