Reddit mentions: The best electrical connectors

(Just a note, you might want to mention that by "standard light bulbs," you don't mean incandescent, but rather your LED Hue bulbs with a standard screw base, as opposed to an integrated LED module. That's why people are worried you're going to do something like put a 100 watt bulb in an airtight housing, which isn't what you mean)

Like you have discovered, those housings are designed for all-in-one modules, and few kits exist to "retro-retrofit" from module style back to regular lamp base. However, you may be able to make this work! I'm not positive if they would fit, but if the housing doesn't already have one behind that cardboard, you may be able to use a lamp bracket like this along with a socket like this to be able to install screw-base LED bulbs. Be sure that the wattage of the Hue bulb is within the limit of the housing, since they're airtight and only rated as safe when installed and used a particular way. Anyway, those sockets have a "pigtail," aka plain wire ending, so you can either add connectors that plug into the ones inside the housing, or wire them inside the junction box attached to the housing (consult an electrician, which I am not, before doing that, however).

Another note, according to this post, Halo uses different connectors than most other brands of LED downlight/recessed light, but you can buy the standard ones. They're made by IDEAL, here is a listing for them on Amazon; I'm sure you can buy them from other vendors too. You could replace the connectors in the lighting housings with those, then attach them to the socket pigtails too to plug them together.

Good luck, and be safe! Like I said, I'm not a pro, so talk to one before starting on this project!

Today I decided to mount my Streamlight SL-20LP flashlight in the cargo area of my 15 JKUR.

The version of the light I have came with a 12v DC charger, but any version with the drop-in charger will work, (the DC or AC) since I cut the wires and spliced into my rear 12v socket.

If you don't have the rear 12v socket I believe the plug from the wiring harness is still there, and you could splice into that. Not 100% sure though. The models with the rear factory sub have the 12v from my understanding.

Since the 12v socket is on the passenger side surrounded by a big piece of plastic I figured that was a great spot to mount the light.

I wanted to make sure the 12v socket wasn't always 'hot.' I don't drive the vehicle often and wanted to make sure the battery wouldn't run down over time (unlikely but you never know). With my vehicle off my DVOM showed 12v from the plug. I bit of research lead me to this thread (http://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-electrical-lighting-sound-systems-13/source-power-rear-jk-274559/). There is a fuse under the hood that can be moved one spot over to make the plug only function when the key is in accessory or run mode. Perfect! It took me a minute to find the fuse as the layout of my fuse box was slightly different then the one pictured in the thread. The fuse was a yellow 20 amp, near the center of the engine compartment. You'll know which one it is because there is a single empty slot next to it, where all the other fuses have their own spots, or two slots for one fuse to slide into. I moved the fuse over one spot and was now only getting power when the key was on.

I pulled the passenger side plastic panel off the back. I started by removing the torx screws at the bottom where the metal tie down rings are. I also lifted the floor panel that houses the jack, etc. Once the screws were out I started working the panel off with my hands. It takes a bit of effort. It's a pretty large piece so I wasn't overly concerned with damaging it. Eventually it will pop off far enough you can get your hand behind it.

The factory 12v socket is plugged into the wiring harness. There is a little tab at the bottom of the plug you push in and the wire from the harness comes out of the back of the socket.

There is some wide electrical tape along the wires from the harness that go to the 12v socket. I was able to work this off about 6" and tear it off. I tested the wires on the plug to find which one was hot and ground. You can test them yourself or take my word for it, black is ground and the colored one is hot. I also tested the wires on my Streamlight charger. The end of the cable that plugs into the charger has a + and - on it. On mine the cable with the lettering and white " - - - - - - - " was the hot, and the other ground.

I cut the cable for the charger about 8" up from the 12v plug, this will allow me to save the plug and reuse it on some other project later on.

I used these (http://www.amazon.com/Solderless-Wire-Quick-Splice-Connector/dp/B00PR52AHE) to connect the leads from my Streamlight charger to the leads from the harness for the 12v socket. They allow you to "tap" off of one wire without having to cut and solder it.

Once the wires were spliced in I turned the key and made sure I had proper power to the charger plug and 12v socket plug. I then wrapped the wiring harness cable with electrical tape to keep the wires from getting snagged and pulled out of the splice. I plugged the 12v connector back into the socket. Then zip tied the extra cable for the flashlight charger and tucked it away behind the panel.

