I'm copypasta'ing my answer to this question from a month ago. Good luck!

Just reno'd my home, and I LOVE MY SMART HOME. I'm using SmartThings in conjunction with Logitech's Harmony Hub, and it is working fantastically!!

A few other recommendations:

1. CAT6 EVERYWHERE. This is so important and worthwhile, that I'm writing it to echo everyone else's statements :) I had my contractor's wiring guy run unfinished, plain Cat6 everywhere, and will finish the ends myself, which saved a ton of money.
   
   
2. Get them to install your Smart Thermostat. I supplied mine (Ecobee 3) to my contractor and wanted them to install it. This is because when I asked them if my furnace had the C-wire, they said yes, so I could install it myself. I pushed them to install it for me, and it turned out that I didn't have the C-wire, so they had to do the extra wiring run to my furnace and get it installed. Massive bullet dodged, no way I could have done that myself after the walls were up. I love smart heating/cooling. I chose the Ecobee 3 because it is actually a hard-wired thermostat, so no need to ever change batteries :)
   
   
3. Smart dimmer switches for nice pendant/chandelier LED lights in kitchen and/or living room (or anywhere else). I bought a couple smart dimmable GE z-wave switches (I think it was this, or a similar model) and had the contractor install those too. This you can probably do yourself, but it's better if they do it for you while they're installing all the other wiring and regular switches anyway. The switches are wonderful, and can dim my beautiful kitchen pendant LEDs, as well as my beautiful chandelier LED. Thus, those lights didn't have to be smart, just the switch, which allowed me unlimited access to any light I want. Light shopping is a lot of fun, a lot of cool stuff out there. If using this switch, just make sure the lights you buy for them are dimmable, as some LED lights are not dimmable, and will tell you so in the specs.
   
   
4. Outlets at every window. For what? SMART AUTOMATED BLINDS. And with the outlets by the windows, then you can order the blinds that come with standard wired power, which is cheaper than the battery powered and solar powered ones. And c'mon, let's face it, no one wants to change the damn batteries, especially with the blinds going up and down at least one cycle per day, and solar power never seems to deliver enough juice. I ordered smart Bali Blinds through Costco that have the Somfi receiver built into them. You build your own package when you order (because you have to measure and specify lengths and widths for blinds), and when choosing accessories, you have to order the Somfi to Z-wave controller (Zrtsi is what they call it) with it. I LOVE these smart blinds.
   
   
5. Get them to install your Smart Door Locks. I'm using a Schlage Z-wave (or zigbee?) lock for this, and it is working great so far. But it was a pain in the ass to install apparently, or more specifically, to line up with the hole the door bolt lines up with in the door frame.
   
   
   HOME MODE:
   
   Now, I have my smart home programmed so that when I pull up onto the driveway and into the range of my wifi, the blinds automatically open, my LED lights come on, and the TV system turns on, programmed to my starting channel of course (which is usually sports, because baseball is on by the time I get home :D), and the door unlocks. It's...really amazing lol...I freaking love this setup.
   
   If I have gone out for the day and just remembered that I didn't check to see if I locked the door? I can just check the status of it from the SmartThings app. Unlocked? Click. Locked.
   
   VACATION MODE:
   
   When I was out of town last month, I programmed a couple SmartThings routines to open and close my blinds, and turn my lights and tv on and off, at different intervals on different days. I used different timings for different days, because why not? It's so easy and simple to set up in SmartThings, so why not make it just the slightest more realistic and difficult for burglars to figure out?
   
   All in all, I can't believe my smart home is actually functioning the way I hoped it would. I expected there to be more issues and problems, but nope, it's working exactly the way I wanted it to.
   
   
   When my garage is cleared out, I will be installing my wifi enabled Chamberlain garage door openers too, so that the garage door will open automatically for me as well :) If you can get them to install that too, that would save you a bunch of time, since that's a lengthy install and you usually need someone to help with it.
   
   GOOD LUCK!
   
   Optional:
   
6. Speaker wire in every room, like bathrooms. Or at least the rooms you'll want sound in (kitchen, bedrooms, living room, bathrooms....that's pretty much every room :D). I wish I had done this. I initially thought I would just use a bluetooth speaker wherever I wanted sound. But then Google released the Chromecast Audio, and you can get whole home sound now for CHEAP...if you have powered speakers everywhere. Plus, it's always good to have speaker wires wherever you're going to have a tv, because true surround sound will always be better than soundbars.
   
   BONUS EDIT:
   
   Writing this prompted me to check my stuff while here at work. I just opened the SmartThings app and noticed I left the blinds open! Click. Closed. :D
   
   DOUBLE BONUS EDIT:
   
   I can't wait for my Google Home and Amazon Echo Dots to arrive!!!!

First thing anyone should buy is Deluxe Audio Strap. Can't stress that enough.

Vive-N-Chill is also really useful. It may seem silly, but it actually works really well. When I use any other headset for active gaming I really miss it.

Hyperskin covers for the controllers are awesome, comfortable, add grip and help with the occasional wall scrape. Though personally I ditched the headset one as I feel like it may trap in heat. Does look cool though. But the controller ones are a must have.

One of my absolute favorite VR accessories: 1" MMA floor tiles. Worth every penny. Way better than any thinner solutions and you can really kneel/roll around on the ground comfortably and stand for hours on it. Can be disassembled for transport and does not slide on carpet. They seem to be holding up to heavy duty long term use so well they should last for years through multiple generations of headsets.

My favorite face cushion for personal use is the stock foam one. Comfortable, breathes, and absorbs moisture and wicks it away. Nice to break out the fancy faux-leather ones for guests and stuff, but the original stock ones are the best for serious game sessions, at least in my opinion. Just hand wash it on occasion.

These guitar hangers are cheap and awesome for hanging controllers from when paired with some 10 foot usb micro cables for charging. Maybe not as cool looking as the special charging stand, but a whole bunch of pairs are great for different VR controllers if you have more than just a pair to deal with.

And, if/when you ever tire of the Base Stations' function to remotely power up/down automatically being fussy, slow or intermittent, then remote power outlets will make you happy. They make the base stations spring to life and sync in a few seconds compared to the slow blue tooth routine and power off when you want them off.

Okay let's start from the beginning- each of your devices needs to be machine-controllable.

Lights- you can use smart bulbs (Hue etc) or you can use lighting controllers (smart light switches, plug-in dimmer modules, etc). Either way you'll either need a network like Z-Wave or Zigbee or Insteon to control them, which will require a USB RF interface. You could use all WiFi devices but I don't recommend this.

TV- that probably means infrared. Some TVs you can control by serial port, other TVs you can control with network traffic. 99% chance infrared is your best bet though.

Fan- if this is a plug-in fan you can use a plug-in switch module. What kind of fan is it?

Xbox- probably via IR.

Voice control- Alexa or Google Home.

Hub- Home Assistant works, HomeSeer costs money but might be easier to set up.

So to break this down, you need to find a way to interface all these devices with your hub. Let's assume you're using HA.

For the lights, you need a primary control technology, that'll be Z-Wave, Zigbee, Insteon, etc. I suggest Z-Wave as it's got better support in both Home Assistant and HomeSeer. That unfortunately rules out Hue bulbs, but it means you can instead get nice Z-Wave smart light switches and use your existing bulbs. Here's a popular one. If you want super controllability check out the HomeSeer branded switches- they'll work fine with Home Assistant, they have several LEDs that you can program to do whatever, you can decouple the switch (so pushing the button doesn't turn on the light but rather sends a Z-Wave command), program double/triple/quadruple tap actions, etc.

Note that if you really really want Hue lights, Home Assistant and HomeSeer both (somewhat) support ZigBee. You can also buy a Hue Bridge, which is basically an Ethernet-Zigbee interface that's Hue-proprietary, and link that to HA or HomeSeer.

Fan- if it's a plug in fan you need a plug-in appliance/switch module. Here's one. If you have a ceiling fan type thing you'll need a ceiling fan switch. Here's one of those (HomeSeer makes one too).

IR (TV, Xbox, etc)- probably BroadLink devices or Global Cache iTach. Note that if you try HomeSeer, Global Cache works, Broadlink I think does not.

Voice commands- How to integrate Alexa and Home Assistant.

You'll want to look at Smart things by Samsung or even a hubitat with z wave motion sensors, door sensors and z wave light switches.

Smart things

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=smartthings&qid=1568218834&s=hi&sr=1-4

Hubitat

https://www.amazon.com/Hubitat-Elevation-Home-Automation-Hub/dp/B07D19VVTX/ref=sr_1_4?crid=11LGAJMZT4XTM&keywords=hubitat&qid=1568218857&s=hi&sprefix=Hubitat%2Ctools%2C181&sr=1-4

If you go the z wave /z wave plus route things tend to be much more stable and you can build a interference free IOT network. Zigbee runs on 2.4ghz so its generally less preferred to z wave that operates at a interferance-FREE 800-900 MHz.

Things like the GE Z wave light switches are great for a good reliable IOT network.


GE Z wave light switch & Extender

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=zwave+ge+light+switch&qid=1568218742&s=gateway&sr=8-2

For locks I highly recommend the Keyless Yale locks. $98 a piece, very reliable and they work great with a z wave network. They also use a hardened steel strike plate, a solid steel body, a tamper alarm, a anti saw dead bolt core and cant be picked.

​

You'll want a good quality door sensor, good reliable ones are few and far between so make sure you get something that has great amazon reviews. Dont cheap out here as flaky contact sensors are everywhere and its not worth the $5 when it doesn work half the time.


Z Wave Door Sensor


https://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Magnets-Window-Sensor-DWZWAVE2-5-ECO/dp/B01N5HB4U5/ref=sr_1_4?crid=29QS4YGELWFZR&keywords=zwave+door+sensor&qid=1568220339&s=hi&sprefix=Z+wave+door%2Ctools%2C170&sr=1-4


Yale Z wave YRD110ZW619 Dead bolt

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PM6V1XW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I also use an Abode Security System thats z wave based with my z wave locks feeding in to it. Abode is great as its got all the fancy features other alarm systems offer but has no monthly charge!!


Abode Security System

https://goabode.com/?rfsn=2685339.3291b5


​

For Smart outlets I dont have any z wave ones yet, just a couple of TP-Link kasa ones. I would probably go for GE in wall outlets though. DONT SKIMP on your outlets, lesser known brands have been know to catch on fire!

I have 19 kasa light bulbs and they work pretty darn good, but I would recommend GE outlets for much better home automation. Smart light bulbs are good for basic stuff but once someone turns off the light switch you cant turn them back on until you flip the switch.


Kasa Light Bulbs LB110

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-LB110-Smart-Wi-Fi-Dimmable/dp/B01HXM8XE2/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Kasa+bulbs&qid=1568220252&s=hi&sr=1-5

Please note that Smart things and Hubitat are booth good in there own respects, Smart things is good for people who know how to use a computer but are not power users. Hubitat is great for people who own a github account and really want the full automation experience. Hubitat runs most/all IOT commands locally and doesn't rely on the cloud for processing.

I skipped hubitat and went for HASSIO, I really, REALLY, dont recommend this rout unless your a computer tech as the learning curb can be really steep!!! It runs on your own server, I use the VB version


HASSIO

https://www.home-assistant.io/hassio/

I have an Ecobee4 thermostat (although Alexa doesn’t work as well for me as I hoped) w/ Ecobee remote sensors mounted in every room. Not only is this great for managing the temp in the house overall, but now I can include temp changes in my automations and geo-fencing.

In addition, although I find them a bit slow to respond when using them as room entry motion sensors, the Ecobee remote sensors are great for automatically turning off the lights when a room is no longer occupied.

I also recently added some non-HomeKit “smarter” switches in my bathroom and laundry room. In the laundry room, I put a simple Lutron (not Caseta) motion sensor switch to auto turn the light on/off when someone comes/goes from the laundry room. Works fantastically, it’s simple, and not too expensive.

In my bathroom, I added three new Lutron (not Caseta) switches.

• 1 is a dimmer w/ motion sensor... I use it for the ceiling fixture to come on automatically at 50% brightness (if the room is dark enough). It also turns the light off automatically.
  
  
• 1 is a fan controller with a built-in timer. This thing is great. I set it to a 30-minute default countdown when turned on. The time can be adjusted from 5-60 minutes. Double tapping the fan switch turns it on until someone turns it off.
  
  
• 1 is a plain switch to control the vanity mirror light bar. Manual on/off... that’s it.
  
  The first two of those switches are far more programmable than I thought... reading the instructions really paid off! :)
  
  The Lutron Claro wall plates are really great as well. They are very clean, simple, and modern looking... and their 2-part design makes it really easy to adjust all your switches for a precision installation (i.e. flush and straight).
  
  In my bedroom, my bedside lamps are controlled by 1 Lutron Caseta lamp dimmer w/ remote. I use the same style Caseta lamp dimmer for a few other standalone lamps... and even used one to automate (just on/off) my outside LED holiday lights last winter (the dimmability of which was fantastic, as they are normally way too bright).
  
