Reddit mentions: The best flushes

We found 10 Reddit comments discussing the best flushes. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 5 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

🎓 Reddit experts on flushes

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where flushes are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Flushes:

u/AlphaQUp · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

EDIT: I just realized the picture shows the OIL CAP. I thought it was the Radiator cap when I glanced at first. Oh well... I'll leave the post anyways, perhaps it helps someone with cooling issues. OP: I never dealt with that problem. Definitely looks like cross contamination with coolant. But if that's not the case, try looking into a few oil changes (perhaps with low viscosity oil), along with snake oils such as Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil. I had very good luck with them in the past. Best of luck.

Hey man, I had a nearly identical issue with my truck and fixed it without too many problems. This is assuming your head gasket is good and you aren't cross contaminating oil and coolant.

Basically it boils down to (te-heee) use of certain old antifreeze products known to cause this as well as products like "stop-leak" and similar. Those products and inadequate cooling system maintenance can cause this problem.

You will need a flush kit, along with a few bottles of cleaner. You can get both at Walmart cheaper than Amazon. Get also 5-6 gallons of distilled water.

Install the flush kit on the heater core hoses as described in the instructions. If you have trouble determining which is the hose going into the heater core, turn on the car (ensure heat is off) and touch both heater core hoses as it warms up. The one that stays cold is the outlet.

Flush the system with the garden hose as described in the instructions. The first few times you do it you will see a ton of crap coming out. Flush for a few minutes, then turn off the hose and let the water drain for a bit. Close the drain plug and flush cap, empty one bottle of cleaner in the radiator, top it off with distilled water, close fill cap. Drive the car for a few days.

Repeat the above process 5-6 times every few days until the flush water coming out is completely clean and you no longer see baby-shit accumulating under the radiator cap.

Once you have done a couple of rounds and the coolant water is reliably clean (no traces whatsoever of that crap), do a few rounds of distilled water only (to remove all traces of cleaning agent). Then go ahead and fill it up with good quality antifreeze compatible with what's recommended for that vehicle.

Keep in mind that antifreeze is needed for multiple reasons, including lubrication. Just because it's summer and you don't run the risk of coolant freeze, keep in mind that during the above process you will be running the water pump without lubrication. Since it seems like it's your daily driver, you should be able to do the whole process in the span of a couple of weeks without issue.

Good luck and report back with your findings.

u/msnln · 1 pointr/personalfinance

Hondas and Acuras seem to have issues with compliant arm bushings but they don't wear or tear as much as dealers and shops make them out. Do you have any symptoms such as vibrations or shaking from the front? If not, I would get a second opinion. Same with valve adjustment. Do you get rattling/ticking noise coming from the engine? If not, I would not bother doing that either. I had ticking issue along with loss of power on my Accord. Motor flush fixed that at cost under $5. As for the rear main seal, do you have excessive oil leaking? If you are losing less than a quart for every 3,000 miles or so, you are OK. For the alignment, unless your tires are wearing unevenly, you should be OK. Even if you need alignment, there should be plenty of indy shops that do this work for under $100. Your family friend seems to be overly cautious, or not a good friend to recommend.

Now for the necessary repairs, timing belt would be necessary between 110-120K miles, as is spark plugs. Buy the timing belt & water pump kit for around $130-$200 from sites like Rockauto.com and find a indy shop who will do this for you. The labor should be from 3-4 hours. I have used Gates brand kit ($130@Rockauto) and have been very happy. Plugs are around $5 - $9 per for the iridium, which your car has, so around $30 to $54. Use Denso or NGK, which make OEM for your brand.

In all, all the required 100K repairs should be around $600-$800. Then, I would find some better friends.

u/larrymoencurly · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

What does the company that designed, built, and warranted your vehicle say about additives? They warn against using them, and not because additives make your engine last so long that you'll never need to buy a new vehicle again.


Running ATF for 5 minutes won't help, but it shouldn't hurt if you use it like that, unlike taking more drastic measures, like 5-minute engine flush. One person reported that after using the latter, his old Mercedes went from burning a quart of oil every 5,000 miles to a quart every 500 miles plus some blue smoke. And several years ago, the police here stopped a car for pouring out lots of smoke because the garage had filled the engine with 100% ATF.


Apparently ATF has more detergent than engine oil does, and it's often used to free up sticky hydraulic valve lifters by running a pint or quart of it for 100 miles, changing the oil & filter, then after another 100 miles changing them again.

u/CracketyWhomp · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I've used Motul's Chain Clean in the past and love it. The stuff breaks down Maxima Chainwax almost instantly and flashes off in under 10 minutes. However, it's expensive at ~$13 for a can.

Locally I have found it is nearly impossible to find Motul or any other brand of chain cleaner. To try something different I gave Gunk's engine cleaner a shot and it worked just as well as other name brand stuff. MUCH less expensive too at $4 or $5. Spray it on, scrub the chain, hose it off, apply lube.

http://www.amazon.com/Gunk-EB1-Engine-Original-Degreaser/dp/B000630ICQ

u/maccd87 · 3 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

I got screwed by a bad tranny... heh.. on a used car deal once. Nothing worthwhile pursuing legally. If you want to post up the dealer, discredit them via internet, that might bring a smile to your face but it won't fix your trans.

Try and flush the trans, and add an external tranny cooler. Don't forget to flush the lines cans like this make it easy - http://www.amazon.com/Dr-Tranny-19001-Cleaner-Universal/dp/B001DKNH8I/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396537251&sr=1-1&keywords=transmission+line+flush. This requires minimal wrench knowledge and $ to see if this trans can be saved.

Your fluid doesn't look that awful.

u/3030tron · 2 pointsr/videos

There are a lot of commercially available engine desgreasers that you can buy. Oddly enough Gunk is what I normally use. Brake or carb cleaner can be used in a pinch.

u/medic26 · 2 pointsr/homeowners

Makes sure you are following the prescribed startup procedure, e.g prime and choke. Might also try something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B0TCN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qCMBybEXAAME3