Reddit mentions: The best electric plugs

Awesome yes. Trois iles is a fantastic place! I'd say it's the most touristy spot, and this is peak season. In case you didn't know, Trois ile host the 'higher end' distillery with the same name. I also know Josaphine's (Napolean's wife) house is real close by. I decided to skip out on it, since her house was burned down and apparently most historical artifacts went along with that. However, there is a fantastic, scenic view from her garden that apparently looks out to a part of the island and and beaches. With that said, driving around Martinique you'll see numerous stops where you can take similar picturesque photos, which me and my family did.

My particular favorite beach is actually near Trois-Ile, which I believe is called Anse Céron [I'll have to get back to you with the exact name... it might be another black sand beach] Anyways, it's a little bit of a hike to get to, but I'd park my car before getting the the 'actual parking spot' unless you go early. There's a spot right before all the 'actual' parking where you'll see a bunch of cars parked on the right, parallel there. Anyways, since it's a hike it means there aren't quite all the college/party life there, rather people there just truly enjoying the carribean life... relaxing. Please let me know if you're looking for that party life, I could point you to the other direction.

There are also quite a handful towns to look at, for example a famous one with a great beach is a place called Diamon. They have the biggest school in a town with a selection of many food.. Their beach has a spectacular view of the famous named Diamon island due to it being shaped like a Diamond. Also, it has the roughest waves if that's what you like. Apparently my sister told me their pizza place is top notch, though I've had yet to try it. It's the only named pizza joint on the road that's off the main beach.

THINGS TO BE CAREFUL! Martinique is completely on island time... meaning if you order food at a restaurant, expect an hour or so of a wait. First night there, we waited almost 90 minutes for hour food, though the last night was pretty standard 30-45 minutes. Also, since it's a French colony, be weary that you'll need some Euros [lots of places accept CC] and you'll need a power adapter such as this...and lastly almost everything is closed on a Sunday and on afternoon for nappy/lunch time.

Please PM me if you want some more pictures of this beautiful island. Also if you have anymore questions about what to do, I've barely even skimmed it. I'll try to cater as best as I can depending if you're travelling with your family, friends, and/or SO and how long you're staying.

Enjoy the island life!!!

Okay let's start from the beginning- each of your devices needs to be machine-controllable.

Lights- you can use smart bulbs (Hue etc) or you can use lighting controllers (smart light switches, plug-in dimmer modules, etc). Either way you'll either need a network like Z-Wave or Zigbee or Insteon to control them, which will require a USB RF interface. You could use all WiFi devices but I don't recommend this.

TV- that probably means infrared. Some TVs you can control by serial port, other TVs you can control with network traffic. 99% chance infrared is your best bet though.

Fan- if this is a plug-in fan you can use a plug-in switch module. What kind of fan is it?

Xbox- probably via IR.

Voice control- Alexa or Google Home.

Hub- Home Assistant works, HomeSeer costs money but might be easier to set up.

So to break this down, you need to find a way to interface all these devices with your hub. Let's assume you're using HA.

For the lights, you need a primary control technology, that'll be Z-Wave, Zigbee, Insteon, etc. I suggest Z-Wave as it's got better support in both Home Assistant and HomeSeer. That unfortunately rules out Hue bulbs, but it means you can instead get nice Z-Wave smart light switches and use your existing bulbs. Here's a popular one. If you want super controllability check out the HomeSeer branded switches- they'll work fine with Home Assistant, they have several LEDs that you can program to do whatever, you can decouple the switch (so pushing the button doesn't turn on the light but rather sends a Z-Wave command), program double/triple/quadruple tap actions, etc.

Note that if you really really want Hue lights, Home Assistant and HomeSeer both (somewhat) support ZigBee. You can also buy a Hue Bridge, which is basically an Ethernet-Zigbee interface that's Hue-proprietary, and link that to HA or HomeSeer.

Fan- if it's a plug in fan you need a plug-in appliance/switch module. Here's one. If you have a ceiling fan type thing you'll need a ceiling fan switch. Here's one of those (HomeSeer makes one too).

IR (TV, Xbox, etc)- probably BroadLink devices or Global Cache iTach. Note that if you try HomeSeer, Global Cache works, Broadlink I think does not.

Voice commands- How to integrate Alexa and Home Assistant.

Here are my thoughts:

• HomeKit is definitely the correct choice for ease of use and privacy
  
• plugs are easy to install, can be used for a variety of things, do not require any modification of the home, and doesn't introduce confusion with wall light switches. My recommendations are the Satechi Dual Smart Plug (two- smart outlets that don't block an outlet and monitoring) and the VOCOlinc SmartBar (cheaper and doesn't block an outlet, but only one smart outlet)
  
• get smart bulbs if you don't want to mess with wiring. The HUE are probably the best, and the IKEA are probably a more attractive price. Don't get too many color bulbs until you try one. The use of color in bulbs grows old after three days of "coolness". Wi-Fi bulbs will not require a bridge from the manufacturer. HOWEVER, you may want to consider something with bridge (like the HUE or IKEA). The bridge will have better performance due to how HomeKit communications work, and it might be better if you are in an apartment with congested Wi-Fi signals
  
• The Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmeris plugs into your outlet for connecting lamps that you want to dim
  
• If you don't mind wiring, (its so easy to do that you could easily remove them when you move out) I highly recommend the Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Dimmer Switch. Rock solid and fast and easy to install. Its the best for lights because you don't have figure out the physical "switch" problem, and anybody can still use the lights in the apartment without having access to HomeKit.
  
• An AppleTV for your hub
  
  ​
  
  That should get you going!

No problem! Just wanted to also add that since I made this post, I've actually done a little more research into smart home stuff. From my understanding, if you don't have bluetooth built into your receiver, you may actually not need Smart Things if you want to be able to control the outlet at the same time as the music mode.

If you get a wifi controlled smart plug (like this one), Alexa will be able to discover it over wifi without a hub like Smart Things. Once you get Harmony all set up and working with your setup, you can then get a phone app and Alexa skill called Yonomi. It basically discovers all your smart devices and lets you set up custom activities for them in the app, and lets them be discoverable by Alexa through the skill. If you then recreate all your Harmony activities within Yonomi as Yonomi activities (basically by making a new activity called whatever you want within Yonomi, that when invoked, activates the Harmony activity of your choosing), all your Harmony activities will then be treated as devices in the Alexa app.

This means that you can make a group within the Alexa app consisting of your Music Mode activity (the one made in Yonomi that calls the one made in Harmony to turn on the correct devices), as well as your smart plug. Then just name that group Music Mode (or whatever you want to call it). Then you can just say "Alexa, turn on Music Mode" and she'll power on the plug and have Harmony turn on the right stuff. At least this is how it works from what I've seen. Definitely a bit of work, especially if you're planning on making a lot of activities for Harmony, but arguably ultimately worth it since you don't have to drop the extra $100 for a Smart Things hub.

Now, if you plan on getting into the smart home scene down the road, Smart Things opens up a lot of neat things you can do. So if that's the case, it may still be worth the investment to get a Smart Things hub. Then you could get a wifi smart plug, or a plug compatible with smart things (one that works using Z-wave, for example). But hey, you know, just another option.

I have a lot of different Smart outlets being used around the home. It really depends on what your use is going to be.

For a cheap outlet where space is not an issues, these from KMC have worked well for me. They are pretty dependable even in areas with weak WiFi signal and the energy monitoring is nice for things like air filters or fans.

KMC also makes a nice multi outlet plug. I personally use this to control the multiple led light strips at my garage workbench.

For anything 15A, I would say TP-Link is the way to go. These have been great for me, but the newer HS105 does have a better form factor. I have used these for my garage fridge, windows AC unit, and tools at my workbench. There is an energy monitoring variant as well, the HS110

You may see that there are a ton of the cheap round shaped smart plugs on Amazon and other sites. I have found all of these to be almost exactly the same, no matter what company they come from. They work well enough for simple devices like lamps, but they have tended to have issues in anywhere, but perfect WiFi signal areas.

Let me know if you have any questions on this or any other devices. After a few years of upgrades, I am at over 110 smart devices, so I can tell you what not to get...

The link in my initial post shows a picture of the type of box I'm working with for the heater connection, but here and here are two specific pictures which show how I'd like to do its connection (although I'd prefer to not have a cable attached - not sure how to create a safe, waterproof (when plugged in only, obviously) socket connection though.

I've built a wifi-based + tablet HMI controller so the control box is just a waterproof box that I need a way to connect a 120VAC in, 120VAC out, and 3-wire waterproof temperature probe to it safely. I see on your controller that you have recessed male connections so maybe that's what I'm looking for?

Something like this maybe? I could mount it with something like this for safety?

My goal is to make everything "plug and play" where each object doesn't have a wire coming out of it and everything is just "plugged in" when it's time to brew. This will make cleaning easier for me and replacing parts easier in the long run.

Okay since there definitely seems to be some interested in the details of the set up i figured i'd go more into detail,forgive the poor quality photos please.

So first of here are the links to everything I'm using right now:

Polyscience Immersion Circulator

Cheap cooler

Smart Wall Plugs

Temperature Data Logger

So a couple note on these things. The only reason I'm still using the Polyscience is i paid way too much for it back when there weren't many other option and it still works. I'd like to get an Anova eventually. The whole reason for this project was I was trying to see if i could do what the Mellow Sous Vide has promised but not delivered on after waiting forever on my preorder.

This was just a test run and if I decide to cancel my preorder I'd most likely go with This cooler as it seems a lot nicer and still has the side cooler.

