(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best electrical wall switches

We found 3,136 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical wall switches. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 623 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

22. GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Light Switch, Toggle Style, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Repeater & Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 12727

    Features:
  • ALEXA COMPATIBLE - REQUIRES AN ALEXA SUPPORTED HUB for voice control with Echo Products (Alexa device and hub sold separately). CANNOT connect directly with ECHO PLUS (Only ZigBee products can connect directly to Echo Plus).
  • Requires a Z-Wave certified gateway. Compatible with the following Z-Wave certified Hubs: SmartThings, Wink, ADT Pulse, Trane, Vivint, Nexia, Honeywell, HomeSeer, Harmony Home Hub Extender, Vera, Connect and Iris. Works with Alexa for voice control (hub required; Alexa device and hub sold separately).
  • The switch enables you to wirelessly control lights turning them on and off, schedule a timed event, or create a custom scene from anywhere in the world, at any time of the day.
  • Easily replace any standard in-wall switch with the GE Z-Wave Smart Switch to control permanently installed lighting or fans with your mobile device or computer using any Z-Wave certified gateway. Can be controlled in groups of multiple lights or turned on or off within ambient interior lighting scenes.
  • Note:A Neutral wire and certified Z-Wave Hub are required for proper function of the function Supported voltage: 120 VAC
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Light Switch, Toggle Style, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Repeater & Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 12727
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height4.25 Inches
Length2.25 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateJanuary 2019
Size1 Pack
Weight0.5 Pounds
Width2.25 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

24. GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Outdoor Module, On/Off, Plug-In, Black, Hub Required, 12720, Works with Alexa

    Features:
  • ALEXA COMPATIBLE - REQUIRES AN ALEXA SUPPORTED HUB for voice control with Echo Products (Alexa device and hub sold separately). CANNOT connect directly with ECHO PLUS (Only ZigBee products can connect directly to Echo Plus).
  • Requires a Z-Wave certified gateway. Compatible with the following Z-Wave certified Hubs: SmartThings, Wink, ADT Pulse, Trane, Vivint, Nexia, Honeywell, HomeSeer, Harmony Home Hub Extender, Vera, Connect and Iris. Works with Alexa for voice control (hub required; Alexa device and hub sold separately).
  • Wirelessly control your home's outdoor lighting and appliances, including seasonal and landscape lighting, fountains and pumps, letting you turn lights on and off or schedule a timed event from anywhere, at any time.
  • Features one (1) Z-Wave enabled outlet with integrated outlet cover that protects module from dirt and debris when not in use. Weather and impact resistant housing withstands damp or wet conditions - should not be directly exposed to rain or fully submerged.
  • Easily control outdoor lighting with your mobile device or computer using any Z-Wave certified gateway, or control lighting on location with the manual push-button control or a Z-Wave certified remote.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Outdoor Module, On/Off, Plug-In, Black, Hub Required, 12720, Works with Alexa
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height6 Inches
Length2.5 Inches
Number of items1
SizeGE 45604 Z-Wave(R) Outdoor Module
Weight0.65 Pounds
Width4.5 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

25. Lutron Caseta Smart Start Kit, Dimmer Switch with Smart Bridge and Wall Mount Pico Adapter, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | P-BDG-PKG1W-A | White

    Features:
  • Includes (1) Caseta smart bridge (1) Caseta dimmer switch (1) Pico 3-button dimming remote and (1) Pico wall plate bracket wallplate not included sold separately
  • PEACE OF MIND: Set lights to automatically adjust with changing seasons so your family always comes back to a well-lit home you can also enable the smart away feature to randomly turn your lights on and off to look like you’re home even if you’re away
  • MOST CONNECTED: Caseta connects with more leading smart home devices – including Amazon Alexa, Apple HomeKit, the Google Assistant, Ring, Serena shades and Sonos – than any other smart lighting control brand
  • CONTROL YOUR WAY: Caseta puts the smarts in the switch so you can control a variety of ways – via the free Lutron app, your voice or from the wall; Create personalized schedules to change lights at set times or activate scenes with the touch of a button
  • RELIABLY SMART: The smart bridge doesn’t use Wi-Fi so you get super-fast ultra-reliable smart lighting that works right without slowing your Wi-Fi down with more devices
  • SET IT AND FORGET IT: Always keep your smart light functionality even when the Wi-Fi goes down there’s no need to reset your schedules and scenes or reconnect everything when it comes back online
  • GET MORE SPEND LESS: 1 Caseta smart switch can control many bulbs at once make many bulbs smart even your existing bulbs get smart control of multiple styles of dimmable LED incandescent and halogen bulbs
  • WORKS WITH EXISTING WIRING: Unlike other smart dimmer switches Caseta works in any home of any age as it does not require a neutral wire
Lutron Caseta Smart Start Kit,  Dimmer Switch with Smart Bridge and Wall Mount Pico Adapter, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | P-BDG-PKG1W-A | White
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height5.63 Inches
Length9.38 Inches
Number of items1
Width6 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

28. Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch and Pico Remote Kit, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | P-PKG1WB-WH | White

    Features:
  • Includes (1) Caseta dimmer switch, (1) Pico 3-button dimming remote, and (1) Pico wall plate bracket; Wallplate not included sold separately
  • PEACE OF MIND: Set lights to automatically adjust with seasons so your family always comes back to a well-lit home; Enable smart away to randomly turn your lights on/off to look like you’re home even if you’re away (smart bridge, L-BDG2-WH, required). Power Options: Hardwired, Dimmer Type: Tap
  • MOST CONNECTED: Caseta connects with more leading smart home devices – including Alexa, Apple HomeKit, the Google Assistant, Ring, Serena shades and Sonos – than any other smart lighting control brand (smart bridge required)
  • CONTROL YOUR WAY: Caseta puts the smarts in the switch so you can control a variety of ways – via the free Lutron app, your voice or from the wall; Schedule lights to change at set times or activate scenes with the touch of a button (smart bridge required)
  • GET MORE, SPEND LESS: 1 Caseta smart switch can control many bulbs at once; Make many bulbs smart, even your existing bulbs. Get smart control of multiple styles of dimmable LED, incandescent, and halogen bulbs.
  • WORKS WITH EXISTING WIRING: Unlike other smart dimmer switches, Caseta works in any home, of any age, as it does not require a neutral wire
  • WIRELESS REMOTE CONTROL: Use the included wireless Pico remote to turn your lights on, off, or dim and brighten with the touch of a button from anywhere in the homes
  • EASY 3-WAY SETUP: Create a 3-way by mounting Pico to almost any wall surface without cutting holes or pulling wire, with the Pico wall mount bracket. Replace existing 3-way switches by mounting the bracket and Pico over the backbox
  • TECHNICAL DETAILS: Works with up to 150W dimmable LED light bulbs/CFL light bulbs or 600W incandescent bulbs/halogen bulbs; Not rated for low voltage applications (i.e. track or landscape lighting)
Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch and Pico Remote Kit, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | P-PKG1WB-WH | White
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height4.75 Inches
Length1.5 Inches
Number of items1
Width3 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

34. GE 14284 Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Outdoor Switch, 1-Outlet Plug-In, Weather-Resistant, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, for Landscape & Seasonal Lighting. Hub Required, Black

    Features:
  • VOICE CONTROL – ALEXA & GOOGLE ASSISTANT COMPATIBLE (requires a Z-Wave certified hub). Works with the following Z-Wave certified hubs: SmartThings, Ring Alarm, Wink, ADT Pulse, ADT Command, Trane, Vivint, Nexia, Honeywell, HomeSeer, Vera and more.
  • CONVENIENT WEATHERPROOF DESIGN – Impact- and weather-resistant housing withstands the elements for outdoor placement. When properly installed, the grounded outlet faces down to protect against rain and debris. Compact construction blends into any setting while the high-quality drop cable is ideal for use with covered outdoor outlets. Built-in keyhole bracket offers secure, simple mounting option.
  • HASSLE-FREE OPERATION – Control the device remotely with your smartphone and voice commands when connected to a compatible hub or enjoy manual ON/OFF operation from the switch. Home automation is simple through custom scenes, versatile scheduling and convenient alerts.
  • FULL-HOME COVERAGE – Z-Wave Plus works with all previous Z-Wave generations to allow continued expansion of your smart-home network. The switch is capable of controlling indoor or outdoor fixtures for whole-home automation.
  • EASY INSTALLATION – No wiring required. Simply plug in the device and connect to your hub for convenient ON/OFF functions. Space-saving design leaves second outlet free for continued use and offers discreet outdoor placement. Works with all LED, CFL, incandescent and halogen bulbs as well as other devices. Operating temperature range 32-104 degrees Fahrenheit.
GE 14284 Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Outdoor Switch, 1-Outlet Plug-In, Weather-Resistant, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, for Landscape & Seasonal Lighting. Hub Required, Black
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height2.5 Inches
Length5.5 Inches
Number of items1
SizeSwitch
Weight0.4 Pounds
Width4 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

35. GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Motion Light Dimmer, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, 3-Way Compatible, ZWave Hub Required, Repeater/Range Extender, White & Light Almond, 26933

    Features:
  • VOICE CONTROL – ALEXA & GOOGLE ASSISTANT COMPATIBLE (requires a Z-Wave certified hub). Works with the following Z-Wave certified hubs: SmartThings, Ring Alarm, Wink, ADT Pulse, ADT Command, Trane, Vivint, Nexia, Honeywell, Home Seer, Harmony Home Hub Extender, Vera and more.
  • SELECT MOTION CONTROL – The dimmer adjusts brightness levels of dimmable LED, CFL, incandescent and halogen lights from 0-100 percent to reduce energy costs and improve bulb life. Personalize the dimmer with three motion-detection options – occupancy, vacancy and manual. Occupancy mode turns lights ON/OFF automatically, while lights are turned on manually and off automatically in the vacancy setting. To deactivate the motion sensor, select manual operation. With five time-out duration options ranging from five seconds to 30 minutes and up to 180-degree detection coverage, the dimmer accommodates any room with varying amounts of activity. Additionally, enjoy custom scenes, versatile scheduling and convenient alerts with remote operation and voice control when connected to a compatible hub.
  • 3-WAY READY – The smart device operates perfectly on its own or seamlessly integrates into multi-switch setups with required add-on switches – models 12723 or 46199. Up to four add-on switches can be connected to the same device.
  • FULL-HOME COVERAGE – Z-Wave Plus works with all previous Z-Wave generations to allow continued expansion of your home-automation network. The dimmer is capable of controlling indoor or outdoor fixtures for whole-home automation and repeats your Z-Wave signal from your hub or other devices to extend your range by up to 150ft. Extended signal range increases your home automation coverage to enhance your control.
  • EASY INSTALLATION – Requires indoor in-wall installation with hardwired connections. NEUTRAL WIRE REQUIRED. Includes white and light almond cover buttons (wall plate not included). Full-range dim ability for use with dimmable LEDs and CFLs as well as incandescent and halogen bulbs. Supported wattage – 600W incandescent; 150W LED/CFL. Supported voltage – 120VAC. Operating temperature range 32-104 degrees Fahrenheit.
GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Motion Light Dimmer, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, 3-Way Compatible, ZWave Hub Required, Repeater/Range Extender, White & Light Almond, 26933
Specs:
ColorWhite & Light Almond
Height3 Inches
Length1.5 Inches
Number of items1
SizeDimmer
Weight0.7 Pounds
Width1.5 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

37. Lutron Caseta Smart Start Kit, Dimmer Switch (2 Count) with Smart Bridge and Pico remotes, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | P-BDG-PKG2W-A | White

    Features:
  • PEACE OF MIND: Set lights to automatically adjust with changing seasons so your family always comes back to a well-lit home; you can also enable the Smart Away feature to randomly turn your lights on and off to look like you’re home even if you’re away.
  • MOST CONNECTED: Caseta connects with more leading smart home devices – including Alexa, Apple HomeKit, the Google Assistant, Serena shades and Sonos – than any other smart lighting control brand
  • CONTROL YOUR WAY: Caseta puts the smarts in the switch so you can control your lights a variety of ways – via the free Lutron app, your voice, or from the wall. You can create personalized schedules to turn on, off, or dim lights at set times to best fit your everyday routines, or activate favorite lighting scenes with the touch of a button
  • RELIABLY SMART: The smart bridge doesn’t use Wi-Fi, so you get super-fast, ultra-reliable smart lighting that works right, without slowing your Wi-Fi down with more devices
  • SET IT AND FORGET IT: Always keep your smart light functionality. Even when the Wi-Fi goes down, there’s no need to reset your schedules and scenes or reconnect everything when it comes back online
  • GET MORE, SPEND LESS: One Caseta smart switch can control many bulbs at once; make many bulbs smart, even your existing bulbs get smart control of multiple styles of dimmable LED, incandescent, and halogen bulbs
  • WORKS WITH EXISTING WIRING: Unlike other smart dimmer switches, Caseta works in any home, of any age, as it does not require a neutral wire
  • EASY 3-WAY SETUP: With the included Pico remote control, create a 3-way by mounting the Pico to almost any wall surface without cutting holes or pulling wire. You can also replace existing 3-way switches by mounting the Pico over the back box; wall plate bracket, PICO-WBX-ADAPT, required for mounting Pico and sold separately
  • Includes: (2) Caseta smart dimmer switches, (2) Pico wireless remotes, (2) wallplates, and (1) Lutron smart bridge
Lutron Caseta Smart Start Kit, Dimmer Switch (2 Count) with Smart Bridge and Pico remotes, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | P-BDG-PKG2W-A | White
Specs:
ColorWhite
Height1.2 Inches
Length2.8 Inches
Number of items1
Weight0.000625 Pounds
Width2.8 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

39. GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Switch, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, 3-Way Compatible, ZWave Hub Required, Repeater/Range Extender, Toggle, 14292

    Features:
  • VOICE CONTROL – ALEXA & GOOGLE ASSISTANT COMPATIBLE (requires a Z-Wave certified hub). Works with the following Z-Wave certified hubs: SmartThings, Ring Alarm, Wink, ADT Pulse, ADT Command, Trane, Vivint, Nexia, Honeywell, HomeSeer, Harmony Home Hub Extender, Vera and more.
  • HASSLE-FREE OPERATION – Control the device remotely with your smartphone and voice commands when connected to a compatible hub or enjoy manual ON/OFF operation from the switch. Home automation is simple through custom scenes, versatile scheduling and convenient alerts.
  • 3-WAY READY – The smart device operates perfectly on its own or seamlessly integrates into multi-switch setups with required add-on switches – models 12728 or 46200. Up to four add-on switches can be connected to the same device.
  • FULL-HOME COVERAGE – Z-Wave Plus works with all previous Z-Wave generations to allow continued expansion of your home-automation network. The switch is capable of controlling indoor or outdoor fixtures for whole-home automation and repeats your Z-Wave signal from your hub or other devices to extend your range by up to 150ft. Extended signal range increases your home automation coverage to enhance your control.
  • EASY INSTALLATION – Requires indoor in-wall installation with hardwired connections. NEUTRAL WIRE REQUIRED. Wall plate not included. Works with all LED, CFL, incandescent and halogen bulbs as well as other devices. Operating temperature range 32-104 degrees Fahrenheit.
GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Switch, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, 3-Way Compatible, ZWave Hub Required, Repeater/Range Extender, Toggle, 14292
Specs:
ColorWhite 1-pack
Height2.2 Inches
Length4.2 Inches
Number of items1
Size.Switch.
Weight0.4 Pounds
Width2.2 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on electrical wall switches

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where electrical wall switches are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 61
Number of comments: 24
Relevant subreddits: 7
Total score: 57
Number of comments: 15
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Total score: 52
Number of comments: 25
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 45
Number of comments: 17
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 44
Number of comments: 15
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 37
Number of comments: 21
Relevant subreddits: 4
Total score: 36
Number of comments: 24
Relevant subreddits: 5
Total score: 32
Number of comments: 19
Relevant subreddits: 4
Total score: 27
Number of comments: 15
Relevant subreddits: 4
Total score: 20
Number of comments: 15
Relevant subreddits: 1

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Top Reddit comments about Electrical Wall Switches:

u/r0b0tvampire · 1 pointr/HomeKit

Here are my thoughts:

  • HomeKit is definitely the correct choice for ease of use and privacy
  • plugs are easy to install, can be used for a variety of things, do not require any modification of the home, and doesn't introduce confusion with wall light switches. My recommendations are the Satechi Dual Smart Plug (two- smart outlets that don't block an outlet and monitoring) and the VOCOlinc SmartBar (cheaper and doesn't block an outlet, but only one smart outlet)
  • get smart bulbs if you don't want to mess with wiring. The HUE are probably the best, and the IKEA are probably a more attractive price. Don't get too many color bulbs until you try one. The use of color in bulbs grows old after three days of "coolness". Wi-Fi bulbs will not require a bridge from the manufacturer. HOWEVER, you may want to consider something with bridge (like the HUE or IKEA). The bridge will have better performance due to how HomeKit communications work, and it might be better if you are in an apartment with congested Wi-Fi signals
  • The Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Lamp Dimmeris plugs into your outlet for connecting lamps that you want to dim
  • If you don't mind wiring, (its so easy to do that you could easily remove them when you move out) I highly recommend the Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Dimmer Switch. Rock solid and fast and easy to install. Its the best for lights because you don't have figure out the physical "switch" problem, and anybody can still use the lights in the apartment without having access to HomeKit.
  • An AppleTV for your hub

    ​

    That should get you going!
u/DManTech · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Making Hue lights usable by the rest of the family is definitely a concern. You have a couple of easy options:

  • Get Hue dimmer switches ($23 each)

  • Get Hue motion sensors ($33 each)

  • Use Alexa on the Echo Dots

    Depending on your specific needs you'll probably want to use a combination of these things.

    The dimmer switches work well, you can press the On button repeatedly to pick between 4 scenes, and then change the brightness of a scene once it is set.

    I just started playing with the motion sensor and it's definitely nice to have the lights respond without having to explicitly turn them on and off, but not everything will make sense to be triggered by motion.

    I also find myself frequently using Alexa to control the lights. The main consideration here is that you will need to group your lights into rooms and make sure everyone in the family knows what the names of the rooms/lights are. Alexa has the ability to set light brightness, set a specific color, or change to a Hue scene. It's fairly flexible.

    Eventually you'll want to get fancy and set up a home automation hub like SmartThings or HomeAssistant to let you bring in devices from multiple ecosystems (Hue, Arlo, etc) and create automation rules to run everything, but for now it sounds like you'd be happy with a few of the Hue accessories to make the lights easier to control. Good news is that Hue is designed to be user-friendly and all of the options I listed will let you do basic control pretty easily. When you outgrow that, you have more advanced options available to you.

    Hope it helps, and let us know if you have any specific questions about how to set stuff up.



u/Pharmy_Dude27 · 2 pointsr/Hydroponics

The kratky method is a great beginners method to get into hydroponics. I currently have about 30 plants all doing the kratky.

General Hydroponics is a good brand and mix of nutrients. Its simple to use and doesnt require a scale to mesure stuff out. Use a tablespoon to measure stuff or a syringe.

Buy the PH up/down from GH too but be warned you will need to dilute it first or youre in for a fun time trying to correct your PH. (let me know when you get to this step and I can give better directions.

Get a simple PH tester. It will make your life a lot easier. Once I figured out that adding nutrients to my water brought my PH to around 5.9 I stopped testing everytime. (but i recommend that you do use it everytime)

You DO NOT need to grow in soil first, but like /u/BroposkisRump said you can just be careful washing off the roots. GOTO the youtube channels mentioned on check out Khang Starr's video first.

Some advice:

  • Kratky is BEST for leafy plants like basil, lettuce, kale, etc.
    You cangrow those with no effort.

  • Make sure all containers are opaque to prevent algae growth.

  • Get seedlings and sprouts under a grow light to prevent stretching!!

  • If you live in anything but a hot climate you will want a grow tent to grow peppers over winter - And a grow light - Get a digital timer and give your plants around 16 hours of light (you can get cheaper ones but I am showing you what i bought)

  • Get 2 inch net pots and a 2 inch hole saw for your containers

  • A fan on your peppers will help make then thicker and stronger plants and may help polinate them. You can also shake your plant ( thats what I do)


    Thats all I got for now. Once you understand this method try hydroponics using a different method as well.

u/ItsTribeTimeNow · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Sure thing!

So I used a Raspberry Pi, but you could also use a virtual server or old desktop. The nice thing about the Pi is it is super cheap and uses very little energy since you have to leave it on all the time. It is far cheaper to buy the Pi than to use an old desktop that is sitting around. Use Z-Wave Plus (aka Gen5) devices, the older non-plus devices can't be upgraded and most do not support encryption.

So, things you'll need:

A Raspberry Pi: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/

A Z-wave plus controller (I went with the Aeotec Gen5 because it is well supported by the project): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00X0AWA6E/

A cheap Raspberry Pi case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J1BNANM/

Z-wave plus devices you want to control. For the outdoor lights I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/

A MicroSD card (At least 8GB, the higher the class the better, but you don't need to go overboard) : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007KFXIDO/

An old micro USB phone charger

A MicroSD card reader


So there are several ways to install Home Assistant (https://home-assistant.io). I started trying out trying their new Hass.io operating system and found it just wasn't as stable as I would have liked as of yet and documentation was lacking. I'm not knocking the OS, but personally I ended up installing it on top of Raspbian Lite. To install, you’ll want to head over here: https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/noobs/  and follow the instructions on copying the files to your MicroSD card. When you get to the point of installing an OS, choose Raspbian Lite.

After you get done installing head over here: https://home-assistant.io/docs/installation/raspberry-pi/ . This gives a pretty straightforward installation guide on how to install on Raspbian Lite. It helps to have some familiarity with POSIX-oriented operating systems.

From this point on you can branch out in many directions depending on what you want to do. Home Assistant is highly customizable. Read the docs and follow examples. There are forums if you get stuck and I’d be happy to answer any questions or give suggestions for whatever use case you might have.

Hope that helps :-)

u/racer_311 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Home assistant will interface with all sorts of products you can look at the Home Assistant website to see all things it interfaces with.

I will also say that this is the most active community and the fastest to incorporate new products. Over the last five months I have been tinkering with HA many new products have been incorporated.


As for the Iris Smart Plug it is a zigbee device that contains a Zwave radio. It will connect to your Zwave network and be an always on device (meaning that it will extend the reach of your mesh network) but you will not be able to control the on and off of the plug. I have two of them and they work great if you use something that has Zigbee radio.
If you are only going to utilize the Z-Stick you will want to use something like one of the following:

[Leviton VRPD3-1LW Vizia RF] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFF4RG4/ref=twister_B01JJKURQS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) I have this one for my Christmas tree

GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Controller

[GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Outdoor Module] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V8K3O/ref=twister_B017SOTBJG?_encoding=UTF8&th=1) I have a few of these outside

As for the GE Duplex outlet, I have one or two of them but I really like the design and functionality of the Leviton VRR15-1LZ Vizia RF + Split Duplex Receptacle better.

As for light bulbs, I own Hue, Link, Cree, and maybe one more. They are all Zigbee bulbs so I connect them to the Hue hub and let it interface with HA. They work fine for my uses but I really don't care about the colors. When Lifx put its bulbs on sale a few weeks ago I almost bought some of the BR30 but didn't because they don't interface with Home Kit. I really don't need them since the fixtures already have a zwave switch but I thought it would be nice to change colors if I wanted to. Also I have found that some of the Zigbee bulbs loose the connection with the hub if they are turned on and off from a switch. I was hoping the Lifx being wifi would not do that.

Would anyone be interested in some youtube videos explaining my setup and discussing my experiences with products?

u/gtg465x2 · 2 pointsr/smarthome

You just want to make sure whatever smart switches you buy support 3-way configurations. Lutron Caseta does this by using their Pico Remotes, which is nice because the Picos are cheaper and easier to install than a second smart switch, but look and function pretty much just like a wired switch. I believe Caseta also offers a more expensive smart switch that allows traditional 3-way wiring too if for whatever reason you didn't want to use the Pico remotes.

You can see what I'm talking about here: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1WB-WH-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer/dp/B07HM6L48C/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=3-0-VW5kZXIgJDc1&keywords=lutron+caseta&pd_rd_i=B07HM6L48C&pd_rd_r=e254cde8-dfaf-4a70-a266-ee71bfc5abbb&pd_rd_w=fdPji&pd_rd_wg=loQTX&pf_rd_p=be5d8dec-444e-4770-91df-1e16a8c46da8&pf_rd_r=MKNJAE82S81QNN0KACY0&qid=1564160301&s=gateway

The switch comes with a "remote kit" (the Pico), which when screwed in to a switch box looks just like the switch, and the remote pairs to the switch to control the same light seamlessly. Lutron provides very good instructions for their products too.

edit: This starter kit adds the required hub as well, and includes everything you would need for your stair lights. Some will scoff at hubs, but it's needed for Caseta because they use RF for wireless communication, and I think the hub is worth it for Caseta at least because it's probably the fastest responding, most reliable smart switches available. Hubless Wi-Fi switches will never be as reliable and consistent. https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B07G5V6M6G/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_pm?ac_md=4-1-QmV0d2VlbiAkNzUgYW5kICQxMDA%3D&keywords=lutron+caseta&pd_rd_i=B07G5V6M6G&pd_rd_r=e254cde8-dfaf-4a70-a266-ee71bfc5abbb&pd_rd_w=fdPji&pd_rd_wg=loQTX&pf_rd_p=be5d8dec-444e-4770-91df-1e16a8c46da8&pf_rd_r=MKNJAE82S81QNN0KACY0&qid=1564160301&s=gateway

u/himswim28 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Depending on the budget and what your wanting, but if you didn't know, their are many options for putting a module in the canopy of the fan, to be able to control dimming the lights, and fan speeds over a single wire. Even IR ones $101 smart fan
switch
. That I am pretty sure can be controlled by many smart hubs through IR modules. I don't think the lutron series that integrates directly over wifi supports the single wire to a canopy module to control the fan and the light.

