Holy crap, I never saw either of the mods you linked (probably a good thing) since I don't have the space to do all that. Good idea to go with the clean out ports. I wish I had considered that. I probably made a bunch of mistakes in mine, but it's a work in progress (that's my excuse anyway). I have everything pretty tight, as in close together. Small drill press, router table / table saw combo ala Incra, disk/belt sander, small Rikon bandsaw in the non-laundry room part of the basement.

I have 9' x 12' wall to wall space to work with so when at the table saw, my HF workbench is less than 2' behind me so I really only need to turn around for that. The router, table saw, sander, and band aw are each on their own 2" PVC drop with blast gates at each. 1st mistake was the 2" PVC. I should have never done less than 3" and wish I had more. I was getting a shitload of dust with the smaller HF DC, but I'm getting much less now.

I bought a WEN air cleaner and love it. I really recommend you consider it. It's really kept the small stuff from getting everywhere. Since that fine dust everywhere was a big issue for the spouse, it was an easily rationalized purchase. Noise is the big issue now. As I said, I have the exhaust ported out a basement window like a dryer vent into a window well. Not optimal, but serviceable. As you can see here, I have the new louder DC under the table where the sander and bandsaw are sitting. I'm looking at 'boxing' it in with something, but not sure what I'll try 1st. I wonder if active noise cancellation would help.

As to auto switch, I thought about it, but everything is so close I can almost reach the remote switched outlet for the DC from anywhere, but it had me looking and the iVac was about all I saw commercially. I did see some DIY breadboard builds though. Thanks for the write up. (*Edit) There seem to be a lot of videos on modding the HF model, but that Rikon impeller is not cheap if you can find one.

A budget of $4000-5000? That's a lot for me.

I'd suggest some Smart Bulbs or Smart Light Switches depending on a few factors.

If your room has a neutral wire or not (most smart switches require it except the Lutron Casetas).

If you want color (Most Smart LightBulbs do).

And if you enough electrical knowledge or not.

The Gosund Light Bulbs are great for the price based on reviews and price.

https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Color-Controlled-Compatible-Assistant-Equivalent/dp/B07G2CM96F/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=gosund&qid=1558588469&s=gateway&sprefix=gosund&sr=8-5

And for Light Switches. The Martin Jerry dimmable switches are great as well, I use them personally, pretty reliable for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Martin-Jerry-SmartLife-Dimming-Assistant/dp/B07FXYSVR1/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=martin+jerry&qid=1558588565&s=gateway&sr=8-6

If you are a homekit user, I don't know what to do for you.

Anyways.
Another thing I'd recommend is smart plugs, find out which devices would turn on automatically or go back to it's plugged state after being plugged in.

My personal recommendation for smart plugs would be the TanTan smart plugs, I also personally use them, found them in the Flea Market, 4 plugs for $10. If you could find them for the same amount and price, it's a go.

https://www.amazon.com/TanTan-Wireless-Required-Anywhere-Upgraded/dp/B071VYFJRL/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=tantan&qid=1558588840&s=gateway&sr=8-5

They even use the same app as the light devices I just mentioned!

Now for thermostats.

It really matters on what smart speaker system you're using.

Ecobee = Alexa compatible

https://www.amazon.com/ecobee-EB-STATE3LT-02-ecobee3-Smart-Thermostat/dp/B06W56TBLN/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=ecobee&qid=1558588938&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Nest = Google Assistant compatible

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/nest-thermostat-e-white/6051016.p?skuId=6051016


If you're a DIY guy...
The Sonoff switch is going to be perfect, it's only $5 at Sonoff's website anyways, but I can't find the buy page, so I'll put an amazon link instead.

https://www.amazon.com/Sonoff-Electrical-Household-Appliances-Compatible/dp/B07BDFDHX9/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sonoff&qid=1558589310&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Last thing, is a smart speaker, there are so many different brands, but I'll just suggest 2 from different Assistant Platforms.

Alexa:

https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Dot-3rd-Gen/dp/B0792K2BK6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=amazon+echo&qid=1558589424&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Google Assistant:

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/google-home-mini-smart-speaker-with-google-assistant-chalk/6082194.p?skuId=6082194

Okay, that's just my long list of unnecessary suggestions, you don't have to take it, it's just the products i'd say to consider.

I'm using cheap 4" Sewer pipe, the thinner lighter pvc piping along with Whye and 45deg elbows. Picked them up at Lowes because they had the brighter white pipe compared to the sun-tinted stuff they had at HD. Since i was simply hanging them from the ceiling, i wanted them to look "nice".


Few things i'm doing which i'm not sure is fully necessary...

1. Once cut and ready to assemble (i went one piece at a time, slowly measuring along the way) i lightly wax the inside of the pipes to keep things flowing nicely. No joinery, just pressed to fit by hand which allows me to expand easily like i did for this 3rd drop. I just wax as far as my arm can reach, not really worrying too much on the longer pipes.
   
2. I have simple plastic blast gates... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VRPQ92
   
3. Remote controlling the DC via https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072F9DGRL
   
4. All of my drops have these quick-connectors.. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AY5ET4 . On the hose side i use their male connector https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009AY5E94
   
5. Since i installed a 4" piping and such, i reduce to 2.5" just after the blast gate/quick-connector... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DSDSY2
   
6. Then extremely flexible 2.5" hose to the dust boot... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M35BE8D
   
7. Lastly into the SuckIt dust boot... https://www.suckitdustboot.com/product-page/suckit-dust-boot-for-shapeoko-3-xl-and-xxl?categoryId=7b98942b-ae43-e2ff-7e50-014f08c9ff6b
   
   1-5 work perfectly with my other tools... miter saw, table saw, router table, etc... Since i don't have it yet, i can't attest to how well all this will work the SO3 (:fingerscrossed:).

There is (as far as I know) no such thing as a smart controlled space heater with ZigBee / Z-Wave / WiFi / Bluetooth built in.

What you want IMHO is a really dumb space heater- one that will turn itself on when power is applied. IE, one with mechanical controls.