To answer in some more detail why I don't go with just an ice bath is honestly, I want to take all the food safety guess work out of this, and to me just hoping that you put enough ice in and that it will last long enough on that given day just doesn't work for me.

Here is a link to some photos of the set up as well as the app i use and a temp chart recorded with the data logger, that i'm using to figure out the time needed to get the cooler to food safe ranges.

I know this is a lengthy post but i hope it helps

Not the manufacturer, just a regular guy who loves gadgets and toys. I've had this thing in my living room, which has a really high ceiling, for years and yes, I genuinely recommend it. It's amazing for setting the mood in a dark room, very cool and soothing. You can even adjust the level of aurora. Would work in a bedroom too if you're into that sort of thing. I have Amazon Echo so I hooked it up with a TP-Link smart plug and now can just say "Alexa, turn on the stars" and it works. Great party trick when friends are over. Also a real panty dropper when you're getting cozy with the ladies. Trust me on this and get one. You won't regret it.

Is your litterbox enclosed? Because a good option if you're of the tinkering type would be to take one of those sewer tubes and attaching it to the top of the enclosure, then running the other end to the nearest window, attaching it to a window fan set to blow outward (towards the great outdoors) and insulating the window part with some foam board to save on the energy bill. The easy way to control the fan would be to unplug and replug it. A better way would be to use a smart outlet adapter to control it with your smart device, and the best option would be to set up a sensor that detects when the box has been used and waits until the cat leaves and turns on the fan until manually turned off/time limit is reached.

edit 1: make sure you use some sort of fencing to cover the hole for the sewer pipe, we don't want cat nuggets :P

Yes, all on/off at same time.
I like Binary Warrior's item in the link they provided. I wanted somewhat of a little box, but that kind of item (strip) will give me additional smart plugs for regular items.
But...a multi charger, plugged into a single smart plug is your suggestion, yes?
A setup like this?
charger:
https://www.amazon.com/RAVPower-Charger-Desktop-Charging-Technology/dp/B00OQ19QYA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526265382&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+multi+charger&dpID=41Oi-vRTv%252BL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

smart plug:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1JVZOE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Looks like the benefit of this setup is that I have more usb ports for more pixel pals.

I don't use this, but wonder if it meets your spec? https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1485319546&sr=8-3&keywords=smart+outlet Wi-fi, no hub required, and if you put "tasker" into the search bar above "Customer Questions and Answers, you see the following response:

Only reason I took off a star is because this doesn't have an ifttt channel, as of yet. I'm sure that will change though. For the techies, it's doable though Android and the tasker app, but those don't don't like to fiddle with apps and code, go with the WeMo switch if you're looking for ifttt.
This does work with my Alexa, and works as advertised. You simply download the app and set a timer, done. This works great for my tomato plants, and I have one controlling a small space heater in my garage. Again, I'd love to automate everything with ifttt, if the temp drops to a certain degree outside, it would turn on the heater, but there are work around like i stated above.
Nice little device for $25

Edit: just realized you want one that does NOT require wi-fi. Sounds like this would not work, sorry!

Hello,

Profitability is always changing when mining. You can use Whattomine.com to check out profitable for specific hardware and electricity rates.

Also if you are planning to mine for a long time I recommend getting a smart plug to help track you kw/h usage more accurately. (Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lzHUBbX0FXV2P)

Some people who live where electricity is expensive find alternative solutions as well. We see many users try to find places where electricity is included with rent. Rural miners using solar panels, or building small hydro electric generators in streams, etc.

You may also find newer hardware is more efficient and uses less electricity. A 960 is powerful but not very efficient.

Lastly there are other reasons to mine besides profitability. If you are at break even costs you are still stacking BTC while providing a service to the networks' of the coins you are mining. Mining not only creates coins as a reward, but verifies transactions and increases the security of the entire network.

Keep a close eye on the profitability.

Thanks #GetThatHoney

Things I'm still working on implimenting:

1. A small OLED screen to display current as well as 5 minute average temperature and humidity. I had this working on the breadboard but I screwed up my screen in my first attempt to move it to a prototyping board.
   
   
   
2. Replace the AM2302 so that I actually have humidity sensing again.
   
   
   
3. Build an automatic roller so that we don't have to open it up to roll the eggs several times a day. The trick to this is either getting a low enough continuous roll speed or else programming it to only turn on a few times a day. I'd prefer continuous rolling, but it needs to be slow enough to only do about 4 full egg turns per 24 hours. That's SUPER SLOW. I'll probably end up just doing intermittent rolling. If anyone has any thoughts/suggestions for this, I would love to hear it. All of my ideas so far seem overly complicated.
   
   -edit- I should also mention that this thing is COMPLETE OVERKILL. It does way more than it needs to and it was way more expensive (although much of the price was in reuseable stuff that I didn't already own like a soldering iron or stuff that left me with lots of leftovers for later projects, like wire) to build than pretty much any commercial incubator you can find on the market, almost all of which can get you near 100% hatch rates if you put in a bit of work to calibrate them. I did this mostly because I really like logging and monitoring data, and no commercial incubator gives you temperature or humidity logging abilities like I can get with the Pi. Also, I had wanted to start learning Python anyways, and I am someone who learns best when I have an explicit goal, so writing the control program worked great for that. Finally, I am using a 3b+ but this thing is simple enough that a pi zero could absolutely run it (probably most arduino boards too but I have no experience with those).
   
   Speaking of, here is the full parts list:
   
   Construction materials for the incubator itself, mostly plywood and insulation board
   Raspberry Pi 3 b+
   MCP9808 temp sensor
   AM2302 temp and humidity sensor
   3 b+ prototype board hat
   100W ceramic heat lamp
   lamp holder/bulb socket
   JBtek 4 Channel DC 5V Relay Module
   Wall plug (this thing, not sure what you are supposed to call it)
   Low Voltage DC Motor Speed Controller
   DC Motors Kit
   
   
   I can provide amazon links to most of those if people want, but the specific ones aren't that important. Which reminds me. Maybe my Google-Fu is weak, but I found surprisingly few options for 120V relay boards designed to work with arduino/raspberry pi. I really didn't need one with four relays but I didn't have a lot of options.
   

3x Northern Lights From Sensi Seeds

1x [Mars Hyrdo] (https://www.amazon.de/MARS-HYDRO-Wachsen-Vollspektrum-Pflanze/dp/B078Y74D67/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1546344239&sr=8-1&keywords=mars%2Bhydro%2B600w%2Bled&th=1)
Pulling 217W from the wall, honestly cant complain with the results so far.
I would have went with a QB if I knew about them earlier on, will switch it out once this one runs out I think.

Avg Temp is 24 degrees or 75,2 fahrenheit - The light is super cool and has two massive fans above it. This entire grow, the temperature was never an issue.

1 x Secret Jardin Hydro Shoot 80 R2.00 80x80x160 cm - Honestly a bit too small for 3 plants, will be running 2 next time around.

2 x Smart Plug - I got these from another site, at a higher price but they have been great. They allow me to see my exact wattage from the wall, my usages over 24hours/7days/1month. You can build in a schedule for your light and intake fan - that's why I got 2. Its all via an app, which has a kill switch built in so if you need to turn the setup off in seconds, you can do that remotely.

1 x AC Infinity Intake Fan + Carbon Filter

1x AC Infinity Multifan

1 x C02 Bag

3 x 5 Gallon Smart Pots (20L)

Nutrients

• Plagron Grow (during veg)
  
  
• Plagron Bloom (during bloom)
  
  
• Plagron Green Sensation (Last 4 weeks of bloom)
  
  
  I have honestly no idea what I'm doing - I can provide an entire list of everything I ended up using if you want :)

Sure, I'll give it a shot:

Amps is a measure of how much electrical current is flowing through a circuit. Generally, the more current going through a wire, the warmer the wire will get - to the point the wire will either soften and break, or hot enough to start a fire directly.

To avoid this, circuits are designed "to code" so that dangerous temperatures are never reached.

15-amp circuits usually use 14-gauge copper wire (might be thicker depending on distance), are protected by 15-amp circuit breakers, and have outlets that look like this.

20-amp circuits usually use 12-gauge (which is actually thicker than 14-guage) copper wire (might be thicker depending on distance), are protected by 20-amp circuit breakers, and have outlets that look like this.

Appliances that require 20 amps use a special plug, with one blade twisted 90 degrees, so that they can't be plugged into 15-amp circuits. 15-amp appliances can be plugged into 20-amp outlets without problems.

If you put a 20-amp outlet on a 15-amp circuit, nothing bad should actually happen. But if someone tried to use an appliance that required 20 amps, they would trip the 15-amp breaker when they weren't expecting to - the shape of the outlet "told" them there was 20 amps available. Better to just use a 15-amp outlet in the first place.

Here's a 15-amp version of the round outlet you're looking at.

Hope that was useful!

Thanks OP. Burnout for the PS2 and PSP have always been my favorite racing game. It just felt much more fun and chaotic. I would love to play a reboot of that series. As for the giveaway, I would like rocket league, but if money is short, then this smart plug for my desk lamp will do. It's so annoying having to reach for the plug. If money is even shorter then you can skip me, thank you. :)

I started by picking up a few of these and connecting them to my Amazon Echo: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Controls-Electronics-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467748762&sr=8-1&keywords=tplink+smart+plug

Super easy to set up and you can ask Alexa to "turn on the TV" or "turn off the lamp". You can also group things together and say "Alexa, turn everything off" which is pretty neat for when you're going to bed. You can use your existing bulbs and it's cheaper (well save for the Echo) then jumping into a Hue starter kit, for example. That said, I do plan to pickup an EcoBee and Hue kit soon now that I have the itch to automate all the things!

hi dave, welcome back to the family! :) i'm glad to hear things are looking up for you!! what are some of your favorite bands?

