Reddit mentions: The best fishing tools & accessories

We found 179 Reddit comments discussing the best fishing tools & accessories. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 121 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

9. Dr. Slick Spring Creek Clamp, 5", Black, Straight

    Features:
  • Top Quality Dr. Slick
  • Straight Clamp
  • Pin-In Shank
  • Spring Creek Needle Nose
  • Black Finish
Dr. Slick Spring Creek Clamp, 5", Black, Straight
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height1 Inches
Length13 Inches
Number of items1
SizeStraight
Weight0.05 Pounds
Width10 Inches
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18. Berkley Hemostat Pliers (6")

Comfort nonslip gripsDurable constructionCorrosion resistant stainless steelIdeal for removing hooks or tying flies
Berkley Hemostat Pliers (6")
Specs:
ColorRed
Height1 Inches
Length1 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateOctober 2011
Size6"
Weight0.01 Pounds
Width1 Inches
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20. Eagle Claw Pistol Grip Hook Remover, 9-1/2", Polished Finish, Non-Clip Ergonomic Grip, Serrated

    Features:
  • LAZER READY RIG-18" WITH1-1/2OZ EGG SINKER
Eagle Claw Pistol Grip Hook Remover, 9-1/2", Polished Finish, Non-Clip Ergonomic Grip, Serrated
Specs:
Colorbrown
Height1 Inches
Length1 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateMarch 2012
SizeOne Size
Weight0.2 Pounds
Width1 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on fishing tools & accessories

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where fishing tools & accessories are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 24
Number of comments: 2
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Total score: 3
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Top Reddit comments about Fishing Tools & Accessories:

u/riggerjeff · 3 pointsr/paracord

My cord craft kit

Detail of select tools

DIY Fid, Finished paracord end, Kleen-Kut Paracord scissors & buoy wrap scissor cover

I've accumulated quite a few tools in my years as a knotter/rigger but you really don't need very much to get started in the hobby. When I first started tying, my most commonly used tool was the Dr. Slick Spring Creek Clamp, 5", Black, Straight. You'll find many less expensive "hemostats" on Amazon, this just happens to be the one I picked up at an outdoor outlet many years back. It served as a fid, a "pusher" and a puller. I don't use them for tying much any more, I "thread" with a fid more than I pull through these days, but I do use them for finishing the ends of paracord — see below.

As I said, I now use "fids" or lacing needles regularly. My first fids were homemade — machined by spinning an aluminum Chicago screw in a drill press and shaping it with a file. I progressed to using a pair of the Tandy Leather Long Jumbo Perma-Lok Needle 1193-05 that I'd modified by shortening and shaping the tips to be more needle like. I wouldn't bother these days because purpose made fids are readily available: 3 1/2" Stainless Steel 550 Paracord Fid, Lacing, Stitching Needle. I have fids and Perma-Lok needles in a variety of sizes to accommodate different cords — I don't use 550 exclusively.

Though not completely necessary I do find the Knotters Tool II (Stainless Steel) w/ 3 Different Size Stainless Steel Lacing Needles by Jig Pro Shop to be handy and it includes three fids. An aluminum version is available too, but I'm never one to shy away from investing in a tool that will last. I also use a 4 3/4" Paracord Tucking Tool (Stainless Steel) for tucking and smoothing. You can probably find a similar tool at the local pharmacy, and maybe even at a dollar store.

The best cutting tool I've found for paracord are the Kleen-Kut scissors sold by Paracordist.com. Unfortunately, the store is currently down so I can't supply a link. You can use good quality flush-cutters, bandage scissors or a good, sharp pair of "Fiskars" (or similar scissors) and they will all work. However, I tried everything I could to avoid buying the "special" scissors and, in the end, wish I'd just done it sooner.

