Reddit mentions: The best electromechanical products

Yes they connect to the GPIO. I would use some pushbuttons like this then get some of these dupont cables to connect them to the GPIO on your Pi. Just snip and strip the male end of the cable and solder it to the leads on the button. You'll want to daisy chain one lead from all of the buttons and plug that into a ground pin on the Pi then connect the other lead from the button to an availible GPIO pin shown on this page in the "connecting to the Raspberry Pi" section.

After you have your buttons all connected, you'll need to install Retrogame. It's very simple but Adafruit's guide is pretty bad, if you ask me. I had a hell of a time figuring it out the first time so I'll just explain it to you here to save you time.

Use Putty on your PC to SSH into the Pi (you can find your Pi's IP address in the Retropie menu in Emulationstation, the port is 22, and use the SSH connection type, then the username is Pi, password is raspberry - when you type the password into the terminal nothing will show up, just hit enter when you're done and you'll have direct control over the terminal on your Pi). Now copy this code and right click in the terminal window to paste and hit enter

git clone git://github.com/adafruit/Adafruit-Retrogame
When that's done enter this

sudo nano /etc/rc.local
Enter the following right before where it says "exit 0"

/home/pi/Adafruit-Retrogame/retrogame &
Hit ctrl+x and save the file. Now enter

sudo nano /etc/udev/rules.d/10-retrogame.rules
And enter this in the new document

SUBSYSTEM=="input", ATTRS{name}=="retrogame", ENV{ID_INPUT_KEYBOARD}="1"
Now save the file just as with the previous one.
Now download the retrogame.cfg from the retrogame github and open it with a text editor on your computer (if you don't already have it now would be a good time to get Notepad++) and change the keybinding you want to use for the corresponding pin. Save the file and copy it in the boot directory of your Pi by putting the SD card in your computer.

That should do it.

If you need any help or more information just ask. I know how irritating this stuff can be. I've been wrestling with getting my setup working perfectly for a while and have just recently figured it all out. It's great once it works!

Edit: formatting fixed.

For a display I am using this: i2c 7-segment display, and if you are grabbing the display you can't use the Spark Core relay board because they use the lines that are setup for i2c to control relays instead.

So the total bill of materials for my build is:

• Spark Core
  
  
• that display
  
  
• temp sensor (I have 2, so I can read temps of both fermenters or fermenter/fridge)
  
  
• relay board
  
  
• sacrificial extension cord
  
  
• electrical box & project box
  
  
• electrical plug
  
  
• some breadboard connection wires
  
  
• Fridge
  
  
• Heater
  
  I don't believe you can get a local spark cloud server going, but the beauty of it is that you don't have to. You can just use their cloud service for free and be able to read variables and run registered functions securely and remotely without any issues. How I have it set is so that the spark core by default won't control the temp but can be given a command to set the temp and then it will just hold that temp until a new command comes in. So far it has been holding my fermenter to within a degree and switching between temps nice and quickly. I am very pleased, but still want the BrewBlogger integration so I can setup what temp I want at what time and to record and graph the temps. By next week I should be pushing some code up to github, so I'll PM you then and give you a link.
  
  You could easily run BrewBlogger off of a Pi if you didn't have another place to run it, but it's just a PHP website that would need a scheduled task to run to fetch temps.

If your kids are old enough to talk and handle the blasters, IMO they're mature enough to learn proper blaster/gun safety. Which is up to you, but I'd recommend things like not looking down the barrel, not pointing it at faces/anything you don't intend to shoot, and always assuming it's loaded.

If you don't trust them with the blasters, put them somewhere safe and have them ask you if they want to play with them. They'll probably end up jamming the blaster somehow and shredding darts, because I've seen college students do the same.

For the trigger switch, something like this would be a good switch, and you can watch the Make Test Battle Super Stryfe video for a guide on how to do the switch and some rewiring demos.

Seems as if you have all the parts you would need for a basic build. I'm still a bit new to this myself, so hopefully someone else will correct me if I'm off the mark.

I used the following parts:

• (1) Hammond 1590G
  
• (1) 3V Blue Lamp Metal 14mm Threaded Momentary Push Button Switch
  
• (4) Neodymium Magnets 1/4" x 1/8" Disc
  
• (8) Neodymium Magnets 1/8" x 1/8" Disc
  
• (1) 18650 Flat Tip Battery Holder
  
• (2) 6x6mm x 8.5mm PCB Momentary Tactile Push Button
  
• (1) .030" Thick, Clear Lexan - Polycarbonate
  
• 20AWG Stranded Wire
  
• (1) Varitube 510 Connector
  
• (1) SX350 Chip (Pre-wired for up/down switches and USB From Varitube)
  
  I think that's it. I also have a few additional parts for the lighted push button, but you wont need those if you use a regular one. I can always post that info if you need it.
  
  Check the FAQ for tool recommendations for the basics you would need there.
  
  The SX350 allows for gravity changes (by tilting left/right) to control the wattage and uses it for menu navigation so the buttons are only there if you want more direct control.
  
  
  edit: If your SX350 does not have the buttons pre-wired there are pads for them on the chip you can wire your own. I believe there is a software update to enable them from Yihi. The one I got from Varitube was already set up for them.
  
  Normal momentary buttons are fine. I used something like This but any tactile switch should work fine.
  
  I have some of these on order as they look/feel a bit nicer then the basic plastic ones i have now.
  
  You might want some magnets for the faceplate. I got some 1/8"x1/8" and 1/4"x1/8" rare earth magnets off amazon and epoxied them in. Check the FAQ for some recommendations on glues and such.
  
  I would also recommend heat shrink tubing and some liquid electrical tape for the solder connections.
  
  Hope that helps.

For safe shut downs, charging warnings, and charging status - Adafruit PowerBoost 1000 Charger - Rechargeable 5V Lipo USB Boost @ 1A - 1000C-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMRBTH2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shell used-Gametown® Full Housing Shell Cover Case Pack with Screwdriver for Nintendo Gameboy Classic/Original GB DMG-01 Repair Part-White (pick whatever color you want)-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1C2L1C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Screen used- BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor For Car/Automobile – purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (side note here is that in order to make this fit nicer, I installed it upside down in the case.

Speak used - uxcell 16pcs 27mm External Magnetic Speaker Loudspeaker 8 Ohm 0.25W, purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010V4RAAW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (do not put ANYTHING on the top of the speaker when you install or it will not work.

Prototyping bread board, I purchased from amazon but it is no longer available at the link.

I used this PCB for the buttons on 1 build, the drill guide is VERY useful for this project. - 4 Button PCB For Gameboy DMG-01DIY Pi Zero Made In USA With Grounds and Hole Guide BY:Atomic Market, purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKJCQVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

L-R buttons- 100 Pcs 6 x 6mm x 9.5mm PCB Momentary Tactile Tact Push Button Switch 4 Pin DIP, purchased at amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008420WOA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

28 Gauge Wire - Ribbon Cable - 10 Wire (15ft), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R9SQQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I recommend going to a smaller (higher) gauge than 28. 30 or 32 would have made it a lot easer but 28 will do.

Indicator lights, Uxcell a11092800ux0119 Uxcell (Pack of 75), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0TCXSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (these are totally optional)

Resistors and capicitors (audio), purchased from https://www.taydaelectronics.com Note: heres the guide I used for the audio too! https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=480

Old Gameboy game cartridge. For aesthetics.
Headphone jack, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Socket-Audio-Jack-5Pin-PCB-Panel-Mount-Connector-PJ325-/400959590673

Volume wheel, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-B103-16x2mm-10K-Ohm-Double-Dial-Taper-Volume-Wheel-Duplex-PotentiometerBS/293146992835?epid=11009192051&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4440ec20c3:g:NZkAAOSw3h1ZUavq&enc=AQAEAAAB0BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qUCHDbWKwW7sKftQNu9OoIx7SAZoMMNoO7ZC%2BQU2m6tHizIeixg2Hdk8yQin%2B7yNcIdtTzT%2FneqdaLt1WntvDDMDNnZ9%2BCyBsPWRiKLCNPKdeaaZNnBjMoVA%2F0tK%2BtG7DVLtcUKV1a4ZUD8%2F3Lgu9eesPLoBiXZs77Vo7R%2FDaZVMV%2FquPTyLO%2FBFipuEkim1t7BIMiLOi2P3Z31r4yxIdLUw6SCVesvVeqBQuoKov776Dxzk8pUY7PZvu4Q3ULnqBWmlWXsKXc8iAp9juNxUBFHnDgW6A7iElTGYe0sQRXfFHW73jI62f5aO%2FnqGANNK%2F7KJlu474aR3Gae9%2FJCT%2FwoLqmBb4FfizrUJ6qKEuVeLAi31kJSoJXIv4msi3r0bMNSm2D7FL5DUBr0Bc4xsSPi7KFWI9AhmQjUn%2FsLVysgEKd8QEildi1DULaVOX11bv95PGoXvfAusYXSi5NQZk4oZJHr6QIjXu5w4e9Nd2lFtmG4ZB%2BkqROOwwliad72iafj6cbSLphBAjtWGZQVNbmcdKXG6S8h7cTVqt0aD4oej7%2BlDVihmo%2BV0Rc2MhA9FgkM%2BcyzPd0qc9vHvdxjpQUq&checksum=2931469928353c744c25da8843a496116014d4766745

Micro SD card (16 GB minimum)

Female Micro usb Port, (I know I did buy these but I can’t find the link. I bought female micro usb ports to make charging easier.)