If you truly just wanted a dumb wall switch that controls the light and fan, you can find those much cheaper than what I linked, and only need the single wire to control both (with the same canopy modules.)

u/wingsnut25 · 1 pointr/winkhub

I don't have one, but your post got me interested in looking, as I am currently getting ready to add some smart switches. The price of these are great, your adding a motion sensor for just a few dollars more then a normal smart switch.

Anyways back to your question, I found this review on the dimmer version of the switch

> So, it works. Well, stand alone it works fine. Wink does not fully support it. So you get a phantom sensor that you can't control in the app and you get two switches (both do the same thing) in the app. They are aware of the need to upgrade their app. The tech was surprised since they support the Zwave switch and dimmers from GE without a problem. I was too. So, it works, I am keeping it, but with Wink, it's a bit winky. I replaced a sensor and non-dimmer switch with this. I like it

u/BustedKnuckleGarage · 1 pointr/homeautomation

depending on your hub - I have smartthings
you should have several choices
you'll need to figure the max current draw of the fan or the HP
then install the appropriate switch

easiest would be the wall switch and some temp sensors, if it wil handle the load

I have the go control - originally for my old garage door (programmed as a momentary switch) - it will handle 20 amps and is cheap.

GE also has a 40 amp heavy zwave switch - for $150ish

with the smartthings hub you could program time on, time off , on for event, off for event , (event could be window opens , temp specified, etc) and then run time for specific period of time or if temp is satisfied with enough connected things you can control all kinds of things - fan included :)
good luck


direct load good for 20amps

GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1

https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YX3EFBFRGMTV783BT193

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BB38NVA9J8T5JFDE3QTJ

Incandescent - Minimum Load: 40W, Maximum Load: 960W
Motor – 1/2HP
Resistive – 1800W

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting and Appliance Control, 40 Amp, Large Load, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=twister_B017SOTBJG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

u/Philmatic84 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I did this exactly in my backyard. I threw one of the more expensive Caseta dimmers INSIDE a weatherproof box outside and hard wired my patio lights into the junction box. It could have just as easily been the cheaper dimmer or the regular 6A switch and not the dimmer and it would have worked just as well. I spent a little more on the more expensive dimmer because the load was so low with the patio lights (20w total) that I didn't want any flickering or weirdness. I hardwired only because I didn't NEED a dimmable outlet, but you could also just as easily put a receptacle after the dimmer/switch.

​

I say all that just to let you know what you are asking for is entirely doable, like cduff77 mentioned, just get the plug-in dimmer, tie off the wall switch so it's always on and replace it with a wall mounted pico pemote. The whole thing will run you about $75 but it is well worth it.

​

Lutron hit it out of the PARK with Caseta, it's the most reliable smart device I have, and I have a ton (Ring Doorbell, August Lock, Philip's Hue, EcoBee Thermostat). All they need is to come out with a multi-speed fan controller and a couple of smart outlets (Controllable with Picos, just like you want) and they will own the game.

u/kigmatzomat · 2 pointsr/homeautomation
  1. Correct. All controllers can pull that off however you should keep in mind some controllers (wink/smart things) lose some functionality when the internet (or their cloud) is down.

  2. Odds are you can do what you want but I'm not sure when you'd want to eliminate local control entirely.

  3. Wifi device support is pretty sketchy across the board. Assuming the pond pump is run off your house panel, you could just add a zwave switch where the wiring leaves your house. Or if you don't have space for a gang box switch, you could add these in your house: https://www.buydig.com/shop/product/AEONDSC27/Aeon-Labs-Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd-Edition-DSC27103-ZWUS

  4. I don't have wink, so can't say. I'd suggest comparing it to something like the RTS CT101 (aka Lowe's Iris) zwave thermostat. It works with a huge range of HVAC systems and is quite inexpensive.

  5. Any zwave switch will do, assuming you don't need a dimmer.
    The device you want is called a "scene controller" and there are actually lots of them. I think for your uses you might like this one:
    https://byjasco.com/products/ge-z-wave-wireless-keypad-controller

    or https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-WA00Z-1-Z-Wave-Scene-Controller-Switch/dp/B01BKWG9XS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499479563&sr=8-1&keywords=zwave+scene+controller+battery

    I have a couple of minimotes (https://www.buydig.com/shop/product.aspx?sku=E1AEONMINIMOTE ) in my house scattered around. The rechargeable batteries are generally good for ~2 months. I use a label maker to make the buttons purpose clear. My minimotes general have one button for thermostat up, another for thermostat down, and then two different lamp/lighting functions.
u/winston161984 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

The bulbs run into the issues you already have with your s\o. Always at some point someone will have those issues with the bulbs. Also when the bulb goes out you have to get an entire new smart bulb and sync that into your system. And outside of the more expensive brands are you sure the app is gonna be kept up to date for security? Or even have the cloud server still operating in 5 years so they even work? Having your own zwave or zigbee hub ensures that it will always work because your setup is not dependant on a server in "the cloud". The smart switches I am talking about actually replace your current in wall switches so they work the same and look the same. (Or close enough that it's not a noticeable difference.) Here is a basic on off switch that I have used. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VYCFXT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_nF5IDbWFE6V11
These kind of switches need a neutral wire in the box and need a hub (premade or diy like openhab) to become smart. If you don't have a neutral wire and can't run one you will need (sometimes more expensive) battery powered controllers that cover your current switch.
Here is one I use that actually switches the regular switch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K3TRG6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_tK5IDb8VDBB5H
There are also setup options that use a button that sits over your switch and you leave the switch on and the button controls smart bulbs but those can be harder to set up plus the cost of both smart switch and smart bulbs. There are zwave and zigbee bulbs for cases where a bulb is a better choice but most of the time switches are better.

u/Stevo2427 · 4 pointsr/homeassistant

Lutron Caseta Dimmer does not use a Neutral. On sale today as well.
Amazon Link

The consumer Smart Bridge works with Home Assistant after you use a couple Python scripts to get some key values and cert files.https://www.home-assistant.io/components/lutron_caseta/

I have 2 of the Caseta switches, a bunch of Hue Bulbs, and Leviton Z-Wave in wall dimmers. I like them all honestly and haven't had any problems so far.

I think the Hue Bulbs produce the widest range of dim light. I have "dimmable" LED bulbs where I have the in-wall smart switches installed and the lowest dim level is still pretty bright compared to the dimmest setting on a hue bulb. To get better dimming you have to buy the better LED bulbs which can run $9 plus depending on what you get, in which case you're approaching Hue Bulb pricing.

u/ekzoo85 · 1 pointr/SmartThings

I personally have used both the Leviton smart plug, but have come to actually like the Inovelli one as you can control both sides = more Christmas lights :)

As for outdoor, GE seems to be the only one out there now, but supposedly per Inovelli's Facebook page, they are coming out with one soon.

Here's the link to both the Leviton one I've used as well as the Inovelli one (indoor):

Leviton - https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Decora-Appliance-Module-Z-Wave/dp/B00LEWQYC6

Inovelli - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K6J1Y1I

Outdoor:
GE - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Outdoor/dp/B0013V8K3O

Inovelli - https://www.facebook.com/inovelliUSA/photos/a.1899373336993353.1073741829.1702973266633362/1899528456977841/?type=3&theater

As for setting the sunset/sunrise -- that can be done via the Smart Lights SmartApp within the ST app (Marketplace > SmartApps > SmartThings Recommends > Smart Lights)

Lastly, as for the space heater -- I would advise against that as if the plug doesn't turn off or it tips over, it could cause a fire :/ -- but if you really want to, just check the Maximum Rating on various smart plugs and make sure your space heater does not exceed it.

u/SirEDCaLot · 2 pointsr/smarthome

A lot of this depends on how the fan and lights are wired.

In general, there should be two circuits in the fan- one for the fan motor, one for the lights. That means two pull chains since you say you use chains.

Complicating this is the fact that you have one and only one on-off switch, which probably kills power to the whole fan fixture.

If this were me, I'd hardwire the switch so that it ALWAYS supplies power. Or just cover the switch with something like this.

Then I'd get two Micro Switches or equivalent, and put them above the fan. One controls the fan motor circuit, the other controls the lighting circuit.

I'd then replace the pull chains with momentary pull chain switches and wire those into the micro switches to activate them.

End result of this- fan and light have working local control with the pull chains. The switch location has an on/off button that you program to turn on fan or light or both. And both are addressable in Google Home.

Also note- the products I linked are Z-Wave. To make them work with Google Home you'll need a hub to sit between Google Home and Z-Wave. Vera is a good choice, SmartThings works too.

You could get WiFi products instead- Here's a micro switch and while I couldn't find a switch cover plate like the Z-Wave one, there are a lot of WiFi light switches you could hardwire in as long as you have a neutral wire in the light switch box. Just wire hot to load (so the fan is always powered) and connect the switch to neutral and hot (so the switch gets power). Thus switch isn't actually switching anything, just sending a WiFi signal for Google Home to react to and turn on fan / light / etc.
While WiFi products don't require a hub, it does mean if you ever reset your WiFi password you'll have to dismantle your ceiling fan.

u/unreasonablymundane · 3 pointsr/smarthome

Virtually all smart switches require a neutral (typically a white wire). Some dimmers only require 3 connections (live, load, and ground).

Smart bulbs are the easiest solution, but the most expensive (and annoying) in the long term (if the switch is off you can't control the light from other devices)

For using smart switches running an additional wire from the switch box to the neutral bus in the breaker box is an option but is usually the most labor intensive option. For other options you need to identify how the switches were wired. There are 3 common ways:

  1. Best case: there are 2 sets of wires in the switch box, and 1 set of wires in the load box. This requires no new wiring you can simply install the smart switch
  2. This are 2 black wires in the switch box (and possibly ground wire(s)), and 1 set of wires in the load box. In this case the builder likely cut the black wire and ran it into the box and the neutral is uncut behind the switch box. In this case you can remove the box cut the remaining wires and run all the wires into the box.
  3. There is 1 full set of wires (black, white, and ground) in the switch box and 2 sets of wires in the load box, there are 2 options here, 1. rerun the wires between the switch and load boxes with 3 conductor wire (black, red, white, and ground) black as live, red as load, white as neutral, or 2. use a micro switch like: https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4/ in the load box.

    Hopefully that helps.
u/alienblueaccoun · 3 pointsr/amazonecho

The Lutron Caseta switches don't require a neutral. They are Alexa, Harmony Hub, and Apple HomeKit compatible. They also work with IFTTT. They do have their own hub but they are rock solid. They are by far the most reliable bit of smart home tech that I have (even more so than Hue). Pricey but worth it. They are more buttons than switches but I like the way they look.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MXCRAX8/ref=psdcma_507840_t1_B00JJY0S4G#

The standard dimmer includes a remote that can easily replace a three-way switch. They are super versatile (LED, CFL, or incandescent) and work with Lutrons really expensive blinds if you have that kind of money :)

u/mareksoon · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Do you mean a normal side and a dimmer side, for two separate lights/loads, in a single gang? No, I don't.

If you mean a smart switch for a single load, with separate normal and dimming actions, Lutron Caseta has four buttons (on/off with dim up/down in the middle). Those are quite popular, mainly due to their ability to work without requiring a neutral in the electrical box, plus the flexibility of their Pico remote that pairs with them, allowing 3-or-more-way switches, even in places that aren't wired, but won't work directly with Alexa without picking up a Lutron Caseta hub.

Switch/Pico kit
Switch/Pico/hub kit
Pro hub (if needed, for example, with a solution like Hubitat)

GE makes Decora-style paddles that are tap top on, tap bottom off, and hold top/bottom for dimming; they're Zwave and work with Alexa ... if you have the 2.0 with smart home hub. They need a neutral, however.

GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer Switch (also Zwave Plus and Zigbee options)

GE and Lutron also make ceiling fan controls that match their light switch products.

u/fbanerd · 2 pointsr/arduino

The cheapest and easiest way you can do it is probably by not using an arduino (especially if you value your time!). If you are in it for the fun of the build, go for it, but I have a recommendation if you just want to water your plants.



I grew indoor plants for several years at medium scale (60 plants, 20,000 watts), and now grow commercially for the recreational market in OR.



