Reddit mentions: The best electrical cord management products

We found 3,674 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical cord management products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 813 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

5. Simple Cord Cable Concealer On-Wall Cord Cover Raceway Kit - Cable Management System to Hide Cables, Cords, or Wires - Cord Organizer for Wall Mounted TVs and Computers at Home or in The Office

    Features:
  • CABLE MANAGEMENT KIT – The cord hider kit contains everything you need to organize those messy cables. Each wire management set includes 6 cable cover raceways 1 1/8" x 11/16" x 25" each, for 150" total of cable concealment!
  • SELF ADHESIVE TAPE – Each kit has strong self-adhesive tape and easy to follow instructions. You can choose to use the peel and stick tape or the drywall anchors with screws. There is no need to cut giant holes in your walls to hide wires or cables.
  • ADAPTABLE TO ANY DÉCOR – Our cord concealer kit blends with any décor and the covers SLIDE EASILY off the raceways. You can paint the wire hiders to match the color of your wall, and the covers can be cut to your desired length.
  • SAFE CABLE PROTECTOR – Protect your children from cables and cords hanging near the floor. Simple Installation will allow you to safely conceal the cables around your TV, desk, or baseboard.
  • PRODUCT DETAILS – Set Includes: 6 cable cover raceways (25” each), 5 Straight Connectors, 4 Elbow Connectors, 1 Inside Elbow Connector, 1 Outside Elbow Connector, and 1 T Connector, 6 pieces adhesive tape, 12 screws, 12 wall anchors.
Simple Cord Cable Concealer On-Wall Cord Cover Raceway Kit - Cable Management System to Hide Cables, Cords, or Wires - Cord Organizer for Wall Mounted TVs and Computers at Home or in The Office
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height1 Inches
Length30 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateAugust 2016
Size150"
Weight2.11 Pounds
Width5 Inches
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6. eBoot 100 Pieces Adhesive Cable Clips Wire Clips Cable Wire Management Wire Cable Holder Clamps Cable Tie Holder for Car, Office and Home

    Features:
  • CONCEALING & PROTECTION OF FLOOR CABLE: The black floor cable cover can successfully conceal and protect cables, cords as well as wires, which is conducive to maintenance of keeping the floor areas clean and safe. Therefore, it can effectively prevent cables, cords and wires from being exposed under external environment.
  • SAFE & NON-TOXIC MATERIAL: This type of floor cord protector is made of PVC which is proved to be strong, tough, non-toxic and slight smell material for people to use. In addition, PVC does not conduct electricity and it is an excellent substance to use for electrical applications.
  • LENGTH, WIDTH & HEIGHT: Each unit of this floor cable protector is 6.5 feet long, the height is 0.67 inches and the external width is 3.27 inches. It’s long and wide enough to cover the cables, wires or cords well. Please check the size of your cables or cords first before placing an order.
  • YELLOW WARNING LINE: There is two bright yellow stripes runs along on the top of the floor cable cover for its visibility and safety, thus it serves as a warning role to tell people to pay attention to that sign and in case of tripping over by accident.
  • IDEAL FOR INDOORS & OUTDOORS: The floor cable cover or cord proctor can be used as electrical cable protector or extension cord cover, which definitely perfects for both indoors and outdoors surroundings like home, office, workshop, warehouse, concert or any other outdoor environment.
eBoot 100 Pieces Adhesive Cable Clips Wire Clips Cable Wire Management Wire Cable Holder Clamps Cable Tie Holder for Car, Office and Home
Specs:
Height0.28 Inches
Length0.79 Inches
Weight0.1543235834 Pounds
Width0.59 Inches
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13. D-Line Cable Raceway On-Wall Cord Cover White | 39 Inch Medium Paintable Channel to Hide and Conceal Cords, Cables, or Wires | Cable Management | 1.18" (W) x 0.59" (H)

    Features:
  • D-Line Cable Raceway is a cable management solution used to hide & protect surface cables. By utilizing D-Line Raceway - appearance improves, with the half-round profile of D-Line cord hider designed to discreetly hide cords. D-Line Raceway also protects surface cables by making cords less accessible to curious pets and infants.
  • Hide TV wires with D-Line’s decorative half round TV cord hider. Patented hinge and click-lock lid gives easy cord access, great when AV appliances are upgraded. Single piece 39-inch D-Line raceway lengths make stylish cord covers for wall mounted TV, as 39-inch is sufficient for covering wall mounted TV cord drops… versus shorter lengths which often require multiple short lengths & bulky connectors to hide TV cables.
  • D-Line Cable Raceway is a great wall cord cover, with D-Line’s half round wire cover blending with décor… and able to appear as the natural top section of baseboards. Compatible cord concealer accessory packs allow the user to hide wires around most popular angles. D-Line raceway bends & tees forgives imprecise cuts or measurements, while connectors & end caps fit securely under cable channel lengths. One-piece design of D-Line half round cable raceway avoids need to cut lid & base separately.
  • All D-Line cord organizer solutions have been designed easy-to-install; no prior DIY or electrical know-how is required to install D-Line’s cord concealer. D-Line wire covers are produced from high grade pvc; D-Line cord hider lengths can be easily cut to size (if required). Each D-Line cord cover length is supplied with strong self-adhesive backing; simply peel and stick D-Line wire raceway to a smooth clean surface, open the hinged lid & snap shut to hide pesky cords!
  • Paintable Cord Cover – D-Line Raceway is available in a range of colors and sizes to match surroundings, however for the perfect finish D-Line cord covers are fully paintable. To paint, simply key the cable hider with a fine sandpaper & apply two coats of paint!
  • Each pack includes: 1x D-Line 1.18" (W) x 0.59" (H) x 39" Half Round White Cord Cover Length. Single piece 39" raceway lengths avoid the need for bulky connectors to join multiple lengths, ensuring a neat appearance is always maintained!
D-Line Cable Raceway On-Wall Cord Cover White | 39 Inch Medium Paintable Channel to Hide and Conceal Cords, Cables, or Wires | Cable Management | 1.18" (W) x 0.59" (H)
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height0.59 Inches
Length39.37 Inches
Number of items1
SizeMedium
Weight0.3 Pounds
Width1.18 Inches
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19. Wiremold Cable Management Kit, Wire and Cable Cover for Wall Mount Flat Screen TV , Cable Raceway for Hiding and Organizing Wires and Cords, White, 30 inch, CMK30

    Features:
  • IN WALL CABLE MANAGEMENT KIT: The CMK30 in wall cable management kit is perfect solution for power outlet and in-wall cable organizer. It is suitable for all types of wall mount Flat Screen LED, LCD, and Plasma Televisions. The kit includes 30-inch channel, wall anchors, and screws.
  • ENHANCED DESIGN: Snap-on/Snap-off Cover makes adding additional wires easy. Just snap off the cover, add the cables, and snap the cover back on. Has a slim and sleek design and blends with any décor. Its channels can be painted to match the color of your wall. This cord cover is ideal for Wall Mounted TV Cords, HDMI cables, and TV cables.
  • EASY TO INSTALL: In wall cable management kit offers flexibility while installing the product. It has pre-drilled holes to simplify the installation. If you need a different size, simply cut the covers to your desired length.
  • WIREMOLD QUALITY: Wiremold products work together seamlessly to save installation time, while providing enhanced flexibility and productivity in environments ranging from residential dwellings and educational institutions to meeting rooms and healthcare facilities.
  • ADD STYLE: Upgrade your home or office with style and innovation. Add the perfect finishing touch to your home or office, delivering advanced features to enhance every day life, while complementing any decor.
Wiremold Cable Management Kit, Wire and Cable Cover for Wall Mount Flat Screen TV , Cable Raceway for Hiding and Organizing Wires and Cords, White, 30 inch, CMK30
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height0.75 Inches
Length30 Inches
Number of items1
Size30 inch
Weight1 Pounds
Width3.6 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on electrical cord management products

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where electrical cord management products are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 240
Number of comments: 106
Relevant subreddits: 1
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Number of comments: 30
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Number of comments: 30
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Number of comments: 10
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 28
Number of comments: 10
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Total score: 24
Number of comments: 12
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Total score: 19
Number of comments: 13
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Total score: 11
Number of comments: 11
Relevant subreddits: 2

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Top Reddit comments about Electrical Cord Management:

u/DinkaAnimalLover · 3 pointsr/Rabbits

Give it a bit more time... you made the right choice for her future trust me! Spaying is key for preventing uterine cancer of which unspayed females have a very high chance.

However her hormones have not yet calmed down and in that initial period this can lead to some quite bizarre behaviors. She is also a little upset that you took her to the vet and were giving meds to her, but she will forgive you - it just takes a bit of time and the right approach (see below).

Do not give up on her!!!! Give her a stuffed animal as a cuddle buddy, I think that that too will help her feel safer and calm down.

As far as bonding, what works best with bunnies is always always letting them come to you instead of you going to them... silly as it is, that is what makes them feel most secure around anyone who is trying to bond with them. The best way to encourage them to do this is another silly thing - get on the floor. Literally just sprawl out and do your own thing and wait for her to come and explore you (I promise she will if you are patient). On the floor you are on her own level and you feel both safe and curious for them explore.

I would honestly suggest trying to really focus for the next few week on spending lots of time on the floor with her when you are home and let her out to explore so she can choose to come to you herself. You are already letting her explore so the net step is just to be on the floor yourself and be patient - she needs to see you in your world and feel safe about you. Watch TV on the floor and lean against the sofa for comfort or even when you are on your laptop. Basically just make a real effort to spend lots of time with her on the floor for a couple weeks and see if that makes a difference. Always let her come to you on his own terms when he feels safe, don't reach for her if you feel like she is not feeling safe in that moment (kind of anticipate her feelings)... some greens will help make you feel more inviting and attractive, and over time she will learn that humans mean yummies and they are safe and he will pop by for pets from you more often. :)

Watch a couple videos below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3rlWno7B8g - great video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS9HcoC19h4 - another good video

__________________________________

  1. Now you do need to bunny poof your space (this will help instantly if you spend one Saturday working on it) - namely the power cords to stuff... unfortunately no matter how much you train a bun will almost always chew cords - it kind of reminds them of hay... it's instinctual but bunny proofing is not hard or expensive at all.
    1. Wire protectors that work well - these are quite chew proof and you just hide you cables inside - it makes things look nice and neat actually and you won't have another wire chewed.
    2. Also something like this is great if you can make it work in the space config you have... like along the baseboard or floor - I used these to hide my cords and make everything neat before a bun was ever in the picture even
    3. I have also seen people slit open a heavy duty garden hose and put the wires inside - works well
    4. Watch a few videos below for some more great tips - they are short and have good ideas for you
      1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UbDQfIAVvY0
      2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1-GN3qErFc
      3. http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Bunny-proofing
  2. Now for your moldings and furniture you can also try something like this tape (but be very careful to be sure he does not chew it!)
    1. You can also try a homemade spray like in this video to make it unattractive to chew - just spray on wooden things he chews
  3. For flooring I highly suggest this indoor/outdoor rug - it is easy to clean, inexpensive, and due to a tight weave hard to chew. A lot of bunny parents on here use it and love it. :)
    1. If they love to dig though don't deny them, provide a good alternative instead on top of the rug below in one spot - these seagrass mats - they are safe and awesome.
    2. Giving toys and things that are actually meant for digging and chewing will prevent the carpet digging (as in more targeted toys) - try to provide a box full for shredded paper to dig like this in or a cat scratcher like this one or something like this.
  4. No we have come to the last and most important point - bunnies are smart and they need toys to entertain them and stay out of trouble. In the absence of good things to chew they will chew the other things - chewing and digging is their natural instinct, so the solution is not to spot them, but to provide alternatives specifically meant for them to chew and dig and to reinforce them using it. Bunnies are very food-motivated so you can use food to train them to do what you want them to do. :)
    1. They do really understand positive reinforcement and build positive associations when you redirect bad behavior and reward good behavior. So you have to actively and diligently train the bunny overtime not to chew and dig the wrong things. Anytime you see digging or chewing, immediately try to offer a toy or some alternative instead and reward with a small treat when it works. This does need to be done very diligently each time you see him do things like that.
    2. See this link for many many toy ideas you can buy and make
u/kiwiandapple · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Ow that's awesome!

Happy birthday already!


Great to hear that the RAM will be used! That really makes me happy.

I've seen your updated OP and my god, I get way too jealous, haha! This is going to be an amazing PC.

---

Watercooling


---

I have been looking at it in depth. You don't want to go with the 480mm in the top & 240mm in the bottom setup?
Here is a double 480mm build. Which does look pretty awesome as well.
Here is an other double 480mm build. This one is a bit messy, but just to show you how it will "look".

I would advise to buy the pretty expensive but probably very good & awesome looking window from MNPC tech.
I've send them a mail to question if a 480mm radiator will still fit in the bottom. I am very sure, but not entirely.
Just got a reply from MNPC tech and the 480mm radiator will fit no problem.

---

As for the tubing, you mentioned that you want hard tubes. Would you perhaps like the extra step to go with glass?
The benefit of glass is that it's very scratch resistant & it stays very clear. It's also not that hard to "cut" but you need to take your time for it. It will take a full weekend for sure to completely watercool it. Or I would say, 2 days at least.
Here is a video that explains on how to cut glass tubes. But it also shows you and explains why you would perhaps want glass tubes.
As you can see at 3:23 the soft tubing got pretty damn clouded. I don't know how long this took, but I guess about a year+ for sure. Probably 2 years, not entirely sure.

When you do go for glass, it's recommended to actually set up the whole loop in plastic first. To get the exact lengths, since you can cut plastic a lot easier than glass. Then you can use the plastic parts as templates for the glass. This will cost you an other $50 extra, but it's mostly going to cost you time.
I will put the plastic in the list.

It's actually great that you'll get the case soon, because then you can measure up a lot of things that I need to know. So I can suggest the right parts! So be ready with a measuring tape.

---

GTX1080s, cables & monitors


---


GTX1080s:


Yes, getting 2 GTX1080s is going to be "rough". They sell out in a snap, so I highly recommend to make an account at this website:
https://www.nowinstock.net/computers/videocards/nvidia/gtx1080
Then you can get an email / SMS text notification for when parts come back in stock, so that you can order it very quickly. It sells out in less than 2 hours the last time a card came into the store on Amazon.
You can buy any "founders edition" card from any brand really. But EVGA & Asus are 2 that keep the warranty even when you put waterblocks on them. So I prefer those 2 brands, maybe MSI, Gigabyte, Zotac & other brands started to also keep the warranty if you put their cards under water. But I am not sure about that.
I highly recommend to be very careful about all the screws when you put on the waterblock. Just in case you have to send the card back for RMA. You need to have all the screws & the cooler.

Cables:


You have to tell me which color combination you would prefer. They have a lot of options from CableMods.

  • Black / Blood Red
  • Black / Blood Red / White
  • Black / Blood Red / Silver
  • Black / White
  • Red / White
  • Red
  • Black
  • White

    Then I have a better idea on how to pick out the colors for the rest of the components.

    Monitors:


    Ow yes, the monitors! I assume that you probably would prefer to have the same monitors all around? That would of course shoot your budget into the roof. If you do go for the Acer 1440p, 165Hz gaming monitor of $759. The LG 4K monitor that I recommended got a very sleek design as well, but it of course is a bit different compared to the Acer 1440p monitor.

    Other parts:


    I hope that you didn't buy that CPU for $549.99? But anyway, you want to buy a cheap after-market air cooler as well. Since the i7-6700K does not come with a cooler on it's own.
    You need this to test the system, before you put it under water, you have to make sure it works on air. Including a stress test for about 2-12 hours. Whatever you prefer. I generally let it stress test for 1 night. Which is about 8-10 hours.

    I will post my list with all the parts later tonight. I hope, but I have to tell you, that you should not order it right away. We have to do some measurements first!

    Measurements:


    I will make a paint drawing to show you exactly what I need to know in terms of all the measurements.

    Tools:


    I've also looked at some tools that you need to build the PC and to watercool it. But I have to ask you if you have certain tools already.
    There may be some other products I am forgetting about right now. Excuse me if I do!

    Item|Price
    ----|:----
    Magnetic screwdriver set | $20
    Set of files | $15
    Handsaw | $13
    Electronic drill | $50
    1/8" to 5/8" adapter chunk | $20
    Velcro straps | $8
    Anti static wrist strap | $5

    Working on the whole list now (again).

    ---

    #####Again, if you have any questions. Feel free to ask!




u/NinjaMilez · 5 pointsr/battlestations

Looks professional.

It's a minor thing but you should remove the kinks from your mouse. You only need to do it the the part that is visible on the desk.

Also, some kind of phone dock might be a good idea if you can find one that doesn't take up a lot of desk real estate. Gives the phone a home on the desk.

Maybe grab something like this for your controller so it looks like it has a place on the desk as opposed to looking like it's been put down after a gaming session. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015KJAQX6?th=1

You seem like you are the kind of person who appreciates quality. I say this because you have a pair of HD800's. If you are such a person then I'd recommend building yourself a custom mechanical keyboard instead of having to put up with the Corsair K70 RGB. Check out /r/MechanicalKeyboards if you're interested! ^join ^usssss...

Speaking of your headphones. Again, like the controller, you should make them look like they have a dedicated place. You should get two wall-mountable headphone stands and put them up on that left hand side wall. If you wanted to sacrifice convenience for looks then you could also get a wall-mounted hook for the cables since they are detachable. I always thought that cables that hang from headphones are messy. If you remove them then they are much easier to display nicely.

Use these at the far end of the desk near the wall and make your keyboard cable tidier: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G23R0K6/

Your cable management is quite good but can be improved:

u/happyevil · 6 pointsr/buildapc

Things I feel are a must:

  • A good, flat table you aren't afraid to ruin with with bumping, thermal grease or anything else that may damage a table that you could be using. Getting a nice durable cover to put over a table while you're working is also a good alternative. You're going to be working with lots of little screws and parts so anything fuzzy or carpet like will lose parts.