I want to say this is the battery that I used, specifically because after taking the shell off it was the perfect fit inside of a gutted Gameboy Game cartridge-https://www.bestbuy.com/site/mycharge-razorplus-4000mah-portable-charger-for-most-usb-enabled-devices-silver/6292246.p?skuId=6292246

3d printed button wells-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-button-wells/

Extra buttons-https://www.retromodding.com/collections/gameboy

Screw bracket-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-screw-bracket/

I got A LOT of buttons, glass screen shields, the other three builds button PCBs, some stickers, seriously a lot of stuff from https://store.kitsch-bent.com/ his store is unfortunately closed as he has had life catch up to him and has some shit to attend to. If he comes back online show him some love.

Stuff I got from kitsch
PCB board with LR input points
Buttons for X/Y (you can opt to just get replacement snes or an extra set of Gameboy buttons.
Glass screen that fit the GB shell after removing extra plastic


And obviously you should have a pi zero/w as well a shit ton of patience.

Thanks for the detailed write-up on your safety mods!!

I've seen Solid State relays recommended over/instead of the MOSFETs you linked to. e.g. something like this but rated at 25A.

However I'm having trouble deciding which one on Amazon is compatible. Would I need one that is DC to AC or DC to DC?

Like would this one be appropriate? Or this one?

I'm looking at Amazon only because they ship from the US and I'm hoping to have a Mosfet or SSR in hand by next week.

EDIT: Doing some more research, it seems like one of these is what I need? Amazon results for SSR-40DD The recommended brands are Fotek, Auber and Crydom.

I did a similar project a couple years ago, but using a Raspberry Pi Zero W and a relay board. I used this relay board: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQF5HU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was quite happy controlling 24VAC.

I know you said you want an "all-in-one" board, but the ESP8266 is so small, it would be easy to connect it to the relay board and secure them together. That's what I did with the RPi0W - I just electrical taped it to the relay board. It ran quite happily for year before we moved house.

I tried my first project controlling a high power and current fan and it went great, until it didn't.

Basically I hooked up an Arduino Nano to control a 5v relay that controls a high power relay/contactor. The contactor controlled a 120VAC 15A fan, and turned it on or off when a window was open or closed. It worked perfectly and I called it a night.

Next morning I found that the magnetic sensor fell off the window (sending the "Turn the fan on" signal) and the fan was on as expected. But when the sensor was reinstalled the fan remained on when it shouldnt have. Even resetting the arduino did not interrupt the current to the fan.

This lead me to believe that the 5v relay has failed in the ON position, because this is the only way the contactor and fan would still have power.

Can anyone suggest a more reliable 5v input relay that can provide power to the electromagnet inside the contactor? I've looked at SSRs as being more reliable, and https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/ixys-integrated-circuits-division/CPC1706Y/CPC1706Y-ND/3077519 is one that I think is appropriate, any other suggestions?

5v relay
(https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073HX1DK2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Contactor
(https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001KGSJ74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Haven't built van yet, but for both my current car and truck I have a little garmin like this that has no monthly fees or anything and all it does is GPS, using free google maps.


The benefit to me is that I absolutely do not want touch-screen controls in a car for AC and things like that, it's just another thing to go wrong, and I mount it right here (sorry too lazy to go take a pic to I drew it) where it's invisible to anyone looking at the car due to tinted side windows to the darkest legal limit. I do not have to connect/disconnect my phone, I don't need a little cradle taking up my windshield, and I can glance over at it just fine. I have one mounted in the "top" glove box of my tundra as well and that one is super hidden. I did it first so I even put a cheap microswitch on the door that turns on the device when it opens.


If they ever break, who cares? Buy a new one they are dirt cheap. No fiddling with phones, nothing sitting on the dash, and concealing it I think might help against people breaking in. Even though they are only like $50, there's bound to be someone out there who thinks they are more valuable or would break the glass for $50.

Saw a similar issue with mine when I first set it up - switch worked but no lit led.

My issue of course was a wiring problem. For the led to be activated you need to make sure that the additional led connections are made too. This will depend upon the switch you used of course but if you are using something like this https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Momentary-Waterproof-Stainless-Suitable/dp/B075QBJVTS?ref_=ast_bbp_dp then check the wiring diagram for program 1. My mistake was I missed that the NO (Normally Open) and the positive LED legs should be shorted to each other. Since mine had a wiring harness I just connected both wires to the positive connection of the zvs unit.

Hope your led issue is a simple fix like mine

BTW I like how you were able to fit it into that compact case, looks cool

No need to paypal, please just post your results! Success or failure, we want to see, learn and maybe help! Going straight from one battery to another poses the same problem as going from solar to battery directly. Little or no control. You can get basic buck down constant current constant voltage power supplies that would work with these. Again, they won't be smart and may have some ripple in their voltage, but they should work as long as you input the right stuff. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE5P33M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_G9NHzbZ3YAENK. Be super careful, watch and measure voltage regularly, and set the voltage conservatively low to start. I'd start at 3.7 volts per cell. Best of luck!

Well if you must know, Its a cremation box, usually sold for $20-30 on ebay. The Heating module and coil costed 13.00 from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The Button costed me 9.99 here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QBJVTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and the power supply costed me 11.11 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NR6FPN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


With shipping and Best offer accepted, i think im doing justice here. These were the best prices i could find at the time from MULTIPLE vendors. I have a Portside Mini in the mailbox tomorrow and THIS box has NEVER failed me in the last few months since built. It is a work in progress yes. It can be expanded and definitely worked on to make it much better. I would of taken $50 which is what they USUALLY sell for but i started it at 75.00. Im sure it will cost me about 7-10 to ship when wrapped properly. Not loony at all.

Exactly, yes! Everything that requires precise timings, instant response, and/or 5 volt logic would be on the Arduino and the Pi would just handle user interactions.

You could just get an Arduino Uno 3, that's kind of the standard Arduino board especially for people just learning. I just prefer the Mega because it is beefier and has way more GPIO pins. But the Uno 3 has enough to run three relays and your IR sensor easily (which has both 3.3 V and 5 V logic, meaning it can work with the Pi and Arduino respectively).

Speaking of relays, I really like the SainSmart ones and have never had an issue with them. This four-relay module is only $10:
https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-101-70-101-4-Channel-Relay-Module/dp/B0057OC5O8/ref=asc_df_B0057OC5O8/
Only thing is, and you might know this already, these things are pull-down rather than up. Meaning instead of pushing a 5V signal straight from a digital GPIO pin on the Arduino straight to the relay, you have to use a transistor to basically invert the signal. When the Arduino activates the transistor, it allows the pin on the relay board to go to ground which turns it on. Also, don't forget to always wire so the power off side is your closed side for all valves and such! The last thing you want if a board dies is to have the relay that controls your solenoid valve to default to power on, dumping all your liquid!

It definitely is overwhelming at first, but once you get really confident it opens up a whole new world of fun engineering!

Hopefully I'm not too late posting this. I need to install turn signals on my bike. The previous owner removed everything, the lights, controls, relay.