Then get a plug-in appliance module. MAKE SURE IT SUPPORTS ENOUGH WATTAGE FOR YOUR HEATER!!! A heater usually uses 1,200-1,500 watts. Do NOT use a dimmable module designed for lighting.

I'm doing this with a Lasko plug-in heater and an old GE Z-Wave plug in appliance module. Works great. In another room I am using an older Aeotec plug-in module. Both are rated to support the 1,500 watts my heaters use. Works great :)

You might try this- https://www.amazon.com/ZigBee-Automation-SmartThings-Assistant-Control/dp/B07BRSMFP8/ it claims to be compatible with Hue and supports 15A current draw (aka the full load an outlet can provide). Connect this with her Hue, plug in a space heater, and you should be all set :)

How about a power strip with built-in overload protection?
Something like this with built-in 15Amp circuit breaker (overload protection) and GFCI (ground/short protection). I think a GFCI is a good idea in van 120v systems since we can't properly ground our inverters.
(And here's the specs for that specific power strip)

I don't see any problems with using an induction cooktop if you can support. I've seen multiple people use them with good results.

Also, this is a really clean mockup! What did you use to make it?


EDIT: I'd also like to point out that there's a difference between surge protected power strips and overload protected power strips. They don't all have both. Also if you wanted, you could get a regular overload protected power strip and use a standalone GFCI adapter.

My first HomeKit product was an iHome SmartPlug. I initially purchased it out of curiosity, and now I can't believe I ever lived without it. I've plugged in my bedroom lamp to it and the convenience is amazing. At night, when I'm ready to go to bed I simply tell Siri "Good night" on my watch and she turns off the lamp. In the morning it turns on automatically about half an hour before I want to wake up, helping me wake up.

If you can think of one situation where having something plugged into HomeKit would be even slightly more convenient, I'd recommend trying out the SmartPlug. It's cheap (The Home Depot near me had them on sale for $30) and it's an easy way to test out HomeKit without committing a lot of money.

Edit: Links

Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/iHome-Control-featuring-Compatibility-ISP5WW4TC/dp/B010ACFEI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452295158&sr=8-1&keywords=IHome+smart+plug

Home Depot: http://www.homedepot.com/p/iHome-SmartPlug-iSP55WWTC/206450167

Not exactly what you’re looking for but a safer solution is something like this.

Leviton 5059 15-Amp, 125 Volt, 3-Wire Round Type Single Receptacle On 4-Inch Cover, Zinc Plated Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000U3I1Z8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SUb4CbJKYMKRX

You won’t have to alter the electric box at all, and you can easily restore the original light.

Clever use of longer mounting screws, washers and nuts and you can fashion a cover to hide the power supply.

What I'm using,

Smartlife devices works with Alexa and Google assistant so no issues there.

Smart Plug TanTan Wi-Fi Wireless Mini Socket Outlet Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control Your Devices from Anywhere, ETL Listed [Upgraded Version] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VYFJRL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XxhBCbN1X5SQ1

This was my first plug, it works well but is bulky, but gets the job done, and I'd much rather the in wall socket but can't because I'm renting. I use it for turning my plant lamps on at sunrise and off at sunrise set.

Smart Power Strip WiFi Smart Cord... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDX6XZ6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is what I'll be buying from now on. For the price you get a lot of bang. Each socket is individually controlled, or they can all be turned on or off together by addressing the strip as a whole. I upgraded from the tantan to this with my tortoise enclosure. It now controls basking, uvb, and plant light individually though I have them on same timers, as well as a space heater which I have triggered on at night if the enclosure hits below 65, the heater will be powered on and heat the room to 70, and shut off.

Hope this helps!

It doesn't help with fact that you have two fixtures to plug in, but just in case it helps (because I had to hunt these down while doing what I think is the the exact same conversion) there exist 4-inch round receptacles, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5059-15-Amp-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B000U3I1Z8

Only provides you with one receptacle, but was definitely the easy way out in my case where the existing fixture had a round box behind it.

EDIT: Just noticed that Amazon suggested a duplex version of the same:

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5042-Duplex-Receptacle-4-Inch/dp/B000HEHCAU/

May I suggest an outlet cover like this: https://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Outlet-Cover-Shortener/dp/B000HKVG9C ? It's harder for little fingers to open because you have to press in on both sides at once. The little plastic plugs for outlets are surprisingly easy for little fingers to pull out.

Watch out for climbing gates and other things now too. It feels like once they get that climbing bug it doesn't stop... (My youngest, almost 3, can climb over our 3ft tall baby gates just using his upper body strength. I've seen him climb up the couch from the back. He's just "freakishly" strong compared to his brothers though.)

TP-Link’s kasa line seems rock solid in my apartment— many switches and plugs etc. HS105 is a simple smart plug (no energy monitoring) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B8W2KHZ/

Anyway there are reasons why you may not want all wifi devices. When I recently did a house, I went for Lutron Caesta for many reasons, which is hub based.

BTW— I think SmartThings is great, but really doesn’t sound like what you need... it would complicate your setup needlessly.

Lastly, an Echo Plus or equiv. has a ZigBee hub inside, otherwise, you may be hard pressed to support your current smart plug.

I’ve got 2 low voltage transformers to power landscape lights. I’d like to control the lighting via HomeKit and I’m wondering what the most effective way to do that might be.

I was thinking of two options, but open to other ideas...

• Buy an outdoor smart plug and set the transformer to “always on” - is this iDevices switch my only option? I was hoping for something less expensive.
  
• Find a HomeKit compatible landscape light controller
  
  Thanks!

These are the plugs (Smart Plug Compatible With Alexa, Echo, Google Home and IFTTT, FREECUBE Smart Socket Remote Control Your Home Appliances from Anywhere 16A 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGSBFNJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KKdTDb0P3HFEW) same exact feature set. The power monitoring was actually closer to actual on these before calibration. The Zoozee were way off.

Here’s the guide I used. You don’t replace your original file with third party, you add the third party as an option. When flashing use third party instead of original.


https://github.com/kueblc/tuya-convert/blob/master/README.md

Yeah. . .it works exactly like you'd think. It stays put and does nothing until you plug it in again. At least, I IMAGINE that's what it would do, since I would never in my life think to try that, and I can't try that for you now. But, since you have one of these, maybe you could try it.

