Reddit mentions: The best fishing equipment

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u/paytonpenn · 5 pointsr/vaporents


I originally received my Hammer in July of 2013, I consider myself to be a explorative Hammer user so my review will include things other Hammer owners may not have done or realized. My initial reasoning towards choosing the Hammer were in its design. At the time of purchasing the Hammer I had had my Underdog for about a year and was satisfied that it was the end all of my desktop vaporization purchases. Not enjoying the hassle that is using my Underdog in the car and waiting for it to warm up after a drive to a friends I felt it was time to purchase a stronger portable. I had known of the Hammer since August and was very interested initially so it wasn't too difficult to decide on my next portable.

Arrival, Overview

When I received it, it came in a nice red housing the stems were bundled in small containers capable of holding two glass stems. I unfortunately broke one non-lock on stem (OG stem) when placing it back in its small container. I no longer use those containers, threw them away as soon as I broke the stem to prevent future breakage. But all together what I received was,

The Hammer Vaporizer

6 - Lock-On stems (I believe it normally comes with two)

2 - OG Stems (These may not come, or you may only get just the lock-on)

3 - Nails (I feel I received two extra due to the extra lock-on stems)

Red Hammer Toolbox

It also came with screens and rubber gaskets for the Lock-On stems, but they have vanished into oblivion; I have been using MFLB tubing as a replacement, but I believe the gaskets are better designed for it.

The Hammer itself is a bit above 5 inches tall, around 5 and a quarter (Y), about 2 inches long mine is no longer than 2 and a quarter (X), under 1 and a half inches thick (Z). It's very solid, the exterior is hard, very resistant towards heat, and you can unscrew the device with a small Phillips head screwdriver. The Lock-On stems allow you to clamp the stems on the Hammer for one handed usage and they yield a slightly bigger bowl than the OGs; they were created after the OG stems which require you to hold the stem while putting the Hammer to it. The stems are all glass and have a lip for screen placement. The nails are for placing screens, I personally haven't used the original screens, but I find its easiest to also use a chopstick or flat end of a wood skewer to assist the nail on screen placement. I haven't used the toolbox either, but it can carry all of the Hammers items very well. I don't find it to be a very high quality enclosure nor is it smell proof, I use the Plano 3440-10 for carrying my Hammer, stems, dabbers, and nail, but I can also include other items if needed.

Rejuvenation, Butane

The Hammer runs off of butane which is inexpensive and lasts a reasonable amount of time, for me a can of butane lasts 3 months and only cost 4 dollars. I refill my Hammer around once or twice a day, (I always purge my Hammer before I refill) its a very quick process. I get at least 6 sessions per fill, but I do purge and refill before I normally have to. When you're using your Hammer you will notice when it needs to be refilled, it will have a drastically quieter hiss and the blue in the torch will be much more dimmer than what it should be for where you have the dial set.

The way the Hammer works is you ignite the torch, which heats up a stainless steel tube, which is flattened in the center, butane vents around the tube and up out of the Hammer's vent on top then out of the top hole on the Hammer. This does put butane in the air, but not directly in the air path for when you're vaping.

Usage, Convection

I can't remember my first time using the Hammer but usage itself isn't difficult in my opinion and as you use you'll quickly learn how its working. The first time user will be delighted with the simple loading method, simply grind your herb to any consistency, fine or coarse (fine will of course provide better vapor in a more consistent way, but coarse will still be vaporized evenly while still providing quality hits), then just inhale the ground herb with the stem like a straw and your bowl is loaded. For first time usage I recommend setting your dial to the center (which I refer to as 50%), pressing the button until you hear a strong hiss and see a blue indicator light (this is the lit torch) in the Hammer under the heat exchanger, (it will be where you see a white circle when the Hammer is not lit; shadows make it easier to see when lit, its not always immediately noticed when its not lit) when it is lit wait thirty seconds then begin inhaling while still pressing the button, you should let go of the button when you notice vapor heat on your tongue, I don't recommend pressing the button down for more than ten seconds while inhaling unless you are trying to really rise the temp. Since the Hammer doesn't maintain its heat automatically you'll have to do a short reheat to get back to the temperatures you were previously vaping at, if you're dial is at the same setting it shouldn't take longer than three seconds to get back to the previous temperature but you may want to heat it longer for a higher temperature to extract further or to maintain the temperature when you inhale. It may need more heating if it wasn't being used for a while. To empty the bowl I normally just blow when outside or let the wind blow it out. But in most settings I normally just flick the stem with my finger over the bowl and drop the load with the rest of the abv. The taste on the Hammer is very pure as the air path is literally just a stainless steel tube that takes air from one end of the Hammer to the other. The draw is also very free as the herb is the only thing in the air path excluding the screen.

TL;DR, Basic Hammer Usage;

> Dial at 50%
> Heat for 30 seconds (make sure its lit)
> Continue heating and bring Hammer stem to heatport, inhale
> After the initial hit you only have to reheat for 3-7 seconds

Simple Alternative Method;

> Dial at 75%
> Heat for 30-40 seconds
> Stop heating, inhale
> Reheat 5-10 seconds

My technique;

> Dial at 100%
> Heat for 10 seconds
> Continue heating while inhaling for 10 seconds, should be a tasty hit with light vapor
> Reheat 3-10 seconds

> Pressing the button while inhaling at high temps can cause combustion

Many things are variable with this vaporizer so you may have to adjust to you're own personal settings but its really not difficult usage, just heat and inhale; once you found combustion you'll be able to avoid it easily, you're really only likely to combust when pushing temps.


When it comes to cleaning the Hammer itself doesn't get very dirty from normal use. Most of the times you can just blow into it or brush off whatever is there with your hand. But it really never gets dirty and the heat exchanger stays pretty clean from convection usage. The glass stems do unfortunately get dirty but this could also be noted as a benefit as they are easily cleaned and you can get reclaim from them. You can just soak the glass and screens in ISO.


The Hammer is not a flawless device and has some notable cons

> The head of the Hammer can get very warm after a couple minutes of heating, even more heating will cause it to be uncomfortable to grab by the head.

> It makes a loud hissing sound and the initial click is pretty loud as well.

> The heat exchanger can become loose and wiggle or move in an odd position, though you can tighten it back if you wish.

> Sometimes the lighter can be finicky, and non accustomed users may have issues.

These aren't its only negatives, but I don't feel it has very many others that are really worth the mention.

Overall Opinion

I personally don't see myself getting rid of the Hammer, it has easily taken the throne as my daily driver and it's capable of so much more than what it was originally designed for. I have never been bothered by the hissing sound and have never been inconvenienced from an overly warm head. While there isn't any automatic heating or ability to know and set your temperature I have found that those won't improve the end result. For flowers this vapes excels at what its suppose to do, pure convection vaporization and conduction, I highly recommend this vaporizer to anyone wanting a heavy hitting, discrete, versatile, or off the grid vaporizer. The Hammer is available for 120 directly, but it can also be found elsewhere for far less.

If you want pros and cons head over to my comparison where you'll see a usage video of both the Underdog and Hammer.

Personal Extras, Yes There's More

Usage, Convection Revisited

I primarily use my Hammer with a water pipe, seen in the videos below you'll get some examples of how easily it mates and how well it could milk. While I made due with silicone Hammer does sells their own glass on glass stems for either male or female joints. If you prefer the direct draw route or are just a collector of pipes you will be delighted to see many custom stems available on the Hammer website, and they are all unique. I use a custom stem that isn't from Hammer but it does fit and work well. I like to use it with unground herb or oils. It's also very handy in the dark.

For when I load personally it's rarely over 0.07 grams, I aim for the 0.05 region but don't mind going as low as 0.03. My technique is stated above, I vape the abv to a nice dark brown. I don't count how many hits I get but I know its never under 6 unless I'm trying to extract quickly or are using a water pipe. I think the Hammer is one of the best tasting vaporizers I have used, its very clean and taste changes are quite noticeable in the hits.

Usage, Oil

The Hammer is capable of being used with concentrates as well. You can either vape in a convection manner similar to normal usage where you would replace herb in the stem with the concentrate of your choice on a bit of cotton or ss wool. It can also be used like a nail; to do this one would just heat their Hammer and apply the dab into the crevice in the heat exchanger. When I have a pretty full glowing red indicator inside I apply the dab.

I haven't noticed any taste issues from when switching to convection flower usage, but I also have a screen inside of the heat exchanger shaped like a T or Y it collects oils that would have slipped past if it wasn't present. You may want to vape off the residue oils before switching to herbs.

Usage, Conduction

Conduction is also possible in the Hammer, it will slightly dirty up your heat exchanger and doesn't consistently provide thick hits, but for some reason it feels more effective. This is probably due to it not combusting at high temps and ruining my session, high temps don't really taste very great but its definitely not combustion. This isn't to say that you can't combust, but if you're not inhaling its less likely and you'll normally be left with black abv instead of ash.

To use the Hammer as a conduction vaporizer I place my concentrate screen in the heat exchanger and can either add ground herb or pellets of unground herb into the side the has the screen. I prefer inhaling from the port opposite of the bowl. No matter what heat setting you're at you'll be able to have vapor form fairly quickly. I've tested on the lowest setting and it works amazingly well, and the highest which won't destroy your herb instantly. I haven't done enough testing to give a proper technique but its not too difficult. Just heat the Hammer for a short period of time, wait for more vapor to form from the heating, and inhale the vapor that was formed from the overall process. You'll want to reheat to continue forming more vapor if you wish for a bigger hit and of course you'll have to reheat on a new hit. You'll have way more control without water and will be able to get more vapor in result. Obviously waiting longer will have more vapor formed, you may be waiting longer if you're using a water pipe.

I have been packing the herb into the heat exchanger to ensure that it is making good contact. So far the abv has been coming out pretty even, always black and char-like when its vaped past the dark brown or kept in to long. To remove the herb I have been using the included nail and just poke it out.

For cleaning the heat exchanger from oils or herb, I just rub an iso'd qtip in each port. This is not something that happens often as I don't think it is really necessary.



> 1, 2 - Start to Finsh, 3 - Heatup and Extraction under 1 Minute, 4- Conduction Vaporization


> First Test, Convection, Nail


You can also use bags, in a couple of weeks I will have videos and information on how to do that.

u/ikswosil · 28 pointsr/Gloomhaven

Enjoy the ride! A couple things I would recommend off the bat as somebody who just started myself a couple weeks ago. A lot of stuff is in the Read First FAQ on the sidebar as well.. but just wanted to share my personal experience!

  • Review: Check everything off against the components list to make sure you have everything. In the event you're missing anything, here's the form to request replacements.

