Reddit mentions: The best electrical tools & hardware

> How should I finish the ethernet cables?

Like another person said, use keystones. Don't use toolless as they are pretty crappy but just get a cheap punchdown tool and keystones for each room.
I would personally use a patch panel where the cables are going to be run to, but it wouldn't be necessary if you're only going to be running them how you initially explained.

> Can there be any conflict between the wifi of my router and the wifi of the APs?

There can, but they should be able to figure it out on their own. That said, if you're using APs (or WAPs as I call them at work, for Wireless Access Point, sorry about the change in terminology), you should just use a wired router instead of one with Wifi. No reason to add another component and interface to your situation.

> Good to know. From what I read, the usual setup is to have Ubiquiti controller installer on a computer running 24/7. So this is only for logging stats, is that right?

Pretty much. I don't think many people are running an actual computer 24/7 just for the software but do it if they have a server running 24/7 already, or just put it on a raspberry pi instead if they really need it.

> So all the APs get the same configuration? They are all configured with the same settings? No need to configure them differently?


> And if I set the SSID and the security for the APs to be the same as the one from my router wifi, everything will appear as one and only one network and there will be no waiting time from the time when I'm connected to one AP and get connected to another one while moving? Also, how will that switch from one AP to the other be done? Will it be automatic or no? Will it be the APs that will determine when to change one device from one AP to the other or the device itself that will "take de decision"?


Unless you want to do something different in a specific part of the house (i.e. guest access not everywhere) then yes. You just leave channels to auto, give every ap the same ssid, and you're devices will automatically switch freely among them. The devices make that decision, but the APs will sorta "help" determine when they should.

> What is a "WAP"? Also, if on the ceiling, I guess it should be in an open area rather than in the corner of a room? I would prefer to install them in the corner of a room in order to make them more "invisible", but I don't want to impact the wifi coverage/speed...

Sorry again, WAP is just what we call Wireless Access Points at work, because we have wired ports labeled Access Points as well. You can definitely install them on walls as well, but the devices are designed to radiate signals stronger in a specific direction. That is usually every direction but directly behind them, which means if you put it on a centrally located wall, the side of the house in front of it will have a stronger signal than the side behind it. You can place them closer to the edge of the house and be pretty good, but you might need to add an extra one to get as good of coverage.

> Do you think the new chip will be integrated in device shortly (the house will still be probably open until june...)?

No need to worry about that. The idea is to run as many cables in the walls as you'll ever need, so you can change tings like a router or APs super easily by just unplugging the old one and plugging in the new one. I don't think they will be popular enough in devices by june to be worth getting yet. probably closer to 2 years.

> A PoE switch seems nice. What is there to look for when buying one?

Definitely. There's 2 types of PoE switches: passive and active. passive switches are cheap and will damage any device that gets plugged into it that doesn't work with the same voltage. Try to stay away from these. Active switches support either 802.1af or 802.1at. Basically you want to make sure your switch and AP support the same type of active PoE. You can plug in anything to these switches without worry. Yes, you'll want to install it right next to your router and run cables to all of your rooms that way.

> Do I need to have ventilation for a PoE switch? Also, there is some that get installed into a rack, but I think this is more for a "pro/business" installation. However, does a PoE switch can be wall mounted?

Don't think of them as "pro/business" models. You seem to be building a large modern house, and having everything centralized will make your life SOOO much easier. I have a much smaller house and have a 24 port switch in my garage. You can just sit it on top of something, or you can make a mini rack, like I did. Just bought a pair of these and secured them to a plate of aluminum. It has my router, a patch panel, and my house switch installed on it, and is sitting on a shelf, although when I get the time and drive I'll mount it to the wall with some shelf arms. As for ventilation, look for the temperature rating on them. The lowest max temp I've ever seen is 40°C/104°F so should be fine in a living space, but depending on where you live might not be in an attic or garage. That said, my garage gets about 115/120°F on the hottest days and I haven't had an issue with my swtich.

>In general, is it better to run distinct ethernet cables with a RJ45 jack on each end or to buy a full spool of ethernet cable and put a RJ45 manually to each end?

Just to reiterate, you want to attach keystones at the very least to the living space side, and either the same thing or a patch panel where they are being run to. Will give you a much more professional look than a hole with cables. People will see it and not notice it, as opposed to seeing it and thinking "they have a hole in their wall already!"

If you have only a very small number of motorized blinds (I'd say four or less), then Hunter Douglas provides good options to wire them up. You can either install battery packs that need to be serviced every few months, or you can plug in a small power supply. Each of the power supplies can drive up to two blinds. But the extension wires that come with it cannot be longer than about 15ft, and they are not rated for in-wall installation. So, you'll have to deal with them probably being visible.

If you have lots of blinds, the wires look ugly, and you really don't want to take up a gazillion outlets. We have dual stacked blinds (mesh & black-out) in a few places. There clearly aren't enough power outlets to handle that.

Hunter Douglas for better or for worse runs their blinds on 18V -- and their tech support claims that the blinds are pretty sensitive to voltage fluctuations. This has a couple of awkward consequences. 18V power supplies are really unusual. Laptop power supplies would be perfect, but they are all 19V, which according to Hunter Douglas is not acceptable. And other common voltages are 12V or 15V, which are both noticeably too little.

Furthermore, the blinds have relatively high peak currents. Hunter Douglas told me to roughly assume that each blind can require up to about 10W. Took me forever to find a place that sells an 18V/180W power supply, as Hunter Douglas doesn't offer any solution themselves.

Of course, that's the raw circuit board only. You still need an enclosure. I went with a 12V enclosure and modded it. The enclosure is a great size, and you can even reuse the metal shield for the power supply, if you are careful. It also conveniently already comes with all the fuses that you'll need anyway. So, that saves you quite some work. But you do need some tinkering experience to swap out the circuit boards. You probably also need to order a couple of Molex connectors and you'll need to do some crimping and some soldering.

The next problem that you'll run into is that the enclosure needs a cooling fan, but as far as I can tell it is impossible to find 18V fans. I ended up using an ATTiny85 and a MOSFET to PWM the 18V so that I could safely drive the existing fan (make sure to configure the micro-controller for FastPWM, or you'll have to deal with an ugly humming noise!). And while at it, I also added a temperature sensor, so the fan only turns on, when needed. You also need a small DC-DC converter to power the microcontroller. And if you don't already have a way to program Atmel chips, you'll need to buy a programmer. EBay has lots of cheap options, too. All of this definitely takes some amount of tinkering skills that not everybody will have, though.

Overall, building a proper power supply and distribution box cost me just over $200 in parts. Not too bad. But the amount of time spent getting it to work was ridiculous. Especially if you add up all the time researching which parts I needed to buy in the first place. I really don't understand why Hunter Douglas couldn't sell ready-made power supplies for installing multiple PowerView blinds. Even if they charged $500 for the ready-made box, that wouldn't be entirely unreasonable -- and that would be a huge mark up and make them quite some profits. In bulk, each supply should cost less than $100 to manufacture.

The next problem is finding appropriate cables. At those low voltages, currents are going to be high, and if you have anything more than trivially short runs, you'll encounter significant voltage drops. Since Hunter Douglas said that sticking as close as possible to 18V is crucial, you'll inevitably have to install beefier wires. Hunter Douglas recommends 14AWG for powering up to two blinds, or 16AWG when powering a single blind. I had good luck with buying Monoprice in-wall speaker cable for this purpose. Get the four-conductor version to minimize the number of cables that you need to string.

Ideally, you want to avoid splicing the cables. And in many cases, if you plan carefully, you'll be able to do that just fine. But sometimes, splices are simply unavoidable (for instance, when joining 16AWG cables to an 14AWG cable). I find WAGO connectors work really well for this purpose; unlike wirenuts, they can be used both with and without ferrules. And they work well for stranded wires, where wirenuts sometimes fail.

The blinds have barrel connectors, and Hunter Douglas suggests buying plugs with screw connectors. That is a good suggestion in principle, but I find it is impossible to securely fasten the speaker cables in the screw connectors, unless you use ferrules. And that means, you'll also need to buy a crimping tool. And for good measure, you should probably shrink wrap the entire contraption afterwards. High currents means you want secure connections.

Ideally, you should run all the cables inside the walls. But that's not always possible. If you can't, then you'll need to staple them instead. Make sure to use the right staples. I asked my electrician to help in order to meet my schedule; in hindsight, that didn't work out so well. He sent me his apprentice, who promptly proceeded to run each and every staple straight through the cable. Ouch. We had to redo all the wiring.

