Reddit mentions: The best electric outlets & accessories

We found 1,373 Reddit comments discussing the best electric outlets & accessories. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 439 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

🎓 Reddit experts on electric outlets & accessories

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where electric outlets & accessories are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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u/richaardvark · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Hi there! I have used these types of switches in my home for about a year now and have only had a good experience! However, I have also always been somewhat perplexed about the sheer number of these various branded and non-branded switches available on various sites, that all basically seem to be made of the the same components. This isn't something you really see very often here in the US, mainly due to patent laws. I'm thinking that might really be the reason these switches, and so many other electronic devices from China, exist in the overlapping way they do - I'm thinking it's very likely able to happen due to poorly enforced or non-existent patent laws. That's my main guess anyway... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


As for my experience with the setup and performance of these switches, I initially came across them out of the necessity of finding a wall switch that did not require a common neutral wire. My home was built in 1950 and half of the wiring in my home does not have a ground wire and most of the circuits are not wired with a common neutral line, which has been the norm/requirement here for most everyone likely since sometime in the 1980s. Unfortunately, most WiFi connected "smart" switches/devices all require a common neutral wire. These have been a lifesaver for me! I found my switches on Amazon and have only purchased "Funry" and "Livolo" branded switches, the versions that work via RF signal. Originally, it seemed that was all they made (the RF kind), but as this IoT/home automation thing has really become such a big market noticed they started producing WiFi and Bluetooth switches, using the same housings and touch panels/exterior components.
Which leads me to my next thought - and I have nothing to base this premonition on, but I have a feeling / feel it can only be prudent to not assume that all of these switches, while appearing nearly identical on the outside, are of the same quality and same technologies on the inside. I have nothing to base this on, and most of these devices aren't certified by the various engineering certification groups (like UL here in the US) anyway and I'm sure some people would say to stay clear of them altogether, but inevitably having spent a lot of my budget on cheaper consumer electronic products made in China/other neighboring regions that are sold online, I've seen this to be the case. However, all I can speak to is the quality of the products from the two manufacturers I mentioned above and my experience has been positive. I mean, I felt they were at least well-made enough that I wasn't completely terrified to install them in my home. I've had no trouble with the switch mechanism itself, and the tempered glass panels do feel and look solid/of quality.


As for trying my best to help provide insight on your three bulleted needs laid out above - I do think it's possible for you to achieve each of those wants; however, I'd say my answer probably echos what I rambled on about above (lol), that the various functions and features can really be very different from one manufacturer to another on these switches, even though they may look the same, at least if you mean right out of the box. With a little bit of configuration (and sometimes a lot), you can connect basically anything to anything these days, one way or another. One problem with not going with a "name-brand" here is that you're also less-likely to get "name-brand" software/apps for the devices. But that may not matter. As I wrote above, the units I've purchased have all been RF-controlled models, so I had to buy a small hub/controller to work with RF. Prior to this Google Home/Alexa explosion, I'd already purchased tons of these wireless plugs/switches and had them connected to devices/lights all over my home, so buying a cheap RF hub and these affordable glass wall switches allowed me to turn what I already had into Google/Alexa-connected devices affordably, instead of having to start from scratch (just throwing that out there if you have anything similar in your setup). I imagine you're wanting just the straight WiFi switches? I can't give any feedback on the particular WiFi version of these switches, but I guess I can say if you find any on eBay from the two brands I mentioned, I'd feel OK about it for my home.

  • the ability to turn them off and on through an app independently, but also as groups

    They likely come from the manufacturer with some junky/not so great, proprietary software/"app" that you'll have to download and use just to get the devices setup anyway, but if you can get them successfully connected to Google Home (or Alexa), then yes, you can turn them on and off independently and can also assign them to groups, for group control. There are dozens and dozens of apps/interfaces out there now to control IoT devices, so I'd have to say yes this is possible. Out of the box, using the manufacturer's app? I don't know... but yes, totally possible.

  • Control them with Google Assistant independently and as groups

    My RF versions, yes. I imagine the WiFi version of these likely can be Google Assistant connected, one way or another, if they're not right out of the box. But I can't totally confirm this one.

  • Have dimming control

    Now this question... based on my working knowledge of these and other similar low-end devices and how they operate and are built, it's quite possible you would not have dimming control with any variety of these switches. I think you'd really need to be certain to buy a model that clearly states it has dimming functionality. I don't believe the majority of these are designed for that - only for on and off. In fact, I have no dimming control on any WiFi or RF-controlled light switch in my home - only on WiFi bulbs I've purchased with dimming capabilities. It seems to me that dimming "smart" switches are only available from some of the more [recognized] name-brand manufacturers and their more expensive, proprietary lighting systems, pretty much all requiring some sort of proprietary hub to control them.
u/Algebruh_m9 · 1 pointr/smarthome

It actually depends on what brand and model you get. As he mentioned, the essentials are lights, speakers and blind controls. Although my own version would be: Automated house lights, appliances you use (Coffeemaker, humidifier, smart oil diffuser, heater, fan, AC) which is a huge plus and maybe whole house speakers but if you don't have many speakers like Sonos or don't care for speakers you can also go for security for your house. I'm not sure you can get very good lights or so for that price range and have a hub or smart switch to go along with it so I'll recommend you things I own and find that are within your price range.

Smart plugs $30 for 4 plugs on Amazon they are very small and impressive and work with Google and Alexa along with IFTTT. Want cheaper? Try the same ones but it's one for $8 Here.

Or two sets of smart lights Here for $24. It also works with Google and Alex along with IFTTT. Most smart plugs will be used here. You can make many of your appliances "smart" with a simple plug. I, in fact, was watching this video right now about smart home gadgets by Rick Buck on YouTube. Very very informational about smart home appliances and definitely tells you a lot about smart plugs and how to use them

u/SpitFiya7171 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Bonus pics, closer up. Can't wait to get this cleaned up and pretty!

TL;DR- This is not a fun process. It's very confusing and frustrating. Take breaks and relax. Sometimes you may get hung up on something simple that you'll figure out after walking away for a minute. Also, instructions on this are changing constantly so there is no real one guide that will explain it perfectly and specifically for your printer. You'll have to do some looking around, especially if you're not very experienced with this kind of thing.

Though... through enough blood, sweat, and tears (and a little bit of exaggeration), Octoprint with Klipper and BLtouch is finally installed on my CR-10S... with the capability to control it anywhere in the world. I gotta say, as frustrating as this whole experience was to setup. It's well worth it.

One thing worth noting for people who have never done anything like this and this is your first time, in my experience, there is no one YouTube video that will explain to you exactly how to do this. Firmware/Software is constantly being updated and there are slight changes here and there. Or, as descriptive as these may be, they may actually miss out on something unique to your printer. However, they do get the job done, for the most part.

My process for this started with following Chris's Basement- Octoprint in 5 min. But like I said... I had to learn the hard way that some things won't work. Discovered that Win32Disk Imager didn't actually work. It would bring the Raspberry Pi to an error screen. Formatted my SD card, and restarted the process except this time with Etcher. Worked great.

Next, I ultimately followed Kevin O'Connor's Klipper installation guide with Octoprint. This is a very good guide that is constantly updated, so it should be good to follow. However, there are a few steps that may seem a bit confusing, which is why I referred to another one of Chris's video, a guide on how to install Klipper with Octoprint installed. Chris did a wonderful job following Kevin's instructions and walking you through.. however, some steps like setting up the configuration file for your specific printer (which is very vague in Kevin's guide) is also a bit rushed in Chris's explanation. Chris does mention the command to display the list of pre-built printer profiles, "LS". Just doesn't explain how to take it and insert it into the config command that Kevin says in his. It is imperative that you delete the "example" portion within the command that Kevin gives and replace it with your printer in the "LS" listing. After what seemed like forever, I was able to figure that out by following this video, where he explains exactly that. So, that's all said and done. Octoprint with Klipper is set up.

I then wanted to make my printer controllable from anywhere in the world. This was also a bit of a task if you've never done anything like it. I followed, yet again, another one of Chris's videos which explains how to do this in depth. Mind you, depending on the kind of router you have can ultimately decide how difficult doing this will be. I have Frontier and it took a bit of time because the verbiage he used wasn't parallel with what Frontier had, so it took a bit of digging into my router's settings. However, it is now set up, and I can control it anywhere!

Now, this was a lengthy portion of this post because I struggled getting through this, when I had no experience with this kind of thing, and I'm sure several others do not either. Again, some of these steps will be different than mine because every printer is unique.

Lastly, I have BLtouch physically installed and the plugin enabled on my Octoprint, but I've yet to get it configured and useable. That's my next plan of attack.

And then after that... clean up this mess and print a container for the guts of what used to be my control box! If anyone has any good STLs to accommodate for all the guts in the control box and the extra parts required for this, it would be greatly appreciated!

For everyone who's willing to read this far. I do have some questions I would love help with...

  • Is there any good how-to's that explain how to connect BLtouch with Octoprint/Klipper? I did buy the Pin 27 board to avoid having to pull pins out and reposition. Besides, I still wanted my main LCD screen to work. I had trouble finding any videos that explain exactly how to install the pin 27 board.

  • I dug up an old Logitech web cam so that I didn't have to buy a camera for it. However, the feed rate of my camera is very slow. And I recall there being an option to increase the FPS for the camera. But how?

  • Aside from the Octoprint server you can pull up on anything with internet access (computer, phone, tablet, etc.), is there any way to get some of the Octoprint apps such as OctoRemote or OctoAndroid to include the plugins you have, like Klipper? Or do they just operate off the base format of Octoprint.

  • For the Octoprint page when pulled up on your phone with the "Touch" plugin enabled, is it possible to have the webcam on the same page as your controls so that when you command your printer to move an axis you can be on the same page to watch it instead of having to pull down the menu and open "webcam"?

  • Lastly, is there any way to actually turn on/turn off your printer from anywhere? I imagine your Octoprint has to be constantly on for that to work.. but is there a better way? This guy explains how to do it by buying/making a relay that can be controlled with Octoprint. But can you get something that can turn on the Octoprint and your printer from your phone?
    Found my answer

    Thanks for everything guys, and hope you enjoy/find this useful in some form!
u/crazy_goat · 4 pointsr/hometheater

I have refurbished / reconditioned or otherwise repaired just about every component in my theater. The KEF speakers are all same era and generation, plus or minus a few years.

