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Reddit reviews: The best electronic components

We found 3,339 Reddit comments discussing the best electronic components. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 1,705 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top Reddit comments about Electronic Components:

u/Parnax · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

The NVidia reference card for the 2070 Super has a good cooler and runs cool and quiet.

The Noctua LH-L12 you found is the right one. This cooler has been discontinued by Noctua and is out of stock worldwide. There was one in stock at Amazon.de a few days ago but now it's gone. If you did get one, you'd remove the top fan and mount a A12x15 fan in the case fan slot directly above it. Alternatively, you'd attach the A12x15 fan directly to the top of the cooler in place of the stock top fan. However, I'm not sure that the clips that came with the cooler would work on the slimmer fan.

It is strongly recommended to add a Noctua fan with size depending on the cooler used. It is OK to reuse the stock case fans to cool the graphics card. You could remove the case fan which comes installed over the motherboard and move it to the open case fan slot over the graphics card next to the fan already installed there.

The NVMe SSD selected uses MLC NAND and has 600 TBW endurance. MLC is superior to either QLC or TLC.

The power supply calculator shows that this build needs 414W of power, so 600W should be sufficient.

Please don't use liquid metal as thermal paste in a PC like this one you will be moving a lot. It stays liquid and conducts electricity. It could create a short and destroy electrical components if it leaks out. The Noctua cooler comes with good thermal paste. Kryonaut Thermal Grizzly is another good option. When applying thermal paste on the 3900X don't use the pea or X method. Be sure that the paste is evenly spread across the entire top of the chip. There are three chiplets in the 3900X and none of them are in the center.

The motherboard comes with a WiFi antenna. I'd use it to start and consider upgrading if needed.

With the change in currency, VAT and your discount I couldn't be sure that I got the budget right. Is it OK?

I'm glad to help. Let me know if you have any other questions.

u/stillborn86 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Well, breadboards run pretty cheap... And size matters here. Sometimes a smaller board is better, but a large board gives you more room to work with. So I'd recommend getting both! A small board will be nice for smaller projects, but larger boards will be nice for more in-depth prototyping that require more room to work with. And he can always use a small area of a large board when he doesn't need it all... but a large board won't fit into a small boat or airplane if that's what he is doing... So, at a good price, both can be beneficial.

Other than that, he'll need jumpers (male/female), and maybe a ribbon cable. Ribbon cables need a T-board (or equivalent) to connect to the breadboard with, but jumpers just plug into the GPIO pins. With a small breadboard, jumpers are favorable, as they only take up as much space as one pinhole, and they come in many different colors and lengths. A larger board can accommodate a ribbon cable and T-board more readily... a T-board can take up a LOT of space on a small breadboard REALLY quickly.

Word to the wise: if you buy a ribbon cable and T-board, you are going to want to know what type of Pi he has. The original versions had fewer GPIO pins than the B+ and the A+ versions. This means that a larger ribbon cable wouldn't work with the original Pi's. If he has an A or B, a 40 pin cable/T-board wouldn't work as they're designed for the newer B+ and A+. If you need help identifying which board he has, we can help you with a photo or a description of the board...

Also, a resistor kit and a capacitor kit would be good to have, if he doesn't already have them. Most projects require that you use resistors/capacitors somewhere, and the kits usually come with several of the most used resistors/capacitors, which should tie him over for some time.

Then you should get him an LED set. LEDs are nice because they can be used as a "proof of concept" tool. Since everything into and out of the Pi is digital, all you are doing is giving an item voltage. So it doesn't matter if you're using a buzzer, motor, servo, or LED... they will all work interchangeably. He can use an LED to prove that his code and wiring works when the light comes on... then, when it all works, he can swap the LED for a buzzer or something, and everything should still work, just with sound instead of light.

You could also buy him some sort of case, but these aren't always necessary. I don't use on on my Pi, and it works just fine... I just have to make sure I'm not shorting it on anything, or breaking it in some stupid way. These vary so much in design and price, I'll let you search for them instead of providing a link... just remember, like the ribbon cable, cases will obviously depend on the model he has.

Personally, I would stay away from potentiometers and photoresistors since the Pi only has digital inputs. Both of these items would need to be attached as analog items to work properly, and that means buying extra boards for correct functionality. The Raspberry Pi can not natively read analog inputs, so these items would only be frustrating to him since he can't use them without extra parts.

This should get him started in coding and prototyping. If he's looking for motors, servos, or speakers, you can get him those too, but they're not necessary to tinker with a Pi.

There are also kits that offer these items, but they're usually more expensive than they have to be, and they may or may not have everything you're looking for. Also, there are other places to shop for these types of things, but I use Amazon because it was the quickest and easiest place to search for examples of all of these things for this post. If you're smart with your shopping, you can get all of these items for ~$100, and might be able to have them shipped before Christmas... but you're going to have to hurry.

EDIT: Added links since you said you knew "nothing" about these items. This should make searching easier since you can actually see what I'm talking about...

u/2k4s · 2 pointsr/modular

just to expand on my other post because I didn't have all the links at the time. Hopefully this helps others too. Feel free to add to this if there are better solutions than these.

MeanWell RT-65B power supply keep in mind that the -12v rail is only good for 500ma. check your modules in modular grid to make sure you don't need more than one of these power supplies. it's super easy to wire the power supply to a busboard but if you don't feel comfortable doing it you'll have to get something like a Zeus power supply.

Vector rails TS-600 is the best value if you are building a large case or want to build more later or if you want to sell your leftovers on Reverb or whatever. You can use these screws to attach the vector rails to the case or the spacer strips.

Rail nuts these are the square nuts that slide into the rails (only for vector rails) they require M2.5 screws 6mm is a good length unless you have some thick acrylic panels on your modules or something like that. you can alternatively use threaded strips but they will cost a little more and I'm not a fan. Not all modules have their panel holes in the appropriate place and sometimes it causes a problem because the threaded insert holes are fixed in one place.

Panel mount plug w fuse you'll need to do a little wiring on this one. match the fuse value to the power supply overall amp draw. Don't go too much over. the fuse is supposed to blow if too many amps go through the case. Having too large value of fuse defeats the purpose.

I like this busboard and they also have the cheapest (Warning! see edit) 3U sideplates although I don't see why you can make your own or maybe even go without them. MDLRCASE actually has some great values on the larger cases too if you decide not to DIY. If you are in the USA shipping is quite an expense though.EDIT: the 3U side plates do not work for vector rails, they are the wrong spacing. They only work for the rails which they sell which are different. So, if you are using vector rails, don't buy these. The busboards are still cool)

If you decide to go for the flying bus cable

build notes:

Each 3U (height of one eurorack space) is approximately 5.25" (133.35mm) but the modules are mostly less than 130mm tall. so you can build the height of a 3U rack so the the interior dimension from wood to wood is 5 1/4" exactly and you'll be fine.

Don't cut wood until you have your rails and spacers or at least rails and a blank panel or module installed so that you will know the exact width you will need for the rails.

Be aware of the depth of your modules and factor the space for the power supply and busboard. don't make the case too shallow or some modules may not fit. Modulargrid is your friend for this and the power draw.

There will be wall level voltage inside your case, so make sure you route those cables neat and secure them well. Cover them if possible and don't let stray screws and stuff fall in there. If they do, power off and get them out. Use blank panels to cover unused spaces. Obviously power off and unplug when installing modules.









u/jmblock2 · 6 pointsr/santashelpers

Has he applied for any jobs yet? I was given one of those leather pads with paper inside and a holder for resumes (something like this) except it was from my undergrad university with their emblem. Definitely gives you some confidence for interviews and recruiting sessions. Also you can get him some nice resume paper to go with it. That lasted me for years.

I also enjoyed having one or two of these demotivational posters in my room. Depends on his humor and if he has barren walls like I did.

If you know more details about which raspberry pi he has, you could get some shield extensions. These are boards that expand its capabilities. There are also newer boards with better specs. Also with two boards you can of course make them talk to each other ;)

Depends on his area of interest and your budget, but you could get him some kind of [introductory FPGA kit] (http://store.digilentinc.com/fpga-programmable-logic/) or DE0-Nano.

Tools... so many tools he might be interested in. USB logic analyzers are so cheap these days and go well with hobby boards. Again not sure your budget, so you can go all sorts of ranges here (Open Workbench Logic Sniffer or scanaplus or Saleae Logic 8 or a china clone of Saleae Logic 8). Saleae or the knockoff I think are the better options for the software compatibility. He may be in need of a soldering iron or a multimeter.

Something else unique, you could get him a "gift card" (they don't really sell them) or an IOU to a PCB printing service. Ask him to design his own board and you'll pay $X of the service. You'll want to make sure he knows the price structure on the website because they charge per square inch and it depends on his design how many layers he may need. He makes the schematic and they will print some circuit boards for him. They won't mount the parts, just do the schematic and he would have to hand solder the components.

If he likes old videogames you could get him some old school USB controllers and tell him to install lakka on his rasberry pi, or just get him a new Raspberry Pi3 to dedicate it as an old-school console emulator. It is quite impressive how many consoles they have emulated.

And back to more tools... more micro screwdriver bits than you would actually need. You can get him a starter pack of resistors, capacitors, and other assorted electronics sparkfun. There are also so many buttons, switches, LED screen displays, etc. that he probably wouldn't want to buy on his own. Maybe you could get a container with an assortment of circuit components (resistors, capacitors, transistors, and other sensors). Careful! This can add up real quick. All types of sensors exist... ultrasonic rangefinder, stress, photocell, temperature, etc. etc. endless!.

u/captianpicard · 1 pointr/Dynavap

I don’t have WiFi so I’m not going to google search, but I’d be willing to bet google or amazon would have the car plug adapter for mobile ih.
As far as 18650, all I know is it can be done, and without TOO much effort.
With the box I’ve made, I’m going to add a bottom compartment that can be latched on to the bottom, and hold 4 18650’s which should be tons of use.

My best recommendation is YouTube, google, amazon/eBay for parts and going to the forum f***combustion , google search that forum, they have a huge thread on induction diy, as well as vapcap stuff, and there is a user there named pipes, he will sell you ready to go fully built portable and tabletop setups that are legit and very reasonably priced. Building my own I saved maybe 40 bucks, however his are better than what I’m able to cobble together, and for a true portable I’ll be going to him for his Portside mini as it’s the best.
Good luck my guy, I’m in the same boat.

Just order an induction driver with coil, a psu, and a switch of some sort.

SainSmart 5V~12V Zero Voltage Switching ZVS Induction Heating Power Supply Module + Coil Power Supply heating power supply module https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GDVVANA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rWzBCb6KE502R

Out of stock but that’s what I got, there are other sellers it’s all the same unit.

EPBOWPT AC 100-240V to DC 12V 6A... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNW1CNB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This psu works just fine for me, AND it comes with the adapter you will NEED to plug this all into the wall
ESUPPORT Heavy Duty 20A 125V 15A...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZWWZ0GK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This switch is for cars, and rated at 20a.
It’s overkill, but my understanding is a higher amp rated switch removes the need for a mofset which I didn’t wana really wore up. You can also use a momentary switch, so it’s only on if you press it down, but the spring keeps it set at “off” but they aren’t rated at 20a and you will need a mofset.

I just got a wood box and used my drill stuff to make the holes, and hot glue to seal the box so I can open it op fairly easily for repairs and upgrades


u/615wonky · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Start small. It'll save you money, let you get your feet wet, and help you learn how to grow better, and then you can buy bigger.

My "starter package" is:

  • A 2' x 2' x 3' grow tent - $55.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWGYYWO

  • A grow light ($90). I prefer COB's as they're easier to fix than blurples.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I4NY8KW

  • A power strip zip-tied to a pole in the tent. Makes wiring prettier and easier. ($24) I chose a nice metal one, but you can use a cheaper one.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F8ZQYHA

  • Hangers to hold the light ($8)
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0098R0600

  • A fan and filter ($70), and variac ($90) to filter smell and move air to keep things cool. This combo is overkill for this tent, but I ended up using it on later tents so it's a good long-term investment. You can cobble something cheaper together with some work, but this "just works" out of the box.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q2ER5C/
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS

  • 5 gallon Smart Pot ($7) for growing, FoxFarm Ocean Forest Soil ($16.50), Plant saucer ($7) for growing. You can save some money here by shopping around. In particular, Amazon's price for FFOF is about double what I pay at the (very expensive) local "indoor gardening" center.
    https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Pots-5-Gallon-Soft-Sided-Container/dp/B002JUOWB2
    https://www.amazon.com/FoxFarm-FX14053-12-Quart-Organic-Potting/dp/B001I49Q98
    https://www.lowes.com/pd/Garden-Treasures-15-31-in-Rust-Plastic-Plant-Saucer/50445000

  • Go Box Plant Nutrients. This should last you several grows.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PS4B08

  • Seed of your choice (let's say $10).

    So for about $420 (heh), you can get your foot in the door and start growing. This is a nice setup too, you can probably save $100 by shopping around, buying used, or doing-it-yourself. I've left off a few odds and ends like dryer duct, Fiskers for trimming, weed fabric pins for low-stress training, pitcher for watering, Mason jars for storage, but you can likely find those or suitable replacements around the house without spending money.

