Reddit mentions: The best garage door opener system parts

Just as a point of comparison, I have a 2005 Craftsman garage door opener and just purchased this MyQ upgrade kit (this is not the generic one for any opener).

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IPKPVCE/

It works great, the MyQ app is very nice aside from having to sign back in after several days, and the integration with Wink has been flawless (compared to some of the other Wink features).

I can't remember the last time I've been as happy with a technology purchase. I didn't want to have to rig something together that required frequent maintenance, or have it not be integrated with the opener and require a sensor with a battery like the generic MyQ adapter, Wink Ascend, or some others.

It does seem Chamberlain is willing to partner with other companies to allow them to link into it such as Staples Connect is supposedly working on. Though if you want integration with a specific HA controller, obviously I wouldn't buy the kit until the integration exists. Most of these companies add features at a snail's pace.

If you have a Chamberlain or Liftmaster (or compatible) garage door opener, you can install the LiftMaster MyQ Retrofit Package to add smart capabilities.

This enables you to see the state of, and control, the garage door via their website, mobile app.

It also works with certain 3rd party integrations, such as Wink and Nest, to control the door, alert on events, and initiate actions based on the door status. For example, you can have your Nest go into home/away mode, or have lights turn on/off, locks open/close, etc., based on the door opening or closing.

You can set up rules to notify you if the door is opened/closed and/or left open/closed for set periods of time. I have mine set to send an alert on the door opening and another alert if it's left open for 5 minutes.

You can also set (locally, on the control panel) the door to automatically close after 1, 5, or 10 minutes.

For safety reasons, you can't officially automate the opening or closing of the door, although there are some unofficial ways to use the API for this.

If you really want to make something, then please by all means do so. It will be a learning experience, and pretty fun. It is unlikely you will save a significant amount of money, but the geek factor is HIGH.

However, the MyQ system from Liftmaster is dead simple to install and use. I've had pretty good luck with it. Here it is for $70.

Are you looking for one solution to meet all those needs? I can control garage door, lights, and thermostat remotely from my phone, but each one is a different app. I use Philips Hue and its app for the lights, GoGo Gate for garage door and my Honeywell thermostat came with a device that connects to my LAN and there's an app for controlling it.

I also have surveillance cameras which use Blue Iris software, which runs on a Windows PC. Needs a pretty beefy CPU for recording 24x7 multiple cameras in HD. Mine uses an i7-4790K. Recordings are stored in the PC or somewhere on the local network, not in the cloud, so there's no worry about some company going out of business and you losing your ability to record and monitor.

I use PIR (infrared) motion detectors for the cameras instead of the image-based motion detection either via the camera or Blue Iris. Image-based detection is unreliable outdoors. Trees moving in the wind causes shadows to set it off, as do car headlights and on partly cloudy days, quickly moving clouds can set it off. So I switched to PIR detectors and they're far better. Then I wrote some code to also turn on certain Hue lights indoors when motion is detected outdoors. This is to give the illusion that someone is home and awake in various parts of the house if someone is creeping around outside. There are motion detector lights outside as well.

Funny, I just got an email from Liftmaster/Chamberlain in regards to a myQ update implementing a new feature, looks like it's called Family Share. It looks like you'll be able to add people so they can control the door through the app, and then you can remove them when they're done.

If you just have 1 garage door, this kit should get you going.

Overhead Door is the only company that comes to mind for any reputable company in the area. You can actually mod an existing garage door to do different things. I found some resources from Amazon a while back. I have a LiftMaster, so I saved this stuff for myself. I'm sure that you can find easy solutions similar to this. Greetings from Hanover.

Liftmaster 888LM Security+ 2.0 MyQ Wall Control Upgrades Previous Models 1998 (and later) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B8BFG0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ebl1DbZCCAZZ0

Chamberlain/Liftmaster Cigbu Internet Gateway For Myq Technology Enabled Garage Door Openers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B7CDSQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bcl1DbM8CD8JJ

The device is finicky for sure. Every so often, it goes offline and the only way to get it back online is to unplug it and plug it back again. Sometimes, it looses the state of the garage door: It thinks it's open when it's closed and vice versa. One of the worst part of this device is the support from BestBuy. BestBuy will push firmware updates, without asking you, and that firmware update may be worse than the last one. If I had to do it all over again, I would choose something like iSmartGate: https://www.amazon.com/ISMARTGATE-PRO-Garage-aka-Gogogate2/dp/B07PZDKMZ9/ref=sr_1_3?crid=XDBR70GEWZ9C&keywords=ismartgate&qid=1564941990&s=gateway&sprefix=ismartgate%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-3

It's more expensive, but the people who have it say it's very stable. But the iSmartgate came out a year after the Insignia product, so it's still failry new. On the whole, the Insignia device is pretty flaky.

Just a final comment to close this out. Rather than get a new GD opener, I just got a replacement logic board because everything else in the old opener was fine (motor, gears, capacitor).

