Reddit mentions: The best electrical outlet boxes

I think others have said it, but your best bet is to forget about the camera and start with what you have. Even cheap phones work well enough for youtube as long as you can pump enough light into them. You are better off concentrating on the rest of your kit first.

Audio is the most important part of your video. Nothing will make someone skip your videos faster than having terrible audio quality, especially if you are wanting to do ASMR and mukbangs. If you are going to blow your budget somewhere I recommend going big on your audio. For starter mics I recommend the Audio-Technica AT875R. It is a killer mic and the best bang for the buck mic I have found so far. You will need a recorder, but to save money starting out you can record directly to your computer using a cheap phantom to usb adapter and Audacity.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT875R-Gradient-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B000BQ79W0/

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-1-Channel-Microphone-Condenser-Recording/dp/B076WF7DSP/

The other thing you will need starting out is light. Your footage is going to look terrible if you just record with available light inside. There are alot of cheap led lights out there but for the most bang for the buck I recommend going the DIY route. A pack of high cri led bulbs is cheap and will give you more light than any similarly priced panel will. You will need a trip to a home improvement store for a fixture and extension cord. I think FilmRiot has a tutorial on this setup, and you can even build a dimmer into the cord for about $10 more. Then you can diffuse the light through a frosted shower curtain for great soft light.

https://www.amazon.com/TORCHSTAR-Dimmable-Equivalent-1600lm-Daylight/dp/B07JMP9K7W/

https://www.amazon.com/Nuvo-SF77-193-Polished-24-Inch/dp/B01F4DSYDM/

https://www.amazon.com/Woods-General-Purpose-Extension-Black/dp/B000KKJUHE/

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Rotate-Almond-18020/dp/B002DNG3EE/

https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-5320-2-Weatherproof-inches-Bronze/dp/B000BW3EK0/

The last thing you will need is a tripod for your phone. You aren't shooting anything that really needs or would benefit too much from alot of movement, so a gimbal or steadicam is just overkill and unnecessary. There are a million tripods out there, but for the sake of consistency I will link to one I found.

https://www.amazon.com/Acuvar-Aluminum-Universal-Smartphone-Smartphones/dp/B00SHJPMEU/

So there's the kit I would put together if I was starting out again. It will give you a great foundation to grow from and when the budget appears for a better camera it will still help you out (I still use my DIY lights in my home studio even now that I have a trunk full of much better lights). I'm not sure what you have lying around to make this cheaper, but by my rough maths you are looking at about $350 USD for everything on my list, and you could probably hunt around and get it even cheaper.

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As to editors, I recommend ponying up the bucks for Adobe. It's a little expensive, but it's better to spend a little now rather than spend the time learning a cheap or free NLE and then having to relearn Adobe down the road if you decide to up your game. If you absolutely don't have the budget both Hitfilm's and Davinci have a free version that is pretty solid.

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edit: forgot to mention software.

Sure! So, I'm currently overwhelmed with RGB LED strip wheels as it is right now, so they're from everywhere.

But, I've started to rely on 2 companies. One is Alitove, they have an Amazon store and an eBay store. Their a division of some large Chinese company, but all they do is make and sell LEDs - in all the usual formats. I've noticed that their strips seem to match the closest, no matter when you buy them - for me its a good sign. And their colors are really rich, especially their WS281x lights, just wish someone made a Z-Wave controller for the WS281x.

The other one is a SUPERNIGHT on Amazon. Don't know much about them, they appear to be a self-branded version of someones strips. Really good color reproduction. Though they are the ones that accidentally made me aware that you can buy an RGB light strip that is individual red, blue and green LEDs instead of the multichip 5050 packages we're used to lol.

As for power supplies, definitely recommend these guys - from 60 watt/5A, all the way up to 120 watt/12.5 amp.

So far, I've got a 60watt/5amp that's been running continuously for over a year at close to its max, with some bright cool white LEDs (Kitchen lighting), I've also got one of the 120w/12A supplies that's been running 24/7 for about 6 months now outside, running some WS2811 light strips. They are hard potted and stay really cool - I've had so many power supplies die trying to run a 10 meter length of white LEDs for any significant length of time.

In fact, I trust them enough that I'd almost mount them inside the wall next to the box, but I don't know if I could do it and still sleep at night.