Finally I routed the charger plug end for the flashlight out through the slot for the tailgate arm. I then snapped the plastic cover back and screwed the tie downs back in.

Make sure to plug the charger end into the flashlight mount before mounting it. I forgot to do this and ran into a clearance issue when I tried to plug it in after I screwed the mount into the plastic panel. I was able to back the screws out and plug it in, then screw them in. But it's easier to do it right the first time.

Drop the flashlight into the mount and find a good spot. Make sure the wires coming from the tailgate arm slot are clear of the tailgate arm and shut the tailgate. Find a spot you would like to mount the light and make sure it'll clear the tailgate. You could probably mount it to the tailgate if you would like and run the cable through the sleeve with the other wires that go into the tailgate.

I was able to use the screws provided from Streamlight and a screwdriver to put the screws in, no drilling required. They hold fairly well into the plastic. There is no "play" and I can drop the flashlight in without any issues. However for a more secure option you may want to consider bolts and washers behind the plastic piece.

Turn the key on and make sure everything looks well. You now have an easily accessible flashlight that's always fully charged!

You CAN use the same connector for most connections - given limitations on wire size and current carrying capability, but its a bad idea.

First off, check the game manual - lots of good info there. There's also some wiring guides online.

Motors and motor controllers power connections should use Andersons. Great connectors, shallow learning curve, easy to get good results, high reliability, current carrying capability for the connectors up to 45 amps - wire size will reduce this.

Our team switched to JST connectors for the CAN bus this year - much nicer than the bullet crimps we have used in the past. JST's are polarized and have a male / female. Each motor controller gets a male and a female, on on the in and one on the out of the CAN bus, now swapping in a controller is four connectors and you are done. One of our students spent a couple meetings with a bag of connectors, a wire stripper, a crimp tool, and her head phones and did every motor controller in the build space. Old robots, current robot, new stock.

PWM signals typically use Dupont connectors. FIRST has had a 'funny' (IMHO) rule about PWM signal wires that they must use a particular set of colors for PWM signal wires. Be sure that any extensions you make correspond to whatever your local robot inspectors interpret the right set of colors to be. (IIRC, Hi-Tec servos come from the factory with wires that robot inspectors would fail. Arguing with inspectors is NEVER a good idea - don't do it!)

Soldering is not always the best way to connect wires to connectors, properly crimped connectors are plenty strong on their own and allow the wire to flex a bit (especially stranded wire). Soldering removes some of that flexibility and can lead to broken wires. Be very aware of strain relief and range of movement for all your connectors.

When we teach wire crimping, the next step after 'crimp the wire' is 'try to pull it apart'. It's way easier to fix the crimp when you have all the tools and parts sitting on the bench in front of you, than to push everything together, put the tools away, and then discover a flying lead. Don't feel bad if your first crimps pull apart - I'm literally a grey beard and it still happens to me after 35 years of mucking about with wires. Just sigh, maybe say a few choice words ("ARRGH - Woodie Flowers Ponytail!") and do it again until you get it right.

I wish I had a better answer for you but unfortunately that is just a bunch of individual FF jumper wires stuck to a MM header pin like this which is then soldered to the board. The opposite side that goes into the relay is just the loose jumper wires that fit onto the pins on the relay board.

I really really wanted a good connector solution so I could have connectors on the board that would make it easy to detach all the wires, preferably all in a single harness (or at most a couple harnesses). I didn't find anything that was simple and worked well. When I eventually rebuild this thing (which I plan on doing sometime), a better connection solution between the pi and various sensors/relay boards is one of the biggest improvements I want to make.

I personally have used both the Leviton smart plug, but have come to actually like the Inovelli one as you can control both sides = more Christmas lights :)

As for outdoor, GE seems to be the only one out there now, but supposedly per Inovelli's Facebook page, they are coming out with one soon.

Here's the link to both the Leviton one I've used as well as the Inovelli one (indoor):

Leviton - https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Decora-Appliance-Module-Z-Wave/dp/B00LEWQYC6

Inovelli - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K6J1Y1I

Outdoor:
GE - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Outdoor/dp/B0013V8K3O

Inovelli - https://www.facebook.com/inovelliUSA/photos/a.1899373336993353.1073741829.1702973266633362/1899528456977841/?type=3&theater

As for setting the sunset/sunrise -- that can be done via the Smart Lights SmartApp within the ST app (Marketplace > SmartApps > SmartThings Recommends > Smart Lights)

Lastly, as for the space heater -- I would advise against that as if the plug doesn't turn off or it tips over, it could cause a fire :/ -- but if you really want to, just check the Maximum Rating on various smart plugs and make sure your space heater does not exceed it.