My question pertains to the controls. I originally was going to pick up a factory turn signal switch, but I sort of like the naked look. So instead I plan on using a micro SPDT toggle. I really want to install it into the bar itself, and not some type of holder.

My bars are 1.25", and taper to 1" OD at the ends. This means the ID is somewhere around 7/8" to 15/16". The problem is the smallest switch I've found has a total depth of 1.4", and has to be installed from the inside of the bar.

This is the switch.

I can't seem to find or think of a clean way to install them. The hole for the switch only needs to be 0.25". I haven't drilled yet, because I don't want to ruin the bars. The only way I've thought of is to drill an elongated hole, bend the terminals, and squeeze the switch through. But I'm pretty sure the nut for the switch won't conceal the hole.

Has anyone done this before? Or have any suggestions on how to accomplish this? Once I can figure this out, I also plan on adding micro push buttons for the horn and starter.

Thanks in advance, and sorry about the lack of metric measurements. :P

I'm not really pro-grade in this kind of stuff, however, if I were to go after something like this, an Arduino seems almost perfect. For anything you need to control, I'd use this type of relay designed to plug straight into Arduino IO pins and as far as the inputs, you could probably use relays wired up to a simple 5v source so you isolate the power within the pinball machine from clean 5v power for your Arduino.

As far as the display, instead of an LCD, I would probably chase some larger 8-segment displays, easier to see and much easier to control. One option would be to run 2 Arduino systems with one dedicated to the scoreboard and one dedicated to the automation.

ok, ramble off, but this sounds like a project I'd like to take on now...

This can be accomplished with a voltage converter and a voltage regulator design for solar power for less than fifteen bucks

EDIT: People wanted details.

Batteries, panel, wiring, tools, housings, not included.

There's a bunch of better guides online, but the main components are a voltage converter, and a charge controller to get your pi powered by battery while charging the battery with what solar is available.

I think their product requires more investment than that little hat, personally. Do you think that little thing is going to step down 12v-5v with good heat management? I don't think it handles power conversion, and there might be something else in the line before it, like a regulator. Maybe you need their 12v battery.

But like any kickstarter, no guarantee on delivery of product, or features so be skeptical.

(looking for guide that I used...)

The relay setup and wiring is not hard but it can be a bit confusing at first until you figure out the GPIO wiring and setup. With my setup I can control a power strip that the Pi (via Octoprint menu entry) can turn on or off via the relay as well as having LED lighting inside my enclosure controlled that can also be controlled from Octoprint. If you want to give it a go just pick up a relay and some connectors to wire it to the GPIO pins. Feel free to hit me up once you have the hardware and I can share my wiring and Pi GPIO config with you so you can get going quickly. I like the 4 channel relays since they are only a few bucks more than the 1 or 2 chan versions and it allows you to add devices in the future. They are under $10: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OC5O8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ahah! I knew there was some type of button/switch like that but I didn't know what it was called or where to look. It looks like I could get some limit switches like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WRN7FQB/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501434511&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=limit+switch&psc=1

Thanks for the idea. It will be much easier to add a switch than a photo resister the way I already have things wires.

Thanks for the safety advice, that's obviously something I want to be careful with. I'm looking at getting this keenovo 200x300mm heater and this SSR. What kind of fuses do you recommend for something like this?

Nice to hear. what do you think is going bad in the relays? Some of the lighting is actually on some heavy duty relays. The relays that power the 120 are actually powered by 120 themselves, Something like this Those relays obviously would last a lifetime for a small load around 15 amps. Pretty cheep solution with a little more work to have a z-wave relay control another relay but if It makes it last longer lol.

Edit: whats your set up like? What components are you using?

Wow Thanks for the descriptive response!


I'm not very great at electronics, but here is the exact switch I'm using.

As for power source, I'm probably going to use 110 VAC to power the 4 ch relay board. http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-101-70-101-4-Channel-Relay-Module/dp/B0057OC5O8

This is the solenoid I will be using


Thanks! Your post really helped me think it through. Just need to put it to work lol.

Remember you get what you pay for, but since you're just trying this out I found some cheap options on amazon:
Volt meter
3 position switch Keep in mind you need to make sure you match your inputs and outputs to the voltage the PLC I/O wants (120v AV or 24v DC)
Indicator light you can use as an output to turn on/off
Looks like the PLC wants 24vDC power so you'll need something like this to switch your 120 power from the wall.

67 available, $2.75 each, +$3 shipping to USA only.

https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=YBC64S7RA89NW

For 2S only. Under voltage detector set to 6.4v. Pfet for reverse polarity protection of timer and under voltage detector. Slide switch functions as an on-off. Dimensions are 76.05 x 16.35 x 1.6mm, copper weight is 2oz, ENIG (gold) finish and solder resist is blue.

• Parts: http://www.digikey.com/short/tnvh31
  
  
• Wiring diagram: https://www.dropbox.com/s/tfzxu652u1bjqud/PWM%201590G%20wiring%20diagram.png?dl=0
  
  
• 1590G drilling template: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ndq9osgwtgdluo2/PWM%201590G%20drilling%20template.pdf?dl=0
  
  This is what the board looks like once assembled
  
  Note: Pot value selected is 50K, if you have a preference for another value please find the same model with that different value. The timer frequency cap is labeled as ".1uF*" on the board. Again, select one of a another value if you have another preference.
  
  A spacer should be placed between the tact and board to give it a proper height. Laser cut delrin spacers will be included. (http://i.imgur.com/RVEMTEs.png)
  
  
  
  Alternate 12 x 12mm tact switches:
  
  http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PTS125SK85%20LFS/CKN9151-ND/1146883
  
  http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/430476085716/430476085716-ND/5209048
  
  http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ADTS25NV/679-2305-ND/2344311
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch-12x12x12mm/dp/B008420U92/
  
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-Momentary-Tact-Tactile-Push-Button-Switch-12-x-12mm-x-10mm-4-Pin-DIP-Cap-/351074434692

I would replace your discrete components with an Arduino Pro Mini. You can connect three output pins to some relays, and drive the LEDs with a 5V power supply. You'll probably want to put a resistor in series with each LED, instead of one resistor for the whole string, to minimize risk of damaging them: (5V-3.4V)/.025A = 64Ohms, so use somewhere between 50 and 75 Ohms for each LED. Alternatively, you could run the whole thing on 3.3V and skip the resistors, but those power supplies aren't so common. In that case you'd want the 3.3V Arduino. PM me if you need help programming the Arduino, it's pretty easy.

I've been told that the 6x6x9.5 or 10mm tacts work best for scuffing. if you want buttons I prefer the 6x6x8.5 tacts with caps.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O9VVVPY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UBWS9IW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008420U92?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MLKJ3C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

here are some versions I've been playing with. Hope this help!

If you want a hot fix, set pinmode to input instead of switching to high. Make sure there's no sort of pullup on the pin. I had good luck with the spi pins.

By setting it to input, the pin will hopefully go into a floating or hi-z state. If all is well, the relay will open when switched to input and close when switch to HIGH output.

Worked for me until I found some single 3v relays. You could also use transistors to convert signal to 5v.

Limit switches are very cheap, so you’ll pay more for shipping than the actual part itself. For example, the cheapest thing on amazon is a 10-piece set ($7)
https://www.amazon.com/URBESTAC-Momentary-Hinge-Roller-Switches/dp/B00MFRMFS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3

A lot of printers come with a spare, so if you have any friends with a printer, you might ask if they have any spares. Voltage/amperage doesn’t matter, it’s just a small 5V signal line so you won’t blow anything up.

The switch doesn’t even need to look the same as the original, it can be anything. It only matters that it “clicks” at the same spot each time, which all limit switches will do. This switch just tells the printer where the bottom of the print bed is.
The only thing that matters is that you have the same two mounting screw holes (which most of these limit switches have).

The limit switch isn’t axis-specific, meaning you could use the same switch for the X,Y, or Z axis.
When the button clicks, that’s the equivalent of touching the two wires together.

Edit: if you really want to save money, here’s a set for $4.80 https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pc-TEMCo-Micro-Limit-Switch-Lever-Arm-Subminiature-SPDT-Snap-Action-LOT/191202625167

Edit 2: if you live in the US, go to a local RadioShack. They’re roughly $1-2 there. https://www.radioshack.com/collections/switches/products/spdt-switch-without-roller?variant=20332090693

LAPOND SVD-ES Series Single Phase VFD Drive VFD Inverter Professional Variable Frequency Drive 1.5KW 2HP 220V 7A for Spindle Motor Speed Control(VFD-1.5KW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKJWM62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LukTCb6EFS90H


Might not be compatible to your voltage etc but a quick check on amazon has lots of these for short money. This is one of many.... good luck

I'm currently struggling with the same problem with my project.