  • I suggest a small pliers to hold things. Also handy if something gets stuck.

  • I like a screw driver set that has some nice length to them. Working around parts is very difficult wit a short stubby screwdriver. I'm not sure about specific sizes for the screw driver heads but there aren't any real odd sized screws in computers. Just make sure you have a decent variance, there is no "one size fits all". You'll want Phillips as well as flat head screw drivers.

  • Getting a good ruler and tape measure is good if you're ordering large parts you're worried may not fit. Also a must if you plan on water cooling.

  • have something that can do hex shaped bolts (fairly small ones too) is useful. I use it for motherboard standoffs, removing graphics card PCI brackets and some other more custom things that may use a hex bolt.

  • A good pair of scissors that wont get ruined by cutting through cables, thin metal, zip ties, or those terrible plastic clam shells that RAM sometimes comes in.

    Useful extras:

  • I keep a tube of thermal paste on hand.

  • I like to have little trays to hold small screws and parts while I'm working on things.

  • I like to have zip ties and zip tie mounts on hand for cable management. I get both items in many different sizes.

  • You don't need an anti-static wrist strap as long as you know what you're doing and ground yourself properly. If you don't trust yourself then getting one won't hurt anything. I don't use one.

  • A wire stripper, soldering iron kit and some heat shrink wrap if you want to do custom cables/switches and such. Also handy if you need to make any quick repairs.

  • A nice directional light to get light right where you need it.

  • An Allen Wrench set can come in handy on occasion. Not many parts use it but if you come across one you'll be glad you picked a set up.

  • I picked up a ratchet style, interchangeable head screwdriver in addition to my "long neck" set. I got it a security screwdriver kit which comes in handy when breaking apart things you shouldn't be. I used it on my PS3 not too long ago.

    --EDIT--

    My order of assembly:

  • Lay everything out and keep it organized. You'd be surprised how much organizing everything helps.

  • Your manliness is not compromised reading manuals while building a computer. Motherboard and some other items do require special connections that change between models, even from the same company. Use manuals.

  • I like to use the motherboard box to store all manuals and spare parts from a build after it's built.

  • Keep all boxes and items for at least 1 week after building the computer. If something breaks down you'll be glad you did this. When you decide to get rid of the boxes I like to keep my proof of purchases. I put them in my motherboard box.

  • To start building, first take out the case and take off the front and back panels (and front in some cases). Install the PSU and any case fans you're adding. Also, snap in the motherboard back panel.

  • Now take a good look and get a decent idea of where you want your cables moving. Move cables out of the center area of the case in the general directions you think you want them off in.

  • Screw in the motherboard standoffs.

  • I like to assemble most of my motherboard outside the case. Install the CPU, RAM and thermal paste/heatsink.

  • plug in the power button (still outside the case) and anything else you may need to run the computer. Boot it up real fast just to make sure it's posting and running. You don't need the hard drive or anything. Just the CPU, RAM a graphics device (on-board or dedicated) and some power.

  • If it works, unplug everything.

  • Install anything that uses a drive bay into the case (hard drives, disk drives, card readers, etc.).

  • Now remove anything extra you added to the motherboard for the test such as PCI cards. Screw down the motherboard in the case. Screw opposite sides working toward the middle to get as even pressure on the board as possible.

  • Install any PCI cards now and screw them into their brackets.

  • route your cables, keep good airflow.

  • power it up, check that bios sees everything. Put the sides back on the case. You're done!

  • Leave the computer running for 24-48 hours. You can use it and power cycle it for updates and such but leave it running. This will help test it for stability. I also monitor temperatures during this time. Once you have established it is stable and within good temp thresholds you can move on to benchmarking, over-clocking, etc.
u/subtract30 · 3 pointsr/battlestations

I just bought a cheapo wall mount from Best Buy when I wanted to wall mount my monitor and it worked great. Fortunately, monitors that support wall mounting all follow the same VESA standard that TV's follow, so you can buy any TV/"Display" wall mount that has a range support for your monitor size (generally, VESA wall mounts will say '24"-40"', '42"-60"' etc.) and bolt it in!

From there it depends on if you want one that is static, or if you want one that tilts up and down, or one that moves forward/back/left/right. You can also get an arm that attaches to your desk and has a VESA mount on the back.

Tons of options, really just boils down to the features that you want. As far as quality goes, I'd look at reviews to be sure but after mounting 4 TV's and One monitor in my lifetime, I've never had a wall mount break or fall off the wall - just make sure you follow the directions on the box.

The one thing I 100% recommend is to drill pilot holes. Absolutely do it. It may sound unnecessary but I guarantee you it is completely worth the time in case there's something in the wall that prevents you from putting in the lag bolts, also an extra measure of precaution against cracking your stud. Easy to do, only takes a couple extra minutes, and can save you some major headaches.

Also I'm offering all this information on the pretense that you haven't wall mounted anything before.

TL;DR: Go on Amazon (or your local electronics store if you're impatient/OK with spending more money) and find a mount/monitor arm with the features you like that supports a 34" display. Also make sure to drill pilot holes.


EDIT
For cable management in the context of cables going to your monitor, you have 2 options: Either a cable cover or running them through the wall. I've done both- when I lived in an apartment, I did a cable cover because I didn't want to carve out a hole in the wall in a rental, but in my house I ran them through the wall. The cable cover is super easy because it's just a piece of soft plastic that either bolts or adheres to the wall, you run the cables through it, slide on the plastic cover and bam, done. Looks super clean. https://www.amazon.com/Wiremold-CMK30-30-inch-Screen-Cover/dp/B0015EA3NO/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1482943183&sr=1-6&keywords=cable+cover

Running the cables through the wall isn't much more difficult- took maybe about 30-45 minutes to complete. The best way to do it is to get a drywall saw, some brush plates from a hardware store, and cut a hole to the dimensions of the brush plate. The brush plates are nice because when all is said and done you don't have an ugly, open hole in the wall, instead you have something that resembles a wall socket or a lightswitch (brush plates are the same dimensions), and the receptacle part of the brush plate that goes in the wall generally has a hook to keep your cables from getting stuck in the wall if/when you disconnect them.

Sorry if this is information overload/stuff you already know lol, I like to help others when I'm knowledgeable on the subject.

u/alpharelic · 1 pointr/InteriorDesign

Okay here's my idea of layout:

https://imgur.com/a/t1nMS

I would DEFINITELY move your TV away from the window because it is blocking so much of that lovely light! Look at the shadows it's making on the wall... it'd be a shame to leave it there. But get what you're saying about glare from the window. Any chance that you could mount the TV on the wall? The TV stand could still go underneath it, but you can get cable tidies to hide the cables. Get a nice picture frame or vintage vase/pot or something to sit on the glass TV stand (with the TV mounted above) will draw people's attention away from cables etc anyway.

There was another post on this subreddit today by somebody who had made a cool desk out of IKEA products: https://www.reddit.com/r/InteriorDesign/comments/80qy8v/ideas_for_office_carpet_and_complete_room. Notice how they've used 2x of the little shelving units and a piece of wood. If you don't want to buy the individual drawer units then IKEA do super cheap legs that you can just screw into a piece of wood. You could get the wood cut easily at any DIY place, or Home Depot or whatever. The beauty of this is that you can get it to fit your space perfectly and maximise the room available.

I agree your furniture isn't the most exciting but that's fine - we've all had free furniture! An easy cheap way to improve them is to cover it with a nice throw. Something like this would be simple and much more attractive:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075B5SQMR/ref=twister_B075BG9JG9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

or

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20373065/

Good luck! Your space is going to be great

u/B-80 · 5 pointsr/malelivingspace

Your room is really functional, and you're trading off style for function. Honestly, if you really want to make your room look nicer, take the Computer and Musical instruments out, replace the space with some seating, and a small table (maybe with a TV), leave some open space in your room.

As far as what you can do with what you have... Most students are in the same position you are, not a lot of space for our stuff and everything we have is there because it functions well. For instance, that chair that you have is an eyesore, but I'm sure it's comfy and you spend a lot of time in it (I have pretty much the same thing in my room, crappy looking chair, but I love to sit on it; in fact I actually have the same Chassis and speakers as you as well...).

Here's what you can do... Pick a Color Scheme, lose the blinds, and move your desk in front of the window if you're going to keep it. It would be best if you could kind of center it at the window, but I don't see anywhere else you can put your bed.

Your computer is the only thing which can't change color, so go with sometimes like White/Orange, stay away from dull colors and grays, take a chance, paint the walls with orange and white stripes or something(I like orange and white if you didn't notice).

Next, make sure everything is organized. Your room isn't dirty or really messy, but it's cluttered, it looks like everything was just thrown in there. Grab a couple of storage cabinets, shove them in your closet, and throw everything in there that you can bare to not have at arms reach (take some chances, you can always keep something out if you find that you need it too often). Do your best to clear up as much desk space as possible. A desk is not a storage space, it's a workspace, it looks best when it's cleared off.

Thus musical stuff will always look poorly in your room; it has too many wires. If you can find a place to put it elsewhere in the house, that would be best, otherwise, grab these and use them on every cord. Take a second to wind everything up when you're done using it and keep all of the cords out of sight when you're not using them.

Putting some stuff on your walls would be cool too, I like that everything you have up is framed. In my opinion, A few framed items or a lot of unframed items look great on a wall, but I think having a couple of loose posters looks tacky. A few more framed items would be cool (band posters/artwork/movie posters, whatever you're into).

Finally, never understood the rug on carpet thing, especially if it's just another solid color, and especially if that other solid color is black. I would ditch it, if you want a rug, get something colorful and contemporary (this is really the key word for you). The rug is an opportunity to have a centerpiece/focal point/glue that holds the room together, so keep that in mind if you go shopping for another one.

And of course, pick up the chair, clean your closet, put away your vacuum, fix your light bulbs, and pick all that shit up off the floor you lazy son of a bitch...

u/BPNave · 2066 pointsr/pics

It's not pretty lol. We tried to zip tie everything together to make it at least understandable haha

EDIT: Hijacking this post since there are a LOT of common questions. Oh and /u/smilenataliew is the wife :)

FAQ:


>How did you connect everything to the TV/What adapters did you use?

NES through Gamecube (bottom 4): We have a 4-input composite switcher (those Yellow/Red/White cables) between the N64 and Gamecube, connected to our TV's 3.5mm composite port (which looks like a headphone jack), which we convert with cables like these. We do not recommend a composite to HDMI converter, as the output (might) look garbled from older systems (it did for us).

Wii: Component cables to HDMI converter, then into a remote controlled HDMI switcher (switcher and controller can both be seen to the left of Kirby Amiibo/the Wii)

WiiU & Switch: HDMI to the same HDMI switcher

>Don't the controllers just fall out when you open the case? How are they secured?

The NES controller is resting on a WiiU controller stand, oddly enough!
The SNES controller is the most finnicky. It's slightly leaning back on its own cords, but it's hard to get it to stay put.
The N64 controller is leaned against a stack of N64 games--it's definitely the system my wife and I have the most games for already!
The Gamecube controller is leaning against two other stacked gamecube controllers.
The Wii controller is just just leaning up against a thick piece of cardboard (more cardboard is also holding up the NES and SNES systems since the bottom of their doors would block view of the systems otherwise. My wife intends to wrap all cardboard with contact paper to make it all more decorative, she's very crafty!)
The WiiU has the same controllers as the Wii, except for the screen one, which is on a stand that actually charges the unit while it sits on top of the WiiU system!
The Switch controller actually stands on its own with the joy cons connected to them, but I've decided to actually show the charging station we bought with the joy cons connected to it so that they'll always be charged and ready to go!

>Where are the games?

Behind the controllers! In fact the N64 controller is leaning on a stack of them.

>Cable management? Do you have controller extenders?

Lots of zip ties in the back, and as for controller cables, we bought ~100 of those velcro straps for cords so we can wrap them up for neat display storage without wrapping the cords around the controllers. We also have extension cords for all corded controllers since the consoles don't exactly come out of the unit!

>Where can I get the display case?

It's a piece of furniture so it's a bit expensive, but it's definitely what we wanted after searching for a couple weeks! It's on Amazon

>You could have just emulated it all!

I love having and playing on the original consoles, but emulation is also awesome!

>Where's the Virtual Boy?

It doesn't connect to the TV so I didn't feel the need to get it for this project, but I DO want it for my collection! (Also kids should wait a bit before they play with a 3D device, even the 3DS)

>Where's Nintendo's even older console, the Color TV-Game?/Where's the 64DD?

Those were released Japan only, but I might still want to get them! I believe the controller and the console for Color TV-Game are both one unit, and space is limited, so it might be tough to integrate it if I want to get it!

>Where's the TV? CRT??

Mounted on the wall above the mantle. Sorry, no CRT...yet.

>PHOTOSHOPPED!/I swear I saw this before!

lol why would anyone photoshop this? Definitely real. I'll provide a few more images if I can. And definitely my setup! Though I'm sure I'm not the first to do something similar.

>lol fake niece

The niece and story are real, but if I'm being perfectly honest this is more for me than her haha

u/citybiker837105 · 2 pointsr/HomeServer

Great job on taking the first steps!

---

Regarding FreeNAS (my preference). There are a ton of guides out there about how to set things up and what to do. My personal setup and favorite guide is 6 raw disks in mirrored zdevs. After running raidz3 for a year, then backing up, then trying out a raidz2, then reading to NEVER do raidz1, I decided to do a final backup, and rebuild into mirrored zdevs, and I've settled in and been running it now for about 4 years with 0 issues. I cant espouse all the benefits of this setup because the article I'm linking below will do a MUCH better job than I can in this post.

Read more about mirrored vdevs and why to use them here.

TLDR: instead of raidz1, raidz2, or some other structure, use mirrored vdevs to create your storage pool.

DISK0 & DISK1 = VDEV_A
DISK2 & DISK3 = VDEV_B
DISK4 & DISK5 = VDEV_C

...

DISKn & DISKn+1 = VDEV_n


last step:
storage_pool = VDEV_A & VDEV_B & VDEV_C & VDEV_n

---

Now if you are still reading, then great! Let me share a few things about operational uses for your home server.

  1. Buy and use a Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS).
  • These cheap to medium expensive items are a godsend for cleaning up power from an outlet, protecting against surges, and to help aide in proper shutdown of critical (homelab) systems. These are important for the longevity of anything you plug into them.
  • Smart UPS's have a Network Management Controller (NMC) of some sort like this one
  • Regular UPS's don't have an NMC, but are just as capable like this one
  • Consider a Power Distribution Unit (PDU) as well. Think of this like a large power strip.
  • Real Life Example: Use a APC 650 UPS for your entertainment center and plugin your TV, Gaming Systems, Set-Top Cable Box, Lights, and anything else. Can hit one button, or for more advanced UPS's schedule a full power down during vacations, or time away from home, etc.

  1. In regards to a Rack or Cabinet; go Square Holes!
  • Round holes are ancient
  • Round holes strip easily
  • Square Holes are more "modular" / configurable
  • Invest in cage nuts like these for the best results

  1. Try to build micro or mini-atx for a FreeNAS system because of Power Savings and Quietness

  2. Accessories
  • Budget for things like VGA-to-HDMI, DVI-to-HDMI, HDMI-to-MiniDP, and a whole sort of other dongles.
  • Budget for 12" power cord extenders to turn large power bricks into standard sized power cords to fit a power strip
  • Speaking of power strips, budget for a nice PDU, or several high quality power strips that can be mounted with screws on wood and/or zip-ties.

  1. Cable Management
  • Cut and crimp your own Cat5/6 Cables, or buy lengths that make sense (1', 3', 6', 10')
  • Velcro - seriously will need these


    I missed a few things I'm sure, but this is probably too large of a post to keep going. Happy building!
u/MoogleMan3 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You can have a killer setup for under $500.

Mic: Audio Technica AT2005 - A great mic that a lot of let's players use (draax, zueljin, kingdaddydmac, etc.). It also accepts xlr or usb inputs (more on that at the end). I use the atr2100, which is the same mic, just different color and warranty. The at2005 is cheaper by about $25 right now, so buying today, that's the one I'd get. It's a dynamic mic, so it blocks out sound that's not in front of it. Much better for noisy environments. Condenser mics like the blue yeti will pick up a lot more background noise. Other mics I've used are the V-Moda Boompro, which works with most headphones that have detachable cables (in my case the M100s) and sounds good, but changing the cable for when I didn't want to use the mic became old pretty fast. You can leave it attached, but then the boom mic is there all the time. I've also used the antlion modmic 4.0 and can't recommend it. It has white noise unless you use a usb soundcard, the cable is stiff and it's kind of expensive compared to full fledged mics. $56

Stand: Pyle PMKSH01 Suspension Boom Scissor Microphone Stand - A decent cheap stand. Nothing special, but it comes with an integrated xlr cable. I use this one, but may upgrade to the Rode PSA1 ($100) later on. The shock mount will not fit the at2005 however. $21

Shock Mount: On-Stage MY420 - A great shock mount that fits the at2005/atr2100. Shock mounts reduce noises from bumping your desk or tapping on your keyboard; things that may reverberate to your mic. It might not even be necessary if you're not a heavy handed gamer or if your desk is made of a thick, dense material. $25

Wind Filter: On-Stage Foam Ball Windscreen - Reduces wind/breathing noises as well as minimizing plosives. Not a complete necessity, but extremely cheap and it does help, so why not? $3

Cable management: Velcro One-Wrap Cable Wraps - I use these for keeping the usb cable for the mic attached to the stand. Extremely useful and cheap. $6

Headphones: Very subjective to user preference. I prefer closed vs open for noise isolation. Here's what I've used:

Audio Technica ATH M50: Good (not great) headphones for ~$100. Considered the standard by many, but to me they're just good. $155

V-Moda M100: Excellent sound with very potent bass. They make the M50s sound muddy in comparison. HOWEVER, the M100s have a design flaw where the "wings" (the parts above where you adjust the headphones) will crack over time. It happened to two pairs of my M100s. Unacceptable for the price of these headphones, regardless of how good they sound. $222

Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 80 Ohm: Amazing. Potent bass like the M100s, but even a bit clearer. Very wide soundstage for closed headphones. I paid $219 for mine and don't regret it a single bit. I might grab another pair at the price they're currently at. $150

All that adds up to around $261 + tax choosing the DT770s, and will be a killer setup for gaming. Far better than any "gaming" headset, and it even opens the option of streaming or let's play videos (the reason I got my setup). There is one more thing I'd add though, given the budget if you're serious about mic quality, and that's the $99 Focusrite Scarlett Solo 2nd Gen. It's a usb audio interface that accepts xlr mics. It gives you a bit more control over the audio coming out of your mic and cleans up the signal so you get less "noise" from the usb interface. Quality is good without it, but with it, it's noticeably better.