I have the adapter below and I use 50ohm home coax for all of the antennas that I make. If I find something really interesting that I want to look at closer and I'm not getting a good enough signal with my pizza pan antenna, I will make a simple ground plane antenna for that specific frequency. It consists of 4 1/4 wavelength elements. Three are soldered onto a penny, evenly spaced out at 4, 8, and 12 o'clock. I then use a drill and tap the size and threading of a F type barrel and screw the penny onto the barrel and orient it vertically. I have an old slide projector that I took the screen off that extends to about 7.5 feet at the top. The fourth element goes into the center pin of the barrel.

Find a good ruler. I have a short and thin stainless steel ruler that I got from Harbor freight years ago that works great.

When I am cutting my elements I prefer to leave them a little long and then measure & trim them after they are soldered into place. An element off my a few tenths of a millimetre can produce a surprising amount of noise when you've got the gain turned up.

http://imgur.com/F5yjy9S

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Female-Coaxial-Adapter-Connector/dp/B016FCLM3K/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1491424622&sr=8-16&keywords=sma+to+f+type

I personally have the nooelec NESDR dongle (Wanted the v3 dongle but it was sold out when I bought mine). Either will work well. My nooelec dongle came with a much heavier gauge cable for the magnet mount antenna than my buddies v3 dongle. However the v3 dongle has an integrated bias tee that can power a LNA while the nooelec dongle does not. Which will probably be the next thing you buy after the bug fully bites you ha ha ha.

It takes a lot of drinking but they fit into wine/liquor bottles with ip65 cable glands something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Plastic-Waterproof-Connectors-Glands/dp/B00841YHHY/ref=asc_df_B00841YHHY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=228763672776&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3089221781606621095&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002019&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-392546892203&psc=1

Just drill a hole in the cork/cap to accomodate the gland and screw it on. Makes a cool fixture. Or string the together for some great outdoor or bar lighting.

I'm also a huge fan of the WAGO 221 wire nuts. They are a little more expensive (20c each), but they are small, make rearranging things very easy and in 5 years when you switch your dimmers to the latest and greatest, the copper isn't all twisted.

I am sort of in the market for a smart plug but the one I was looking at amazon offers 2 plugs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K6J1Y1I/

It looks like your plug is single outlet but costs more money than the linked on amazon and looking at your picture it looks like it would cover by outlets unless I get some sort of mini extension cord to go between the plate and your plug. Is there any reason I would want to get yours?

Sure!
Dein Username prüft übrigens aus.


The Light Units


The Chips x4: 98.6$

The Driver x1: 74.9$

CPU Cooler
x4: 55.96$

Thermal Adhesive Paste x1: 7.9$

4way pin for the coolers x1: 9$

Lights Total: 246.36$

Framing and stuff
Most guys build their framing out of aluminium profiles. I bought mine here from the %%% section: https://www.alu-verkauf.de/ALUMINIUM-ALUMINIUMPROFILE

Every country has its own manufacturers for these. Mine cost about 30$.

You also need cables. The veros are pretty flimsy. so take pretinned gauge x1: 9,95$

In order to screw the frame you might wanna cut holes swith a thread. This will do x1: 8.43$

Be careful these drills suck and break easily.

Screws x1: 12.98$

Wago Connectors
x1: 6.35;$

Were at about 315$.

Lets see what we can do with it.

1. Glue the COBs to the CPU cooler.
   
2. Drill the holes into the frame. You should plan that very carefully. Where to hang the frame, where you place the COBs...
   
3. Assemble and screw the frame. It should be a nice and tight framing.
   my frame is build with 6 L-Profiles in which the COBs just lay around and one center piece: Link to Pic
   
4. screw on the driver and check the cable lengths.
   
5. measure your needed cable lengths.
   
6. cut the cables, strip them and connect them to the veros. Watch this video, if you need any help. I wired mine in row, because i chose this particular driver.
   