If you have to unplug it, maybe get one of those remote controlled power outlets? At least make it easy on yourself, and more convenient.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N23GRYD/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The desk has presets. Favorite standing setting, favorite sitting setting. Press the button and it goes to the height you set it for. Unplugging it will likely erase the setting every time.

If they're for plug in type lamps I've had good luck with this plug. I've got 2 and they just synch right with my bridge. No dimming option but they come on/off via the app just fine

Smart Plug Socket for Smart Home Automation Compatible with Echo Plus and Standard Bridge Hub Needed for Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant Voice Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BRSMFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q-VyDb8C1SCZN

I just flashed 4 of these smart plugs with Tuya-convert. The Tasmota firmware shows the power monitoring and it integrated easily into home assistant. I didn’t have to open/modify the smart plugs. Just powered them and flashed them over WiFi.


Smart Plug Compatible With Alexa, Echo, Google Home and IFTTT, FREECUBE Smart Socket Remote Control Your Home Appliances from Anywhere 16A 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGSBFNJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Iq8XDbZ5D5WZG

This is interesting, and good information to know, but now I have some follow up questions.

• Do you have a link to the pull chain with with the outlets? Also how hard is it to re-wire one? I've re-weird like 30+ outlets and switches.
  
  
  
• According to law the dumb switch light bulb has to stay dumb? But if I have the (smart) LED light plugged into the new fixture, it can be smart?
  
  
  
• So you made the outlet smart with something like THIS?
  
  
  
  
• Another question, I have a 3 way switch that controls the light bulb on my stairs leading into the basement and a setup that you just talked about (pull chain with fluorescent light). Can I switch out one of the 3 way switches with a Smart 3 way switch? Pull the pull chain to "off" and just let the new smart switch control the Stairs light, and the fluorescent light?
  
  
  
• One more thing, what LED shop lights did you go with?

It takes about an hour for 2000W to increase 6 gallons of water by 100F. I'd predict that you're going to need about 2.5 hours to get to temp.

I've been mashing and brewing with a cobbled together system that includes a 1500W heat stick and 1000W sous vide and some big hop screens that act like brew bags. I actually run the sous vide in the mash and boil (works great until the volume drops and the sous vide propeller starts sucking in air). At those wattages though, it takes awhile to get to the desired temps. Recently I got another heat stick and a pump to recirculate and ran power over from another circuit. I think it'll be a little closer to using propane now.

BTW 2500W is too much for a 15 or 20 amp circuit. I happen to have a 25 amp breaker on the circuit where I brew. And don't forget GFCI:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UOU6OVU/

I put one in my living room for the TV a few years ago. I'm pretty sure I put it in a standard box. Maybe more like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Midlite-MDT4642W-Single-Gang-Decor-Recessed/dp/B002XDQAA6/ref=pd_sbs_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C1HVSTSPE9PSYE5ZTKQE

They also sell outdoor ones: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B003ATXIBG/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C1HVSTSPE9PSYE5ZTKQE

Edit: oops, looks like u/cryo_burned beat me to it.

Yea, my room in my apartment only has a northeast-ish facing window and a northwest-ish facing window, meaning some of my plants that need a lot of light were pretty unhappy for a while. Highly recommend investing in some plant lights. I found some relatively cheap LED grow lights on Amazon the other day for $16 that seem to cover all the necessary wavelengths that plants need. Get some timers (or smart outlets that you can put on a schedule) and BOOM never again is there a cloudy day in your apartment!

And yea just to reiterate what the other guy said, water based on when the plant needs it, not on a set schedule. You generally want to water them very thoroughly and then let the top of the soil dry out about a centimeter to an inch down. You're trying to mimic the plants' natural conditions, which for most plants means that they expect a thorough bout of rain to come and drown everything in water, followed by a dry period of no rain for maybe a week or two (but again, it's nature, so this isn't a set schedule), followed by another thorough bout of rain, and so on. Succulents of course require less water, while some tropical plants really like being a little more moist all the time. Good luck!

Someone else mentioned a zigbee sensor with the Echo Show. I do this (but I only have one). My sensor is actually one of the Lowe's Iris Motion Detectors that I think are discontinued now, but it does motion and temperature. You need something that does zigbee though for my sensor, but I think the sensor cost me like $10 when I bought it.

Another thing you could try is to get an arduino board of some sort and have it report the temperature. For example, I have a LaunchPad XL that can report a temperature of the board. I set it up to report the temperature, and then I smooth it out by taking the average over the past 5 minutes since it isn't very accurate. It works over WiFi but has to be plugged in all the time. I also have a Grove board with a temperature sensor that I haven't set up yet. You could use a raspberry pi or other boards as well. There are a lot of straightforward tutorials available.

Another option you could try is to get an alexa compatible smart thermostat but not connect it to your HVAC. It may still be able to report the temperature and would avoid upsetting your landlord.

Another option is something like the Sonoff TH16 Wifi temperature and humidity sensor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FSHKQ5. It is pretty reasonably priced and is said to work with Alexa out of the box.

If you need something weather proof, rated for outside, then this one is pretty good: https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Outdoor-Switch-Monitoring-Required/dp/B019IJNKCS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536359339&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=idevices+outdoor+switch&psc=1

If you want them to dim, and only have a few lanterns, then this might be good for each lantern: https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Socket-Light-Adapter-Required/dp/B01KP5V292/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536359424&sr=8-3&keywords=idevices+socket

If you plug is indoors, then you can get a Lutron bridge and their dimmable plug

I agree with you that "Yet another Pi" or "Yet another arduino" is getting rather old. I'm also not a fan of using someone else's cloud to control my house.

There is replacement firmware for the Sonoff https://www.amazon.com/Sonoff-Remote-Control-Compatible-Android/dp/B078GDFYTY here https://github.com/arendst/Sonoff-Tasmota My only problem right now with the Sonoff is the low current values of the relays. I like how it has the AC-DC converter and the wifi all in one.

This guy here https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2gyzKcHbYfqoXA5xbyGXtQ has a bunch of videos about this stuff.