  In conclusion, before spending a bunch of money, my advice would be to think carefully about how you/others use certain rooms and if a motion detection switch would suffice or if a more complex automation control is needed. Also... do the math. As others have pointed out, one alternative may be way more cost effective over another when you factor in the number of bulbs and/or switches involved.
  
  One last thing... I am renting a room to a guy who's on a totally different schedule than me and as such, I never knew if he was in his room sleeping or out of the house elsewhere. So... since I had previously added him to my HomeKit household... I use a combination of geofencing with his phone, and the Ecobee motion sensor in his room, to switch on/off a particular lamp when he comes & goes. That way... it's easy for me to know if I need to be quiet, or if I can rock out with my socks out.
  
  *EDIT: Added a bunch of links and more...

Here are my thoughts:

• HomeKit is definitely the correct choice for ease of use and privacy
  
• plugs are easy to install, can be used for a variety of things, do not require any modification of the home, and doesn't introduce confusion with wall light switches. My recommendations are the Satechi Dual Smart Plug (two- smart outlets that don't block an outlet and monitoring) and the VOCOlinc SmartBar (cheaper and doesn't block an outlet, but only one smart outlet)
  
• get smart bulbs if you don't want to mess with wiring. The HUE are probably the best, and the IKEA are probably a more attractive price. Don't get too many color bulbs until you try one. The use of color in bulbs grows old after three days of "coolness". Wi-Fi bulbs will not require a bridge from the manufacturer. HOWEVER, you may want to consider something with bridge (like the HUE or IKEA). The bridge will have better performance due to how HomeKit communications work, and it might be better if you are in an apartment with congested Wi-Fi signals
  
• The Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmeris plugs into your outlet for connecting lamps that you want to dim
  
• If you don't mind wiring, (its so easy to do that you could easily remove them when you move out) I highly recommend the Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Dimmer Switch. Rock solid and fast and easy to install. Its the best for lights because you don't have figure out the physical "switch" problem, and anybody can still use the lights in the apartment without having access to HomeKit.
  
• An AppleTV for your hub
  
  ​
  
  That should get you going!

Good morning /u/EFaden and congrats on the new house!

I'm not sure what HUB you have but there are a couple options if you want to keep the standard in-wall switch, but use scenes to automate things.

Disclaimer: I'm associated with Inovelli, so please keep that in mind. However, I'll lay out all the options that I know of since the scene switches are a passion of mine since they can do so much

On that note, there's a few brands that I'm aware of that have the scene functionality built into a normal in-wall switch and they are: GE, ZWP, HomeSeer, and ourselves.

GE, I believe has a double tap feature in their new Z-Wave Plus switches, but I just have their old ones in my house (which have been great) so I can't confirm, but I've seen posts about it.

HomeSeer was actually one of the first, if not the first companies to come out with this and I personally have one of their switches in my house as well and it's been rock solid. You can add up to I believe 10 scenes to it by single/double/triple/4x/5x tapping the switch (top and bottom). There's a specific device handler for it if you're on SmartThings.

ZWP, I don't really know much about, I just saw they had a scene switch too.

As for Inovelli, we're really proud of the work our guys put into the firmware this time and I'll highlight some of the features below:

• Ability to add 10-12 scenes (10 for Dimmer and 12 for On/Off) based on taps or holds
  
  
• Ability to disable the internal relay - this is good for people who use smart bulbs on their loads so that now when the switch is used, rather than cutting power to the smart bulb, the switch will instead send a scene command to the HUB to turn the light on (or if you have a Z-Wave bulb, it can be directly associated with the bulb and there will be no need for a command to be sent to the HUB). I personally use this feature in my daughter's room bc she has a Hue light setup on it and depending on the number of taps, the bulb will turn a different color
  
  
• For dimmers, you can now set the default brightness based on the time of day. An example would be at night time if you don't want to blind yourself in the bathroom, you can set it so that the dimmer will only dim to 10% between the hours of 10pm and 6am. This can be set to happen locally (manual pressing) or remotely
  
  
• Also for Dimmers, you can change the speed at which the switch turns on. Some people like a slow dim, some people like a fast dim, while others like an, "instant on" effect to mimic an On/Off switch
  
  
• Change the minimum dimming level - this is great for if you have an LED bulb that starts flickering at the low setting
  
  
• Finally, you do not have to have an auxiliary switch in a 3-Way setting. Simply wire this up to your existing, "dumb" switch and it will work as a normal 3-Way switch
  
  As I said above, not sure what HUB you have, but we wrote device handlers for SmartThings and Drivers for Hubitat, but if you don't have those, the settings above can all be done via parameters (except for the dimming based on time of day, let me check with our VP of Tech)
  
  Anyway, I hope that helped a bit. You can't go wrong with any of those brands. They're all unique in their own way and if you're thinking about Z-Wave, then they are some very reputable brands.
  
  Have a great day and if you have any questions, feel free to reach out!
  
  Eric
  
  Founder | Inovelli
  
  

  
  <br />
  Links:<br />
  <br />
  GE: <br />
  <br />

• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C
  
  HomeSeer: (they have quite a few, so just type in, "HomeSeer Z-Wave Plus Switch" and they should all come up. I'm going to put the couple I know work with ST)
  
  
• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFSAAJ4
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DFRWZNE
  
  ZWP:
  
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725SZMTG
  
  Inovelli
  
  
• On/Off https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N235ROS
  
  
• Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAUCQ18

I've never heard of Legrand, and I've always seen Lutron as having more of a closed system, but I see that Caseta is getting, or just got official SmartThings support. What I meant was going with z-wave dimmers or on/off switches like the ones made by GE or Linear/GoControl. The nice things about regular z-wave, z-wave plus, and zigbee products like this is that it's compatible with a whole slew of hubs, and will probably be supported by all future hubs for a long, long time. Doesn't matter if you have SmartThings, Wink, VeraLite, whatever, it will work.

Lighting doesn't have to be complicated, it's more about the hub you go with, than the device that controls your bulbs because that is what you interact with. I have a mix of z-wave dimmers and smart bulbs around the house, altogether 20 something light devices connected to a SmartThings hub. Alexa integration is great, as is Google Assistant on android (I have no iOS devices). I can tell either Alexa or the Google Assistant to turn lights on/off, dim lights to a percentage (I love being able to dim lights to any percent I want, 1%, 10%, 63%, whatever I want) and they change instantly. I use an android app called SharpTools that has a great UI for controlling devices, and good support for creating widgets.

I don't use scenes, but SmartThings has "routines" so you can create a widget on your phone's home screen or control it with Alexa to perform preset tasks (Set Living Room light to 10%, Set Reading Lamp to 85%, turn on a power outlet, lock your front door, etc).

Here's some links if you want to look at some other options:

GE Z-Wave Dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2

Linear Z-Wave Dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1OVFAK/ (I have a bunch of these and they're great).

Sure thing!

So I used a Raspberry Pi, but you could also use a virtual server or old desktop. The nice thing about the Pi is it is super cheap and uses very little energy since you have to leave it on all the time. It is far cheaper to buy the Pi than to use an old desktop that is sitting around. Use Z-Wave Plus (aka Gen5) devices, the older non-plus devices can't be upgraded and most do not support encryption.

So, things you'll need:

A Raspberry Pi: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/

A Z-wave plus controller (I went with the Aeotec Gen5 because it is well supported by the project): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X0AWA6E/

A cheap Raspberry Pi case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1BNANM/

Z-wave plus devices you want to control. For the outdoor lights I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/

A MicroSD card (At least 8GB, the higher the class the better, but you don't need to go overboard) : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007KFXIDO/

An old micro USB phone charger

A MicroSD card reader


So there are several ways to install Home Assistant (https://home-assistant.io). I started trying out trying their new Hass.io operating system and found it just wasn't as stable as I would have liked as of yet and documentation was lacking. I'm not knocking the OS, but personally I ended up installing it on top of Raspbian Lite. To install, you’ll want to head over here: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/noobs/  and follow the instructions on copying the files to your MicroSD card. When you get to the point of installing an OS, choose Raspbian Lite.

After you get done installing head over here: https://home-assistant.io/docs/installation/raspberry-pi/ . This gives a pretty straightforward installation guide on how to install on Raspbian Lite. It helps to have some familiarity with POSIX-oriented operating systems.

From this point on you can branch out in many directions depending on what you want to do. Home Assistant is highly customizable. Read the docs and follow examples. There are forums if you get stuck and I’d be happy to answer any questions or give suggestions for whatever use case you might have.

Hope that helps :-)

Oh wow, I have non-24 and not very much money, so I've actually been working on doing basically the same thing! Right now I have some fluorescent grow lights plugged into a wemo switch, and let me tell you..... it's certainly not the same.

The bad news is that from what I can find, there's no real good way to do it cleanly if you want dimming, since most smart plugs are a simple binary on/off. I have found a few options though!

(I'm sure you know but please note the requisite be super careful around AC voltage, it'll make you dead)

The first is something along the lines of this, what's meant to be an in-wall dimmer to replace a 1-gang light switch. That's probably gonna be the easiest way to do it -- just attach it to the wires in-line, and you're good to go. There are other, similar options that may be cheaper, especially if you can use something like z-wave.

I don't have a link atm, but I also know that I've seen someone take a normal cheapo wall dimmer and just... hook a lil servo motor up to it. That's also an option?

After some searching, I did find what seems to be the one plug-in smart dimming outlet that doesn't require a hub. Heads-up though, it's only rated to 100W with LEDs so you'll wanna be careful. Not having look much into this, I make no promises, but my cursory googling actually seems really promising. Price isn't horrible, either.

So here's where I thought to check the wonderful world of Sonoff. It's not the CLEANEST solution visually, but they actually do make a smart socket -- if you're willing to drop $60 and be done, just get six of these guys here.

EDIT: Just kidding, those bases also do not have dimmers, so they won't work. But here's a video of someone using one of their surprisingly cheap wall dimmers to do just what you want!

Setting up an automation system in your house requires 3 different areas:

1. Controlled "appliances"
   
   
2. A hub
   
   
3. A controller
   
   I am being specifically vague when I say controlled appliances because this group is vast and varried. You can have smart light bulbs, smart light switches, smart wall outlets, smart thermostats, various sensors, security cameras, and the list goes on and on.
   
   All of these appliances will have a communication system such as z-wave or wifi that allows it to connect to the hub and be controlled virtually.
   
   These can be extremely expensive, but most have gotten relatively cheap. For instance, the light switches I have are about $40 each. So, for about $40 per room you can completely automate the lights of your entire house.
   
   The Hub is simply a device that connects to all of the above appliances and allows you to control them virtually. I have a smartthigns hub. I really like it, but there are several other options that you can use. All have their benefits and drawbacks.
   
   As said above, the main job of the hub is to be the connection/control point for all of your appliances. The secondary bit is that each hub has a control OS that you interface with as a controller for your system. This will take two forms. First form is an app you can install on a tablet or smartphone that will allow you to set up routines or directly control every single connected appliance from wherever you are in the world. The second form (not on every hub) is a simple programming interface that gives you powerful customizing options to how you want to control your system. If you can imagine it (and code it) you can do it, pretty much.
   
   The controller group is also where the echo fits in. You don't need an echo, but it is an amazing addition. Typically having a smart system just meant you could control everything on cool customized timers, virtually from everywhere in the world, and from a centralized "remote" in your house instead of having to go to each device. With the echo you can skip the tablet "remote" all together and just speak to your house and it listens.
   
   I highly recommend diving into the world of an automated system. It is only a couple hundred dollars to get started and you can slowly build your system out over time. Check out /r/homeautomation for some more info too.

Like /u/JshWright, I use z-wave switches and dimmers that replace the physical switch. They're quite a bit more expensive, but easily fit in any switch junction box and don't have to connect to wifi.

I use either GE or Linear/GoControl brand. Both seem to work the same. Only reason I use a combination is because I'm picky and the white color of the Linear ones don't quite match the standard wall plates and switches. So I use the cheaper Linear switches for single gang boxes and the GE for multi:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2

https://www.amazon.com/Linear-WD500Z-1-Z-Wave-500-Watt-Wall-Mount/dp/B00E1OVFAK

3-way configurations are pretty easy with these, just might take you a bit to figure out which wires need to go where. With the GE switches you have one master switch like the one I linked above, and then their add-on switch for the others in the circuit. Linear has an add-on switch also, but it's like twice the price of the GE one. So I always use GE for 3 or 4-way switches:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ

I've looked at the HomeSeer ones too, which look pretty cool. They're Z-wave Plus and also support double and triple tap, although I'm not sure if HASS and/or OpenZWave support that function anyway.

http://www.homeseer.com/compare-z-wave-on---off-wall-switches.html

Sorry if there are formatting errors and such I am on mobile.

Basics

You should really consider a better HUB/products if you want this level of automation. You are going to want an offline hub such as Vera or Homeseer (what I use). Homeseer I know will interface with the echo Vera should. Hubs like wink/SmartThings end up not working when...