    I also have a Raspberry Pi 3 ($43) with Sense Hat ($37) and metal case ($15) in each of my grow tents to log temperature/humidity and other things. I'm interested in eventually using the GPIO functionality to water my plants too. Not critical, but definitely a nice thing to have, especially if you're the hacker type. If you go this route, you might look at raspiviv.com too.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C6FFNY4
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014HDG74S
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722L338Q

    I'm glad I bought a good intro setup because I still use it now that I've upgraded. I now have a 3' x 3' GG Shorty tent with HLG 300 LED for flower, a 2' x 2.5' GG Shorty tent with two 400W Roleadro COB's for veg, and my "intro package" is now my germination/cloning tent (and drying tent too since several people suggested that too). Being able to have three tents (germination -> veg -> flower) working simultaneously is increasing my output quite sharply. I'm doing this to help a relative with cancer, so you may not need to go quite as crazy as I did.

    You mentioned using 35+ gs (~1.25 oz) a month. You probably aren't going to be able to grow that much given the constraints of tent size and light wattage (plus being a first-time grower! You'll learn a lot!). So once you get used to it, you'll probably want to buy more stuff. Marijuana isn't addictive, but growing marijuana absolutely is.

    Once you've got your hardware, the variable cost is seed (~$10), soil (~$5), nutrients (~$20), and electricity (~$30). From that, I'm going to estimate you can grow ~1.5 ozs (you can do more as you learn more though). So you're looking at ~$40/oz after you've made the initial hardware investment.

    Hope this helps. Depression, cancer, and everything else can just go suck it.
u/AGentlemanWalrus · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

ALRIGHT! Sorry for just getting back to you I've been trying to reply and mobile and kept accidentally deleting what i typed while trying to format my response. So had to move to the Laptop.

Anyways when I say you should repaste I'm referring to the action of removing the heatsink from the CPU and GPU clearing the provided "thermal paste/grease" (thermal paste or grease depending to who you talk to is a thermally conductive paste that is meant to be between the CPU/GPU and the heatsink to fill the airgap and conduct heat to the sink better.) from both and applying new paste. Here is also a video guide on how to apply thermal paste it doesn't pertain specifically to your laptop but gives you a good idea on how its done.

Now when it comes to your device I took the liberty of looking up the service manual and found a video guide on how to disassemble down the the motherboard here. If you've never done anything like this before it can be a little daunting, but if you have a friend with some experience it shouldn't be more than a few hours project and the outcome should be considerably better than before.

If you are going to go this route there are a few thermal pastes that everyone recommends and everyone has their own opinions but as I stated before any of these will be better than what you originally had so buy whatever fits your budget.

Artic Silver 5

IC-Diamond

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

Prolimatech PK-3

There are plenty of others but any of these will do you good, with a major recommendation to the Silver 5 due to bang for the buck.

After all that and you decide that maybe you don't want to do a repaste (and even if you did repaste I'm still recommending this) you are going to want to get a laptop cooling pad. The reason is due to the nature of laptops and how compact they are sometimes depending on the surface they are laid on they do not get enough air to cool properly, dropping your performance into the shitter. I have a similarly spec'd laptop to yours (Lenovo Y50 4700hq and 860m) and I use the Notepal XSlim its not the best but it does the job and for $18 I can't complain. There are others but buy what feels right to you.

Sorry for the long winded post I hope this helps you some, and I hope you can get your laptop performance back as you have a more than capable laptop. Let me know if you need anything else!

u/goldfingeroo7 · 8 pointsr/RetroPie

I wanted to show off an arcade cabinet that my brother in-law and I built.

Imgur Gallery

We designed the cabinet in 3d to make sure everything would fit. Then cut out everything using a CNC router. We used wood glue and wood putty to put everything together. For the monitor we used a Dell 17" (we had lying around) mounted portrait. The guts of the arcade are

  • Internal PC fans used for cooling. We did this because the monitor would get a little warm after playing. Plus it couldn't hurt. Not too loud either.
  • Speakers are from an old kiosk that we were throwing away at work. I did look at some other solutions but since I already had them and they were powered, we decided on using them. It also helped that the size matched the PC fans so the hole pattern would look nice on the side
  • Buttons and Joysticks were purchased from [Amazon].(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WDQWK5M/)
  • We used a Raspberry Pi 3 purchased from Amazon.
  • For power, we took a power strip and removed the plug and bought (this power socket)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/] from Amazon. Soldered the connections from the power strip to the power socket.
  • Still waiting on the custom piece of tempered glass that will go on the top.
  • It's got 2 coats of stain and a couple of coats of polyurethane to protect the wood.

    In all it took us a couple of weeks to design in 3D. My brother in-law did all this work. He also cut out everything and assembled the shell. I did all the internal wiring and software side of things. It is running RetroPie 4.0.2. The only really PITA is that this is a cocktail arcade. Most if not all the games needed a custom shader to correctly implement the rotation and dual flipped screens. A big shout out to hunterk from (libretro.com)[http://libretro.com] forums for helping me with this. It turns out that NES, SNES, Arcade, etc... needed their own shader to correctly display the image to both users. Also, the mame emulator has the ability on some 2 player games, to set cocktail mode. That way, when it is the 2 players turn, the screen auto rotates so they can play on their side.

    We were pretty impressed with ourselves when we finished. We built it to give away at a foundation raffle a couple of weeks ago and the winner was very excited to win it.

    I'll be glad to answer any questions you guys/girls have about the build. I plan on putting the glsl shaders on my github so others using the RetroPie OS in cocktail mode can use them.
u/AndroidDev01 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Sorry if there are formatting errors and such I am on mobile.


Basics

You should really consider a better HUB/products if you want this level of automation. You are going to want an offline hub such as Vera or Homeseer (what I use). Homeseer I know will interface with the echo Vera should. Hubs like wink/SmartThings end up not working when...

  1. Your router doesn't work
  2. Your ISP's connection drops
  3. Hub's service provider (AWS most likely) goes down
  4. Hub cloud service doesn't work or needs maintenance
  5. Random outages/problems

    Similarly, you should NOT get a nest (or EcoBee). I have a nest and while I love the design it is fickle. I would instead recommend a z-wave thermostat. With a z-wave thermostat you can do almost everything nest can (no auto scheduling). Already Purchased

     

    You should seriously consider a different HUB

    Dimmers and Wall Switches


    Here is a good place to start. Lutron dimmers are fantastics although they can be a bit pricy (I don't think you mentioned a budget...). Other options include the GE 12724 for dimming if you want to go z-wave over Lutron. And, the GE 12722 for regular on/off. Or Homeseer is releasing new switches soon that look fantastic (Also z-wave)!

    Here's some more info. 1 2 3 4

    Garage Opener


    Chamberlain is great!

    Security


    If you cannot change/return your system that fine but I would recommend a DSC power series system as they almost universally integrate with automation systems Homeseer has a plugin as does Vera.

    Audio


    Sonos is fine. It can be controlled via Homeseer/Vera (Think announcements). Or you can get an Echo Dot and connect it to the sonos connect via an audio cable. GET a WHA controller (Check the Outdoor speaker section for recommendations)

    Front Door Cam/Doorbell


    Either Doorbird a doorbell and camera (expensive) or a normal doorbell with an IP camera with motion record. The integrated solution is better but of course more expensive. If you end up with IP cameras you should consider Hikvison they seem to make the best cameras for the money.

    Outdoor Light

    Just install the smart switch of your choice.

    Fan's

    Not sure sorry. :-( GE has a fan controlling switch but I doubt it would work as you mention remotes...

    Under Cabinet Lighting

    Hue lightstips, Aeon lightstrips or a WIFI / Z-wave LED controller with regular strips. (Will edit later with links)

    Outdoor Speakers

    The Daytons are fine you could also go with Yamaha NS-AW150. For integration you could connect them to the MONOPRICE 6 Zone Controller and AMP. You could also connect the Sonos CONNECT to the monopice and have outdoor audio + sonos audio and send audio to any other zones you have!



     

    PM me or comment if you need any more info :-)

     

    *Will edit and add more info when I get to a keyboard.

u/kiwiandapple · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Sorry for the late reply, got a bit busy last night and worked on this for a few hours.

I will explain my changes in detail in a reply to this post. Since I went over the 10.000 character limit reddit provides per post.

So I tried to get the black & orange vibe as best as possible, without overdoing it.
I've included custom cables, the price is a slight estimate. To get the best possible looks on them, I would recommend to go the extra mile and measure the cables their length and adjust accordingly. This will make your build pop the extra mile and just look super crisp. More details down below!

I'll also provide my standard list of videos that explain certain hardware terminologies & guides. As well as stress test software!

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core Processor | £599.94 @ AWD-IT
CPU Cooler | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler | £72.38 @ Amazon UK
Thermal Paste | Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut | £6.15 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard | Asus ROG Strix X570-F Gaming ATX AM4 Motherboard | £257.89 @ Amazon UK
Memory | G.Skill Trident Z Royal 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | £348.59 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | £410.42 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Seagate Barracuda Compute 4 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | £89.99 @ Amazon UK
Video Card | Asus GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB ROG Strix Gaming OC Video Card | £1265.41 @ Amazon UK
Case | be quiet! Silent Base 801 ATX Mid Tower Case | £129.99 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply | SeaSonic PRIME Ultra Platinum 750 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply | £187.76 @ Amazon UK
Custom Cables | 24pin ATX, 8+4pin EPS, 2x8pin PCIe | £101.80 @ Octix
Case Fan | Fractal Design AL-14 PWM 103.85 CFM 140 mm Fan | £29.32 @ Amazon UK
Monitor | Acer Predator X34P 34.0" 3440x1440 120 Hz Monitor | £899.99 @ Amazon UK
Monitor | Acer Predator X34P 34.0" 3440x1440 120 Hz Monitor | £899.99 @ Amazon UK
Monitor Arm | NB North Bayou Monitor TV Wall Mount Bracket | £29.90 @ Amazon UK
Cable Sleeve | Cable Management Sleeve – Rantizon 19.7" | £7.99 @ Amazon UK
Mousepad | Sidorenko Gaming Extended Mouse Mat - 900 x 400 mm | £10.99 @ Amazon UK
| NAS |
NAS | Synology DS918+ | £503.99 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Red 8 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | £213.35 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Red 8 TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive | £213.35 @ Amazon UK
| Total | £6355.64
| Generated by Kiwiandapple |

u/huhthatscool · 3 pointsr/aeroponics

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

u/LBriar · 2 pointsr/diypedals

It depends on the component. Resistors and caps usually either work or not, and even really cheap sets tend to be within rated tolerances. I just buy the cheapest sets of those that have the values I want.

Transistors and ICs will depend on what you're getting. Common and still produced values are cheap and easy to get. Again, just buy whatever's cheap and gets you what you need. Watch out for fakes or seconds when buying out-of-production parts like 308s or 3007s. Best to get those from reputable places (smallbear, Mammoth, etc), because they're expensive and it's easy to get burned. I'd really look at the values you're getting when ordering ICs and possibly transistors in bulk. Those parts are usually really specific to a build and buying a lot of values might leave you with a bunch of unused parts.

The Joe Knows sets are good, if a little expensive. They tend to be well sorted, which is nice, but not something I'm willing to pay more for. Like this set of resistors is going to be just as good and is significantly cheaper than the equivalent Joe Knows set. There's certainly nothing wrong with the Joe Knows stuff though - if it has the values you need at the right price, go for it.

You can also score some great bulk deals on ebay and alibaba, but you'll be stuck waiting for overseas shipping a lot of the time. I'd go Amazon for an initial order and then shop around when you refill.

u/Bugos19 · 1 pointr/electronics
  • I can't recommend a better book than this one.
  • Get this resistor kit. Seriously, I bought one of these a year ago and I've never once had to buy more resistors.
  • You're going to need a capacitor set like this one.
  • You're also going to need a breadboard.
  • Make a trip to Maplin and get an assortment pack of LEDs and a few switches. Trust me, this will make your life a tons easier when it comes to making proof of concept or test circuits. And they make circuitry more interactive and fun!
  • Lastly, get a cheap multimeter. You can get one at Maplin or somewhere similar for like <15 pounds.

    Sorry about the links, I'm in the US so the prices will be in USD but that shouldn't be a problem. I really hope you find this hobby as intriguing as I do, I started a year ago making little flashlights and what-not and now I'm making motion detectors and all kinds of cool gadgets. If you'd like some guidance or help, don't think twice about PMing me! Best of luck.
u/throwawayCG48 · 6 pointsr/microgrowery

First grow.

This took 2-3 months. Seems like I ran into a number of first-timer pitfalls along the way. Good learning experience though.

Can't wait. So god damn tired of shady, undependable hook ups.


Edit 2:

Photos of my setup.

u/Search11 · 2 pointsr/intel

Valid concerns but trust me it’s a breeze to do. Given how hot your CPU gets you will benefit from a proper delid. Granted though you are still within safe temps. The temps are highish but they aren’t abnormal compared to most others. Higher temps do lessen the life of the CPU but we are talking a very small time span compared to the market life of the chip. I’d say you and 99% of all PC builders will have build a second or even third computer before silicone degradation even reaches minimal levels. If that makes sense. Yeah high temps kill it but it’s like saying the three cigarettes you smoked in high school took two minutes off your life when you live to be a hundred anyway. Analogy might be to the extreme but I wouldn’t worry about it.

With that said here’s some links that will help you.