I'm pretty old school, about 80 / 20 Insteon in-wall switches and Insteon outlets, being controlled with Misterhouse.

I am looking to expand my system, and I'll be using a combination of ESP8266 and ESP32 to do things like garage door sensors and garage door button pressing. I also intend to use the capacitive switch pins on the ESP32 to keep my end users from turning off the floor lamps.

Yup it is. Its also pretty easy and cheap. Just get a sonoff rf bridge, and some rf switches or plugs.
With the sonoff rf bridge you can just "learn" the rf codes, and combine that with alexa, and now alexa can control the rf plugs/rf switches.

Pro: cheap. very reliable. If internet/wifi is gone, you can still control the plugs with an rf remote.
contra: theyre oneway, so you dont get any information back from the plugs. (like power usage, running time, whatever)

Sonoff rf bridge:
https://www.amazon.com/SONOFF-Wireless-Controllers-Automationb-Compatible/dp/B07CWTT8R1

RF Outlet Plugs (you can get anything that works with 433mhz):
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B01N23GRYD/

But sonoff has also wifi outlet plugs, ao you need no bridge:
https://www.amazon.com/Sonoff-Wireless-control-Compatible-Anywhere/dp/B07DDGVC7B/ref=mp_s_a_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1541506877&sr=8-26&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=sonoff+wifi

And the famous sonoff wifi switches, which you can connect directly to appliances, such as an 3D-Printer. Or a lamp. ;-) Also dont need a bridge.
https://www.amazon.com/Sonoff-Remote-Control-Compatible-Android/dp/B078GDFYTY/

I for myself have like 50 rf plugs and switches at home since ages, and as alexa moved into the home 2 years ago, the sonoff rf bridge moved with alexa into the house, and is since then controlling everything in the house. ;-)

I don't use them myself (since I have the Hook). The Sam's Clubs near me have a 2 pack of the iHome plugs for $50. Amazon is currently flooded with these wifi outlets. They're being listed under many different brand names, but they all look alike and are priced ~$20. I've heard good things about the TP Link plugs too...those are very popular.

We have those outlet covers and love them. We also changed some outlets to the tamper resistant ones. I believe they come in that style you have and an electrician could probably do it in no time if you can't do it yourself. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Tamper-Resistant-Duplex-Outlet-White-10-Pack-M22-T5320-WMP/100684043.
We still have some of the plastic plug ins in our double outlets and we have these covers for things that need to remain plugged in like lamps. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HKVG9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_9_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1520390976&sr=8-9&keywords=outlet+covers&dpPl=1&dpID=41N1fEBvopL&ref=plSrch
I still need a better power strip cover solution because I don't like the ones I've seen online.

I’m about to buy one. I opted out of the Wemo because of some of the feedback I received about them having issues reconnecting, not sure how valid it was but it irked me.


Two people mentioned the following plugs to me, saying positive things, and might try them.

Etekcity WiFi Smart Plug, Voltson Mini Outlet with Energy Monitoring (4-Pack), No Hub Required, ETL Listed, White, Works with Alexa, Google Home and IFTTT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GVPYPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_VMp8BbVKZTJHT

I have this set up with Octoprint Anywhere and IFTTT. I have Octoprint Anywhere set up on my Octoprint (and the app on my phone). You can set up Octoprint Anywhere so that it sends you an email when the print is completed. My printer is plugged into a smart outlet (VeSync). If you get the app IFTTT (stands for If This Then That) you can set it up so that when you get the email (Gmail) from Octoprint Anywhere, it turns the smart outlet off. Works great. It may sound confusing but it’s actually very easy to set up.

These are the outlets I have but I’m guessing IFTTT would work with most brands. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GVPYPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_

Yes! There is not need to cut the strip expept maybe at the end of the strip so it fits inside the shelf. I don’t use L connectors since I found that I don’t like cutting them and when I had tried once previously my whole strip got damaged. Also L connectors won’t work with my strip since these aren’t the waterproof kind that have a large layer of rubber over them, making them easy to Bend and turn. these are the leds I use and these are the WiFi plugs I use. And yes, if you put all the plugs under the same name folder in the Alexa app you can shut them all off with one button.

Use an IEC splitter cable with a clip-on ferrite. The IEC splitter allows you to neatly wire up all of your power supplies from a single cable. You can fix it in place on your pedalboard, so you'll only need to plug in a single power cable to run all of your Pedal Power units. The ferrite will help dissipate RF interference coming from the mains wiring.

While you're at it, get yourself an outlet tester and a GFCI - it could save your life.

Smart Plug Compatible with Alexa Google Assistant IFTTT for Voice Control, Teckin Mini Smart Outlet Wifi Socket with Timer Function, No Hub Required, White FCC ETL Certified https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVST9YN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JL3VDb8NJB308

What I use. Works wonderfully.

I use a hue dimmer switch and this plug. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BRSMFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TRQFDb472ZVFW

The plug shows up as a light on the hue bridge. I just labeled it Outdoor String Lights on the Hue app and google home. And set the hue dimmer switch to control it. Works great. Its much nicer than manually plugging and unplugging the string lights every time.

I'm not sure what kind of home automation you have in your house, so I'll just explain how I solved a similar, but not the same, problem via Apple Homekit. Then you can take the idea and transfer it to whatever automation system you have in your house. What's important is the idea, not the actually implementation. Also, what I'm going to explain is only applicable to #2, when the GFCI trips.

First. I bought a cheap electronic bird chirping ornament from EBay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xelectronic+bird+chirping+christmas+ornament.TRS0&_nkw=electronic+bird+chirping+christmas+ornament&_sacat=0 . I plugged this ornament into an iDevices Homekit switch: https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Switch-Energy-Monitoring-Required/dp/B00U31IO3Q/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510555381&sr=8-1-fkmr0&ppw=fresh&keywords=idevices+indoor+switch . The switch is usually in the off setting.

Then I bought an iDevices outdoor switch: https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Outdoor-Switch-Monitoring-Required/dp/B019IJNKCS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510555465&sr=8-4&keywords=idevices+outdoor+switch and plugged the device I wanted to monitor into this outdoor switch.