So what I've been doing is using 4-gang old-work fiberglass boxes - 2 hour fire rated, they're pricey but you can but 2-3 or more 60watt supplies in a single one. I really wish they made these single-gang boxes with a 'pocket' in a larger size.

Honestly, it's overkill for sure - especially compared with what most elecchickens install things like this, from what I've seen. But I'd rather spend an extra $20 now rather than a fire later. Plus, if we ever sell out house, I don't have things like that hidden from people.

The easiest way to accomplish this is probably going to be adding an extension ring behind the light and running either conduit or MC or Romex to your new location.

Conduit would probably look better if you have any experience bending pipe, and be a bit more weatherproof, but MC is WAY easier (like way easier). Romex is typically not intended for outdoor installations.

Be aware that you if you choose to go the MC route you will also need to buy metal boxes and MC connectors for the ins and outs of all your new devices, plus 3/8" 1 hole straps and screws to secure the wire.

Another thing to consider before you begin running wire. If the existing light that you intend to get your power from is switched (say from inside the house) then you will either need to get constant hot power from the switch up to the light, or you will end up controlling all your new patio fixtures from that same switch (rope light receptacle included). If this ends up being the case, you could always back up, get a Bell Box, mount it on top of your outdoor receptacle and pull power from there; more than likely the receptacle will not be switched, if it is a GFI however (has the Test and Reset buttons) then make sure you use the line side of the wire stabs on the back of the plug for best results.

Definitely check this information with your installer to make sure you don't catch them way off guard with material they typically don't use, but it seems like this is the way he was leading you as well.

Final thoughts: if any of your fixture boxes end up being in locations where they could get wet, I'd go ahead and spring for bell boxes with grommits for the best seal; silicone caulk also goes a long way for sealing up potential leak points. I know some of this may be confusing, so if you have any questions on specifics, just drop them below. Also, if you have any pictures of the existing stuff and where the future stuff will be going it would help with nailing down some details.

Really great project. Great photos. Great commentary. Really good work. Looks great. What an incredible difference from the before photos.

For anyone else reading, I used pop-up floor outlets on my last island, worked great.

https://www.amazon.com/Enerlites-661501-S-Stainless-125VTamper-Weather-Receptacle/dp/B07R3FLKCP/ref=sr_1_29?keywords=floor%2Boutlet&qid=1563560994&s=gateway&sr=8-29&th=1

I'd suggest keeping the face plates and keystones the same brand. I used 2 different brands and they didn't fit just right, granted the keystone idea is pretty standardized, it still wasn't perfect... The other part you'll want to grab is something to help hold the outlet on the wall: https://smile.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI

When it comes to pulling the cable, if you want to do the cables the way a pro would, look at buying a spool or CAT6 in the walls: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8103 and terminate it with a real CAT6 punch down jack: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5384. Then use the cables you linked to go from the wall to router/computer/device. Watch some YouTube videos and take your time and you shouldn't have a hard time terminating the cables. With network cables there is solid and stranded, solid is for cable that isn't going to move (like in the walls). While stranded is for the areas that need to be more flexible, like near a computer where it might be moved occasionally.

Like everyone else, 2 wires is a good call.

For the "cabinet" try to go more open, like a small shelf you can sit stuff on, especially when you are concerned about heat and/or air flow, why not just open it up?

If you already need to call an electrician to run an outlet, just ask them to make another hole for your A/V cables. If you are lucky they might do it for free. Will the cables just need to go from behind the unit down to the shelf that will hold the Apple TV?

I would ask the electrician to cut some extra holes for you, and you could tidy them up with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474998124&sr=8-3&keywords=1-Gang+Recessed+Low+Voltage+Cable+Plate

You would mount them to something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice%C2%AE-Single-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B00HYHEC38/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474998033&sr=8-2&keywords=1+gang+mounting+bracket

I just got done mounting and installing a bunch of TVs and A/V cables for some of our branch offices, and that is pretty much what we did. The passthrough will easily allow the large tips of the cables through.

Of course you could also use a drywall saw and a cable fisher and do it yourself. If in doubt, call an electrician. Good luck!

I didn't see anyone else mention them, but since this is low voltage, you don't even need a box at all. You can use nothing more than a mud ring, many of which will secure just through the drywall itself. Personally I prefer the metal versions, but they're not as widely available in single units. Why hassle with a box at all when you don't need one?

