Reddit mentions: The best fluid sealers

>Silicone: I see clear silicone used a lot. Any recommendations?

Get the RTV high temp - I use clear 100% Silicone from GE available at Wal-Mart and it fails after only a few uses, most auto stores will have the RTV high temp silicone.

$5.30 on Amazon! Gotta love Amazon Prime, very worth it for the small purchases that show up in 2 days.

>Jars: You are going to want a supply of Quart jars. Extra lids eventually too. Buy them anyplace.

I'd specify wide mouth for cakes, regular mouth for spawn. I use wide mouth exclusively, just as a personal preference. I can make cakes of any size, or spawn for that matter!

>Ty-vex: Get them from the post office for free.

Just a silly thing, 'Tyvek' as opposed to 'Tvvex'. It's this one when you go to the post office.

>Petri Dishes: (glass plastic?)

You'd think glass, but no. I can't justify the cost vs the amount of petri dishes I need to work with. I prefer the '4 section' petri dishes for expanding cultures or when receiving a new culture. That way you can quickly expand it if it's clean or isolate away from contaminants on the same dish, instead of using multiple. For presentation, I prefer the dishes that /u/SmellyTongues sends me from Cell Treat. Wow, they're beautiful! They stack very nicely, and seal much better than the cheap 4 section ones I've bought off of Amazon.

>Bags for Pressure cooker?

What? Are you referring to filtered patch bags for growing?

>masks, gloves

I'll be doing a write up soon about sterile operating procedure which I'll get shortened to SOP in context of this hobby, which should encompass the basics. Good, solid gloves are a must, you're working with seemingly dull jar lids, but they'll slice right through gloves. Get some good ones, or you'll end up owning several pairs with slices in them rendering them effectively useless IMO.

For masks, I've tried the free ones you get from the hospital and compared to the expensive painters dusk masks of the same build but much better quality. I used my electronic cigarette to take in a mouthful of vapor - covered my mouth snugly with each mask (one at a time) and exhaled. The results were easily apparent as the one I paid for only allowed a small amount of vapor out through my chin whereas the other was expelling vapor out the entire perimeter of the mask. I do have a gas mask, but I've not found a problem using my dust masks repeatedly over and over.

>anything else?

Might be able to include this in the dehydrator section, but 'Dririte'/'Damprid' or any similar product would be a good idea. Here's a link to amazon.

I personally use silica packets for storage, you could make your own with these or build a simple decanter using a bowl with a lid, a rack to elevate the fruits above the crystals in the bowl, and 24 hours.

Supposedly "over 1000 photographs on over 1000 pages". If it's their printing, it's gonna be a great presentation. He also corrected every detail he found that was inaccurate in the first printing.

I'd love another old 74 (even a generator Shovel would be fine) to build and go through. I'm conflicted though... I've planned on buying and building a late FXR ('89-94) into a hot rod, but after our discussions I'm wondering if I shouldn't put that money into another 74 (next year for all of this). The FXR will be more gratifying for wheelies and such and doing burnouts in front of my bitch mother in law's house, but a 74 would just be, well, a 74, with all the joy of wrenching and riding that brings with it. If you keep posting photos as you go through the program, it'll help me decide on the 74.

By the way, it is my opinion that Gasgacinch (gorilla snot) is the best stuff going for case halves. It also works wonderfully as a rubberizing coat for paper or asbestos gaskets when putting together older bikes with warped or dinged gasket surfaces. Get a can and add it to your tool box. I'm pretty sure it's liquid latex, but who knows. A thin coat on both sides of the gasket (that you let dry before assembly: 5 minutes or less) will seal any scratches or dings in old cam covers, primary covers, rocker box covers, ratchet lids, kicker covers, and so on. For case assembly, a not-so-thin film on either side of the case halves that's allowed to mostly dry before assembly will seal the cases tighter than anything else I've found. The Permatex #2 works fine but I don't like the color. I'm just partial to the gorilla snot. NEVER had a leaky case or treated gasket with it.