Front Channels: KEF 103/4 Reference speakers - owner replaced foam surrounds on the internal push/pull woofers - and I refurbished the ferrofluid in the tweeters. $175 off craigslist

Center Channel: NOS (new old stock) KEF Model 100 - found on craigslist. Someone found it in their garage, sitting new in box for 20 years. Refurbished the tweeter (ferrofluid replacement). $60 off craigslist.

Surround Channels: KEF C55 speakers that I found at Goodwill for $20. Complete cleanup - ferrofluid treatment of tweeters. Great condition otherwise.

Rear Channel: KEF Model 90 "center channel" speaker - bought this before I found the Model 100. Roughly the same speaker, but smaller tweeter than the model 100. Tweeter refurbed, cleaned up inside and out. I went with a 6.1 configuration because my room wouldn't benefit much from 7.1 - and the window placement made that difficult. Mixing 7.1 down to 6.1 doesn't change much. $40 off Craigslist.

Subwoofer: PA-120 Premier Acoustics 12'' Subwoofer had this sub for 8 years now, and love it to pieces. Very punchy, very powerful, very affordable. Weighs a metric ton - and customer service was top notch. (Amp malfunctioned after 6 years - got a new one from them free of charge).

Surround AV Receiver: Marantz SR6008 receiver I bought for $200 on ebay because it was 'for parts/not working.' The HDMI1 output (there are two) was burned out. Bought a new HDMI board from Marantz for a hundred bucks and the thing is good as new.

Speaker Mounts: The left C55 surround and rear channel are on custom made speaker mounts - the rear is half custom - mounted to one of the speaker mounts I got from Amazon.

Projection Screen: Custom 105'' Screen Frame and made from a canibalized Da-Lite screen I got for free from work. (was hiding in the plenum when we purchased our office space.

Projector: Benq HT1075 - bought new, because it's already so cost effective. Found it on sale at Frys for $699 a year ago. Very happy with this little projector.

Theater/Home Automation: Home Assistant running on an iPad 3 in the theater room. The iPad was sitting in a drawer, not in use for at least a year, and found an OEM apple dock for $5 on ebay for when it's not in use. I can control my Smart Things devices (z-wave dimmer) - MiLight LED strips behind the screen, in the EXIT light, and the bulbs in the uplight/spotlights in the room, I also integrated Broadlink RM2 support for controlling cheap 433mhz outlet switches for the air purifier, popcorn machine, and whatever else I need to control.

Movie Posters: Marketing department had a bunch of these frames in storage from an old PR campaign. Tore out the foamcore inserts, found high res posters, and ordered them on this silk-like fabric directly from China for $9 a pop. They look incredible up close, almost lithograph-like.

RGB Lighting: Generic RGB Strips I bought for $5 a pop on price mistake with Milight RGB controllers. Milight 9W RGBW bulbs I got for $13 each in $15 brushed steel uplights from Lamps Plus. All controled with the Milight WiFi controller through Home Assistant.

Seating was transitioned from the living room when we bought new sofas - raised the rear seating on 10'' platform. 12GA Speaker wire from my local wire wholesaler (similar price to monoprice). Looking for some carpet options - and have a lead on a local seller of OC703 for acoustic panels.

It's come a long way in a year - here's a before and after - December 2015 and April 2016 -- not the most recent, obviously - but I'm very proud with how it's coming together.

u/AlexTakeTwo · 1 pointr/smarthome

I haven't found a smart heater, but I have a heater that works with a Smart plug/sensor combo pretty well.

I have the Vornado Whole Room Heater which has three power settings. I set mine on medium, then plug it into a SmartThings outlet. In SmartThings, I created an automation to tie a particular multi-purpose sensor to the outlet, so if the temperature drops below a certain point, the outlet turns on, which turns the heater on.

The two key points are to find a heater which uses manual controls instead of digital, so it resumes the settings and turns on as power is restored, and to find a Smart outlet which is rated for enough power to the heater. My setup requires a SmartThings hub and is automated, but you could do similar with a good Alexa Echo Plus compatible outlet and voice control to say "turn the heater on" or "turn the heater off" or set up a Routine in the Alexa app based on time of day.

Depending on the heater you choose, it looks like the new Amazon Smart Plug should have enough capacity. It also comes in a Black Friday deal with the new Echo Dot if you need to add another Echo device.

u/Ron_Fuckin_Swanson · 2 pointsr/houseplants

If you are just going to use a clamp light...I highly recommend this style of clamp grow light on Amazon

In terms of bang for your buck, these are fantastic. They throw a lot of light, and its a nice warm white as opposed to the pink/purple that a lot of grow lights put off. They do get a little warm to the touch (like a dimmed down incandescent light bulb) on the back when they are if kids or pets may be an issue, you might want to go with the long slender tube style grow lights you can find on Amazon as those don't get warm at all. They aren't as bright, but they don't get hot.

The one caveat with this particular light is it doesn't have a timer built in. But I actually prefer that. You can use a simple appliance timer that you can get at any big box home improvement can use WIFI outlet plugs that are app controlled from your phone. These have built in timer functionality.

I prefer using the wifi plugs because it gives me more control. Like..say its the summer time, and you don't have your lights running all that much or at all. But, a big day of thunderstorms runs through. You can open the app, turn on the light, and set a countdown timer and the light will turn off after say 6 hours.

There are a lot of grow lights with built in timers on Amazon...but the way those work is turn the light on at 10AM and set it to 8 hours. Well, every day its going to come on at 10AM and run for 8 hours now. That might be all well and good, but what if you stay home sick? Or it's the weekend and you want to use the room without a grow light blaring in your face. Or what if it's a holiday and you don't want the bright light bugging you?

Also...If you are ever in the market for an LED bulb style grow light, SANSI makes the best. This 24 watt grow light is bright as can be. I have one mounted on a tripod speaker stand that I can move around the house to add supplemental light should it be required.

Currently I have one pointed down at some oxalis bulbs that I have growing so that they get a steady 8 hours of direct light per day to help speed up the starting process.

u/WorkAtBeing · 1 pointr/Hue

Thanks everyone for the responses..... This was my solution:
Step 1:

Looks like these guards are perfect; they'll be here next week and will frustrate my lovely bride to no end for at least a week BUT

Step 2:

Hue Dimmer. What a great product; easy to use, easy to set up and no playing around with electronics needed. I've set up one at the base of the stairs to just turn all lights on at full "soft white" brightness and one at the top of our stairs to do the same so she can turn everything off without walking down when the kids inevitably leave them all on.

Step 3:

iPhone 6 widgets with 10 scenes.

This appears to be what is going to work. Thanks everyone for the help.

u/bbluez · 45 pointsr/HomeImprovement

A bit more expensive, but I bought 25 feet of white LED strip and plug it into a smart plug. The plug is controlled by Alexa and also activates via a motion detector after 8pm and stays on for 5 minutes. Under $50 for the motion detector, smart plug and lights.

Here are some links to the set up. There are tons of different versions of these items (most are just rebrands from China). I do use a Smart Things Hub at home to manage everything, but there are hub-less ways to set this up as well. Check /r/homeautomation if you want to travel this rabbit hole. i also recommend setting up a SlickDeals alert for Zwave if you want great deals on smart devices.

Motion Detector

Plug (This is different than the one I use, but the least expensive option.)


u/desheik · 8 pointsr/malelivingspace

Warm up your kitchen space with a butcher block table, maybe something reclaimed? Consider moving your desk as its the very first thing you see when you walk through the door. The living room/kitchen is a long space so no matter what your living room furniture will be a focal point. It looks like a nice updated apartment, I think an industrial decor with a splash of bohemian conversation pieces would officially make this place baller. Below are two photos that I think you should marry together.

You should find a desk with some character:
(and some wire management wouldn't hurt)

You have some space near the entryway beside the cabinet, I like having a table there to place my keys/wallet/phone when I come home.

You need some huge art. If you have a Buddha in the can, you should have one in the living room!

I like the natural light, but does it feel like an operating room at night with the lights on? You'll need some lamps:$web_zoomTrans$&/1406251340/groove-floor-lamp.jpg
Pair them up with one of these bad boys so the ladies all think you're a rocket surgeon:

You need a place to check out the goods:

The bathroom just needs color, consider more vibrant towels and floor mat.

Last but not least, green. Studies show, people with plants are happier. Consider taking advantage of all the natural light with something like this:

u/guapo131 · 1 pointr/homeautomation


Motivation behind this setup: There are no overhead lights in the living room. So the lights we use are regular floor lamps. The wall outlets are not connected to any wall switches. So we use the etekcity remotes and outlets. It's nice because the remote sits centrally located in the living room on the coffee table.

Here is my setup:

- Etekcity remote controlled outlets, 5pk set, with 2 remotes: amzn link

- I wanted more remotes, so I bought more: amzn link

But you'll notice that the remotes are not paired to the outlets. Yes, the outlets have a "learn" button, but ... You have to think of it like this, the outlet learns the remote's code, not the other way around. So what if your remotes (the transmitters) have different codes? it doesn't work. So the only way to fix that is to make all the remotes transmit the same codes. So that's where you go to this review on amazon and do some soldering "It's about a 5 minute job if you're handy with a soldering iron." If you're not confortable with soldering, this is such an easy job that you could find a friend that does solder and show them the amazon review and have them do it for you.

So now I have 4 remotes (transmitters) controlling 5 outlets. Each transmitter has 5 pairs of on/off buttons and each transmitter operates the same way.

Outlet 1: Living room light 1

Outlet 2: Living room light 2

Outlet 3: Something

Outlet 4: small reading lamp in bedroom

Outlet 5: Main light in bedroom

Transmitter 1: living room coffee table

Transmitter 2: on the wall by the door to the bedroom

Transmitter 3: My side of bed

Transmitter 4: Wife's side of bed.

(Bonus: if I'm in the bedroom in bed and forgot to turn off the living room lights, I can use the same remote to turn off the living room lights)

Then, I paired the RF transmitter/outlets with a "Hook". (This particular smart home device does not appear to be available for sale any more, but it's still working for now. An alternative appears to be the Broadlink or Sonoff). The "hook" connects to the internet and converts internet commands to RF so that my Alexa can communicate with the RF outlets/lights.