I wrote a Apple Homekit trigger that turns on the bird chirp Christmas ornament when it detects the power to the outdoor switch is off. There is another trigger that gets executed when to turn the chirp off when power is restored. So, basically, when the Christmas ornament starts chirping, that tells me that I need to go and check the thing I'm monitoring. I could have turned on a light, but I wanted something audible that I could hear from anyplace in the house.

In my previous house I installed these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011WLTCHW/ref=abs_brd_tag_dp?smid=A2DX7ZINFBHZUN

They're actually meant as baby/kid proofing covers but I installed them along with the insulation gaskets and it worked great!

https://www.amazon.com/iVAC-10031-010-Automated-Vacuum-Switch/dp/B0035YGLZG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522730608&sr=8-1&keywords=vacuum+switch+dust+collection

I love mine too. Here's the link for anyone who is interested.

I just ordered one of these to use for my pool pump. I'm going to try an flash it with tasmota like this procedure as it should have an ESP8266. If it doesn't work and I don't brick it, the stock firmware still is a better solution than the cheap mechanical timer that is there now.

There are a bunch of different types.

These were good for most outlets
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WEKS6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EAr6BbW32C831

These were good for outlets that needed things to stay plugged in, but Lowe's hardware had them for half the price.
Safety 1st Outlet Cover with Cord Shortener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HKVG9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5Cr6BbRJ69PA1

You could get one of these to do it iHome Smart Plug, Wi-Fi, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010ACFEI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WY4EybYNY115N

But honestly, I think you should get a wink hub 2 if you can and use Ethernet instead of wifi.

Look here.

https://www.amazon.com/WiOn-Outdoor-Wireless-Switch-50054/dp/B00ZYLTJ16

Just looks like it's for stuff like pool pumps or fans or other stuff that's not strictly a smart outlet. I've heard of Wion before and they make smart outlets.

Kasa's smart plugs are 2 for $39 currently. I put my outdoor walkway and spot lights on their built in sunrise/sunset timer. Also using one for the Xmas tree (soon).
A bit over your price, but one for you, one for them! :)

Using this strategy, you can probably put this together with off-the-shelf components. These type of relays are common for dust collectors for saws (i.e. turning on a central vacuum whenever the saw is turned on).

Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/BCTINT-iVac-Automated-Vacuum-Switch/dp/B0035YGLZG

They undoubtedly make them for higher amperage saws as well. Looks like OP's machine might be a 20 or 30 amp plug.

Plug the machine into the "saw" socket, plug a lamp with whatever color bulb into the "vacuum" socket, all set.

Here is something to cover up the outlet completely and it will also line up with the panduit and you will see zero cables.

https://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Outlet-Cover-Shortener/dp/B000HKVG9C/ref=sr_1_6_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1496525405&sr=8-6&keywords=outlet%2Bsafety%2Bcovers&th=1

Edit: If you scroll down to reviews and look at customer images, you can see one where it is closed and has the black cable coming straight down. And another image showing the underside where the hole is and how it can line up perfectly with the panduit.

These one's are really cheap and were pretty dang easy to use tuya convert on. Somebody actually posted a coupon for them not too long ago. Came out to about $3.5 a pop

You got it my friend!

Shelving - $90

Shelf Cover - $30

Landscape Fabric - $33

Storage Totes (6 pack) - $50

Local Temp/Humidity Gauges (12 pack) - $23

Incubation Tote Filters - $10

Sterlite Medium Stacking Basket (6 pack) - $15

Humidifier - $26

Standard Fan - Already Owned

Sonoff R2 Wifi Switches (4 pack) - $23

Sonoff TH16 Sensor Switch - $20

1500W Immersion Heater - $45

Standard Cooler w/ Drain - Already Owned

In total, it was a $350 project that could definitely have been done for cheaper, but I wanted to design it in a way that made it as painless as possible to turn my cardboard into mushrooms.

Also, I have an old space heater/fan combo that I intend to use when the temperature starts to drop. I plan to automate it with one of the Sonoff Wifi switches and control it with the Sonoff temp sensor.

These work well for me; ymmv.

Smart Plug TanTan Wi-Fi Mini Socket Smart Outlet, Work with Amazon Alexa and Google Home, No Hub Required, Remote Control your Devices, ETL and FCC Listed 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KYVRN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uv21CbRFG2J7S

I just did this a couple weeks ago. Took it off and put this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZYLTJ16/ . Wifi, not Z Wave. Just downloaded the app and set the timers.

Interesting choice of words though... it's a timer, it's already automated. You set the pins and it turns on and off accordingly, set and forget. You just don't have remote control, which technically is the opposite of automation.

Edit, because I juat saw your other comment about wanting Alexa or Smartthings control. There are ZWave boxes like this. But honestly so far the only reason I've seen you give is to tie the timing to sunset. If that's it I think it may not be worth it for you to not stick with what works, as sunset doesn't change much every day. I replaced mine because the timer stopped working, plus I wanted more complex schedules and I often turn the pump on or off on demand, from out on the deck away from this box.

In the past I had assumed I'd be buying ZWave too, but nowadays I've come to not put that much trust in Smartthings and Zwave. Wifi seems to be the future.

door openers are not cheap.

if you want to open doors that have knobs, you also need to add an electric strike, or electrify the trim... which i've recently learned is what locksmiths call door knobs.

​

here's an opener on amazon, that is about 1/3 the price of a commercial unit.

https://www.amazon.com/Olide-SW100-Electric-Automatic-Operator/dp/B00VJXBCIG/

​

and an electric strike to release w/standard interior knob, this is about 1/3 the price of a commercial unit.

https://www.amazon.com/UHPPOTE-Electric-Strike-Fail-Secure-Control/dp/B00V45GWTI/

​

you will need to provide power for the opener.

depending on the complexity of the controller for the door opener, it may be able to directly control the strike.

​

once you have the opener and the strike, you just need any smart relay to use your phone.

such as, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GDFYTY/.

i don't know anything about the different ecosystems, i'm sure apple homekit has a relay as well.