Delid tool and re attachment tool:

https://rockitcool.myshopify.com

Plastic razor blades to remove stock glue (what you mentioned not knowing what to do with, yes remove it the easiest way I’ve done it was using these and a small amount of isopropyl alcohol):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D6EXLR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nvYleOEGfw2EO

Silicone “glue” for IHS re attachment. To be honest the very first delid I did was a 3570k using wood a vice and a hammer and I didn’t reglue it. It’s still alive too. I would personally just use a very small amount on the four corners. Just enough to stick. You are correct in your concern about the stock glue causing the IHS to not make perfect contact with the die. Remove the stock crap and use minimal amount of this and it will be a non concern:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2g9BJXXKzhp9F

Lastly, your liquid metal for the die to IHS and your TIM for the IHS to Kraken. You can use any but it’s probably safe to say Grizzly is currently the go to stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6QNoes1d24uyu

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lBeHQg1WHWPGP



All in all it’s easy and it’s worth it. If you have any questions whatsoever message me or reply here. There are some good videos of walkthroughs (I think one really good one is on rockitcool’s website but I’m not sure). I can find them for you but tomorrow as I’m currently in bed and using a half open eye lid to write this.

u/Crosive · 1 pointr/buildapc

you don't have to, but with the stuff being so cheap, why risk it?

the best I've used is this
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=23R7QMLQ9U6KE&coliid=ISZDLEI3Q9A7F

I've noticed a few degrees difference over arctic silver, and have since used it on all my builds.

there are better solutions out there such as coolaboratory liquid ultra. But I wouldn't recommend that stuff to just anyone as it's not simply applied and done, it takes prep that possibly voids warranties, and you can't use it on aluminum.

having said that, I've seen better numbers with the liquid ultra than anything else, by a significant amount.

the next best being the kryonaut.

if anyone has anything better, I'm all ears. I'm always up for finding new and better stuff to try.

u/lenolium · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

For a display I am using this: i2c 7-segment display, and if you are grabbing the display you can't use the Spark Core relay board because they use the lines that are setup for i2c to control relays instead.

So the total bill of materials for my build is:

  • Spark Core

  • that display

  • temp sensor (I have 2, so I can read temps of both fermenters or fermenter/fridge)

  • relay board

  • sacrificial extension cord

  • electrical box & project box

  • electrical plug

  • some breadboard connection wires

  • Fridge

  • Heater

    I don't believe you can get a local spark cloud server going, but the beauty of it is that you don't have to. You can just use their cloud service for free and be able to read variables and run registered functions securely and remotely without any issues. How I have it set is so that the spark core by default won't control the temp but can be given a command to set the temp and then it will just hold that temp until a new command comes in. So far it has been holding my fermenter to within a degree and switching between temps nice and quickly. I am very pleased, but still want the BrewBlogger integration so I can setup what temp I want at what time and to record and graph the temps. By next week I should be pushing some code up to github, so I'll PM you then and give you a link.

    You could easily run BrewBlogger off of a Pi if you didn't have another place to run it, but it's just a PHP website that would need a scheduled task to run to fetch temps.
u/d_dubya · 1 pointr/CR10

I actually just ordered this inductive sensor from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1777XK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . In the reviews someone used it with success on our machine and said it was a significant improvement. Looks like an easy install by cutting and splicing the wires near the sensor. Seems like many people have success with this.

​

I'll check out the tinymonsters firmware, that also seems to be pretty popular. Is there any functional difference? Or is it just better behind the scenes?

u/callmejeremy · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Ahhh, well since you give me a great link to the molding side of it, maybe I can help you on the controller side.

Fibaro RGBW Micro Controller Z-wave, Works with RGB/RGBW LED Strips

Now, I know what you'll think, because I thought it too - $70 for a dinky Z-Wave LED light controller? WTF?!

But it's actually so much more. Besides DC in (BTW, it takes 12 or 24volts, too) & Ground there's "IN1", "IN2", "IN3", "IN4", "R", "G", "B", "W". And the manual is odd too. You connect the LEDs up, then you have to wire switches into it too, etc etc - I haven't totally figured it out, but it's kinda neat. Also you can get it running on SmartThings. I've just migrated from ST to Home Assistant with a Aeotec Z-Wave stick and a deConz Zigbee stick.

The 4 "IN"s can be used for multiple sensors - which I might have to give a shot.

Anyway, what I've done is hookup 2 light strips to the controller - one is RGB, the other cold white (It's what I have at hand, and I like the color reproduction etc etc, haven't played with many RGBW lights). I typically use a white LED strip with 60 LEDs/meter, and then the RGB is 120 LEDs/meter.

You can control almost an unlimited number of strips with the one Fibaro controller - the secret is to add in RGB LED Amplifiers when the colors start going wonky. Honestly, they're cheap enough I do it between every set of LEDs I intend to connect together.

In testing, I found I like the look for the RGB LEDs closer to the wall, and then the White strip.

So there you go - hope I didn't confuse you there, trying to bang this out and get back to running ethernet throughout the house. Let me know if you have any questions.

u/tatanka01 · 1 pointr/vaporents

Yes -- they work well and are pretty simple to make. Here is the heating module. It runs on 12 Volts DC and the rest is really just how you package it. A lot of people put a glass tube inside the coil which is probably a good idea. Add a pushbutton or something to turn it on and off. The little heater can draw about 6.5 amps, so that's what the above discussion was about. Lightweight switches won't handle the 6.5 amps. I've run it off three 18650 batteries in series and it works fine - a little slower to heat, but my battery pack only puts out about 3 amps.

The heating module converts the 12 Volts DC to about 70 Volts AC at 200KHz to power the coil. I'd consider it a shock hazard when it's powered on. Never tested it, but I bet if you touch it right, it'll bite you. So, good idea to put it all in a nice box or something.

Seems common to use a glass slide for a guitar for the glass piece, but I've found that the replacement glass for a cloutank M3 is a better fit. The glass slide works, it's just bigger than it needs to be.

Haven't used a torch with the Dynavap in eons. It doesn't seem to need cleaning as often, either. 😊

​

ETA: The diagram says 20A minimum for the switch. I'd say 10A is plenty. My measurements say you're unlikely to ever draw 7 amps.

u/Thomcat316 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Ditch the converter for a NOCO battery charger/maintainer. You will thank yourself later. This one does fine with a 55Ah AGM battery. Also, don't use a wet cell battery unless it's in its own box outside the trailer.

I like your fuse block. I fused the battery feed to mine at 30A, and sized the wire accordingly - 10AWG boat cable would be perfect. All the fuses in my Blue Sea Systems fuse block are 10A and under.

Grab some LED voltmeters and mount one inside and one near your fuses. And one in your car, and....

Unless you need a separate distro bus, I'd skip that. I am using Wago 221-415 connectors as mini bus bars as needed - run a wire from the fuse panel into the cabin, then up to four additional circuits from that point - lights, etc.

You will find that your main switch panel is less functional than you hoped it would be. I recently removed mine. Individual switches at point of contact are much more user-friendly.

We loved our Fantastic Fan, and I've heard great things about Maxx Fans, but we went back to a solid roof with vent fans in the galley bulkhead.

Multicolored LED strips are fun! We are currently installing two circuits of them in the galley. When you set yours up, make sure you install a controller with non-remote controls. We have had some of the remotes fail, and at least one of them couldn't be replaced. Superbright LEDs currently has a stunning deal on one that fit our needs.

LED strip channels are a good idea. Also get the long clips, which hang on to the channel better.

Your under-cabinet lighting is probably on a 12V wall-wart. Cut it off and hook the LED strips right into your 12V system.

For wiring, get a spool each of 22AWG, 18AWG and 14AWG tinned copper cable; molded cable (lamp cord style) is acceptable. We have used Wiremold NMW1 raceway and surface mount boxes to keep things simple and tidy. Where things turn corners we leave the wires exposed instead of going nuts with the corner and tee fittings.

u/crippledlemming · 1 pointr/Reprap

As a fellow Mac user, who also has a prusa mendel; I would highly recommend you use OctoPrint + a Raspberry Pi 3. This may not be a just starting out configuration but it makes life a lot easier in controlling the printer.

I use Slic3r for Mac configured to talk to the OctoPrint server through an API call, and I can send gcode to my printer across the network from the Slic3r application. With the RPi camera installed I can keep an eye on my prints without having to be in the same room.

Also you may be happier with:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This PSU is a bit cheaper than your standard ATX PSU, it may be a good choice if you're looking to try this hobby out as cheaply as possible. It is a more difficult way of going because you will need to print something like:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:199089

To keep live 120VAC from being exposed on your bench.

Path of least resistance to getting started:

Slic3r > Repetier Host or PronterFace or Cura > Printer

The best way I've found (easiest):

Slic3r > OctoPrint

Seeing as I have the same printer and host OS configuration, feel free to DM me and I'll answer any questions you may have.

u/Neur0nauT · 1 pointr/RDR2

To be honest, I stopped using Afterburner. I was noticing weird power and heating issues. Now I just use the Adrenalin in-game menu (Alt-R) to change Wattman settings and other things if I want to. And the in-game overlay to monitor temp and FPS (Ctrl+Shift+O) Generally I haven't even been overclocking anything. Just using Chill. IT makes a "boopy-beep" noise when it is enabled. If you use Chill...make sure to disable vsync. I had the same issue as you with certain games when using Afterburner and messing about with some overclocking and power tweaks, so it might be worth uninstalling it, and doing a full clean of your AMD drivers with DDU then get the latest version. I've lerned that Afterburner doesn;t really work well alongside Wattman on the Adrenalin drivers.

DDU download on Guru3d

Make sure you are using Vulkan as the API in game, and try lowering the resolution scale to 90% also. This will look blurry, but it might tell you if your GPU is just being pushed too much to handle things.

I also use a program called AIDA 64 which has a desktop gadget which gives me on screen display of all my temps, fan speeds, CPU/GPU speed, memory use etc. This can be displayed on my second screen. The AMD overlay works just as well for the GPU at least. Note: the FPS counter only seems to display when in fullscreen mode.

So in summary.... try getting rid of Afterburner and reinstall your AMD drivers. Keep Ambient Occlusion off. Consider re-pasting your GPU. Its probably out of warranty by now anyway and it really helps.

Video on re-pasting

Thermal Grizzly on Amazon

Thermal Paste Cleaner on Amazon

Good Luck!

u/F41LUR3 · 2 pointsr/wow

Cheap option, get this (might be a tight squeeze, requires removing the side panel fan): https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI

Best option, get this (also requires removing that side panel fan, but might be a tiny bit easier to fit in as it's 2mm shorter): https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U12S-Premium-Cooler-NF-F12/dp/B00C9EYVGY

unless you don't want to remove the side-panel fan at all, then get this, still great cooling: https://www.amazon.com/noctua-Premium-Cooler_Retail-Cooling-NH-C14S

It would also be helpful to know your motherboard model to check the compatibility list. But I'm fairly certain these coolers should fit regardless.

They include decent thermal paste, but the FX8350 is one of the hotter chips and it might be worthwhile to squeeze a few extra degrees out with this paste: https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

u/JonSAlberta · 2 pointsr/GPDPocket

Hi
I would not adjust your Bios settings without giving the CPU better cooling.

I used Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Grease Paste. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011F7W3LU

with

Fujipoly smart Extreme X-e Thermal Pad 11.0 W/mK https://www.amazon.com/Fujipoly-mod-smart-Extreme-Thermal/dp/B00ZSJQX0E I put 2 layers of 1mm thermal pads on the heat pipe from above the CPU to halfway to the fan.

For the thermal pads I followed the general idea in this https://imgur.com/a/uAzmc#CsPVeRf

My pads are close to this pattern:
https://i.imgur.com/CsPVeRf.jpg
I used larger pads directly over the CPU. The pad over the Fan discharge is intended to stop air from leaking around the copper cooling fins but the joint already had tight tolerances in my laptop so I used those pads around the CPU instead.

I followed the instructions on this post to adjust the bios:

https://www.reddit.com/r/GPDPocket/comments/6s7zck/my_unlocked_bios_working_settings_dptf_limit/

Although I set my temp limits at 80C instead of 85C. Not that it matters with the cooling I have I can't get the CPU above 70C even running the Prime 95 stress tests for 30 minutes.

I hope this helps. You don't need the exact brand of paste or pads I used, I just included them in case anyone was curious.

I also tried 2 other kids of pads but they don't stick to a surface so I did not like using them. (Phobya Thermal Pad XT 7W/mk and Fujipoly 17.0 W/mK pad)

I should give credit; the thermal pad post was by ZiggyDeath and the BIOS settings were by neoak.

I am please with the way my system has worked out. I hope you are pleased with yours.

Have a good one.

Jon

u/sheldor90 · 2 pointsr/roasting

Personally I got a 301 and wish I would have gotten a 304... wish I would have made my ET a probe and not a dial gauge. I run it with artisan, but it’s nice knowing if something happens with the comp you can still roast if you want to. I also feel like there is a little lag in the computer so I glance at the thermometer from time to time.

I got an extra motor without the case as a backup ($20)

And https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XKDEVIQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Works like a charm

I went to 3 hardware stores before I realized there are inside and outside threads on the regulator to the propane tank... so you’re good there, I’m just dumb I guess

Lastly I highly recommend getting one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006NGI8VS?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Happy roasting :)

u/aesthetics247 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Don't forget a speed controller! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

this one's highly recommended and people say it helps reduce the humming on the inline fan compaerd to cheaper speed controllers.

I'm sure the apollo tents are fine, I've heard slightly better reviews for the vivosun tents. This one's about $12 more than yours i think. https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Horticulture-Hydroponic-Obeservation-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1478889774&sr=1-2&keywords=vivosun+48

The Mars 300 is chill for the price, you probably want to want to get a second one if you're going to have multiple plants in that tent. People say 1 mars 300 per plant should get you good results, almost pushing it with two full plants under a single mars 300.

Also if and when possible, try to invest in a good pH meter. everyone recommends bluelabs! https://www.amazon.com/Bluelab-Ultimate-Solution-Measuring-Temperature/dp/B008R7OWJS/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1478889906&sr=1-3&keywords=bluelabs+ph+pen

I didn't PH at first and my plants were dying on me... turns out my tap PH was above 7.0 ph. the PH pen saved grow!

u/HelpDesk7 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.