So in summary, I have a wife-approved smart home situation. The wife can use the remote or Alexa to turn on or off these 5 lights. Nothing gets messed up if a light is turned on with one method and off with another. The setup doesn't care.

u/bluuit · 4 pointsr/Vive

Alright, here's a few simple things. Nothing very exciting, but I wouldn't go without them now.

The basestations are suppose to have like a 50k hour lifespan. Still, I had one of the rotors die and replaced under warranty. Now I use a remote switch like this one to conveniently shut down the lighthouses when not in use and extend their life. Also helpful if the IR interferes with anything.

Similarly, unplugging and plugging in the vive controllers to charge every use could eventually wear out the usb sockets. I use a pair of magnetic usb adapters similar to these which takes away that wear and tear, plus they are reversible and just snap in place super easy.

My basestations are screwed into the wall, but I also have a pair of these clamps which have been very useful and versatile when I've taken my Vive to demo at friends places, or the office. Makes it quick and easy to clamp them to a bookcase, curtain rod, door frame, drop ceiling grid, or whatever. Much better than the giant wobbly stands many people go for.

u/tannebil · 1 pointr/HomeKit

I stack a Hue switch on top of a switch cover. Not quite as ugly as sin but leaning that way. I have Decora switches so use a cover like this one.

Another option for a more permanent cover is this one.

You could use a smart switch if you wanted to be able to restore power after it was manually turned off but most smart bulbs (including Hue) automatically come on at 100% when power is restored so the user experience isn't great. Plus, in the normal state, turning them on manually takes two presses (off, on).

If local code allows it, you can wire around the switch and only control it with the Hue switches but that means turning off the power to the fixture requires a trip to the breaker box.

So, basically, there are no good solutions. It would be very cool if Hue had a wall switch that integrated a manual override switch with the Hue switch but maybe they don't see a market or it's more complicated than I imagine.

u/RalphP2 · 24 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

Here's something that HELPS ... won't protect 100%, but helps.

When they do spill, it runs down the cable, but not into the jack itself.

Next is to put it tab up, which helps the ones with cables in.

Tab down helps the ones WITHOUT cables, so that's a 50/50 if you have unused drops.

If you're paranoid enough, there's outdoor faceplates such as

Note: Both linkes are to because I do one of the charities that, well, supports. Swap "www" for "smile" if you are concerned about that at all.


u/im_eating_pizza_AMA · 1 pointr/battlestations

These are basically the best budget LEDs I could find and I tested a lot of different brands around that price range. I have 10 strands of these on my setup, essentially one per shelf, tied along the front edge, but hidden from direct view. That casts an even light across the whole shelf, as opposed to if you put them behind one of the TVs, the light was casting more of an aura effect that I didn't quite like.

These are also really great for casting a larger volume of light, say if you want to bounce a color off your back wall behind your monitor. Then put all your lights onto the same power switch and put them on a controller like this one. That's essentially the cheapest way to get a nice effect of whichever color you'd like.

u/DumplingDarling · 3 pointsr/DesignMyRoom

Really annoying when you're not given a light switch, especially for a bedroom! My suggestion is to [purchase one of these] ( and then use this for your "main light" in the room.

Next time for some window treatments. Since you're renting, I assume you don't want to invest too much, so how about some drapes in a color (other than grey) to give the room some umph. Here's three examples ([one] (, two, three) from pottery barn kids (they're having a sale), just for examples. That said, drapes come in all colors and price points, so find something that makes you happy.

Now, lastly, lets get some stuff on those walls of yours! Get 3-4 pieces that compliment eachother. Maybe all [vintage travel posters] ( or [old concert posters] ( If budget affords, framing makes these things look SO MUCH BETTER. Ikea has cheap wall frames, if needed. Really, find a genre that you find visually interesting and get a few pieces that match. If you're totally lost, Ikea has sets of posters (some already pre-framed) that you can pick up when you're there. Makes it pretty foolproof...

Pro tip: drapes should match the color scheme of the pieces on the wall.

Ninja addition: get a throw pillow or two for your bed in a color that compliments the drapes and the new colors from your artwork.

The mirror you mention, sounds good if you like it. The mirror will help bounce light around the room, which is good, but doesn't add color. You need a little color in that room to help it out.

u/komdaori · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I am controlling wireless sockets with my pi and a 433 MHz transmitter and it works flawlessly, so might be worth a thought

If you are looking into wiring them to the gpio pins, you have to make sure you find a dedicated relais that is able to switch the voltage and current and can be used with the pi. But please be careful when handling those. Don't just cut the cable and drill and place the wires into the relais. Use something like this to make sure you get a good contact. You are dealing with a lot of power afterall.

Sorry, English is not my first language :D

u/jamminj2 · 2 pointsr/GiftIdeas

For the gun lover in him:

Gag gift for BBQ's:

Gag gift for basement game night:

More and more people are switching to minimalist wallets:

Can never have enough light if you own land:

Portable jump starter, could be good since they're secluded:

Gettin up there in age, never lose keys again:

Awesome for the tea drinker:

Good smart house starter kit:

u/SadZealot · 2 pointsr/askanelectrician

Looking through the options I can't really find an affordable, convenient option for this that wouldn't be a chinese product with little support and that wouldn't be a huge headache.

Without knowing about the specific family of home control/ app economy you use its hard to recommend any of them at all but I can tell you what I would do for the highest quality experience and ability for expansion.

Buy a contactor like this. Put it in a box, put the plug into the box, put a light switch on the wall, tie it into the coil of the contactor. Get a generic wifi light switch that works on 110 that ties into Google or Amazon that's cheap and easily replaced.

This is the best full product I could find but it's zwave so you'd need a hub, it costs twice as much as putting a contactor in and you have to hardwire it anyway.

To be fair though I'm in industrial automation so my solution to most problems is to put relays in it

u/zwbenedict · 5 pointsr/homeassistant
  • 433mhz Transmitter with Etekcity Outlets

    -I followed BRUH Automation's tutorial to set this up. I immediately reprogrammed the outlets to custom codes. Home Assistant now has sole control over the outlets and I can re purpose the remote to be used for other commands

  • 433mhz Receiver with Etekcity Outlet Remotes

    -I currently use the remotes to control automations within HomeAssistant. When I push a button on the remote, it is received by the 433mhz rx that is connected to a NodeMCU. The NodeMCU takes the signal received and published the rf code to an MQTT topic. Home assistant is subscribed to that topic. I look for the payload of each published topic and if it matches the button I pressed it will run an automation.

  • 433mhz Motion Sensor

    -These broadcast a rf signal that is also received in the same fashion as the Etekcity Remotes do. Then published via MQTT from the NodeMCU.

  • Hue Bridge

    -I am currently using 2 white bulbs, 1 bloom, and 1 colored bulb. They are spread out across multiple rooms. I absolutely love the control you have with this product!

  • IR LED

    -The NodeMCU is subscribed to a topic that Home Assistant will published to when I tell it to trigger. This is currently in use to turn on the TV, Soundbar, and tower fan via Alexa. "Alexa, Turn on the tv" - runs a script in HA to publish to a MQTT topic. NodeMCU grabs the payload, my code determines the device, and blasts the signal - turning the TV on/off

  • IR Receiver

    -The TV remote has many useless buttons on it. I use these to also send commands to Home Assistant. For instance, I push button '1' on the remote. The NodeMCU processes the value received, publishes it via MQTT, Home Assistant looks at that payload and runs the corresponding automation - turning on the lamp in the living room.

  • Amazon Echo Dot

    -I currently use this with the emulated hue component. It works great for what I currently want it to do!
u/quarl0w · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I've been looking at ceiling fan options too. All of my fans are on multi switch circuits. One is two switch, another is three switch. Plus mine are all wired with the fan and light tied together. With both of those in mind I may never be able to use smart switches to control the light and fan separate.

I think I may have settled on child locks on the switches to keep them on like this:
Dual Option Wall Switch Guard (3 Pack) Clear Rocker

With this fan:

The fan has everything I want, and looks nice. Part of my motivation is one of my fans is really noisy, and both scream 90's. When I look at the cost of 5 smart switches, and two new fans, and maybe smart bulbs, the cost is pretty close, and the gardinier fans simplify everything a lot more.

Same line of reasoning for the garage door opener. My opener is 15 years old and last winter I thought it was dead. So I don't know if I should get a Zwave controller for $100, if I may replace the opener soon, weighed against the cost of an opener with MyQ built in. I'm torn.

u/Suvega · 1 pointr/smarthome

You want this: Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption

Then get a 240v 2 phase plug and a socket. Wire the smart switch up to the two. So you have plug - switch - socket.

Then you plug your air compressor to this new thing you just made and the new thing to the wall.

You will need a hub to control it.

Bonus you also get current and electricity usage for free :)

u/samikapanen · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Thanks for the response! This looks to be exactly what I want do. Really useful information. I have a comp sci background which a much heavier emphasis on programming so some of the electronics and circuit material is new to me. I already have a home server set up so I could utilize that. I had a couple of follow up questions:

I do not have access to an oscilloscope or logic analyzer and anything I saw online seemed quite pricey. Any suggestions on a bargain for one?

I was looking at getting these:

They seem pretty similar to ones listen in your instructable. I imagine there's a good chance that the sequence may be the same? How does the channel impact this?

What would I need in terms of a programmer, breadboard, and wiring?

Any suggestions for familiarizing myself with those?

u/notanexpertperse · 0 pointsr/DIY

Easy and cheap hack to do this. Step one (while light/fan is off), open fan grate and pull fan cord from plug. Step two, figure out how much space you have in there. Step three, get a remote control "light switch" to plug in between the fan and the fan plug. Note: These are about $10 and plentiful for operating Xmas lights right now. Upside is this hack is cheap, slight downside is you can only use the fan while the light is on, but you can keep the fan off and still have the light on. Also, while you are messing with the light/fan with the grate off, maybe buy a nice LED bulb to replace whatever incandescent/CFL is in there, it will be a whole lot cooler/brighter and better for your new "light switch".


u/CuedUp · 2 pointsr/DIY

I put these USB outlets in a few areas around the house where I typically charge my phone or am sitting for awhile - near the beds, at the kitchen island and drop zone, by the recliner and bar, etc. Make sure to get ones that provide a high-mAh output. Mine put out 2.4mAh at each port, not total. I didn't bother with QuickCharge compatible but you could.