You also may want to look at the "fish sticks" which are flexible rods. I like the ones with 18" sections, myself. Start at the bottom and you have more control than a tape in most cases. Home Depot has versions of these as well, OP.

Note that the rods aren't a complete replacement for a tape. They're simply a different tool that sometimes does the job better in certain situations.

I've added a new fan/light combo (no fixture there previously) as well as added a new switch to an existing fan/light that ran off of one switch. Both places I used a GE 12724 Smart Dimmer for the lights and a GE 1273 3-Speed Fan Control for the fan. It works great in my opinion, you can manually turn the fan and/or lights on/off or I can use my phone (connected to my Rpi3 DIY hub running homeassistant).

Here's what you'll have to do, it's a little bit of work but if you're handy it's not a very difficult job. If you have access to the fixture from the attic this will be 100% easier.

Assuming that there is a single 14/2 Romex wire from your current switch to the light you'll either have to:

• pull another 14/2 Romex wire from the switch receptacle to the light fixture
  
  
• replace the current wiring with a single 14/3 Romex wire
  
  
• replace the current ceiling enclosure with an old-work fan-rated box assuming the box isn't ceiling fan-rated
  
  
• assuming that the switch is in a single-gang enclosure replace the switch enclosure an old-work 2-gang enclosure
  
  
• wire the fan and switches with the new 14/3 Romex or the dual 14/2 Romex wiring
  

I would likely use either 2x4 or 2x6 instead of 2x10.

• Drill pilot holes in those braces that you will drive the lag bolts through into the studs
  
  
• Finish the 2x4 or 2x6 you use before mounting it to the wall. When faced with this, I actually used a piece of 1" good quality plywood that I sanded down, routed the edges nicely, primed, and painted before sticking on the wall. Whatever you wind up using, make it look good even if you think you're never going to see it.
  
  
  
• Buy these and install them before hanging the tv on the wall. Read the instructions thoroughly.
  
  
  
• Buy these and stick them into the other things. Read the instructions thoroughly.
  
  
  
• You can get brackets that attach to the back of the tv mount that hide things like cable boxes, set top boxes, etc. We have Google Wifi hubs mounted behind our two wall mounted tv's to free up space on the surfaces the stands one stood on. They make brackets for everything, including generic brackets and even specific ones for like Nvidia Shield Console.
  
  
  
• Check cable length. If snaking cables through the wall, you may need to get longer HDMI cables.
  
  
  
  Some Links
  
  
• http://studs.m88play.com/wall-studs-too-far-apart-for-tv-mount/
  
  
• http://www.displays2go.com/Article/Common-Mistakes-When-Mounting-TV-10
  
  

Nice! I just installed two sconces on my back deck. The blocks in the link below was definitely a better experience that they way I did the ones off my garage last year and the way I had to trim out.

 

Was pleased with the quality,

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQODND4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069KVZZ4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also my doorbell no longer worked and installed this wireless one in about 15 minutes (2 locations) and has worked great so far. Can even bring the noise maker with you if you have a large house.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4FVZU6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can, but it's always better to mount to a stud if location allows. In that case, a smart box is the way to go. They're way better than the typical old work box.

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https://www.amazon.com/Madison-Electric-Products-MSB1G4PK-Adjustable/dp/B00H8NUVQK/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1FYLHOIEE1AUD&keywords=smart%2Bbox%2B2%2Bgang%2Belectrical%2Bbox&qid=1563409695&s=gateway&sprefix=smart%2Bbox%2B2%2Bgan%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-7&th=1

Second this, imagine spilling liquids on your counter or run off from a cutting board. You might be able to get away with something like this: http://www.build.com/hafele-822-99-320/s1136222?uid=2726289&gclid=CjwKEAjwgbG5BRDp3oW3qdPiuCwSJAAQmoSD4A5SVAcU5qT9EdFFsdonCmZ4l8HaqGLXGMjUcehFnxoCR9Dw_wcB&source=gg-gba-pla_2726289____50002411159&s_kwcid=AL!4215!3!50002411159!!!g!80403657919!

or a less expensive version of this:

http://www.amazon.com/Lew-Electric-PUFP-CT-SS-Countertop-Receptacle/dp/B00JV3D7C0/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1462559192&sr=8-8&keywords=counter+outlet

I've been building my own kitchen cabinets and had to cut some drawers short because of an outlet being behind them, it sucks, but code is code =\

Also make sure you use the metal boxes with armored conduit when you run the wire, this is also code I believe.