1. Your router doesn't work
   
2. Your ISP's connection drops
   
3. Hub's service provider (AWS most likely) goes down
   
4. Hub cloud service doesn't work or needs maintenance
   
5. Random outages/problems
   
   Similarly, you should NOT get a nest (or EcoBee). I have a nest and while I love the design it is fickle. I would instead recommend a z-wave thermostat. With a z-wave thermostat you can do almost everything nest can (no auto scheduling). Already Purchased
   
    
   
   You should seriously consider a different HUB
   
   

   Dimmers and Wall Switches
   

   
   Here is a good place to start. Lutron dimmers are fantastics although they can be a bit pricy (I don't think you mentioned a budget...). Other options include the GE 12724 for dimming if you want to go z-wave over Lutron. And, the GE 12722 for regular on/off. Or Homeseer is releasing new switches soon that look fantastic (Also z-wave)!
   
   Here's some more info. 1 2 3 4
   
   

   Garage Opener
   

   
   Chamberlain is great!
   
   

   Security
   

   
   If you cannot change/return your system that fine but I would recommend a DSC power series system as they almost universally integrate with automation systems Homeseer has a plugin as does Vera.
   
   

   Audio
   

   
   Sonos is fine. It can be controlled via Homeseer/Vera (Think announcements). Or you can get an Echo Dot and connect it to the sonos connect via an audio cable. GET a WHA controller (Check the Outdoor speaker section for recommendations)
   
   

   Front Door Cam/Doorbell
   

   
   Either Doorbird a doorbell and camera (expensive) or a normal doorbell with an IP camera with motion record. The integrated solution is better but of course more expensive. If you end up with IP cameras you should consider Hikvison they seem to make the best cameras for the money.
   
   

   Outdoor Light
   

   Just install the smart switch of your choice.
   
   

   Fan's
   

   Not sure sorry. :-( GE has a fan controlling switch but I doubt it would work as you mention remotes...
   
   

   Under Cabinet Lighting
   

   Hue lightstips, Aeon lightstrips or a WIFI / Z-wave LED controller with regular strips. (Will edit later with links)
   
   

   Outdoor Speakers
   

   The Daytons are fine you could also go with Yamaha NS-AW150. For integration you could connect them to the MONOPRICE 6 Zone Controller and AMP. You could also connect the Sonos CONNECT to the monopice and have outdoor audio + sonos audio and send audio to any other zones you have!
   
   
   
    
   
   PM me or comment if you need any more info :-)
   
    
   
   *Will edit and add more info when I get to a keyboard.

If you don't mind adding another hub you should check out Lutron Caseta. They are a bit more expensive than GE and Insteon but they're reliable and work well with HomeKit and Alexa. You can make scenes in the Caseta app and both the Home app and the Alexa app will be able to use the scenes that you created.

As for a fan switch the only option that works with HomeKit and Alexa is the Caseta Multi-Location Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_JZVyybFAGHSZQ

This wont be able to change the fan speed but it lets you turn the fan on and off.

As for setting scenes with the touch of a button, you could get a Harmony hub and some pop switches. The Harmony doesn't play well with HomeKit but it's pretty cool with Alexa. Although the app is kind of counter intuitive, it works well once you get it the way you want it.

Harmony Hub:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3RFC4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_I7VyybF2F7VWZ

Pop Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JO8TLMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_g6VyybPZPFZ51

You just want to make sure whatever smart switches you buy support 3-way configurations. Lutron Caseta does this by using their Pico Remotes, which is nice because the Picos are cheaper and easier to install than a second smart switch, but look and function pretty much just like a wired switch. I believe Caseta also offers a more expensive smart switch that allows traditional 3-way wiring too if for whatever reason you didn't want to use the Pico remotes.

You can see what I'm talking about here: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1WB-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B07HM6L48C/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=3-0-VW5kZXIgJDc1&keywords=lutron+caseta&pd_rd_i=B07HM6L48C&pd_rd_r=e254cde8-dfaf-4a70-a266-ee71bfc5abbb&pd_rd_w=fdPji&pd_rd_wg=loQTX&pf_rd_p=be5d8dec-444e-4770-91df-1e16a8c46da8&pf_rd_r=MKNJAE82S81QNN0KACY0&qid=1564160301&s=gateway

The switch comes with a "remote kit" (the Pico), which when screwed in to a switch box looks just like the switch, and the remote pairs to the switch to control the same light seamlessly. Lutron provides very good instructions for their products too.

edit: This starter kit adds the required hub as well, and includes everything you would need for your stair lights. Some will scoff at hubs, but it's needed for Caseta because they use RF for wireless communication, and I think the hub is worth it for Caseta at least because it's probably the fastest responding, most reliable smart switches available. Hubless Wi-Fi switches will never be as reliable and consistent. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B07G5V6M6G/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=4-1-QmV0d2VlbiAkNzUgYW5kICQxMDA%3D&keywords=lutron+caseta&pd_rd_i=B07G5V6M6G&pd_rd_r=e254cde8-dfaf-4a70-a266-ee71bfc5abbb&pd_rd_w=fdPji&pd_rd_wg=loQTX&pf_rd_p=be5d8dec-444e-4770-91df-1e16a8c46da8&pf_rd_r=MKNJAE82S81QNN0KACY0&qid=1564160301&s=gateway

Hey /u/Mercury357 !

Sorry I can't offer much advice when it comes to Inovelli or Zooz, but I'm sure you'll get a great response from some of the other members here.

I can however, relay that the GE Switches are on sale right now on Amazon for $30.99 and the GE Dimmers are on sale for $32.99

Our Add-On switches work great for 3 and 4-way setups as well, those run $19.50 right now

If you have any questions about GE product, feel free to ask. :)

The only keys I've seen are those ugly toggle things you see in schools.

I would highly suggest the motion sensor route. I know what you're thinking, but the ones I recommend work pretty good and are not annoying.

If the switch is located near the door where you come in and is not obstructed, you can put one of these in there: http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MSCL-OP153M-WH-Single-Pole-Multi-Location-Occupancy/dp/B00CAO4NUM/ . It's pretty smart and if someone turns it off, it will reset itself and after 5 minutes turn the motion sensor back on.

If it's a long hallway and you want to make it failsafe, you can get one of these ceiling attached motion sensors that runs off a battery that lasts at least 5 years: http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LRF2-OCR2B-P-WH-Wireless-Ceiling-Mounted-Occupancy/dp/B005LPET0G/

That motion sensor should be paired up with Maestro RF switches and dimmers like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MRF2-600MHW-WH-Wireless-Multi-Location-Wallplate/dp/B003U8Y9NS/ so it can work like any other dimmer, but will go off after a few minutes if nobody is there. You can set it to where it only works at night and if anybody is in the hall, it won't go off. It's very very accurate. Again, if someone turns it off, it will reset itself if nobody is around. If you are there, it will assume you turned it off for a reason and will keep it off. The logic in it is flawless.

Bonus, you can buy a pico remote switch (http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PJ2-3BRL-GWH-L01-Maestro-Wireless-Control/dp/B00IZCQVO4/) and also pair it up with the switch and just keep it in your car and turn the lights on from your driveway or bedroom (30 feet). It's kind of like a poor man's home automation.

Alternative, the TP-Link Switch is compatible with Home/Assistant, as are their Plugs and LED Bulbs. Note that there is no IFTTT support as of yet.

I have two Smart Bulbs and a Mini Plug in my living room right now. App-wise, they're controlled with Kasa on my phone and a tablet. I can turn on/off, set schedules, dim (except Plug), etc... and do everything but schedules with my Google Home.

The Switch is part of the same family of products, same core functionality across the board.

Not sure how 2 Switches controlling the same lights would work... but might be worth a shot. (edit: see posts below)

I can say, "Hey Google, turn off the lights.", or call out a specific lamp. The Plug is treated separate (attached to bias lighting behind my TV). It doesn't trigger on "lights" calls. I wonder if Switches are yet another category.

With the possibility of IFTTT support, I hope to get movie/tv show time going with a single command, which would dim/kill the Bulbs and kick on the Plug.

Aside from the above, I have my Bulbs set to turn on when I get up for work weekdays. I'm going to get another, color changing one for my bedside, put that on a circadian schedule (option in Kasa).

My venture in to this started off with a Belkin WeMo Mini, but it would not connect to my hidden network (should not be the case with latest fw). My case went all the way to an engineer but after testing a TP-Link Smart Plug, which worked flawlessly and imo, had a much easier setup, I tried the bulbs and now I'm all in with them. I returned my Belkin products but was able to discuss my issues with an engineer we had a solid conversation. Kudos to them.

Hope some of this helps!

On a budget, I would stay well clear of things like Hue- they are very expensive to scale up because they rely on each bulb being "smart", and this also means they are limited in terms of which light fittings you can use in the future.

Personally i've gone for a self-build Z-Wave option, preferring to embed z-wave dimmers in my walls (behind the light switch) and make my own controller from a raspberry pi + some software called "Domoticz". This means an initial outlay of about $70 for the pi+Zwave adaptor, and then a cost of $40 per room after that regardless of how many bulbs you need. A hue solution would be 3-4x the cost.

The downside (or upside depending on your POV!) is that you need to build this yourself - setup your own alexa bridge, install + configure domoticz, and be willing to handle the electrical connections to your switches. It's all really easy though if you have the desire to get stuck in (there are lots of youtube tutorials). You can save a lot of $$ though particularly if you are in the US where the parts are generally cheaper than the UK (Where I am), and your setup will be much more configurable than any off the shelf solution. You can also add more obscure devices easily to a domoticz setup. I have my security cameras hooked in for example and setup so that a relevant light will turn on when the motion sensing is triggered between certain hours, and my wifi kettle connected so I can ask alexa to turn the kettle on. It's rather fun and addictive once you get started :)

As a starting point here are a few links that may help:

• Razberry - the Z-wave adaptor for the pi - http://razberry.z-wave.me/
  
• Domoticz - home automation software (free) - https://www.domoticz.com/
  
• Alexa-Domoticz bridget - https://github.com/madgeni/alexa_domo
  
• Fibario dimmers (what I use) - http://www.vesternet.com/z-wave-fibaro-universal-dimmer-2-250w
  
• GE Dimmers (fine for US, not usable for me in the UK) https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2
  
  

I used this article for some cursory info on switches, and went with these in the end:

GE Smart Dimmer, Z-Wave, In-Wall, 12724

The price was good for how many switches I was installing, and I like them a lot except for two minor things:

1. The lights fade on/off a bit too slowly for my liking. This however can be changed by altering a setting from your Z-Wave hub, though I haven't had time to fiddle with that yet.
   
   
2. The rocker doesn't depress all the way, it sort of stops half-way and clicks. Most people won't care about this or probably even notice it, but it's a minor pet-peeve of mine.
   
   I also got a SmartThings Kit to control them while it was on sale for $100 off for Black Friday (it was the lowest price they've ever sold for, but it's currently $50, which is still pretty good). You can also just get the hub, but I wanted some sensors so the kit made sense to me.
   
   I wish the Hue Hub was a bit more robust, but sadly it can't be used directly in conjunction with any known in-wall switches. However, You can add Hue bulbs to SmartThings, so that can wind up being a central place to manage things.
   
   Personally, I also setup Home Assistant which lets me do a lot more with other product APIs, and lets me control the UI to some extent as well. Be warned though that it does require some understanding of code and servers. I setup the Home Assistant MQTT Bridge for SmartThings so it can talk to my ST Hub, and use it for automation instead of SmartThings. Hypothetically you can just get a Z-Wave USB stick for your Home Assistant server in lieu of something like SmartThings and have it act as a hub directly, but I felt getting a ST Hub was easier.
   
   Finally, I also got a Google Home while it was on sale, and used IFTTT to create custom commands so I can trigger scenes in Home Assistant for things like watching a movie on my projector, watching TV, getting ready for bed, etc. I also want to have it automatically turn the projector and TV on eventually as part of the scene, but haven't had time to play with that yet.
   
   It was a little annoying to setup, but I like it a lot now that everything's humming along.

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch

ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

• Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  
• The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains
  
  I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
  
  For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
  
  In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
  
  Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
  
  
• Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  
• Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)
  
  Great applications for door open/close sensors:
  
  
• Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  
• Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  
• Notify me when my gun safe is opened
  
  Great Application for Motion Sensors
  
  
• Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  
• Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark
  
  The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).

This is making sense now, I'm pretty sure I'm following you. Black in your hot, white is your neutral, bare wire is ground, red wire is "load", this is the switch line. The fact that you have this in the outlet box coming from the ceiling is good.

So, I'm assuming that when you pull the fan down, you will see that there is a fan controller that is hooked up to the black and white wires. Making it permanently "hot" the fan controller then relays the fan on and off. You will find the red wire abandoned, it used to be used (or was intended to be used) to switch the light, it is still attached to the "load" of the switch.