I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.

These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.

Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.

One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.

The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.

The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.

That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.

Good luck!

u/wietoolow · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I have about 4 different locations with these LED strip lighting. I use Cat 6 cable to do the runs. For example many of my LED strips are RGBW so you need 5 wires to make them work. Well cat 6 or even 5 as you know has 8 wires nice solid core stuff that is easy to solder. I've even contemplated using a patch panel as a DC distribution point and using RJ connector but have not done that yet since I'm pretty much done adding LEDs. BTW old desktop power supplies make great 12 volt power sources. As a controllers I use this with my Veralite system.

I'd run some 12 volt tot he kitchen for sure for under cabinet lights. Stair ways are also a nice touch

u/PicoReef · 1 pointr/PicoReef

I've decided to mod the stock LED light that comes with the Fluval Spec V. I know I'm going to need to upgrade to something with more power eventually, but in the meantime I wanted to do some experimenting. I ordered a color assortment of 5mm LED's from amazon for like $2 and I plan on replacing some of the daylight white LED's with a mixture of blue and Violet. I want to see if a low light coral can live under the stock light with this mod. I'm hoping that the blue and violet LED's will provide a better spectrum of light for the coral to photosynthesize even if the wattage output is crap. I believe these 5mm LED's are .07 watts each. There are 37 LED's total -27 on the daylight switch and 10 on the moonlight switch. I'm interested to see what combination will look best. I think I will start with 12 White, 8 blue, 7 violet. Or maybe 14W, 7B, 6V. I will be adding pictures of the process and final result as soon as the LED's arrive.

TL;DR I thought it would be interesting to see what effect I can produce with the stock light with some cheap LED's and a test of my soldering skills before I decide to buy a retrofit kit with 3 watt LED's that cost $70+

u/Absentee23 · 1 pointr/microgrowery

The iPower fans seem to be junk. Here's the one I bought: a 6" Hydrofarm, 400CFM (actually an ActiveAir brand fan). Much better than the 175 the ipower 6" was pushing.

It's loud at full blast, and probably more than you need. This is good though, because you can get a speed controller to turn it down. The fan gets much quieter even at 75%, and I run mine at less than 50% to cool my small cab w/aircooled 400w HPS. You can get this speed controller if you don't mind a slightly annoying electric hum from your fan (I have this and sleep in the room with it at night), or you could get the more expensive variac controller that eliminates this hum (and probably helps your fan last longer too).

The centrifugal inline fans are much more powerful than the axial booster fans, and will force air through a carbon filter easily, so get one that is sized correctly for the fan. (heres mine, sized for that hydrofarm/activeair fan)

I keep a steady 78º-79ºF in the cabinet (2.5'x1.5'x4' grow space) with 75º-77ºF ambient room temps, and the air exhausted right back into the room (central air keeping the room at 76ºF helps).

u/Oshham · 1 pointr/arduino

I tried my first project controlling a high power and current fan and it went great, until it didn't.

Basically I hooked up an Arduino Nano to control a 5v relay that controls a high power relay/contactor. The contactor controlled a 120VAC 15A fan, and turned it on or off when a window was open or closed. It worked perfectly and I called it a night.

Next morning I found that the magnetic sensor fell off the window (sending the "Turn the fan on" signal) and the fan was on as expected. But when the sensor was reinstalled the fan remained on when it shouldnt have. Even resetting the arduino did not interrupt the current to the fan.

This lead me to believe that the 5v relay has failed in the ON position, because this is the only way the contactor and fan would still have power.

Can anyone suggest a more reliable 5v input relay that can provide power to the electromagnet inside the contactor? I've looked at SSRs as being more reliable, and https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/ixys-integrated-circuits-division/CPC1706Y/CPC1706Y-ND/3077519 is one that I think is appropriate, any other suggestions?

5v relay
(https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B073HX1DK2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Contactor
(https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B001KGSJ74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

u/GWT430 · 1 pointr/thinkpad

Yes I have! I did that when I swapped out an I5-3230m for an I7-3540m.

This is a good quality video is for the T420.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=imfeQpGdBCs

It's a pretty similar model. The disassembly is the hard part, you've got to take the palm rest and keyboard off. Be gentle with them, there is a ribbon cable connecting them, and if you rip it you are screwed. Both of the ribbon connections just pop off, with a quick pull right on the connector.

I suggest Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut for your paste. If you are going through the trouble of taking your laptop apart, you might as well get the best stuff available. It seems like this is always at the top of the heap for the non-conductive thermal pastes, and if you are only buying one tube, then the price difference is ~5$, which is pretty insignificant in my opinion.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504491257&sr=8-1&keywords=thermal+grizzly+kryonaut

I upgraded to the fastest dual core in this generation and noticed a slight difference. If you are going to spend the money to upgrade the processor, just go get yourself one of the hotter quad cores to make it worth your time. Of course if you do this, pick up the dGPU heat sink and fan, as they are rated for 45W as opposed to 35w. With that heat sink I've seen people get 80c on the hottest quad cores in the generation.

u/xJGVx · 3 pointsr/Dell

Apex on battery.

I have all Dell and Intel software enabled and up to date except for Dell Support Assist(unistalled because it was re-installing SmartByte), SmartByte, Killer Network and Rivet services are all stopped and disabled.

CPU/GPU was re-pasted with this.

Current CPU UV, your mileage may vary.

GPU OC/UV @0.700mV, 2nd lowest performance state.

GPU OC/UV Highest Performance State @0.813mV, it says @1733mhz but in reality GPU sits @1721mhz, this will greatly reduce GPU temps and since the heatsink is shared that includes the CPU as well.

Extra Sauce when playing plugged. Helps with random shutdowns and BSODs.

At all times even on battery, my own preference.

This is all on the latest BIOS, i've always updated it.

My max CPU temps hover between low 80c to mid 70's depending on game while the CPU sits @3.9GHz and GPU barely hits 72c at a room temp of ~34c. Tropical humid weather may simulate yours since you are indian?(wild guess sorry if your not and it's offensive D:).

Bonus round:

My laptop came with the AUO panel and it's OC'ed to 108hz LCD Reduced.

I barely use the Realtek's sound drivers, mainly use a wireless headset and bluetooth for speakers, to cope with the DPC latency issues.

Download HWInfo64 and keep an eye on the m.2 ssd and the PCH temp. Those can alter performance plugged or unplugged.

m.2 ssd heatsink link if needed.

This is not necessary but i had to do this, Dell's fault. MAY VOID WARRANTY.

If i can help with anything else, lemme know.

​

Edit: some fixes and clarity.

u/bobdole776 · 1 pointr/pcgaming

FYI, on a good air cooler (not stock), you should easily hit near 5ghz, which will bump your score up a ton. The 6k series intels were pretty good quality.

This is the best thermal paste on the market right now and if you use it will help keep temps lower than standard paste. If you want to go past 5ghz, you will either have to delid or get a AIO water cooler.

u/the_real_sasquatch · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Its very easy to wire these up. The first image at this link shows a good way to wire them. To do it that way, you need 10 Wago 221-415 lever nuts.

You can use thermal tape to attach the strips to your aluminum frame, if you don't want to drill a bunch of holes. That makes it a little easier to assemble.

Definitely do it yourself. If you have any questions, post them on here, or in the forums on LEDBuilder.com, and someone will help you get it wired up.

When I said "not much room for error", I meant that if one or two strips get disconnected, the driver will deliver more power to the remaining strips than their max rating. That is very unlikely to happen. So, don't worry about it much. Just make sure all your connections are good before you power it up.

u/Leggo0 · 9 pointsr/ElectricalEngineering

These are parts I use consistently in my labs
Capacitor kit


Resistor kit


Jumper wires


Bread board(s)


Larger breadboard. Recommended for larger projects but I haven’t used it too much. Best for large IC circuits


Multimeter. This has all the right features

Other things that can be useful:


•Wire strippers


•Pliers


•Electrical Tape


•Tackle Box or tool bag (to carry everything)


Flat jumper wires


As you get into classes you’ll need specific parts (transistors, logic gates etc) but this should get you started. I use the things I linked in every lab weekly.

Feel free to message me with any questions.

u/Lucian151 · 1 pointr/hobbycnc

Hi everyone! If you liked the electronics enclosure you can download the design files here -

  • https://grabcad.com/library/3-4-axis-cnc-electronics-enclosure-1
  • https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2756470

    And here's the part list!

    QUANTITY | COMPONENT NAME | LINK / COMMENT
    :---------:|----------|----------
    1 | 7I76-5I25 PLUG-N-GO KIT | http://store.mesanet.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=215
    1 | DROK LM2596 Analog Control Step-down Regulator Module | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019RKVMKU
    1 | DC Fan (120mm x 120mm x 25mm 24V) | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBPQMXW
    1 | Mesh Dust Filter for 120mm Fan | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0A2UH0
    3 | DIN Rail | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E4EIOK
    1 | IEC320 Inlet Power Socket | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/
    4 | KL-5056 Stepper Motor Driver - 32 bit DSP Based | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O6DC8PW
    1 | Emergency Stop Button Switch | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094GM004
    25ft | 4 Pin Cable | www.ebay.com/itm/20M-4-Pin-5050-3528-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Wire-Extension-Connector-Cable-Cord-Line-/282110056592?hash=item41af11d890
    1 | Antek Linear Power Supply - 500W 30V 16A Peak 25A With Passive Filters / EMI-RFI Filters and Suppressors | https://www.ebay.com/itm/PS-5N30-500W-30V-16A-Peak-25A-Stepper-Motor-Antek-Linear-Power-Supply-/371664502398?hash=item5688ee3e7e
    3 | Wall Outlets from Home Depot | Find ones you like / feel are safe enough using
    16ft | Led Strip Lights | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GJ3O0J8/
    1 | Misc. Hardware | Nuts, Bolts, Standoffs, Crimp Connectors, Spare Fuses, 2 Extra Limit Switches
    2 | Ogrmar SSR-25 DA Solid State Relay with Heat Sink | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FT4VXB/
    1 | 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook-Up Wire Kit | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51OO7Q
    ~30pc | Heat Shrink Tubing | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OZSL8UE
    1 | Shop-Vac | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EPH63K0
    7 | Uxcel 16mm Thread 4-Pin Panel Mount Wire Connector | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FCZ5SS
    2 | 8 Circuit 20A Terminal Block | www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS

    Best of luck! Feel free to PM me or comment with any questions or feedback!
u/mandreko · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Voltmeter

Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

u/xxniteeyezxx · 2 pointsr/EntExchange

Well if you must know, Its a cremation box, usually sold for $20-30 on ebay. The Heating module and coil costed 13.00 from https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GDVVANA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The Button costed me 9.99 here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075QBJVTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and the power supply costed me 11.11 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NR6FPN9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


With shipping and Best offer accepted, i think im doing justice here. These were the best prices i could find at the time from MULTIPLE vendors. I have a Portside Mini in the mailbox tomorrow and THIS box has NEVER failed me in the last few months since built. It is a work in progress yes. It can be expanded and definitely worked on to make it much better. I would of taken $50 which is what they USUALLY sell for but i started it at 75.00. Im sure it will cost me about 7-10 to ship when wrapped properly. Not loony at all.

u/MxedMssge · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Exactly, yes! Everything that requires precise timings, instant response, and/or 5 volt logic would be on the Arduino and the Pi would just handle user interactions.

You could just get an Arduino Uno 3, that's kind of the standard Arduino board especially for people just learning. I just prefer the Mega because it is beefier and has way more GPIO pins. But the Uno 3 has enough to run three relays and your IR sensor easily (which has both 3.3 V and 5 V logic, meaning it can work with the Pi and Arduino respectively).

Speaking of relays, I really like the SainSmart ones and have never had an issue with them. This four-relay module is only $10:
https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-101-70-101-4-Channel-Relay-Module/dp/B0057OC5O8/ref=asc_df_B0057OC5O8/
Only thing is, and you might know this already, these things are pull-down rather than up. Meaning instead of pushing a 5V signal straight from a digital GPIO pin on the Arduino straight to the relay, you have to use a transistor to basically invert the signal. When the Arduino activates the transistor, it allows the pin on the relay board to go to ground which turns it on. Also, don't forget to always wire so the power off side is your closed side for all valves and such! The last thing you want if a board dies is to have the relay that controls your solenoid valve to default to power on, dumping all your liquid!

It definitely is overwhelming at first, but once you get really confident it opens up a whole new world of fun engineering!

u/fatangaboo · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

To drive one of those LEDs from a 9V battery you are going to need a series resistor for current limiting. The lower the resistance, the higher the current and the brighter the LED (and the faster you run down your battery). The higher the resistance, the lower the current and the dimmer the LED (and longer battery life).

I suggest you experiment on your kitchen table with various resistors and find the one which gives the brightness YOU require. In the Joe Knows Electronics resistor kit (amazon link), try 330 ohms, 390 ohms, 470, 560, 680, and 820 ohms. See which one YOU like. Then after you've picked a resistor value, consider that to be your "final circuit design". Build it into its permanent enclosure and hope you don't change your mind later.

Could you do this with a variable resistor and thereby, have a knob on your gizmo that lets you change the brightness whenever you like? Yes. Yes you could.

u/baddays79 · 1 pointr/diypedals

I bought most of the kits from Small Bear Electronics (the exception was the resistor kits). They are one of the only sources I've found for capacitor kits, transistors, op amps, pots, etc and they have some great stuff available.