7. Connect the driver output to a Wallplug using three of the wagos. PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH THE CONNECTIONS!. I had one of these lying around. Everyone should have a cold device cable lying around somewhere.....
   
8. Connect the COBs to the driver. Please refrain from plugging in the driver while doing this :)
   
9. for testing, place the COBs in your direction on the floor and plug in the driver. U might need sunglasses, im not joking, its bright as hell. literal hell.
   
10. Connect the CPU coolers 4way y-cable to a sufficient power supply. Any Smartphone loader should do the trick. You need a few more wagos here.
    
11. In my case, i just placed the COBs losely on the frame, and connected the cooling units.
    
12. Plug in wall and grow weed.
    
    You might additional hangers, cold device cables and another power source for the cooling fans. If you decide to buy the MeanWell HLG-320H-2100B you will need to connect a 10kOhm potentiometer to the Driver. This is to dim the light and safe money in vegphase. The HLG-320H-2100A has a build in dimmer which you can access via a screwdriver. I would recommend A, since its easier to operate. You can also regulate the fans of the cooler via a 150Ohm poti. If you dont like the sound, you can run them at 1/3 to 1/2 speed.
    
    have fun!

Yup it is. Its also pretty easy and cheap. Just get a sonoff rf bridge, and some rf switches or plugs.
With the sonoff rf bridge you can just "learn" the rf codes, and combine that with alexa, and now alexa can control the rf plugs/rf switches.

Pro: cheap. very reliable. If internet/wifi is gone, you can still control the plugs with an rf remote.
contra: theyre oneway, so you dont get any information back from the plugs. (like power usage, running time, whatever)

Sonoff rf bridge:
https://www.amazon.com/SONOFF-Wireless-Controllers-Automationb-Compatible/dp/B07CWTT8R1

RF Outlet Plugs (you can get anything that works with 433mhz):
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B01N23GRYD/

But sonoff has also wifi outlet plugs, ao you need no bridge:
https://www.amazon.com/Sonoff-Wireless-control-Compatible-Anywhere/dp/B07DDGVC7B/ref=mp_s_a_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1541506877&sr=8-26&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=sonoff+wifi

And the famous sonoff wifi switches, which you can connect directly to appliances, such as an 3D-Printer. Or a lamp. ;-) Also dont need a bridge.
https://www.amazon.com/Sonoff-Remote-Control-Compatible-Android/dp/B078GDFYTY/

I for myself have like 50 rf plugs and switches at home since ages, and as alexa moved into the home 2 years ago, the sonoff rf bridge moved with alexa into the house, and is since then controlling everything in the house. ;-)

http://www.rtl-sdr.com/buy-rtl-sdr-dvb-t-dongles/

The rtl-sdr.com brand rtlsdrs are one of the best on the market. Coax Colinears are also very easy to make. Get an F-type to SMA adapter and hook everything up with common CATV RG6 from the hardware store and you're all set.

Sure thing!

A lot of these were purchased on Amazon for this build, but I do a lot of electronics tinkering, and I usually grab this stuff from Aliexpress and just wait the 3-6 weeks for it to arrive in the US. I had one Pro Micro on hand, but needed two, so I just got the 3 pack from the Amazon seller below:

Pro Micros
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HCXMBOU

Bumpons
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACPT2LU

M3 Inserts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y20YLKY

Female Micro USB Breakout Boards
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0183KF7TM

RJ9 Adapter Kit (these can be gotten cheaper, but I needed them fast)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072HXNW3F

RJ9 Coiled Cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076J83H83

Silicone Hookup Wire (good looking and easy to work with)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RD76QD

Female Headers (just snap off and sand the broken edges)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B01DLX6RSQ/

That's your best bet with what's in stock.

However, if you are even slightly handy, you could put together a better, dimmable setup with this board/heatsink and this power supply. To wire it all you would need is this wire and these connectors

Yup, scratchy pots is usually just oxidation on the resistive surfaces or contacts. Contact cleaner can take care of it. Check out this vid for some instructions. I'm guessing he's got a similar setup to you.

As for the 9v connector, cut out the old one and splice in a new one. Youtube to the rescue! If you don't have access to a soldering iron you could use a solderless quick connect as it's just two wires. Solder connection and shrink wrap is the "cleaner" way of doing things.

Based on some of the good ideas I've seen here, I went product hunting.