My technique for finishing the ends of paracord: Clamp the end of the cord at a 45 degree angle with the hemostats. Cut the cord flush with edge of the clamp. Run a lighter along the edge of the cord to seal. While the cord is still warm, remove the clamp and, if necessary, re-clamp to the very end to squeeze and seal the end. Tuck the end back into the workpiece. If the end is going to be exposed I will sometimes remove a small length of the core first, then trim and seal just the jacket for a flatter, neater finish.

I do sometimes use a hot knife for finish work. Most often the Weller P2KC Professional Self-igniting Cordless Butane Soldering Iron. If I'm at my bench I do have an Engel Heat Cutter HSGM Hot Knife w/ Type R Blade available (used for "big rope" and purchased when I was rigging boats professionally) but it's total overkill for paracord work. I am intrigued by the Hand Held Electric Hot Knife Rope Cutter Set - 100 Watt, Cutting Blade (HHHK-HS18. The tool is probably not as durable as the Engel, but if one isn't using it all day, every day it's likely suitable. One Advantage of these "rope guns" is that they heat up almost instantly but, truthfully, the Weller doesn't take very long to come up to temperature and it's much more portable. Whichever you choose, it’s easy to mar your piece with the hot knife so I generally use the hemostats as a shield. (And again, I'm more often just using the lighter/hemostats for paracord work.)

I also keep a needle case with sail-makers needles and whipping twine (wrapped around the needle case) handy for stitching and whipping. (In a pinch, a single strand of 550 core makes a decent twine, particularly if you pass it along a block of wax.)

I want to emphasize that you don't need all of these tools, you might not really need any of them, but I do find that assembling a good kit and having the right tool available can help overcome tricky problems. I'd say that the Knotter's tool (admittedly, my attachment to this tool may be due to my love for marlin spikes in general) with it's fids—or barring that, just a set of fids—the hemostats, a good pair of scissors and a lighter would make a decent field kit. Add the rest of the stuff to your knotting bench over time. Or not.

I'll also say that there was a certain satisfaction to making and improvising my tools in the early days but now that there are so many quality purpose made tools available via Amazon I don't find it's worth my time any more. (I have a wooden bracelet/collar jig that I made but I recently acquired the aluminum jig from Acid Tactical and I think it's just brilliant and even assigning a lower value to my time than I normally would, much cheaper to buy than build.) I do have a plan to machine a set of Delrin fids and pushers for low-profile air travel "one of these days"

Hope this helps.

u/pombe · 2 pointsr/flytying

Recycling an old comment:

This is the materials kit I started with in the spring. Great quality materials. Full spools of thread and wire, "kit packs" of some things which are basically half a retail pack. You'll run out of hooks far before you run out of anything else. Booklet has patterns for some classic flies to get you familiar with the basics. https://www.amazon.com/Hareline-Fly-Tying-Material-Kit/dp/B01MG1K933.

I also purchased a Hareline tools and vice kit which was pretty decent, but I did replace the vice after a few months. Still use all the other tools though. Make sure you get the deluxe kit which has a "hair stacker". Any fly that uses elk or deer hair looks a lot better if you align the tips.

For patterns I've been going to the Orvis website. Huge variety and beautifully shot videos. Using the materials kit as a base I pick up a few new materials every couple weeks and learn to tie new patterns. https://howtoflyfish.orvis.com/fly-tying-videos. There are some great books out there as well. But I find following these videos much easier. The presenter is really good for showing you how to measure things to keep the proportions correct.

Good luck!

u/unconscionable · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

Most decent quality fillet knives in the $20 range will probably last your whole life if you don't ruin the blade by using them to cut things you shouldn't be cutting. The general rule applies here that you're better off with a $20 knife that fits well in your hand than a $200 knife that doesn't.

My dad has some fillet knives of that $20-or-so quality that must be 30yrs old or more that have not seen much abuse, and they're still holding in there just fine.