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i have a super kick ass smart plugon my main WL that i want so i can turn my himalayan salt lamp on and off lol!

I have a Smartthings hub. That talks two home control protocols, called Zigbee and Z-Wave. Many manufacturers make dimmers that use one or the other protocol. There are wall switch-types, and in-line "puck" type fan controllers.

Google finds many...

I'm using TP-Link switched outlets to turn amplifiers on and off. They also have a smaller version, but I got the big ones for $20 each, so went with those. The outlets can be controlled directly by a GH or Amazon Echo, and don't depend on the Smartthings hub.

Search Amazon for wifi switches/fan controllers that say "works with Alexa" for products that don't require a smart home hub. A hub provides some additional flexibility and control methods, but there seems to be a move away from hub-dependent approaches. There are arguments for and against both types of devices. Hubs can offer programmable logic (eg. Turn pitch light on when I arrive home, if the sun has set. If nobody else is home, turn on all amps & play White Stripes really loud,) though using 3rd party tools like IFTTT or Tasker can usually accomplish the same things.

I used to use right around 1900kwh/month, I bought one of these, and I methodically tested every 110 volt appliance in my house to find the power hogs. It took a few months to test everything, but I found some real surprises and was able to adjust our usage to lessen the impact. Now we are averaging 1500kwh/mon.


My biggest surprise was the coffee pot, you would think it only runs for the 15 minutes it takes to make the coffee, but that little warming plate uses almost 400watts the entire 3 hours until the time runs out.



My other surprise was the Dish washer, I expected it to be higher than the coffee pot, especially with heated dry turned on. But a full cycle is only .89 kwh, less than the coffee pot's 1.3kwh


Entertainment center was roughly 2.4kwh/day


Its much easier to cut your costs when you know whats actually costing you. That said at the end of the day HVAC is gonna be your biggest consumer and its harder to measure because you cant just plug it in to a smart plug.

If you're going to go remote outlet and are OK with smart home stuff, I really like these from TP-Link if you're OK with "smart home" type stuff.

I've had some for about a year now and they've worked really nicely for misc. stuff around my (primarily lights).

TP-Link Mini WiFi Smart Plug (Works with the Google Assistant).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1JVZOE/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Remote access: control devices connected to the smart Plug wherever you have internet using the free kasa app on your smartphone. Requires a secured 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi network Connection
Scheduling: schedule the smart Plug to automatically power electronics on and off as needed, like setting lights to come on at dusk or turn off at sunrise
Away mode: turns your devices on and off at different times to give the appearance that someone is home. Usage Tips - Place your Smart Wi-Fi Plug Mini within the range of your Wi-Fi router or access point (approximately 100 feet). Avoid physical obstructions and radio interference in the surrounding area.

I'm thinking that perhaps this was one of the trade-offs to get to market. As technology marches on, things tend to get smaller. I had the same complaint as you but I found smaller outlet switches that you can stack on top of each other on a standard outlet by TP-Link (TP-Link Smart Plug, Wi-Fi, Works with Alexa, Only Occupies one Socket (HS105),Wall-Light, Electronic-Component-switches, 1-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qAT1BbAV1Y4RD). Honestly, now I have a surplus of those things as I've moved to smart power strips (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZGDDQG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_OJT1BbP8K2Y6R). To take it a step further, might even consider these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GB7WFZH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ZLT1Bb49TWG2S).

There is always a solution.

If I understand your question correctly, as long as your truck is parked within WiFi Range you could buy one of these smart plugs, then use IFTTT to set up a trigger using the Weather Underground service in conjunction with the TP-Link Kasa service to create an applet that will turn the outlet on if the temperature drops below a certain limit (in this case 32° f). You could also set up another applet to turn the outlet off if the weather rises above a certain temp or turn it off at a certain time in the morning (when you leave for work for example).

This might sound more difficult to set up than it actually is. Creating a new applet is as simple as tapping a few buttons in an app on your phone and there are even ones that already exist out there to do what you want, all you have to do is turn them on.

You should be able to use any smart WiFi outlet as long as it has IFTTT support. I just suggested the TP-Link one because I have a few and I found they work well.

The writing on the wire is the maximum rating of the wire. Parts of Europe use 240 v as the standard mains voltage while North America and other places use 120 v. The heater was made with the 300 v cable as it could then ship anywhere and the manufacturer put the plug on at the last minute once they knew where it was going to be shipped.

The standard is 120 volts average, but the actual voltage out of the wall varies a little bit. The plug is rated to 125 volts so it doesn't burn out when the voltage drifts a little above 120 v. There are additional safety factors on top the 125 v rating as well.

A 125 volt plug is fine. Just make sure the plug can handle the wattage of the heater. Your heater is a 1500 w device, which is on the upper end of what you will find for a residential device and not all replacement plugs are rated the 1500 watts. Any 125 v 15 amp plug with a ground will work.

This is first listing on amazon. There are bajillion places to get them though.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-515PR-Straight-Blade-Rubber/dp/B000FKBZ7M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1550644370&sr=8-5&keywords=replacement+electrical+plug

I did just this 2 years ago and honestly the new plug is like the day I changed it. The original didn't fit under the plastic cover I installed to protect against rain/snow. I used this model and it was pretty easy to replace.

It's pretty handy, lots of easy to set macros with a Google Home - "Hey Google", turn on the left or right column, the inner or outer columns, the right/left inner/outer column, the plugs. I never found a Phipps hue supported smart plug that you could use with the hue smart switches, and add to the same group as the other lights, for example. I still have access to the physical switch for each case, just in case

Kasa Smart Plug, 2-Outlets by TP-Link - Reliable WiFi Connection, Double the Outlets, Control from Anywhere, No Hub Required, Works with Amazon Alexa Echo & Google Assistant (HS107) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ6W63H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W90rDbSTASRGT

Just getting back to this thread. Holy shit, you are amazing!

A) First time hearing about Ride. Awesome job!
B) Didn't realize the IFTTT support spawned from this thread. Even more awesome.

I appreciate your hard work... Sending some beer money your way :-D You deserve it because this will probably end up saving my life. Or at least prevent a couple broken bones.

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Also, being in the US, I ordered a slightly different smart socket, and also a cheap broken-screen ipod touch so I can use it to cut off the charging while I'm away.

I am very tempted to make a youtube video about this whole thing when I get it set up.

You can do this on the cheap but you'll have to compromise on a few things.

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You'll need a smart plug that does not require a hub. I like the TP-Link smart plug.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Occupies-HS105-Wall-Light-Electronic-Component-switches/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=sr_1_8?crid=JC3FOI5287VF&keywords=tp+link+smart+plug&qid=1550610795&s=gateway&sprefix=tp+link+%2Caps%2C215&sr=8-8

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I only have experience with Android, but you can use Google Assistant on your phone to voice activate the switch. I find that the mic on my S8+ doesn't always hear me correctly so I like using a Google Home Mini better.

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I believe you can do the same thing if you download the Alexa app on your phone.

​

The problem with smart plugs is that you can only control the light with your phone. If the outlet is wired to a light switch, you need to make sure the light switch is always on.

Long warmup time is one of the downsides of HX machines. Twenty minutes is about the minimum.

I've got my Appartamento on a scheduled switch, one of these:

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Occupies-HS105/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496170180&sr=8-2&keywords=tp+link+outlet

$35 has the machine turn on an hour before I wake up and if I'm on the way home and know I want coffee, the internet integration means I can click it on from my phone so it's hot when I get home.

There's some debate on Home Barista on whether you can leave HX machines on that long, and the consensus is mixed. If you're interested in doing so, check the site. I determined that $35 was a fair enough price to not have a 1000+ watt machine running all night.

Lastly, congrats on starting law school. I graduated in 2012. It's a fun time.

I have a mixed environment. I have several z-wave devices because I wanted the aeon multisensors and decided to try the switches while I was at it. I also have 20ish Insteon switches and the usb plm. For switches I would pick Insteon 10/10 times again. When I bought the switches in 4-packs it came out to $37/switch putting it roughly in line with z-wave for price. The difference that sold me was for that price I got instant device feedback on state change instead of waiting for the weird way z-wave has to do it because of patents and them not wanting to license it. I also had a much simpler time setting it all up.

I have owned a few Insteon items including the plm for about 8 years, with the plm finally failing about a year ago. I've read that they used to use crappy capacitors but the new ones are built with better components. So far the new plm is working like a charm. I've also got the old one around to try swapping out capacitors to see if that fixes it. The grand majority of switches I put in about 3 years ago with no issues yet.

For smart plugs I tried some aeon z-wave plugs but eventually settled on https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Wi-Fi-Plug-TP-Link/dp/B0178IC734. You don't need to register it with their site to be able to access data from it locally, it is reliable which the z-wave ones were not, and I could easily load data into influxdb to view in grafana.

I still have yet to try the Insteon water sensors, but for any other sensor type I would go z-wave. price+features make that a no brainer.

As far as the company going anywhere, I met a dev that worked there a year ago and it sounded like they suck at making software for their cloud offering, but their hardware business is still going very strong.

The fan connected to this Smart Plug. There is an app for the Plug that makes it very easy to program. In my mind, much better than a mechanical timer, especially when you are trying different configurations.

The fan works great, however there is one consideration. The plug at the end of the cord is about an inch wide and will not fit through the drain hole. You have 3 options, choose whatever one best matches your skillset.

1. Run the cord out the door, next to the door seal. This will make a small gap in the door seal and you will loose a little humidity.
   