What about something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Gardner-Bender-FLX-538C10-Split-Combo/dp/B01NAWUM1J

It's a firmer plastic-style protector. I'm not sure if that would be better or worse than the braided cable protectors. I'm thinking better, because one of the key attributes is for the cable protector to resist a sudden bend radius that would cause a kink in the cable.

Try getting a plug in relay or just a plugin outlet.

This one is excellent: Dual Z-Wave Plug w/Built-In Repeater | Control 2 Outlets Individually w/1 Module | Zwave Switch (Appliance & Light) w/a Z-Wave Range Extender | SmartThings, Wink Compatible | Inovelli https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K6J1Y1I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iduWzb776EHDN

Link it up to SmartThings inside first then take it out to the coop and plug it in. Hopefully it will pickup the signal and work from there.

ok, cool, thank you.

Is this the RF bridge you're referring to:

https://www.amazon.com/SONOFF-Bridge-Wireless-Controllers-Automation/dp/B07CWTT8R1/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=sonoff+rf+bridge+433&qid=1572551381&sr=8-5

My team uses Anderson Powerpoles just about everywhere we can. They allow for easy changes without coming apart accidentally. We've got four colors of them on our robot, to match the wires they're used on (red/black and green/white). They even snap together to make two-wire plugs.

Connectors

Crimper

Colors available

I found these on amazon it’s not factory but I think it will accomplish the same goal.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PRZMYD4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ehHYDbYG8YK24

Sure thing...

The LED tape I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D3PD7VR/

Driver:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IY81HO2/

LED channel:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS89UER/

Lever wire nuts:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NPGV7G2/

Zwave dimmer, SmartThings and Google Nest are a little beyond the scope of the OP’s question but easy stuff to google.

I used these ones for all of my Smart Switch installs, as well as my dishwasher and entry light, They're so convenient and simple.

You'd need to Jerry rig a 12v connector for them. You could make one out of a Molex connector, and tap into it with a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F3Y7YNF Kind of a cheesy RGB setup, but yeah, you could make them work if so inclined. Easy peasy.

Appreciate the response Eric. Now I'm starting to doubt fakespot. ReviewMeta shows no problems...

I've been super skeptical these days with anything on amazon. Seems like, especially with electronics that come from China, fake reviews are rampant. Another reason I'm extra careful is that there are a lot of electronics retailer/manufacturers who do the strategy of "low QA, great service (will replace no questions asked)". This can be especially annoying when a product has an installation (and deinstallation) time. I need the product to "just work".

I'm in the Ann Arbor area and went to WMU so was definitely excited when I heard about your company last year. Also, my friend from Kalamazoo (massive Kalamazoo fan) bought one of your in-wall dimmers and doesn't seem to have any problems.

After this new info, I think I'll probably buy a few of your products and see how they work.

We've used Wago Lever Nuts to get around constantly shortening the wires. They're good from 24-12AWG, so you could actually use them in place of Anderson Powerpoles for motor power connections too. I think some teams do this to take proper use of crimpers out of the equation for electrical connections.

No splicing the factory harness... but it does require splicing into two of the wires that connect to the button. The connectors snap over two of the wires to the button (unless I can find a connector that matches the button connector).

Power comes via an add-a-fuse connector, the ground connection works on any screw / connection to the vehicle body, and the button wires are tapped via snap on T-Tap connectors.

An additional benefit is that only changes the startup state - the button still works to turn it on \ off if there's ever a situation where you wanted it on.

Red Solderless Wire Quick Splice Connector - 18-22 Gauge - 25 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PR52AHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OpBxCbKP2FK2J

That type of connector. The center wire on the lighter is positive, the outer part of the socket is negative.

Switch panel (old photo, I have a better CB now)
http://i.imgur.com/SrV5t3I.jpg

The subwoofer trunk floor
http://i.imgur.com/76YNRIr.jpg

I would proably use a in-line splice like these https://www.amazon.com/Morris-Products-97020-Insulated-Splice/dp/B005GDFQKU/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005GDFQKU&pd_rd_r=787C0A4X0FEFN369V02X&pd_rd_w=XXuyK&pd_rd_wg=mGhbZ&psc=1&refRID=787C0A4X0FEFN369V02X 1/0 in one side and 6 or 4 copper out the other side to the breaker

https://www.amazon.com/Ideal-30-765-Twister-Wire-Connector/dp/B000BVMAZ6

https://www.amazon.com/King-Innovation-Port-AlumiConn-Connector/dp/B00EDQ1HLS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8

You'll need to use something like this to make your splices.

https://www.amazon.com/Solderless-Wire-Quick-Splice-Connector/dp/B00PR52AHE

Something like this

I have this switch https://www.amazon.com/Individually-Appliance-SmartThings-Compatible-Inovelli/dp/B01K6J1Y1I/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_421_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=A175T5CGYXX2NYM9HCF4

Can I get all this extra data out of it as well?