You are in good shape.... GE makes a pretty good z wave fan control module. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ. You will remove the fan module and hook the black wire to the black wire of the fan and the blue wire to the red wire. The white wires should all be tied together and it should be capped off in the box the physical switch is.

Here is a diagram. http://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/images/fan-switch-loop.gif

yeah, that's not normal. 6 LED bulbs definitely shouldn't overload a dimmer switch (a quick look at the dimmer switch data sheet says it should handle 150W of LED load), but an easy way to test is to unscrew all but one of them and see if that single bulb has full dimming range. You might also take one of these bulbs and put it in a normal switched light socket, and see if it goes to full brightness.

If the flickering is happening to all the bulbs at the same time, it's almost certainly the dimmer switch. All 6 bulbs having an identical flaw seems pretty unlikely. The flicker indicates it's not a software issue with your Vera, either.

Both the GE zwave dimmers and the Linear/2gig zwave dimmers work pretty well and are about the same price as that dragon tech dimmer. It's also possible your dragon tech dimmer is just a one-off lemon and the brand itself is generally fine.

I did this exactly in my backyard. I threw one of the more expensive Caseta dimmers INSIDE a weatherproof box outside and hard wired my patio lights into the junction box. It could have just as easily been the cheaper dimmer or the regular 6A switch and not the dimmer and it would have worked just as well. I spent a little more on the more expensive dimmer because the load was so low with the patio lights (20w total) that I didn't want any flickering or weirdness. I hardwired only because I didn't NEED a dimmable outlet, but you could also just as easily put a receptacle after the dimmer/switch.

​

I say all that just to let you know what you are asking for is entirely doable, like cduff77 mentioned, just get the plug-in dimmer, tie off the wall switch so it's always on and replace it with a wall mounted pico pemote. The whole thing will run you about $75 but it is well worth it.

​

Lutron hit it out of the PARK with Caseta, it's the most reliable smart device I have, and I have a ton (Ring Doorbell, August Lock, Philip's Hue, EcoBee Thermostat). All they need is to come out with a multi-speed fan controller and a couple of smart outlets (Controllable with Picos, just like you want) and they will own the game.

1. Correct. All controllers can pull that off however you should keep in mind some controllers (wink/smart things) lose some functionality when the internet (or their cloud) is down.
   
   
2. Odds are you can do what you want but I'm not sure when you'd want to eliminate local control entirely.
   
   
3. Wifi device support is pretty sketchy across the board. Assuming the pond pump is run off your house panel, you could just add a zwave switch where the wiring leaves your house. Or if you don't have space for a gang box switch, you could add these in your house: https://www.buydig.com/shop/product/AEONDSC27/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd-Edition-DSC27103-ZWUS
   
   
4. I don't have wink, so can't say. I'd suggest comparing it to something like the RTS CT101 (aka Lowe's Iris) zwave thermostat. It works with a huge range of HVAC systems and is quite inexpensive.
   
   
5. Any zwave switch will do, assuming you don't need a dimmer.
   The device you want is called a "scene controller" and there are actually lots of them. I think for your uses you might like this one:
   https://byjasco.com/products/ge-z-wave-wireless-keypad-controller
   
   or https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-WA00Z-1-Z-Wave-Scene-Controller-Switch/dp/B01BKWG9XS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499479563&sr=8-1&keywords=zwave+scene+controller+battery
   
   I have a couple of minimotes (https://www.buydig.com/shop/product.aspx?sku=E1AEONMINIMOTE ) in my house scattered around. The rechargeable batteries are generally good for ~2 months. I use a label maker to make the buttons purpose clear. My minimotes general have one button for thermostat up, another for thermostat down, and then two different lamp/lighting functions.

Like others have said, the issue is more with space in the box behind the unit than it is side to side once you break off the heatsink tabs on the appropriate side. Here are a couple thoughts from my experience installing some a couple days ago:

1. Break off the tabs before connecting the wires to the switch. I forgot about the tabs on the first one I was doing until after I was ready to start screwing it back into the box. Also in a two-gang box you'll only need to break them off on the inward facing sides. On 3+ gang the central switches would need both sides done. Regardless, breaking them off before rather than after is much easier.
   
   
2. A good pair of pliers makes that much easier. I started out using a crappy pair of pliers from the toolkit that came as a "free gift" with the house because they happened to be closer at hand. The work could've been done with those pliers, but it became about 5 times easier and faster when I went out to the garage to get a better pair out of the toolbox.
   
   
3. On a couple of the switches I was working on, I noticed there was way more wire in the box than is actually needed. Normally I would be in favor of leaving excess extra in case it is needed for some future change, but a pair with a pair of wire cutters/strippers you can remedy much of the cursing other users are warning about when stuffing everything back in by removing some of the excess. Obviously only do that if you're confident you're leaving enough to work with both now and in the future.
   
   
4. Not related to the wiring, but I believe the one you linked to is not Z-wave Plus (just regular Z-wave). The Z-wave Plus version is available (looks like the same price right now, though the Plus version was actually slightly cheaper recently) here.
   
   
5. Also not related to wiring, but I've noticed there is a brief delay with the GE switches (I got the z-wave plus version, but I don't think that is the problem) between pressing it and the lights activating. This was even before connecting to any hub, so it's not a delay there. I'm assuming it's something I'll get used to in time, but it's worth being aware of before you buy them.

This is my system:
Network Diagram

I have several switches like this: Zwave Switch, some are on/off like that, some are dimmers. For my dining room I have a hanging light with 5 bulbs. I can control all 5 with one dimmer.

I use a SmartThings hub to control everything. So I can walk in to the room and hit the switch like decades of muscle memory has taught me, or I can say "Alexa turn on the dining room light". Google integrates with SmartThings too, I just have a Echo Dot and Ecobee 4 already. Guests don't have to guess how to turn on and off a light. It looks and acts just like the switch that used to be there.

If you have WiFi bulbs that you control through Google it still gives you the same end result but there are more points of possible failure in that path. If you leave the room and turn off the switch they are useless until you turn the switch back on. Any WiFi device answers to it's home base server. Each and every bulb has to ping home to check in and ask for commands. So each bulb is working separately. Even if you create a group in Google home, it's still 10 bulbs. All 10 have to be working perfectly for them all to turn on together. You may end up with one bulb that didn't get the memo and stays off, or more likely they will turn on at slightly different times due to latency. You ask Google to do something, Google has to ask the bulb server to do something, and the bulb server has to ask the bulb to do something.

A hub may still call home the same way, but it's a single point. The hub then sends the command locally to the device directly. It should be more reliable and faster that way.

The only time that smart bulbs make sense to me is if you really really want color changing bulbs. Otherwise it's simpler and more cost effective to use a switch. Bulbs will always burn out, even LED bulbs. Dumb bulbs are cheaper to replace down the line. The switch shouldn't ever need to be replaced.

Many new people resist getting a hub. See it as an unnecessary expense. But over time the limitations of a hubless system will show up, and the hub often doesn't work well with the WiFi devices, so you end up re-buying everything. So in the long run it's cheaper and easier to just bite the bullet and get a home control hub that uses Zwave or Zigbee. You can still add voice control with Google or Alexa to most hubs.

Many companies make Zwave devices, it's a standard and there is competition to keep prices in check. And if these companies go out of business tomorrow the Zwave devices they already made still work. If the company that made a WiFi device goes out of business the device stops working. That's a real risk for a cheap Chinese made WiFi device, it can be abandoned without notice.

If Samsung killed SmartThings tomorrow, my entire Zwave network is portable. I could get a Wink, Vera, HomeSeer, HomeAssistant, etc and only have to replace one piece of hardware to be back up and running. So it's a scalable and portable methodology.

Edit:
I thought of another analogy. A hubless system of WiFi devices is like organizing a pot luck with a group of friends. You have to get them all to agree to a certain time, organize who is going to do what, carpools, etc and pray no one forgets something or flakes or breaks down. A hub based system is like giving a command to an Army general. You give one command and they get it done. You can give the general standing order and they will act on their own, when such-and-such happens, do this-or-that.

All your eggs are in one basket, but lots of people make baskets, and the eggs can be moved easily.

The bulbs run into the issues you already have with your s\o. Always at some point someone will have those issues with the bulbs. Also when the bulb goes out you have to get an entire new smart bulb and sync that into your system. And outside of the more expensive brands are you sure the app is gonna be kept up to date for security? Or even have the cloud server still operating in 5 years so they even work? Having your own zwave or zigbee hub ensures that it will always work because your setup is not dependant on a server in "the cloud". The smart switches I am talking about actually replace your current in wall switches so they work the same and look the same. (Or close enough that it's not a noticeable difference.) Here is a basic on off switch that I have used. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VYCFXT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_nF5IDbWFE6V11
These kind of switches need a neutral wire in the box and need a hub (premade or diy like openhab) to become smart. If you don't have a neutral wire and can't run one you will need (sometimes more expensive) battery powered controllers that cover your current switch.
Here is one I use that actually switches the regular switch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K3TRG6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_tK5IDb8VDBB5H
There are also setup options that use a button that sits over your switch and you leave the switch on and the button controls smart bulbs but those can be harder to set up plus the cost of both smart switch and smart bulbs. There are zwave and zigbee bulbs for cases where a bulb is a better choice but most of the time switches are better.

You can get ROLLS of remote controllable LED lights online. My husband and I use them for lighting our computer cases for instance. Just do a little research in the reviews to make sure people have a good experience with their safety and longevity for the price. https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Changing-Flexible-Controller-44-button/dp/B0040FJ27S

If you are looking for an easy solution around 100 to 200 give philips HUE a try? You can control with your phone and they have a couple of products that provide ambient lighting. https://www.amazon.com/Philips-259945-Bloom-Frustration-Free/dp/B00I12YFP0/ref=pd_sim_60_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=41j4KdlKf9L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=YGM42E2837A7BAV7AW3M and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0W3CI0/ref=s9_dcacsd_bhz_bw_c_x_6 and they have lots of other hue products too.

You could build up a crown moulding with a small shelf before the ceiling then line it with rope lighting to create a lit ceiling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaSHR6mfbRE

You could buy a couple of lamps from ikea, craigslist, marshalls, tj max, home goods, then put lower wattage lights (40w or 25w) in them on the 2700 (warmer) side of the spectrum. Dimmable lamps would be a plus just make sure the bulbs are dimmable too. They could be standard lamps, wall mounted plug in lamps, pendants you plug in then hang from the ceiling or even something more zen like a salt lamp: https://www.amazon.com/YYout-Himalayan-Crystal-Dimmable-Electric/dp/B01DP47SDY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469690772&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=dimmable+salt+lamp&psc=1


You can put any pluggable light on a remote with a light switch remote. They can be pretty handy... Or the clapper lol. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1469690399&sr=1-7&keywords=plug+remote

If you currently have two switches, one for the fan and one for the light, you can get these. I have this setup in my living room and it's pretty sweet. You just need to set up the fan switch as a dimmer so that you can remotely adjust the fan speed just like you would a dimmer.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch

> I'm okay buying a hub

IF that's the case, then I'd get a hub. It gives you a lot more flexibility in smart options, more options for home automation, and you're not stuck just doing hue or through Wifi. I like SmartThings; plenty of people around here want something more sophisticated, and that's fine, but if you're just getting started it's a perfectly viable solution. The SmartThings hubs will allow you to get any Zwave or Zigbee switches. I'm a big fan of the GE switches; there's also a dimmer version. I haven't done much cross comparison, I've just never had a problem with any of the GE switches I own (~20). That said, the price keeps creeping up, so I've picked up some of the old Jasco ones, which is the switch that eventually became the GE Switch. The old ones are only Z wave, not Z-wave+, but I haven't had issue with those either.

So you would realistically do smart switches instead of having smart bulbs. The only reason I would see to use smart bulbs is because you don't own the property or because you want the ability to change colors of a color lightbulb.

> Do smart switches always keep the smart bulbs powered?

It depends on what you mean by smart switches. You would realistically just use a smart switch like this. The light switch itself would always have power no matter if you turn the light on or off (unless you kill the breaker), so you could control it no matter the state of the light.

Your best bet if you want to continue using the smart bulbs, and not smart switches, is by buying the Philips Hue Dimmer switches. You would still need the power for the light to be on (meaning don't touch it/block it off if needed). They would still be at the mercy of people using the light switch itself.

But, unless you rent or need color control, it doesn't make sense to keep dropping money on this path.

You could do this using zwave devices. It will cost some money up front but you'll have a solid base to build out more complex home automation tasks if you want to.

You can turn any computer into a local "hub" with a Zwave USB dongle. This one is pricey but works really well. Plug that into a spare laptop lying around the house or buy a Raspberry PI.

Install the Home Assistant package on the computer or PI that you plugged the dongle into. This makes it easy to send and receive signals from Zwave devices without having to learn a bunch of low level APIs. You can write automation commands using YAML markup or write complex, custom tasks using Python. Home Assistant is just a bundle of open source free software, so I don't think of it as a "service", but you could roll your own software if you like that replaces it. It all runs locally, not in the cloud, so you own and control it.