Now, my next project is thinking of a solution to hide the Hunter Douglas remote inside of a Decora wall switch. The remote is OK, but it looks a little cheesy when wall-mounted. As I said before, PowerView blinds are fine in principle and they are probably better than most competing products, but they do feel a little unfinished at this time. When they do work though, they are really convenient.

https://blog.wwolf.us/din-mounting-for-the-pi/

This is not necessarily an exciting write-up. My main purpose is to show how easy this is and offer it as an alternative to typical cases and power supplies. Earlier in A cluster of Pi’s, I referenced DIN mounting for the Pi. DIN rails along with the POE hat would reduce the space required, cord clutter, and possibly increase cooling. It has begun…

DIN rails – Backing up

DIN rails have many applications and are commonly found in telecom and industrial environments. Other than my current use, I have used DIN rails in a fulfillment warehouse where we used DIN rails to mount all the various power supplies, breakers, switches and PLC controllers for the conveyor systems.

In a previous post here, I describe my server rack. As much as I would like to house everything inside this rack, it is quickly becoming full and I have more plans down the road for servers and UPS systems. Whereas this could be a great excuse to purchase a second rack, there is simply not enough room. This makes the use of DIN rails even more practical for me as I can easily allocate some wall space for mounting and just route the necessary Ethernet cables to the Pi’s.

DIN mounting parts list:

• Pi 4 (4GB) – I am currently only acquiring Pi 4 4GB models but any that accept a POE Hat should work for this. I have some Pi 3’s and an O-droid that may migrate to this system later.
  
• POE Hat – My first purchase of the Official POE Hat and already very impressed. I have used one from Pi Supply that worked for a little while then suddenly stopped but I have not attempted to troubleshoot.
  
• SD Card – These are my current favorites but any 8GB+ should suffice.
  
• DIN rail – I ordered a small section for now and can easily expand later.
  
• DIN rail mounts – Until I figure out my 3D printer (or replace it) these seemed like the best solution to get going quickly. Also, I like these as the mount the Pi perpendicular to the rail as opposed to parallel. This consumes much less of the rail and opens more space for Pi’s!
  
• POE capable switch – I already had a switch capable but any should work for this. Be sure to calculate your needs, 15W per Pi, and plan accordingly.
  
• Cat-6 Ethernet cables – For the price, just go with Cat-6. Cat-5 should work fine if you already have it lying around.
  
• 8 or 9mm standoffs – The POE Hat comes with Female/Female 9mm standoffs but we need Male/Female. I only have 8mm and 10mm so went with 8mm.

Wiring 101. Most of this other have covered.

1. Get a plan. Where is your head in, where do you want the jacks. Plan extra now. Need 1 either net, pull 2 wires, need 2, pull four, need four, pull six. 1 big switch is better than a bunch of little switches.
   
   
2. Pull at least cat-6. Cat 6a, or cat 7 is overkill.
   
   
3. The most expensive wire you will ever pull is the one that is 1 inch too short.
   
   
4. Inside walls are your friend, outside walls hate you. Stay away from stairs( lots of wood) Bath rooms, and kitchens will have extra pipes, be careful. Don't be afraid of cutting and patching dry wall, or oyu can be like me, and pay some one else to patch the drywall.
   
   
5. Running wires in the attic, great, use zip ties with a hole, and mount them at the peak. All the AC wire is on top of the rafters so you get separation; and the next guy up their will not stand on your cables.
   
   
6. Zip ties are great. Think gentle hug, not strangulation.
   
   
7. From the attic, you can see the top plate or drywall nailer. You will be going through 3 to 4.5" of wood, make sure your drill bit is that long.
   
   
8. For the device location cut in a Orange retro ring. See the four small holes on the corners. Hold the ring face to the wall, level it, make it even with the outlet, mark the four holes. Draw a line between the four little marks and cut. You did check for a stud before hand RIGHT. Single gang can fit 6 network connections, a double gang can fit 12.
   
   9)Use Keystone jacks, and a insert, and face plates in the field. 110 punch down in the closet. I would not recommend putting male ends on( BTW they are called 8P8C), use the jacks, face plates, and 110 punch down.
   
   
9. After the hole for the jack is cut, have some one lightly tap on the ceiling. You will be close, and you have plus or minus 14.5" to be in the same stud bay. Get a small thing of Pull string, Glow rods, and some electrical tape( go cheap, as cheap as you can find.
   
   
10. Some options for getting down the wall. No insulation, you can try to drop the wire straight down, tape the end of the wire onto a glow rod, put that end into the hole and push it down. Tie some small weights to the pull string and drop it down the hole. At the bottom, use a metal coat hanger, grid ceiling wire, or thicker steel wire to form hooks. Put a small hook on one end, and a 15 to 20 degree bend about 3 to 4 inch from the end. Don't be afraid to twist the hook arround to keep tension on the wire as you guiding it out.
    
    
11. Get a good punch down tool. Pick a or b, and stick with it.
    
    
12. Buy patch cables unless you need over 20 feet.
    
    
13. I would test with a laptop with a network port, go around and plug into each jack, just make sure you turn off the wifi first.
    
    
    
    
    
    

So according to that picture, if they wired it according to the color coding, it's 568A, so if you were to wire it up yourself, make sure the OnQ side is 568A as well to save yourself 50% of the work. But all depends if they did the blue, orange, green, brown pairs accordingly, which I'd assume they would to make their life easier.

If you were to get an 8 port Cat5E patch panel, you're going to need a punchdown tool in order to get the wires hooked up to said patch panel. It isn't hard by any means, and there are tons of videos on Youtube about terminating ethernet cables into rj45 jacks as well as onto patch panels. It isn't rocket science by any means, and depending on your comfort level and if you want to buy what you'd need (watch youtube videos first, maybe you'll find terminating rj45's directly to plug into your switch to be your cup of tea), that might be a MUCH cheaper route than getting someone out there to do it. Maybe you have a friend that can assist, if they are into networking.

But absolutely, Cat5E is Cat5E, be it used for POTS (telephone) or home networking, it's the same media, just how it's terminated on both ends is what matters.

Here is an example of an 8 port Cat5E patch panel. It has color codings for 568A and 568B (in your pic above, 568A per the wall plate, if wired correctly):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVZVUBO


Punch Down Tool w/ cutter (be careful when using that you pay attention which end the blade is so you don't cut the wrong side of the punch!):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E58M5EG

This is just to hopefully give you an idea of what to search on Youtube for information. Glad to help, just research and research before tackling it yourself, but this isn't something that is going to be super difficult, but also don't want to see someone charge you $500 to do this job!

Good luck, and it's always fun to learn a new skill!

I've done a decent amount a cabling over the last 20 years or so. the first few links I found on google aren't bad.

I'd definitely recommend having a fish tape or pull rod. Usually when I've done it in a home, I like to pull up from the basement (where I end up putting the patch panel every time I've done it) up to the attic before then running it to the upper floor rooms. I've used traditional wall plates using punch down connectors, but I think that now that they're available I would use a F/F wall plate so all you have to do is make an RJ-45 on the wall cable and plug it into the wall jack. Leave yourself an extra 12'-36" at either end of a pull (in the biz we call it a service loop, it gives you some extra play and lets you have plenty of length if you need to re-terminate).

Generally you want to use Solid cable in walls and Stranded to make patch cables, but for a home install it won't kill you to re-use the same cable for both. Plenum cable is for fire code, and generally you use it for runs in open ventilated drop tile ceilings.

Depending on how many runs you'll have and what you plan on doing, you might want a patch panel at the source of the runs. That lets you terminate the run on the panel and then makes it easier to label and re-connect things in the future. It's the more pro thing to do, but it's no the end of the world to terminate with an RJ-45.

Chances are pretty good that any switch you can get will be fine for your home needs. Even running a Plex server to a game console or streaming device you'll be fine. Only is you regularly want to move multi GB or TB files around will you see a difference between a Netgear desktop switch and a major Cisco monster (assuming that you won't have many connections and you don't need any of the more advanced features). The only feature that you may get some mileage out of is Power Over Ethernet (POE), which allows you to use some IP Phones and Wireless access points without a power adapter.

Yes I know, that's the one thing this thing offers lol, it's the only real tangible benefit you've been able to find to explain why it's 10x as much as an echo dot.

BTW these two tools will give you that same "hidden wires" benefit for a whole lot less money:

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Measuring-Klein-Tools-56005/dp/B0026TBOU8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1538366334&sr=8-5&keywords=fishtape&dpID=51JR4coh8YL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-206-Jab-Wood-Handle/dp/B00002X21P/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1538366405&sr=8-6&keywords=drywall+saw&dpID=21Fk1DkuDxL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

And then here are the actual mounts themselves: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Built-Google-Home-Mount/dp/B078Z214QX

EDIT Whoops that's the home mini, I'm sure there's an echo dot equivalent though. Frankly if you don't already have these assistants in your home, I would highly recommend the google version, it's a whole lot more useful and intelligent than alexa.

