Reddit mentions: The best filtration products

We found 164 Reddit comments discussing the best filtration products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 85 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

5. 115 Micron Rosin Press Squish Bags • 2" x 4" • 20 Pack • 115u Microns Filter Screen Made from Polyester ft. Proprietary Stitching- Heavy Duty Rosin Tech Bag Highly Rated for Zero Chances of Blowout

    Features:
  • ★ 4X STRONGER THAN OTHER BAGS - While most rosin bags sold today are poorly strung together by a single piece of thread making them prone to ripping under intense pressure, ours come in a reinforced rolled hem stitching that's proven to be 4x stronger than other bags.
  • ★ 115 MICRON - Whether you're looking to press trim, shake or flower, the 115 micron variant offers the largest filtration compared to any other variant. However, it's still fine enough to keep any foreign matter away from your oil.
  • ★ HATE BLOWOUTS? - Us too! Not only are they frustrating but they're also an unnecessary waste of material. That's why we designed our rosin bags with only premium materials made from 100% polyester monofilament mesh that's able to withstand temperatures of up to 300°F to ensure a smooth extraction process to get you the most yields and reduce any chances of blowouts.
  • ★ MORE IN EVERY PACK - We firmly believe in having a presence of both quantity and quality, so each pack comes with 20 of our finest & most premium rosin bags that's 2" x 4" in size, designed to fill 15-20g of material at a time so that you can get more from each press.
  • ★ PROUDLY MADE IN THE USA - Locally made and hand sewn in the U.S. of A.—it can't get any better than that. Plus, we offer a way too easy 100% Money Back Guarantee. If you are not happy with our products we will give you a refund. No questions asked!
115 Micron Rosin Press Squish Bags • 2" x 4" • 20 Pack • 115u Microns Filter Screen Made from Polyester ft. Proprietary Stitching- Heavy Duty Rosin Tech Bag Highly Rated for Zero Chances of Blowout
Specs:
ColorWhite
Weight0.0625 Pounds
Size20 pack
Number of items1
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11. Syringe Filter Sterile PES Hydrophilic Filtration 0.22um Pore Size, 33mm Membrane Diameter Sterile PES Membrane Individually Packed by Membrane Solutions (Pack of 10)

    Features:
  • ✅VARIOUS APPLICATION - Needle Syringe filters are broadly used in life science laboratories for sterilization of small volume samples, such as protein, culture medium, additives, buffers, reagents, and drugs.
  • ✅HIGH QUALITY FILTERS - Membrane Solutions sterile syringe filters with extremely high microbial filtration capacity and unique threaded interface design with ISO 9001 certificated.
  • ✅PES MEMBRENA - Sterile Polyethersulfone (PES) needle filters have Polyethersulfone microporous membrane, belongs to hydrophilic membrane, high flow and lowest protein adsorption, which can meet the broadly applications, such as buffer, protein, culture medium, additives and so on.
  • ✅STERILE SYRINGE FILTERS - sterile syringe filters are made with PES membrane filters with polypropylene (PP) housing, using the most advanced methods and design features. The PES syringe filters with GF pre-filter has excellent dirt-holding capacity, which makes a syringe filter a much larger throughput for some “hard to filter” sample.
  • ✅UNIFORM PORE SIZE - Sterile PES Syringe Filter with uniform pore size structure; wide pore size selection, retention of granule cell collection. PES Syringe Filter Diameter: 33mm, 0.22um pore size can fast sterilization of buffers, culture media or other solutions.
Syringe Filter Sterile PES Hydrophilic Filtration 0.22um Pore Size, 33mm Membrane Diameter Sterile PES Membrane Individually Packed by Membrane Solutions (Pack of 10)
Specs:
ColorGreen
Weight0.18 Pounds
Size33MM
Number of items10
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🎓 Reddit experts on filtration products

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where filtration products are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Filtration:

u/Incidental_Octopus · 1 pointr/minipainting

The most important things are a tank and the ability to fill the tank to a PSI above a minimum of 80 or so. A tank makes it so the compressor doesn't have to run constantly, and creates a buffer so the air pulses of the compressor aren't transmitted to the brush where they can cause dotted rather than smooth lines. You want the compressor to be able to put out a higher PSI because you want the tank to hold enough so you can spray for longer at pressures of 60 PSI or below for longer intervals before the compressor has to refill the tank.

For model painting, most of your spraying will be best done at 20-30 PSI. Higher PSIs like 60 tend to be either for cleaning, or stuff like textile paints (i.e. T-shirt artists). The little "fishtank" compressors like the Ninja Jet can only deliver a max PSI of around 15 or so, which is on the very bottom edge of what most brushes can work with. PSIs of 15 and below are mainly used for tiny close-in detail work with highly thinned paint, and going that low works better with brushes that are designed specifically for detail, rather than "jack of all trades" workhorses.

Different brushes require different CFM (cubic feet per minute- a measurement of air volume rather than pressure), and little "fishtank" compressors are bare minimum here as well, so there will be many brushes where they'll make the brush spray poorly because they physically can't provide enough air to keep up at any pressure. A good target CFM rating for a tankless compressor is 1.5.

A tanked compressor can technically get away with less CFM, since it's not supplying the brush directly, but unless you want to have to stop painting whenever the compressor has to top up the tank, you want the compressor to have enough CFM to supply the brush WHILE also filling the tank, which means check your brush manual/documentation for its CFM, and look for a compressor that is specced over that by at least 1/2. The higher the CFM, the faster the tank will fill. Unfortunately I could not find specs for the Patriot that list CFM, but 1.5 is probably still a good start for a tanked compressor.

"Master" and other such Chinese import brand compressors are popular because people think they're cheap, but for very little extra a brand like California Air Tools will get you better QC, support, reliability, and specs. Chinese airbrushes are comparatively cheap, but the compressors aren't really, so there's not much reason to get the Chinese ones IMO.

Avoid regular hardware-style compressors unless you're painting in a very noise-tolerant environment, as even the "quiet" ones are LOUD AF. Seriously: when the descriptions/reviews say "super quiet" they mean by construction site standards, not household appliance standards.