I just built my house a few years ago and had Cat6 Ethernet wired to each room along with RG6 coax. I do wish I'd have had the contractors put in conduit to make running future lines easier, so you could consider that. (Home theater down the line? Run conduit so you can hide your cables and receiver elsewhere! etc.)

If you're handy or run power tools in the garage often, consider a subpanel for the garage with some 20A circuits. I trip my 15A circuits once or twice a summer when I have a shop vac, table saw, and maybe one other device running simultaneously, and when I eventually get into welding I'll be limited by my lack of 220V out in the garage.

If you want security cameras outside, you could think about running Ethernet out to some soffits and using PoE compatible cameras.

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. Good luck!

u/00000000000 · 1 pointr/amazonecho

Did you figure out a solution?

I have the exact same issue I want to solve.

I've been reading and I just had the idea to put a Bluetooth adapter on a wemo switch (or other smart switch?) and have Harmony turn that on when selecting the Bluetooth/Echo activity. I'm not sure Harmony can do that natively, but maybe with the help of ifttt?



Seems like Wemo is not supported natively, however I discovered this IR remote controlled switch. I think that Harmony should be able to control that, and turn it on together with the Start Bluetooth/Echo activity. I think I'm going to give it a shot!

Edit 2 - nevermind, that switch is controlled by rf, not ir, and thus won't work.

u/BuckleBean · 1 pointr/Vive

I've got the vive link box running mini-DP to the PC. Almost every time I start the vive, I have to "reboot" the link box to get the display to turn on. I've heard there are issues with mini-DP, but I'm seeing people using HDMI report similar problems. I don't understand why it's happening. I have the link box power connected to an outlet with a remote like this:

Using the remote to power it off & on fixes things and I get a picture in the vive. It's easier than physically powering the link box off & on. Wish I understood why this was happening & had a better solution. It's almost as if the vive is "asleep" & needs a power cycle to "wake up."

u/CaptMcAllister · 0 pointsr/dataisbeautiful

I think it's a very nice plug, no question. I'm not sold on the usefulness of having a fuse in an individual cord. I can count on one hand the number of times that I have actually had a circuit breaker or fuse pop correctly, and it seems like fuses go bad for no reason more often than they go bad for a good reason. As evidence of this, think of how many times you have just replaced a fuse without having to fix anything else - that's a sign that the fuse shouldn't have blown in the first place.

In the US, we do have plugs now that require both prongs to be inserted simultaneously, making it similarly impossibly to stick a screwdriver or whatever in there ( As I understand, these are code for new construction in some places. I view these as the best of both worlds - safe, but no ground prong required when not needed.

The final thing is that the UK plugs have nonconductive prongs except at the tips. I am not sure if this is doable with the US plug as it is much more narrow, and any plastic may break. It would be really nice if we could have that too.

So I'd call that a 1 point advantage and the UK plug still wins.

u/mazdarx2001 · 2 pointsr/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS

If you just want to control the power to devices from anywhere, then this would work fine. They are super easy. Takes like 5 min to set up hardware and software. There is a free app that allows you to control it. If you have Alexa or google home then they will also control them.

u/01chickennugget · 1 pointr/pools

I would like to run all the other equipment except the heater at the same time (chlorinator and pump) and only have the heater off but in pool heat mode with a set temp so when powered with a switch it turns on and begins to heat. I have a inline thermostat that monitors the water temp going to the heater to gauge the temp.

From the panel it goes into this switch:

Which ties into a home automation platform for on and off times. I would also like to use the same style of switch for the heater so on a swim day I can check the temp and fire up the heater from work to pre-heat the pool so it is ready to go when I get home (father of young impatient kids who don't like swimming in cold water)

There is a disconnect outside.

Current flow

240V Panel --> IN Smart Switch OUT --> IN Disconnect Switch OUT --> IN chlorinator OUT ---> IN Heater OUT --> PUMP

Hope this is more helpful.

u/Ampsnotvolts · 3 pointsr/Vive

But honestly the small hangers they include are pretty good and running your light house up to a permanent place on the wall isn't a bad deal considering it gets rid of any space concerns.

But consider something like this as well -

So you can turn stuff on and off from one area and don't have to plug/unplug each lighthouse when you want to use or put away. Something like this lets you just control power remotely. I had AUKEY ones that apparently aren't sold anymore so I can't link them. There should be some better ones that are smaller in my opinion, but it made turning off the whir/whine sound of the lighthouses much easier than plugging/unplugging them over and over.

u/indianacpl · 3 pointsr/googlehome

I use sonoff switches, have had extremely good luck with them. The sonoff basic is made to be wired inline. I just take and make a small pig tail out of an extension cord instead of cutting cords on lamps and fans. I currently have 7 of them running thru out my house.

They work with assistant and ifttt. They are inexpensive also. You can get a 3 pack off Amazon for $21.90.
sonoff 3 pack

Plus they are fun to play with. Pisses my wife off when I shut the lights off on her when I’m at work lol.

u/jobu01 · 1 pointr/InteriorDesign

If you have some basic wiring skills, you could use LED lights like some mentioned. I went this route connected to a remote controlled outlet and it works great. I like the light bars since you can reuse them later more easily than taping plain LED light strips onto the underside directly.

Some cheap lights if you're patient and willing to give AliExpress a try: LED Light strip bars, 12V driver (it also works for 120V), sticky strips, wireless outlet and/or switched cord.

u/TotalWalrus · 15 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

Good news! You can totally do this!! Look into smart plugs. Try and find one that let's you control it away from home as well and you will be able to turn each other's lights off (if you plugged a lamp in) at any time.


Be warned however that these can also be easy entryways for hackers into your network (usually to make you part of a botnet) so don't buy the cheapest ones and make sure to change all default passwords. Cheers mate!

u/tastyratz · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Blocking the socket is fine if you have it suspended above by magnets. Technically it's not even a permanent installation that way.

Yes you would need to install a new box, but you would need to anyways if you were looking to put the tablet at the right height with hidden power. And the box I linked is good for new work or old work so you could easily retrofit it into an existing wall. If you have a place to rats nest a transformer then you have a place for this.

Even better than a transformer is something like this:

Then just lay a thin QI mat on top

u/DrkMith · 4 pointsr/Nest

I would be looking at a issue with the power, measuring voltages, sometimes when there are wierd issues I use a voltage data logger over the weekend to see what the power is doing...but that's not a normal thing for people to have access to lol
On the cameras I install to be extra safe(as they are computers) I replace the electrical outlet with one that contains a surge protector like this:
Leviton 15 Amp Commercial Grade Tamper Resistant Decora Duplex Outlet with Surge Suppressor, White
Leviton 5280-W 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Decora Plus Duplex Surge Suppressor Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Self Grounding, White

It's a small investment that will help protect the cameras from surge and cant hurt

u/MasterBuilderBater · 4 pointsr/gadgets

Depending on how much you want to spend, this could be done several different ways. Let's just say you want to keep it under $35... Here's what you might do (keep in mind this isn't exactly what you were going for, but it might be a better option depending on how you look at it):

Get the ZAP 5XL from Amazon for $30. It comes with 5 outlet adapters that plug into one socket on each of your existing outlets, and gives you a remote controlled outlet. These outlets are then controlled by a wireless remote that has 5 on/off buttons. The remote can be programmed to control multiple outlets with one button.

You could then surface mount a blank wall plate to the wall, and use a 3m command Velcro like strip to attach the remote to that blank wall plate. This would allow the remote to act as a stationary wall switch and also a removable remote control.

u/SemiNormal · 20 pointsr/CrappyDesign

You need to find one that supports 3 amp charging. I have one of these and it works great. Something like the TOPGREENER brand outlets might be better if you are charging tablets.

u/Dd7990 · 1 pointr/bettafish

OK... so regarding the tank lights... have you considered a basic outlet timer? or if you want a cool techy one - there are app-controlled outlet plugs nowadays:

Many other options on Amazon, and bundles of more than 1 plug if you are interested - you do need to set them up w/ 2.4 Ghz wifi - App: Smart Life App iOS/Android

then you can set up a time schedule from the app for the outlet to be on or off at certain times, or control it on or off directly from the app.

I have these currently running my tank lights automatically, just set it and forget it :) - you have to leave the light switch itself ON, but plug the cable into the Smart Outlet Plug - the outlet plug then either allows or blocks power going to the tank lights, effectively controlling it to be on or off.

u/MontyAtWork · 1 pointr/Vive

I highly recommend you grab this. You just press a button and the stations turn on and off. I can even use it way across the house. Makes turning them off freaking quick and when you demo to people it looks cool to just (already have PC on) turn on controllers and hand them the headset as you press 2 buttons on the remote to power on the base stations.

I've had them for ~3 years now for my front room which has lava lamps and other light up geeky stuff. When I got Vive on launch, these puppies were ready to help make startup easy.

u/krazineurons · 1 pointr/gadgets

Oh Wow! This just made my cheap home automation even cheaper.. This is my rig: a 2x $30 pack of 5 RF outlets and a $50 Hook that converts these outlets into smart outlets, with a $49 echo dot now i can control all my lamps and appliances in my home all under $200 with my Voice and my phone.. Loving it!

u/ChrisGristle · 2 pointsr/AmateurRoomPorn

The floor lights are just three fixtures from Home Depot with a PAR20 LED spotlight bulb. They are pretty cool to the touch, so I think they're ok. I may just upgrade the lighting with dimmable smart bulbs. For the patio, I'm using a 35 watt Grow Light from Amazon. It's temporarily hung from a hurricane shutter rail. All lighting is remote controlled with these.

u/LocalAmazonBot · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

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This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/sriracha_plox · 1 pointr/arduino

Lots of excellent advice here already cautioning against wiring up to your mains. I agree completely.