The new logic board (~$80) arrived yesterday. Putting it in took less than 20 minutes, and I used the opportunity to put some Lubriplate grease on the gears. Took another 20 minutes to pair the car buttons and the MyQ hub. Everything works hunky-dory.

Thanks all, especially u/jmd_forest.

It is probably this one in 7' or 8' or whatever. It looks like it costs way too much to be worthwhile. belt The internal gears usually wear out on the older ones like that so not worth sinking much $ into. Also maybe someone buys a new appliance and the remotes quit working. There are reasons to upgrade.

I have almost the same opener as you. I wanted something simple to allow remote open/close and notifications if it's been open. I didn't really want the complexity of SmartThings so I went with the Chamberlain Gateway. It works great and you can setup custom push notifications that notify you through their app.

I have that same opener. The two sections you're talking about are where the long threaded rod was split for packaging, and where they are joined together. It's meant to not be threaded for that inch or so. If the entire rod spins, it's fine, and the problem is likely with the little shuttle (called a trolley) that rides along the rod. It SHOULD be long enough (it's like 4 inches long) that it can ride over the "missing" threads without issue. If it's not, there's something wrong with it.

But, given how you asked the question, I'd call a pro. Probably take them 30 minutes to fix it. If it costs more than $150 plus parts, that's too much.

Replacement trolleys are easy to find on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Genie-36179R-S-Screw-Carriage-Assembly/dp/B017RYW03Q

So I just built a new house, and the builders installed a MyQ-compatible motor (has the little MyQ logo on it). In this case, all one would need is this.

If your garage door is NOT MyQ-compatible, one would need this instead. This option is able to control non-MyQ garage doors. From Amazon: "MyQ Garage works with most major brands of garage door openers made after 1993. Compatibility is based on whether existing garage doors and openers are equipped with adequate safety features, such as sensor eyes. For more information about compatibility, visit Chamberlain.com/MyQGarage"

Been here. Done this. But my carriage is slightly different.

I'm on the third one now. Installed mid summer.

My repair part looked like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Genie-36179R-S-Excelerator-Garage-Carriage/dp/B0083N8N5U/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_1_1/182-2323287-4899210

Yours appears to be two parts. More like this:

http://www.northshorecommercialdoor.com/gegadoopcaki.html?utm_source=amazon&utm_medium=cse

Start here?

http://www.northshorecommercialdoor.com/gepaac.html

I wanted them to update this one to home kit, benefits are it directly connects to your router and requires no additional tilt sensor.

I have been using it and works great with home-bridge and Home Assistant.

I see.. thanks for the insight! I am going to test one of these..

I have my fingers crossed, but my expectations are tempered.

If this fails then I'll just fall back on the 2x4 solution you suggested.

Not sure if you are aware but you may want to get her an Emergency Release Lock for the future. It will make it easier if you don't have a separate entrance or if the power goes out.

Link didn't work for me, but yes, the MyQ uses a hub. I think I have this one. It needs power and an ethernet connection, and needs to be close enough to the garage doors. The door opener might come with it?

*I found the item you linked, it specifically states hub not included.

I've got one of these in my garage: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-GPS1000-Lighting-Garage-Station/dp/B00GEFDG9M&ved=2ahUKEwjljp2ly_fkAhWSsJ4KHUTwD0YQFjAAegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw1WBzXact2eoJljJZS17xGJ

I've had it for 5 years, so not BIFL yet, but it's always worked and installed easy.

Get this (or the Liftmaster one):

https://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-CIGBU-Internet-Gateway-Enabled/dp/B00B7CDSQ8

Get this sensor:

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=11987

Load this smart app via the Smartthings IDE

https://community.smartthings.com/t/release-myq-lite-for-liftmaster-chamberlain/49150

Enjoy!

These are the handles: https://amzn.to/2LJaYJN I took a pair of sturdy pliers and a crescent wrench and bent the mounting tabs slightly to fit the curve of the grill. I think you can see what I'm referring to in one of my other pictures

And this is the thermometer: https://amzn.to/2JvcMn4 I get a couple cents in amazon referral on this...full disclosure

What about something like this?

A follow up for anyone who finds this post. Here is the result

I purchased this adjustable reinforcement bracket off of amazon. I also purchased self tapping metal screws but the door's metal is too thin to support them on their own and ultimately used #8 1" machine screws and bolts. I couldn't find cuts of wood or angle iron that fit the limited space I could mount the reinforcement bracket. I cut the angel iron so it wouldn't hit on the door when opening. I forgot to add the other piece on the top but it seems to be holding without any signs of strain. If it breaks, I'll post another follow up.

If your asking how to add MyQ to your current garage door opener, you'll need this.

https://www.liftmaster.com/for-homes/Accessories/MyQ-Accessories/model-MYQPCK

I bought mine at Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IPKPVCE

I just installed mine last night, you need the my q internet gateway, not all openers come with it, but the serial number is on the bottom of the gateway. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B7CDSQ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479230823&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=myq

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Garage-Compatible-Openers-Android/dp/B07HRMFBRW/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=bluetooth+receiver+for+garage+door&qid=1565557953&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Genie-Aladdin-Connect-Controller-Android/dp/B07K7SK343/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=bluetooth+receiver+for+garage+door&qid=1565557953&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Check out iSmartGate it’s HomeKit enabled. Just check compatibility with your opener first.