2. Make a the drain hole bigger. Once the plug is through, you will need to seal the hole with a sealant.
   
3. Cut the power cord and splice it back together.

My apartment has pretty terrible lighting and with fall/winter coming on strong in the Boston area, I decided to put together a little home gardening station to help with lighting and movement of the plants for watering. I went into this with the goal of having my setup accommodate most of my small collection of plants and to allow for easy movement without having to mess with the grow lights. In the end, I decided on a cart-based design composed of the following items:

Bror Utility Cart 33 ½” X 21 ⅝” X 34 ⅝” ($99)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-utility-cart-black-pine-plywood-60333850/

Bror Add-on Shelf 21 ⅝” X 6 ¼” X 5 ½” ($10)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-add-on-shelf-black-20402001/

Koppla 3 Outlet Power Strip 19 ¾” ($4.99 for two pack)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/koppla-3-outlet-power-strip-grounded-white-00086428/

2x Hemma Cord Set, Black 15’ 5” ($7.00 each)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/hemma-cord-set-white-10175810/

(IKEA site only has white showing up now, black was available in-store)

2x Luftmassa Lamp Shade 10” ($17.99 each)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/luftmassa-lamp-shade-rounded-70462648/

Kasa Smart WiFi Plug Mini HS105 ($21.75)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1JVZOE/

Relassy 20 Watt Dual Head, Gooseneck, Full Spectrum Grow Lamp ($27.39)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C68N7PC/

2x GE 9 Watt BR30 Balanced Full Spectrum Bulbs ($9.98 each)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NN6SVG6/

4x 3M Command Utility Hooks 3 lbs ($8.99 for nine)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0751RPD3V/

2x Velcro Thin Ties 8” X ½” ($9.70 for 100)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/

Total Cost (pre-tax): $234.76

I own this to control all my lamps. It works great, but I see amazon is starting to pump out their own as well if you want a cheaper option.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Heavy-duty-certified-Assistant-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_1?s=digital-skills&ie=UTF8&qid=1520459871&sr=8-1&keywords=wifi+outlet

As for the garage, I think that's something you'll have to control, like others recommended, with a raspberry pi.

Ok so here is the breakdown of what I am doing and a couple more photos of the UI and videos of it in action.

Here is the configuration.yaml and ui-lovelace.yaml files on Github.

The main components that are currently being used on the front end are:

• TP-Link/Kasa WiFi switches/outlets
  
  • HS100, HS105, HS200, HS210, HS220
    
• TP-Link/Kasa WiFi bulbs
  
  • LB130, LB200, LB230
    
• Ecobee 4 with 4 remote sensors
  
• August Lock and Connect
  
• Automatic
  
• Harmony Hub
  
• Foscam cameras
  
  • C1, R2e, FI9928P, FI9900PR
    
• Abode security system
  
• Darksky forecast
  
• Speedtest
  
  I intend for the UI to be displayed on a few Fire HD8 tablets. One that will be centrally located on the main floor of the house. Two others will be used as nightstand clocks in the master bedroom.
  
  At a high level, all I have done is drawn the floor plan and layouts in Sketch and exported individual assets as pngs and position them within a picture-elements card mostly utilizing image and its state_image. I would basically just plop down the button or icon or whatever with style: "top":50% "left":50%. Once the asset was in the UI I would inspect it via Chrome's dev tools inspector and select the parent container that the style was being set on. I would then manually adjust the top and left percentages until I was satisfied. I would then update ui-lovelace.yaml to include the new values and double check them in the browser.
  
  For the buttons, currently the button background and button text are baked into the image but I intend to change that soon. Basically the indicator light is actually the same size as the whole button its just 95% of it is transparent.
  
  Here are some screen caps (since i just posted photos from my phone last night)
  
  Here are a couple videos of it in action:
  
  
• Flipping a couple switches
  
• Switching between tabs
  
  Thats all I can think of for now to answer the basics... I am more than happy to go deeper into anything anyone has any questions about

It only has five outlets, but I have this one and it is pretty good:

Zooz Z-Wave Plus S2 Power Strip ZEN20 VER. 2.0 with Energy Monitoring and 2 USB Ports, Works with Vera, Wink, SmartThings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HAQHQ5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S8H1Cb1YXH4XX

A smart plug is a wifi enabled plug that will allow you to turn things plugged into it on and off through the internet. An Alexa-enabled smart plug lets you also do it by voice command or Routine with Alexa. Here's an example, though there are many brands and types available.

The Harmony Hub would let you control all your entertainment components that have IR remotes with Alexa though.

I've only been in the trade for 7 months so to be honest I'm not exactly sure. I think you'd need to find out how many amps each light draws, and if it's more than 15 combined then you might wanna start decreasing the number of lights until it's under 15amps, this is the standard ampacity of household receptacles. You might be able to get away with a little over but like I said I don't know a huge amount about this exact application. More people will comment soon with a much better understanding of the concept. Here's a link for a plug head on Amazon, currently on sale. Leviton 515PR 15 Amp 125 Volt, Straight Blade Rubber Plug, NEMA 5-15P, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FKBZ7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b8o5AbHV9APYF

Almost all chargers accept 110-240 V or so now (some only to 220, etc). So just get the Chromebook you want and slap this guy on the charger:

http://www.amazon.com/EU-PLUG-i-Trek-European-Plug-Adapter/dp/B0012S304W/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1382457482&sr=1-4&keywords=europlug+adapter

$4 and you're done. I wouldn't get the HP 11 since the Acer C720 is just the better value and far more powerful (unless you MUST have an ISP screen).

You need to find one that matches your machines electrical needs as mentioned above me.

I use the TP-Link Kasa Smart plug (larger variety) that supports 15A - good enough for my Silvia.


Kasa Smart WiFi Plug by TP-Link - Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Works with Alexa and Google (HS100), white, 1 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apii.6l2DbE5MFNAD

I'm running a TP-Link HS100 and it's been great! It was easy to connect to my wifi, and the mobile app is easy to use. It also retained all settings through a power outage a couple of months ago; as soon as the power returned it turned itself back on.

Next step is to add a IP cam to the tent, so I don't have to stick my head in there so often.

​

​

I have two smart plugs in my house and they're great! Looking to get more of the same, or if there are similar ones I'm open to them as well.

TP-Link HS100 Kasa WiFi Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Works with Alexa Echo & Google Assistant

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I picked up two TP-Link HS100 plugs and two HS110 plugs on sale for $80 combined and love them. The HS100 (same as HS110, but without power monitoring features) is currently $23.95 on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Amazon-Electronics-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734

The control software may not be as powerful as what is available for the WeMo, but it works well for me. It includes remote network control, timers, schedules, etc. They also have native integration with the Echo, so there is no need for IFTTT. On the other hand, if you want to use IFTTT, look elsewhere, because they don't currently support it. The software also doesn't support plug groups, but the Alexa software does, so that solved that problem for me.

Setup was an absolute breeze and they have been rock solid. They also retain their settings when unplugged and moved.

Whatever you buy, it will probably work with most devices that have a "hard" power switch instead of a "soft" switch. Pull cord light switch? Yep, pretty much any of them will work.

Works now.

Plug your kettle into a smart outlet.

"Alexa: Turn on Kettle."

People right now are using smart outlets such as the TP-Link Smart Plug or the WeMo Switch Smart Plug to control lamps, electric fans, Christmas trees, aquariums, etc.

I know its the same cost of a camera essentially, but I got these for my indoor cameras. They work great and also work well with IFTTT.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Connect the cameras to something like Wemo or Tnlink.. I bought this one below with excellent ratings.. better than Wemo...

TP-Link HS100 Kasa WiFi Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Works with Alexa Echo & Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A10.BbRE7P6C2

You can use the app to turn off and on the Ring.. I'm using it on a nest outdoor IQ..

When they're on sale and you can also get a bunch of smart bulbs and outlet switches in the same sale, absolutely. Got a bunch of these and some smart bulbs and it's awesome. Plus I can't tell you how many times I say, "hey google, find my phone" in a week.

Thats a twist lock with the correct c13 end for a computer / bitmain power supply yeah. 14 gauge is nice too... thats what I use from my PDU's to each machine. The 3 prong wont fit the outlet in your picture though, you'll need to rewire it to something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-2620-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B00002NAT9/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AB56ZCHD7BGJW6QN1DGH
Should be a really simple job for any electrician... just need a box, the outlet and a few minutes.
If you switch out the outlet you could also run one of these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tripp-Lite-PDU-Basic-208V-240V-30A-20-Outlet-15-ft-Cord-PDU1230/112826455467?epid=1837218544&hash=item1a44fb15ab:g:Nz4AAOSw2cNakT4K
which will let you run the number of miners that outlet is capable of (30 amp). 30 amps * 80% = 24 usable amps. Each miner runs around 6amps on 240, so 4 s9's safely from the one outlet (through a PDU of course).

I got this one with an echo dot:

TP-Link Smart Plug Mini (1-Pack) -- No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Occupies Only One Socket, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant (HS105) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4efUBbAW41N01

I like the features and its pretty easy to set up.

I haven't tried to hardwire occupancy sensors into my lighting systems. I'm going to be honest: with the explosion of frugal LED illumination, I just don't think that the return on investment is there.

What works better for me are smart outlets that can operate without a hub. Here is one example:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0WuOxbN0FM169

Their designs offer quite a lot of control. You can often find such products on sale across the 'Net; don't pay list price.

More of them: http://www.postscapes.com/smart-outlets/

And if you ever do decide to purchase a hub, many of them will also integrate into your system.