Since you like tips, my "essential goopy stuff" box has these things in it... always-

• Gasgacinch for all gaskets not o-ring or metal on older bikes as well as case halves,
  
  
• Loctite, a bottle of each, blue and red,
  
  
• Permatex high-temp Never Seez (anti-sieze goop with nickel and aluminum, for O2 sensors, spark plugs, fork stem nuts, and so on,
  
  
• Red Line assembly lube,
  
  
• Permatex spray battery terminal sealer,
  
  
• white lithium grease (a tub and spray can for everything from sticking needle bearings to the outer race during 4-speed tranny assembly to Evo and earlier oil pumps- pack the gears with grease when assembling and it'll prime the pump right away... do an oil change once the motor is hot)
  
  
• Moly bearing grease for high-pressure bearings and older bronze swingarm bushings,
  
  
• Good multi-purpose grease for roller bearings, caged ball bearings, and so on (moly grease can cause bearing "skid"),
  
  
• Permatex dielectric grease for Deutsch or Molex plugs and headlamp plugs,
  
  
• Moly Blue chain lube (when it's not an o-ring chain and you have shut off the breather/chain-oiler),
  
  
• Brasso liquid metal polish (for polishing old bronze bushings and getting oxidation off aluminum bits before putting a swap meet part on your bike)
  
  
• And 3 old-school squirt cans- one with GM tranny fluid (for when you need a lightweight lube but assembly lube isn't called for like the slide on an SU carb), one with 20W50 (heavier lube), and one with kerosene (for flushing crud out of small nooks an crannies like bolt holes that have grease or other crud accumulated)
  
  Copy and paste and print it out and go shopping. :)

Valid concerns but trust me it’s a breeze to do. Given how hot your CPU gets you will benefit from a proper delid. Granted though you are still within safe temps. The temps are highish but they aren’t abnormal compared to most others. Higher temps do lessen the life of the CPU but we are talking a very small time span compared to the market life of the chip. I’d say you and 99% of all PC builders will have build a second or even third computer before silicone degradation even reaches minimal levels. If that makes sense. Yeah high temps kill it but it’s like saying the three cigarettes you smoked in high school took two minutes off your life when you live to be a hundred anyway. Analogy might be to the extreme but I wouldn’t worry about it.

With that said here’s some links that will help you.

Delid tool and re attachment tool:

https://rockitcool.myshopify.com

Plastic razor blades to remove stock glue (what you mentioned not knowing what to do with, yes remove it the easiest way I’ve done it was using these and a small amount of isopropyl alcohol):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D6EXLR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_nvYleOEGfw2EO

Silicone “glue” for IHS re attachment. To be honest the very first delid I did was a 3570k using wood a vice and a hammer and I didn’t reglue it. It’s still alive too. I would personally just use a very small amount on the four corners. Just enough to stick. You are correct in your concern about the stock glue causing the IHS to not make perfect contact with the die. Remove the stock crap and use minimal amount of this and it will be a non concern:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2g9BJXXKzhp9F

Lastly, your liquid metal for the die to IHS and your TIM for the IHS to Kraken. You can use any but it’s probably safe to say Grizzly is currently the go to stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_6QNoes1d24uyu

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A9KIGSI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_lBeHQg1WHWPGP



All in all it’s easy and it’s worth it. If you have any questions whatsoever message me or reply here. There are some good videos of walkthroughs (I think one really good one is on rockitcool’s website but I’m not sure). I can find them for you but tomorrow as I’m currently in bed and using a half open eye lid to write this.

Here's my setup. I just removed the screw in the top, center of the visor, flipped it around, and replaced the nut with one of these. Then I used some Locktite (there are different strengths, you can get stronger than this one if you never plan on taking off the mount) to make sure it stays on.

Here are the steps to take off the visor:

1. Remove the padding in the helmet.
   
2. Remove the e-clips inside the helmet by your ears.The rods and padding that holds the visor will fall out, put those in a cup or something.
   
3. Gently pull the mouth of the visor away from the helmet. Now you can access the nut holding the top, center screw on. Use a socket driver or adjustable wrench and a phillips screwdriver to take that screw out.
   
4. Now the visor is off and you should be ready to install the mount.
   
   When you're done and have the visor reattached, gently slide the visor up and down on its rail. Mine got shifted and scratched the carbon fiber right next to the rail, so be gentle on your first go to make sure everything is properly aligned and won't damage the glossy finish.
   
   Feel free to PM me with questions.

Follow the directions and you'll be fine. You'll need a Phillips screwdriver to build it, and that's about it. If your Phillips screwdriver is one of those types with "bits", you'll need a regular one as there is a hole that those other ones won't fit in. Everything else should be included, including grease. You might want some threadlock for the metal to metal fastenings: https://www.amazon.com/DuraTrax-Pit-Tech-Threadlocker-2/dp/B0015H6DVC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492756164&sr=8-2&keywords=hobby+thread+lock

You will need a radio, receiver, servo for steering, and battery and charger. You picked a non-performance model here, so you won't need high-end stuff. You could probably get by with a cheap Futaba servo: https://www.amazon.com/Futaba-FUTM0031-S3003-Standard-Servo/dp/B0015H2V72/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1492756615&sr=1-4&keywords=Servo

For radio and receiver I'm hoping someone else can help. I have a Spektrum radio and receiver that I like a lot, but there are cheaper ones - I see Flysky(?) thrown about here often.