Keep it sharp. The sharpeners they come with waste a lot of metal rather than honing it, but my philosophy is that the hand held sharpeners do a great job of getting a blade sharp quickly and easily, so who cares. One of my dad's oldest ones has noticeably lost some metal over the years, but when an excellent blade costs a measly $20 it's hard to justify spending hours of your life honing it.

Fortunately, imho, medium quality $20 fillet knives are very excellent blades, and there's no compelling reason to spend much more than that unless you really want something specific.

That said, I recently picked up two of these, because I personally like how the contured Rapala handles fit in my hand. These even come with a case (filet knives need to be kept in a case) and sharpener (filet knives need to be kept exceptionally sharp if you value your fingers). I keep one in the kitchen, and one in my tackle box.

u/Vaquero_Pescador · 3 pointsr/Tenkara

If your main requirement is lightweight, Tenkara is indeed your best option. However, it may not be the best option for the water and fish you might encounter. For instance if you think you'll be hitting lakes and ponds for bass, a collapsible/telescoping spinning rod and reel might be the better choice. Though if you expect to be fishing rivers and streams for smaller species in close quarters, well you've come to the right place.

Rod length is also a choice based on the type of water you'll be fishing. If you've got wide open spaces or expect to be some distance away from a fish holding feature (maybe you intend to fish from shore), then longer is generally better and 12 foot might be your minimum. And if you intend to be in a tight stream with a lot of overhanging branches, you should be looking at shorter options. 2 additional things to consider - a long rod can be difficult to handle for a shorter person, and for backpacking the collapsed length of your setup is an important consideration.

The shortest tenkara rod I have (and maybe the shortest available, not sure) is an 8' Wetfly Kodomo Creek (excellent deal right now @ $70 with a hard case, line, tippet and flies). This is probably the rod I use most because the river I'm on is essentially a tunnel of branches. There are also "zoom" Tenkara rods which typically have 2 usable lengths for different fishing situations. I have a Badger Bad Axe which might be right up your alley - it fishes at 9'10" or 11'6" and is my choice on new water.

Goture isn't the worst you could do, but personally I would consider it to be at the bottom end of an entry level rod. It'll be heavier and less sensitive then most other options. Still, for a new fisherman who might be worried about damaging an expensive set-up on a hiking trip it's not a bad choice.

You're pretty close on what a full setup consists of. The line is usually 2 lines - a "leader" which is a heavier section attached directly to the rod/lillian roughly the length of the rod or slightly longer, and a shorter section (2' is probably average) of lighter weight material called "tippet" that is attached to the leader and then your fly. People generally use fluorocarbon for tippet because it's nearly invisible underwater and it sinks. There are many different options for leader material, but to keep things as simple as possible I would be looking at a level line leader which is usually a colored piece of fluorocarbon making it easy to see your fly drift. Both the leader and tippet have unique sizing designations that I won't get into right now, but if you make a rod choice I'd be happy to help.

2 other things you will probably want is a spool or 2 of some sort to store your leader/tippet set-up(s), and a protective tube for your rod while backpacking. The spools can be very simple and are designed with a hole in the middle to fit over the collapsed rod. This one is a bit more expensive but is a really nice bit of kit to easily keep lines from unraveling and storing a small amount of flies. Trouble with a spool and backpacking is that you will probably want a protective tube for your rod and the spool won't fit in the tube. If that's the case, you might want to look at a line keeper like this or this. The second option is better for smaller rods because you can use different sized o-rings to keep it snug.

So that was a lot more words then I was expecting to type out, especially since Tenkara is all about simplicity, but I hope it helps. Really jealous of a month long backpacking/fishing trip. Enjoy!

u/mcwap · 2 pointsr/flytying

Someone with more experience might suggest otherwise... but the easiest thing to do, in my opinion, is get a beginner set that has starting material and instructions.

On top of that I'd get the Orvis Fly-Tying Guide. That book will do a good job of explaining the basics "Barney-style."