One last thing I learned through my own project. If the island is attached to the floor/non mobile its required to have at least one outlet in it somewhere. If you have something like a range or a sink that has a narrow gap behind it, its required to have an outlet on each side (you're fine with one outlet in yours, its just an fyi :) ).

If it's directly the other side of the wall, you don't even need to do any wiring as long as you don't mind loosing the existing phone jack. Put in an old work low voltage box like /u/alias_enki said, but you don't need a full box for low voltage.

Loose the existing wall plate/jack from the wall, but leave the wiring in tact, and just push it through the wall out of the new opening. Mount it and put a blank cover on the old place and you're good to go.

Couple questions though; is it a DSL modem with a built in access point that you are trying to move? If not, then I assume you mean ethernet, not phone line.

If that's the case, I highly recommend getting a router and running ethernet to any desktop computer, game system, media player, or smart TV you have. You can buy a box (500 ft.) of Cat5e for around $50 plus a crimper and ends and do all the cabling yourself. It's really easy to do and there's plenty of guides on crimping ends onto ethernet.

Element

Cable

Electrical box

I can't find a link for the steel outlet plate cover, but it was one with just a circle in it that fit the element perfectly. Just got it a lowes hardware store. They also sell gaskets to go around the plate to keep it waterproof.

I have both my servers. An r810 and a r320 vertically mounted on their own vertical wall mount racks. Just make sure you hit the studs and you'll have no problems. If it's in the budget and you have space in your patch panel, think about installing at least five Ethernet drops just below or just beside the server. Makes for nice cable management. Shouldn't cost too much. I get most of my gear off Amazon in that regard.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mount-Patch-Panel-Bracket/dp/B001YHYVEY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wall+mount+vertical+server+rack&qid=1570787721&sprefix=wall+mounted+vertical+ser&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Listed-10-Pack-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HEN6/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=keystone+jack&qid=1570787805&sprefix=keyst&sr=8-13

https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=low+voltage+box&qid=1570787902&sprefix=low+voltage&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Keystone-Plate-6-Port-White/dp/B072BC45GZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=keystone+wall+plate&qid=1570787950&sprefix=keystone&sr=8-12

https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-Ethernet-ethernet-Computer-Shielded/dp/B07QC4XM2P/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=cat7+ethernet+cable+500ft+shielded&qid=1570788039&sprefix=cat7+ethernet+cable+500ft&sr=8-5#

I found and bought my cat7 cable from another location. Came on a spool. And was riser cable, meaning it had a braided shield around the foil shield like you see in coax cable. Good luck

You can do it that way, but it isn't recommended. Putting on your own male networking connectors has become bad form, sort of, over the last few years. They just aren't very reliable when using solid conductor cable and they are extremely difficult to install on stranded cable without the $50k machine they use in the factory... Someday your home terminated cable will fail for no apparent reason and it will ruin your life.

If I were doing it, I would run the cable and put a box in the wall. The cable is fine. I would pickup some old work low voltage boxes, and install a wall plate and use some keystone jacks and whatever jumpers you like.

If you are open to buying somewhere other than monoprice, I really like the Cable Matters keystone jacks nowadays. I like this punch tool but this knockoff works ok as well and if you are just doing a few than you could probably get away with the plastic thing that comes with each keystone jack... they eventually will work it might just take longer and you might have to dick with it a bit.

It looks like the stuff you have picked out will work, but it just might not be super reliable or aesthetically pleasing. Plus, what do you do if you move something? Now you just have a hole in the wall with some wires flopping around... If you put jacks on the wall they just blend in with all the other jacks on the wall if you remove the jumpers...

I have been really pleased with everything from Cable Matters lately. We terminated 1200 cables for a huge IP HD video system a few weeks ago using their stuff and only had 2 or 3 that had to be repunched and we had one cable run that didn't check and that was probably our fault pulling too hard and getting a kink in it. It's pretty reasonably priced all things considered.

Also, the cable you have picked out is great. It's pure copper and not copper clad aluminum (CCA). Never use CCA it's absolute garbage and won't ever work for anything. CCA will ruin your life.

EDIT: I just wanted to correct myself, we have been buying Honeywell Genesis cat6 cable lately... not monoprice. We have been getting a better deal through ADI global on the Honeywell stuff and it is very nice cable. The reel in a box is so much better than the usual mess... no more kinks so you don't need to pay someone $25 an hour to babysit some boxes and pay out cable and yell "stop!" over the radio all day when they have to sort a kink...