  • Resources: You're going to run into a lot of questions on your first couple playthroughs. The BGG community is excellent at responding to questions (even if they've been asked before). Google will yield good results for most questions but for many of them that have been asked so many times, there's actually a massive Official FAQ I would recommend reading as well. ... the most confusing part of the game more often than not is around monster movement.. so after you've watched some videos, read some rules, and feel like you really get it.. take this quiz and realize how little you actually understand about how monsters should move. ... this will really help hammer home some of the more subtle nuances around movement. Somebody also made this nice flowchart to help as well: .. also, if you want to avoid all spoilers even for yourself when setting up scenarios, here is a spoiler-free .pdf that prevents you from peeking ahead when prepping rooms, etc. in a scenario: .. there's also an app on the appstore that provides the same kinda thing that I would recommend. knowing the shit in the upcoming rooms sorta ruins the scenarios for yourself and/or makes them much easier.

  • Dice: Way better for tracking damage on monsters than the little cardboard circles. I would recommend these -

  • Preparation: [Editing my post to include this as this is perhaps the most important of all when inviting friends over to play the first time] --- it took me an entire night (solo) to unbox this game and get it even somewhat prepared to play. Beyond that, I spent hours reading rules, FAQs, watching playthroughs, etc. to really have a firm grasp of it to explain to others... and I still found a lot of confusing nuances in a variety of instances that I needed to later clarify. If you're playing this with battle-hardened gamers who are ready for anything then no worries. But if you're like me who is usually making the best of any group of friends that is willing to sit down at a board game table with me.. please use caution and make sure you are well-prepped for this game or else your exciting, highly-anticipated Gloomhaven night will end up being a couple hours of unboxing followed by a lot of discourse over how/where monsters should move and attack.

  • Organization: .. is everything with this game. It's a massive effort to set up and put away, so anything you can do to streamline the process will be a great benefit to you. There's tons of threads out there on different solutions for this.. so find whatever works for you. I use a large Plano box for all the monsters and a small Plano box for all the combat-related pieces (debuff markers, loot tokens, traps, chests, etc.) .. I got them cheap at AC Moore but something like this would work too ( Other suggestions include windowed CD envelopes to combine the monster card with their deck and standees all in one place or a large tackle box as well.

  • Protection: This game is expensive as hell and you shuffle cards constantly. Protect that shit! .. these sleeves are perfect but the higher-end option if you're really feeling adventurous would be to get them all laminated at a Staples or other print store.

  • Learning: The rolling solo youtube channel in my opinion is the best for learning how to play. Really clear video of what is happening and he explains everything really well.

  • Uberstax: These things are worth their weight in gold as far as I am concerned for this game. You'll see them in the Rolling Solo video.. I got them and my group is obsessed with them.

  • Pimping your Game: Some people have developed some nice apps for tracking things. These include,, ...also, if you're interested in painting your miniatures there's infinity posts and videos on that so i wont bother here.. but if you're really aggressive and want to replace the monster standees entirely.. check out this thread:

    Have fun!
u/skol_vikings_skol · 8 pointsr/Ultralight

Decided to do the Foothills Trail so we could get some warmer weather being from Iowa. Did it in four nights, averaged about 20 miles per day. Ate 3,500 calories/day doing no cook to save weight not lose any body weight.


  • Miraposa GG 60L pack - worked great and fit all of my food. Back never got sore once.

  • Cascadia Brooks 11 Trail Runners - Finally got a pair of trail runners that work for me. La Sportiva, Solomon, etc. all did not fit me. These things dried out like a champ and were light weight.

  • Merino Minus 33 wool tops and bottoms. Worked amazingly. Kept me warm, dry, and stink free. However, the quality leaves something to be desired. Started fraying. I realize that wool isn't the strongest of materials, but these things won't last too long unfortunately.

  • Okuma VS-605-20 Voyager Fishing Pole - Small, lightweight, inexpensive, great quality, collapsible, comes with a carrying case that fits perfectly in my pack.

  • NEMO Hornet 1P - love everything about this tent, especially the weight. The zipper to the door can be a little bit of a pain to zip up if you don't have the right tension in the fabric, but other than that, it's awesome. A little extra headroom would be nice, but it's nothing that's been a problem.


  • Such an amazing trail and well marked.
  • Fairly difficult. There were almost no parts of the trail that were just flat. You were either going up or down.
  • Beautiful views. My favorite parts were the top of the mountain at table rock and walking alongside the Chattooga for several miles.
  • Fishing wasn't great. We didn't catch much, but it's hard to get good fishing in when you're hiking 20 miles/day.

    Things I would have done differently:

  • Made sure my two hiking partners were ready to hike 20 miles/day prior to going. I think it was a bit more than they thought it would be, but we still had a blast.

  • Bring less first aid stuff. If you get hurt, you can call someone. I don't really need band aids for scrapes. Ibuprofen is about all I need for muscle aches.

  • Need advice on water filters. The Sawyer Mini worked great, but the flow rate is not up to speed for me. We estimated that we filtered about 15-20 gallons of water between the three of us. One friend had a water filter pump and I used the Sawyer. Most of our downtime was filtering water which kind of sucked. Is there something that works faster? It was hot so we were pounding the water.


  • We used Heyward Douglas who operates on a volunteer basis. We each gave him a $20 bill. He was the nicest guy ever and gave us lots of good advice. Even called me after we were done to make sure we were safe and ask how we liked the trail. He picked us up at Oconee State Park and brought us to Table Rock State Park where we hiked back to our car.


  • We saw three different types of snakes (all non-venomous). My buddy has an intense phobia of them and almost peed his pants the first time we saw one.

    Pros of the trail:

  • Well marked.
  • Difficult.
  • Decent cell phone reception.
  • Waterfalls every mile.
  • No problem with water sources for drinking due to the previous bullet.
  • Plenty of trees for hammocking (which my friend did) and tying up a bear bag.
  • I believe we were the only group we saw that was thru hiking.
  • People were very nice! We love the south!

    Cons of the trail:

  • Saw many day hikers.
  • Guide books were kind of pricey (I have a guide book I'll send to someone if they cover the shipping).
  • 20 miles/day were kinda hard on the knees.
  • Last 15 miles of the trail to the west were pretty uneventful/not many views.


  • I used 'Hiking South Carolina's Foothills Trail' by Scott Lynch. Worked great and it was really small.


  • I highly recommend trail runners... I was the only person from my group who didn't have any blisters.

    All gear I used was ultralight. Please ask questions regarding what gear I used and how I liked going no cook. If you plan on doing this trail anytime in the future, I highly recommend it. I did a lot of research on it and hiked it straight through, so I think I could help out a lot if you have any questions about planning a thru/day hike on it!
u/brand0n · 1 pointr/boardgames

Had several different scenarios, so i'll point out which one

Myself (30/M) , mother (49/F), wife (26/F), sister(11/F) played..

King of Tokyo - this was my younger sisters favorite game, likely because it was easy for her to pickup. I explained it as being a much improved version of yahtzee

Machi Koro - My wife and I always enjoy playing this with others. I explained it to my mother as being a tolerable / non-annoying version of monopoly that went by a lot faster. My sister didn't seem to grasp this one as quickly



Myself and sister played...

Takenoko - she LOVED this game, this the first game she played that offered different ways to win (Panda/farmer/tiles) it was so awesome seeing her pick up on differetn strategies. We played this game 3 times in one night.

Hive - I taught her this game last time I saw her, she absolutely loves it. I've been going easier on her but she's improving everytime we play. I will only let her win if I can tell she's really getting discouraged. We played this twice, after playing Takenoko 3 times.


Myself, wife, + 6 friends (same age group) played...

Codenmaes - I LOVE this game. It is absolutely hilarious to see people rage out over why the heck they'd pick or think THAT word. This game is going to get a TON of usage from me :)

The Resistance - we did a white elephant, this is the game i brought for my gift. It was okay, but I don't think it'd ever be my first game to pickup. I've never been huge on social deduction games. I do feel like it'd be a good gateway that could help people understand the betrayer system in Dead of Winter.

Drawful - this doesn't really count...but all board gaming ppl tend to enjoy it. its fun for 30m~.



My wife and I played...##

Dominion - this is always a fav for the wife and I.

Castles of Brugundy - sadly we DID NOT play this, but we watched instructions...I'm going to play it this week come hell or high water.



I played...

What game could I possibly play alone....yes , yes it is the one and only...

Mage Knight - I FINALLY beat a real scenario! I did a solo variant of blitz conquest. I don't even count the walkthrough / first recon as a real one. I tried to do the solo conquest and I got completely Wrecked. How in the heck do you defeat lvl 5 AND a lvl 10 city. That is wayyyyyyyyyyyy hard.


Bonus stuff!


  • Ordered a copy of Lords of Waterdeep
  • sleeves for Dominion, they fit great!
  • plano box for Mage Knight arrived, its a bit too big. Fills up whole box :|
  • Got Sushi, Go and Exploding Kittens in white elephant


    As far as games with family, I'm going to bring along KoT, Lords of Waterdeep, Macho Koro and Codenames
u/roarmalf · 1 pointr/Gloomhaven

Here's my full write-up, but TL;DR I used the file box instead of the accordion folder. It's bigger, but the handle is nice, and I can fit anything I want in it (except the overly large map).


FYI, I slightly modified the YASS Gloomhaven setup to make the storage a little more efficient/intuitive and keep all the standee bottoms in the combat bin.

I go into more detail here for anyone interested.


I use a variation of the YASS Gloomhaven setup. You can add an accordion folder if you like to save even more setup/breakdown time. I made a few modifications to the layout to make it more intuitive and keep the standees in the combat box. Here's what my updated layout looks like, and here are the files I used. I also lay my planos flat instead of standing them up as it gives slightly more space at the top to fit the board, etc. FYI, I didn't add the counters label, just left that square blank, but everything else is good to go.

I used a Portable File Box to hold my map tiles, rule books, monster stat cards (although I use Gloomy Companion most of the time), city/road event decks, and unlocked items. There are comparable options on Amazon.

Album of full setup



  1. 3x Plano 3600 boxes. Size 11" x 7.25" x 1.75".
  2. 1x Plano 3601 box. Size 11" X 7.25" X 1.13".
  3. Paper/Card Stock (for printing plano labels)
  4. Zip-lock bags

    Note: the plano 3600 on amazon is a 4 pack. You can find them at Dick's Sporting Goods occaisonally for less $$$: 3600,

    Tape (I didn't use any, but others said they needed it to keep the label on the plano lid)
    The Portable File Box I had laying around
    Amazon File Box with stronger latch
    Hanging File Folders I had laying around


    Units 1 Box:
    No changes needed.