As to fittings: if you live in a particularly dry climate (like Arizona, say), you can get away with not using a moisture trap, but even there it's good practice to have one just in case. If your climate is any more variable or humid than that, you will want a moisture trap. You can just get one from the local hardware store though: it doesn't have to be a special type. Always place the trap last in the air supply/fitting chain before the airbrush hose, so: compressor-> tank-> regulator-> moisture trap-> airbrush hose-> airbrush. Or if using a bench block as described below: compressor-> tank-> regulator-> connecting hose-> bench block regulator-> moisture trap-> airbrush hose-> airbrush.

In the US, compressors usually have 1/4 NPT fittings. In Metric countries, 1/4 BSP. These fittings are cross-compatible enough that you can use them together with teflon tape.

For hobby and fine art airbrushing, I HIGHLY recommend a lightweight hose like this over braided hoses. Braided hoses are for industrial-type settings like auto painting shops, where hoses need to be extra hard wearing.

BTW, when painting, loop the hose once around your forearm so if you accidentally drop the brush, the hose acts as a lanyard preventing the brush from hitting the floor. I feel like I'm constantly hearing horror stories about people damaging their brush by dropping it when preventing this is so easy.

A tanked compressor with come with a regulator. These are perfectly usable, but imprecise. It's not strictly necessary, but I do highly recommend using the built-in regulator as a step-down regulator, and getting a 0-30 or 0-60 PSI regulator to chain after it. I use one of these on my setup, and it makes adjusting airflow much better.

If you plan on locating your compressor directly on or under your "workbench" surface, that's all you need. If the compressor is going to be outside immediate/easy reach, it can be good to mount your regulator and moisture trap on a separate "bench block" so you can put it on/under your bench within easy reach. This is what I had to do with my setup (I mounted the regulator and moisture trap on a scavenged heavy steel bookend). In that case, you'll want/need a hose like this to go between the compressor and the regulator/filter block.

There are "extras" you can get like a quick-connectors and MAC valves, but I don't personally recommend them. If you're only using the compressor for your airbrush, you don't need quick connectors on the compressor side of the hose, and IMO quick connectors on the brush side don't actually save you time/energy as it only takes 2 seconds to unscrew a brush from the hose. If your regulator is in easy reach, a MAC valve similarly does not save you any time/effort. Both of these also add lots of bulk to the brush stem, which is undesirable if your instinct is to hold/use the brush like a pen instead of a gun. There are mini-filters that go between the hose and the brush, but I generally don't recommend them for the same reason: too much added bulk on the brush stem: it's better to to add to your main filters if you need better filter performance.

I don't have a Badger Patriot, but my understanding is that it's a good brush. I have two Badger SOTAR models, and if they're any indicator, I'd expect spray performance to be comparable to IWATA, but fit & finish to be more raw and "industrial" outside of the nozzle and needle, so a little fussier to keep clean. It should be much better and more reliable than a 20$ "Master" or "Point Zero" or whatnot.

The threads in the head assembly can be a little "gritty" on Badger brushes OOB. If that's the case, I recommend lapping them with something like Flitz to ensure a good seal. Basically just put a tiny dab of compound on the male threads, then screw them in and out about 20 times to polish off the burrs that are causing the gritty/sticky feeling. Make sure to clean the residue off thoroughly before spraying again.

For maintenance, get a roll of lint-free shop paper towels, a couple packs of interdental brushes from the local dollar store, a box of q-tips, and a box of round wood toothpicks. Use paper towels and q-tips wetted with solvent/thinner to clean the cup and needle, the interdental brushes to clean the passageways/tubes in the body, and use a wood toothpick whittled to a needle taper and soaked in thinner to clean the inside of the nozzle (don't use metal tools to clean the nozzle, as they might scratch it or flare the tip). Occasionally you'll need to inspect the needle tip or nozzle for gunk or damage, so you'll want a high-X pocket magnifier similar to this. Also a stick of wax-based lip balm to help the threads in the head assembly maintain a good air seal (apply a tiny amount to the male threads before reassembly after cleaning).

Get or make a spray-out pot. They're easy to DIY out of a margarine tub or soda/juice bottle, so although nice, it's not strictly necessary to buy one.

Get or make an airbrush stand/holder. This is not for storing the brush, but rather for having a way to set the brush down while in-in use without spilling the paint cup. Again: these are easy to DIY, so you don't have to splash cash on one unless you really feel like it.

Hope that helps!

u/Hotrian · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

  1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
  2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
  3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
  4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
  5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).

    There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:

  • Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  • 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  • Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  • A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  • An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  • A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  • Small bags (for silica beads),
  • PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  • Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  • SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  • Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  • Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  • Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  • Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  • E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  • Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  • Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  • And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...

    Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..

    ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!
u/Kushnikov · 3 pointsr/rosin

https://www.amazon.com/Diameter-Individually-Packaged-Biomed-Scientific/dp/B073YMR44R/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549515767&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=syringe+filters+0.45um+sterile&psc=1













I personally would recommend those filters. It's a greater micron size, but it's already much less than that of you 72-25μm filter for a dry sift press. Speaking of which, there's a few tips I will give based off the best results I've seen so far

-If you are able to, use a 150μm, full-spectrum dry sift thats pressed through a 25μm and run more pressure at a lower temperature, with more time and cool them on something cold. This allows for the taste of full spectrum without the need to reintroduce strain profile terpenes.
-Learn to make rosin jam. This is more of a syrup consistent and will allow for easier separation of lipids through the filter and will be closer to a distillate consistency requiring fewer terps.
-Only use enough to emulsify when heated in a magnetic stirrer hot plate.
-Use a magnetic stirrer hot plate
-Use a simple green crystal clear concentrate diluted in distilled or boiled water on warm temperatures immediately after done with use in an ultrasonic cleaner. This will clean, degrease, and be medically sterile when it comes out.
-When using the filter, you want the liquid to be slightly luke warm, this not only speeds up the process, but it also basically sperates more materials like lipids that will separate if not mixed together correctly.
-Get the German made Truth brand, 10ml Borosilicate syringe with a lier lock. That's what the syringe filters lock into. You also get finer graduations with 10ml as opposed to 20ml. You can even hook a PID up to a email coil and fit it around the syringe body and set the temp to 150 just to keep it warm enough to stay liquid but still cool enough to get better filtration.