Start with a short cycle timer like this:


https://www.amazon.com/Multifunctional-Infinite-Programmable-Appliances-Energy-saving/dp/B01G6O28NA



and a pond pump like this (get whatever size you need, generally 100gph per 5 gal of medium/soil is more than enough for very thirsty plants - so this one would water 5-6 large plants in 5 gallon pots):


https://www.amazon.com/KEDSUM-Submersible-Aquarium-Powerhead-Hydroponic/dp/B017R708QO/



Then use a Rubbermaid Brute (commercial) trash can as a reservoir (they come in sizes from 10gal-50gal depending on your needs). They are a bit more expensive, but cheaper than flooding your house or apartment:


I use these: https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-Recycler-Rollout-Hinged/dp/B0007845JC/


and these: https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-FG263256GRAY-Plastic-32-gallon/dp/B005KDAQ3I/



You can likely find the trash cans cheaper at a big-box hardware store. they are generally $1/gallon.



let me know if you have any questions and id be happy to help!

u/niceflipflop · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

What you're describing is exactly how these fans this switch is designed to work out of the box.

While your house has two hots running from the switches to the ceiling (for manually controlling what is essentially two devices), the remote receiver box in the fan is only capable of accepting one hot leg. Then it switches power to both the fan and lights depending on what you do with the remote.

The easiest thing to do would be to replace the switch with a model that allows for both manual and remote operation. I'm sure Lutron or Leviton, etc. make units that would suit you.

EDIT: Realizing that you might have bought an aftermarket remote for a standard fan. But the answer is the same. I'm assuming you installed the receiver by giving it a single hot wire, not two. So magic aside, the switch that is no longer connected to anything isn't going to work. Now, the switch on your wall is simply for giving the receiver power, and it in turn powers both the light and fan, based on your commands.

EDIT 2: Finally had a moment to look on Amazon. This is what you'd want.

u/mrimperfect · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I love a good Home Depot run as much as the next, but also, make sure you aren't getting price-gouged: on Amazon. And you are very welcome. I like to help.

u/sadkins1981 · 1 pointr/DIY

Nice job, looks great!

I made one too, but I used one of these to modulate the speed.

the pulse width modulation dimmer is a lot easier on the fan motor and uses less power (and it's dirt cheap). You can rip the insides out of the box, it's a pretty small board inside.

Also, old hard drive magnets are great for stir plates.

u/MableXeno · 5 pointsr/Parenting

The problem is that your husband works 60 hours a week, so you are expected to be the parent the 60 hours he is unavailable, while doing the whole "emotional labor" for everyone in the house (like having to even bring up the fact that you need a service to clean - that should have been obvious).

This pace will not be able to be kept up.

When I had a hectic schedule I would do crockpot freezer meals...You have to prep a bunch, which will easily take up one of your days off (shopping one day, prepping the next, b/c it's really too much to do on one day). But what I usually did was planned about 20-30 crockpot meals that I could put in the crockpot and put it on a timer so it would turn itself off and on (couldn't just do this with the machine - maybe you can now...but my machine had a timer that let me start it hours after I left, but then it just went into "warm" mode after- which was still too hot and left the meal unappealing and kind of like mush, so I used a light timer to automatically shut off my machine. It was still warm when it was time to eat. I would use bag salad, frozen bread/canned biscuits, frozen veggies as sides...b/c they were all quick and tended to be ready in under 15 minutes.

It sounds like you're not home for meals for a few of the days, though. So even this may not be an option. Is your husband home during this time and HE could do things that a normal adult does at mealtime?

This isn't a sustainable existence unless you have A LOT more help - like a nanny taking care of the kids and also doing the shopping, and a few general chores so on your days off you aren't running around like a mad person.

u/geekofweek · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I have all of my outdoor lighting automated.

  • Front Porch
  • Back Door
  • Back Deck
  • Detached Garage Light
  • Low Voltage Outdoor lighting

    In combination with a few other devices, door sensors, ring door bell for motion, garage door automation (MyQ) etc. I can setup a multitude of different scenarios. Open the front door, lights go full brightness, close door dim them back down. Motion from the ring at night, crank the brightness up. Open the garage door, turn on the light above the garage to full brightness. Most of the lights turn on about 15 mins before sunset with some nice transitions in brightness.

    I use GE Z-Wave Outdoor Modules that I plug into the low voltage transformers that are always set to the on position. That way I can just toggle the switch on thus turning on the transformer and the lights.


    In most of the outdoor fixtures I use Smart Bulbs (the lights that are shielded from the elements). My front porch I use Hue Color that I automated for holiday lights. I have a detached garage that I
    put in a Lutron Caseta dimmer since the switch was in the house.


    Essentially I used a variety of devices to tackle each lighting situation based on what would work best and then automate everything with Home Assistant. You can see all my devices and automations here.
u/TurtleTreeJumper · 4 pointsr/cowboys

For sure, but for someone to be as good as he is at coaching the defense, I personally think he has to understand a lot about offense, that is just some random guy on the internets gut feeling though. Plus smart coaches/leaders tend to surround themselves with people smarter then them in things they lack depth in. Personally I would love someone with his intensity leading the whole team instead of the guy that invested in The Clapper

u/Series_of_Accidents · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

Sure thing! You only need to buy one thing, a Hue starter set. I would also recommend the dimmer switch so you can operate the lights easily without using the app. Then you just download the Hue app, follow the directions and get started. I personally suggest the old Hue app over the new one. I think it's this one, but I'm not 100% sure. The reason why the old app is better is because you can set the fade duration to any whole minute level. The new app does it only in increments of 5 minutes. While the new app might look snazzier, it just didn't do what I needed. And that's it! Just play around with different schedules.

My setup is two lights, one on each nightstand. They fade up to full brightness at 6:30, automatically turn off at 8. Then they automatically turn on at 8PM and fade down over 10 minutes starting at 9:20. It's my cue that bedtime is coming. I'm basically creating my own night-day cycle.

u/Joestac · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

Assume you mean THIS and not THIS?

It looks like if you do mean the first one, that is kinda pointless with Alexa. You can create your own scenes and just activate them via voice, not sure why you'd want to press a button to do it.

But, to your question, it looks like you don't need the hub with the Echo Plus

"Echo Plus is a simple way to start your smart home. It has a built-in ZigBee smart home hub, which allows for simple and direct setup of compatible ZigBee lights, locks, plugs, and in-wall switches from brands like Philips Hue, GE, and Yale. No additional hub required."

Edit: Now I am curious by what they mean by "in-wall switches", maybe just plain smart lights still need a hub.

u/Excido88 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

If you want a remote, get a Lutron 2-in-1 fan/light dimmer combo with remote (~$90). It will work with any fan that has separate wires for fan and light (which is nearly any fan without the remote).

What's nice is the Lutron controller has a canopy module that installs above the fan and is controlled by the wallbox unit with only a 2-wire connection, so no extra wiring if you're replacing a light fixture with a fan.

EDIT: Here's the Amazon link, though you may be able to find a better price. I recall paying $90, it's now $98. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017O71MI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Qcaevb0Y38EDH

u/cloudsurfr · 1 pointr/reloading

You can use a simple on/off switch like this:
www.amazon.com/HitLights-Light-Inline-Toggle-Switch/dp/B006U5JWQW
(advantage - barrel plugs to make it easy, but you can also splice/solder).

I knew it would be bright, so i put mine on a small rotary dimmer like this:
www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-LED-Strip-Lights-Controller/dp/B003L4KKF2
BUT - i never dim it. It's hard to have too much light. Just make sure that all of the LEDs are basically pointing away from you under the press. They can be too bright if pointed at your eyes when checking your case fill.

u/basicbatch · 4 pointsr/HotPeppers

Also in NJ and growing indoors for transplanting. A cheap and effective option (what i'm using) is to get a shop light from lowes/home depot and put in one T8 cool white and one T8 warm light bulb. You want one bulb from each end of the spectrum. Once your seeds are sprouting keep the lights 2 inches from the top of the plant for about 14-16 hours a day (helpful to use a outlet timer, get one on amazon). I also have a fan going for the same time to prevent mold on top of soil and also make the stems stronger

Here's what i'm using, cost about $30:

u/DoctrVendetta · 1 pointr/Trucks

Well you say you warm the engine up for 10mins, but that's only the engine, your trans will still be 90% cold (all but little bit of conductive heat from the engine). Do you happen to have a garage? You could get a transmission pan heater (might as well get an oil pan heater too) then you can just set one of those wall timer things, just wire them up so the cords are on the driver's side, and hopefully you have an outlet on the driver's side, then you can just plug them in when you get home and unplug them before you leave. I'd set the timer 2 hours before you leave, and then you could start your truck like 5 minutes before you leave (just so the oil has enough time to go through everything, but the block should be warm anyways, just an extra safety measure i guess). I'd highly recommend doing it.

Heater

Mechanical Timer

u/Jarvicious · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I'm not too familiar with 0-10v systems so I read up a bit. It appears that you do need a low voltage traveler wire to feed all the way to the switch. I don't believe the one I linked will work as your fixtures are still designed to work on 120vAC and that PWM dimmer is low voltage DC only.

Is this in your home or a garage i.e. - does it need to be aesthetically pleasing? My shop lights are simply plugged in to a standard two outlet receptacle. You could cut in a 4 outlet receptacle and wire one of the dimmer switches next to the main outlet at the beginning of the circuit. The switch on the wall would then control the power going to that switch, but you'd be able to set the level of brightness and then not touch it.

Another option (and I don't know if this is feasible or even code compliant) is to use the neutral wire as the control wire. The specs on that Lutron state that no neutral wire is required for operation. Just so long as you labeled it properly (similar to how the neutral can be used as load in certain situations) I don't see why you couldn't run it from your lights to the switch as the 10v control wire. I only know enough about this to be dangerous though so I'm sure someone will downvote or correct as necessary. Please don't do this without confirmation from the manufacturer/electrician.

Edit: I think this controller from Lutron might be just the ticket. Per the manual you can control it with any number of their Pico switches and it does all of the dimming wirelessly via RF. You can also connect it to a wall switch, a handheld switch, etc., and even control it via the Amazon Echo if you want. Just did a little extra reading though and apparently you need their hub to control the wireless connection. Once you have that, though, you can add any number of switches (I think to an extent) to any number of circuits and even integrate your lights with Smartthings, Vera, HomeSeer, or one of the supported automation hubs. Granted, you're looking at $100 for the hub/switch starter kit and another $80 for the 0-10v, but your'e also eliminating the hassle of wiring (aside from wiring the control wire from the ballast to the Lutron controller) and setting yourself up for automation, if that's something you're into. We have our under cabinet lights and a couple other things hooked to a SmartThings hub and the Echo and it's pretty convenient.

u/FizixPhun · 2 pointsr/succulents

I have posted Amazon links to what I use below. You should be able to do under $20 for just 5 plants. I haven't used these long but my plants seem like they are pretty happy with it so far.

The lamp.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHQ94C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The bulb.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P29K1S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Optional Timer.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LYHED0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/CabiriSayStrike · 3 pointsr/MushroomGrowers

I would change the Can Fan cycle 30 min on/off, as it is probably getting it really dry in there literally half the day. Buy a cycle timer like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G6O28NA and set it to something more like 2min on 18min off. 300 cubic feet of air change every 20 min is more than enough. This will also let the humidity catch up in your room.

Edit: Also, nice set up. Thank you for posting. Didn't mean to be all business. HA!

u/phpdevster · 2 pointsr/telescopes

I found this tutorial to be really helpful

https://www.blackwaterskies.co.uk/2013/05/making-your-own-nichrome-dew-heater-bands/

And if you don't know your electrical engineering formulas, this is a god send:

http://www.sengpielaudio.com/FormulaWheelElectronics.gif

For a PWM controller to regulate the heat, something like this would be good:

https://www.amazon.com/Leegoal-LEDwholesalers-Lights-Dimming-Controller/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1549856638&sr=8-7&keywords=pwm+controller+12v

That can handle up to 8 amps, which should be sufficient for a dew heater.

A good place to buy various electrical components (in the US) is https://www.digikey.com/ (you'll find components like that PWM controller and others on it as well). Can be a bit hard to navigate, but has a very powerful search feature.

If you can insulate the dew heater strip, it will let you use less power since the heat is used more efficiently.

u/ayimera · 1 pointr/reptiles

I don't like the analog timers because they make clicky noises. I've also been through A LOT of various timers on Amazon because I own 2 auto cat feeders along with my multitude of reptile lights. I will break down my experience for you:

Enover TS18 Digital Timer -- I needed this for my triple-prong power strip and it worked for a couple months but then started turning the "random" feature on by itself and wouldn't turn off in the evening. Junked.

Westek TE08WHB Timer Strip -- I really like this one and I still use it for a couple of my cages. I like that 4 are timed and 4 are always on. NOTE though that when the power goes out this does NOT keep the time and will reset, which is very annoying.