For a battery, I recommend a 2S lipo pack such as this. A 5000mah pack will give you around 20 minutes of hard run time and maybe more. Pay attention to how the wires exit the pack! Wires that poke out the end won't work. Neither will the kind that exit the top. You want a pack with wires that come out the corner.

Shop around on the charger. Get a lipo balance charger. Maybe someone can recommend a good one for you as I've got a fairly expensive dual charger. Help me out guys!

RTV Silicone

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBGI8K/

However the trick to making it easy to remove and easy to -delid a second time- with just your fingers (like let's say you messed up the LM) is to apply four VERY small dabs in each corner of the IHS, when using the relid kit. Each dab should be no larger than the size of a pin-head. If you made it the size of a grain of rice, that's a bit too much. If you can't measure or haven't seen a pinhead, half a grain of rice in size would be a good estimate :) Make sure when you delid the first time, you remove all of the original black goop Intel used. Some people also recommend sanding the entire edge of the IHS until the square ring is copper colored, to make sure it's flat.

Super glue is far too brittle to work with a silicone like the loop is made of. A better option would be a silicone adhesive like this: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U .

The problem is that as the loop stretches the super glue would not stretch with it, causing stress and cracking in the cured super glue layer.

I've been looking at the Rockit 88 for several weeks, and every time I check the website it is out of stock. How long did you have the check for stock before you were able to place an order?\

EDIT: They are back in stock!!! I checked two hours ago and there was still a message about a backorder, but they are now in stock!!

Edit2: Links for those interested:

• Rockit 88 de-lidding tool for Haswell, Ivy Bridge, Devil's Canyon, Skylake, and Kaby Lake
  
• Rockit 88 Re-lid tool for 1150/1151 sockets. This is not required but for 8 bucks I feel it's worth it.
  
• Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra to use between the dye and the IHS.
  
• High Temp Silicon for those who want to re-stick their IHS to the PCB. Use a very small amount to allow you to de-lid again if needed and the less you use the closer the IHS will be to the CPU dye.
  
• Whatever Thermal Paste you prefer. It is recommended (but not required) to cover the four gold pins on the PCB that are covered by the IHS with either thermal paste or Silicon. This will avoid shorts if the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra "leaks" off of the dye onto the PCB, it is liquid after all. I use thermal Paste for this as it is easier to remove if needed.

Here’s the link of the glue:
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541959052&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=permatex+gasket+maker&dpPl=1&dpID=51L1E4q5CaL&ref=plSrch

I’ve only tried delidding with the BoArt one, and I’d say the tool has high quality and definitely easy to use for anyone. The rockit88 also comes with the relid tool, but not necessary imo, since I simply applied 4 drops of the glue on each corner of the IHS and put the whole cpu unit back to motherhood, as the retention is strong enough to keep the IHS and PCB together. Lastly, the PRICE! The BoArt one costs only $12.99 compared with $45.99 for rockit88, so its ur choice! :)

Try going to an auto parts store and getting some silicone RTV, probably a small tube.

I could be totally off-base here, but that seems like it would have the desired effect. It's usually temperature resistant, and if you get it somewhere you don't want it, it usually scrapes off pretty easy. Not clothes, or hair unfortunately.

I think you're not supposed to get it on your skin. It'll dry/cure to a silicone gasket material. It's sometimes referred to as gasket maker.

I would not use that ebay kit unless you want to do them a second time.
I would use oem, at the very least felpro.
https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-SUBARU-COMPLETE-2002-2005-Impreza/dp/B01E0L6MMO
Don't forget some hondabond.
https://www.amazon.com/Hondabond-High-Temp-Silicone-Liquid-Gasket/dp/B006YTTV4W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517591322&sr=8-1&keywords=hondabond
Where to put the hondabond... Do not use between the gasket and the valve cover itself. Nothing goes in there. This is only for the gasket to head connection. Make sure its good n clean/scraped and dry before starting the reinstall. If the half moons are in there pretty good, and don't appear to be leaking. Just leave them. I use a little more bond across them than what the picture shows.
http://www.bescaredracing.com/sti/engine/valve_cover/gasket/replacement/instructions.JPG

No kidding? Man, that's a nice surprise.