If you really do not want to solder, I recommend going with Wago 221s. You don't even need a screwdriver!

You just need two of them; cut off the wires before they terminate into the XT60, strip about 11mm of the insulation, and pair them up. Black to black, red to red. You now have solid connections and they stay room temperature for whatever print job it requires!

How I have mine setup.

well my heated bed jst connector just melted... so i did some research and im going with these for the heated bed http://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Powerpole-Connectors-20-pair/dp/B00GPRIC8Y?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

By the time you're up to 8 gauge, don't wire nuts start to be problematic ?

Maybe split bolts covered with a good layer of electrical tape or these plastic splices ?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FPCGQQ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GDFQKU

> Any tips for wiring together a stranded wife to a solid wire

Wago connectors

> I saw an electrician a with a screwdriver that had a socket in the end of the handle for cranking down wife nuts

Spin-Twist, Amazon

> I also have some push in connectors used instead of wire nuts. Can I use those for stranded wire?

Two different types, there are full push, and push/clamp, Wago makes the clamp ones that you can reuse, using just a push connector is a complete pain with stranded wire, use the nicer ones like HERE

I use this one:

Dual Z-Wave Plug w/Built-In Repeater | Control 2 Outlets Individually w/1 Module | Zwave Switch (Appliance & Light) w/a Z-Wave Range Extender | SmartThings, Wink Compatible | Inovelli https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K6J1Y1I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BsuaAbR8CZ152

6 of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XH6WW4D/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=lega08a-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B06XH6WW4D&linkId=cc59f06fd7893e4174cff95e5f4a7fd0

Are these too big for you: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JB3U7Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Tn2vCb8QMZXA7

https://www.amazon.com/Individually-Appliance-SmartThings-Compatible-Inovelli/dp/B01K6J1Y1I

Two individually addressable outlets for 35. How’s that?

I used a quick splice connector and insulating gel that came in the wiring kit from KC to tap into the cigarette lighter power.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003SYYGXM/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?qid=1456922463&sr=8-1-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=doorman+85462

http://www.amazon.com/ABN-Gauge-Solderless-Splice-Connector/dp/B00PR52AHE

If you are looking for replacements for those blocks, they're called Wago connectors. https://www.amazon.com/221-412-2-Conductor-Compact-Splicing-Connectors/dp/B00JB3U7Y6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?keywords=wago+connectors&qid=1562623176&s=gateway&sr=8-7

The hub is not on a light switch. The cable modem is plugged into a switchable smart plug: https://www.amazon.com/Individually-Appliance-SmartThings-Compatible-Inovelli/dp/B01K6J1Y1I/
This is handy because sometimes internet problems can be fixed by restarting the modem.
When the plug gets switched to off (which seemed to happen the other day when the power flickered), there doesn't seem to be a way to turn it back on automatically because with no internet, the Wink hub doesn't activate any Robots and only responds to local, direct control.

I'd suggest to just cut that cord. Cut it right near the USB part then take another USB cable and cut that one a little bit longer. Strip both cables. You will find 4 wires on each end, strip those too. If you can solder- match the colors and twist them together (red to red, green to green, etc), drop on some solder and cover with heat shrink tubing. If not, use some easy-mode lever nuts and just make sure to match the colors.

Here is another guide with pictures: https://www.techwalla.com/articles/how-to-splice-two-usb-cables-together

If it still seems hard, then just take it to any electronics repair store and I'm sure they can solder on a new USB connector.

I'm assuming you are referring to these: https://www.amazon.com/Solderless-Wire-Quick-Splice-Connector/dp/B00PR52AHE I personally don't like them, but they work fine for low voltage. I'm assuming there is a 12awg running between the dioramas that gets connected when you arrive and the desire for the 22awg is to attempt to hide the wire. This is a low voltage low amp application, so it shouldn't be an issue.