Ok, I'll let others comment on the quality of your build list. However, after just going through my first build, I will give you a list of extra little things that you will probably need but haven't thought of yet because this is your first build. It's annoying to get all of your parts in just to realize that you're missing some battery connectors or you don't have a tiny hex screwdriver for some screws on your frame. You will probably need the following:

• Battery charger: you need a charger meant for LiPo batteries. A lot of people recommend the Turnigy Accucel-6 (it's what I've got). Note that this guy doesn't come with the AC adapter that plugs into your wall. Any simple 12V power supply will work. I use a 12V/1.5A adapter I found in a box that used to go to an old router, but you can power it with other things like a 12V lead acid battery or an old computer power supply.
  
• LiPo Charging Bag: I mean something like this. LiPos are known to ignite if over- or under-charged. I use one of these to charge and store my LiPos. I've heard of other people using things like old ammo boxes for storage. LiPos are fine when properly handled, but a simple LiPo bag could save your house if your charger malfunctions.
  
• Soldering iron: building a quad normally requires lots of soldering. You'll need one if you don't already have one. Most people recommend your soldering iron is at least 40W (the higher the wattage, the more heat it can produce). But I cheaped out with this 25W kit, and I haven't had any problems. If you don't get a kit, I would recommend getting some solder wick or a solder sucker so you can remove the solder if you mess up.
  
• Extra solder: it sucks to run out of solder in the middle of your build. You can pick up a couple of spools of 60/40 rosin core solder at RadioShack, and it will work just fine.
  
• Helping hands: this thing is great for holding things together while you try to solder them.
  
• Electronics screwdriver kit: you'll need a tiny screwdriver for screwing most things in your build. Not every screw is Phillips-head though, so get a kit that includes different sizes of hex and star bits too.
  
• Wire cutter/stripper: you will need this.
  
• Multimeter: you could get away without one of these, but they can give some peace of mind to know that you're not short-circuiting anything before you connect your battery and fry your flight controller.
  
• PDB: a power distribution board. This little thingy has solder pads all around it. The + pads are all connected together, and the – pads are all connected together. So you can wire your battery terminals to one + pad and one – pad, and all the other + pads will be 12V power and all the other – pads will be ground. These are useful for distributing 12V power to everything in your quad that needs it: each ESC, FPV camera, video Tx, voltage monitor on your FC, etc. The alternative to a PDB is a wiring harness, but I think those are kinda messy. That PDB link shows a 36mm PDB, the perfect size for the ZMR250 frame. (Side-note: the Crius FC you have in your list is 50mm x 50mm and is probably too big for the ZMR250 frame. I would recommend a 36mm FC like the Naze32).
  
• 18 gauge wire: it doesn't have to be 18 gauge, but that's a good medium size for most use cases on a quad. Use this for wiring a battery connector to your PDB among lots of other uses. Get both red and black.
  
• XT-60 connectors: these things. It's the same connector that is on the battery you listed. I would get a pack of both male and female connectors. You'll need one wired to your PDB to get power from your battery to your quad. I've also used these guys to power my FPV Rx and monitor with a separate battery.
  
• 3.5mm bullet connectors: these things can be soldered on to connect your motor leads to your ESCs. Some people prefer to solder their motors directly to their ESCs, but I like the bullet connector option in case you need to swap out a defective motor.
  
• Servo cables: depending on which FC and Rx you get, they may or may not come with servo cables. It might be a good idea to have 10 or so of these laying around. These things are used to connect your Rx to your flight controller, among other things.
  
• 5V buzzer: you might want a little 5V piezo buzzer connected to your FC to notify you of low battery voltage or to turn on with a switch on your Tx if you can't find your quad in high grass or something.
  
• Micro USB cable: a lot of flight controllers (like the Naze32 or the Crius) use a micro USB cable to connect to your computer for configuration. However, you are almost guaranteed that they won't come with one. You might already have one from an old cell phone charger, or you can pick one up at any electronics store. Notice that this is a micro USB and not a mini USB. Make sure you get the correct one, since a mini USB won't fit in the receptacle.
  
• Zip ties: get lots of them. Tie down your ESCs to the arms of your frame... tuck away wires so they don't get chopped up by your props... these things are used everywhere. I prefer black so they blend in with your black frame.
  
• Velcro: get some longs strips of adhesive-backed velcro. It's great for securing things to your quad that you take off often like your battery or your Mobius camera.
  
• Velcro battery strap: get some of these things for even more secure attachments of batteries and things.
  
• Heat shrink: used for insulating soldered connections. Get lots of this in a few different sizes.
  
• M3 sized screws, nuts, and standoffs: something like this is useful for securing your PDB and FC to your frame. I would get a nylon set, since nylon screws are a lot lighter than metal screws. Most of the holes on the ZMR250 frame are size M3, except for the motor holes. Those are M2, so you might want to get some M2 screws also just in case.
  
• Lanyard for your Tx: so you can hang your remote around your neck and pick up the pieces of your crashed quad with two hands.
  
• Eye protection: do yourself a favor and get some safety goggles to protect your eyes from dangerous things like hot solder and spinning blades of death.
  
  That's about all I can think of right now.

I've owned the Ender 3 for a few months now and have made a number of upgrades, both purchased and printed. Here's a list of what I have purchased and printed, sorted by importance/usefulness.

 

Purchased Parts:

1. EZABL - An automatic bed leveling solution that has worked really well for me. TH3D's firmware and documentation are top notch. Once I dialed it in I've had no issues with bed leveling or adhesion. Also note, TH3D is an American company and Tim, the owner, is even a mod of this sub!
   
   
2. Stepper Motor Dampers - A great way to quiet down the printer. My bedroom and office are connected without an intervening door and the dampers allow me to print overnight and still get get to sleep. Some users have had issues with stepper motors running hot with the dampers installed, but I've had no trouble at all, even after 16+ hr prints.
   
   
3. 5015 Blower Fan - For use with the Petsfang Duct, see below.
   
   
   
4. Assorted M3 Screws - If you're going to be making mods to your printer, you're eventually going to need different sized screws. Having various lengths on hand is super helpful when trying to mount a new part.
   
    
   
   Printed Parts:
   
   
5. Filament Guide Arm - This has helped a lot with keeping the filament feeding smooth and preventing under-extrusion issues. There is a more popular model on thingiverse, but I found this version to be stronger and more stable.
   
   
6. Petsfang Cooling Fan Duct - An extremely popular replacement for the part cooling duct and fan. This creates much more even cooling around the filament as its extruded, providing better bridging and better overall print quality. There is a version using a replacement 5015 blower fan, as I have used, and there's a version called the "Bullseye" that uses the stock fan. I chose to replace the stock fan because mine was starting to rattle.
   
   
7. Tool Holder - It sounds frivolous, but having the tools you need right at hand can be a big help in saving a print or performing trouble shooting. Definitely a must have.
   
   
8. LCD Rear Cover - Protects the circuit board behind the LCD, which is exposed from the factory. If you have children like I do, this is a must.
   
   
9. Cable Chain - Routs the various cables to their destinations in a clean way. Looks super cool. Not necessary, but definitely fun. Note, there is an X-axis cable chain setup available, but I found it made excessive noise and wasn't worth the trouble.
   
   
10. Fan Shroud - Protects the main board fan from bits of filament falling down into the casing.
    
    
11. Storage Drawer - A handy little drawer that slides in next to the LCD. I store things like alcohol swabs, razor blades, and other random tools in it.
    