Now you can buy any Zwave switch you want. GE has a bunch of reasonable priced switches.

You can get an "add on" switch that does not hook into your home power but controls smart light bulbs like Hue using over the air signals.

Or you can buy a real switch that does control existing lights through the power in your home -- this will let you send signals to your switch using your Home Assistant "hub" to turn lights on or off and dim them without having to replace existing bulbs.

Have fun.

Do you mean a normal side and a dimmer side, for two separate lights/loads, in a single gang? No, I don't.

If you mean a smart switch for a single load, with separate normal and dimming actions, Lutron Caseta has four buttons (on/off with dim up/down in the middle). Those are quite popular, mainly due to their ability to work without requiring a neutral in the electrical box, plus the flexibility of their Pico remote that pairs with them, allowing 3-or-more-way switches, even in places that aren't wired, but won't work directly with Alexa without picking up a Lutron Caseta hub.

Switch/Pico kit
Switch/Pico/hub kit
Pro hub (if needed, for example, with a solution like Hubitat)

GE makes Decora-style paddles that are tap top on, tap bottom off, and hold top/bottom for dimming; they're Zwave and work with Alexa ... if you have the 2.0 with smart home hub. They need a neutral, however.

GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer Switch (also Zwave Plus and Zigbee options)

GE and Lutron also make ceiling fan controls that match their light switch products.

I'd recommend going with a SmartThings hub. The Echo can easily interface with it, and you can control it from both your iPhones and Apple Watch (I find the utility of controlling things from my Mac to be pretty low, and so don't really bother -- but I'll mention one possible solution below).

Here's what I recommend:

1. Get and install a SmartThings Hub along with the iOS and watchOS apps (if you install SmartThings Classic, your phone can send and install the watchOS app to your watch through the Watch app).
   
2. There is a SmartApp for SmartThings you can install to connect to and control your MyQ garage door
   
3. Ring already works with SmartThings, so nothing to really do here.
   
4. For the lighting, I recommend installing smart switches, replacing your existing light switches for the lights in question. I like the GE switches myself.
   
5. If you really want to be able to control everything from your Mac(s), install and configure HomeBridge. This bit of software will emulate Apple HomeKit for the devices connected to your SmartThings Hub. Then you can simply use the Home app built into macOS 10.14 to connect to and organize your devices for use on your Macs, iPad, iPhone, and Apple Watch.
   
   HTH!

So the plus just gets you Zigbee control. I have an Echo Plus, but all my smart home devices are wifi, and not Zigbee (except a few hue lights, but I already have the hub for that).

So I'm controlling:

• 2 smart light switches, 1 smart dimmer (all wemo)
  
  
• ~6 hue bulbs
  
  
• 2 tp link bulbs
  
  
• wemo outlet
  
  All over wifi.
  
  You'd need the echo plus to control:
  This light switch without a hub, but you wouldn't need it for this other switch.
  
  I did some googling, and it looks like no Apple TVs do Zigbee. So the normal echo should be able to do everything it can currently do. The plus just opens the option to directly control Zigbee devices.
  
  edit: as /u/RichardBLine correctly pointed out, Echo Plus supports Zigbee and not Z-wave. I've updated the post and links. Thanks!

Disabled gamer here. I have my own cab which is designed for someone of my short stature to use. I'd offer blueprints but we made it over a decade ago and I don't think it'd work for wheelchairs, anyway.

I can add a suggestion for the PC inside it, though. If you get a PC that boots up on power events, you can have a wireless remote control power socket handle booting up the cab and getting it ready to go. No futzing around with switches behind the cabinet or anything like that. I've got one of these and it works great, I click a button on the small remote control and a minute later I'm in my front-end and gaming.

I'd also suggest checking out my spreadsheet of PC games with cabinet support and accompanying video as they may be relevant. Steam has a lot of games which can work well with limited and rebindable controls, for both cabinets and disabilities alike... but a few landmines where games that look like they should work are a complete pain to configure.

Lastly, consider checking out AbleGamers, a nonprofit dedicated to doing exactly what you're doing -- adapting controls and game systems for disabled access.

Happy gaming!

You are welcome, as far as the camera goes I search on eBay and use the keywords "Vivint ping camera" (I am unsure how to link an auction from my phone. As far as add ons to my system I use 2gig PIR1 Passive Infrared Motion Detector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TZ73C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ng.CzbM9GCJSE for the motion sensor, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wi.Czb8H4K514 for my dimmers, Previous Model: GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1i.CzbBD0V1RF for my ceiling fans, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12721 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lj.CzbQAY9KV4 for my outlets. I have found home automation to be addicting and expensive haha.

The Z-Wave system is designed for interoperability, with management by a local hub that reaches out to the cloud as necessary. Hence there are many manufacturers, competitive pricing, interchangeable components, flexible control modalities. Also, a huge range of sensors, modules, controllers, locks, remote controls, and thermostats in addition to switches.

Wi-Fi smart devices are focused on ease of installation. Without standardized interfaces, the only way to offer remote control is through cloud management. Configuration and automation could be provided through a switch-hosted web server, but since the whole point is remote control and Echo/GH integration - and since the manufacturer has an eye on your data and your possible future income stream - the cloud solution wins. Wi-Fi power requirements means that in general these devices must be hardwired.

Non-cloud Kasa support requires an always-on computer running node.js, with manual device installation and static IP addresses everywhere. This is only an issue if TP-Link abandons the product or starts charging, in which case you have to decide whether it's worth the hassle...

I have a bunch of GE/Jasco switches and dimmers and one each of Leviton and Evolve - and also door/window sensors, motion sensors, thermostat, door lock, lamp modules, remotes, wall controllers, and garage door sensor.

The switches are all pretty much indistinguishable. GE/Jasco and HomeSeer 3-ways require a proprietary companion switch but you can dim from the companion and up always=on, down=off. Zooz and Inovelli 3-ways use your existing remote switch but no remote dimming and remote setting is random.

Yeah, you can do that! I've become a big fan of Zooz switches [Amazon]. The linked one there is the ZEN26, which is for on/off switches (as opposed to dimmers). An important note: Zooz switches are Z-wave, meaning they need a hub (like SmartThings or HomeSeer) to control via Google home.

If you don't want to get a hub, there are plenty of other options available. TP-Link makes some great switches, and their app is wonderful. You just set up the switches, then connect your TP-Link account to your Google account, and then all of your switches can be controlled from the Google Home app or your Google home mini.

The process of rewiring the switches is quite simple, and there are plenty of video resources available. But, as always, have a professional do it if you're not confident.

Reply back here if you have other questions, I'd be happy to try and help!

For sure, but for someone to be as good as he is at coaching the defense, I personally think he has to understand a lot about offense, that is just some random guy on the internets gut feeling though. Plus smart coaches/leaders tend to surround themselves with people smarter then them in things they lack depth in. Personally I would love someone with his intensity leading the whole team instead of the guy that invested in The Clapper

Hue ecosystem uses the Zigbee protocol. The Hue app can only control lights out of the box. There is only 1 fan controller for HA that I'm aware of and that's the GE zwave fan controller which requires a z-wave hub similar to SmartThings which also integrates with Hue and it works pretty well.


GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ

I like the GE Z-wave smart dimmer paddle. I've installed 4 of them and 2 add-on switches for the three way switches. No issues so far, they were easy to install, the videos they have on YouTube are very easy to follow. I set up a price alert on amazon for these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LQFHN2/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and nabbed them when they got down to $33 each, which is about the best price I've seen.

GE makes good z wave plus smart switches capable of 3 way switching. You would buy one of these

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K4LZzbMEWM70Q

And one of more of these

GE Add-On Switch for GE Z-Wave, GE ZigBee and GE Bluetooth Wireless Smart Lighting Controls, NOT A STANDALONE SWITCH, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, 12723 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y5LZzb3VB99ZF

We are in the process of doing this now. We decided to go the smart dimmer option. Bought the switch because it doesn't require a separate hub, works great with Alexa but that's it, hoping that expand ability will increase over time with software revs. Also note you will need a neutral wire for the dimmers, we are retrofitting an old house so that required an extra day in the attic to re-wiring and running our power line appropriately.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NASBN1V/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Most gas fireplaces today us a millivolt gas value. If your fireplace happens to have a fan switch or 120v available near the fireplace switch you maybe in luck. I used the 120v from the fan of my fireplace in parallel to power a relay and added a Lutron Caseta switch in series to turn the 120v on/off to the relay which in turn opens or closes the contacts for the low voltage solenoid. The added benefit of using a smart switch is being able to add it to my voice assistant Alexa or Home Assistant.

120v White wire -> relay <--> smart switch <- 120v Black wire

..................................coil.................................................................

......millivolt line<-> N.O. <-> millivolt line.......

Some more info on fireplace wiring.

There are fireplace remotes available depending on your fireplace's solenoid.

Ah completely different topic than I was expecting. The 12 solution I showed for the $18 battery seems like it would a perfect rechargeable replacement with significantly longer battery life.

Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-8601-Magnetic-Switch/dp/B0009SUF08

May be an alternative solution with a magnetic switch. You could put one end of the magnet on the trunk. As this magnetic package isn't the best, you can probably take any strong magnet and paint it black and adhere that in some fashion you see appropriate to the back of your trunk, and the light will turn on upon opening of the trunk.

I'm surprised they didn't put a light in that compartment for when you open the trunk, my civic hatchback has one back there which I've considered replacing with high end LEDs.

Heh, it's just my work office building. I guess I could try and use a spare ethernet at an unused desk to plug in the hub, but I'd rather just get something on the wifi.

I found this thing that says it can connect to 5 ghz in the user manual. Little expensive but probably my fastest option.

I'm just having some fun. It's something in a friend's office to tell them that I'm heading to lunch. Probably going to be some kind of lamp or laser projector. Just want to be able to turn it on and off from anywhere. Wish list would be something with an app that plays nicely with tasker too.

I did this to my house a few months ago to three bedrooms, all three fans had one switch for power but in order to turn the fan on/off we had to pull the chain. I ended up adding a dual switch box and adding an additional switch and running 12/3 wire so I could adjust speed control. All of the fans had to be removed and I had to go up in the attic which is never fun and locate the wiring in the fan in blown in insulation. I had to also add junction boxes because the wiring to the fans was a mess. There was 3 different wires per fan going in. The fan is just on a regular switch now but I will eventually add these https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Single-Pole-PD-FSQN-WH-Assistant/dp/B07N1GXM38/ref=sr_1_4?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs4WZ5Lqr5AIVTvDACh2F6QFYEAAYAiAAEgKmt_D_BwE&hvadid=338638128383&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9022848&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=b&hvrand=2184929728076076276&hvtargid=kwd-584282680984&hydadcr=6949_9591722&keywords=lutron+caseta+fan+speed+control&qid=1567197826&s=gateway&sr=8-4

so that I can adjust speed on fan as well as control them with our iphones and have them turn off automatically in the mornings.

You mentioned he's going to stack the switch, so something like this? https://www.build.com/fanimation-wc2/s1631826?uid=3871881&source=gg-gba-pla_with_promotion_3871881!c1710655136!a69464684849!dc!ng&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9KXIo7ur5AIVwcDACh3b6AiAEAQYASABEgIdpfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I don't know if you're paying too much, depends what the cost of living is where you are. You could get another estimate and compare but don't always go with the cheaper guy because it's cheaper.

Do you think you'll use the features of the Hue bulbs? Like do you need the different colors or are you just looking to remotely control the lights?

I originally went with LIFX but decided that I didn't like the idea of having to replace every light bulb in my house with smart bulbs. Instead I've been opting for the GE Z Wave Plus switches and I've been loving them.

This way it doesn't matter what bulb is used, the whole switch is smart.

the beauty of the z-wave light switches is that if somebody turns off the light by hand, you can always switch it back on with automation. so you'll always be able to control the hues from automation app.
[these ge switches](GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer, In-Wall, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KEO3xbHRNDQBB)

another reason i went with z-wave switches is that i can mix and match my bulb types. some fixtures can be plain led bulbs and still have on/off or dimming capability via the switch.

the velcro solution is a neat one and i'd probably end up doing just that if i was in an apt or unwilling to spend extra money.

This is going to format like shit because I'm copying it straight from an email I wrote my sister.
The important bits: the hub is Samsung Smartthings, switches are mostly GE zwave switches, voice control provided by Amazon Echo.
Rolling it out across the whole house isn't easy or cheap, but it's worth it when you have someone over and you give the "turn on everything" command and you watch every light pop on, then do it in reverse.
This will get you started :)
>
> Switches: http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2
>
> Add-on Switches (for 3+ way): http://www.amazon.com/GE-12723-Add-On-Switch/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
>
> Dimmer:  http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Dimmer-In-Wall-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2
>
> Fan: http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
>
> SmartThings: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE
>
> Door Locks: http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-Camelot-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=lp_511306_1_2?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284077&sr=1-2
>
> Thermostat:  http://www.amazon.com/Nest-Learning-Thermostat-Generation-Works/dp/B0131RG6VK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284145&sr=1-2&keywords=thermostat+smart
>
> Echo (for voice control): http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-SK705DI-Echo/dp/B00X4WHP5E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284177&sr=1-1&keywords=echo
>

There are other things like motion sensors and garage door controllers that start opening up some really cool "routines."

