Reddit mentions: The best extension cords

I think others have said it, but your best bet is to forget about the camera and start with what you have. Even cheap phones work well enough for youtube as long as you can pump enough light into them. You are better off concentrating on the rest of your kit first.

Audio is the most important part of your video. Nothing will make someone skip your videos faster than having terrible audio quality, especially if you are wanting to do ASMR and mukbangs. If you are going to blow your budget somewhere I recommend going big on your audio. For starter mics I recommend the Audio-Technica AT875R. It is a killer mic and the best bang for the buck mic I have found so far. You will need a recorder, but to save money starting out you can record directly to your computer using a cheap phantom to usb adapter and Audacity.

https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT875R-Gradient-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B000BQ79W0/

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-1-Channel-Microphone-Condenser-Recording/dp/B076WF7DSP/

The other thing you will need starting out is light. Your footage is going to look terrible if you just record with available light inside. There are alot of cheap led lights out there but for the most bang for the buck I recommend going the DIY route. A pack of high cri led bulbs is cheap and will give you more light than any similarly priced panel will. You will need a trip to a home improvement store for a fixture and extension cord. I think FilmRiot has a tutorial on this setup, and you can even build a dimmer into the cord for about $10 more. Then you can diffuse the light through a frosted shower curtain for great soft light.

https://www.amazon.com/TORCHSTAR-Dimmable-Equivalent-1600lm-Daylight/dp/B07JMP9K7W/

https://www.amazon.com/Nuvo-SF77-193-Polished-24-Inch/dp/B01F4DSYDM/

https://www.amazon.com/Woods-General-Purpose-Extension-Black/dp/B000KKJUHE/

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Rotate-Almond-18020/dp/B002DNG3EE/

https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-5320-2-Weatherproof-inches-Bronze/dp/B000BW3EK0/

The last thing you will need is a tripod for your phone. You aren't shooting anything that really needs or would benefit too much from alot of movement, so a gimbal or steadicam is just overkill and unnecessary. There are a million tripods out there, but for the sake of consistency I will link to one I found.

https://www.amazon.com/Acuvar-Aluminum-Universal-Smartphone-Smartphones/dp/B00SHJPMEU/

So there's the kit I would put together if I was starting out again. It will give you a great foundation to grow from and when the budget appears for a better camera it will still help you out (I still use my DIY lights in my home studio even now that I have a trunk full of much better lights). I'm not sure what you have lying around to make this cheaper, but by my rough maths you are looking at about $350 USD for everything on my list, and you could probably hunt around and get it even cheaper.

​

As to editors, I recommend ponying up the bucks for Adobe. It's a little expensive, but it's better to spend a little now rather than spend the time learning a cheap or free NLE and then having to relearn Adobe down the road if you decide to up your game. If you absolutely don't have the budget both Hitfilm's and Davinci have a free version that is pretty solid.

​

edit: forgot to mention software.

Cheap tripods are great for traveling, and I've given over a hundred demos with them, but they kinda get in the way, and the larger you make the footprint (to improve stability) -the more they encroach in your play space.

I use these tripods with these swivel adapter things for my on-the-road show. As long as they don't get bumped, you're good to go.

For home, I use This tension rod and this rod mount - you may need a longer rod- I run it from the top of my dresser to the ceiling and the top of my computer desk to the ceiling. The 87 inch one isn't long enough to go from floor to ceiling for me.

As far as other essentials, two of these help with plugging the lighthouses in. An HDMI Extender, Power extender, and a USB 3.0 Extender (those three work perfectly for me) will make your life 100x more easy, especially if your computer isn't directly next to your play space. The extra 10 feet makes a world of difference for reducing tangles, reducing the number of times you have to stop and untwist your cord, and making you not worry about yanking on your computer when you get to the far corner.

Lastly, this wireless keyboard thing will save you from running back and forth from your desktop.

---

As far as sweatyness, I got over the ickyness pretty quickly. My friends have mastered basic hygiene, and face sweat doesn't smell all gross or anything. After each demo, I run the foam under the sink to rinse it off, then dab it with a paper towel and set it on a box fan to dry. It's good to go as soon as the next person is done and I repeat the process. I ended up buying a set of new face foams from the HTC website after I lost my narrow face foam though :(

Modified boating stuff:

A fuse box like this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=pd_bxgy_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001P6FTHC&pd_rd_r=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3&pd_rd_w=eatpQ&pd_rd_wg=QSpKm&psc=1&refRID=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3 which connects to this https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-On-Board-Charging-Inlets/dp/B000NI38MG/ref=pd_sbs_200_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01K9KDXOA&pd_rd_r=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&pd_rd_w=jkXDk&pd_rd_wg=IiMzj&refRID=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&th=1 connected with this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Vinyl-Outdoor-Extension-Cord/dp/B00OS7ETIA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525991665&sr=8-5&keywords=extension+cord. In fact some Skoolie people prefer using extension cords over romex entirely.

Our fuse box has a female plug coming off of it, allowing us to physically switch between sources - from battery to generator to shore power. To do 30/50 amp power is similar, but you need a lot more stuff, and is like wiring a house. I basically just added a fuse box to an extension cord. You drill a hole through the side of the bus to mount the second piece. It's pretty cool, to be honest.