If you have any other questions, feel free to PM me.

u/Battered_Unicorn · 5 pointsr/firewater

personally i would go with something like this with one of these I believe that still also comes with tubing, clamps and a hookup to your faucet but i may be wrong. In which case those are easily ordered from amazon or ebay. This setup would be pretty close to the ease of the t500 due to the electric element, its also safe to run indoors (provided you leave a window open for ventilation) and the 2" triclamp leaves your options open for upgrades like a reflux column should you wish to produce neutral or vodka. I also want to add, a nice hdpe bucket like this and a airlock such as this are great to have. A filter like this comes in handy for filtering yeast and sediment out of mash. As far as extras you dont need much other than a mash bucket, airlock, and way to cool your still head. I personally run a 32gal trash can filled with water and a pond pump to to recirculate my water without any wasting any, but for a small apt i would just use the kitchen faucet and screw on a adaptor

u/EnormousGrowth · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

That's a lot of money for a fan. You could always get a cheaper fan that moves more cfm and simply get a fan silencer. You would still save money at that rate and spend the rest on an enclosed hood or cool tube to help with temperature control.

Overall you're good.

Fan Silencer (out of stock at the moment, but cheaper): http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-FS-6-Muffler-Silencer/dp/B00HWILBSS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1450225496&sr=8-3&keywords=fan+silencer

Fan silencer (more expensive, but in stock): http://www.amazon.com/Phresh-701200-Silencer-4-Inch-12-Inch/dp/B007ZU5YQS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1450225496&sr=8-6&keywords=fan+silencer

Hood Upgrade: http://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Horticulture-GLRLS24-Hydroponic-Reflector/dp/B00BMVK8HG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450225652&sr=8-1&keywords=air+cooled+hood

Fan and Carbon Scrubber Replacements: http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-IF6-CF6-B-Controller/dp/B0051HDECS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450225799&sr=8-1&keywords=ventech+vt+if6

If you're going to be flowering in the tent, I would recommend lightproofing it, as well. Use only the ports in your tent for intake and cut some carbon filters to size. http://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Pre-Filter-38002-Activated-Sheets/dp/B00LXIWNT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450225982&sr=8-1&keywords=carbon+filter+sheet

Your tent is a little expensive, too. If that's the one you have your heart set on, go for it. As an alternative, I suggest http://www.amazon.com/MILLIARD-Reflective-Hydroponic-Mylar-Window/dp/B00ETBDX14/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450226158&sr=8-1&keywords=milliard+grow+tent

You will want a fan or two of some kind to circulate air inside the tent. 6 Inch clip fans are popular. I use a pair of 4 inch clip fans and a tower fan.

Make sure to look into a DIY Ona Bucket for smells. During flower it will stink up your room when you open the tent. Just turn the Ona bucket on a little before that and you're good. If you're really paranoid about smell, you can also get an inline carbon scrubber. They're pretty expensive and probably not necessary unless you pick some especially fragrant strains. http://www.amazon.com/Phresh-500-Inline-Filter-6-Inch/dp/B00CJIMUH2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450226390&sr=8-1&keywords=phresh+inline

That's my $.02, anyway. There are much more experienced growers here.

u/Dissostu · 1 pointr/ketamine

Helpful info on the best water to use.
I use cold tap water. I also filter through a micron filter into 10ml amber glass resealable vials. I make my own bacteriostatic water by doing cold tap water with .09% benzyl alcohol. This ends up being 9.1ml of water and .09ml of benzyl alcohol. The benzyl alcohol I get comes in a 50ml resealable sterile bottle.

Here's a link to the 27 gauge 1.25" 3cc sterile needles I get. It comes as one unit with the needle already attached to the syringe. I get my vials, benzyl alcohol, needles, and alcohol wipes from medlabsupply. They have way cheaper pricing and everything you need is on there. Just make sure to get everything you need all at once to avoid paying too much for shipping. I use these 10ml syringes for making the actual solution. You can reuse these as long as you use a fresh micron filter as it will filter any potential bacteria.

You should really research how to do IM injections to avoid getting any abscesses/infections as you can lose a limb. IM is much less forgiving than IV as it's very easy for bacteria to spread in muscle tissue so infection needs to be taken much more seriously. You should be using a fresh needle every time, using alcohol wipes to wipe the top of your bottle of solution if you're using a premade solution, and wiping your injection site before you shoot it every single time.

I'd suggest making solutions since using a micron filter is much safer than a cotton ball. It makes it easier since you can just filter your entire solution at once and use only a single wheel/micron filter for one or two solutions (assuming your doing 10ml solutions). Then your whole vial is filtered and sterile and you don't have to worry about it until you go through the whole vial (1 gram of k per 10ml vial).

As far as injection sites the thigh is definitely the easiest and most forgiving. I'd say glutes are second. I just alternate between each thigh muscle personally. If I did it more often I'd do each thigh muscle and then one or both glutes (choose the one on the same side as your dominant hand if just doing one).

Here's a link that shows your how to find the site properly. Here's another one showing injection sites, how to find them, and how to do IM injections safely. This one is a good video for finding the injection for glutes and where your sciatic nerve is. Even after you know how to find the sites you should still look up images of the nerves that run through the given muscle you plan on injecting into. That way you can know exactly what you're avoiding and it'll will prevent accidentally hitting one.

u/Indian_villager · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

GIT GUD SON!

Seriously, attention to detail will drive your beer from ok to good.
Control will take it to great.

Water: This is most of your beer, if your water sucks your beer will suck. At the least use a carbon filter or campden tabs to kill the chlorine/chloramines coming through from the tap. Below are links to a filter setup. Plumb the outlet to 1/4" OD tubing. This will slow down the flow a lot. Slower flow = better contact time = better water. Get this much done on the cheap, if you want to play with RO and pH do it later. Get this level of consistency down first.


Filter body: https://www.amazon.com/Hydronix-HF3-10CLWH34PR-Housing-Pressure-Relief/dp/B01CFOGH32/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1494856726&sr=8-4&keywords=10%22+filter+body


Filter:https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-WFPFC8002-Universal-2-Phase-Cartridge/dp/B007JRDT96/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494856764&sr=8-2&keywords=dupont+carbon+filter


Make sure you are getting a good boil. Target 1gal/hour of boiloff. This will help your drive off undesirable compounds in the wort and up your hop utilization.