     
    
    Future Upgrades:
    
    Spool Roller - One issue I've found is that the stock spool holder requires excessive force from the extruder to unwind filament. A replacement spool roller with bearings should reduce the friction significantly and produce more even extrusion.
    
    Metal Extruder - A common problem with the Ender 3 is that it fails to maintain proper tension on the extruder gear, which leads to failure to feed and poor extrusion. An all-metal extruder has been known to fix the issue.
    
    
    
    
    
    

I have been doing the same thing and really enjoying it! Here is some stuff I stumbled across when I first started learning...

Getting a full 3D file like the .stl's for OLKB and slicing them using a tool like slicer can be pretty challenging. The 3D models don't have holes and often the case walls wide enough to support holes for mounting hardware.

Someone else posted it, but I would suggest starting with http://builder.swillkb.com/ and then importing your output into Inkscape (free version of Adobe Illustrator like software) and cleaning it up from there.

Mounting holes are way more complex then they might seem. The prettiest version has a small hole in the top and bottom layer, with larger holes in mid layers in which you put a standoff, then screws in from top and bottom. I now just cut uniform holes and run a bolt down to a nut on the underside. Here is a pic of each for comparison:

Standoff: https://imgur.com/gallery/NSlai4z

Bolt: https://imgur.com/gallery/5BzbrCX

Depending on the size of the bolts, they can get in the way of the space bar, so I have also tried moving them around a bit...

https://imgur.com/a/bWiHICO

Last thought is that 1/8 inch acrylic looks really nice and is pretty easy to match to metric bolt size, but it makes a crappy plate because it is too thick for the switches to clip in. I would suggest getting at least one sheet of 1/16 inch stuff and cut a bunch of plates out of it. If you can find it, get 1/16 POM (Acetal Delrin), it makes amazing plates! I get my stuff from a local plastics supply company that sells scraps, and it is still expensive vs acrylic. Don't go for the Delrin AF which is industrial grade, just basic Delrin. If you want to splurge, try making a whole case out of the stuff, it is amazing like this one:

https://imgur.com/gallery/BBNHbuR

For mounting hardware, Amazon has a ton of great M2 and M3 nuts, bolts and standoffs in assortment packages. For the recent SharkPCB, since they don't have the under PCB standoffs soldered on, I just put 2mm M2 standoffs between bottom of the case and PCB and ran a bolt up through them to get that same height of mount.

https://www.amazon.com/300pcs-Standoff-Column-Spacer-Assortment/dp/B07B9X1KY6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=m2+standoff&qid=1572535069&sr=8-3

For feet, to get a really good 6 degree tilt on my cases, I use small blister bumps up front like those that come with each OLKB kit, and then these on the back:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KGKZFQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Post pics when you are done, it is always so cool to see what other people are building! Good luck :)

Long thread incoming

We're working on resorting our hardware now, but the goal is:

• 2 racks with 4 drawers each containing our most frequently used hardware (SAE Grade 8 1/4-28, 5/16-24, and 3/8-24 mostly, all of varying lengths, plus rod ends, bearings, and of course, nuts and washers).
  
• We have an "EE corner" with all our electrical stuff, and they have a few (neatly sorted) bins of electronics connectors and fasteners.
  
• Engine-related hardware will be stored with our engine parts after we do a rebuild this spring break and document all the fasteners.
  
• Everything that doesn't fit into the above categories will be individually bagged, labeled, and stored in an overstock box. If this box becomes huge, I'm considering getting myself a storage unit and donating a chunk of it to the team.
  
• As for electronic inventory, I'm almost certain we'll have our overstock inventory stored in an Excel spreadsheet. The problem with having your common fasteners digitally inventoried is keeping tabs on it (not everyone will adjust quantity on hand when they take some parts). A solution could be to have cycle counts generated weekly, and you could script your Excel/Google sheet to automatically warn you of low quantity on hand. I'm rambling now, but the solution would be to get a hardware sponsor and have them do VMI (Vendor Manged Inventory), which isn't out of the question......
  
  If you're looking to sort your current hardware, it will take a while. This took me two weeks of 3-4 late nights in the lab after finishing my work for the day, and that was just our random bin. Still have washers to sort, as well as the fasteners already in our rack of drawers.
  That being said, I'd highly recommend getting a thread checker to accurately distinguish between different fasteners. BoltDepot.com has a lot of info on fasteners as well as printable fastener sizing charts (really useful for sorting washers).
  
  Best of luck!

1. This grey shirt!
   
2. The guys on this CD cover look like falling drops of rain. Plus there's lots of water.
   
3. Japanese Green Tea Kit Kats!
   
4. My mom was so impressed with the wigs she got me that she wants one of her own.
   
5. You've probably read this classic but it's my favorite book. Even from a non-romantic literary standpoint, it's genius.
   
6. How about an MP3? No shipping lol
   
7. Terry Pratchet is probably the most hilarious writer ever and if you've ever owned a cat, or love cats, this is just amazing.
   
8. These nails. They would actually be annoying to wear but they're so cute!
   
9. Oldboy. Perfect action/revenge/mindscrew movie. It's so captivating and well done. I haven't met anyone who didn't like it.
   
10. Instant fire starter. One way to get rid of the undead is to burn them to ashes and this spiffy thing will light you a fire in a jiffy.
    
11. This sewing machine. I've always wanted to make my own clothes because there aren't enough cute US styles. Most fashions these days are more sexy than sweet. I'd make a boutique for feminine, cute, Lolita, Gyaru, and Gothic styles. But first I'd have to learn how to sew, haha.
    
12. FACK. And it sounds so good too!
    
13. Sewing Machine from before for the same reasons
    
14. ICE CREAM MAKER
    
15. Gold studs are super tiny
    
16. Vanilla Boubon Extract. Yummmm
    
17. Kitty Stealing Coins :3
    
18. Need to know how to make lunches for school, don't I?
    
19. Hime Gyaru Wig. I'm getting more and more into Japanese fashion. My goal is to look a little like this.
    
20. Majestic. Classy. Daring. Beautiful. So many uses.
    
    fear cuts deeper than swords
    
    This was so fun to do! :D

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

• Lighting
  
  • T-5 Grow light (came with 6500K bulbs)
    
  • 2700K bulbs
    
  • Grow light hangers
    
• Grow medium
  
  • Net Cups
    
  • Black Buckets
    
  • Black lids
    
• Nutrients
  
  • General Hydroponics Flora Series
    
  • General Hydroponics pH control kit
    
  • pH/EC/Temp Meters
    
• Grow tent
  
• Air ventilation
  
  • The only thing I ended up using from this kit was the cheapest part, the ventilation duct...
    
  • The fan from this kit is way too powerful for my setup because my humidifier couldn't keep up
    
  • I didn't use the carbon filter because I'm not growing weed.
    
• Water Distiller
  
• Humidifier
  
  • The cheaper the humidifier, the better. I first bought (and destroyed) one that had some sort of digital switch, so it would always be in the off state when you first supply power to it, meaning you can't turn it on/off with just a relay.
    
• Plumbing
  
  • Aquatec 8852 booster pump
    
  • 2 Gallon accumulator tank
    
  • Pressure relief valve
    
  • Tubing
    
  • Inline Pre-filter (Sorry they must have taken the product down...)
    