At the moment, even the TP-Link Smart Plug is $25 on Amazon. That's a great deal. I have a couple myself and have never had any issues.

EDIT: £24 on UK Amazon also, by the way.

1. Buy this plug- https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002NAT9 (have electrician swap the outlet)
   
   
2. Get a PDU- I use this one . https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046JS1ES (buy the used ones for ~$315 or so)
   
   
3. Snag a few of these cables to run from PDU to PSU's - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ABO7PA
   
   
   The PDU is 30amp, but good luck finding a 50amp PDU. You can run ~6ish mining rigs off of this setup (6 GPU per rig)

Anyone tried the Satechi Dual Smart Outlet with Real-Time Power Monitoring?

It’s a little bit expensive before today’s 25% off coupon, but it otherwise seems to have a lot going for it.

• provides two outlets
  
• appears to have individual control over each outlet
  
• appears to have individual physical controls for each outlet (on top)
  
• does not block neighboring source outlet, so can install/stack two (likely blocking the bottom smart outlet’s physical buttons)
  
• has energy monitoring
  
  Its non-sale price is in the same range as some sale prices I’ve seen for the iDevices IDEV0010. I like the IDEV0010 but it does require replacing your in-wall outlet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/

$29.99 is pretty much the standard price, however, as with anything on Amazon, that price varies widely at times. I use camelcamelcamel.com to track a number of items, including these, and pick them up a couple at a time whenever the price drops to $22 or lower. For Cyber Monday, you could get one on sale by ordering through Alexa, and that deal was posted in this sub. Also watch the price on the 2-pack, sometimes that's a better deal per unit.

They've been consistent performers for me, and one nice feature is that they remember their settings through power outages. Their biggest annoyance is their size; you pretty much lose an entire double outlet unless you plug them into a short extension cord or a power strip. They also don't link to IFTTT, which I know is important to some people.

The "wet noodle and retriever" is perfect for this stuff. This has saved me so much work and cussing and yelling.

https://www.amazon.com/LABOR-SAVING-DEVICES-Noodle-Retriever/dp/B00009WE0H/

Don't use the chain to pull the wire. Use it to pull a pull string in which THEN does the wire pull. The chain is meant to be very light and flexible so it doesn't get hung up while being retrieved.

Is the pump plugged into an outlet? If so, why not get a zwave power switch that reports how many amps are being drawn. https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Power-Switch-ZEN15-Humidifiers/dp/B07578W7KY/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=zwave+cord&qid=1557887622&s=gateway&sr=8-2

You'd also need a zwave hub if you don't have one. Personally think it's good to keep your smart home tech separate from your security tech.

great thanks, is this the one? https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Assistant-HS105/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542196857&sr=8-5&keywords=Tp+link

Smart plugs/switches are very overpriced in Canada. That said, you will see regular sales on both TP-Link and Wemo.

Having tried both, TP-Link is far better and more refined than Wemo.

What I recommend is using Camelcamelcamel to setup an alert for the TP-Link smartplug mini, as they drop to $25 cad on the regular.

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Assistant-Anywhere-HS105/dp/B01K1JVZOE

Seems like the lesson there is to get a high quality receptacle designed for multiple insertions. The first thread recommends the Hubbell HBL9450A, which is pretty pricey. I find it hard to believe a Leviton one would be fine since that is commonly seen at RV sites.

Also proper installation/wiring is key. All connections must be good so nothing gets hot, and cables should be of the proper thickness for the current drawn (6AWG in this case).

Also a of grease or dust getting onto the plug as that can reduce the contact area and cause heat.

(And amps can equate to heat if wiring is inadequate and thus overloaded.)

Since you say "outlet", perhaps a z-wave on/off module with load sensing would work for this, but I'd be concerned that it could turn off power to the pump (maybe get one with a relay, and jumper the output to always on?)

You could use a current transformer to detect the power drawn by the pump in a non-intrusive manner, but most such products are kind of expensive unless you build your own. These are especially useful for hardwired devices.

Personally, I bit the bullet and bought a Multi-CT monitoring solution for $$$ (TED Pro Home)

What country are you in? If you have a scriptable hub, I think you can do this with relative ease.

You'll need switchable outlets with power reporting functionality and enough current handling to power the heater or microwave individually. https://smile.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Power-Switch-ZEN15-Humidifiers/dp/B07578W7KY/ something like this may work if you're in the USA and have a z-wave hub.

You would have to create a script/automation that checks the reported power consumption from the microwave, and if microwave wattage > say 100 watts, turn off the heater. Add a second automation that turns the heater back on when microwave wattage drops below 50 watts for 1 minute.

Note: The sensing and controlling logic for this will take a few seconds to trigger. I'm saying this will work because you've said the breaker will pop "eventually". If the breaker pops in under 30 seconds, I'd say you're out of luck without rewiring the circuit or building an uninsured DIY device that would cause more problems than solutions.

There's also smart outlets like this one that give you better control on when you have the device on or off.

You can always just install a new outlet yourself. Go turn it off at the breaker, disconnect the old outlet, install a nice new NEMA 14-50R. You can check the breaker to see what the amperes are and down regulate your car to match that. You could have an electrician come out and update your break if it isn't 50+ amps, or you could do that yourself after flipping the mains switch.

All up to you and your comfort level with electricity. Just know, don't play games with it. Either be confident based on sound knowledge or let someone else handle it.

EDIT: This is what I installed in my garage: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-279-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B00009W3AA

Oh, wow. He's right. You can repair it yourself. The cord will just be 3 inches shorter. Home Depot or Amazon will have replacement plugs. Should cost less than $10. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Straight-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding/dp/B000FPAN84/

depends on the wattage of the lamps. most circuits are 15a so if they're not going to be on for 3 hours or more 1800 watts Max if they are going to be on for more than 3 then 1440 watts Max.

Just buy a 5-15 plug which is a standard 15 amp plug. I linked a Hubbell which is the best you can get and is easier to put multiple cables into.

Since you specifically mention Z-wave, I'm going to assume you will be using a hub. I know that at least with Wink, you can set a robot to turn on/off the lamp along with the main switch.

If you want these to be able to function independently, from the same switch, it would have to be a HomeSeer as they are the only manufacturer that does this (and they own the patent on that technology (AFAIK)

Other options include:

Wink Relay - (although it's probably more than a HomeSeer switch) you would at least get a cool display.. and 2 "smart buttons" that you can program to control any shortcut that you wanted... and also an intercom if you installed a second one.


Echo/Dot/Google Home + an external smart plug - TP Link will pair with either of those without requiring an additional hub. The lamp would be voice controlled.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Assistant-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511199240&sr=8-3&keywords=tp-link+smart+plug



EDIT

You could also replace the bulbs in the lamp with zigbee bulbs - Either paired directly to a hub, Hue - or the Echo Plus.

Get a electric timer like TP-Link Smart Plug (hs100) and setup a schedule to turn on and off automatically. Also, you can remotely turn on/off any device connected to it.
If you have Amazon Echo or Google Assistant, you can use voice commends to turn on/off as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.kOczb5S6405V

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0178IC734/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466964540&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=smart+plug&dpPl=1&dpID=31D9FOxUODL&ref=plSrch

I have a couple, cheep, work great, good app, echo compatible.

I have a couple of these zigbee Peanut Smart Plugs and they work well with HA.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0178IC734/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482414964&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Tp+link+alexa&dpPl=1&dpID=31D9FOxUODL&ref=plSrch

Something like that would work.

You'll only have BASIC control of whatever is plugged in. Turn it on or turn it off that's it. With a "real" hub you'll be able to schedule and connect different things together.

Example, with the hub and switch that I mentioned before you can put the switch on your porch lights. Lights on at sunset, off at 10pm. If you are not home until sometime after 10 the porch light will stay on until you arrive. Put the light in an entry way to do the same. You can add a motion sensor (~$30 monoprice) and have the light turn on and off with voice (cool factor 8), switch (cool factor 2), timer (cool factor 4) or occupancy (cool factor 10).

The Echo might be the part that most people interact with the hub is the thing that really does all the cool stuff. As far as HA stuff goes the Echo is just another switch.

I have looked at some WiFi plugs on amazon for around $10 that will integrate with IFTTT and do what I need. I might go that route but wanted to see if any plugs in that general price range ($10-20) could be added to the abode system directly. IFTTT, while pretty solid, does have periodic lags in activation.

Securifi Peanut Smart Plug
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TC9NC82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mhEBCbMV540DK

Saw this mentioned in the past. Anyone using this or something similar?

It's super easy, you need a replacement plug not unlike this one, wire cutters, and wire strippers; and wire the plug according to this diagram.

What's great about OP's new pot is it's mechanically controlled so you could use a regular smart plug to control it from your phone.

For the price, it seems like I'm better off just getting something like this Zooz 110V plug and modifying the ends so that it's hard wired instead of plugged in. https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Power-Switch-ZEN15-Humidifiers/dp/B07578W7KY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2HXRD0N5K12PC&keywords=zooz+zwave+switch&qid=1565629021&s=gateway&sprefix=zooz+%2Caps%2C147&sr=8-5

I would definitely try to pop the access hole on the existing box and use a wet noodle to fish the wire
http://www.amazon.com/LABOR-SAVING-DEVICES-Noodle-Retriever/dp/B00009WE0H/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377228282&sr=8-1&keywords=wet+noodle

chain drops in from the top, magnet tool through the box, pull the chain, attach cat5 from pull box, pull up into attic. If you're lucky you can chase through the same hole as the coax.

I used the same relay as /u/upnorth77 https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1503427639&sr=8-10&keywords=dry+contact+relay+120v and a TP Link smart switch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . Pretty simple to hook up if you have a switch that turns your gas fireplace on/off.