    Units 2 Box:
    I moved the Inox Bodyguards to the Boss slot which I shrunk 1 square by moving one large boss to the terrain box. I moved all of the standee bases to the small plano. I used the extra space to move all of the attack modifier decks in here. I store the number tokens and (useless) curse/bless tokens in the 2 remaining slots I opened up.

    *Small Plano (modifiers/tokens):*
    In the small plano I freed up the whole bottom row by moving the number tokens (which largely go unused) to the terrain box, removing the curse/bless tokens (since they aren't used in the game), and moving the element/HP/EXP markers up one space. I shrunk the single damage markers to a single cell (they fit just fine) to make room. The bottom row now houses the standee bases.

    Terrain Box:*
    I used the small dividers from the 3601 to separate out the traps, water, totem, treasure sections (this makes them easy to pull out). I shrunk the Doors by a square and added a square for traps using the short dividers to keep all 4 traps separate. Chopping out the divider to make room for the 3-hex objects was a lot more work than I expected, but it was worth it. I added in the 2 bosses to the bottom of that section since they don't fit anywhere else (and will likely only be used once each).

u/Pseud0pod · 1 pointr/beadsprites

I just started beading and am focusing on Pokemon, so here's a long winded write up. Like a lot of other people here, I started with presorted packs like this one, which have about about 250 of each color in them. Amazon has three packs like that and I bought one of each to get a big variety of sorted colors. This does not give you enough of each color to sustain you for that long, but they are a good starting point and you'll quickly get the feel for what colors you need the most. You'll want 1000 bead packs of any color you're going to use more than a tiny bit of. The 250 in those sorted packs won't last long.

For Pokemon, I've found the most important colors to keep a big stock of are Black, Dark Grey, Grey, and White. Black is used to outline all of them, the Dark Grey is used for a lot of the details within the sprite, and a lot of Pokemon have White bits which the Grey shades well. There's a lot of Pokemon so I'm using a very big variety of colors beyond those. Their sprites are always shaded, too, so you really need a mix of lighter and darker colors. If you're using Light Blue on a Pokemon's body, you'll probably need Dark Blue to shade it, and so on.

I bought a lot on Amazon at first too, but now that I'm getting more into it I've placed a couple big orders to Bakers'KidsCraftsBooks&More on Ebay. It's a little cheaper for 1000 bead packs than Amazon if you're ordering several, and they carry Hama and Nabbi too. This chart is really helpful for figuring out what Hama and Nabbi colors are sufficiently unique from Perler to make them worth purchasing. The downside is that it's a little slower than Amazon, since you have to wait for a combined invoice before you can pay and get them shipped, but it's the cheapest way I've found to get 1000 bead packs of all bead brands.

The square interlocking 29x29 peg boards that other people have mentioned are big enough to fit most Pokemon and smaller sprites on, and you can always link them up for more room. They come with ironing paper and you can also use parchment paper.

I bought these tweezers too. I don't think they're necessary, but they're easier to use than regular tweezers if I have to remove beads that have already been placed. I usually just use my fingers when initially placing beads.

I like these tackle boxes for storage. They have adjustable compartment sizes, so you can make big compartments to dump your 1000 bead packs into. They close very securely and the compartments are flush with the lid, so beads don't mix if you turn it upside down. The only downside is I have seven of them and already have almost filled them up, haha.

Quick edit: All the Pokemon I've made have been based on the small sprites you see in the party, so that's what my color suggestions are geared to.

u/used2bgood · 2 pointsr/random_acts_of_lego

I have over 500 sets, so my storage gets a little pricey, but I used a combination of five things:

  • Akro parts bins for food items, minifig parts, and other small, uncommon pieces.

  • Plano tackle boxes for smaller pieces like 1x3 or 1x2 bricks, that I have in medium quantity, but in all different colors (I sort by color first, then piece type/size)

  • Stack-on boxes because they're large, stackable, dividable, and CHEAP.

    and lastly,

  • Ikea SAMLA bins for bigger bricks (2x8's and such), plates, odd pieces, and wheels. They're clear, stackable, and come with lids.

    Also crucial to my organization is a label maker, and they have good cheap ones at Costco. You could always just print out pictures of the bricks or a box inventory and use packing tape to seal it on, but I like the label maker look.

    My Lego room looks something like this, although nowhere near as many bricks.

    My nephew, who only has about 30 sets, uses small Tupperware type containers to sort the pieces, and keeps them in drawers like this, with a plywood table top bolted through the tops of each cabinet so that he can build and move the table around (although his is four cabinets bolted in a square).

    We also found some cool ideas here, but went with something else that worked better for our house/lifestyle. :)

u/cohare1019 · 4 pointsr/toddlers

So I specifically got new toys so they would be new and novel for the flight. New books, especially touch & feels books which my daughter loves, plus a couple all-time favorite books. For snacks, i found online the best idea that worked wonders - use a flat fishing tackle box - the kind that you can add dividers to ( ). Fill with all sorts of snacks, new and old favorites, and its the toddler sampler platter. Worked great and fit easily in my backpack. I just new if I packed a couple of her fave snacks, that would be the day she decided she didn't want them.

We also made sure to arrive at the airport early and left hubby with our stuff at the gate and her and I basically did laps up and down the terminal to burn as much energy as possible. And if you are flying an airline with first come first serve seating (like Southwest) try to sit by a family with a child of similar age. We sat directing in front of a family with a little girl about the same age as ours and after they both woke up from their naps, they entertained each other playing peek a boo around the seats.

u/innoxenxe · 2 pointsr/DnD

Links to materials:

  • Plano 2-3700: amazon ~$9.08
  • Feldherr FS010B: amazon (5pcs) ~$15.99, amazon (10pcs) ~$16.99

    About the container:

    Using a fishing stowaway tackle box and some foam, it's really easy to make a neat little container to hold all your TTRPG stuff. You can stack more or less layers of foam inside divisions to make it easier to reach (the potions have 3 layers) or to make more room for bigger things (the d20s only have 1 layer). Half-divisions hold standard 1-inch base miniatures perfectly (the fairy lady is a metal mini printed off Hero Forge).

    The tackle box used is one of the larger sizes Plano has to offer, but if you don't have as much stuff to stash, the Plano Prolatch 3600 or the Plano Prolatch 3500 are smaller options that also work great. These sizes are better for players who want a case like this or DMs with nothing else but a couple dice sets and some minis.

    Keep in mind that there will be a lot of foam left over. The 2-3700 only required two or three sheets of foam to triple-stack the entire container, and I got myself a 10-pack. If you need to get rid of the extra foam, getting a couple 3500's for your players is a nice gift, considering they only run about $4 each. I got a four-pack of the 2-3700's since most of my players also DM, so hopefully that uses up the rest of the 10-pack of foam.

u/CornflakeJustice · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Storage - This is also useful for transporting bits boxes or models and the top is great for tanks or modelling supplies. I would suggest going to your local outdoor shop and buying there so you can get the size you want. I ordered from Amazon without thinking to check the size and now I have an adorable little tackle box. It's great for bits, but not so excellent for army transportation.

Brushes -
I generally use the smallest I can find of the filbert, spotter, and angle shader. I also have a deer foot, but that was because the lady at the art shop was too good at her job.

GW Paints - The new line is pretty excellent as a new painter. I haven't dealt with Vallejo but I know my LGS sells them and a couple people use them. I hear they're much better with airbrush.

Plastic Cement

And whatever superglue you like.

And of course you'll need sprue clippers, an exacto, a toothbrush, and files, but it doesn't really matter which of those you get.

u/westcoastsnorkel · 1 pointr/flyfishing

Wild Waters on Amazon has great starter kits. Rod, reel, fly line, rod case, even flys.



Got something similar for my girl. Excellent quality. Definitely in your budget.

You don't need a name-brand product to have a great time on the water. Save the money.

Tight lines and good luck!

u/Lyianx · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

Depends on how many things you have.

I started with this Plano 3700, but out grew it pretty fast. I have several additional pro-latch boxes of various layouts to hold the added content.

But thats just for storing at home, or (when i play HotAC) allows me to pick the 4 trays i need, put them in, with all the large ships in the top section (with pluck foam to hold them), and carry that.

Now if im just taking a couple built lists to my FLGS to play for a day, i put my play stuff in this Frabill Softbag that holds plano 3600 size trays.

In that, this tournament tray fits to hold my range rulers/maneuver templates and such. (They also make the tray to fit in the 3700 size as well)

The plano trys are good because the compartments can be adjusted to fit the size of the ship to reduce the amount of space thats wasted. I also go a bit further and add some cotton in to protect the ships paint and so they dont rattle around too much.

Here are some (rather old) pics of my collection in it.

u/Br0kenM0nkey · 3 pointsr/Gloomhaven

This is my setup. Setup/Teardown of each play session isn't troublesome anymore.

-2 Counter Trays. I can store most of the enemy standees and some of the random tokens like treasure chests and traps.

-Plano 23620-01. This is where I store all of the tokens like XP, Damage, Conditions, etc. This is also where the rest of the big enemy standees go (except the huge dragon). I can also fit random tokens like Doors, Bookshelves/Coffins, etc.

-Smead Expanding File. This is where I organize all the tile/map pieces. Everything fits comfortably except the "T" pieces.

-Avery Binder and BCW Pocket Pages. This binder acts like the Item Shop and can easily be opened to show available items. I even covered locked items with construction paper to be "unlocked" when Prosperity reaches a certain level.

-Ultra Pro Deck Boxes. I store everyone's Class cards here. The bottom compartment holds the Class/HP/XP tokens, Items purchased, and Attack Modifier Deck.

-Construction Paper. As a solution to organize/retrieve the needed enemy Stats Cards and Enemy Ability Decks, I created a sleeve out of construction paper for the Stat Card, leaving enough room to fit the respective Ability Deck as well. I sleeve most of the cards, so I put all 8 ability cards into a "City/Event sleeve", then throw it into the Stat Card sleeve I just made. Hope that made sense.

u/steppen79 · 1 pointr/flyfishing

Here's my two cents. While I agree with others on Orvis Clearwater being a good starter, what is most valuable in terms of bang for buck, etc., I recommend being very basic for your first set up. If you end up liking it, this will be your backup gear as some day down the road, you are going to buy way better gear than what everyone is mentioning here. My first combo was this:

I still use it on occasion and have like 4 other rods/reels now. I have a Cabelas LSi as my "good rod" and a Ross Cimarron as my reel. I recommend going basic for your first combo and finding out if you like the sport. If you do, you'll want to get something better than an entry combo anyway.