  • Misting nozzle T's
    
  • Tube ball valves
    
  • Analog pressure gauge
    
  • Misting Nozzles
    
    • Note that these nozzles are meant for WAY higher pressure systems (~1000psi) and I actually had to take out the spring for them to operate correctly, but they never clogged up, are easy to clean, and worked perfectly for me!
      
• Electronics
  
  • Raspberry Pi 3 kit
    
  • Humidity sensor
    
  • Pressure sensor
    
  • Water solenoid valve
    
  • 5V 4-channel relay module
    
  • Analog-to-digital converter
    
  • 24V to 12V converter
    
  • 24V Power supply
    
  • Resistor kit
    
  • Semiconductor kit
    
  • Circuit boards
    
  • Standoffs
    
• Wiring
  
  • 22 gauge stranded wire
    
  • 22 gauge solid wire
    
  • Power supply cord
    
• Connectors
  
  • Electronic Connectors
    
    • JST-XHP Connectors
      
    • JST-SM Connectors
      
    • Dupont Connectors
      
  • Plumbing Connectors
    
    • Bulkhead connectors
      
    • Quick-connect kit
      
    • NPT to quick-connect connector
      
      I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
      

I was recently approached by a guitarist to build a Meathead Deluxe clone. I had never heard of this pedal before, but after some research I realized it was quite an iconic pedal. Its the same pedal used by Troy in Queens of the Stone Age.

This pedal, simply put, is a modern voiced Fuzz Face. It uses silicon transistors that are biased wide open for a rich crunchy grind. It is bigger and much more aggressive than your standard Fuzz Face. To quote the original designer of the pedal, "If you want a true vintage sounding Fuzz Face and purchase a Meathead, you wont be a happy bunny. The Meathead is supposed to break things."

I decided to use this build as an excuse to experiment with a few new build techniques. Screenprinting graphics is fairly cumbersome for just one off builds and I wanted a way to apply professional looking decals simply and effectively. Other DIY builders on the forums have been using Waterslide Transfers with impressive results... It was totally worth it. Its a very simple process and I think it looks very nice and tidy. I coated the transfer with a clear-coat once it dried for added durability. I would highly recommend this process to any pedal-builder. For better results, I think I need to wipe down the surface of the decal while it dries. I had a few water spots on the surface while it was drying that caused some minor dimples in the finish on this build.

I also wanted to find a better way to mount veroboard builds inside the case. With PCB builds, I typically design them to mount to the back of the pots and anchor in place that way, but its not always easy to do this with vero builds. I have seen some other guys use plastic standoffs in their builds and decided to try this for myself. These require a 1/8" hole to properly mount, so you will have to find a fairly empty "cut" to drill out in order to use these, but I think they worked pretty dang well. It makes the build look much cleaner in my opinion.

After the build was complete, I tried it out on my Bass. It was noticeably more aggressive than any of the fuzz faces i have tried in the past, but still sounded very musical. That being said, this is definitely a Guitar pedal. It sounds incredible higher up on the neck, but starts to lose some definition at the low E... Forget about even trying to play drop C with this on Bass haha.

The schematic I used can be found here

Sound clip can be found here

Picture of the cute little circuit

Gut shot here

(The photos are missing a resistor... Smallbear sent me 820K instead of 820R resistors so I had to wait another day for this to re-ship.)

I made this Pi controlled irrigation system. The goal was to make it as user friendly as possible. It is not finished yet. I had to get a working proto going as soon as possible because I moved to a different state and my parents are selling this house. Not to mention fall semester starts on Monday. I plan on working on this as much as possible on my free time and then make a guide and share my code with everyone so others can benefit from my work. If you want my current code and want to improve on it please PM me. Also, I would love it if you shared your version with me as I will implement it into my code. I want to share my best with everyone.

P.S. I did not document my code at all. I mainly hard coded all of this in the past few days since I was limited on time. I am also a noob on Kivy and this is my first big Pi project.

Edit: Below are the hardware

Landzo 7 inch touch panel - 40.88

Raspberry Pi 3 Model B - 39.99

32 GB flash - 15.69

DS3231 RTC Clock Module - 5.99

4 channel relay - 6.99

Uxcell enclosure - 9.99

M2.5 hex spacer screws - 9.98

Modified internal panel - 8.30

Total: 137.81

PS. Definitely could be cheaper. For me it sure was because I had some of the parts already available that came in a some sort of kit.

In my opinion, 90% of the standing desks are pretty much identical. They're all sourcing no-name, Chinese made legs and electronics (the legs are literally all over Alibaba). Even the tops are likely sourced from a handful of the same companies.

I bought legs from Automonous.ai and handmade a top (I'm into woodworking so it was a fun project for me). The legs looks like nearly everything that every other standing desk company is offering.

If you're half-way mechanically inclined: buy the legs from wherever you can find a good price. Go down to ikea and buy one of their tops. Screw the legs to the top.

The only thing you'll need to watch is making sure you don't strip the screw from the wood. I, personally, put in some threaded inserts to reduce the chances of rip out. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/E-Z-Threaded-Hex-Flanged-Internal-Threads/dp/B002KT43MU/ref=pd_sbs_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002KT43MU&pd_rd_r=STWHEH78NZ223Y0N8MPY&pd_rd_w=5TO6r&pd_rd_wg=1zLyj&psc=1&refRID=STWHEH78NZ223Y0N8MPY

I really do hope someone makes new/updated sliders and housings - it would be a game changer!

No problem at all - we are all here to help out and tweak the shit out of our boards :-) These are also available on Amazon.com but I bought one of these and two of these. I actually like the thicker one better and its more useful considering the size and length. If you do end up getting them, feel free to make a post or send me an update as I'd like someone else's take on Sorbothane!

I've been working on this table project for a little while now, and now just need to fasten the legs to the table tops. One issue that that these raw oak slabs were never planed more than the rough cut from the tree, so their fairly uneven, and even bow a little (don't think it shows in the pictures, though). For that reason, I need a way to level the legs so that the tables don't rock once their finished. Shimming the plates with washers should be easy enough to get the table level, but I'll need machined threads to run the fasteners into and out of (and then into and out of again) so that they'll still hold once it's all said and done. I've looked at a few different options for this problem, but aren't convinced any of them are ideal. T-nuts would work, but I think they might pull out since they won't be held in from the top of the table surface (not interested in that industrial look). These threaded inserts and these similar ones would seem to do the trick, but the reviews raise questions about the strength of the material in dealing with hardwood, as well as problems with the material stripping while trying to place them. Anyone have any suggestions/advice?

TLDR: Looking for fastener solutions to affix table legs to the underside of an oak slab that will allow adjusting to level the table.

Thanks for the solution. Though I did use standoffs that were maybe half as high as yours and added a fan mod on top too. Much better for long play sessions for sure.

I bought this kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B9X1KY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the fan I just used a spare one from an old PC, some clear RTV and an old USB cable.

Ok, so there is a LOT of bad advice in here. I will tell you what I would do as someone who has installed over 80 tvs in the past two years on a variety of building types.

1. There are studs. Drywall needs something to hold it up. What you're probably looking at is steel studs. They're probably at either 16, 18, 20, or 24" intervals. The only exception to this would be if this is an exterior wall or solid brick on the other side; in that case there might be furring strips, but that's unlikely, so I won't address it.
   