Hope this helps some! I spent quite a while researching things when I put my own setup together. :)

u/SuperAngryGuy · 6 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

Hey, heads up on modern bulbs.

I started doing this about five years ago when not as many LEDs were used, my first with a Space Bucket is here from about four years ago, and some are now using a lot more LEDs in the bulbs. I did remount some of the LED modules for side lighting. I'm going to modify the article with a disclaimer.

The problem with more LEDs is that they are each ran in series, each LED needs 3-3.3 volts, so in some instances you are going to be exposing voltages that are going beyond safe levels by removing the cover. This should be isolated DC voltage, not AC line voltage, but keep in mind that with more than 15-20 LEDs that you can have a shock hazard.

Big Clive on YouTube has shown that they might not always be isolated from ground.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNf6VSj6M-E


Shock hazards are most serious when it's a hand to hand shock since the current path can go through the heart and 50mA is when things can start becoming lethal.

Also I found that if the LEDs become disconnected from the power supply that the power supply voltage floated up to about 170 volts which in 120 volt AC nations is the peak voltage that you would get with a rectified capacitor. You have to be aware of this particularly when doing major modifications to the bulb.

It can be done safely but insulation is the key.

Also, don't use hot glue with power electronics. You can use 5 minute epoxy instead and give it 5 hours to cure.

edit spelling

/u/MrSparkleBud is using modules with 10 LEDs and his setup looks pretty safe. The hot glue is being used in areas where there would not be an expected heat build up. Adhesive cable tie mounts with tiny cable ties would still be a much better option as they provide really good strain relief (as an electrician I used a lot of these). Those now exposed power supplies still have line voltage on them, though, but it's obvious he has experience doing stuff like this from the very neat layout.

Make sure the line voltage splicing is soldered/taped and not just twisted with line voltage. Be sure to use Scotch Super 33+ tape if you can get it and not cheap, generic tape. Home Depot etc will have it for about $3 as well as the cable mount stuff.

Wire nuts are preferred for line voltage splicing.



u/MollyPopGirl · 3 pointsr/battlestations

It's amazing how big a difference frames can make.

I assume that the reason you moved the tower to face that away is so that you can see the glass window? Totally get that. Moved my set up all around because I wanted to enjoy looking at it. But maybe you could move it to the same position you had in the first photos but maybe further to the left of your desk? Basically switching it with the PS4's location. I think that will help hide some of those cables and give the desk a cleaner look.

Or if you really have your heart set on that tower positioning, I think some velcro straps would be a great start and compressing the cables. Or something like these could help get cables off the floor and under the desk and help run them in a tidier fashion.

You've definitely been making some improvements! Keep up the great work!

u/IsItTooHotInHere · 41 pointsr/ValveIndex

Let me just start off by saying, even with just the few hours I've played with it, I LOVE this thing. Thank you valve for making such an awesome piece of hardware. And yes, my unit does have the joystick issue but it's just the feedback that's broken. My joysticks otherwise register without issue.

But anyways onto the good stuff.

What?


A 20m (65ft) cable run from my desk to right under the couch, so that the only hookup is the breakout / trident cable.

Why?


In my place, I ran into the predicament of the only space I had room to do VR was the living room, but given that putting my entire desk in the living room would have been weird aesthetically, I opted for the cable run, to get VR from the PC in the room across the house to my living room.

What parts?


Pretty simple actually, but it did require 2, not exactly cheap cables, and one coupler (prices in US Dollar).

  • ATZEBE DP Fiber Cable 60ft [$107.99 - Amazon]
  • SIIG USB 3.0 Active Repeater 20m [$115.99 - Amazon]
  • Poyicott DP to DP Coupler [$9.99 - Amazon]
  • (Optionally) 50 count cable ties [$7.99 - Amazon]

    The DP - DP coupler is out of necessity, given that no link box exists with the Index. Yes, it's an expensive solution. In addition to the $999 headset, I've spent another ~$231 on cable runs. But for my situation, it works flawlessly.

    If you are thinking you need a solution like that, and any of the cables are unavailable (the DP cable is out of stock as of writing on July 6th), make sure to get fiber if you can for the sake of not losing quality over a copper cable. As for the USB cable, you're looking for an active cable. These typically have external power bricks to supply additional 5V power that your tower cannot do over such a distance. Edit: _However_, I have found that plugging in the additional power causes the computer to have issues recognizing any USB device, so I guess don't do that if you buy the same cable. Other cables may vary.

    How is it setup?


    I have the cables running along the basebords of the house, from my computer all the way to the living room. They take a right angle, and are gaff-taped down to the floor before running under the couch where they can become a loose coil [pic].

    Does it work?


    In a word, yes! I will update this comment if I run into reliability issues down the line, but it seems that this system works well enough, and has the added bonus of not hearing the PC fans spinning given the off-ear design of the Index headphones. (Edit: The only pitfall is that sometimes you have to power cycle the headset once or twice to get SteamVR to see it, but that doesn't take long. After that it's smooth sailing!)

    Hope this helps anyone that might be needing a similar setup!

    (EDIT: Numerous edits for spelling / grammar)

u/Crypticion · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Cable management is not a fun thing to do but in my opinion one of the most rewarding for a set up in terms of aesthetics. I spent about $6 on Amazon for some cable clips, and used some zip ties to clean up all the wires under my desk. It took me around an hour or so. It really cleaned up the look of my setup which is semi-minimalistic as well. I even drilled a hole in my desk for the mouse and keyboard. I love how it looks even more now. I would also recommend a cable race way, or a rack to hold the cables up, however I just took advantage of my 100 clips (actually 98 after I counted) and a lot of zip ties to hold it up. Also a cable sleeve for the back of the pc helps out a lot. There are many tutorials on YouTube but really it just takes some time and some clever thinking on how to hide everything and make it look pretty.

Also I dig the large monitor/T.V set up

Good luck, and remember your set up is never compete ;)

u/Failing_Guarantee · 8 pointsr/battlestations

A few items that will help with cable management:

  • Cable Sleeve - simple, effective, and easy to use, but also requires some forethought to not end up with a cable snake. Since the material is soft it can be cut to length and used to go around corners. Also great protection from small pets.

  • Double sided tape - Easy to use, and has a really good hold. Best use is for mounting your power strip. Down side is that it will most likely cause paint damage if it's ever removed.

  • Cable Clips - great for directing the flow of wires. Simple to use, and hold quite well. Used with the cable sleeve, you can keep the wire snake at bay (cut a hole in the sleeve and poke the clip through while mounting to the wall or desk). Similarly with the double sided tape, you may have damage if you try to remove them.

  • Velcro Straps - these have good length on them for help keeping multiple wires tightly grouped. The pack also comes with a good amount of them, in grey and black. The help keep the cable snake from bulging.

u/IzzuThug · 4 pointsr/battlestations

Don't let this hooligans fool ya. LED's are awesome, more screens the better. I'm not sure if you use that box as a foot stool but if not you should move it so you have room for your feet.


  1. As someone else said move the LED strip to the back of your desk.


  2. Again as someone else said move that one speaker to the correct side. However, you don't need to discard a monitor for that. Just put it behind where the monitors meet. So long as the speaker isn't covered too much it shouldn't hinder sound coming out of it. Heck, if you wanted you could lay the speaker on its side. I'm not much of an audiophile and don't have those speakers so your mileage may vary. Are those speakers hooked up to a stereo, computer, or maybe a DAC? If it's a DAC then you could easily mount that to the underside of the desk with some double sided tape or Velcro tape. I prefer Velcro tape myself.


  3. Once more, as someone said mount those headphone somewhere when you're not using them. Seems you have space to the left of your desk for that. If you like using that space yourself then you could just mount a holder on the underside of your desk. They're super cheap on Amazon, and anything like this will work fine.


  4. It's hard to see how much cable clutter you have. Best thing you can do is bundle as many cables together as possible. A good way to do this is with veclro ties. The more peripherals you get the more cables you have. Some will have their own power bricks and some will have cable length as if you were supposed to use the thing in another room. To deter this I would recommend cable trays to mount to the bottom of the desk. One other thing that can help for cable management is a cable sleeve which is helpful for tiding up those cables as they go to your PC.


  5. Basically mount anything and everything you can to the bottom of your desk to hide as much as possible from view.
u/OhGooses · 4 pointsr/OculusQuest

After testing the tuna can and finding it to be IMMENSELY more comfortable, I continued to play with the tuna strapped on until my power bank arrived today. Now I have the real setup!

Here are the links to the products I used:

Anker PowerCore 10000 PD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HBTY3Z2

I like the size of this powerbank and I think it'll be nice to have with my phone and Switch as well so it was worth it all around.

Kootek 118" Cable Management Sleeves

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCS77TU

This is a fairly big roll for this small application, but I plan on using some of it for its intended purpose as well. The neoprene sleeve would also only work for a smallish powerbank like this one. I also considered something like this (would also work for larger powerbanks):

Reusable Cinch Straps 2" x 12" - 6 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FY8W2GG

The powerbank came with a 3ft cable that would have worked fine, but I ordered some 1.5ft cables instead. I think it may have been unnecessary, though.

Besgoods 2-Pack 1.5ft Short Braided USB C to USB C 2.0 Cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QM48ZT7

Overall, the counterweight is a HUGE improvement for me, and the added bonus of some extra battery life is nice as well!

u/abcteryx · 1 pointr/oculus

So you have four corners on the recessed ceiling (higher up), and four corners on the lower ceiling. I would almost prefer to put the cameras in the corners of the lower ceiling, because it would give a more straight-on view of the player/controllers. Each camera has a narrower viewing cone at extreme close proximity. The further from the main playspace they are, the more that cone has a chance to "spread out" and cover the actual playspace. In this case, you would draw your playspace with at least (2 ft) or (0.6 m) distance from each of the four walls, so people don't bash their knuckles at the borders.

However, you might not want your cameras to be further than (12 ft) or (3.6 m) apart from each other (for best tracking quality). I don't have a big enough room to run into this limit, so you may be fine with further spaced out cameras. If the lower ceiling corners are further apart than (12 ft) or (3.6 m), then you may want to put them in the recessed ceiling anyways. You can always ignore the Oculus Rift setup's warnings about camera spacing, by the way. In fact, with larger playspaces, the Oculus setup wizard will always complain. Don't worry about it.

Also, you might want to consider using this USB card. It can handle the throughput of all four cameras in USB 3.0 mode, if desired. You can downgrade any camera to USB 2.0 by simply running a USB 2.0 cable to that camera instead of 3.0. A passive USB 2.0 cable is fine for short runs, but consider an active USB 2.0 cable (like the one that comes in the box of an extra Rift camera) for longer runs. You should put your Rift headset in one of the motherboard's USB 3.0 ports (USB 2.0 might actually be fine), and then put all four cameras (you might only need three cameras) in the USB extension card.

You can search this subreddit for discussions on whether you want/need to have the cameras/headset on 3.0 or 2.0. I prefer to run everything at USB 3.0, but it may not be necessary.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are less than 10 feet (say, those corners nearest to your computer tower), use these passive USB 3.0 cables. You're also going to want a passive USB 3.0 extension for your Rift headset.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are more than 10 feet away, you should use an active USB 3.0 cable. This is necessary for cameras that are further away from your tower. Note that the cable I linked has an optional barrel port for a 12V power supply. You only need to power these cables if you're daisy-chaining two or more of them in a row (for runs longer than (33 ft) or (10 m)).

These CAT6 round cable clips should work well for cable routing, especially for the slightly thicker active USB 3.0 cables. These general-purpose adhesive cable clips work fine for runs of the thinner, passive USB cables, but you may have issues with the adhesive depending on your wall.

You'll want this HDMI extension cable for your Rift headset, to make use of the extra space. I've had a good experience with bunching the HDMI and USB Rift headset extensions together by using these lightweight Velcro ties. I have about a (10 ft) or (3 m) square playspace, so you may encounter different problems than me if your playspace is larger. I only have three cameras, and it works fine. Good luck in your setup, I'm sure whatever you do will work great!

u/ScapegoatZovc · 1 pointr/DesignMyRoom

If you want the desks to be facing each other, this is how I would recommend setting the desks up:

http://imgur.com/a/PUdKO

Once you do that, you have some degree of play on how close the desks are and how much room you have between your backs' and the walls of the room. That's going to boil down to preference and feel, but depending on how much space you have between the desks and how much you need to access your cables, you could do some pretty creative things to disguise the cable clutter.

A cheap sheet of material and some basic tools, like Plywood and drills/saws or foam core and a sharp utility knife can partition off the cables so you aren't always looking at them when you're looking past the desk. There's also all sorts of wire management options like bluelounge's "nicer" options or just simple velcro wraps. If you want to add some light and customization to the room, LED strips are super popular with regards to the gaming aesthetic and they're fairly inexpensive and usually have easy instalation. (Adhesive, normally.)

As far as decor is concerned, you have lots of options, really. You could have separate rugs for you and your partner's sitting areas, or you could have a rug under both of the desks, or utilize the other half of the room for something else and visually separate it with a rug. Another thing you could use to visually separate the room is some kind of open, free-standing shelf. I'm separating my bedroom (bed from computer/desk area) with this kind of shelving which is pretty 'rugged', 'industrial', or I guess 'masculine', but I like how they look in my space. I had to do some digging but I was able to find some shelves that were 72" by 48" (14" deep) at Walmart for under $100, I got two of them.

It's hard for me to make any specific suggestions about anything else without actually seeing the room (or your desks/gaming setups, etc!) and having a feel for it.

u/grendel_x86 · 2 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

I dont do too many field-fixes anymore... Im now in startup land where everything is shiny & new, and we get what we need.

 

My things that were stupid-useful that mostly haven't been listed so far:

Klein Tools electrician scissors - Most useful cutters ever. Take-a-finger-off sharp, cuts though thick cables, the top is great for straining phone / ethernet cable. A cable puller had a set, and he sold me on them in 30 seconds when he raked the wobbly cat5 strands across them, and they were perfectly straight. Would have been worth the $$ at twice the cost.

I replaced my mismatched tools in my bag w/ a iFixit toolkit when I needed to start buying new bits for iPads and the tri-lobes for macs. Ended up being about the same cost as those bits alone, and it had them, and a bunch of other stuff that was better then my cobbled together tools. The screwdriver is far-better made then the little plastic ones I had before. They have a new-toolkit, but I haven't used it.

A roll of Velcro ties Far more useful then zips. Use the scissors above to trim as needed.

Mars-eraser. Great for cleaning toner from printers, and cleaning up corroded connectors (first pass).

Melamine Sponge (aka Magic Eraser) - They clean up things nothing else does like the weird tint that macs wrist guards get from skin oil. Also great for getting toner off of the outside of printers. Also good for cleaning up cherry-coke from a $25k piece of sound gear.

Deoxit - You can use the cheap stuff that was like $5 a can at any automotive parts store, and that will work for most things. This is for more sensitive stuff. I used this repairing contacts in audio-control-surfaces, rebuilding DSLRs, etc. Its for when more then a mars-eraser is needed.

u/GoingOnEmpty · 3 pointsr/battlestations

It's all about personal preference as to what you want to use, but I used Velcro cable ties, cable sleeves, and sticky cable clamps for both my battlestation and my TV/console station. I bought these in particular and they do just the trick for me at very low cost.

Ties: VELCRO Brand ONE WRAP Thin Ties | Strong & Reusable | Perfect for Fastening Wires & Organizing Cords | Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch | 100 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l3bJBbHE1JZZS

Sleeves: 20" Cable Management Sleeve with Free Zip Ties https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR6QQLR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Clamps: eBoot Adjustable Cable Clips Adhesive Nylon Wire Clamps, Black, 50 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYO307S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J3bJBbRA9GWRQ

Stick some clamps behind your desk and down the edges of the desk legs to run the wires and cords along them. Just be warned that the residue may stick and might peel off paint or wood, so take caution if you want to tear them off. I'm sure you can find better ones that don't potentially damage your desk, but with proper removal care, you should be fine.

I like the velcro straps because they can easily be adjusted, removed, and reused. They're also versatile for any other random cables you want to store.

u/clipstep · 2 pointsr/AmateurRoomPorn

Sorry I missed you earlier, here's what I used to get the tower discretely away in the corner and set up the triple monitor setup:

  • 10' 3.5mm to RCA cable (your extension cord may need to vary depending on what you use for speakers)

  • 4x usb M/F extension cord 10' (These are for plugging in my keyboard, mouse, phone connection, and a spare for usb sticks without having to plug into the tower)

  • 3x hdmi cable 10' (for plugging in the monitors, be sure to check your connection options as your graphics card / cards may need a different connection)

  • Vivo Triple Monitor Mount ( This is the trickiest part. For me to mount 3 heavy 27" BenQ monitors, this was a relatively inexpensive option. The stand is well built, and looks and moves well, but the weight of the monitors is difficult to mount without any sagging. Also, 27" is the absolute max size this mount will work for, and even then my viewing angles are a bit lacking. I would recommend Locktek's EXCELLENT mounts for neutralizing this issue, but they are vastly more expensive. Weight wont be an issue though. For me, the issue was not a big deal so I didn't splurge on a pricier mount.