The Prestige one you linked looks like it would probably get you started and has some of the other tools you would have to buy as well. Just a pack of some sort, forceps, nippers, and floatant (all things I consider must haves) will set you back $40. Some of the other included stuff looks pretty shitty but on the whole, seems like a good deal to me. If Cabelas makes the rod, it should be part of their warranty program as well.

u/updog357 · 2 pointsr/cigars

There is a lot of good suggestions so far, I'm going to add some links and try to provide additional info.

These are the two hygrometers that I use: $14 or $24. They both work great and I see them in pictures of other people's humidors. Your call if you want to go with something else. If you do, make sure that it is digital and can be calibrated.

For a Tupperdor or other Humidor, try to figure out how many cigars you will likely have on hand. Lets say you only are going to keep 5 on hand, if so than the Plano 3440 is a great option. If you go with a different container, make sure that the lid has a gasket (see pict 2) and there are clamps to ensure the container stays airtight.

u/MrMatthewJ · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

I bought a Plano 728 that has been working pretty well for me. It doesn't come with side containers, but I've been told these ones will fit nicely.

A lot of others here have the Plano 732 and I've heard good things about that one as well, but I think it's a little more expensive. It does come with side containers though.

If you have a Wal-Mart nearby, they have pretty good prices on them, but you can also get them online.

u/ptowngiant · 2 pointsr/ImperialAssaultTMG

I use and a zipup binder. I only play skirmish and the app, so my system is based around that. I have every expansion except General Weiss.

The two compartments on the top corners hold at-st, at-dp, and the Rancor.

The top opens and holds one of the smaller boxes (normally stored in the sides) two smaller boxes, and my supply deck for the app. Also the tank. I keep all tokens and dice in that box so it comes out onto the table easier. The smaller box is a token/dice set for a friend, and the other smaller box is for map tokens (crates, objectives, etc.) My doors are stored in their as well.

The left side compartment contains all the tiles for the app (core box tiles) and any skirmish maps I want to play. The right side contains all the campaign hero cards (and their upgrade cards) in individual bags (so a hero card and their upgrades are together).

The middle is used for the rest of the figures, one for rebels, one for scum, one for imperials.

I have a zipup binder that has card holders. The order I have in there is:
-Deployment cards sorted by faction then by points
-Bots and shapeshifter cards
-Command cards alphabetically
-Rewards alphabetically
-Mission cards by map alphabetically
-Skirmish map sheets alphabetically (in page holders)

The rules are kept in the inside pocket on the binder.

All the other tiles, cards and extra tokens are stored in the core box.

u/_Despereaux · 3 pointsr/Gloomhaven

I got these bad boys in the 4-pack option:

I was able to fit almost everything from the cardboard punch-outs that wasn't a big map tile into 3 of those boxes, but the 4th one was useful to have more dividers (I used almost every single one). The pieces fit very well but it remains to be seen 1) how easy it is to get the little pieces out of those compartments with big fingers, and 2) how easy it is to re-pack the Gloomhaven box with those containers in it - although that only really matters if you'll be traveling with the game.

If $20 is too much to spend on top of the base game, I think you could also do fairly well with a lot of small ziplock baggies.

u/jonowelser · 3 pointsr/FishingForBeginners

I've done some trout fishing but am certainly not a trout expert and don't know anything about PA fishing (I've only trout fished in WI/IA or the rockies). My first step would be to find a good local fishing store (always the #1 fishing resource) and ask what's working or google fishing reports for where you'll be (either like DNR reports or online forums).

On my spinning reel I usually use a 4 lb fluorocarbon leader that's 2-4 feet long, and am either using powerbait trout bait (either yellow/tan or orange) on a small hook or using little spinners (like mepps or panther martin, with black and gold or silver/white patterns being my staples).

I suck at flyfishing but sometimes flies are hard to beat. There are a couple ways to use flies without a full flyfishing setup:

  • On a spinning reel, by tying a fly onto a long fluorocarbon or tippet leader. You'll need a clear casting bobber to add weight/help cast.
  • Using a tenkara rod (you can sometimes find good deals on tenkara kits for less than $100) or a rod like this - tenkara rod are pretty much just long flyfishing poles with no reel (and thus a limited cast distance), but are much less expensive and more easy to use.

    Waders are personal preference - you can also usually fish from the bank, or depending on water temp just stand in the water with swim trunks and keens. And you can keep fish on a stringer, in a creel bag, or even just toss it on the bank if you're going to clean it soon.
u/Dayruhlll · 1 pointr/Tenkara

If you're interested in fly fishing I'd strongly reccomend WildWater's 5wt (technically 5/6wt) rod. It's $90 on amazon, is amazon prime eligible, and has an awesome lifetime warranty (its like $15 bucks to replace a rod with the warranty). Oh yeah, it also comes with a handful of trout flies, 4lb leader and a nice fly box. If you have any questions about fly fishing I'll do my best to answer them.

u/bdh008 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

The morning sun peeks over the mountain, as a Bald Eagle begins his first hunt of the day. The rainbow trout jump in the excitement, creating the first ripples on the calm body of water. An American Flag slowly dances in the slow crisp air, seeming to respond to the sounds of the birds chirping. A man on an old wooden dock sends out his first cast, hoping to catch something that will provide a good breakfast for him. This right here is America. Fishing is patriotic, fishing is All-American, fishing gives me another reason to love this great country I am from. That is why I believe this tackle box is a heck of a way to show patriotism, and why I would love to have it.

u/m00dawg · 2 pointsr/boardgames

I found a shallow one off of Amazon. Also found the black plastic tray I've heard mentioned, but the shipping on that thing is non-trivial to make it worthwhile. Looks just about perfect for the ship upgrades though.

I'm thinking one of those plastic boxes might be good enough for now. Surely it'd be better than throwing a bunch of these tiles in plastic bags.

u/blakrazor · 1 pointr/gloving

If I remember, /u/ProdigyLightshow is a huge fan of kases so he would give some good insight. My friends who use them like them, click responsiveness is particularly good for conjuring and color changing easily so it might be directed towards a style. And for the lights shape, I switched from eDot to micromax recently (long story, but I don't usually use eDots :P) and it still felt weird and bulky. So it might just be an adjustment thing. If not, grab some micromax as well. All cases are pretty cheap anyways.

With your storing problem, you might want to invest in a box such as a fishing box or small storage box with separate containers. This is the one I have:

Essentially, it'll help keep your collection organized as well as helping store lights so they don't get pressed on or anything. I've also heard keeping gloves in hard shell eye glass cases work well too.

u/Lord_Seacow · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

For storage I highly recommend this Plano case. I then have a roll of packing foam to help further protect my ships. I also use some of the leftover plastic packaging that the X-Wing models cam in as dividers to hold things like templates and such. That box will hold a massive amount of ships and everything else that goes with the game, for a long time I even kept my Armada collection in the same box. I also use a separate card storage box, but that's only really necessary if you have a very large collection.

For accessories a set of acrylic movement templates are very nice to have, but are hardly necessary as the cardboard ones hold up pretty well for a while. I've gotten two sets from Curled Paw Creatives and highly recommend them!

u/jayrockslife · 2 pointsr/rccars
  1. First off, Get one of these to hold your spare parts and tools

  2. Get a set of Hex Screwdrivers. Just search amazon or your preferred online or local hobby shop.

  3. RPM A-Arms. Those were the first things I broke on my Slash 4x4. They're about $10 for a set of 2 and you'll want to upgrade them all eventually.

  4. If you're off-roading, get extra spur gears because a rock will eventually get in there and chew it up.

  5. Miscellaneous set of hex screws and extra body clips.

    As for a charger and Lipo battery;
    I have a Duratrax Onyx charger. Not sure of the exact model. There are better more expensive ones, but this one gets the job done.

    I just ordered batteries from here
    Only ran them once, but I've heard plenty of good things about them.

    I'm sure some others will chime in and give you some advice. Good luck and have fun with your new rc car!
u/talltad · 6 pointsr/Fishing

Good eye man and it's a fantastic setup for young kids. My daughter recently turned three and wanted to go straight to a Spinning Setup.

Okuma Safina Pro - Ice Fishing Reel

Okuma Celilo - Ultra Light

My brother got this setup for her birthday and it's the first time out. It's an incredible light setup and for her size and age she seems to handle it pretty easily. For Sub $60, it's a fantastic setup for her and I'm starting to become a big fan of the Okuma brand.

Edit: I'm also a Giant, 6'6" so it also makes the rod look small.

u/Woo-Hoo1 · 2 pointsr/boardgames

#1 Silicone Cupcake Liners - great for holding chits, coins, etc. at the table.

#2 Condiment containers with lids Locally, I can only grab these at cheap Dollar-type store, in the "party" section no-less. But having simple, cheap, 2-2.5 oz. plastic containers with lids that you can use to hold some pieces in game-boxes is great.

#3 Plano Boxes of various sizes - These CAN be great for some games to hold chits, dice, etc. in the game box and/or at the table. Some have a love/hate relationship with them. Currently, I only use one for the dice in Roll for the Galaxy, and the one I have is perfect for that.

u/br3or · 3 pointsr/boardgames

I'd suggest just biting the bullet and getting a replacement. No reason to spend your hard earned money and not get a new in good shape copy. The game has a ton of replayability and unless you have a small shelf you can dedicate to GH alone, you're going to want to be able to box everything up.

As for organization methods, I'd suggest YASS on BGG.

YASS uses these boxes so you have a link to them directly on Amazon. Here and Here. The second link actually comes with an extra box you can use if you get the expansion or for other games.

This expanding folder works great for all the map pieces and makes set up much faster.

This is what I went with for the city's item shop It works great, although I couldn't find a binder so I just put some loose zip ties in the holes so it works as such. Just keep the locked cards flipped over and you can see the item numbers for when you unlock them. Some of the cards are a tight fit but it works well, just split any items that have a quantity of 4 into 2 windows of 2. This also comes with plenty of extra sheets for the expansion (I hope).

As for the extra cards that get moved in and out of the game, I'd suggest just plastic baggies.

Good luck, the game is a blast!

u/maximum-snark · 7 pointsr/sysadmin

There's a ton of these out on the market from different companies: but look for a board about the size of a standard piece of paper that's just a bunch of criss-crossed elastic straps. Usually found in the automotive section or luggage section of most large all-in-one stores like Walmart.

The one I have is a Cocoon Grid It, but I've seen similar things for cheaper elsewhere.

If you have a ton of flash drives go to any craft store and look at Bead Organizers, the little compartments usually are a perfect fit for most flash drives. They have similar things in anything that carries fishing supplies, but in my area those tend to be more expensive.