2. Use a magnetic stud finder to find the studs. This will work for both metal and steel studs.
   
3. Use this type of mount (it accommodates wide studs): https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Articulating-Swivel-600x400mm-PERLESMITH/dp/B078GK6JD3/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=tv+mount+wide+studs&qid=1574651505&sr=8-3
   
4. Metal studs are thin u shapes. You're drilling into the thin edges, which are approximately 1.5" wide. Use a very small drill bit (1/16), and drill small holes to either side of where you think the center of the stud is. As soon as you're able to push the drill bit in and hit hollow, you know you have edge of the stud. Do that for both sides, then you'll know where the center is.
   
5. Drill a pilot hole in the drywall where you want to put your toggle bolt.
   
6. Use a step bit to drill a hole in the metal stud, it needs to be 1/2" wide: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Drive-Steps-Titanium-Drill/dp/B07CXBGZQ8/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?keywords=step+bit&qid=1574651671&sr=8-11-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRUdPTlhPMlBXM0QmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2Nzk0MTIzVFA3M05YVkg4TTdMJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwNzM0MDMzOFEzMlo5WEZHMTBVJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
   
7. Use a snap toggle, which will open up inside the metal stud and then you can bolt to that. You can safely mount MOST tvs unless it's like 70" + or suuuuper heavy and old (like 55 lbs +). These are what you want to use: https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Zinc-Plated-Channel-Fastener/dp/B0051IBBUE/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=snap+toggle&qid=1574651856&sr=8-8
   
8. You'll need 4 snap toggles through the studs, one in each corner. Then put 2 more in just the drywall in the middle of the mount frame on the wall.
   
9. If you must use that mount originally linked, you can cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to span both studs, use snap toggles to attach that to the studs and then attach that mount to the plywood with the 3 lag bolts they provided.
   
10. Do NOT use any anchors other than toggle bolts. Remember that drywall anchors are rated for FAILURE STRENGTH. Meaning an anchor rated for 60 lbs has a safe working load of 1/4 of that, 15 lbs. Snap toggle are rated for 250 lbs in drywall only. Safe working load is like 60ish lbs. No other drywall anchors are remotely close to toggle bolts in drywall, and are categorically unsafe being used on an articulating wall mount (lever effect results on effective weight of tv being doubled at full extension).

Continuation thread (See first comment below for beginning)

Is That a Node in your Server Rack?

...”or are you just happy to parallelize me?”

Now onto the build for the server nodes themselves. These are pretty simple; again I went with the K.I.S.S. method of building here, and using the original HDD Caddies for the DS14MK2, I surface mounted the SBCs using these awesome double-sided adhesive standoffs. This allowed me to get the R-Pis and the like, very very closely surface mounted. This was an important element, since there’s barely enough space width-wise for anything too thick (that’s what she said).

It took me a few iterations to find just the right location within each caddy to mount the SBCs, but I finally got it down to a not-so-exact science. Each caddy/tray now comes with a naked (ripped off the plastic shell) 48vdc -> 5vdc Gigabit Active PoE Splitter, which conveniently has a micro usb charging end for the R-Pi power.

Additionally, some of the nodes also have a “UPS” battery backup system — ahem, basically it’s a USB Powerbank 3200mAh, which gets power from the PoE splitter, and then gives that power to the R-Pi’s. Nothing fancy.

Oh, some of the nodes also have a real fancy Movidius Neural Compute Stick from Intel. Cause, you know. Neural Networks and stuff.

• Each node is a separate unit, which processes data and vomits results back to the main rack server.
  
• Each node has its own UPS, Operating System, and is inter-changeable with others in the array.
  
• Each SBC in the node can be spiffed up with additional hardware, such as a sensor shield/hat (temp, humidity, light sensors, et al).
  
  Note: everything in the caddy gets mounted with heavy duty double-sided adhesive tape. This makes it easier to replace/reposition/remove certain parts if needed later on.
  
  
  Reference Photo
  
  Reference Photo
  
  Reference Photo

Great questions.

Yes, I found these great brass knurled thumb screws https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005RTF0NQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and threaded inserts https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00207NF6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for the pivots. I thought about a soild pin but that may interfered with anything larger than a letter.

The inner top corners and bottom back panel are angled to give swing clearance from the outer box.

I played with lots of wood blocks and inner catch ideas but settled simply on 2 small brass nails that I insert/remove to mount the outer box to the wall. The are definatly strong enough to prevent it from "over opened".

I ended up spending a lot o time finding the right pivot point but found a place where its nicely balanced. Its stays shut when its shut and open when its opened.

Looks like the brass threads are something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-Insert-Internal-Threads/dp/B0026GZU0Q/

3/8" - 16 looks like the right threads, check with your faucet manufacturer though.

Tool this:

https://www.amazon.com/Z-LOK-Drive-Tool-Optional/dp/B00209X86W/

​

This is neat, but it does assume you have some tools to make the handles look good. You're resawing the wood with your table saw and getting accurate length cuts with a chop saw. These tools are expensive to own and take up a lot of space.

I think it would be really cool to have a wood laser to put a design on the handle, or I guess you could paint them with chalk paint and change them as you see fit. I will probably do this because I need some better labeling on my keezer.

I bought that same card from Overclockers UK and it's terrific, it was the first one I've ever bought/used so didn't really what to expect for £150.

Also just bought Articlean set off Amazon for a £10, it comes with the 3.5g tube but the Hyper 212 Evo should come with thermal paste anyway.

Also maybe consider ditching the sound card and going with the Asus Maximus Hero/Ranger motherboard it has better on board audio, I would imagine at least as good as the sound card you were looking at.

Rest looks good!

Earlier I made a practice station for a set of 6 locks, but it was uncomfortable to hold in my lap while I watch TV. So I made a couple of these small holders in an hour or so. There is a brass insert for the screw, so these will last forever, and the screws will turn easily.
I would recommend making these before you try to duplicate the big rig.

I used the E-Z Lok 1/4-20 brass inserts. You can use thumb screws or knurled screws (as shown in the picture). Thumb screws are available at nearly any hardware store.
The special tool I used to screw in the brass insert is shown here, but some people may want a driver bit.

I rounded off the edges using a router table, but a sander can be used. The slot can be cut with a table saw or a small dovetail or gent's saw.

I didn't apply a finish yet, as I wanted to use them for a while. I can do that later. I used oak for these holders.

The parts can be purchased here. here. here or here and the T-handle wrench I used is available here.

Some tips:

• Drill some small pilot holes and make sure they line up because the holes from the side and top have to intersect.
  
• The large hole may cause tear-out, so you might want to drill from both sides. (That's why a small pilot hole is useful).
  
• Make sure you drill the proper size hole for the brass insert. I have 3/8" marked on the bag to remind me.
  
• When you, ah, insert the insert. make sure the slots for the screwdriver face out, so you can remove the insert in case it gets messed up.
  
• I find the T-handle wrench is easy to control and to make sure you hold the tool at the right angle. If it's tilted, the insert may not go in easily.
  
• Be prepared and have extra inserts, in case you mess up.
  
• If you use a hard wood like cherry (like my practice station), you may have to use one of the brass inserts to start the thread, then back it off (with a screwdriver) and replace it will the final one.
  
• Be safe and protect your fingers. Drilling the large hole into the block will cause the wood to grab and spin with the bit. I held it in a small vice. I also used a professional hold-down when I used the router table. Those pieces of wood are too small to be hand-held.
  
  Let me know if you have any questions.

Have a look at the bulldog extruder. It has a much higher clamping force on the filament. It does require you to have Marlin or T3HD firmware installed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FDSHVCN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It just works. There are a few gotchas that can be quickly resolved.