  • Cable management sleeve (so that you can tuck away all those cords neatly)

    After that, you can have all peripherals at your fingertips and tuck the tower away into a corner. If your space is carpeted (and even if its not), be sure to keep the tower slightly elevated off the ground to allow for good air circulation.

    Definitely not dogma but that's what I've been using, and it works well thus far. Be sure not to skimp on the length of your cords, when your hiding it it will need to snake around a bit under the desk.

    Hope that helps!

u/kelsiersghost · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

> Currently the main coax line goes through the basement direct to the 1st floor wall outlet, then coax to the modem.
I’ve made a drawing of how I understand the internet could go to the splitter, then run again to the 1st floor outlet, then to the modem.

Ideally, you'd have zero interruptions between the coax coming from the street, all the way to the plug on the modem. Since it sounds like the coax enters the walls to the first floor from the basement, just be sure you eliminate any coax splitters by using a barrel adapter
UNLESS you also want a coax drop for Cable TV elsewhere in the house.

Then it's just a matter of making sure you've simplified the circuit to the street using the fewest number of splitters as you can. Each two-way split introduces approximately 3.5dB of loss (a little more than 50%) of power lost. Splitters are also known to be super poorly made and absolutely go bad after a few years of use. You may consider replacing any that you're using. These are decent ones.


> I'm feeling bold

Two of those ethernet strips there in the basement look like basic patch panels. They're just for organizing the cables and don't do any switching, per se. I'd figure out what connections you actually need in the house, beyond maybe a ethernet connection to the modem, the TV and your desktop PC and then go through and eliminate everything else. If you want to double check where the lines are terminated to through the massive web of cables, you can pick up an Ethernet Probe and Test kit to make tracking everything down easier. I'd (ideally) only buy one that has a dedicated ethernet jack and is made by Extech, Fluke, or Klein. As a bonus, It's a handy tool for tracing out ANY sort of wiring, too.

Once you eliminate all the unnecessary stuff, you can start making it look nice. Use some velcro wire ties and bundle everything until it looks respectable. You MAY find that you have odd-length cables used as patch cables between the switch and the patch panel. Don't cut anything, and maybe lay out anything you eliminate by length so you can reuse them if your now-neat-looking bundle could benefit from different-length cables. Don't forget to label everything for clarity using your own philosophy.


> I’m not sure how to use this stuff, if it’s past it’s prime, or if I should even bother. But, If it could be useful I’d like to use it. I just don’t understand it despite reading the sticky’s, etc.

You'll feel a lot more comfortable once you understand what everything is and where it all goes.

All that cable is probably Cat5 or Cat5e at best. If you want to be ready for gigabit speeds in the coming years, you might consider running some new Cat6a or better. I don't know anything about the big switch in the photos, but it's probably doing the job fine for now - If you want faster than 100mbit/s network speeds though, you'll need to upgrade it along with the ethernet. As with the ethernet, it's not a priority, just a nice-to-have.

The big coax amplifier you've got there was probably built in 1974 (note: pre-internet) and is all kinds of lossy/noisy mess. I'd go ahead and get rid of that and anything coax-related that you don't think you'll end up using. There's better stuff available on the market now for stupidly cheap, if you decide that you still need an amplified coax signal.

I'd love to see more pictures once you get it all put together and looking nice. If you need any further hardware advice, let us know!

u/slamgauge · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

I don't know if it is worth it to you to buy a big keyboard case but this is what I do. I have a very large keyboard case that I have my gear set up in. All the connections are set up and the wires are held down with velcro. I only have to hook up one piece of gear and I have all the cables labeled very clearly so any gear savy person could set my gear up for me. Live setup requires zero thinking. I can have everything set up and ready in less than five min. All I need is power and two lines out to the house.

If you can't go the giant coffin setup route then go with OCD labeling of all the things. To be rock solid fail proof have 2 of every cable you need. Both ends of every cable should be labeled as to what they plug into with a matching label on the device that the cable gets plugged into. Just match up the labels. Also have your power supply sorted before hand. Get a really nice power strip and secure all of your wall warts to it with tape or velcro straps. Label and wrap each power cable coming off of it so you can quickly identify what everything plugs into. Color coded tape is great for this but that might be overkill. I just use a label printer.

Then practice setting up your gear a few times. Tear your setup down and put everything out in a hallway. Turn all the lights off in your room and set up all your gear with just a flashlight in your teeth. Anything that confuses you for even a second needs to be streamlined, labeled better or made easier in whatever way necessary. Basically you need to be able to set up your gear in the dark while you are drunk and high. It takes a little prep work but it makes things so easy once you get up on stage.

Edit: These velcro straps are the best thing ever.

u/MentalEcho · 2 pointsr/gout

Op, correct me if I am wrong, but they look like the super awesome ones from Amazon - I keep them on hand as they are super useful. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/BWC_semaJ · 1 pointr/buildapc

Awesome build man! One thing you are lacking is cable management! But that isn't a big deal but if you want to take it to the next level of pretty come over to /r/CableManagement . Those guys there know there shit and are very helpful!

I personally would recommend some zip ties, twisty ties, and some velcro! Velcro is the shit.

For bigger wires these worked great for me. A bit pricey but they are wonderful.

http://www.amazon.com/ColorYourLife-Reusable-Fastening-Microfiber-Packaging/dp/B00CI5YW4U/ref=pd_ys_sf_s_rp_a1_2_p?ie=UTF8&refRID=0CKBF12EX0GRNFPZWYYH

Smaller things I usually go with this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GRTHEYI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusable-Self-Gripping-Inches-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1409399401&sr=1-1&keywords=zip+ties

Zip Ties

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OK7P3G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6233-Cable-Ties-500-Piece/dp/B000NPZ4D0/ref=pd_rhf_gw_s_cp_31_AGK5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1KER4A54A5HGWD1C6GC6

u/myaltimateform · 1 pointr/SleepApnea

I think you were on to something initially with the PC fans. They're standardized, low power, and last forever. Instead of using the 3 or 4 pin connectors, you could get a USB powered model, like these, plug them into a USB AC charger, and the charger into a timer or inline switch. If you find the airflow isn't enough, you can add a second fan or try a larger one. It won't dry a tube in 10 seconds, but let it sit for 5 minutes and it should do the job.

Instead of 3D printing small stuff, you could always use Sugru. For a funnel, see if you can find a car oil funnel. They go from a large square (for the fans) to a small circle (for the tube).

If you want to get super fancy, since the tubes are a standardized length, you could mount this fan contraction to a wall with a second set of funnel and fans at the opposite end (but with the fans flipped over). Then you'd have gravity pulling the water down, the fan blowing dry air from the top, and the moisture being sucked out the bottom. Connect the two pieces with some plastic wire conduit/covers and you got yourself a nice, tidy solution.

You could even have a 'deluxe' model with an attached shelf containing a few fans under a grating/mesh for the other bits, like face mask and head strap.

I wouldn't use a hairdryer because of the heat. I'd opt for something that uses cool air, but requires no oversight.

Of course the alternative is to just clean it early in the day and let it dry for a few hours... (but I do love my gadgets).

u/imadp · 5 pointsr/battlestations

Hey, thats my shop! Glad to see you put your shadow boxes to good use! Your setup looks great and is surprisingly similar to mine (I love that monitor, but I had to return mine a few times to get one without backlight bleed). Maybe I'll post my station later in the week.

About the cables, I don't know if your desk is too thick, but I bought some of those black binder clips from office supply stores and clamped them to the back of my desk, and then I ran wires through them and secured them with velcro straps. Even if that doesn't work, these velcro straps are awesome for bundling wires: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6

Thanks to everyone else for your interest in my shadow boxes, I'll be working hard to get your orders out and I'll have some new NES scenes up soon as well. Check back this week!

u/SuckinLemonz · 24 pointsr/Rabbits

You spay/neuter them. You put their hay feeder above their litterbox. Then you put almost no effort into litter training them but it somehow works.

Then you buy cord protectors for everything for a grand total of idk, like, $20 bucks on Amazon. Realize that buying cord protectors that go against your wall actually make your home look better too. Splurge an extra bit every month to get decent litter and litterpan liners. Throw out the trash every 3 days without having to wash a box and feel like a king.

Pick up stray “territory poops” on occasion. Remember to exclaim to yourself each time: “wow. These aren’t even like poop. It’s just hard brown grass balls. These are so weird. Shouldn’t I be grossed out by this? Why aren’t these gross? Why can’t our poop be this great? If I ate like a rabbit would my poop be like this?”

Bam. You’ve got a house trained rabbit. And a rabbit-trained person. Move on to the task of convincing them to love you.

u/Orchestral_Design · 3 pointsr/cableadvice

Here is a brief step by step on how to somewhat tame this birds nest of spaghetti.


  1. Unplug everything and start with the power, go from the wall outlet, then to the power strips. Use these to make things look cleaner. Its also a key time to re-organize where you put stuff, as it will ultimately determine your wire management and routing. If it has a bulky power brick, you might want to get this to help with the wall warts.

  2. Now for the audio and video cables your AV switcher is where a lot of them come from so more cable management is good. (pro tip, label the HDMI so you know where its going) I find that cable clips are great for making sure everything stays nice and neat. Velcro Zip Ties are a wonderful thing to have, and you could probably just get by with buying those and nothing else. But if you have slack on a cable, wrap that up like a breakfast burrito.

  3. Networking comes next, and boy howdy it looks like you have a lot. Apply the same technique previously used of unplugging cables (label them prior if you want to make your life easier) and using a cable bundler to make it look clean. In addition, you can probably put some of the routers behind the entertainment center with all the new space you are getting by organizing the other cables.

    Some other things I would say is, put your UPS outside of the entertainment center, those things take up a ton of space and are heavy. If you ever need to unplug something or change the battery it will be very inconvenient. I would place it right next to the entertainment center or behind it. Also consider using double sided 3M foam tape to mount your switch upside down underneath a shelf, that way it frees up some space. Aside from that, theres not much else that I can see being done. I hope this helps. You are contractually obligated by reddit to post the before and after if you decide to tackle this. (not really, but I would love to see the results!)
u/SirEDCaLot · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

On DIY pickups- give it a shot by all means, but if it sounds like shit don't rule out pickups as a concept because the bad sound could just be the homemade piezo rather than the concept.

Also for the camera, you can get a tiny little mini shotgun mic that goes on the 3.5mm port on top of the phone. They're not terribly expensive as I recall...

Well for the wires you could probably simplify it a bit. Short pins 11-12 and that should constantly activate the drive motor, so the drive LED won't go off but it will save wires (should be same as grounding it). That means you only need 3 wires from each drive to the Arduino- Arduino Ground, Direction, and Step.

So if it were me, I'd get some nice easy to manage wire like for example 24/4 phone cable. Then I'd crimp terminal pins on each end (with some heat shrink for insulation of course), female pins go on the drive side, then the Arduino side gets two male pins for the Arduino and the other two go in a terminal block (much like the ones you have) which break out the Arduino's ground. Result is you have one thin data wire going to each drive which you can easily manage with cord clips, and then coming back to a central place where it can be nicely contained. Power is easy, just get a bunch of Molex-to-floppy Y splitters and some more cord clips you're done. Remember that you can make Molex connections yourself (just need the parts, which is useful for cable management...

u/therankin · 4 pointsr/HomeServer

Cable management to start.

You need to set yourself ample time and be in a focused mood to do it.

Basically, you sit down one Saturday (or other day off), and unplug EVERYTHING.

Line up all of the equipment the way you want to so it looks nice and neat, and then run the wiring. (optional but helpful: label the wires)

I use these a lot at work: https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ you can also buy one long roll of velcro so you can cut to size, I like that better at home.

To address the flipping over because of cables, you have to contort the cables. Bend them in the opposite direction they want to bend, not too hard but firm, and they'll end up wanting to stay straight.

Pro-tip: If you hang a group of cables over a hook and cable tie them together at the bottom, near the RJ-45 tips; leave them there for a week or so, you end up with really straight cables. (I got this trick from my former boss).

​

Edit: for me, if I had a wire rack I would make it look more pleasant by putting a wooden board, or even poster board on top of the metal wire so you couldn't see through it. That may just be a personal preference though.

Edit 2: Thank you kind internet stranger for the silver!

u/brownenotbrown · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc
I included monitors, but it's way over budget and that's without peripherals besides those monitors or the operating system or any computer building tools.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3.0GHz 8-Core Processor | $378.99 @ Amazon Canada
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ARCTIC ATX AM4 Motherboard | $154.99 @ PC Canada
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $183.99 @ Amazon Canada
Storage | SanDisk - SSD PLUS 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $114.68 @ Amazon Canada
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $61.95 @ Vuugo
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $689.99 @ Newegg Canada
Case | Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400 TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case | $99.99 @ Newegg Canada
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G2 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $134.99 @ Amazon Canada
Wireless Network Adapter | TP-Link - Archer T2U USB 2.0 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $30.00 @ Vuugo
Monitor | AOC - G2460PQU 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor | $259.99 @ Amazon Canada
Monitor | BenQ - XL2411 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor | $299.99 @ Amazon Canada
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2409.55
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-25 04:23 EDT-0400 |

Operating system

Amazon links to the download or the USB. If you pick the first option, you'll have to make a bootable USB drive.

Useful videos

Step by step PC building walkthrough.

What to do after you finish the build.

Updating the BIOS (necessary for getting the RAM to run at correct frequency).

Tools you'll need

Screwdriver. Magnetic tip is optional (but useful). Number 2 size Phillips head. Here's one if you don't have one.

Scissors/Wire cutter. You probably have one already.

Zip ties for cable management.

Optional Mini screwdriver for hard-to-reach places.

Optional Velcro straps to assist cable management further.

Other peripherals

Entry-level, non-mechanical keyboard from Logitech, or a mechanical like this Cougar MX Cherry Black switch keyboard.

Entry-level gaming mouse from Corsair.

QcK Gaming mousepad.

Feel free to ask anything.

Note: all Amazon links are to the US site, not the Canadian one. The PC build, however, has all Canadian links.*

EDIT: Formatting.

EDIT 2: If you pick one of the two monitors, pick the BenQ one. It's a nicer monitor.
u/shoe-jitsu · 1 pointr/battlestations

I also have a sit / stand desk but have my computer on a separate table to the side of it. Here's what i did!


My desk is ikea, and has a mesh cable management net mounted to the bottom. I found that the best thing to do was mount a big power strip to the bottom of the desk, and plug in all my accessories there. Then i only have the one power strip cable coming down from the desk underside, and goes down along the back of the table leg and plugs into my UPS that's on the floor. Then I mount all of the cables to the underside of the table with these guys (https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Adhesive-Management-Holder/dp/B01HR9VS4I/ref=lp_11042051_1_15?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543598131&sr=1-15) . So I have a power strip next to the net, all the cables being plugged into the strip are being hidden by the net, but since the cables are mostly fastened to the underside, the net doesn't sag and stays mostly out of sight.


Since my computer is on a side table i use really long cables, and used one of these to go from the inside of the cable net to the back of the computer (https://www.amazon.com/Black-Split-Tubing-Cover-Marine/dp/B00J7SAHTK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543598333&sr=1-3&keywords=plastic+cable+sleeve). There are more modern looking ones, i just happened to like the "industrial" look of this one, if you could call it that...

​

Hope that helps! I know for me, once i got started seriously trying to take care of the cable situation, all the ideas on how to make it better just come to you as you are doing it. Figuring out where to start is often the hard part :D

u/kill-dash-nine · 4 pointsr/homelab

So when I originally moved in to my house last year, I set things up in a very temporary setup that became more permanent than I was hoping. I also had to bring another box home from my office when we moved locations and we no longer had a dedicated internet connection so I couldn't expose anything directly to the internet.

I've been looking at setups from everyone for a while now, getting ideas of what I needed and I finally settled on the following:

u/cafebandito · 4 pointsr/malelivingspace

I just moved into a new place, so I've had the opportunity to upgrade a lot of my stuff.

Here's my list (sorted by value it provides to me)

  • Velcro Ties - These are amazing for cable management and keeping things neat. Best purchase for under $10 I've made probably in my life.
  • LED Edison Bulbs - I just discovered that these exist and they provide WAY less heat than standard bulbs, even the LEDs I had before. They're great for my small apartment that likes to get hot from light.
  • Dish Rack - Unfortunately the new place doesn't have a dishwasher, but with this dish rack I can clear off some counter space normally dedicated to a standard size dish rack. It is a bit smaller, which is kind of a bummer, but it will encourage me to put the dishes away after they're dried.
  • Cutting board with cutting mats - Nice because you don't have to wash off the entire board if you cut on it. My old wooden one started to smell after using it for a bit, even with cleaning every time and using mineral oil. It's also nice for getting chopped foods over to a pot/pan.
  • Headphone stand - Not much practicality here at all, but it makes my desk look much cleaner than having the headphones just tossed on top.
u/lilmidjumper · 8 pointsr/HomeDecorating

Your TV is up WAY too high, i would adjust your hanging system to be at least a foot and a half lower than it currently is. You could always get make a TV/bookshelf wall unit to go around it. It covers wires, acts as storage, and fills the space without being in the way. I'd recommend a lighter toned wood color, like a grey or an oaky color. For concealing wires, a big help would already come from lowering your TV, but there are different options such as these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JKO8724/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_coT6CbESXX59N

But some people prefer to do the more hole-poking meeting of cutting a hole where the wire starts, and another hole near the outlet. I personally don't recommend that method especially since you're likely going to have studs in the way. But a thin, long tv console could easily cover a majority of the wires that bother you.

A good method for figuring out the size of furniture you want to buy is to outline the area of space you want the piece to take up using blue painters tape. You can easily adjust the dimensions, and you can run it up a wall to figure out height. Step backwards and sit where you normally would to see if you'd be okay with something that long/tall/wide and adjust until happy. Once you've found the basic dimensions you'd be happy with you can go online and start looking.