WenTop Digital Timer -- I used this one for my single cat feeder for awhile, but it eventually stopped working for some reason. I never figured out why but it stopped turning anything on. Junked.

Century Digital Timer -- I bought a second feeder and needed a timer that had 2 outlets. This one has worked well so far, but you may just need a single outlet.

Woods 50006WD Analog Timer -- I still use these when my digital timers break lol. Honestly, they're really reliable, they just make that clicky sound that drives me nuts. But it's a great deal if you're just looking for something that works with no frills.

Nearpow Digital Timer -- My most recent purchase. I've only been using it for a few weeks but has been working fine. It has a bunch of settings, I have no idea what all of them do, I just need it to turn the lights off and on lol.

u/ConanTheBallbearing · 5 pointsr/HomeKit

Here’s a set of two dimmer switches, hub and remotes. No neutral wire required for these so couldn’t be easier to fit

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG2W-Assistant/dp/B01M3XJUAD/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1535840828&sr=1-7&keywords=lutron+caseta

And here’s just the hub and a basic switch. You do need a neutral for the switch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPW67ZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017LRCG38/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It’s not cheap to get started for sure (mainly due to that bridge) but Caseta, apart from HomeBridge, has been my most solid HomeKit device. The bridge never requires a restart in my experience. I honestly wish I hadn’t invested so much in Hue before I used this.

u/papermatthew · 6 pointsr/drums

Yeah I got the warm white versions cause I wanted them less blue looking.

For dimmer this is what I got: http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Dimming-Controller-LED-Lights/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381518684&sr=1-1&keywords=led+dimmer

You're also going to need a power supply. I got this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Power-Suppply-Driver-Transformer/dp/B0034GUEY4/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

However, I wired all my wires by hand. They do have jacks on them though as well.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ledwholesalers-Inline-Dimmer-LED-Strips/dp/B004T9ITQ0/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1381518743&sr=1-4&keywords=led+dimmer

And then you can use a generic laptop type power adapter as long as the wattage is correct. I plan on revamping my setup at some point to make it easier to setup.

u/mikew99x · 1 pointr/amazonecho

I've been using Lutron Caseta light switches+hub with Alexa for the past few years. These are expensive but of very high quality. I believe the Lutron Smart Bridge is required to connect to Alexa; you can get the starter kit from Amazon, but prices tend to be better on eBay.

There is a healthy discussion of this and other options in the homeautomation reddit, so that's worth checking out if you go down this road.

u/moffman3005 · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

The switch I'm installing tonight/tomorrow is just a GE Z-wave switch, one of these. The fan that I have operates on standard 110 power, it's almost exactly one of these

Installing it last weekend was a lot of work, so I haven't ran a real switch to it yet. I cheated and wired it up to an extension cord, and plugged that in to a wifi outlet. I just wanted to see it in action and ran out of time before mother's day plans happened.

So no existing timer switch yet. If I wasn't doing a z-wave switch, I'd be installing a timer switch like you have. That's what my neighbor has and he says it works great. I'll use a timer component to set this up so that it turns off automatically after a period as well.

EDIT: Also, thanks for making me think about automatic "shut off" conditions! Auto shut off is a great idea.

u/gurase · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

How set are you on the GE switch? Lutron Caseta seems like the perfect solution for this situation. The starter kit comes with wired dimmer switch and a separate remote that can be wall mounted. I use it for the recessed lights in my living room and it's been great so far. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QjPMxbYPD5823

u/die_2_self · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

In the process of building a new home but here is what we are doing for most of the switches.

Most lights will be on GE motion zwave dimmer. Plan to use the motion as part of home alarm system as well as other triggers.

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Lighting Control Motion Sensor Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Vacancy/Occupancy Sensor, 26933
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y38FX5

Lights in multi gang boxes that already have a motion zwave will get the Homeseer 200 smart switch. The fans will be controlled by the Homeseer 200 fan switches. I plan to take advantage of their multi tap features to control other switches or automations and the leds to indicate current situations.

HomeSeer HS-WD200+ Z-Wave Plus Scene-Capable Wall Dimmer Switch w/RGB LED indicators
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079F38TPF

https://shop.homeseer.com/products/homeseer-hs-fc200-z-wave-plus-fan-controller

From my research these are the best/ most versatile zwave switches you can get.


I’d avoid smart bulbs for reasons mentioned already. I’d want everything to work without smarts if needed.

u/ctruit01 · 3 pointsr/smarthome

Here's an option to consider. If you go with a SmartThings hub and compatible devices including this switch that covers the existing physical switch, it's entirely possible to have a physical switch that refuses to turn lights on after it is pressed during the night while allowing it during the day (providing your WiFi lights work with SmartThings - the list is here). It will take some advanced programming using webCORE (the super powerful web-based SmartThings automation system) but it sounds like it would be incredibly useful for your particular situation.

u/pheen · 2 pointsr/DIY

I guess you could call it DIY, but it was pretty easy. I bought the components from Amazon:

  • 5 meter strip of "warm" led lights
  • 120 to 12V 30 Watt power supply/transformer
  • PWM Dimmer

    The transformer plugs into the wall and then into the dimmer (I extended the wires using 12v wire I had on hand and butt contectors) then 2 wires out of the dimmer into the strip of lights. The light strip comes with a standard looking DC connector, which I removed and just hard wired it. I also used the entire strip, but it can be cut every two inches at certain points. If you choose to cut the strip, you will need to solder the wires onto the strip. Since I used the entire strip I just used the included wire (after removing the DC connector thing)
u/adragontattoo · 1 pointr/DIY

To give an example of what I would personally use.

LEDs (I would purchase 2 reels (10m total)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ST2I9O/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1#productDetails

Dimmer (2 of these, 1 per reel)
http://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-LED-Strip-Lights-Controller/dp/B003L4KKF2/ref=pd_sim_hi_bsb_12?ie=UTF8&refRID=024VHCH0KYFFJDQAM9QV

powered by this (only need the 1 but you can buy 2 if you'd prefer)
http://www.amazon.com/MEANWELL-HitLights-Listed-Adapter-Warranty/dp/B008K4UKLW/ref=sr_1_51?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1397563708&sr=1-51

Mount as much of the strip(s) as possible on U-channel or similar to minimize heat issues (the U channel will act as heat sink with a bit of "work") sideways outside of the square/rectangle lightbox. This will minimize the 0 0 0 0 0 0 lighting effect.

If you can build the desk enough to test you can see if 1 row around the perimeter will work, or 2 or 4... You can use the dimmer(s) to adjust the brightness as needed.

If you still need/want MORE lighting or want to have a separate smaller section that is always on at 100%, you can put some strips in rows across the "bottom" of the lightbox facing directly up.

I pretty much did this on my magnifier lamp. I have about ~.3 meter of the above linked LEDs running constantly at 100% for basic task lighting and a "night light" and ~2-3meter inside periphery of the reflector. I also used some to replace a picture lamp (it needs to be dropped by 50% though, it is too bright) and I am working on figuring out 2 more "ideas" now.

Rough math is rough but I figure it is approximately a 10% and 100% split. I am not using a dimmer on my setup though so I just try to not stare at the light for too long.

u/chasonreddit · 1 pointr/googlehome

I think something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSC18103-ZWUS-White-AL001/dp/B008VWAPU4

would work for you. You can keep your existing switches even. This is assuming you have enough room behind the existing switch in the gang box. You'll need a hub like a smart things, but previous comments seem to show you are alright with that.

Personally, I love the idea of the old style edison bulbs and fixtures. This would allow you to do it with no visible changes at all.

u/Brickmantis · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Thanks guys, great ideas. I may just end up keeping it on or buy something like this:

GE Wall-Switch Light Control Remote with 1 Outlet Receiver, Wireless, White, 18279 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R7Q7PT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_84szybSEGFAY6

And put the switch under my desk or something and power it on remotely when I want to play.

u/Vlad_the_Homeowner · 2 pointsr/SmartThings

>Is it detecting movement during those 10 minutes? If not your sensor may be misplaced, or faulty, or the signal may not be making it to your hub (interference, distance, etc.)

Definitely start there. If it's not that, then I'm wondering if the system is restarting every time it detects motion.As in, the timer keeps getting reset to 10 mins whenever it detects motion. It sounds like it isn't, so it times out after 10 mins, then the system registers it at off and then it looks for motion detection.

If you (OP) continue to have trouble you could try installing one of these. Not the cheapest, but it's a motion detector switch and smart switch in one. So the kitchen light could be controlled entirely motion detector switch (not the smart element which requires going through your hub). But you have the option of using its status through the smart system as needed. I have one in my entry way and it triggers numerous routines in addition to just lighting up the entryway any time someone goes through.

u/blitzpa9 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Probably the best $40 home improvement I've made so far! I have a Lutron Maestro LED Dimmer switch with motion sensor on my kitchen lights. It senses when I enter my main doors so if my hands are full of groceries the lights come on automatically. I frequently enter and exit my kitchen area and it feels great to not have to walk to where the switch is located every time. YMMV. You can program the dimmer level, sensitivity, and timer settings depending on the room. It always works like a normal switch so no loss in functionality. It's 100% reliable even my dog trips the sensor. I've had a great experience with the 1 Lutron I have. I just picked up a Lutron Smart Lighting kit but I have a feeling the dumb occupancy sensor is going to end up better overall at 1/2 the cost.

u/ReelFunkedUp · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

Just a heads up, most ceiling fans use RF instead of IR. It's really a pain to get Harmony to talk to RF ( I looked this up like 2 days ago). If your fan is controlled by a switch, you can just replace the switch. Otherwise, you can probably install this plus the harmony hub.

Best of luck to you!

u/TheBithShuffle · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I got this thing to convert my mundane fan into a remote control. Useful if you find a style you like that doesn’t have a remote.

It requires 4 wires though instead of the normal 3 if you want fan and light control.

Lutron Maestro IR Fan Control and Light Dimmer for Incandescent and Halogen Bulbs, with IR Remote Control and Wallplate, Single-Pole or Multi-Location, MIR-LFQMT-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017O71MI

u/gargross · 1 pointr/homeautomation

To close the loop here, I did end up buying https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dt2.Bb22CPRK7 and it was super easy to setup and seems to be working fine. Thanks for all the advice and debate

u/forgottenpassword778 · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Not the original commenter, but I'm currently using a combination of smart switch/remote thing and smart bulbs. Admittedly not a typical use case, but I have a couple switches that control multiple fixtures.

For example I have a switch that powers both a fixture on my three season porch, and my outside patio light. One of these and two smart bulbs allows me to control them independently.

u/SkyJedi · 1 pointr/SmartThings

One problem I had with smart outlets is that one one of the plugs is controlled by the switch, the other is just on 100% of the time.

In my use case, paranoia over leaving the hair curler plugged in, that down fall was two much. Sure I could see the outlet was off but I had no idea if the device was plugged into the right outlet.

My solution was this little guy
Aeon Labs DSC18103-ZWUS,White,US,AL001 Aeotec Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch, 2nd Edition, White, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fBzqybV7TXXRH

Fits behind the standard outlet and turns the entire thing into a switch.

I'm also thinking this might be a good thing to add to a couple more outlets for Christmas lights

u/justabigphony · 1 pointr/smarthome

> but you don't cover them with Z-wave buttons, you cover them with a regular combination light switch

I meant something like this to go over the actual switch. Then I leave the real light switches on at all times, and use the z-wave buttons or Home Assistant to control the relay.

Good point on room in the box, too. I'll definitely need to check that out before I buy it

u/phil_g · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.

I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.

One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.

u/FledglingZombie · 2 pointsr/smarthome

That depends on what sort of hub you have. I used and really like these, so if you have smartthings or another z-wave compatible hub I'd recommend these.

They also come with good enough instructions that someone like me who has never worked with electricity understood what I was doing.

On-off

Dimmer

u/ruthgrace · 1 pointr/SpaceBuckets

Are you in the USA? if so I've had pretty good luck with these cheap timers off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LYHED0/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1499851115&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=timers+for+electrical+outlets&dpPl=1&dpID=410-DNaFBZL&ref=plSrch

The caveat is that some of them start making a faint clicking/buzzing noise after a while so if you're keeping it in your bedroom i wouldn't recommend it. Also they don't have a ground.

u/Kv603 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

The old Insteon ToggleLinc switches look sort of like the traditional up/down switches. But of course these require an Insteon-compatible hub. Looks like GE makes an equivalent "Z-Wave Plus In-Wall Smart Lighting Control Smart Toggle Switch"

I use toggles where I have wallpapered switchplates with the small opening and don't want to replace the switchplate.