Hops: Make sure they are fresh, frozen, and under vacuum (if you can't manage vacuum double ziplock making sure to push out as much air as possible)


Yeast: Manage your pitch rates, use the calculator over at brewunited. If you don't have the resources to manage yeast starters stick to dry yeast and learn how to rehydrate them. More and more strains are emerging on the dry market and the dry yeast offers a great deal of consistency.


Ferm Temp: This one will make you a hero. This one is not as expensive as it seems. It is May, dorm fridges should be flooding CL, snatch one up for cheap, pick up an ITC-308 from amazon for a temp controller, and also pick up a 17W seedling heat mat. If you are careful all this could be had for less than $100.


Post Ferm: Once the beer is done fermenting minimize contact with oxygen. Since you are focusing on pale ales reducing the oxygen contact with the wort will easily improve your quality. Check out the sterile siphon starter over at brulosophy and note how they have it directly hooked up to the keg post instead of dropping the tube through the open top.

Feel free to PM me if you have further questions.

u/DrMarioBrother · 1 pointr/opiates

Listen, this is what you need to do TODAY, NOW.

  1. Go online on Amazon or another website and buy her 100 clean sterile syringes that are 27, 28, or 29 gauge luer lock 1ml. The higher the number the better (up to 29), but 27 is fine.
  2. https://www.amazon.com/Diameter-Individually-Packaged-Biomed-Scientific/dp/B06Y15LBZ5/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=micron+wheel+filter&qid=1562185313&s=gateway&sr=8-2
  3. Get her alcohol swabs
  4. https://dancesafe.org/product/fentanyl-test-strips-pack-of-10/ Buy her some of these it's VERY important.
  5. Buy two of these, needs to be two of them https://www.amazon.com/AdirMed-Sharps-Bio-Hazard-Disposal-Container/dp/B079TLTRXR/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=113GHOFD5RKQQ&keywords=syringe+container+disposal&qid=1562196502&s=gateway&sprefix=syringe+container%2Caps%2C902&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1
  6. Buy two soda can and cut the bottoms off about an inch from the bottom, cut evenly. She can cook her dope up without using someone else's can/spoon/etc. (spreads HIV/Hep C/Hep B). (PM me your region...depending on her type of dope she may not or should not be heating it up.)
  7. Tell her if it tests positive for fentanyl, and she's too poor to consider just throwing it away, She should mix up all the dope she bought in one mix, using the same amount of water she injects her bag/dose that she normally does (yes multiple normal doses), POP OFF the needle part of the syringe, and draw up a 0.5ml dose (half as much liquid as normal, half the dose of normal) and squirt a tiny bit up her nose, just a little bit at a time and not all at once, maybe a little squirt every 5-10min ( 30-45min is best but let's be real junkies won't wait). From there she can figure out the potency. If she mixed up say 5 normal doses in one big batch all together and let's say the dope is 80% as strong as her normal dose get her high/well she now knows the other 4 doses are exactly the same strength. Fentanyl mixed in dry powder is SO dangerous.
  8. Please PM me your general region (nothing more than say your state is needed) and/or country so I can give advice to pass on (whether she should heat up her dope or not, etc.) As well as direct you to other phone numbers to help her.

    This stuff will keep her alive MUCH longer, giving her longer to have a chance to get help. It will reduce her chance of IV damage by 99%, reduce chance of Hepatitis C/HIV by almost 100%, and she's less likely to OD.

    This should be the ONLY support you give her besides an offer for a free ride and paid for methadone program (if she passes her future drug tests), and don't you dare give her too much equipment all at once or she might be dumb enough to try to resell it. Maybe give her say 10 sets of each (alcohol pad, filter, fentanyl test strip) and maybe a few extra stringes (15-20?). Then wait and see how long until she comes back for more. Eventually you can figure out a spot to stash each "set" near the house but outside in something that won't damage it, assuming you don't want her seeing you or the kid.

    Tell her that every time she comes back, either you'll personally exchange it or she'll know where you put the new set outside the house, that she NEEDS to put all her used needles WITH THE CAP ON ALWAYS, the used filters, and the used fentanyl strips and anything else all in the red sharps container, and to take the new/empty container with all the new stuff with her. TELL HER if a single syringe or anything in these kites except the alcohol swabs are missing or the count is short, you will either start giving her less or cut her right off. That way she doesn't just sell this stuff hopefully. (Don't actually count that crap or even touch it; you should just dump it all into massive empty cardboard box inside another cardboard box, and keep it out of reach of your child. Eventually when it's too full, close the flaps and tape up the box inside a box and trash it).

    Apart from offering her a free ride to a methadone clinic and offering to pay for her methadone as long as she never fails a drug test after getting in the program(seriously never offer to pay for this more than the first time she fucks it up), give her absolutely nothing apart from maybe a home made sandwhich the SECOND time she visits for more injection stuff, not the first (so you can tell for sure how often roughly that she needs more IV supplies without worrying she's coming extra often just for the sandwhich).

    If she can manage say 30 days on the program without testing positive/getting kicked or or getting arrested, maybe you'll "consider changing your living arrangements." (BE VAGUE and promise nothing in stone or anything specific.
u/daermonn · 1 pointr/espresso

I've done it a few times so far on my DE1. I'm not sure how effective it would be on a different machine, but I suppose the blooming/precise program might be a different benefit from the filtering.


I use these filters based on someone else's recommendation here. They're really nice quality. They fit perfectly within my VST portafilter as the bottom filter, but there's a bit of a gap for the filter on top of the puck, so I've been thinking of looking for a set of 57mm.


I definitely enjoy it, it produces a very sweet, flavorful cup with a better extraction, but at the expense of a thinner body from the filtering. Strangely I seem to get more visual channeling on the bottom of my portafilter, but that might be poor technique on my part.

u/pharmaconaut · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

I can't recommend any good filters, though I'm going to be trying these in my closed loop soon (once I actually run my closed loop. could be a week or two). http://www.amazon.com/Ahlstrom-0540-0700-Quantitative-Filter-Diameter/dp/B006H8QRJC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1408804334&sr=8-6&keywords=10+micron+paper+filter. They also have glass roving filters that go down to 3 micron, which I might put after the 10 micron, but those filters cost like 80-120$ for a pack.