• The extruder turns in the opposite direction. It is nice that it removes the need for filament guides, but it does require you to modify configuration.h in the firmware. Toggle INVERT_E0_DIR
  
  
• Get a M3 bolt package. You will need at least 4 that are 16mm long. I bought this kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714FLXND/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as I am sure I will use them at some point.
  
  
• Prevent filament from getting wound in the extruder. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3121836
  This should also allow you to easily print TPU
  
  
• Replace the cabling attachment. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3243464

As requested, here's the composition of the rack:

• NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  
• TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  
• Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  
• Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  
• Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  
• 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  
• Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.
  
  Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:
  
  
• Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  
• 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  
• Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  
• Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  
• Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  
• Extra rack screws and washers
  
• J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.
  
  Useful things I learned:
  
  
• I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  
• I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  
• I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  
• Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  
• Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  
• Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  
• Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  
• Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.

Questions about liner material and lube...

For liner material, what acoustic differences am I going to find between: neoprene, sorborthane, and rather generic looking "foam" rolls? They're all pretty much the same thickness, about 2-3 mm.

For lube, I'm looking at: Permatex dielectric grease, krytox 205 grade 2, trybosis 3204 and trybosis 3203. What would be good for stabs, what would be good for linears, and what would be good for tactiles? And if possible, is there anything that's a good "all-arounder"? Aka, something that could easily work for both stabs and switches.

I had mine go out on two different Bronco's I just went to Pull-A-Part and ripped another one from there, took it apart and replaced the little plastic spacers. They have the spacers at autozone, and i did have to grind them some but they worked great. I also suggest getting some Wago clips for the wires, it makes the install and removal a lot easier.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-412-221-413-221-415-Assortment/dp/B018MGMFDI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542299192&sr=8-3&keywords=wago+clips

​

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-747-412-Window-Lincoln-Mercury/dp/B002ZTIKF6/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1542299151&vehicle=1990-54-633-646--30-11-8-1773-1017-8-2--142-1-0&sr=1-1&ymm=1990%3Aford%3Abronco&keywords=plastic+window+motor+replacement

Depending on how much weight you're talking about hanging it's usually best if you can find a stud to directly screw into.

In absence of that being an option, self drilling drywall anchors are the next best option. You could use something like THESE to go directly to where the old smaller anchors it appears you have were at.

No problem!

1. 5mm
   
   
2. Yes, M3 for all holes, I used the Parvum modding cubes to build the case structure, and for mounting components I used these nuts inserted into the acrylic by applying heat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y20YLKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - you can see some tips about how to insert these nuts in the SFF Forum post
   
   
3. It's super sturdy. The only fragile part would maybe be the logo on mine, but in general I think it's perfectly safe to travel with this case.

You don't need studs. I installed mine in drywall using these they are amazing and super easy to use. All I need is a little spackle to patch up the holes when I leave.

Yes, it comes with everything you'd need, but if you're going into drywall, I would suggest buying some better anchors like these, the ones they come with aren't the best.

If you plan one making it mobile, maybe look into some tripod mounts, the bases support a standard mount.

How you will mount the motherboard: Adhesive motherboard standoffs.

​

Fan mounts? Some double sided foam tape, OR! Technic shafts through the screw holes in the fan, holding the fan in position on the shafts with those couplers that slide (but tightly) along the shafts. Use the existing IO shield (if you care about that) and sandwich it in place between thin lego pieces. Easy lego solutions to all these problems.

I got that advice too when I asked around during my own tap handle project and after checking around a bit more, I don't think it is correct, at least not for these inserts which are a little different that the ones in that video.

OP /u/darthKOTOR correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like you are using these inserts, and the manufacturer makes a drive tool that very clearly is designed to insert them with the slots facing out. (Though the method OP uses with the bolt and two nuts drives them much better).

I took a photo at the time illustrating how different the two threaded inserts are. On the right, just one from Home Depot like in the video you linked, and the left is the E-Z Lok brand. Note how different they are. I can definitely see the HD type variety having the slot pre cut the threads like in the video you link, but in the E-Z lok brand, the threads don't even cross the slot in the same way so they don't really work like that.

So I've heard. I'm going to buy some new thermal paste as well, is this a good kit do buy do you think? Looks like a good deal to me.

Just go directly into the sheetrock and I like to use the "screwable" anchors like these:


https://www.amazon.com/Drilling-Drywall-Plastic-Anchors-Screws/dp/B01FCZ8I3I/ref=zg_bs_6906598011_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XG17A75N5E2MX0RSWBGE


They're super easy to install and no need to drill.

I highly recommend getting a set of nylon nuts, bolts and standoffs. Great for quick crash repair and variable spacing of plates. They can be used as sacrificial parts so you don't break your arms or frame in hard crashes.

Also, extra servo connection wires, miscellaneous battery plugs & adapters, extra wire, hand tools for working with M2 & M3 hardware.

When you do get FPV going, right angle rp-sma connectors and stubby cloverleaf antennas for the video transmitter.

Just a few of the things I found useful.

If you have the money why not upgrade? You might be dissapointed with the games though there is basically non out at the moment.

Don't send your ps3 to sony 150$ is too much to fix the ylod and im guessing eventually you'll be upgrading to the ps3 in the upcoming months anyway.

If you want to fix the ylod yourself it's quite easy here is everything you need:

http://digiex.net/attachments/guides-reviews/console-guides/playstation-3-guides/5344d1284624453-gilksys-playstation-3-ps3-yellow-light-death-ylod-fix-repair-guide-ylod-fix.pdf

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-Paste-Articlean-Cleaner/dp/B003VRBPAI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1411939168&sr=8-2&keywords=arctic+silver

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Am-Tech-1500W-Hot-Air-Gun/dp/B002VJO70W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1411939212&sr=8-4&keywords=heatgun

That's around 25 quid to fix it yourself, pretty cool.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKH3HT8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The other one linked is really pricey for what you get, this one is 2.5x as many for less. It's the kit I've got, it works really really well. Order this at the same time

I use them for tons of my prints now, put a small M3 screw into the knurled brass fitting and hold the screw with needlenose pliars in one hand. In the other, press your soldering iron into the hex hole in the top of the screw (should be a short screw). This will heat up the knurled fitting and help you put it in straight.

Here's a couple photos of a couple of project boxes I made

I use these 2 options for my 3D printed taps. Id do a few tests to see what diameter hole gives you the best fit. Make sure you leave enough body around the holes so you dont crack the handle.

​

AJS Beer Tap Handle Standard Ferrule and Hanger Bolt : I use a 3.9mm ⌀ x 23mm hole with at least 3 walls and glue.

​

E-Z Lok 400-6 Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 3/8"-16 Internal Threads, 0.625" Length : I use a 7.4mm ⌀ x 17mm hole with at least 4 walls and glue.

I make and install curtains for a living, this is my time to shine!

First things first, other posters are correct that you’re going to need to patch the drywall and use drywall anchors for your next attempt. Do not use any of the screws or anchors included with the curtain rod, you need to get the right hardware for your wall which probably means longer screws as well as better anchors. These are the kind of drywall anchors we use.

I assume you’ve got premade curtains, which comes in standard lengths. The previous tenants probably did the same, so it’s very likely that all the drywall in that specific rod height is majorly compromised. Is there any way you can hang your rod higher or lower and hem your curtains? Anchoring your rod into undamaged drywall (or even better, try to find the studs or header on either side and top of the window) and attach your brackets into that.