I think rampant destruction is one of the things that you just have to be prepared for when you decide to have pets or small children, it comes with the territory :-) No matter how careful you try to be, the best you can do is plan on the fact that something will get destroyed, and try to make sure that it doesn't end with a trip to the emergency vet/hospital.

I have a very curious Great Dane who's now 16 months old. Even in his puppy days he was big enough to reach my vanity table-top and/or knock the table over. A few months ago I solved the problem entirely by moving my battlestation into my master closet, which is a walk-in. Dexter is afraid of the bathroom (which is between the bedroom and closet), so he won't go near it at all. It didn't sound like you have a place to put your stuff that's off-limits to the cats, so here are some other things I've done in the past to pet-proof my valuables-

• Make everything as inaccessible as possible. Do you have free wall-space where you could mount a shelf that the cats can't get to? It would have to be high enough off the floor and far enough away from launching points for the cats to jump to, so it depends on how agile they are :-)
  
  
• Make everything as stationary as possible. Velcro picture-hanging strips (like this) are great. Just put one side on the bottom of anything you don't want to be knocked over and the other side on the surface where it sits. Mirror, lamp, storage containers, etc.
  
  
• Don't leave things dangling. I'm thinking primarily of lamp cords, but really anything that might make a tempting toy or get snagged when pets get the zoomies. Cords can be tacked down with cable clips or even taped down with duct tape.
  
  
• Regarding lights - lamps with flexible necks might be a good option. If they're secured to the table, a cat hitting them should just move the lamp head instead of knocking the whole thing to the floor. LED lamps might also be a little more resistant to bulb breakage.
  
  
• Don't leave any small items lying around. Containers for everything, seriously. I store my makeup in acrylic drawers like this and this. Both are pretty difficult to open without opposable thumbs. I got mine from Amazon, but they're really generic and you can find the exact same things on ebay. They're fairly light and could get knocked over, so I'd recommend the picture-hanging strips to secure them to the table/shelf/whatever. I bet you could also use adhesive-backed velcro to rig up little 'latches' on the drawers.

>this patch panel from Tripp-Lite

You can absolutely do it yourself. You'll just need a bladed punch down tool like https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM to help with punching down the wires and chopping off the tips. It's tedious but not difficult. Other than that, follow the online recommendations for minimizing the untwist of the wire pairs, etc etc. It's all there online for you to read up on.

You also want to ensure the wiring scheme is consistent between the wall jacks and the patch panel, so you'll want to take off one of the wall plates and confirm if the wiring is 568B to the keystone jack like the patch panel you plan to use.

​

With all that said I would wait and see what Webpass recommends. They may have better ideas or do some of the work for you. You're certainly not the first person there who needed to redo that closet.

Sorry if I'm confusing you. I'm pretty jacked up on coffee right now haha.

So yes, tone each port on that panel before you remove the wires with this Tool. After you have each blue cat 5 labeled, not the grays, you can save the grays to patch between the switch and the new panel actually, you use your punch down to pull the wires out with the hook part. With everything out, repunch the wires into the patch panel, making sure the pattern matches whats on the wall plate. A punch down tool like this one is nice but not required, to get the wires into the terminals. These are nice because it takes off the excess wire, but a knife can do this fine as well.

As for your last question. I would run up the studs if you could. Then you have a nice plate at the end at the wall. You could even get a multi port jack so you can plug all your items into that and have those go into a separate vlan on the switch.

First, do it now, while its not to hot/cold. running cable in the attic in the summer sucks. you kinda need 2+ people to run cable. it can be done solo, but that brings in so many more complications, beer for buddy. so yeah, like /u/xmangusx said, you don't want electronics up in the attic, top of a closet should be ok, somewhere a little more climate controlled. i haven't run cable in residential in a long time, but did do up a new floor of a building, and work at a datacenter, so take the numbers as a rough guide.
even if you think you want just 1 jack in each spot, run 4 cables to each room. alot easier to run a bundle of four now, then to go back and add in cabling later, even if you just let the bare end dangle behind the drywall. below is some suggested parts:
1000FT Cat 6 Bulk Bare Copper ethernet cable

4 hole keystone wall plate

cat6 punchdowns

keystone blank plates

electrical box

punchdown tool

network cable tester

24port patch panel will work in 19inch rack

wire line puller

pull string

so 1 blue box, 1 wall plate, a few blanks ( as desired # of ports) per room. start in somewhere a little less important like say the laundry room, or a closet, so you can get a hang of using the drywall knife to cut the hole, how big it needs to be etc. you will want to be near ( but not to close give liek 6 inches) to an electrical outlet if you can. use a studfinder, it should be where the electrical outlet is ( which side is the box on). find where the electrical cable comes through the 2x4, move over enough to account for stud width plus a little fudge factor, and drill a small hole, maybe 1/4 inch, just big enough to get the end of the fish line through. cut small hole in drywall near the electrical outlet ( opposite the stud) start with maybe 2 inch by 2 inch, will need to be bigger later for the box. run the fish down from attic through the stud hole you drilled, behind the drywall, and find it in the small hole cut. attach pull string to it, and pull it back, and keep pulling the pull string all the way back to central location. repeat till have all holes cut, lines run. now you will have a pretty good idea if you will need 1 or more cat6 1000ft spindles.

the hard part is going to be getting around in the attic, and simply finding a way to get from point a to be with the cable, creative use of a drill bit will be necessary. the punchdown blocks that go into the plates are color codes, do all A or B throughout the house, don't mix-n-match ( B is more common ), and is color coded. only will need a crimper, ends, is if you want to custom make the cables going from patch panel to switch, hint just buy 20 or whatever of appropriate length cables premade from monoprice, like $1 each.
expect 2 people who have never done this before, this to take more than 1 weekend.

When I was a field tech, mostly working with structured cabling and networking equipment I took the following along with me, some of these things are no longer needed with VOIP phones though:

• Klein Scissors, great for working with cabling. http://www.amazon.com/Klein-2100-7-Electricians-Scissors-Stripping/dp/B000VL03NC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_2
  
  
• Klein 11-in-1 screwdriver (I actually had two) http://www.amazon.com/Klein-32500-Screwdriver-Driver-Cushion/dp/B0015SBILG/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_y
  
  
• Harris puncdown tool ( I think fluke took them over though in quality) the little flip out hook is really useful when doing 66 blocks or panels - something like this http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-D914S-10061810-impact-EverSharp/dp/B000GA6QEI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1377872619&sr=1-2&keywords=harris+punch+down+tool (You can get cheaper here, but I burned through the ideal ones pretty fast. The harris ones seemed to last a while).
  
  
• Multimeter (Fluke makes some nice ones)
  
  
• Cable Tester - this will do phone, coax, cat5/6 and isn't crazy priced. You can buy more remotes for it too: http://www.amazon.com/Test-Um-TP300-Resi-Tester/dp/B000J15CEE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1377872779&sr=8-7&keywords=test+um+cable+tester
  
  
• Tone and probe kit (sends a signal over a cable and you can use the wand to figure out what cable it is. Killer for unmarked cables. You'll probably want to take some jacks and make up your own adapters too) - http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-PRO3000-Tone-Probe/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377872864&sr=8-1&keywords=harris+tone
  
  
• Banjo adapter is nice if you don't want to make your own: http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-1902-Modular-Adapter/dp/B000099O64/ref=pd_sim_indust_13
  
  
• If you have traditional phone lines to deal with, a buttset (or linemans set) isn't a bad thing to have either.
  
  
• Some coax tools (crimper/stripper)
  
  
• A drywall saw
  
  
• A decent tool bag. I used a generic husky one from lowes.
  
  
• A drill (keep the charger in the bag) and a decent bit set
  
  
• A box of random screws and anchors
  
  
• Bigass roll of velcro
  
  
• Double sided tape
  
  
• ALL the connectors (in bulk)
  
  
• Electrical tape
  
  
• Pull string anytime you fish a conduit or a pain in the ass space, leave a string.
  
  
• Various standard hand tools, spackle isn't bad to have and a putty knife, I had a cheap soldering iron and some basic stuff for it too. Sharpies (a whole pack of them). A level, a tape measure.
  
  
• A label maker! Brother makes a bunch. Label everything!
  
  
• Flashlight. I carried two. One small penlight on myself (streamlight) and one that shared the batteries with my drill.
  
  Obviously this all doesnt go in one bag, but I had mine in my car/truck all the time. It'd be a lot easier in an office.

You would be better off making your own. I've found that a lot of the sets are cheap.

Here's my take on it.