This would be a somewhat different kind of project, but why not plug the coffee pot into one of those RF remote-controlled outlets the hardware stores always have on sale this time of year for holiday decorations? Something like this - and then have your Arduino take over the job of the keychain remote. You'd just be triggering the relays already built into the outlet instead of your own relay board, by communicating on the frequency where it's listening for the remote instead of being physically connected to mains, even indirectly.

Just a thought. I am not an expert, but I would personally recommend against any modifications to your home wiring unless you are a licensed electrician - in which case I suspect you wouldn't be asking these questions here.

u/isit2amalready · 5 pointsr/AskMen
  1. I custom ordered blinds from Home Depot because I have floor to ceiling windows. I ended up not being happy with them. I ordered from a local window place and they made me custom ones that were a lot nicer, cheaper, and included installation. The cheaper sounding option isn't always.

  2. I made the following electronic wiring upgrades myself (really easy to do):

    USB ports for friends who come over and want to charge their phones:

    Timer for the shower fan so you don't always leave it on:

    Motion activated lights everywhere, esp the closets:

    Edit: formatting
u/hydrobotproject · 1 pointr/Hydroponics

Hey! We're not including probes since we've found that a lot of people either already have them or want to purchase either low end or high end ones. Price is $550 for the Kickstarter special.

Yupp, works in any browser, anywhere in the world. No firewall modifications needed at all, it just works. Works with any wireless fan controller that is 433mhz, it currently handles 4 settings so lo/med/high/off, but software could be modified easily to handle more. Also works with any 433mhz outlet like - and it can handle an unlimited amount of 433mhz outlets / fan controllers.

Yup, it's all open source and hackable. Running Linux on Raspberry pi zero and also has an Arduino.

u/lgodsey · 2 pointsr/AskOldPeople

My mother is a retired nurse, and if you know anyone who worked in healthcare, they will tell you the last place they want is a nursing home. She would likely die within a few weeks, absolutely no exaggeration. So we have a nice wheelchair ramp into her home, plenty of rails in her walk-in shower, a nice seat and plenty of room to maneuver her walker. She has a push-button recliner and a handy remote control to turn on her bedroom lights and heater.

She is disabled, so I have to help her dress and cook for her and frequently pick up after her, but her mind is sharp and she takes care of her finances. It's just random things she needs help with, like her hearing and lack of dexterity makes it impossible to use automated phone menus, stuff like that. Every fall we buy cracked pecans that she opens to extract nutmeats, which helps her retain some range of movement in her hands.

I live with her now after years of rehabilitation following hospital screw-ups (some sent her to the ICU with organ failures due to hospital/facility incompetence). She has a much better quality of life and, again, both of us know she would be long dead if she were relegated to a nursing home.

u/Safetymanual · 1 pointr/smarthome

I'm getting an Amazon smart plug for my heater. Here's the specs on it.

Electrical Ratings

Input: 100-120VAC, 60Hz 15A
Max Output: 15A Max

Source is the Amazon page for it,

Should be safe with that. Please note that I am not an electrician and this is just my 2 pennies.

u/tomgabriele · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

> A workaround could be using a smart home setup, which would require a hub, smart switch, and smart outlet.

If I understand OP's situation correctly, this $100 Lutron kit will have what they need to replace a wired switch and add wireless control.

But if they just need to remotely control an outlet, there are cheaper non-connected options with a simple RF remote like this $16 one.

u/hunterstee · 1 pointr/homeautomation

No personal experience with it, but what about something like this?

EDIT: I red gud...just noticed you're hoping for wifi. I'm not aware of anything like that.

u/DanStapleton · 1 pointr/HomeKit

Apparently this "Needs to be in the megathread." It's about garage door openers.

I don't get it: Virtually every option I've seen so far requires me to hard-wire a device into my garage door opener, which I'm sure I could do but would much rather not have to spend a whole afternoon on.

Meanwhile, I can buy a $15, battery-powered button that can be easily programmed to open and close my garage door at any convenience store, but you're telling me that no one has built that same simple functionality into a $10 smart plug that I can stick in my garage and program the same way? And maybe pair with a separate door sensor to tell if the garage is open or closed?

I realize this wouldn't be quite as good or reliable as the hard-wiring route but it seems like there are millions of people with older garage door openers who would snap up a $50 device that was as easy to configure as the thing they have in their car. Someone take that idea and make a bajillion dollars on Kickstarter, please.

I am told MyQ does this, but it's my understanding that MyQ is $80 and charges a monthly fee for some ridiculous reason. It is therefore disqualified and needs a competitor who charges a reasonable price for this very simple thing.

u/asdfasdafas · 1 pointr/homeautomation

> See, I didn't even know that was a thing. Glad I opened this thread already. So much to research.
> Thanks.

No prob man, and they really do work amazingly. Here's an amazon link for the z-wave plus outlets:

Here's the link for the switches and add-on switches. They come in either paddle or toggle style, and in a couple colors. You can also get switches that support dimming if that's your thing.

If it's a 3-way, the functionality of the add-on will match that of the other switch. So if it's a dimmer on the main side, the add-on has that as well.

u/Orpheus321 · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Home automation is fun as hell too. You can get some RF outlets and an RF Transmitter and Receiver and hook them up to your pi and then install Home Assistant to control it all from your phone.
This was just one quick tutorial I looked up that explains it pretty well. I've got the same thing on my setup. You can program command line switches into it, so anything you normally do from the command line you can program into Home Assistant as a button. Backups, file transfers, ssh commands, bash scripts, anything.

So I've got Tasker and when my phone connects to my home's wifi it will trigger the job in Tasker to start the CL switch in Home Assistant called "Home" and it runs a bash script to basically send the RF codes to turn on power strips for computer/ monitors, send a Wake On Lan (WOL) packet to turn on my computer, send an SSH command to an IR transmitter to turn on my AC, and send an RF signal to turn on the radio. AND, if you set up your own OpenVPN server at home you can log in remotely to your local network and turn on your RF outlets from anywhere. Telling you, you can get deep lol. If you ever need any help I'll do what I can.

u/x2mike2x · 5 pointsr/DIY

I am not aware of a way to wire a switch in a headboard that is up to code. You would probably need to attach the bed to the wall/floor so it is considered part of the structure, and any exposed wire would need to be in conduit. Can you put the switch in the wall?

Let me give you a simpler option if you want the switch on the headboard.

  1. Get an outlet to where you want your lights to start.

  2. Buy this and plug it into said outlet. Stick the switch to the headboard.

  3. But this plug it in.

    I have used these LEDs on a few projects. They are cheap and you can buy additional strips to extend them, or you can cut them shorter. Just make sure your power adapter has the current for the length you attach. They come with a remote which can turn them on and off and set the color and brightness. However, they remember the state they were in. So you could set them to a cool blue or pink or whatever she likes and forget about the remote. Then, with the wireless switch I linked, she can easily just turn them on and off. (you could always turn them on and off with the remote, but it's nice to have a switch because it is always in one place.)
u/jeremypimping · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

The only reason I see to do a switched outlet next to the bed is for a lamp. You could make it "smart" by either doing switched outlet like this or do a plug in module like this. You could then use your phone or a z-wave keypad/switch to control the outlet.

To use Z-Wave you would need a controller. If you're into DIY programming Home Assistant is the way to go. There are off the shelf controllers like Vera that do this without major programming.

If you're getting into switched outlets and switches i'd recommend going with something not WiFi, as you don't want to clog up your network.

u/wolframajax · 15 pointsr/cedarrapids

Seriously, why is this still an issue. Please, listen to me and you will never have an item stolen from your garage again..

here are my step to winning this war.

  1. There is a $25 wireless camera you can buy at home depot or amazon.
  2. buy a few smart lights that connect to your wireless. something like this, your choice
  3. buy a few smart socket plugs that work with wifi
  4. create an account and ties all these device together.

    So this would be the easy way to do this, my setup is a little more complex but it works like this.

    The wyze cam is in the corner of my garage and can see all doors and windows, when it senses movement the camera sends a notice to which can then simply turn on the lights and I also have an old radio plugged into the smart switches in the on position and they get blasted with a loud radio.


    In my case, I use the wyse to fire a trigger to the lights to alternate the light to blink red and blue, but you dont have to be that fancy as lights and loud AM talk radio will scare away most meth heads.


    So for under $100 you can protect your property while you are away or sleeping.


    Adding this part, I do not work for Wyze, I only use their products. but making this even easier for people is Wyse also makes lightbulbs and will soon be making switches that can trigger off movement in the camera.
u/kronicoutkast · 24 pointsr/homeautomation

I wanted to control my 240v AC unit too, ended up buying this:

Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption

I got an extension cord that would work for my AC unit and spliced in the switch. You could splice it into the cord from the AC if you want to.

Worked fantastic last summer.

u/prozacgod · 1 pointr/esp8266

I'm glad someone got this brand reversed, I couldn't figure out the esp module and when I went to deep dive, I .... um... totally overheated the esp module and .... everything came off the board :P

I got these originally ( their innards look practically identical to the pictures you posted.

I got a pair of these plugs ( - When I cracked them open the ESP module was on its own daughter board, on pins no less - and could easily be removed, an swapped for the esp12? modules I had on hand, much much much easier to futz with.

u/Syde80 · 1 pointr/homeautomation
Sure, I'd get this receptacle instead


Normally a fan of Cooper, but like this receptacle for USB. You can actually fit something in all sockets on it at the same time as long as you are not using a bulky ac adapter.
u/he_who_lurks_no_more · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You can put an Aeon Labs ZW078-A

I use one of these on my Electric car charger and it works perfectly. Added bonus is it meters the power so you can report on how much heating the driveway is costing you

u/kalub92 · 1 pointr/smarthome

I’ve needed the same thing since I work from home and always thought one of those ‘ON AIR’ lights like this would be so cool:

You could mount it on the wall above the door and find a way to run the cable down the doorframe with some adhesive cable ties to hide the cord. Plug it in if you have an outlet near the door, otherwise run it under the door and power it in your office, then use a cheap Alexa-enabled smart plug to toggle it on/off with voice.

I recommend these smart plugs as I use them in my office:

u/BerZirx · 5 pointsr/Vive

I have my entire vive setup (both base stations and link box) connected to a remote outlet I bought on Amazon.