Lastly, do you have enough brackets holding up your curtain rod? We always include a center support bracket if the rod is wider than 60 inches. This helps distribute the weight better and keeps your curtain rod from sagging.

Hope this helps! I could give you a few more tips, but I’d need to see the kind of curtain hardware you’re using and the window you’re trying to hang it onto.

Can't speak for the Heavy-6 but I used a single layer , 0.125" thick, 4.5" x 12" sheet on my norbaforce.

I would recommend starting with a fairly thin sheet like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019GBG97Q

And trimming to the correct size. You can always add another layer on top if needed.

Interesting Fact: I'm filming a Reality Show this friday!
Sadly it's only a pilot and will probably not get picked up.

I could use this for a video that I have planned

Please pop my cherry! :)

Sure thing!

A lot of these were purchased on Amazon for this build, but I do a lot of electronics tinkering, and I usually grab this stuff from Aliexpress and just wait the 3-6 weeks for it to arrive in the US. I had one Pro Micro on hand, but needed two, so I just got the 3 pack from the Amazon seller below:

Pro Micros
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HCXMBOU

Bumpons
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACPT2LU

M3 Inserts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y20YLKY

Female Micro USB Breakout Boards
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0183KF7TM

RJ9 Adapter Kit (these can be gotten cheaper, but I needed them fast)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072HXNW3F

RJ9 Coiled Cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076J83H83

Silicone Hookup Wire (good looking and easy to work with)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RD76QD

Female Headers (just snap off and sand the broken edges)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B01DLX6RSQ/

I've found them a bit hit and miss, I used them on drawer handles, which may not be the ideal use case. One of 5 has already come loose. I tried to fix by shoving PLA fibres after it and melting a rim around, but no joy.

The surface area of the grip part is very small on the ones I have, and also the lines down the edge run lengthways, where if they have been crossways they'd have been like knurling adding some grip.

I got mine on amazon and ebay. https://www.amazon.co.uk/M3x5mm-Metric-Threaded-Insert-100pcs/dp/B00Y20YLKY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539132205&sr=8-6&keywords=threaded+inserts

I've started to (where possible) build little enclosures for nuts instead. It's a lot more hassle and less fun.

Any tips on the inserts welcomed (I bought a bloody load of them)

If you often play guess the thread one of these is pretty handy.
https://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Thread-Checker-Inch-Metric/dp/B003FJW0GK/

If not, go to the hardware store and get some metric and see fasteners in that diameter range to test fit.
Most likely a coarse thread.

They aren't drilled into a beam, I used anchors with the hooks. They're great and will ensure the hook wont go anywhere!

You don't really need to find studs for mounting the lighthouses, although that is the simplest installation. Since the lighthouses are fairly light, drywall anchors similar to these will be more than strong enough to hold them if the ideal location doesn't happen to be near a stud.

screw set.

Probably could use either. The recommended ones fit right into the heat sink fan, another set might sit over the fan and need to be a little longer?
Above is a simple kit.

Any kind of foam cut cut around the mounts/usb in the bottom of the case would help with that. I've heard sorbothane is really good but it's a bit pricey. Another popular solution that isn't foam is the shelf liner stuff usually used for kitchens.

based on the url I'm betting he was referring to these.

One of the other posts recommended something like this which would also be a good choice.

Is there a reason why something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370054-Toggle-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1510756607&sr=8-5&keywords=toggle+bolts

won't work?


These can hold a remarkable amount of weight.

Just make sure you screw into studs next time, or use properly rated drywall anchors.

https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SnapSkru-Self-Drilling-Glass-Filled-Fastener/dp/B0051IB6HW

Disclaimer: I work for the company that makes those, they are really awesome though.

These work great and are easy to use, just screw in the anchor then the provided screw
https://www.amazon.com/Drilling-Drywall-Plastic-Anchors-Screws/dp/B01FCZ8I3I

I have this and it's pretty good.

Here are some on Amazon, Prime-eligible. I'll probably get a larger batch too, but these are relatively cheap to play with and they get here fast. :-)

Those are good bolts, you need to hold them so they don't spin while being tightened. Use a manual screw driver, not electric. You might find toggle bolts easier to use. The trick is to tighten them enough to hold but not so much that they crush the plaster. Patch the old holes and drill the new ones at least 50mm away. The weight is limited by the strength of the plasterboard. I wouldn't want to do more than a few kg on a ceiling. If you drill and bolt straight into the metal studs it can hold way more.

I'm not sure if there are other manufacturers or not, but E-Z lock makes those - here on amazon. Those looks like their inserts for "soft wood" whereas they have knife thread inserts for hardwood. Reviews seem to indicate that the softwood ones do well in hardwood anyway and are about 1/4 of the price.

Don’t listen everyone freaking out about finding studs. If you have actual drywall and not plaster, then anchors are perfectly fine. I’ve had a 42” tv mounted to drywall for 8 years using 6 of these anchors because I’m German, and I like engineering overkill. Each one holds 50 lbs.

I recommend Sorbothane (amazon link). It does a really good job at absorbing sound, and will make a world of difference in a aluminum tada case.

You can use larger anchors like these:
https://www.amazon.com/HomeDone-Drywall-Anchor-30-Pack-Self-Drilling/dp/B01KVTW7H8/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1510633742&sr=1-6&keywords=drywall+anchors

OR Toggle Bolts like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370054-Toggle-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1510633819&sr=1-4&keywords=toggle+bolts

Pretty much all rack mount stuff. The box itself I made. You can get the AV Keystone jacks and 48 port plate at Monoprice. The rails, screws, additional plates and rack mounted power supplies from Amazon.

http://www.monoprice.com/category?c_id=104&cp_id=10426

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8630

http://www.amazon.com/Technical-Pro-PS9U-Supply-Charging/dp/B0057RL6DQ

http://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-6-SRR-Space/dp/B00JQYUI7G

http://www.amazon.com/Reliable-Hardware-Company-RH-RMSET-25-Washers/dp/B00JQYUAQU

http://www.amazon.com/16port-Blank-Panel-Keystone-Jack/dp/B00PEKNW2Y

http://www.amazon.com/kenable-Cable-Management-Universal-Cabinet/dp/B004HTHL20

http://www.amazon.com/CNAweb-Blank-Spacer-Mount-Filler/dp/B01B1T0RZG

http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-APV01-Space-Panel-Accessory/dp/B0002DV0CW

I had a pile of the keystone jacks from a previous purchase a couple years ago so I did not have to get a whole lot of them. The toslink keystone jack has a issue of popping out which is solved using a zip tie to hold it in.

I used this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084EXBFA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I pasted all of it to the case, then used an exacto knife to make it fit well.

The GPU is simply mounted to the wood with a screw like it would be in a case, there's a little support that I covered with silicone on the back end.

For the motherboard I used these and these.

I suggest these instead. Winston Moy makes some good points about using these in the added video.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KT43MU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcdAnUnX59s

Shelf liner gets recommended a lot

Sorbothane is the good stuff though: https://www.amazon.com/Isolate-Sorbothane-Acoustic-Vibration-Damping/dp/B0084EXBFA/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1481766863&sr=1-12&keywords=sorbothane+sheet

I've had this issues with a towel bar last summer. What I think you'll end up finding out when you disassemble the unit is that the screws that hold the bar into the wall have shifted or moved.