I personally wouldn't recommend a free hanging console if cords bother you, it won't conceal much. However if you're worried about a large tv console, you could try a few free hanging shelves below for storage, and some nice simple prints on the wall as well.

u/GamerLucif · 2 pointsr/desksetup

Not sure about cable management in the case for but the desk...


I believe thats a malm desk so it has the rack in the back which means adding another won't be easy (really everything doesn't fit?). You could try using something like this or this with some 3m tape so you can mount the cables on the bottom of the desk so they aren't hanging. You could also wrap the cables to decrease the amount of slack using something like this. Any cables coming from the back of the monitors or the desk you can try using this. You could consider mounting your surge protector on the desk if it is not already so that no cables are dangling down to it and the only thing would be the surge protector wire.

Additional things you could look into would be a boom arm for the mic so its not sitting in the middle, might clean it up a bit. Also, if you are really dedicated to making it look nice and don't tend to rearrange that often, you could look into drilling holes for the wires for the keyboard/mouse (I'm personally not a fan of this method but people do it).

It might take a bit of cash to do ALL of that so maybe just prioritize what you think will give the best results.

u/Panasonicy0uth · 1 pointr/battlestations

If you're averse to drilling into your desk like I was, here's what I used for my cable management with less room to work with than you, OP.

The Basic Stuff

2 x 40" Cable management sleeves- $14

30 x adhesive cable management clips- $7

50 x reusable velcro ties- $8

2 x Cable management bins- $23

The strongest double-sided 3M tape you can find- $10 at your local hardware store

Optional, but highly recommended

AmazonBasics Premium Dual Monitor Stand- $190

AmazonBasics 7 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 12V/3A Power Adapter- $27

AmazonBasics 4 Port USB 3.0 Hub with 5V/2.5A power adapter- $17

  • The cable management sleeves should be pretty self-explanatory, but they have the added benefit of having holes cut out already for more efficient cable routing.

  • The clips are useful if you have to route any cables under your desk or just need something to hold individually-wrapped cables in a convenient location under your desk.

  • The velcro ties are useful for organizing your cables before routing them through the sleeves. I prefer to group mine by audio, video, and peripherals, but you may prefer otherwise.

  • Use the cable management bins to hide your messy powerstrip and whatever else you may want to hide. They can also come in handy for routing cables in more complex A/V or music-production set-ups.

  • Powered USB hubs can be really helpful for reducing the number of cables you have to routing from your desk to your PC or from your desk to an outlet. They're also really convenient when you have a phone that needs charged, a new wireless dongle to plug in, or just plugging in your basic peripherals vs. having to reach around the back of your PC to do it. I keep the 7-port Amazon hub on my desk for my mouse/keyboard BT dongles, charging my phone, and when I need to occasionally plug in my mouse/keyboard. Meanwhile, I keep the 4-port hub 3M-taped to the bottom of my desk for when I need to plug in external HD/USB drives.

  • If you have the room in your budget and your monitors support VESA mounts, mounting your monitors would do wonders for your cable management and organization. I recommended Amazon's because I use their VESA mount for my 34" Viotek and it's sturdy as hell, so I imagine their double mount is just as good. That said, there's cheaper alternatives out there, but I just can't speak to their quality.
u/fuzzthegreatbambino · 2 pointsr/malelivingspace

This is a great little space! A couple small things could go a long way to liven it up a bit more. You've got a lot of neutrals in here (which I love, my room has a pretty similar vibe). You could easily add an accent color or two and it would really go well in here - green plants do a great job of this and work nicely with the neutral palette you've got now. As was mentioned already, a fiddle leaf fig would do great in this room. You could also go for a majesty palm if that's more your style. I'd go with something big and bold to fill up the space a little and bring some life into it. If I were you, I'd put it just to the left of the TV stand, and maybe get a good floor lamp to go in the corner on the other side of the TV stand. As it is right now, I don't see any lighting other than the window light and the overhead lights. A floor lamp in the corner and maybe another small lamp somewhere else would go a long way to make it feel more cozy and homey once the sun goes down. I agree with what was said about a bigger rug, too. You've got the space for it, go big!

Also, this is nit-picky, but some of these velcro cable ties could clean up the cords sticking out by the TV and make it look a little tidier. Cleaner = cozier in my opinion. I used to install & service custom home theaters for a living, and I used these bad boys every day for cable management. It's amazing what a difference it can make when you can't see any cables!

u/Ahnteis · 1 pointr/hometheater

Look into the wiremold then and see if you're OK w/ that. (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0015EA3P2/ paint it wall color to blend better)

I'd think you could get some used speakers even cheaper, but I'd think something like that would work for now considering your budget.

If your receiver supports 6ohm speakers, you could even go with these while you save up for something better.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=24738

I have a low-budget system myself, so I put most of my money into a projector and a Denon AVR-X1300W ($300) and bought these speakers: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=10565

It's not going to stand up to many of the systems in this sub, but it works great for my situation, and I can upgrade parts as I go.

u/Petit_Hibou · 8 pointsr/AmateurRoomPorn

You're off to a really great start! I have a few suggestions if you're looking for improvements. There are a lot of suggestions below, but that certainly doesn't indicate that what you've done isn't good. Rather, there are a lot of directions you can take the space and it's up to you to decide how to prioritize.

  • I would NOT get a second cabinet in that same style for the other side, but you do need to finish that side with the speaker. I suggest a basket and plants (see below).
  • I think you'd do great to change the curtains from a solid to a print to liven the space up slightly. The green color is fine, or you could go all-blue or yellow.
  • Get a large basket to store the blankets in so they're not draped over the couch (unless you need them to protect the couch from pets or kids).
  • I don't think the colors of your throw pillows on the couch really work. I'd stick with the blues and tans you already have in the room, but get a large bold pattern.
  • Get at least 2 plants-- one small one to go on the little cabinet, and one large floor one to go on the speaker side of the TV.
  • I'm not sure what the items on top of the cabinet are, but they're the wrong scale. Dress the cabinet up with stuff like a decorative vase, books, a large framed picture etc. Group items together in little clusters rather than spacing them out evenly, and try to vary the heights and textures.
  • It doesn't look like a conventional coffee table would work, but you want somewhere to set a beverage down near the couch. I suggest getting one or maybe two narrow end tables to go by the arms of the couch.
  • Lastly, I'd recommend getting a cable management sleeve to run along the floor on the speaker side to hid that power cord.
u/jaifriedpork · 0 pointsr/Multicopter

>I was wondering could I do the bigger battery but use velcro tape instead?

I don't know the 818 specifically, but as long as the wires and battery don't get in the way of the props, it should be fine. Be aware that bigger batteries weigh more, so you'll start to see diminishing returns as the extra capacity starts to overtake the power-to-weight ratio. (For the same reason, be careful not to overdo it with that velcro tape. If you don't have this stuff, get it. Best cable tie there is, you can cut it to length, it's light as a feather, and it's strong enough to hold a battery that weighs more than your quad does.)

I second what /u/shamus727 said, the more batteries you have, the better, but I know how to spell "batteries" so you can trust me. Also, spare props would not go amiss, they're generally pretty cheap, and even with those prop guards you'll probably lose a prop here and there.

u/HowDoIDoFinances · 1 pointr/oculus

Opposite corners, up as high as you can, so they're looking down at you seems to work best if you want 360 coverage with 2 sensors. Unfortunately, that'll probably require you to get extension cables, but they aren't that expensive. The front facing setup that Oculus recommends is really fast and really easy, but losing the ability to turn around in VR really hurts the experience, imo.

If you are able to buy a couple extension cables, I'd really consider trying to get them all the way up in a top corner of the room. You may want to consider a third sensor if you really want to go full room scale, too. I have three sensors mounted up high in 3 out of the 4 corners of my room (2 in front, one in back) and tracking is essentially flawless. It's a little bit of extra work to actually mount something to the wall, but it's worth it if you're setting it up for the long run. I used these mounts.

Having extension cables also gives you extra room to work with so that you can properly route the cables in a neat way instead of having them just hanging loose on the wall. I bought some cable concealers and they pretty much blend into the wall, so you really just see the sensor itself. Looks a lot nicer.

u/chemcalfarmr · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

so I offer you some hangers and velcro ties.

why do i want these items you ask? well first off, I need them to get my house in order. but secondly, both of them can be used for some NSFW fun...and no-one has to knoowww. ;) Schmad on my add on please! Congrats on the raise and thank you for the awesome contest!

u/Emerald_Flame · 1 pointr/buildapc

To add onto this, if a case doesn't have enough tie down points, you can get these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNBS6TG/

They just use 3m adhesive and give you more loops to attach zip-ties/velcro straps. They're also typically available at pretty much any local hardware store.

My personal favorite velcro straps are these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ They're pretty cheap, the have a decent strength hold, have a slot at one end for retention on a cable/mount if you want it, and are pretty thin, both in width and thickness. A lot of cheaper ones seem to be like 1" wide or more and super thick and bulky, making them hard to deal with.

u/Cpotter07 · 2 pointsr/networking

They make a few things for this if it does look tacky to me personally if you do not do it correctly or order the correct color/design to match your office but there are things like.

1.) CABLE CONCEALERS - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Concealer-Wall-Cover-Raceway/dp/B01JKO8724




2.) WIRE TRACKS - https://www.audioholics.com/trade-shows/2005-cedia-expo/wiretracks-molding-wiring-channels




3.) CABLE RACEWAYS - https://www.cableorganizer.com/surface-raceways/




4.) CABLE BLANKETS - https://www.homedepot.com/p/UT-Wire-5-ft-Cable-Blanket-Low-Profile-Cord-Cover-and-Protector-for-Floor-in-Grey-UTW-CPL5-GY/305038456





5.) TELEPOWER POLES - https://www.legrand.us/categories/wireandcablemanagement/poles-and-columns/aluminum-tele-power-poles.aspx





6.) POWER/DATA POLES - https://www.pinterest.com/pin/133348838942190815/


these are my favorite come in tons of nice designs that look amazing in offices!





7.) SPACE SYSTEM POWER POLES - https://www.fastofficefurniture.com.au/office-furniture/electrical-components/space-system-power-pole/


These I use the most since they are just plain white/black/brown square boxes that connect to the roof and connects directly to cubicles or the floor and run power/data/phone anything down these with lots of extra room they are simply easy to install but very plain looking.

u/Alphanos · 3 pointsr/everymanshouldhave

I could see something like that being useful for one or two cords that you use really frequently, but they're too expensive for something like cleaning up your tangled pile of 20-30 random cables. For cable storage, something like this is ideal. 100 reusable Velcro cable ties for $6.50.

Also, before trying out those cable ties, I hadn't realized there was a difference between Velcro (the brand) and velcro (generic). I was quite pleasantly surprised.

u/almightybeavis · 1 pointr/setups

Zipties are your best friend, you could even go a little extreme and drill some holes into your desk to fit the cables into comfortably. Or... you could just get a nice rail under your desk:

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Cable-Raceway-Black-Length/dp/B002DNM42O/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499954992&sr=8-6&keywords=cable+management

Really nice setup by the way! You don't see a lotta setups with multiple colors, pretty unique in my opinion.

u/Ditchmag · 1 pointr/oculus

I just adjusted the way I'm doing but and it's the best so far. Using a Velcro cable tie like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JXAhDb9P486Y9

Wrap it around the cable and loop the Velcro through the slot so you can have a set size that is a little larger than the cable. Now gently detach the foam on the back of the halo so you can get to the left of the knob (looking at it from the back. Wrap the Velcro around here in the flat spot between the plastic hooks that the foam uses. Make this a little snug, but don't crank it down. This is just to keep the cable floating there, but it can easily slide back and forth. Reattach the foam and it almost a factory look that works MUCH better.

u/LeftMySoulAtHome · 11 pointsr/GirlGamers

Hi! I also have chronic pain/am disabled. I play Steam games with an Xbox One controller with the Windows 10 wireless adapter. (I tried the Steam Controller but it was bulky, not intuitive, and I basically hated it. lol. YMMV.)

I have my tower sitting in this cabinet, which I covered with this film to keep everything hidden. My husband cut out the back of the cabinet to install a fan / make room for the cables to come out of the back.

We used these cord covers to keep everything neat.

I use this wall-mounted swing arm from Amazon for my monitor. I push it toward the wall when I am done. (I put my chair/station in the corner for this to work.)

I sit in an IKEA Poang chair with ottoman, using this lower lumbar cushion and this coccyx cushion.

I use this mouse arm on the Poang chair, these cushions for my elbows, and a beanbag rest for my wrist (for when I have to use the mouse).

My keyboard sits on a shelf beside me and I pull it onto a lap desk (stored under my chair) for when I need to use it.

I also have a wall mount for my Xbox One controller.

I hope that helps! It took me a long time to get something together that keeps my living room still looking like a living room. :)

u/n_nick · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Here is my build list formated for reddit

Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXLYE4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012N6EW6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTJZTZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Hitachi HD​S723020BLA​642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I60OGUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1CC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IUW7YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQRFY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN550AC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XWQF28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C99MUHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q5E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X0ZJZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2760&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10201&cs_id=1020101&p_id=3622&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030304&p_id=5435&seq=1&format=2
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVMHI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45NCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LVZO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHHP7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0IF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 | https://www.amazon.com/FUnc-FUNC-HS-260-1ST-fUnc-HS-260/dp/B00HH3H83U
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIPT30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAQD4YA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081ZBNI4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4N/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G3UK5C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWOJLSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00024BJZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJBENG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 | https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-GVRLA1850ND-Great-Value-LED-15W-A19-Light-Bulb/38596922
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052012&p_id=5795&seq=1&format=2
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052006&p_id=5834&seq=1&format=2
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ETIKH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1BWMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XQORTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5287&seq=1&format=2
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022809&p_id=7677&seq=1&format=2
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B81K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=12232&seq=1&format=2
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=3005&seq=1&format=2
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=4564&seq=1&format=2
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Common-2-in-x-8-in-x-10-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-7-25-in-x-10-ft-Lumber/4082916
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Stud/1000074211
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-3-in-Clamp/50214643
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-4-in-H-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Interior-Exterior-Mortise-Door-Hinge/4772785
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJSAAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Just_made_this_now · 1 pointr/buildapc

NZ represent!




Besides what Serptintine said about the mobo and 4690K, I'd stick an SSD in there as a boot drive.




I've actually been in the process of building a PC for the last few months, here are some things I've found:




  • If you decide to get an SSD, consider buying one through Amazon when one's on sale. Even including global shipping, it usually works out to be around half the price!

  • If a particular item from Amazon does not have global shipping, you can get it forwarded to you through NZ Post's service called YouShop
    Base price is $12.50, +$5 for every 500g. So essentially, minimum is $17.50. Make sure to group Amazon parcels into as few deliverables as possible. Amazon global shippping is almost always cheaper so check before you send to your YouShop US address.

  • Be aware that anything over about $300 USD will incur duty and GST. Usually works out to be low to mid $100. Keep this in mind before buying something through Amazon.

  • Time to buy SATA cables on Monoprice with any YouShop shipping. They are literally 50 cents. Cheapest you'll find here is like $5!

  • They also have cheap cable ties, but Amazon has some going for really cheap atm.

  • Keep an eye out for Computer Lounge sales. They have almost weekly codes on particular hardware through their newsletter, ranging from 10-20% off. You can either subscribe to their newsletter through email or follow them on Facebook. Free shipping is also a plus.

  • Avoid Playtech "sales", which are in the form of a code. Despite not being the cheapest to begin with, I've noticed they up their prices before a sale and they are usually out of stock. Either that, or they will have certain components as their 'play of the day' or some sort of 'special' coincidentally just before, and so their discount codes don't apply. Delivery will set you back at least $4.

  • Avoid PB Technologies. They are scum. They will skirt warranties if possible and have little understanding about the Consumer Guarantees Act.

  • Have a look on NewEgg NZ (change region and price to NZ) for fans. They have a wider selection compared to other places. Delivery is around $9 I believe as they ship from Australia.

  • NewEgg US restricts overseas credit cards (even if you do it through PayPal) so don't bother buying through them with the hope of forwarding through YouShop. You will be declined. You could try TigerDirect instead.

  • Do not buy extended warranties on anything. On top of the manufacturer's warranty, you are covered by the CGA if any parts fail after the manufacturer's warranty has lapsed under certain conditions, particularly if the retailer offers an extended warranty on a particular part. They are also now legally obligated to tell you your rights under the CGA before trying to sell you an extended warranty.





    Feel free to ask me any questions.
u/zanfar · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

> going to connect everything with solid shielded CAT6

You do you, but that's overkill. Unshielded is sufficient in almost any non-industrial application. Shielded is also far harder to terminate and requires more expensive equipment to test.

Solid-core is only for structured cable. As long as you're not making patch cables or terminating to male ends, you're good on that front.

CAT5 is also sufficient unless you want 10Gb speeds, but I realize that CAT6 is sometimes cheaper today.

> what is a good patch panel?

Reputable brand (APC, Panduit, Tripp Lite, Cyber Power, Monoprice, Chatsworth) or reputable consumer-grade (NavePoint, StarTech, Cable Matters). You want to max your ports-per-RU, even if you don't expect to expand. Adding a port is far better than having to replace a patch panel.

For a home network, I would suggest a keystone or modular panel for increased flexibility. Then you would also need to buy keystone IDC, RJ-45 jacks to insert into it. The beauty of modular panels is that you can move jacks around as the network changes, and you can add additional patch types: like coax, phone, or fiber to the same panel. Keystones can also be color-coded for convenience (red for PoE-required, yellow for uplinks/trunks, white orange for critical devices, etc).

This is where I'd start.