Sorry, I thought you were saying "seal the crank pulse generator part with hondabond" not the entire cover lol.
Any guess as to how much i will need? Like will the 1.9fl oz be enough or should I get this off brand liquid gasket or are they basically the same thing?

Will I need a razorblade to remove the existing seal?

Sorry for the barrage of questions but thank you so much for the help already.

Here's all my PC parts: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/thareaper/saved/#view=BCKsYJ

As for the silicone I went with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tried to put as little silicone on as I could around the edge so it wouldn't smudge everywhere. It worked pretty well. Hopefully you'll get results like I did!

Here's a link to the same bolt I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040CRVD8 (comes in pack of 5).

It's the same type of bolt except a bit oversize, so you can re-thread the aluminum pan -- just do it slowly and be careful on the first try, perhaps even back out a few times.

I was in the same situation and found this to work. I haven't changed the oil again yet, but I'll make a point to be extra careful re-torquing next time.

One piece of advice I found was to use high temp sealant (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1A) on the bolt at every oil change, as insurance against any lose threading. But just judging form the feel of bolt, once you rethread it seams to be a pretty tight fit; you'd have to be careless to mess it up.

Good luck.

Looks like I may have miscopied it. Here it is

Looks like thingiverse was truncating the link for some reason. I used a shortener and that seemed to fix it. Thanks for pointing that out!

It's a parasitic power loss. I cut the belt on my '01 Accord about 4 years ago.

You should go ahead and replace the input shaft bearing on the transmission. If that's the original 277k transmission, then you're going to have to rebuild it at some point. It sounds more difficult than it is. Here's a list of all the unique parts/tools. You'll know your ISB (input shaft bearing) has failed when you hear a gross/grinding noise that disappears when you're stopped, engine is running, but have the clutch pedal pressed to the floor.


http://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151645763545
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NY8O6K
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBGI8K
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N37CUK

Honda OEM replacement parts for the bearing and seal.
91216-PL3-005
91002-PS0-013

Or something like this might be ideal for you. Not for me though. I'm cheap :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301677670901

Buy a bottle of this stuff. I usually don't buy into these kind of products but it works...I actually just fixed a super leaky box on one of the Defenders in my shop last week with it. It's an additive that causes the seals to swell up slightly..the output seal is typically the culprit so this could solve it.

Agreed, the little "top hat" shaped grommets are great. Might also be able to use gasket maker if nothing else fits. (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-F81160-Hi-Temp-Silicone-3-Ounce/dp/B0002UEN1A/ref=pd_sim_auto_1)

I am a recent convert with a 9" SBR and 762 SDN6, I'll throw my hat in for super versatile esp if you are going to get a can like you said you are planning to.

Suppressed subsonic is much lighter recoiling than 223, you're talking about muzzle energy equivalent to 45 acp and the suppressor acts a as super quiet, very efficient muzzle break. My only complaint would be gas in the face via charging handle however I just spent 6$ on Black Silicone RTVand made a homemade gasbuster charging handle. I've yet to take it the range since but it should cut back on or eliminate gas blowback to the face.

300 Blk can be hard to come by locally but is readily available on the internet and once you have brass is easily reloadable.

Toyota makes the nicest oil sealant I've seen they use it around the valve covers on the v-6's and that stuff is both easy to work with and very durable.

Here's the part number: # 00295-00103 - Genuine Toyota Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0

Silicone, once set up. The proper ones should say food safe or NSF approved. Careful with the ones that are mildew resistant

Here - example

https://www.amazon.com/AST-RTV-27110-Silicone-Adhesive-Cartridge/dp/B00K19YCX6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479253376&sr=8-1&keywords=nsf+silicone+sealant

Agree. Some purists will say to only get the gasket from Mazda. But considering the low price and effort of replacing the valve cover gasket, a Fel-Pro from Amazon should be just fine. You also need some silicone gasket goop for six potential leak spots. One tube should last practically forever.

It is and easy job, but you must be careful to not over tighten the bolts into your aluminum head. Torque to 43 - 78 inch-lbs. Also, tightening the bolts in the order recommended by Mazda will help avoid leaks. Use this guide: http://www.miata.net/garage/valvecover/

I honestly prefer this stuff here over the clear one.