You'd probably want to put a DHT11 in each pot attached to GPIO on the Pi.
The soil RH (relative humidity) could be used to determine whether to power a 12v pump or solenoid valve (if gravity fed).

Relays are super easy to set up and control using a Pi and relatively safe at 12v. The difficult question here is how to direct the water into whichever pot requires what amount of water. A naive approach is one pump per pot but that could get costly... hmm

I'm using this pump

I'm using this relay

Here's the code to read digital Celcius and RH from the DHT

I'm also considering adding an additional 'misting' nozzle to help control my super-hot (not ideal) environment :

Soil > Tempenature : 37.0 Humidity : 77.0


Feel free to follow up in PM if you have any questions.

[Here's a relay] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0057OC5O8?qid=1427254414&sr=8-6&vs=1#)

Wiring is pretty intuitive.

12v DC > Relay 1 blue connector 1

Motor positive wire > Relay 1 blue connector 2.

Connect Arduino ground and digital IO (set to output) pins to the pins associated with the relay that you chose, raise the DIO pin to High, and the relay will connect the motor to the power supply.

Technical note: These relays trip at 15-20ma, so there shouldn't be any issues using a DIO pin. If you choose a different relay, MAKE SURE the relay input draws less than 40ma, otherwise you may damage your Arduino. This relay board is also protected by diodes, so your Arduino is shielded completely from the 12v.

There's not much to it, depending on the relay you have.

Relay's have two parts, a coil and one or more sets of contacts. The coil is what controls the contacts. The coil is an electromagnet, and the contacts are reed switches. When the coil is energized, it causes the reed switches to engage. So by using the contacts as part of a circuit, you can make or break the circuit by engaging the relay.

Relay coils by themselves pull too much current to safely run one with a raspberry pi, so you'll most likely need a transistor to control the relay (a transistor can act more or less like a tiny relay with no moving parts).

If you've bought a pre-packaged relay board (such as one like this) then they've taken care of the transistor for you and all you have to do is hook VCC to the pi's 5V pin, the ground to the pi's ground, and the input you want to control on the board to the output on the raspberry pi.

There are plenty of tutorials out there that show you how to use python to control the pins.

On these particular relays, there are three terminals for the contacts, NO (normally open), common, and NC (normally closed). To switch a circuit you connect one wire to common (usually the middle terminal) and the other wire to either NO or NC depending on if you want the circuit to be On (NC) or Off (NO) when the coil is de-energized. Don't connect a wire to NO and the other to NC and expect anything to happen, they're not connected together. One wire must go to Common for there to be a complete circuit. You are free to connect to all three and switch your common line between two different circuits (one for NO and one for NC)

Sure! You'll need a relay to handle the higher voltage from wall outlet, or from the wiring in the strand itself. I have a 4-channel version of this that works great: http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-2-CH-2-Channel-Relay-Module/dp/B0057OC6D8

If you want a finished solution, Belkin makes WeMo devices you can control from an iPhone or Android, or setup trigger with IFTTT: http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Automation-Switch-Apple-iPhone/dp/B0089WFPRO

I use this one from amazon. It has a 120v coil so it is easier to control. I use a contactor the pool pump and one for the pool cleaner pump controlled with a dual relay z wave micro switch. But any z wave switch that you can mount will work. Many pool pump panels have a place for a switch to mount. Mine is inside the panel and works great.

Not the person you replied to, but I will try to help.

Electrical switches are relatively simple devices but because there are so many styles of switches available, what you are asking for is really not that simple.

The first question is: What style of switch do you want? Toggle, momentary toggle, push button, momentary push button, rotary, magnetic, rocker? There are literally hundreds of thousands of different switches available.

The next question is how will you be making the connection? Solder, crimp, barrel connector, dupont, molex, scotchlok, screw terminal?

And finally, how and where will you mount the switch? Inline on the wiring harness? Do you need to drill a mounting hole? Are you looking for something that comes with mounting hardware? Is there clearance for your switch location?

I know this is all new to you and I am throwing out a bunch of terms you may have never even heard before. The simple solution for you, at least at first, might be to wire your LED strip right into the output screw terminals of your power supply. Then when the printer is on your light is on, and the light is off when the printer is off. Just be sure to mind the polarity (red to +, black to -) and wire into the 24v dc output side and not the 120v ac input side of the terminal block.

If it helps, here is a short list of switches I have purchased for different projects (all of these require soldering and some kind of mounting hole or hardware):

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SUXW18S
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DS1GY0
https://smile.amazon.com/ZUPAYIPA-Solder-Rocker-Switch-Toggle/dp/B01N2U8PK0
https://smile.amazon.com/Magic-shell-5-Pack-Rocker-Position/dp/B07D285PLL
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ICKO30

Sure. Here's the contactor:

https://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-Pole-Contactor-Voltage/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=sr_1_2?crid=OIUJ07IZNPPX&keywords=30+amp+contactor+120v+coil&qid=1550624331&s=gateway&sprefix=30+amp+contact%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-2

And here's the box I used:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-Amp-240-Volt-Non-Fuse-Metallic-AC-Disconnect-TFN60RCP/100674085

It's an AC disconnect box but I just removed the disconnect switch and drilled a couple of holes to mount the relay. The ground bar is useful. Use 10awg romex for wiring it. I also used an inexpensive ($12) internet connected smart light switch that's compatible with google home and alexa to actuate the relay coil. Total cost around $30.

There's nothing wrong with your code, I just ran it and it works fine. Are you sure that you are wired up correctly?

• Are you on gpio21 (pin 40, lower right hand corner)?
  
  
• is your button connected to ground?
  
  
• If you are using one of those little 4 pronged momentary buttons, make sure that you have it connected correctly, 2 pins on each side are always connected to each other, so try moving 1 wire to a different pin.

Battery, Voltmeter, Wire, Pusher, Motors, MotorCover, Micro Switch, Charging Stuff, Charging Stuff, You're idea is pretty good, no comments on improvement.

Edit: Formatting

Honestly a board like this is way easier

4ch relay

See all the extra thing on there? Optos, transistors, resistors, and diodes. You need that in addition to the relay.

As far as a pi being enough to trigger, I’ve never tested. Someone else know?

Seems like it would be pretty simple - find a cheap/quiet air compressor, run the line through a normally-closed solenoid (found this for 11 bucks), and control the solenoid w/ the arduino. If the solenoid is higher than the 5V the arduino can supply, have the arduino power a relay or a power transistor, I use a 12 channel one of these to power solenoids for dispensing water and it works well. Sounds like y'all already have the code set up to do something similar, but give a shout if you need help with that part too

Probably the best way would be with a relay. They're electromagnetic operated switches and as a bonus the two circuits aren't connected so they can't interfere with each other. I bought a 4 relay version of this board and I can control it directly from an Arduino with only a couple of wires.

I moved shops recently and wanted to have piped dust collection so I started working on that. Somewhere while watching some videos I saw several where people had blast gates that switched the DC on and off and I was like that's awesome but they didn't go into much detail. I finally accidentally found one that gave a better idea of what products they used and bought the parts, tested it out and implemented it. It works great.

To turn on the collector I just open a blast gate. To turn off the collector I close the blast gate. Pretty simple and it makes it very hard to forget to close a blast gate and use another tool with reduced suction.

Short video of it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59u5zHttUn4

The parts I used:

• PowerSwitchTail II
  
• Micro switches
  
• 20/2 bell wire
  
  Edit: Oh and of all the methods I used to cut the DWV piping (bandsaw for shorter pieces and cleaning up, sawzall with a crappy miterbox-style 90 cutting guide and a handsaw in the same guide) the handsaw I think was the easiest to get a nice cut.

This.

I got one of these recently and it seems to work fine. Fairly cheap, super easy to use.

Take a look at using a contactor with a smaller relay to act as as a "bridge" to a MCU.

In other words (assuming you're working with two 120V "hot" legs and a neutral - verify this!):

https://imgur.com/fEHNtIr

You might want to use a 5V relay board to make it easier to wire.