I think can tapping will definitely help. I had no issue using 25 micron while blasting open. To be honest, I think even 15 micron would still flow nicely. tbh, I'm just guessing.

If you haven't already, these guys have some pretty fine mesh was considering getting the smallest. Steel would be stronger than filter papers, I'd imagine.

u/Piece_of_Maurice · 6 pointsr/Homebrewing

I started doing closed transfers with my Speidel a few months ago and I have to say, there is no looking back. I love my Speidel's even more after I figured out how to make this work for me. It hinges on the fact that 3/8" silicone tubing fits snugly over the Speidel spigot and that you can attach a spigot to the lid. I use 1/2" NPT fittings for a snug fit into the 3/8" silicone tubing.

Picture of my setup: https://i.imgur.com/nJDOGix.jpg

I use CO2 to push out the beer into the keg. Starting from the CO2 tank:

  1. Gas tubing to ball lock gas disconnect.
  2. Connect that to a Male 1/2" NPT-ball lock gas adapter from BrewHardware.
  3. That adapter connects to a female 1/2” NPT-male 1/2” hose barb that is in a short length of 3/8" silicone tubing.
  4. That length of tubing is connected to the spigot on the Speidel lid which pushes gas into the Speidel.

    From the bottom spigot:

  5. 3/8" silicone tubing runs from the spigot to an in-line bouncer filter.
  6. From the filter "out" barb, more tubing connects to a 1/2" hose barb-1/4" female flare adapter.
  7. That adapter connects to a ball lock liquid disconnect which is hooked up to the keg liquid out post.
  8. A ball lock gas disconnect is hooked up to the gas in post that has a length of tubing running into a container of StarSan.

    ​

    A couple of points. I fill up my keg completely with StarSan and then push it all out (reusing it, of course) through the in-line filter/tubing setup and then I let the gas blow through the in-line filter for 10-15 seconds or so before hooking that up to the Speidel bottom spigot. The spigot actually has a little vent hole that is open to the outside when the spigot is in the closed position so the CO2 vents even though the tubing is hooked up. I then open the spigot just as much as I need to so that vent hole is no longer opened (but not enough to actually allow beer to flow out) while at the same time turning off the gas flow. This ensures a completely CO2 purged filter and I have not had any issues with oxidation despite filtering my beer. I have also never had any issues with a clogged outpost despite brewing many hoppy beers and NEIPAs because of the filter. It sounds a little complicated but once you figure it out, it works very, very well and solves a common problem with closed transfers to kegs. I don't have to worry about cold crashing in the fermenter either which further minimizes oxygen ingress.

    Also, keep in mind you don't need very much pressure at all to move the beer. Once I attach my filter to the bottom spigot, I disconnect the gas line from my keg and connect it to the "blow in" tube attached to the spigot on the lid. I then open the bottom spigot and then finally turn on the gas with the regulator all the way off. I slowly crank up the regulator until I get good flow of beer into the keg. The needle on the regulator will sometimes barely move so I would imagine it is probably about 1-2 PSI max. That's all you need.

    Hope that helps! And hope it makes sense. Happy to answer any questions. Closed transfers have really taken my beers (especially hopper beers which is most of what I brew) to the next level.
u/cryospam · 1 pointr/trees

I think you're right, it will be somewhere around a grand for the kit I'm planning...but because I'm growing at home, it's basically a one shot cost (minus alcohol and filtration media,) plus I'll get awesome product, at least as good as the stuff I can buy in the Recreational dispensaries, and better than anything I could get from the black market.
I am in a legal state, but good quality wax is STUPID expensive, over $100/g plus I'm growing the flower myself (so the "expensive" part of this is actually something I already have on hand.) I grew more than 4 pounds last year legally in my living room in a 8x4 tent.

I'm staying away from butane because I'm doing this in my condo in my living room and not in a real lab. If I had fume hoods, and a fire prevention system that didn't involve me holding a fire extinguisher, then I would be there. I did originally look at butane columns, and I totally could go that route...I just didn't like the safety aspect when combined with my condo as a location.

I am going to use a vacuum kit with one of THESE plugged into a 2000 ML erlenmeyer flask with the same 24/40 glass fitting between them. There will be a vacuum pump attached to the side inlet to generate suction.

I'll use THISfilter paper at the bottom, then like half an inch of diatomaceous earth above that for filter medium.

The alcohol and the activated charcoal will be poured carefully into the top, and then it will strain itself out.

I figure 1 or 2 passes and it will remove all of the charcoal (I've read 1 but I'm skeptical) with an approximately 9-12% loss factor (by weight) compared to the initial extract, but the polished extract should be chlorophyll free, and it should be a beautiful honeyed color.

I also bought one of THESE and one of THESE so if I am unhappy with the results from my column, I have a final "stupid fucking fine" filter that I can pass the ethanol extraction through. This will give me a final filtration of 0.2 microns, although due to the added cost to each batch, I'm hoping that I don't have to go this route. I suspect that the filter plate on this will clog very quickly, which is why I'm hoping to use diatomaceous earth as my "primary" filter medium. It is both very cheap and incredibly effective.

Because I'm doing this with my own weed (rather than trim) and I'm doing it in pretty small batches (I'm not selling this stuff...) I'm hoping that the source turbo, even though it's small, will do what I need it to.

u/theredkrawler · 7 pointsr/refrigeration

Without tools, the best you can really do is look for oiliness on the pipe. When you find a joint that feels oily (look for dark colours on the pipe, usually covered in very fine dust. Once you rub the dusty area with your fingers you'll feel the oiliness), spray/pour a small amount of washing up liquid over it and look for bubbles. If there's any refrigerant left in the system, you'll usually see bubbles appear (or over a longer period, foam). Of course if the gas has all escaped already - and we're only talking a couple of hundred grams here - then you won't see any bubbles.

Most domestic gear has no access fitting at all so even locating the leak can be difficult if there's no visual indication. You need to get pressure in there so you can leak test - this means adding a bullet piercing valve (like this).