That said, I've seen some sysadmins use nice tackle boxes for different connectors and dongles. Not the big boxes, but something like this that they keep in their backpack.

u/Moumar · 2 pointsr/Fishing

My spinning setup for trout is an Okuma Celilo 6' 6" Ultra light and whilst it is only $30 I would class it amongst most of the rods in the $75-150 price range. It's an extremely good rod for the money. I actually got mine from walmart when I was on a trip to the US. Originally I was planning on just using the rod while I was there then giving it away before I came back to Australia but since I like it so much I brought it home. I've had two more shipped over from the US as well because they don't sell them here and an equivalent rod here would be about three times the price with shipping. I've just paired one of mine up with a Shimano Sedona FE 1000 which is a new reel to the market but so far I'm very impressed. I have it some 4lb Fins Windtamer Braid on mine which when I just look for on amazon is on $5 at the moment which is very cheap. Normally it's around $17 a spool. I just bought 4 spools but there's still two left so you could get the rod, reel and braid for $100.

u/Kalranya · 3 pointsr/XWingTMG

I use Ultimate Guard binders (and sleeves, for what it's worth) for pilots and upgrades, and they protect well, but they're slow to use and a pain to organize. The damage deck I just keep in a bag with my travel token kit, which is a teensy little Plano box.

Speaking of Plano, the default ship storage solution, at least here in the US, is the 1374, which will hold up to approximately 100 ships, plus base chits and dials. No idea if they exist on your side of the pond or not, but if they do, look into them.

If you want to protect your ships a bit better, Sir Willis' micro hangers are the DIY of choice and have the benefit of making you look way more slick and professional than any of us actually are about our little toy space ships.

Feldherr cases work great, if you're willing to pay for them. Since I'm not worried about scratching paintjobs or breaking glued joints on X-Wing like I am other minis, I think foam is overkill. If you want foam but a cheaper option, consider KR Multicase stuff.

u/JetskiMark · 2 pointsr/ElectricSkateboarding

Thank you for your thoughts on your R2.

Mine weighs 24 pounds on my scale.

I figured you were being facetious about getting ripped because it is so heavy.

I replaced the bushings after my first ride. I had some Randal 180 trucks from another longboard already. I used the tall stepped cone 91a bushings and small flat washers from those. They fit perfectly.

It carves better and no wheel bite. The stock large cupped washers were limiting the turning. I like to keep the trucks on all of my boards on the loose side, with the front always looser.

I also wedged my front truck 7 degrees with a Khiro angled riser. I did this on all of my eboards and on many of my longboards. I like to carve and turn sharp when necessary.

I really like my R2. I only have about 30 miles on it so far. I hope it proves to be reliable.

How many miles on yours?

How did you fall?

u/spoonerhouse · 1 pointr/arduino

I have a larger version of the one you're looking at. I love it. I use it to store my electronics and quadcopter stuff. It is not too big at all, and you will absolutely grow into it as things progress. I used to have lots of empty space but now it's basically totally filled with awesome electronics goodness!

u/z2amiller · 2 pointsr/diyelectronics

I have one of these Plano boxes and I really like it. There's a large area on top that fits tools (wire strippers, crimpers, tweezers, desoldering supplies, etc), and then three drawers. The two bottom drawers are double-depth, so they fit prototyping supplies like jumper wires, breadboards, etc very well.

I've since outgrown that box but bought a four-pack of these Plano 3700 boxes. Apparently that is a pretty standard size and other companies make holders and stuff for them if you end up with a ton of them.

For smaller components (SMD) these tiny little boxes are great. One of those boxes holds a whole reel of 5,000 0603-sized resistors. Some people also use small paper envelopes to hold their components.

u/Melphor · 6 pointsr/XWingTMG

This Plano box for storing my extra ships and components. I have 4.

This Plano tacklebox for storing and transporting the lists that I'm currently playing. You can definitely fit all that. I also recommend getting some bubble wrap. They sell it in large rolls at hobby stores like Hobby Lobby. I bought a roll for like $5 a couple years ago and I still haven't used it all. It makes for good padding.

u/fazalmajid · 2 pointsr/homelab

For small parts I use these, which are inexpensive and very practical thanks to the movable dividers. I use them for everything form small tools to my daughter's Lego.

The Akro-Mills box is pretty good, and I haven't found better for a reasonable price. You could also use stackable plastic shoeboxes (Sterlite et al) or stackable bins like these:

For cables, the best option is to simply bag them in heat-sealable poly bags. That stops them from tangling together, and you can toss them in a plastic bin (Rubbermaid roughneck or equivalent).

u/Redlyr · 3 pointsr/Fishing

Off the top of my head, a good multitool like a Leatherman.

A scale with measuring tape. For making sure you are within a size limit or for bragging rights.

Bogagrip like grabber or Fish Gripper for handling fish.

Hemostat for extracting a deep hook.

A good hat, UV rated shirt, sunblock and mosquito/tick repellent. Maybe a backpack with water reservoir a la CamelBak. I also keep a small first aid kit and a hook removal kit just in case.

Dry bag if you are going to be on a boat or kayak. No one likes a water damaged phone.


A folding net. Nothing is worse than having a good fish and losing because it too big to drag it up on the bank. I lost a good sized trout last week because I didn't have a net handy.

u/Lone--R · 3 pointsr/geocaching

Problems that often come up with newbie cache ownership:

u/Jokers247 · 3 pointsr/ImperialAssaultTMG

Do you own everything?

I use the Plano tackle box, DVD case, and Card binder storage solution and it works really well.

so another user posted this except for he linked the wrong storage box. Ill link the storage box that would work for it all. If you paint minis then i would suggest possibly felt/foam lining the plano storage boxes. This really is a great way to store the game.
Pie in the sky way to store everything: For map tiles: AmazonBasics Nylon CD/DVD Wallet (128 Capacity)
For command cards/character and imperial decks: BCW PRO 16-POCKET PAGE - TOPLOAD - (20 CT. PACK) FOR X-WING AND ARMADA UPGRADES
For agenda cards and mission cards: Ultra Pro 25/9 Pocket Page Protectors
Putting them in a binder lets you more easily find a specific card they fit in these sheets even with card sleeves. I bought a nice binder that has slip sleeves in it so that I can store all the rules and skirmish/mission pamphlets along with the sleeved card sheets.The CD case holds any tile 4 spaces wide I keep the larger tiles separate and was able to fit every expansion in the CD case.
For the minis and everything else: Plano Angled Tackle System 732

u/WB6GSE · 1 pointr/amateurradio

So couple things here. As far as the mast collapsing to "reasonable size" is very open ended. To me in my big SUV 6 foot is reasonable. So someone in a Toyota Yaris, 6 foot is not so reasonable. :-)

While hanging a wire from a tree might be feasible in some area's in others it isn't. (Ask me why I bought a buddipole to use portable in Las Vegas hahaha)

You might want to look into a crappie pole, I found a 20 footer on Amazon that collapses down to like 39 inches. It's less than $29.00 and the first two 5 star reviews are about using it for a wire antenna support. ( Then you could either use it for a low inverted V or even a sloper type antenna. While you may not break any distance records with an antenna this low, it will be better than no antenna.

Good luck and let me know when you are headed out this way and maybe we can try a QSO on VHF/UHF and maybe even try HF. I laughingly talk to a neighbor of mine on 6/20/40M anytime I hear him on as he is all of 1 mile away. :-)

u/siningy · 2 pointsr/AnimeFigures

I use a variety of tackle boxes from Plano. They have adjustable dividers but I find the 23620 sized ones to be perfect sized for nendoroid faces.

My walmart also sells a larger sized one with a row of large bays and 2 rows of smaller bays I find useful when figures have really large parts that don't fit. The large boxes are like less than 4 dollars at walmart in the fishing section.

u/Poop-Back-and-Forth · 2 pointsr/gundeals

Have one as well. If you need a rangebag do not hesitate to get one of these. The quality is excellent and it has plenty of room to fit all your stuff.

These storage boxes fit in there very well. I have 3 in there.

u/major_lugo · 2 pointsr/tacklebox

I used to have a crappy $12.99 tacklebox from walmart. It sucked.

Before my last fishing trip, I switched to my old backpack with 3 of these stuffed inside.

Its AWESOME. It fits all of my lures, I can sort them way easier, I have enough room to bring along everything I need, and my hands are free for walking down steep trails to get to the water.

I also got a smaller double sided one. One side is weights, the other is hooks.

Its a really nice setup and I'm really happy with it.

u/JoshGiff · 3 pointsr/ImperialAssaultTMG

[Map tile storage](AmazonBasics Nylon CD/DVD Wallet (128 Capacity) Holds everything that has come out with a little room to spare. I keep my biggest tiles (5 or more spaces wide) separate from this in the tackle box.

[Everything but the large figures and map tiles](Plano Angled Tackle System I used pluck foam in each of the areas where I have painted figures to keep them from moving around. Bantha rancor and AT-STs don't fit but I used pluck foam to make an insert in my large core box to hold the large figures.

[Pluck foam](Pelican 1301 Replacement 4 Piece Pick N Pluck Foam Set for 1300 Case Used this stuff to line my figures in the tackle box and create an insert for the core box. Might be worth getting two sets to have extra plucked foam for minis in the tackle box. If they're unpainted you should be fine to do without though.

I can post pictures when I get home. I don't have everything from Jabba's realm in there yet and I haven't made the rancor insert yet but it definitely will fit.

u/bluethreads · 1 pointr/geocache

this is the case I bought.

I found this site to customize my log. The site is in a different language, there may be a way to change it to English but I didn't need to go through the trouble as it is easy to navigate through, (it provides the option to change the words on the log to english). I liked that I could create an easy custom template.

edit: actually, I think I've changed my mind and want to customize my log using different themed paper.

u/Tasrine · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

apologies for the shitty-length link, but this tackle-box works rather perfectly to hold most of a current collection. I highly recomend it.

It will of course, not hold the Raider, Tantive, etc, but any of the large ships fit just fine

u/thetripitaka · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

Worth mentioning if you want to try Tenkara you can buy near disposable rods off of Amazon for cheap $8 Tenkara rod

Also dragon tail Tenkara has excellent starter line and fly kits for $18.

Highly recommend starting there and upscaling your gear as you progress.

u/csikes1105 · 1 pointr/Legodimensions

I purchase two storage containers off of Amazon that have worked great. I haven't taken pictures of mine yet but if you check out the comments on the Amazon link, someone else posted their pieces in these boxes. They work nicely because they are extra deep and can fit almost all of the characters in a standing position. Amazon link

u/TaruNukes · 1 pointr/DungeonsAndDragons

Plano 732

To be honest I don’t like it as much as some of the others I’ve seen. It was a Christmas present so I just rolled with it. The area under the top lid is angled at a steep slope and you can’t really fit as much as you’d like up there.