Hi, I'm finally working on fixing this. Can you tell me what you meant by a "shim"? Can you point me to the right product?

Right now I'm trying to fix it with tube shaped spacers, but they don't seem to provide enough resistance--especially with the tamper-proof safety feature of the GFCI outlet, which increases the amount of force required to plug something in. Thanks!

Lots of good comments. I'd recommend a couple low voltage boxes to secure the boxes you bought to the wall. Make sure you get old work boxes.

I've been trying to figure out for a long time, so any help would be appreciated. If it's something I can install relatively easily, then cool. If not, I'll call an electrician. I've done some indoor wiring, so I know a little bit about electrical work. Just don't know what the component is called to install on top of this. It's definitely not this:

http://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-5839-5-Duplex-Receptacle-Weatherproof/dp/B00002N7H7/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1371695499&sr=8-8&keywords=outdoor+outlet

This was for my motorhome so it went all over (It was actually overkill. Delicious endless hot water overkill). Do whatever it is you do for wherever you live. They make enclosures for them that recess into an exterior wall which can help as well and make them much more aesthetically pleasing.

From someone who recently wired their house with Cat6A and ran a 25ft fiber drop...

I would use some LC keystones in a standard keystone plate for the walls. Run some ENT conduit for the actual lines wherever it needs to go and terminate it behind an old work low-voltage box. Drop your fiber through using fish tape, connect it up, and you're done. If this is just from one side of the wall to the other, you can skip the conduit.

Be sure to follow local, state and federal code. You'll need special plenum rated cable if this goes through any air returns or other "air handling space" and isn't inside metal conduit.

Personally, I'd actually advise against putting servers in a garage, unless yours is uncharacteristically clean.

Edit: added some links and additional clarity.

Just be sure you aren't destroying the entire network of phone lines in the entire home. Many homes did not have home run installs of phone lines (where all boxes have a dedicated line running to a central distribution block). Instead, they were daisy chained or linked (where a single line comes from phone service and then linked box to box or split and then various runs split from there). This means if you cut the line you kill it for the entire house. While most people under 40 may no longer have land line service, others may still want in the future or you may decide to use those lines for alternate uses.

I would suggest putting in an old work box or even just a [simple low voltage bracket] (https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/), just buy locally as they will be about a buck at home improvement stores. Then wire it on the inside or just leave it, but put a blank plate over it. You could also pull it up or down the wall to place in a different vertical location pretty easily.

GC here: Nope, your fan will not be supported enough and will always rock back and forth. If it is a particularly heavy fan, it could easily fall down.

You can easily remedy the situation by using an old work fan brace

I'm confused, because if there was a ceiling fan there before, the box should already be in the ceiling? Did someone remove the fan and the box?

This is what you'd normally use for a fan: http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW

If you just want a box to mount there, you can use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Carlon-BH234R-Outlet-8-Inch-Length/dp/B0007N738M/

(Note: there are much cheaper versions of the second one available from hardware stores)

Rather than trying to fit your switches into your electrical box, why not make the electrical box fit your smart switches by using an electrical box extender?

iMBAPrice BE2-2 (2-Gang) Electrical Power Outlet Box Extender - White, 2-Pack (Made in USA) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B079J6HZD7

Well, that'd be the cover plate, yes. But I meant something like this mounted in the ceiling. Then terminate the cable and mount the plate directly to the box as if it were the cover.

When you take down the AP, just cover the box with a blank and now the new home owner can reuse it if they want.

Very easy. You can either fish Romex up and over or cut/patch drywall and come up from below. Most modern outlets have secondary connections that will allow you to easily split the power off. Or if you want to just move it in general you can wire nut the leads together according to color code and throw a blank plate on the existing box.

You will need a “cut in” style junction box for the new outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/Carlon-B114R-UPC-Lamson-Products-Number-1G/dp/B017Y54F36


I would expect to pay an electrician $60-$100 depending on where you are and how much work it takes to get the line in.

It really depends on what you would use them for. If you have any idea what types of devices/applications you would use them for, just try to look it up and see what type of romex is needed for it.