1.Cable tester:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d
/B000P1OA1O?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645606&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Simple cat5 tester, cheap and works decently.

2. Cable stripper:

Here I've given two options, one is a spinning stripper made for things like taking the jacket off cat5, the second is a more of an electrical stripper for a bunch of gauges of wire with cutters at the back side. If your comfortable with it you can use the cutters to strip just about anything.

2.a http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0099DIV4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645735&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

2.b. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00080DPNQ?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412645735&sr=8-12#ref=mp_s_a_1_12

3.punchdown tool :
If your in a spot where you get to do punchdowns it's nice to have, they are cheap and work well,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KMFDZ0?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646040&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

4. Cat 5 ends:
Always keep plenty of these, a bag of them is cheap and you will be glad you have them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003M5BIII?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646222&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

5: crimper:

Never underestimate a good crimper. I have had no luck with the cutting portion of them but that's why I have other tools.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AZK4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646393&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

6. #2 philps head.
I like ratcheting screw drivers with multiple heads but this is easily the most used screwdriver in my set.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NNK9MS?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412646575&sr=8-5#ref=mp_s_a_1_5

The flat head out of this set is also nice, depending on your bag keep them all handy.


Everything beyond this point is optional or situational.

8. Power supply tester: if you do any sort of computer repair these are very handy to hold on to.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MKCALY?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646902&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3

9. Tweaker: good for laptop repair or if you deal with any sort of building controllers/ low voltage electrical.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058I6VNE?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412647026&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I also have a similar sized Philips head screw driver but I use it much less frequently.

10. Electrical tape: some people say it's for those who mess up doing electrical, I call it insurance.

11. Linemans: I use mine to crimp chicklets mostly but they come in handy a lot. I couldn't find the exact ones I use b

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000A0S4XK?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412647275&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4


12: a bag:
Personally, I use an old back pack. I find its a lot easier to carry that along with a box of cable. This is entirely preference.

I didn't see anyone else mention them, but since this is low voltage, you don't even need a box at all. You can use nothing more than a mud ring, many of which will secure just through the drywall itself. Personally I prefer the metal versions, but they're not as widely available in single units. Why hassle with a box at all when you don't need one?

You also may want to look at the "fish sticks" which are flexible rods. I like the ones with 18" sections, myself. Start at the bottom and you have more control than a tape in most cases. Home Depot has versions of these as well, OP.

Note that the rods aren't a complete replacement for a tape. They're simply a different tool that sometimes does the job better in certain situations.

Cat 5e unless your PS4 is capable of 10Gbs-1! Its cheap and dependable and most back boxes are designed for it. The e is important but it is quite unlikely that you will find only Cat5 which is only rated up to 100Mbs-1. If you only need one then run two and leave a foot or so in the wall at each end for the extra cable, just in case. If I was you I'd run three cables and terminate two of them and keep one as a spare coiled up in the back of the back box.

I assume US and let's see what Amazon.com offers. https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Plate-ESYLink-Cable-Female/dp/B076GLSN5J/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wall+port+ethernet+2+port&qid=1565562692&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Ahh, it looks like you lot insist on Cat6 and have huge wall plates. So I'll change my suggestion to Cat6. Make sure you run an extra cable and don't stress them too much when you are laying them, especially when pulling through a hole, it is easy to kink them and try to use brute force to fix the problem. Buy solid core cable (not stranded) which is designed to work with "keystone jacks".

You'll need this tool https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-protecting-jacket-Multi-Function-Ethernet/dp/B01FHBZJ20/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=ethernet+punch+down+tool&qid=1565563203&s=gateway&sr=8-12 to make the connections. You can practice on some off cuts of cable before going live. The hook on the tool makes it easy to pull the wires back out from the back of a jack. There are a lot of videos on the web about doing all this stuff.

If you ever decide to splurge on a bag get a Veto Pro Pac Tech-LC it really is a great bag for electricians. The tech-LC version has nice wide pockets on the back where you can fit meters, toners, p-touch labelers ect.

Veto Pro Pac TECH-LC Tool Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008AK1ZHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j2tSDbXZJ4NFG

Edit: and also look into fluke stuff they really make amazing tools for low voltage work! Like this:

Fluke Networks 11291000 Pro-Tool Kit IS40 with Punch Down Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5VB04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y9tSDb3RX2TZV

If the "technician" suggested powerline BEFORE suggesting anything else (like an AP or mesh system) you can completely disregard anything he says honestly. Powerline is probably best saved for a last resort. You could always run Ethernet cables on the walls and use those nail in cable anchors to secure them. Something like this

Then just plug the Ethernet cable into a ubiquiti access point and you're good to go

If you are looking to do this yourself you need a combination of the following:

• Drywall knife (Something like Stanley 20-556 6-Inch FatMax Jab Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QVQH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kw7Ezb2HJYX5K)
  
  
• Cordless Drill (Even a regular corded drill will work)
  
  
• Flexbit for drilling through studs if needed (Something like Eagle Tool US EA37518 Auger Style Flex Installer Bit for Wood, 3/16" Shank Diameter, 3/8" Head Diameter x 18" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTFTORA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5x7Ezb81XWXP0)
  
  
• Glowrods (Something like 33' Electric Fiberglass Wire Pull Rods Fish Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pz7Ezb7YCC3GD)
  
  
• Stud finder if you don't know how to knock on the wall to find the studs
  
  
• Wire pass through vanity plates (
  DataComm 45-0001-WH 1-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Plate (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VF7EzbAP6DKCZ)
  
  
• Tension bracket for drywall so you can mount the plates (Low Voltage Bracket Single Gang https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PH7EzbM4KHX9H)
  
  
  If you are just going to mount the monitors right in front of your desk and don't need to go sideways like OP then you can just cut the drywall where you are going to mount the monitors and then go down to where your exit point will be and cut there and drop your wires through.
  
  If you need to do some fancy stuff - Ideally you would want to see if where all your studs were, measure the distance you'll need to bore through studs and then get glow rods and flex bits with sufficient length to do the job. Also your flex bit will need to be a big enough diameter to fit your cables through. Flex bits are super easy to work with.
  
  Hope this helps!
  
  

"Fishing tape" is more like a hard, but flexible wire that is used for fishing. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Fish-Tape-Reel-Communication/dp/B01BGZ9TM2/ref=zg_bs_6396129011_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E8KQSF2EQ0B0MFT14W9F

"Fishing pole/rod" is more like a hard, semi-flexible fiberglass rod. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=zg_bs_6396129011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E8KQSF2EQ0B0MFT14W9F

Sometimes you want one or the other.

As requested, here's the composition of the rack:

• NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  
• TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  
• Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  
• Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  
• Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  
• 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  
• Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.
  
  Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:
  
  
• Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  
• 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  
• Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  
• Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  
• Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  
• Extra rack screws and washers
  
• J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.
  
  Useful things I learned:
  
  
• I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  
• I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  
• I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  
• Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  
• Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  
• Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  
• Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  
• Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.

When I was renting I used a lot of these with network cable that was also white so it didn't look terrible. If you nail them below the trim ling or at the bottom edge of the trim you won't have to putty/paint later. But powerline ethernet adapters are a pretty good option too.

Now moved into a new place and will be running Cat6 through the attic. If you have ceiling/floor access you could see if the landlord is interested in you wiring the place properly if you can make it look clean.

Earlier this year I got myself the Ideal 30-495 FT-45 Feed-Thru Mod Plug crimp tool. Such a time saver.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VLDWS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_09rQDbJM27GKP

As an added bonus it fits perfectly in the slot for the punch-down tool in my Fluke Pro-Tool kit (I usually know which I'll need before going up the ladder)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5R3HE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_PcsQDbMDSB16B

If the lag ONLY occurs when using wifi and never occurs while using ethernet (and you don't care about others' experiences), the best solution is to try to hard-wire as much as you can. Get tacks, run an ethernet cable (my walls are white so I use white) in a very tasteful way and make it look pretty.

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY/

with that said, yeah, in the best of cases your wifi is set up so that you're never more than ~10 meters from a wireless access point and you have both 2.4 and 5GHz bands to choose from (wireless-b/g/n all work with 2.4GHz, wireless-a/n/ac work with 5GHz). Wifi will never be as good as hard wired though.

well you're lucky you have the "trust" style floor joists. Many people have either just old school 2 x 12" or the engineered I beam style joists and with those you're SOL on fishing wire through.

​

What I'd recommend is getting a fish tape wire reel kit and not the "stick kits". So depending on how far you have to go and ease of use, this tape reel kit will be easier to use.

There's some good instructional videos on Youtube if you search for it. My walls were a bit of a pain, but definitely well worth it in the end.