Yes, you need a smart bulb for every bulb in the fixture.

If you have a neutral in the switchbox (IEC code in America since 2011), you can add a smart switch. Z-Wave, Zigbee smart switches require a hub. Kasa makes a Wifi smart switch as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1536589791&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_amazon_certified%3A16741513011

Here’s a set of two dimmer switches, hub and remotes. No neutral wire required for these so couldn’t be easier to fit

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG2W-Assistant/dp/B01M3XJUAD/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1535840828&sr=1-7&keywords=lutron+caseta

And here’s just the hub and a basic switch. You do need a neutral for the switch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPW67ZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017LRCG38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It’s not cheap to get started for sure (mainly due to that bridge) but Caseta, apart from HomeBridge, has been my most solid HomeKit device. The bridge never requires a restart in my experience. I honestly wish I hadn’t invested so much in Hue before I used this.

Might be able to install something like this and use it with any fan. http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ and use it with smart things. If you have a fan with infrared control you could hook it up to logitech harmony, then to smart things, then to alexa.

Just wifi does not mean it is or would be compatible with Alexa at all.. Do you have a hub such as Smart Things or Wink? If so, you're at least on the right track.. you would need this product, which is very hard to get your hands on. This isn't compatible with Alexa just yet, but should be on the road map.

Aside from that, you can wire up two switches, like GE Zwave Fan Control, Lutron, Leviton Fan Control, ect. for Light and Fan independently. These run to the hubs mentioned above and than can be found via Alexa. Sometimes the hub isn't needed, it really depends on your home setup and which switch you want, and the functions you're after. Either way, these are zwave devices, not wifi.

Thanks! The switch is a long ways from my hub. However, I have a kwikset deadbolt there and it seems to work just fine. I am hoping it will work.

Is this the switch?

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa / Google Home, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pPg5ybFJ9EEK7

The switch I'm installing tonight/tomorrow is just a GE Z-wave switch, one of these. The fan that I have operates on standard 110 power, it's almost exactly one of these

Installing it last weekend was a lot of work, so I haven't ran a real switch to it yet. I cheated and wired it up to an extension cord, and plugged that in to a wifi outlet. I just wanted to see it in action and ran out of time before mother's day plans happened.

So no existing timer switch yet. If I wasn't doing a z-wave switch, I'd be installing a timer switch like you have. That's what my neighbor has and he says it works great. I'll use a timer component to set this up so that it turns off automatically after a period as well.

EDIT: Also, thanks for making me think about automatic "shut off" conditions! Auto shut off is a great idea.

What you want to accomplish is certainly possible, however, you have a 3-way switch, so you will have to replace both switches. GE makes a 3-way compatible z-wave dimmer switch that I've used in my house that I've been pretty happy with. You will need to install the z-wave dimmer on your load switch (where the hot line comes in) and an "add-on" switch on the other 3-way switch. The photo you posted appears to be of your non-load switch since there isn't a black line connected to the switch, but to be sure you should test the load portion of the switch with a multimeter.

Here's links to the GE switches I use:
GE Z-Wave Dimmer
Add-On Switch

Edit: Upon looking at the photo you posted again, I do see a black line, but I can't see how it's connected to the switch. It's possible this is your primary load switch, but again I'm would test with a multimeter to be sure.

If the bulbs are in light fixtures you can use smart wall switches like this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW6HD-1BZ-Incandescent-Required-Assistant/dp/B01NASBN1V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=leviton+decora+smart+wifi&qid=1550146868&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 If they are in lamps you can use a smart plug like this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW6HD-1BZ-Incandescent-Required-Assistant/dp/B07H3JVZJZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=leviton%2Bdecora%2Bsmart%2Bwifi&qid=1550146868&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&th=1

There are cheaper options as well.

1. You don't mount fans to light boxes. You mount them to fan braces like this. They are SUPER easy to install.
   
   
2. When you do this, install a wireless remote control or a basic wall switch with remote (I use these) or a crazy voice-activated one like this. You have to do this BEFORE you mount the fan to the ceiling.

Here's an option to consider. If you go with a SmartThings hub and compatible devices including this switch that covers the existing physical switch, it's entirely possible to have a physical switch that refuses to turn lights on after it is pressed during the night while allowing it during the day (providing your WiFi lights work with SmartThings - the list is here). It will take some advanced programming using webCORE (the super powerful web-based SmartThings automation system) but it sounds like it would be incredibly useful for your particular situation.

Thanks guys, great ideas. I may just end up keeping it on or buy something like this:

GE Wall-Switch Light Control Remote with 1 Outlet Receiver, Wireless, White, 18279 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R7Q7PT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_84szybSEGFAY6

And put the switch under my desk or something and power it on remotely when I want to play.

Probably the best $40 home improvement I've made so far! I have a Lutron Maestro LED Dimmer switch with motion sensor on my kitchen lights. It senses when I enter my main doors so if my hands are full of groceries the lights come on automatically. I frequently enter and exit my kitchen area and it feels great to not have to walk to where the switch is located every time. YMMV. You can program the dimmer level, sensitivity, and timer settings depending on the room. It always works like a normal switch so no loss in functionality. It's 100% reliable even my dog trips the sensor. I've had a great experience with the 1 Lutron I have. I just picked up a Lutron Smart Lighting kit but I have a feeling the dumb occupancy sensor is going to end up better overall at 1/2 the cost.

Z-wave switches will do what you want and are compatible with Smartthings. I have a few GE dimmers but they also make non-dimming switches. You can get them for about $35, sometimes less.

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles and Zwave Repeater Range Extender, Works with Amazon Alexa (Hub Required), 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_shK0AbC9YFRW8

Can’t speak to how well they control fans or how they work in the same setup as the Lutron Casetta.

So what I was thinking of was like this switch, but maybe I was having a bit of a brain fart and confusing parts... This one is specifically designed for a multi speed ceiling fan type device. I had thought that there was a concern about wattages on a bathroom exhaust type fan too, but looking at this switch it specifically lists fans as compatible (at least as long as they are under 600w).

Edit: ah ha! The warning is to not use a standard dimmer switch to control fan speed... use a specific fan rated dimmer... or like the first link above.

Ok so here is the breakdown of what I am doing and a couple more photos of the UI and videos of it in action.

Here is the configuration.yaml and ui-lovelace.yaml files on Github.

The main components that are currently being used on the front end are:

• TP-Link/Kasa WiFi switches/outlets
  
  • HS100, HS105, HS200, HS210, HS220
    
• TP-Link/Kasa WiFi bulbs
  
  • LB130, LB200, LB230
    
• Ecobee 4 with 4 remote sensors
  
• August Lock and Connect
  
• Automatic
  
• Harmony Hub
  
• Foscam cameras
  
  • C1, R2e, FI9928P, FI9900PR
    
• Abode security system
  
• Darksky forecast
  
• Speedtest
  
  I intend for the UI to be displayed on a few Fire HD8 tablets. One that will be centrally located on the main floor of the house. Two others will be used as nightstand clocks in the master bedroom.
  
  At a high level, all I have done is drawn the floor plan and layouts in Sketch and exported individual assets as pngs and position them within a picture-elements card mostly utilizing image and its state_image. I would basically just plop down the button or icon or whatever with style: "top":50% "left":50%. Once the asset was in the UI I would inspect it via Chrome's dev tools inspector and select the parent container that the style was being set on. I would then manually adjust the top and left percentages until I was satisfied. I would then update ui-lovelace.yaml to include the new values and double check them in the browser.
  
  For the buttons, currently the button background and button text are baked into the image but I intend to change that soon. Basically the indicator light is actually the same size as the whole button its just 95% of it is transparent.
  
  Here are some screen caps (since i just posted photos from my phone last night)
  
  Here are a couple videos of it in action:
  
  
• Flipping a couple switches
  
• Switching between tabs
  
  Thats all I can think of for now to answer the basics... I am more than happy to go deeper into anything anyone has any questions about

The only thing I don't like about this is the smart switch. I'd love if they could fade off and on. Any ideas for a smart controller/smart dimmer? Maybe there's a smart outlet that has dimming capabilities.

Edit: Found one

Lutron Casseta has one, but that falls into the category of requiring a hub. However Alexa and Harmony can both control that hub.
I think the Aeontec micro dimmer switches can be wired up in a 3 way configuration. Just watch your power draw on them. However, you will need a z-wave hub to accommodate, which the harmony hub can't do by itself.
And I think these GE Switches should be capable of being wired in three way because they have a traveler wire. However, you will again need a hub to manager z-wave devices.

I use leviton all over. In single pole and 3/4 way applications. They don't require a hub either, which is nice. BTW, Both the regular and the dimmer have "Remote" switches that are needed for the 3 way applications.


I love these things.

Leviton DW15S-1BZ Decora Smart Wi-Fi 15A LED/Incandescent Switch, No Hub Required, Neutral Wire Required, Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU9SH77?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Leviton DW6HD-1BZ Decora Smart Wi-Fi 600W Incandescent/300W LED Dimmer, No Hub Required, Neutral Wire Required, Works with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NASBN1V?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I was thinking about a simple outlet for the TV/stereo but the harmony hub looks interesting. Thanks for the tip.

There's a bit of a problem with the light switch. I was thinking about something like this, but there aren't any available in Germany (The TP link switch costs 100€, instead of $40-50).

Consider doing some homework first, e.g. take a look at Home Security Projects for Raspberry Pi. That will give you some basic ideas and some direction that you may want to explore. Remember, the Raspberry Pi is more of a general purpose single board computer and needs sensors and coding to get it where you want it. I would strongly suggest you look at some websites dealing with Python coding on the RPi. Don't be afraid to explore. What you are looking at doing has been done by many people over the years, just in different ways. An example sensor (for the door kicking) would be to mount a magnetic reed switch and sense the opening or closing of the door using the GPIO pins on the RPi. Good Luck!

Get a outlet remote to make things easy. I have my lighthouses and headset hooked to these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK?th=1

I realized mine was staying warm when I first got it, also the bluetooth didn't turn off my lighthouses sometimes in one of the early software versions. So I got a remote hooked to all three and can turn them off and on super easy now.

^ This - just setup an aeotec zwave dry contact sensor ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0155HSUUY ) connected to a magnetic reed switch ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009SUF08 ). Had to drill a small hole for wiring in the bottom of my metal mailbox and mounted the sensor outside the box (for reception) - put the sensor directly underneath the box and it seems to be well hidden and protected from the elements with excellent long distance range.

The setup has been a game changer for me - i get an immediate smartthings alert the second the box is opened. I startled my neighbor the other day when he put mis-delivered mail in my box and i was outside 10 seconds later to greet him.

To close the loop here, I did end up buying https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dt2.Bb22CPRK7 and it was super easy to setup and seems to be working fine. Thanks for all the advice and debate

Not the original commenter, but I'm currently using a combination of smart switch/remote thing and smart bulbs. Admittedly not a typical use case, but I have a couple switches that control multiple fixtures.

For example I have a switch that powers both a fixture on my three season porch, and my outside patio light. One of these and two smart bulbs allows me to control them independently.

TP-Link has a good price on their wifi switches. These work with Alexa via the Kasa plugin but do not connect to any hubs that I'm aware of. I had a good experience with their Smart Plugs until I went 100% Z-Wave for hub compatibility. Either way, these are a decent price. Currently at $39.99 and Amazon even has a $5 coupon to reduce the price futher.

https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-HS200-Smart-Wi-Fi-Switch/dp/B01EZV35QU

> but you don't cover them with Z-wave buttons, you cover them with a regular combination light switch

I meant something like this to go over the actual switch. Then I leave the real light switches on at all times, and use the z-wave buttons or Home Assistant to control the relay.

Good point on room in the box, too. I'll definitely need to check that out before I buy it

Thanks! That switch looks great. And I see that the website advertises Nexia compatibility so that's good.

In the picture I posted, the stair lights have 2 switches that control them. Would I get one of these smart switches and one of the add-on paddles?

GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.

I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.

One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.

Sounds like you need a smart dimmer plug

If you don’t have a hub you can use a WiFi one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW3HL-1BW-Decora-Required-Assistant/dp/B01N106YN7

Otherwise I would recommend a zwave one, I use the one from GE and it works well.

The best I've been able to find is the Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Multi-Sensor (DSB05-ZWUS). Note: not the newer models, for which the motion sensor doesn't work outdoor. You'll also need a zwave switch to control the lights (I use a GE 12724).

With a zwave dimmer switch, a zwave motion sensor, and a normal outdoor light fixture, I've set mine up to turn on the lights at 30% brightness at sunset, and off at sunrise. When motion is detected and the lights are already on, I have the brightness increase to 100% for 10 minutes, then back to 30%.