Then you need to put something in via your bullet piercing valve to raise the system pressure. It's best to use dry nitrogen to leak test to save wasting refrigerant, but since you most likely don't have that on hand you could buy yourself some refrigerant (most likely R134a) and pressurise with that. That's a big no-no here (both disposable cylinders and dumping gas to atmosphere by charging a system with a known leak) but I'm guessing your in the US, and those sorts of laws seem remarkably lax so go for gold. It's not like you'll be ruining MY ozone layer too, right? ;)

You also need to regulate the pressure going in to the system. This is where you need gauges. Connect the yellow line to your bottle, connect the blue line loosely to your bullet piercing valve, purge from cylinder to piercing valve by opening the cylinder tap + gauges tap, and releasing some pressure via the loose fitting, then tighten the fitting and close your gauges tap. Open the bullet piercing valve. Open the gauges tap slowly and give it ~50psi of system pressure.

Then you can go for gold with your soap, or you can lash out and grab yourself some "proper" leak detection fluid (like this), or better yet an electronic leak detector (like this one).

Once you've found your leak, you want to release your nitrogen (or reclaim your refrigerant using a reclaim plant and a spare cylinder), then repair it using an oxy/acetalyne set, or since it's only tiny pipework you can get away with a MAPP gas set.

If it's a copper->copper joint, you're laughing - polish the pipework up with emery cloth, heat the pipe until it's just this side of glowing red, and feed the joint with brown tip silver solder.

If it's a copper->steel joint, then it's a bit more of a pain. You need blue tip silver solder and flux. Clean your joint with the emery cloth, give it a nice coating of flux on every surface you need solder to stick to, then heat it up until it's a fair way short of glowing red. Feed the blue tip solder in and STOP. Unlike brown tip (15% silver) you can't just keep feeding blue tip (45% silver) as it ruins the weld.

Now, since you put on a bullet piercing valve and they leak like a sieve in the long term, we need to replace that with a schrader access valve. Since it's most likely going to be in a straight through piece of pipe, you can save time and grab yourself a pre made access valve in 1/4" pipe. Cut away the hole left by the bullet piercing valve, polish the copper and cut the pipework with a ~10mm gap using a tube cutter. Then slip your access fitting assembly in there, and follow the copper->copper joint procedure.

Of course, now that we've done all that you need to change the liquid line filter drier too. I'd recommend a 1/4" solder in core drier in place of the original copper spun drier because... well, copper spun driers are terrible. Follow the pipe cutting procedure from the piercing valve instructions and the soldering instructions from the copper->copper joint instructions and that's done too. Remember - always try and mount the drier so it's outlet is LOWER than its inlet. This turns the drier into a small liquid receiver and helps ensure a good liquid seal over the capillary tube. Speaking of capillary tubes, if it was inserted straight into the original copper spun drier CUT the capillary, don't try and unsweat it. The chances of blocking it up are about 82.5634% (approximately) when you unsweat capillarys. You're much better off chopping it with a set of capillary tube cutters and ensuring a good clean capillary. The ~30mm of wasted capillary will affect performance, but almost certainly not to any sort of measurable degree.

Then give the system a good evacuation using a vacuum pump and ensure it reaches a good vacuum (sub-500 micron) with a digital vacuum gauge.

Then using a set of electronic scales, charge your freshly evacuated system (remembering to purge!) to the charge recommended by the manufacturer.

Voila! You have just fixed your chest freezer.

..... Alternatively, pay someone to do it for you and/or recycle the components and buy yourself a new one.

u/Dstanding · 5 pointsr/engineering

Easier to just move more air. Even if you chill it, you're not going to get a huge temp delta (compared to ambient vs combustion temperatures). That is, if ambient is 30C and combustion is at 1000C, if you chill the air to 0*C you're only incurring an additional 3% to heat the air to combustion temp. It may be worth relocating your intake to make sure the intake air isn't heated by the forge though.

IMO, just get a big-ass centrifugal fan like they use to dry animals. Something like this.

Backyard metal casting has tons of great resources.

u/lanceuppercuttr · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I've had issues with my brewbucket as well. At first I worried about the direction the dip-tube of the bucket was in prior to transfer, but unlike Clumsy has stated, I've had good luck with using an inline filter. I leave my diptube at the 6 o'clock position. My process is as follows after a good 2-3 days cold crash @ 34F:

Fill keg with sanitized water until it over flows. Set the lid in place and seal the keg (more water will flow out). Let it sit for a bit, then connect the keg to CO2 and pour its contents out (preferably into another empty keg). Once its purged of O2 and water, disconnect the gas out. Open PRV to release any positive pressure. Connect CO2 to brewbucket and turn on at ~2-4 PSI. Take a hydro sample. This will give you an idea of how much sediment (yeast/hop debris) to expect (and you wont really want that beer in the keg). Rotate clockwise if its suck. Connect the tubing with inline filter to brewbucket (with liquid QD connected) , dont connect the QD to the keg yet. Open brewbucket valve. I raise the tubing up to force air out and press the spring poppit in the QD to encourage liquid out. This can be messy, but it will bleed the line of any O2. I try to keep a solo cup under it to catch any beer. Once there is no O2 inline, connect the QD to the keg and let it fill.

​

I've had quite a bit of hop debris in the filter before (5oz dry hop), but it continued to flow well enough to get into the keg without clogging the QD. I've had issues where the inline filter seems to have air in it, but this latest process seems OK as long as the filter seals properly. Sometimes the gasket in the filter can get pinched and let air in. If that's the case, just repeat the process. Cleaning out the filter is a lot easier than dealing with a clogged poppit (these have resulted in beer showers multiple times).

u/ohreuben · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

I purchased mine from the link below, you can build whatever syringe you want. (Highly, highly recommend at least 30ml or 50ml.) I have a glass-on-glass 30ml syringe with a metal luer lock.
http://www.zorotools.com/g/Glass%20Syringe%20Reusable/00141141/


And I get a 10 pack of filters from here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T45FZM/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


And you have it backwards! Here is how I use this syringe: Pull the plunger out, screw on a filter (skipping this = oil falls right out the bottom), pour from the measuring cup into the top of the syringe until it matches the 30ml line, then place the plunger back in, and begin applying pressure to pass the oil through the filter at the bottom. It is slow going considering I usually run batches of 200-300ml, but I cannot say it doesn't give GREAT results. It is a bit of an investment initially, but I only use one filter per batch, and the syringe is still working great after 5 or so batches, so I'd say it's a damn good one if you like pretty extracts.

u/Wallaby_Way_Sydney · 2 pointsr/opiates

Definitely only buy medical grade micron filters. You should be able to find them with a simple Google search. Let me see what I can find.