Just make sure that you mount all the components in a safe enclosure (~$25 on Amazon).

Love the push/pull analogy. Thanks for that one, makes sense. Kind of a supply vs demand situation.

Yes, same power supply but only interact via a relay: GPIO2 on ESP-01 goes high (+3.3v, remember I'm still learning terminology here) when triggered via message, opens 3.3v relay (https://amzn.com/B01M0E6SQM) which connects 12v via step-up to gate remote which has it's button locked on. So 5v source split into 3.3v step down and 12v step up, separated by the relay downstream.

The setup allows me to skip two important features: needing to deconstruct/integrate with the remote board to replicate a button press (which would have been destructive) and needing to power off a battery (would have required ongoing replacement & cost).

Didn't take days. Less than an hour, but at the same time I've done about 3-4 of these before so I was already familiar with the inside of a 360 controller.

Here's the tall tactile switches you need for the paddles: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch/dp/B008420WOA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1394140371&sr=8-3&keywords=tactile+switches

That's 100 of them which is way too many, but only buying 3 or 4 is still only like $1 less...so I bought 100 and they've lasted me through various projects.

You also need (it looks like a lot more than it really is, but I'm being detailed)

• Hot glue gun
  
• Some kind of thin wire (salvages phone cable or wire from usb cable works)
  
• Some kind of material to make paddles out of (mine are heat shields from a Server CPU...but any kind of plastic/metal strip will work). I've made them from pen caps, erector sets, and prescription bottles before.
  
• Soldering Iron + Solder
  
• The correct driver to take apart your controller. The Xbone needs two special torx drivers.
  
• Drill and various bits. (If you have taps, that makes some of it easier as your screws wont be threading the plastic)
  
• Small screws to hold paddles on (I pulled mine from my random screw bin)
  
• Whatever screws you want for trigger stops (if you want them). I like knobby allen head screws so I can undo them by hand if I want
  
• If you want adjustable triggers some kind of small screws for that as well. I've done adjustable only on the right, both adjustable and neither. I'm on the fence about them. They helped with the FAL in BO2, but I never felt the need for them in ghosts.

In case anyone has this same problem, this opto-isolator board seems to have fixed the issue.

I was having issues with the limit switches triggering prematurely also, so I installed four of these boards (one per limit switch and one for the probe circuit) and installed an add-on board using this circuit and the probe and limit switches are now working perfectly. :)

I threw something together that i think would work for your circuit
Honestly though i wouldnt do what your doing and run amperage through a keyswitch, for one its not really safe and two depending on what fridge you use + powering a RPI you could easily surpass the typical 10A the switches have when the compressor comes on and spikes. You may be able to get away with it though, but im a fan of using contactor relays to prevent this. It will add another $10 to the build but its a mechanical relay that can control your hot line via a key switch, and only put a few milliamps through the switch at any given time, this switch would control the 5V power supply which would power the RPI, basically identical to how an electric brew panel would work.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2798684/BrewPiCustom.png

Obviously others should chime in if theres something glaringly wrong...i just threw it together in 5 minutes.

This is the power supply i bought to power my RPI in my electric brew panel
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LT2PGY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Cut a micro usb cable, wire to the power supply and plug into the RPI's usb port...easy.

This contactor is way overkill, im sure theres better/cheaper solutions im just posting what i know would work since its what ive used...others probably can chime in on this
http://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-Pole-Contactor-Volt/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31caQKUqB6L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0RJ3XDZRY4G14DRRN5K0

Don't. Use something like these.

I'm sure you could find them cheaper on Aliexpress or eBay, but I use these exact ones with NodeMCUs, WeMos D1 Minis, and WeMos D1 Mini Lites all the time. They work great.

Awesome dude. I was in the same spot as you. Ended up using some of these, but I have an LED fixture, so it's not drawing as much power at T5s. It works really great with the pi, and now I don't have to fuck with having 3 or 4 timers, and can change or control it all from my phone or computer without the pain in the ass of stooping under the tank.

I suggest getting a Motor Shield. AdaFruit has a good one, and so does the arduino store. I picked up a very good one for cheap on amazon. SainSmart L293D Motor Drive Shield Motor shields do require a second power supply though.

Yes, this shield supports up to 4 DC motors. What type of DC motors do you have? Specs?


They should ship to Australia.


Amazon also sells a similar shield made by SainSmart (http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-L293D-Shield-Arduino-Duemilanove/dp/B00813HBBO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369849137&sr=8-2&keywords=motor+shield). It's essentially the same design (since Adafruit's design is open source), just cheaper. I have one, but I have yet to test it to see if it is any different than Adafruit's. I'll report back later those results. If there is no difference, then you can save $8 on Amazon!

How much did you pay for it and how much are you willing to put into it to get it going? Your best bet, if you REALLY want to use it, is to get a cheap VFD ($75~$100 on Amazon) so that you can run the impact at the correct frequency which it is intended to run on.

You can put a standard 220V plug on the input side of VFD and then have a set of locking Hubbell plugs between the output side of the VFD and the tool.

With that said, when you are all said and done, you would probably be AT LEAST $150~$175 into getting it to run, not including what you already have into the impact itself.

Just my two cents.

Yeah, the arduino can supply only a couple mA from each IO pin, that pump likely needs 500-1000mA to run.

You can also use a relay for a more simple setup, like this board for example, it will let the arduino switch high current loads like the pump easily.

You can hook it up as they recommend for the 24v configuration but that just provides the same amount of power at a different voltage so that doesn't help.


If you hook up 24v to the 12v terminals, you will quadruple the power and double the current.


Ohm's law, 12V=(1.2ohm)(10A) or 24v=(1.2ohm)(20A)


You would probably need a 600W 24v power supply and all of your wiring needs to be 10awg at least.


Hook it up like this diagram shows, except your bed power will connect to the 24v psu instead of the 12v.

https://thingiverse-production-new.s3.amazonaws.com/assets/25/7d/4a/1d/63/D-Bot_Electrical_Diagram.pdf


Here's the relay used, be sure to heatsink it

http://www.amazon.com/Single-Phase-SSR-40DD-DC3-32V-DC5-60V/dp/B012SW6TB6/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1444750548&sr=1-6&keywords=solid+state+relay+dc+-ac

Just test it with the power supply before hooking it up to batteries? Still a good idea to have a fuse and some kind of current limiter, either resistive or one of those Drok board you can get on Amazon for $10.

If you want something a bit more straight forward Hobbyking has a packaged device that does the same and more... can’t find a link, I’ll post one when I find it.

Yeah, if you're not very experienced in electronics better stay with something already tested, specially for anything mains related!. Probably you could use one of these arduino relay boards, they're fairly cheap and are opto isolated to keep things safe.

Arduinos overlap quite a bit of PLC functionality. Instead of 24V, everything will be 3.3V or 5V. A PLC typically scans the ladder for inputs then executes everything "at the same time". In Arduino code, variables update immediately.

You'll probably want to look at Adafruit and Sparkfun for LCDs and buttons, as well as relay boards. Amazon carries some selection, but Adafruit and Sparkfun (for the most part) design and manufacture their own boards, so their support is a lot better. Note that if you use a lot of relays (>4), you'll need an external power supply to switch them all on at the same time since Arduinos can't provide enough current to drive tons of relay coils. The one I linked uses an external 12V supply, but I don't know if it's included.

I would highly reccomend getting VDF and a three phase motor. Why? Because with a VFD and a three phase motor you can vary the speed electronically, and you can find VFD's that take 110v or 220v, and they arent very expensive.

Heres a decent motor and VFD, Im going to be ordering this stuff for myself in the next month or two.

http://dealerselectric.com/33NCM-3-1-5-36.asp

https://www.amazon.com/LAPOND-Inverter-Professional-Frequency-VFD-1-5KW/dp/B01DKJWM62/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482190507&sr=8-3&keywords=vfd

This guy explains it pretty well in this unboxing video. This video made me decide to get this setup. (skip to 7:00 where he talks about the motor and VFD)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jaBZpKJ7H7U&t=1527s

Nothing directly. You'd need to set up a 2 pole contactor with a 120 volt coil and connect your conventional 120 volt smart switch to that. Since you already didn't know such a thing existed, I highly recommend you call an electrician to install and wire the panel.

Parts list is dependent on what controller you use. This is a decent one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0195V53X8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_n5DWCbX7WY6NB

You will need a box or container for the pid and wires. A temp probe that will work in the 500c temps. And a solid state relay. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Solid-SSR-25-3-2-32V-24-380V/dp/B0087ZTN08/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_3/147-7782181-2201822?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0087ZTN08&pd_rd_r=0b211574-6776-11e9-b475-c358acaaf9b4&pd_rd_w=As9SE&pd_rd_wg=uOeRp&pf_rd_p=3ecc74bd-d08f-44bd-96f3-d0c2b89f563a&pf_rd_r=X57XWHY664NJBVVBD0AS&psc=1&refRID=X57XWHY664NJBVVBD0AS&th=1

That's an example, I need to do more digging to make sure its capacity is ok. I think it should work.

In general, a pid controller says "turn on the relay when the temperature is between x and y. Turn off when the temperature reads z.

This type of probe would work

https://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Prime-TL1815-HeadProbe-Thermocouple-Temperature/dp/B0142S9J4S/ref=pd_aw_sbs_79_1/147-7782181-2201822?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0142S9J4S&pd_rd_r=49d6e55b-6777-11e9-af2b-df456cd2a423&pd_rd_w=eR1mx&pd_rd_wg=w1VKC&pf_rd_p=aae79475-6dc9-4a12-80e8-27b63108fa72&pf_rd_r=BHRC8SSGY71B2D18D2Q1&psc=1&refRID=BHRC8SSGY71B2D18D2Q1&th=1

I'm not sure about #1, but for #2, you're looking for jumper cables. These let you plug in components to the arduio/breadboard without having to solder. The eBay listing is a great deal, but you can buy them at Fry's Electronics if you have one local to you(also, the eBay link is from a Chinese seller, which could take a long time to get to you).

EDIT: I just took a look at the link you posted, and in the questions section there are people asking about how to power the shield and what kind of solutions they used.

The Wemo Switch can be wired to directly control the relay/contactor which should be more than enough.

You would just need to grab an enclosure and whatever plugs/outlets and a few bits of spare wire.

There are cheaper WiFi switches but I personally like the Wemo switches, you can set rules (like Auto-Off) or schedules and it works with IFTT for more advance stuff.

WeMo Light Switch, Wi-Fi enabled, Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DGEGJ02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8JkBybZJS8X0H

Packard C230B 2 Pole 30 Amp Contactor, 120 Voltage Coil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1IkBybGQNQV6G

From what I can tell its rated 5v but can't find anything about running it at a different voltage. This is the relay I have Link. I just tested it with 12v instead and it works with that as well but at the moment it is working again on 5v as well and I can't tell if it will make a difference with the higher voltage.

Not much to see yet. So far it is an R-pi, a few DHT11, a relay module, one (or maybe more) cheap PIR motion detectors, and a toggle switch.

I'm using Monkey webserver, and playing with some cgi scripting. I started piddling with HTML5, and I want to try to make it as nice as I can, but I am not a web developer, so I am having to slog through some of this. If it goes well, I might make a post in here or in /r/HomeAutomation

If you can solder make a scuf tbh

I am an electronics refurbisher and I have had scuf like products come in before and a lot of the time they end up being a controller with some holes drilled in it with paddles and a board you can find online for like 15$ and do yourself

https://www.amazon.com/Playstation-Dualshock-Board-Remap-Install-4/dp/B00SVHWMEQ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008420WOA/ref=pd_aw_sim_63_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JAERDCKTZASCC1X42QMP

arclight: yeah, i'm liking the idea of the board though. But I ended up buying http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OC5O8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Something like this should work.

If your battery is 100 amp hour, and your fan draws 5 amps it will last 20 hours(in theory).

So one like this or this work? Whats the difference between the two?

using this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F839VNQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A298K45OP416LP&psc=1 between the input and the relays would work?

I like the simplicity of the resistor idea but It's hard to tell how hot its going to get or what speed a particular ohm value is going to reduce it to until its all said and done.

You dont. At least not directly without killing the board. That said there are ready to go relay boards you can order if you want a simple solution, or go read the other comment about using a transistor, he/she is dead on on how to do it.

That said, a transistor is kinda like a relay. Perhaps that's all you need if you are running a small device like a few LED's or something else small.

I was thinking this for relays, but wanted something smaller.
I plan on switching at least 14 turnouts, which would require two of the boards shown above.

Mosfets are definitely where I'm going now.

I considered that and opened up my piano to see how much effort that would take, but I found that because it's an upright and due to how the strings are positioned some of them are not at all easily accessible. :( On the bright side, I found these which will serve my purpose; now I just need to figure out how to control this from a raspberry pi. Thanks for the suggestion however!

URBESTAC 250V 5A SPDT 1NO 1NC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MFRMFS6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I just used a spring I had laying around, no idea what the spring constant was. I would recommend a pretty stiff spring.

The enclosure I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TS6RY85/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AyhxDbV7EHBCN

The 5A power supply (5A and you don't have to use a mosfet): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01461MOGQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GzhxDbQWPT5QR

I used a glass slide tube for inside of the coil. You will have to rewrap the coil on the IH to fit around the slide, not hard at all: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FWYAWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MAhxDbTK5P2YY

The actual IH: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lChxDb0DGE3TM

The 5v switch w/ wiring harness (you don't need any extra wires this way): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075QBJVTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fDhxDb7HTYE19

A Unibit would be a good thing to have to get the 3 holes drilled in the box. A hotglue gun and a screwdriver and your set....

That's helpful. The relays are rated 10A t0 12A so the current is less than I'd assumed. I mean it should be less than the rating of the relay... big assumption, perhaps. It puts the current in the range of some low voltage PWM speed controllers sold on Amazon. My concern is the lower voltage is 6V and you need it to run down to 5-5.5V will it work? https://www.amazon.com/RioRandTM-Upgraded-6V-90V-Motor-Controller/dp/B00F839VNQ Better than a resistor if i works, depends on how much of a project you want to make of it.

One of these - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=twister_B07C1X6SHD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

​

It uses 120vac to throw the coil for the main load. From the comments, only a tiny fraction is necessary.

"The Actual, Factual, and measured Coil current at 110VAC is .04 amps or about 4 watts.The Coil does not draw .5 amps or 55 watts."

​

Given that Sonoff had issues in 2017 about insufficient solder on the POW power lines, I'm glad I sent mine back.

https://esp8266hints.wordpress.com/2017/03/01/itead-recall/

​

I think there's other Tasmota compatible relays. I'll see if I can dig it up.

​

The 120V part is the easiest and the most dangerous, so pay attention to it. A relay module like this acts like an SPDT switch ("changeover/three way switch") - or more like 4 of them. The light are wired up to the relays just like you'd wire up an ordinary room light to a switch.
The arduino just connects to the little pin header on the bottom and is completely isolated from the high voltage.

r/Arduino will be able to help you write the code (you'll only need the basics for this). IDK why the post was nuked, but you can make a new one asking about the optocoupler tapping of the speaker - it will require a bit of poking around to get an idea what sort of thing is going on in the speaker wires.

Those should work fine, but just for neatness is probably go for this 4 in 1 relay board https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQF5HU/

First of all I'd connect just the relay board to the Arduino and check it still works with your sketch, you should hear it click on and off when the LEDs should work.

Then sort out wiring your strip.

From personal experience:

LEDs? Yes. Absolutely.

Headlights and wipers? Yes, but the motors on the wipers would be interesting.

7 inch touch screen? There's one built for the Pi already.

Buttons? Yep. pygame could be written to handle all of that. I'm sure other languages could be used, that's just what I'm most familiar with.

10-15 relays? Yep. I personally use a 16-port mechanical switch for a project here at home. You can narrow that down to just a few pins if you know how to program an i2c.

5-10 analogues? Probably. Not sure how many GPIO are left over after using 16 for a relay.

Phone connecting via bluetooth? Not my area, dunno. I suspect so.

Will the Pi handle all of that simultaneously? Heh... easily. The stuff you're talking about is very very simple. It's a lot going on, but the processing power it requires would be hardly nothing at all.

I still would absolutely recommend against it. At least put the headlights on the 'on' position on the relay so if the pi dies, the headlights are auto-on. Take the wipers off of the Pi. That going bad in a rainstorm or snowstorm could be hell.