With respect I asked you to show me how these were certified as you claim. You did nothing of the sort. The best you showed is that these have special nylon bodies to prevent breakage of the plug body itself which says nothing about the quality of the wiring or it's ability to prevent fire or wiring disasters. Take a look at this:

Leviton listed as industrial for $8.65
Leviton Specs

Nylon body, Industrial Grade, 10 year warranty

You exactly proved my point. People take something out of context (in this case the example part number Tesla uses in their documentation) , start circulating it as "fact" on the internet then justify paying far more than they need then needlessly argue the point without any real data scaring people away from useful solutions. =(

Not sure what the needs of the specific machine are... but something like this might work.
http://www.amazon.com/Prime-PS010608-8-Feet-Replacement-Supply/dp/B0022NH7G8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416936558&sr=8-3&keywords=replacement+power+cord

However I might not be so willing to plug it right in unless you have some idea of what and how to fix these units. I know from some things I've read they can be a little temperamental and require some basic maintenance/care/lubrication.

They also do make these as well, and you can get them from just about any home center
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Straight-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding/dp/B000FPAN84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416936680&sr=8-1&keywords=replacement+plug&pebp=1416936666278

NEMA 14-50 is one type of plug commonly used for EV's, rated up to 50 amps. Looks like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-279-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B00009W3AA/ref=asc_df_B00009W3AA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198089608681&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16570288418637110563&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032168&hvtargid=pla-357917644205&psc=1

There are other 240 V plug types too. For example, here's a 30-amp rated variety:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Utilitech-30-Amp-125-250-Volt-Black-Indoor-Round-Wall-Dryer-Power-Outlet/3775477?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-RoughPlumbingElectrical-_-WiringDevices-_-3775477:Utilitech&CAWELAID=&kpid=3775477&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=2842&k_clickID=1738a1cb-ecda-4ae2-ab8c-92e4d9e66678&gclid=CjwKCAjw0oveBRAmEiwAzf6_rMEamS_g0FUQVn0Ab7_8o_9ioCAqVKn0_PeesKxkZNWaTW5bjbFJzhoCAUoQAvD_BwE

​

You'll definitely need to lug the cable around in your car, unless you can leave it at work. But as \u\ChalupaCabre mentioned, there are some fairly cheap ones you can buy, such that you'll have two.

Thanks for the input. Like this switch and this outlet?

I like the combination of a wifi switch:
TP-LINK Smart Plug, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere (HS100), Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NCwmyb931C8ER

with a remote camera:
D-Link Day & Night Wi-Fi Camera with Remote Viewing (DCS-932L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P8K24W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3EwmybF52B1TJ

Then with your phone you can water... or set a schedule.

I got recommended the peanut from this sub and it's been perfect. https://www.amazon.com/Securifi-compatible-Remotely-Monitor-Appliances/dp/B00TC9NC82/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=peanut+plug&qid=1573355600&sr=8-1

If there is an on/off switch on the coffee pot that actually switches it on and off. And it's not a spring-loaded toggle. In other words, as soon as it has power it comes on:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07N3CK3MM/?coliid=IUD48VO2ALRXA&colid=2OTHI4Q5DKXP3&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

or

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ6W63H/?coliid=IW9WF1WA6CRX8&colid=2OTHI4Q5DKXP3&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Otherwise, SwitchBot is the only thing available now.

Of course, if you're feeling brave, open up the coffee maker and wire it to be 'always on', bypassing it's internal switch.

> what SmartThings products do I need?

None.

Want a switched outlet? Get a Peanut Plug for $15.

Want a dimmer switch? Get a Zooz Dimmer Switch for $28.

In almost every case, there are alternatives that are much less expensive than Smartthings products. Generally, I buy everything possible from TheSmartestHouse.com because they take the time to find/provide custom device handlers for each product if that product's features can be enhanced or increased with a custom device handler. Just scroll down on each product's page to the "Works With" list. If the device will benefit from a custom device handler, it'll be linked in the SmartThings line.

Yes, SmartThings could certainly do this... personally, I have a timer set up for a heater in my bathroom. Once I turn on the heater, the timer turns it back off after 45 minutes.

However, I'm not sure you NEED SmartThings to accomplish this... I think you probably need to just purchase a smart plug or smart bulb that is compatible with Stringify. It looks like the TP-Link Smart Plug is compatible, or if you just want to buy a lamp, the TP-Link LB100 is listed on Stringify's website.

The nice thing about doing a lamp is that you get dimming, so you can have it slowly dim up in the morning when the alarm goes off, or dim it to a low level if you need to get up in the middle of the night.

Personally, I've never used stringify, but looking at some of their flow examples, I see no reason it can't do exactly what you're looking for with the purchase of compatible equipment!

I use these zigbee plugs with Hubitat. They're relatively inexpensive and work very well as repeaters in a zigbee mesh.

• Securifi Peanut Smart Plug. $14.99 ea.
  
• Ikea Tradfi Outlet. $9.99 ea.
  
  Both work really well with Hubitat.
  
  Edit - I also jumped from Wink to Hubitat. You will like the switch! I had some iHome plugs as well, but I gave those away more than a year ago because iHome's cloud was never particularly reliable for me.

Recently got a Peanut plug from Amazon that works great with ZHA. Only $15 US. https://www.amazon.com/Securifi-compatible-Remotely-Monitor-Appliances/dp/B00TC9NC82/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=peanut+plug&qid=1558202801&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DQM4ZC2/

 

I use the above smart plug/wall monitor. I can cycle it on/off over the internet with an app on my phone. I've also changed the BIOS setting on my miner's motherboard to turn the computer on when it detects power has returned after an outage. There are a lot of products like it so take your pick. But be careful of how much power you put through them, most are only rated for 15amps @120v even though 20amp 120V circuits are common in houses.

"mberry" the taste buds changing candies https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LXYA5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2BfEybQAZ1ZJJ

Microwave Notebook (pretty neat tbh)
Rocketbook Wave Smart Notebook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GU6TINM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nGfEyb46S2YX7

"Smartplug" (get one of these and you would never have to get up from your bed to turn off the lights)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.HfEyb7FFXBK2

I use these and they are excellent.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077RVKYR6/ref=crt_ewc_img_oth_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3NG14OPL35XMM

I coupled them with these to plug into existing sockets.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DN6QX2/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I control all of mine with the switch on the wall, if I wanted to control them individually you could put these (or similar) on each set to individually control them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the TP Link ones (this) but there are several brands. I have one regular and one energy monitoring. Just make sure it can do 15A if you’re going to use it with an AC.

So far i think i'm going to order the TP-Link hs100.

It's not exactly API friendly, but the commands it accepts have been captured and are not that complicated - just fire a TCP request with a small pre-set payload and it should be good to go.

As long as TP-Link doesn't change the API this should be fine for most needs:

Example script: https://github.com/ggeorgovassilis/linuxscripts/blob/master/tp-link-hs100-smartplug/hs100.sh

This is one is very popular, it's made by Zooz.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=27481


Also made by Zooz for things like refrigerators dishwashers Etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07578W7KY/

Edit: just realized you said receptacles

I use this:


https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Occupies-HS105-Wall-Light-Electronic-Component-switches/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=pd_day0_hl_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01K1JVZOE&pd_rd_r=70c0e254-2bfd-11e9-a095-811ee4313434&pd_rd_w=gt1SW&pd_rd_wg=WCmCP&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=PWXJYVYD6DGP54VABKHN&psc=1&refRID=PWXJYVYD6DGP54VABKHN


You can use the Kasa app to set up a schedule. You can change the schedule or manually turn your lights (or whatever is plugged into it) on/off manually from anywhere. This is my second grow using these smart switches to control both fans and lights and they have worked flawlessly. You can also get a 2 pack on Amazon for ~$35.


​

If you want to splurge for the best.
Hubbell HBL5266C

In addition to normal household plugs, you can plug in thes slightly higher rated 20 amp plugs:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5366-CA-Industrial-Grounding-Black-White/dp/B0026H1C9I
Ps. GFCI means ground fault circuit interrupter. It helps prevent electrocution by means of a much more sensitive breaker (than the one at the breaker box) built in. Its mainly used where water may be present like bathrooms, kitchens, pools etc.

The set button and test button are for checking to see if little built in breaker is working. The light should be green if there is electricity flowing.

This particular one also has plastic gates built in - to make it harder to push the plug in and harder to put foreign objects in there. Mainly this is to help protect children from accidental electrocution.

I have these TP-Link smart plug

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Assistant-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1511208971&sr=1-5&keywords=tp-link+smart+plug

They work an absolute treat with Google Assistant.

I just use a smart outlet. I have TP-Link one that is rated for 15A, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_eNk4DbR27T919

I use these Zooz z-wave power metered switches and WebCore to send notifications for my washer and dryer being done. Works perfectly.

Don't over-complicate things.

corecomps' had a post describing how to do it your self.

I am in the middle of finishing my basement, so I went ahead and added a NEMA 14-50 outlet to my garage. Took me 4 hours ('cause I'm slow, like to do things correctly, and I put a piece of scrap 2x4 behind the box to add support) and about $55 in materials:

• $8.89 NEMA 14-50 Industrial Grade Outlet
  
• $6.23 Wall plate
  
• $35.53 15 feet of 6-3 AWG NM-B wire
  
• A few bucks for a 2-gang 4"x4"x2.125" box and some 3/4" clamps for the box and electrical panel (I had left over boxes/clamps from my basement finish).
  