Edit: Here are some. They are non-sterile, but that should be fine. If you really feel like it you can find sterile ones, but it's unnecessary as those are more for research in bio-safety cabinets and clean rooms.

Also, you'll need these. The filters and these syringes have what's called a "leur-lock" connection, so if you plan on using micron wheel filters then you'll also need to purchase syringes that are compatible with them.

u/WildOakes · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Yea your O.G. will drop for sure, but you can plan accordingly if you have a ball park range for your efficiency. I've been there before with getting the same efficiency or even lower. There are lots of things you can change to help your system out. It's usually not just one thing, but multiple things hurting your efficiency. Trail and error process...

A single cold crash on your fermenter before transferring to a keg is all that's needed. I also use one of these for super hoppy beers or beers that are conditioned on fruit to prevent any large particles getting into the serving keg. I've had too many headaches with clogged kegs haha

u/Rauchengeist · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

Looks great, nice color.

Can you tell us how much dry weight material you extracted from, is it celite 545 or another pore size.

If you didn’t wash the celite before filtration it’s likely that is the cloudy issue. You can look into syringe filters and 60ml syringes to filter out the small celite particles and clarify the solution.

Biomed Scientific Syringe Filters PTFE Membrane 25mm Diameter 0.22um Pore Size non Sterile Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPD6PYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PrX.zb4GJ0F6W

u/HeroDanny · 2 pointsr/Powdercoating

I'd also add that you should get an inline gauge that can set the PSI, that way you KNOW that the PSI is consistent at that part of the hose.

This is the one I plan on buying, sounds like it might fix your issue, i'd also get another 5 feet of hose to go from that to your gun.

Good luck!

u/dcabines · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Try running it through a bouncer filter. I recently got one and its pretty awesome. Here is a picture.

u/Farmerofwoooooshes · 1 pointr/opiates

The BA on oral hydrocodone is like 90%, so you're not gaining much IVing it, you're also risking giving yourself space AIDS from all the tylonal. Don't do it, but if you must here's the best advice I can give:

  1. Crush up the pill as much as possible

  2. Drop it into a cooker of some kind. The bottom of a can works best

  3. Mix it with water (about .5 ml) until it's evenly mixed

  4. Put it through a wheel filter

  5. Put it in an insulin syringe for injecting

  6. Inject directly into your genitals (obviously don't do this)

    But seriously, you could get a bag of dope for the cost of wheel filters. Why even bother?
u/bskzoo · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

If you pressure transfer your beers I highly recommend something like this. I've yet to have a single clogging issue of any kind since using it for my closed transfers. No clogged dip tubes, quick disconnects, flow control valves...nada. Best investment I've made in a while, and it's so cheap when you consider the opportunity cost of the headache that comes with screwing with clogged crap.

u/exf5003 · 2 pointsr/oilpen

what was your process?
Looks like it could go through a syringe filter to clean it up.

u/averageanomaly · 2 pointsr/aeroponics

Hello! This looks incredible! I'm just now a high school senior and have been looking into aeroponics after having done hydroponics for at the past three years. I was apprehensive to spend my petty fast food job money on one of those $80 8800 pumps that aeroponic supply companies sell, and those outrageously priced $5 a piece 50 micron plastic nozzles. I'm glad I finally found a source of information that doesn't try to up the price a ridiculous amount. Also great work on using the Arduino as a timer as that was my plan too! I just never got around to it and decided to learn Python instead of C++ :P You're quite right that finding a timer for this kind of application is both a pain and expensive otherwise.

I have a few questions about your build.
How many nozzles/sprayers can this system support?
Is the above question dependent on the size of the accumulators?
Are those brass nozzles able to produce 5-50 micron droplets?
Are there any problems you have run into using this system?

Final note: check these filter bags out, as they might be a little easier to use straight away than a sponge and could fit into a larger water reservoir.

u/bolognasilencer · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

/u/herrschnaufer is correct - freeze everything: iso, bud and any jars that will be used for the extraction. The reason for this is to lock water solubles to the plant. I freeze for 24 hours in a deep freezer. The other plus to this is that you can do multiple washes and if done timely enough, your product will still be amber.

Use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. The 8% extra water content in 91% will mean you need to purge longer and will strip water-solubles faster than desired.

Use the finest filter(s) you can. I am planning on using one of these for my next run : 0.2um syringe filter

Here's my latest run, first wash and second both made from Mr. Nice Guy buds. The second run was intentionally turned from shatter to wax.

u/Donkeydonkeydonk · 1 pointr/microgrowery

It's entirely possible to use a hair straightener if you're careful.

Hash doesn't need a whole lot of pressure. But the temperature you have to watch. It should only have the slightest sizzle when you touch it with your wet finger. When I used one of those back in the day, I would toggle the power until I found the sweet spot.

And you definitely have to use some kind of bag to hold back the plant matter. You can grab them on the cheap from Amazon.

u/Havok3c · 1 pointr/oilpen

Something like this filter not sure what micron to use smaller the better I believe

u/BiggerStrongerTaller · 31 pointsr/steroids

Fuck. Family going nuts. Need to finish 2nd half. Here's a start:

Preamble
I've been working on trying to compartmentalize my homebrewing process so that I can do it in bits and pieces as time allows. I've been thinking about this for a while. Here is the completely stripped down process. Minimal investment, minimal time. All links are what I easily found. I have not spent time trying to find the "best deal." Some will complain some of this equipment isn't good/nice enough. It is. Shipping is not included in any of the pricing. YMMV.

Parameters
For this thought experiment, we will be making 100ml (10x 10ml vials) of Test E @ 250mg/ml, with 2% BA and 20% BB. This will require 25g of powder, 2ml of BA, 20ml of BB, and approximately 55ml of carrier oil.