With HA toggle switches, the toggle always sits in a middle position (neither up nor down) and returns to that position after you flick it up or down manually. This means it will look a little out of place in a gang box if some are traditional toggles and others are "smart" toggles. When I have it in a single-gang by itself, most of my guests don't even notice the difference.

u/bealan · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

Put in any light fixture and bulbs you want and use a Lutron Caseta in wall dimmer switch. First light switch is about 100 bucks,

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-BDG-PKG1W-Caseta-Wireless-Selected/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958038&sr=1-3&keywords=lutron+caseta

This includes the Smart hub needed to make it internet accessible.
Each additional switch thereafter is around 50$.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-150-Watt/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_2?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-2&keywords=lutron+caseta

You can also purchase them with remotes for $60

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-1&keywords=lutron+caseta

and you can purchase plug in versions that allow you to control standard lamps and such ($60)

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-300-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1482958148&sr=1-7&keywords=lutron+caseta

Lutron Caseta is not only compatible with alexa, ("alexa turn my living room to 50%" "alexa turn off my bed room" "alexa turn my living room to 10%" etc.) it is also fully homekit enabled. ("Hey siri, set my chamber to 2%" ) and utilizing the home app on your iDevice, you can set up schedules and such, for example my bedroom light turns on to 10% 30min before my alarm, and up to 50% 5 minutes before my alarm. This really helps me wake up on time.

Lutron caseta work great. worth the money

u/boostnma · 1 pointr/amazonecho

You can use the Lutron Caseta for 3 way switches or more. Install the full Lutron Caseta switch in one box, and use remotes for the other boxes. You can put another switch anywhere, even if there isn't wiring there.

Lutron Caseta Wireless In-Wall Dimmer, 600/150-Watt, Single Pole, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BazDyb4YRKZ8B

Remote with wall bracket
Lutron PJ2-WALL-WH-L01 Pico Remote Control with Wall Mounting Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JR202JQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ObzDybQ8C594T

You need the hub as well

Hub, 1 switch, and 1 remote
Lutron P-BDG-PKG1W Caseta Wireless Dimmer Kit with Smart Bridge for Amazon Alexa and Selected Models, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kdzDybXVZ4ZGM

They sell the wall brackets seperate as well
Lutron PICO-WBX-ADAPT Pico Wallplate Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nfzDybQX74B01

Basically you can get a 2way solution for $100, and add a 3rd switch for $20

u/asdfasdafas · 1 pointr/homeautomation

> See, I didn't even know that was a thing. Glad I opened this thread already. So much to research.
>
> Thanks.

No prob man, and they really do work amazingly. Here's an amazon link for the z-wave plus outlets:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07361JZ2H/

Here's the link for the switches and add-on switches. They come in either paddle or toggle style, and in a couple colors. You can also get switches that support dimming if that's your thing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGOHM/

If it's a 3-way, the functionality of the add-on will match that of the other switch. So if it's a dimmer on the main side, the add-on has that as well.

u/Ltcommander83 · 1 pointr/HVAC

I think something like this would work:
GE Z-Wave Plus Direct Wire 40 Amp Smart Switch, Indoor/Outdoor, 120-277V Lighting Appliance Control, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required-Works with SmartThings, Wink, and Alexa, 14285, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Y.E9BbGX2TS07

It's just on/off, no temp control. But I don't see why you would want to change the temp remotely, as most water heaters are set it and forget it . But at least with this outlet hub you can definitely turn on and off to save some energy.

u/spazzydee · 2 pointsr/ElectricalEngineering

I think you might have the most flexibility with getting a smart light switch that status can be read from and a smart outlet that can be remote controlled. Then write the code to make it do the thing. It might be hard to get it to be instantaneous?

The cheap way is to buy this and stick the wall switch next to the existing one, making turning the far light less of a hassle.

The last option is to call an electrician, which will give you more robust options.

u/jestew · 9 pointsr/futurama

The Clapper, Wireless Sound Activated On/Off Light Switch, Clap Detection, Perfect For Kitchen/Bedroom/TV/Appliances, 120 V Wall Plug, Smart Home Technology, As Seen On TV Household Gift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-eFXBbZYAAW3J

u/jevdokimoff · 1 pointr/homeautomation

If there is a neutral wire, you could do something like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071Y38FX5/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_zjRKDb61JDERY

Can do all the same features locally or be added to your smart home system for more features. I've got one and it works great.

u/BreakfastBeerz · 1 pointr/smarthome

I've got the exact same switch.... Having done the same research as you, the simple answer is, there isn't a device that will duplicate that.

The closest solution I have come up with is to put 2 of these in the ceiling fan https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482251383&sr=8-1&keywords=z+wave+micro+switch. One to control the light and one to control the fan. Unfortunatly, you will lose control of the switch (other than on/off) at the physical switch itself. You would be able to both the light and fan on/off, but not just the light or the fan, you would need to use a smart device to do that.

u/streetwise_hercules · 1 pointr/googlehome

I appreciate your input!

Using a smartphone or tablet would be a sufficient alternative in many circumstances. The Phillips Hue lights work very well with the associated smartphone app. Phillips also makes a Dimmer Switch and a Tap Switch for use cases when having access to a phone or tablet is not practical. The Phillips hardware switches might be preferable over a phone/tablet because you only have to press a single button (versus unlocking a phone, opening the correct application, and then pressing a button) and a phone/tablet has much greater needs in terms of electricity. The Phillips Dimmer Switch operates on a replaceable watch battery. The Phillips Tap Switch doesn't even require a battery at all! (It uses the mechanical energy generated by the physical action of pressing the button to power itself.)

I wonder if either the Dimmer Switch or Tap Switch from Phillips could be hacked/re-purposed to send command to Google Home?

u/SuncoastGuy · 3 pointsr/smarthome

I recommend smart switches vs smart bulbs. It keeps the traditional control plus avoids having to stick secondary Philips switches(or similar) next to the "real"ones with child covers on the "real" switch so people don't turn off the circuit. The only time I would use smart bulbs is for something like a table lamp that has no wall switch or for renters.

u/Lakestang · 2 pointsr/smarthome

I just replaced the switches in a four gang box with these which are being controlled by a Smartthings hub.

The GE Z-wave switches are the only toggle type switches I could find. They can be purchased as regular switches or dimmers and can do three or four way switching.

They fit in my box, cramped but, it worked.

Cloud based control from your phone or Alexa. Switch still works like a regular switch, it just stays in the middle all the time.

Nice thing is you can buy others and add them as you want.

u/Catalyst8487 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I think this qualifies as a new question... I want to set up a couple rooms in my house with motion sensors and smart switches to turn lights on and off after a certain amount of inactivity - My wife and kids are notoriously bad at doing it themselves. My question is this... Is it better to get a smart switch and sensor or buy a combo device like this? Price-wise it seems to be about the same so are there any practical considerations that would drive my choice one way or the other?

u/WDE1991 · 4 pointsr/videos

If I was not a broke ass college student I would honestly send you one.
Happy Birthday

u/mccoolio · 5 pointsr/homeautomation

Hey, /u/kerj!

My company (Jasco) manufactures both the Enbrighten lights and the GE Z-Wave Outdoor Switch. The model 12720 you linked is the old Z-Wave model. We have a newer Z-Wave Plus model, 14284. It is rated for 150 feet of range.

Setup is indeed a bit more than just buying the Outdoor Switch to be able to automate your Enbrighten lights (or whatever else you choose to plug into it). You'll need a Z-Wave hub like /u/bfodder said. SmartThings, Wink, any of those will do. Wink even makes the Wink Hub v1 and sells it for around $30 on Amazon. You could get that and our Outdoor Switch and you'd be all set.

You can send ON/OFF commands from your phone at any time and also setup schedules (depending on how well the hub manufacturer you pick has integrated your selected Z-Wave device).

Feel free to ping any other questions you might have off me.

u/AGLegit · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Lutron MIR-LFQTHW-WH Maestro IR 300-watt Single Pole Fan and Light Control Kit, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017O71MI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.0PFybYW4PQEH is the best thing I've found so far... probably just gonna buy a Haiku L fan though

u/pocket_geek · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I did this with GE Switches in the wall wired up with no load. I Direct wired my ceiling fans and rewired their light kits with the Aeotec Micro Dimmer 2nd Edition
Then use Smart Lighting in Smartthings to tell the dimmer to turn on/off depending on the on/off status of the GE Switch in the wall. I have 4 ceiling fans setup like this. Works well. Would probably work even better if the GE Switches I used were ZWave +.

This nice thing about this module is it still has a provision for the pull chain. So the switch and the pull chain are functional in my setup.

u/phineas1134 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Not a "smart" solution, but I've used one of these remote swithes for a few years to solve a similar issue. It's worked great for me.

u/RichardBLine · 2 pointsr/smarthome

These are 3 individual switches, therefore, you can just replace them with Homekit smart switches. You may need to get a bigger box to accommodate these Homekit smart switches.

I have listed some of the Homekit smart switches below and a link to the Apple website that has a list of all the Homekit switches that are available. Also, the Homekit subreddit is here: https://reddit.com/r/HomeKit/ if you have more Homekit questions.


https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Dimmer-Switch-Required-HomeKit/dp/B0743Q7VCL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540877906&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=idevices+dimmer+switch&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Wall-Switch-Required-Single/dp/B06Y5G7XPJ?ref_=w_bl_hsx_s_hi_web_3031359011

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B07G5V6M6G/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540877972&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=lutron+caseta+switch&psc=1

https://www.apple.com/ios/home/accessories/

u/uknow_es_me · 2 pointsr/pools

Second the smart relay.. here's one on Amazon that is even advertised for pool pumps.. I've had good luck with the GE Zwave receptacles inside my house using a SmartThings hub.

u/masterplan1989 · 1 pointr/electrical

This will do exactly what you want.

LUTRON P-BDG-PKG1W Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Starter Kit: 1 Smart Bridge, 1 In-Wall Smart Dimmer with Wallplate and 1 Pico Remote, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s-dvzb6XKJW7B

u/ChellaBella · 2 pointsr/slowcooking

I'm on my phone so I'll try to come back with a link but I've seen these outlet timers you could use? Basically plug it between your slow cooker and the wall outlet and it keeps power from hitting your cooker until whatever time you set. Originally made to turn lamps on at night but would work. That way you could get whatever slow cooker you liked, set it, then it wouldn't come on until you wanted it to.

Edit: something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006LYHED0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1396462397&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

u/glisters · 1 pointr/amazonecho

There is a simple way you can do this outside of Echo. Just get him to put a remote-controlled switch on the power adaptor. This kind of thing.

The cheap approach is to buy a simple RF-controlled switch and put the actual switch itself somewhere you can access (like on the outside of his door). That will allow you to power-off the Echo without entering his room.

The fancy approach is to use a smart switch that you can link to your phone, your own Echo, or whatever. The main advantage of this is that he could also control it. For example, he could use geofencing to automatically power-off his Echo when he is nowhere near the house.


Obviously the most appropriate way to deal with this problem is for your roommate to stop using alarms on the Echo if he can't remember to cancel them when he's not around. But if you want a tech-based 'solution' then these seem like good options.

u/hunterstee · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

For number 3, you could replace the switch with a Z-wave dimmer switch:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2

And then get one of several hubs that works with the switch and Echo, like Smartthings for example:

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE

That setup might let you use your current bulbs with Alexa without having to swap them all out for Phillips Hue or LIFX. I say "might" because not all dimmable LEDs work well with all dimmer switches. Probably want to buy the switch first without the hub and try it. This setup also has the added benefit over Hue lights of still being able to use the physical switch for dimming without having to add a Hue dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Philips-458141-Hue-Dimmer-Switch/dp/B0167Z0P3I.

u/ImArchimedes · 2 pointsr/smarthome

We actually have a bunch of Lutron Caseta switches which work great. Those ones you posted look nicer without leds on them but we really like the rotary/knob dimmers. They seem to match the house. We’re getting gouged for it though.

u/JshWright · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Seriously... don't do this... This is an excellent way to burn down your house/apartment, or electrocute yourself. Yes, commercial products are a little more expensive, but that's because they have to meet actual quality standards and are rigorously tested (assuming you buy something that is UL rated).

Look in to a product like this: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd/dp/B00IRI1CEK/

That little "UL" in the top right corner means it is certified to not burn your house down (used properly)...

u/Immatix · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

You could look into products utilizing Z-Wave. There's a few modules that can be placed into a box behind switches or above light fixtures, like potentially this one. But you'd still need a Z-Wave controller, something like the SmartThings Hub, perhaps.

EDIT: Here's another Z-Wave wire-in switch. There are even motion sensors like this one and other things that speak Z-Wave.

u/radman1999 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

If you are doing z-wave replace your far switch with a wireless 3-way switch. This one works great. Then disconnect or cap off your power to that box. Lutron Caseta Smart Home Dimmer Switch and Pico Remote Kit, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant | P-PKG1WB-WH | White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HM6L48C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mnc4DbXWKEZ40

u/Camallanus · 3 pointsr/PlantedTank

Lights with the 24/7 light cycle will grow a good amount of algae on their default settings. The only one I would consider (if I got another one) would be the Finnex 24/7 CC model because it's much more customizable. But if you still want a cheap one, then get the cheap Vivagrow 24/7 one.