  For those curious, a permit for adding an outlet in my city is $1.00, though I am finishing my entire basement, so I paid $50 as a flat fee for remodel/addition work. Had to take a 2 hour 'homeowner electrical exam' on which I got over 100%.
  

Just get a smart plug, it connects to wifi. name it "fan" and plug your fan into it. "Alexa turn on the fan".

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Occupies-HS105/dp/B01K1JVZOE

I have a wemo plug myself.

Yeah, I bought https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Control-Devices-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481685194&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=tp+link+alexa&psc=1 this with it. I just connected my printer and managed to make it function. Thank you!

When you say "like the kill-a-watt" are you talking about with a screen? If so I'm not aware of any. If you just want to report to home assistant there are tons of options. A few off the top of my head:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15654

https://smile.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Smart-ZEN06-Charging-Ports/dp/B01MTRZXHF/

https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW096-Switch/dp/B00VQISOCG/

Thanks. A y idea what the difference is between this one:

TP-Link Smart Plug Mini (1-Pack) -- No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Occupies Only One Socket, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant (HS105) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ArH8BbBSSHS63

And this one:


TP-Link Smart Plug (1-Pack) -- No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant (HS100) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4rH8BbM5AM3S2

Cheap usually doesn't mean reliable-drama free performance. For that I'd recommend TP-Link Smart Plugs

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Occupies-HS105-Wall-Light-Electronic-Component-switches/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tp-link+smart+plug&qid=1572647565&sr=8-7

Some of the less intuitive acccessories I've found helpful:

• Foam/Soft padding for under printer. This helps reduce the vibrations from the printer traveling into the surface it's sitting on and producing additional noise (though the i3 MK3 is supposed to be remarkably quiet.) I use a rubber paver, but I've seen foam mats or other soft-cell products.
  
• If your table is shaky, a paving stone can also help eliminate wobble and vibrations
  
• I didn't plan to have an enclosure since I wasn't interested in ABS, but even my PLA prints had a little bit of warping and pulling off the bed. Adding a casual enclosure made of plastic sheeting did wonders. (Not my writeup, but same idea. I used 6-mil leftover from work for durability.)
  
• I wasn't originally comfortable leaving the printer home alone printing, but even a moderately-size print takes most of a day, so I added a Wyze IP Camera, a TP-Link Internet-Controlled Outlet, and a smoke-detector to my setup. Now I can monitor the printer from anywhere, and at the very least kill power if it looks like things are going awry. An Octoprint setup would be more snazzy.
  
  Here's the tools I use most frequently in 3d printing and assembly - I suspect you'll have most of these from modelling work:
  
  
• Digital Calipers for measuring existing objects and calibrating printer.
  
• Putty Knife for removing prints from bed.
  
• Metric Hex Key Set with Ball Ends for making adjustments to printer/adding parts
  
• #1/#2 Philips head screwdriver
  
• Precision Philip Screwdriver
  
• Assorted M3 Hardware. (I standardized on M3, you could choose another size or diversify). I recommend some heat-fit threaded inserts at any size.
  
• Cheapie Rotary Tool with cutoff wheel, sanding/buffing attachments, engraving bit.
  
• Needle Files
  
• Sandpaper - 120, 220, 400 grit.
  
• Superglue/CA Glue
  
• Needle-nose Pliers, nice and fine tip
  
• Flush Cutters, I'm partial to the actual Hakkos.

Below are most of parts that are needed for the kettle and electronics controller. I don't think I forgot anything. You would obviously need to be a little handy and have some tools like files, a drill, etc.

--

Let me know if you have any other questions!

--



Item| Count | Cost | Link
---|---|----|----
Kettle - SS Brewtech 15 gal|1|$239.00|https://www.homebrewsupply.com/ss-brewtech-15-gallon-stainless-steel-kettle.html
Weldless 1.5" TC|1|$24.00|https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TC15WLF
Hole saw for 1.5" weldless TC|1|$19.00|https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=holesaw40
Pump|1|$94.99|https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=Mark2SS
Tri-Clamp Fitting|1|$7.48|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073J5MHRP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1/2" bulkhead|1|$8.50|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJI0TH4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1/2" Npt ball valve for pump|1|$12.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0734QDGZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
1/2" ID silocne tubing|1|$19.61|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074Q6QF9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Spray Wort Aerator|1|$6.66|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSS5J8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
||||
Electronics|||
10x8x6 Wall Mount Box w/ 40A heatsink|1|$75.55|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=616
RTD probe|1|$64.95|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20_15&products_id=767
High Amp Main Switch|1|$12.00|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_32&products_id=586
120v 15A Socket|2|$1.95|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34&products_id=274
120v 10A Rocker Switch|2|$1.80|https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69_32&products_id=435
Fuse holder (pack of 5)|1|$2.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQWXW9S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nema L6-30 socket 30A 240V|1|$12.39|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002NAT9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nema L14-30 Extension cord for main power|1|$56.00|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072F8P2SN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nema L6-30 Power cord for Element|1|$29.95|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07935M281/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
240v 5500W heating element|1|$60.00|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075KCJX8W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Inkbird PID temp Controller|1|$23.99|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LQ8TPDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I would be happy with a 240V 50A NEMA 14-50

I use the Zooz power switch for energy monitoring and home assistant automations for the notification.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07578W7KY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FLszDbWM4R46T

You do have to do a bit of experimentation to get your power ranges correct but it works really well.

For SmartThings you can buy any generic ZigBee or Zwave plug. I use the Securify Peanut with my SmartThings and it works great, and only $20. Been way more reliable than my WeMo which always end up disconnected from WiFi. Only catch was I had to go on the website and change the device type to outlet after first connecting it, took all of 10 seconds. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TC9NC82/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511422314&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=zigbee+peanut&dpPl=1&dpID=311Cnh3SMaL&ref=plSrch

Or $27 Zwave module if you want dimming. This one worked right after pairing, no website. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N7NPRSB/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511422525&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=zwave+lamp+module&dpPl=1&dpID=410InUO-CSL&ref=plSrch

A smart plug is something that allows you to remotely turn a device off.

In my case it can plug /unplug the Chromecast from my phone so that the monitor goes into standby without having to get up...

Here's my smartplug https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0178IC734/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522216294&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=tplink+smart+plug

Some monitors can have issues with Chromecast so I'd check that your monitor works with a bluray beforehand (literally the same protection).

You can just test it with a ps3/ps4 or a bluray player. I'm sure you know someone that can help you out offline (there's conflicting information about which monitors work and which don't online)

I very successfully use a ZEN-20 ( https://www.amazon.com/ZEN20-Z-Wave-Smart-Energy-Power/dp/B01HAQHQ5I ) to control the lighting on my fishtank. All 5 outlets are independently controllable.

It is annoying how you can get a WiFi plug for $7 but a zigbee/zwave plug costs 3-4x as much. This one is pretty cheap https://www.amazon.com/Securifi-compatible-Remotely-Monitor-Appliances/dp/B00TC9NC82

The Peanut Smart Plug sells for $15 on Amazon and pairs directly with Abode. https://www.amazon.com/Securifi-compatible-Remotely-Monitor-Appliances/dp/B00TC9NC82

TP-LINK Wi-Fi Smart Plug, Works with Amazon Alexa, Controls Your Electronics From Anywhere (HS100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aHeCxbWVES1RT

What about this.

Zooz Z-Wave Plus Power Switch ZEN15 for 110V AC Units, Sump Pumps, Humidifiers, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07578W7KY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RWTwDb36VCV6A

It can monitor the power level, and send an alert when it spikes above a threshold.

Then your hub can trigger automations based on that alert.

this is the wifi plug. No it is not for outdoors, but I rigged something up like this to make it work. Seems to be holding up well so far!!!

what about getting a wifi power outlet / ups that works with echo instead? You wouldn't be able make adjustments but you could turn it on and off.
Edit: something like this - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/

you can get a 'smart plug' for $30 that will do this.. no hub or special bulb required.

tplink smartplug

This is pretty much the exact same setup I was planning on doing in my bathroom remodel that is currently in process. I was going to plug my amp into this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let me know how your setup goes.

It doesn't make any noise when turning on or off so must be. It's the tp link mini smart plug hs105: TP-Link Smart Plug Mini, No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Occupies Only One Socket (HS105) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X9YEAb80ZZGX1

Bought a couple smart plugs. Only using one so far. It's in my bedroom with my reading lamp plugged into it. Now I don't have to get out of bed to shut off the light, just click a button on my phone. :]

I just got one of these for my birthday. I have a string of white christmas lights on my porch that I can now turn on and off using the Echo.

You download the app on your phone to get it setup and then add the skill to Echo and say "Alexa turn on the porch lights" and it works. Really easy to setup.

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Control-Devices-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479819310&sr=8-1&keywords=tplink+smart+plug

For just the power cable you can probably go to an electronics store and get a replacement. Take the frayed wires, get a clean cut, strip the wrapper from the positive and ground, and install. Here's an example from amazon.com:
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Straight-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding/dp/B000FPAN84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457800553&sr=8-1&keywords=replacement+electric+plug

If you've got prime or a drop spot near you you can get it shipped to your door and spinning vinyl tomorrow afternoon.

Stock advice if you are uncomfortable with an electrical issue is to find someone who is comfortable with it, or hire an electrician.