Any RV owner will tell you that water is pernicious. Skoolies are the same way. You need to caulk your bus yearly - or at least go over it and look. We replaced the running lights, and did a wonderfully poor job of it, and I didn't caulk it. Then we walked on the roof, which the metal parts had no issue with, but the front of our bus is fiberglass and it separated from the metal, allowing a leak point.

Honestly, a cleaned and then painted roof (using Henry's RV paint for example) will make life very easy. You know how you can get by a couple years between coats of paint on your house? And how house roofs can go 15-30 years? Well, imagine if you drove your house around. It will need some attention before then. Just keep a can or three of silicone or paintable caulk on hand, and you'll be good.

Also, a very handy (if ugly) thing to get is butyl tape. Overpriced version is called flex seal, or you can hit up home depot for the roofing version. It's got a silvered back, and it's great at sealing holes... and sound proofing.

I no longer can put links in as words? I dislike the new reddit layout.

I believe the Sunjoe also has a bit stronger motor.

One thing I STRONGLY recommend when getting this is to also pick up a 100ft 12 Awg (gauge) extension cord, and a GFCI-connector for it to plug into your house.

The GFI is there so that if you accidently hit the extension cord with the unit, you'll be protected by the GFI.

The reason for the heavier duty extension cord, is two fold: 1.) Sunjoe requires 12awg for 100ft runs. The second, if you ignore this, the motor will overheat and you will reduce the life span of the unit.

Recommended GFCI

US Wire and Cable 74100 Extension Cord 12awg, 100ft Yellow I bought this one.

Southwire 100 ft Yellow Extension cord 12awg This one is cheaper, but I can't find much information on it as far as the shielding goes.

I also bought their extension cord spooler for like 5 dollars or something crazy cheap, and it's... well it's super cheap, but hey it holds the extension cable just fine.

Sure you can get a 12awg extension cord with the GFCI built into it, and save some money, but I like having them separate, and that way I can make sure that the GFCI portion is up against the house and not in the yard, since it doesn't do you any good if you hit the cable behind the GFCI.

Thank you, very helpful! Sounds like it may be best to charge from a standard 110 outlet at 3-4 miles per hour of charge, and swap out the dryer plug if I ever need some fast charging. Thanks for finding the name of the plug too, it was driving me crazy!

I'm a bit confused about "adapting from 10-30 to 14-50 is not allowed", wouldn't I be able to use something like this as an adapter? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VWGVQDF/ref=asc_df_B06VWGVQDF5012319/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B06VWGVQDF&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198064502357&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6825028765288310841&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060414&hvtargid=pla-319132250762

Thanks again for the help, really appreciate it.

Edit: With the adapter listed above, I would then buy two of these extension cords. That should work, right? https://www.amazon.com/NU-CORD-94561E-50-Feet-50-Amp-Extension/dp/B005GXQDHU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496441052&sr=8-2&keywords=nema+14-50+extension+cord

Thanks for your reply.

Would this cord be suitable?
US Wire 74100 12/3 100-Feet SJTW Yellow Heavy-Duty Lighted Extension Cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0020YKLQW

This is the ac I am using.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/spt-spt-14000btu-cooling-only-white/4485302.p?skuId=4485302

Pics of cord and side of ac.
https://imgur.com/a/2yFIk

Also, the manual says to not use an extension cord with the ac?
There is a test and reset button on the ac cord if that makes a difference.

2 and 3 are off and everything is already accounted for as far as I can tell.
5 and 6 are what I originally posted.

Does the circuit breaker make a sort of buzzing/crackling sound before it trips?
I had the ac on cause it gets to warm cause of the mining and I heard that and immediately shut off the ac.
There is a small humming now that I hear, but it could have been there before and I just didn't notice it until I heard the buzzing. Its noticeable enough that I think I would have noticed it.
Update: The humming went away after a while. Everything has been fine and I only run the pc and ac at separate times when mining.

How much would hiring an electrician for this cost? What would I look for when searching for one that knows what they are doing?
Thanks again, I appreciate everyone taking the time to help out and answer questions for everybody else that has no clue. :)

Thanks for all the advice.

The ceramic enhale combo looks great, I've shot over a message to them to check they have 230v coils, international shipping is available for a reasonable £6.39!

Part | Cost
---|---
PID | £18.99 | |
SSR | £3.88 | |
Enclosure 150 x 100 x 60mm | £6.90 | |
XLR Female | £10.79 | |
16 AWG Wire 2x3m Red and Black | £5.97 | |
Rocker Switch | £1.69 | |
Power Socket | £2.68 | |
Power Cable | £2.00 | |
ENHALE Coil w/ Ceramic Female Nail | £57.51 | |
Total | £110.42

That's my new part list so far saving £55.98, nice!

Will this PID also work fine? I'm really looking to build a nice sleak unit if I can.

2 600w LEDs and it doesn't exceed 850w on the whole smart plug.
power pictures

Edit: in the power pictures you can see I took extra precaution. Most everything in the tent has built in trips, but I don't trust those or my apartment. I bought these extension cords then routed every plug through one of those to my battery backup using a 1ft extension when needed. Finally, everything is going to a smart plug with energy monitoring so I can calculate what I cost the energy bill every month. This allows me to make sure I grow the value of what I spend on growing at least. So far, I'm still running about even at $40 a month.