The Aeon sensor is definitely not ideal. I looked far and wide for a better outdoor motion sensor but wasn't able to find one. Others have suggested using a traditional outdoor light that has a motion sensor built in and detect the load increase to trigger an event. I decided not to go that route.

Assuming you have a neutral in the gangbox that houses the two switches for each fan, I would recommend the following:

• GE z-wave plus fan speed control switch
  
• GE z-wave plus light dimmer
  
  Use the pull cords to keep the light switch in the on position, and the fan speed at maximum. After that, you can control the light and fan exclusive using the new switches, the Wink app, or GH/Alexa.

Awesome. Really appreciate you taking the time to help me.

I'm assuming this guy, labeled "add-on" will work?

Check out TP link smart switches

and if that's not really what you're looking for I also like These mini wifi smart plugs

Hope this helps!

(Apologies for the formatting I'm on mobile)

I'm technically savvy but more on the software side than the hardware side. I was geared up to do it myself until I started reading about 3-phase light switches (when you have more than one switch that controls a set of lights) and then it started to go over my head with load, line, neutral, etc...I figured: "Hey, I don't wanna burn my house down. Let's leave this to the pros."


I've done a ton of research but there is so much information out there that the more you look the less you know. I was looking at the GE 12724 but I'm open to recommendations as well.


I do know I'll be using the Samsung SmartThings hub for the brains of the whole thing. I'll likely tie in a Logitech Harmony hub in there too along with a Google Home for voice activation.


Thanks!

That depends on what sort of hub you have. I used and really like these, so if you have smartthings or another z-wave compatible hub I'd recommend these.

They also come with good enough instructions that someone like me who has never worked with electricity understood what I was doing.

On-off

Dimmer

The old Insteon ToggleLinc switches look sort of like the traditional up/down switches. But of course these require an Insteon-compatible hub. Looks like GE makes an equivalent "Z-Wave Plus In-Wall Smart Lighting Control Smart Toggle Switch"

I use toggles where I have wallpapered switchplates with the small opening and don't want to replace the switchplate.

With HA toggle switches, the toggle always sits in a middle position (neither up nor down) and returns to that position after you flick it up or down manually. This means it will look a little out of place in a gang box if some are traditional toggles and others are "smart" toggles. When I have it in a single-gang by itself, most of my guests don't even notice the difference.

I have z-wave GE wall switches that work fine. You can usually find something in the amazon reviews that will indicate what success (or lack of it) other people have had. Lurking this sub is another good way to see what works for others.

As sauky said, check the smartthings list on the st website

The GE switches and dimmers were fussy getting them "paired" with the hub. But I have probably five different brands of stuff and none of it was immune to pairing troubles. I would just make sure whatever you get has favorable reviews.

For your fan, take a look at this. It allows you to control the speed of the fan without having to click the chain. Leave the fan on high and let the switch work its magic. I love the one I have in my living room.

Thank you so much for your reply! I'm potentially installing totally new light switches and I thought I read somewhere that the Phillips Hue switches aren't hardwired or something like that. Any idea what the ideal "hard-wired" light switch would be? Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Requires-Assistant-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1512064629&sr=8-1&keywords=smart+light+switch

I don't actually know anything about electric wiring so I'm not 100% sure what hard wired means.

The best I've come up with for this scenario is to either:

• Like /u/Alwayssunnyinarizona mentioned, expand the gang box so you can add both a Z-Wave dimmer & a Z-Wave fan controller (like the GE 12730) side by side. Since you already have the separate fan and light wiring, this isn't too bad. You would need a drywall saw to expand the hole (or a small saw), [optional] tin snips to cut the old box out, a new 3-gang box and wallplate, and patience.
  
  
• If you have the spare cash, Insteon makes the Fanlinc, which you can hide in the canopy. You could then add an Insteon KeypadLinc. Of course, the gadgets themselves are expensive, and you'd need to add an Insteon modem to your HA setup if you don't already have one. That said, it's as elegant as you'll get without modifying that box.
  
  
• Finally, you could hide a micro dimmer and fan controller in the canopy and use an in-wall scene controller to make your HA hub command them. Not as elegant and more points of failure, but it'll get the job done.

Sure. Just plug some floor lamps into remote control outlets. You can sticky the remotes by the door. Not the most elegant solution in the world but they work fine. Pretty cheap on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.Lj3DbR46CBYM

If you have a 3 wire ran from the switch to the fan (white,black,red,ground) you can do some variation of what I did for my Fan/Light rooms.

This for the light control. Also This if you want it to match with the fan switch.

This for the fan control.

If you only have a 2 wire ran from the fan/light to the switch then you would have to do something more along the lines of what u/caddymac suggested.

Hope this helps and if you have anymore questions let us know.

You could look into a RaspberryPi and the Pi version of the HomeSeer controller software. If you have a little time the software plus a Pi only costs a little more than a SmartThings. Otherwise I use SmartThings and I have really liked it so far.

As far as switches if you do not mind mixing brands this is what I do. Anywhere I have a dimmer, a 3+ way switch, or have the need for scenes I use HomeSeer. If I just have a regular switch I don't need to do anything fancy with I use GoControl switches as they are a bit cheaper if you look at the other sellers.

For the garage I use GoGoGate because I wanted to ability to give others access. I have seen others on this sub use these GoControl Garage Openers with contact sensors to verify open/closed.

I would also look into doing fan control

Depending on the size of your house and how many switches you are replacing this could get you pretty close to your $1k budget. You may need to add cameras later on. Also in your future endeavors I would look into EcoBee/Nest for temperature control.

There are probably other solutions but you can use GE's Z-Wave Smart Fan Control switch via SmartThings. Should work as well with the other Z-Wave hubs.

> See, I didn't even know that was a thing. Glad I opened this thread already. So much to research.
>
> Thanks.

No prob man, and they really do work amazingly. Here's an amazon link for the z-wave plus outlets:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07361JZ2H/

Here's the link for the switches and add-on switches. They come in either paddle or toggle style, and in a couple colors. You can also get switches that support dimming if that's your thing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGOHM/

If it's a 3-way, the functionality of the add-on will match that of the other switch. So if it's a dimmer on the main side, the add-on has that as well.

I think you might have the most flexibility with getting a smart light switch that status can be read from and a smart outlet that can be remote controlled. Then write the code to make it do the thing. It might be hard to get it to be instantaneous?

The cheap way is to buy this and stick the wall switch next to the existing one, making turning the far light less of a hassle.

The last option is to call an electrician, which will give you more robust options.

The Clapper, Wireless Sound Activated On/Off Light Switch, Clap Detection, Perfect For Kitchen/Bedroom/TV/Appliances, 120 V Wall Plug, Smart Home Technology, As Seen On TV Household Gift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-eFXBbZYAAW3J

I went through the following tutorial recently and got my after market pedal working on RB4.

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Custom-Rock-Band-Pedal-just-like-the-Destroye/

I bought the following magnetic switch and it works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009SUF08/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Depending on how you run the wire, you can use normally closed or normally open. There were instructions for each setup on various sites, so I went with one that can do either to make sure I was set.

All you have to do is buy a mono plug cable (as opposed to stereo), strip it, hook it up to the magnetic switch, glue one side of the switch to the pedal, the other side to a point on the pedal where the sides are close to touching when the pedal is pressed, and you're good to go.

I just got this dimming plug today for my newborn’s nursery because the lamp is too bright. Works great by app or voice command. They have a in-wall switch too.


Leviton DW3HL-1BW Decora Smart... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N106YN7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is the wall switch. I’m getting this for the overhead fan light switch:


Lutron Diva C.L Dimmer Switch for Dimmable LED, Halogen and Incandescent Bulbs, with Wallplate, Single-Pole or 3-Way, DVWCL-153PH-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C2WTLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DIB4DbFVQ76DF

I use Kasa switches and love them. Just make sure you have a neutral wire available on your box.

Kasa Smart Light Switch by TP-Link - Needs Neutral Wire, WiFi Light Switch, Works with Alexa & Google (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_IaOpDbAW7H425

Yes, I have this working with my smart things and the non dimming one would work as well. As I understand it, the slightly more expensive ge ones are self reporting - meaning when you physically switch it, it updates the hub. GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer (In-Wall), 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-62LxbDYY3DQS

You need a switched module (not lamp) and it will handle the fluorescents just fine. GE smart switch with a remote should do the job.

You don't have to rewire anything. One of your light switches is the real switch, and the other is connected to that first switch (not to the main power) Install the GE module at the real switch location, and install the remote at the other, it uses the same wiring.

If you're not sure you can tell the difference, or are concerned about doing a true 3 way, then you can use 1 GE smart module, and velcro an Aeotech Zwave remote near the other location to control it remotely.

Switch

Remote

Aeotech Remote

I just replaced the switches in a four gang box with these which are being controlled by a Smartthings hub.

The GE Z-wave switches are the only toggle type switches I could find. They can be purchased as regular switches or dimmers and can do three or four way switching.

They fit in my box, cramped but, it worked.

Cloud based control from your phone or Alexa. Switch still works like a regular switch, it just stays in the middle all the time.

Nice thing is you can buy others and add them as you want.

They are fairly easy to install IF you are comfortable with electricity. They do come with easy to follow instructions.

Here is what you need: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LRCG38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wV2ozbBHNPJ6X

Anything Hue is still limited to requiring that the Hue bridge be up and running, and you're also limited to 7 dimmer switches per hub which is really easy to run through with three ways.

You're probably better off getting something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M1AHC3R/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511631187&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=zwave+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41orYO6Z%2BWL&ref=plSrch and a SmartThings hub. In the absence of the hub it just works like a perfectly normal light switch, but the hub also allows it to be turned on/off remotely, including via Alexa. SmartThings integrates with Hue so you still get a fully integrated experience.

Only catch is no colour changing, but it sounds like a lot of your lights are white only. They also have a dimmer model which when combined with Philips Warm Glow LED bulbs gives you some colour temperature control without getting into Hue bulbs.

I've recently installed 4 of these, and will be installing 2 more: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480206517&sr=8-6&keywords=tp+link+smart+plug.

They are quick, easy, and work well with Alexa. The TP-Link app is easy to use as well.

If I was not a broke ass college student I would honestly send you one.
Happy Birthday

Need a little bit more information. Do you have 2 wall switches to control the fan/light separately? Does your fan have a remote control? Do you have a hub, or are you looking for a hub-less solution?

If you have 2 switches, I agree with /u/PSYKO_Inc, with only one change. I'd use a fan control switch to also have speed control of the fan. That switch is z-wave though, so you'd need a hub or controller.

I think you're on the right track... only thing I would change out would be to use the GE Z wave fan controllers instead of the Bond.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGVVQ

You'll still be able to control fan speed remotely with SmartThings and whatever voice assistant you decide to go with.

EDIT: Also, unless you absolutely have to have Alexa... the Ecobee 3 lite is a much better value and a lot less bulky on the wall. And cheaper...

Attic fan automation requires a fair bit of knowledge about the state of the rest of your house. Generally, you'd only want the fan on if it's cooler outside than it is inside, if one or more windows are open, and if the AC system isn't running. Additionally, you want a fan control unit that you can access from your automation platform, [this is a common example] (http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Ceiling-Switch-12730/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=zg_bsnr_6478741011_5) and it should be a drop-in replacement for your existing unit.

SmartThings has a handful of community-created apps to handle attic fans that might be of some use.

Install one of these and a dimmer for lights. , Run separate wiring to the fan box for bulbs
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PYMGVVQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

The get an Emerson DC motor fan and a simple light kit.

Bullet proof and almost completely silent at speed. You'll love it.

Amazon? http://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1450366349&sr=1-1&keywords=The+clapper.....also maybe any hardware store like True Value or B & G's.

GE / Jasco dimmer switches, ~$40 on Amazon, a few bucks less without the dimmer function.

Plug and play zwave functionality, just make sure there is a neutral wire.

I'm controlling incandescents, halogen, LEDs and I think at least one CFL with them and had no issues with the switches.

I am using a SmartThings hub to control them, FWIW.

EDIT: There is a zigbee version as well, though I think they are harder to find.

EDIT 2: Just to be clear, you don't HAVE to use the SmartThings hub to control them, you can just tap on the switch and it works like any other paddle dimmer, it just provides the option of controlling via zwave.

While I'm certainly envious of your handiwork with an Arduino and a soldering iron, I have two of these z-wave switches, and it's a lot simpler. Smartthings treats it like a dimmer out of the box, but adding this device type makes it perfectly seamless.

I may have misdirected you on the relay part... what I meant was an actual relay Vs the Wink Relay.
https://smile.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM2-Z-Wave-Convert-Enabled/dp/B00JWVNH4Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468877628&sr=8-2&keywords=zwave+relay

I can control two existing dumb switches with one device. So in my case I have the outside porch lights and porch outlets in the ceiling (for holiday lighting) controlled by the one relay. Saves space and money.

As for the Wink Relay, I could see how it would help, I just don't have the right setup for it. Most of my boxes where it would make sense are 3 gang or more.