> How did you have the relay connected to the GPIO?

Through this board, which seems to be properly (opto) isolated.

> how were you powering the whole setup?

USB of the Raspberry Pi to a wall wart.

> sounds like latch-up

If you still think it could be a latch-up (given the board I'm using), how would you recommend preventing it?

I have build a C-Bot and am currently using a Fotek 40A SSR you can get off of amazon. This was the listing recommended by the creator of the C-bot in his rework design btw. I have it attached to the aluminum extrusions directly with some heatsink compound between them and it barely gets warm during operation.

You want one of these (or something similar).

The coil connections go to the switched power coming from your smart switch - one to the phase, one to neutral.

Each phase wire (I think US colours are normally red and black, don't touch the earth) should go through the contacts.

Edited to remove BBCode...

The switch will be connected directly to the pi's GPIO, which will control a relay. The electrical wiring in the walls will be connected to that relay which is connected to the light. I'll be using a 2 channel relay, something similar to the link below. There are also 8 channel relays, so you can control 8 devices with only 1 Pi. I plan on using an 8 channel relay for a Pi controlled thermostat. Also, prices are much cheaper on eBay if you're willing to wait a few weeks for shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-2-CH-2-Channel-Relay-Module/dp/B0057OC6D8

But yes that would also work if you want to wirelessly control the relay, you just have to be connected to your WiFi.

The way I do it is with an Arduino and a 16-Channel Relay Module.

http://arduino.cc/

http://amzn.com/B0057OC66U

If you want the actual sound to play outside, you can do that with a sound board, speakers, and a cheap power supply.

http://www.adafruit.com/products/2217

Then you program the lights to trigger however you want.

Here's the relays I used. The reviews have some good documentation on current requirements and such. I ran 12V to the Vin of the relay boards, as well as to the common terminal of all 32 relays (since the goal was to supply 12V to an ematch when the cue was triggered). The positive end of the cue terminals were connected to the NO terminals of the relays. This means that normally, the ematches are disconnected. When a relay is triggered (by setting an Arduino pin to ground, thus triggering one of the active low relays on the board), the match on that relay is connected to the 12V source. Since the negative terminals on the channels are already grounded, boom.

E-match will detonate with around .5A of current, though most people recommend 1A per match to be sure. This is how we determine how many matches can be fired from one cue; we divide our 12V source by the resistance of all of our matches in series (typically around 2 ohms each) and ensure we can still supply 1A of current. Once the matches detonate, the circuit is broken. Does that clarify things?

Ok so looking into SSR's a little more I think I found one I can use. would this be what I want to use to turn on and off the 100W ceramic heating element and the fogger?

Ok so the heat bed is here:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/200X200mm-400W-12V-w-NTC-100K-Thermistor-Keenovo-Silicone-Heater-3D-Printer-Heater-Heatbed-First-Grade/210086_32230108542.html
and the relay is here:
http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Solid-State-SSR-25-24-380V/dp/B0087ZTN08/
(thanks to BillDaCat)

Where is the metal brace thingy? (or is that part of your printer? Or the fiberglass part?)

Something like this should work. Just don't turn it past 60% or so.

Something like this I would think, you will just need to search out one rated for your voltage req. RioRand™ Upgraded 6V-90V 15A DC Motor Pump Speed Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F839VNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TuI3Db0B6842P

LED strip (12V, 60 LEDs/m, 5050 LEDs) is darn cheap, fairly bright, and all over the internet. Here's 5m of white on Amazon. If that's not bright enough, you can get higher lumen LED arrays that run on 12V.

You could use some little toggle switches or maybe rocker switches.

SSRs aren't hard to wire up and are a lot cheaper. I bought 20 of them on ebay for ~$20. If it's 12 V relays work well too. Amazon has a card that can control 16 relays for $40.

Yeah, I have ordered the resistors and breadboard, and will not repeat the 3v to 5v "solution" again.

But I'm curious where the failure is, exactly. Inside one of the components?


There's no documentation with the SainSmart 16 relay board, so I don't know if there are snubbers on the coils, but I'd be surprised if there were.


The opto-isolators are in place, so I wouldn't think the logic circuitry would be jeopardized by surges from deactivated coils.

These. They are a bit tall, but it's fine.

You don't really have to adjust voltage. A PWM speed controller can be used for the same purpose (adjusting average voltage) and they're much cheaper. A 10A PWM speed controller can be purchased from Amazon for $11 shipped. Most of them will output in the same voltage you supply.

https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-trade-Upgraded-6V-90V-Controller/dp/B00F839VNQ

Information Fire Hose

it's a common arcade button replacement micro switch.

if you dont have a bunch of arcade buttons sitting about and need to order a part to do the mod, get these instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MFRMFS6 . it will make the pedal action not snap so much, and because you don't need so much force you can put it closer to the middle if you like.

the switch is attached to the side with 1" #4-40 screws and nuts... but if you plan to gig or tour it, buy nylon lock nuts for them or the shit will fall off constantly.

the jacks I used are also stereo, and the freeze trigger is on the tip and ring to avoid chassis grounding issues affecting the audio signal path. I just used a normal aux input cable to wire it.

happy soldering :P

(edits, I hate typing on mobile)

I didn't have a relay picked out yet, I'm kind of in the brain storming stage right now. I came across this board on amazon and thought it might do the trick:
https://www.amazon.ca/SainSmart-101-70-101-4-Channel-Relay-Module/dp/B0057OC5O8/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1486504628&sr=8-21&keywords=usb+relay

It says it has a Standard interface that can be controlled directly by microcontroller (Arduino , 8051, AVR, PIC, DSP, ARM, ARM, MSP431, TTL logic)

Maybe i'll give it a go.

your standard issue songle. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OC6D8

i took an old 5v straight wired micro usb cable and lopped off the usb end (the other end is part of the power supply not usb-a) and split the +5v into two legs, one powering the esp8266 (it's a nodemcu board) and the other leg providing power to the relays. ground is common to the entire system.

i haven't tested these (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CQKMPDP) in the cold but one of them has been the heat "switch" for my esp8266 basement thermostat.

If you are having trouble with z-wave signal maybe wifi would be better. Hook up a sonoff to a contactor. You could do it for less than $20.

https://imgur.com/a/q00X4SF

https://www.itead.cc/smart-home/sonoff-wifi-wireless-switch.html

https://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-Pole-Contactor-Voltage/dp/B001KGSJ74

I think you need the 12mm ones

http://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch-12x12x12mm/dp/B008420U92

I have been using an all-in-one Sainsmart Relay to control my garage door via the Pi.

Here you go

This is the spare relay i have laying around. I believe it's DC to DC, right?

Currently it's an Arduino running an AD9851 module which is then connected to a pretty shameful homebrew amp. I also have it connected to a cheap relay board. One relay is used to switch power to the amp, the other switches the antenna feed between the amp output and the SDR chain (preamp, Ham It Up, RTL-SDR).

For software I've written some stuff to send RTTY and Morse.

SainSmart 2-Channel Relay Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057OC6D8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mgsFDbSR97ZA7

And the pi needs to have the pin initialized as an input / output pin. It must be getting a slight amount of current when just powed on but not initialized?

This?
https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-trade-Upgraded-6V-90V-Controller/dp/B00F839VNQ

https://www.amazon.com/API-ELE-Momentary-Waterproof-Stainless-Self-Reset/dp/B079GNNSRP/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541366661&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=waterproof+push+switch&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Quentacy-Momentary-Waterproof-Stainless-Suitable/dp/B075QBJVTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1541366661&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=waterproof+push+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=410iuxGxhhL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/TOTOT-Automatic-Self-Reset-Waterproof-Dustproof/dp/B07C4T6XT5/ref=mp_s_a_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1541366780&sr=8-19&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=waterproof+push+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41UbL7CKvtL&ref=plSrch

http://smile.amazon.com/SainSmart-4-CH-4-Channel-Relay-Module/dp/B0057OC5O8/

I ended up buying this relay module so I can actually switch both the lamp and the printer from the Pi.

I don't think Kite specifies a type of button. These will work though: https://www.amazon.com/9-5mm-Momentary-Tactile-Button-Switch/dp/B008420WOA

This motor controller!