Tan Tan plugs on Amazon. About $9 each, although there's a four-pack deal for $26 right now. I've used them for a year without a single problem. I currently have 11 of them, and recommend them without hesitation. You're insane if you toss away $22 on a single Wemo plug.

I just bought 8 of these a few weeks ago. Working great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079KYVRN8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the last ones I bought.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KYVRN8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qeXTDbY0N4VDV

I'm pretty sure they're all pretty much the same, just with different "brand name" stickers slapped on.

I've got some others that literally have no brand name at all, but still use the Smart Life app and all work just dandy. Though they all seem to be limited to 2.4ghz WiFi if that's a concern.

I've got a set of these coming today. They use the "Smart Life" app but I would think can be integrated into ST or another app. I don't have much experience with time-based routines but maybe there's a repeating setting or maybe an IFTTT routine could help. At least these are cheap plugs you can use.

I was hoping that product would have a US equivalent on Amazon :/

This one looks reasonably priced with good reviews! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071VYFJRL/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1517766136&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ifttt+smart+plug&dpPl=1&dpID=31tnRyzgD9L&ref=plSrch

ABSOLUTELY NOT. DO NOT DO THIS.

You are talking about making a suicide cord. I repeat: DO. NOT. DO. THIS.

Your best bet is to simply tap the circuit that feeds the light, and run Romex to a new receptacle. If you MUST feed from a live outlet with an extension cord, use the appropriate power inlet receptacle.

Just bought these when they were on sale for $3 and they worked great:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LGSBFNJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

See:

https://www.reddit.com/r/homeassistant/comments/dhtf5e/wifi_smart_plugs_with_energy_monitoring_16a_up_to/

If you are worried about the outlet being exposed, you can get these covers and the outlet will be safe if he pulls the nightlight out. As far as the nightlight's safety, I have no idea :)

I'm looking at this one but really wish there was something a little cheaper.
iDevices Outdoor Switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019IJNKCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i87oybDEBAZ4H

I use a iDevices Outdoor Switch with outdoor globe string lights. It’s beautiful ambiance on my back deck.

> I'd like to run an AC

Does the A/C have a safety plug (Test/Reset)?

If not, add a plug in one from Amazon (or eBay). Typically less than $15. Or you could replace the wall outlet with a GFCI but you have to be careful if it feeds more outlets.

Tower Manufacturing 30439005 3-Wire Portable GFCI

For my daughter's room, we used outlet covers that slide shut on their own. Plugs can become choking hazards if you take one out and leave it in her reach. We still use the plugs if we go traveling or for grandma's house, but for rooms where she's in all the time we have the sliding covers.

We also used an LED night light. If she ever manages to get it out of the wall there's no bulb to break, and the sliding outlet will snap shut - no exposed outlet left behind.

When she first lost the crib she went on a bit of a crazy spree of the room. We had to remove everything she could climb on or play with in order to encourage her to nap. We even had to unscrew the bulbs in the overhead light fixture because she learned how to jump up and turn on the light (but couldn't turn it back off).

The rule now is one stuffed animal in the room at a time. Everything else - books, toys, changing equipment - comes out of the room when we leave for nap or nighttime. We may be easing up on that rule soon - we think she's starting to give up the nap and will be starting to implement "quiet time" (i.e. just don't bother us for an hour, we don't care if you actually sleep or not).

I just want to point out that officially speaking they do not recommend things like bumpers in a bed until a year due to SIDS and suffocation hazards. You might be fine, but officially it's still a no-no for a few more months.

Also, if you have any heavy furniture on the room, make sure it's bolted to the wall or pull on it yourself and make sure it won't tip. If it has drawers, open them all up and pull - you'd be surprised how easily a squat sturdy-seeming dresser can tip when all of the drawers are opened. I was surprised at mine. Get some locks for those drawers. Your kid will attempt to open up the drawers and he will attempt to climb on furniture.

Some food for thought - people tend to think "oh, I'll hear it if she pulls that shelf down," but the scary truth is that if a child pulls down a big piece of furniture a lot of the time the child's body will cushion the fall and you will not hear it. God forbid your child ever does that in the middle of the night while the house is sleeping.

don't have one but it looks like this will do the job:

https://www.amazon.com/Sonoff-Temperature-Humidity-Controller-Appliances/dp/B075FSHKQ5/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1548980463&sr=1-1&keywords=Sonoff+TH16%2BAM2301+Sensor

It sounds like you have a hot-to-chassis fault in your computer's power supply. It is likely that your TV is grounded (either through the plug or via the coax cable) but your computer is not, so when you connect the HDMI current flows from the faulty computer power supply to the TV over the cable.

Can you try connecting a different computer (before replacing the TV) to see if the same problem occurs? If it does not spark with a different computer then you need to replace the power supply in your computer.

If possible, I would also recommend plugging both the TV and computer into the same power strip/surge protector. If the wiring in your house has a hot/ground reversal somewhere then it's possible that you're creating a fault path through the HDMI cable.

If it is indeed a problem with the wiring (i.e. a different computer doesn't fix the issue) then I would highly recommend getting an electrician to come out and assess the situation. There could be a major fire/shock hazard present in the home's wiring.

Finally, I would strongly recommend getting an inline GFCI protector like this one to put before your equipment. It sounds like you do not have working ground at this receptacle, so you there may be significant risk of electric shock. This will provide some protection against it.

Go for these 2 pack of 16A (instead of the 10A linked above) with Power Monitoring for $11.99 - 10% clip coupon - 50% coupon code 3A6NB97H = ~$3 per plug with tax. I bought 5 packs (10 plugs) for $30.87.

And yes the current Tuya-convert works fine on them to get them off the cloud. I'm using ESPHome.

This what I bought.

Sonoff TH16 Wifi Temperature and Humidity Sensor Switch+Si7021 RF Controller for DIY Smart Home,Wireless Remote Control Home Appliances and Work with Amazon Alexa, 1 Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FSHKQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_nvToDb1DQBJFG

I thought it would just plug into the wall and work. It does not. I don’t know what other thing I need to order.

Here you go: iHome Smart Plug, Wi-Fi, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010ACFEI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BzNAybE0Q6C9X - at my local Home Depot they're $29.99 each.