On my 20g long, I use this NICREW light and it has grown all of my low and medium light plants great:

https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-Aquarium-Light-Extendable-Brackets/dp/B01ID3OK3S/

The only caution I have is it is at the very edge of medium-high (tested mine at 50 PAR but you said you want that) light fixture on a 20g long, so you may need to get a cheap inline dimmer dial to go with it just in case:

https://www.amazon.com/Strip-Light-Dial-Dimmer-Black/dp/B00RBXPDQU/

Very cheap timer that works with any fixture:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LYHED0/

More expensive timer with gradual on/off for those skittish fish (I buy the used ones). Requires standard DC connectors though, so it won't work with stuff like Finnex or older Beamswork models:

https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Single-Timer-Aquarium/dp/B00FDV1AFA

u/73IRS · 15 pointsr/HomeImprovement

This system is great.

We have a Logitech Harmony hub based remote and I've used Caseta switches to control the living room lighting, ceiling fans, and the fireplace.

u/elbirth · 2 pointsr/SmartThings

We recently installed these GE switches and have so far liked them a lot. They don't look dramatically different from traditional switches, and you can then use whatever bulb you need in the actual outlet.

Just as a note, we did have issues with the newer SmartThings app automating the lights coming on at night and going off in the morning, but it seemed to be an issue with the app- we used the classic app and it's worked perfectly ever since.

u/poldim · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I think you can do it using mysensors. The store lists a ACS712ELC 30A Current Sensor which you can wire in series to your load. One idea would be to mimic a http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013V8K3O/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1453046080&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=smart+receptacle+cord&dpPl=1&dpID=31v4qTEZyWL&ref=plSrch or Aeon Labs DSC06106-ZWUS - Z-Wave Smart Energy Switch. You can do this by cutting an extension cable with one side going to the wall receptacle and the other to your load and all the electronics i n the middle. Need an arduino pro mini, radio, 110-5v, the current sensor, and a box to make it look nice.

u/fegriffith · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I used this for an outlet most recemtly:
GoControl WO15Z-1 Z-Wave Single Wall Outlet, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFK1YRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WW8iybATX7XG4

This is the plug in lamp dimmer module
GE Lighting Lamp Module with Dimmer Control, Z-Wave, Plug-In, White, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMM7E6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2X8iybCTVJ88R

This is the regular switch... Notice this is a "regular" style but you can find it in paddle as well.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control Smart Toggle Switch, In-Wall, White, 12727 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d08iybB4CY6HZ

u/Quasmo · 2 pointsr/electricians

My wife burnt our counter top in our bathroom. I put in an outlet with this.

I have a controller let me know if it is consuming energy. If it consumes energy for greater than 30 minutes, I turn the outlet off.

u/MoreLefter · 1 pointr/HomeAutomationDeals

Nice! FYI it’s $84 normally on amazon. smile.amazon.com

u/jam905 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

It may cover the WeMo plug, but I doubt it'll have sufficient depth for the WeMo and the plug that plugged into the WeMo. For an outdoor installation, I'd recommend a z-wave solution like GE outdoor z-wave outlets. Off course, it does mean that you'll need a z-wave hub ...

u/_Something-Clever_ · 1 pointr/SmartThings

You might try a normal switch connected to an
Aeon Labs Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0gD-zbVX154GH

Turns your dumb switch smart :)

There's also a dimmer module:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PiD-zbWY6WYJM

u/nutbastard · 1 pointr/appliancerepair

Just get yourself something like This

It's cheap, it's programmable, it just sits on the outlet.

There are mechanical options as well, just search for "120V countdown outlet timer". There's no need to get all fancy and wire something up.

As for the on/off switch, a photo would help, and you'd do well to search http://digikey.com

u/rufunky · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Thanks, yes it does. What model do you have though? This starter pack doesn't use a neutral and from what the reviews say it can be very buzzy with some lights. Also says it doesn't resume the last state dim level.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG2W-Assistant/dp/B01M3XJUAD/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Lutron+Caseta+dimmer+starter&qid=1556807752&s=electronics&sr=8-1

u/nkprives · 1 pointr/SmartThings

They're these: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Toggle Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Works with Amazon Alexa (Hub Required), 14292 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VYCFXT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nD95AbKGCA0NT

u/MrsMirage · 3 pointsr/hometheater

I would buy 7 other Bluetooth speakers, preferably from different companies, that sounds excessive but it is what you need for Dolby atoms.

Usually the Bluetooth speakers will have a headphone jack, you will use that to connect it to the TV. Obviously your TV doesn't have 10 headphone jacks, but that's where these babies come into play, you will need 9 of them.
You may face the issue that it is cumbersome to turn on all of the speakers separately, you could use a IOT solution like this one to control all of them.

u/MadIllusion · 1 pointr/DIY
  1. Purchase The Clapper
  2. Attach The Clapper to PC
  3. ???
  4. PROFIT!!!
u/mixuhd · 5 pointsr/Hue

Yes, ofcourse. You need a hue lamp, a hue dimmer switch and a hue bridge.

As long as these 3 devices are in the same subnet it will work. This is the basic idea of Hue lights. You can also use a mobile phone to control the light, if connected to the same network or through internet if you have associated an account with the bridge.

EDIT: Sorry, I thought/remembered that the devices communicate via Wifi. Like /u/maxtor202003 mentioned, they use ZigBee together.

Still, this is possible, but the "switch" should be a device of some kind, that communicates with the bridge via network (WiFi/Internet). You could build such switch quite easily, for example by using a ESP8266 or an Arduino, or it could be an old computer or a mobile phone.

u/weightalt · 2 pointsr/keto

It's the little things that make the journey that much better. :) (You could always get an outlet timer to turn it on automatically, btw.)

u/FloatOldGoat · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

So does GoControl, and I love it specifically because it leaves the swich in the on position. Installation is a breeze, and the switches are only $15 on Amazon. (Note, technically, it's a button, not a switch.)

Edit: Here's a link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BKWG9XS/

u/Wwalltt · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

What about something like this?

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Outdoor Module, On/Off, Plug-In, 1 Outlet with Weather-Resistant Outlet Cover, Black, Works with Amazon Alexa (Hub Required), 14284 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OPzHAbMB9QM4R

u/rehehe · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You'll just need one bridge and it works out to cost about $40 if you buy it with the dimmer and pico bundle (although Amazon is offering me a 30% off coupon at the moment, which would make it under $10 - link in case other people see the coupon too).

The dimmers don't connect on wifi, so they need a Lutron bridge. From there it is probably the best integrated product in my home. Everyone appears to integrate with Lutron.

u/jamieb122 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I literally just installed one of these 15 minutes ago. It works great, I can control it via Amazon Echo through my hub, but it maintains the look and feel of the original light switch.

The micro switch just sits inside the gangbox.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Wave-Micro-Dimmer-2nd/dp/B00IRI1CEK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483133953&sr=8-2&keywords=aeotec+micro+smart+switch

u/CynicallySane · 3 pointsr/smarthome

SmartThings and Alex work very well together. Not to mention SmartThings automation is second to none as far as I have experienced with other hubs. This prevents you from having all those apps as you mentioned. All you have to do is add zwave or zigbee devices to your hub and you can control them from one place.
In your case, especially with the outside lights, I would just install one of these Aeontec microswitches. They come in dimmers too. You can hide them in the walls and your switches still work just as they did before, with the exception that you can now control them wirelessly. Just be sure to watch your draw. A lot of outdoor flood lights might be too much wattage for them. I installed a Lutron Caseta switch and hub for my father and quickly brushed up against the 650 Watt limit of those switches with all his outdoor flood lights. I'll be honest I don't know the limit of these switches and I can't find it on Aeontec's website, but you should be fine bellow 700 watts per switch.
With SmartThings you can set up timers for devices, link them to motion detectors, and even check on their power consumption if you have the right kind of switch.

u/kerj · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Thank you for pointing those string lights out. Not only are they somewhat more cost efficient (at the current price), that product page links to this GE Z-Wave outdoor plug. It says it works with Harmony hub, which I have but I'm still not sure if:

  • The hub is inside, what will I have to do so it still sends the signal?
  • What actions can the Z-Wave plug do? If it's just on/off, is that worth it?
u/DoomBot5 · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

The hue remotes come with wall mounting plates. Even if you don't screw them into the wall, you can still find another way to attach them. The remote attaches to the plate via magnets. They're also the same size as a normal outlet, so will fit nicely next to any light switches you have.

Here is a link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0167Z0P3I/

Edit: huh, looks like he ESP have dropped in price since I've last messed with them. Maybe it's a value pack of Chinese knockoffs though.

u/Doobliheim · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Some routers have the ability to do scheduled restarts, but not a whole lot of them have the ability to turn themselves on and off (at least to my knowledge). The last time this question was raised, the top answer was to use some form of outlet timer (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Multifunctional-Infinite-Programmable-Appliances-Energy-saving/dp/B01G6O28NA)

*Note* I've never used that product before. It's just for reference.

u/buro2018 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Try GE outdoor plug made by Jasco I think! I have one and works fine and just saw it’s on sale!!! GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Outdoor Smart Plug Switch, 1 On/Off Outlet, Weather-Resi... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_p9MMDbX15AAQZ

u/Digitalburn · 2 pointsr/smarthome

I used this one for our Halloween setup. Worked pretty well (and I think it's currently on sale.)

https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Weather-Resistant-Required-Works-SmartThings-14284/dp/B06W9NWFM3?ref_=Oct_DLandingS_PC_5631bd19_NA&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Edit: Nevermind, this is zwave, not wireless.

u/niedejb · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Micro zwave switch in the gang box for the switch or at the light.

Switch interrupts the "hot" wire to the light.

Put the HA controller on a schedule to be off from bedtime til morning.

Switch will work normally at all other times.

Aeon Labs DSC18103-ZWUS,White,US,AL001 Aeotec Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch, 2nd Edition, White, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2H-Nzb7KB7F84

u/dgl6y7 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Here are the most recent ones I bought:

Sengled Element Classic Smart LED Light Bulb (Hub Required), A19 Dimmable LED Light Daylight 5000K 60W Equivalent, Works with Alexa/Echo Plus/SmartThings/Google Assistant, 8 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0791ZWZ2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZKIUBb4PX2P98

Either the price went up or I was remembering it wrong. Probably the latter. Just under $10 each with free shipping.

Edit:

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Lighting Control Light Switch, Toggle Style, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Repeater and Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14292 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VYCFXT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wPIUBbVERMQDW

Here is the switch I got also.

u/jpaquino3 · 1 pointr/smarthome

Not a problem! GE has a smart fan switch that will work for what you need.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
You would need a z-wave hub though.

Or you can get crazy with the Harmony and the Lutron Maestro IR fan and light switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017O71MI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_CHWyybQC0JFEJ
But no Siri voice control and probably awkward through Alexa.

u/boredinballard · 3 pointsr/vinyl

Ah! But they do! Beautifully! This is the one I use.

I made some battery powered video lights with the same type of LED ribbon. Have two different LED color temps on each light, both temps are set on separate dimmers. Lots of control.

u/0110010001100010 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

Yep, every office where I work has them and they are very effective. Under the button too they have dials to control sensitivity and timeout.

If OP needs something to integrate with current automation GE also makes a z-wave version: https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Occupancy-26933/dp/B071Y38FX5

u/justwantedahome · 1 pointr/smarthome

So are you forced to control the speed through the app, there is nothing on the unit itself?

Also do they have a remote for these: I would really like: A dimming wall switch, A fan speed control, wall, a single remote that does both, plus smart home integration. I don't care if it is single gang or not.

This but with a smart connectivity: [Link] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017O71MI/ref=asc_df_B0017O71MI5369703)

u/iheartbrainz · 8 pointsr/SmartThings

GE makes a Z-wave light switch that dims and has a motion sensor. I have one that is strictly on/off for my pantry and it works great.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B071Y38FX5/ref=twister_B07BC89LDF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

u/mankyd · 5 pointsr/homeautomation

They still function like regular light switches. You can control them manually via the wall or remotely.

Note that all ZWave switches that I've seen basically amount to push buttons instead of the typical rocker that most homes use. That is to say, they have a physical switch with both and on and an off, but the switch doesn't physically move to indicate whether it's on or off. They usually have an led built into them that shows this.