Link to kits here

Spent about $100 but it took a lot less time than ordering all the items separately on Mouser.

I also bought a resistor kit from Joe Knows Electronics on Amazon.

Link to resistor kit here

I would also recommend buying a component tester, it's one of the best purchases I've made. It makes it feasible to pull all the components off of your breadboard and sort them quickly so you can reuse them. Also very handy in double checking a component value when you're building a pedal without looking at the color coding, etc.

Link to component tester

u/Cucumference · 4 pointsr/lgv20

So, after using this phone for about 2 years now, it is starting to feel a little sluggish. I have been browsing this place for a while and figure I will try this out just for kick.

Keep in mind, this phone has already been repasted using https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermal Paste. A very generous dosage too. Just to make sure it met, but really it wasn't a huge improvement over stock. Just a little better.

After about a year of this, while it didn't really degrade in performance, it wasn't all that satisfying, to begin with. So I decided to order https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-electronic-components/EYG-T3535A05A/P121364-ND/6217292
Just to try it out. Everyone else seems to be using Thermal Grizzly 0.5mm pad, but I decided to do this mostly cause it is cheaper and has 4 total applications that I can still share after a bit.

And result comparison is here, really, not too bad at all! https://imgur.com/a/MurKeke

The device is noticeably snappier and faster. Really don't notice the occasional sluggishness from before. I am very happy with this!

If you have a cheap way of getting this pad I still recommend it. I haven't compared it with thermal grizzly directly on the same phone but I can't imagine it to be much worse. Keep in mind Digi-key charge quite a bit of shipping. So unless you have shipping arrangement that is cheap. You should look for something like this elsewhere.

u/sev968 · 0 pointsr/Alienware

Hey bud! Repaste your thermal paste. Another issue to note is that your Cpu fan is directly against your PSU door. No air seems to get in in this setup, I recommend getting watercooled, it's not expensive for a single rad (sadly only a single rad seems to fit). This should definitely fix your issues!

Use this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519371166&sr=8-1&keywords=kryonaut

edit edit edit I've done it! haha!

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CW-9060024-WW-Extreme-Performance-Liquid/dp/B019954Y2Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519371707&sr=1-1&keywords=h80i

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOlWxc9tt6s link to video!

Make sure it's the same system for me!

You don't have to thermal repaste with the paste that's on this, you can if you want to. Heck, the paste might even fix the first issue w/o a new cooler. Good luck.


u/proto_hyped · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

These are just a few I'd recommend, but definitely do your research and see which one is best for your needs.

Thermal Grizzly Kyronaut

IC Diamond 7 Carat

Coollaboratory Liquid Pro

u/cm_bush · 1 pointr/audiophile

ASUS Gaming z170 something or other mobo (I can get the model later if needed)

Vizio 40" from 2015 > TOSLINK and RCA audio out.

Schiit Modi 2 and Magni 2 Uber

Old Sansui A-5 Stereo amp.

I am using basic cables all around, HDMI, Optical, and RCAs. Once again I have no noise issue when running direct from my PC TOSLINK to the Modi, but if I run through the TV there is noticeable hiss.

I also have a cheap DAC/Amp like this:
https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1540561437&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dac+amp

It is probably the best option right now but it clutters up my desk with the cable layout. It will work if I have no other option though.

I just wish the Sansui and the Modi shared a connection type. If I could just buy a splitter that would send the signal to both, I'd be fine.

u/neuromonkey · 14 pointsr/raspberry_pi

A couple of things come to mind:

A) Cool.

B) Instead of drilling through your stencils, I recommend using a finishing nail or an awl and banging pilot divots. This centers and guides the drill bit, and keeps you from killing your stencil, just in case.

3) Try heat shrink tubing. It's not terribly expensive, it's fun to use, and it makes you look clever.

D) In the event that you ever want people to think that you are very clever, get a decent soldering iron. If you have a lot of extra money to throw around, get a fancy Weller station. If not, I recommend the adorable Hakko FX-888. Now that the analog version has been discontinued, it's hard to find on sale, but... they're fantastic. If you want to feel fancy, you could get something like this. Look at all those bits! I don't know either!

u/ejo4041 · 1 pointr/woodworking

>How wide is your maple? Something to consider: I have a 12" 5hp Belsaw planer at my shop in Hagerstown, I'd be willing to give you access to for lumber trade. Also, I noticed you need a motor for your lathe, I have 4 electric motors that I don't use, I think most have pulleys. I purchased this a while ago as a speed controller, it works great.

>Those slabs sound amazing. How did you get those milled?

I also have a 12" planer. Some of the board are over 18 or 20. I think I'll be ripping most of them down anyways. Thanks for the offer on the motor, I recently picked up 2. I just need to get a belt that fits now.
The slabs I had done by 2griffins. They had an Alaskan chainsaw mill. That was really cool to watch. If you ever want to come see some of it, let me know.

u/ryanvsrobots · 1 pointr/sffpc

Thanks for the reply - I actually didn't know about liquid metal/aluminum reaction! Luckily I don't think this contains gallium, but I'll have to do some research to make sure. Thanks for the heads up, you possibly saved my heatsink!

u/CarbonGod · 2 pointsr/firewater

In the past I've used a large box type thing to control the heat output of my 1500w element. It got VERY VERY hot, and burnt out, because apparently i should have put a giant heatsink on the back (Why would it NOT come with one?)

Anyway....looking up motor controllers again, I see nothing but these guys. Rated at 2kw should be good for a 1500w element, but I'm not sure if PWM is a good thing, compared to plain old analog tuning. I guess it depends on the pulse width, right? 10hz compared to 0.1hz might be fine.


Edit: this is what I had which apparently is a FAN controller, and obviously analog (rheostat)

u/AbundanceNaught · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I use one of these for the LED's behind my TV.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P1N68FW/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495035763&sr=sr-1&keywords=fibaro
connects to smart things, can be auotmated.
I haven't had the greatest success though in controlling it via voice (i use echo).
For some reason when i try to rename the device in smart things, it no longer connects.
However having it part of a 'routine' works very well.
Turn on/off at certain times or as part of a macro like "good night" or what not.

u/NlightNme23 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Sorry for the late reply. First of all, take all of this with a grain of salt. This is my first build, so I am by no means an expert. You should definitely look in to all this on your own rather than blindly trust my purchases.
Here are the tools I got in my Amazon order:

u/Danappelxx · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Oh I'm still talking about 3s - in fact this is the exact battery I'm using, but to each their own.

What kv are those motors? Also, how wide are your esc's? The size of the heat shrink depends on the size of your stuff. I believe I used this heat shrink for my esc's, but mine are pretty small. If you want to be safe I recommend a set of heat shrink such as this or this.

I personally don't use braided wire but I've herad that this one isn't too bad.

Make sure to get that power supply! It'd be a very sad thing if you get can't charge your batteries but have everything else done.

u/VSDeggy · 1 pointr/Nerf

Just find a nice supplier of LED bulbs, resistors, and battery cases. My cases came from RadioShack and were about $1.50 each, and you can get a bulk pack of 80 LEDs and resistors off Amazon for $9. There are very few blasters that can't fit an LED into their front ends somewhere, and as long as there's enough space in the blaster for your batteries, the wiring real estate is almost negligible.

Of course, it requires a lot less tinkering if you can tear down an existing flashlight and fit it in the case, but where's the fun in that? :P

Edit: Also, that Rayven is beautiful. I need to get myself a Rayven.

u/iThinkergoiMac · 2 pointsr/hometheater

What you're looking for is a headphone amplifier or a DAC, though I'm not seeing very many headphone amps with TOSLink (optical) built-in. You could use a converter to go from TOSLink to RCA and then use a headphone amp to go from RCA to your headphones. I found this guy on Amazon, but I don't know anything about it and cannot in any way vouch for its quality: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Optical-Converter-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003XCHCLC

Alternatively, if you hook up a home theater system most receivers have a 1/4" jack on them (but that's a lot of expense if you're just trying to get a headphone connection).

EDIT: Ah! After a bit of searching, I think I found exactly what you need: https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538502346&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=toslink+to+RCA&psc=1

At $22 it's not going to be all that great, but it will get you the connection you're looking for. This will probably sound about as good as the output from your iPod, but it won't compare to a proper headphone amp. If you want a high quality setup, you'll want a high quality DAC paired with a headphone amp.

What headphones are you using?

u/desrtfx · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Actually, the parts are pretty standard, so it doesn't really matter where you buy from.

I bought them from various sources (electronics markets, amazon, and some local shops), so my links are just to be seen as examples:

u/TheAwesomer · 1 pointr/DanceDanceRevolution

I think you are going to have to make your own. Here's some links from a comment I made from a year or two ago:

Hey! Here is a guide that will tell you everything you need to do and it doesn't require any electronics knowledge at all: http://www.stepmania.com/forums/input-adapters-and-controllers/show/5493

I made two of these and they work great. With the pinout, you're pretty much set.

The only thing that I needed to purchase that the guide was not 100% on were ferrite cores - I recommend you getting these. They are little cylindrical clasps you put on to wires that help with interference. All parts linked below:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016FBVIJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UUROWWK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Gino-Suppressor-Ferrite-Filters-a12071000ux1058/dp/B009ENG6TI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1474499132&sr=8-6&keywords=ferrite+core

edit: here is the pinout for the cobalt flux http://pinouts.ru/Game/cobalt_flux_pinout.shtml

u/Crypto-Hero · 2 pointsr/Dell
  1. Remove all Killers wifi drivers & then install the latest Intel wifi driver. Very easy, 3 minutes top.
  2. Get the Grizzy thermal paste, open the back of the laptop, clean & repaste the CPU thermal.
  3. Install ThrottleStop, undervolt to the max amount on all. Guide here.
  4. Install Dell Updates app. This will scan your laptop and update any drivers all at once.
  5. Run Windows update utility. Start button, then select Settings \> Update & Security  > Windows Update.
  6. Sleep issue. This is not cause by Dell but Microsoft as a whole for Windows 10. Google the keyword: "connected standby" for more info. Basically when you close the laptop for it to sleep, it keeps background connection active to get updates for Windows, causing battery drain and sometimes, keeping the computer on even when the lid is closed. Work around: 1) Registry fix. 2) Change from Sleep to Hibernate in the Power setting. This is much better and has 0 drain at all. Lots of people do this on here.
  7. Enjoy it!
u/Dickelton · 1 pointr/Warframe

try dusting first this is the cheapest/easiest solution. If the problem persists then replace the paste (tons of guides online but I would recommend getting a parts tray or something before doing this as there are going to be quite a few screws).

High performance: https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

Best value: https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-Compound-Performance-Interface/dp/B0795DP124/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=mx-4&qid=1555675360&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1

Both options are non-conductive so you don't have to worry about it causing a short. If you stumble upon something known as liquid metal (popular for enthusiasts) I would not recommend it considering that stuff is mostly gallium and can cause a short.

u/Justintime233 · 6 pointsr/microgrowery

If it could be used everyone here would use one and save that money. I don't like spending $25 on a fan speed controller either but it needs to be done. The $20 one sucks by the way, it makes your fan hum, get the active air brand it runs quieter or if you really want the quietest get a variac. But that's more money and you're looking to spend less lol. I can help you spend more but not less.

u/Freezerburn · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Dang that's pretty hot, you need to take both your heatsink and gpu out of the system and see if you have caked in dust or if the fan stopped running. If you have a stock cooler on the cpu you'll need to disconnect the fan from the heatsink and pick out the caked up dust. While you have the heatsink out of your system, be sure to get some good thermal paste https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

Actually a photo of the inside of your case could be helpful. With angles of all fans inside the case.

u/MRThundrcleese · 1 pointr/techsupport

Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut is pretty much the best. Gelid GC-Extreme is the best bang for your buck

u/JASTechnologies · 1 pointr/overclocking

I learned to OC in the late 90' ( OK, not coiled foul). In early 2000's I started using thermal diodes on CPU, RAM and GPU. This will help you see the temps and either increase heatsink and fans or reduce your OC. A good thermal paste like Thermal Grizzly, Noctua NT-H2 or Artic MX-4. Which one you should use depends on surface. Some will damage aluminium, some have enough metal particals that can short your circuits if slopped over.

http://thermal-grizzly.com/en/

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=thermal+paste&qid=1573504592&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NT-H2-3-5g-Pro-Grade-Compound/dp/B07MXFTNZY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=thermal+paste+noctua&qid=1573504735&sprefix=thermal+paste+noc&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-Compound-Micro-particles-Durability/dp/B0795DP124/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=thermal+paste+noctua&qid=1573504735&sprefix=thermal+paste+noc&sr=8-3

I Hope this helps you.

u/ralfwolf · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

You don't need to do any soldering if you get the right parts. Get these leads to connect to the header on the rpi board. Then get these connectors and you’ll need a 4.7k ohm resistor. I’d suggest buying a combo pack of resistors and save the other resistors for future projects.

Pull two of the F/F leads off from the rest and cut them in half; you’ll use 3 of the 4 resulting pieces. Connect one of the leads to the Vcc lead on the thermometer probe (usually red) and one end of a 4.7k ohm resistor. The connector/splice is a T so you’ll use all 3 connections. Then connect another of the half leads to the Data lead from the probe (could be yellow or white or almost any other color) and the other end of the resistor. You’ll have something that looks like an H with the two leads with the resistor across the middle. The third lead from the probe will be the ground lead which will probably be black. This lead will be straight through just joining the resistor probe lead to the lead with the gpio header female to connect to the rpi board. The end result should be 3 wires terminated with the female header connector and the resistor between Vcc/Power and Data lines. Now you are ready to connect to the rpi board. Make sure it’s powered down and locate pins 1, 7, and 9. Look here for a diagram. Pin 1 is the pin closest to the SD card. Pins 1,7, and 9 will be the first, fourth, and fifth pins respectively on the inside row counting from the “back” (side where the sd card is) of the board. Pin 1 (first inside pin) will go to the Power/Vcc lead, Pin 7 (fourth inside pin) goes to the Data lead, and Pin 9 (fifth inside pin) goes to the GND/ground pin.