As for the box, again it will depend on what the plan is. You can always put the box there, and then put a blank wall plate over it so that it is there and accessible, but if you do not know for sure you will ever use it, you could just wait until you decide you DO want to put something there to make the hole in the wall. It's all personal preference. It won't cost much to get a box, cut a hole, and get a wall plate to cover it up, so I personally would do that just in case, but again it's all up to you.
If you did decide to install the box, I would recommend getting a deeper one like this so that you won't have any trouble installing any device you may decide to put in there.

If you do install the box now and aren't going to be using the wiring inside right away, make sure to cover the live wires with wire nuts to prevent any electrical fires.

Typically you don't run low-voltage lines in the same box as high-voltage lines. It's easy enough to just use something like this ( http://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=09GZVBHWHJ37VB90SY9Y ) to mount your HDMI wall plate to.

Don't use drywall anchors or even a new work gang box. Look for low voltage mounting brackets, aka "mud ring"; here's an example:

iMBAPrice Single Gang (1-Gang) Low Voltage Mounting Bracket - Black (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYHEC38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EEdXzbEE0RGCT

Invert these on the wall (put the face against the wall) and trace the inner rectangle. Then take a drywall saw and cut out the trace. Insert the ring, tighten the screws, put on the face plate, done.

I've done IT work in a field and office setting for years, and this is the best, cleanest way, and it's perfectly acceptable (at least here in TN).

I'd go with conduit along the baseboard then. Or, if you remove enough drywall, you could just run your wiring through the walls, even string some heavier wire to your breaker box for a new 20A circuit or two.

Most outlets put in when the house was built are in breakout boxes nailed to a stud, really solid, like THIS. You talk about drywall behind the outlet? It sounds like something hinky might be going on in your place. The outlet should be in a box and it screws into threaded holes in the box, it's just the box that needs to be mounted solid.

You can do new boxes easy enough with a ROTARY CUTTER or rotary drywall blade on a dremel tool, and old construction single gang boxes (or double- triple- etc, depending on how many outlets you want). you cut your rectangle and the box has lips that keep it outside the wall, then you turn the screws to lift those tabs up and they pull in against the back to hold it.

Also: if your drywall is that soft and damaged along the bottom edge, it may have been exposed to water and never dried right.

All in all, I'd tear out some drywall, inspect everything, run the wiring you want, new drywall, and paint. None of it's too complex, though you may want an electrician to connect any new wires to your breaker box and double check your work, just in case.

You don't necessarily need a box, but it's definitely worth terminating to a proper keystone jack and wallplate. Wallplates come in 2, 4, and 6 port versions, so you can get all your runs coming out a single-gang plate. Having wires just sticking out of your wall is definitely ugly, and may or may not violate your local code.

Instead of actual boxes, you can use old-work low voltage brackets like this to mount your wallplates. I actually prefer these, since they give you lots of in-wall access if you ever need to fish another cable through. I've been using the new-work version as I've been renovating my house and pulling ethernet to each room while I have the sheetrock down.

I wouldn't mess around with adhesive tapes or velcro. If there is no where else to mount the cameras, I recommend anchoring the cameras to the wall through the siding, and sealing the base with silicone caulk. Use a siding mounting bracket like this.

> Agreed on the wiring part, its my plaster skills cleaning up after that suck :)

Use these which can be found at most hardware stores. Run the wires, and then use those to attach the faceplate. That means you are only cutting the hole big enough to mount that, and then tighten it down. Little to no repair work after if you are careful. Its how I wired my entire house, plaster walls and all. Cutting/drilling through the plaster/lathe walls was a bitch and a half, but it still turned out good.

If you are cutting right beside the stud Madison Electric makes old work boxes that screw into the studs, they are way better than old work boxes with the tabs for the drywall in my opinion as I've been re-wiring and even the ones behind my TVs are all the Madison ones.

18. CU 1gang https://www.amazon.com/Madison-Electric-Products-MSB1G-Adjustable/dp/B00H8NUVQK

22.5 CU 1 Gang https://www.amazon.com/Madison-Electric-Products-MSB22-Adjustable/dp/B00H8NUVM4

To expand on the recommendations to just add the propper wall plates so they blend in and look correct which is also what I would do for these.

THis is what the wall plates will look like there are other options, but this should give you an idea
https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Premium-Connector-Banana-Plate/dp/B00GWOMMA4/

low voltage brackets look like this, you can get away with the plates screwed right into the wall but these are the "propper way"

https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/

There is most likely a bunch all coming out where the receiver was. They have larger plates that will fit that depending on how many speakers they had setup.