Using your Arduino you can wire a relay and control it from your phone or computer

The board I bought is a 12v (since the solenoids are 12v), here's a link to it: SainSmart 16-Channel Relay Module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057OC66U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_FCvSub144A8GM

I decided to do PWM. If I use a transistor I won't need a heat sink, right? Will I need any capacitors?

these are the parts I've found so far (Other than motion sensors, short jumper wires, and other common items)

Transistor \

Relays/ One or the other, transistors preferably

Wires

Nano Every

Breadboard(s)

Barrel Jack

Soldering Iron

Solder

Lights + Cable - Would the cable work with the barrel jack to provide power for the Nano Every and the LEDs?

Potentiometers

I can lend you 2 of these:
https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-101-70-103-16-Channel-Relay-Module/dp/B0057OC66U/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1501860037&sr=8-6&keywords=sainsmart+relay

You can control any AC load within reason using a relay module. For example: http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-2-Channel-Relay-Module-Arduino/dp/B0057OC6D8/

As for temperature control, you should look in to using PID.

this http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-70108-Tracked-Vehicle-Chassis/dp/B00061HHTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367962437&sr=8-1&keywords=arduino+tank
this http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Double-Gearbox-Independ-4-Speed/dp/B000C8F802/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367962437&sr=8-2&keywords=arduino+tank
and thishttp://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-L293D-Shield-Arduino-Duemilanove/dp/B00813HBBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367962500&sr=8-1&keywords=adafruit+motor+shield

Non-mobile: Here's a relay

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Right here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OC5O8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The switch I'm using is this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DFYDNE?keywords=toggle%20switch&qid=1449860351&ref_=sr_1_15&sr=8-15

It has 3 positions (ON on each side, OFF in the middle I believe) and 3 places to connect

This is the relay board I'm using. I'm going to use two separate arduinos to turn each one on (using "or" logic). I don't have a lot of experience using diodes, what exactly would I use? And do you mean literally I do:

Arduino1->Digital out->diode->Relay input1, then
Arduino2->Digital out->diode->Relay input1

Ya one minute I tried start_music_and_lights and they just turn on. I tried all 3 of the testing commands on the website and the lights turn on and nothing happens. I have pins 0-7 connected on my pi 2b and the 2 5v pins are connected to the relays 5v pins and 2 ground pins are connected to the 2 ground pis on my relay. The relay has an external power source of 12 volts
This is the relay I am using. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OC66U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's one that would work: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KGSJ74

See my other post for more detailed instructions.

I've got a relay from amazon connected to some of the GPIO pins, then a simple website I made on the pie that when I press a button on it, it flips the relay. The relay is wired to the door open button and does the same thing as me physically pressing the button in the garage. I also have it monitoring for an amazon dash button press that will also trigger the relay, that is by the front door so I can open the garage on my way out the door if I need.

​

However, this has all been running for 4+ years, I tried to review how I pieced it all together about a year ago and couldn't remember or figure out all the pieces, but it still continues to work, so I can't give much more detail than that sorry.

for a beginner, I would not recommend you do this. but if you will anyway, I suggest this: http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-101-70-101-4-Channel-Relay-Module/dp/B0057OC5O8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1462302659&sr=8-4&keywords=3.3v+relay

I used LED tape found off Amazon...super cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just used 22 gauge wire I got from Home Depot to solder the positive / negative to a 12v power supply. To turn the lights on and off, I just used a cheap limit switch:

https://www.amazon.com/URBESTAC-Momentary-Hinge-Roller-Switches/dp/B00MFRMFS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536763141&sr=8-3&keywords=limit+switch

​

I'll try to take some pictures when I get home tonight.

The hoist shares the ground and one of legs that powers the motor also powers the arduino. Ill try and sketch up a circuit quick. The relays I am using are [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OC66U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which as far as I can tell have diodes and are optically isolated.

Hi Shadow, thanks for the response, the relay I'm using is this one from Amazon.

I connected the relay to the 5V power rail that's hooked up to the Arduino. The ground for the relay is connected to the ground of the Arduino. The signal wires are directly hooked up to the Arduino digital outputs (5,6,7). I have a photo of the circuit, but I must admit it's not the best picture.

http://i.imgur.com/tDr0nTw.jpg

Another thing I noticed, was that this occurred even when I disconnected the Arduino and just ran a 12V source through the component, it was worse when it was connected to the Arduino.

Not just from prusa, pick and choose. URLs for examples.

Digital caliper, 12" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EJUBBU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extra brass nozzles.

Hardened steel nozzle, 0.4mm to 0.6mm for printing abrasive exotics (wood, glow in the dark, carbon fiber etc)

Print removal tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VB1U886/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Locktite blue bolt-fixer (Walmart, Home Depo, Lowes etc) to stop bed sensor from moving.


High temp anti-seize for nozzle threads https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053ZS1Z8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Raspberry Pi 3, 5v Pi 2A Power wart, Micro SD card, & Webcam for octoprint monitoring.

Relay board for Pi/octoprint to power up & down printer remotely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OC5O8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1lb of silica gel to keep filament dry.

Filaments, various.

Fire extinguisher rated for electrical fires.

Dedicated smoke alarm.

I'm not clear what you mean by I/O board? If it's just the gpio header on the pi itself, it's 3.3v but at 10mA, maybe 12mA? Enough to drive a signal, but not enough to energize a coil. (If you do have a separate board, you'd have to either lookup the specs for it, or let us know which one so we can figure it out.)

So you'll need something to use that to push a relay. Typically a darlington pair, an optoisolator, or a trip to Amazon.

I'm cheap and lazy, so I regularly use either these, which are 3v modules, or these which are awesome, but do need 5v drivers (I usually use an MCP23018 between the pi & the relay board - you'll find a shedload of documentation for this on the googles, but I'll shout-out adafruit's docs specifically). For the sainsmart ones, when they say 12V, they mean you'll need a separate 12V supply to push the relays themselves, they're not expecting 12V from the pi.

These will get the pi to drive n/c & n/o dry contacts you're used to, but I note you also asked about triggers - relay boards won't help protect inputs, so be warned that the inputs are also 3.3v and have very little tolerance (5v will kill them, let alone 24V. Anything you put in the IO lines goes straight into the CPU, so be gentle).


A couple of projects you might want to look into if you want to let someone else worry about the interfaces;

• Kunbus Revolution - not cheap, but Germans doing things the german way, to proper grownup specifications
  
• UniPi - looks more expensive, but works out well when you figure out how many Kunbus modules you'd need to get that many IO (if you just get the board that is. Their housings add grownup prices quickly)
  
• Pimoroni automation hat - Isn't trying to be industrial, isn't trying to charge industrial prices. When they say 'SRS BSNS' they mean 24v, not IEC61131. I went this direction in the end, because I'm cheap.
  
  

Have no fear! You have a simple task ahead of you.

If I was doing this, I would use the following:

1. Relay Board
   This bad little boy can handle 250 VAC at 10 Amps (which is going to be way more than you need). It has 4 relays, so you could control up to 4 drills or other widgets if you needed to. Each relay has a NO (normally open), NC (normally closed), and C (common) Contact.
   
   
2. Arduino Uno
   This little bad boy is how you control that relay. You can write a very simple program on your computer that you put on this device (I am talking like 3 lines of code) that will turn a digital output on for 7 second, then off. Hit the reset button and it does it all over again! The digital output on this board will get a wire stuck over to the input on the Relay board above.
   
   
   How this all works: Take a simply extension cord (unplugged, obviously) and open up the insulation. There are usually 3 wires in it, black, white, and green (these can vary, so be careful and choose correctly). Take the Black or White wire and cut that bitch. One end of the cut wire can be stuck into the common terminal of the relay board. The other end can be stuck into the NO (normally open) terminal. What this will do is that when the Arduino board sends 5 volts to that relay, it will switch. This will connect the Common and NO terminals together, allowing power to flow through it to the drill. On the drill end I would just zip-tie or rubberband the trigger so it goes on when the relay changes.
   
   
   CAUTION 120 volts or 220 volts (depending on where you live) can be very dangerous!!! That relay board will have open terminals. Because of this I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you put it in some kind of plastic case. I would also run electrical tape over the pins on the underside of the board to make sure you can't zap yourself.
   
   When I get home I can draw you up a wiring diagram if you like and I could give you the basic code you would need.
   
   Good luck!