So I recently got a Philips Fidelio X2, Syba Sonic DAC/Amp, and a V-moda Boompro mic, and I wanted to share some thoughts.

My goal was to get something easy, convenient, and quality for gaming but still good for music and movies (aka, a fun v-shape sound signature), while still being open back. Like others, I've gone back and forth on a million different combinations of headphones, mics, dacs, amps, etc. I felt like I was going crazy...

"Well, I could get a Beyerdynamic... but most of their affordable stuff have fixed cables... I could get the SHP9500... but I hear bass is lacking... I could get a Sennheiser HD58X... but then I can't use the V-moda... I could just do a table mic... but then it starts getting too cluttered... etc., etc., etc."

Finding the right combination of my nitpicky requirements is a goddamned nightmare.

I finally settled on a used pair of X2s, thanks to Reddit, actually. Figured they would have the fun sound signature I was looking for, plus the open-back design I'd like for gaming (and just in general), plus the compatibility of the V-moda Boompro and the Syba Sonic DAC/Amp that works so well with the Boompro all at an affordable pricepoint.

And if you're wondering, yeah, I was influenced by ZReviews. I realize now that he jumps on some things and hypes them up probably too quickly, but if anyone has seen his reviews on the SHP9500, Fidelio X2, or the Syba Sonic, it really does seem like a dream come true for someone like me who is looking for a really good all-arounder for gaming, music and movies.

Before I get specifically into the X2, just so you know where I'm coming from, my long-time daily drivers have been the very affordable Superlux HD681. They're very cheaply built, the stock earpads are utter garbage, they're bright, they have a pretty damn wide soundstage, they're incredibly good for gaming for the price, and they're still no slouch on bass and bass extension (although they certainly lean toward high trebles.

I picked up some Sennheiser HD 4.40BT recently because I wanted something portable and wireless. They're decent, but they're uncomfortable and they sound so muddied compared to my much cheaper Superlux.

Anyway, onto the X2...

Build Quality

Initial impressions are that these are well built. Feel very sturdy and rugged yet still sleek, if not a tad too heavy.

The headband is incredibly comfortable. In fact, so far in my time with headphones, these are by far the most comfortable pair of headphones I've ever worn.

That being said, while the clamping force is nice and light and doesn't put much pressure on my ears or jaw, the clamping force is almost too light. It causes them to sag on my head and it means the tops of my ears are what's ultimately doing most of the work keeping the headphones on my head. This also means that if I simply look around too quickly (like, not vigorously shake my head but literally just look in one direction or the other too fast) they literally fall out of place. Very annoying. I like how comfortable they are, but they need more clamping force.

Also, I feel like they creak. I can literally hear them creaking when they're on my head and I move around a bit. It's not the end of the world, but I feel like that shouldn't be happening with headphones that are in the "mid-fi" price range.

I have no idea what the stock pads are like, because I bought them used and the guy had these on them. I will say that those Hifiman velour pads are hella comfy, but they messed with the sound signature in a way I didn't like (more on that in a sec).

So, yeah...comfy, built well, detachable cable is a HUGE fuckin plus, but they need more clamping force and they have a tendency to creak.

Sound and Stuff

I'm no audiophile, so I'll try not to pretend like I am.

When I first got these, my initial impression was "FUCK these are way too dark and muddy." Just like when I first tried the Sennheiser HD 4.40BT (in comparison to my Superlux HD681), I felt like there was practicaly 0 treble. Like, not v-shaped sound signature but a fucking high, inauthentic bump in the bass and then a sharp fucking drop off the side of a cliff.

"Where are the vocals?? Where are the guitars?? Where is the clarity??" is what I kept asking myself.

Unlike the HD 4.40BT, though, I tried not jumping to conclusions and I gave them some time to fester.

Here's one easy change that made a big difference: I had these cheap Cosmos earpads lying around from my Superlux HD681 and I swapped them onto the X2s. They're not as comfortable (although still comfy in general) and they're not nearly as thick, so therefore they brought my ears closer to the drivers, and BOOM...suddenly I had treble again!

I've heard some people say they think X2s are too sibilant, which is crazy to me. While I did get my treble back, they're far from being overly high. They're kind of just right now. Honestly, a simple earpad swap was almost all these needed (for me at least).

Sound clarity was still a bit muddy to me. And that's been the most disappointing thing for me.

Bass is there, treble is (now) there, mids are recessed like a lot of reviews claim, which is all perfectly fine with me, but it still feels muddy compared to my Superlux HD681. The Superlux HD681 feels more tinny to me now that I've tried the X2s for a little bit, so I'll happily take the X2s over the Superlux now, but I still feel like I can separate instruments, vocals, etc. I guess that would be called imaging?

A couple other changes helped that, though...

EQs and DAC/Amps

Like I said, I got the Syba Sonic DAC/Amp almost entirely for its usability with gaming. It gives me a mic input and a headphone output which is perfect for the V-moda boompro mic, plus a treble and bass boost, plus a volume knob.

For under $40 this was really all I needed. I have to say, it's been fun playing around with the treble and bass boost. It doesn't work in all instances, but there have been some songs where I reeeally want that bass, and the bass boost gives it to me. Other times when it just feels too muddy or grainy, the treble boost at least helps with clarity and I feel like I can pick songs apart a little better.

Also, I finally delved into the world of equalizing with Equalizer APO and these particular measurements for the X2. For the uninitiated, I guess these are a bunch of equalizer settings for tons of headphones that are designed to make the headphones as neutral as possible. After reading a quick tutorial on how to work Equalizer APO I got it working, and I have to say it has made a real difference.

The X2s went from muddy, grainy, and lacking clarity to being (at least for me) decently more neutral and much cleaner and clearer. That being said the suggested -6.1dB gain seemed to make it so that my DAC/Amp just doesn't quite get loud enough. I changed that to closer to -4.0dB and now I seem to get a decent range of volume like before (although still not as much).

It did lighten the bass on the X2s, which is a bit of a downer. There are certain songs that really need the punch, but I'm still new to equalizers and too afraid to mess around with it too much.

All in all, the Cosmos earpads, Syba Sonic and EqualizerAPO changed these X2s waaaaay more than I honestly assumed they would. Honestly, kind of transformed them.

Quick Note About Soundstage

Since I also wanted these for gaming, I feel like I should mention soundstage.

I've heard some people say the X2s have amaaazingly wide soundstage and I've heard others say it almost has no soundstage whatsoever.

All I can say is that after going back and forth betwen the X2s and the Superlux HD681 in Overwatch, PUBG, and Fortnite, I feel like they are at least just as good as the Superlux if not better, which is plenty good enough for me since the Superlux have been my gold standard of gaming soundstage for qutie a while now.

Last Thoughts

So, did I get what I wanted? Ummm...mostly? I totally get now why people start "chasing the dragon" when they start getting deep into a hobby. There are so many specific things you want, and you begin to feel as though literally no company has actually even produced the thing you're looking for. It's almost like it doesn't exist.

Although, more than likely, you just haven't found it yet.

It took some messing around with earpads, a DAC/Amp, and an equalizer to truly get what I wanted out of these X2s, but I'm glad I didn't write them off immediately.

That being said, while the Fidelio X2s aren't giving me the clarity and imaging that I desire, they do have a found sound signature and they are a good choice for an all-arounder (gaming, music, movies, etc.).

You can get the bass that is surprisingly punchy for open-back headphones, you can get a soundstage that's decent enough for casual gaming with friends, they have that ever-elusive detachable cable, and some tweaks here and there can get you some cleaner treble.

I'm happy, but then I'm disappointed. I'm happy again, and then I'm disappointed again...such is the case of having too many criteria.

Yeah it's crazy the little details we think are super important when getting into a hobby that seem to be pretty unimportant later on. I had a Lamy Safari as my first pen, but going into it I thought that the snap cap would be a huge issue. I thought it would be super loud or annoying to put on and off or something like that. Turns out it's not even a problem now that I've got the pen lol.

That pentel looks awesome! I really like the simple and classy look of it. That's a big reason I like the Lamy 2000. It looks like a black pen at first, but is much cooler once you really look at it.

Honestly with speakers, cheap stuff is a lot more fun that expensive stuff to me. I've got a pair of Quad Z-3 towers. Yeah, of course they sound good. If they cost that much and don't, there's a big problem. The thing I like about cheaper speakers is how they all have a very fun character. Once you're spending a lot of money, every speaker out there just tries to sound exactly the same. Cheaper speakers do different stuff though. There are some speakers that focus on midrange, so vocals sound really sweet and warm. There are some that focus on the top end, so you get every little detail up top. There are some that focus on dynamics, so you get that "front row of a concert" sorta feel. I like experimenting with all that stuff. It's just fun. And you don't have to spend a ton of money and get those KEFs to really get into it.

Just for fun, I'll build a cheap setup for you, so you'll know what to get in the future if you ever feel inclined haha.

The Micca MB42X are really the "go-to" starter speaker. They're one of the cheapest that sound decent. And, honestly, they sound really good.

SMSL SA50 to power them. That's on sale for the same price as the SA36 right now. They're the same thing, just this has more power. You don't need it, but you might as well have it haha.

Some speaker cable. You need to cut it and strip it to put it into the speakers. There are quite a few tutorials out there on it. It's pretty easy.

Cable to plug it in.

Boom, just like that you've got a sweet stereo speaker setup that will blow any single speaker out of the water, and easily impress anyone! It comes to around $150 with everything.

I'm not trying to talk you into anything, but I'm basically pointing out that you don't have to spend thousands of dollars to get a respectable system.

While we're on this, another thing I like about hobbies is that anyone can be in it at any price range, and that's super cool to me. If someone only has money for a $15 Pilot fountain pen, who cares? That's awesome that they like fountain pens! They don't need to have a $200 fountain pen to be cool. Just anything is sweet. Same with speakers. You don't need a multi thousand dollar system to be "into audio" or whatever you'd call it. If you've got a setup that you like, at whatever price, that's sweet! I'm glad we both enjoy music.

part 2/2

Second, there are ways to take a more cost-effective approach. I always bring up the physics example of the apple falling on Newton's head, which made him realize gravity existed, and then he dedicated his whole life to figuring out the formula for gravity; then you saunter up to science class one day, learn F=ma, and that's that! Likewise, a lot of smart & persistent people have worked hard to create formulas for food, called recipes, which you can try & learn & get good results at simply by following their step-by-step checklist.

Part of getting good at cooking is learning the underlying tools, technique, and knowledge required for flavor combinations, food pairings, spice mixes, cooking methods, etc., but part of it is also just burning through a bunch of recipes & getting exposure to good results & to various processes, without having to master every single one right off the bat & then think up new ways to use them. So in addition to learning how to cook in general, I'd also recommend simply following a bunch of recipes initially, rather than trying to re-invent the wheel, which can help you get better results initially, simply because you have proven instructions to follow! There are a million great resources for doing this; I'll share just a few here:

• Website: Serious Eats: Most recipes are split into a detailed explanation & then a separate page for the recipe itself. Excellent learning resource!
  
• Book: The Food Lab: By Kenji of the Serious Eats website. This is a really excellent book to learn cooking step-by-step, complete with full-color pictures & detailed explanations.
  
• Website: ChefSteps: An excellent resource for detailed recipes from the company that makes the Joule sous-vide machine (note that not all recipes are sous-vide!)
  
• Show: Good Eats with Alton Brown (on TV or available to purchase online); lots of detailed walkthroughs & tribal knowledge shared in each episode.
  
• Book: Modern Sauces: 150 sauces, plus great explanations to build up your knowledge about sauces. One thing I've realized over time is that most restaurants create amazing flavor through their sauces, whether it's something as basic as Big Mac sauce at McDonald's or a super fancy steak sauce at an elegant, high-end restaurant.
  
• Show: "Wok Star" by Eleanor Ho: She teaches a fantastic, recipe-free workflow for creating stir-fry dishes using a wok & a hi-heat portable burner. Note that you can buy the discs (which are just simple recordings of her classes) & printed materials separately from the wok & burner if you already have the tools. She's put together a really great system for teaching wok cooking, so if you're interested in learning the "flowchart" for quick & healthy meals using the stir-fry method, this is the best resource I've ever come across!
  
  Third, it helps to have some good introductions to the different aspects of food. Here's a few links to read to help kick-start your education process:
  
  
• Basic cooking advice & approach
  
• How to cook a chicken breast so it's good every time
  
• A quick discussion about "master" recipes
  
• Introduction to spices
  
• How our bodies works in relation to food & a bit more on food & exercise
  
• A quick introduction to complete foods
  
• My approach to meal prep & a bit more information on the Look Book
  
• Some tips for getting organized in your kitchen (kitchen part specifically is a few posts down)
  
  Anyway, learning how to cook can definitely be discouraging & can absolutely be a money-drain, because you're going to have to make a lot of mistakes, due to the learning process, and make also a lot of just plain mediocre food before you start hitting some home-runs. I'd recommend making sure that you have a recipe storage system for capturing the recipes & workflows you really like.
  
  I'd also recommend adopting the "growth" mindset when it comes to cooking, because it's easy to quit in the face of setbacks & label yourself as a terrible cook or view cooking at home as hard or dumb or whatever. If you look at cooking from a big-picture perspective, you're going to be alive until you die, and you've gotta eat every day, so imo at least, it's totally worth learning how to cook so that you can save money & enhance the enjoyability of each meal that you cook while you can!
  
  I think part of that is just accepting that it's going to take some time & practice (and money) as you grow & develop your skills, your personal recipe database, and the various workflows available for things like making breads or grilling or stir-frying or whatever you want to dive into. Probably the best way to save money, at this point in your cooking education, is to find & follow top-rated recipes. Pinterest has a pretty good algorithm for bubbling up really good recipes, so if you type in "chocolate-chip cookie" into the Pinterest search & try a recipe (exactly as printed, step-by-step) on the first page of results, then you're likely to get much better results than just winging it...while also building up your cooking skills in the process & getting that background knowledge & hands-on time required to get better at cooking!

And yes, people are complaining because it simply is not up to par with other similar priced units available. So I hope you'll eventually stop recommending these PSUs. I've seen you recommend them very frequent and just really don't like it.

JonnyGuru is an awesome PSU reviewer for sure, it's my go to reviewer for sure.
But he's not the only reviewer out there that really looks into a PSU it's inner details.

---

Here is a review from TechPowerUp, that states the exact reason why a lot of people do not suggest the EVGA NEX G1 650/750W units.

> "Voltage regulation was not so good. Only the 5V rail did well. The other rails registered relatively high deviations that exceeded 3%. Also,the performance on Crossload tests is disappointing; the propriety group-regulation scheme that the FSP used on the secondary side of this unit is to blame for this. Finally, the 5VSB rail had a problem keeping its voltage above the minimum limit that the ATX spec sets during the 110% load test, but we won't take its 5VSB failure into account seriously since we operated the PSU out of its specs on that test; besides, a full load at 5VSB is hard to reproduce during normal operations. Nevertheless, most units don't have a problem here."

Here is an other review from PCPer, that states the exact same.

> "Ideally we would like to see no AC ripple (repetitive) or noise (random) on the DC outputs – the cleaner the better! But in reality there will always be some present."

> "The EVGA NEX750G power supply exhibited acceptable AC ripple suppression on all of the primary outputs but was overall higher than we would like to see on a premium grade, enthusiast power supply; particularly on the +3.3V and +5VSB outputs."

Hopefully this clears it up!

---

As for sound cards, most people will be extremely happy by the on-board sound that's available on motherboards these days. The sound quality improved dramatically over the last 2 years.

If you do want to get a sound improvement, the first place to start is with your headphones. Almost all "gaming" headsets that you buy these days are pretty much not great for music (unless you love high base styled music, then you might enjoy it well enough), movies & anything else than explosion sounds.
Positional sound stages on most gaming headsets are also not great. Because almost all of them are closed back designs, which reduces the 3D effect obtainable with open back headphones. Closed vs Open back headphones explained.
Now quickly adding the whole Gaming vs "real" headphones discussion that often pops up.

This whole 5/7.1 surround sound is hopefully done by software and can help to position the sound if it comes from your left or right, but open backed, 2.0 headphones are the best for positional sound stage and don't require any additional software. Turn of all the surround sound software that you have and listen to this clip with your eyes closed. To understand how "surround sound" works on headphones.
The Sennheiser HD598 & AKG K701/2 are one of the best out there for this. This is great for games like CS:GO.
Source

If you have great headphones and still want to get more out of them, I recommend to get an external DAC/AMP. Over a sound card!
This means that you remove the audio signal completely away from the noisy PC that causes EMI. This video is a broad explanation of it and not just related to audio & PC units. But you can trust me, the inside of a PC got lots of it.
So an external DAC/AMP unit will remove the EMI completely. Since you use an USB cable to connect it to the DAC (digital to analog converter) which transforms the digital sound (10010100101) into an analog signal that we humans can hear.
The AMP or Amplifier makes sure that the headphones, earbuds or speakers get enough "power" to produce all the sound waves.

Sound card, DAC & AMP explained is the video that explains the EMI much better.

This quickly becomes expensive, but there are a lot of great "value" options available these days. The most famous one is the FiiO E10K but I'm personally also a big fan of the Schiit Fulla
In terms of sound difference, I bet you that almost nobody is able to really tell them apart, aside from probably the people that made them. So in theory, the FiiO is the better value.
I just personally really love the Schiit company and thus support them. Their customer support is also very amazing.

Sorry for the wall of text, if you have any more questions. Don't hesitate to ask!

EDIT: I put main points in bold so that people can skim through this and get the gist of what I'm saying here. Very long post, so I thought it would be merciful to do so.
 

Alrighty, this may be long so buckle up and get ready for a journey.
 

I don't consider myself a hardcore audiophile or an expert in turntables/records, so I did some research when I was first looking to purchase one. I was originally looking at a Crosley record player but was soon warned about how notoriously evil they are -- by the way, DO NOT GET A CROSLEY, THEY ARE TERRIBLE!!! They are notorious for putting too much pressure on vinyls with their needles and end up scratching, carving, and ruining perfectly good records (for reference, ideal tracking force is two grams while the Crosley applies five grams tracking force). The parts are cheap and outdated and the player itself is extremely unstable and will skip if there's any sort of vibrational disturbance nearby. It's not good at all.
 

That said, I want to make sure you know what exactly you're getting into right now. When you buy a turntable, there are other things you need to buy along with it to make it function correctly. I don't know whether you're planning to get a turntable just as a gift that only your SO will use or if it's something you both will use, but it's important nonetheless to know what exactly a turntable requires to work properly. See, when people buy a turntable, a lot of people don't realize that there are three things that are needed alongside it: a pre-amp; an amplifier; and speakers. Speakers is obvious, sure, and of course you'll need something to control the volume, but a lot of people I've talked to only thought about that kind of stuff after purchasing their turntable.
 

The reason why these things are important is because most turntables rely on an electrical current in order to transmit vinyl to audio, but the current the turntable generates on its own doesn't matter if there's nothing to turn that current into sound. Think of it like a secret code. The vinyl is the coded message, and the turntable is the tool that deciphers the code. It can't decipher the code without the correct key, though; a preamp is like the key. It takes that current the turntable generates and amplifies it so that the signal is strong enough to be decoded by the amplifier. The amplifier is what actually turns it into the sound format, and is how you control volume as well. The speakers project the deciphered sound that you get to hear and enjoy. If you only plan on buying a turntable, then you don't need to worry about these things. Otherwise, keep reading; I'm finally getting to the point so please bear with me after this terrible analogy. :P
 

It's a lot to take into consideration when buying a turntable; when I did my research, I found that the Audio Technica LP series was pretty reliable. It's not exactly ultra high-end, but it's a great starting point for beginning collectors. There are two ATLP record players, the 60 and the 120, and some other variants that I'm not really aware of. I personally use the 120 because I thought it was funny being able to mess with the pitch settings on it, and I like the extended options the 120 has over the 60. This is just a comparison between both the 60 and 120 below if you're interested in the Audio Technica LP series:
 

In Favor of the 120:

• the LP60 is a belt-drive turntable which means that you'll be replacing a belt in the turn table if it breaks, whereas the LP120 is direct drive and there's no broken belts to worry about replacing
  
  
• the stylus is also a better quality in the 120, but I don't know from experience whether this is true in comparison to the 60
  
  
• the 120 is also sturdier than the 60 as well
   
  
  In Favor of the 60:
  
  
• the LP60 is smaller and more portable than the 120, as the 120 is kind of bulky and heavy
  
  
• the LP60 is cheaper than the 120 (Amazon says that the 60 is about $100 while the 120 is about $300. I recommend the 60 as the best way to start listening to vinyl over the 120 as it's less of a financial commitment than the 120 is, especially if you turn out not to like records. not meaning to be negative but it's something to consider, as well
  
  
• the LP60 has less options, but the options on the 120 don't usually matter to people who are just getting into vinyl so that's more of a personal preference
   
  
  Something in the favor of both players, though: they both come with built-in preamps, so you won't have to worry about buying one of those. Some people don't like the sound quality of the built-in preamp, but I think it's fine and it really isn't something to worry about as a beginner. The amp and speakers matter a bit more.
   
  
  When I went to go find a good amp, I made the mistake of going to Best Buy. Never go to Best Buy. It's a nightmare. The guy I talked to about amplifiers promptly directed us to home sound systems that cost over $1,000 in price. I found one on Amazon for $39. Not only does it work with my turntable, it's also bluetooth so you can stream from your phone if you want to as well (I'll link it right here so you can see it). I only set the amplifier up to half volume and it fills the entire room. I thought it was a miracle how I was seeing all of these huge ass home systems and then I get this little tiny ant of an amplifier and it does just as well.
   
  
  Now, onto speakers. You should think about the speakers the same way as I described the amp. The biggest, most ultra high-end stuff is just not worth it when you're starting out. I use Micca MB42 Bookshelf Speakers, which are amazing (the link is here). It's also $60 on Amazon, so you'll be saving money there, too. Oh, and you'll need speaker wire, which is $11 on Amazon as well.
   
  
  The total amount of money I spent on my system was $400 (it's really $399 but I rounded up), including the Audio Technica LP120, the mini amp, and the bookshelf speakers. If you get the LP60, you'd only be spending $200 ($199 but again rounded up). My setup and recommendations aren't the most top-of-the-line stuff, sure, but this is all I can recommend to you as this is all I've ever really used. It sounds great and I wouldn't really change it for anything.
   
  
  I'm so sorry this is such a long read, but I went through a lot figuring this out the hard way. I got my turntable as a gift along with those speakers, but then found out that I also needed to buy an amp to actually be able to make my whole setup work, and it spawned a two week-long horror show of trying to figure out what kind of amp to get. I feel like getting a turntable or really anything on such a scale as this should be a momentous and memorable occasion to cherish forever, and shouldn't be tainted by having to go through the ringer just to get one missing piece of the puzzle. I am also a music lover and feel your first foray into vinyl shouldn't be associated with high costs but rather being able to experience it for the first time and marveling in its strangely magical quality. It's a great gesture, especially towards an SO.
   
  
  Now I might be over-exaggerating a bit throughout this whole thing, but I think what you're trying to do is very sweet and I thought it would be good to take it seriously. Also, reading long posts like this can be exhausting, so I thought it'd be easier to get through if I did over-exaggerate and make it a more interesting read. Thanks for reading, and I hope your SO appreciates the gift. :)

Then Sennheiser G4ME ONE for open-back (recommended) or G4ME ZERO for closed-back.

If you're not opposed to a headphone and a separate mic, then I have some recommendations and suggestions. There's also some info you should know about what makes headphones/headsets good for gaming.

 

Open-back headphones:

• AKG K612 Pro
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x
  
• Audio-Technica ATH-AD500x
  
• Philips SHP9500
  
• Sennheiser HD558
  
• Status Audio OB-1
  
• Superlux HD681 (B, F)
  
• Superlux HD681 EVO
  
• Superlux HD668B / Samson SR850
  
  Closed-back headphones:
  
  
• AKG K52
  
• Status Audio CB-1
  
• Superlux HD669
  
• Superlux HD662 (B, F)
  
• Superlux HD662 EVO
  
  Mics:
  
  
• Antlion ModMic 5
  
• Antlion ModMic 4
  
• V-MODA BoomPro
  
   
  
  I have AKG K52, Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x, Philips SHP9500, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669 and Superlux HD681 EVO of these. I also have AKG Q701, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms), HyperX Cloud, Philips Fidelio X2 and Sennheiser HD700. I got all of these for gaming (and because I love collecting headphones). I can't emphasize enough that perceived performance in headphones is relative. This is why I mention what headphones I've used.
  
  K52 has a big soundstage, good imaging, clarity, detail retrieval and tonality, and decent separation. The bass can sound slightly distorted in explosions and other big and loud sounds. It has a flat/balanced sound signature. It's over-ear, very lightweight and has a durable build and replaceable earpads.
  
  AD700x has a very big soundstage, great imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval, and good tonality. It has a bright sound signature with clean, recessed bass. It's over-ear, very lightweight and has a durable build and replaceable earpads.
  
  SHP9500 has a big soundstage, good imaging, separation and detail retrieval, and very good clarity and tonality. It has a flat/balanced sound signature with clean bass. It's over-ear, lightweight and has a durable build and a detachable cable. The earpads are removable, but you need to mod them to replace them, which is very easy and quick to do. I've made a tutorial. The clamping force is very loose, so I don't recommend the headphone for children or if you frequently move your head down and don't have a big head. Replacing the earpads will make the clamping force tighter.
  
  HD668B has a very big soundstage, very good imaging, separation and detail retrieval, good clarity and decent tonality. It has a bright sound signature and a small boost in the bass. It has clean bass. It's over-ear, very lightweight and has a sturdy build and a detachable cable. I recommend replacing the earpads with velour earpads from HiFiMAN or Cosmos.
  
  HD681 EVO has a very big soundstage, good detail retrieval, very good clarity and tonality, but has poor imaging and separation. It has a warm sound signature with a deep, clean bass. It's over-ear, lightweight and has a durable build and a detachable cable. I recommend taking out the loose felt inside the cups and replacing the earpads because they are very shallow and the driver sticks out quite a bit. Some good compatible earpads are the ones from HiFiMAN and Cosmos and AKG K240/K270/K271 earpads. If you have big ears, then I recommend the round velour earpads from Brainwavz. The earpads can cost up to $25, but the sound quality is worth at least $100. Thomann.de sells Superlux headphones cheaper than Amazon.
  
  I'm currently testing Superlux HD662 EVO and Superlux HD669.
  
   
  
  Closed-back headphones have cups with solid shells that largely isolate sound from passing in and out.
  
  Open-back / semi-open-back headphones have cups with perforations/grills that allow outside sound to freely pass in and sound from the drivers to freely pass out. How loud you hear outside sound and how loud people around you hear the sound emanating from the headphones depend on your volume, of course. The sonic benefit to open-back is generally a big soundstage and, hence, better imaging.
  
  Soundstage is perceived space and environment of sound. It can be compared to virtual surround sound; both attempt to produce the same spacious, three-dimensional effect. VSS can sound more ambient and immersive, which will depend on the processor (CMSS-3D, Dolby, SBX, etc.), but it degrades the sound quality and diminishes detailing due to compression from digital processing. You might also experience less accurate imaging and separation if the headphone already has good imaging and separation. Note that a deep soundstage is equally important as a wide soundstage.
  
  Imaging determines how accurately sounds/objects are positioned across the soundstage. Imaging is inherent to the audio content, so if the game is recorded or mixed poorly, a headphone with good imaging won’t improve the positional audio.
  
  Separation is separating individual sounds from a range of sounds. Good separation properties make it easier to filter out or discern overlapping sounds from other sounds and track them.
  
  Sound signature is a frequency response / sound profile. For example, a V-shaped sound signature emphasizes the bass and treble while recessing the mid-range. A flat/balanced sound signature doesn't over- or under-emphasize these frequencies and attempts to reproduce the original recording accurately as possible. A bright headphone emphasizes the treble and can subdue the bass. A warm sound signature emphasizes the bass or subdues the treble.
  
   
  
  The Antlion ModMics use a clasp system to attach to headphones and they are easy to attach and remove. They are compatible with all headphones and have mute switches. V-MODA BoomPro is compatible with headphones that have a female 3.5mm jack without any proprietary nonsense, like Philips SHP9500. Status Audio CB-1 is compatible, though. It has a mute switch and a volume control. You should listen to recordings on YouTube to judge for yourself if they sound good. I think they are for voice chat.
  
  To connect the headphone and ModMic to DS4, you need a 4-pole Y-splitter. The BoomPro doesn't require a Y-splitter.
  
  To connect the headphone and ModMic or BoomPro to PS4, you can use an audio USB adapter. The BoomPro requires a Y-splitter here, but it comes with the mic.
  
  You can also use a sound card, e.g. Astro MixAmp Pro TR, or a dedicated DAC (digital-to-analog converter) and a headphone amplifier, e.g. SMSL SD793-II, to improve your audio. Sound cards are mainly for offering virtual surround sound, equalization, and other features, so sound cards generally provide inferior audio quality to dedicated DACs and amps. The reason why sound cards are relevant even if you're not interested in the extra features is that the BoomPro mic only works through a 3.5mm TRRS jack, which DS4 and licensed sound cards offer. If you choose a ModMic, then you're not limited because the mic cable is separate from the headphone cable, so the headphone connects to the amp as usual and the mic connects to the DS4.

Aight girl-

Foreign Cuisine-
How to Eataly - Oscar Farinetti - We made the most AMAZING brisket meatballs and a super simple yet completely delicious red sauce out of this book
Around My French Table - Dorie Greenspan - Where the Cornish hens and gougeres came from.
Real Korean Cooking - Maangchi - Korean Fried Chicken. We've made them twice now because they're so good and can't wait to do more.
Mexican Everyday - Rick Bayless - Learned how to make perfect guac from this book and so far we've made these v tasty chorizo/mushroom/potato tacos. The recipe is SO cheap and SO voluminous that we had it as a taco filling, a quesadilla filling, and we're making a hash with it for brunch this morning.
Every Grain of Rice - Fuchsia Dunlop - We haven't tried anything out of here yet but there are sooooo many good-looking recipes in here.
Entice with Spice - Shubhra Ramineni - Likewise, haven't made anything out of here yet but looking forward to trying it all out soon.
Jack's Wife Freda - Dean & Maya Jankelowitz - This is actually a book from a restaurant that my fiance and I LOVED when we last visited NYC. It's got a lot of fusion recipes. Mediterranean/Israeli/South African/etc. Really unique flavors and also v comfort-food based. We're making rosewater waffles out of this book tomorrow!


Baking-
Rose's Baking Basics - Rose Levy Barenbaum - This book is incredible. She has tons and tons of step-by-step photos which is SUPER helpful. We made the dark chocolate caramel tart out of this book, but pretty much everything in here looks amazing.
Modern Baking - Donna Hay - I mean... There is some INSANELY decadent looking stuff in here. We haven't tried any of these recipes yet but I can't wait to!


Misc-
Cook Like a Pro - Ina Garten - It was really hard to pick just one Ina book but I liked most of the recipes in this one. She has this ridic recipe for a dijon mustard chicken that is INCREDIBLE. Also, this bitch knows how to cook some veggies. Big fan of this one.
The Food Lab - /u/j_kenji_lopez-alt - I just love this guy, tbh. We've made a really fantastic beef tenderloin out of this book and an incredible red wine sauce to go with it and of course, his famous roasted potatoes which are now my holy grail recipe for roasted potatoes. This book is like a science textbook only instead of boring stuff it's FOOD science, which is my favorite kind.


Those were all the ones we purchased ourselves (though technically Eataly was a gift BUT we love it and plan to use it often.) We have other cookbooks in our stable that we've received as gifts, which is what resulted in my fiance and I deciding we wanted to embark on this journey. We kept being given cookbooks and never doing anything with them. But man, do people love it when you send them pics of stuff you cooked out of a book they gave you. If people give you cookbooks, use them!! It will make their day to see it's being used. Here's what else is on our cookbook shelf-


The Forest Feast Gatherings - Erin Gleeson - This is a vegetarian book my fiance's mom gave us a few years ago for Christmas. We have a bunch of veggie friends (and friends with a lot of different allergies) so we turn to this book to have a few things that are edible by all of them when we have them over, as we often do. This book has a really delicious salad that has pomegranate seeds, pear, and hazelnut that is out of this world good. I also got my HG salad dressing from this book.
The Salad Bowl - Nicola Graimes - Another gift from my fiance's mom. Is she trying to tell us something?? Honestly haven't looked much into this book yet but it sure is pretty.
The Unofficial Harry Potter Cookbook - Dinah Bucholz - This was a gift from the assistant in my office. Everyone in my office knows me as the Harry Potter girl because I have a lightning bolt tattoo, haha. We haven't made anything out of this yet, but we probably will have some sort of epic feast with recipes from this book when GoT starts back up later this year.
Talk About Good - Louisiana Lafayette Junior League - My boss gave this to my fiance and I as part of an engagement gift. My fiance went to school in New Orleans. It's primarily New Orleansian/Cajun food. Haven't made anything out of it yet, but we are looking forward to it.

And that's what's on our cookbook shelf for now.

edit also omg thanks for the gold!! <3

So I woke up and these are the links to the videos and some pointers and what not.

ALL LINKS IN THE BOTTOM

Here is the first video for 150 dollars https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dj5G0isn9Y

These are the 50 dollar headphones https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3fD-M1F6L4g

These are the really high end for 200-1000 dollar sets. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgTnJ3JQQ0E

Open vs Closed

Closed

Closed which is what I use right now but am looking to get an open pair for 150 bucks. Now closed is where the sound outside your headphones do not come in, as much. Now some are completely noise cancelling then others and some you can still hear but not too well. It has a less of a sound stage so it is harder to know where somethings is by hearing it.

Open

Open is where the vibrator (forgot the name) is directly exposed with little noise cancelling materiel and sometimes none. The offer a much larger sound stage where you can tell where hostiles are, where the birds are, tanks, etc. They also are much better sounding. However, if you live in a loud place with a lot of things going on, get closed. Open also allows for people to hear what you listen to, from 2 or 3 feet away but not behind a closed door.

Microphones

One of the things that you need to be weary about is desktop mics. They are good sounding, great everything. However if you have a small desk get an attachable arm. If you have a mechanical keyboard or hit your table a lot get an arm. But arms can be expensive 20-40 dollars or even more. The solution is getting a Antlion Modmic 4.0 for 40 bucks, great sound, nice and clear and noise cancelling so it won't pickup outside noise. Desktop mics I'd get is a Blue Yeti, Snowball, Audio Technica 2020 is also great, Snowflake microphone, etc.

Ad-dons for audio

So if you want to get better audio, louder, etc. Get an AMP/DAC mix. They are a DAC/AMP connecting VIA USB plug to the PC and then the headphones connect to the DAC with a quarter inch with some 3.5mm connectors but not recommended. These offer a much better experience but at a cost for 80-200 dollars for good ones. Some pads too add bass or take away from treble, mids or bass or add to. But not that much but it is always great to get better pads then stock ones on some stuff for more comfortable wearing.

Headphones

Probably why you are here reading this. Now if you have 80-100 dollars here are my recommendations

Takstar HI 2050 open back headphones and a modmic 4.0 come in at just 100 dollars, they are great headphones. VERY comfy pads from Bererdynamic, honestly I don't know how they aren't losing money they sound like 200 dollar headphones.

Superlux 668B's they are good headphones, they sound high end, are very tough, etc. However they are semi-open and have a fairly large sound stage. My biggest 2 problems are, they are very treble heavy and uncomfortable for larger heads and ears. If I got these I'd need the velour ear pads Amazons sells for them because the stock are hard plastic. The other problem is they aren't very big either and I have a very large ear and head so they is a minus for me. Which is why I love the Takstar HI2050's.

Now if you want to drop more money then get these AKG Q701's which are VERY open. They offer the largest sound stage in the price bracket and more then almost all 500+ headphones. They are very comfy and big for big ears. Very good sound.

For some alternatives in that price bracket for open are DT 990's pros for 150 dollars, they are a bit treble heavy but still are very great. They are 150 on Amazon for the 250 OHM one which can be used in quarter inch and 3.5mm plugs by unscrewing the quarter inch adapter. They have very deep ear pads and very comfy ones too.

Now if you want closed for 30 bucks and still good audio get these Monoprice 108323. Now these earpads aren't very good IMO so I'd get Brainwavz replacement pads for 20 dollars. They are deep, comfy and overall nice. Sound I don't know too much about but they still beat gaming headsets.

For the last pair of closed backs I can think of are DT 770s, bass heavy, VERY big headphones from Beyerdynamic and overall good but not a good sound stage get these for 170 on Amazon.

Another honourable mention is Audio Technica M50x's, they are ok. Better then gaming headsets but don't offer much compared to 990's or 701's but still good. They are 160 I believe.

Now get a modmic or whatever mic you want with these, I'd get a desktop mic w/ arm personally but modmic is nice.

Links

• http://www.modmic.com/collections/modmic Modmic
  
  
• Blue yeti http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Yeti-USB-Microphone/dp/B002VA464S I'd recommend a pop-filter too.
  
  
• Snowflake http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Snowflake-USB-Microphone/dp/B0012AUHXW
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Razer-Seiren-Elite-Digital-Microphone/dp/B00QXT5M3C This isn't much more then the Blue Yeti, in fact a bit worst and very expensive. I'd stay away but worth a mention.
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Microphones-Snowball-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B006DIA77E
  
  
• AT2020 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AS6OYC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687582&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0006H92QK&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0ZVM8GGV5TDXFE02QPWP
  
  
• DT 990 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0011UB9CQ/ref=twister_B00WU2V08C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• DT 770 http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-770-PRO-250-ohms/dp/B0006NL5SM
  
  
• ATH M50x http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457973618&sr=1-1&keywords=m50x
  
  
• Takstar HI2050 http://www.amazon.com/Takstar-Monitor-Headphone-Gaming-Computer/dp/B009PIQUB6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457973640&sr=1-1&keywords=Takstar+hi+2050
  
  
• Superlux 668b http://www.amazon.com/Superlux-HD668B-Dynamic-Semi-Open-Headphones/dp/B003JOETX8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457973655&sr=1-1&keywords=668b
  
  
• Velour pads for 668B's http://www.amazon.com/Cosmos-Velvet-Replacement-Cushion-Headphones/dp/B00KLPRQMO/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0Z33W5JHBVD65A9T5YGD
  
  
• Brainwavz pads http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894/ref=pd_sim_23_36?ie=UTF8&dpID=41vuwIZESZL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=14DP2XANDMR7AFMC1QMY Make sure these fit I am postive but check /r/headphones to know.
  
  
• Monoprice headphones http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-108323-Headphone-Gold-Plated-Accessories/dp/B007SP2CO2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457973687&sr=1-1&keywords=monoprice+8323
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/AKG-Signature-Reference-Class-Premium-Headphones/dp/B004444OFK
  
  Make sure to look at reviews.
  
  Feel free to ask any questions too.

If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use !check instead )

This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. Currently the points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads.

This should be working, hopefully

In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

----

> does newegg tend to have cyber monday deals? building a whole new rig for the second time, and a couple sales on parts actually end on sunday, so I was wondering if I should just order them now.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9w82oo/

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> Hi everyone.
>
> will any simple/cheap/ rgb strip sync to my mobo MSI x470 gaming , as long as i plug it directly on the rgb dedicated pins on the mobo? and what about usb hubs? would they still sync up just trough the mobo? i have their mystic light app, so far i only used for the rgb on the mobo itself

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wben8/

----

> I bought a Cooler Master - MasterLiquid Lite 120 66.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
> And I'm looking for an installation video to help me with it. Otherwise I'll have to get my brothers friends to help install it and he want like $50 to put my PC together. All I need help with is the liquid cooler cause I've never put one in before.
>
> Anyone know any good videos to help?


/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wem45/

----

> Hi. I have the ability to purchase an old Xeon E5420 Dell Desktop, with new SSD and 8GBs of RAM for cheap. Does anyone use it still? How does it hold for browsing the web, mainly more demanding websites like perhaps Cloud9 which I intend to develop on.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wkvc0/

----

> Got. Mobo. For a old machine. Pull working parts from another machine to test it. Everything is install correctly . but. It not wanting to tirn on. After it was on last night
>


/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wlax0/

----

> I'm looking for a place where I can buy last year's computers or laptops. I figure that last year's $1000 laptop is now $700 somewhere in the internet. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wnpld/

----

> I built a PC last year with a 1080 Ti, i7 CPU, monitor is AW3418DW. I haven’t done anything to make it look good though. What’s a good site or YouTube channel that goes into ideas and the process of “pimping out” a PC? I’m talking RGB, color schemes, accessories, etc. I don’t know where to start.
>
> Thank you.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9wz0dl/

----

> Among other drives, I have two 6TB WD Reds for media storage for a Plex server. I use Backblaze for online backups as it has no storage limit, but even with the best consumer internet in my area, obviously a backup can take a while. I would like to have a second local storage drive specifically for a media backup.
>
> So the question - what is the best 12+ TB internal drive now, specifically from the standpoint of reliability? Cost is a near secondary concern, with performance being by far last.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x16vl/

----

> Where is the most reliable place to buy replacement keyboard keys for a laptop? Some of them seem kind of sketch

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x5qzv/

----

> Decided to upgrade my graphics card. I decided to go ahead and grab a 1080ti until I saw how inflated the prices have become since I last checked. It looks like a used 1080ti is a similar price to the 2080. Should I just grab a used 1080ti or buy a brand new 2080?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x5w55/

----

> Is there any way to get audio input/output from my ps4 and my PC at the same time? I have a pair of HyperX Cloud IIs, I bought this splitter thing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AWBA8U8/
>
> And this cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H8KO2/
>
> I thought this would work and I'm almost certain I have it all set up right but my PC and ps4 won't recognize it. Any help is greatly appreciated.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x5zb5/

----

> In your guys opinion, whats the coolest case I could get for around $100-200?
>
> Last year, I built a very budget and compact PC with a small case so that I could easily take it to friends houses. (worked better than I thought) Soon im going to be getting a laptop, so I have no need for a small case and was thinking, why not go all out and get a nice, fancy RGB case? I have always wanted to do one of those rainbow-puke builds, think its possible to do that for around $100-200 including RGB fans and light strips and all that?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9x8x6j/

----

> Is the aorus b450 mini itx board good? How is it compared to the asus board.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xb5fp/

----

> I'm needing a bit of help with my new GPU. Just yesterday I upgraded to a Asus Strix 2080 OC edition card, and now I'm getting a D3D9 error on a hat in time. I've tried everything I've seen from forums, and nothing works. Any tips to get it running? Everything is up to date, so how do I get it to run?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xbm5i/

----

>
> https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/WqZRyX Looking at building this in the next few weeks, for my little cousin. Slowly buying everything as they go on sale. Since it's a windowed case, was thinking of putting some RGB parts in it - what are some cheap ways of doing that? Fans? Will those be compatible with my case/motherboard?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xdcg6/

----

> lets say i wanted to start a youtube tech channel and a twitch channel. the requirements are, for twitch it just needs to have a stand and preferably have hardware that can minimize outside sound. for youtube, it needs to have the ability to record how loud pc components (and keyboard) are when being stress tested. i was thinking the yeti mic, but maybe there might be a better mic, idk.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xgx6f/

----

> So i got a weird kind of thing
>
> So my Logitech G403 mouse that replaced my Razer Deathadder (because of the infamous DoubleClick bug that appeared a month after i bought it (dont buy razer mice!)) the mousewheel on my G403 started to freak out after a couple of weeks of use. Randomly scrolling up or down.
>
> Thing is i use Linux, in my workplace they also use Linux so it took me a few weeks until i could do a firmware upgrade to fix the bug (firmware update is windows/mac only) but that didnt fix the bug. The Mousewheel kept being random. Until a couple of days ago when i noticed that it is less random then usual...and it only got better and the bug is all but gone now.
>
> I dont understand this.
>
> Why did the Firmware update needed time to gestate? What is going on?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9xvbea/

----

> Hi there.
>
> I need a new keyboard and as I'm waiting for black friday week promotion, I can't choose between Logitech G513 and the new Razer BlackWidow Elite.
>
> ​
>
> What's your point of view ?
>
> ​
>
> Edit : One more : A friend is playing on a 21:9 34" monitor (3440*1440). I'm thinking of upgrading to it and then see the 38" (3840*1600) that exists. Is it enjoyable ? I certainly need a high end GPU to handle all of those pixels. Will my i5 4690 (4 core@3.5GHtz) be bottlenecked for those two screen size ?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9y73tw/

----

> Hey guys I just bought a new pc on parts and I think I messed up. I bought a segotep sg-k8 case (with bottom mounted psu) and a psu (seasonic M12II-520) that is supposed to be top mounted.... I can still mount the psu in the case but I have to flip it upside down. Is that a problem? Thank you very much...

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/9xwmm1/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_17_2018/e9y809h/

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User | Points
-----|-------
A_Neaunimes | 459
badillin | 432
Luminaria19 | 389
zakabog | 319
thatgermanperson | 314
Sayakai | 306
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095179005 | 210
motionglitch | 207
Excal2 | 161


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I am a bot - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to \/u\/eegras - About /u/PCMRBot

If I were you, I might do it a little differently.

Steelseries makes good keyboards and they're very customizable. r/mechanicalkeyboards might throw a hissy fit at me for saying that, but they're good all around boards. Every key can be customized with macros and stuff if he so chooses, right in the Steelseries software. No need to mess around with AHK.

Mice are a very personal thing. Does he know you're getting him PC peripherals for Christmas? If so, knowing the size of his hand, and if possible, how he grips a mouse would be super helpful. I spend a shameful amount of time on r/mousereview and would love to help you out! The Xtrfy M4 is very popular at the moment if he has medium or small hands. Right here you can see how to measure hand size properly.

If you can't get a precise measurement or grip style that's fine - could you maybe compare his hand to yours (a simple "Hey, which one of us has bigger hands?" should do), measure yours, and estimate roughly how different they are.

If he's got the space for a setup, he'd be much better off with a dedicated set of headphones and a dedicated microphone than with a headset, and it'd be cheaper too! I personally recommend the Superlux 668B headphones with a set of replacement earpads (these ones are amazing, but these ones are still very good while being much cheaper). Then grab yourself a Fifine microphone and something cheap to hold it and you've saved yourself a lot of money while getting him a much better product!

Oh, those headphones will let in a fair amount of background noise, and they'll leak a bit of the sound playing through them. If your house/apartment is often loud or you share a space and don't want to hear his games, these Takstars are shockingly good for the price. If you wanna save a few bucks and not go for a separate microphone, this CM headset is based off them but has an attached mic!

Good luck and I hope he enjoys his gift! Feel free to ask any questions you've got, PM if you want :)

Not OP, but I very much enjoy the sound of the HD600's. super easy to listen to and not harsh at all. Kind of expensive, since you need an aplifier to get the best sound of them, which just adds to the price. I have a few recommendations for under 150 dollar headphones.

If you're looking for some great open back headphones, I recommend the AD-700X. Very open, with an airy sound. I enjoy them the most for vocals. not much bass, however. I also really enjoy these for gaming. the design of them is a odd for headphones so they might not be the best fit for your head.

Another option is the SHP9500. also open and similar to the HD600's in that they handle almost all music well. Can't really complain on how they handle most things, except for maybe bass heavy music. All around good headphones. Super comfortable to wear too.

If you want some closed headphones, I recommend the DT-770's 80 Ohm. not as easy to drive as the 32 Ohm version, but still should be fine with almost anything. If you plan on getting an amp, get the 250 Ohm version. I love these because the bass response is absolutely fantastic. If you enjoy EDM, hiphop, or any genre that is bass heavy, these are a no brianer. these have fantastic sub bass that doesn't muddy up the vocals. Maybe not the best for all genre types, as the higher frequencies can be fatiguing for some people.

If you're looking for a AMP to start off with, I recommend the FiiO E10K. cheap, and powerful enough to drive most headphones, unless they're very power demanding like the HD600's. If you want to go all out, getting a Schiit Stack like OP, or an ODAC combo works too. that's gonna be like 200+ though, so I recommend starting with something smaller.

Also, be sure to use Amazon's warehouse deals to get a "used" pair of any of these if you can. save some money on it, and if they're broken or damaged, amazon will gladly refund you. really is a money saver.

I don't know if I would trust any headlamp with a USB-C port on it into a cave... it seems like asking for trouble with it getting filled with mud and other nasty stuff. A similar light is the Nitecore HC50, which is $15 cheaper and has red lights. I have this light and have taken it in many muddy, wet caves and have banged it up something good and it is still rocking strong. The beam is awesome, and while it's only 565 lm this is honestly still brighter than useful pretty much always. I typically run it at the second or third brightness setting anyways. My only complaint with this light is that it is a bit heavy, which isn't really a problem when strapped to an ecrin roc, but can be annoying when not using it with a helmet around the camp.

My favorite light is my Zebralight, the hype for this thing is well deserved. While it doesn't have a red light, the form factor is awesome. It is super light on the head without the hassle of a battery in the back. I think many people will agree that the Zebralight H600 series is one of the best caving lights you can get. (note there four versions of the H600, two LED colors cool and neutral, and two beam spreads, flood and spot)

Nitecore makes a blatant ripoff of the Zebralight that is $30 cheaper. While I don't have one of these, I did have a chance to play with one after a buddy of mine got one and it seems to be pretty neat. Considering how much I like my Nitecore HC50 I'm willing to bet this would be a solid light to get as well. One thing I like about the Zebralight over the Nitecore is that it works with flat-top 18650 batteries so you can bust open old laptop batteries and use the cells to power the light, whereas the Nitecore requires a button top 18650. Not a huge issue but something to consider.


Edit (some more thoughts):

It sounds like you are new to caving, welcome! I would recommend that you attend a local grotto meeting, which I believe for you would be the Southern California Grotto. You may meet some awesome people and it's a good way to get involved in the sport.

Also, with your flashlight purchase don't forget to get an 18650 battery and a charger for it. You may already have these since you have the Nitecore MH25 but I figured I'd mention it just in case. Be careful with the batteries to get a reputable brand because there are a lot of fakes out there. Panasonic makes good batteries, but unfortunately there are a lot of ones that say Panasonic that are made somewhere else and a lot of ones that say other things that are made by Panasonic. Confusing! I got this one and it works great. You can take a risk with cheaper ones, just know they might not last so long. This charger works good for me. I've had both of my lights last for a 14 hour cave trip so the battery life is pretty good.

I may be of some help. I was in the same position as you a couple months ago.

First you have to decide, wired or wireless.

Wireless: A lot people suggest the ps gold headset ($100). As a gaming headset, they're decent but from what I've read, the sound quality is not great. If all you do is plan to play games with it and you don't care all that much about sound quality then this may be your best wireless option. A better wireless option would be the Astro A50. Reviews seem to say that the sound quality on the A50 is pretty good but this comes at a much higher price ($300 new, $200 refurbished). SteelSeries also makes a good wireless option at the same price point of the Astro.

Wired: If you go on head-fi, everyone will say the best option would be to buy a decent dedicated full-size headphones(price here depends on budget), a separate mic, and something like this to connect to your controller. This is true but I didn't like this option. Having two cables going my controller to my head seemed like a bit of a hassle and I wanted as few wires as possible. I wanted a quality wireless setup, but I couldn't justify spending $300 for a setup I'd only use to game.

I did find the V-Moda boom pro which would replace the cord on their headphone's with an in-line boom mic thus eliminating one more wire. Paired it up with the V-Moda M80(You should be able to use it with anything form the vmoda line, but don't hold me to that, you should be able to find out yourself easily), which to my surprise got great reviews on head-fi. I bought them for around 80 on an amazon lightning deal. They're pretty good, especially considering the whole setup cost ~$100. Build quality is very high, sound quality is good, a little bass heavy IMO but that is perfect for gaming. I also wouldn't mind taking these out with me on the colder months as they're not too bulky. They also come with a pretty cool carrying case.

I'm very happy with this setup now and I think the next step up from here would be to get a wireless setup.

Hope this helps.

Source: I do have quite an extensive headphone collection so I do appreciate a good set of cans.

My recommendations:

Videos:

1. Tasty videos! They’re short, so you can binge a bunch, but they’re also straightforward and usually on the simpler side. https://youtu.be/zcOsz-dHFe0
   
   
2. “Food Wishes” on YouTube. I’ve been watching them for over a decade - lighthearted, fun learning that takes you step by step through TONS of dishes. I cook almost daily, and I can credit this guy for most of my inspiration. https://www.youtube.com/user/foodwishes
   
   
3. Binging with Babish & Basics with Babish. Similar to good wishes, but a little more laid back (which is an accomplishment) and a bit higher production quality IMO. https://www.youtube.com/user/bgfilms
   
   
4. Bon Apetit! Also YouTube. So many fun personalities, everyone has different specialties, it’s like learning from experts that feel like your friends. Carla & Molly have the best recipes and explanations IMO, but they’re all wonderful. https://www.youtube.com/user/BonAppetitDotCom
   
   Websites/Books:
   
   These are more advanced, but Serious Eats (google it) never lets you down when it comes to recipes, but they’re definitely more involved (hours to days).
   
   One of the serious eats writers, J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is a PhD Biologist (I think biology...) who wrote The Food Lab. This man is the god of cooking. 100% scientifically and experimentally tested, this book will teach you everything you ever need to know about cooking and then some. HIGHLY recommend getting a copy. The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science https://www.amazon.com/dp/0393081087/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DgUuDb85KVPJ8
   
   Finally, if you don’t want to drop $20 (it’s dropped by ~60% since I bought it! Definitely get a copy!!!) on that, but want to be healthy and learn easy, flavor packed recipes, pick up a copy of The Thug Kitchen. It’s vegan, but the skills are useful anywhere and I’ve yet to find anyone - carnivores included - that’s disliked a single recipe. I got a copy for myself, my girlfriend, a good friend of mine, and my brother.
   
   Thug Kitchen: The Official Cookbook: Eat Like You Give a F*ck (Thug Kitchen Cookbooks) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1623363586/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_miUuDb8363PR2

So I don't actually own these two but I was clicking through the Amazon Gift Guide and they both sparked my interest enough to check them out. They're on my Christmas list for sure haha. :)

• Thug Kitchen
  
  This book is awesome. Seriously awesome. It's wonderfully irreverent, well-illustrated, well-organized, it has plenty of really pitch perfect recipes that are simple and inspiring. Probably my favorite thing about it though is the intro since it has a really great holistic approach to just being in a kitchen and choosing food mindfully which is something I appreciate SO much over just a cookbook that is a list of recipes. All the recipes are vegetarian so just keep that in mind. It's kind of the schtick of the book "hey dumbass, eat more vegetables"
  
  
• The Food Lab - Cooking Through Science
  
  For similar reasons as above, I liked this because it EXPLAINS the process of cooking and not just telling you what to do. This is really helpful for me in understanding what I'm doing and creating a strong mental connection to actually learning it. The intro is once again filled with lots of great insight explaining why you might make the choices you make in a kitchen. It can feel a little bit like a textbook at times, but honestly I kind of like that, especially because it's something I'm highly interested in and motivated to learn. Being both studious and epicurious, I was really drawn to this book as I was learning more about it. I will probably buy this book. The recipes, as I can tell from what I saw, aren't really "health-conscious" per se. I think the bigger downside is the potential to turn into a really really obnoxious food snob. But hey, maybe that's a good thing, too. Lol
  
  

Greetings all!

My main suggestion to anyone wanting to get into vaping it is to skip the ego-starter kits, MVP2 (cheapish Vv or Vw boxes), non-rebuildable tanks (Protanks, Nautilus) and just drive right into the mechanical mod / box mod world. I say this because the vaping experience is so much better with rebuildables. I went with the all of the above, and I personally wished that someone would’ve told me to just dive right in, because all that stuff is sitting around not being used. The people that I’ve talked to are typically hesitant to do so because of the coil building, but there are so many YouTube tutorials, suggestions and information on /r/RBA and /r/electronic_cigarette that it’s much easier than it seems. Anyway, if I were to start all over again, these are the things which I’d buy.

Must Haves
These are the things which I consider essential to starting off the on the right foot. I’ve purchased a lot of things, and these are the things which I suggest to my friends. Most of the links are from Amazon, because it’s what I’ve primarily used.

Battery - Sony VTC5
http://www.eciggity.com/2-pc-sony-18650vtc5-2600mah-30a-battery/

These are pretty much the standard when it comes to “safe” batteries. They’re affordable, good amp limit and have been recommended many times. If you purchase from the link above, they also give you a plastic carrying case!

Charger - Nitecore i2 or Nitecore i4
http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-IntelliCharger-i4-Battery-Charger/dp/B005UAI372/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404287334&sr=8-1&keywords=nitecore

Affordable, reliable and these won’t “overcharge” your batteries. The difference between the i2 and i4 is the amount of batteries they can charge at a single time. They also have a new fancier one out, called the Digicharger D2 and Digicharger D4. Those are nice because it has a LCD panel that displays a lot more information than the i2 and i4. I personally use an just an i2.

Mechanical Mod - Stingray
http://www.vaperoyalty.com/hcigar-stingray-mod-stainless-steel/

Now, 90% of what is suggested for an actual mechanical mod is going to be of personal taste. The Stingray is the “older brother” of the Nemesis. This is what I purchased when I first started out vaping. The unit is very easy to break apart, clean, has a locking ring, has a floating 510 connection and venting holes in case of a battery leak. Almost everyone I know has a Stingray.

Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer - Magma by Infinite
http://101vape.com/rebuildable-atomizers-tanks/309-magma-atomizer-clone-by-infinite.html

One of the best purchases I’ve made. The juice wells are very deep compared to everything else on the market (that doesn’t have a tank system). Threads are nice, easy to build on, post holes are large and the air-flow is easy to manipulate. You can run this on a single coil or a dual coil. Blows almost all the other RDAs I have out of the water. This is my main RDA.

Organic Cotton - Maxim Hygiene Products Organic Cotton Balls
http://www.amazon.com/Organic-Cotton-Balls-Triple-count/dp/B00E8T2X36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288337&sr=8-3&keywords=organic+cotton

I suggest using un-bleached, organic cotton. Some people take it one step further by washing them, I think thats taking it a bit far and I don’t do it. You can pick them up from any convenience store or supermarket (CVS, Walgreens, Target, Whole Foods), a 100 count will last you AGES.

Kanthal - AWG A1 26 Gauge
http://www.amazon.com/Kanthal-Gauge-100ft-0-40386-Resistance/dp/B00HALND7Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404288659&sr=8-1&keywords=kanthal+26

I like to use 26g kanthal wire for my dual coil builds. 26g is a bit thicker than what a lot of people suggest (28g), but for me, because it’s thicker, it’s easier to work with.

Screwdrivers - Stanley 6 Piece Screwdriver set
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00009OYGV/ref=oh_details_o05_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The screwdrivers which come with your RDAs are short, small and crappy. I like these screw drivers because they come in a variety of sizes and you do not need to mess with a drill-bit. What I really like about these, is at the end of the drill bit is a small little ledge (can’t think of a better word), where you can push your coil and scrunch it up a bit.

Ohm meter / Multimeter - Any generic ohm reader or Innova 3300
http://101vape.com/meters/170-ohms-meter.html

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O1X65A/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use a multimeter to do basically the same thing as an ohm reader. The multimeter has an added benefit of being able to read the volts are your battery as well. I have both, but I prefer to use a “regular” ohm reader. This video below can teach you how to use a multimeter for that purpose.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgXAmPBAO5g&index=2&list=LLU7AM2JUxXCrj4TSCDQDffw

Optional items
Things that I’ve purchased that you can probably substitute with something in your house. They’re nice to have, most people have these, but I decided to link these anyway, because I didn’t have some stuff (my scissors were too large).

Scissors - Generic surgical scissors
http://www.amazon.com/Amercian-Diagnostic-Corporation-3425-Stainless/dp/B000GHIUR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289491&sr=8-5&keywords=surgical+scissors

To cut your cotton. Small, sharp and gets the job done.

Tweezers - Ceramic tweezers
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007588/1655800-heat-resistant-stainless-steel-tweezers-for-e

Allows you to hold your coil together and torch them without heating up the tweezers.

Wire cutters - Hakko CHP-170
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For cutting your kanthal off that spool!

Atomizer holder - Plano 23630-01
http://www.amazon.com/Plano-23630-01-Stowaway-Adjustable-Dividers/dp/B000E3FKVC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1404289861&sr=8-4&keywords=plano

You’re gonna buy a bunch of atomizers. Everyone buys a bunch. You’re not going to be able to help yourself. I use this plastic case to keep everything neat and separated.

Building deck - Tenderfoot Stands
https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands?fref=ts

You don’t need this. But it makes building RDAs easier. You can also place your juice filled RDAs on here.

Torch - Mini Jet Flame 503
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A9YSPW/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will help you get those coils nice and tight, without having to fire off your mechanical mod.

Battery Case - Bluecell
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q6PJO8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you don’t buy the batteries from the link above, you’re gonna want a battery case. Do not keep your batteries loose in your pocket or floating around your bag. They can come in contact with something metal and potentially damage the battery.

I'm not the guy you asked, but I ALSO have the G930s. They're nice, but I won't be buying them again. I find the wireless to be flaky when my wife uses HER wireless headset (another Logitec, but not G930s), and the battery is nearly worthless after 2 years of ownership (though I do a fair bit of gaming, so YMMV). Next headset I buy is gonna be a pair of these bad-boys, and I'm gonna slap some of these on 'em. If I need a mic, I'll grab something like this. Won't be wireless, but I've got a cheap bluetooth headset if I need to move around the house. Since my HMD is tethered ANYWAY, I don't mind the headphones being so as well. :)

Hope that was somewhat helpful! :)

EDIT: OK, so here I am, nearly a month later. My G930s finally gave up the ghost, and I went ahead and bought about what I describe above (haven't picked up a mic yet (doesn't make sense at this point, with the Vive so close), but I've got the Superlux cans and 3rd party earcovers), and I'm LOVING them. Nice sound, though quieter than expected - I've not dealt with anything but USB headsets for a while, so I'm pretty sure I need an amp, which I can't fault them for, I knew it was a possibility going in. In any event, though a bit quiet at this point, it's not to the point of unhearability or anything. I just can't make it annoyingly loud if I want to. I'm also irked at the tiny male jack hardwired into them - I'd rather have a flush female jack, but what 'cha gonna do?

Beyond those two TINY issues (the first is only an issue due to my not realizing they'd need a bit more juice, and the second is annoying, but not at all a dealbreaker), I'm LOVING them for the price. Reproduction sounds pretty good (good enough for mixing with, anyway), and comfort is GREAT (they feel VERY light). YMMV, but I'm a happy camper with my Superlux HD668B semi-open cans (just don't forget the (<$10!) 3rd party covers - they REALLY improve on the default comfort).

EDIT #2: I'm a jackass. I had them plugged into line-in. When I found a second line-in (this one actually labeled and recognized by the OS as a headphone jack), the softer sound issue went away.

I think you are starting from the wrong place if you think it will be like Texan chili [con carne]. Mole negro and soft cheeses are the main culinary exports of Oaxaca and they are fantastic. This is one of my two favorite culinary regions in Mexico!

Mole negro
First off, the famous mole negro using the regional pasilla de Oaxaca pepper (aka "chile negro" when dried). There are many recipes for that; find one that has ingredients you can pick up at your local Mexican supermarket or order online. You can cook meat (often chicken) in it or use it to make enchiladas enmoladas. They're soft, cheesy, and the rich, black sauce has a great pepper flavor but also a complex mixture of spices that lend subtle notes to the flavor like a fine wine. Every abuelita in Oaxaca has her own special variation on the recipe.

Traditional meal: nopales + meat + oaxaqueño cheese + guajillo sauce
Another personal favorite coming straight out of restaurants in Oaxaca is often called the Conquista Plate. As you can see, a thin steak over grilled cactus, Oaxaca cheese and chile guajillo sauce. The cactus is nopales; learn to love it's mild flavor, as it's in tons of authentic Mexican dishes. Guajillos are a fairly mild chili with a distinct, tart taste. They're also used all over Mexico so you should be able to find them pretty easily. Oaxaca is famous for cheese, so you can also easily find that in most Mexican markets.

Recipe for the sauce (use only guajillos and ancho). You can find your own instructions on grilling nopales and the steak or whatever meat you want to go with it. That red sauce can basically go on anything.

Chile verde: more like a SW "chili"
Although it's not from further south than Chihuahua and Sonora and has become a staple in New Mexican cuisine, chile verde is probably going to be the best marriage of rich Mexican sauces and a more traditional southwestern US "chili" where chunks of tough meat are stewed or braised in the sauce until tender. I've tested and approve of this recipe as a basic starting point. However, in The Food Lab, Kenji goes into detail about why it's better to let this dish braise in the oven. Here is his final recipe, which is amazing and pretty simple once you get through it a couple times (and usually provides leftovers for days). I do believe he is a bit misinformed (in the book, in particular) about how unique Hatch chilies are; the exact same chilies are widely available as "Anaheim peppers" in addition to other sub-cultivars of the classic "No.9 chile". But I digress.

More about chile verde and SW food
I collected about a dozen cookbooks when living in NM trying to find more chile verde recipes to try. Two more recent ones I highly recommend are New Mexico Cuisine: Recipes from the Land of Enchantment and Red or Green: New Mexico Cuisine. For authentic Oaxaqueño recipes, I have only read Oaxaca al Gusto: An Infinite Gastronomy but it's very good and sub-divides the region to give you a sampling of coastal seafood, cheese from the mountains, and about a thousand mole recipes!

Finally, I want to say I agree with your friend: Tex-Mex is a mistake and traditional Mexican food is where the good eats are at!

The specs on that Omni Antenna

VHF Gain 4.5dBUHF Gain 4.3dB

Problem you have is Fox

It is stronger from Toledo but your best group of stations is from Detroit.

Since its a weak antenna and they suggest an ampthe situation with that is... it is always best to go with the largest antenna that you can because more signal is better than boost.

All your stations for now are UHF except Fox Detroit which is VHF 7

So I am only considering your Good and Fair signals because the Poor signals are weak and if you try to get them you would need an amplifier and you might boost your stronger signals too much by the time you could get the really weak ones.. I do use amps and strong antennas in my setup .. over amping can be an issue.. it can shutdown your tuner and you get no signals.

So that Omni antenna at 4db of gain is kinda weak .. better or best antennas are from 8 to 16 db of gain every 3.5db of increase in gain is doubling .. so going from 4 to 8 is like 125% stronger not 100%

If I was you I would get at minimum a VHF High antenna and point it at toledo where the weaker signals are coming from and then your signals from Detroit that are strong should come in anyway... if that doesn't work well for you then point it at detroit and you should get good reception

right now you can get one of these for $29 used acceptable from Amazon.. probably in perfect condition but you can always return it .... Or pay $10 more for a new one .. its up to you .. New might be worth it buy I bought my antennas from amazon warehouse and they were in great condition.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0024R4B5C/?ie=UTF8&condition=all

​

If you are supplying signal to more than one tv you might want a distribution amp

Alright, I can work with that.

To preface this, I recommend pairing one of the following headphones with a clip-on microphone - either a cheaper model like a [Zalman ZM-Mic1] (http://www.amazon.com/Zalman-Zm-Mic1-Sensitivity-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ) or a more expensive model like [Antlion's Modmic] (http://www.modmic.com/collections/frontpage) - rather than getting a headset with an integrated mic. From a price/performance standpoint, headsets almost never stack up. The headsets made by the real headphone brands are exceedingly expensive, and with a very small body of exceptions the cheaper headsets sound terrible.

Now, onward to the headphones. When I hear "isolation", "comfort", and "neutral/warm sound signature", the first thing that comes to my mind is [NVX's] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/624729/review-nvx-xpt100-a-direct-brainwavz-hm5-competitor) [XPT100] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J2G9qk7IOEA) ([$99 via Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/NVX-Over-Ear-Headphones-ComfortMax-Cushions/dp/B0093PVTPS)). I actually own a pair of these myself for use as moderate isolation movie/podcast headphones for when my house is too loud for me to use my open headphones, and they're among the most comfortable headphones I've had. While they don't take the top spot - no headphones without an AKG-style suspension strap will ever do that - they're definitely in the top five or so. Their sound isn't the most detailed out there, but they're fairly neutral, solidly built, and very comfortable, particularly given their price.

A more expensive step up would be [Shure's] (http://www.head-fi.org/products/shure-srh840/reviews/5056) SRH[840] (http://www.head-fi.org/products/shure-srh840/reviews/3768) ([$199 via Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Shure-SRH840-Professional-Monitoring-Headphones/dp/B002DP8IEK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426324378&sr=1-1&keywords=shure+srh84)). While I sadly haven't had a chance to try these out myself, I've heard little but good things about them. Formerly on Innerfidelity's wall of fame, and with consistently good reviews for their sound, comfort, and overall quality, they're definitely a solid choice if you're looking for a neutralish sound with some bass.

A third option would be the [Focal Spirit One] (http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/focal-spirit-one-page-3) ([$175] (http://www.amazon.com/Focal-529102-SPOH-Spirit-One-Headphones/dp/B007AH7YFU) or [$179] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008R9QRIU/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687702&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B007AH7YFU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0HS51KQ3XCE0J5B14R27) via Amazon for the black and white models, respectively). Focal has a quite a solid reputation in audio, but the Spirit One had some serious issues on its release due to manufacturing defects, and it suffered a rather bad reception as a result. These issues are said to have been since resolved, however, and the Spirit One is a very solid headphone at that price. The sound is a bit on the bassy side, but not extremely so, and is quite good for this price. Comfort may be an issue, however, as the One was quite clearly designed more for portability than comfort. While no review characterizes it as uncomfortable, it's a safe bet that it doesn't measure up to the other two in this regard.

Another rather unique option, albeit one with some inherent drawbacks, would be [Fostex's] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/570138/review-fostex-t50rp-my-intro-to-the-world-of-orthos) [T50RP] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/559233/review-fostex-t50rp-its-been-needing-a-review) ([$127 via Amazon] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/559233/review-fostex-t50rp-its-been-needing-a-review)). Now, the T50RP is, at stock, not the best-liked headphone. Though it is one of the (if not the) cheapest orthodynamic headphones in the world, its very poor comfort and [rolled-off sound] (http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/FostexT50RP2011B.pdf) have attracted a lot of criticism. Having a pair myself, I wholeheartedly agree with criticism of its comfort, but think its stock sound is better than people give it credit for. What the T50RP has going for it, however, is an [exceptionally dedicated modding community] (http://www.head-fi.org/t/618659/fostex-t50rp-incremental-mods-and-measurements), and some very high-profile modified variants. Modded T50RPs under the branding of MrSpeakers and ZMF can sell for $300, $600, or even $1,000, and experienced reviewers and audiophiles alike have claimed that they measure up to headphones in those price ranges. If you happen to feel a DIYish inclination, a T50RP can be quite a solid project to work on, and, in theory, it can get you $300-600 sound quality for a little sound of $200 accounting for the various materials it takes to mod them.

Now, there are, as said, quite a few drawbacks to the T50RP: the stock sound isn't for everyone, it requires more power to drive than the other mentioned headphones (not enough to cause issues at stock, in my opinion, but when modded it can be quite intensive to drive, almost assuredly moreso than your integrated audio can support), and it's absolutely terrible in comfort (if you do go for them, [a headband cover like this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00862522A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and a pair of [Shure] (http://www.amazon.com/Shure-HPAEC840-Replacement-Cushions-Headphones/dp/B002Z9JWZS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426325351&sr=1-1&keywords=shure+pads) or [Brainwavz] (http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1426325358&sr=1-1&keywords=brainwavz+pads) pads were what I used to take them from "terrible" to "pretty darn solid" comfort), and modding isn't for the faint of heart. After quite a while of tinkering, I've yet to get my own T50RP mod working properly. It's amazing value if you can make it work for you, but it's quite a significant amount of effort to achieve that.

I'm not experienced enough to offer a full end to end answer, but I'll try to fill in some gaps.

• the components in the audio setup with computer files are basically:
  
  • source: mp3/flac (if this is poor quality the whole thing will go poorly)
    
  • digital to analog converter: DAC is the thing that will convert the digital file into analog. This could be the soundcard, a standalone DAC, or one built into your amplifier.
    
  • preamp (optional): might be nice if you want to switch between multiple inputs
    
  • amplifier: for amplifying :)
    
  • speakers: take the amplified analog signal and push on the air to create sound.
    
    The first thing to consider is the DAC side. You computer's soundcard has a DAC, but depending on the model it may be pretty poor, and a much better DAC can be had for fairly cheap. For example my Dell XPS 13 is a very nice laptop, but the headphone jack has TONS of noise. I personally use a Fiio E10 which is a big improvement for $70, and has a very good headphone amplifier built in. That might not be a good option for you, but is an example.
    
    The next step is amplifying the sound. You have to general options.
    
• Amplifier to passive speakers
  
• Active speakers, meaning they have an amplifier built in
  
  The general thought is for a given amount of money active speakers will often sound better because the speaker and built in amp are designed together, but discrete amplifier and passive speakers have more flexibility and room to upgrade piece by piece down the road.
  
  An amp might have a good DAC built in, saving you from that step, and even a small number of active speakers do.
  
  An example off the top of my head is Audioengine. They are know for having very good components in your price range and make for a more apples to apples comparison:
  
  Passive with amp
  
• N22 desktop amplifier $200
  
• P4 Passive Speakers $250
  
  Active speakers
  
• A5+ Speakers $400
  
  I've never heard any of this stuff before myself, so these are examples, not recommendations! but reviews have said the N22+P4 sounds a little better. However the A5+ is all in one, and a little cheaper.
  
  I'm still trying to wrap my head around what is better for near field or not. It seems like many of the powered speakers you see are "near field studio monitors" meant for mixing and mastering, meaning they have flat response and sound good on a desk, where many of the passive setups are designed for enjoying music at a distance.
  
  
  

Why are there still fake-real knobs and such? Because.....

There was a long time where analog was it. It's all there was. 4, 8, 12, 16 track analog recorders. Behemoths of recording consoles. If GWA existed somehow in that day, we would all own little 2-track recorders, a small mic pre-amp unit, and a microphone. And you'd maybe have an analog EQ and compressor, big physical units that looked like this.

So when everything went digital, a decision was made. To preserve brand identity and user familiarity, they copied the physical unit into a digital VST application. Compare This real world Shadow Hills Compressor unit with The Shadow Hills Compressor Plug-in.

There isn't any reason beyond that. There is reasons to choose analog or digital, but not to have a UI reminiscent of analog units.


As far as heaphones go, I'll take you through what I own, and what I use most.

Sennheiser HD 650

Sennheiser HD6 MIX

These were gifts through a brief endorsement deal I had, and I run these through this headphone amplifier

For higer-end earbuds, I use Sennheiser IE 60's and Sennheiser IE 80's. These I primarily use for simple editing on the go, giving to performers to use on stage or using myself on stage, or for women tracking vocals or instruments who don't want to mess up their hair with big over-the-head headphones.

But, my most used setup, what has become my dream setup, and the one that I will always reach for first, is far from the priciest.

Sennheiser HD 280 Pro, run out of the computer through a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2.

This is my favorite setup. The 280 Pro's are $100, the Scarlett is around $150. The headphones are crystal clear, have tight response all through the spectrum, are rugged enough to get chucked the fuck around, are comfy, and come with a great quality screw-on adapter so they able to be used into a 1/4" connection or a standard 1/8" headphone jack. Their impedance means they don't need an amp and can be used as normal headphones. They sound JUST as good as pairs ten times their price, and they have a certain special something to their super-low end and high-mids that I haven't found. Go get these today. Trust me.

The Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 isn't used as an amplifier in this case, since the 280's don't need it. It serves as a USB feed out, with a nice little volume knob. USB out will always trump 1/8" headphone jack out audio. Plus, the 2 inputs are nice to have. I own two of these units, and one always travels with my laptop for an easy, portable solution for HQ audio monitoring, easy L-R in recording from a sound board, or easy audio out from my laptop.

Together, these things have a certain magic, and I don't have to break my bank or handle them like china dolls. They're both rugged and sound AMAZING.

EDIT: I forgot my in-ear molded earphones. I own a pair of Alclair Reference IEM's. They are a great price, sound incredible for stage or studio, and I got mine with wood backs and DAMN are they sexy.

I have a few, but it depends on your budget. If you are looking for all in one DAC and Amp combos, the two I would suggest are:

BUDGET

FiiO E10K and the NuForce uDAC3

Both of those would be great options for a budget solution, and they are tiny so they double as a portable or mobile Dac/Amp. They get power from USB, but it should be enough to drive 50ohm headphones. The Fiio is going to be the cheaper of the two, around $75, and the Nuforce will be around $100. Sometimes the Nuforce uDac3 will be around $70-$80 on amazon, but it's usually around $100.

MORE EXPENSIVE

If you have between $200-$300 budget, then I would recommend the Modi 2 and Magni 2 by Schiit Audio. It is usually referred to as the 'Schiit Stack" (because you literally stack them on top of each other lol), but you don't have to stack them.

If you go to their site, it will lists all of their amps, and all of their Dacs. The Magni 2 is the Amp, and the Modi 2 is the Dac. There are the basic versions (which is what I have), and they run $99 each if you order directly through Schiit, which comes out to $200 for the set. They also make an "Uber" version of each, which runs about $150 bucks per unit, which is $300 total. The differences between the standard and Uber version or sort of minimal, but the Uber version of the Schiit stack is regarded by many audiophiles as the best "budget" audiophile Dac/Amp setup. For the price, it rivals many solid state and tube amp and dacs that cost $500+ dollars.



I have the Standard version, and it sounds great with my AKG K612's. There is a list somewhere of all of the headsets that sound great with the Schiit stack, and what kind of sound signature you get out of each. The best thing to do if you already know what kind of sound signature you like out of your headphones, is to find the Headphone + Dac/Amp combo that produces that type of sound, and pic that. But I would say that the HD598's + the Schiit stack will be perfectly fine for you, but of course that will be up for you to decide if you were to go this route.

MY SUGGESTION

I would recommend the budget route, at least until you know what kind of sound signature you like. Some people want flat sounding cans, others want bright highs (probably really good for hearing gunshots and footsteps), others want a more warm sound, where the mids really break through the track and the bass really kicks.

The budget option will be a cheap way for you to determine if the HD598's produce the type of sound you like. If they do, then you can upgrade your Dac and Amp in the future, OR just change to a different headset if you decide that you want more highs, or more low end.

Some ideas that have worked well for me/others:

Aging Parents - Kind of expensive (fluctuates a ton) but if you have a parent with a ton of photos who talks about scanning them all in someday, this scanner is fantastic. I have the older version and it's literally so easy to use that even my mom and dad could figure it out when I let them borrow it. Not a great bulk doc scanner but exactly what you need for photos. Pair with a case like this to store the originals in and you've done a great deed.

Newlyweds- If they don't have specific interests, a picnic blanket goes over well. I have the one linked and it's nice for the cheap price. Pair with some wine, maybe some other picnic accessories. I'm also giving a minted gift for a custom designed print for wedding photos to my brother/new sister-in-law.

Teens- Move beyond the selfie stick - some phone lenses go a long way, get a self timer for the phone, or a PowerCore. The powercore isn't sexy but super loved by all. I usually hit up BaubleBar or Sephora for deals too.

Handyman- I shoved this cheap light in my husband's stocking last year and he loves it. It's super handy.

Homebody- This is out of stock in the best size right now but it always comes back in. It is the softest blanket ever, doesn't shed, and we bought them for every room of the house.

Dog- What dog doesn't love bully sticks? A good deal, really good quality and my dogs have loved them.

On my wishlist- A milk frother, The Food Lab cookbook, a magnetic pincushion, maybe some Ugg slippers, a bunch of Etsy art and Essie gel couture nail polish. Debating a special purchase for myself with a bonus I received, I'm thinking a camera for a big trip coming up if I can find the right holiday deal.

Basically gonna echo most of the answers already posted, but just to pile on:

• 8" chef's knife. 10" is longer than may be comfortable and 12" is longer than necessary, but 7" may start to feel a little short if she's ever slicing large melon or squash. I'm a casual knife nerd and I have knives by Wusthof, Victorinox, Shun and Mac. My favorite.
  
  
• This Dutch oven. Enameled and cast iron just like the Le Creuset that a few other comments have mentioned, but much, much cheaper. I own two and they're both great. I also have the non-enameled version for baking bread, but I don't recommend it for general use unless you're a Boy Scout. Here's an entertaingly-written blog post comparing the Lodge vs. Le Creuset in a short rib cookoff.
  
  
• This cutting board and this cutting board conditioner. The importance of an easy and pleasant to use prep surface can't be overstated. I'm listing this third on purpose; this is one of the most important things your kitchen can have. A recipe that calls for a lot of chopping is no fun when you're fighting for counter space to do the chopping, or doing it on a shitty plastic board.
  
  
• A cheap scale and a cheap thermometer. Seriously, these are as important as the cutting board.
  
  
• Just gonna crib this one right off /u/Pobe420 and say cheapo 8–10" (I recommend 10–12" but that's my preference) nonstick skillet. One note I'd add is that pans with oven-safe handles are a bit more dual-purpose than pans with plastic or rubberized handles. You can't finish a pork chop in the oven in a skillet with a rubberized handle. But one could say you shouldn't be cooking a pork chop on a nonstick pan to begin with. The important thing is to keep this one cheap: you're going to be replacing it every couple of years, there's no getting around that. For my money $30 or less, and $30 is pretty expensive for these things.
  
  
  

• Cookbooks
  

  Nothing inspires cooking like a good cookbook collection. The great news about cookbooks is that they're often bought as gifts or souvenirs and they make their way onto the used market cheap and in great condition. Here are my suggestions for a great starter shelf:
  
  

1. The Food Lab by J. Kenji López-Alt. I kind of hate that this is my number one recommendation, but I don't know your wife and I do know J. Kenji López-Alt. This one is brand new so you're unlikely to find it used and cheap, but as a catch-all recommendation it has to take first place. Moving on to the cheap stuff:
   
   
2. Regional French Cooking by Paul Bocuse. This is possibly the friendliest authoritative book on French food out there, and a hell of a lot easier to just dive into than Julia Child (Julia is the expert, and her book is an encyclopedia). Bocuse is the undisputed king of nouvelle cuisine and people like Eric Ripert and Anthony Bourdain (so maybe a generation ahead of you and I) came from him. Paul Bocuse is French food as we know it, and yet this book—an approachable, coffee-table sized thing—still has a recipe for fucking mac and cheese. It's outstanding.
   
   
3. Theory & Practice / The New James Beard by James Beard. These will completely cover your entire library of American cooking. Nothing else needed until you get region-specific. When you do, go for something like this.
   
   
4. Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking by Marcella Hazan. When she died, the NYT ran a second obituary that was just her recipe for bolognese.
   
   
5. Christ, top five. Who gets 5th? I'm going with From Curries To Kebabs by Madhur Jaffrey. Don't get bamboozled into buying "Madhur Jaffrey's Curry Bible" which is the same book, repackaged and priced higher. You want the one with the hot pink dust jacket, it's unmistakeable. This is one of those end-all books that you could cook out of for the rest of your life. It covers almost every diet and almost every country that Beard and Bocuse don't.
   
   
6. Honorable mentions: Here come the downvotes. Pok Pok by Andy Ricker. If you're American and you want to cook Thai, this is the one. Ten Speed Press can go home now. The Book of Jewish Food by Claudia Rosen (so close to making the list). I shouldn't need to say much about this; it's the book of diasporic Jewish food, which means it covers a lot of time and almost every possible country. It's a no-brainer. Thai Food by David Thompson (a perfect oral history of Thai food for English speakers, only it doesn't include Pok Pok's precise measurements, which in practice I've found important). Flour Water Salt Yeast by Ken Forkish. Not for someone who just wants to become a baker, this book is for someone who wants to make Ken Forkish's bread. And for a casual bread baker I can't imagine a better introduction. Pleasures of the Vietnamese Table by Mai Pham. Andrea Nguyen is out there and Andrea Nguyen is awesome, but I really like Mai Pham's book. It's accessible, reliable and regional. You don't get the dissertation-level breakdown on the origins of chicken pho that you get from Andrea, but the recipe's there, among many others, and it's fucking outstanding. Veganomicon by Isa Chandra Moskowitz and Terry Hope Romero. This vegan cookbook is dope as hell and will really expand your imagination when it comes to vegetables. This could actually have been number five.

Are you a flashlight geek? Are you cheap, want to test the waters, and just happen to have some 18650 batteries around? Are you a tinker-er or would you just like your first set-up to have replaceable batteries so you only have to buy one device?

The cheapest way to get into this is with the $20 (often on sale for $12) [Plastic Bolt]
(http://www.madvapes.com/plastic-bolt-black.html). Be warned, it IS cheap. Expect it to last about a month before the hot melt "potting" breaks loose from the 510 connector and gets wobbly. It will still function. Mine lasted about 3 months before I turned it into a passthrough (uses a PC Power Supply instead of a battery. If you know a bit about electrons, once you pop open the case of this device it should be immediately obvious how you need to wire it to the 5V rail). If you want something more permanent look at this guy $43 or this guy ($38). They're not that much more expensive and are good solid performers. I don't care anything about the safety fuse, but hey, it comes with it, so you might as well.

Now You'll need some batteries and a charger. I highly recommend getting IMR chemistry batteries. ICR chemistry batteries tend to fail spectacularly, while an IMR just vents. These failures are rare, but can be caused by drawing too much amperage off the battery, either intentionally (you made a coil with too little resistance for your battery) or unintentionally (coil shorted, device shorted, etc.) and sustaining that load (leaving the button pushed in your backpack, hard short in the device that you left on the other side of the room). Again, these failures are RARE, and often caused by negligence. But you're a geeky type, so you know better. If all your batteries are ICRs or you don't have any, the best price per performance is this guy ($8) or this guy ($11) These are great batteries and, should you decide you really like this stuff and want to blow fat clouds, they will carry you into sub-ohm rebuildables. Check your battery voltage often (you do have a multimeter, right?). I recharge at around 3.7V, but you can take it down to 3.3 safely, below that voltage drops fast and you'll (permanently) kill the battery below 2.5V or so. Once you get used to it, you'll feel the vapor output and throat hit drop off and know it's time to recharge.

If you don't have a charger already, I have the $30 EFEST LUC (no serious complaints) but this $18 Nitecore i2 comes highly recommended by many users.

Now, we are trying to keep with the cheap thing, and there is no better way to get good flavor, throat hit, and vapor on the cheap than a dripping atomizer. Being able to change flavors rapidly is just a nice bonus (you're new, you'll probably want to try all the things). You want low resistance (1.4-2.0) ohms since you're running off battery voltage. P=V^2 /R power is directly related to vapor/flavor output. A good starting point is 8-10W, so about 1.8ohms or 1.5ohms (respectively). This guy ($6) and this guy($6) are often praised as a being high quality, but still cheap. or you can jump straight into rebuildable drippers like this little guy ($8). It comes prewicked and should last as long as the disposables listed above, but once it dies, you just recoil and rewick instead of throwing it away (I'll leave this as an exercise for the user, but let me just say that you can buy a couple lifetimes worth of resistance wire for $10 and a couple lifetimes worth of cotton wick for $5) Remember when i said those batteries will take you all the way up into sub-ohm rebuildables? So will this atomizer. When you're ready just recoil to a lower resistance. Aint that handy?

If dripping sounds like too much of a hassle then the $10 Iclear 30 sounds right for you. I haven't used it, personally, but people will not shut up about how much they love this thing.

Now the juice is a whole 'nother world and it's really hard to make recomendations. If you can I HIGHLY reccomend going in to a brick and mortar E-Cig store and sampling flavors. Buy from them. Yes it's more expensive, but you probably spent an hour trying stuff out and it'd be pretty shitty to walk out and buy it from the internet. If you don't have a brick and mortar then go to these places and order what sounds tasty in the smallest bottles they have. You'll find that what you think you'd like doesn't always correlate to what you actually like. here's a few that I like:

http://thevaporchef.com/collections/frontpage/products/slartibartfast

http://thevaporchef.com/products/honey-pearry

http://www.mtbakervapor.com/nicotine-juice/thug-juice-e-juice-baker-vapor/

http://www.mountainoakvapors.com/product-p/mo-dt-1019.htm

These set ups should have you outperforming the typical ego and cigalike set ups for not much more money and leave you a lot of head room for future growth. They're also cheap enough that if you decide you hate vaping (inconceivable!) that you're not out much and can probably sell it to someone looking to upgrade. Good luck and happy tinkering.

So many points to hit on, I'll try and help with that I can. I'm in the US so I'm not really sure what the pricing and availability is in your area, so my help will be somewhat limited haha.

If you are wanting to do a 2.0 system with the option to upgrade to 5.1 in the future, much of your budget will be going towards a 5.1 receiver. The suggestions mentioned in question 1 are good suggestions, but you also need to take a look at your TV and see what audio out connections are available. Some TV's, like mine for instance, only offer an optical out for audio. If this is the case for you, then the SMSL SA-60 will not work without a DAC in between. Something like the Fiio D3 would suffice. Also, chances are if you go this route, you will lose the ability to control the volume with the TV remote. Getting something like the SMSL Q5 Pro instead might be a better option. It can accept multiple audio inputs (digital and
analog, so no need for a DAC), and also has a cheap remote for controlling volume and other stuff. You can also use the Q Acoustic Speakers with these amps as well. However, either of these amps would have to be replaced in the future if you decide to upgrade to 5.1. But they would be great for a 2.1 setup.

In the US, with that budget (300 euro = $335) and a future 5.1 in mind; I would get a Pioneer VSX-530 Receiver ($200), and the Micca MB42X Speakers ($90). Then I would start saving for a subwoofer like the Bic F12 or ML Dynamo 300 (depending on the size of the room). Once I had a sub, I would then save up for better bookshelfs (3 of them...something like empteks or elacs or who knows what), and relocate the Micca MB42X's to the rear. This would be a a respectable 5.1 setup that will blow away pretty much any home theater in a box.

Anyways, hope I was of at least some help. Best of luck with your setup!

A (sort of) comprehensive guide on the most popular hyper x headsets

ALPHA
I have alpha and it is good but I had to buy brainwavz hm5 pleather pads because my ears touched the drivers. This is relatively expensive (22.5 us). I also wanted surround, so I got the dongle for the revolver s but it was very staticky so I returned it. Other than that, now the stereo is good, with good clarity because of the dual chamber driver, although you might hear static unless you put it to studio quality in Windows.
They also only come in black and red, and the cable twists up a lot, so I twist tied down the part of it I don't use.

REVOLVER (S)
From what I heard, there is more bass on the revolver and revolver s but the headband causes ambient sound absorbtion issues, and the s has surround but again, for me the dongle didn't work, so I'm not sure for you.

(2)
My friend has the cloud 2 and he said he gets static with the dongle too, but aside from that, they are basically the alpha but more comfortable without replacement pads, surround sound, extra velour pads in the box, a carrying case and worse sound quality and mic quality then the alpha. These come in black and red, and gunmetal.

(ORIGINAL)
The original clouds I don't know much about, but I'm pretty sure they are the same as the cloud 2 without the replacement pads and worse mic and sound quality. Black and red and black and white colors as well

(FLIGHTS)
The flights from what I've heard are similar to the alpha, with the same comfort issue (still compatible with brainwavz hm5 pads), wireless, but with some permanent static, because they are wireless a mute on the side of the headphones and good battery life.

(STINGERS)
The stingers are the best headset for a budget and are basically cloud 1s but with worse everything (build quality, sound and mic) and cost 50 usd.

(OTHER MODELS)
Other than that, I don't know anything about the cloud core or the cloud x (specifically for Xbox).

(MY RECOMMENDATION)
If you have the money to spend, (122.5 usd plus tax) I recommend the cloud alpha, the brainwavz hm5 pleather/memory foam pads, and in windows, changing the advanced audio settings to 48 khz studio mode, but take this with a grain of salt.

(REPLACEMENT BRAINWAVZ HM5 PADS)
For reference, the replacement pads all take a few minutes to stretch on to the alphas and flights

PLEATHER
Brainwavz hm5 pleather/memory foam link (more comfortable, smaller soundstage then velour, same sound quality as vanilla pads)

https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Memory-Replacements-Earpads-Headphones/dp/B00MFDT894?th=1

VELOUR
Brainwavz hm5 velour pads (better soundstage, less comfortable then pleather/memory foam pads), also a dust magnet

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MFDX4YO/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?psc=1

HYBRID
Brainwavz hm5 hybrid pads (not recommended, but in between velour and pleather. It is better to stick with one or the other, this one isn't very good

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J53KM32/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?psc=1

OTHER
there is also a sheepskin model, but I don't know if it will stretch well to fit or have sound differences.
Also the angled and circular hm5 pads will not fit, so don't get those.
Sheepskin link

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J53KM32/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?psc=1




Good luck with the purchase.
Sorry my formatting sucks I'm on mobile.

EDIT: While I was typing this, the other guy described the sound of the alphas, 1s and 2s good, so read that post as well.

I don't really have advice on your original post, but I used to be just like you when it came to cooking. Cooking for me consisted of throwing a piece of chicken on my George Foreman grill until it was burnt (no salmonella for me!) and eating raw vegetables because they required no cooking.

There is so, so SO much info out there on how to cook. If you love watching videos, look up videos on YouTube. If you love reading, invest in some cookbooks. If you have a friend who loves to cook and does it well, ask him/her for some basic lessons.

Aside from my boyfriend who loves to cook (thankfully), I've learned the majority of my cooking skills through some great cookbooks. The Whole30 book has so many great beginner tips and delicious, obviously healthy recipes; even when I'm not doing Whole30, I constantly refer to this book for recipes! If you're a science/chemistry person, The Food Lab is pretty amazing.

I think a lot of people get scared of cooking because YES it can totally be daunting and time-consuming and hard! But it doesn't have to be. You don't need to make gourmet meals for yourself every night; just figure out some flavor profiles you love and recipes that are easy.

So, people are always talking about finding something to quit smoking, but you are on 0 nic now, and you still want to vape for fun. What do you want then?

The mod: Smoktech Magneto. This is a solid mod with a good price tag. this will net you the opportunity to try out some "sub-ohm rebuildables" and high wattage vaping.

Batteries: Samsung INR18650's. Some good batteries here, not the highest of the high end as far as batteries go, but extremely powerful, decent capacity, and for the newbie, great safety.

To charge your batteries: Nitecore i4. Super safe, solid charger. not much to say here.

For the clouds: Smoktech RSST. A lot of people really don't like dealing with stainless steel mesh, but inside of this tank, I get some of the best flavor I've ever had, better than the glorious cotton microcoils.

As far as juice goes, just buy what you already like in max VG to start. It's really the best vape experience out there. There's no loss in flavor at all, and with rebuildables, it's a match made in heaven.

I also have HS5's and I got the 2i2 on sale for $100. I got it mostly for the outputs for the monitors, but I felt wrong using a cheap dac with such expensive speakers. I previously had a Fiio D3 dac and used the 1/8" output to a 4 channel headphone amp, and then split one of the outputs from that to 1/4" jacks for each of the monitors. I didn't need a 4 channel amp, I just wanted a way to use headphones with separate volume control. That worked just fine honestly. Still great sound, I just like the simplicity and premium-ness of the Scarlett. Plus it's really nice to have a headphone jack on the front of the interface, where with my previous setup it was on the back of the amp. I also use an xlr mic to chat every now and then with friends when I play games, so that's nice. But that doesn't seem to apply to your situation. So if you want MUCH better quality than your motherboard's sound card, go with the Fiio and a couple adapters. It's also worth noting that the Fiio I mentioned only has optical toslink and coaxial input. If you motherboard doesn't have digital audio, you're out of luck for it. The usb on it is purely for power. But I'm sure there are nice usb dacs at a decent price too. If any of this doesn't make sense or you need more help, just let me know, I'd be happy to help or clarify! :D

Edit: also nice to see someone else on the Yamaha team. I am absolutely in love with mine. Worth every penny

Edit2: I actually use the xlr inputs on the monitors, even when I used unbalanced connections. I like how much beefier xlr connections are than 1/4". But that's purely personal preference. They worked just fine though

Last edit, I promise. I don't recommend using a super cheap dac like a $6 one. You spent $400 on monitors, get something decent or you might be wasting the potential of those monitors. The Fiio is $30, so try to aim for something around that.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3C/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_8KJ7wb98HJERG
And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_MLJ7wbBXAEYJ0

And you'll be set

I've heard of their 3020, but supposedly the Concept 20 is the same driver in a different cabinet? The What HiFi review makes it sound like the cabinet alone is worth the price difference. That could be true, but I am not going to rely on their word for it. I think it would be best if you could arrange for an audition or, better still, buy them with a good return policy so you can send them back if you are not satisfied with them. This is the most reliable way you could test out 2 speakers because you know best what is important for you. As for bass, it is also part of the music and I feel a faithful reproduction is essential to the experience. I do not own a subwoofer myself because I am satisfied with my MB Quart 490 and their 7.5" woofer. The bass is present but not overpowering at all and it makes all the difference when listening to Pink Floyd or The Coup.

Anyway, what I meant was the audio files will be converted from digital to analog at one point. In your case, it would be the PC's onboard solution. Now, depending on your PC, your onboard solution could be great or it could suck (distortion/constant hum etc.) ! To get around this some people use the digital output on their PC (USB/HDMI/Optical) and the conversion is performed using another device. Since usually stereo amplifiers do not have any way of accepting digital input, the go-to choice is a separate DAC like Fiio D03K / Behringer UCA202. Some people also a get a headphone DAC like Fiio E10K because they need a portable amp for their headphone in addition to a DAC. Others may need more than just a DAC - for example there could be a need to take the HDMI input and send the video to a TV and the audio to speakers. This is where a receiver comes in. A receiver is basically an amp + many more options for inputs, but it could be overkill if you only need a DAC. Used receivers could be cheap, though, and they are quite popular because of the input options you get. Goes without saying that you may not need a separate DAC at all, but just something to consider.

Phew! Hope that helps! :)

A decent system if it all works. The turntable is just OK, but perhaps that's all you need.

The Key to a turntable is the Tone Arm and Cartridge (stylus/needle). Your turntable appears to be a P-Mount, meaning the entire Cartridge assembly just plugs into the tone arm. There are many replacement P-Mount cartridge available. The tone arm look like a generic DJ tone arm similar to that found on Stanton, Technics, Audio Tecnica, and Reloop. That's not the absolute best, but still decent; no problems.

http://www.needledoctor.com/Audio-Technica-92ECD?sc=2&category=16684

http://www.needledoctor.com/Audio-Technica-311EP?sc=2&category=16684

This appears to be a more consumer version of Technics DJ turntables. And assuming it is in good condition, and well oiled, it is probably very good considering the price you paid.

Generally Technics are considered good equipment, and they are now re-entering the audio market again with a new line of equipment.

You can give us the model number of the amp and we will look up specs on it, or you can simply use Google to look up information on the amp. You should be able to determine the power, and the range of years in which it was made. If the amp is at least ~50w/ch, then it is most certainly worth having and using assuming it is in good working condition.

It is difficult to see the Amp Model number but the closest I can determine is SU-V78 - 100w/ch to 8 ohms.

http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/technics/su-v78.shtml

Oddly the Technics SU-V76 is also 100w/ch -

http://www.highqualitymanuals.com/images/large/products/HD/HD84//HD84_2.jpg

The AM/FM Tuner should still work, and will pick up radio stations just fine even with the most basic antenna.

The Cassette Player is an Antique unless by chance you still have a stack of Cassettes available to play.

The CD Player, assuming it still works should be fine as the standard for CD has been locked into place since its inception.

The speakers are fine; good sided. The key with older speakers is the Surrounds, the foam or rubber ring that attaches the actual cone to the frame. If foam these can deteriorate, and sometimes disintegrated over time. Gently touch or rub your finger on the surround and see if it is gritty or crumbling. If so the surrounds can be replaced for a fairly modest fee.

Given that you got this for FREE, there is one other aspect you could consider. It is possible to use a Stereo system to enhance the movie watching experience very considerably. However, modern TV do not have analog audio outputs, most have Digital Optical Audio out, though a few have Coaxial.

Given that you got a pretty nice system for free, you could spend some money, assuming you are into movie watching, and get a DAC (digital to analog converter) to allow you to plug the TV into the Stereo. These can range from about $25 for just the basic DAC, up to about $500 for a more complex multi-input DAC.

You can see a range of possibilities here -

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=DAC

The output of the TV is limited to a 48k Sample Rate about CD quality, so a very basic $25 DAC is probably adequate if you are not too serious.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468898121&sr=1-2&keywords=DAC

Some thing like this will give you one channel that is either Optical or Coaxial, another Coaxial only Channel, and USB-PC for connecting directly to a computer.

https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-Azur-DacMagic-100/dp/B0078Q35PG/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468898121&sr=1-10&keywords=DAC

The speakers, though I can really determine, appear to have at least 10" woofer, and they should sound pretty good. I think this will make a fine movie and music system.

In my opinion, the best option is to buy a regular pair of great headphones, then buy a mic to go with them. No gaming headset will sound as good as a pair of headphones for the same price. Get a pair of headphones in your price range, then a mic and the audio splitter will be an extra $18.
I currently use a pair of Audio Technica M50x's, which I bought to listen to music with and wound up using them for gaming. They are very comfortable and sound fantastic, although I personally wish they had a bit more bass, for gaming. For a microphone, I prefer the Pyle-Pro PMEM1 Headworn Mic, because it sounds far better than any other microphone I’ve used. Some people like the Zalman Clip mic, but in my experience it didn’t capture my voice clearly and picked up a ton of ambient noise. I just wear the mic underneath the headphones, which is perfectly comfortable. MAKE SURE YOU BUY A SPLITTER! The mic won’t work on the PS4 without one. I use this one. Overall, it’s ~$180 for a great gaming setup, and you get an amazing pair of headphones that you can listen to music with and wear out of the house.
If you want to look into a different pair of headphones, The Wirecutter has some phenomenal advice on headphones. They also have a list for gaming headsets, and I would take their advice on those if you have your heart set on a headset.

Consider getting a cheaper pair of headphones The Wirecutter recommends if you won’t use the M50x’s for anything else other than gaming, but they are among the best headphones for listening to music, and work great for gaming.

Headphones:
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PMEM1-Headworn-Omni-Directional-Microphone/dp/B003D2S7HA/ref=pd_ybh_a_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8HYQKPP2BHCSX3M8WW8N

Mic:
https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PMEM1-Headworn-Omni-Directional-Microphone/dp/B003D2S7HA/ref=pd_ybh_a_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8HYQKPP2BHCSX3M8WW8N

Splitter:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_ybh_a_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=05264WVDYHC2FG0SSX1W

Other Headphones:
http://thewirecutter.com/leaderboard/headphones/

As far as wireless headsets that are surround sound, you have the following compatible with Xbox One:
>Turtle Beach

>* Elite 800X - $299 - Great when it works. I personally had issues with 3 sets and decided it wasn't for me.

• Stealth 500X - $229 - Model before the 800X. Same 50mm drivers as the 800x basically the same, but without bluetooth compatibility for the phone app and bluetooth audio. This is the wireless solution that I decided was best for me.
  
  > Astro
  
  > A50 - $299 - There is an A50 that is out now that is commonly referred to as the "Halo A50." It is the current generation model that comes with the headset stand, base station, etc. It's a great headset that is mostly wireless. For chat, it requires a cord from the headset to the controller.
  
  > A50 (new) - $299 - This version is not out yet, and has been delayed. The biggest difference between the newest model and the previous generation is this model is completely wireless with no cords from the headset required.
  
  >SteelSeries
  
  > SteelSeries Siberia X800 - $309 - This wireless headset uses a cord to the controller for voice chat. I am unfamiliar with the headset but it seems like a valid third brand option, in no particular order.
  
  >Wired Headsets
  
  > This requires some type of surround sound receiver, headphones, and a mic. There are bundles available from Astro, Turtle Beach, Razer, SteelSeries, etc., but one can obtain better quality by mixing and matching the best of each part: the receiver, the headset, and microphone (if it isn't included in the headset)
  
  > Surround sound receivers
  
  > This is pretty much between Astro's Mixamp Pro TR and Turtle Beach's
  
  > Astro's Mixamp Pro TR for XO, PS4, PC and Mac - $130 This is one option for dolby digital 5.1/7.1 surround sound decoding and Dolby Headphone encoding for any standard stereo headset.
  
  >* Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC - $199 - This is a second option for DTS surround sound via DTS Headphone:X 7.1 Surround Sound. A lot of options that aren't available on the Mixamp Pro TR are on the Turtle Beach TAC such as being able to adjust background noise, microphone boost and mic monitor levels instantly and physically.
  
  
  > Differences between Astro and Turtle Beach They both do a great job at providing situational surround sound to stereo headphones. With the current firmware updates for each respective unit there does seem to be a sound quality difference with a lot of people prefering the Astro. I recommend plugging in headphones and watching this video and hear the differences for yourself: Astro Mixamp Pro TR vs Turtle Beach TAC
  
  >Headsets
  
  > Some of the best headsets recommended by those on HeadFi.org can be read about here. This is where I had come to my selection of the AudioTechnica ATH-AD700.
  
  > If you would rather buy a wired surround sound headset ready to go out-of-the-box
  
  > For a wired ready to go set, I'd have to put my money on the Astro A40 Mixamp Pro TR, although I personally prefer open-back headsets instead of sound isolation closed-back headphones.
  
  If it were me buying a set today...
  
  I would want something wireless so it would be the newest Astro A50 that comes out in October, or the SteelSeries X800, but then again, it is because I've went down the wired path, using a mixamp or DSS with many different wired headphones and mics. Even if I didn't have cord-loving cats, I'm glad that I have a wireless headset. It really is a personal preference that you can't really pin down, until you try some yourself.
  
  A side note: I have an average sized head, but larger than average protruding ears. Every headset I've purchased, I've swapped out the earcups with aftermarket sets. Most notably brainwavz HM5 earups. They are deeper and more comfortable for me and have worked on most sets of headphones without modification. I highly recommend them. They come in Pleather - various colors, Hybrid pleather + Velour, and just Velour

Higher-End Beginner/Intermediate Setup with Clearomizer or Carto Tank Option


This is a bit of a different recommendation. I've seen some requests lately where someone says, "money is no object." This is for the person with some cash in hand who wants something that's going to last and perform reliably well. I've included recommendations for both a clearomizer and carto tank.

___

ProVari V2.5

18650 AW Batteries for ProVari (get two)

ProVari Extended End Cap to accept 18650 batteries

Provari Wrap (Not necessary, but good to have some protection.)

ProVari Beauty Ring (Not necessary for the recommended tanks, but a nice accessory.)

Kanger Aerotank and
replacement coil heads

AGR Locking Carto Tank

Cartos for AGR (Don't bother with unpunched cartos. Pre-punched are great.)

Luer Lock Syringe for filling AGR Carto Tank

Nitecore i2 Intellicharger

Seduce Juice Sample Pack

The Vapor Chef Butter Beer and Honey Pearry

Drip Tip for cartos

____

Other Great Juice Vendors

Adirondack Vapor - excellent high-grade juice. Placid is a must-try.

DBLiquids - great, affordable juice from a good guy

The Plume Room - excellent flavors that work particularly well in a clearomizer

Alice in Vapeland - subtle, often delicate flavors

Grizzly Vapes - affordable premium juice. Nanner Bear is excellent.

Captivape - solid mid-grade juice from a great vendor

Velvet Cloud Vapor - natural, organic flavorings, 100% VG

Ok, Thank you. Here is a similar setup to what I use. My personal one is a bit more sophisticated but nonetheless, these items will certainly get you started and aim you in the right direction.

-

Let's start with the Mixer:

Your mixer will be your new interface. Rather than plugging one microphone into your computer you'll plug all your microphones into one mixer which then will be connected to your computer via USB.

Microphone - Mixer - Computer

Here is a good starter at a decent price. It'll be your most expensive single piece of equipment (unless you decide to get top tier microphones). You'll be able to EQ and set levels to each microphone hooked up to the mixer before sending it to Audacity (or Audition, Reaper). You can also hook up more than 3 mics, a guitar, your phone, maybe you want to hook your computer up to it to play a sound, basically anything that sends one signal to another, you'll be able to do it with this and record it.

• Behringer QX1202USB 12-Channel Mixer
  
  -
  
  Next Microphones:
  
  If you're able to hook up a mic cable (XLR) to your Blue Yeti, you can still use that microphone, too. Obviously, switch your polar pattern to cardioid that way it's more directional and doesn't pick up as much room noise. Also, try to point it away from your AC unit. Regardless, since the Blue Yeti is a condenser microphone, it'll pick up more room noise because it's much more sensitive. That's why in broadcast situations you'll always see dynamic microphones such as the Electrovoice RE20 or Shure SM7b. For your own sake, I would do some research on condenser vs dynamic but any website you shop at (or if you go to Guitar Center in person) you can filter microphones by condenser or dynamic. I highly recommend buying yourself 3 dynamic microphones to reduce room noise.
  
  Here are my microphone recommendations:
  
  
• Cheap - Behringer XM8500 - You'll likely need a mount and windscreen or pop filter
  
• Low - Shure SM58 - You'll likely need a mount and windscreen or pop filter
  
• Mid - Rode Procaster - No mount, windscreen/pop filter necessary
  
• Best - Electrovoice RE20 - No mount, windscreen/pop filter necessary
  
  -
  
  Finally, your Accessories:
  
  You'll need 3 XLR's to hook 3 microphones up to the mixer. I recommend purchasing them from monoprice.com - very cheap cables that last a long time if you learn to wrap your cable correctly.
  
  Same with your microphone stands:
  
  
• Simple Tripod Microphone Stand
  
  Most microphones you buy will come with the mount for it. If you get the Behringer XM8500 or the Shure SM58 you might need one of these if it doesn't come with it:
  
  
• Mount
  
  Also, for both of those mics I definitely recommend buy either a pop filter or wind screen to put over top to reduce plosives. If you don't know what plosives are, google it. You wont need to worry about plosives if you purchase the Rode Procaster or RE20.
  
  
• Windscreens
  
• Pop Filter
  
  
  One very last thing to mention is headphones. Through the mixer, there is a headphone jack where you can plug headphones in to monitor the mix. However, there is also something called "Main Out" or "Control Room Out" - you can send your vocal mix to an external Headphone Amplifier/Splitter that way you and your friends can all listen to the mix in real time.
  
  Audacity is a good program but I recommend getting familiar with Reaper The trial version is free version and I think after the 60 day evaluation you're still allowed to use it although it may press you to buy it. I personally use Adobe Audition but that requires a subscription. If Audacity works fine for you, then by all means.
  
  I apologize for the long post and I hope it's not too overwhelming. Mixer, Microphones, Cables, Stands, and headphone splitter is basically what this whole post is about! Feel free to ask questions.
  
  If all else fails just find a podcasting kit to purchase from somewhere and go from there http://www.bswusa.com/Podcasting-Packages-BSW-Internet-Radio-Going-Pro-Kit-Dual-P10534.aspx

• Budget: ~$150 USD
  
• Source: PC (Gaming), if they rock maybe my phone.
  
• Isolation: Unsure, usually I use closed headphones. But I hear the ATH-700xs are great for CS:GO and are open. Wouldn't mind trying open ear.
  
• Public: Probably not.
  
• Size: Full sized over ear headset.
  
• Tonal Balance: I like my bass in music, but these headphones are for CS:GO almost exclusively, was seeing good things about the ATH-700xs being light on the bass and it helping not drown out footsteps. I'd prefer more bass for my music but CS is the priority.
  
• Previous Headphones: For gaming I have had SteelSeries Siberia v2, didn't like the sound quality. Comfort was good. HyperX Cloud 1s sound quality quite a bit better, comfort about the same. Currently using the clouds. I have had Beats in the past, they were alright, on par with my $100 pair of Klipsch headphones. I quite enjoyed the Klipsch over ears, not sure what type specifically.
  
• Music Taste: Almost exclusively hiphop, with some 80s rock and a little folk/pop mixed in.
  
• What I want to improve: I want a better headset for CS:GO. My Cloud 1s were pretty solid but the quality has deteriorated over time.
  
  My three main considerations now are: ATH AD700x, Sennheiser GAME ONE, Sennheiser PC363D. Although I do not have USB 3 will that matter at all? I do not need 7.1 sound. The AKG K612 Pro seems around my price range and is reviewed quite well. It seems like the ATH-AD700xs are the headphones to go for as they are about half the price as the rest of the options I suggested. Is it worth spending the extra money on any of those headsets? Also do I need to consider an AMP of any sort for these headphones? I was recommended something such as the FiiO E10k earlier. Not sure if I need an amp or not, I would be willing to purchase one if it allows for me to unlock the full potential of my headset. But not just to spend money on another toy and eek out another 1% or 2% of performance.
  
  Thanks a ton for reading! Any insight is more than welcome.

Your room is really functional, and you're trading off style for function. Honestly, if you really want to make your room look nicer, take the Computer and Musical instruments out, replace the space with some seating, and a small table (maybe with a TV), leave some open space in your room.

As far as what you can do with what you have... Most students are in the same position you are, not a lot of space for our stuff and everything we have is there because it functions well. For instance, that chair that you have is an eyesore, but I'm sure it's comfy and you spend a lot of time in it (I have pretty much the same thing in my room, crappy looking chair, but I love to sit on it; in fact I actually have the same Chassis and speakers as you as well...).

Here's what you can do... Pick a Color Scheme, lose the blinds, and move your desk in front of the window if you're going to keep it. It would be best if you could kind of center it at the window, but I don't see anywhere else you can put your bed.

Your computer is the only thing which can't change color, so go with sometimes like White/Orange, stay away from dull colors and grays, take a chance, paint the walls with orange and white stripes or something(I like orange and white if you didn't notice).

Next, make sure everything is organized. Your room isn't dirty or really messy, but it's cluttered, it looks like everything was just thrown in there. Grab a couple of storage cabinets, shove them in your closet, and throw everything in there that you can bare to not have at arms reach (take some chances, you can always keep something out if you find that you need it too often). Do your best to clear up as much desk space as possible. A desk is not a storage space, it's a workspace, it looks best when it's cleared off.

Thus musical stuff will always look poorly in your room; it has too many wires. If you can find a place to put it elsewhere in the house, that would be best, otherwise, grab these and use them on every cord. Take a second to wind everything up when you're done using it and keep all of the cords out of sight when you're not using them.

Putting some stuff on your walls would be cool too, I like that everything you have up is framed. In my opinion, A few framed items or a lot of unframed items look great on a wall, but I think having a couple of loose posters looks tacky. A few more framed items would be cool (band posters/artwork/movie posters, whatever you're into).

Finally, never understood the rug on carpet thing, especially if it's just another solid color, and especially if that other solid color is black. I would ditch it, if you want a rug, get something colorful and contemporary (this is really the key word for you). The rug is an opportunity to have a centerpiece/focal point/glue that holds the room together, so keep that in mind if you go shopping for another one.

And of course, pick up the chair, clean your closet, put away your vacuum, fix your light bulbs, and pick all that shit up off the floor you lazy son of a bitch...

> need an amp for voice chat purposes

This is a strange statement. Voice chat is typically easier on headphones than music is.

But nevermind, let me answer your actual questions:

> I have heard good things about the Fiio E17

So have I, but I've never used it myself. It is battery powered, which may prove inconvenient. There are also cheaper options in the same price range: Monoprice has one (probably a white-labeled FiiO). The FiiO E10K is a USB AMP/DAC. Schiit also has one... but read on.

> would it be better for me just to buy a soundcard instead of the amp

A sound card is nothing more but a DAC/Amp. I prefer external DACs and Amps, as its easier to mix and match as I acquire more pieces. Sound cards tend not to be as high quality as external devices... but it really is just a matter of preference.

> Which amp would you recommend?

Don't get an amp right now. Get the Q701s, listen to them, then decide if you need an amp.

An amp is one of the most expensive ways to improve your sound, and the Q701s don't really need it. The dac/amp in your computer should be more than powerful enough for them. Heck, I just plugged my pair into my phone and it got ear-splittingly loud.

Instead of getting an amp, figure out if you need one:

Line noise: Turn the volume up to max, but don't play any music. Plug in your most sensitive headphones (in-ears, most likely). You should hear silence. If you don't hear silence, a good dac + amp will remove that line-noise.

Overall Power: Turn the volume all the way down. Plug in your listening headphones (Q701 in this case) and start up some music. Now turn it up until the music is playing at a conversational volume. This is the level at which you should be listening. If the volume dial is < 50%, then you don't need an amp. If it's between 50% and 80%, you may benefit from an amp. If it's past 80%, get an amp. (my rule of thumb)

The most important thing though, is that the headphone is the most cost effective way to improve your sound. The amp/dac is a supporting cast ONLY. Collect them if you want (it's fun after all), but don't expect the same level of improvement that you got by getting your first headphone. In fact, today's integrated dac/amps are so good, that any benefit you hear from an upgraded dac/amp may actually be the placebo effect.

In short:

1. Get the Q701s
   
2. Use them
   
3. Figure out if you need a dac/amp. You probably don't.
   
4. But if you want to get a dac/amp anyway, get one that looks awesome. The Magni/Modi from Schiit are good choices.

Hi! I'm by no means an expert on the subject but I did learn a few things while pursuing a quality audio experience and its kind of turned into a new hobby.

Simulating surround sound was something I wanted to achieve as well when shopping for headphones a while back. Something I learned is that the headphones themselves can't really do this. The right kind of headphones (and sometimes software) can help this effect but you can't magically turn 2 channels (I.E. right and left) into 4 or more to get multi-directional sound. In gamery types of headphones, the marketing makes all kinds of claims that its the total fault of the headphones but it's simply not true.

The only real way to get a simulated surround effect in your headphones is if the source had this in mind from the get go. And after that good quality headphones can help a bit further. This can be easily demonstrated with this video. Plug in ANY pair of headphones in your house and for added effect? Close your eyes. Seriously even 3 dollar earbuds from the dollar store will work. And what you'll notice is a full high-quality multi-directional, surround sound experience from just youtube and whatever headphones you happened to try. Neat! But how?

Games and movies ect need to have an audio engineer design the sound with this concept in mind known as binaural. In games, this is usually the "headphone" mode in options settings. Or it'll just be on by default. There are times where a game simply won't have it and no amount of software can change that going into your headphones. Software can't magically know that the bullet was supposed to be behind you instead of in front of you.

What does this mean? That you can get virtual/simulated surround sound from pretty much any pair of headphones? Yes! Learning this concept to me was the beginning of something new. I started looking at simple high-quality headphones that could help make the effect even more dramatic.

I learned about open vs closed back headphones. Closed back headphones make you feel like the sound is sort of coming from inside your own head. This is fine especially if you want to block out other sounds from your room or house ect. Open back headphones let sound in your headphones from the outside, allowing for a more natural 3D effect in most cases. I did a lot of research on open back headphones. I ended up getting the AD900x's. I know this might be expensive-ish but there's a good option for optimal sound on a budget.

I got this combo deal for my fiance. You'll get an open back experience to help further the 3d effect you're after and ontop of that these headphones sound fucking GREAT for the money. Seriously makes me mad that I was buying gaming headphones for all these years leading up to what I learned. Check it out.

• Headphones
  
• Replacement earpads. (optional) The stock ones made me and my fiance's ear sweat like crazy. Not comfortable.
  
• Microphone.
  
  Now, this is just a suggestion. Just use whatever you thought sounded better when it came to your logitech's or Beats after making sure headphone mode was on in the game you're playing. Hopefully, I've given you enough to do your own research on the subject. But. For the money? I found this combo to be amazing for gaming and surround sound. Just make sure you always turn on "headphone mode" in games and you'll get the 3D experience you're after. Learn more at https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/
  
  ----------------------
  
  TLDR; Some audio nerd info. I'd personally just use whatever you thought sounded better when it came to your logitech's or Beats after making sure headphone mode was on in the game you're playing. Seeing as the surround sound effect is mostly due to the source. If you ever want to try and make the 3D effect more dramatic I linked a suggestion on a budget.
  
  

It's not 50% faster, it just has 8 GB VRAM versus 6 GB VRAM. Games today don't even use that much so you're really talking about future gaming. Yes, if you keep raising your budget, you will get a faster computer and GPU. If you want to spend the extra money, then go for it. It's really not that big of a jump from 6 GB VRAM to 8 and definitely not worth the extra $400 in my opinion, but that's up to you. Remember, the mobile versions of GPUs are slower than the regular ones in desktops. You're looking at a 1060M 6 GB and 1070M 8 GB. I would save the money for a larger SSD, more RAM, good speakers or a good headset instead, and get the Asus GL502VM-DB74.

If you game and want good sound and use a headset/headphones check out the Sennheiser PC 363D headset (Amazon link) or the other Sennheiser gaming headsets. If you use speakers, check out the Micca MB42X (Amazon link). Make sure you use a DAC like the Schiit Modi 2 or DAC/amp like the Schiit Fulla 2 to get the best sound possible. (Fulla 2 is very new and not yet on Amazon, but you can still get the original Fulla from Amazon and other retailers. It's better to just buy the Fulla 2 from the Schiit website.) Some other good options are: Micca OriGen+, FiiO E10K, AudioQuest DragonFly / AudioQuest Dragonfly v1.2, Audioengine D3, SMSL M2, etc. Check out /r/BudgetAudiophile /r/Audiophile /r/Audio and /r/Headphones if you want more info. The great people there taught me a lot about quality audio. You can also check out /r/AVexchange for good audio deals.

It's not pretty lol. We tried to zip tie everything together to make it at least understandable haha

EDIT: Hijacking this post since there are a LOT of common questions. Oh and /u/smilenataliew is the wife :)

FAQ:

>How did you connect everything to the TV/What adapters did you use?

NES through Gamecube (bottom 4): We have a 4-input composite switcher (those Yellow/Red/White cables) between the N64 and Gamecube, connected to our TV's 3.5mm composite port (which looks like a headphone jack), which we convert with cables like these. We do not recommend a composite to HDMI converter, as the output (might) look garbled from older systems (it did for us).

Wii: Component cables to HDMI converter, then into a remote controlled HDMI switcher (switcher and controller can both be seen to the left of Kirby Amiibo/the Wii)

WiiU & Switch: HDMI to the same HDMI switcher

>Don't the controllers just fall out when you open the case? How are they secured?

The NES controller is resting on a WiiU controller stand, oddly enough!
The SNES controller is the most finnicky. It's slightly leaning back on its own cords, but it's hard to get it to stay put.
The N64 controller is leaned against a stack of N64 games--it's definitely the system my wife and I have the most games for already!
The Gamecube controller is leaning against two other stacked gamecube controllers.
The Wii controller is just just leaning up against a thick piece of cardboard (more cardboard is also holding up the NES and SNES systems since the bottom of their doors would block view of the systems otherwise. My wife intends to wrap all cardboard with contact paper to make it all more decorative, she's very crafty!)
The WiiU has the same controllers as the Wii, except for the screen one, which is on a stand that actually charges the unit while it sits on top of the WiiU system!
The Switch controller actually stands on its own with the joy cons connected to them, but I've decided to actually show the charging station we bought with the joy cons connected to it so that they'll always be charged and ready to go!

>Where are the games?

Behind the controllers! In fact the N64 controller is leaning on a stack of them.

>Cable management? Do you have controller extenders?

Lots of zip ties in the back, and as for controller cables, we bought ~100 of those velcro straps for cords so we can wrap them up for neat display storage without wrapping the cords around the controllers. We also have extension cords for all corded controllers since the consoles don't exactly come out of the unit!

>Where can I get the display case?

It's a piece of furniture so it's a bit expensive, but it's definitely what we wanted after searching for a couple weeks! It's on Amazon

>You could have just emulated it all!

I love having and playing on the original consoles, but emulation is also awesome!

>Where's the Virtual Boy?

It doesn't connect to the TV so I didn't feel the need to get it for this project, but I DO want it for my collection! (Also kids should wait a bit before they play with a 3D device, even the 3DS)

>Where's Nintendo's even older console, the Color TV-Game?/Where's the 64DD?

Those were released Japan only, but I might still want to get them! I believe the controller and the console for Color TV-Game are both one unit, and space is limited, so it might be tough to integrate it if I want to get it!

>Where's the TV? CRT??

Mounted on the wall above the mantle. Sorry, no CRT...yet.

>PHOTOSHOPPED!/I swear I saw this before!

lol why would anyone photoshop this? Definitely real. I'll provide a few more images if I can. And definitely my setup! Though I'm sure I'm not the first to do something similar.

>lol fake niece

The niece and story are real, but if I'm being perfectly honest this is more for me than her haha

I'm not saying your Edifiers aren't fine, but that it's not what they were designed for so you'll need to be a bit unorthodox when adding a subwoofer. I'll give you 4 options:

1. Keep the Edifiers and pick up a Pioneer SW-8MK2. This will cost the same as the Yamaha sub you were looking at. Connect your current RCA cable to a volume knob like this one. Split your signal coming out of there with RCA to Dual RCA cables and You're good to go.
   
   
2. Spend your money on a great pair of speakers and forget a sub for now. This will offer the best sound by far and you can always add a sub down the line. Maybe you find a subwoofer for sale locally. A pair of JBL LSR305 speakers would fit the bill here. You can add a cheap mixer if you wanted more sources and convenient volume control.
   
   
3. Purchase a pair of powered speakers with a sub output like the Kanto YU4. These are super convenient since you just connect a sub through an RCA cable and you're good to go. You can still fit in a cheap sub within your budget like the cheapo monoprice or the Acoustic Audio RWSUB-10. If you wanted to spend the extra bit for the pioneer subwoofer, that's great too.
   
   
4. Purchase a passive system with a separate amplifier. Assuming you don't have infinite space on a desk or something then pick up an SMSL Q5. Pick up passive speakers like the Pioneer BS22 or Micca MB42X. Choose any of the aforementioned subs that fit in your budget. Pick up cheap speaker wire to connect your speakers to your amp, and use an RCA cable to have your amp send signal to your sub.

>Are "good" expensive headphones, like Sennheisers for getting loud sound? Because doesn't an amp make things loud? Are good headphones worth it if I'm going to be listening quietly?

Well louder isn't technically the right word even though amplifier have that effect.

See headphones drivers in the earcups are what actually produce the sound, and the quality of those drivers is what determines the quality of the sound.

Inside the drivers you have something called the voice coil. As current is pushed through the coil, it creates a magnetic field, which reacts with another magnet inside the driver and finally produces sound. Now to simplify a bit, the thinner the coil is and the less air between individual wires, the better sound you generally have. The design is much less prone to distortion and produces more natural bass. However as other have said, the gains can be pretty marginal.

Now having longer and thinner coil, means that for certain physics reasons I'm not going to go into here, you'll need to push more power into that coil in order to produce a loud sound. This is generally referred to as headphone impedance. The higher the impedance the more power the headphones need, impedance is measured in ohms. For some comparisons;

• Apple earbuds (as well as most other earbuds) are around 32 ohms of impedance.
  
• HyperX Cloud II's are around 60 ohms.
  
• Sennheiser HD 600/650's are around 300 ohms.
  
  Personally I'd say that you'd want an amp at around 60-70 ohms, but that's just me.
  
  Now all of that aside, there are tons of great headphones out there that don't need an amp at all. Like the excellent Audio-Technica ATH-M50's or Sennheiser HD 598/599's.
  
  --------------------------------------------------------------------
  
  However for desktop use you don't really want to get an amp by itself, you want to get a Digital Analog Converter as well. See the actual sound setup in most PC's is less than ideal. It's really easy o cut costs with motherboard audio while still making it sound at least decent. If you slap an amp on that, all the distortions and crap that your motheboard audio produces is going to be amplified by your amp and will ultimately make your new high end headphones sound like shit.
  
  So you want a DAC. A DAC takes the digital signal from your PC, does some fancy techno magic on it and outputs an analog signal that can be fed to your headphones. This completely bypasses the horrendously bad soundcard on your motherboard and gives you a lot better audio.
  
  For a simple and pretty cheap entry level DAC/Amp check out the FiiO E10K. It's a nice little piece of gear that's going to be enough to drive almost anything up until 250 ohms. Obviously there are a lot better options out there as well. But the E10k is a great entry level device that'll improve your sound significantly. Pair that with some Sennheiser HD 599's and you're set for a long time.
  
  Also if you want more advice check out /r/headphones/

Thank you all for your detailed responses.

I ended up getting the LSR 305's from a local store with a good return policy. One of the employees took me into a closed test room where the 305 sounded much better. I really liked the ADAM F7 but for the price I couldn't justify over the 305.

During the testing I was able to turn on some subs with the speakers. For some reason the JBL 310s was barely kicking, a lot of times even sounded off if u weren't next to it. I was sure it was a setting/cable issue but the guy tried everything and it didn't improve. Now, the Person T10 on the other hand, boy do those babies kick out a nice clean punch. I had never heard of that brand before but I really enjoyed them.

No money to buy a good sub setup yet so I'm holding off. With that said I was pleasantly surprised with the nice clean kick the 305s offered in my room. It went from feeling non existent at Guitar Center to small but nice tight kicks in my room.

My problem; I have these hooked up with a 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 TS 10ft cable. The source is my Sound Blaster Zx. I'm getting a normal quiet hum when speakers are not plugged into the Sound Blaster which is fine, mostly only noticeable if I put my ears near the speaker. Now when I plug them into the Sound Blaster I get a very loud hum/static sound and when I move my mouse it whines. When playing a game this gets even worse.

My temporary fix; Put the volume knob on the back of the speakers to 4 instead of maxed at 10. This makes it to where the noises are nearly inaudible. But by doing this it also makes it to where volume isn't nearly loud enough for music (Windows Volume 100%) and just loud enough for other things.

My research; Many other people have experienced the same issue. Trying other cables, moving speakers/computer to other wall outlets hasn't worked for most people. What seems to have worked for most is either buying a FIIO D3 digital to analog convertor https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797050&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+d3 or using a Ground Loop Isolator https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797119&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&psc=1.

Any other suggestions that doesn't require purchasing extra stuff from amazon or at least finding these items locally in South Florida would be welcomed.

My question; I've heard that "Balanced" cables may help solve this issue. Forgive my ignorance but It is my understanding that the cable I bought is Balanced on the 3.5mm connector but unbalanced on the 1/4" side. Does a cable exist that is Balanced 3.5mm to dual Balanced 1/4" connectors? I haven't been able to find any, guessing it has to do with the cable splitting. What about going with 3.5mm to XLR, would that help?

My listening experience so far; I've only tried out YouTube music which since I'm a pretty casual audio listener is normally my main source of music. They sound much different than what I'm used to. I spent hours playing around with my Sound Blaster EQ and even went as far as going -2 on the LFT and +2 on the HFT on the back of the speakers.

I kept trying to get women vocals to be high enough to reproduce the hairs on my arms standing up feeling I have gotten so many times in the past when they hit that high note. Particularly when this girl hits the "rolling in the DEE-EEEE-P" part of her song https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7UFm6ErMPU. No matter what I did I was not able to reproduce it. It feels like I cant get where I need to be without upping the higher frequencies and lowering the others. This does seem to get me closer to where I want to be but before I can hit the sweet spot the song starts to sound off.

With that said, I can definitely tell that these speakers are producing a much more quality sound than what I'm used to in the past. Although I'm unsure as of yet if that is translating into a more fun listening experience. Also for the first time ever my hearing is feeling very fatigued and somewhat muffled. I'm guessing its from all the tuning and listening I have been doing but at the same time it is very odd because I have not put the volume higher than what I've been accustomed to in the past.

Watching Twitch.tv;

Not sure if at this point it was due to my hearing fatigue but It felt different listening to these people talk. Like I had to pay closer attention to what they were saying or it would sound mubled/muffled. One guy I had never heard before sounded like he had too much bass to his voice to where it became muffled. Normally I'd chalk that up to a bad Microphone but b/c thousands of other viewers weren't mentioning it. I'm guessing it was on my side

Round up with very limited listening time;

Bass: Was expecting next to none. Pleasantly surprised.

High pitched vocal: Not hitting where I normally get goosebumps.

Overall listening: Sounds very quality but not yet sure I'm enjoying it as much.

Problem: Caused hearing to fatigue and sound muffled with very limited listening time and not very high volume.

Thanks for reading.

Hey there, I posted yesterday too and need some more advice in deciding for a headphone+mic combo

Budget: $300, flexible

Source: My PC, so I guess standart audio output/USB

Requirements for Isolation: I'm currently using Sennheiser PC 360, which are completely open. I love this design because I don't like being cut-off from the world when I'm sitting at my desk

I will not use them in public, maybe a lan-party or two a year but thats it

Type of Headphone: I have very sensitive ears, so nothing that touches my ears.

Tonal balance: Balanced

Past headphones: Sennheiser PC 360. I've had those for over 5 years now and I love them. I can wear them for long gaming sessions and the microphone is usually pretty good. I use my headphones 90% of the time for gaming

Preferred Music: I listen to everything, EDM and classical music is what I hear most of the time

What am I looking for?: I'd love to hear where exactly enemies are, crystal clear sound and comfort even when wearing it for 5 hours+

I want a headset that I can have on my head for extended periods of time without any loss of comfort.

I looked into the Sennheiser HD 598 and into the Phillips Fidelio X2/27

Friend of mine also recommended me this one: http://www.amazon.com/AKG-701-Studio-Reference-Headphones/dp/B000EBBJ6Y


Same friend also recommended this Amp DAC
http://www.amazon.de/FiiO-E10k-Olympus-Kopfh%C3%B6rer-Verst%C3%A4rker/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463518630&sr=8-2&keywords=kopfh%C3%B6rerverst%C3%A4rker


Top Priority for me is comfort and sound quality.




Thanks in advance!

Great job on taking the first steps!

---

Regarding FreeNAS (my preference). There are a ton of guides out there about how to set things up and what to do. My personal setup and favorite guide is 6 raw disks in mirrored zdevs. After running raidz3 for a year, then backing up, then trying out a raidz2, then reading to NEVER do raidz1, I decided to do a final backup, and rebuild into mirrored zdevs, and I've settled in and been running it now for about 4 years with 0 issues. I cant espouse all the benefits of this setup because the article I'm linking below will do a MUCH better job than I can in this post.

Read more about mirrored vdevs and why to use them here.

TLDR: instead of raidz1, raidz2, or some other structure, use mirrored vdevs to create your storage pool.

DISK0 & DISK1 = VDEV_A
DISK2 & DISK3 = VDEV_B
DISK4 & DISK5 = VDEV_C

...

DISKn & DISKn+1 = VDEV_n


last step:
storage_pool = VDEV_A & VDEV_B & VDEV_C & VDEV_n

---

Now if you are still reading, then great! Let me share a few things about operational uses for your home server.

1. Buy and use a Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS).
   

• These cheap to medium expensive items are a godsend for cleaning up power from an outlet, protecting against surges, and to help aide in proper shutdown of critical (homelab) systems. These are important for the longevity of anything you plug into them.
  
• Smart UPS's have a Network Management Controller (NMC) of some sort like this one
  
• Regular UPS's don't have an NMC, but are just as capable like this one
  
• Consider a Power Distribution Unit (PDU) as well. Think of this like a large power strip.
  
• Real Life Example: Use a APC 650 UPS for your entertainment center and plugin your TV, Gaming Systems, Set-Top Cable Box, Lights, and anything else. Can hit one button, or for more advanced UPS's schedule a full power down during vacations, or time away from home, etc.
  
  

2. In regards to a Rack or Cabinet; go Square Holes!
   

• Round holes are ancient
  
• Round holes strip easily
  
• Square Holes are more "modular" / configurable
  
• Invest in cage nuts like these for the best results
  
  

3. Try to build micro or mini-atx for a FreeNAS system because of Power Savings and Quietness
   
   
4. Accessories
   

• Budget for things like VGA-to-HDMI, DVI-to-HDMI, HDMI-to-MiniDP, and a whole sort of other dongles.
  
• Budget for 12" power cord extenders to turn large power bricks into standard sized power cords to fit a power strip
  
• Speaking of power strips, budget for a nice PDU, or several high quality power strips that can be mounted with screws on wood and/or zip-ties.
  
  

5. Cable Management
   

• Cut and crimp your own Cat5/6 Cables, or buy lengths that make sense (1', 3', 6', 10')
  
• Velcro - seriously will need these
  
  
  I missed a few things I'm sure, but this is probably too large of a post to keep going. Happy building!

> ... how do you get the best possible quality out of a set of PC headphones for gaming and streaming services like Netflix? Say you had a budget of $200. Do you spend it all on headphones? Is a sound card important here? Is a headphone amp? I'm interested in how each of these work with a PC specifically.

That's a good question. For under $200 for an entire setup you're likely not going to need a separate amp. Most headphones in this price range will be low impedance, so they won't need much power anyway. Depending on your PC you might have a decent onboard DAC on your motherboard. If you built your PC and the motherboard cost over $50 your sound should be quite good, so I wouldn't recommend eating into the budget of your headphones. However, if you feel like you get any background noise from your headphone ports or want something with slightly better sound, you could get a fairly cheap DAC/amp like this one. (Keep in mind this will take away from the budget of your headphones). If you do buy a DAC, make sure it has some kind of built in headphone amp or that it doesn't require extra amplification.

For $200 this is what I would recommend buying for movies/tv, music and gaming:

• Option 1: 200 bucks on a single pair of headphones; that's it. If you feel like your motherboard has decent sound, then put all of the money into what will make the biggest difference; the cans on your ears. Spend as much as you can on a good pair that fits your tastes in sound characteristics. For a closed headphone you have lots of choices, too many to list or recommend. For open cans the AKG Q701 is fantastic for detail and sound stage and is under $200 currently.
  
  
• Option 2: If you don't like the quality of sound coming from your motherboard (static, noise or low dynamic range) you could spend around $50-$100 on a fairly good DAC/amp and then spend $150-$100 on a quality pair of headphones. If you want closed cans, I would look at the ATH-M50 series or Sennheiser HD-380s which are on a fantastic sale. (I own the 380s, they are phenomenal for that price). If you want open headphones the Fidelio L1s are crazy cheap right now.
  
  Personally, I wouldn't buy an internal PCI sound card for a few reasons. For one, they are in close proximity to high voltage/amperage components which can introduce EMI and noise into the signal. Also many internal sound cards aren't as good for the money as an external DAC/amp and they often have really iffy driver support and need updates. External setups usually don't need to be touched and are pretty much universally compatible since it's just USB or optically connected. The biggest benefit of an external DAC/amp is the portability and ability to easily use it on another computer, laptop, phone or other device.

You're gonna need a receiver. Even if your TV does have speaker outputs the receiver is just gonna make everything easier, it'll sound better too! I live in the US so I need to convert...

Your budget is $1145

If you're completely new to this stuff, I can help lay down the basics.

A receiver is a device that 'receives' signals from audio sources, amplifies them, and sends the signal out to speakers. There are two channel receivers, which push audio to two speakers. Five channel receivers are for surround sound, and push sound to five speakers. Seven channel receivers allow for two extra surround speakers to a five channel setup. Right now, you're just looking for a stereo setup, so a two channel receiver will do the job.

This is how you set up a receiver.

On the back of a receiver, there should be a series of terminals or 'plugs', either HDMI, white and red rca jacks, or optical plugs. Next to them should be a term, something like 'DVD', 'CD', 'TV', or 'AUX'. This is to help distinguish the audio sources you are putting into the receiver. Plug your source into any one of the plugs, then turn the receiver on. On the front, there should be a dial or a button labeled "Source". This is used to select the audio source you plugged into the back. For example, if you plugged your source into 'CD', you would then find CD on the receiver display using the source button or dial. This is the jist of it. There are settings to adjust the bass, treble, balance, and other stuff on basically any receiver, so you can tune it to your liking.

Next up is setting up the speakers.

This next step requires some wire cutting, but it isn't difficult at all. I've done it with scissors. If you have ever seen stereo speakers before, you'll notice they don't have wires attached. They will have some red and black clips or screws on the back (Call them terminals). The receiver has these same things as well. Inside the terminals is bear metal, and this is where the signal is transferred. You will need to get some speaker wire and cut the tips off of each end, then attach one end to the receiver's terminals, and the other to the speaker's terminals. Speaker wire consists of two wires sealed together. One wire should have a mark along it or be colored differently, so you can make sure you match up the terminals correctly. (Black to black- Red to red) Do this for both the left and right speakers.

Most receivers can drive two pairs of speakers. (An A system and a B system.) So you will see two sets of black and red terminals. It doesn't matter which one you use, just make sure the speakers are connected to the same system, then select the system you want on the receiver.

If you're only wiring two speakers, it shouldn't be that much work at all. Ten minutes tops to get everything wired.

Now the fun part!

Choosing the system! I'm jealous as I didn't have this big a budget for my setup, you'll be in for quite the treat.

The Receiver

If I were you, I would buy a vintage receiver from the 70s. If you're into ease of access and all that I can understand, but vintage sound is really something else. It has a warm sound to it, and you usually have to pay maybe four times as much for a new receiver to get something similar. (They also look awesome.) Almost all of them have turntable amps too, so if you want to get into vinyl in the future you're basically set.

You can find them on Ebay. If you can, buy one locally off of Craigslist. Look for something by Sansui, Kenwood, Marantz, or Pioneer. Expect to pay $200-$500 for a good one.

You could also get a new one if you want bluetooth and a remote. Bear in mind it probably won't sound as good as the older stuff. Onkyo, Yamaha, Pioneer, and Sony are generally the cheaper of the bunch. Denon and Marantz tend to be higher quality.

I would strongly recommend buying vintage if you're not doing a home theater. You'll get diminishing returns paying the same amount for a modern receiver. You'll probably just get more channels and surround decoders which you aren't going to use anyways.

The Speakers

In this price range, I would look at these companies for speakers: PSB, KEF, Bowers and Wilkins, and Martin Logan to name a few. They make excellent products and I think their field fits snugly into your budget.

My recommendations:

PSB Imagine Bs. $880 pr (Ebay)

KEF q350 $650 pr

Martin Logan Motion 15 ~$350 ea

What I think you should do is let the speakers drive your budget. Choose a pair then use whatever you have left on the receiver.

​

If I were to suggest a full setup for you, I would get the PSB Imagine Bs and a Kenwood KR-6030 with some Amazon Basics wire. (I literally just slapped this together.)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-PSB-Imagine-B-Dark-Cherry/112709601866?hash=item1a3e040a4a:g:b-UAAOSwEVpboe5G:rk:2:pf:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JUST-SERVICED-VINTAGE-KENWOOD-KR-6030-AM-FM-STEREO-RECEIVER-EXCELLENT-SHAPE/163318231169?hash=item2606867081:g:iNMAAOSwkwdbqqiF:rk:1:pf:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0WDQ/ref=sr_1_3_acs_sk_pb_1_sl_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539928099&sr=8-3-acs&keywords=speaker+wire

​

Happy hunting!

I personally recommend the Klipsch ProMedia as the best sub-$200 option. Sound is really solid and it's definitely got the bass. Plugging your computer in is straightforward and I believe the newest version has bluetooth as well. Best Buy used to have it as a demo with their computer speakers, not sure if they do anymore.

A better option might be studio monitors like the JBL LSR305/LSR30X which are also an insane deal. You'd need to get a bluetooth adapter and you'd need to worry about inputs (many studio monitors take 1/4" or XLR, which would require janky adapters (probably won't sound great out of a headphhone out without something like this) or a dac/audio interface like this or this. The JBL approach will get you a better sound (more accurate to the music, more balanced sound, magical amazing beautiful and perfect imaging) but will probably be a bit above what you'd like to spend. Most of that stuff can also be bought used if you are okay with that.

I would try and stretch or save up a bit for the monitors. They're a pretty solid step up from most all "computer speakers," and the JBLs in particular are one of the best bang-for-buck deals in audio that I've seen.

Best of luck, and feel free to shoot me a PM with more questions or what you decide to do!

First time I wandered into this subreddit was yesterday, so I'm just a fellow noob, so keep that in mind :D

I don't know about them all that much, I personally have forwarded all of my research into the DT990 Pro's, but I think the DT770 Pro's have a V-shaped sound signature just like the DT990 Pro's, meaning that bass and treble are "elevated". I believe the bass is really strong in the DT770 Pro's. Here's some good discussion about the matter.

For the 250 ohm version I do think you will need an amp, but I think you will be just fine without an amp with the 80 ohm.

Here's a video review of them, the cans in the video are the 250 ohm versions but I think the difference between the 80 ohm and the 250 ohm is just that the 250 ohm gives a more punchy and accurate sound, I dont think they are all that different in terms of sound signature.

If you do plan on getting an amp, you might as well get a DAC too. I'm planning on stepping into the audiophile world soonish too, and I'm planning on getting the DT990 Pro's and this amp/DAC combo. People seem to say that it's enough for the 250 ohm DT990 Pro's, so I think it will be just alright with the DT770 Pro's too.

Don't be afraid to use Google, it's your best friend at finding the best headphones for you! :)

Edit: I'm not personally all that interested in buying expensive things used, if I'm buying something expensive I might just as well buy it brand new, just to ensure it works as it's supposed to.

If you want portability, the the Cyrus Soundkey or Audioquest Dragonfly red are your options. I use the Soundkey, and it's brilliant. The soundstage and clarity is vastly improved. Then again my daily drivers are the Audio-Technica ATH M40X. For a DAC + amp, then the Teac AI-101DA. It's a bit pricy, but however it's a good DAC amp. I don't have it, but I have heard mostly positive reviews on it, also Zeos, our legend, has reviewed it himself. If you are on a tight budget, well the FiiO - E10K Olympus, has got you covered. It's a really good amp+DAC for the money. A lot of positive reviews. If you are gaming, the Senhiser GSX 1000 is there. What I she said in here are the best in each section.

Links:

Cyrus Soundkey: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B073RFVHVY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720112&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=cyrus+soundkey

Audioquest Dragonfly red: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DFMV4NQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720178&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=cyrus+soundkey&dpPl=1&dpID=41JaKxrUrfL&ref=plSrch

Senhiser GSX 1000: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LDTP484/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720216&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gsx+100&dpPl=1&dpID=41ermQbCqAL&ref=plSrch

Teac AI-101DA: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UGYFWQC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720282&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=teac+ai-101da&dpPl=1&dpID=41dClv7EX-L&ref=plSrch

FiiO E10K Olympus: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LP3AMC2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720327&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=fiio+e10k&dpPl=1&dpID=41Taa5DTsKL&ref=plSrch

By the way. If you want, buy a fucking pair of Audio-Technica ATH M40X: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HVLUR54/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520720404&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=audio+technica&dpPl=1&dpID=41gFqXe5oBL&ref=plSrch

Zeos found the M40X'S brilliant.

I hope I helped you out, if you have any queries, reply to this comment. Good luck in finding what you want.

Most important things would probably be

1.) Hold it upside down when you clean the main chamber by swabbing with a q-tip dipped in ISO.

2.) Use a high % ISO. 91% or higher is best. 71% isn't terrible, but avoid anything lower. (I saw at Walmart they had 50%, like what the actual fuck, who wants to pay for 50% water?)

3.) Let the thing COMPLETELY DRY after cleaning. Take it apart and let it air dry for like at least 30 minutes.

4.) I highly recommend getting an external Nitecore charger and some extra batteries, but if you do use the cable I wouldn't recommend leaving it unattended. It even says in the manual to not let it charge unattended and plug it into a surge protector. You want to be there to unplug it in case something fucks up.

With the external chargers you won't have to worry about that. Leaving batteries unattended on a Nitecore charger is safe because they are loaded with safety features and come from a very reputable company. Also, you can charge up to 4 batteries at a time and still use a different battery in your Hopper.

2 battery slots; 3 LED lights display: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-i2-Intellicharge-Charger-Battery/dp/B0096U26QQ

4 battery slots; 3 LED lights display: http://www.amazon.com/NITECORE-Intellicharge-universal-battery-Charger/dp/B00KBFZDI8

2 battery slots; digital display: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Charger-Universal-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00KW2ZDJO

4 battery slots; digital display: http://www.amazon.com/Nitecore-Integrated-Displays-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B00L1XYX4Y


5.) Don't soak the Silicone condom in ISO unless you are OK with it turning a yellow/brown color. Just swab it with a Q-tip dipped in ISO.

6.) If something isn't working right like the straight to blue issue or it isn't heating up quite as much as it used too, then look at the battery contact on your back-end. If there is black gunk on the contact, carefully swab it with a Q-tip dipped in 91% ISO. Also, make sure the threads on the back are clean. Let it dry completely before using.

7.) Never ever ever ever let air be pushed into it. Like don't blow into it.



Also, Idk if you have heard of delta3dstudios and their awesome attachments yet, but their funnel that is designed for the Grasshopper is simply amazing. Makes loading a cinch and fits the GH perfectly and it is only $7(it was $8 when I got it). They also make other accessories for the GH as well as for other vapes.

You can have a killer setup for under $500.

Mic: Audio Technica AT2005 - A great mic that a lot of let's players use (draax, zueljin, kingdaddydmac, etc.). It also accepts xlr or usb inputs (more on that at the end). I use the atr2100, which is the same mic, just different color and warranty. The at2005 is cheaper by about $25 right now, so buying today, that's the one I'd get. It's a dynamic mic, so it blocks out sound that's not in front of it. Much better for noisy environments. Condenser mics like the blue yeti will pick up a lot more background noise. Other mics I've used are the V-Moda Boompro, which works with most headphones that have detachable cables (in my case the M100s) and sounds good, but changing the cable for when I didn't want to use the mic became old pretty fast. You can leave it attached, but then the boom mic is there all the time. I've also used the antlion modmic 4.0 and can't recommend it. It has white noise unless you use a usb soundcard, the cable is stiff and it's kind of expensive compared to full fledged mics. $56

Stand: Pyle PMKSH01 Suspension Boom Scissor Microphone Stand - A decent cheap stand. Nothing special, but it comes with an integrated xlr cable. I use this one, but may upgrade to the Rode PSA1 ($100) later on. The shock mount will not fit the at2005 however. $21

Shock Mount: On-Stage MY420 - A great shock mount that fits the at2005/atr2100. Shock mounts reduce noises from bumping your desk or tapping on your keyboard; things that may reverberate to your mic. It might not even be necessary if you're not a heavy handed gamer or if your desk is made of a thick, dense material. $25

Wind Filter: On-Stage Foam Ball Windscreen - Reduces wind/breathing noises as well as minimizing plosives. Not a complete necessity, but extremely cheap and it does help, so why not? $3

Cable management: Velcro One-Wrap Cable Wraps - I use these for keeping the usb cable for the mic attached to the stand. Extremely useful and cheap. $6

Headphones: Very subjective to user preference. I prefer closed vs open for noise isolation. Here's what I've used:

Audio Technica ATH M50: Good (not great) headphones for ~$100. Considered the standard by many, but to me they're just good. $155

V-Moda M100: Excellent sound with very potent bass. They make the M50s sound muddy in comparison. HOWEVER, the M100s have a design flaw where the "wings" (the parts above where you adjust the headphones) will crack over time. It happened to two pairs of my M100s. Unacceptable for the price of these headphones, regardless of how good they sound. $222

Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 80 Ohm: Amazing. Potent bass like the M100s, but even a bit clearer. Very wide soundstage for closed headphones. I paid $219 for mine and don't regret it a single bit. I might grab another pair at the price they're currently at. $150

All that adds up to around $261 + tax choosing the DT770s, and will be a killer setup for gaming. Far better than any "gaming" headset, and it even opens the option of streaming or let's play videos (the reason I got my setup). There is one more thing I'd add though, given the budget if you're serious about mic quality, and that's the $99 Focusrite Scarlett Solo 2nd Gen. It's a usb audio interface that accepts xlr mics. It gives you a bit more control over the audio coming out of your mic and cleans up the signal so you get less "noise" from the usb interface. Quality is good without it, but with it, it's noticeably better.

Hope this helps some! I spent quite a while researching things when I put my own setup together. :)

>I don't have a budget in mind but I also don't know what would constitute a decent deal. What kind of price point should I be looking at for mid-range stuff?

Do they have any vintage 70's receivers that they serviced for $150 to $300? Many have good phono preamps built in. What is your Craigslist city?

If not finding anything used: Refurbished stereo receiver, PIONEER SX-10AE $149.99 $119.99.

Will you also be using the speakers with a TV for better movie and TV sound? Then consider an AV recevier.

Phono preamp if there isn't one build into the receiver: Taking the Guesswork out of Phonostage Gain. The ART DJ Pre II $67 has an adjustable gain dial. The popular Schiit Mani $129 has gain dip switches on the bottom.

Speakers: Bookshelf speakers on stands often have a smaller footprint than floor standing tower speakers.

• Best current deal is a closeout sale on 6.5" DCM TP160 by MTX Audio $249 $85 pair. Review by u/DieselWang and Video Review. Or maybe these towers are smaller than the ones in the shop, DCM TP260 2-Way by MTX Audio $399 $149 pair.
  
• My speakers of choice for music are Ascend CBM-170SE $298 + shipping. Neutral sound with a linear frequency response and a great midrange that many speakers lack. Manufacturer direct cuts out the middleman so compare to $500 speakers.
  
• Wavecrest Audio HVL-1, and order on sale at Ascend $80 each + shipping, "budget/baby Ascends" from the same speaker designer. To me, comparable to and better mids than KEF Q100s.
  
• Or DIY build from a kit. 5" C-Note MT $99. A good starter build with a good low end for the size. Add around $30 for supplies and then tools if you don't have them. Kit includes pre-cut cabinets. Glue, solder, paint, assemble. Comparable to built speakers costing two to three times as much.
  
  Speaker Placement for Stereo Music Listening
  
  Speaker stands: Dayton Audio SSMB24 or Monoprice Glass. Sturdy Monolith by Monoprice Speaker Stands.
  
  Speaker wire: Pure Copper Oxygen Free Speaker Wire or Basic Copper Clad Aluminum then 4 Ways to Strip Wire. Optionally add banana plugs. Already with banana plugs AmazonBasics buy 2 for a pair 12ft each.
  
  For WiFi streaming audio, add to any used or new amp or recevier without it: Dayton Audio WBA31 $42 + shipping or from Amazon $53 Prime shipping, has app based WiFi streaming, Apple Airplay, DNLA and NAS compatibility and also Bluetooth as a backup. Or a Chromecast Audio $38 shipped from the UK.
  
  If the Pioneer turntable does not work out: A new option if $400 was over your budget is the Fluance RT82 $299 with an optical sensor speed controlled servo motor (skip the older RT81 without it) or the popular Audio-Technica AT-LP120XUSB $249.
  
  Home Audio Guides: Intro to home stereo systems • Zeos Tutorials, Diagrams and Videos • r/audiophile Guide to Home Audio • Introduction to Audio Components • What is a Phono Preamp? | Audio Advice • r/HTBuyingGuides FAQ
  
  Also check out r/BudgetAudiophile.

I haven't read all of the comments, so someone my have mentioned this but; buy some cook books! There are 1000's out there but here are a few decent ones:

​

Ingredient is a great book for understanding how different things interact and change each other

​

Salt to taste is one of my personal favorites, and has a wealth of knowledge, it offers insight on improvisation and may be one to get down the line

​

The Food Lab is a great book for base knowledge, it has tons of great recipes and it attacks them from a more methodical approach

​

There are tons of other great books out there, Escoffier, French Cooking with Julia Child, The Flavor Bible etc....

Anthony Bourdain's 'Les Halles' and Paul Bertolli's 'Cooking by Hand' will have special places in my heart. My personal most recent addition was 'Bottom of the Pot'

I'd echo the 'kitchen stuff' idea. http://www.seriouseats.com/2013/12/gift-guide-basic-kitchen-essentials-home-cook-starter-kit-presents.html has a decent and thoughtful list, along with http://www.seriouseats.com/2013/12/gift-guide-essential-pots-and-pans-presents-for-home-cooks.html but if I could tell you to get a few things, I'd pare it down to:

• Enameled cast-iron pot
  
• Cast iron skillet
  
• A chef's knife (most people need an 8" knife but my hands are very small, so a 6" works for me -- the key is to buy what works for YOU)
  
  Eventually, add in a few high-quality knives (I love Wusthof and Henckels but not all of their lines are created equal) -- I lean on my paring knife and chef's knife for much of what I do, though having other knives can be nice
  
  These items are good, but equally important is to learn how to use them. Long-term, you are going to save yourself much heartache, frustration, and money if you do something terribly unglamorous: take some basic cooking classes before you start buying physical things. Learn how to use these implements properly before investing, so you become a smarter investor. What you've bought for life: knowledge. Start with knife skills (http://www.surlatable.com/product/CFA-2976678/ might work) and work up to learning other basic cooking techniques. You want to look for classes and books that don't just teach you how to make a single recipe, but to understand methods, like braising and sautéing and frying. This way, whenever you hit a rough patch in your life, you can always take care of yourself.
  
  Also: get a library card. You can then go pull books like these for free, absorb the learning, and save your money to buy only the items that YOU want to keep as a permanent reference:
  
  
• Cooks' Illustrated "Science of Good Cooking" - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1933615982/ref=pd_sbs_14_t_2
  
• The Food Lab: Better Cooking Through Science - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0393081087/ref=pd_sim_14_1

The Food Lab. It's a cook book and goes into why and how everything works. Haven't read the entire thing yet, but an absolutely fantastic way to learn different things about cooking. Also, one of the ways I learned was to look at multiple recipes to get the idea of how to do it and watch YouTube, and sort of mix things around to where you like it.
Link: The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking... https://www.amazon.com/dp/0393081087?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Edit: as far as the healthy and cheap goes, if you have a crock pot, ask your butcher for things like knuckle bones from beef, chicken backs, necks, gizzards, and other things like that. They make super healthy and usually cheap. Any questions on things like that PM me. I'm a butcher and have an pretty good idea of what's good for what

College kid here, I'll try to help out.

It's generally recommended that you don't ever go for a HTIAB (home theater in a box) as they come with super shitty components and most often don't leave room to upgrade.

You'll get more flexibility and bang for your buck with bookshelves and a sub, but as you mentioned you only want a 2.0 for right now. If bass is really that important to you, I would actually recommend you get a pair of bookshelves now and invest in a sub later on. Towers are great but for a 2.0 setup you're going to want something smaller with better sound quality.

 

---

Bookshelves: used Polk Signature S15's

>Top listing is $165 for like new speakers; S15's run for $229/pair new.

This listing in particular says "Speakers only, nothing else is included" which is odd for them to mention because I don't think these speakers normally come with any accessories. Maybe he's talking about the manual which can easily be found online. But who needs manuals anyway?

 

Amp: SMSL SA-50

>Price fluctuates between $63 and $69. This listing is $63.

Puts out 50 wpc, will power pretty much any speaker you throw at it. I owned this myself and recommend it for a first setup. Just keep in mind you will have to upgrade to a surround receiver if you ever want to move past 2.1 in the future.

---

 


This puts you at $228 shipped. A bit above your absolute max of $200, but this is probably your best bet. You're also going to need to buy some speaker wire. It's only like $8.

So in total, this comes to $236 shipped. A bit above your budget, but it leaves you with some kickass bookshelves as well as the ability to add a sub in the future.

Let me rephrase: Not only are the cloud 2's the best headphones I own for gaming, but they are far and above the best headphones i own for music as well. Im talking like 5x better than my other $200 headphones. They have plenty of bass, but its tight, clean and articulate bass instead of boomy unfocused bass. You will hear stuff listening to these that you didn't even know existed using the Sonys. They really are that good, I promise. this is coming from someone who records music, plays music, and appreciates the quality of expensive studio equipment. The reason these are so good as a "gaming" headset is that they are just rebranded Takstar pro 80s. I haven't tried lucid sound, but I hear they are just OK. Try the clouds, man. They will get your foot in the hifi door and you might use them for a looong time because another big jump in quality is going to start at $300 and up, no joke.

Edit:
It's actually Brainwavz that makes the pads. Another amazing qulaity company for how cheap they are. I use the all leather style ones, but they make velour types too. I think these alsxo enhance the sound a bit and make the sound stage seem a bit bigger. The picture doesn't do justice. They are big and oh so soft. Every time I put my headphones on its like a little treat. https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468621948&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=braiunwavz+pads

Anything will work. The community likes the Fiio e10k https://www.amazon.ca/FiiO-Olympus-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=fiio+k5&qid=1563641976&s=gateway&sr=8-5 . It’s CDN$ 20 more, but is from a reputable company and probably will work and sound better when really amplifying the signal for your left ear. I’m not sure how “close” you are to the wanted noise level, but this will probably be a strong bet in being a good solution.

I only say strong bet, and not surefire as I don’t want to promise that it will work as a solution, only that from my research it seems like a strong option. I’m not sure whether you still can’t hear anything or if you only need to tweak it like 1.5x the loudness to get it to where you want. Without you finding and going to a store that sells headphone amps it’s a partial gamble, but something like this should at least be a strong contender to fixing the issue.

Lots of people will say to look at the Instant Pot which is a combination electric pressure cooker/slow cooker/rice cooker ("multi cooker"). I had a bluetooth enabled "IP-SMART" 6qt model of theirs (actually three: first had a safety recall, second was dented on arrival, third still exhibited regulation issues). Lots of people are happy with Instant Pots, but I had a lot of issues with the pressure control being flaky for certain recipes. Additionally, much of what makes slow cookers safe when you are out of the house is their low wattage heaters... typically 250-400W... and low complexity (basically it's a small electric blanket that is wrapped around a very heavy ceramic pot). The Instant Pot has a 1000W heater, and is more complex (microcontroller + a thermocouple), so this negates some of the safety aspects of unattended slow cooking... though it is UL listed and has a thermal fuse in case anything goes wrong.

My recommendation if you are interested in pressure cookers and slow cookers:

1. Presto 8qt stovetop http://www.amazon.com/Presto-01370-8-Quart-Stainless-Pressure/dp/B0000Z6JIW $69 More volume than electric pressuer cookers (8qt > 6qt) which is important since safely pressure cooking needs lots of headroom between the food and lid valve so as not to clog. Typically headroom is 1/3rd volume for most foods, 1/2 for foamy foods like rice, etc. Thus a 8qt pressure cooker effectively has a volume of 4-5qt. When using it without building up pressure, it can double as a large 8qt stockpot. I ended up preferring stovetop over electric since I can get an initial brown on meat without having to use multiple pots, and I don't have to wait for an electric heater to come up to temperature (10+ minutes on the Instant Pot for me).
   
   
2. Hamilton Beach 6qt set'n'forget slow cooker http://www.amazon.com/Hamilton-Beach-33967A-Programmable-6-Quart/dp/B00EZI26DW $50 Check reviews on thesweethome.com for it, but it beat out a lot of more expensive crock pot models. Oval shape lends itself better for some slow cooker recipes, such as mini, chocolate lava cakes, roasts, etc.
   
   $120 for both.. around the ballpark of the cheaper Instant Pots, you gain an additional pot for stove use, pressure cooker is of bigger size, slow cooker is safe unattended and a more conventional shape, and IMO will last longer. You lose automatic rice cooking capabilities but... by a $20-$30 rice cooker and probably get better rice, or just do it on the stovetop.
   
   By the way, no idea what food you like to eat, but these are two of my favorite cookbooks if you are getting started and wanted to build up some experience:
   
   

• America's Test Kitchen 100 Recipes http://www.amazon.com/100-Recipes-Absolute-Best-Essentials/dp/1940352010/ Good for in-depth explanation of 100 recipes across a pretty big range of techniques.
  
  
• Cook's Illustrated Cookbook http://www.amazon.com/Cooks-Illustrated-Cookbook/dp/1933615893/ Shorter explanations but lots and lots of recipes.
  
  And major shout out to Kenji's (from Seriouseats.com) new book if you want more detailed science information:
  
  
• The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking through Science http://www.amazon.com/Food-Lab-Cooking-Through-Science/dp/0393081087
  
  This post ended up being much longer than I expected, but those are my recommendations if you are just starting out. ;) The main thing I've learned since beginning to cook is that 90%+ of the recipes online (and even in print) are untested crap, and to look for recipe sources you can trust. The second thing is that a finished recipe is much more dependant on the technique (the steps you use to modify ingredients at specific times, temperatures, and textures) and way less dependent on the ingredients themselves (you can easily sub ingredients for many recipes once the core techniques are understood).

It's amazing how big a difference frames can make.

I assume that the reason you moved the tower to face that away is so that you can see the glass window? Totally get that. Moved my set up all around because I wanted to enjoy looking at it. But maybe you could move it to the same position you had in the first photos but maybe further to the left of your desk? Basically switching it with the PS4's location. I think that will help hide some of those cables and give the desk a cleaner look.

Or if you really have your heart set on that tower positioning, I think some velcro straps would be a great start and compressing the cables. Or something like these could help get cables off the floor and under the desk and help run them in a tidier fashion.

You've definitely been making some improvements! Keep up the great work!

I've tried four sets on the AKG 240 Studio (55 ohm):

• Cosmos Velvet Velour. These are very light and fairly comfortable; I cleaned them regularly with a lint roller to keep the soft, but they eventually become thin velvet after a couple of years. Not bad for the price.
  
  
• wang_yifei Ultra-Soft Velours. I bought these to replace the Cosmos, and they are worth every penny. They are a smaller profile (thickness), which sounds better to me on most headphones (ear is closer to the driver). They are made specifically for the AKG 240, so the fit is fantastic. The only real difference in sound I note between the Cosmos and these is due to the change in distance between the ear and driver.
  
  
• Brainwavz Sheepskin Round Regular. Better head seal due to soft materials (sheepskin and soft memory foam), resulted in better mid-bass perception. Supremely Comfortable; especially for long audio sessions. I plan to keep using these currently.
  
  
• Brainwavz Sheepskin Round XL. The extra space in the earcup introduced reflections that made them sound more airy; not my preference. I have smaller ears, so YMMV based on the size of your ears. Super comfortable, but again, smaller ears, some ear shift.

A legitimate 3500+mAh battery will probably not be worth the extra price unless you absolutely need longer runtimes on a single cell. In most cases, the listed capacity is a total fabrication, luckily some nice folks do various tests to see the actual capacities of various cells. Here is one from 2012 and one done in 2011 is here.

I'm not familiar with the prices of all of those cells, there are a lot to choose from but I do know that the tenergy cells have decent capacity and are a pretty good value, here on amazon.

A charger that is a great value is the Nitecore i4, found for a very good price on amazon. It can only charge with a maximum of 750mA charge current which is a little lower than what is best, but it will do just fine. For maximum speed charging of 2 cells be sure to use different channels, #1 and #3 are paired as well as #2 and #4. So use combinations like #1 and #4, #1 and #2, #2 and #4, etc.

On the case of your wants for a wide soundstage, the AD900x is in fact a great choice, but has bass quality over quantity and are very focused and have extreme treble and upper mid clarity. They are in fact good for games like CS:GO, but if you want to play battlefield with them, you'll want something like X2s which stretch your budget a bit, but are compatible with the VModa BoomPro which is great for the price but doesn't work with everything.

Your PC360s are Sennheiser HD595s with an attached mic basically, and the 595s don't have the widest soundstage at the price of either the 595s or the PC360s.

You may need an amp/dac combo for your 900x, so you can get something like this, which will power it just fine, but if you're on a desktop with a good motherboard, you should be fine.

Also if you can buy the AD900x from USA amazon, they are like $176CAD which is extremely cheap.

It's not an upgrade, it's a 'sidegrade'. They're the same level of headphones, just one is open, and one is closed.

The M50X is an extremely popular headphone, perhaps the most popular in it's class, but in enthusiast circles it gets mixed opinions -- some would say there are better options at this price point from Beyerdynamic, AKG, Shure, and others. More than a few die-hard audiophiles shun them altogether. But if you look in any review from an electronics publication (moreso than an audiophile-specific publication), they will talk about them like they are handed down from the virgin Mary.

The sound signature is bass-forward and the mids are known to be somewhat lacking.

I like the M50x myself, the one thing that I would suggest is that you make sure that you're aware of -- from a comfort standpoint, the headphones greatly benefit from replacement of the pads, especially if you have larger ears. So expect to spend another $20 or so on new pads. I use Brainwavz Memory Foam. These will make the headphones much more comfortable and reduce the bass a little bit (as these are bass-boosted headphones, the bass will still be a good bit boosted). If you find the headphones still too bassy (I don't), you could get velour pads or 'hybrid' pads which would reduce the bass further.

I think it's a good choice if you are looking for a closed headphone similar in quality to the AD700, especially if you want another AT. You do need to be aware that there are inherent differences in open vs closed headphones and that closed headphones will never sound like open headphones.


FWIW, I read/watched 1000 good reviews on M50x, bought them, and then read/watched a few bad ones while they were shipping. I got buyers remorse before they even arrived and started freaking out. Especially 'Zeos' Z Reviews (whom I think is /r/headphones regular) youtube review made me ill and thinking I had made a horrible decision. But when I got them, I was really happy with them! I don't have a setup like many of the folks on here and I'm not a serious audiophile but they seem amazing to me (I also have a 12 year old pair of Shure IEMs which are the only other nice headphones that I've had), and I listen to primarily electronic music and hip-hop -- which the sound signature of the M50x fits very well.

The main advantage of the Elite is that it has a touchscreen. Personally, I find the touchscreen less useful than using actual buttons. I mean, yeah, it's a nice feature, but when I pick up a remote I want buttons. I want to be able to use it almost without even looking at it. I don't want to surf through menus unless I have to.

The Smart Remote puts everything I need at my fingertips, and for anything else (like a feature on my TV that I almost never need, such as the SAP button), I'll use the Harmony App on my phone.

I own both the Elite and the Smart Remote (I used to own the Companion). These things seem to always be on sale, and you can find great deals on ebay too. Here's a Smart Remote with a Hub for $58. The Hub alone sells for $60, so that's a good deal (they all use the same hub).

I like the Smart Remote a lot. A LOT. It controls activities, not devices. What does that mean? It means you assign buttons to whatever you need for an activity, which probably includes multiple devices, and you can assign devices to multiple activities.. My "Watch TV" activity includes my TV, my receiver, my amp. My receiver and amp are assigned to all of my activities except one. The idea is, when you choose an activity, your remote is set up for whatever you need for that activity. You set it all up in the Harmony app (the app is a bit clunky for setup, but once you get the hang of it, you'll see that it's quite powerful).

The Elite is OK, but it's kind of clunky too. It feels kind of cheap. For the price, it should be metal and glass, not plastic. The back is round, not flat, so it wobbles like crazy if you try to press a button while it's laid down. The screen is OK, but we're so used to premium screens on our phones that the Elite's screen feels low quality by comparison, and the screen is slow to respond, though it's fine as a remote screen - you don't need lightning fast speeds on a remote screen, but for the money, the Elite doesn't feel like a premium product.

Ok, this looks like a job for /r/CabaloftheBuildsmiths if I've ever seen one.

Let's start with your sound. While this guy is not accurate with his take on sound cards, he's spot on about everything else when it comes to gamer audio. As for the headphones he recommends, you can find an even better deal here, and a great set of replacement earpads here.

Do you live near a MicroCenter or a Fry's Electronics? I promise you you'll save money on that i7 if you do.

I have the same liquid cooler as you and it works awesome. However, get the H110i if you can. Why? Because firmware. My build is similar to yours, and I have a review of the h115i there.

Your Windows can be a retail copy if you buy a (much cheaper) Win10 Pro license off eBay. Just make sure your seller has ironclad legit reviews. Avoid OEM if you can afford it. Buy a 16GB flash drive, use Windows media creation tool, load it on the flash drive from the computer you have now. Then install Win10 on your new computer.

When it comes to a Z170 board, nearly all your options are perfectly fine. Don't buy mobo manufacturer marketing garbage. It's sooo much hype to rip a lot of people off.

I own the Dell S2716DG and I highly recommend buying the Viewsonic XG2703-GS, because it is the #1 rated 1440p 144hz monitor out there. /u/NCX is your no-bull source for everything monitors, and I would highly recommend reading any monitor review he puts up.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $329.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Corsair H110i 113.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $109.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI Z170A KRAIT GAMING 3X ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $122.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $88.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial MX300 525GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $122.00 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 1080 8GB STRIX Video Card | $678.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Corsair Carbide Clear 600C ATX Full Tower Case | $114.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit | $119.99 @ Amazon
Sound Card | Creative Labs Sound Blaster Zx 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card | $89.99 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Cooler Master CM Storm QuickFire TK Wired Gaming Keyboard | $80.00 @ Amazon
Mouse | Logitech G502 Wired Optical Mouse | $51.99 @ Amazon
Headphones | Superlux HD668B Headphones | $37.95 @ Amazon
Other | Antlion Audio ModMic Attachable Boom Microphone - Noise Cancelling with Mute Switch | $49.95 @ NCIX US
Other | ViewSonic XG2703-GS 27" 165Hz IPS 1440p G-Sync Gaming Monitor HDMI, DisplayPort | $699.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2807.68
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $2787.68
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-14 11:17 EST-0500 |

Just FYI, you can hook this up to your computer or smartphone using the aux input and a cable like this:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-2-Male-Adapter-Stereo/dp/B01D5H8KO2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3.5mm+to+rca&qid=1564516794&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Note, ultimate fidelity would be better with a dedicated DAC to connect computer/phone, but even using the adapter cable it will probably sound better than anything you've heard.

Just so you know you're not limited to playing vinyl records or something, which are fun but require a lot more commitment.

One more thing - this receiver is only going to sound as good as the speakers you connect. That doesn't mean expensive - there are plenty of vintage speakers in the $100-$150 range that will blow you away. Look for brands like EPI, Boston Acoustics, ADS, Dynaco, KLH, Advent, or just search "vintage speakers" on your local Facebook marketplace or Craigslist. This was a luxury item when new, and will offer a refined, sweet sound quality that is difficult to find in new equipment.

If you're space limited, I would recommend some smaller, newer NHT speakers or just using it as a headphone amp, which many people do, see head-fi.org vintage receiver thread.

If you decide to keep it, enjoy the beginning of your journey into high quality audio and more satisfying music listening. A MAC1700 is a rare and lucky find, my foray into vintage audio started similarly with finding my dad's old Sansui G-9000 in our attic.

If you like the Ego-Twist, then you're in for a treat. An Ego-Twist is pretty much near the bottom of the barrel when it comes to a satisfying experience.

Here I'm going to save you some time. This is what I would recommend as an upgrade. If you have money to spend, go straight for the Provari. It will soon become the go-to tool in your arsenal. Otherwise get yourself a good DNA-30 based box mod like a Hana Modz Clone or a Cloupor. Then get yourself a good rebuildable atomizer like the Kayfun or Taifun. The flavor and vapor production their style of atomizer produces is highly satisfying. They work via negative pressure so once you fill it you can pretty much forget it in your pocket and rest assured that its wont leak on you. Also I would recommend you get yourself a Genesis style Atomizer like the Kraken for while you're in the house, has a tank you can fill plus it has an exposed side on top where you can drip flavors on in case you want a taste of something new without cleaning out the tank. The pull on those is very loose and airy, so you can fill your lungs in as fast as you want, the faster the pull the colder the air. Different than the Kayfuns/Taifuns of the world which have a limit to how fast you can pull. Genesis style atomizers tend to be leaky so I wouldn't recommend it as "take to work" type atomizer.

You will also need some batteries, get yourself a pair of Sony VTC5 or Samsung 25R and a good charger. These allow for high discharge rates. Here is some info on that.

You will also need some Kanthal wire, 26 guage is good. And some cotton as you will need this to build the coils on the rebuildable atomizer. Youtube is your friend when it comes to how to build the coils.

First I will start this out with: I have never bought headphones worthy of the name "audiophile". But im very interested in learning about different headphones and such.

Budget - $200 flexible budget

Source - computer motherboard connections or amp if needed

Isolation - none

Will you be using these Headphones in Public? - No

Preferred Type of Headphone - Around ear

Preferred tonal balance - balanced

Past headphones - Razer Kraken 7.1, I liked the leds ha nothing else.

Preferred Music - I listen to many types of rock. From Smashing Pumpkins to bands like Five Finger death Punch.

What would you like to improve on from your set-up - More comfort, better sound, better everything.

• I will be using these headphones for hours nonstop each day so i would like them to be comfortable.
  
• I play games on steam for many hours, listen to music and I watch you tube a lot.
  
• I would like headphones that preferably have open back so I can hear myself talk in a game and also because I heard that a wide sound stage really helps in games that sound is vital (like csgo which I play a good amount).
  
• If I would need a amp to run the headphones that would be fine also.
  
  Currently what Im thinking of getting is the
  Sennheiser HD 598 SE with the FiiO E10K amp/dac and a modmic 5.0.
  
  Basically what Im asking is for the much more experienced in sound to suggest what you think I should get headphone and amp wise (if needed). Thank you all that respond.

>So far i am very dissatisfied with the iclear 30 tanks that come with it, they leak, gurgle, don't produce very much vapor, and also have an insanely tight draw. Compared to my previous $20 dollar vape pen, this is absolute hell. Could someone recommend me a good tank that supports replaceable atomizers?

yeah the iclear 30 isn't great. look in to: aspire nautilus, kanger protank 2 or 3/mini protank 2 or 3, kanger aero tank, etc

>Also i was wondering how to take good care of the battery, i hear a lot about them exploding, don't want any of that to happen. I got myself an ultrafire charger so that i don't overcharge the battery. What else should i do to keep it safe? besides switching to a better one as my current one is a cheap $7 one.

not a ton to worry about here since you're using a regulated device. your svd will not fire any shorted coils. it will not fire coils that are below or above the regulated limit, and it will not discharge your battery below like 3.2 volts. all of that means you could use inexpensive, low drain batteries to maximize your battery life. personally, when the svd and its ilk were my daily drivers i used the samsung 26f ICR cells. they're 2600 mah and like $4 a piece. super cheap, long life.

also, that trustfire charger is garbage. upgrade to something better soon. personally, i use the nitecore intellicharger, but there are a lot of decent and relatively inexpensive chargers out there. the intellicharger i2 is ~$12 on amazon or ~$13 at illumination supply (great source for batteries too, use coupon code ISPOWER for, iirc, 10% off).

>And for the last question, what is the resistance of an atomizer, and what does it mean? is higher or lower better? all that kinda stuff please.

basically lower resistance means coils get hotter faster. this is fine if you have adequate airflow and good wicking. but can be a problem if those things are lacking. personally, i liked 1.8-2.2 ohms when i ran the SVD. but that's personal preference. you should play around with different resistances and settings on your SVD to see what you like. i suggest starting at like 5w and then slowly going up until you find your sweet spot of flavor/vapor.

here's a reddit thread that might help you.

hope this helps.

The "My First RDA" Mechanical Mod Kit

Nemesis Clone Mechanical Mod - Great price, great features, an awesome place to start without breaking the bank.

Green Sony VTC4's - I would suggest at least 2, I prefer 4.


Nitecore Intellicharger i4 (Or the i2 if you only have 2 batteries) - Great premium safe charger. What's worth more? The few bucks you save on a cheapo charger, or your house which you burned down by overcharging your batteries on a cheapo charger.

IGO-W2 or IGO-W - The IGO-W is a go-to for many, however it will likely require drilling the air holes out. The W2 costs a few more bucks, and has a different pin configuration internally, but has adjustable airflow. If you go with the IGO-W, you will also need some kind of mini screwdriver. Here's a super cheap kit

A Drip Tip - You'll need one to go with your IGO, style is up to you. You can get them pretty much anywhere, I just linked to this store because if you are putting in an order there anyway, you may as well save on shipping.

That will get you setup with your mod/RDA. Now you are going to need your building materials. Here's what I suggest.

Rebuilding Materials

An Ohm Reader - Do not skip out on this. Knowing the resistance of your coils keeps you out of harms way.

28ga Kanthal - This seems to be the preferred gauge for RDA's.

Chefs torch - This isn't necessary, but is hugely helpful for making microcoils

This cheap grooming kit - What you need from this are the nail clippers, tweezers, and scissors (also the pouch it comes with is handy for keeping your rebuilding tools in)

Cotton Balls - You can get sterilized cotton from most pharmacies. I use plain old 100% cotton balls. Just make sure to read the package and check of additives. You don't want any makeup-remover or anything like that. Just pure cotton.

Drill Bit Kit - For wrapping your coils. 1/16th seems to be everybody's favorite standard, so if you're prone to losing small things this might be a better kit for you.

You should be able schedule the initial interview as soon as 12-24 hours after signing up. I think from my sign up date to hire date I completed the entire process in 4-5 days! Which was awesome because I desperately needed work at the time! You choose when to do the interview based on the available time slots. However, there are trying something new where you can do a completely self-recorded initial interview, which has some advantages I'm sure. You will have more control over exactly what you are sending them and hopefully show something professional enough to get above $18/hour and closer to $20 or $22!

I would not invest a lot into props unless you are hired by VIPKID. In every stage of this hiring process, you will have access to the power point of what class you will be pretending to teach, so you can find those props ahead of time around your house, or make a few simple drawings. So while in practice you will need a variety of versatile props, the interview is all about getting a very specific case correct. All I purchased was a large white poster board to hang behind me, some post-it note letters to create an alphabet on the sheet, and use markers to draw some colorful shapes/animals/people/etc. on it as well. I would recommend, however, buying a small handheld dry erase board! They are so versatile and it is a small investment cost to apply for this job and look way more professional. I also purchased a nice attachable microphone which I will link below. Don't get too obsessed with finding tons of awesome props, though. Many applicants often focus too much on props and not enough on their communication skills!

If you are hired, I also have a whole list of what props and setups to get then. I'm all about keeping it simple and not having my supplies take up a whole room in my house! :D

This microphone is awesome if you want to turn your good headphones into an amazing headSET!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R98JVVU?ref=emc_b_5_t

Just get an attachment like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IRVQ0F8&pd_rd_r=DEJHY7WRFT67AY404A9J&pd_rd_w=5fpY3&pd_rd_wg=jPQH8&psc=1&refRID=DEJHY7WRFT67AY404A9J

or

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004SP0WAQ&pd_rd_r=FBN4YFJYQDXP8FHBXX06&pd_rd_w=VZKVa&pd_rd_wg=y9wMc&psc=1&refRID=FBN4YFJYQDXP8FHBXX06

I bought everything in B&H so that I didn't even have to wait for shipping!