Any 7700k delid tool should be good, rockit 88 is fairly common. This is a great thread if you need info/want to ask questions on delidding The process goes as such:

1. After delidding you'll want to clean off the thermal paste from the die, and all the black silicone around the PCB (the silicone is the main reason for thermal issues... its too thick)
   
   
2. Buy some liquid metal which is fairly cheap. Coolaboratory liquid ultra, thermalgrizzly conductonaut are two of the common liquid metals used
   
   
3. Applying the liquid metal is kind of tricky because you need so little. There should be NO pooling of the LM at all on the die - you do not want it to squeeze out and leak. I cant emphasize this enough - you hardly need ANY... just an extremely thin sheet covering the die. It has also been reported on overclock forums that applying liquid metal to not only the die, but to the underside of the IHS itself can be beneficial thermally. In order to do this, use masking tape to cover everything but the area that the die would contact... then put a tiny amount of LM and rub it in as much as you can, then remove the masking tape!
   
   
4. I'd recommending relidding (rockit has a relidding tool that you can buy separately I believe, in order to line the IHS up perfectly). To relid simply buy some of your own silicone and apply a dot in each corner, keep it minimal... just enough to hold the IHS in place.
   
   
5. After relidding, you're gonna also need thermal paste to go between the IHS and your cooler. Thermalgrizzly's Kryonaut is the best. The quality of your thermal paste honestly doesn't make much of a difference though.

A couple dabs of RTV Silicone Sealant should work. Should be able to remove most of the residue with an exacto knife/box cutter blade when you when you want to take it off..just don't try to yank the bobblehead off, or dig into the dash with the blade. Keep it flat, work it back and forth. Nail polish remover may help with the residue. Or I'm sure there's some type of caulk removal product out there.

Yes, but not the regular sealant. Use something like this; http://www.amazon.com/CRC-401612-Copper-Gasket-Compound/dp/B000M8NZ8E

If you use silicone make sure to use a good one.

An ultra grey automotive silicone should work fine and be a color close to original car color.

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194-High-Torque-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B000HBGI8K

You can find it at any parts store but that is what I would use.

Yea it should be good for a bit. I did a new oil cooler and seals because the old one had a crack in it and made an absolute mess of things. New pushrod tubes and seals, valve cover gaskets, main seal, transmission input shaft seal. Basically everything I could get to without pulling the motor apart too far. Also, this stuff is your friend

I'm not 100% clear what the part is that has failed but if its metal then try JB-weld, if its plastic then some fuel-resistant RTV sealant might work well

like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85420-Permashield-Resistant-Dressing/dp/B007VIGCJW

I've also read about Seal-all (and see another recommendation for it), its marketed as fuel proof.

http://eclecticproducts.com/seal-all.html

You'll just need a timing belt kit and water pump and you should be good to go. So $100. Don't forget the liquid gasket.

EZ Grip or this.

I have done probably a dozen of these. When disassembling, I have always found them sealed with silicone. I have also never had an issue with one leaking. I believe this is the stuff recommended in the service manual. If you look on the opposite end of that, I believe there is a small channel meant to be filled with the sealant.

Of course, if that kit did happen to have a gasket for that location in it, You could certainly use that.

I would try this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K19YCX6/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SVYWYEN6B54TGCYR1XNR

Food grade silicone caulk. Supposed to be good up to 450 degrees. Let it cure for 48 hours.

black rtv like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453094641&sr=8-1&keywords=rtv+silicone)?

Noooo lol this one http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IHLZ5E/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_AGivtb11XQA26

Maybe some Permatex #2 would help? It's the old standby for cooling system leaks.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80011-Form-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B000HBM6NG

Looks a lot like Blue RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

As others have stated, the timing cover itself will need a high temp, oil resistant gasket maker like red RTV.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-25210-Strength-Removable-ThreadLocker/dp/B07R6B87S5


A container like this lasts me over a year and I work on cars nearly every weekend.

I’d search for the hole and put some flame retardant RTV over the hole.

Like this: Permatex 81160 High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket, 3 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEN1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RBlYBb9HRP754

The Yelloblade

Do you know the yelloblade? (All Shrek jokes aside).

This is the gasket maker. You do not need 3.5oz of gasket maker unless you're doing deliding projects left and right - or meant to use it for what it was actually meant for.

Thank you for replying so quickly! I thought that might have been the case also, but it appears that it uses this stuff here rather than an actual gasket.

So, I'm getting a similar setup to yours, here's what I got in addition/instead of your stuff.

• A small fishing tackle box (Plano) to hold allen wrenches and parts while out on the range.
  
• Vortex scope level
  
• Purple loctite
  
• Bore guide
  
• Plano AW Long gun case - similar to a Pelican at 1/3 the price.
  