There might be free (or cheap) classes in your area from a local fly fishing/tying club or from an outdoors shop. They will gladly help. I started tying with my dad a few years ago and loved it. After a few weeks I went into my local Orvis and asked for recommendations- they told me which tools I should upgrade (ceramic bobbin for example) and told me which materials will come in handy down the line.

Side tip- if you start getting into the hobby and want materials, you can always look online for cheap alternatives. Why pay $10 for a small amount of foam from Orvis when you can go to a craft store and get twice as much for $3?

u/TOUCHER_OF_SHEEP · 2 pointsr/knives

SRM 710 is officially seconded. For a bit more money (link is $100), MCusta makes some nice looking knives. That's VG-10 and a beauty, my friend. The Kershaw Leek could work as well. The CRKT Drifter is very similar to the SRM 710, but a bit faster and easier to obtain. Higo no Kami knives are potentially pretentious, but beautiful. My final recommendation, the Spyderco Centofante 3 is a great choice for slightly over $50 ($52 on Amazon, right now) and also uses VG-10 but for less, though the Spyderhole isn't appealing to everyone.

For more expensive options (I have multiple on my Amazon wishlist alone), just ask, though since they all break your price limit and I've already done that twice I'll wait for further questioning first.

u/Escaridole · 12 pointsr/bonehurtingjuice

Friends, allow me to take a moment away from our shared love of bone-shattering meme content to address an important subject. As an air engineer with the government air board, I see first-hand the daily toll that smoking takes on our air, and in our communities. This includes not only smoke from traditional tobacco cigarettes but also other recreational inhalants such as marijuana, hookah tobacco, the so-called "vapor" from electronic smoking devices, and certain images of a Larus gull.

You may be surprised to learn that, according to the World Health Organization, inhalation of these various forms of "Smoke Juice" is the number one cause of juice-related cancers throughout the United States and Europe, ahead of both free base cocaine (colloquially known as "powder that makes you smoke it") and second-hand exposures to the hundreds of thousands of smoldering cigarettes dropped to the sidewalk by accompanied men while turning their heads to observe the passage of other women. In fact, of all known carcinogens, only superficially ironic hints at asking for votes are considered more toxic under new community-level risk assessment guidelines.

Most of us have been affected by smoking, or know someone who has. Just remember the old saying: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. That's why I suggest each of us take action today by purchasing Dr. Slick Hat Keeper, the quality accessory with powerful alligator clips to keep your hat from blowing away in windy conditions. In fact, Dr. Slick Hat Keeper makes a great gift for a parent, a girlfriend, or the entire population of the Gulf Coast of United States and Mexico. As an air engineer with the government air board, I can't think of a better way to kill smoking—before it kills you.

u/KCrobble · 1 pointr/Tenkara

To be fair, I mentioned it.

Here are the other things you will want/need:

  • FLOUROCARBON LEVEL LINE (3.0 for Tenkara, 3.5 for Keiryu-X)
  • FLOUROCARBON TIPPET (6 or 7 for Tenkara, 5 for Keiryu-X)
  • A line winder, I recommend THESE CLIP ON ONES
  • Fly box, altoids tin or something
  • Flies. These don't need to be japanese kebari. Western flies work very well. What you want depends on where you are fishing and the size and species of what you are fishing for. Happy to make recommendations if you specify.

    I live in the SF Bay Area. If you are near, I can help you try a few rods out to see what you like. I also tie flies and would be happy to donate a starter set.
u/soylentbomb · 3 pointsr/knives

I carry this, and recommend it to friends for EDC. It's very comfortable to me, usually has the right amount of tension on the blade for my tastes (stays closed, opens easily without the hinge feeling flimsy), and the design lends itself well to the clueless figuring out how a liner lock works. The serrations work well for me (good size, not too many or few), and it's easy for me to keep the blade in good shape.

The multitool packaged with it is a handy complement to a 'regular' multitool (pliers and whatnot) as a faster scissors/can opener/bottle opener/large screwdrivers.