> correct me if I'm wrong, I'm a newbie

Nothing obviously wrong with your plan, but just in case I missed something:

Solid core cable from RJ-45 to RJ-45, preferably run inside the wall. From keystone to device purchase pre-terminated patch cables from Monoprice or Cable Matters. Don't make your own patch cables. When punching down cable you should have a decent IDC, snap-action punch down tool and a 8-wire continuity tester.

u/Lianad311 · 2 pointsr/CableManagement

Your post may be deleted for violating Rule 2 just FYI.

Here are my recommendations though:

  • Mount the surge protector under your desk using heavy duty double stick tape or screws if it has keyholes
  • For your keyboard/mouse cables. If you're willing, the best way is to drill a hole just large enough that they can fit through. Drill it underneath where your large mousemat is. Then cut a tiny slit in the mousemat for them to come through. You can then feed them under down through and under the desk.
  • Mount your USB hub under the desk on the front off to the left or right side from where you sit using command strips or double stick tape. Easy access to plugin items when needed and just unplug devices when not using. If you're using the ports 100% of the time, it may be better to mount it under the desk towards the back out of the way. I use mine only for short term things like pluging in a headset, SD card reader, etc. So when I'm done I just unplug them and it's clean.
  • Under the desk you're going to want to buy some cable clamp type things. Depending on your types of wires you may need a few different sizes. I've bought tiny ones for single thin cables, medium ones for a usb or two, and xlarge ones for power cords/hdmi/multiple cables
  • Depending on your situation, you could also pick up the IKEA Signum rack for under the desk to help with things, or a J Channel cableracewaytype sitution
  • With all of the management and running things under the desk, I personally found I needed to buy a few extenders for different things. So I had to pick up a couple of USB 3 extension cables, as well as a couple of power extension cables so I could get things all cleanly routed then down/up at one single point to the outlet or computer.

    Any other questions just ask. I could always take pictures of my setup and under the desk if it would help, just PM me for those.
u/b1gfreakn · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I recently went on a cable management spree myself. I looked at baskets but ended up going with a cable box and Velcro ties.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0019T0J9S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1453832556&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=bluelounge+cable+box&dpPl=1&dpID=31X9MbzH8jL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001E1Y5O6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453832946&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=velcro+cable+ties&dpPl=1&dpID=31SGEFLLv%2BL&ref=plSrch

These are aweomse and highly recommend them to anyone trying to tidy up their station.

Anyway, congrats on a clean station, op, it's looking really awesome.

u/KenGoesBRAP · 8 pointsr/synthesizers

LOL! The dirty secret?

I have two cats, brothers, Mario and Luigi. Luigi's mellow, never a problem. Mario likes to chew on things, the more expensive and less replaceable, the better. After the second mouse and a set of reference headphones lost, I'm now religious about neatly cabling everything lest he get the idea that my patch cables (or the USB ones for that matter) are there for his amusement.


Velcro ties are your friends, best thing ever. I learned to like them about 20 years ago on my first civilian job post military, wiring up computer labs in schools - they're absolutely fantastic and so cheap you'll be embarrassed you don't already have some. I get mine from Amazon 100 at a time for about $10.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/xSnoooze · 1 pointr/CableManagement

Little bit late, but I used this on this inner bottom of my desk, right against the bottom of the desktop. It's awesome and super easy. Just peel and stick adhesive on the back and it holds a bunch of cables. It would work the same along the backside of a desk as well.

Cable Raceway

u/Please_Wave · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Alex Tech 25ft - 1 inch Cord Protector Wire Loom Tubing Cable Sleeve Split Sleeving For USB Charger Cable Power Cord Audio Video Cable – Protect Cat From Chewing Cords - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FW3MKGH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IFo0CbT7FDW0S


Pasow 50pcs Cable Ties Reusable Fastening Wire Organizer Cord Rope Holder 7 Inch (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0154MS9Q0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tGo0CbCF1T2B0


eBoot 100 Pieces Adhesive Cable Clips Wire Clips Cable Wire Management Wire Cable Holder Clamps Cable Tie Holder for Car, Office and Home https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HR9VS4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0Go0Cb8EVVNYV


Plus some other materials i probably missed but a quick amazon search of “Cable Management” on amazon can start to trigger some awesome ideas.

You really gotta sit there and stare at it and think how you can hide everything, neatly and routed in a way thats easy to clean. Having my monitors wall mounted allowed me to use the brackets to hide the long monitor power cords and hdmi cables i was also able to mount a power strip behind there so it was easier to power things while hiding wires.

u/sonsofaureus · 4 pointsr/malelivingspace

You might have tried this already, but how about instead of your back to the wall, the desk goes up against the same wall? This will help with the following:

  1. Cable management - cables hide between the desk and the wall, reducing visible, but not actual clutter. If you're really anal about it, these cheap things will help with cable organization grommet drill + some velcro cable ties
  2. Awkard positioning - if you mean you're bumping your head when you stand up (perhaps making the soundproof foam on the slanted wall necessary), placing the desk against that wall will create more headroom
  3. You have the PC with the front side facing away from you - maybe to avoid having the clear panel on the PC case facing the wall. The PC+the cabinet it's sitting on moves to your left in the new desk position, stays on that cabinet/extension thing, except it's front facing now. This provides some shade cover for your monitor from the recessed window to the left (the one with the shoes), reducing glare. Better yet, measure your windows and go to HomeDepot/Lowes and buy some roll down shades or blinds.
  4. Couch eventually gets added with its back against the wall with the wine fridge, with that rug between the space between desk and couch.
  5. TV gets wall mounted on the slanted wall the desk is put against. Get a TV mount with tilt &/or get a low-sitting futon/laydown couch to achieve comfortable viewing angles.
  6. Get a pool table where the rug is sitting. If it won't fit, at least a foosball table.
u/jasongill · 3 pointsr/cableporn

I had ~10 racks with almost the exact same setup (same racks, same servers, very similar cable layout and switch position).

My advice to you is to tie the cables off in such a way that they are not touching the rack rails. Those hooks you see on the left side of the photo on the rack rails? They move with the server and love to catch the ethernet cables. Similar situation happens on the side with the power cables, although not as bad due to different cable management attachment point on the other side.

You will say to yourself, but sir, I will always be sure to power the server off and then disconnect all cables before removing it from the rack! - likely very true statement. However, no one else will give 2 shits about it and will do the old "I'll just pull this server out a half inch so I can go around back and tell which one it is" trick, which then pulls your ethernet cables into the pinch-n-cut hook, and the power cables pull out. Then your life gets worse :)

I suggest getting some of the really thin Velcro cable wraps like these - http://amzn.com/B001E1Y5O6?tag=amz-link-20 - then apply them liberally to keep stuff tied back and out of the way. They are really thin and don't get in the way like the thicker expensive ones do so they work great for actually tying the cables directly to the sliding section of the rack rails.

u/rabidfurby · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I think they meant something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Mount-24-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVT02/

"Keystone patch panel" is the search term you want. And don't buy your keystone jacks individually, buy them in bulk. They'll be much cheaper:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW/

If you look throughout your house where the ethernet ports are, there's a good chance they're also keystone jacks. Picture these, with those keystone jacks slotted in to them:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plate-2-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVU8S/

Also, if you've never used it before, https://www.monoprice.com/ is your new best friend. I'd recommend always comparing prices between them and Amazon before buying something.

u/kenzanboo · 2 pointsr/boostedboards

Any Velcro will do but this is the one I got. The length fits this lock diameter perfectly so it takes a second or two to strap each one down each time.

VELCRO Brand ONE WRAP Thin Ties | Strong & Reusable | Perfect for Fastening Wires & Organizing Cords | Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch | 100 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hypvDb7RAC3YA

u/TJHeinzo · 2 pointsr/Battletops

I've never really seen the pegboard before honestly but it just came to me. I wouldn't recommend it though, it took a bunch of time and is only for someone who likes doing organization. As far as cable management tips:

  1. My desk, the Alex from Ikea, actually has a compartment built in for cable management which is great.

  2. If you already have a desk maybe THIS would work for you,I'm planning on using this on my next desk.

  3. And if you wanna just do basic cable management, I can't recommend THESE enough. They're cheap, reusable, and work great. You could also add a SLEEVE to keep the wires together.
u/Lemon_barr · 2 pointsr/Rabbits

Cables generally should be protected but your rabbit might not even be interested. Usually if they can’t see something they won’t care about it. Your 3D printer and larger pieces of plastic are generally safe. Rabbits like to find small threads and pull at them so big chunks of plastic and glass don’t really do it for them. In general cable management is good practice and satisfying. I hate the look of the rubber hose sleeves so I keep everything in cable runners and boxes. If I’m not using it then I tuck it away.

Simple Cord Cable Concealer On-Wall Cord Cover Raceway Kit - Cable Management System to Hide Cables, Cords, or Wires - Cord Organizer for Wall Mounted TVs and Computers at Home or in The Office https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JKO8724/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M6U0DbYGEWNRR


D-Line CC-1 Light Duty Floor Cord Cover/Cable Protector | Protect Cords and Prevent a Trip Hazard | 6 Foot Length | Cable Cavity 3/4" (W) x 3/8" (H) | Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0078NU4C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a8U0Db5JJH0BY


Bluelounge CableBox Cable and Cord Management System,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019T0JA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x8U0Db8A72131

u/peejaysayshi · 6 pointsr/beyondthebump

You could use cord tracks if you can't just put them behind furniture. We used that for our ceiling lamp cord since we don't actually have an electrical box in the ceiling to put a light up. If they're super determined they could probably pull it off the wall, but honestly if they're super determined there's probably not a whole lot you can do. :P

u/VRegg · 9 pointsr/Vive

This is what I came up with when trying to find the best way to prevent a long dangling headphone cable from interfering with gameplay. I found it to be a comfortable option and easily reusable. Plus it has the benefit of looking really cute.

Tips-

  • Have the soft part of the velcro facing out. This will improve comfort and prevent hair from getting caught.
  • Leave some slack on the tie. This will allow the extra cable to be pulled out in the event it is yanked.
  • If you have a really long/heavy cable try centering it at the top and use two ties. This will help center the weight.

    These are the ties I used http://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-ONE-WRAP-Reusable-Light-Black/dp/B000F5K82A But you can get them at about any store.

    In case anyone is wondering the headphones are the Panasonic Retro RP-HTX7-K1. They aren't the best compared to higher end options but are a good, durable option for $40.
u/M_A_Draco · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Just undid five years worth of accumulated mess. Saw the beautiful workstations on this channel, and just couldn't take the cognitive dissonance anymore.

The before-and-after pics are available here: https://imgur.com/a/cjznWXZ

Installed a raceway and new power strips under the desk. The project took about four hours or so.

This channel had tons of great product and technique suggestions, and this YouTube video was also extremely helpful: https://youtu.be/Uc01oUqmxhE

Here's what I ended up using:

u/drfoqui · 1 pointr/buildapc

I looked at both recently and ended up going for the I. The II have USB and also 7.1 surround IIRC but in headphones, the surround is not real, it's a virtual 7.1 recreated through the two headphones you have so I really didn't think is was worth the extra money. There may be some other small features, though, but I'm perfectly happy with the I.

One suggestion to avoid tangling is routing the cable carefully around your desk with a solution like this or something similar.

Also get a headphone stand or holder if you don't have one and build the habit of hanging the headphones facing forward, i.e. without turning it 180°, which I feel is a fairly intuitive thing to do unfortunately, so that you don't spin the cable every time to put the headphone on and off.

u/nubgrub · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I second this. What /u/team_xbladz linked is pretty good, especially for the price (I use a white version for my wires). A bit more expensive are [plastic sleeves] (https://www.amazon.com/Wiremold-CMK10-Mate-Cord-Organizer/dp/B0015EA3P2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1473185744&sr=8-6&keywords=cable+hider). It would probably cost $60-90 though to do your whole room. You could paint them the color of what you need as well. Lowes and HomeDepot usually have a good selection of cable hiders. They look pretty good when set up, especially if you match them with the base board color.

u/deepak483 · 1 pointr/StandingDesks

I have these under my desk

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BVYW7UY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_o6CRDbQ8HP2E5

super easy to do just with 3M Velcro strips attached under the table.

Add some wire sleeves and your good to enjoy the clutter free view.

u/pork-belly · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

-cable tray(s) $22 - perfect for screwing into a think desk like yours, power strips can live in here as well

-nylon/velcro ties $7 - possibly cheaper at your local hardware store

With kush white walls like that a lil cable management might improve how you feel walking in every day!

Nice setup. Foot warmer could use some RGB tho

u/NauticalBustard · 9 pointsr/Hue

Get some velcro cable ties; tie everything headed to a common component together. ie. all the power cords conecting to a certain power bar, tie them together. All the HDMI cables connecting to the TV, etc.

All the cords going to the right-hand side of the entertainment unit, bundle them together and tie them to the unit's centre-right vertical support column/leg (preferably the one in the back). White velcro cables ties might blend in better here. Do the same for the centre-left column/leg and components on that side.

For the big rat's nest in the back, bundle the surplus power brick cord lengths together with cable ties and either hide the tied bundles behind the component it powers, or tuck it under the entertainment unit out of sight.

Snip the surplus ends of the wrapped cable ties so they are neat and not rolled up into little cinnamon rolls.

Because the entertainment unit is so open, you're not going to be able to completely hide everything. It doesn't all have to be hidden, it just has to look organised.

u/BoopityBoop1 · 12 pointsr/GirlGamers

Honestly the best thing you could do for your setup right now is cable management. You can get reusable velcro zip ties from Amazon or Walmart or someplace like that. I’d also recommend getting little figures or plushies of your favorite characters to add some more of your personality to the area

u/mcv_10 · 1 pointr/BurningMan

Super rad looking lights. Hope to see this upclose on the playa!

I've used velcro zip ties with a lot of success. I felt it was my way of minimizing my moop levels while also harnessing the awesome power of velcro.

u/XenIsNotVerySmart · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Great setup! I have a few quick and easy suggestions. To clean up the setup, get some stuff off of the desk. You can use this headphone hanger (https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Headphone-Headset-Hanger-Holder/dp/B06Y3XG769/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=stainless+steel+headphone+under+desk&qid=1550788167&s=gateway&sr=8-3) and just stick it up to the bottom of your desk. You could also try buying a cable box (https://www.amazon.com/Multipurpose-Ventilated-Cable-Box-Management/dp/B06XXGWW55/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=cable+box&qid=1550788313&s=gateway&sr=8-5) to hide the power strip and then some cable sleeves (https://www.amazon.com/gp/slredirect/picassoRedirect.html/ref=pa_sp_phone_search_atf_aps_sr_pg1_1?ie=UTF8&adId=A01221601V9IX8PNJM5J1&url=%2FManagement-Sleeve-JOTO-Computer-Entertainment%2Fdp%2FB015HWXG4M%2Fref%3Dmp_s_a_1_1_sspa%3Fkeywords%3Dcable%2Bsleeve%26qid%3D1550788342%26s%3Dgateway%26sr%3D8-1-spons%26psc%3D1%26smid%3DA2C3SMXXIDC93V&qualifier=1550788342&id=5936119191257&widgetName=sp_phone_search_atf) to hide the cables going to and from. Also, you can just remove some stuff from the floor around it, and get a cable raceway (https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Cable-Raceway-Black-Length/dp/B002DNM42O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=cable+raceway+j&qid=1550788397&s=gateway&sr=8-3) to assist with the cables under the desk. Great setup! I highly approve of the mic mounting position, but align the right speakers angle with the left (OCD lol). The most important thing is probably the cable box (I'm a cable management nerd. Hope what I said helps.

TL:DR

Cable box for power strip and cable sleeves for wires to and from, hook for Corsairs (I think?), Declutter.

u/armadachamp · 2 pointsr/guitarpedals

I've used velcro straps on mine to great success, and I'm in a similar boat with the Classic 2 and a Phoenix power supply. I connect two or three of those straps together and wrap them around the power supply and the top crossbar, one near each end of the power supply so as not to block the plugs. I also put a small piece of regular adhesive velcro on both the power supply and the underside of the board to keep the power supply from sliding.

It keeps the power supply securely mounted, costs very little, is easily removable and reusable if I need to move anything, and doesn't interfere with the velcro on top that the pedals need to stick to.

u/freespace303 · 13 pointsr/hometheater

Good on you for going with a gigantic screen. Plenty of upgrade potential sound system wise as well. What projector are you using? Short throw?

A few recommendations - bring those fronts down to ear level, and rears down to about the recommended height of 3 feet above ear level when you are sitting. You could use a stand for the left rear - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HZHUCW/

If your worried about stand stability, use a barbell weight on top of the baseplate to weigh the stand down and make it more secure - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003072HC4/

Cable channels will help hide your cables really nicely - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015EDVVU/

u/miken77386 · 2 pointsr/DIY

If you don't end up being able to go into the wall to hide cables you could try a paintable cable hider...not as pretty as putting them in the wall but kind of the next best thing...can be a good temporary solution...something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Wiremold-CMK30-30-inch-Screen-Cover/dp/B0015EA3NO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1487860247&sr=8-5&keywords=cable+hider

u/ScienceGuyBillNye · 1 pointr/multicopterbuilds

Thank you for the information! I'll definitely go with smaller props - although if the bigger ones do happen to fit, would I be fine using those?

I'd really like to go with a taranis, if a sale comes up in the future I'll probably snag one. For now, being a beginner, I'll have to learn to hate the 9x so I can love the taranis - haha.

I do have a bunch (100+) of velcro straps from amazon. Specifically these. They might work out? I might grab a rubberized strap just because they're so cheap anyways.

As for the buzzer - I've seen the HobbyKing™ Lipoly Low Voltage Alarm (2s~4s) posted around, might grab 3 or 4 as you suggested.

Thanks again for the advice - it's very helpful to a noob like myself.

u/sup3rs3cr3t · 2 pointsr/StandingDesk

I wanted to share a couple pictures of the desk set up and also some of the accessories I purchased. My expirience with Fully was great. I got the Jarvis3 with Walnut veneer in a72x60 size. The frame was delivered about 3 days later and the desk top about a week after purchase. The quality is everything I expected! This thing is heavy and stable at all heights. I love this desk!