I just got a 12/3 from Amazon. It just arrived, so I was feeling better, but then it's pretty inexpensive compared to what you're saying, so I'm a little concerned again, haha. The reviews seemed good, what do you think?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002HWRS6S/ref=sr_ph_1?qid=1464045585&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=50+foot+12+3+extension+cord

As everyone said, immediate win would be zip-ties or velcro to manage the excess length, you can get a 100M spool of twist ties from a dollar store or homedepot or online. For the more permanent cables like the power cables, you can fix them to the back wall with wire channels, for the power bricks, you can free them from the powerstrip with either a power squid or a short extension cable. Lastly, for multiple cords that are going in the same direction or through the same hole on your entertainment center, consider a cable sleeve to clean up the look.

All wired to Mean Well 100W PSU (which ended up being overkill - I could run as many as 15 and still have wiggle room):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010CKUDZO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022NH7G8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Mean Well provides 2x5V positive and negative terminals. These are split out via Wago Lever-Nuts using 12 gauge wire (overkill on wire gauge, but better safe than sorry):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q7WM3SK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756TDTDM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Finally, I just cut and stripped short runs of el-budigto dupont wire to connect runs from the APis to the Wago Lever-Nuts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GD2BWPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you have any questions or need more pictures, feel free to ask!

So amazing you too can own it for 17.60 with free shipping!

That and you can even get ones with the extensions built in they seem cluttered tho.

AMAZING

Check amazon for extension cords. They sell packs of 6/12 inch cords that you can plug into each outlet on a strip and then use to plug in any kind of accessory, like wall warts or smart plugs. It’s not elegant looking, but it’s the best way I’ve found to make use of every socket on a power strip, at least without getting a strip with outlets that rotate to give you more room.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Power-Extension-Outlet-Listed/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1538132865&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=extension+cord+for+power+strip&dpPl=1&dpID=51ySk%2B8E18L&ref=plSrch

>Materials:

4" x 24" x 3/8" (not 100% sure about the thickness) basswood for the sides.

1 large 3/8" (again, dont quite remember the thickness) sheet of plywood, at LEAST 12" x 20" for the outside triangles.

Light stand and wire

Two translucent yellow acrylic sheets Can be found elsewhere, but I couldnt find em around me.

>Tools:

Dremel Rotary tool with a number of attachments.

Scroll saw with different thickness of blades.

Epoxy.

Wood Stain

>Steps

Cut the wood to size with a scroll saw, print out your design on a piece of paper, and outline it through the paper with a sharp pen to indent it onto the wood, then draw with a pencil on the actual wood with your design. Use the rotary tool to cut holes into each section large enough to fit your scrolls saw blade through, fit blade through on scroll saw and carefully cut out each section (by far the longest process, took me about 7 hours.) Then sand your wood, cut your acrylic to size, stain it all, and glue together.

That's a pretty simple overview of it, but it kinda covers it for the most part. There are probably a lot more efficient and accurate ways to do a lot of it, but it was my first project and I used tools available to me, and thats how I went about it.

If you don't mind going the DIY route, you could probably come in under $100 for parts for the strips:

• LED Strips - https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-16-4ft-300leds-Waterproof-Flexible/dp/B00KYKEUXO/
  
• Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073QTNF9F/
  
• Wifi controller - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DY56N8U/
  
• Extension cable - https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-Extension-Cable-Color-ribbon/dp/B00J4HI746/
  
• Snap-on Connectors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CNYZ0NW/
  
• Channel for mounting - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LL2SLME/
  
  Instead of the flat channel, you might be better off with angled channel for mounting the strips above the cabinets, since they'll throw more light on the wall, which is what you'll actually see - https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Aluminum-Mounting-Installations-1901-V/dp/B00PJSSD7K/
  
  There's a ZWave RGBW controller but it's more expensive than the wifi one and can take some more configuration: https://www.amazon.com/Fibaro-Micro-Controller-Z-wave-Strips/dp/B00P1N68FW/
  
  If you get the snap-on connectors, I recommend putting a small amount of solder on all of the pads where you'll be connecting them on the strips, so that they make a good connection.
  
  As for the puck lights, you could probably get something like this and wire the distributor to the wifi/ZWave controller, instead of plugging it into the controller it comes with: https://www.amazon.com/Changing-Christmas-Furniture-Ambiance-Lighting/dp/B01N2I47VH/ref=sr_1_2

https://www.amazon.com/daylight-Bi-pin-halogen-replacement-equivalent-5packs/dp/B077Q4WCWT/ref=asc_df_B077Q4WCWT/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241869999306&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11880619207738113069&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9002051&hvtargid=pla-411526575340&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/Satco-Threaded-G9-Halogen-Socket/dp/B004JQWXLA/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1543245710&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=g9+socket&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Molded-8-Foot-Brown-54435/dp/B000UTE278/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1543245971&sr=1-4&keywords=lamp+cord

I didn't check the voltage/amps rating on the socket but just verify that it accommodates 120v, amps will be under a half, I'd imagine. That little light should be pretty bright but if you shop around a little you'll see there are thousands of these DIY bulbs and sockets on Amazon and ebay.