Here's my tool list that I'd recommend:

• Fish Tape
  
• Pull kit, this is optional
  
• Network Termination Kit
  
• Tape

I used these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FPAI3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for my attic cat6 runs and they worked out great. They were also good for holding the coax. The cables can split off from these to their respective headers without any fuss.

Use velcro straps to tie bundles together, never zip ties.

The stripping tools you can get cheap, and don't really impact ease of use, just make sure the blade is set to the correct depth as to not damage the pairs but deep enough to break the outer jacket. You can get cheap crimpers off Amazon but they aren't the nicest to use. I'm sure you can settle with them if you are just doing your own house, but doing bettering as part of my job, certainly would recommend a proper punch down tool (such as this style and not the cheapies online.

A network tester like this one doesn't cost much and might help you diagnose the issue. It can test if a link is working if you plug it in at each end, and you can also use them to send a signal through the link which the other piece can detect from nearby. Pretty useful if you ever need to suss out the location of a cable through a wall or something.

Imo the most likely case is that the connection at one or more of the ends has become broken. You should be able to fix that rather easily yourself. Google "RJ45 wall jack installation" for more info on that. You would need a punch down tool for that.

The advice given to get an Edgerouter + Unifi AP will likely service you the best in the long run. However you should strongly consider hard wiring any device you can. This will likely give you the greatest performance increase regardless of the hardware you decide using.

It's much cheaper than you may have anticipated. There's many ways to do this but here are a couple options:

OPTION #1
100ft finished Cable $12.99
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Gigabit-Ethernet-Snagless-Connector/dp/B016A913LY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=100ft+cat6&qid=1551089563&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1


OPTION #2
Create your own Cable with the following supplies

Raw CAT6 Cable 100ft = $18.90
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Copper-Outdoor-Resistant-Syston/dp/B079H3BKGV/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?keywords=100ft+cat6&qid=1551089731&s=gateway&sr=8-15

Punchdown Tool = $9.99
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=Punchdown+tool&qid=1551090195&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Keystone Jack (x2) = $9.80
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001BLWX3Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

CAT6 Patch Cable = $2.89
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-27141-Snagless-Unshielded-Network/dp/B00008KA6Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Patch%2BCable%2BCat6&qid=1551090947&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1


HOW TO
https://youtu.be/0gxNZoPcnP4

You can do it that way, but it isn't recommended. Putting on your own male networking connectors has become bad form, sort of, over the last few years. They just aren't very reliable when using solid conductor cable and they are extremely difficult to install on stranded cable without the $50k machine they use in the factory... Someday your home terminated cable will fail for no apparent reason and it will ruin your life.

If I were doing it, I would run the cable and put a box in the wall. The cable is fine. I would pickup some old work low voltage boxes, and install a wall plate and use some keystone jacks and whatever jumpers you like.

If you are open to buying somewhere other than monoprice, I really like the Cable Matters keystone jacks nowadays. I like this punch tool but this knockoff works ok as well and if you are just doing a few than you could probably get away with the plastic thing that comes with each keystone jack... they eventually will work it might just take longer and you might have to dick with it a bit.

It looks like the stuff you have picked out will work, but it just might not be super reliable or aesthetically pleasing. Plus, what do you do if you move something? Now you just have a hole in the wall with some wires flopping around... If you put jacks on the wall they just blend in with all the other jacks on the wall if you remove the jumpers...

I have been really pleased with everything from Cable Matters lately. We terminated 1200 cables for a huge IP HD video system a few weeks ago using their stuff and only had 2 or 3 that had to be repunched and we had one cable run that didn't check and that was probably our fault pulling too hard and getting a kink in it. It's pretty reasonably priced all things considered.

Also, the cable you have picked out is great. It's pure copper and not copper clad aluminum (CCA). Never use CCA it's absolute garbage and won't ever work for anything. CCA will ruin your life.

EDIT: I just wanted to correct myself, we have been buying Honeywell Genesis cat6 cable lately... not monoprice. We have been getting a better deal through ADI global on the Honeywell stuff and it is very nice cable. The reel in a box is so much better than the usual mess... no more kinks so you don't need to pay someone $25 an hour to babysit some boxes and pay out cable and yell "stop!" over the radio all day when they have to sort a kink...

My house was all Cat 3 6 home runs to the exterior. I replaced it all with solid core Cat 6 and added two runs for wireless access points in the ceiling. It was a PITA. I home ran the new stuff to a network enclosure box I added.

Cat 3 is junk I've seen it send 100Mb or more inside a house but if you ever have to troubleshoot issues your wires will always be the unknown.

As others have said you can never plan on just pulling new cat 6 behind the cat 3 it works like 10% of the time thanks to staples. So if you accept that you are cutting drywall and learning to fix those numerous holes then it's a much more realistic job. Basically everytime I got a snag I got the drywall saw out. Transitioning floors can be tricky but not impossible again cut the drywall.

Here are the best tools for the job. Flexibile long drill bit was a major cheat once I started using it. Fishing tape is a waste of the time except for conduit in my opinion use the fiberglass sticks I linked below.

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Tool-EA56254-Installer-16-Inch/dp/B00DNEEYFW/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=drill+extension+wire&qid=1564611470&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=psdc_6396129011_t3_B07F2LWVDV

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-556-Jab-Cushion-Grip/dp/B00002X21W/ref=sr_1_4?crid=12ICHMNHKXEGF&keywords=drywall+saw&qid=1564611505&s=gateway&sprefix=drywall+saw%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-4

Crimper:
Fluke Networks 11212530 Modular Crimper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5VAXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oK1TDbHF8JB1F

Combo kit with stripper, lineman's snips and punchdown tool:
Fluke Networks 11293000 Pro-Tool Kit IS60 with Punch Down Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5R3HE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sL1TDbK5ZHW73

I've had my Fluke tools for years. Dropped, lost, dropped again and have never had an issue

Klein Tools is also a great brand for low-volt/Telecom tools

Edit: ideally, you should really never be crimping ends for production use. Horizontal cabling should never terminate with RJ45 modular plugs and instead terminate to keystone jacks on both ends of the run and patching should be done on both sides with high quality pre-made patch cords. You’ll save yourself a ton of heartburn this way.

> Now, do I need a specified keystone for solid cat6 as opposed to stranded?

most keystones are designed for solid cable, because they assume that solid is what you run in the walls. Stranded is for patch cables, and should not really be run in the walls.

I just get these in whatever colors I want when I need them, and I use this punchdown tool, and it works perfectly.

If your 2.4GHz spectrum is crowded, then moving to the 5GHz spectrum could really help. Remember, though, that both the router and the computer have to support 5GHz to talk there. You might need to buy a new wireless card for it.

If you want to be sure you'll never have to deal with wireless interference again, though, you have to ditch the wireless. You can buy network cable in all kinds of lengths for pretty cheap, and just tack it to your baseboards.

I bought this kit which is admittedly pretty pricey, but all of the tools are excellent quality. You can get just the punch down tool here for $55 (get the one that just comes with the 110 blade).

Punching down is simple. Buy a Cat6 Patch Panel, and something like this for punching down. It's pretty straight forward just pick a standard (A or B on the jack/patch panel) and stick with it.

As far as your den - can you run a cable to the den from where you patch panel will be? You said there's already a cable there so if you have attic access or basement access and can follow the route of the other cable you could just use it as a pull string of sorts if it isn't stapled inside the wall. If not then wireless would be your option I'd think.

Battery backup on the rack for your servers.

Scratch the pre-maid cat cables and just learn crimp your own cabling.


Cybertech Cat6, Cat5e RJ-45 8P8C Ethernet Modular Crimp Connectors Plugs Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p7Q2AbHFZP2YW

Network Cable Repair Maintenance Tool Kit Set 11 in 1 Portable Phone Cable Crimper 8P8C 4P4C 6P6C Connectors RJ45 RJ11 Cat5 Cat6 Cable Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756SN86D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o5Q2AbBW77GFT

I also recommend an anti-static mat if you are a builder:

StarTech.com 24x27.5-Inch Desktop Anti-Static Mat M3013 (Beige) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009XT3H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_e9Q2AbGZVFVJ2

If this is a builder workbench I would also recommend a good surge strip:

Bestten 12 Outlet Heavy Duty Workshop Metal Power Strip Surge Protector, 15-Foot Long Extension Cord, ETL Certified, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MY384H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l-Q2AbTXDXJAX

Lastly, how is your lighting in the room?

the little uhooks with the nail on them. I work in IT and i use the shit out of these things to clean up cables when they are going to visible

https://www.amazon.com/PARTH-IMPEX-Management-Electrical-Ethernet/dp/B06ZYB2NV1/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541194959&sr=8-4&keywords=cable+hooks

Here is my way to do this as cheaply as I'd feel comfortable doing (note, not as cheaply as possible).