That’s it for the physical connection. Now boot it up and see if it’s already working:

cat /sys/bus/w1/devices/28-*/w1_slave

If you see something like the following, it’s working:

XX XX XX XX XX XX XX : crc=51 YES
XX XX XX XX XX XX XX t=23500

The second line t=NNNNN is the temperature in Celsius out to three decimal places so 23500 is 23.500 C.

If you get a “No such file or directory” error then do the following and reboot:

sudo sed -i.bak '$adtoverlay=w1-gpio' /boot/config.txt

EDIT: found a mistake in the ground lead connection instructions

u/Raider1284 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

an $8 inductive sensor also just plugs into the z-endstop, but you would have to solder the connection on yourself. https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Detecting-Distance-Inductive-Proximity/dp/B01M1777XK

But if you want something plug and play get a BL Touch: https://www.amazon.com/BLTouch-Leveling-Sensor-Premium-Printer/dp/B01FFV2TOS

with all of these options you have to update and flash the firmware to enable and allow autoleveling.

u/GCEmD · 3 pointsr/diypedals

Hi! I built a Beavis Board about six weeks ago. Not terribly difficult to make at all. I purchased these on amazon from Joe knows...

Resistors
Capacitors
Transistors

The problem I have is that some of transistors aren't right for the layouts, the capacitors aren't film, and I couldn't find an assorted IC box.

If I had to do it all over again I would catalog all the parts needed for every project on the projects guide or see of there was a list of items the Beavis Board came with and take that to Tayda or Mammoth. It's a lot of work but will be better in the long run.

I'm definitely interested if anyone else has purchased assorted boxes and how that worked out.

u/gj80 · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

Aside from the recommendation to shuck the drives (I'd transfer data off them one at a time before doing so), you could just put a box fan in front of all of them and run it on low. Or, any smaller "desktop" fan you might find in a local store or online. Anything like that should provide sufficient airflow to keep them cool enough as long as it's right in front of them.

It would follow the KISS principle, and it would only cost ~$15-ish

Oh, and if you want to be able to smoothly dial the speed of a box fan down to any arbitrary point (if "low" is still louder/faster than you want, which has sometimes been the case for me in the past), then what you want is a variac transformer between the box fan and the outlet. A little pricey to pair with a cheap box fan, I know, but I use that with one and it's quite nice since the box fan moves air while being almost totally silent, with no coil whine. You could do the same with a smaller turbine-style fan if you wanted something smaller.

u/DeletedOriginal · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

The relay setup and wiring is not hard but it can be a bit confusing at first until you figure out the GPIO wiring and setup. With my setup I can control a power strip that the Pi (via Octoprint menu entry) can turn on or off via the relay as well as having LED lighting inside my enclosure controlled that can also be controlled from Octoprint. If you want to give it a go just pick up a relay and some connectors to wire it to the GPIO pins. Feel free to hit me up once you have the hardware and I can share my wiring and Pi GPIO config with you so you can get going quickly. I like the 4 channel relays since they are only a few bucks more than the 1 or 2 chan versions and it allows you to add devices in the future. They are under $10: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057OC5O8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/redlotusaustin · 7 pointsr/homeautomation

If you don't mind going the DIY route, you could probably come in under $100 for parts for the strips:

u/NoMoreRedditUsername · 1 pointr/buildapc

Buy a 1 gram tube of Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. It's the best thermal paste there is, and you'll have cooler temps than with the stock paste AMD puts on. Just get some alcohol and wipe that crap off lol /s.

It's not really the end of the world to use stock paste though. There's usually a square of grey stuff on the bottom of the heatsink, which would be the thermal "solution". Thermal paste (solution) is just used for filling in the minuscule cracks between the heatsink and the shield on the CPU to help transfer heat. If you do ever clean it off and apply your own, just be sure to use a pea sized (or less) amount. You don't need as much as you'd think.

u/CitrusChrome · -1 pointsr/PS4

Both are non-conductive and both are not very good. If you can spring for Grizzly Kryonaut , get it as it's the best on the market right now. If you want to spend a little less for more compound, the tried and true NT-H1 is great. These are also both non-conductive.

u/nickolove11xk · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Nice to hear. what do you think is going bad in the relays? Some of the lighting is actually on some heavy duty relays. The relays that power the 120 are actually powered by 120 themselves, Something like this Those relays obviously would last a lifetime for a small load around 15 amps. Pretty cheep solution with a little more work to have a z-wave relay control another relay but if It makes it last longer lol.

Edit: whats your set up like? What components are you using?

u/iammrh4ppy · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Wow Thanks for the descriptive response!


I'm not very great at electronics, but here is the exact switch I'm using.

As for power source, I'm probably going to use 110 VAC to power the 4 ch relay board. http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-101-70-101-4-Channel-Relay-Module/dp/B0057OC5O8

This is the solenoid I will be using


Thanks! Your post really helped me think it through. Just need to put it to work lol.

u/peringa · 1 pointr/ender3

Thanks for the information!

​

Fot the Hero me, i need this fan?: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07BS8334N/

Or this kind? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSA83EW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I am litle confused about the correct fan! Thanks

u/FastRedPonyCar · 1 pointr/Guitar

congrats OP! I really enjoyed mine but just had too many amps and ended up selling it.

Grab a variac for some really great vintage chunk (very very different than the actual variac mode on the amp BTW)

This one I made using the variac mode on the amp but an actual variac will soften/loosen everything even more.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Ea9KKuA_y0

I got this one

https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS

u/viral_dna · 12 pointsr/classicmods

This is actually something I began last year and have only really posted a few teasers here and there. Well now that I've finally had time to clean it up and go back and add in the original cable I figured I'd share it with you all.

This "Stealth SD Mod" as I'm calling it, uses a MicroSD card and reader, however, you could just as easily use a small USB thumb drive in place of the MicroSD card and reader.

The way the stock USB cable connects to the inside of the controller actually presented itself as quite a problem, and not wanting to cut the cable, or destructively dremel away any of the controller (mainly due to my OCD) only made things harder. Fortunately, I was able to find a solution. Once assembled, this non destructive mod is Plug & Play.

This is actually an early prototype of something a little more advanced I'm working on.

Parts Required


  • Question: Does the controller have to be connected to Port 2?

    Answer:
    >Currently yes it must be connected to Port 2 (Player 2). The reason for this is when connected to Port 1 the system doesn't recognize the controller. This is something I think we can fix in a future update.


  • Question: Does the controller still function as a controller?

    Answer:
    >Yes, absolutely. Keep in mind however that the draw does exceed the allowed amount, so the USB Current Limit Mod is still required.


  • Question: What about USB Brown-outs?

    Answer:
    >While the power draw on this is incredibly low you'll still need to perform the USB Current Limit Mod in order to use this (Or use a hub, but that sort of defeats the purpose).


  • Question: Can you still use port 2 for other things like USB Thumb-drives, hubs etc?

    Answer:
    >Yes, absolutely.


  • Question: Can I bring my modded controller to a friends and play on their system with it?

    Answer:
    >Only if they have a powered USB hub or have performed the USB Current Limit Mod


  • Question: Does it throw off the balance of the controller at all?

    Answer:
    >The difference in weight is negligible (Stock 130g vs modded 136g).
u/Labyrinthy · 2 pointsr/PS4

If you search PS4 amp on Amazon you get several results across multiple price points. This for example looks solid but has some reviews you may want to inspect before purchase.

The one I wrote in my original post is one that I own and know works wonders. Unfortunately I haven’t used any of these amps to report and recommend, but more than happy to look around.

u/acewingman · 1 pointr/buildapc

This is by far the best you can get... https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU and even though the coolers come with thermal paste installed it doesn't hurt to have some on hand in case you need it. Since you are using the stock cooler you shouldn't have to remove it after pre-testing before installing like you would if you were installing a large AIO unit.

u/lampar0 · 2 pointsr/AskEngineers

I would replace your discrete components with an Arduino Pro Mini. You can connect three output pins to some relays, and drive the LEDs with a 5V power supply. You'll probably want to put a resistor in series with each LED, instead of one resistor for the whole string, to minimize risk of damaging them: (5V-3.4V)/.025A = 64Ohms, so use somewhere between 50 and 75 Ohms for each LED. Alternatively, you could run the whole thing on 3.3V and skip the resistors, but those power supplies aren't so common. In that case you'd want the 3.3V Arduino. PM me if you need help programming the Arduino, it's pretty easy.

u/Kalayo · 1 pointr/battlestations

Well a good route could be Fiio D3 for a cheapo DAC with optical in, which I find cleans up a lot of the noise especially when compared to USB DACs. Spend a little more on the amp, which impacts the sound more than the DAC.


PC>optical cable>Fiio D3>RCA>Schiit Magni

Should be under $150 including cables/shipping.

Edit: just saw what you were running. You really don't need much for your headphones. Honestly if you're having problems with a "noisy" source all you'd really need is an optical DAC to clean things up. Your source should provide more than enough power to power your audio technicas.

PROZOR Digital to Analog Converter 192kHz DAC Supports Volume control Digital Coaxial SPDIF Toslink to Analog Stereo L/R RCA 3.5mm Jack Audio Adapter for PS3 XBox HDDVD PS4 Home Cinema Systems AV Amps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDLCHY7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SFY-yb216G0JC

Cheap and well reviewed.

u/BeastKingGod · 2 pointsr/Alienware

Here is a great forum on disassembly and repasting. Do what you feel most comfortable with.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/alienware-17r4-15r3-disassembly-repaste-guide-results.797373/

This is the video I personally used for repasting, he uses Liquid Metal. I DID NOT
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Ujffb2gIsS0

This is the method I chose to go with using above video.
I used IC Graphite Thermal Pads along with copper shims in a stacked formation. !!!Side note!!! I did use the slightest of thermal paste to stop the graphite pad from sliding around on the CPU/GPU. Like a smudge of a smudge. Then I under volted CPU by 110. I personally have not had a heating issue since, but this all just a suggestion.

This is what I used
https://www.amazon.com/Innovation-Cooling-Graphite-Thermal-Pad/dp/B07CKVW18G/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541335540&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ic+thermal+pad&dpPl=1&dpID=417eWA82WvL&ref=plSrch

Copper shim
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OUJQX8K?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

This is what most people suggest**
https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

Hope some of this helps

u/640212804843 · 0 pointsr/buildapc

For stock it shouldn't matter. You shouldn't hit thermal limits.

That said, I would probably replace it because every chip these days thermal throttles. If you are hitting the limit, you might not realize without directly monitoring the temps. So either do research to know stock cooling won't limit you at all, or just replace the paste for 10 bucks and don't worry about it.

For 10-15 bucks, you can put on better thermal paste and get better cooling with the stock cooler. Best stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

Benchmarks: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1E1pEJdwf3-DVD3PgcObiiQv7hA9UVkOgFP6OHyTTp4g/edit#gid=0

u/Ropya · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Might want to up your PSU if you are thinking going VR.

Im not sure how much juice a VR rig pulls, put youre already around 60% PSU cap.

Also, this is the best non metallic TC ive seen on a couple studies:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011F7W3LU/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ANNSJU9W28Y9J

Same price.

Oh, and of the Tis, I like the Gigabyte one the best mainly because of the I/Os.

u/AtomKanister · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

100-200 Ohms seems about right. But I recommend buying a resistor kit like this instead of the individual values, makes you more flexible for future projects. And it's even cheaper than the 2 single value stips you listed.

u/TreeNuts0 · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

I use:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VKVZ1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_5JYIBb8H9QJ08

With this thermal paste:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uLYIBb6FD9PMT

The heatsink is large but it's super quiet. That whole family of heatsinks has good reviews.

u/grow_time · 1 pointr/microgrowery

My humidity was around 40%, but it should've been higher, but was not because the majority of the mist gets sucked right out due to the fan being too powerful. After I got my fan and controller, I also took off the filter as there is no smell at the moment. Humidity is right around 55 rH lights on and 65-70 rH lights off. This is possible due to being able to set the fan very low. During flowering I'm going to put the filter back in and remove the humidifier altogether as I don't want to ruin my new filter again. Also, my ambient rH is around 30% which is fine for flowering. It will be higher than 30% inside the tent due to all the vegetation in there, so I might have to put in a dehumidifier.

I'm trying to follow a VPD chart (which you should also look into). Removing the humidifier can't come soon enough. Filling that stupid humidifier 2 to 3 times a day (one if them in the dark) is a pain in the ass.

The speed controllers that come with the fans are usually crappy and not good for the motor. They also won't let you adjust down past a certain threshold. I got a Variac 3 amp variable transformer. https://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS and a Vortex S600 fan (expensive option for a fan but any 6in inline fan will do.)

I hear ya on the paralysis. I was the same way. I bought what I thought was the perfect little set up, but ended up returning a bunch of things and buying more. You learn as you grow. Also, no problem with helping out. I'm somewhat of a noob still and love helping those who put in the time and research. :)

u/ENGR001 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

Edit: Please make sure you turn off and unplug your power supply before cutting any wires.

Parts / tool list below, this what i used but there are substitutes out there.