You should only need a power cord, the Mac Plus power supply is inside the computer case. The cord you need is the same type commonly used for electric kettles: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Tex-Kettle-Power-Cable-Mains/dp/B003U798T4. Check the spec labels on your Mac to verify that the power supply is compatible with UK 220V voltage (it will be if it was bought from a UK dealer and is not a US 110V import).

Toss out that battery; you are lucky if it hasn't leaked. I think its only purpose is to power the clock circuit to maintain the date & time. A replacement might be expensive (like > £20 expensive) and it will work fine without it (but you'd need to set the date/time each session manually). It is a 4.5V alkaline PRAM, the Panasonic PX-21 camera battery is an example. Some people have whipped up home-brew alternatives using ordinary batteries.

Some useful websites: lowendmac.com, 68kmla.org. Great forums for chatting with other Mac Plus owners and asking questions.

That looks like a lamp. Just purchase a lamp cord replacement like that one and replace the whole thing. Super easy.

Get something like these: [UL Listed] Miady Short Power Extension Cord Outlet Saver, 16AWG/13A, 3 Prong (10 Pack, Black, 8 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9MCTGL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EnMzDb40GBPVA

Those are US, but hopefully there are some for your plug format. Perfect for power strips.

Okay thank you. I think I understand.

What do you think of the device being sold to accomplish this? I posted it above, it's this? There's a few of that sort of thing that I found...

Thanks so much!

There is no easy way. Your best idea, is either routing power and putting an outlet closer. The other which isn't perfect, is running a extension cable up from your area along the wall near the ceiling and directly to the light house.

Looks like you'll need something like 26.5ft (you get about 5 with the light houses so keep in mind) of extension.

35ft extension cord on amazon for 11.88

Yes, it is fine with a thick gauge cord that is not worn out. Just be careful, because getting careless with it can cause a fire like with any high powered device.

I've been using this 100 ft cable for two years now. I went pretty thick on the gauge to help ensure safety, and it also helps lower losses. Thankfully I'll finally get a garage tomorrow, but this has served me well, allowing me to charge from my apartment every night I got a decent space.

Agreed, labeling them is the best way to do it, even when they're plugged in. For my wall warts, I have them attached to a power strip with these 1ft extension cords so I can actually fit more than one in a strip. All of my electronics I don't use very often (old video game systems, VCRs, old towers, etc) get plugged into one of these power strips so they don't leach power when off. Each switch has a label for the device plugged into it and each cord plugged into it is also labeled. I have all the extenders labeled as well. This way no matter where I am in the power chain, I know what's plugged into what. The only thing that isn't labeled is the powerstrips ...yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEJW0WQ/

Those are perfect keeping your power strip from being clogged up with wall warts and things like smart power outlets. They really come in handy, I'm already on my second 10 pack of them.

Just to emphasize: You really need a heavy duty extension cord to do this safely, preferably with 12 ga conductors. This would work nicely:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KKLMO8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1420349476&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41CDHU8QEsL&ref=plSrch

Also, a bit of dielectric grease and electrical tape will really help keep the connection clean.

Im pretty sure its one of thoes extension cords with a light on the female end, like this. It looks like someone just stripped the insulation off some romex and stuck it in the end of the cord, instead of putting a male end on it.

Here's what I used to do my kitchen. Works with Hue can be cut to length and comes out nice and clean. Did do some soldering but you can probably get away not having to. I used 1 ballast and ran a wire thru the attic instead of using 2 ballasts but that was just to save on cost.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ6CB2D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MU76VMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JKPLQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K6ZJVP4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XJS5B2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4HI746/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ML3Q2ME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I had a similar tangle underneath my work area. you could try something like these:
organizer / tamer to put under the desk,
a box for your surge protector, and
short extenders for power cables to help them all fit in your surge protector

does the record player actually care of the AC is the correct polarity?

you can buy a replacement polarized appliance cord and most box stores, or amazon, such as :

https://www.amazon.com/GE-54435-Replacement-Polarized-Prong/dp/B000UTE278/

you'll need to open the record player and hope that the circuit board (if it has one) has tagged which connection point is Load and which is Neutral.

the ribbed or striped conductor on the cord is for the neutral, also, that's the side with the larger prong.

you'll desolder the existing cord, and solder on the new one.

Probably not the fix for your situation, but I have way too many wallwarts and these are great https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEJW0WQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

For the sake of isolating variables, see if you still have the same issues. If you do, an iso brick isn't going to fix it either.

DC wallwarts have not been a problem for me since I found out about these. Someone here recommended them. Whoever you are, thank you! I'm just about ready to buy my second ten-pack.

I just did this, literally last week!

• I got this off Amazon for $18 shipped
  
  
• then you'll need a short extension cord, like this
  
  
• you'll want to cut the extension cord somewhat in half, and separate the three wires. You may actually want to cut about 8-12 inches of the wires off, unless you have extra wire around.
  
  
• I've made a wiring diagram to show you how I wired mine up.
  
  
• set the device (i think) by holding the S button and pressing up or down to desired temp. There is only a Celsius setting. I have mine at 19.9 which is 68 F. Once it is above 19.9 deg for 3 minutes, the freezer kicks on and it usually drops to about 19.2-19.4 C (66-67F). It goes on maybe once every 2 hours for a minute or so.
  