I'd put a new switch in the new office and use cat5 cable to connect to the existing switch. I'd install the new switch in a wall mount rack, and install a wall mount patch panel in the rack. I'd terminate all stations in the new office to the patch panel. The inter-office connection should be terminated to this new panel, and the other side terminated to a panel there or surface mount jack if no panel available. The number one piece of advice for a novice is do not run the cables directly to the switches or computers. Cables should be terminated to a jack or patch panel.

• $37 Wall mount bracket
  
• $24 24 port patch panel
  
• ~$1 Various length patch cords
  
• ~$1+ Various surface mount boxes
  
• $1.25 Keystone Jacks
  
• $65 1000ft of bulk cable
  
  If you don't have tools already I highly recommend you splurge a little here. I know it seems stupid "I'm only going to use it once!!". Trust me, buying decent tools can cut your install time in half or more. This $50 kit is what you need. It's extremely important to get and use the cable stripper (SureStrip in that kit). If you knick the inner cable while stripping the outer jacket on Cat5 you pretty much have to start all over. You don't really need an impact tool, that kit comes with a non-impact tool. If you have a few extra $$ go ahead and get one for about $20.
  
  For a switch, maybe Dell. We've used them in non critical areas in our enterprise, and they work fine and reliably. You mentioned PoE - unfortunately PoE switches are nearly 2x the cost of non PoE. With your tight budget, I suggest using PoE injectors. Here is a 4 port for $60 and a one port for $24

If you have interior walls are on studs and not insulated, running the wires down the walls will be much easier (since you are already going into the attic). Plus you don't have buy more expensive cable, worry about making sure the wound you put in the outside of the house is sealed appropriately to be weatherproof.

You'll need to drill a small hole in the header of the wall from the attic. If the wall isn't insulated then just drop the cable down the opening and grab it from where you make the cutout for your Ethernet faceplate/keystone jack. If you go all uninsulated walls, you'll just need a drill and standard tools. If a wall is insulated, a fish tape will be helpful. Just use your stud finder to make sure that you don't have a fire block in that stud cavity as that presents additional challenges.

Now if you have brick/cement walls, that does present another challenge.

Well the wire just need to be plugged into both end, how it get there does not matter to the wire but most people like to hide long wires.

The staple cannot go through the wire of course. I would use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY

I use one of these for marking studs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_acpCzbE82Y34Q

Another comment said fiberglass fishing sticks, I use those extensively (cable installer) as well as using fish tape when you need something more flexible

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGZ9TM2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_vepCzbK7AKCQF

Drilling up from the bottom is probably best, just take your time to scout out power lines and studs so you don't hit anything unexpected. Something I do whenever I cut in new outlets is cut the drywall first and stick a light in the hole, drill (everything is attics in SW Florida) and see if I can see the light. It's better to drill a couple times than cut extra holes in the drywall.

My favorite tool from when I used to run cables (the thing has reasonably good range, too)

Either use /u/steebo's suggestion of a vacuum at the other end, or get yourself a fish tape which is a really great tool for fishing cable down long distances. The "tape" is metal so it's easy to push, but also bends easily so it can make it around bends in conduit.

Yea if its a brick house you need basement or attic access to be minimally invasive. If the landlord is cool and does not care... you could just drill in through the side of the house right next to what ever room you were running the wire into.

If you do the eyehole thing on the door. Just be sure to run the wires so they will not get pinched :)

These will help with that

I would attach the cable to the shelves/wall using these to make sure it is straight and tidy, then tape or otherwise attach the leftover cable to the bottom of the bottom shelves. It would really neaten it up a lot.

• Wifi
  
• Powerline adapters (but you'll still run ethernet to the adapters themselves)
  
  Either solution will introduce latency. So if you're playing competitive fps games, it'll negatively affect your game.
  
  Why not use something like this to make the wire run look neater?

I found this tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E58M5EG that says it has a “BK blade.” From the pictures the BK looks exactly like a Krone blade to me though and after googling I wasn’t able to find any other tools with BK blades. Is it safe to assume it’s just Krone with a different name?

Under my couches I used the little nail-in coax cable clips. Not these ones specifically, but ones like that.

The wooden frame of the couch is hidden from view, and a couple of small nails in the wood won't hurt anything. When I took one out, you could barely tell that it had ever been in there, and that was when I was under the couch.

It's an art- it's helpful if you're familiar with how a building of that era and type is constructed. You can start at the top and drop down, or start at the bottom and push up with a fiberglass fishing rod, or drop a pull-string or fishing tape and pull the Ethernet up, or some combination therof.

Given my house, I'll probably try to drop a string down from the attic and pull ethernet up. If I get lucky I can use the same string to pull from the basement to the first floor livingroom too.

I'm lucky, there's a basement under the first floor and an attic above the second. For people on a slab or 3-story builds there's often little choice other than to go on-wall or do some significant drywall cutting.

I once had to notch drywall and right-angle drill studs for a 30ft length of wall because the client needed drops all along the space and it had to be in-wall. Slab construction and an open ceiling = nowhere to go. Drywall guy bought me a case of beer :D

Definitely don't use staples. Use wire clips like this.

Here are some ways to do this:

Easiest/cheapest/laziest:

• Get some string and run it from the router to your unit in a path that is acceptable. Measure the string and buy an outdoor rated patch cable that's long enough. Run the cable and secure it with staples designed for holding wire(you want the low voltage wire staple gun/staples)
  
  Slightly better/more professional:
  
  
• Buy some bulk outdoor Cat6 cable
  
• Buy a pair of RJ45 surface mount boxes and a (punchdown tool)[https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa)
  
• Install a surface mount jack near the router, and one in your unit
  
• Run the bulk cable between the jacks and use the punchdown tool to terminate the ends. Be sure to follow the same color code on each end
  
• Use a (cable tester)[https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Network-Tester-Ethernet/dp/B072LJYHKP/ref=sr_1_9] to make sure you have a good connection on every pair
  
• Plug a patch cable between the jack and the router, and another one between your jack and your access point
  
  Best/cleanest/most professional:
  
  
• Same as above, but run the wires inside the walls and use keystone jacks mounted inside gang boxes

Those little hook and nail things are great for running a cable line long the wall and keeping it in place as well...

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY

That's way overkill for the home gamer. I have this one, and it works great.

Ok so here's my list of stuff. Please tell me if I'm off on anything.

Speaker wire

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-G-2-bulk-speaker-cable/dp/B000F1X6GE

Subwoofer cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003P63SP0/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1504795218&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=subwoofer+cable

Fishing tool

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0026TBOU8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504795375&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fish+tape&dpPl=1&dpID=415cJ-VZ12L&ref=plSrch

I've already got the rear speakers, subwoofer and mounts.

this is a good start. I dont own this set but it does look nice.
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-11293000-IS60-Pro-Tool/dp/B000E5R3HE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1331522014&sr=1-1

These - I was able to get a smaller container of them at Walmart for like $1-2 bucks. They work well if you dont mind putting a nail in the floor.

Thanks...

Okay, the easiest and cheapest way of doing this is:

• Get a switch like this one https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/
  
  
• Get a network tool kit https://www.amazon.com/Network-Maintenance-Portable-Crimper-Connectors/dp/B0756SN86D/
  
  
• Get some Cat6 RJ45 connectors https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-100-PACK-Connector-Connectors-Transparent/dp/B01K9Z4FT2/
  
  
  What you need to do is:
  
  
• Disconnect all the blue cables from that panel
  
  
• Wire them up with the RJ45 connectors learn how to do that here https://youtu.be/rV5vgk2Mt3Iand here https://www.warehousecables.com/landing/how-to-make-a-cat6-patch-cable.php
  
  
• Check the wiring on the wall sockets, that it matches the pinout from https://www.warehousecables.com/landing/how-to-make-a-cat6-patch-cable.php
  
  
• Connect the blue cables and also the grey cable to the switch, and you should be good to go.
  
  
  Note, you may need to get new wall sockets, but I could suggest to do one test cable first and then run a speedtest using speedtest.ui.com to see if you get the same as your internet provider. One other thing to note, is that I'm not sure that Frontier Communications device is a router and can handle all the connections, you may need to get a router also.

This is more fun.

If you plan to do wireless access points you can use a poe switch to power them. With a managed switch rebooting the access point is as easy as turning the port on and off from the switch management. Always run 2 cables at least to each location. You will always find more things to plug in.