Something like this

iMBAPrice LV1-2PK Single Gang (1-Gang) Low Voltage Mounting Bracket - Black (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYHEC38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_V3tACbY7ZW1JN

And don't forget these things: https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1478199723&sr=8-1&keywords=old+work+low+voltage+box

Or Carlon Superblue BH234R Outlet Box, Old Work, 2 Gang paired with a divider plate.

You can use brush plates to pass the cable directly through the wall, without the extra jacks. Use a low voltage box to mount them to the wall.

if they are low voltage would i need this?

You can go through the ceiling of a basement (finished, drop ceiling) or along the top of a basement (unfinished) or along the bottom of an attic. I also have a wire snake to pull them through the walls to go up and down. So you cut a hole for the plate, then either drop the cable snake down the wall from the attic to the hole or from the basement to the hole and tape the end of the cable on and pull it through. Then pull it to wherever your [punchdown panel]/[switch]/[router] is and either make an end and plug it in or punch it in to your punchdown panel. On the other end you punch down the jack and screw it in and you're set.

Supplies:
Cat5e or Cat6 cable
Keystone Jack
Wallplate
Low Voltage electric box
RJ45 Ends

If you are interested, I can write a more detailed guide and a tools/optional supplies list later.

Put it wherever you're going to put your devices. For low voltage hole you would cut a hole the size of a regular single gang outlet. You would need these Low Voltage Mounting Bracket
Then the faceplates screw to that.

EDIT- I have one of these to trace and make sure it's level.

Is this what you're referring to? If so, do you know if it is up to national electric code? If so, I could kiss you for saving me the trouble of patching the Sheetrock.

What is above/below you? Attic? Unfinished basement?

If it is an attic, you can drop a line down into the wall and do it professionally. Just need fish tape, a couple gang boxes, some keystone jacks, and wall plates. All can be had for <$50

Unfinished basement, same thing, drill down, fish down (easier because gravity) and look for where the cat5 comes out in the basement, if possible use any existing conduits for previously ran LV wiring. Then go to modem location, fish down with your fish wire, and find it in the basement. Tie down your cat5 and fish it through. Ezpz

Also, avoid powerline adapters. Those things are hot garbage, and should only be used when all other options have been exhausted. As a tech, I have seen so many repair tickets for those peices of garbage alone. Run cat5, buy a wifi dongle & router that supports dual band, but do not use powerline again.

toolless keystone jack 2-pk

keystone wallplate 5-pk

cat5

LV gang box

Fishing is a pain in the ass, and a skill just like everything else. No harm in letting a pro do it.

If you use something like this https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-LV1-2PK-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B00HYHEC38/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=low+voltage+wall+box&qid=1564496246&s=gateway&sr=8-3 (once again, just an example. Single gang low voltage if what you are looking for) then use a drywall saw to make a hole that this thing fits into, it gives it a nice professional finish and the plate goes on there nicely.

Wire conduit. If you have an attic you can access running cable through the wall and up into the attic then back down the other side to rear speakers is easy enough with fish tape/poles, a drill, and a drywall saw. Use a gang ring and wall plate to cover the entry and exit holes of the wires.

With no attic you have to run the wire through the wall itself all the way to the rear speakers which is a pain in the ass because you have to drill through every stud. I definitely do not recommend that route. If all else fails with the wife forgo the rear speakers entirely and just get a REALLY nice 3.1 setup. Don't underestimate how good those can be.

3 options

1. Connect rca lead to speaker wire ends.
   
2. Use an inwall subwoofer or a subwoofer with an external amp.
   
3. Remove the baseboard (if its installed yet). Use a multitool to cut a 1" channel behind the baseboard into the drywall. Then run a single rca in the channel and 20" or so (outlet height) up inside the wall on both sides. Pop out of the wall with old work low voltage boxes. Replace the baseboard to hide the wire. I run a level line/channel about 2" off the floor and be cautious not to nail into the wire when replacing the baseboard. Drywall is 1/2 thick, which is large enough for the cable.
   Multi-tool
   http://m.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multi-tool-62279.html
   
   RCA
   http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/2680?maincategoryid=102&categoryid=10236&subcategoryid=1023603&cpncd=
   
   Single Gang Low Voltage Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_JgYMwb3PFJAP8