Pics:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E7Vi_PN-sxrfnujw9ZgXZTnQwUT8dTyeLA/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LBK9sdiy9oULc-dOgY7ElnAcd45jkCCloQ/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L56J3IP3A9cVEiPSgyNNANwCjJIY4P3blA/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N0TaD-U1OJlcw7mq8sihXH_obmELsdRv6A/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Mw-c-78JU_MAIraOlL56jLZuFK-l0lQMDA/view?usp=sharing

Accessories
I decided to get the keyboard tray and accessories from Amazon. The keyboard tray is probably going back because it is difficult to move back and forth.
Keyboard Tray Here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M2319VR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Anchor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P31BMHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wiretamers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BVYW7UY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

VESA adapter for old Samsung Monitor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YFDQKS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dual Monitor Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018MSDG84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Clips for wire management: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071L91LBH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Long Power strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036DEC48/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/KeyserSOhItsTaken · 1 pointr/battlestations

Honestly looks great. I think the only thing that could be done better is cable management. Buy some of these and bundle the cables coming off the back of the tower. Small hole under your mouse pad to route the kb/m cables under the desk. Put a small hole behind the shelf to route those power cables from behind the desk. Honestly I feel like I'm just nitpicking because this looks great.

u/avramce · 3 pointsr/gamecollecting

As everyone said, immediate win would be zip-ties or velcro to manage the excess length, you can get a 100M spool of twist ties from a dollar store or homedepot or online. For the more permanent cables like the power cables, you can fix them to the back wall with wire channels, for the power bricks, you can free them from the powerstrip with either a power squid or a short extension cable. Lastly, for multiple cords that are going in the same direction or through the same hole on your entertainment center, consider a cable sleeve to clean up the look.

u/fatmandown · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DNM42O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the 48" version but they make shorter ones. The stick-on tape on the back is surprisingly good, but if you're really going to weigh it down with heavier cables you may want to put some extra adhesive on the back. So far I love it.

u/Chimeros · 3 pointsr/Vive

I've been using a sleeve for cables that does a great job preventing this. It won't stop it forever, but it takes way more to get it tight and tangled. I can usually go through a play session of several hours without it bunching up on itself, then I just untangle what little bit is there when I'm done. This is the sleeve, and I secure it to the cables with these. It works beautifully.

u/WhatPlantsCrave · 11 pointsr/cableporn

The "Type" of cable fastener absolutely does make all of the difference depending upon the application.

In many applications cable or "zip" ties are not allowed due to toxic fumes given off when they are heated. Many users tend to over tighten cable ties thus damaging the cable jacket or conductor vs velcro.

In the case of aircraft or high vibration scenarios the type of cable fastener used is highly regulated.

In the end remember there are Redditors from around the globe here that are not only home users but also many that work with cable fasteners day to day in the work that they do. I have been known to post a link to this set of velcro from Amazon to those that complain about price.

If this were my setup I would cringe at the crimped coax cable. It's totally worth redoing, using a compression fitting instead. Those tools can be found at your local hardware store, online or just befriend a cable guy and hand him a few bucks to remake the end. It will take him a minute or less.

Thx OP for the post, IMO anything better than a nest of cables is better in the end. I highly prefer velcro.

u/curiequark · 1 pointr/DIY

If you ever have to replace the cables, try these instead of zip ties. :)

Desk looks super awesome. I'm going to be setting up a new desk once we move, and now I'm inspired.

u/random12356622 · 1 pointr/Dashcam

> Any advice on hardwiring? If I get the F50, It sounds like Ill need a pro to install it.

If you really really want to pay someone else to install it, buy a more expensive camera:

BlackSys CH-100B 2-Channel ($269.99 USD)

Thinkware F770 2-CH ($360 - $10 = $350 USD)

BlackVue DR650S-2CH($360 - $10 = $350 USD)

Hardwiring: Start at the fuse box. So when I hardwired my first dash camera, the cord was 1 inch too short, and I had already applied the adhesive strip to the window. (1) Move the dash camera, hard didn't do this or (2) readjusted the entire kit <- Did this one.

Locate Fuse box(es): Generally there are 2 fuse boxes in a vehicle, some have 3: (1) Under the hood (don't use this one), (2) Under the dashboard Driver/Passenger side (Most use this one) (3) Some, but most vehicles all have a fuse box in the trunk, and some people have to use this one (but not most.) - Consult your owner's manual. (Googling youtube videos of your vehicle model/make/year + Fusebox location also helps.)

Tap a Fuse or Add a fuse: If it is included in your kit, great, if not purchasing one makes the job a lot easier ($1-5 USD). Tap A fuse/Add a fuse should match your vehicle, and there are different types: ATO, Mini, Low Profile Mini, Micro2.

If you look at the Tap a Fuse/Add a fuse, you will see 2 slots: 1st slot protects your vehicle (use the fuse you pulled out of your vehicle), 2nd slot protects your dash camera (1-5 amp fuse - Sometime have them included in the kit, others purchased separately.)

Always on vs only on when ignition is on: Parking mode dash cams should be plugged into an Always on slot in your fuse box. (Generally there is a powered, but unused slot, rear wipers works great.)

Most non parking mode dash cams are plugged into a fuse slot that is only powered when the vehicle is on. (Avoid Airbags, alarm system, Headlights, ignition system, air conditioner and other sensitive or high voltage fuses.) - Cig Lighter is a common choice for this type, test if it is always on or ignition only by using it while key is not in vehicle.

Ground wire: Find a bolt that is not painted, unscrew it slightly, put ground wire connector behind it, screw it back in. - Sounds hard, is not, generally there is one located in or near the fuse box. (This completes the circuit, Fuse box (positive), Ground wire (negative.)

Hiding wires: Most vehicles you can hide the wires in the weather stripping of the vehicle, and the headliner. If not buy wire clips. - I hid mine in the weather stripping; You can see 1 wire, but it is hard to notice since I followed the natural lines of the vehicle's interior.

Or the other option: You can take apart the A pillar, and hide the wires in there (not suggested.)

There are almost an endless series of videos of how to install a dash camera, watch a few.

> But I have a bigger question: does hardwiring not hurt the battery life of the car? Are there drawbacks like the car not starting if it takes up too much juice in park mode?

The Thinkware F50 has built in low voltage protection, and a timer cut off.

There are drawbacks to using your car's battery, most car batteries are Cranking batteries (meant to give you a short burst of energy to start your vehicle, and then rapidly recharged.)

Some (very few) have a hybrid battery - It is a mixture of deep cycle (long use) and a cranking battery. Deep Cycle batteries are for like powering a radio with the engine off on a boat. Generally in this setup you would have 1 cranking, and 1 deep cycle (like on a boat).

While in parking mode dash cams only write to the Micro SD card when motion is detected. Excellent Parking mode dash cams are low power while in park mode, discreet enough to not attract unwanted attention, and buffered (records a few seconds before motion is detected, and a few seconds after.) - The Thinkware F50 has this.

I am actually not familiar with the Thinkware F50 menu options, but many can be set to different voltage levels/timers.

u/jjeff123 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Cat5e should be sufficient for any house. Really. You can get gigabit speeds on that, which is good for 20 simultaneous 4K video streams, plus another dozen or so netflix HD streams. Really, GigE is fine.
Source: http://blogs.iis.net/alexzam/archive/2013/01/28/h-265-hevc-ratification-and-4k-video-streaming.aspx

The only time I'd recommend cat6a is if you, right now, have a home application which routinely requires greater than 500 Mbit/s. The extra cost for cat6a isn't worth it, and the cost of 10G components is still quite high (for the home)

Wire cat5e from each place you might want a phone, TV or media device. My living room has 4 cat5e drops (TV, blu-ray, xbox, Roku) back to your panel box area.

Secure them to the joists in the ceiling with J-hooks, not staples, please.
http://store.cablesplususa.com/jhook225pk.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=20005783933&utm_content=pla&gclid=CMvZ5vG4nLoCFQSf4AodMRsAiA

If you're feeling cheap, get some anchors and small zip ties. Screw the anchors to the joists, peel and stuck will come loose.
http://www.amazon.com/Startech-HC102-Adhesive-Cable-Mounts/dp/B00008VFBE/ref=pd_sim_e_4

At the walls, use keystone jacks and wall plates
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10517&cs_id=1051703&p_id=6734&seq=1&format=2

Don't forget the low voltage box
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?seq=1&format=2&p_id=7016&CAWELAID=1329454251&catargetid=320013720000010679&cadevice=c&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CLuwocO8nLoCFYWe4AodtF4AmQ

and use a proper patch panel in the basement
http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=105&cp_id=10514&cs_id=1051402&p_id=7255&seq=1&format=2

Don't save the labeling for last, you won't remember. Label things as you go.
I have a brother labeler, which works really well.
http://www.brother-usa.com/Labeling_Solutions/ModelDetail/7/PT18R/Overview#.Ul8cOFBwqsM

I stress the cat5e thing as being good enough because people very often think that they need cat6a or somehow their 15Mb/s turbo internet package will be bottlenecked. The only project I've ever worked on where cat6a made sense was for a public works project in NYC, where the labor rate was $105/hour. For them, it made sense to buy the best cable money could buy.

u/Reinkere · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

My asshole dear bunnies love chewing them and have more than once broken the optic fiber Internet cables so we ended up buying cable covers/organizers which stick to the wall like these ones: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Concealer-Wall-Cover-Raceway/dp/B01JKO8724

I hope that helps more than having to hide them while you pray for them not to discover the cords.

(Really cute cat, by the way)

u/freakingwilly · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
  1. Rotate the vertical monitor 180° so the cables go towards the PC rather than looping around the back of the monitor. This should help with some clutter.
  2. Invest in a good surge protector. Belkin's 12 port version is $19 on Amazon. I have one for my PC and another for my media center. Highly recommended. The two you have will likely not protect you in the event of a surge. The beige one is likely old and may become a fire hazard in the future, especially with carpet.
  3. Ditch the twist ties and go with Velcro cable ties. They're black, so they will blend well with your desk. 100 for $9 comes out to 9 cents each.
  4. I know you were excited, but... please vacuum.

    Other than those minor nitpicks, it looks plenty comfortable. Do you use the crossbar as a foot rest?
u/chubbysumo · 5 pointsr/homelab

good god, use a keystone based system. They are so much easier to work with. Get a keystone based patch panel like this and then get as many cat6 keystones as you need. These will also be what goes behind the wall plates. Way easier to work with, way easier to rearrange, and way easier to add later.

u/NandoMusicNet · 1 pointr/battlestations

I ordered these reusable Velcro ties on Amazon.

They are great because you get 100 of them for cheap and they allow you to easily correct mistakes or add new cables. Also, they don't strangle and damage your wires like zip ties do, and removing them does not require cutters... Ya know, since they're Velcro. You can even string them together to make large loops that can hold your cables against your desk's legs.

Here is a pic of them in action.

I hope that helps!

u/redrage97 · 1 pointr/computertechs

never seen one 'fool' proof. When you got people swearing by them you have someone that hasn't been screwed by one yet lol.

sure sure.. some of that could be user error.. but if you make a user error on something like this you don't have to re-run the whole cable.

plus tacking something down on a wall looks kinda well aweful where as something like this looks pretty good when done decently.. but more work.

EDIT: if you read the last part of my first comment i said you probably won't damage it.. but that one time.... you know.. murphy's law.

u/MamaTran · 28 pointsr/battlestations
Parts List & More

Type|Item
--|:--
Case|IN WIN 101 Mid Tower High Air Flow Gaming Case w/ Tempered Glass Full Size Window (White)
CPU|Intel® Core™ Processor i7-7700K 4.20GHZ 8MB Intel Smart Cache LGA1151 (Kaby Lake)
Case Fan|3x 120mm AZZA Hurricane RGB Fans
CPU Cooler|Thermaltake Floe Riing RGB 240mm Premium Edition Liquid CPU Cooling System w/ Copper Cold Plate (2 x Standard 120MM Fans)
SSD|240GB WD Green Series SATA-III 6 SSD
HDD|Seagate 3TB 64MB Cache 7200RPM SATA III 6.0Gb/s
RAM|XPG Z1 Gaming Series 16GB DDR4-3000 Dual Channel DDR4 Kit, CL16 (2x 8GB), White
Motherboard|ASUS ROG Strix Z270E Gaming ATX w/ RGB, USB 3.1, 3 PCIe x16, 4 PCIe x1, 6 SATA3, 2 M.2 SATA/PCIe
OS|Windows 10 Home (64-bit Edition)
Power Supply|600 Watts - Standard 80 Plus Certified Power Supply - SLI/CrossFireX Ready
Video Card|GeForce® GTX 1060 3GB GDDR5
Monitor|Dell S2415h 24-Inch x 3
Monitor Stand|VIVO Single Stand & VIVO Dual Stand
Headset|Steelseries Arctis 7
Headset Stand|Avantree Universal Aluminum Desk Headphone Stand Hanger with Cable Holder
Keyboard|Logitech K780 Multi-Device Wireless Keyboard
Mouse|Logitech MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse (White)
Webcam|Logitech HD Pro Webcam C920
Plants|Artificial Plants, Amyhomie Set of 4 Mini Fake Succulent Plants
Desk|98x1 1/8" EKBACKEN Kitchen Counter Top resting on two White ALEX Drawers. There's also two OLOV White Adjustable Legs underneath for support.
Laptop|Apple 13" MacBook Air 256GB SSD 2015 Model
Laptop Stand|Vertical Laptop Stand Holder by MOTONG
Laptop Skin|Solid State White Skin by DecalGirl
Mini Fridge|Danby DAR017A3WDB Contemporary Classic Compact All Refrigerator, White
Lamp|Studio Designs 12024 Swing Arm Lamp, 13-watt, White
Lamp Bulb|TP-Link Multicolour Smart LED Bulb
Wallpaper|Nathan Nyx on ArtStation
Wall Scrolls|Tokyo Ghoul, No Game No Life, Attack On Titan, Seven Deadly Sins
Console|Nintendo Switch - Gray Joy-Con
Console Skin|Solid State White by DecalGirl
Controller|Nintendo Switch Pro Controller
Cable Management|Reusable Velcro Cable Ties, 2 x White Cable Raceway Channels, and 2 x White Cable Box
USB Charger|RAVPower 60W 12 A 6-Port USB Charger
Router|Linksys Velop Tri-band Whole Home WiFi Mesh System 2-Pack
Trash Bin|FILUR (White)
u/JohnBooty · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I feel ya. Yeah, ditch the zip ties forever, that's the worst strategy.

You can stick these on the back of your furniture and cleanly route your cables down the legs and such: https://www.google.com/search?q=3m+command+cable+clips&tbm=isch

You could also try something like this, if it's not too thick for your furniture. It looks ugly from the back, but who cares. I believe it's designed to be easily trimmed to fit your needs.
https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Cable-Raceway-Black-Length-x/dp/B002DNM42O

Or just use those velcro cable wraps =)
https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=cable+wraps&rh=n%3A228013%2Ck%3Acable+wraps

u/giggly_kisses · 4 pointsr/battlestations

Here are the parts I used:

  • cable raceway
  • cable clips
  • indoor mounting squares
  • velcro cable ties

    The cable raceway and the cable clips made the biggest difference. In the past I would just use the velcro strips, which would help with making the cables look more clean, but not with hiding them altogether.

    The process I used was:

  • unplug everything from your computer and lay them over your desk in straight lines so you can see all the cables you'll need to route.
  • find a good spot for the raceway leaving enough room for a power strip to sit behind it. I had to cut the raceway to fit my desk. Once it's sized correctly, stick it to the bottom of your desk.
  • Route a single wire at a time. I started with the wires coming from my monitor first since they were the furthest away from my tower. I also did the power cables last since they were the biggest and weren't being routed to the tower.
  • Once everything is routed in the raceway then start using the cable clips to make sure the cables follow the path cleanly.
  • Use the velcro strips to keep hanging wires together.
u/squirrelpotpie · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

After seeing your space (which looks different than I had pictured!) I'll give different recommendations than my other comment. (Thanks, BTW!)

Search for "1U blank keystone patch panel" to find the kind that has everything in one single row. That will maximize closet space. There are probably some 16-port types, but they will likely all be the same width since they're designed to go on server racks. In my brief search the only 16-port ones I found didn't have strain relief / cable management brackets, which are good for keeping the weight of the cable off of the electrical connections.

If the holes in the panel are right up against each other, you will need "Slim" Keystone jacks to fit alongside each other so tightly.

You'll notice the patch panels don't have convenient mounting holes facing the wall. To avoid using a rack or buying an adapter, mount it by screwing into a piece of wood with an angle bracket to attach the wood to the wall. Those pieces of wood could even form the sides of a box, with a cheap piece of plywood as a "lid" to protect the wires. Just make sure you can remove the plywood "lid" to get at the jacks.

I agree with moving the wires further back, though it might make it harder to reach them to attach the keystone jacks. You might have to get all the way inside the cubbyhole to work. Don't kink the wires when moving them. Ethernet has a minimum bend radius. Don't bend the cables tighter than the "O" you can make with your thumb and forefinger when you make an "OK" gesture. Doing so can affect the pair separation and 'twists per foot' in the cable, which is an important signal quality thing. Maybe cover the hole with the patch panel and its box lid.

u/bdm13 · 1 pointr/CFB

Oh, in that case, a cheap wiremold kit is probably your best bet. Make sure it's the plastic though, you don't want to deal with cutting the metal version.

FYI, I'm not an electrician, I just enjoy spending copious amounts of time from early spring through summer accomplishing random home improvement projects on the weekends.