I have a couple switches depending on the config.

for the foyer chandelier, the switches are still toggle and it is a three way switch. So I used the GE Zwave with add-on switch to help it blend in a bit.

Dimmer switch - https://smile.amazon.com/GE-12729-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B00PYMGS3C/ref=pd_sim_60_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=51mGs2T1eYL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL320_SR164%2C320_&psc=1&refRID=GB18YZVF9J9DR1F95J6W

Add-on switch - https://smile.amazon.com/GE-12728-Wireless-Bluetooth-Connected/dp/B00PYMGYY0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468877971

For the single pole switches I used the Leviton Zwave switches

Dimmer - https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-DZMX1-1BZ-Controls-Capable-Universal/dp/B01GONGX3O/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1468878067

Regular Switch - https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-DZS15-1LZ-Decora-Controls-Capable/dp/B00LEWQYHG/ref=pd_sim_sbs_60_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31bJcKzR1ML&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=3RGMQDRFX87WN0GFGVB5

There are cheaper alternatives out there, I just used these cause I had gift cards and were located locally so I could return them if there was an issue.

Edit: spelling and words

Not a "smart" solution, but I've used one of these remote swithes for a few years to solve a similar issue. It's worked great for me.

GE 12730 Z-Wave Smart Fan Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_k.W2wbCC5SW29The GE Fan Control switch works. You'll have to have a switch for both the fan and light.

The newer version that supports z-wave plus. Just the on/off model, not the dimmer. Model #14291.

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QiyeAb380Q4QY

I personally be like the failsafe a physical switch provides. I've had those controls go haywire, or get damaged, or lost.

Plus I like having the option to control this or a future fan with something like this

Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, Single-Pole, PD-FSQN-WH, White, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1GXM38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_aWYzDbFFE4NYG

Caseta has non-dimming switches that work with HomeKit. The more reasonably priced one requires neutral but the hard to find one doesn't. (For some reason it's on Amazon for $58 instead of $70+ as I write this)

These can be used to turn a fan on and off, but not control the fan speed.

I wish there was a Caseta version of this combined controller (for a reasonable price) that can work with one wire to the canopy.

[on/off switch ](GE Lighting Control On/Off Switch, Z-Wave, In-Wall, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12722 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N.QGybF1J18NP)

[dimmer](GE Smart Dimmer, Z-Wave, In-Wall, 12724, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JaRGyb67MY877)

Here you go. You can switch the items on those pages to find the toggles as well as fan controls etc

I had undercabinet florescent with power coming directly into them, and I replaced them with a combination of led strip lighting, diffusers and individual power supplies. Then I changed the switch to a GE z-wave. Here's a list of the products I used:

Power Supply: ($14 x 3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R17YQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED Lights: ($8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diffusers: ($26)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJSUZSK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Zwave Switch (now they are $38, but I got some on clearance for $21)

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Required-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519156674&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ge+zwave&psc=1

All in all I replaced lighting under the three main cabinets and the total cost was under $100. I'm not sure it was the best way to do it, but it works! For my application dimming wasn't what I was looking for, but I think you could swap out some parts for the dimmable versions.

The GE or HomeSeer dimmers will work just fine. I personally use the GE ones. Make sure you get the Z-Wave Plus ones though... they can be enabled through a device handler in ST to enable double tap (so can the HomeSeer switches).

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Required-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1517504684&sr=8-4&keywords=ge+z-wave+plus+switch

or

https://www.amazon.com/New-Model-Wireless-Lighting-Wall/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517504684&sr=8-5&keywords=ge+z-wave+plus+switch

Again make sure it's the Z-Wave PLUS model. Even within those links, picking a specific switch might get you the non-plus.

As far as wattage, you should be fine. Standard switches will do up to 600w, that's 10x60w bulbs on a single circuit (or 6x100w) assuming incandescent bulbs, power usage goes WAY down with LED bulbs.

Your biggest problem is going to be getting all of your switches to fit into the wall... they're quite big. I'd recommend jumping neutrals and line if you can from switch to switch, instead of trying to add to the bundles (i.e. neutral into switch 1, then out of switch 1 to switch 2, etc...). If you're not comfortable with wiring you should have an electrician install them.

Is that hard wired? The reason I asked about the switch is because I'm hoping Hook will help since the switch I referenced uses RF. The GE Fan Switch only controls the fan, not the light kit. Hook should be able to mimic the RF controls for the fan switch that I have and has some Echo integration. This is all speculation at this point, but I'll post once my device arrives by the end of April.

EDIT: Nope, Hook doesn't work with this type of RF connected Fan switch.

GE makes "add-on" switches for their Z-Wave, Zigbee, and Bluetooth switches. The normal smart switch is installed on one end (usually where the power comes in from your panel) and an add-on switch gets connected on the other side. These switches do require neutral (usually white) wires - as long as you have those, no additional wiring should be needed.

I do not know if there are any wifi switches that work this way. However, I've been using GE's Z-Wave switches with the Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5 and Home Assistant and it's been working great! If you're not already locked into a certain technology and don't mind using Z-Wave that would be my recommendation.

BTW it's not difficult to wire them yourself once you know what you're doing. I hired an electrician to wire the first few for me - I watched them, asked questions, and learned how to do the others myself.

SOLUTION: http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463308319&sr=8-3&keywords=remote+power+switch

One press of a button - done. BTW: I don´t have a good feeling that my HMD is always warm - even when turned off. So i will use this for the powerplug of the VIVE also.

There is a simple way you can do this outside of Echo. Just get him to put a remote-controlled switch on the power adaptor. This kind of thing.

The cheap approach is to buy a simple RF-controlled switch and put the actual switch itself somewhere you can access (like on the outside of his door). That will allow you to power-off the Echo without entering his room.

The fancy approach is to use a smart switch that you can link to your phone, your own Echo, or whatever. The main advantage of this is that he could also control it. For example, he could use geofencing to automatically power-off his Echo when he is nowhere near the house.


Obviously the most appropriate way to deal with this problem is for your roommate to stop using alarms on the Echo if he can't remember to cancel them when he's not around. But if you want a tech-based 'solution' then these seem like good options.

We actually have a bunch of Lutron Caseta switches which work great. Those ones you posted look nicer without leds on them but we really like the rotary/knob dimmers. They seem to match the house. We’re getting gouged for it though.

I believe your problem is that you have Smart bulbs connected to a smart switch. If the smart switch is off then the smart bulbs wouldn't work. I would think your bulbs would still connect to wink as long as the power is on. Since they're both dimmable you probably should use the Lutron Casetta On/Off Switch rather than the dimmer.

You may also be able to pair the light with a connected bulb switch that can be wall mounted next to the regular switch using this Lutron Pico Wallplate Bracket and a 2 gang wallplate.

Some have noted that these (https://amzn.com/B00DQ2KGNK) have worked like a champ for situations like yours.

You could accomplish this with home automation. Replace the fan switch with this zwave switch and then add a Wink or Smartthings hub. Your phone would be the remote. You can also get an Amazon Echo for cheap and then control the fan with your voice.

Assuming your existing dumb switch doesn't control fan speed, you'll just need two standard z-wave/zigbee enabled smart switches. I use the GE12722 Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch.

If you want to be able to control the fan speed from the wall, you could use the GE 12730 Z-Wave Smart Fan Control, you will just no longer use the pull chain fan control (if your fan has one).

Alternatively, you could do something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Household-Appliances-Unlimited-Connections/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_421_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DV89V83YHJHXVDBEVMD5

Either use one per machine or just get 1 and plug a power strip into it.

Number of machines has a few factors, basically will all boil down to the amp draw per machine. I would guess 2.5-3amps is probably a safe number to assume, and that's probably a pretty pessimistic number for the most part. If you have a 15A breaker, you could have 5 machines give or take on one circuit.

Realistically, most are probably in the 2A area. But give yourself some room and don't instantly max out a circuit.

I have a few z-wave switches and the way they work is that you supply them power all the time and when you turn the light on (or off) it actually sends a signal to your controller (in this case HomeAssistant) and then HomeAssistant actually turns off the light. Same with the iPad, when he clicks it on/off, it actually tells HomeAssistant to turn it on/off.

My current setup uses z-wave but you can use other technologies to achieve similar results. The big question is if your switches have a neutral wire. If they are just two wires that toggle the hot lead of the switch, this won't work.

Just know it's not like a traditional wall switch as it doesn't have an on/off state. Instead, it looks like a paddle switch in a neutral position (neither on or off) and you tap in the on or off direction to enable said state but it stays in the neutral position. (because it doesn't know if the controller is switched externally)

So yes, what you want should be possible.

You can get a smart switch to go with your smart plug. Maybe something like this....


https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW6HD-1BZ-Incandescent-Required-Assistant/dp/B01NASBN1V

Just did this recently with my outdoor lights. I installed this:
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537972541&sr=8-3&keywords=kasa+smart+switch


It is awesome, i can turn on/ff the lights with the switch or use the app. The app works wonderfully, no delays.

If you are doing z-wave replace your far switch with a wireless 3-way switch. This one works great. Then disconnect or cap off your power to that box. Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch and Pico Remote Kit, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | P-PKG1WB-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM6L48C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mnc4DbXWKEZ40

We recently installed these GE switches and have so far liked them a lot. They don't look dramatically different from traditional switches, and you can then use whatever bulb you need in the actual outlet.

Just as a note, we did have issues with the newer SmartThings app automating the lights coming on at night and going off in the morning, but it seemed to be an issue with the app- we used the classic app and it's worked perfectly ever since.

You could get these two devices and be able to control the fan and light independently with variable speed control and dimming capability.

1. Fan Switch:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
   
   
2. Light Control:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRQC7O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Both of them can be controlled via Alexa or through the UI on whatever hub you choose.
   
   Hope this helps!

There are a ridiculous number of options, but based on my bedroom:

A 52" Haiku H series with SensMe (HA integration) in a dark finish wood, with satin nickel base, on a level 9' ceiling, with a light fixture, and wall switch is $1315.00.

Or you can go to Amazon and buy a more sensible fan for $100-$300 dollars, and set up most of the same rules using a multi sensor and a z-wave fan control.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGVVQ?keywords=Ceiling%20fan%20z-wave&qid=1458787380&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2

Try TP-Link. About $ 28 as well but very good and compatible with just about everything. Of course the dimmer is a bit more expensive.

​

Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZV35QU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079775ZZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

The user guide and other PDFs are in the description.

​

I've had 3 regular switches and 1 dimmer installed for about 2 months now.

If I'm reading you right, you have a light that's controlled by two different switches - the whole circuit being known as a "3-way switch."

In that case, one switch is a smart switch like this one, or this one for zwave plus.

The other one (whichever you choose) would need to be an add-on switch like this one.

Coupon Codes - Rakuten.com has a coupon code (BF20) that takes 20% off your entire order. Can only be used once!

• Z-Wave
  
  GE Z-Wave Plus 15-amp 3-way White/Almond Rocker Light Switch -
  $26.59
  
  GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Control Light Switch, Toggle Style, On/Off, in-Wall, White - $25.71
  
  Dome Home Automation Water Shut-Off Valve - for Pipes up to 1 1/2", White - $72.17
  
  GE Z-Wave Plus 15-amp 3-way White/Almond Rocker Light Switch - $30.09
  
  GE Z-Wave/ZigBee/Bluetooth 0-amp 3-way White/Almond Rocker Light Switch - $13.99
  
  GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Lighting & Appliance Control Outdoor Module, On/Off - $27.19
  
  
  
• Streaming Devices
  
  [ROKU ULTRA STREAMING MEDIA PLAYER] (https://www.rakuten.com/shop/electronic-express/product/4661R/) - $49.99
  
  Chromecast Audio - $15
  
  
• Voice Assistants
  
  Google Home - $79
  
  Nest Hello Video Doorbell w/ 1-yr. Nest Aware + Google Home Mini - $180
  
  Google Home Hub - $100 + $30 Kohls Cash

Why not just get a zwave dongle for your ha server and then a zwave ge switch?

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E

​

Have had this setup running for about 2 years now. I use the dimmers as well. I run HA in a docker on an unraid server without issues having it pickup the zwave stick.

OP, if you can't find a solution I got myself a pair of these and they work great. Just click them on before I'm about to start VR and you're good to go.

Lutron Caseta PD-6WCL-WH Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch or PD-6ANS-WH Smart Lighting Switch are "single-pole" switches, but they will require L-BDG-WH Caseta Wireless Smart Bridge to function properly.

I used this for an outlet most recemtly:
GoControl WO15Z-1 Z-Wave Single Wall Outlet, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFK1YRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WW8iybATX7XG4

This is the plug in lamp dimmer module
GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Control, Z-Wave, Plug-In, White, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMM7E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2X8iybCTVJ88R

This is the regular switch... Notice this is a "regular" style but you can find it in paddle as well.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Smart Toggle Switch, In-Wall, White, 12727 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d08iybB4CY6HZ