This is the pro version that allows it to open 2 doors
ISMARTGATE PRO Garage (aka. New Gogogate2) - HomeKit, Google Assistant, Alexa and iFTTT Compatible Controller to remotely Open, Close and Monitor from Anywhere with Smartphone. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PZDKMZ9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_x8DjDbCJK1P70

This one allows one door
ISMARTGATE LITE Garage (aka. New Gogogate2) - HomeKit, Google Assistant, Alexa and iFTTT Compatible Controller to remotely Open, Close and Monitor from Anywhere with Smartphone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PX311B3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_f9DjDb4AWF7MW

The garage door opener can be found here
ismartgate garage door opener

Gogogate is an option I think.

https://www.amazon.com/Gogogate2-Wireless-Garage-Door-Sensor/dp/B00YULBRWK/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1523222473&sr=8-17&keywords=garage%2Bdoor%2Bsensors&th=1

i have that built into the pad that mounts on the wall - it defaults to about a minute and beeps beforehand. I am out of the country or else I would send a picture of the keypad. very similar to the one in the middle of this main picture - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Chamberlain-1-1-4-HP-Equivalent-Ultra-Quiet-Belt-Drive-Smart-Garage-Door-Opener-with-Battery-Backup-B970/301951467?MERCH=REC-_-NavPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-301951467-_-N

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edit - found it - this is what i have - https://www.amazon.ca/LiftMaster-888LM-828LM-Retrofit-Package/dp/B00IPKPVCE/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=myq&qid=1559023256&s=gateway&sr=8-11

A lot of people use tennis balls as they tend to be fuzzy and bounce off of the windshield.

They also sell “professional” kits: https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-GD-52286-Stop-Right-Retracting/dp/B00DS596MM/

Is this different than the one at Amazon that is only $45?

I assume you're talking about this


I had this device and it did everything I needed. That $99 model wasn't out yet when I purchased mine.

edit. I believe my $50 device only worked with Chamberlain garage door openers that had built in MyQ technology that made it compatible. I think the $99 device makes virtually any garage door opener compatible.

Genie Universal Dual Frequency Conversion Kit – Eliminates Frequency Interference and Upgrades Garage Door Openers (Compatible with Most Opener Brands) – Model GIRUD-1T https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RYV05S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_kao3BbKBRH49S

The teeth on the carriage can be damage over time. Some of them are even plastic. Had to replace mine when this started happening.

https://www.amazon.com/Genie-36179R-S-Assembly-Equipment-Manufacturer/dp/B0083N8N5U/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=carriage+genie&qid=1554322181&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Negative, that switch will not work as intended with a garage door opener. You need this:


https://www.amazon.com/Genie-GIRUD-1T-Alleviates-Interference-Intellecode/dp/B000RYV05S/

Alright, I repaired my A/C for 40 bucks.

If AC unit won't click on, then try this:

What you do:

1. Turn off power
   
   
2. Remove the panel on the side of the unit.
   
   
3. Look at and write down everything on the Contactor and the Capacitor. Model, serial, voltage, etc.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-DP2040A5003-conditioning-control-contactor/dp/B00097BDW8
   
   Thats a contactor.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Sears-Craftsman-Liftmaster-Chamberlain-Capacitor/dp/B0007PQBW4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1279901226&sr=1-3
   
   Thats a capacitor.
   
   
4. Turn on Power.
   
   
5. Take the information from that. type it into google. Find the parts or at least a very similar item, based on voltage/amperage, etc.
   
   Order them. Wait for them to arrive.
   
   
6. Now they have arrived. Turn off power again.
   
   
7. Take a photo of the wires. This will be useful later if you fuck up and mess something up.
   
   
8. Remove one wire at a time, placing that wire immediately onto the new part in the same place. Once all wires are connected, screw it onto the unit.
   
   Do the same thing with the capacitor and contactor.
   
   
9. Turn on power. Is the button sucked in on the comnector? No? Push it in. It should stay stuck in.
   
   This is a 40 dollar fix to one of the most common problems that A.C units have. Its much cheaper than calling a repair guy (90 bucks to show up before parts)
   
   Good luck sir.
   
   Also, if you can't afford to risk wasting 40 bucks here, you could invest about 12 dollars or so in something like this
   
   http://bestofferbuy.com/LCD-Display-Digital-Voltage-Tester-Pen-Detector-Meter-p-17406.html?currency=USD&utm_source=gbase&utm_medium=cse&utm_campaign=gbase
   
   The wires sucking in Energy should set this sucker off. The wires AFTER the contact might not be getting enough energy because the capacitor or the contactor is bad.