EDIT: This will probably do the job; also, you can paint it to match your walls.

u/officrnaughty · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

VELCRO Brand - ONE WRAP Thin Ties, 8 x 1/2-Inch, 100 Count, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SphaBbVD4R8ZR

WireTamer Cable Management Tray (2 Pack, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BVYW7UY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-rhaBbAYX7GVF


I used these two of Amazon to make all my cables disappear and for pretty cheap 30$. Both products are amazing I've for no issues with either one. Good luck hope this helped.

u/ItsMeRyman · 3 pointsr/CableManagement

For sure! I searched around online for the best cable management tools, and came up with this and this to help me out. You can see more on the product page about what they do, but the plug multi adapters were placed into those boxes to hide them and any extra long cords that I had. Most of the work was just making sure the cords were long enough and making sure they went to the right place. I got lucky only needing to have one sheath for all desk items and one for all nightstand items, due to correct cord length.

u/SpectralCoding · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

Basically what /u/cstoner said. If you absolutely can't take downtime then setting up redundant paths are the only way.

Our blade chassis have ethernet fiber, storage fiber, a few copper connections, and power. They're all redundant. Being able to fix that mess while being careful isn't too hard as long as you only ever have one thing unplugged at a time. Messy power cables? Unplug one, reroute it, plug it back in, wait a few seconds, move to the next one.

For actual cable management tips, I would strongly recommend something like THIS. They're velcro cable ties that function pretty much like reusable zip ties. You can pull them pretty tight.

I would also recommend /r/cableporn .

u/yacht_boy · 1 pointr/DIY

The search term you're looking for is "cable trays." There are hundreds of variants, but something like this might work for you. Lifehacker also has a tag for DIY cable management. You want a cable tray that can sit between the two tables.

Or if you really just want to keep the tables with a half inch gap or so between them and have the cables drop down to the floor (but please, for the love of all that is holy, put in a decent cable management system instead), you could stick some shims (or even cheaper) pointy end down between the two tables on each end.

u/SirPepeSilva · 1 pointr/cableporn

Dude! that was the most challenging part! fucking speaker and subwoofer cables are thick as fuck and long! i shorten them to the optimal length first using these velcro straps below. Then just clip them to the back of the desk with the zip ties shown in the second link. I really like those zip ties because you can squeeze about 4-5 cables in them. Considering i have like 5 or 6 cables running through them while only using the adhesive id say they are of pretty good quality.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9VKVFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075Y9J42T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/aerofiki · 1 pointr/houseplants

My apartment has pretty terrible lighting and with fall/winter coming on strong in the Boston area, I decided to put together a little home gardening station to help with lighting and movement of the plants for watering. I went into this with the goal of having my setup accommodate most of my small collection of plants and to allow for easy movement without having to mess with the grow lights. In the end, I decided on a cart-based design composed of the following items:

Bror Utility Cart 33 ½” X 21 ⅝” X 34 ⅝” ($99)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-utility-cart-black-pine-plywood-60333850/

Bror Add-on Shelf 21 ⅝” X 6 ¼” X 5 ½” ($10)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-add-on-shelf-black-20402001/

Koppla 3 Outlet Power Strip 19 ¾” ($4.99 for two pack)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/koppla-3-outlet-power-strip-grounded-white-00086428/

2x Hemma Cord Set, Black 15’ 5” ($7.00 each)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/hemma-cord-set-white-10175810/

(IKEA site only has white showing up now, black was available in-store)

2x Luftmassa Lamp Shade 10” ($17.99 each)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/luftmassa-lamp-shade-rounded-70462648/

Kasa Smart WiFi Plug Mini HS105 ($21.75)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1JVZOE/

Relassy 20 Watt Dual Head, Gooseneck, Full Spectrum Grow Lamp ($27.39)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C68N7PC/

2x GE 9 Watt BR30 Balanced Full Spectrum Bulbs ($9.98 each)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NN6SVG6/

4x 3M Command Utility Hooks 3 lbs ($8.99 for nine)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0751RPD3V/

2x Velcro Thin Ties 8” X ½” ($9.70 for 100)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/

Total Cost (pre-tax): $234.76

u/GbMaxSE · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

As I mentioned... $400-$500 is the absolute bottom basement cost to get a super beginner 5.1 setup. I'd rather see you spend $500 and replace the S530BT AVR with a Denon X1400H for $330. You'd have much more future capability with that receiver, but ultimately at this stage the speakers are more important.

u/lafferty_daniel · 3 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

I don't think it quite "spoils" it, that is a bit harsh. I think it looks great.

I would get some cable concealer, something like this. You probably don't need that much but it would be perfect for under the monitor. You don't need as much that is in the link I provided but I like to keep some around because it is very easy to cut them for other setups in the house.

u/ev214 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Nice setup! One way you can fix the cables is buying cable sleeves so they all run through one place and stay in one place. A cable box to cover up the power strip would go nicely as well.

Really affordable, made my setup look really organized and appealing after only about half an hour of installation

Here are the links if you’re interested :D

Cable Box:
GoStar Cable Organizer Box - Large Black Cord Management Storage Container with Non-Slip Pads - Cover & Hide Power Strips, Adapters, Device Chargers, Ethernet, Computer & USB Cables & Electrical Cords https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073DCYP67/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oAs5Ab4JCE0T6

Cable Sleeves:
Cable Management Sleeve, JOTO Cord Management System for TV / Computer / Home Entertainment, 19 - 20 inch Flexible Cable Sleeve Wrap Cover Organizer, 4 Piece - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015HWXG4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YAs5AbTD33BED

u/kent1146 · 1 pointr/shittybattlestations

Hey man. It really doesn't take much. :)

Just order a pack of 8" zip ties from Amazon (about $3) and some Velcro strips for $5. Just bundling your cables together goes a LONG way.

But don't worry. If you still want to be on /r/shittybattlestations even after your cables look all nice, you can just mount your hard drives by duct taping the shit out of them to your case. A shittybattlestations masterpiece!




VELCRO Brand One Wrap Thin Ties, Black & Gray, 8 x 1/2-Inch, 50 Count (90924) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5K82A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k0LZzbYE7WKZG

C2G/Cables to Go 43036 4-Inch Cable Ties - 100 Pack (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002GX1XA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L1LZzbMJSWCN0

u/Rdddss · 2 pointsr/malelivingspace

there are a lot of diff cable hider things like this one, its not perfect but is way better then just having them hand down like that

https://www.amazon.com/Wiremold-CMK50-Cord-Mate-Kit/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497541406&sr=8-2&keywords=conceal+a+cord

u/Einsteins_coffee_mug · 4 pointsr/MusicBattlestations

I take it you’re looking for a long term storage solution but with dayvto day accessibility? As in easy in, easy out, and it’ll be out of sight as well.

After you find an appropriately sized case, you’ll want to set up some pick and pluck foam inserts so everything has a spot. No more digging through bins for what you need. Prioritize the stuff you already use constantly, then put the rest into your big Rubbermaid container in the closet. (And mark it “summer clothes” so your wife doesn’t complain about your hoarding)

Then you’ll want a few hundred of these to keep your wires neat and undamaged. Beats rolling them around the wall wart or using rubber bands.

It’s a little less accessible than the cable hangers but it clears the clutter.

u/Sobia6464 · 1 pointr/msp

Ended up researching into a bag and eventually found one I think will work well.

I will link to everything I've found on amazon. I have found others on our distributors website. Hopefully this will help others put together something as well!

Bag

SATA Adapter

Toolkit

Toner/Fox and Hound

Small LED Flashlight

Velcro Wire Ties - Zip ties are awful

Network Kit

External HDD

Analog Phone - For testing Fax Lines mainly

There's more, such as cables and things, but everyone should be OK with figuring that out for yourselves. Total the kit (with cables and stuff included) is only about $370.91 per technician.

Hope this helps someone!

u/JrClocker · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I used the same adapter to rackmount my USG.

​

If you want to rackmount your switch, buy the 16 port version...not that much more expensive.

​

I built my rack on this, and it's been awesome: 19" Rack with Wheels

​

Here are some other items for your rack:

​

Cable Routing

​

5U Drawer

​

1 U Shelf

​

1 U Power Strip (PDU)

​

Keystone Patch Panel

​

My NAS is rackmount, as well as the UPS.

​

I have the keystone patch panel on the back of the rack. I have all my network stuff on the rack (cable modem, NAS, switches, USG, etc.). I bring all of the connections into the keystone patch panel (ethernet RJ45, telephone RJ11 (comes out of cable modem), RF for cable modem, etc). I then route form the other side of the keystone patch panel into the rack. I made the external connections long enough so that I can easily move the rack to work on it (when it's powered up). However, if I need to move it far, everything just disconnects from the back easily.

u/throwveryfaraway3 · 21 pointsr/malelivingspace

Do you own or rent?

Your speaker setup could be vastly improved by just spreading them out to their appropriate space thereby creating a better cinematic experience while watching television, as well as decluttering your AV hutch a bit further.

If you own, you route your baseboards to run the wires, if you rent, you can buy self adhesive tracks which will hide the wires. It's not much work and makes a huge difference. Said wires can then be reused for when/if you upgrade.

Also the subwoofer can be totally hidden away since bass/low frequencies tend to be non directional. You can even get slim units that slip under your sofa so the effect is more pronounced at lower volumes.

Although for all I've said, I'm really nitpicking. Your space is great.



Obviously, larger ones for more wires, just not too slim.
https://smile.amazon.com/Wiremold-C110-1-channel-CordMate-White/dp/B00004W3ZP

u/Dodgeballrocks · 2 pointsr/audio

Audio professional here:

The best thing for short thin cables is to get a tiny velcro strap. Check home improvement stores like Home Depot or Lowes if you're in the US. They sell thin velcro straps you can easily cut down to a short enough length to be usable for something like a 1/8" stereo cable (what you are calling an "aux" cable).

I use these at home all the time:

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-90924/dp/B000F5K82A/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_229_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0WHN6E9WNNYCE2ZQ5HJ3

For longer or thicker cables that we use in the pro audio world we either use thicker velco or tie-line which is standard in the lighting world to tie up very large thick lighting cables.

u/itsmejaypee21 · 2 pointsr/msp

This guy is in all of my bags. I also carry a North Face Surge 2, it's pretty solid, has a lot of pockets, the laptop pouch is lined so my device never gets scratched up. I have some velcro cable ties that have been very useful at times, but I also go into a lot of rack rooms still.

I agree with the comfy shoes, and I also carry some hand sani and wipes.

u/_id10terror_ · 21 pointsr/homelab
  1. Toss the Zips and use Velcro, so you can add\remove cables as time passes. (https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Reusable-Fastening-Organizing/dp/B001E1Y5O6).
  2. Mount Chassis under the desk with something like this (https://www.amazon.com/HumanCentric-Adjustable-Computer-Mounts-Holder/dp/B079RZBK1Y)
  3. Mount UPS to wall with something like this (https://www.amazon.com/HumanCentric-Computer-Adjustable-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B07P83J1H8).
  4. Wall mount a shelf for the network gear. A plus side is it is rack-mountable so if you ever go that direction it is still useful to you (https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Circulation-Cantilever-Universal-PLRSTN14U/dp/B01HTG4WHY). That Pyle one is 10" deep and a great value for the money, but they have many options and depths on Amazon, just search for "Rack Mount Shelf". Use the vents in the rack with some velcro to tie down the gear and cables neatly.
  5. Whenever possible, route low and high voltage separately. Use either your typical cable raceways, or something like these adjustable cable straps that can be mounted by screws or adhesive. (https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Self-Adhesive-mounts-Optional-management/dp/B07P1RNP5B)

    Last piece of advice.... Let your EdgeRouter breathe... don't stack stuff on top of the poor thing. :)
u/13r4x7on · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Oooohhh... I've been looking for something just like that! Thank you so much!

I found These though, and I think I like the plain look a little better. Still, thanks for the idea. I do need to grab a couple of logner cables, since some things are sort of stretched.

u/schaef87 · 1 pointr/battlestations

What /u/Cloo159 said...
>Put this under your desk, best $10 you can spend on cable management.

or these with zip ties

http://www.amazon.com/Ziotek-Zip-Tie-Mount-Pack/dp/B000BSJHLE.

I like the flexibility of the zip tie mounts. You can get very creative

u/peraspera441 · 1 pointr/googlefiber

If wireless turns out to be a flakey solution your wife might find it acceptable if you use a small paintable, plastic raceway to hide a cord for the TV. We used this one in my mom's 1890's house, https://amazon.com/gp/product/B0015EA3P2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It looks like it's part of the baseboard so isn't noticeable and it was super easy to install.

u/Arcendus · 1 pointr/battlestations

Cable management can be easy or hard, depending on how you want to go about it. If you're looking for an easy solution and don't need to fiddle with cables too much once they're hidden, I'd definitely recommend using a raceway.

u/rpeters83 · 1 pointr/pcmods

I'm constantly buying packs of these cheap straps: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Not just for case cable management, but pretty much any cable for anything. I love these things.

u/EvilMrGubGub · 1 pointr/buildapc

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Order these, never again will you need zip ties. Worked wonderfully in my build, honestly the best purchase I made as far as "extras" goes.

u/C_64 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Oh, I'd love white sensors - it'd be a much better match for most homes.

Given that I'm in an apartment, I'm just not willing to take the risk + effort running the cords behind the wall. But now that I'm pretty certain I've got the final location for my sensors set, I can consider using cord covers to hide them. Like these things:
https://smile.amazon.com/Wiremold-C110-1-channel-CordMate-White/dp/B00004W3ZP

u/AXISMGT · 1 pointr/macsetups

Looks good!

Try these ties. They should help:
VELCRO Brand One Wrap Thin Ties, Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch, 100 Count (91140) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NqZ2AbET1MZRN

Sleeves like this as well:
Cable Management Sleeve, JOTO Cord Management System for TV / Computer / Home Entertainment, 19 - 20 inch Flexible Cable Sleeve Wrap Cover Organizer, 4 Piece - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015HWXG4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hrZ2Ab5S7FG4V

u/realmain · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

The stock heatsink should be more than enough for what this. You only need a custom CPU Cooler if you are planning to overclock, which this processor can't because it's a locked CPU. Because there won't be any real heavy CPU/GPU usage, you should't need custom case fans.

If you want case fans, for the 200mm front I suggest this Phanteks one or this Cooler Master one. For the 2x 80mm fans, you can go with 2 of these Noctua. Or you can find other fans you might like.

You shouldn't need any extra cables or anything. If anything... these Velcro ties are AMAZING for cable management, and use around the house :)

I forgot to mention. This case does not have a optical drive, most newer cases these days do not have an external bay for them, because most people use USB now. If you need to use a CD/DVD/Blu-Ray, I suggest an external one. And remember to get the driver for your MOBO's ethernet from the manufacture's website and put it on your phone or USB stick to put on your PC. After that W10 should update all your drivers for you via internet.

u/KansasMike · 4 pointsr/homelab

I would run all cabled directly off to either the left or right side, bundle them and then run them over the top and down the other side.

Consider getting an arm or something else to avoid messing the whole thing up when you pull out the server on the rails. You can kind of wing it without one though.

Velcro strips comes in real handy for cable management. Having 100 of those hanging off the sides makes it really easy to gather up the cables and redo them when adding equipment. They don't look quite as nice as plastic strips, but it is just so much more enjoyable to work with for projects like this.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Black-2-Inch-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6
Similar ones can be bought on AliExpress for peanuts if you can wait a month.

From the looks of it pulling the server out on the rails will disconnect the power cords. I would mount an extension socket next to it with an on/off switch that lights up.

u/chandler404 · 1 pointr/interiordecorating

For starters, maybe get the cords hidden a bit with something like this: Wiremold CMK10 Mate Cord Organizer Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015EA3P2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_frUOzbMPCWMB2

You may even want to wrap the power cord around the AC unit so it doesn't drop down and that huge knot isn't sitting there.

Cord hider will also be good to run down the wall - maybe you could even plug in a short extension cord so the big nub for whatever else needs to be plugged in sits on the floor instead of on the wall.

I don't know if the switch next to the power outlet powers anything, or if it's just for the AC. You could look into different outlets that may clean up how that looks.

Short cord runs, cord hiders, and right angles will make this look a lot cleaner.

u/SnoBoy9000 · 2 pointsr/battlestations

This is a nice change from the typical setup, especially having two monitors on top of each other. Thanks for the variety. That said, some simple cable management would clean up everything nicely and make finding stuff, unplugging things if anything goes wrong, and moving stuff around if needed much easier. I don't think you need to do much. Some simple velcro ties could do wonders for you and is probably all you need.

u/nmezib · 2 pointsr/Vive

To keep the room looking tidy, I highly recommend wire channels like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Wiremold-CMK10-Cordmate-Cover/dp/B0015EA3P2/

They're easily found in hardware stores (at least in the US). They do a great job sticking permanently, and you can paint over them.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/battlestations

That would look great, if you know where to buy that sleeve material, please let me know for future projects. I recently did all my cable management along the back edge of my desk with velcro ties, and it was very fast and easy to get everything into one bundle.

These are the ones I purchased. Absolutely worth it.

u/omgwtfbbqcrew · 3 pointsr/hometheater

I think going in wall is always the best look but if that's not an option I've used this wire hider in my room and then painted over it and it does look pretty good.

https://www.amazon.com/Wiremold-CMK50-Cord-Mate-Kit/dp/B0015EDVVU/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1503410073&sr=1-3&keywords=wire+hider

u/plazman30 · 2 pointsr/iphone

OK, there are two ways to attach this thing to the Fidelio X2.

The first it to just plug them in directly to the bottom of the headphone.

Side View

Front View

The other option is to use a short AUX cable and then use a velcro zip tie to attach them to the headband. The AUX cable I bought was red, but you can get a black one to make it look less conspicuous.

Side View

Rear View

Front View

The short AUX cables I bought were these.

The zip ties I used were these.

Hope this was useful.

EDIT: If you're going to go the short aux cable route, then I strongly recommend finding a cable with 45 degreee connectors on both ends.