It also has one HUGE non-obvious advantage - being a matched set, it helps reinforce the idea to a lot of people that you're carrying TOOLS, of which the knife is one (versus tools and a scary knife).

u/MongoBongoTown · 1 pointr/flyfishing

Depending on what you're looking for...there are tons of options.

Friend of mine just got into tying an purchased this vice on Amazon...

Griffin Odyssey Spider Fly Tying Vise
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002O069O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a-FkDbM8RQD1P

This is their entry level model and it took us a minute to set it up the right way, but as a tying tool with rotary feature...its been nice.

There are cheap(ish) options...but something by Griffin, Peak or any other of the low/mid-range manufacturers should be good for intermediate tyers for many years.

Now...if you're just getting your feet wet and seeing if you like it? Maybe a $25 vice to start and then you can look at something more substantial once you know what you like, a Regal or Renzetti, etc.

u/Lucan · 2 pointsr/climbing

Here's what I do:

    1. Wear pants/shorts with a belt under your harness.
    1. Use something like this or this
    1. and this from the camera to a gear loop
    1. Throw a UV filter on your kit lens. Then you can skip a lens cap and be able to shoot one handed without worrying about destroying your expensive prime in a whipper.

      Try and lead. The best pictures will be from the top shooting down. You'll also have a better understanding of the route for safe picture taking moments and impressive moves. If you have enough people, you can also try to get to the side of a route (tie yourself off) for some cool shots.
u/Addy711 · 1 pointr/simracing

My CSL Elite throttle also started getting jittery/spikey after a year of use. I got some some DeoxIT D5 and that completely fixed it. Also picked up some ‘reel butter’ for the gears, seems like a good safe lubricant for plastic and was pretty cheap.

A touch-less sensor would be ideal but the potentiometer should be better shrouded or sealed. It's fairly exposed but at least it's easy access to service.

With loadcell I prefer them over the t3pa pros as well

u/thaweatherman · 11 pointsr/flyfishing

Redington Crosswater combo ($132 with Prime)

If he likes smallmouth and catches them in his favorite creeks then get the 6wt. If he prefers trout then get the 9' 5wt option. This rod in a 6wt will also work for pond/lake fishing for bass. If he went to a bigger river then he would do fine with it as well, whether wading or in a boat.

He will also need a leader and some tippet. For $8.61 you can get him an individual leader, or for $16 you can get him the three pack. For tippet, if you get him the 8 pound leader then you should get him the 8 pound tippet for $7.57.

For leader longevity he will want tippet rings for $11.72. This will allow him to use his leaders for much longer rather than needing to re-buy leaders sooner. I know we're outside of your budget at this point past the leader, but if you can swing it then all of these things will provide what he needs outside of flies. Maybe someone else is getting him presents and could supplement the rest. Sometimes fly rod combos will come with leaders, but I didn't see it mentioned on the Crosswater combo. You'll notice I tailored it more to bass. If you find out he's more of a trout guy, then read on.

For $10.78 you can get a 3-pack of 9' 4x leaders. He can fish small streamers and nymphs with these, but would want a thinner leader for dry flies. For creeks he will probably fish small streamers and nymphs most of the time anyways, so this is a good choice (in my opinion). You'll still want the tippet rings listed above to make the leader purchase last a long time. For tippet, a spool of 4x tippet material for $11.43. The tippet prices seem high to me so you might want to dig around some more for options.

Other doodads to consider would be nippers and a zinger, hemostats, and a net. Teeth are a substitute for nippers, but biting through fishing line does wear your teeth. Hemostats aren't as necessary if he pinches the barbs on his hooks. You can get away with not using a net, but it is easier on the fish and the fisherman to use one.