  It is pretty easy just takes a little patience.
  
  
  
  

This is what I think of when someone says "extension cord":

GE 12 Ft Extension Cord, 3 Outlet Power Strip, 2 Prong, 16 Gauge, Twist-to-Close Safety Outlet Covers, Indoor Rated, Perfect for Home, Office or Kitchen, UL Listed, White, 51954 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00178HJ6C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_VaCPDbJ7ZKZPX

Even though it says "power strip" in the title, which is what I'd call your linked item, I think they put it there for search hits.

Planning on using it to do the occasional 5/gal on the stove indoors. Looks like the mediocre reviews are not brewers at all, although the chrome flaking seems possibly problematic. At $8 shipped, can't complain though. Seems like I'll want to have one of these for switching and bonus protection: http://www.amazon.com/TRC-90026-6-012-Shockshield-GFCI-9-Inch/dp/B000XU782K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410263535&sr=8-1&keywords=gfci+pigtail

LOL nice.

A bag of these would probably come in handy http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEJW0WQ

Checkout something like these six inch extension cords. Bit more clutter but it'll free up the outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/Listed-Miady-Short-Extension-Outlet/dp/B07H9MCTGL/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=2NBCER3TJHFYC&keywords=six+inch+extension+cord&qid=1550412543&s=gateway&sprefix=six+inch+e&sr=8-4

These might be a better solution for whatever UPS you get. It might not look tidy but definitely fixes those wall wart issues

What he is saying is the following (ELI5 version):

• Every cable loses some power. The longer the cable is, more power lost.
  
• Wyze cameras (or any USB device) uses a 5 volts power supply. this is very low.
  
• wall outlets (mains power) uses 110 Volts or 220 Volts, depending on your country.
  
• If you run a very loooooong USB cable, most of the 5V will be lost on this looong cable, probably not being enough to power your wyzecam. (I know that this is wrong, but is easier to think like this and to this use it is a good enough analogy)
  
• If you run a loooong extension cord directly attached to your wall, you will have a much much lower loss, so, you should probably do that.
  
• by doing that you will be effectively bringing a outlet to near your camera, so be safe and do not put it where you wouldn't put a power outlet (like near the floor, on a open to the environment, by the side of the pool).

Thanks codon! While we don't have a product to reconnect cut off pieces yet, we do have extension cables without lights in order to get your Lightstrip to a different area while not lighting the section in between. We sell 10ft, 3ft, and 6inch lengths. Hope that helps a little, even if it doesn't quite fit the whole order.

https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cable-Philips-LightStrip-Plus/dp/B01LWLRA9W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480392771&sr=8-1&keywords=litcessory

Not sure what the needs of the specific machine are... but something like this might work.
http://www.amazon.com/Prime-PS010608-8-Feet-Replacement-Supply/dp/B0022NH7G8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416936558&sr=8-3&keywords=replacement+power+cord

However I might not be so willing to plug it right in unless you have some idea of what and how to fix these units. I know from some things I've read they can be a little temperamental and require some basic maintenance/care/lubrication.

They also do make these as well, and you can get them from just about any home center
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Straight-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding/dp/B000FPAN84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416936680&sr=8-1&keywords=replacement+plug&pebp=1416936666278

My brother has a vertdesk (just a different electric sit/stand desk) and he as a tripe monitor mount and got some power extension cables. Should be able to get you up and down without having things come unplugged, and "float" your monitors.

Also, how do you like the EvoDesk? Any good?

A bit late on this, but this was happening to my new (30 year old) JVC AL-F3. It just righted itself out of the blue the other day, so it's fine now. Still, if you haven't found a solution, I'd recommend buying an extension cord with an on/off switch, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W65LO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The switch on that is closer to where you plug in everything else, so what I did was just put the switch in the nook between my turntable and the side of my shelf.

The LightStrip Plus allows you to connect another strip to the end of the main strip. Third parties are selling extension cables that allow you to have a break between the main strip and the extension strip (like this one ). Just make sure the total length on a single controller is less than 32 feet.

I used to use the same method (with a wrist watch, pre smart phone days). It works pretty well if your times aren't long. Consider getting an extension cord with in-line switch to make it easier.

After getting sick and tired of looking at my watch, I started using these photo enlarger timers which is what I've been using ever since. Well, I have a digital one now but essentially the same thing.

As far as the vacuum, I've not needed one for my stuff but I don't do a lot of fine halftones or complicated index prints. If you DO want to do process or index prints, you will probably need the vacuum.

If the switch is rated for 120V and the requisite number of amps, and it's used with a proper enclosure, and it's assembled correctly, it's technically safe. However, even with all that, you probably void your Christmas lights' UL certification by modifying them. This may in turn invalidate your home insurance policy.

I would rather see you use a pre-built product like this or this or a timer or even a wireless switch.

Hey, sorry it took me so long to respond. Your wiring looks OK i think, although im not sure what the black wire is. A few things:

1. Are you sure the code isnt working? What it does is simulate a button press so it actually flips the pin on, waits .2 seconds and flips it back. So maybe its working and it just doesn't look like it?
   