So I would need this

Sonoff TH16 Wifi Temperature and Humidity Sensor Switch+AM2301 RF Controller for DIY Smart Home,Wireless Remote Control Home Appliances and Work with Amazon Alexa, 1 Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FSHKQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uZaZBbF8TQQ5Q

And the probe:

Diymore 5Pcs DS18B20 Waterproof Temperature Sensors Thermistor Temperature Controller Length 1M Thermometer with Probe (1M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JKVRVNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VZaZBbN6WY76M

For your fish and your own safety, you should put the aquarium on a GFCI. You can buy adapters like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Tower-Manufacturing-30439005-3-Wire-Adapter/dp/B00UOU6OVU/ref=pd_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31s4w5u8lnL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160SR160%2C160&refRID=0B0YTWYAT9NVYTY8QP3T

If there is any current leakage into the water due to faulty equipment it will shut off the power.

I'd recommend the iDevices brand outdoor plug over the iHome one. I've used both and had much better results with the first one. My iHome plug would frequently drop it's WiFi connection despite only being 10 feet and one sliding patio door away from an access point. I now have an additional iDevices plug located roughly 40 feet from the house and it never has issues.

Just be aware that while the iDevices plug has two outlets, they cannot be controlled separately.

Per Jakkarth, Bench vice... first thing that came to mind. maybe a bench grinder. Does he have a good shop vac? Dust extractor? Maybe this w/ a shop vac.

I used this one

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS103P2-Required-Google-Assistant/dp/B07B8W2KHZ

You can control it remotely from your phone, setup schedules etc. Very useful.

I think they're really all the same. If you have an outlet or two that you regularly plug and unplug things from and don't want to worry about remembering to replace the little covers every time they also make self-closing outlet covers like these.

Something like this in your ceiling?
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B003ATXIBG/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1468333722&sr=1-13&keywords=Electrical+male+inlet

Thank you for the reply, after doing some research yesterday I came to the same conclusion. I would think that an app or phone could bridge the divide between two smart devices but i guess we aren't there yet.

I ended up going with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072F9DGRL/?coliid=IR8E466WS784J&colid=2NZBR3EQDND0I&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I don't really need the extra ability to control via my phone although it would be nice. Also I wish this thing had a physical button on the outlet itself in-case of remote failure or dead batteries but at that point I can just bypass it and go straight to the wall.

This or any other smart switch, combined with a setting in your bios called "auto-on with power" or w/e and you're golden.

Here’s a dual voltage (120/240/277V) WiOn smart “switch”.

You could definitely put it in a shelf. Get some cord staples to keep her from pulling it down off the shelf. As for the outlet, get a cover like this one. We use it in our son's room.

Whoa. That's scary. Not to hi-jack the thread, but any issues with these?

Teckin smart mini smart outlets. I just needed any-old smart outlets for turning some extra garage lights on and off via my phone when needed. There is a bedroom above the garage- so the thought of a fire is scary.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVST9YN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sylvania lightify outlets work great if you can find them anymore. The new Smart+ ones do not. I found these too but have not tried them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BRSMFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_F3B3Bb60CNZGJ

You could get something like this and have a remote to turn the lights on and off.

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Fosmon-Electrical-Weatherproof-Included/dp/B072F9DGRL

Would something like this work:

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5059-15-Amp-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B000U3I1Z8?tag=viglink20246-20

That seems to already have the outlet. If what I linked will work, do you know if I would need anything else or if the wires all connect to the back of it and I just screw it on?

We have several [Smart Life power plugs] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVST9YN/), they do not require voice recognition -- anyone can say "Hey Google, turn off the kitchen fan" and it will turn off.

You seem to assume other people have had little or no experience with consumer electronics and networking. Perhaps you should rethink that assumption.

19% of Wemo smartswitch purchasers on Amazon give it [one star] (https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Enabled-Google-Assistant-HomeKit/dp/B01NBI0A6R/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wemo&qid=1565543795&s=gateway&sr=8-3#customerReviews) - 1 out of 5 people. Kasa's [one star] (https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS103P2-Required-Google-Assistant/dp/B07B8W2KHZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=kasa&qid=1565542758&s=gateway&sr=8-3#customerReviews) are only 6% of reviewers. That is a major difference that's too big to be accounted for because some people are "vocal" about product problems.

Nor was it a "technical issue with something in the implementation on your premises." Nothing in any environment should be able to cause a Wemo switch to come on at random times each day without being programmed to do so. Nothing in the environment should be able to cause it to just lose it's ability to connect to the router until it's reset.

I've tried these switches in multiple homes, with multiple ISPs and multiple routers. Same flaky issues.

By contrast TP-Link switches in these same environments work perfectly. Wemo products are too unreliable to be sold as consumer devices.

I'm using this lamp cord with this grow light and these smart outlets for my monstera. Granted its a new addition so I dont have time to say if it works but I dont see why it wont. I have it around 2-3 feet above its upper most leaves and fashioned a shade out of black paper my wife had (its VERY bright). The outlets let me set a timer or turn it on and off remotely for whatever reason.

There are a few options. They range from basic wireless plugin switches to full wifi varieties.

Basic: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N23GRYD/ref=dp_prsubs_1

Advanced: https://www.homedepot.com/b/Smart-Home-Smart-Lighting-Smart-Plugs/Z-Wave/N-5yc1vZc7ciZ1z0kb2t

Thanks but I picked up these for $34

I have already purchased this for the GFCI issue. I hadn't thought about the current capacity of the cord though.

At my work we have some nifty recessed receptacles but they seemed a little out of my price range for this project. The cheapest I could find was this but what I did has much more functionality for a similar cost.

Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Assistant-Control-Function-Required-Upgrade/dp/B07FVST9YN/

​

I already have this setup to control some LED light strips in my house but have to use it's app or alexa to control it. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079239CYM/

Also have a EUFY vacuum I haven't looked into yet - but I know it's in Alexa...

You want something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HKVG9C

They come in several styles but that's the one we got. Just be sure to check if you have the old style single screw in the middle outlet plates or the newer "decora" style outlets with two screws above and below.