If you want to keep your existing switches, check out something like Aeotec's micro-switches: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008VWAPU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. You install these behind your existing wall switches. Once you do that, your existing switches continue to work the same as before, and you can control them remotely.

u/s4nch0p4nd4 · 1 pointr/smarthome

Yes. Here’s more info: Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch Starter Kit, P-BDG-PKG1W, Works with Alexa, Apple HomeKit, and the Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_doqnDbD8YH17Y

u/OctothorpeJim · 6 pointsr/SmartThings

Any zwave switch should be able to toggle power. They are relatively easy to wire in. Just watch a few YouTube videos (TURN THE BREAKER OFF FIRST).


I wanted to have a toggle switch that matched the other toggles in the house (not the flat 'paddles'). These are a little large but should find in a double box like that.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12727/dp/B00PYMGOHM

u/finalcutfx · 1 pointr/SmartThings

I have the one below and used it for holiday lights last year. No issues what so ever.
https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Weather-Resistant-SmartThings-14284/dp/B06W9NWFM3

I also have about 12-15 of the hard wired switches in my house and they all work great.

u/AdamJacobMuller · 1 pointr/HVAC

How does your blower fan connect to power, hard wired I assume?

this meter will do it, but you need (some) infrastructure to be able to collect/log the data depending on what you want.

Once you have meter(s) like that you can do cool things with them though.

u/Kairus00 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

Easiest solution would be to install a simple toggle switch. You can do this at your equipment pad. Cut the wire feeding the device and install the switch in between this connection. I'm assuming it's 240v? If so, just use a switch like this as long as you have a 30amp or smaller breaker.

If it's outdoors, just grab a weatherproof junction box like this and a cover. Might have to get creative with the conduit run (assuming outside), but should be no big deal if you're handy.

The line feeding my pool equipment has a toggle switch like that. The line comes from the breaker into a toggle, then out to a timer that controls my pump and salt cell.

You could also install a timer instead of a switch if you wanted. They even make z-wave ones.

u/degorius · 1 pointr/homeassistant

ive got some of these that work great with existing switches and their faceplates and are about the same cost as whole new switches.

u/ArizonaLad · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

OK, I can see a couple of ways to go with getting you some light. First is to mount some recessed lights, that don't need a recessed fixture:

https://www.aspectled.com/collections/led-recessed-ceiling-lights/products/6-ultra-thin-recessed-light-9w#tab-2

Here is how you install them:

http://info.aspectled.com/hubfs/downloads/installation_guides/aspectLED_Ultra-Thin_Recessed_LED_Light_Installation.pdf

If that doesn't work for you, then you can control outlets wirelessly from your wall switch:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wall-Switch-Receiver-Wireless-18279/dp/B00R7Q7PT4

NOTE: The above is for illustration only. There must be 50 products that can do a version of this for you. You can also use your home network, your smartphone, or your digital assistant to do the work, as well. "Alexa, dim the lights to 20%".

Head on over to /r/smarthome and /r/homeautomation to see what other folks are doing.

Warning: If you get into home automation, it can become addictive. I control my ceiling fans, interior and exterior lights, TV and home theater, HVAC, door locks, and home security system, all by voice control.

u/tbrean · 1 pointr/jerky

I picked up these and they seem to work okay, although I would prefer something that had a countdown rather than programing a 24-hour dial. If I were to purchase something again, I would go with something more like this.

u/kwalb · 1 pointr/HomeKit

The picture you have there shows a fixture versus a standard consumer replaceable bulb. It also shows a light that is hardwired into the wall, I am assuming you turn this light on and off using a switch. So versus the hue model of replacing the bulb, you wire in a new switch.

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-BDG-PKG1W-Assistant/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=lutron+caseta+hub&qid=1569721998&sr=8-2

It requires very basic home DIY skills namely:

  • ability to identify and turn off circuit breakers
  • comfort some some very simple wiring
  • comfort with google + youtube + here if troubles arise
u/fatangaboo · 5 pointsr/AskEngineers

You could use cell phones and then have all-around-the-world range. Just put the receiving cell phone on SpeakerPhone and connect the light to The Clapper (LINK). Now you clap at the sending cellphone, the receiving cellphone plays this clap, and The Clapper turns on your light. Easy.

u/iHelp101 · 0 pointsr/perktv

It depends on your desires. If you want more phones now I have a feeling this is going to be the best option. If you are willing to wait the price may lower again. One thing I recommend if you don't already have one is a outlet timer. People say LG devices (LG Fuel mostly) have battery bloating issues more than other devices.

Outlet timers allow you to set the hours a device charges and doesn't charge. So you may say charge for 3 hours stop for 3 and repeat the remainder of the day. The one I linked is a two pack (Cheapest I could find) for $9. At Walmart they are $5-ish for one outlet timer.
__
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LYHED0

u/czrabode · 1 pointr/Abode

If I were you, I would go with Aeon Labs Z Wave Smart Energy Switch . They are cheap, hides behind regular light switches, and works flawlessly with Abode.

u/exigence · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Here is the switching device that has metering. Of course you'd need some software or hardware to display the data.
Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Micro Smart Energy Switch, 2nd Edition (DSC18103-ZWUS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWAPU4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_-Fflub0A1GRC5

u/The1hangingchad · 14 pointsr/homeautomation

GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Heavy Duty 40 Amp Smart Switch, Indoor/Outdoor Rated 120-277V, Energy Monitoring, Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14285, Metal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8uihDb7SNW5NN

u/pigsflew · 1 pointr/amazonecho
  • Answer calls in a different room than is currently being called.
  • Manipulate music from a different device ("pause in the living room"; "stop in the living room")
  • Music/timer/alarm hand off from device to device ("echo, I've moved from the living room"; "echo, I'm going to the office")
  • Zigbee remote buttons support to trigger actions (e.g. use one of these and have it turn on and off a set of lights / plugs without needing to speak, if desired)
u/MaxTE7 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

My recommendation would be to have a normal switch in A and disconnect all the other switches and wires(you can probably just leave them cold in the wall) and then use pico remotes in the other two locations. They're great because they can screw in right into a standard cover plate. And be placed anywhere since they're battery operated. Sadly they only work with other lutron switches even through a third party hub like a wink hub so you'd have to replace your leviton switch with a lutron one.
Also the dimmable Lutrons don't require a neutral as they basically keep the circuit open just a tiny bit so the can stay powered(think powerdraw of like miliamps) but not enough for the bulbs to turn on.


Switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQA/

Pico + bracket x 2:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLAXFQ0/

https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Wallplate-Bracket-PICO-WBX-ADAPT/dp/B00JZRAFEA/


You can buy them separately if you already have existing ecosystem or you can get this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M3XJUAD

u/Giblet15 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Ignoring the wall plug for a moment, what does the plug on the actual ac look like?

Edit: I'm dumb you posted a picture...

I don't have any good suggestions for a 20 amp appliance but I'll see what I can dig up.

Edit 2: I'm really only finding one other option and it seems even more expensive. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_lhhZBb20AGE7N

It might be worth checking the model of the actual unit. We have two of the same model, one wired for 220v 40 amp and one for 110v 15 amp. Depending it might be as easy as swapping the power cord on the ac which would probably be the cheapest option.

u/i_am_j11 · 1 pointr/smarthome

I'm not sure what existing system you have already... but here's how I would do it.

Leave the switch in the ON position 24/7.

For the GFCI outlet, depending on how you would use it and if you want control over it, I would get this GE z wave outdoor dongle.
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Outdoor/dp/B0013V8K3O

For lights, I would get either the GE Link bulbs or Wemo bulbs, or Philips Hue. With its respective hub (or Smartthings Hub), you're able to control the lights thru your phone.

u/gewerbegebiet · 1 pointr/AskReddit

We had twinkle lights. Everywhere. Hooked up to a clapper, actually. It was fantastic.

u/BreakingBarley · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

What year is it?


That took me all the way back to the 90's. I haven't gotten into using sensors with the pi, but it looks interesting

u/MicahHerfaDerf · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

It sounds like you want an on/off switch.

GE makes those but other manufacturers probably do as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGOHM/ref=crt_ewc_title_gw_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

u/jds013 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You didn't mention your country, but you might check out the GE Heavy Duty module (40A) or the Aeotec Gen 5 Smart Switch.

u/datagangster · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I've been using the GE z-wave toggle switches with SmartThings and haven't had any issues. I initially tried to avoid replacing the switches and put in the smart bulbs but our issue was if the power goes out in the middle of the night the bulbs would then turn on and wake us up. The other added benefit with the switches is that anyone visiting doesn't need anything special to control the lights (parents, friends, dog watchers).

Just as a tip, when installing the switches we had issues with them working in the first hour or so (probably due to needing to do the z-wave network repair). Initially the z-wave network repair was failing. What I found worked was to install the switch, connect to smartthings and do setup for a couple minutes, flip breaker to kill power to switch for 10 minutes, turn breaker back on, and then run the z-wave network repair. Since doing that process we've had zero issues. Hope this helps you out.

Edit: Here is the link to how to do SmartThings Z-Wave Repair :) https://support.smartthings.com/hc/en-us/articles/200981864-How-do-I-make-sure-my-Z-Wave-devices-are-routing-optimally-

u/idreamofdinos · 1 pointr/wholesomememes

This is the one I have. I have it plugged into string lights so I don't have to have my bright ass overhead light on in the evenings when I'm settling down for bed. It's great because the switch is on the wall right next to my headboard.

u/comedygene · 2 pointsr/electricians

[Try this](The Clapper, Wireless Sound Activated On/Off Light Switch (Clapper Original) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CGKLR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2OxGDbRRKD5A2)

Just download the Clap App to your hand and its g2g!

u/AMV · 1 pointr/firstworldproblems

[You need one these good sir/madam.](http://www.amazon.com/Clapper-Sound-Activated-Switch-Each/dp/B0000CGKLR "What's that, Marge? I can't hear you! I'm clapping!")

u/thecardinal77 · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

I plugged mine into this. Works great with my smartthings hub.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Outdoor Module, On/Off, Plug-In, Black, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12720 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V8K3O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nlMAoRWuALZw1

u/Fiordhraoi · 1 pointr/SmartThings

OKay, so for each 3-way, I'd need something like one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGOHM/ref=asc_df_B006LQFHN25032304/

and one of these?:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGYY0/

(And the hub of course)

u/PoshFrosh · 1 pointr/googlehome

Thanks for the response BreakfastBeerz. A quick search there makes it seem like this device may work:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-45605-Z-Wave-Technology-Receptacle/dp/B00PYMGOHM/

But since our one light has three separate switches in the room I'm hesitant to move forward with this plan due to the expense and complexity that may be involved.

u/CarretillaRoja · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

No, as the lamp I would like to use is on the opposite side of the room. Is there anything that I can plug on the “useless plug” that send a signal to the “wanted plug” and it turn the light on?

I thought on this, but it has a switch and I want to use the ones I already have. Instead of the switch I would like to have something plugged to the wall that when I use my switches, could activate the receiver.

Sorry for the explanation, English is not my mother language.

u/hiplesster · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

Here's a z-wave switch to control the heater. Check out the reviews for how people use it. I happened to stumble on this giant switch the other day.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting and Appliance Control, 40 Amp, Large Load, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor, For Pool Pumps, Hot Water Heaters, Landscape Lighting, and Other Large Appliances, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12726

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KccUzbDE8D5R2

u/allanak · 3 pointsr/homeassistant

GE outdoor plug is on sale right now on amazon.

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Lighting & Appliance Control Outdoor Module, On/Off, 1 Weather-Resistant Outlet Cover, Plug-in, Zwave Hub Required-Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14284, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9NWFM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_La48BbP4JGXCX

u/Sketch3000 · 1 pointr/SmartThings

I'm not fully following what you are asking for.

You want a smart switch with no dimming capability.

But are you saying you want it to only control one light, or two?

Is this a for a three way switch?

If I have put it together properly, you are just looking for a regular ordinary on/off single pole light switch with no dimming capability?

like this?: switch


u/SamanthaMP5 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

This Lutron Caseta kit will solve your problem.

Basically it does exactly what you described. It makes the outside switch a smart switch and then allows you to take the pico remote to wirelessly control that switch. You can then mount the Pico remote to the wall inside your closet so that it'll look like a normal switch in your closet.

u/dougc84 · 1 pointr/SmartThings

Personally, I've not had good luck with GE devices. I have an outdoor switch (this one: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Required/dp/B0013V8K3O ), two wall switches, and one wall dimmer. The outdoor switch (the only one I still have installed) goes offline about once or twice a month for seemingly no reason even though it has direct line of sight to the hub (with the only obstruction being a glass window).

Now, that's me. It could just be my home layout. But I've had much better luck with Homeseer products (WS-100 and WD-100), though I don't know if they make an outdoor appliance switch, like the one you linked.

u/MorleyDotes · 1 pointr/SmartThings

I hear you. I'm finding that smart outlets may not be the answer to most of what I want to do. I'm thinking I'm going be tucking a few of these in some boxes.