It's a big issue with towel bars because the weight of the towel(s) cause it to deform over time.

I fixed it by unscrewing both ends of the units and removing the screws that hold the bar to the drywall and reinstalling it with toggle bolts (see: http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-370054-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1453079586&sr=8-2&keywords=toggle+bolt). The toggle bolt will make sure that it won't shift over time, and it's super sturdy!

get the screw in type or toggle anchors and they will be plenty strong. people hang TV's using these, even without studs.

if you can get one stud, they should provide enough resistance against the "pull out of the wall" force, even if the other side is only held in by drywall anchors.

These switches in most cases (I won't say all because I don't know) work without the network. If I unplug the hub it's connected to it will still turn off/on/dim at the switch.

Before I paired it with my Wink after the install I turned the switch on/off dimmed my lights worked great.

When I flipped my breaker on and off it remembered the last setting the switch was on even. (I'll test all this again tonight and edit if I'm telling you wrong)


If you're asking about reliability I'm not sure, these switches are all pretty new. My Leviton one has a 5 year limited warranty but who knows how long it will really last, which would be a shame considering how expensive they are!

One thing I did do in my house when I wired these up was bought some Wago Lever Nuts (https://www.amazon.com/Wago-221-412-221-413-Lever-Nut-Assortment/dp/B018MGMFDI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1479411696&sr=8-1&keywords=Wago+Wire+Nuts) that way if I sell my house I can pull my switches easily and don't have to worry that I may be cutting my wires too short. But also if my switch does blow up at least it will be easy to replace.

We use THESE when installing heavier drapery rods that can't be attached to a stud. Very sturdy, easy to work with, and removable in the future.

I've looked into the same thing about a year ago and came to the conclusion that sorbethane was really good for this. Something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019GBG97Q/ref=asc_df_B019GBG97Q5260449/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B019GBG97Q&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198070661729&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13695881069556684324&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028725&hvtargid=pla-320231501911

There are others, but this one works very well.

Nut & Bolt Thread Checker (Inch & Metric) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FJW0GK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_4lnUCbTMAM5TT

Yes it is, air bubbles will have formed and act as an insulator. This will make the entirety of the thermal paste useless and lead to sever CPU overheating. You will need to purchase some more.

Here is a link to some good quality thermal paste that will last you a while as while as a remover kit

Thermal Paste and Remover kit : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-Thermal-Paste-Arcticlean/dp/B003VRBPAI/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1483407008&sr=1-6&keywords=Thermal+paste

These are cheap, or you can order these and make whatever you like!

Hex drive threaded insert:

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002KT43MU/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bCvuKgN_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=A1IM4EOPHS76S7&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-11&pf_rd_r=1J9NGMDV17VNYSRTXD0J&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=14a4ac83-e830-5b74-a48f-8a1412c67169&pf_rd_i=11849271011

Connector bolt:

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/paulin-1-4-20x1-5-8-joint-connector-bolt/1000155731

​

Make sure whichever ones you get have matching threads

E-Z Lok 400-6 Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 3/8"-16 Internal Threads, 0.625" Length (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026GZU0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xrhzDbXQKTEEM

These are far better than t nuts, granted I don't know if this is the right size. Search for knife treaded insert of the size you need.

On the topic of wire nuts, what is the general feeling about the Wago Lever Nuts? I bought some, and they seem pretty awesome. They also seem well reviewed. Does anybody have bad experiences with them? Or are there any potential mistakes to avoid?

Edit: The reason I'm asking in relation to this post is that it seems like the lever nuts could potentially be much safer and less error prone. But I am not an expert, so I'd like to know what more knowledgeable people think.

Those are garbage. Throw them away. Get something like these instead.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FCZ8I3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_inmwCbW1JC7Z6

I think this is very similar to the insert used on the original build.

Nice! I left the middle parts solid and used a cordless drill to make the holes. I figured since I'll never take them apart, they won't become stripped. I've also seen serrated brass nuts pressed/melted in with a soldering iron. It creates a durable threaded hole:

M3x5mm(L)-5mm(OD) Metric Threaded Brass Knurl Round Insert Nuts 100pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y20YLKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-S2-BbYAV507F

I've used these to replace plastic anchors holding a couple of towl racks to the wall. they have a larger diameter than the plastic anchor hole and so far have held up well.

Well, I bought these, I'm going to pursue setting them up in the next couple of days.

Here's an amazon link if you want to make your own for the inserts.

Taken from /u/janisco 's DIY page on his website that linked here.

if you cant find studs, look into using these.

https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SnapSkru-Self-Drilling-Glass-Filled-Fastener/dp/B0051IB6HW/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1468292016&sr=8-15&keywords=wall+anchor

I once had my Super Star Destroyer and an older X-wing and Tie on there.

If I were you I'd go with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYRQVJF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_uBS2Db90R31CG

As there isn't studs, anything that protrudes from the wall is applying alot of pulling force to any of the top screws. The wider mount keeps it close to the wall and gives you a much larger surface area to mount the hell out of the tv.

Id also use something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Drilling-Drywall-Plastic-Anchors-Screws/dp/B01FCZ8I3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=drywall+anchors&qid=1574619039&sprefix=Drywall+an&sr=8-4

These are to give a bit more reliant hold to the drywall, not fantastic, but with enough of these (like 8-10 of them) with a static tv mount, you should be fine.

This all does depend on the weight of the tv and any angle you have the TV mounted at though.

If you're routinely opening the panel, I'd suggest getting threaded inserts like this that allow you to use machine screws rather than wood screws. If you take wood screws in and out enough times, you'll make the hole useless. The ones I listed are sized for inch threads, but you can find metric equivalents.

Also, as someone else mentioned, I'd seal the case with something to protect the wood.

If you plan on doing more than one, it's cheaper to buy them from amazon. Here's a 10 pack for $7.

yeah, since asking, I've realized I will likely need to just do that.... also: thread checkers... holy cow. something like this... I could keep this in the shop no problem. at first, I thought you were talkingg about the boards I've seen - hadn't seen one like this before... too cool.

It goes inside/in the bottom of the case. It's sandwiched in between the case and pcb. Link here- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084EXBFA/

I've been meaning to shoot a typing video so people can hear the difference. I have it installed in the exact same case you used for your build and it sounds 100X better.

use threaded inserts instead of trying to thread into the print it's self. I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y20YLKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just look on Amazon for threaded inserts in what ever size you want. I am using the ones I posted along with nylon screwed so I'm not conducting electricity from what ever I am fastening down. I do have stainless steel ones I use too for parts that need a stronger fastener.

Check out this post from 3Dhubs on threaded inserts: http://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/how-assemble-3d-printed-parts-threaded-fasteners

3/8"-16 Internal Threads, 0.625" Length

If you google around, the hardest thing about the insert is getting it straight, which, if you don't have access to a drill press, is problematic. As madmatt suggested, a way around this is to drill a slightly bigger hole than needed, add some JB Weld and then add the insert into your handle, place on your faucet, straighten and let cure.

NOTE: You need to close the top of the insert so weld compound isn't getting into the inside of your thread -- you can superglue a circle of some aluminum sheeting or similar to the back hole to close it up. And, generally, just be careful -- you want to weld the insert into the handle, not to your nice shiny perlicks.

• I purchased http://www.amazon.com/Buddy-Christ-Statue-Dashboard-Driver/dp/B000AP5974/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345173521&sr=8-2&keywords=buddy+jesus but I think it was about $7 when I purchased it.
  