And as for the minis, they were not part of the kickstarter just the cedar d20 dice box

u/NoogiesForMyWife · 3 pointsr/Gloomhaven

So I actually just followed this BGG thread, downloaded and printed the templates that someone else made, and I bought the Plano boxes off amazon. They are good material and feel sturdily made. I don’t have any concerns with the purchase and am definitely happy so far! Much cheaper than the inserts available and it all fits in the box with the lid just barely not closing all the way.

4 pack Plano3600 -

1 Plano 3601 -

u/Madnapali · 3 pointsr/zombicide

Definitely keep them separate. I have a full collection, and sounds like you do, too. In a large Plano tackle box I keep the things that are shared between games, such as dice, dice tower, paper, etc. The rest of the stuff is split into file boxes per game, and I put the trays of figurines into the tacklebox for travel.

You can get spare trays just about anywhere that sells fishing gear. Happy storing!

u/try_another4 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

For your drawers but not your knickers. The slots are adjustable.

Door racks so your over-door items will never be so organized!

And a table-top rotating organizer for all your rotating and organizing needs. I just really love things that rotate. Plus, this one takes advantage of vertical storage.

Little boxes on the hillside. The hiiiills are alive...

u/Yoduh99 · 1 pointr/ImperialAssaultTMG

two of these were great for me for organizing everything in the core game + twin shadows + wave 1 ally/villain pack figures all into the core game box. All the figures went in 1 plano box, all tokens and small cards fit in the 2nd plano box. larger cards I divided into labeled baggies that fit them. Most map tiles also fit into ziploc bags which I labeled and divided by map tile number, 0-10, 11-19, 20-29 and 30-39. Only the AT-STs, round/threat dial, and the very largest map tiles are put into the box unorganized (if I hypothetically had larger ziploc bags then I could have all map tiles organized and stored), though they're pretty snug in there surrounded by everything else.

After I got Return to Hoth I added all I could to my first two plano boxes but still had to use a 3rd small plano box to fit additional figures. I keep this box and hoth specific map tiles in the hoth box.

u/Agaricus2sporus · 2 pointsr/MicroFishing

This is the one I have.

When I bought it it was only $9. Now they are listed for way too much. It broke the first time I took it out on a little Brook trout. I repaired it and have used it several times since then. I also added a holder for the line and made a little cloth case for it. All in I have maybe $12 invested in the whole set up. Its fun but I'm sure I would be laughed out of the room by any serious tenkara guy.

I use old fly 4wt fly line as the level line and made a short furled leader. I can take pictures of the modifications I've made and upload them if you are interested.

u/logicthug · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I ended up getting one of these for most of my vape stuff at home. Works pretty well as a coilmaster kit fits right in the top perfectly.

u/vehementvelociraptor · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Plano customizable box for most of my tools and drip tips. Holds my ohm meter and wire as well.

For my juices I use a plastic ammo can. Nice, tight, dark, and big enough to hold a shitload of juice.

For the batteries I just use the double 18650 holders and label them. They stack pretty nice.

u/Ride_the_wind · 1 pointr/troutfishing

I am a big fan of the Diawa Minispin. Landed fish from 6 inch trout all the way to 4 pound bass. It's case also has a built in tackle box capable of holding smaller lures such as spinners. Great price as well.

u/Panzerx · 1 pointr/backpacking

I went with 1 other friend but I do want to do a solo one soon. >May I ask what kind of fishing rod setup you used.
Pole I have . I recommend it, it is very light and worked well. I didnt catch anything with it yet so hopefully it'll hold up well to that.

u/LictorSevas · 2 pointsr/ImperialAssaultTMG

I use this Plano box for all of the figures. I use the side draws for deck boxes separated for hero abilities, imperial agendas, shop items etc. Up top I have the hero cards and all the cards from our current campaign.

I keep all of the tokens and dice in a 3D printed holder I found on etsy.

As for the map tiles I keep those in the gambit and shadow boxes. Go 7 gaming had some nice organizers for that. They also have organizers for all the boxes but it's easier to haul around the Plano case and the two smaller boxes then to try and carry everything.

u/Evodius · 1 pointr/bassfishing

I had this scale actually tested and it's incredibly accurate for the price.

I have a small fish grip attached to it by a small key ring so I don't even use the hook.

Works great.

If you wanted an all-in-one thing my buddy has this Rapala scale. It's really awesome and we use it to cull fish.

u/DoctorBandage · 3 pointsr/ProBendingArena

Baggies are obviously the cheapest storage solution. I believe the game comes with a handful, so you don't even have to spend any extra money.

The next best thing is Plano boxes. They're likely the plastic tackle boxes you're talking about. Amazon should have them, as should any local Walmart, sporting goods store, and even some craft stores. Something like this one should work well for lots of games, but I haven't done any measuring and you might want a smaller one for Pro-bending.

If you want a hobby within a hobby, look up how to DIY foamcore inserts. See r/foamcore if you want to dive down the rabbit hole. Foamcore inserts are custom inserts you design and build yourself. This can get expensive and is rather time consuming, so first-timers beware. But it's the only way to get the exact type of insert you want.

The pièce de résistance are wooden inserts from companies like the Broken Token, Meeple Realty, etc. These things are always very well designed, but usually very expensive and a bit heavy. At the moment, I don't believe there are any of these designed yet, nor do I know of any companies with plans to design a Pro-bending insert.

u/bsddork · 1 pointr/networking

I tackled this problem a while ago. We use clear plastic storage bins with labels to quickly identify the item and use. It makes keeping everything organized easier, and when someone is finished with something, they just return it to the appropriate bin.

If you give people a easy way to organize, they tend to participate.

We use fishing tackle boxes to organize all the XCVRs. Each bin is labeled with the specs (ie. 10G SFP+ SR / J9150A).

Fiber patch cable & DACs are stored in bins like this:

u/ponderthis1 · 1 pointr/Fishing

Just to give you another choice I've heard decent things about the Daiwa Minispin from a friend of mine. Although I've never used it on the water I checked it out and it seemed pretty decent and I personally would trust a Daiwa over a Shakespeare in terms of quality of spinning reels.

u/cheffrey · 2 pointsr/WildernessBackpacking

I see everyone fly fishing. I use a shakespeare rod and a daiwa reel. All you need is 10# test and a hand size tackle box with flys , hooks, weights, and lures. All in all about 8oz. The best is waking up and catching nightcrawlers and heading down to the lake or creek. You'll catch anything with those. I have a bunch of joes flys b/c you can get hung up on the bottom a lot when you're deep out there. Make sure you have the right licenses when fishing in that area. I only cook bluegill when I catch them, if they are the size of my hand or bigger. Those should be the only fish in abundance. Always catch and release trout and bass unless you are stuck out there and in survival mode. Maybe bring a hobo meal with you. Vegetables covered in olive oil salt and pepper wrapped in foil. You can open it up and place in the fire. Remember always kill the fish before you cook it. The fish has to be past a certain phase of rigor mortis before you eat it. And have fun.

u/20four12 · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

The Plano 1364 trays are not deep enough to fit the ships on bases even if you lay them down, but the Plano 1374 tackle box most definitely is capable of doing that for almost all of the small ships.

It's the one I use. Plano 1374

u/lettercarrier86 · 2 pointsr/Fishing_Gear

I carry a backpack:


I can easily fit 4 of these plano boxes in it:


I have posted pictures of my setup recently if you want to look at my history. I'll never deny I carry way too much stuff with me, but if I can carry it without a problem then why not is how I look at it lol.

u/ConfusedUs · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

Plano tackle boxes and the associated trays are pretty much the de-facto standard. Some people spring for foam, but almost everyone I know uses a plano tackle box.

I have this box:

Beware: there's a very similar box that's like half the price, but it's also half the size. It doesn't work for X-Wing.

If that's overkill, get a couple of the trays that fit inside of it. There are assorted 3700-series trays with slots of difference sizes. You can see these in person at any outdoor store if you want to check sizes.

u/bicyclehobo · 1 pointr/bicycletouring

I carry a cheap 4'6" telescopic pole, a small shakespeare reel, and a couple lures with me and use them whenever I get a chance. To me it's well worth the price of a weekly fishing license if I get even one day of fishing in. The only thing that even compares with my love of cycling and camping is fishing. I have looked at a number of hand reels but you can find a set up that will work well for less than $50.

Rod [select 4' 6"]-

u/TallWhiteandNerdy · 1 pointr/Fishing
u/mysterious_gamer · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

I use these for ship dials: They fit perfectly though I don't think the plastic dial upgrades would fit. There isn't must wiggle room.

I also have one of these in the folder section of the binder for all the other tokens:

edit I keep the plastic ship bases in with my battlefoam and maneuver templates in the back most folder up against the hard binder side to prevent them from getting bent.

u/buckyreal · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Ugh, it's come up in price (to $26), I paid $17 for mine...

Tackle box.. 30ml bottles fit nicely in the organizer trays, tanks in the smaller slots, and my tools, wick wire and spare batteries fit nicely in the top.

u/dx_dt2 · 2 pointsr/steroids

You bro, you definitely need an upgrade, gotta show some respect to the gear haha. This one looks nice

u/DeleriumTrigger · 1 pointr/bassfishing

I got this one, based on reviews and price. It worked alright for me in it's initial test run, and seemed pretty accurate, but I have not compared it side by side with anything else (link to live action shot).

Complaints are that you have to actually turn it off or else it just stays on in your bag like mine did, as well as a teeny little hook attached that would be good if you had a gripper but I do not.

u/znark · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

I think that has fiberglass main shaft and aluminum extensions.

You might look at fiberglass fishing pole like [Shakespeare Wonderpole]( Advantage is collapsed length is 4ft vs 8ft. I was looking at painters pole until realized that 8ft is annoying length to transport even in car.

The painters pole can hold more substantial antennas and would work better for DIY Buddipole or Yagi. The collapsible fiberglass poles are great for wire antennas.

u/StillLearning2 · 6 pointsr/amateurradio

This. It is all about timing. During the day, when there are no solar storms affecting us, 20m tends to be open, and fairly well-used. You have to watch reports and then just spin the dial to see.

But yes, the bigger issue seems to be your set up taking so long. My portable setup takes 10 minutes tops. Get a pole like this that is light to carry, and put your antennas up quickly in an inverted V.

Even faster, attach a heavy object, like an adjustable wrench with a hole on one end, to the end of some paracord and toss it over a tree limb. Untie the wrench, and attach the line (with an egg insulator) to the middle of the antenna, then pull the paracord to lift the antenna into an inverted V. That takes about 2 minutes, mostly to unwind the antenna and power cord. Depends on how accurately you can throw the paracord. Using this method, you can leave the poles at home. Everything fits in a backpack.