   
2. If its not working can you control the pins through some other method? Wiring Pi
   
   What I did to fully test my code before I wired it to my garage door is buy a really cheap white extension cord from lowes like this and I cut loose and stripped one side of it and connected it to the relay. Then I plugged a lamp into it and turned the lamp on, and made sure I could toggle the lamp with the relay code. Also used wiring pi to test.
   
   edit: Also i noticed the warning about pins in use in your screenshot. Maybe try a refresh reboot to clear everything out?
   

yeah. I have been looking at those but im afraid having the outlets facing out like that will make it too deep. I can't find any good ones with the outlets facing sideways. I was also thinking about something that works like this, but with a hard angle coming out of the wall, and obviously 2 plugs at the other end.

Seconded. I use these; they work great.

Yeah, grab a UK kettle lead and you should be good.

If using monolights in the field w/o a battery pack (as if you need something else in your gear bags) strongly consider carrying GFCI pigtails for your equipment.

They are required where I typically work (industrial sites) and by OSHA, and I have a dedicated truck so the weight/bulk isn't an issue. Either way they are the cheapest health insurance you'll ever buy.

http://www.amazon.com/Ziotek-ZT1212542-Liberator-14-Inch-Extension/dp/B000EWVSZK/

I have those. They're absolutely wonderful for this type of thing.

Well you wouldn't want to plug anything into the recepticle because it's a switched receptacle. If you were to put a receptacle into the junction box and put a cord into the light ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0022NH7G8/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?qid=1451423201&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=Power+cord ) and use a cord grip like this one ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005GDFLAU/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?qid=1451420633&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX118_SY170_QL70&keywords=cord+fitting&dpPl=1&dpID=51msffi-e4L&ref=plSrch ) to hold the cord in there splice it up and your done. Another option is you could just take a piece of romex from the junction box into the light with 2 romex connectors and boom your done.

I use a couple of these surge protectors under my desk. They're amazing. The swivel feature is legit.

Also, if you have any power bricks that take up space, these are a must-have.

I use the following extension cord for 240v and happy about it

NU-CORD 94561E 50-Feet 50-Amp Rv Extension Cord

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GXQDHU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Mq-JBb5FTH84Q

One thing to look for is "six inch extension cords". Why? You know all those huge plugs for power adapters that take up two or three outlets on a standard power strip? Not anymore! Plus that bad boy into a six inch extension cord and all six outlets are usable again!

Super quick search...

https://smile.amazon.com/Listed-Miady-Short-Extension-Outlet/dp/B07H9MCTGL/

It's less than twenty bucks for ten of these.

Powerline adapters are perfect for what you're looking for. Do not plug them into a surge protector, they get weird. You can get either ones with outlet passthrough or without. I'd also suggest getting these to get that plug off the wall a bit.

Yeah sure. Here is a link to the 10ft cable. And it is made specifically for the Hue. https://www.amazon.com/Extension-Cable-Philips-LightStrip-Plus/dp/B01LWLRA9W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1477972367&sr=8-4&keywords=litcessory

Go on Amazon and get a pack of "plug saver"s or "outlet savers" get 16AWG. Something like this (but there may be cheaper, I just did a quick search) - https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Extension-Outlet-16AWG-13A-Listed/dp/B00CEJW0WQ

Pretty much from any hardware/electrical shop to argos or tesco. Its the same type your power supply on your PC will have. if your not in a hurry

Would it be as simple as I get this extension then just strip the end of the wires and split it in something like these connectors or would it not hold the wires in it?

power strip extensions

Your welcome.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=pd_aw_lpo_23_bs_img_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JQ3933NX5XB4F9V976TS

you’re welcome

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013H8VIEI

You're welcome.

I got a 50 ft 50amp RV cord and used it a couple times at 6.6kW. Overkill for a Leaf, hoping I can fully use it with the Gen3.

Etekcity 10 Pack Power Extension Cord Cable, 16AWG-13A, 3 Prong Grounded, UL Listed (Black, 1-Foot) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5RLACb2ZM4P2A

These make life way easier.

I'm also building up my gear. Here's some overlooked gear I've needed:

• power extension cord
  
• surge protected power strip
  
• cord straps
  
• gaffer tape
  
  [for your convenience](https://pluscompare.com/products/amazonbasics-16-3-vinyl-outdoor-extension-cord-50-feet-orange-vs-amazonbasics-6-outlet-surge-protector-power-strip-790-joule-white-vs-pasow-reusable-fastening-cable-tie-organizer-7-inch-black-50-piece-vs-tapeme-gaffers-tape-black-2-in-x-40-yards-10-8-mils-get-35-more-heavy-duty-gaffers-tape/B00OS7ETIA-B00TP1C1UC-B0154MS9Q0-B01G2FKMHM/ "extra video equipment")
  
  Edit: list format

Are your outlets grounded? if so, its not hard to swap out an outlet for GFCI (and you should anyway for outlets near water like the bathroom or kitchen). Alternatively, pick up an in-line GFCI pigtail

Yes, we use these:
https://www.amazon.com/Listed-Miady-Short-Extension-Outlet/dp/B07H9MCTGL/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=10LI592U1SCIL&keywords=short+extension+cord&qid=1557008455&s=gateway&sprefix=short+ex&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

Cord could definitely be an issue at 100 ft. There are a bunch of calculators around for how thick of a cord you need at various currents and lengths. This is the cord I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0020YKLQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

a/c unit linked in another comment.