Step one: Brew
Equipment:
Beaker Set $6.49 (Amazon)
Borosilicate Glass Stir Rod $1.75 (Amazon)
Small Scale $15.69 (Amazon)
Stove/Cooktop $0.00 (Kitchen)

Consumables:
10ml syringe $12.11 / 5 pack, also has syringe filters (Amazon)
2ml Benzyl Alcohol $4.21 for 50ml (MedlabSupply)
20ml Benzyl Benzoate $5.53 for 50ml (MedlabSupply)
~55ml Cottonseed oil $6.38 for 100ml (MedlabSupply)
3ml syringe you should already have on hand from pinning

Process:
Take your 250ml beaker, place it on the scale. Add 25g of powder. Use 3ml syringe to add 2ml of BA to beaker. Use 10ml syringe twice to add 20ml of BB to beaker. Pour CSO until it fills up to 100ml line.

Place beaker on stovetop, turn heat to low. Stir with glass rod. Keep stirring. Keep stirring. Keep doing this until your mix is completely clear (all powder dissolved in).

u/cremebo · 1 pointr/Kava

A few recommendations:

  1. Double strain, i.e., put your prepared kava through another strainer bag (doubled up if need be)

  2. Get a finer filter bag, such as a 10 Micron Size bag

  3. Chase your kava with lots of ginger tea. Throw 3-4oz of coarsely chopped fresh ginger in a pot with 3 cups water and simmer for 20 minutes. Add honey and drink during your kava session.

  4. Take some high quality probiotics. This will help break down the resistant starch in the Kava which is likely the major culprit.

  5. Get a strain that is low in both DHK (Chemotype Number: 2) and DHM (Chemotype Number: 5), such as Mo'i from Gourmet Hawaiin Kava. These two constituents tend to be more correlated with nausea. See more about Chemotypes here.
u/Whit3W0lf · 1 pointr/news

> discounted rate

Lol, half the time the products stated MSRP is ridiculous to the point that they aren't viable; case in point. $1100 for a fan? It's literally this with an attachment. Where the extra $1000 in engineering comes from is beyond me. Maybe the Raspberry Pi module to provide power cycling or controls for a bluetooth device? It's still insane.

Also note that the kick starter I linked actually delivers a product now. The campaign valued it at $1159 but they sell it for $759.

u/Disposable187 · 1 pointr/heroin

Micron filters and lure lock syringe


Brandzig 1ml Luer Lock Syringes, 100 Pieces - FDA Approved & Sterile Disposable Medical Grade Syringe - Precise Medication Measurement/Dispensing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NF8ZGNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KUO1DbNY6T9DF

Biomed Scientific Syringe Filters PTFE Membrane 25mm Diameter 0.22um Pore Size non Sterile Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPD6PYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YVO1Db8CJF4NH

u/csmicfool · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

I'll go in order from the CO2 tank down the line:

  • 10lb Aluminum tank, bought at local welding/gas supply

  • This 2-stage CO2 Regulator

  • Replaced the output fitting with one of these

  • Then I have a smaller regulator reduce the line pressure down to a stable 15 psi - I find that the more regs, the better for stable pressure.

  • That leads to two solenoids, one for each tank. You can buy the cheapish milwakee one, or anything that uses 1/4" npt fittings if you can find a better deal.

  • After each solenoid I have a T-junction to a gas pressure sensor reading back to my controller, and the other outlet to the final regulator. You can use the one above, or one of these

  • No need for a needle valve at this point. Go to your bubble counter and then up to your tank.

  • On my big tank I am using a reactor instead of the normal ceramic diffuser I have on the small one.
u/2moreweeks · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Variac speed controller

https://www.amazon.com/PHC-Enterprise-Variac-Variable-Transformer/dp/B006NGI8VS

a duct silencer/muffler

https://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VT-FS-6-Muffler-Silencer/dp/B00HWILBSS/

insulated duct and google how to insulate/wrap a inline fan for cannabis

u/beerme1978 · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Thanks. I'm way to impatient to wait that long, so I'll try the same recipe again and do as you say to see if it helps.

I forget how much gelatin I used. I bought it at LHB store and it said how much for the 5 gallons so I followed those directions.

Here is the strainer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CH2JSIY

u/chino_brews · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Can you keep the hop particles out of the keg? I use a cheap, reusable inline filter, for example.

u/TrenBerryCrunch · 1 pointr/Steroidsourcetalk

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DDZM2S2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_M.w7yb9MDAMDA

These are the filters I used, could that be why my tren doesn't feel very trenny?

u/se9n · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Have you tried using a bouncer. You could always put hops in one and another filtering it. bouncer

u/spaceghost_n_moltar · 4 pointsr/Homebrewing

My first question is, did you take out the first dry hops? if not, that's a big reason why you got chlorophyll. I can't remember exactly where i read it or heard it (probably brulosophy) but it's become my new rule of thumb for dry hopping is 1-1.2oz/gal total dry hop, under 65*f for two days max. if you're double dry hopping, take the first dose out after 2 days. Then add your second dose whenever you hit FG and leave those for 2 days and take them out. For second stage dry hops, i've been doing that the same day i start cold crash and leave it for two days, then keg or bottle. I've also filtered using This I got the fine mesh screen and it doesn't impact the haze much at all, just enough to catch hop particles while kegging or bottling.

Of course there's exceptions to the total dry hop rule, but i've noticed for <10gal batches it's on point.

u/VentingSalmon · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I just bought one of these bad boys

Since it bottles from the bottom of the conical, I figure it should have enough pressure to not take forever.

u/_atomized · 1 pointr/CannabisExtracts

I'm using some carts I bought off amazon (lol) and that's exactly what I thought might be the culprit at first as well, however, I read in a few different places that even the legit CCell carts and other high end ones do the same thing with homemade oil. I want to buy some nice carts and test it but I'm worried it will be a waste of money. I can provide links to the equipment I use if it helps.

Carts (These were taken off amazon so here's a screenshot. It is a little suspicious that the item was removed)

Syringe filters

Syringes

edit: I should add that I've tried multiple different batteries, some high end with higher voltage and some weaker ones, all to the same effect. The batteries also do fine with normal distillate from normal carts, it's only the homemade ones that have darkening issues. The one I have right now is basically pitch black, for example.

edit2: I know I'm a moron for getting amazon carts I was really broke at the time lol