You will need a punch down tool for the keystones. Also to make it correct you should have a patch panel at the switch location to terminate the cables. punch down tool
Patch Panel
Patch Panel mounting bracket

The best way to connect it up so that you have Internet is to get a switch with enough ports to handle all of the jacks, and then wire patch cables coming off of each one of the cables going into that block. You will need a punch down tool ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a2sgzbNSBBEK7) a rj45 crimper (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F5PT7G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R3sgzb0GCQ5SN) some rj45 connectors ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m5sgzb3KQHCC8) and some CAT5 cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034XBFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W6sgzb9E3ZTQ4). You strip the wires on both sides. One side gets punched down onto the block (make sure that the colors match) and the other side is terminated with a rj45 connector (make sure that the cable is long enough to reach your switch!). Once they are all terminated, you plug them into the switch, and have your switch hooked up to your Internet modem, and then all of the jacks will have Internet access.

Nope, I ran it all myself. The longest run was from my basement to the attic. From the attic, I drilled down from the top stud into the wall of a closet. I cut open the wall of the closet and installed an access panel like this when I was done instead of patching it (so I can get in there later if I need to). From the closet, I drilled down through the floor stud inside the wall. Then my basement has a drop ceiling, so it was easy to route it down to where my media closet is. I used a fish tape to run the cable.

I don't have any construction background, but it was easy to learn from watching YouTube tutorial videos. If you're not up for doing it yourself, you can hire an electrician (expensive) or you can usually find A/V installers who can do low voltage runs through your walls for cheaper.

Fish Tape can be very useful too:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGZ9TM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_O1ttzb9JZR2EK

Personally I'd just use a bunch of wire u-clips and put some spackle in the holes when I move out. It's a garage, that shouldn't be a big deal.

But if not, those command strips above are a good call.

And if you really don't want to attach anything to the ceiling, at least get one of these.

I like the tennis ball idea. I have something called a cable caster that I use. Think of a fishing reel mounted on a dart gun. The line ties to the "dart" and goes a good ways too.
https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-06186-Cablecaster-Pulling-Three/dp/B001HWAGRM

I'm having a new house built and will be using these in the rafters to run my drops.
Gardner Bender Multi Cable Staple

Hope this helps.

I see. So you are saying double sided tape didn't really work for you either? Maybe we would need to get something like this then

Something like this would mount into a rack. You would take those cables and punch the wire into the back of the panel in the link above, similar to your existing setup.

Also, this is a punch down tool.

Klein Tools 56005 1/4-Inch Fish... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026TBOU8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yes, I didn’t want to risk removing the boot. $10 was worth piece of mind.

You may want to invest in a cheap punch down tool. It’ll make sure the wire is punched correctly and trim off the extra so it doesn’t get pulled out or cause a short somehow.

The jack appears to be wired correctly so as long as you can verify that you in fact have both ends of the wire I don’t see any reason why it shouldn’t work.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM

If you can hide the cable the whole run under carpet. Getting past the archway will be easy with a fish tape https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-56001-Strength-50-Foot/dp/B0026TA6RK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480647857&sr=8-3&keywords=fish+tape With ribbon cable https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-jadaol-Internet-computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480648036&sr=8-3&keywords=flat+network+cable+100ft you wont even feel it under the carpet when standing on it.

If you have multiple access points you could try something like this...

Greenlee 06186 Cablecaster Wire Pulling Tool With Three Darts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWAGRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QZimDbNW0HWEF

It might limit the time you spend in the space?

I was planning on using clips like these...I use these on my cable cords in 1-2 of my bedrooms... as long as I can find ones that are that large.

they are also spring loaded, like a nail punch. http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Impact-Blades/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1377055017&sr=8-3&keywords=punchdown+tool

could be something like this https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY

I bought a long, white coax cable from home depot, and ran it down the wall, and around the baseboards to the opposite wall, to be hidden on my media unit. Used these to secure it tightly in place, along boards. It is basically invisible. You can also get different styles of clips at your hardware store.

I have friend that just ran a plain old Cat6 Cable straight from the room that the router was in throw a window up into to his bedroom. The trouble was over time the tiny hole the window screen became a massive tear. You could also get some coax clips and pin that cable along the ceiling. I've done that for my home theater system because there was too much insolation in the walls to fish the cable.

If it's the rods you screw together, we call it a fish rod. if it's the metal strip that rolls up into a unit with a handle, we call it a fish tape. There was a special fish rod that was green nylon that glowed in the dark and we called it the glow rod.

Yeah, it was sort of a hacky way to do it. At this point, I'll likely buy some keystone jacks and redo it (since I also bought a punchdown tool already).

I'm in a pretty arid place, but even I have gutters. How does your house handle rain?

That being said: electrical staples.

Here, have a wire pulling gun to cheer you up

Just buy these...

http://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY

I have my entire rented house ran using those things, I just do it along the wall/baseboard all neat and stuff. They have wider versions if you wanna run two cables instead of one. When I need to run it up a wall and there is no corner near by, I just use this...

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_pg_2?rh=n%3A172282%2Ck%3Acable+channel+raceway+wall&page=2&keywords=cable+channel+raceway+wall&ie=UTF8&qid=1418615205

amazon + paladin

http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-4909-SureStrip-Non-Impact-Punchdown/dp/B0008F5VA6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1323570620&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-1574-Testing-Installed/dp/B0002W3A6M/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

Otherwise you're into the 200+ range.

Hmm, wonder why they did that. Anyway, here's an Amazon link - https://www.amazon.ca/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=coaxial+cable+clip&qid=1571259964&sr=8-3

You could do a through/in wall cable pass through/s. There are lots of options for diffrent types. some go through into the next room, some just go into the wall with the intention of running the cables through the wall to another receptacle that is placed lower or higher.

The hardest part will be getting the cables routed through the wall. You could use a wire fish to get them trough. I'd recommend running a cable pull (a pice of thin nylon rope), t hat can be left in place, in case you need to run additional wires latter on.

I personally do not like that crimper. I have used the blue one (they are our shitty throw around tools at work), and I personally much prefer the orange one. I like the ratchet action better.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0008F5VA6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1376270954&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY190
Try this:

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481834961&sr=8-2&keywords=cable+tacks

Maybe you can find one sized exactly for USB, Q&A indicates this might be just a touch loose.

For drop ceilings and low voltage cable, fish sticks are absolutely the way to go. Also zip ties. There's also this guy. Looks fun, but I can't say I've ever actually used it.

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG

These things don't totally cover the strip but they are more than enough to keep it held on tight.

PARTH IMPEX Round Cable Wire Clips 4mm 6mm 8mm 10mm (Pack of 400) Cable Management RG6 RG59 CAT5 CAT6 RJ45 Electrical Ethernet Dish TV Speaker Wire Cord Tie Holder Single Coaxial Nail Clamps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYB2NV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Kui5AbSKNGRY2

The below is all you should need maybe with the addition of some paint

mounting wall hooks

cable clips

send me pics if you end up making it!

Buy some glow rods:
33' Electric Fiberglass Wire Pull Rods Fish Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tGuhAb26GG3VD

I've only ever used these ones

They get the job done.

a punch down tool.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Impact-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463364132&sr=8-4&keywords=punch+down+tool

Just run one along the wall above head level and hold it up using these things

thats what I did, not 200 feet though.

They have cable holders that do exactly this.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Clip-White-RG6-100-pieces/dp/B000I97FHY

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG

or

https://www.amazon.com/Fish-Impact-Electric-Communication-Puller/dp/B0025Z81BS

then it is for phone. You may get a patchpanel, remove the wiring from the phone panel, and use a punch tool to connect it to the ethernet patch panel. You would need to run power to that location and connect each patch panel port to the switch/router that you locate there.

Note: this only works if all 8 wires were connected in the wall sockets. If there are only 2 of the 8 connected, redo them.

Punch tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FHBZJ20/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )

Patch panel: e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495168315&sr=1-4&keywords=patch+panel

I did the same in my apartment last weekend. There was already a patch panel for ethernet, but all wiring was connected to the phone panel.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026TBOU8/ref=sxts_kp_bs_1?pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=DdRVS&pf_rd_r=C744MBRXWY16CSB4HHTV&pd_rd_i=B0026TBOU8&pd_rd_w=fGzeL&pd_rd_r=a9255a04-57b1-4447-9aa1-5bea4fee238a&ie=UTF8&qid=1550616178&sr=1

Here are the links without the referral tags:
Stud-finder and Fish Tape.

punch down tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Network-Punch-Impact-Blades/dp/B01E58M5EG/ref=zg_bs_6396135011_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=86ZM49GHXCDNAYTMCYNQ

Fish tape. Klein Tools 56001 1/8-Inch Wide Steel Fish Tape, 50-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026TA6RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3U0LAbR43RGS9

Vastar Network Wire Punch Down Impact Tool with Two Blades - 110 and BK & Network Wire Stripper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E58M5EG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7DDtybSHVADW5


This is the tool I have.