• Range book/cards
  
• muzzle brake
  
• lenspen
  
  BTW, you could have saved like $10 on buying generic green loctite.

When you did the DIY gas buster CH did you use the red silicone? I want it to be black but I'm unsure if this is the same stuff or not:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I'm not sure, but I suppose I could tint it black later if I got the red...the black one has a slightly different name and I want to make sure it's the right/same stuff.

I'm about to check out walmart to see if they might have it for cheaper but I haven't been able to make it out yet.

I'm in the same boat. I dug around on the Overclocking subreddit and the overwhelming majority say to not re-seal. You might get better temps w/o sealant since the IHS and die will sit closer. If you plan on re-selling the CPU eventually you will need to use sealant.

I think I will use a few small drops of Permatex silicone just to make the CPU easier to install in the mobo. I don't want to deal with the IHS sliding around.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U

I think blue loctite is what you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-242-Threadlocker-Liquid-1-69oz/dp/B002P8LQ1C/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1XJMWRPY3D18Z&keywords=blue+locktite+thread-locker&qid=1563036528&s=gateway&sprefix=blue+lock%2Caps%2C194&sr=8-9

JB weld or some similar product.

Here is the mobile version of your link

Hondabond High-Temp Silicone Liquid Gasket 1.9 fl oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006YTTV4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1NEEyb7NAV52Y

It's high temp RTV

Rtv sealant works. We use it all the time on glycol coolant lines with injection blow molding machines.

Edit: this shit https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81160-High-Temp-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B0002UEN1A

For re-lidding? I used this.

I used THIS

Have you tried transmission sealer? Such as https://www.amazon.com/BlueDevil-Transmission-Sealer-Ounce-00236/dp/B0079JWMME/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

For some cars isn't a bit of liquid gasket required to replace a valve cover gasket in corners where the gasket might not seal as well?

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0

I used some high-temp gasket sealer on my smoker (different style), so if the leaking ever bothers you, give it a try. Temp on this one goes up to 650*F, so can be used in most spots on a smoker.

A little bit of RTV will seal that back up. While this is a temporary fix, I had ridden a Ninja 500 with a torn diaphragm using this fix for thousands of miles without noticing. YMMV

I use a seal cutter. Fairly simple to use, just use a rubber dead blow to wedge it in and then hit the side to push it around the block.

The thing to watch out for is there is a baffle installed between the oil pan and the bottom of the block, all of which is sealed with RTV (could explain why you’re seeing so much of it). Once you get it separated, the pan/baffle like to get caught up on the oil pick up tube so be carful when pulling it down.

As for the stud and nut combo rather than a bolt, that’s factory, and I’m sure there is suppose to be 2 studs.

When putting it back together, the best RTV to use would be Toyota F.I.P.G..

The passenger one is prone to leak more as it sits over the exhaust collector..
It's really not all that hard, the biggest issue is that unless you remove the timing covers, which means removing the timing belt. you have to tip the valve cover under the timing cover. Several tips:

1. Use Threebond 1211.
   
2. Be super meticulous cleaning up all the parts.
   
3. Let the sealant cure at least 24 hours.
   
4. Buy an offset ratcheting 10mm box wrench, you're welcome!
   
5. Remove all the parts to give you good access to the valve cover.
   
6. Once you have carefully placed the newly sealed valve cover on the head, stuff a towel or big rag in between the cover and the engine bay "wall", this will hold the cover in place well enough while you get the bolts in place.
   
7. Remember to use a clocking pattern tightening the bolts, like you do with lug nuts..
   
   Mine leaked, I put in new gaskets, it leaked, I resealed it, it leaked, I had the engine rebuild, it leaked, I used Threebond. It has been a couple years now, no leaks. I sear by the stuff now. People talk about the lack of space and it's not great like on an inline 4, but it's not the worst..
   
   Three bond:https://www.amazon.com/Three-Bond-Engine-Silcone-Gasket/dp/B000GZR4QC/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4MJJYYACMDPR6WCCRM06
   
   The type of wrench I mean: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GearWrench-10-mm-Reversible-Combination-Ratcheting-Wrench-9610N/202738029

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0

Here ya go, Toyotas use this as a oil pan gasket, not in addition to a real gasket just this stuff, I’ve used it plenty of times to hold various gaskets in place and never had a comeback due to a leak.

This.

As a Toyota tech we had to do this all the time.

This shit is magic. Highly recommended for your new gasket material: Genuine Toyota Fluid 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDDTV0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cA3aBbQ7M9372