Example: 50 ft 12/3 or 100 ft 12/3

12 gauge, 3 conductors.. Lop the ends off, join the conductors in the right manner.. not sure what length you're wanting, but it's an option.

EDIT: Less expensive option 100 ft 14/3 - the document also says they started with 14 AWG, so it will probably work fine for you.

Just a standard kettle lead goes into that, surprised you don't have a few lying around, they're used in monitors and things.

I'd recommend thicker gauge extension cables to support the 15amp circuit and heavy duty gaffer tape (don't use it on walls) to hold it down. Try to balance laptops and desktops, not just for electrical load balancing, but table space.

https://www.amazon.com/2883-Heavy-Duty-Contractor-Extension-Lighted/dp/B000KKLMO8

https://www.amazon.com/Polyken-Coated-Premium-Gaffers-Length/dp/B00DZ5V2IG/ref=sr_1_16?s=industrial&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1479774940&sr=1-16&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

Get the shortest cord possible. Maybe like this

Something like this would do the job

Etekcity Power Extension Cord Short Cable, Outlet Saver, 3 Prong, 16AWG 13A, UL Listed (10 Pack, 1 Foot) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4iK4CbDTAAR3M

Like the hidden cabinet look.. Now you just need a small UPS and some of these for those wall warts...

They make in-line ac power switches. You can either install them yourself or using something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Electrician-6-Feet-Extension-Outlets/dp/B000W65LO2/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=inline+ac+power+switch+iec320&qid=1573683036&sr=8-1-fkmr1

https://www.amazon.com/ClearMax-PWR18-12001-Prong-Power-Extension/dp/B013H8VIEI/

Thank me later.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1451235262&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=1+foot+extension+cord&dpPl=1&dpID=51chRXo62qL&ref=plSrch

Sorry for the super long link, but these will change your life.

I prefer these. I bought 4 5 packs a while ago, just to make sure I never run out.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EWVSZK?*entries*=0&*Version*=1

These also work well: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEJW0WQ

I bought a pack of 6 inch extension cords. I am surprised at how many times I have used them in other similar situations. Might have been these:

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Power-Extension-Outlet-Listed/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=asc_df_B00CEJW0WQ/

They are called liberators and you can buy them on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Power-Extension-Outlet-Listed/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/

You don't even need a new power strip just get a bunch of these power extension cords.

As an aside, Irma wasn't Cat 3 when it hit Central FL. It was Cat 2 down here in Fort Myers. I just got my cable and power back on today (and about half the county is still down) and my TiVo survived just fine. I missed a couple of recordings, big whoop. I couldn't even have bought a Bolt today.

OP is a whiner.

You can buy 1-ft extensions by the bag or singly. Amazon/etekcity or Monoprice are reliable brands.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105296-1-Feet-16AWG-Extension/dp/B01HGV7MII

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Power-Extension-Outlet-Listed/dp/B00CEJW0WQ

I remember reading that the cords are short for safety reasons, to prevent snagging, tripping accidents.

They make 1ft power cords, called outlet savers, solely for this purpose. It's going to leave a mess of cables though.

Shop power strips have outlets extremely spaced out. Obviously at the cost of space and price.

Like you said a system in place would solve this mess, but it's difficult getting everyone to agree on changing their standard. Relevant xkcd.

Or this https://www.amazon.com/2883-Heavy-Duty-Contractor-Extension-Lighted/dp/B000KKLMO8

You're welcome

You need these

there are solutions.

Etekcity 10 Pack Power Extension Cord Cable, 16AWG-13A, UL Listed, 2015 Upgraded Version (Black, 1-Foot) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_COU6xbQJYJEX3

I guess so?

Buy these and you'll have it when you need it.

Maybe these will work for you:

http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity%C2%AE-10-Pack-3-Prong-Extension-Approved/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1413082770&sr=8-5&keywords=power+cord+extension

There are power supplies you can get that come with a power button on the cord. I have personally had bad luck with those, resulting in low voltage warnings despite having a properly sized power supply. If you put a switch before the power supply you don’t have to worry about any of that.

Here are a couple of options that would accomplish this:

GE Grounded On/Off Power Switch, Plug-In, White, Energy Efficient, Space Saving Design, UL Listed, 15A, 120VAC, 1800W, 25511 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0113VTPSW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_USbaCb1YJNQ9Z

Master Electrician 6-Feet Indoor Extension Cord with 3 Outlets and On/Off Switch , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000W65LO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7VbaCb9Q114BB

Here ya go, same thing for less than half the price: https://www.amazon.com/ClearMax-PWR18-12001-Prong-Power-Extension/dp/B013H8VIEI

One of these would have helped get you the 6" you needed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEJW0WQ

I’ve see people use this...

https://www.diyretroarcade.com/index.php/power/outlet.html

This is what I ordered...

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Electrician-6-Feet-Extension-Outlets-x/dp/B000W65LO2

AmazonBasics 16/3 Vinyl Outdoor Extension Cord | Orange, 50-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OS7ETIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j432CbQ88F3EV

Here ya go.