You can get solar reports on these sites, among others:


    Edit: whoops, it looks like you already have a 20 ft pole, now that I re-read your post. Sorry about that. Yep, I'd leave the heavy larger pole. You shouldn't need it. I never take something taller than the 20 ft fishing pole, and get plenty of activity on CW. So to answer your question: lately, 20m and 30m have usually been Iclosed by sundown, often before. It has noticeably gotten worse over the last 6-12 months. But 20m is still used a lot during the day.
u/revmamacrystal · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
  1. So excited! soap

    Cream Soda Mix

    Divider Box

    Movie Room Sign

    Pill Keyholders

    Diaper Pail Stick Ups

    Those Himalaya's of the mind! Great contest!
u/sparr · 1 pointr/boardgames

3 Plano boxes works pretty well and is a lot cheaper than a good insert.

u/LoyalToTheGroupOf17 · 2 pointsr/chess

Chess piece storage boxes tend to be fairly expensive. An alternative is to go to your local fishing shop and by something like this:

They exist in a variety of sizes, and with the adjustable dividers, they can be made to fit almost any chess set. If you want extra protection, buy an extra big box and add some styrofoam for padding. But even without styrofoam, your pieces should be safer than in an ordinary chess storage box.

u/Chief5000 · 1 pointr/EldritchHorror

I just used a $12 plastic ammo crate from amazon

and 1 set of these card display cases that fit the decks just right!

and just a simple small fishing box!

I'm using the deck boxes (now empty) as placeholders till i get some foam to keep everything from sliding around! I have 2 of the expansions but have plenty of room to fit even more!

u/Tudius · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I have this one only.

If the bottle has a good seal, standing upright shouldn't be an issue.
The one I linked will def not hold all that juice you got though. Plano box works great for me.

u/dougstoner · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

It's fine. I bought this one on amazon from a link someone else posted a while back. Works great, and holds all my stuff. Plus, it's only 15 bucks!

u/dr_wdc · 1 pointr/Westfly

Here's the rod:

Uxcell a11081700ux0041 Traveling 9 Sections Telescopic Pole Fishing Fisherman Tool Rod 2.5M Orange

It comes from Asia, and not on prime shipping, so it can take a while...

And I paired it with this line, works great! Can overhead or roll cast with ease:

Moonlit Fly Fishing Bushi Furled Tenkara Line (All-Around line) Quality Made in USA (Neon Green, 9ft)

u/Maizrim · 1 pointr/AttackWing

I have this Plano case from Amazon and it still has room up top for a few more ships - it has at least one of every ship inside the four trays, which are behind that door on the front.

I use the top compartment for two short card boxes and to store my Tactical Cube, templates, Fina Prime (she's a big one) and Resources.

The only issue is the current price of $45 - I got it about 8 months ago when it was $35, so I'd add it to your cart and keep an eye on the price if you're interested.

EDIT: I also keep my dice and extra shield/disable tokens in the compartment up top near the handle, which comes in handy when I need to grab some during a game.

u/Ottergame · 6 pointsr/boardgames

I kept everything in the box, and it closes perfectly.

I stack the boards like this. I keep the player tokens in separate bags, along with the ore and rubies.

All the cardboard bits go into a single Plano 2-3600-01 Stowaway.

All the wooden bits go into a single Plano 2-3601-00 Thin Stowaway.

It all stacks into the box just fine.

Nothing jostles, the manuals fit right on top. The lid closes tight. Everything is tight, so there's no danger of stuff shaking and breaking.

Here is a purchase link for the 3600.

Here is a link to the 3601.

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/Fishing

Box at home, bag for the road. I just got this and it's been working out well. Nice waterproof zippered pocket for the cell, external clips for elastic loops for pliers/knife, and it fits three large plano boxes (very) snugly. Hard bottom is a nice touch, and the price is right. Only problem is I've had it for two weeks and already two of the nylon loops attached to the zippers have come off. Other than that, all good.

u/lerah72509 · 1 pointr/Stretched

I've been using these tackle boxes to hold my 1'' collection. I have a few of them to organize by plug type. They're cheap, size is great for inch plugs and can hold a lot of plugs. The dividers can be moved around to have each pair in their own spot. They're available at Wal-Mart as well so its convenient to get if you want them now instead of ordering.

u/snakehawk37 · 1 pointr/boardgames

Thanks for the suggestion.

Amazon has the Plano boxes here as a 4-pack for anyone interested. My tool cabinet could use some organizing too...

u/legendofthesamurai · 4 pointsr/lockpicking

Plano boxes are wonderful. I currently have 31 smaller locks in one of these (mortise + KIK cylinders and smaller padlocks), and 33 larger locks in one of these (full-size padlocks and cam locks). The storage density is very high, and the boxes have held up quite well and are cheap to replace if they break. I have another deep plano box that holds most of my tools and equipment, and one drawer to hold overflow/oversize items.

As for labeling locks, I generally only label things that are part of a series. For instance, I have seven American Lock 5200s that I use for practice, and each one has a small piece of masking tape on the top of the lock with a number written on it. The associated keys are all on a ring, and each one has a piece of tape on the bow with the matching number. During practice I won't look at the number, so I don't know which lock I'm working on if I grab it at random.

For special locks (borrowed, challenge locks, etc.) I'll use metal-rim paper tags to note important information, but I currently have very few locks that meet this criteria and don't use them often.

u/38spcAR · 3 pointsr/guns

Also, buy something like this and some labels. You'll be thankful when you have jags and brushes for multiple calibers.

u/redbaron1054 · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

Amazon here! Best part is it comes with x4 Plano 3700 + dividers at a very reasonable price.

u/JusCantST0PMe · 1 pointr/Darts

After seeing the other post with storage boxes I checked Amazon and I believe I found the same container. It's the Plano Tackle Box and I ordered one for myself already. Looks like a good deal to me.

u/Bmandoh · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

This will more than fit your collection. You can fit both large ships ( tantive and transport) up top and a full fleet in each tray.

u/KCrobble · 2 pointsr/troutfishing

I backpack, so I never want to spend a lot on a rod. If you are OK buying at the lower end of things THESE Okumas work pretty well for me

u/onwiththeshow · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I have found THIS to be a perfect solution.

u/alrobertson314 · 4 pointsr/troutfishing

I'm headed out for a two week bike tour through southern Wisconsin and plan on hitting a few creeks, rivers, and ponds along the way. From the DNR site it looks like mostly Brown, Brook, and Rainbow are in these areas.

u/icepyrox · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

So I own this one. It comes with 3 3700 trays like the 1374 uses and 2 3600 trays that the 1363 (the size in between your linked ones) uses. The 1354 uses 3500 trays and I looked at getting one of those trays for token storage to toss in the top because after trying out the 3600 trays, I couldn't imagine the 3500 series being worth anything more than that. The 3600 snugly fit x-wings, and actually I use one for dial/base/pegs/boards for individual ships. There is an appreciable difference between the 3600 trays and 3700 trays (which nicely fit all the ships) and if that type of difference holds to the 3500 (which looking at the ones in the store suggests they do), I can't imagine the 3500 (and therefore the 1354 box that uses them) holding ships well at all and possibly not even any large ships.

tl;dr- It's half price because you are shrinking the tray compartments down in all 3 dimensions, not just fewer compartments, but smaller ones that I would not recommend trying blindly.

u/funbob · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

I was going to recommend the Jackite 31ft fiberglass pole. Oddly enough though, I no longer see their standard black model listed on Amazon or their website. Very strange, because they were quite popular with hams. There are green and orange colors still listed on their site though.

If 20ft will get the job done, this is a good option, and a quarter of the price.

u/sienalock · 2 pointsr/flyfishing

Tenkara is a great way to introduce kids to fly fishing. Very simple, and once they get the cast down, they can focus on learning the basics of nymphing as well as dead drifting and reading streams. These will all transfer well if they decide to move to traditional fly fishing.

TenkaraBum has an excellent kit that includes everything you'll need to get started. The rod is really nice, and is my go to for small streams/blue lines. It is a bit pricey though.

If you're looking to go cheap first, just to test the waters, amazon has some cheap rods that should certainly work fine. You'll just have to buy some level line and tippet to complete the kit.

Both of these rods will be just fine for trout and panfish, but probably are not suitable for SMB.

u/my_kimchi_is_spoiled · 1 pointr/amateurradio

Fiberglass telecoping pole + two wires meeting at a feedpoint insulator. This will allow you to configure an antenna as a dipole for US stations or a vertical with a single elevated radial for DX.

If you want a solution on the cheap look at one of these:

The 20ft fishing pole is rigid enough to hold a very lightweight wire dipole at about 15ft.

My favorite portable antenna is the single radial vertical though. A vertical with a single elevated radial will perform like a dipole at high radiation angles (regional propagation) and be nearly omnidirectional. In the direction of the single radial it performs like a vertical with 120 buried radials and will allow excellent DX reception too.

If you go with 20ft pole this would allow a vertical element ~17ft and a 17ft radial elevated 3 feet above the ground at the feedpoint. Then you can stake the pole into the ground and extend the radial at an angle towards the ground. The radial would be mounted with a light insulator (like a plastic tube from a pen) at the end of the radial with a rope leader that gets staked into the ground. For the feedpoint, mount the wires to a chassis box female BNC or SO-239 connector. Then you just need ~10ft of RG58.

u/fainting-goat · 2 pointsr/maille

For storage, I use sets of fishing tackle boxes - the Plano ones are usually set up with individual trays with separable compartments, letting her set it up how she wants for rings she keeps a lot/little of.

Something like this works really well for storing a working set of rings, and then you can store tools and stuff in the top.

u/ScaryCookieMonster · 5 pointsr/XWingTMG

I have this stupid monstrosity (Plano 1374) for my whole collection. One tray per faction, and can fit all my small ships, dials, cardboard ship tokens, plus both YT's, a Decimator and Shuttle, a Hound's Tooth, two Firesprays, and three Jumpmasters in three of the four trays (organized by faction). Maneuver templates, bases and pegs, bombs, and other non-faction stuff goes in the fourth.

Ghost goes in the top bin, of course. Nothing even remotely reasonable holds that business.

If I only need to take one squadron with me, like for a tournament, I can pack it all in a "Stanley Fatmax FMST14820 FatMax Deep Pro Organizer".

Edit: oh, repainted. Yeah, my suggestion has them rattling around a touch in the tournament box. I'm thinking simple bubble wrap bags, combined with generous dullcoat as a last painting step, for once I finish some repaints.

u/tarheellogan · 1 pointr/bassfishing

[Backlit LCD Display] Dr.meter...