Hopefully this helps and points you in the right direction. If you have questions just send me a message.

u/turbolax101 · 4 pointsr/flyfishing

As with most things fly fishing-related, it depends upon the speed and depth of the water you're fishing. But as a general rule, I fish an emerger pattern (like a Barr's Emerger) 12-18 inches behind my dry fly and am essentially using the dry fly as an indicator for my emerger. If I'm fishing something that is beaded like a pheasant tail or prince nymph, I've fished anywhere from 12 inches to 36 inches based on the speed / depth of the water and the size of the fly. Generally the deeper the water, the longer you'll want that tippet to be. Keep in mind too that you'll have to downsize your nymph based on the size of your dry fly. Something like a size 16 adams can really only support a size 20-22-24 beaded nymph and still maintain it's surface. Also make sure you use dry floatant on your dry fly (I'm a huge face of this stuff).

I don't recommend trying to fish both the dry AND the bottom of the water (unless the water is less than 3 feet deep), since to me you're just doing both a disservice. If I'm fishing a dry dropper, I'm usually targeting the surface and just under the surface (6-12 inches or so). Sounds like you're already an expert in fishing subsurface nymphing and getting it to the bottom.

Hope this helps. Tight lines!

u/BabylonDrifter · 1 pointr/Fishing

The most important part of hook removal is being confident and decisive. Being a greenhorn, you're obviously still developing those qualities. Pike are notoriously difficult to unhook - I often use a [jaw-spreader] (http://www.amazon.com/South-Bend-Fish-Mouth-Spreader/dp/B00GI9WB5E/ref=sr_1_80?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1409962385&sr=1-80) and/or a [lip-grabber] (http://www.amazon.com/Phileex-Portable-Grabber-Gripper-Stainless/dp/B00EY83KQ0/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1409962165&sr=1-1) to make the process easier. The other thing that really works well is a simple J-style [hook remover] (http://www.amazon.com/Ventafish-VFJCD16-J-Circle-Dehooker/dp/B004RDSXDC/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1409962482&sr=1-4. Once you learn how to use it, this simple tool allows you to remove even fairly deep hooks with a simple flip of the wrist. For really deep hooks, you need a longnose pliers, hemostat, or specialized [hook-removing tool] (http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Claw-Pistol-Grip-Remover/dp/B000ALE5EG/ref=sr_1_9?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1409962482&sr=1-9). Hope this helps, congrats on getting some good fish on your hooks!

u/Redlyr · 3 pointsr/Fishing

Off the top of my head, a good multitool like a Leatherman.

A scale with measuring tape. For making sure you are within a size limit or for bragging rights.

Bogagrip like grabber or Fish Gripper for handling fish.

Hemostat for extracting a deep hook.

A good hat, UV rated shirt, sunblock and mosquito/tick repellent. Maybe a backpack with water reservoir a la CamelBak. I also keep a small first aid kit and a hook removal kit just in case.

Dry bag if you are going to be on a boat or kayak. No one likes a water damaged phone.

Edit:

A folding net. Nothing is worse than having a good fish and losing because it too big to drag it up on the bank. I lost a good sized trout last week because I didn't have a net handy.

u/MaggieMae68 · 4 pointsr/cookingforbeginners

Don't buy a whole block of knives. You don't need them.

Pick the knives you need and buy only those and get the best ones you can afford. Also don't put them in a block as that dulls the blades faster. Get a magnetic strip holder.

Right now I have 2 main knives: an 8" chef's knife and a 4" paring knife. I do 90% of my cooking with those two knives.

Aside from those, I also have an inexpensive serrated bread knife (I believe it's a Chicago Cutlery one) and I have a super sharp fish/filleting knife that I've had for decades and it's perfect for removing silverskin and boning chickens or turkeys (https://www.amazon.com/Rapala-Fish-Fillet-Superflex-Knife/dp/B000PBWY1W)

u/Moose_Oscar · 1 pointr/Fishing

https://www.amazon.com/Rapala-Heavy-Electric-Fillet-Knife/dp/B00F5EK3CG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543603210&sr=8-3&keywords=electric+fillet+knife

Buy one of these and never look back. One of the best investments I've ever made. I fish freshwater and this thing zips through walleye like nothing. Mister Twister make a cheaper one, but this one is better on larger fish.

u/IrishNinjah · 2 pointsr/flytying

Thank you!