Here is the desktop version of your link

How about a small power strip or a switched extension cord with multiple outlets.

https://www.amazon.com/US-Wire-74100-Heavy-Duty-Extension/dp/B0020YKLQW

A surge protector is NOT a extension cord. If you every work in construction/wood working/work with power tools you will know the necessity to have extension cords.

extensions cords are tend to have a schema of being yellow or orange.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Vinyl-Outdoor-Electric-Extension/dp/B00OS7ETIA

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1LVQLR/

THATS an extension cords.

https://www.amazon.ca/Belkin-BE112230-08-12-Outlet-Power-Protector/dp/B000J2EN4S

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-6-Outlet-Protector-2-Pack-2-Foot/dp/B014EKQ5AA/

These are surge protectors.

And most extensions cords as not known as surge protectors. They are different.

Or these.

I'd shop around, though, those are kind of expensive. I picked up a three pack at Target a while back for much less.

Here you go :)

you need to use these in that case

Ещё болгарка есть. Напильник. Правда, придраться могут в Мельбурне: таки порча имущества.

Есть короткие удлинители

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CEJW0WQ/ref=psdc_495312_t1_B075VJFCSS

I used this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006U1O978/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 with this power cord - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022NH7G8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.


I only paid $38 or something for the Evovle unit 2 years ago.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00178HJ6C/ref=s9_top_hm_awbw_b24qu_g60_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=0B1CFA0NRWVSBSEAN6MK&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=dc1d2038-c519-518b-a2d7-7c4425494781&pf_rd_i=495312

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEJW0WQ/

the extension cords

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013H8VIEI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

smell it

i have this 15 amp 25ft 12 gauge
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KKLMO8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Here is the mobile version of your link

Not really familiar with the van in question but are there any interior lights at the moment? You could always take off whatever covers the current light and hook up the LED strip to that. Very recently I hooked up few sections of an LED strip to my Camry by using the dome light circuit and took apart some of the interiors to route the wires around the car. I ended up putting light strips on the footwells of the front and rear seats, the dome light was replaced with some LEDs and there was a strip along the rear windshield. I used a 5050 LED strip and ~50ft of wires.It seems light the tools you have would already work, you would just need to find a circuit to connect to.

Here's the cheapest ones I've found:


http://amzn.com/B00CEJW0WQ

http://www.amazon.com/2883-Heavy-Duty-Contractor-Extension-Lighted/dp/B000KKLMO8

With out knowing your exact model to look the motor information up I'm not sure where your 15A draw on the motor is coming from, but if I had to guess its your full load amps, which is above your operational current. Any heavy duty extension cable will be able to handle your staring current which will be ~3x your FLA.

If your FLA is 15A you can use 12A rated cable, sense you can account for the duty cycle of your usage being below the FLA.

If it's that close it's only a matter of time before it falls and hits your leg, just buy a new one for $30 it'll be worth it in the end.

EDIT: The cord is cut, just buy a new cord for $15.

1ft extension cords should help with your power brick woes:

https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Power-Extension-Outlet-Listed/dp/B00CEJW0WQ?crid=258GGW5T5B8WR&keywords=1ft+extension+cord&qid=1538163414&sprefix=1ft+&sr=8-1-spons&ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa&psc=1

Or buy a squid:
https://www.amazon.com/Accell-PowerSquid-Surge-Protector-Power/dp/B00ABC1LE6?crid=ZYHW7B6S8HS6&keywords=squid+surge+protector&qid=1538163486&sprefix=squid+surg&sr=8-1&ref=mp_s_a_1_1

4x Four Light Vanity Strip - $51
4x lamp cords with switch - $27
1x Power strip - $5
Pack of wagos - $2
Total cost = $85
Total wattage for the whole thing is 16 60 = 960
Total wattage for each strip 4 60 = 240

Reason I'm recommending wagos is that most people don't know the proper way to use wirenuts so this will hopefully be easier for you in this case.

If you knew what you where doing you could build this at a cheaper price but given your hesitation to this project I'd recommend using a Four Light Vanity Strip instead of stringing together 4x4 lampholders.

At 100 feet long and 8 amps a 12 gauge cord will result in a 2.12% voltage loss. (3.18% at 12 amps)

This is the cord I use: ​https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0020YKLQW/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_P5fSDbFDW40W2

Could be a problem with the mainboard or power supply. Neither of those things are cheap or quick fixes, and for a problem as simple as "I need to turn it on via the power switch at the back", I'd live with it. If it's absolutely unbearable, like you've gotta crawl under the desk every time you want to turn the computer on, then I suggest getting an extension cord with a switch in the middle, so that you can have that switch you need in a convenient location.

Just buy a pack of short extension cables. End of problem.

Here's an example on Amazon.

Here's another.

Plug between the outlet and the wall wart, problem solved.

But that big brick would take up 2-3 slots on my power strip. I hate when manufactures make me plug in bricks. I had to get these to deal with that issue.

$16.99 right now, but they frequently drop as low as $13.99 for a 10-pack of 1 ft cords. Unless you need 10, I doubt this will be much of a deal at the moment.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEJW0WQ