Note: Main thing that is slightly challenging is soldering the XT60s, basic idea is to “tin” (soldering term) the wires and the XT60s first, then heat the connector with your iron as you put the wire in to get a good fusion. Decent video on soldering them:solder XT60s


My soldering Iron:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZRT4M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Soldering Flux:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ZIV85A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Solder (60-40)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071G1J3W6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

New XT-60’s and Shroud:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074PN6N4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Helping Hands (not required, but def helpful)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB38X8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bought this a while ago, but any heat shrink will do:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MFA3OFA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wire - If you’re new to soldering and need practice, or you’re going to split your cables for Rasberry Pi, or other components, etc:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABOPMEI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/soawesomejohn · 1 pointr/AndroidQuestions

You should get some ferrite cores. Put one on each end of the cables (your charger and your audio cable).

It's most likely engine noise entering the charging cable, but it could also get picked up by the audio cable.

You can try different schemes. It may be placebo, but I think they do best when they have one wrap around the core, like shown here.

u/daairguy · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Yes I actually just ordered the fan and filter so I actually dont have it running yet but this fan will be cooling my hood. Im planning on setting it up like this. Ill have the filter hung up in the corner top of my tent, then Ill attach the fan to it, then the hood, then have ducting taking the exhaust outside of my tent. This fan has a low and high speed., 239/333 cfm I believe. You can also get one of these that can help you control your speed as well. Im planning on getting a 4in filter (thats all i need, its cheaper and lighter too) and getting a 4 to 6 in duct converter (just a few buck at home depot)

http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-300va-Output/dp/B006NGI8VS

u/Buffalox · 1 pointr/Amd

It's $12 on Amazon for 1 g: link


It's obviously good, but HY880 is just £10 for 30g. Which is great if you experiment or switch parts around when you upgrade. You can buy one tube and have enough for a long time. Or you can get 3g for just £2 link


Other than that there are other factors than thermal conductivity, like thermal contact and longevity.


I agree that $7 is mostly irrelevant when building a computer, but personally thermal grease is something I always have lying around for miscellaneous uses.

u/chlorobot · 3 pointsr/gardening

I'm currently struggling with the same problem with my project.

You'd probably want to put a DHT11 in each pot attached to GPIO on the Pi.
The soil RH (relative humidity) could be used to determine whether to power a 12v pump or solenoid valve (if gravity fed).

Relays are super easy to set up and control using a Pi and relatively safe at 12v. The difficult question here is how to direct the water into whichever pot requires what amount of water. A naive approach is one pump per pot but that could get costly... hmm

I'm using this pump

I'm using this relay

Here's the code to read digital Celcius and RH from the DHT

I'm also considering adding an additional 'misting' nozzle to help control my super-hot (not ideal) environment :

Soil > Tempenature : 37.0 Humidity : 77.0


Feel free to follow up in PM if you have any questions.

u/Zatch_Gaspifianaski · 1 pointr/microgrowery

That is my exact setup for my veg tent, other than I use a 400w MH. It was my first tent, but I wanted a continuous cycle, so I got a bigger tent for flowering.

The actual draw on that 700w model is 334w so that would probably be the one to go with, and probably won't need any supplemental lighting.

After buying the fan speed controller, while it does work, I found out that apparently it isn't the right kind for the type of motor the fans use. This is a little more expensive, but is supposed to be better on your fan motors.

u/Shensai · 5 pointsr/xboxone

Yep. I blew out all the dust and replaced the thermal paste with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=thermal+grizzly&qid=1557427684&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Put more on than you think you need as the cooler contact isn’t super tight and it’s none conducive so it’s just fine if it comes out on the sides.

I used compressed air to clean the heat sink and fan. Rubbing alcohol to clean the old thermal paste. Be careful cleaning around the resistors around the apu. They are somewhat delicate. You can really just leave them as they are. GamersNexus never cleans them because it’s pointless and risks damaging them.

I think it’s quieter than when it was new. I can barely hear it when gaming on a X enhanced game.

u/whaaa123 · 1 pointr/vitahacks

I used to use bluetooth headphones with my pstv and the sound was decent but I recently switched to a toslink converter and the sound quality is much much better. I think most tvs have an optical audio out.

The one I got has no volume control which is a little annoying but you can get a headphone volume knob or this model has one built in.

Gives probably the best setup possible for rhythm games on pstv, music also sounds 10x better.

https://www.amazon.com/PROZOR-Digital-Converter-Supports-control/dp/B06XDLCHY7

u/SnowdogU77 · 1 pointr/arduino

[Here's a relay] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0057OC5O8?qid=1427254414&sr=8-6&vs=1#)

Wiring is pretty intuitive.

12v DC > Relay 1 blue connector 1

Motor positive wire > Relay 1 blue connector 2.

Connect Arduino ground and digital IO (set to output) pins to the pins associated with the relay that you chose, raise the DIO pin to High, and the relay will connect the motor to the power supply.

Technical note: These relays trip at 15-20ma, so there shouldn't be any issues using a DIO pin. If you choose a different relay, MAKE SURE the relay input draws less than 40ma, otherwise you may damage your Arduino. This relay board is also protected by diodes, so your Arduino is shielded completely from the 12v.

u/eatgoodneighborhood · 1 pointr/woodworking

How wide is your maple? Something to consider: I have a 12" 5hp Belsaw planer at my shop in Hagerstown, I'd be willing to give you access to for lumber trade. Also, I noticed you need a motor for your lathe, I have 4 electric motors that I don't use, I think most have pulleys. I purchased this a while ago as a speed controller, it works great.

Those slabs sound amazing. How did you get those milled?

u/BrutalGT · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

On This Guide it only shows it being done to the Power which I found weird. You did it to the "Hotbed" one next to that as well?

That guide also suggests getting this Heat Shrink but that is included with the connectors?

Thank you very much for the information, that is very helpful!

u/JustinCampbell · 4 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Sure! You'll need a relay to handle the higher voltage from wall outlet, or from the wiring in the strand itself. I have a 4-channel version of this that works great: http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-2-CH-2-Channel-Relay-Module/dp/B0057OC6D8

If you want a finished solution, Belkin makes WeMo devices you can control from an iPhone or Android, or setup trigger with IFTTT: http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Automation-Switch-Apple-iPhone/dp/B0089WFPRO

u/rezinyou · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I use this one from amazon. It has a 120v coil so it is easier to control. I use a contactor the pool pump and one for the pool cleaner pump controlled with a dual relay z wave micro switch. But any z wave switch that you can mount will work. Many pool pump panels have a place for a switch to mount. Mine is inside the panel and works great.

u/KMQFMSAH · 1 pointr/originalxbox

What i did was use a molex splitter with fan adapter and placed a 120mm fan on top of the hestsinks of the cpu/gpu so it ran full speed. You can get it to balance nicely so it wont drop and smack off the heatsink since they are different sizes. I unplugged and removed the dvd drive and had the hdd off to one side (as far as the power and ide cable would allow.

I then transferred around 500GBs in one go via ftp. Note that I also reapplied new thermal paste on both heatsinks after getting the stock gunk off. No problems at all and i highly reccomend doing it this way, just leave the room as the noise can be irratating, and it takes an age to transfer. Just make sure the xbox is in the open - i cracked my window and sat the xbox as close as i could to allow fresh cool air to aid cooling.

u/IMPEACH_TRUMP_NOW · 5 pointsr/microgrowery

I have a speed controller like that, it makes the fan louder actually. This one is worth it if loud fans annoy you https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS

3 plants is absolute max for 2x4 and 3 gal pots are prob enough for that. my 3 plants have filled my 2x4 halfway through flower, 2 is a better number if you want good light coverage, 2 plants with 5 gal pots

u/BreeStephany · 8 pointsr/toolboxmods

Mount your powerstrip on top, route the wiring into the underside of the top and route it forward, then mount a low profile surface mount switch on the underside of the top so you can just open the drawer and turn it on and off, you can then route it out the back of the box with just a cord and a plug or you can mount an recessed male plug on the back of the box that you can plug a cord into.

I used an IEC plug for the back of my powerbank project and was pretty happy with how it turned out. I used a locking IEC cord to come out of it which I can put a twist lock plug on for cord drops, etc.

u/RayCharlizard · 1 pointr/PS4

For a console, any brand that is non-conductive is going to be fine. Though the highest performer right now is going to be Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. If you want to save some money and get something cheaper that's gonna be okay too, almost anything is going to better than what comes stock on the system.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU

u/ThatOnePerson · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

You could wire it to a switch. The maker select comes with one like this for example.

Another option is to switch the power supply to an ATX one ( Computer power supply). Then you can either way a switch to turn it off and on, or use something like a raspberry pi to turn it on through wifi which is awesome.

u/mafco · 1 pointr/smarthome

Sure. Here's the contactor:

https://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-Pole-Contactor-Voltage/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=sr_1_2?crid=OIUJ07IZNPPX&keywords=30+amp+contactor+120v+coil&qid=1550624331&s=gateway&sprefix=30+amp+contact%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-2

And here's the box I used:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-Amp-240-Volt-Non-Fuse-Metallic-AC-Disconnect-TFN60RCP/100674085

It's an AC disconnect box but I just removed the disconnect switch and drilled a couple of holes to mount the relay. The ground bar is useful. Use 10awg romex for wiring it. I also used an inexpensive ($12) internet connected smart light switch that's compatible with google home and alexa to actuate the relay coil. Total cost around $30.

u/ravenobsidian · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

BTW. You can buy some prototyping board (like this) and some through-hole resistor (like this) to practice your soldering, as soldering diodes and switches are pretty much the same technique, and they are super cheap. ;)

u/LaughsTwice · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Here is a small diagram i threw together for soldering in an additional fan into power pads beneath the board. I have switches in here because i plan on having a switch for the part cooling fan so i can turn it off when i want to print ABS parts.

Also, get these connectors so that you only have to solder one + wire and one - wire to the mainboard, strip 11mm of wire and plug the + into one connector and the - into another connector. Now you have the ability to add 4 accessories like extra fans or LED lighting.

u/TomTheGeek · 1 pointr/arduino

Probably the best way would be with a relay. They're electromagnetic operated switches and as a bonus the two circuits aren't connected so they can't interfere with each other. I bought a 4 relay version of this board and I can control it directly from an Arduino with only a couple of wires.

u/Jim-Jones · 2 pointsr/electricians

Sure. Does yours have a 2 pin or a 3 pin plug?

Something like this should work fine.

Photo of the label on the tray would help.

u/2moreweeks · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Get a bigger fan (with a variatic controller if you want to run it less cfm)

GoBox nutes are not that harsh in flowering. I don't get nute burn when just using the GoBox full strength flower schedule except with some finicky picky phenos.

I use a Hurricane Fans 745 CFM Inline Fan, 8-Inch for my 5x5 8" Gorilla tent with an 8" pass through Phesh filter pulling from upper level

proper speed controller, however I use my 8" full blast currently
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS/

u/Go3Team · 1 pointr/rva

I'm using cheap LED strips off of Amazon.

I have one strip controlled by a Fibaro RGBW controller.

The others are controlled by Raspberry Pis, with custom scripts to handle fades, strobes, etc.

They are very bright when it's dark out. We could see them very clearly from about 2/10ths of a mile away. I have one setting that looks like strobes from a police car. I haven't tested that one outside yet though. The plan is to use it if someone comes around licking door handles.

The picture I posted is from the blue being set at 100%.

Oh, and a video of police mode inside.

u/NaLaurethSulfate · 1 pointr/arduino

This.

I got one of these recently and it seems to work fine. Fairly cheap, super easy to use.

u/olmecmx · 1 pointr/GamingLaptops

Good nigh all! so got my Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut , i just re-pasted my laptop and the thermals are great with out limiting Turbo Boost, see below. Like i said before, im not pro at this but this temps came from FFXIV Shadowbringers Benchmark Running at Max Settings. I hope this helps anyone. ( It did not let me paste the Images so see below:

​

Stock Settings Temps No Turbo

[Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/U9lI412.png)

Stock Settings Temps Turbo On

[Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/zCvB1Vt.png)

New Temps After Repaste Turbo Off

[Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/0zHliKT.png)

New Temps after Repaste Turbo On

[Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/BMNsUln.png)

New Temps Turbo Off with Undervolt

[Imgur](https://i.imgur.com/Z83Dwpo.png)

u/AlwaysSunnyInAustin · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

This is pretty much the best option for LED strips. You can set up 4 different sets from this one z-wave device.
https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW

u/yeggmann · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You don't need arctic silver 5, your CPU cooler should include some paste and it will be just as good as AS5. If you want to buy a premium paste, people are buying this to save a couple degrees on their temps. Its up to you if its worth the extra money for a couple degrees.

u/AngularSpecter · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

It really depends on what your end goal is.

If you want to stick with Atmel, then buy an Arduino or Arduino clone. This will cost you ~$40 or so depending on which model you decide on. With an Arduino, you can use the Arduino libraries, or write low level code (I suggest at least trying low level code). If you decide you want to build projects with stand alone AVR's, then it will be a good idea to purchase a flash programmer as well ($10 to $20). The chips that come with an Arduino contain special code that lets you load new firmware over a serial link (called a bootloader). Raw chips lack this, so if you want to program a bare chip, you need the tool. You can even just use the tool to flash the arduino bootloader onto a bare chip.