• Then I got a table leg from lowes and stained it with a nice mahogany stain I had lying around (same stain as the kegerator wood).
  
• Drilled a hole in the bottom of jesus and used gorilla glue to hold it in place.
  
• Drilled a hole in the table leg and used (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026GZU0Q/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00) from amazon for the tap handle thread.
  
  Did a similar process for the lightsaber tap handles.

You need these or these.

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370054-Toggle-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ

This would be my guess

http://www.amazon.com/Bolt-Thread-Checker-Inch-Metric/dp/B003FJW0GK

You can mount it directly, but should use stand offs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R4ZT1FY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_dxvPDbXGHQF41

Here is the mobile version of your link

I bought this shallow mount rack to house everything, these rack shelves, and this hardware pack. It comes with a lock and two keys - very convenient for when everyone's gone from the house or when we throw a rager.

I use a combination of these into the stud and or in the void for everything from my mounted Tv's to a bike rack.

For the stud portion of your mount:
FastenMaster Headloks
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001OEJULG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497897416&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lag+screw+spider&dpPl=1&dpID=317en472JRL&ref=plSrch

And these in the void between studs:
Toggled SnapToggler
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051IBBUE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497897314&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=toggle+bolts&dpPl=1&dpID=410A7FjjAcL&ref=plSrch

You could use some of these and these

I'm not sure of the brand of the insert but it's the kind with knife threads. I made a simple inserter tool with a 3/8" bolt.

I screwed these into the top:

E-Z Lok Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 1/4"-20 Internal Threads, 0.500" Length (Pack of 25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00207NF6W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Then I put 1/4 inch hex bolts through the holes in the legs into those inserts in the top. If the wood expands - which it would do widthwise, not lengthwise - the bolt has room to move within the hole in the leg so that it doesn't crack.

Huey from Top Clack has used this and did a typing video. It cut down the sound quite dramatically.

$30 on Amazon, no work required.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FJW0GK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No OP, but they are called Threaded Inserts.

Available probably at any hardware store or [Amazon](E-Z Lok 400-4 Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 1/4"-20 Internal Threads, 0.500" Length (Pack of 25) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00207NF6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2HLmDbKA5T2RF)

Why wouldn't you ever be able to disassemble it? If you back the screws out to disassemble it, the holes will still be good. Depending on the hardness of the wood and how rough you are with it will determine how many times you can re-use the holes -- and even if the threads chew up the wood, it's really easy to just drill out the hole and glue a new hardwood dowel in and then start the process again by predrilling holes into the dowel.

Alternately, a threaded insert will let you screw something into the wood once and from that point forward you're screwing into metal. It'll last a lot longer, but you'll have to get different screws to attach the pedestal to the surface.

Maybe you've already thought of this, but it's possible you're hitting a screw or nail. I know you said the stud finder doesnt say metal is there.

Do you face the same issue if you move the installation up/down 3 inches? Are your curtains light enough to use these drywall screws?

(not moly screws.... Dont ever use molly screws).

Edit: still trying to figure out formatting in Reddit

Switch out the wire nuts for wago lever nuts..they take up a lot less space

Wago (25) 221-412 (25) 221-413 (25) 221-415 Lever-Nut Assortment Pack

If it was critical, a professional would probably have that bolt called out in a drawing somewhere. If not, these come in handy - essentially an organized version of trying different screws until you get the right one. Completely legitimate method - just be careful to not cross thread.

To kind of separate my post from your questions here are just some recommendations when kegging.

• buy the o-rings in bulk. You'll see the ones from my spreadsheet that came with at least a hundred of each. silicone for gas side, buna for beer side. Dont need silicone for beer side really so you can go cheaper. But change them liberally. They are major causes for gas leaks and it sucks when you have a leak and lose a whole tank of co2.
  
  
• in regards to o-rings. always lube them up with some keg lube or food grade lubricants.
  
  
• buy a fish pump, carb cap, and a few hose clamps. This will make cleaning your beer lines much easier
  
  
• in regards to beer lines, dont listen to those calculators that tell you, 3 ft of beer line is enough to carb 12 psi. You'll have a froathy waste every pour. I use 4-5 foot lines for my porters, stouts or other beers that i keep around 5psi. 9-12' of line for mostly everything else. also, the OD and ID of the beer line matter.
  
  if i think of anything else, i'll update or make another post.
  
  EDIT:
  
  
• tap handles are expensive. Get some cheap plastic ones like i have in the album that i posted to start off with and if you're crafty, you can make your own with some of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026GZU0Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  here's a post i made a while back of one that I made. You can see some more on the bottom left that I made as well. https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewing/comments/4mz9tk/i_enjoy_making_tap_handles_and_made_this_one_for/

Start figuring out a clamping solution. The kit doesn't come with anything to hold your work in place. In my experience the double sided tape is awful. If/when the tape fails you'll break a lot of parts on your machine.

I'd recommend setting up your waste board with these inserts and buy a bunch of these clamps

More details in the imgur album, but here's a quick synopsis:

After having my kegs stuffed in a fridge with picnic taps, I decided it was time to build up a proper keezer. I already had kegs, lines, CO2 tank and regulator. So it was a relatively inexpensive project, aside from the freezer itself.

Here's the build list:

• Freezer - MagicChef 5.9 cu ft
  
• Temp Controller - Inkbird pre-wired (heat/cool)
  
• Taps - Perlick 301SS taps with 4" shanks
  
• CO2 - 4-way distribution manifold * Collar - Inner box: 1x6" knotty pine. Outer: 1x6 walnut, Danish oil natural
  
• 1.5" insulation foam sheathing
  
• Aluminum tape
  
  Already had:
  
• 5# CO2 tank
  
• Dual pressure regulator
  
• Beer and air lines, Corny kegs, ball lock connections, etc.
  
  
  The build:
  Most of the build was pretty straight forward. Make a box, drill some 7/8" holes in the box, etc. Adding the insulation foam was kind of a pain and got little foam pebbles ALL over the place. The aluminum tape really helped to keep the foam from breaking off inside the kegerator, and makes the rough cut edges look nicer. And on a functional side, should seal off air gaps and make cleanup easier.
  
  I ended up picking up some blind nuts that have the same thread pattern as the taps. They were about 5 bucks on Amazon for 10. You simply drill a hole in whatever you want to make a tap handle out of and thread in the nut. I took some leftover pine and walnut scraps and glued them up. The nuts are a challenge to get in straight, which took a few tries.
  
  The drip tray was a challenge, mostly because the drip tray itself was not perfectly square. I measured the tray and mistakenly assumed it would be square. But once I built the box it was obvious it bowed out a little on the sides. Some amount of cursing and smashing with a hammer later got it close enough. I attached the whole assembly to the front with construction adhesive after roughing up the paint with some sandpaper.

I'd make the dealership deal with it since they fucked it up in the first place.

But if your dead set on figuring it out yourself head to your local hardware store. I'm talking like your local joint like an Ace or something small along those lines, not a big box store. Pair up with one of the staff and take their thread checker out to the vehicle and figure out what size threads your looking for. Alternatively bring in an existing dash bolt that fits and check it in store. Then buy the hardware you need.

These type of plastic anchors might be a solution to pressure dings from hard turns or knees or however they originate. The anchors would distribute the pressure down into the foam, instead of the pressure only being at the surface. Pressure dings can lead to delaminations.

Does anybody make surfboards using polyisocyanurate closed cell foam?