Log into the Apex dashboard and drag the slider to "off." /s

(Kidding, an Apex would probably be overkill for a tank of that size)

For water changes I have some little remote control plugs that work really, really well. THIS is the one I use.

Okay looking into it some more, I think you’ll be fine daisy-chaining. The bridge plate on a 15A receptacle should be able to handle that.

In home wiring there can be tails wire-nutted in each junction box so one receptacle can be removed without breaking the circuit.

I’m not sure if there would be an issue using stranded wire in the outlet screw terminals. What I would make sure of is that your cord is anchored in some way, so pulling on the extension cord isn’t putting force directly on the screw terminals.

Again, if you search for power inlet receptacle like so , you can avoid that whole male cord issue.

I've used theseon lamps. They work well enough with the stock firmware, but are wifi. They are extremely hackable too.

I would think using a Power Inlet Receptacle would make it legal.

Here’s the switch:

https://www.amazon.com/iVAC-10031-010-Automated-Vacuum-Switch/dp/B0035YGLZG

And if you want to get real high speed:
https://www.amazon.com/iVAC-Pro-Tool-Plus-Sensor/dp/B00PJ2090A

Use any vac you want with this puppy: Automated Vacuum Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YGLZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tTGqDbRH438DS

FWIW, I have a few Tuya plugs, and I've had no issue with the smart life app/integration at all, and I use GH with them several times a day... but, obviously, ymmv.


as a 'cheap' replacement, maybe look at the sonoff wifi switches, but you'll need to do a little snip snip with an electrical cable https://www.amazon.com/Sonoff-Remote-Control-Compatible-Android/dp/B078GDFYTY

I don’t think you’ll need something special, just something that is rated for 15 Amps.
If it’s possible, I’d keep where the extension cable and EVSE connect off the ground, in case of flooding.
If you’re really worried, you could get a GFCI on the outlet that will shut off electricity to the EVSE.

Extension Cable

GFCI

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Voltson-Outlet-Monitoring-Required/dp/B074GVPYPY/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=smart+home+plug&qid=1563231003&s=gateway&sprefix=smart+home&sr=8-13

The plugs I have were $10/each so I guess it's cheaper actually?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS103P2-Required-Google-Assistant/dp/B07B8W2KHZ/

If you wanna run bigger stuff off of them get the 15A ones though: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-HS105P3-Anywhere-Required-Assistant/dp/B07HGSRF1R/

I wanted to put a picture but we have these, i think we had to take the outlet plate off to get the baseplate part on.... but it works for electric plugs. Might work for phone jacks?. https://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Outlet-Cover-Shortener/dp/B000HKVG9C/ref=asc_df_B000HKVG9C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198090943423&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15751411912487128278&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032808&hvtargid=pla-384313761796&psc=1

I have these Etekcity outlets that have a setting for exactly this! You set the timer for the days & times that you’re away and it will turn the lights on and off at random times inside that window.

Hi there, I’m not a tradesman, but could this be the device you are searching for?

Automated Vacuum Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YGLZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8O08BbA4033C6

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Voltson-Outlet-Monitoring-Required/dp/B074GVPYPY/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1541070949&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=smart+plug

4 for $30

How about these 4 for $32

This $25 thing will get you halfway there!

Century Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch for Household Appliances, White (Learning Code, 5Rx-2Tx) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N23GRYD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Zhp2Bb7B3RB99

For WiFi, I would use this WiOn unit, for z-wave, this GE unit

Oh, I didn't realize. Hmm any of these is certified?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00SJ7Z7DQ
https://www.amazon.ca/TRC-90033-Shockshield-Portable-Protection/dp/B000XVG72G/
https://www.amazon.ca/Tower-Manufacturing-30439005-Commercial-Auto-Reset-Grounded/dp/B00UOU6OVU/
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000MM3Z6C

I bought an iDevice timer

That timer is exactly the same one we used to control the pump on an inground pool. It was hardwired to a junction box. I think it may be in a box somewhere. It lasted decades.

Will this do?


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FSHKQ5

An outlet cover https://www.amazon.com/Safety-1st-Outlet-Cover-Shortener/dp/B000HKVG9C

For the price I find that they meet my needs.

https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.amazon.com/Assistant-Control-Function-Required-Upgrade/dp/B07FVST9YN&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwjQv7Hksb_lAhVpc98KHcaGBI0QFjAFegQIChAB&usg=AOvVaw0Mqy82KmdoOBWB2I1u6s48

Any experience with this?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BRSMFP8?pf_rd_p=c2945051-950f-485c-b4df-15aac5223b10&pf_rd_r=BA5FK6XRNCJHYNNT7WPQ

What happens is that you have an exposed electrical shock/short/fire hazard. As an alternative you could wire a short male cable to your workbench, or even install a power inlet: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5278-CWP-Straight-Flanged-Receptacle/dp/B003ATXIBG

Well if your bedside table just plugs into the wall you could get one of these.

http://www.amazon.com/iHome-Smart-Apple-HomeKit-Amazon/dp/B010ACFEI0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1458751940&sr=1-1&keywords=ihome+smart+plug

I would only bother with a switch for a hardwired fixture that I could not get a smart bulb for.

Also if you are unsure of how to replace an outlet, you can buy a GFCI outlet adaptor. Just plug it in.

https://www.amazon.com/Tower-Manufacturing-30439005-3-Wire-Adapter/dp/B00UOU6OVU/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00UOU6OVU&pd_rd_r=GQZ9YCVNQD0NK3CFP5TX&pd_rd_w=lm9kA&pd_rd_wg=vDC22&psc=1&refRID=GQZ9YCVNQD0NK3CFP5TX

Take a look at this, which is the one I have.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YGLZG/

You can use two separate circuits, so you have less likelihood of an overload.

This is the one I picked up prior to powering on my SpaceBucket and I haven't tripped a breaker. $10 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UOU6OVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note, prior to the SpaceBucket, in the place I am currently living (has bad wiring and circuits) and I was tripping breakers.

I never once tripped and i've been running my SpaceBucket(s) for over 2 months now.