That'll work, but I would get this: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-Punch-Down-Impact-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM

Cable Staples

A fish tape reduced my wire-related cursing substantially.

Is this more like what you're looking for?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I97FHY/
Or a little more power and finish
https://www.homedepot.com/p/PowerShot-5900-Insulated-Cable-and-Wire-Tacker-5900/202097439

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LW4CFG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If it is a non load bearing interior wall it is very possible there is no stud. Code was very different when that house was built. Studs will not always be 16 inches on center. At the same time, stud finders rarely work on plaster and lath walls.

Do this. Go to where you want the center of the TV mount to be. Drill 2, 1/4 inch holes or so into the wall at as steep of an angle as you can (60 degrees or so) and drill them in opposite directions. Then, get some wire fish fiberglass rods, and stick them in the wall going in both directions and see if you hit something. Click these links below

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-16-inch-x-33-ft-fiberglass-wire-running-kit-65326.html

http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG

If you can slide the rods in and go in say 13 inches and you hit something, chances are that is your stud. From there mark the rod, pull it out, and then hold the rod flush against the wall and mark your stud. From there, get an 1/8 inch drill bit and drill a series of holes of where you think the stud is. And you can usually map it out that way.

I used to work for a high end AV/HIFI company and installed countless flat screens. That is how I always did it.

If you have ports around your house, I would start by buying a cable tracer and tester kit like this.

You appear to have an OnQ 1x12 telecom system in place in that cabinet which is for phones only and an OnQ network interface panel. So the OnQ 1x12 part isn't useful for you, but you could use the OnQ network interface part and a switch to make this work. You will need a 110 punch down tool will have to do some rewiring though.

Edit: changed comment after noticing it was an OnQ system.

> fishsticks

Are you referring to these?

Sorry not familiar with the term.

standards we follow for certified installs are in a crawlspace under a building if there is 500mm (around 2 foot i guess?) clearance between the ground and the floor we can use indoor cabling.

as someone who runs into old installs all the time i have seen indoor cabling used in nasty ass wet environments and still running after 10 years or so.

i would say in your case used cable clips like this
http://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY
on indoor cat6, if theres a bit of slack make a coil and cable tie it gently onto the supported cable.

Get a patch panel something like this. Pull the cables off the 66 block that you want to convert from phone use to data/network use. Punch them down on this patch panel with a punchdown tool. Use factory-made ethernet patch cords to connect from the patch panel to your switch. You don't need crimpers.

I would have had the same problem, but instead I bought these [bad boys] (http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Clip-White-RG6-100-pieces/dp/B000I97FHY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344787963&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+clips). I don't know how your parents would like the cable going along the trim though :\

All of the above, plus a few usb thumb drives.

A copy of any os you expect to work on as you can almost guarantee that the customer does not have a copy. (set up a seperate usb drive to install each os).

A few known good parts also helps. (cheap graphics card for systems with no integrated graphics, a spare power supply to allow you to insure nothing else is damaged if a psu goes bad (had that happen to me, psu and graphics, just didn't know about the graphics till after replacing the psu and felt stupid "yeah your psu was bad, but your graphics card is bad also...")

If you are doing mobile repairs (at customers location), then a laptop and internet access (from your phone hotspot or separate hotspot never count of the customer to have internet access).

If you are going to be running new network cable then a:

wall fish I prefere the fiber glass rods for running across attics or drop ceilings over the metal tape unless you will be running in conduit (but in conduit I prefer jetline and compressed air for that).

strong magnet, and a chain (you can buy it by the foot from hardware stores)(small links, 10ft of Sash Chain is what I use. (tape the wire to the chain with electrical tape, drop the chain down the wall, use the magnet to locate it, a strong magnet will slap the chain to the inside of the wall, and pull the chain to the whole for the outlet then pull the wire through)

I bought an electrician’s fish tape and attached my endoscope to that with tape. Makes it more rigid so you can jam it around the ridges in those drain pipes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026TA6RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_IzOCDbV9AVQ4Z

Closest thing I could find to what we used but ours wasn't as good as this one

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001HWAGRM?pc_redir=1409578671&robot_redir=1

Leatherman - Charge TTI

Fluke Networks MS2-KIT

JackRapid Punchdown Tool

Fluke Networks 11293000 Pro-Tool Kit IS60 with Punch Down Tool or similiar

a set of crimpers (can't find a good set at the moment)

network ends, cable, wall plates etc.

something a lot of people dont realize in new homes: All your phone jacks, that likely go to the same wiring panel as anything else would, most of the time those phone jacks were ran with Cat5e or Cat6. From there you just buy a 110 block punch down tool (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM), some keystones https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW, and some plates, and start re-purposing those phone jacks you dont need.

This. Fish tape will be a pain because it will get caught on every wood lath. If you can tie to an existing cable line do it. If not I would get rods like these.

http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG

If its an interior wall it may not have insulation. Then you can tie a heavy nut to a string and lower it down.

OP! That tester you are looking at will only check that the cables are installed without flipped or crossed pairs, and that there isn't a break somewhere. To do an actual performance tests on the cables you'd need this, or something similar...and you'd probably never use it again in your life. As it's more than ten times the cost of your install, I'd say it's not worth it.

That said, don't buy that POS you're looking at. Buy this. Paladin sucks. Buy the Ideal kit and it will serve you well until the day you die.

Ok, so looking over your pictures I have good news. You should be able to call a company that does actual communication's wiring and simply have them move that rack mount up 1.5 feet or so and re-terminate, and be done with it. It's at most 4 hours of work for a skilled tech. I could do it in less than 3. So..that's about $400 max, perhaps way less depending on where you live.

If that is a bit of a steep price you could buy this (DON'T BE CHEAP, GET THAT KIT!) and do it yourself no problem. You could then also pop open the face plates and repair the jacks if need be, because they are probably not terminated properly either based on what I see here. I could be wrong. Can you post an image of a jack side termination?

Now, is any of this strictly necessary? Probably not. The outer jacket on standard cat 6 is not doing very much over that short of a distance. Your twist density is maintained, and that's what's paramount. That said, properly terminating a patch panel can be an enjoyable and rewarding experience, and I think you should give it a try.

Also, residential runs are short (short = high performance), and cat 6 is excessive for most users needs. Cat 5e preforms at gigabit, do you have anything with a more than gigabit network port? Neither do most of the commercial customers my industry sells shielded cat 6a installs to...but that's another topic entirely. Anyway, proper terminations on both ends and nothing majorly screwy going on with the install as a whole and you have an excellent (excessive actually) home Ethernet system for the life of the building.

BTW, was this a commercial install it would have cost you a minimum of *$***7200** where I live...so you are getting a hell of a deal, even with residential cable being cheaper and these AV clowns having fucked the dog on the panel termination, kind of. But if they didn't kill the cable with metal staples for some reason, or bend the ever loving hell out of it for some reason, it should preform as is and if not with at best a days work a professional can bring it up to spec, maybe two days if you do it yourself.

I keep looking this over. It's a huge wall of text that says everything is probably fine, but you should fix it anyway. That is my final answer.

Staple gun is not a good idea, it will almost certainly damage it. They make purpose made staple guns for running wires, or you can get a pack of cable tacks Example.

Edit: If you really want to use a staple gun, don't staple the wire, staple a zip tie up in the middle and then use that to secure the cable.

Paying someone to run Ethernet is a huge waste of money. Even with buying all the tools and supplies yourself you will save lots of money.

In your situation I would go up into the attic then run down into the walls to your wall jacks.

Stuff you'll need: (not including drywall saw and gang boxes/gang frames to mount the wall jacks)

http://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network- Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464334&sr=1-2&keywords=rj45

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-Go-19958-Steel/dp/B0017RAHSA /ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464421&sr=1-2&keywords=wire+fish

http://www.cablingplus.com/t/networking/jacks-and-connectors/cat5e-keystone-jacks-25-packs

http://www.cablingplus.com/t/networking/wall-plates/classic-keystones- wall-plates

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Impact-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457464708&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=110+punch+down&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Ethernet-Cat-5e-VIVO-CABLE-V001/dp/B0092TG310/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464781&sr=1-5&keywords=cat5

For around $165.00 you'll have everything you need. Less if you need less than 1000' of cable.

It's true that the cable I listed is not plenum rated but you're not going to be in the attic if your house is on fire anyway. I wouldn't worry about it or waste the money on it.

I've installed hundreds of miles of cat5 in my earlier career before switching to sysadmin stuff.

I did find this

https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-06186-Cablecaster-Pulling-Three/product-reviews/B001HWAGRM

But videos show it's weak. Can't get more than 15' from it and it looks crappy.