I turn them on with a press of a button only when I use my vive. It works great! If you can, I recommend doing this so the stations and headset aren't always getting power.

u/CynicallySane · 2 pointsr/smarthome

I would focus more on the smart switch aspect and less on the monitoring aspect. You could get an energy monitor that is capable of observing total consumption of your home. Look at Sense or Aeotec, they both have products for that. I think they can both slowly begin to identify individual devices, their consumption, and alert you when they're on or if they've been on for longer than a predefined amount of time.

There's a broader range of products that are simple z-wave devices and don't focus on energy monitoring. However, 20 Amp zwave deives are a bit hard to find. Aeotec has one for up to 220v and 40amps, which may work.

Go Control has a similar product for 20 Amp 120 circuits.

u/ryudoadema · 1 pointr/Vive

Why not just get something like these? I ordered similar a few days ago, but have had different ones for a few years and they work great.

u/UserNotAvailable · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Concerning the voice interface:

Unfortunately I don't have much information about voice authentication. For the speech recognition there are a few ways to go. You can either use an open source project such as CMU Sphinx or simon, you can use a smartphone and SiriProxy (example) or you could offload the recognition to Wolfram Alpha.

There are of course many more options, those are just the ones I remember reading about. You should definitely do a search for "Home automation voice control" and similar terms.

I think an Arduino is a good choice for the outside interface. The Arduino can communicate with the "voice control box" either via USB /Serial, or over a network shield. Depending on how your software is organized, network might be easier.

For the individual controls, you will need to be more specific still. Look at the fan, thermostat, air conditioner and check how they are currently controlled. Is there a remote for them? Do they have some kind of interface exposed, is there a button that could easily be accessed?

There are many different ways. For example:


  • If they have a plug, you could use something like this
  • Even without a plug you could use this
  • Or you could change the light bulb for this
  • This might also work.
  • Or you could connect them directly to a relais controlled by the Arduino.

    All these options have different advantages and disadvantages.

    The IR controlled bulb will need the sender in the same room, and controlling multiple bulbs with separate commands might be tricky.

    The RF outlets and sockets are a bit tricky to get to work at first.

    The X10 control is the most robust and mature system, but also one of the more expensive options.

    Directly controlling the lights with relais either requires lots of cabling or many small slave units that will need another way of communicating with the master.

    These are all just intended as starting points for you. Usually for a bachelor thesis you will need to not just demonstrate what you used, but also what you considered and didn't use, and why you didn't use these options.
u/amperages · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Not sure why you were down voted.

Anywho, these are the ones I installed around my house:

Easy to install, too. You don't really have to have an electrician do it although you can if you want to be safe. You can always watch a few videos on youtube on how to install these as long as you follow simple rules like "pretend the wire is always hot" (kind of like pretending the gun is always loaded, even when it's not).

Basically, shut power off at the breaker for the plug you're working on, take off faceplate, pull wiring out, take note of cables, colors, etc and connect them to new plug. My wires were white, black, and no-color (copper, which was ground/neutral).

u/iamofnohelp · 1 pointr/techsupport

Get a smart plug and a lamp.

First hit on Amazon.

Mini Smart Plug Outlet Works with Amazon Alexa Google Assistant IFTTT, No Hub Required, ETL and FCC Listed Wifi Enabled Remote Control Smart Socket by Gosund

u/TravestyTravis · 3 pointsr/homelab

That's a great point! I will have to get something like this now that you mention it!

u/imagine_amusing_name · 2 pointsr/DIY

Do you have an alexa or echo? you can get a wifi-controlled plug socket.
It plugs into the wall. extension plugs into have voice controlled socket you can give a name to.

For example - Alexa, turn off the Patio Lights.

If you later decide to remove the lights, you can re-use the plug for bedroom lamps or even a kettle.

Fill it with water and you've got a kettle you can remotely switch on. - very cool if you're on your way home and can turn on the coffee maker, so your coffee is just ready as you open the door :)

Can also do timers, so can have stuff turn on 5mins before you wake up for work so stuffs ready for you.

u/Salty__Snacks · 1 pointr/BabyBumps

I have a white noise machine for myself because it helps me sleep. It plugs into this guy so I can turn it on and off with a remote. I use the same remote for other outlets around my house, mostly lamps. It’s awesome. So you could get a remote controlled or Bluetooth enabled outlet and use any sound machine you want.

u/redlotusaustin · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

You could do things like you're planning but I would add in a water-valve to cut the water in addition to the power (you want to cut both so the washer doesn't run while it's dry). I would also use Home Assistant instead of IFTTT, since it will be faster and won't rely on your internet being up to work. If you go with ZWave device, you'll need some kind of hub, which Home Assistant can act as (with a ZWave USB stick).

However, unless you want to tie this particular issue into a large home automation system (getting text messages when the leak sensor is triggered for example), you might be better off with something like this, which is an all-in-one system for exactly your use-case:

Personally, I'd go with that kit, otherwise you're looking at:

u/cwdesignsvs · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

i recommend these:

I use them on my co2 solenoid and my lights and I love them!

u/ailee43 · 1 pointr/Android

Hmm, those are addons, i was looking at retrofit (actually replace the wall outlets.

Lemme check how much our addon ones are: ok, we can get ones like that for about the same price. Theyre not x10 standard though, and only work with their own remotes and the range is pretty short (10-20 feet)

u/kuhlio1977 · -3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Maybe something like this?

3-Pack Sonoff WiFi Switch Wireless Remote Control Smart Switch Module ABC Shell Socket For DIY Smart Home

u/shout4 · 6 pointsr/gpumining

Those are the smart sensors, They control the 3 exhaust fans per temp readings. They also act as motion sensors and turn the lights on in the room when I walk in. The white boxes on the right wall are 240v smart switches that control power on/off from my phone manually or triggered by scene i.e. temp to high, or ping failure reboot rig. Energy monitor installed inside breaker box also smart home (Z-Wave). All is controlled by a Vera smart home controller. Links below.

u/Ralph90009 · 1 pointr/pics

It looks like [these are 2.1 each] ( if that helps any.

EDIT 1: On further reading, that is incorrect. My apologies.
EDIT 2: [These are rated at 4.0 (2.0 each)] ( which seems just about your speed.^1

1: And mine, they're going in my wish list.

u/Cozmo85 · 0 pointsr/nashville

OP, make sure you install a surge protected outlet like this one. Lowes and home depot will both carry them

u/MiataCory · 1 pointr/learnpython

Nah, skip all that. Do a wifi switch (~$30) and then just write a python script that triggers the OEM software for it.

For someone who doesn't know anything about hardware/software, a pre-built solution would work better than trying to piece together an arduino stackup from some tutorials.

Here's a 3-pack for $20, they're only good for 10a though, so I'd be leery using them with a heater.

u/UpYourButtJobu · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Z-wave+ is the wireless communication protocol the device uses to talk to your home automation integrator (smarthub, Google Home, Home Assistant, Homeseer, etc.).

Here's a link for the switch recommended above:

And a z-wave+ smart plug:

Though, if you're feeling handy (and if you're able to wire the switch), you can also get and wire a z-wave plus outlet instead:

Again, make sure any plug you get can handle the requirements of your fireplace.

u/V8CarGuy · 1 pointr/WeMo

Yes, Amazon’s brand.

Amazon Smart Switch

Not perfect, but so far 100% reliable for me in 1.2 years. Works perfectly with Alexa. You'll need the Alexa app to set timers, and control it remotely.

Wish Amazon would come out with a wall switch. The problem with this type of setup is that unless you have a phone or an Alexa, the only way to manually turn on a light is by the little switch on the side. A problem for guests.

u/cpqq · 5 pointsr/wyzecam

What the other poster already said, it's USB-A -> Micro-USB.

It's only powering 5V DC @ 1000mA.

You're using an indoor device, and an indoor outlet.

If you really wanted to be 'up to code' you'd install an outdoor AFCI / GFCI outlet and a waterproof box like this:

You would use the included 1000mA AC adapter and keep it waterproof inside there, making it AFCI GFCI compliant up to 2014 NEC code.

There is no RJ45 -> microUSB and RJ45 -> USB and solution that you're thinking of - the above is the actual 'compliant' method.

A 6-12 foot Micro-USB extension cable that's 12 foot is just fine. If you want to be safe, run it through some conduit for protection.

u/follow_it · 1 pointr/zwave

You can replace the outlet completely if you are OK with doing basic electrical work. This GE Z-Wave top plug-in is a smart outlet and the bottom a normal plug.

u/Tshootz · 1 pointr/ifttt

So I am just starting out in this wonderful world Home Automation and have kind of an obscure idea, but don't quite know how to get this to work.

I just purchased a SmartThings Hub, a 240v switch, an Ecobee 4 thermostat, and some window contact sensors. I unfortunately don't have Central AC, but there is a rather large window unit upstairs that I want to turn on if the windows are closed and the the indoor temperature is above 74.

Is it possible to build an applet within the IFTTT Platform that will look at SmartThings to see if the windows are closed AND check the indoor temperature before turning on the 240v switch?

If I'm not asking in the correct place please point me to where I should be asking this. Any help is appreciated!

u/juicius · 1 pointr/GoRVing

If you're comfortable with some python and working with a relay, you can pretty much roll your own with very little trouble. You can do voice control integration on your own, or work with Google assistant or Alexa. Even for 120v, you can intergrate something like [this] (

u/telekinetic · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I actually was looking for the information on the one i bought to post after I hit submit on my comment. [Etekcity Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch for Household Appliances, White (Learning Code, 5Rx-2Tx)] ( P6OGMCD7 promotion code gets you $8.50 off right now, which gets it to $21.48 with free Prime shipping for five outlets and two remotes. You can actually do even better than interfacing with the remote, since the protocol is wrll documented at 433mhz, and you can just buy a couple dollar transmitter board and interface it to your arduino or RPi or whatever.

u/DefaultGen · 1 pointr/gamecollecting

I use those cheap eTekCity remote control outlets to shut my game room surge protectors on and off. I don't think I'm saving any electricity, but I sleep better knowing I don't have a dozen AC adapters from the 1980s plugged in, especially the ones that stay warm even when things are turned off.

u/nuffnuf · 14 pointsr/AskWomen

Remote operated plug things - turn off your plugged-in things with a simple remote. (This 2-remote 5-plug combination is 48 cents over BUT they have a 1-remote 3-plug version). Total lifesaver.

u/GraniteEcho · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

This is what I use for my dryer. It was the only energy monitor I could find for the high amperage.

Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption

u/e-JackOlantern · 1 pointr/Clarity

Amazon Smart Plug, works with Alexa

I had my concerns with it being safe to use but I couldn’t find any information definitively saying it was unsafe. I’ve checked on it periodically and I haven’t noticed it heating up at all. After seeing the savings, I really want to get a Level 2 charger since it typically takes an additional couple of hours to top of my battery outside of non peak hours.

u/destroycarthage · 8 pointsr/DiWHY

You can get them at any Home Depot or Lowe's. This is what they look like). They are very easy to install, just make sure you've cut power to the outlet by turning off the respective breaker/fuse.

u/mannythevericking · 1 pointr/xboxone

This happens to me every once in a while.

I don't think it's a low battery issue either.

What I do is set up my Xbox to one of those remote control outlet clickers to mimic a force shutdown (instead of having to pull the power plug).

That seems to fix it, for me at least.

Interestingly, it only affects my Gears Xbox One S, and it never happened to my OG fat Xbox one.

Just, uh, make sure you know what button input is the Xbox on the remote clicker. Would be super trolly if someone turned off your Xbox mid gameplay on accident.

This is a random one I found on Amazon.

u/SamB22 · 2 pointsr/alexa

"Normal" depends on what outlet you buy. My outlets put out 4.0a total. Phones usually take 1.0a. Tablets usually take 2.1a.

TOPGREENER TU2154 4.0 Amp Smart High Speed USB Wall Charger Outlet, 15A TR Receptacle Free Screwless Wall Plate, White

u/Atterall · 2 pointsr/electronics

Not sure if you mean a smart plug as meaning a plug which can keep track of things like how much power is consumed or if you just need an outlet which can be switched on and off.

If it is the later (just swtiching an outlet on and off) I've been pretty succesful with my project (so far) of using these Etekcity remote outlets which routinely go on sale @ :

Mixed with the knowledge gained from this article: it is pretty simple, safe and most importantly to me: cheap to interface the outlets to a wifi enabled device.

Definitely not plug and play by any means but there is no mains voltages to have to worry about fooling around with and if you get your ducks lined up outlets can be very very cheap compared to outlets which come with WiFi connectivity which seem to go from $30/piece to almost a hundred bucks a pop.

EDIT: for a more out of the box solution you might check out Connor Wolf's video here : where he fiddles with a outlet that is capable of measuring power consumption... If I remember he does do a little work on the software side of things so that he doesn't have to use the smartphone app provided with the outlet.

u/SufficientYear · 1 pointr/homeautomation

If found this this but it's $200. Not ideal. But they do exist so maybe you can find one cheaper somewhere.


Edit: Also this, which is a smart switch not a plug so you'd have to be comfortable installing it, or paying for someone to install it. Again, not ideal.

u/elmicha · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Then this might be useful. I just found it by searching for wireless outlets on, then selecting one with good reviews, and searching for its name and Raspberry Pi. There's also one of the good transmitters.

u/filthy_flamingo · 2 pointsr/arduino

Similar to what neuromancer_pl said: I have a little arduino-based remote that controls all of my lighting, TV, and A/C unit (obviously not anymore.. but I may extend it with a relay to work with my space heater).

For the lamp controls I use a 433 MHz transmitter to replace the remotes that came with these outlets.

For the TV and AC remote part I have two IR LEDs to replace each respective stock remote (used a IR receiver to discover which encoding to use for each).

Finally a HC05 bluetooth module that lets me talk to the arduino through an android app I made.

u/tacotroll · 1 pointr/electrical

There should be no issues. I was just looking into this myself and I found these guys at Amazon for a pretty good price:

u/j0j053 · 1 pointr/homeassistant

These are on sale today for $7 - does this component work with any wifi outlet or only the amazon one?

Mini Smart Plug Outlet Works with Amazon Alexa Google Assistant IFTTT, No Hub Required, ETL and FCC Listed Wifi Enabled Remote Control Smart Socket by Gosund

u/chipchipchippy · 1 pointr/hometheater

[Leviton 5280] ( I have used these in a number of projects and they are by far the best option in tight spaces.

u/DavidTheMakewright · 1 pointr/homeautomation

This is the one I'm most inclined towards. Was hoping there were others who have tried to control water heaters, HVAC systems or larger appliances with some type of smart switch, and pick their brain a bit.

u/Baham99 · 1 pointr/smarthome

there’s many!

Etekcity Remote Control Outlet Kit Wireless Light Switch for Household Appliances, Unlimited Connections, Up to 100 ft. Range, FCC Certified, ETL Listed, White (Learning Code, 5Rx-2Tx)

Wireless Remote Control Outlet, Kasonic Smart Home Remote Control Multi Purpose Combo Set [3 Electrical Outlets + 1 Remote] Perfect for Household Appliances and Devices; ETL-Listed

DEWENWILS Wireless Wall Control Outlet, Electrical Remote On Off Light Switch for Lamp, No Interference, 15 AMP Heavy Duty, 100' RF Range, Compact Side Plug, White

u/PurelyNicole · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

What I have under my cabinets is generic LED strip lighting plugged into a z-wave outlet.

But really your best bet is to go with another Hue strip for consistency in color and response. Instead of thinking of the rest of it as something you can't use, think about where you can use the rest. Some small-area ideas:

  • Lights that turn on when you open a liquor cabinet.
  • Behind the TV ambient light
  • Lights that turn on in deep cabinets or a pantry on open
  • Down the hallway at night
u/LimpBagel · 1 pointr/hockeygoalies

I run SmartThings throughout the house and wanted to be able to remotely control the gear fan.

I ended up finding the run timer feature was more useful. Now I hang everything up as soon as I get home, hit the button on the outlet, and that triggers the timer.

u/Heffeweizen · 1 pointr/escaperooms

Here's a simple idea that's electrical rather than mechanical...

Buy this electromagnetic lock and this power supply and this remote controlled outlet.

The bare wires of the lock easily click into the green plug of the power supply. Then you plug that into the remote controlled outlet.

The two metal parts of the lock magnetize together when electricity is present, and come apart when there's no electricity. The remote toggles electricity on/off.

So you build a box or use an existing door, and mount the two metal parts of the lock to it to secure it.

Players find the remote elsewhere in your game. Then upon clicking the remote they unlock the electromagnetic lock. For greater effect, install a spring in the box so that the box lid flies open upon clicking the remote!

u/kvelec4326 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I have a few of these installed and they work great! Link

u/NestedNizmo · 2 pointsr/HomeKit

Had this in my save for later list. Sold out now but maybe you can find something like it else where.

u/AmateurSparky · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I'm guessing you're not in the US based on the wire color coding, so any references to the NEC would not apply to you. You should verify everything you're doing with your local electrical code.

>I would assume that pigtailing the yellow wire is still the best option?

Yes, cut the yellow wire in the middle and connect your now pair of yellow wires with the red wire using a properly sized wire nut. You would then put a rocker and blank switch plate over your now single switch.

>There's no switch cover out there that i can replace this switch with, that simply keeps the circuit "always on" is there?

You could do something like this to lock it in the on position if you don't want to mess with the wiring anymore.

u/Royalette · 1 pointr/googlehome

I hear you about the budget. I went with some zap remotes I had around the house and the sonoff RF bridge (standalone is just $10).

You should, in theory, be able to uninstall it. I noticed the google home only takes a snap of the ewelink account. Meaning you can't make updates in the app and have google see them live. You need to unlink the account then relink it for changes to take effect. This btw resets all your google room assignments etc. so each new device added means reassigning and readding all the devices.

If you uninstall you won't be able to use the timers or other feature which are run by the app itself and not google. I said "in theory" because I haven't tried it myself. I use the timers to shut things on and off. I hoping google with update to have a workaround like a device scheduler.

u/edinc90 · 2 pointsr/DIY

Best bet is to get an electrician to install an outlet outside. They have outlet covers specifically for this purpose.

u/furluge · 1 pointr/Vive

I like to use these to manually turn them on and off. If you have an echo or other smart home stuff there are similar voice coms for that.

u/justinb19 · 3 pointsr/HomeKit

I have two Hunter Signal fans and love them. I have the remote "cradles" next to the swithces and use these covers over the switches so nobody turns them off.Switch covers

u/virtueofsilence · 1 pointr/slowcooking

I bought this one Amazon Smart Plug, works with Alexa

But be aware there are others that come in a 4 pack for like 36 bucks

u/dragonx254 · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

Look into "smart lights/outlets".

If you get something like this and plug any light into it, it can be controlled via a smartphone app.

u/ethercartographer · 3 pointsr/HelpMeFind

You could use a smart plug like this:

Initially, you would need to be on their local wi-fi connection, and they yours if their controlling one on your end, to get it set up. Once it's configured you can control it from anywhere using the app on your phone.

u/TheVermonster · 5 pointsr/electrical

I would put a GFCI in the wall where you plan to plug this in. Then, get a standard sized outlet, but one that has the two USB ports and is Tamper resistant. Like

Or you could go for the straight 4x USB. The call is up to you. Having a standard receptical means you can upgrade or switch as your needs change.

Edit, forgot the box. Get a metal, gangable box for use with NM/Romex. You can also get a metal, old work for use with NM/Romex and just take off (or even use) the old work clamps. Sorry I can't link it now. But you'll see why it will work. Just wrap the ground from your extension around the wire, then go to the receptical.

u/zanfar · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Yeah, internet control will cost you.

I've used these around the house with good results. Local remote control only--might work for you.

u/jmintha · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I've used to do the same thing and they worked great. I also had some older ones from years ago that I got working too, although it turned out that they used 315MHz instead of 433MHz, so I got added a 315MHz transmitter and now I can control both groups from the same Pi.

u/b4c0n_l0v3r · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement


Have the 2nd one and worked great to control with a high voltage AC wall unit.

u/tvbuttonmonkey · 1 pointr/homeassistant

There are also other zwave plugs. Attaching a link to a 40a plug. Should give you more than enough head room on the switch.

Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption

u/syzygykb · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

I use one of these for an air compressor ( Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption )

u/chuckyc17 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

Yeah, the tree is controlled by a basic Google home compatible smart plug (this one to be exact )

The TV is controlled by a Chromecast. You just have to make sure the TV has HDMI-CEC enabled, and the Chromecast has to be powered from the wall rather than from the TV.

In my Google Assistant routine I just gave the command "play fireplace on living room TV" and it plays that video. This probably isn't the most foolproof cause it may decide that I mean a different video at some point in the future but 🤷‍♀️

u/masterbond9 · 2 pointsr/electricians

This might help, this brand almost literally helps power NYC

u/Ahnteis · 2 pointsr/DIY

> but they plug in as oppose to being controlled by a switch. We still may install them.

If you want to use them, but don't want to wire (at least for now) you can get some fairly nice looking remote control switches for outlets. (Similar to this although there are many different styles: )

u/bsloss · 1 pointr/Hue

I recommend something like this

u/lunaris1013 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I have two sets of these that I've been very happy with:

u/CarlRJ · 1 pointr/Hue

There are purpose-built switch covers for both trditional and Decora style switches, that attach using the existing (or extended) screws on the wall plate. I've used covers like these in several rooms quite successfully.

u/UndeadCaesar · 2 pointsr/Vive

I did the same except with these, slightly better per outlet cost but I use the other 4 around my house. If you just want them for lighthouses might as well only get two.

u/Dessathan · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I bought these,

Super convenient to tell my Dot to turn on and off my lights.

u/0110010001100010 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

What's your hub? Sonoff stuff is super cheap if your hub can control it:

u/chrisbrl88 · 43 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Correct. That would be the monitor. For actual control functionality, OP would have to look into wiring the receptacle to a smart switch, like this Z-wave. I was under the impression OP just wanted more of a plug-and-play solution. The Z-wave is more involved and allows remote control, but is more of a "power user" kind of thing.

u/sininspira · 2 pointsr/Nest

You've got a ghost living where your camera is mounted.

Jk, I've never seen anything like this on my IQ outdoor. Since it happened to the last one too - maybe check the power outlet itself. Use a multimeter and make sure you're getting correct voltage. Turn off the breaker to the outlet and check the connections or maybe even replace it if it's old. They also sell receptacles with surge built in like this. Power surges or undervolting are just the first things that come to mind if Wifi connection has been ruled out. Did they replace just the camera portion or the power supply puck too?

Speaking of wifi, do you have it on 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz? A lot of people have been having issues with 5Ghz. I'm actually thinking about buying a second access point to run on a different 2.4GHz wifi channel dedicated to my cameras/IOT to take some of the load off my main network.

u/HtownTexans · 2 pointsr/smarthome

key word here was apartment. I wouldn't be doing any electrical work if I was renting. You are just asking for a heap of trouble. I agree that smart switches are way better but for an apartment bulbs are probably the safest bet. Rocker Blocker or Toggle Blocker work if you are worried about guests hitting switches.

u/aspoels · 1 pointr/futurama

Just get one of these they're amazing.

u/thebluehawk · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I don't remember who it was, but someone here was able to hook up one of these:

This way he could set up a schedule using the zwave software so the car would only charge during cheap electricity times. (Scheduled charging is good, but not very flexible. For example, if you tell your car to turn on the heat or a/c it will use wall power regardless of the time, and could use more expensive electricity).

You might (it's your responsibility to verify if that product will meet your needs) be able to hook this up and have it turned off, and you can control it from your phone when you want to use it.

u/shoneysbreakfast · 2 pointsr/Vive

You can just unplug them, use the automatic power option or just leave them running. I personally just use a remote controlled outlet, like this. You only need to shutdown the master basestation and the other will power off automatically.

And you can move them while they are running, there are safeguards and the motors will spin down if necessary.

u/FigBatDiggerNick69 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I know this isn't the answer you're looking for but there are much easier solutions out there

u/adiluxx · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I've been playing with the BOND for a few days and the BOND app has a section for 'Fireplace (beta)' (and other future device support). I had a few of these RF switches laying around the house from when I first started building my smart home (
so I tested it and it actually works! I'm using 2 right now. I have one plugged into a Steam Link and another into a Roku Stick. I teach BOND the on and off commands, and I discover these two devices in the Amazo Alexa app and I can turn these two devices individually on/off using voice. No more reaching behind the tv, or using the individual remote to activate them.

u/GarbageTheClown · 2 pointsr/Vive

These were mentioned in another thread:
Wireless on off switches for power. I got them about a week ago, they work fantastic. Take off headset, grab remote, hit 1 then 2 and walla... they are off.

u/nexusheli · 8 pointsr/HomeImprovement

The leviton outlets are only $19 stateside, we don't need electricians to replace existing outlets (though some people are more comfortable having a professional do it).

That said, the newer 'C' specification tends to be inherently more expensive, so I don't foresee outlets with full 'C' power delivery being that inexpensive.

u/ThePantser · 1 pointr/smarthome

What is this controlling? Outlet or direct wire? If outlet Amazon has tons of them, like this Westek RFK100LC/RFK101LC Wall Mounted Switch and Plug-in Receiver

u/Kryssa · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I have one of these just to keep a timer on a light. Works fine and has given it's value several times over by now -

u/Dog_does_a_jig · 1 pointr/Vive

I got the 5 pack AMAZON LINK

1 - Computer
2 - TV

3 - Breakout Box

4 & 5 Lighthouses.

A bonus is when I turn the TV one on the TV comes on automatically.

u/snarfy · 3 pointsr/arduino

These things are your best bet. Then you just need to control the remote using the arduino, and nothing on your end is exposed to line voltages. You'll be hard pressed to source the parts yourself and build something cheaper than what you can buy pre-made.

u/Knoxie_89 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

This is only splashproof, so you may want to put it in a protected location or in a bigger control box, or go with the GE version.

u/koukimonster91 · 7 pointsr/DIY

nice build, one thing though, get rid of that chinese receptical, its a fire hazard, they werent even bothered to clean up the edges around the "TR" letters in the mold, who knows how there quality control is of the actual electronics. get a Leviton one instead, they come in every colour

u/PM_ME_YOUR_FACES · 4 pointsr/self

Odd request but here you go:

It's really nice because it has a really shallow design so that it doesn't take much horizontal space

u/AnotherMadHatter · 2 pointsr/electronics

Get a remotely controlled electrical outlet. I have one I use for my Christmas tree. Usually good for 30 feet or so.

EDIT: [Here is what I am talking about] (

Hook it up to a plug in buzzer or light/lamp.

EDIT 2: How about a [wireless door chime?] (

u/Bradllez · 2 pointsr/Vive

I am not sure how your setup is, but maybe getting one of these might work?

But I agree that the lighthouses should have a switch.

u/GKrollin · 18 pointsr/AskMen
  1. Fire Extinguisher
  2. Plunger
  3. Bleach (even if you don't use it in the laundry)
  4. A crock pot
  5. A humidifier/dehumidifier as needed.
  6. A screen door for either the front or back door
  7. These:
  8. Tupperware
  9. A good kitchen knife or two (better than getting a cheap set of 12
  10. A grill
u/Aquifel · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

I personally use a hook ( , $50 USD), which works as a wifi to rf bridge allowing you to use Alexa to control very cheap outlets like these:

It's not perfect, I do have to repeat myself occasionally, but it's tremendously more reliable than the wemo switches I have. Those etekcity outlets frequently have coupon codes that will make them a good bit cheaper, but if you only need to control 1-2 outlets, the initial cost of the hook may still make it not very cost effective.

u/ViciousMoth · 1 pointr/Vive

Those seem handy, thanks.

EDIT: Alternatively, I was thinking about something like this (maybe not this exact one) to cut power at the end of the day:

u/pbae · 1 pointr/audioengineering

I've heard of these power strips but I've never used them before. I'd like to try one out.

But in the meantime, I use to use these [Etekcity AC Power remote control] ( to power on/off the speakers I had hooked up to my TV.

u/ba12348 · 2 pointsr/DIY

Not really. Those power strips are built as a unit and can't really be modified without basically starting over from scratch. You could use one of these to control your outlets, but I don't think they will all fit in one power strip.

u/Chadman108 · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

CHEAP OPTION: Find a USB powered speaker you like and is in your budget and just get a cheap 2 port USB wall plug. I wouldn't mess with splitters/adapters when you're talking about power. It won't sound great because you really can't get a whole lot of power through USB. It only runs 5V at 2A which is 10W.

WHAT I DID IN MY KITCHEN: I bought one of these outlets to run 2x 120v plugs and 2x USB plugs. This solves your problem if you're handy. you get the 120v for a nice speaker and USB integrated to run your dot.

BETTER OPTION: Figure out a budget. If you're looking for under $50 I'd get the highest reviewed portable speaker that has a headphone jack on it. Get a 2x usb wall plug and 2 cables that are the same length and a 1' acc cable.

u/lordmycal · 1 pointr/HomeKit

The iDevices switches are also $26 and do energy monitoring as well:

u/not_jimothy · 1 pointr/HomeKit

Are you confusing a two-pole switch for a three way switch? As SophiaSingsTheBlues notes, a double pole/two-pole switch is used to carry 240 V.

OP: I don’t know of anything for HomeKit, but this Z-Wave device, along with Homebridge, might help. You'll see in the reviews and Q&A that people are using it for exactly this purpose, to control pool pumps.

u/wjsdelicious · 3 pointsr/osx

I would set the Mac mini to restart automatically on power failure (available in standard System Prefs) and plug it into one of these iDevice switches (or similar three-prong switches) that’s HomeKit compatible. (I own one myself and it’s worked great on my huge stereo system.)

Then just use HomeKit to turn off and on the Mac mini whenever it hangs. You or your wife can do it. If you have an AppleTV you can do it from anywhere.

u/sicilianthemusical · 1 pointr/cats

When I lived in a wet climate, I put these outlet covers on to ensure the plug stayed dry. Never had a problem with them.

u/Guerilla_Imp · 8 pointsr/DIY

Very nice, could've gone with these outlets tho for more USBness: