Reddit mentions: The best electronic component sensors

We found 125 Reddit comments discussing the best electronic component sensors. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 71 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

9. UNIK MPU-9250 9DOF Module Nine-axis Attitude Gyro Compass Acceleration Magnetic Field Sensor

UNIK MPU-9250 9DOF Module Nine-axis Attitude Gyro Compass Acceleration Magnetic Field Sensor
Specs:
Height0.59 Inches
Length0.98 Inches
Weight0.01 Pounds
Width0.08 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on electronic component sensors

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where electronic component sensors are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Electronic Component Sensors:

u/A_Shocker · 3 pointsr/telescopes

Yes, electronics can cost a lot, and many of the telescope manufacturers make things, that when I look at them belong in the 1990s or 2000s, in terms of the way they work, and honestly could have been $400. It's basically the TI calcuator system: https://xkcd.com/768/

People have replaced those control systems, using technology (especially things like improved stepper control) which has come about for various reasons, like 3D printers, and simply faster microcontrollers.

Here's one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCBgmgc8qiA conversion (I suspect based on that it was using one of the faster controllers, but mine can do fine with an Arduino Mega + Ramps (the cheap controller))

u/d_dubya · 1 pointr/CR10

I actually just ordered this inductive sensor from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1777XK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . In the reviews someone used it with success on our machine and said it was a significant improvement. Looks like an easy install by cutting and splicing the wires near the sensor. Seems like many people have success with this.

​

I'll check out the tinymonsters firmware, that also seems to be pretty popular. Is there any functional difference? Or is it just better behind the scenes?

u/centenary · 4 pointsr/vridge

Here is the main website detailing how to build an EDTracker. You should make sure to read through this website in addition to reading my comment.

You have a few decisions to make:

  1. MPU-6050, MPU-9150, or MPU-9250 gyroscope board. The first does not have a magnetometer and is prone to drifting, so it's not recommended. The second is the best of the three options and most plans are built around it. The third is basically equivalent to the second, except that the board is larger, so you'll need to adapt plans to build around the larger board. Finding the second can be hard though, while the third is pretty widely available.

  2. SparkFun Pro Micro or a compatible clone (Arduino board based on ATmega32u4 microcontroller with USB and 24 pins). There are lots of options here, just be careful that whatever you get is compatible with the SparkFun Pro Micro

  3. Whether you want a reset orientation button on the tracker. This is nice to have, but isn't strictly necessary because you can also reset the orientation using a keyboard shortcut. If you go with the MPU-9250 board, you'll have less room for a reset orientation button since the MPU-9250 board is larger, but it's possible to squeeze it on

  4. How to mount the components together. As discussed on the website, you can do protoboard, PCB, or breadboard. You can also mount the components directly to each other with tiny wires connecting the components, but that requires some tricky soldering. From easiest to hardest: PCB, broadboard, protoboard, mounting components to each other. From largest to smallest: breadboard, PCB, protoboard, mounting components to each other.

    *****

    Here's what I did for my build:

  5. I purchased an MPU-9250 board from Amazon here

  6. I purchased a Pro Micro clone from Amazon here. Note that my Pro Micro clone seems to have trouble running its programming upon first being connected to power, necessitating a soft-reset by connecting the RST pin to ground. After the soft reset, the Pro Micro clone runs its programming successfully. I plan to wire a button to the RST pin so that I can do the soft-reset every time I plug in my Pro Micro clone.

  7. I decided not to go for a reset orientation button on the tracker because I wanted to keep the cost down =P I'm fine with resetting orientation using a keyboard shortcut

  8. I decided to mount the components directly to each other, again to keep the cost down. Mine kinda looks like this. Here is another build that is slightly less compact. I don't really recommend this mounting option unless you have a good understanding of the wiring diagrams, decent soldering skills, and a lot of patience fiddling with tiny wires.

    *****

    After you build the EDTracker, it requires programming and calibration. I would follow the instructions from the website above, I don't have anything to add to those instructions.

    In order to make the EDTracker software work with VRidge, you'll need OpenTrack to translate between the two pieces of software. Follow the instructions here to setup the EDTracker software and OpenTrack. You'll also need to set VRidge to take sensor data from the FreeTrack protocol.

    There's one very important piece of information that doesn't appear anywhere. You want to start OpenTrack immediately after the orientation has been reset in the EDTracker software. That way OpenTrack will have the same understanding of the neutral position as the EDTracker software. If this isn't done correctly, you get really strange side effects when moving around. If you then want to map a keyboard button to reset the orientation, this should be done in the EDTracker software and not the OpenTrack software.

    Hopefully you find this helpful!
u/HelpDesk7 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.

I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.

These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.

Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.

One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.

The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.

The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.

That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.

Good luck!

u/Orpheus321 · 1 pointr/hydro

Man, you're on a whole other level, that project is amazing though. I did ponder on going for a cheaper probe like you did. One thought I had was to maybe get two and install the other one a few weeks after installing the first, both to verify data integrity between them as well as to have sort of a failover when the first one inevitably conks out. So you can essentially just get any ol probe? I liked the pressure sensor you used as well, thought about going that route as well but I picked up a waterproof ultra sonic sensor instead. It was ~$15 so figured it can't hurt to mess around/ have fun with if it doesn't work as well as I expect. I can definitely use this project as reference on some things though. Thanks very much for the links.

u/schorhr · 1 pointr/robotics

H-Bridge (for the UNO there are also shields)

Sensors e.g. this / that though you can also get tctr5000 modules for cents elsewhere.

And note that if you are not set on a line-follower, the kit you've chosen already includes the ultrasonic distance sensor which is nie for robotic projects as well :-)

Do you have a soldering iron and multimeter? Even a cheap $4 multimeter is fine for low-current & low-voltage tasks, and makes your life easier (checking voltages, connections, resistor values...)

As for a soldering iron, even a $1 will do (if it doesn't burn down your house ;-) ) - but an adjustable temperature one will be more worthwhile. Even a $20 soldering station will do to get started if you don't want to spend $80-$100. I tried to avoid soldering for years, and it was a big mistake. It's actually easy and useful.


And another note: The 2wd and 4wd chars will not always go in a straight line. Motors don't run 100% in sync, even at the same voltage.

With a rotary encoder you can ajust the speed in software. You can use one of those IR reflective sensors modules, or a gap sensor, or even a hall sensor... example


You can also get 2wd kits example, but overall, they aren't as great of a value (and as you can see, they just include the standard modules)

A "sensor shield" like in that kit is nice though as it reduces the wiring chaos a bit :-) They cost $1 for the UNO at Aliexpress, probably more expensive at Amazon.

u/beachandbyte · 2 pointsr/CR10

I've spliced multiple accessories including led lighting into the 12v terminals of the cr-10x without any issue. Currently I'm printing with my bed at 65 degrees and print head at 210. I'm in the US on 120v drawing ~(2.6 after heating -3.15 amps during heating)/~220 watts. You can easily power multiple devices off the 12v terminals without any issue.

The readings above include includes:

12v Noctua Fan - https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

12v Proximity Sensor (ABL) - https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-LJC18A3-B-Z-1-10mm-Capacitance-Proximity/dp/B0756XDQM4

5v Lighting - Partial strip - https://www.amazon.com/Lighting-Control-Findyouled-Backlight-Monitors/dp/B01M28RKH5


I'm using a mix between Marlin 1.1.8 and the custom firmware provided by www.th3dstudio.com. (If your considering doing ABL and your not super familiar with electronics I highly recommend th3dstudio.com It's important to support the engineers/developers that bring the amazing improvements in 3d printing to the masses)

I usually use octoprint with pi3 or pi zero but for these readings I had nothing plugged into the micro usb port.

If you have any questions or need some more information about how I do my wiring I would be happy to help!

u/marzipanorbust · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Will do. So far, things have been pretty straight forward. Marlin config has taken a bit, I will post the final Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h when I'm done.

​

The biggest challenge was the Z-Probe. The logic on the endstops for the SKR is 5V, but the printrboard and probe are 12V. There was talk on the interwebs about solving the issue with a voltage divider with resistors - but that maxed out my electronics knowledge. A 5V inductive sensor was only $15 (for 2) so I bought them and it works perfectly and reliably.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XD44CW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I'm down to calibrating everything, and I'll do a final update once it's all done. My first print will be a board tray that can be fit up inside the metal plus underbelly. Right now, everything is wire spaghetti behind the printer.

u/mbardeen · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Let me see if I can organize it into something reasonably understandable.

First up, the controller: https://i.redd.it/zmxxkfwqy9g31.jpg

Stuffed in that box are:

  • 1 HiLetGo ESP8266 NodeMCU
  • 1 Analog voltage sensor
  • 2 Double Relay control boards (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078478SZ9)
  • 1 Voltage Regulator (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ0SC2C)
  • 1 MPPT Solar Charge Controller (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PT7HBRF)
  • 1 Waterproof Ultrasonic sensor module (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FQCNXPP)

    For the valves, I'm using a 1" Motorized Ball valve for the outlet (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9B4P45) and a 1/2" Motorized Ball valve for the inlet (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X99PHJJ)

    Each of the relay modules control one of the ball valves. The valves are 2 wire, reverse polarity and operate on anywhere from 9 to 24v, so I just use battery voltage. In their normal closed position, both relays on the board are set to ground. When I want to open/close the valve, I switch the appropriate relay on the module to on (+12v).

    The ultrasonic sensor is set at the top of the tank and measures the distance to the surface. It's not the cleanest of signals, but it will give a rough idea on where the water level is in relation to the top of the tank. You can then transform that into a rough percentage.

    I use ESPHome on the NodeMCU, just for simplicity. The code is pretty long, but not very complicated. Just a bunch of different switches to abstract the base functionality into something cleaner for Home Assistant. I'll clean it up and put it in a github account or something like that and link it here later, likewise with the Home Assistant code that I use to run it.
u/swingking8 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Maybe using the steppers, and recalibrating to a limit switch might work well? If that's not an option, you definitely need absolute positioning.

I work in R&D developing these kinds of sensors and there are simply not many absolute options out there. Encoders are differential only most often differential, so unless you're saving your state to EEPROM or something, you will run into the same problems you're having with steppers.

What would work best and easiest is a rotary potentiometer. It might be as simple as hooking a multi-turn pot to your joint. Assuming a decently regulated power supply, this is a great way to go. Or if you need space, [these] (http://www.amazon.com/SPECTRA-SYMBOL-Softpot-Rotary-Potentiometer/dp/B00OSLO1PM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415895418&sr=8-1&keywords=rotary+softpot) are great. They have a huge sweep compared to most pots, as you can see.

u/scubascratch · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Making a simulated mouse trigger is very easy, get an arduino Leonardo which can be trivially programmed to emulate a USB mouse with a couple lines of code.

I am not sure what kind of IR trigger you want to implement - do you already have an IR transmitter he can trigger somehow? If that’s the case you can add an IR receiver which can receive standard IR signals from things like remote controls.

Do you need to sense something like muscular movement in his face? You might be able to hook up something like attach a small magnet with tape to his eyebrow and then position a [https://www.amazon.com/IDUINO-Arduino-Compatible-Effect-Magnetic/dp/B019GU8UY2](Hall effect sensor) nearby so he can flex an eyebrow to change the hall effect sensor reading. The hall sensor will be connected to an analog input on the arduino.

The code will look something like this:

int magnetThreshold = 300; // this value will need to be determined experimentally

void setup(){
//initiate the Mouse library
Mouse.begin();
}

void loop(){
//if the magnetic sensor is triggered send a Left mouse click
if (analogRead(1)) > magnetThreshold){
Mouse.click();
delay(1000); // wait a full second
// make sure magnet is no longer triggered
while (analogRead(1)) > magnetThreshold) {
delay(250);
}
}

There are also other kind of sensors you can use like color sensors, pressure sensors (blowing into a tube) and even tongue switches.

u/geicogecko420 · 1 pointr/arduino

THANK YOU SO MUCH!! I am attempting to attach a flow meter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HR6BTYQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1THAZDOWP300U)
to an Arduino and gave it measure the amount of liquid that is going through it and display it on a liquid crystal display (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019D9TYMI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2IAB2RW3LLT8D)
and have it display the amount of liquid going through as ounces.

If this is to much I understand but I figured this would be a great place to turn for help.

u/Raider1284 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

an $8 inductive sensor also just plugs into the z-endstop, but you would have to solder the connection on yourself. https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Detecting-Distance-Inductive-Proximity/dp/B01M1777XK

But if you want something plug and play get a BL Touch: https://www.amazon.com/BLTouch-Leveling-Sensor-Premium-Printer/dp/B01FFV2TOS

with all of these options you have to update and flash the firmware to enable and allow autoleveling.

u/netlohcs · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi
  1. Yes - sometimes. Here is the weird thing. I have two tables that are built almost identically. The table on the far side, away from the slide is the one that is having more issues. It started with the 100 hole. It would randomly trip quite frequently, enough so that it made it not very fun to play, especially any 2 player games. When the slide is used, it just makes it worse, and other sensors are occasionally tripped.

  2. sensors do have their own channel for wiring. You can see an image of it here: https://www.reddit.com/r/cableporn/comments/5iljt5/something_a_little_different_the_underside_of_my/ I tried to make sure the sensor wires cross the LED wires at right angles if at all possible. The sensors do share a common 3.3v and ground rail.
  3. If you are referring to the power supply for the LEDs, yes its pretty massive and a bit of overkill - 100 amps @ 12v. I haven't really had any issues with the LEDs though. So if youre referring more to the sensors, all 8 of those are ran off of the 3.3v output from the raspberry pi. The sensors i'm using are these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XT0PBC0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
u/ei8htohms · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MU1GEY/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Can't vouch that it's the same, but there is a lot of good info additionally in this thread you should check out including an inductive sensor thawkins believes is better suited to the task. If I was willing to ditch the glass bed I'd be going this route I believe.

http://www.printrbottalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=113&t=6812

u/tehPopeExploder · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I'll start with the non-printable mods:

Replaced the PSU with a 750w ATX PSU I had lying around.
If you do this, you will more than likely need to add a power resistor to the 5v rail. I also removed all the original wires and connectors from the PSU and resoldered just what I needed with better rated wire.

Glass bed on top of the aluminum. I just went to Lowes and got them to cut a few pieces of single pane glass.

Mosfet circuit for the heated bed:
https://www.amazon.com/BIQU-Power-Module-Expansion-Printer/dp/B01HEQVQAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493092441&sr=8-1&keywords=3d+printer+mosfet

Upgraded Y Carriage:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/heated-beds/products/anodized-aluminum-y-carriage-plate-upgrade-v2-for-prusa-i3-reprap-3d-printer

New Belts:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/linear-motion/products/10-meters-6mm-width-gt2-timing-belt-for-reprap-delta-3d-printer-kossel-rostock

Geared Pulley to replace the smooth one:
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/linear-motion/products/3d-printer-idler-pulley-aluminum-dual-ball-bearing-3mm-bore-16-teeth-gt2-belt

Upgraded Heated Bed, this bed heats up slow and I also lost a little bit of build volume. I plan on getting something better here very soon. Once it's up to temp it works well though.
https://reprapchampion.com/collections/heated-beds/products/new-improved-mk3-aluminum-reprap-3d-printer-prusa-i3-heated-hot-bed-build-plate

Inductive Sensor for auto level:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LWNCY4C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Copper Tape Because the inductive sensor can't see glass I put this on the bottom side.
https://www.amazon.com/Tapes-Master-10ft-Copper-Foil/dp/B00Z8MCJW2/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1493092625&sr=1-6&keywords=copper+tape

Firmware:
To get the sensor working, you'll have to change the firmware unless you only want to use it as a limit switch. The only option that i'm aware of is Skynet which is based on Marlin and works fairly well. You can find that on their facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/skynet3ddevelopment/

Blue LED Extruder Fan (because the original broke). I don't remember where I got this from. I'd like to find an RGB one! ha

I added a bunch of WS2812 LEDs controlled by an Arduino at the moment, I am using OctoPi so eventually i'll have that control them but at this point they're set to UV colors because it looks cool.


Printed mods:

Frame braces:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1857991
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1430727

Y Carriage Risers:
The Y carriage sits too low and will smack into the Y axis motor so I made these risers to solve that:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2226564

Y Belt Clamp: You'll need one for the new carriage, but I cannot find the one that I used.

Auto level bracket: Though I only have PLA and it kept warping so I made a metal version of it:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2006986

Anti-Z Wobble I modified this but no longer have the file, I also printed a cylinder to wedge into the hole above the lead screws.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858435

Bearings I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Beerings-Malt-ABEC-Skateboard-Bearings/dp/B005NFXHQG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493094188&sr=8-2&keywords=beerings

Belt Tentioners I can't remember which ones I finally used.

I think this is everything. If I remember something else i'll post it.


u/eatenbyagrue · 3 pointsr/ReefTank

Basically, I bought a float switch like this http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Water-Control-Plastic-Switch/dp/B005FDT02Q/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1406740109&sr=8-6&keywords=float+switch and clipped it to the rim of my tank so that it activates when the water gets higher than it should under normal operation.

There are a lot of different ways to wire it up so it shuts off your pump. Perhaps the simplest would be to connect the float switch to a relay that controls pump power. In my case, I have a custom built reef controller that I made using a Raspberry Pi. It does a whole bunch of stuff, including monitoring levels, temps, Ph and texting me when issues arise. It was relatively easy to wire the switch to the Pi and modify my program to shut off the pumps if overflow was detected. It also says "Main tank overflow detected, shutting down pumps" in a cool robot voice ;)

u/Gabgra11 · 1 pointr/AnetA8

On my machine, I have added the following upgrades:

u/notpace · 3 pointsr/Kombucha

I built some custom scales using scrap hardwood and an HX711 AD converter and four 50kg load sensors for each scale. I'm running a very buggy and slightly modified version of tatobari's hx711py library on the raspberry pi to pull weight settings, but the readings are very shaky and extremely sensitive to changes in temperature, so it's only accurate to about +/-5% (which I'm comfortable with now). I have hardcoded tare weights for full and empty kegs/CO2 canisters, so the python script is sending a calculated percentage to the influxdb database (housed on another, more stable machine in my house) using the influxdb API.

My solution is a little janky but it came together quickly with tools that I'm familiar with. Other folks on r/homebrewing have come up with similar methods and PLAATO just introduced a commercial solution for weighing kegs.

u/zdiggler · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

http://www.vellemanusa.com/products/view/?country=us&lang=enu&id=350507

I use this with my dehumidifier. in summer. I use automotive fuel pump form junkyard to pump water out.

when water level hit high mark pump activate. When it get low pump deactive.

Use bare wires instead of of PCB.

Easy to put together and works great!!

http://www.amazon.com/Velleman-K2639-Liquid-Level-Controller/dp/B0086GAGEU

u/gredr · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Alternative solution: https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Capacitance-Proximity-Sensor-Switch/dp/B00542U3M4

Doesn't require you to switch out your bed, works just fine with glass, PCB, aluminum, steel, your hand, whatever.

u/ScratchLS · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

I'm interested in the same thing. I've only gone as far as to install one of these to get alerts on water level:

http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Water-Control-Plastic-Switch/dp/B005FDT02Q

I have a sump though so it's probably much easier to put one down there than on the top tank.

u/plensu · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

If you do end up needing a replacement. This is the one I got. Works great and not too bad of a price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUYSWXK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Gliese581Visitor · 1 pointr/CR10



You can replace the sensor. This is courtesy of Jason Cook; sign up on facebook for the CR-10S user group and you can read his entire post there!

"Having trouble leveling the CR-10s Pro? Is the leveling sensor not repeatable and leaving you with bad first layers? Here is my solution:

  1. Replace the leveling probe with an inductive probe. This one is a direct fit, all you have to do is install a new connector or change the connector from your old sensor. $8.99 on Amazon.

    URBEST 8mm Detecting Distance... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1777XK…

  1. Install the Tiny Machines firmware. Search this group for more details.

    The probe is extremely repeatable and does not seem to be significantly affected by temperature or humidity. I have mine set so that it detects the bed 2mm high and then the tiny Machines firmware remembers the offset on a power cycle. It nails the first layer every time and when probing the bed, the nozzle is high enough that it does not leave plastic dots on the bed. I was always having to tinker with the old sensor settings and had a lot of bad prints. Now, I just hit print and it works perfectly every time.

    I hope this helps. I love printing with my CR-10S Pro now."
u/skytzx · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I would look into using vibration/shock sensors. Thankfully a pack of 10 is pretty cheap and should be enough to cover each of your windows. You can also look into PIR sensors which use infrared light to detect proximity, but then you may have to deal with false positives since they can be inconsistent with different lighting.

For taking nightvision photos, you could use a regular USB webcam and remove the IR filter. You may also need to use infrared LEDs to get a bright enough image.

For powering the whole thing, I wouldn't hook it up to your car's battery since you could wake up with a dead battery in the morning. I would just use a usb battery pack.

u/JKraems · 1 pointr/AnetA8

I use a LJ18A3-8-Z/BX sensor and used this guide to set it up. I made a custom bracket that fits onto my custom entruder carriage. I find myself having to adjust the z-offset regularly and I'm not sure why. I don't know if my sensor is moving in the bracket or if the sensor is just that sensitive to temperature/humidity. Overall I like it and I think it is better than manually leveling the bed.

u/TsuDoughNym · 6 pointsr/Python

As someone who just finished a semester project with an Arduino and a Hall Effect Sensor, this is brilliant but the sensor would have to be installed in-line with either the water intake pipe or underneath the drip tip where the coffee filters into the pot.....our issue was there wasn't enough pressure to get the wheel to spin fast enough to register a pulse, so this isn't that trivial.

For reference, here is the sensor I used. I can link the Python code if anyone cares.

u/bigbiltong · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

What about the 24v? Are there any considerations for the increased voltage on the Tornado? Is there a picture somewhere I can follow so I don't fry anything on the MKS?


And how about this sensor, bueno?

u/KevMag · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Use a capacitance sensor. Same price but senses anything. 1-10 mm adjustable sensor is $7.35 on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00542U3M4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

u/a-s-t-r-o-n-u-t · 3 pointsr/smarthome

I had done something similar. DIY stuff - JSN SR04T waterproof ultrasonic range finder along with a nodeMCU (ESP8266) . The sensor is fixed on top of the barrel and twice a day it measures the distance to the water level. You should Mount it about 20cm above the max. water level because that is the minimum distance it can measure. You will need microcontroller to calculate waterlevel. Here is an arduino tutorial to get you started.

u/jbwii · 1 pointr/HotasDIY

I've used these in the past for a non joystick related project:

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Hall Sensor

u/xakh · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

The circuit, washers, and fabric are decidedly more expensive than this, when all's said and done. They're somewhat similar if you're thinking in terms of just the actual hardware, but paying the employees that make sure the washers themselves are level first, and to assemble the more complicated system first is also a factor. This literally just screws into place.

u/sewy7d · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1777XK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I checked the voltage and it seems to be right.

4.5v when open
0v when closed

u/Scuwr · 6 pointsr/spacex

Or they bought one of these, this, and this, and now you have all the sensors for your spacecraft.

u/naughtynuts96 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I had to buy this bed sensor before I got a good level.

URBEST 8mm Detecting Distance Approach Sensor Inductive Proximity Switch NPN NO DC 6-36V Cylinder Type https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1777XK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XcBtDbJDC8Y2P