That said, what you can do depends on how the current wires are attached. Since you didn't provide pictures, I'm guessing. Do not splice the old plug and wire onto the end of the new wire. Not a good idea at all. If the new wire on the dishwasher is attached in such a way that the wires can be unscrewed and removed within the wire box on the back of the machine then you can take the wire off and replace it with a wire that has a plug on it. But a better option may just be to add a plug to the end of the wire that came on the machine. Hardware stores, Home Depot. or the internet sell replacement plugs to use.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-515PR-Straight-Blade-Rubber/dp/B000FKBZ7M/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NHZRWY0Q3M54Z7BZ5Q9D&dpID=41wZ0pkqgaL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

Its still for sale from the SmartThings store https://www.samsung.com/us/smart-home/smartthings/outlets/samsung-smartthings-outlet-2018-gp-u999sjvldaa/

Frankly, though.... I don't know why you'd want to get it when there are dozens of other zigbee outlets on the market for a fraction of the cost. I'm a fan of the Peanut outlets, at $15. https://smile.amazon.com/Securifi-compatible-Remotely-Monitor-Appliances/dp/B00TC9NC82/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Peanut+outlet&qid=1571313801&sr=8-1

A little late to the party but you could always look into smart plugs that way you can connect them to your wifi and just turn them off and on with your phone or if you have Amazon Alexa or Google Home you can configure them to work with voice activation.

for $5 more the Plug Mini is a better option:

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=gbps_tit_m-3_62d6_ada80ab9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=ffcb75c7-e01d-4198-b44a-8ee857d262d6&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=14611812011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=VRBXMTHZCS89MZNSA860&th=1

Christmas lights and then something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=pd_sim_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0178IC734&pd_rd_r=5AQH7B77TK4GH3HW6JSG&pd_rd_w=wCz3d&pd_rd_wg=0Aak8&psc=1&refRID=5AQH7B77TK4GH3HW6JSG

You don't need a hub for this

I'm thinking of getting something like:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1503112143&sr=8-15&keywords=amazon%2Becho&th=1

For my current soundbar that way it works with Alexa, What do you think?

There is this https://www.amazon.com/Magnepull-XP1000-LC-Wire-Pulling-System/dp/B000YJB5WO

OR you can try and get lucky by using a wet noodle

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009WE0H/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487247701&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=wet+noodle&dpPl=1&dpID=31eqbiZlrRL&ref=plSrch

I have this one but it's out of stock currently. TP-Link Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Works with Amazon Alexa (HS100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1xwvybC7FKRG5

> Peanut plugs

I unfortunately live about 2 hours away from the closest IKEA.


Are theses the Peanut plugs you're talking about?


Also with zigbee the "Space them out like bread crumbs" repeater can be repeated?


Still getting used to Sengled, is it 5 times reset and 10 to like hard reset?

Like this? Not yet released but soon.

Edit: This should also be what you want.

Or if you need more outlets.

man, I can't wait to have a full house to automate. not worth it for an apartment in :-/ This is the total POS "Best Seller" in question

All you need is the cable (in whatever lengths you desire from any reputable hardware store) and (2) Hubbell's (1) [male](https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-HBL5266C-5-15P-Black-White/dp/B002QMYALK
) & (1) female.

(Those links are to the ones I keep in my kit, and the brand I prefer.)

"Alexa, order echo dot", "No x2".
"Alexa, order TP Link Smart Plug", "No x2".

Log into Amazon and add these two items manually to cart to check out...
Echo Dot (black): https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DFKC2SO
TP-Link Smart Plug: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734


Items (2): $79.98
Shipping & handling: $0.00
Alexa : -$12.90
Alexa: -$20.00
TP-Link Promo: -$24.99
Total before tax: $22.09

$29.95 TP-Link Smart Plug, Wi-Fi, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OKy3xbNHF58GX

Just wire in/plug in a smart plug.
This one should work. TP-Link HS100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734

I appreciate the comment. What I think triggered the motion capture was the light directly below the camera. It is attached to a Smart Plug. You can hear it click on it in the actual video. I am the only one with control over it and I didn't turn it on. The light wasn't on when I went to check the live feed 20min later.

I've been using Kasa Smart Plugs for various things around the house. I've yet to have an issue with them. I can't comment on any of their other products as I've only purchased this particular model. I have never had to unplug and plug it back in.

Yes if you have the power cord plugged in to a wifi Alexa enabled plug. Such as this one.
TP-Link

Bought mine on amazon. Arrived next day. $8.69


Leviton 279-S00 50 Amp, 125/250V, Nema 14-50R, 3P, 4W, Flush Mounting Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Grounding, Side Wired, Steel Strap, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9FC5AR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zCYWDb4669MN7

Seems there are a lot of home automation products being given the "Alexa" discount as shown by checking out with this: TP-Link Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Works w/ Amazon Alexa & Google Assistant (HS100)

The LIFX says it's a 25% discount in checkout. Nice find!

You'll need one of these or a smart plug so you can power down your rig remotely.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-PC-Watchdog-Computer-Reboot-Board-/132231222514?_trksid=p2349526.m2548.l4275

This is just an example there are a bunch of different brands.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501567527&sr=8-3&keywords=smart+plug

Something like this out the outside:
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5239-Receptacle-Commercial-Grounding/dp/B00004YUKT

And wire that up to the normal outlet on the inside.

If I understand you correctly you are looking for something like this.

You should replace the plug with a round one like this https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-515PR-Straight-Blade-Rubber/dp/B000FKBZ7M/ and embed it into the print.

something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-101-P-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding/dp/B000FPAN84

You need something that looks like this assuming you're using electronics with 100-240V chargers (which includes iPhones and 99.9% of laptops made in the last 10 years).

China turns them out by the millions. I think I paid less than a dollar apiece for the ones I have. There is a similar device for UK plugs if you need one. It might cost $2 tho.

something like this...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015P708Y/ref=sr_pogo_home_improvement_display_on_website_4?sr=4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65
should cost 4 or 5 bucks

For $16 you can get a tamper proof one that u control wirelessly like this one. I wouldn't get the cheaper ones as they arent very reliable, TP-Link is very reliable though.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Wi-Fi-Plug-TP-Link/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525820345&sr=8-3&keywords=smartplug

I have three of these and they work great: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1JVZOE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I received these last night but haven't had a chance to try them out yet: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B078M9MJ4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1- No. It won't work like you hope it will.

2- No. You will not like the sound of the tap.

3- A smart switch like the TP-Link HS100 will work. https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Control-Devices-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480349984&sr=8-3&keywords=tp-link+switch

4- Not sure.

Zooz Z-Wave Plus Power Switch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07578W7KY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Works very well. Z-wave. Using it with home assistant. They also make a two outlet version Zen 25

Can you use a tp link smart plug that was on sale today? Or is it just limited to the wemo?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FKBZ7M/ That's all you need to fix it. Well, maybe some soldering.

Well there's a mini now same retail price as the old one, they're just discounting to get rid of stock I bet

those look like chinese private label items.

if you already have a power strip, why not a tP-Link smart plug or Wemo Plug
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734

or
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Works-Amazon/dp/B01NBI0A6R

so you just want to turn off the printer remotely?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the phone app for this will let you turn off things remotely so long it is connected to wifi
I use it to turn on and off a pc that is at home , while im at work.

I've been using these ones from amazon.ca. https://www.amazon.ca/Securifi-Systems-CA-PP-WHT-US-CA-Appliances/dp/B00TC9NC82

If you manage to grab the Securifi Almond 2015 or newer router you can even do a firmware update which will allow you to monitor power usage.

Just plug into the wall then plug your lamp into it, connect it to your Wi-Fi, then add it to your devices on your Alexa app so you can use it with your echo device. I like this one because it only takes up one plug space some cover-up both, I've had it for a couple of years. every once in awhile I have to resync it with the Wi-Fi but no other issues
TP-LINK HS105 Mini WiFi Smart Plug tplink 1-Pack White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hzPQCb2B6Z84X

i would run 30a 240v lines, 2 for now, 3 if you want more space in the future. thats 10amp wire, with 2 hots and a neutral, aka 10/2. same as dryer wire, its not too pricey. you would run that to a NEMA L6-30P socket, and get a PDU such as PDUMV30HV and plug each psu in to it using these plugs: IEC-320-C14 to IEC-320-C13
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-IEC-320-C14-IEC-320-C13-P004-003/dp/B00FBA1UH6/ref=pd_sim_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00FBA1UH6&pd_rd_r=RECR15Z2HECE04JZ425R&pd_rd_w=5VH7U&pd_rd_wg=qcHQ8&psc=1&refRID=RECR15Z2HECE04JZ425R
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-IEC-320-C14-IEC-320-C13-P004-003/dp/B00FBA1UH6/ref=pd_sim_147_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00FBA1UH6&pd_rd_r=RECR15Z2HECE04JZ425R&pd_rd_w=5VH7U&pd_rd_wg=qcHQ8&psc=1&refRID=RECR15Z2HECE04JZ425R
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-2620-Receptacle-Industrial-Grounding/dp/B00002NAT9/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518548587&sr=1-2&keywords=L6-30P+socket

I'm using a TP-Link HS100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/

They were cheap when I ordered them a while back. It's been working fine.

It's a 5 minute job to replace the plug. Cut off the old one, as close as possible to the plug, strip the rubber back, strip the three individual wires, and wire put them in the replacement plug (something like this would do fine).

The replacement plug should tell you exactly how long to make your cuts and strips.

You should be able to buy plugs like that at any home repair/hardware store.

Amazon. This is probably what you're looking for. https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-HBL5266C-5-15P-Black-White/dp/B002QMYALK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483102406&sr=8-1&keywords=hubbell+plug

There is this one. https://www.amazon.com/ZEN20-Z-Wave-Smart-Energy-Power
On Amazon, I always see the Aeotec on out of stock. This is the only other one I've seen which also happens to be out of stock.