Trust me I get it. And it hurt to make the jump up in price but I can tell it was worth it. Being able to rotate the flies without unseating them is so nice.

And so far the UV Cure works really well. Especially for building baitfish heads it seems.


The vice I got is called a "Griffin Odyssey Spider Fly Tying Vise" and was $80.00 https://www.amazon.com/Griffin-Odyssey-Spider-Tying-Vise/dp/B0002O069O

u/Postal1979 · 1 pointr/bassfishing

I have a spot on my bag that I attached a s clip to, then have these

6pcs Pack Fishing Lanyards Boating Multicolor Fishing Ropes Secure Pliers Lip Grips Tackle Fish Tools(Color Ramdon) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D4NSCRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DlzACbGB1STAW

Attached to the s clip. Easy to find and take off to attach to myself when I get to a bank.

u/ChanceGall · 1 pointr/flytying

I bought this one when I first started around two years ago and I love it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002O069O?pc_redir=1396256609&robot_redir=1

u/REF_YOU_SUCK · 1 pointr/bassfishing

I have this scale with a pair of Rapala fish grippers. works like a charm.

u/Spongi · 2 pointsr/AskReddit

Well, I use this. About a 4" blade along with a sharpener for 90% of my cooking & eating needs.

I think it came with a fishing fillet kit that was like $5 at a sports store and it came with a little pocket sharpener like this.

Probably not what you were looking for, but it works. Been using this thing for about 4 or 5 years now.


u/ShaneDAWS0N · 348 pointsr/gifs

Too many bones?

Sounds like a job for the

Wunder Boner

Edit: Found it on Amazon:

Wunder Boner Fish De-Boning Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KP6HFS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_vSbbvb0K9NRDE

u/christosks · 4 pointsr/Ultralight

Honestly I'm still using the intro kit I bought when I decided to try a Tenkara rod set up, its stupid simple and just down right fun.

DRAGONtail Shadowfire 365 12' Tenkara Fly Fishing Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NFX7E4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qbsXCbW9PEQ1D

I added this also Clip-On Line Tenkara Winder/Line Keeper (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N3PY0H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ScsXCbPV33VZ4

It's a nearly self contained package.

u/datbeerdude · 2 pointsr/Fishing_Gear

I use the rapala electric filet knife. It cuts through panfish or any fish like butter. They have a lithium battery version for $75 as well. As a back up, just have a really sharp fillet knife.

https://www.amazon.com/Rapala-Heavy-Electric-Fillet-Knife/dp/B00F5EK3CG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519841296&sr=8-1&keywords=rapala+electric+fillet+knife

u/HeyStripesVideos · 2 pointsr/Fishing
u/nreyes238 · 9 pointsr/knives

I think that is this one: Rapala 7 1/2" Fish'n Fillet Knife / Single Stage Sharpener / Sheath https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NXC8A8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8eDByb25A7TVT

u/nomadicbohunk · 2 pointsr/Hunting

I cleaned deer in a dorm room.

Skin and quarter it out after you shoot it if legal. Do tele check if you can. Take the quarters and put them in your fridge to age for a week or so. Just take all the shelves out. This is what I still do.

Then just cut it up on the counter. If I could only have one knife for butchering a deer, it'd be this: https://www.amazon.com/Rapala-Fillet-Single-Sharpener-Sheath/dp/B001NXC8A8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509586531&sr=8-3&keywords=rapala+fillet+knife

That's a lot for that knife...I bet you can get it cheaper somewhere else. Or they've gone up in price a lot since I last bought one. We use those a lot to get the silver skin off.