If you aren't sold on Atmel, TI offers a very competitive option in the MSP430 Launchpad ($10). There is a port of the arduino code and IDE for this board (Energia), so you can still get the arduino experience if you wish. Otherwise, learning to program MSP430's at the low level really isn't that tough once you get a feel for it. Besides, the cost, a big advantage TI's offering has is that the dev board contains a built in programmer, which can be used on external chips. When you move to a stand alone chip in a project, you can program the bare chip by running 4 jumper wires from the dev board to the project....so there is no extra programmer to purchase. If you were to replace the ATTiny in the project with a MSP430G2210, you could accomplish the same thing and program it with the launchpad

Once you have a dev board, I would pick up a solderless breadboard and jumper wires (less than $10 on Amazon). Based on your project idea, I would also either buy a small resistor pack (~$10) and some LED's, or something like this. That would get you started towards building your project on a breadboard.

u/DatWaggo · 1 pointr/AnetA8

PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fused Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mosfet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The PSU has a built-in fan that kicks on and off when the PSU gets warm. I don't plan on printing things with any crazy high temperatures, so these upgrades were probably a bit overkill, but I'd rather have components that are a bit more trustworthy than what comes with a $150 kit.

u/joshiness · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I agree with everyone else, any speakers you want and connect it to the dot. what kind of light strip do you have? Or are you looking for one? Amazon has the Sylvania one on sale right now.

https://smile.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-ZigBee-Starter-SmartThings-Assistant/dp/B00R1PB80I?sa-no-redirect=1

Great thing is you can buy a cheap Chinese Led strip to extend it for cheap, just make sure it's a 5 pin strip.

If you are looking for a zwave controller I would go with the Fibraro micro controller:

https://smile.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW?sa-no-redirect=1

Of course you would then need a hub. I personally use smartthings but if you are more technically inclined and want everything to stay local you can use it with HASS, you'll just need to pick up a zwave/zigbee stick.

u/FuzzeWuzze · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

I threw something together that i think would work for your circuit
Honestly though i wouldnt do what your doing and run amperage through a keyswitch, for one its not really safe and two depending on what fridge you use + powering a RPI you could easily surpass the typical 10A the switches have when the compressor comes on and spikes. You may be able to get away with it though, but im a fan of using contactor relays to prevent this. It will add another $10 to the build but its a mechanical relay that can control your hot line via a key switch, and only put a few milliamps through the switch at any given time, this switch would control the 5V power supply which would power the RPI, basically identical to how an electric brew panel would work.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2798684/BrewPiCustom.png

Obviously others should chime in if theres something glaringly wrong...i just threw it together in 5 minutes.

This is the power supply i bought to power my RPI in my electric brew panel
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LT2PGY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Cut a micro usb cable, wire to the power supply and plug into the RPI's usb port...easy.

This contactor is way overkill, im sure theres better/cheaper solutions im just posting what i know would work since its what ive used...others probably can chime in on this
http://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-Pole-Contactor-Volt/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31caQKUqB6L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0RJ3XDZRY4G14DRRN5K0

u/futilehavok · 1 pointr/buildapc

Nothing particularly wrong with it besides SLI issues you would encounter. Although I would spend thermal paste money on some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, you are getting less but its the best thermal paste on the market.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

u/willster191 · 1 pointr/buildapc

You should probably invest in some real thermal paste. This is good. In fact, it's the best thermal paste around. You can buy isopropyl alcohol at your local grocery store cheap. It's a liquid solution that will not damage your CPU when you use it to remove the thermal paste.

u/Ghigs · 1 pointr/electrical

Most any dimmer that works on "chopping" the AC cycle can cause buzzing. You'd have to go with a pretty fancy and more expensive one that could generate a cleaner signal if it bothers you.

Something like a variac would give you clean power with no possibility of buzzing.

http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-300va-Output/dp/B006NGI8VS

It would be pushing this one right to it's full rating, but this one should work.

Edit- Here's a 5 amp with a little more capacity to be safe:
http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-500va-Output/dp/B006NGI2RS/

u/lordderplythethird · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

at first I just let them go however they wanted, as I was swapping between my HD598s and my M50Xs. However, once I decided to use my HD598s 100% of the time for my computer, I initially just threw a few zipties to hold them together, and then I eventually bought some shrink wrap like this, and used a heat gun/lighter to do a nicer job combining the cables. You could sleeve it like this for unique colors/better look

u/WRipper · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Damn yeah that must be loud. I have that fan as well. Highly recommend. Get a variac controller to run it as well. So you can turn it down.

PHC Enterprise SC-3M Variac Variable Transformer, 300 VAC Max, 0-130V Output, 3 Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NGI8VS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l3Gjzb63MZW1C

u/dcoolidge · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Way cool! Thank you. I couldn't figure out the proper name for them. I just ordered some off of amazon ;) Link.

u/kingviper · 1 pointr/led

Thank you so much! This is very useful information. My plan was to use one of the following 2 z-wave controllers, but whether I can use 1 or if I"ll need more will depend on the actual power requirements of these strips.
Fibaro
Qubino

I'm going to email the seller to see if they can clarify the power information.

edit: The seller responded and they said 85 watts is correct. Ultimately doesn't matter since I overlooked the fact that they are not outdoor rated! Any recommendation for quality affordable strip lights? I'm looking at something like this now.
LEDENET RGBW

u/boredherobrine13 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Info about water cooling? AiO loop or custom? If AiO, any idea which one? Brand? etc. Additionally, you may want to consider a better thermal paste like Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut.

u/redroguetech · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I don't know of any "smart" controller that can handle more than one run of RGBW(W). The Fibaro can handle two separate runs of white (for a max of four strips without a booster), controlled through the color channels. So, having three runs would be three controllers. Although that would allow the three runs to be controlled independently, it would be with the price tag of three controllers (and the effort of setting them up). And those controllers would still need power, so it's the same thing in terms of wiring.

If there's a controller that can support multiple strips as separate "devices", I'd be very interested.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Although I'm not familiar with your fan on your list I have three speed controllers. This is the best by far out of mine.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS

u/Copywright_Deez · 1 pointr/thinkpad

Sweet! Thanks!

[here's the USA version for anyone else searching](thermal grizzly kryonaut thermal grease paste - 1.0 gram https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kzvNBbYDSBMDG)

u/WolfedHD · 1 pointr/buildapc

Here's what I would do.

Maybe try out another case like the NZXT S340 Elite, it's not worth getting a case like that, this is very opinion-based, so take this with a grain of salt.

Definitely don't get a 2x4gb, get 1x8gb, so you can upgrade later on.

Get this compound paste
https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

u/ToxicFox2 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Good idea! For anyone who wants to have a set of organized resistors I would recommend this kit. Only $18 in Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Electronics-Value-Resistor/dp/B003UC4FSS

u/Shadow703793 · 1 pointr/arduino

> What I was shooting at was more of the specifics, e.g. variety vs 330 and 10k resistors only. Think of it like the emergency kit of arduino :P

No. You WANT a veriaty kit like this if you already don't have one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UC4FSS/ when it comes to common parts like resistors, caps, diodes,etc. After getting that, get a bulk order of common ones like say 100,220,1K,22K,etc resistors.

u/6trees1pot · 5 pointsr/microgrowery

getya one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Variac-Variable-Transformer-300va-Output/dp/B006NGI8VS

those cheap ones will make the fan hum. this makes it super quiet

u/benbenkr · -1 pointsr/PS4

Neither. Get this

Also, you only need to clean it once a year if you actually CLEAN it properly. Not just blowing dust off the surface.

u/Zeterain · 1 pointr/audiophile

My dad passed down his Martin Logan Vantages and his Krell kav 400xi amplifier to me. Growing up with him I was used to listening to them with a pretty high end source (he had a high end record player and CD player.) He kept the sources, so this is my current setup:

XBox sends sound to TV via HDMI, then through the optical audio out on the TV to a DAC (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDLCHY7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), which is connected directly to the amp.

I typically am just streaming Spotify, but I often hear distortion in songs where previously there was none. It just doesn't sound too good. I don't really own CDs; streaming music is what I do. I know I won't get the same high-end sound as a CD or a vinyl, but what would be your recommendation for a source that will stream to the krell amp?

Thanks!

u/Teh_Chap · 3 pointsr/Dynavap

Big shout out to the /u/beasthoss guide in the sidebar. Worked like a charm first time. Induction heating really makes the already awesome dynavap experience even better. All parts used are listed below for anyone interested. I did use some t-taps I had laying around but no solder.

Induction Heating Module

Power Supply

Glass Adapter

Momentary Switch

Project Enclosure

Drill Bit

Edit for parts list.

u/wolfcry0 · 2 pointsr/arduino

Yeah, the arduino can supply only a couple mA from each IO pin, that pump likely needs 500-1000mA to run.

You can also use a relay for a more simple setup, like this board for example, it will let the arduino switch high current loads like the pump easily.

u/Man_of_Many_Hats · 1 pointr/ender3

I'm in the middle of converting mine to an e3d v6 clone, bullseye mount, bltouch clone (that I had working well before), stock parts cooling fan and this 40mm heatsink fan:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZSA83EW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

How are you mounting everything?

u/sk9592 · 1 pointr/buildapc

The best non-conductive paste would be Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/?tag=pcpapi-20

But it doesn't make financial sense for most people.

9/10 you'll do just fine with the thermal paste that comes with your cooler.

u/djkrugger · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Yeah, if you're not very experienced in electronics better stay with something already tested, specially for anything mains related!. Probably you could use one of these arduino relay boards, they're fairly cheap and are opto isolated to keep things safe.

u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/SmartThings

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW/ref=sr_1_1

---

Never forget to smile again | ^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/IncredulousDesire · 1 pointr/SexToys

I've had good luck with a router speed controller. You can find them at most hardware stores for very little money.

u/SithKain · 1 pointr/OutOfTheLoop

This is correct, the top tier solution would have been to remove the pre-applied grease and use something more premium, like Thermal Grizzly

u/y-aji · 2 pointsr/synthdiy

This.. I have really been enjoying look mum's cem 3340 tutorial:
https://www.lookmumnocomputer.com/cem-3340-diy-simple/

I would strongly suggest getting a resistor and capacitor kit off ebay or amazon.. They're like 15$-20$ each. That will get you a few of a huge range of resistors and caps:

https://www.amazon.com/Top-cofrLD-Resistors-1640pcs-resistors-Assortment/dp/B00WE1FQ8Y/ref=sr_1_14?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1541720878&sr=1-14&keywords=resistor+book

https://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Electronics-Value-Capacitor/dp/B007SVHFXO/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1541720924&sr=1-5&keywords=capacitor+kit&dpID=41%252BFAHpNRVL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

The worst part of these projects is waiting for parts. So Building up a little surplus of this kind of stuff will make your wait time much lower..

u/ProfessionalHobbyist · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I soldered my ergodox PCBs with my hakko set to 650 F (about 340-350 C). Just don't keep the iron on the switch solder posts any longer than necessary. Basically, if you don't have a perfect joint in 3 seconds, you did something wrong. The traces are small enough on keyboard PCBs that you probably don't even need that high of a temp, but I think it helped to make nice shiny joints when using lead-free solder.

The same temps worked with a separate de-soldering pump that I have that is similar to this one. I haven't used the integrated kind that you linked to before. Over 400C, you are risking burning up small traces and delicate components, but you are probably okay if you work fast. If you really wanted to control temp on that cheap desoldering iron, you could plug it in through a variable transformer.

Soldering components to a huge, thick PCB ground plane on my tesla coil kit, on the other hand... that was more of a challenge. I dialed it up to 750F (400C), and should have been using extra flux.

u/relevant_pet_bug · 1 pointr/buildapc

Sure, that's fine, you can always add extra cooling later.

Just be careful when removing the AM4 stock cooler, make sure to run a CPU stress test and remove it by twisting. The stock cooler can sometimes pull the CPU out of the socket and bend pins. Consider removing the stock paste with 99 percent alcohol and using a non curing thermal past like Kyronaut

u/Gliese581Visitor · 1 pointr/CR10



You can replace the sensor. This is courtesy of Jason Cook; sign up on facebook for the CR-10S user group and you can read his entire post there!

"Having trouble leveling the CR-10s Pro? Is the leveling sensor not repeatable and leaving you with bad first layers? Here is my solution:

  1. Replace the leveling probe with an inductive probe. This one is a direct fit, all you have to do is install a new connector or change the connector from your old sensor. $8.99 on Amazon.

    URBEST 8mm Detecting Distance... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1777XK…

  1. Install the Tiny Machines firmware. Search this group for more details.

    The probe is extremely repeatable and does not seem to be significantly affected by temperature or humidity. I have mine set so that it detects the bed 2mm high and then the tiny Machines firmware remembers the offset on a power cycle. It nails the first layer every time and when probing the bed, the nozzle is high enough that it does not leave plastic dots on the bed. I was always having to tinker with the old sensor settings and had a lot of bad prints. Now, I just hit print and it works perfectly every time.

    I hope this helps. I love printing with my CR-10S Pro now."
u/emptynestingent · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

When air is moving we dont think that there is an electric motor turning it but not getting the benefit of the air since we redirect it. A little noise to make sure there isnt a fire is a fine exchange. If it is too loud this way try moving it in the attic away from any walls.

This is the fan set up I use and once its mounted it stays quiet.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Z1JLY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGI8VS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The transformer made all of the difference. I keep it set at about 75% of maximum.

u/tamarockstar · 3 pointsr/overclocking

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

That's probably the best non-electrically conductive thermal paste. Like I said though, you'll only see a couple degrees difference. Delidding would drop it 10-20C degrees though.

u/coogie · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Nothing directly. You'd need to set up a 2 pole contactor with a 120 volt coil and connect your conventional 120 volt smart switch to that. Since you already didn't know such a thing existed, I highly recommend you call an electrician to install and wire the panel.