If you are looking for a cheap mech/RDA setup, hit up www.fasttech.com. They are great clones for amazing prices. Here is a great little build for under $30. You are going to need a battery and a charger. Both can be picked up on amazon for about $10 a piece.

(DO NOT SKIMP ON BATTERIES FOR A MECH MOD)

4nine Mech mod ($18)

Mutation X V2 RDA ($8)

2 Efest High Drain 18650 Batteries
($17)

Nitecore Charger
($11)

I have the exact setup ^ and it hits like a beast. The mutation X is amazing. The adjustable airflow is awesome, and the flavor/vapor density is super great. If you have any more questions, hit me up.

EDIT: Lol downvotes? I am just trying to help someone out.

well my Arizer extreme Q is pretty stinky.

I don't know about other log Vapes, but like I said they kind of exceed that price

personally I like the xmax pro V2 (it's not in the video, but it's exactly like a boundless CF with an external battery), and get a smoke buddy to exhale through. you could do that while you're living there, and then when you move out get a bong; get the WPA and use it with bong it's way better

you want a smell proof case (edit as a note the case I have is just a pencil case not smell proof; it's the perfect size if I want to go somewhere cuz it'll hold the vape and two extra batteries and a doob tube. so normally I'll pack the vape, and that's enough for like four bowls) (I like the stuff here, extra batteries if you don't have them, and an external charger eventually.

3/4" pipe screens are must have for this vape as well. makes it so the weed doesn't drop out and there's less mess

edit also note, this is a session vape. so it may take much longer compared to an on-demand vape it really depends on what your use would be. I personally like getting high over like 45 minutes instead of like 10 minutes

So you have four corners on the recessed ceiling (higher up), and four corners on the lower ceiling. I would almost prefer to put the cameras in the corners of the lower ceiling, because it would give a more straight-on view of the player/controllers. Each camera has a narrower viewing cone at extreme close proximity. The further from the main playspace they are, the more that cone has a chance to "spread out" and cover the actual playspace. In this case, you would draw your playspace with at least (2 ft) or (0.6 m) distance from each of the four walls, so people don't bash their knuckles at the borders.

However, you might not want your cameras to be further than (12 ft) or (3.6 m) apart from each other (for best tracking quality). I don't have a big enough room to run into this limit, so you may be fine with further spaced out cameras. If the lower ceiling corners are further apart than (12 ft) or (3.6 m), then you may want to put them in the recessed ceiling anyways. You can always ignore the Oculus Rift setup's warnings about camera spacing, by the way. In fact, with larger playspaces, the Oculus setup wizard will always complain. Don't worry about it.

Also, you might want to consider using this USB card. It can handle the throughput of all four cameras in USB 3.0 mode, if desired. You can downgrade any camera to USB 2.0 by simply running a USB 2.0 cable to that camera instead of 3.0. A passive USB 2.0 cable is fine for short runs, but consider an active USB 2.0 cable (like the one that comes in the box of an extra Rift camera) for longer runs. You should put your Rift headset in one of the motherboard's USB 3.0 ports (USB 2.0 might actually be fine), and then put all four cameras (you might only need three cameras) in the USB extension card.

You can search this subreddit for discussions on whether you want/need to have the cameras/headset on 3.0 or 2.0. I prefer to run everything at USB 3.0, but it may not be necessary.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are less than 10 feet (say, those corners nearest to your computer tower), use these passive USB 3.0 cables. You're also going to want a passive USB 3.0 extension for your Rift headset.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are more than 10 feet away, you should use an active USB 3.0 cable. This is necessary for cameras that are further away from your tower. Note that the cable I linked has an optional barrel port for a 12V power supply. You only need to power these cables if you're daisy-chaining two or more of them in a row (for runs longer than (33 ft) or (10 m)).

These CAT6 round cable clips should work well for cable routing, especially for the slightly thicker active USB 3.0 cables. These general-purpose adhesive cable clips work fine for runs of the thinner, passive USB cables, but you may have issues with the adhesive depending on your wall.

You'll want this HDMI extension cable for your Rift headset, to make use of the extra space. I've had a good experience with bunching the HDMI and USB Rift headset extensions together by using these lightweight Velcro ties. I have about a (10 ft) or (3 m) square playspace, so you may encounter different problems than me if your playspace is larger. I only have three cameras, and it works fine. Good luck in your setup, I'm sure whatever you do will work great!

I love cookbooks, and have probably fifty in my collection.

The ones I keep going back to are:

• Anything by Yotam Ottolenghi - He's an Israeli-born chef in London, and his recipes are a great combination of creative, relatively easy, and unique. He has a knack for combining unusual flavors, and I've never disliked anything I've cooked from him. If you're relatively green, don't get Nopi (too advanced). His other three or four books are all great.
  
  
• Mexican Everyday by Rick Bayless. Bayless has a PBS show and owns several restaurants in Chicago. He's a great chef and his recipes are accessible and fun.
  
  
• The Food Lab by u/J_Kenji_Lopez-Alt. I was skeptical at first, since Lopez-Alt's website is so comprehensive, but the book is absolutely beautiful and contains both recipes and explanations of technique and science.
  
  
• Modernist Cooking at Home - It's expensive and many of the recipes are challenging and/or require special equipment, but the book is truly groundbreaking and never fails to stoke my creativity. It's the home version of his 6-volume tome which many think is one of the most innovative cookbooks in the last 20 years.

Questions regarding JVC HA-SZ2000s:

I consider myself a basshead and own a pair of ATH-M50x's and they're fantastic headphones, but really uncomfortable for me with glasses even with some 40mm angled pleather pads. I can't wear them for maybe more than 4 hours, and my job calls for it being a video producer. I want to try and avoid this issue with the SZ2000.

I was looking at the Brainwavz HM5 pads see here since I hear the stock pads are dreadful on the cans. Would it be better getting angled or flat pads? I'm hoping these "memory foam" ones are a lot better for comfort.

Secondly, I have a FiiO E10k strapped to my desk for my M50x's, with me being a basshead I want to maximise its efficiency (who doesn't?) so would I be OK with the E10k or do people recommend others? I'd like to listen to them on the go, at work and at home so a portable amp would be fantastic.

Thirdly, is there anything else I need or would that be it? Again, looking to really get the most out of this headset so any suggestions would be grand! Cheers gang.

Yes, optical is S/PDIF. S/PDIF can actually use a coaxial connection as well, doesn't always have to be the toslink cable.

You're right, the kit you linked doesn't have optical in, so you'd need a DAC. Thankfully they're not very expensive. You can find them for even less than that but I'm a fan of FiiO, they make good stuff in the entry level.

That said, hopefully you can find that soundbar kit cheaper than that. When you consider $150 + $25 for DAC you're at $175. At that price you could make yourself a pretty good sounding 2.1 system like this:

• Dayton B652 speakers - $30/pair
  
• Lepai Tripath 20W per channel mini-Amp - $25
  
• Dayton 8" Powered Subwoofer - $80
  
• FiiO D3 DAC with toslink cable - $30
  
  Total = $165
  
  This would sound much better than any soundbar and is infinitely more expandable and configurable. Someone here may have a better standalone amp suggestion, but that one should be sufficient. You should still be able control volume through the TV, just make sure the digital out volume control is set to variable, not fixed.
  
  

Get a basic 5.0 system, then add a sub. This should be good value for music and movies. I'm partial to Denon/Marantz for their musical audio quality, but some other folks on this sub may know a cheaper receiver that still sounds good. The speakers are definitely the best bang for your buck, but you could get higher quality speakers for music if you did a 2.1 instead of surround sound. Based on the 4K TV, I'm assuming you're going to be watching movies/tv more than you listen to music.

• AV Receiver ($280): https://www.amazon.com/Denon-Audio-Component-Receiver-AVRS530BT/dp/B06XYD1RZ3/
  
  
• L, R, Surround L, Surround R (2 x $90): https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B00E7H8GG2/
  
  
• Center Channel ($80): https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42X-C-Channel-Speaker-Tweeter/dp/B00HHFBEK6/
  
  
• Speaker Wire ($11): https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-16-Gauge-Speaker-Wire-Feet/dp/B006LW0W5Y/
  
  Boom! Slightly overbudget but you get a good 5.0 surround sound, 4K/HDR compatible receiver, and you can throw in a BIC F12 subwoofer for $200 or a Polk PSW10 for $100 when you save the cash

Well, you're really close to the towers for the main stations, i.e., ABC, CBS, NBC, Fox, PBS, CW, and they're all basically in the same direction in Austin. So you should do fine with this antenna which is a directional one. It's highly rated: https://www.walmart.com/ip/RCA-Suburban-Mini-Yagi-Digital-Outdoor-Antenna-with-Mast/10828410 See also https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-Outdoor-Antenna-Range/dp/B0024R4B5C for further confirmation of the excellent user reviews.

I went ahead and paid an extra $10 to buy it in-store at Walmart (versus ordering through Amazon) to have the convenience of easily being able to return it if it didn't work out (happily, it works great). And I added this to it at the TV end: https://www.walmart.com/ip/ONN-Digital-Signal-Amplifier-for-Indoor-Antennas/139204884 (Note: I know it says it's intended for "indoor" antennas; but as far as I know the TV signal from the antenna is simply a signal--and this simply boosts it. But then again I'm about 27 miles from the big four network towers in Manhattan. In your case it could boost some channels farther away that without it are on the margin, and get them to come in consistently clearly. In-store it was only $13.)

But there are other antennas out there that regularly get recommended here, and others will come along and recommend them I'm sure. Just sharing what worked for me. At only six and a half miles from the towers this antenna should more than get the job done.

I guess you could get a more powerful omni-directional antenna if you're determined to get as many stations as possible. For OTA TV I just watch the stations for the main networks that give me the best reception. I could care less about the independent UHF stations which usually broadcast in painfully low resolutions (even if they do come in strong and clear), with content that doesn't interest me. I just want OTA channels for local sports. For most of our TV watching we're watching Sling TV or Amazon Prime, anyway.

Do you have a satellite dish on the side of the house of the roof that is no longer being used? If so, there are YT videos that walk you through (easily) removing the dish and hooking up an OTA antenna in its place on the dish mounting frame.

Hola! I set all this up last year so it’s a bit rusty!

This is a shopping list for an Xbox One mixer setup similar to mine and you may need some help filling in a few gaps and the wiring!

So the idea is to build a setup to be able to use an awesome mic to talk to the stream as well as party chat ‘at the same time’ (which I prefer over using a headset) but to also be able to hear game/chat/PC audio though a single pair of headphones and control their volume levels in one place with ease.

I don't need sound going out to my PC as the Cap card is getting that from the Console via HDMI.
Streaming Xbox to PC then the WORLD!

Xbox – hdmi into a cap card in the PC Avermedia live gamer hd
http://www.amazon.co.uk/AverMedia-61C9850000AE-Avermedia-Live-Gamer/dp/B007SRYAPO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1447858313&sr=8-2&keywords=live+gamer+hd
This grabs the game audio and that’s that bit done, stream using OBS and boom!

Here's is my shopping list for party chat:

Mixer

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-802-Premium-8-Input-Preamps/dp/B000J5XS3C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150891&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+mixer
Headset Buddy (Real name, I didn’t make that up!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headset-Buddy-Adapter-PC35-PH25-Computer/dp/B002D41HKS/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1421341934&sr=1-3&keywords=headset+buddy

Xbox Chat Thing:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Xbox-One-Stereo-Headset-Adapter/dp/B00IAVDOS6

Cable from Buddy to Mixer:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415150937&sr=8-1&keywords=hosa+cables

Cable from Mixer to Buddy!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/HosaTech-CMS-105-3-5mm-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B000068O35/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857349&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+TRS+to+1%2F4+inch

Xbox Mixer(s)

Astro Mixamp (I use)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/ASTRO-Gaming-3AM99-HBU9X-975-ASTROGAMING-MIXAMP/dp/B004L6C6BK/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1447856882&sr=1-4&keywords=astro+mixamp

Earforce DSS (an option!)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Force-Channel-Dolby-Surround-Processor-Mac/dp/B003O0KICS/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1421378828&sr=1-1&keywords=dss1

Ground Loop things:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Headphone-Ground-Isolator-Filter-Stereo/dp/B00INV5LB6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41-9H3Hc3mL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1TTNMJANJDTK26VVSAE7

Although I have used these ones because I didn’t see the ones above!

http://www.amazon.co.uk/AV-Link-201-086-Skytronic-Isolator/dp/B000NVWB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1447857227&sr=8-1&keywords=Ground+Loop+Isolator

Mic wise any XLR mic is fine!

Here is a link to a image i found that kinda helps piece it all together! http://imgur.com/UYaQQUZ

Here is a quick vid of my setup, happy to help if i can! http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/26306849

Heres is my latest Xbox One vid with party chat but it picks up the Public Lobby if they speak!
http://www.twitch.tv/drunkiemunkie/v/31799799

dM

I live in a studio apartment in NYC so right now I just use my ThinkPad and connect it to my TV via a DisplayPort to HDMI cable. I tend to delete stuff right after I watch it, so I don't really have a need for that much space. I also share a Netflix account with my sister and I have Amazon Prime, so I will go to those services first before downloading something. I also have an Xbox that sometimes carries the load and I will typically stream those services through it. Then I have a Mohu Leaf antenna to watch live sports on the networks (the uncompressed quality on that can be amazing). Most of the shows me and my girlfriend watch we get through downloading via the pirate bay or other sources after it airs. We both tend to work late so this works out fairly well and we don't have to wait like 8 days or something silly, they're right up in HD a few minutes after airing.

Right now it is mostly a manual process. Our building has free FiOs WiFi so everything just gets connected to that (and as a result that's why things like chromecast, apple TV, or streaming from the PC to the Xbox won't work). I am a big football and hockey fan who live out of market from my home teams, so those are really the only two services I consider purchasing directly from their sources. (But to be honest, this past season I just used VLC to stream the Gamecenter NHL games and the Netherlands VPN trick combined with the Madden 25 deal to watch NFL).

If this was to be more of a "permanent" setting though, I would definitely look to upgrade to a stand-alone PC that would solely function as an HTPC. Also, as I said, my process right now is pretty manual. I would love to have it be more of an automated process, and having a dedicated machine with a larger hard drive would help. But right now this fits my needs fairly well and has a minimal impact on my wallet. If you'd like to know more or want to build your own, check out:

• /r/htpc
  
• /r/cordcutters
  
• /r/hometheater
  
• /r/buildapc
  
• /r/Plex
  
• /r/xbmc
  
• /r/seedboxes
  
• /r/torrents
  
• /r/BaconBits
  
• /r/thepiratebay
  
• /r/VPN
  
  For specific streaming info for the NHL and NFL:
  
  
• /r/hockey/wiki/vlc
  
• /r/FMstreams
  
• /r/cordcutters/comments/2cstpa/nfl_20142015_guide

If you're into Middle Eastern food, Zahav is incredible. I'm biased because I'm in Philly but the restaurant has won James Beard awards for Outstanding Chef and Outstanding Restaurant, and the book has recipes for everything they serve and a lot more.

For a more general book, The Food Lab by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is pretty great. Most of the recipes are on the Serious Eats website but it's nice to have the physical book.

I will probably get flak for doing this but here you go:

Sony SSB1000 ($55) These speakers are pretty good for how cheap they are. Much better than the Micca Covos.

SMSL-SA-50 ($68) I have this amp and it is awesome how much it puts out. I see the people all the time recommend the Lepai LP-2020 for cheap setups but ignore that amp. Get this one.

There you have it. Cheap setup that is entirely expandable. Get some Banana plugs and some cheap speaker wire.

Later on if you save your pennies you can buy something like the dayton sub for about 100 bucks and will fit nicely with that setup.

If you're science/detail minded, The Food Lab is a great cookbook. You'd learn not just the basics, but also how small changes in ingredients, timing and technique have significant impacts on the end result. Lots of recipes and cookbooks just give you a series of steps to follow, and more often than not you'll be alright with just that. But having a book that details how different ingredients work by themselves and with each other is a huge help in getting started.

It's also important to note that cooking is combination of art & science (in contrast with baking, which can be very specific in its process...don't get too experimental with baking until you have more experience). A recipe may ask to cook for 20 minutes, but based on the heat you're applying it was already done in 18 minutes. Do you leave it in there longer just because the recipe said so? It's not always about following a specific set of steps, you have to be able to look at the process and identify the necessary changes to achieve the result you want. And that knowledge only comes through practice and experience.

So yeah, there may be some mishaps. I like to say, "eat your mistakes". Rarely is something so badly cooked that it's completely inedible. Every mistake is a lesson on what to improve upon, and there's always room to improve.

It sounds daunting at first, but it's like learning a new language or riding a bike. Eventually, the general knowledge from all the different recipes you cook compounds and you'll "just know" how the process is going without even looking at it. Have fun with it, it's a really useful skill.

If you love to read, then I completely back up those who recommended J Kenji Lopez-Alt's "The Food Lab". He also spends some time on /r/seriouseats, which I think is really great. Food Lab is great because it explains not only HOW to make a recipe, but the WHY a recipe works the way that it does, and allows you to expand your cooking skills. His is not the only book that does this, but I've read Salt Fat Acid Heat and The Science of Cooking and a good portion of the tome that is Modernist Cuisine, but Kenji's style of writing is exceptionally approachable.

But my actual suggestion to someone who wants to go from never cooking to cooking healthy meals at home is to watch the recipes on Food Wishes, because he shows you what each step of the recipe is supposed to look like, and his food blog is not filled with flowery stories, but helpful tips.

Another great online resource that I used when I started cooking about 5 years ago was The Kitchn. They offer up basic technique videos on how to cook proteins and vegetables that are really simple to follow for beginners.

My advice to you is this: don't feel like you need to dive immediately into recipes. First learn how to season and cook a chicken breast or steak consistently, and roast the different kinds of vegetables. Then just start jumping into recipes that you want to try. And don't be afraid to ask questions here :)

My current setup is A50s and a Modmic plugged into a Y-adapter that plugs into the adapter and so far it works amazing. Let me try to get you links:

-Modmic (incredible quality; built to last and made by a guy who's just starting up):
http://www.modmic.com/

-Y-Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SP0WAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1394242076&sr=8-1

-Sennheiser (better for gaming, however the sound leaks so others can hear your music at a low volume (cant be used in public places)) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004FEEY9A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1394242127&sr=8-1

-A50s (what I have; perfect for music and great for gaming; very private and doesnt leak sound very much):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ULAP4U/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1394242250&sr=8-2

The modmic is magnetic and will stick
To your headset while having the ability to be taken off with ease to leave the headphones bare. The a50s are awesome for music and pretty good for gaming, but if you do gaming at about a 80-20 ratio to music listening than I would go with Sennheiser 558s or 598s. The y-adapter just allows you to combine both the headphones and the mic into one 3.5 mm AUX jack.

Total cost was about $165 (not including xbone adapter). Fairly good price for better headphones (structurally and sound-quality), ability to use everywhere and not look dumb with an attached mic, listen to music that sounds phenomenal, and speak in crystal clear quality to my buddies (who have already noticed how well it sounded in comparison to the xbone chat headsets).

TLDR: Get audiophile headphones, a modmic, and y adapter for a better and cheaper headset that can be used as normal headphones and as a headset (removable mic).

I highly recommend against "gaming" headsets. They are usually overpriced for the components they use. I went with the route of using a set of semi-open back headphones and clip on mic for a bit. I've since upgraded to a NEWER condenser microphone. Either way:

Cheap but very good quality heaphones

super cheap but decent mic

Also I recommend these earpads. They lessen the low end a bit and make the headphones x100 more comfortable.


edit: just realized that's the "recommended combo" on amazon lmao. Either way its ~52 USD and a great deal. Compare the quality of this setup and its right up there with 100 dollar "gaming" headphones. Also semi-open and open headphones are great for FPS games because of the open soundscape.

Sure!

So I'll assume you guys have the absolute bare bones in equipment and work from there. Since these are voice recordings from the 60s\70s there won't be much fidelity to capture so you should be pretty safe.

I've only done this with a Windows machine but I think there are similar settings on Mac. If not this will at least give you an idea of what to Google.

You'll need to get the audio from the tape deck to the computer. Technically you should use a line input. If you have a desktop computer it might be the blue connector. If you have a laptop you can use one of these things or something similar. If you're a cheapskate like my Dad you can just use the microphone input (if you have a headphone/microphone combo jack you'll need this doo-dad).

Note that the Mic input is "hot" in the sense that it's very sensitive to the noise coming into it and a line level input from a tape deck with clip out all the audio. You'll need to dial the mic sensitivity down. In Windows 10 right click the audio icon>Sounds>Recording>Select your default mic input>Properties>Listen>✔Listen to this device (to monitor)>Levels>Adjust levels. How to adjust levels should be apparent soon.

If you're using a Walkman type player you can connect with a simple auxillary cable (double sided male headphone jack). If you have a big tape deck just hook it into the Mic or Line jack with one of these. Toss a tape in there and let it play. Check to see if you can hear it with the "Listen to this device" checked. Adjust the levels to where it sounds normalish. You'll fine tune it next.

Install Audacity. In the top bar you'll see a mic input drop down, select your line in or mic input. Click the audio meter for the mic next to check your input levels. Advice on this varies but in general keep the green bar bouncing on the low end between the -12 and -6 during normal audio levels on the tape. This gives some wiggle room when people on the tape get antsy. You can adjust that with the OS input levels and fine tune it with the Audacity mic levels.

Restart your tape, hit record, and play it through.

When exporting I like to use FLAC for lossless audio but if you're looking for something more practical just use a high quality setting for MP3. FLAC is built in but you'll have to install the MP3 exporter (which I just linked wiki instructions for). You can also use WAV but its a lot bigger and doesn't support tags. When you export you'll have options to tag the artist data. I like to input as much data as I have about the tape in these fields. It will display in any compatible media player and it keeps things generally more organized.

If you don't want to bother with any of that you could try visiting local music shops and recording studios and I'm sure there's someone there that you could pay to have it done. I've never tried that though.

Hope that sets you down the right path. Preserving old audio like that of our parents is important. I have a box of old "love tapes" my Dad mailed to my Mom when they were dating. I should digitize them... but it's really weird to hear. Maybe I'll send them out.

Get the mech you like the look of. You'll hear things like this one is better than that one because it has better plated contacts but unless you have a bunch of different mechs to compare it to than it really isn't going to make that much of a difference.

illuminationsupply has good batteries. I would recommend the sonys vtc5s

fasttech has very inexpensive mech clones

amazon has the best most inexpensive charger for only 15 dollars and free shipping with prime.

lightiningvape has some of the best prices on rebuildable supplies.

And that's pretty much all you need.

yes, get the brainwavz replacement pads and they should fit just fine. As I mentioned, they are a little tight but they fit just fine. I and many others have used them in the Steelseries H Wireless.

To clarify the different versions you could get for this brand:

velor: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MFDX4YO

pleather: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MFDT894

Pick one and either should fit fine. If you really don't believe me, here's a review someone did on the velor version with pics of it on the H Wireless:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/review/R332AUET8BCO2I

As for differences between velor and pleather. Pleather may get warm around your ears although it's not a big deal. It seals noise better and is basically maintenance free. The velor version is a lot cooler (temperature wise) around your ears due to the material and feels way more comfortable overall but doesn't seal noise as well and attracts lint/dust, etc so may require washing or using a lint roller once in a while. Maintenance isn't hard, but it is there.

Hey guys,


The DAC and amp guide here seems a bit old and I'm a bit of a newbie so I figured I'd ask here.


Here is my current equipment at my work desk:

• Dell E1505 laptop - crappy, giant, old school enterprise laptop. Only audio output is 1/8th headphone jack and the sound card is awful
  
• M-Audio Studiophile AV-40 Active Studio speakers with built in amp
  
  
  These are currently connected using a simple 1/8th to 1/8th audio cable, but the end result sounds awful and looks ugly as well since the 1/8th cable has to be plugged in to the front.
  
  
  I would like to hook up the laptop to send audio to the speakers, I don't usually use headphones. The speakers use RCA and 1/8th as input, but I'd like to use RCA because those inputs are behind the speaker and won't clutter my desk. In an effort to accomplish this AND improve the sound quality a bit, should I get a DAC? And should I consider switching speakers or do you guys think these are ok?
  
  
  
• Audio source: laptop.
  
• Audio type: music, mostly metal, some IDM, some hip-hop.
  
• Willing to buy used: yes.
  
• Budget: ideally <$150, the lower the better.
  
  
  
  Ideally, I'm looking for the DAC to run off of AC/USB power since I intend to leave it plugged in 95% of the time. A rotary volume dial would be ideal but isn't strictly necessary. Do I need something like these? And if yes, which one would you recommend?
  
  
  
• Syba USB DAC
  
• Nuforce Icon UDAC-3
  
• Modi USB
  
• Fiio E10
  
• Audioengine D1
  
• DAC destroyer
  
  
  
  
  PS - Could something like this Fiio D3 work maybe? Not sure what kind of adapter would be needed, but it seems unlikely.
  

I advocate using component bookshelves speakers with a mini amp unless space is at a big premium. They are better engineered, have better bang for your buck, and have a much cleaner sound.

You have the added bonus that the speakers are more flexible for other uses and, if you wanted to go from 2.0 to something else, it's a pretty easy upgrade, ala: you don't have to pitch the old system and get something new. I think you'd find a good 2.0 system to be much more impressive than a lot of the gamer sound systems out there.

Polk Audio T15 Bookshelf Speakers

Dayton Audio DTA-1 Digital Amplifier

Amazon Basics Speaker Cable

Another note: A system like this will sound way fuller without a boominess that you'd get from most gaming 2.1 sound systems. All of my friends that I have recommended go this route have loved it!

Surround sound headsets are a joke, so don't worry about not using one. Doubtful you'll even notice a difference at all and any difference you perceive right now is likely placebo.

The AKG K7XX headphones are very good, but expensive. You'll need an amp to take advantage of their quality, and to that end you'll likely need a decent DAC as well. You could start out with somethin like the Fiio E10K
which is highly regarded for its price. It's very good for a device that costs less than $100.

On the flip side, there are the Sennheiser HD 598 headphones which aren't nearly as good, but also cost much less and don't require an amp to sound good. They don't benefit all that much from an amp anyway (although any headphones might benefit from a decent DAC.) They're pretty good for gaming, and very comfortable.

>What are you feeding into the JBL's? Computer, phone, etc.

I'm using this cable to connect them to my PC's stereo output jack: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6

>How are the speakers placed? On a shelf, on stands, etc.

At the front edges of my computer desk about 4-5 feet apart and hanging over the front edge an inch or two. The speakers are about level with my ears when sitting on my sofa listening to music, and are pointed slightly inward as per the card that came with the speakers.

>That said, speakers loved by "audiophiles" (especially in this price range and form factor) don't necessarily "wow" - they aim for accuracy and to get out of the way of the music more than anything else.

To clarify what I meant by "wow" - basically I was expecting to be blown out of the water as to the amazing quality of the sound coming out of the speakers. Not necessarily "wow that's some amazing bass", etc. (Even though the LSR305's bass is very impressive to my ears.) It's not that the speakers don't sound good, it's just I was expecting to hear the best quality sound I've ever heard in my life by far, and perfection, or close to it.

It's hard for me to put into words how I feel about the sound that the LSR305's produce and what I'm not sure whether I like about it or not. I hear the term "warmth" being thrown around a lot in general, and I'm wondering if that's what describes what I might feel the LSR305's possibly lack. Almost slightly digital and cold? I don't know. I also noticed that it's harder to hear vocals on some songs vs. when listening on headphones or my OEM car speakers, like they're turned down in the mix a bit. I noticed the bass level drops off with minor listening distance changes too but that's probably got nothing to do with these speakers and more to do with me never having speakers that produced decent bass before, meaning less level change to notice...

>In contrast, the Pioneer BS22s (while still very accurate for their price) are designed for slightly more of a recreational listening experience - a slight hump in the bass, with rolled off treble. A lot of people find that more enjoyable. There's a tradeoff, of course. It's like wearing tinted glasses. Things might look "better" but they'll definitely be less accurate.

Thanks. Maybe I would enjoy them better then. Before I do anything with the LSR305's (I've still got a month to return them), maybe I'll buy some BS22's and a cheap used receiver (hopefully most older receivers produce decent audio quality) and do a comparison, I guess that's the only way to really find out.

I actually just got the modmic 5 yesterday so I'm buying the y splitter today when stores open, I've been using the headphones on their own and then using the Xbox app on my phone on an alt account to talk to my friends if I want to hear in-game audio. All you need is a male to 2 female y splitter and you're good to go, the Antlion console adapter works as well but it's like $20 compared to $5 for a cable so it's up to you whether you want to spend more money on the convenience of an adapter over a small cable.

I don't have Dolby Atmos, never got a code for it unfortunately but with Window Sonic vs Stereo, I use Stereo after testing it out a bunch, at least for competitive games. Less distracting game noises on stereo for games like Siege and I'm able to pinpoint their footsteps a lot easier, but I'll end up trying Sonic again eventually just to see if I made the right decision. Most people use Stereo especially for competitive games. I've used Sonic for some single player games and enjoyed it, just all about testing to see what you prefer but to me Stereo is better for tracking footsteps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SP0WAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ebrtDbBH7CM2M

This is the cable I'm getting first thing in the morning, I can list other options too if you'd like. There's a Sennheiser cable for a few more dollars that people enjoy as well if that interests you.

You might consider buying his book. Full color, >1000 pages, and full of his amazing writing. The photos are also very helpful and interesting.

I only started cooking when I started law school summer '15, and now hosting dinner parties is my favorite way to de-stress. It's such a great hobby. And you have a great excuse to practice mixology, too...

Anyway, Kenji is probably my favorite human being. Follow him on all the social media things. You'll be glad you did. He tweeted me back when I asked him questions on Thanksgiving. I love him.

I like the hub (companion and elite both work with the hub) but I'd go with the basic remote if I were you to save some money. This one is great and it includes a hub. The only thing the companion adds is some smart light buttons, so it would be fine too if you want those extra buttons. I have the basic Harmony remote I linked and the much fancier Harmony Elite, but I end up using the little remote more often. The elite is overkill unless you have more than 6 devices running to your TV/AVR and the touch screen ends up being a bother sometimes.