This is the scale I got. Really cheap and works. It doesn’t have the latest hook if you’re just weighing under the gills. There’s definitely better options though.

u/blu3shirt · 2 pointsr/dicemasters

I used a tackle box... Purchased at Walmart for about $6-$7 and extra separators I found at gander mountain for $1.99 a pack (needed two packs. Works pretty well!

Flambeau Outdoors 5007 Tuff Tainer

u/synthetix808 · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

If you plan to collect most/every ship from all 3 factions and multiples of each, one of the more popular choices is Plano 1374. Its versatile, you'll grow into it, and fairly inexpensive for what it offers.
I just recently retired one and now that I'm at 111 standard play ships (+ the 5 epics in their own case), I'm using this

u/NeatHedgehog · 1 pointr/AnimeFigures

I've been using these Plano containers

They sell the single trays individually, too, but I like to get the whole box and store repair / cleaning tools or extremely large accessories in the top compartment.

u/mkdir · 1 pointr/lego

FYI, these with adjustable dividers are better when you have a lot of a particular category:

u/mkell43 · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I use the Plano 732. It holds all of my mod/atomizer/etc. stuff as well as all (most of) my DIY stuff. It's basically just a holder for a bunch of compartmentalized plastic boxes.

It's pretty f-ing big though.

u/ShinakoX2 · 1 pointr/boardgames

Here's a plug for my storage solution:

It has storage for ship parts, game bits, and player pieces, along with links to the items I purchased.

tl;dr - if you want to just fit the ship parts and game bits from the base game into a single box, check out the Plano 3620

u/dschultzie · 1 pointr/Goruck

I always carry a dry bag stuff sack inside even on sunny days just in case. Won't keep the outside dry but your clothes will stuff will stay dry. They take up little room and can even handle being submerged. I use a waterproof case for my phone, wallet and car keys. This Plano one is much better than a pelican, as they can and will leak, plus it's only $5 on Amazon.

u/Tyrren · 7 pointsr/maille

You might consider a tackle box of some kind.

For example, this one is pretty sizeable (16.5 x 12 x 16 inches ; 6 pounds), and has a ton of compartments.

I don't know how well it would work with large quantities of rings, but it can certainly hold a sizeable variety of rings.

u/TheLatexCondor · 2 pointsr/flyfishing

I bought this combo from Wild Water for my beginner setup, and it did the job. I learned how to cast and caught quite a few fish. I've since upgraded, but I keep it around as a backup.

It may not have the backbone for throwing big bass flies, but I think they offer a 7/8 wt starter combo as well. For $94 it served me pretty well. The fly line is decent. The reel isn't great, but that's the least important part for a new fly fisher anyway. It holds line and has a functioning drag, and you don't need much more than that.

u/Gamer_2k4 · 2 pointsr/swdestiny

Very cool. I find the Flambeau 5007 Tuff Tainer to be a great, compact way to store dice, but I can't deny the appeal of this. Good find.

u/114121019 · 1 pointr/chess

Thanks! I think I found that exact model on amazon:

EDIT: actually the compartment slots are different

u/Kriterian · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

One more thing is to get a good storage system with room to grow. Yes you can find some cheap containers to hold a few ships and tokens, but once your collection grows you'll be lugging around 5 or 6 containers.

Plano tackle boxes aren't too expensive and hold everything with room for more. I started out big with the 1374 and still have room after getting all the ships with duplicates.

EDIT: Maybe wait for it to go on sale or shop around. It was only $32 on Amazon when I ordered mine a few months ago.

u/shiki88 · 1 pointr/MarvelDiceMasters

General tips:

That 3.99 box I bought won't fit the cards without modification and there will be some dice mismatch in compartments. I have a deckbox for the cards, anyway.

But certainly the red Plano box would fit a large collection. It's overkill in my opinion.

u/5uper5kunk · 2 pointsr/Fishing_Gear

Plano Tackle 4 Pack of Size 3600 Stowaways with Adjustable Dividers, 4 Pack, Fishing Tackle Storage, Premium Tackle Storage

It’s actually not a terrible price, I’ve seen them go for $20 and I think the lowest I’ve ever paid is $16ish.

There are a couple different styles of them in terms of how the insides are laid out, Plano’s website is really the best place to figure out what the different model number designations mean.

u/TheWarmestWood · 1 pointr/Fishing

Dude I got a Daiwa travel rod--microlight that fits in a real small case. I routinely take it with me to school and keep it under the seat of my car. It has a little built in tackle box for a few lures and with a little creativity, you can easily make more tackle room within the case. Only about 40 bucks.

u/EDMorel · 1 pointr/Ultralight

I don't carry a rod with me but this has been pretty well-reviewed: Daiwa Mini System Minispin Ultralight Spinning Reel and Rod Combo in Hard Carry Case

u/floridafayboy · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

[–]Floridarainmaker [score hidden] 3 minutes ago

This is apparently a second account maybe Imgur created for me?dunno.

How do I edit my original post?
Common questions: Acrylic paint. Plano tackle box. Here is an early pic of all of it.

u/uint128_t · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I use a whole lot of plastic organizers kinda like this of varying sizes for small parts.

Larger quantities of parts sit around in the shipping material they came in, and tools live in 3 or 4 toolboxes.

Works quite well for me and is mostly compact.

u/frosty1 · 2 pointsr/diytubes

What storage containers do you use (or have you used) for your various bits and baubles?

u/theJa-Raff · 3 pointsr/bodymods

I use an insert that goes into a tackle box. Walmart carries them in the fishing section and they’re pretty cheap.

Plano 23620-01 Stowaway with Adjustable Dividers

u/corvinious · 6 pointsr/XWingTMG

Depending on your collection this fits everything and I have one of every ship minus a few epics.

Im also making the jump to dial covers and am using a dowel rod with a stopper to hold the dials from each faction. Was inspired by a buddy of mines.

u/Swims_ · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

I usually just use those Plano storage containers with the dividers. I think the last few I bought were from Walmart by the fishing stuff. They're usually pretty cheap and come varying sizes with dividers. Something similar to this.

u/eNonsense · 3 pointsr/boardgames

I use a Plano 3620 box for Castles of Burgundy which works really nicely. I have the mixed tiles in their own compartments and draw from them randomly without looking at what I'm drawing. It's faster & less fiddly than having a bunch of bags.

Here's a photo. I think since this was taken I spread things out even more to fill all the compartments, so there's more space to mix things up and get your fingers in.

u/Tervlon · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

I know you said no tackle boxes, but with a collection that size I don't think you'll be able to find anything that can accommodate all of it at once. If I were you I'd get a big Plano case with multiple racks for each faction and arrange the individual rack cases with some of each ship so that you don't have to take everything all the time. You could have a case of tokens in each stack so that everything is playable if you just take the Imperial case to play or whatnot. You just have too much!

I use one of these at the moment, maybe getting 2 or 3 of them would work out for you?

Impossible. But you have quite a bit.

u/luvstusplug · 2 pointsr/engineering

Not sure the quantities you have but if just a few of each a big tackle box like this is nice:

Plano 23600-01 Stowaway with Adjustable Dividers

u/Rebel-sith · 1 pointr/flygear

I found this one is it a good quality or not nah?

u/NinjaDano · 2 pointsr/StarWarsArmada

I just recently got into the game myself and someone posted the Plano 732 Angled Tackle Box as a storage solution.

I have one of everything that's out right now (1 x ISD, 2 x VSDs, 1 x GSD, 1 x Raider, 1 x MC80, 1 x AF MII, 1 x MC30c, 2 x Neb-Bs, 2 x CR90s, 1 x Reb Sqdns, 1 x Imp Sqdns, 1 x Rogues & Villains, + extra dice).

All of it fits in that case with plenty of room to spare. I currently put the rulebooks, maneuver tool, range stick, ISD and VSDs in the flip top compartment. I put the AF Mk II and the GSD in the top left side bubble compartments (but as I expand into more AF MIIs, I'll just put those up there and the GSDs will go in with the others 'SDs). Home One/MC80 fits on the top right side bubble compartment. All the rest fits in the three main modular boxes in the center. My son and I use the two smaller modular compartments to store Empire and Rebel specific markers, cards, and whatever our current fleet set up is in those.

I'll post pictures of the set up when I get a chance so you can see examples.

... $40 at Wal-Mart.

u/Independent · 3 pointsr/Fishing

Yeah, just get however many Plano Pro Latch Stowaways you need and stick em in a backpack/bookbag/rucksack/waistcase etc. Do get the ProLatch or better. Some of the lesser ones aren't as dependable. I like to keep an empty stowaway so I can just pick out tackle for the day and only carry that much with me.

u/ProphetOfWhy · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

Sorry, I was thinking of a different box. I was thinking of this.

This is what I use, and I love it. You can get it for $40 at Wal-Mart. I'm actually going to be posting my storage setup tonight. I don't know if it actually gets you too much more space than what you have though. The one other piece of advice I do have is to not be afraid to cut some plastic.

u/xelf · 24 pointsr/Gloomhaven

I strongly reccomend:

  1. for the maps: an Expanding File Folder
  2. for all the pieces: a couple storage boxes I found 2 of these at goodwill for a couple bucks, but they're $3.19 at amazon, so hardly breaking the bank either.
  3. Gloomhaven Helper <--- this will save you so much time in setup, it replaces all of the monster decks with 1 simple tool, for web/pc/android
u/IAmOptimuskline · 1 pointr/Fishing_Gear

Lightweight Okuma never did me wrong. Great little rod and affordable.

If you wanna spend $20 more you can reach for the Tica Ultra-Light Weight. I've had both and no complaints.

u/linkandluke · 2 pointsr/boardgames

> 3650N

That Plano is 30$ on amazon but it fits so much better than mine!

This is mine. I may cut away some of the non-removable dividers to get more space for zombies and survivors like you have!

Also paging /u/xtcz

u/akbal7 · 2 pointsr/camping

My buddy had this on our last camping trip. Would recommend for streams, small water, light duty.

u/feh1325 · 3 pointsr/boardgames

I'd also recommend a Plano 3600 box, it fits all the pieces perfectly

u/sylpher250 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Get a tackle box (or 2) like this, so it's easier to store the small, unassembled pieces during sessions.

u/melance · 1 pointr/DnD

For my travel dice, I make (and sell) chainmaille dice bags. For my full collection, I use one like this.

u/Crazy_Gweilo · 2 pointsr/XWingTMG

It looks like the same as mine which is this one

u/velvetreligion · 1 pointr/lego

i use tackle boxes like This

u/coldsolderjoint · 2 pointsr/cigars

Plano 3400 waterproof case

$5 at Walmart in the fishing section. Can fit up to about (3) 6x60's and a boveda. I had about 6 smaller cigars in it