Edit: I saw you talking about using a tablet below and wanted to mention that the Hub will work with multiple devices so you can use the tablet or the remote as you see fit. I think the basic remote is definitely worthwhile as I like the physical buttons and easy operation, but you can still use your smartphone or tablet to control your devices too. The hub is $70 by itself so you might as well pay $77 for hub and a remote.

> Should I add a sound card to improve upon the crappy audio?

first of all, audio is subjective so what I say here might not entirely apply to you.

Internal sound cards don't really improve over onboard and there are a few reasons for it.

• Soundcards get rarely updated or new ones get launches so most option are outdated.
  
  
• They still have to deal with interference with the desktop components.
  
  
• Are marketed towards headsets
  
  Most headsets are marketed for gamers, which don't really need the audio quality. They want rather the surround sound en precision over quality of the audio itself. Meaning the DAC (Digital to audio converter) is usually a hold back. Especially as it can get interference from other components. Amplifiers on onboard solutions are hold back as well as they need power (preferably direct form the source) to amplify the input, which it receives from the DAC.
  
  Without going into it too much I advise you checking out external audio interfaces. While onboard audio might be enough for you, you'll notice a big difference when going on external DACs and amplifiers! I highly recommend these:
  
  
• The Fiio E10K. It's a cheap ($75) DAC and Amp together, but produces some amazing sound! It does rely on onboard audio and might hold back the amplifier. Amazingly well suppressed distortion and crosstalk.
  
  
• The Shiit Modi DAC and the Shiit Magni Amp are probably the best value options on the market right now. A total price of $200 is very reasonable.
  
  
• The Objective2 DAC + Amp. This is a great $300 DAC and amp combo. This one stand really out for the bit of customization you can do before ordering. You can say whether you want you 3.5mm audio jack in the front or back for example. It has better distortion and crosstalk suppression as the Shiit combo, but outputs at slightly lower volumes.
  
  > How is the overclocking on this board compared to the others?
  
  The X99S SLI Plus does very well on performance part. Outperforming most Gigabyte, ASRock and asus boards! Although the difference is minor.

Hi!

Not too long ago I purchased the ATH-MSR7 Headphones, which definitely was a big step up from my previous Steelseries gaming headset. I noticed, however, that there seems to be some interference, which is especially the case when the Air Conditioner is turned on. It's some kind of high pitch noise with some occasional cracking. I have the headphones plugged into a AT2020USB+ microphone. Directly plugged into the computer is worse.

Would a AMP+DAC help against this kind of interference? And while the ATH-MSR7 is pretty easy to run, would they benefit from an AMP+DAC?

I'm not super knowledgeable about audio yet, so I could use some advice. I'm currently living in Japan, and found 2 that might be interesting:

• Fiio E10K USB DAC and AMP (Amazon.jp / Amazon.com) for 8,980 yen (~80 US dollars)
  
• Amulech AL-9628D USB DAC and AMP (Amazon.jp / Amazon.com) for 14,500 yen (~130 US Dollars)
  
  The Fiio E10K is of course pretty popular already. The Amulech AL-9628D doesn't seem to be well-known outside of Japan (it's a Japan based company), but it seems to be a bit more powerful, and is getting really good reviews inside of Japan. You can either run it through USB or the provided 100-240V AC Adapter. But honestly, DSD.. ASIO 2.1.. I don't know much about it all.
  
  Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I'm thinking, that to get a sense of what i'd want, i'd have to get the train up to Trafford center or something and hope they have a good selection of headphones to try out(It should since it's a huge shopping center). I doubt they'd have high end headphones on display for use, but i assume headphones by the same manufacturer would have similar qualities, and thus i could try a cheaper headphones by various companies and that'll give me an idea of what their higher end ones sound like.

Yeah, i just listened to the song on my speakers and it is much less annoying than i found it was through my headphones aha.

I'd happily spend money on a portable amp, is there any you'd recommend? Or does that not matter as much as the headphone itself? I found this amp which seems like a good choice according to most reviews.

I'm a pretty patient person tbh, but would you say it's worth waiting for them to become available again?

Nah, i think i understand it more now than i did before to be honest aha.

If you're looking into external solutions, you might want to grab a DAC and headphone amp. It'll be a fair price jump from $9.99, but the extra power from the amp will really help your DT-770's; you can probably get away without an amp with an 80 ohm set, but they are in the impedance range where an amp will really help them shine.

A small all-in-one DAC/Amp like the Schiit Fulla 2 ($99) or Fiio E10K ($75) would give you a nice boost and a good DAC and will work well in both desktop and portable (laptop) setups.

I use a Schiit Fulla 2 at work with a pair of Sennheiser HD598Cs (70 ohm impedance) and it sounds great!

If you get him bookshelf speakers like the Q Acoustics suggestion, you'll probably need something to put them on, i.e. speaker stands, unless you've got an unusual amount of room on the stand next to that enormous TV. These can range from pretty affordable to unjustifiably expensive. Just find something that seems stable that you like the looks of. Speaker stands are something you can save a ton of money buying second hand without really having to worry about them being broken or abused, but you might not like gifting something used.

Oh, and if your house is entirely new to this speakers-and-amps thing, make sure you've got some speaker wire. Don't let anyone tell you you need to spend a lot on it. Stuff like this is just fine.

One other question you had was about wall mounting and sound quality--generally speaking nice bookshelves on stands will sound better than something you'd wall mount. In part because you'll have more control over how you place them in the room, and they'll be at ear-level like they should be. And in the case of the Q Acoustics (and many other speakers), there's a port on the back of the speaker that you definitely don't want pressed up against a wall. Basically they need a little room to "breathe".

Now, if he wanted actual IN-wall speakers (where you only see the grill), that's kind a specific and very different thing than what we tend to do around here.

What a great gift idea!

I have a dual PC stream setup and I currently use a mixer to receive both audio sources into my headphones.

There are probably cheaper options than what I have, but it is fairly cheap in comparison to what some get and I think it does a fantastic job.

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Xenyx-Q502USB-Audio-Mixer/dp/B008O516JW Runs $60 dollars on Amazon, but I picked one up at my local guitar center for 40 a little while back.

With this, you will also need to get different cable to match the input for the mixer. I currently have two of these and they work perfect. Only $4 dollars as well so not too much more onto your investment.

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_sim_267_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41xj746I2QL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=12PC9MK9VJ0BBG6XEFQ9


The other option you can do is plug a 3.5 to 3.5 aux cable from your computer linein to your TV headphone jack if there is one present. This will allow the sound to play using your computer sound card and can be activated for listening in the audio control section. A fair warning though, the computer can create a hum noise that will transmit to your stream. If you don't hear the hum, you should be good to go, but I figured I should warn you. I also don't know how to fix the hum but there is probably something online to resolve the issue if needed.

Anyways! I hope this helped!

Hello. I hope this is the appropriate place to post - a bit of an audio noob, so i'm hoping someone(s) will be kind enough to point me in the right direction.

I recently got a pair of JBL LSR305s, however, when plugged into my PC (i use this cable) i hear pretty noticable static and popping (mostly at rest, a little faint when playing something at lower volumes.) I have this motherboard which apparently has a built-in amp on it's onboard DAC, which made me wonder if that's what was causing the noise. More than likely however, I think it is signal noise, because i tried my 305s with the same cable at a friends house, both with his PC which had a built-in amp, as well as into his USB DAC/Amp combo. Both times the noise went virtually away on the LSR05s.


Because of this, i'm guessing i need a DAC or audio interface. Could you all be so kind as to direct me on a few points:

1. Will i actually need a DAC or interface?
   
2. I was looking at the Modi 2 Uber as well as a Scarlette, maybe like the 2i4? Would one of these be better than another? I kinda gathered that maybe the Scarlett wasn't actually a DAC, but an interface, although either might eliminate noise? I also have a Sennheiser HD598 and a MIDI keyboard (though i can plug that straight in USB) if that makes a difference on which one would be more ideal. Just trying to figure out which would be best for my needs, seeing as the LSR305s are already amplified.
   
3. If i do get a DAC/Interface, which cable would be best for the LSR305s?
   
   
   Thank you so much to anyone who can point me in the right direction.

If you want the desks to be facing each other, this is how I would recommend setting the desks up:

http://imgur.com/a/PUdKO

Once you do that, you have some degree of play on how close the desks are and how much room you have between your backs' and the walls of the room. That's going to boil down to preference and feel, but depending on how much space you have between the desks and how much you need to access your cables, you could do some pretty creative things to disguise the cable clutter.

A cheap sheet of material and some basic tools, like Plywood and drills/saws or foam core and a sharp utility knife can partition off the cables so you aren't always looking at them when you're looking past the desk. There's also all sorts of wire management options like bluelounge's "nicer" options or just simple velcro wraps. If you want to add some light and customization to the room, LED strips are super popular with regards to the gaming aesthetic and they're fairly inexpensive and usually have easy instalation. (Adhesive, normally.)

As far as decor is concerned, you have lots of options, really. You could have separate rugs for you and your partner's sitting areas, or you could have a rug under both of the desks, or utilize the other half of the room for something else and visually separate it with a rug. Another thing you could use to visually separate the room is some kind of open, free-standing shelf. I'm separating my bedroom (bed from computer/desk area) with this kind of shelving which is pretty 'rugged', 'industrial', or I guess 'masculine', but I like how they look in my space. I had to do some digging but I was able to find some shelves that were 72" by 48" (14" deep) at Walmart for under $100, I got two of them.

It's hard for me to make any specific suggestions about anything else without actually seeing the room (or your desks/gaming setups, etc!) and having a feel for it.

I dont do too many field-fixes anymore... Im now in startup land where everything is shiny & new, and we get what we need.

 

My things that were stupid-useful that mostly haven't been listed so far:

Klein Tools electrician scissors - Most useful cutters ever. Take-a-finger-off sharp, cuts though thick cables, the top is great for straining phone / ethernet cable. A cable puller had a set, and he sold me on them in 30 seconds when he raked the wobbly cat5 strands across them, and they were perfectly straight. Would have been worth the $$ at twice the cost.

I replaced my mismatched tools in my bag w/ a iFixit toolkit when I needed to start buying new bits for iPads and the tri-lobes for macs. Ended up being about the same cost as those bits alone, and it had them, and a bunch of other stuff that was better then my cobbled together tools. The screwdriver is far-better made then the little plastic ones I had before. They have a new-toolkit, but I haven't used it.

A roll of Velcro ties Far more useful then zips. Use the scissors above to trim as needed.

Mars-eraser. Great for cleaning toner from printers, and cleaning up corroded connectors (first pass).

Melamine Sponge (aka Magic Eraser) - They clean up things nothing else does like the weird tint that macs wrist guards get from skin oil. Also great for getting toner off of the outside of printers. Also good for cleaning up cherry-coke from a $25k piece of sound gear.

Deoxit - You can use the cheap stuff that was like $5 a can at any automotive parts store, and that will work for most things. This is for more sensitive stuff. I used this repairing contacts in audio-control-surfaces, rebuilding DSLRs, etc. Its for when more then a mars-eraser is needed.

No worries, buddy. Happy to help. You don't need to worry about a preamp just yet, as your turntable has one built in. Just make sure you have the selector switch on the back of the unit set to "line" rather than "phono" and you're all set. As for connecting the speakers to the receiver, I managed to find a pic of the rear connections on the U310. It looks like they use spring clips to connect, so you're going to have to use bare wire.

First thing you'll need is a spool of speaker wire. I've had good luck with the Amazon Basics stuff, and it's about as cheap as decent wire gets. You'll need to strip a bit of the jacket off of each wire on each end. I do it by hand, but you might want to try a wire stripper if you're not comfortable free-handing things. Once you've exposed the bare wire, simply give each side a quick twist to secure them into separate threads and insert each thread into the back of the speaker, depressing the spring clip to allow the wire to fit into the hole and releasing it to bite down on the wire. As for the back of the amp, the procedure's the same if it has spring clips. If it has binding posts like the SMSL I linked earlier, you'll want to unscrew them a bit, wrap the bare wire around the exposed post, and tighten the post heads back down to create a nice, tight seal.

One word of warning on the off chance you've never done anything like this before. Remember to connect your positive (red) terminals on your speakers to your positive terminals on your amp, and your negative (black) to negative. The speaker wire makes that pretty easy, as one channel is marked with a little white line so you'll always know what's going where. Additionally, make sure your amp's left output is wired to your left speaker and the right to the right. Simple stuff, but it's easy to miss if this is your first time.

To build a system using the minimum recommendations from this sub, let's start with this diagram: http://i.imgur.com/Z8FMJ.png
DAC is optional, so is a subwoofer but I recommend one.

DAC: Behringer UCA202 $29.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B000KW2YEI

Amplifier: SMSL SA-50 $68.99 Link: http://amzn.com/B00F0H8TOC

Subwoofer: Dayton Audio SUB-800 $99.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B0063NU30K

Bookshelf Speakers: Micca MB42X $89.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B00E7H8GG2

Wire: 16-gauge Speaker Wire $8.00 Link: http://amzn.com/B006LW0WDQ

With DAC, this cable: Stereo Male to 2 RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B00I0HPK6O

Without DAC, this cable: Monoprice 105597 3-Feet Premium Stereo Male to 2RCA Male $5 Link: http://amzn.com/B0094A1F3S

This is a great starter system, I would have loved to had something like this starting out.
All of these pieces can be upgraded, do your research. Look for sales etc. Good luck and have fun.

Hold on a sec, I don't think that's necessarily the right answer... You definitely won't just be able to plug a microphone into the headset jack (which I think is what McQueenMK did), but the M8 (like most smartphones) use a TRRS jack to connect a headset with a microphone in one jack. By itself that won't help you with using an external mic, but with an adaptor like this one, you get separate headphone and microphone jacks which would let you connect an external mic as long as it has a 3.5mm connector. Please note that this won't necessarily work for all microphones, depending on factors like output level and impedance. Adapters like this are also available, which have the conversion to XLR built-in as well as additional components to help with impedance matching, but I can't vouch for that as I've never tried it myself.

Edit: To answer your original question a bit better, I haven't tried recording video using the external mic, but I can't see why it wouldn't work (but I can test tomorrow). If it doesn't work with the stock camera app, I know there are 3rd party camera apps that claim to be able to do it.

I will leave a note here for those wondering what a DAC/Amp is and when they are needed.

-----------------

DAC

A DAC is simply a digital to analog converter. A good DAC will minimize the amount of noise that is introduced into the system, noise being hissing, buzzing, ringing, etc. In more technical terms this would be errors made by the DAC when converting a stream of bits coming from your computer to an analog signal.

It doesn't cost much to produce an accurate DAC. Most on-board DACs are good enough that you won't notice any noise. If you do notice noise it's likely because of interference from other components on the motherboard. In that case a cheap external DAC, such as the Fiio D03k, should clean up the signal.

TL;DR: Don't notice any noise, don't buy an external DAC

------------------

AMP

An amplifier does what the name implies, it amplifies the analog signal going to the headphones. Some headphones are easier to power than others. The SHP9500s are just fine running off your motherboard, which probably has a relatively weak amp, but something like the HifiMan HE-6 requires a lot of power. My recommendation would be to try out the headphones without an amplifier first, then purchase an amp if you aren't reaching the listening volume you would like.

Let's say you need an amplifier, which one do you get? First you should know that there are two major types of amps: solid state and tube. Solid state amplifiers aim to provide clean power to the headphones. Tube amplifiers intentionally introduce distortion to the sound to make it sound more natural. This tends to cut down on harsh treble.
You want to make sure the amp you purchase has enough power for your headphones and will provide clean sound. A great entry level amplifier would be the FX Audio DAC X6 which also happens to have a built in DAC. If you require more power than that the Schiit Magni 3 is exceptional. Anything beyond that, I would recommend heading over to /r/headphones.

TL;DR: Happy with your listening volume? Don't buy a separate amplifier.

Yeah, I just googled it and it looks pretty legit. You might check if it has an option to use a front-panel jack as well. You might get better luck using the integrated audio rather than the dedicated audio (probably not, but it can't hurt if it'll save you money, right?)
I could try to explain what I'm thinking the issue is, but it's pretty deep into electronics theory. If you know some stuff about electrons, I'll try to ELI5 if you'd like.
One cool thing you've got is the capability to do SPDIF or TOSLINK out of your motherboard. These are digital communication methods for audio. In order to use it, you'll need something like a (Fiio Tashan)[https://www.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS] box. If you don't want to go that route, you can try something like a SMKN X5. They're not great for driving headphones, but you're using them with powered speakers, and they're super-cheap.
This sub is geared toward audio recording, so if you're planning to use a professional microphone, I'd go for a Focusrite Scarlett. The small two-channel ones are about $100, but they're powerful little boxes. I've recorded a ton of VO work, a couple of guitar pieces, and some misc stuff, and it hasn't let me down yet.

own some hd598's, hope i can help

i don't have a nontwist cable to test, but im pretty sure you need a nontwist cable to put into your headphones. you need to twist to shove them in all the way(if they aren't in all the way, you will only get sound out of your left ear, or quiet sound, or other stuffs). essentially no, you cannot use the headset without locking the cable into place.

i step on my cables a lot, and imo this is actually perfect. it keeps the cable in the jack perfectly. if you keep pulling on it for some months it'll seem to come loose easier, but cables are dirt cheap to replace in stead of you usually needing to get new headphones when you inevitably break your cable (went through 5+ headphones before i got my sennheisers)

i recommend grabbing one of the replacement cables sold on amazon. they hold into your pc jacks better than the cable+2.5>3.5mm adapter that it comes with in the first place. i got the 3m and it's been great (i broke my old one due to twisting it really really hard inside the jack with my chair, completely my fault. other than that it's held up great.)

i really don't understand the need to not have the twist mechanism, it's pretty beneficial. is there any reason why you'd actually need to remove it?

It's all about personal preference as to what you want to use, but I used Velcro cable ties, cable sleeves, and sticky cable clamps for both my battlestation and my TV/console station. I bought these in particular and they do just the trick for me at very low cost.

Ties: VELCRO Brand ONE WRAP Thin Ties | Strong & Reusable | Perfect for Fastening Wires & Organizing Cords | Black, 8 x 1/2-Inch | 100 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l3bJBbHE1JZZS

Sleeves: 20" Cable Management Sleeve with Free Zip Ties https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR6QQLR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Clamps: eBoot Adjustable Cable Clips Adhesive Nylon Wire Clamps, Black, 50 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYO307S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J3bJBbRA9GWRQ

Stick some clamps behind your desk and down the edges of the desk legs to run the wires and cords along them. Just be warned that the residue may stick and might peel off paint or wood, so take caution if you want to tear them off. I'm sure you can find better ones that don't potentially damage your desk, but with proper removal care, you should be fine.

I like the velcro straps because they can easily be adjusted, removed, and reused. They're also versatile for any other random cables you want to store.

Hey Kenji, thanks for doing this AMA! Big fan, the The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science is always open in our kitchen.

I’ve cooked your Deep-Fried, Sous Vide, 36-Hour, All-Belly Porchetta recipe several times and it’s awesome. My question to you is how can I translate this recipe & technique to a part of a lamb?

-Would Lamb Belly be the best cut for this? Or would I have better luck using a meatier part of the lamb like a boned out chuck or leg?

-For how long and what temp would you recommend cooking it for?

-For finishing, would I be better off in a blazing hot oven versus deep-fried due to the absence of the thick skin found on the pork belly.

Thanks for taking the time to answer our questions!

Those are all gaming headsets which are rarely ever worth the price, especially from those brands.

You'll get far superior audio quality (especially at high volume), comfort and value out of a decent normal pair of headphones + clip-on mic.

For headphones, check the Head-Fi list of recommended cans by price range over here, pick the best you can afford or just ask over at /r/headphones.

As a cheap and pretty good clip-on mic, pretty much everyone recommends this one.

If you want to use it on a PS4, which has - I think - only the 4 pole mic+audio combined port, just use something like this.

Also, take care that your audio output has enough power. I think the Dualshock 4 can drive headphones up to 32Ω? You might to read up on that.

---

This doesn't only apply to gaming and consoles, ofc. Never buy gaming headsets or soundbars or prebuilt PCs etc. There's always a better DIY solution unless you're really lazy.

> Currently the main coax line goes through the basement direct to the 1st floor wall outlet, then coax to the modem.
I’ve made a drawing of how I understand the internet could go to the splitter, then run again to the 1st floor outlet, then to the modem.

Ideally, you'd have zero interruptions between the coax coming from the street, all the way to the plug on the modem. Since it sounds like the coax enters the walls to the first floor from the basement, just be sure you eliminate any coax splitters by using a barrel adapter
UNLESS you also want a coax drop for Cable TV elsewhere in the house.

Then it's just a matter of making sure you've simplified the circuit to the street using the fewest number of splitters as you can. Each two-way split introduces approximately 3.5dB of loss (a little more than 50%) of power lost. Splitters are also known to be super poorly made and absolutely go bad after a few years of use. You may consider replacing any that you're using. These are decent ones.


> I'm feeling bold

Two of those ethernet strips there in the basement look like basic patch panels. They're just for organizing the cables and don't do any switching, per se. I'd figure out what connections you actually need in the house, beyond maybe a ethernet connection to the modem, the TV and your desktop PC and then go through and eliminate everything else. If you want to double check where the lines are terminated to through the massive web of cables, you can pick up an Ethernet Probe and Test kit to make tracking everything down easier. I'd (ideally) only buy one that has a dedicated ethernet jack and is made by Extech, Fluke, or Klein. As a bonus, It's a handy tool for tracing out ANY sort of wiring, too.

Once you eliminate all the unnecessary stuff, you can start making it look nice. Use some velcro wire ties and bundle everything until it looks respectable. You MAY find that you have odd-length cables used as patch cables between the switch and the patch panel. Don't cut anything, and maybe lay out anything you eliminate by length so you can reuse them if your now-neat-looking bundle could benefit from different-length cables. Don't forget to label everything for clarity using your own philosophy.


> I’m not sure how to use this stuff, if it’s past it’s prime, or if I should even bother. But, If it could be useful I’d like to use it. I just don’t understand it despite reading the sticky’s, etc.

You'll feel a lot more comfortable once you understand what everything is and where it all goes.

All that cable is probably Cat5 or Cat5e at best. If you want to be ready for gigabit speeds in the coming years, you might consider running some new Cat6a or better. I don't know anything about the big switch in the photos, but it's probably doing the job fine for now - If you want faster than 100mbit/s network speeds though, you'll need to upgrade it along with the ethernet. As with the ethernet, it's not a priority, just a nice-to-have.

The big coax amplifier you've got there was probably built in 1974 (note: pre-internet) and is all kinds of lossy/noisy mess. I'd go ahead and get rid of that and anything coax-related that you don't think you'll end up using. There's better stuff available on the market now for stupidly cheap, if you decide that you still need an amplified coax signal.

I'd love to see more pictures once you get it all put together and looking nice. If you need any further hardware advice, let us know!

I have two of these: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Control-Smartphone-Simple/dp/B00BQ5RYI4/ref=sr_1_2?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1543109259&sr=1-2&keywords=Harmony+remote


I dont even know where my original fan remotes are anymore. Two are Hunter Douglas, big ones like 52”, and one is something like a Fanimation fan or something like that.



The fan itself is inconsequential. Depending on where you live and the home improvement stores you have, you will find after market fan controllers. Some of those should work with Harmony, too. I personally have never needed to tinker with those but I heard there is a forum out there somewhere where they’ve mapped what controllers work with Harmony.


It would probably still just be easier to call the Harmony support people and reach out to the support folks for whatever fan you’re looking at to see what they say.

Well the HD600 is the most obvious upgrade choice.

They need amping, but they're not hard to drive and they scale well with amp quality. This means you have some flexibility when it comes to the amp. If you plan on upgrading to a better amp in the future, grab an UCA202 for the time being, and save for a $100+ amp for later. If you want an amp now and are not looking for an upgrade in the near future, get a FiiO E10K or SMSL SD793-II.

You can also try simply using them straight out of your PC for starters, if you happen to have a higher quality motherboard by any chance you may be pleasantly surprised by its ability to drive them, and you can postpone getting an amp and save the $30 for the UCA202.

Those flat things, are good for 5-10 miles at best to work the way they are advertised, ie: connect and get 100 channels! Reality, is that they can perform decently at about upto 20 miles or so if you have an amplified one, and stations and conditions. I happen to be 20 +- miles from my local TX farm. With a cheapo flat flimsy plastic thing with an amp. I got 28 of 55 channels in my zone. Some were pixelly some would work at times. Some would come and go depending on placement of the anntena. It was enough to convince me that going full OTA would be worth the investment.

So what you need to get is a nice decent antenna.

This will be a good one for you:

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-Outdoor-Antenna-Range/dp/B0024R4B5C

I have it and it performs, outstanding! I get 55 channels, out of the 55 in the area. There are few more LPTV's in another direction, which are more jesus freaks so I don't care.

I get one station which I didn't even think would come in regardless of the various sites, at about 50 miles. Mine is located 15 feet up using an old DBS J Pole mount, and a pole extension. No preamp. This antenna includes the mount. I personally would suggest that you also get:

https://www.3starinc.com/satellite-dish-antenna-swaged-ground-pole-mast-166-od.html?filter=%26fd9%3D51

And use it with the mount included with the antenna. Fit the pipe into the mount, use a rubber mallet and drive it in. THEN drill a hole through the mount and pipe. Tighten up. Then mount the antenna to the top.

To point the antenna I'd split the difference and aim it about 30 degrees MAGNETIC. You can get a decent compass application in Google Application Store for your phone.

That should cover the bases for all the major stuff. Big5, and the important subnets like Cozi, Decades, AntennaTV etc..

Be sure to run RG6 cable.

Inf FL I would also strongly suggest this for lighting:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016AIYU6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Along with PROPER GROUNDING rod and grounding of the mount per NEC and local code!

I don't know if it is worth it to you to buy a big keyboard case but this is what I do. I have a very large keyboard case that I have my gear set up in. All the connections are set up and the wires are held down with velcro. I only have to hook up one piece of gear and I have all the cables labeled very clearly so any gear savy person could set my gear up for me. Live setup requires zero thinking. I can have everything set up and ready in less than five min. All I need is power and two lines out to the house.

If you can't go the giant coffin setup route then go with OCD labeling of all the things. To be rock solid fail proof have 2 of every cable you need. Both ends of every cable should be labeled as to what they plug into with a matching label on the device that the cable gets plugged into. Just match up the labels. Also have your power supply sorted before hand. Get a really nice power strip and secure all of your wall warts to it with tape or velcro straps. Label and wrap each power cable coming off of it so you can quickly identify what everything plugs into. Color coded tape is great for this but that might be overkill. I just use a label printer.

Then practice setting up your gear a few times. Tear your setup down and put everything out in a hallway. Turn all the lights off in your room and set up all your gear with just a flashlight in your teeth. Anything that confuses you for even a second needs to be streamlined, labeled better or made easier in whatever way necessary. Basically you need to be able to set up your gear in the dark while you are drunk and high. It takes a little prep work but it makes things so easy once you get up on stage.

Edit: These velcro straps are the best thing ever.

The MDRV6 is cheaper, but out of stock on Amazon, and the 7506 is only about $10 more expensive, so I could spring for that. When you mention swapping the pads, are you talking about these as replacements? And how easy is it to swap pads in and out? Also, any idea on the comfort level (both of those pads and of the 7506)? They look like they'd be decently comfortable, and I know Sony's pretty good about that (I've tried out one of their MDRXB950BT's which were pretty comfortable).

Awesome build man! One thing you are lacking is cable management! But that isn't a big deal but if you want to take it to the next level of pretty come over to /r/CableManagement . Those guys there know there shit and are very helpful!

I personally would recommend some zip ties, twisty ties, and some velcro! Velcro is the shit.

For bigger wires these worked great for me. A bit pricey but they are wonderful.

http://www.amazon.com/ColorYourLife-Reusable-Fastening-Microfiber-Packaging/dp/B00CI5YW4U/ref=pd_ys_sf_s_rp_a1_2_p?ie=UTF8&refRID=0CKBF12EX0GRNFPZWYYH

Smaller things I usually go with this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GRTHEYI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Velcro-Reusable-Self-Gripping-Inches-91140/dp/B001E1Y5O6/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1409399401&sr=1-1&keywords=zip+ties

Zip Ties

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OK7P3G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6233-Cable-Ties-500-Piece/dp/B000NPZ4D0/ref=pd_rhf_gw_s_cp_31_AGK5?ie=UTF8&refRID=1KER4A54A5HGWD1C6GC6

Op, correct me if I am wrong, but they look like the super awesome ones from Amazon - I keep them on hand as they are super useful. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are many different replacement battery packs sold online, but I'm somewhat wary of any of them. Any which has 4 cells isn't going to be trustworthy unless it has a charging circuit built in to the battery pack, because you need to monitor the voltage of each battery cell individually and essentially charge each battery separately to be safe. Few if any budget battery packs will do that.

I would go the route of finding a decent case and then using your own 18650 batteries. That gives you control over what batteries you use, and lets you replace them on the go or over time as the eventually wear out.

For a case, something like the Fenix BA4C or this random case from Amazon should work. Then add 2x or 4x protected 18650 batteries.

For the batteries, I'd go with KeepPower 3400 mAh or the 2600 mAh ones if you don't need as much runtime. They use genuine Panasonic cells with a protection circuit, and are highly favored by /r/flashlight. Other trustworthy brands include Olight, Fenix, and Nitecore. Make sure you're buying from a legitimate distributor though; there are lots of fakes on eBay and Amazon.

A good charger would be the Nitecore i2 or i4.

Hey guys, I have a few questions about purchasing some high end cans. I'm using two solutions for amplification so I'll kind of start there.

I'm currently using a Harman/Kardon AVR 320 to power my HD 650's and this is my preferred output. I don't know if using a receiver is frowned upon but it was my dad's old one and he let me have it for free. The other option I have is the FiiO E10k DAC/Amp but I feel like it has a bit of a different sound. It's mostly for the office given it's small size.

The reason that I bring up the device powering it is that I'm looking at the HD 800 S since its the best that they have to offer and the cost isn't a concern necessarily. First of all, how much of a difference is there between the regular HD 800 and the 800 S? is it worth the substantial price difference if the cost isn't a concern? Some reviews say that given how much you'd spend on the 800 you might as well get the 800 S. I've also read some negativity about the HD 700 so I feel skeptical about them but is it just people poking fun at the frequency response? And what should I use to power it? Sennheiser makes their own amp for them, what's the general option on them?

Thanks in advance guys :)