Reddit mentions: The best garage & shop products

From what I've heard, you don't actually need to take your wheels off to dip. If you don't know what tools you'll need to do it, then you probably should go this route.

However if you still want to get some good tools to learn how to work on your car, here's what you'll need:

Floor jack this is the Harbor Freight one. It can be found in stores for as low as $70 depending on coupons. It's actually a pretty decent jack. Its very low and it lifts well. It's pretty good quality too, just very heavy. If you're not in the states/near a HF, do some research on a decent one as you don't want to drop your car on anyone/anything.

Jack stands you'll need four if you want to take all your wheels off at once. I don't have these stands and I don't know anything about them so do your research on some good ones (they don't have to be very expensive) and make sure to get some that will support your vehicles weight. Remember, be safe.

Breaker bar this will help you get the leverage you need to break your lug nuts loose. It's a very smart idea to properly torque your lug nuts back down when you put your wheels back on so they don't fall off or you don't snap a stud. Here's a combo kit with a torque wrench and that same breaker bar I have a few Tekton brand tools and I'm very pleased with them. They are a fantastic budget option that isn't junk. I would definitely buy from them again (and I'm a bit of a tool snob)

Lug nut sockets this is a generic kit that I have no experience with. You'll need a socket to fit on your breaker bar and torque wrench. This is a set with multiple sizes, you only need one size for your car so if you want to save some money, figure out what size your lug nuts are and just get one socket. The ones in this kit and some you'll find elsewhere are coated in a plastic sleeve to prevent scratching on your wheels.

Gloves Gloves aren't necessary but some people like them to keep from getting their hands super dirty. You can get as cheap or as expensive as you like with gloves. These seem to be popular. If you do go to HF to buy a floor jack, I like their heavy duty black nitrile gloves. They're disposable and very strong.

This should be all you need to get started with changing tires and whatnot. I'm on mobile so sorry for the inevitable typo. Good luck with your wheels and don't forget to post pictures on the finished product. I'll link some more tools below this if you'd like to build of a kit to do basic maintenance like changing your oil, etc...

Socket set This is a very good place to start with sockets. I linked a 1/4 drive and 3/8 combo set. The smaller 1/4 inch drive sockets are great for small places and will be fine for a lot of your car. The 3/8 inch drive set is good for larger fasteners or things that are a bit tighter. If you were only going to get one, I'd get the 3/8 drive. Alternatively if you want something a little bit better, GearWrench makes very good sockets and ratchets for a good price as well (more than Tekton but way less than "professional" tool truck brands)

Oil drain pan Doing an oil change is a great way to do maintenance on your car and get started before you do bigger things. You'll need to drain the old oil somewhere so a pan like this is perfect. You don't need anything too fancy. I think I got mine from my local auto parts store for ~$10.

Screwdrivers There's a million different options for these. My personal favorites are the Wera Kraftform screwdrivers they are super comfortable and they have a special non slip tip that is amazing. I don't want to use any other screwdriver ever after this. (They're on sale now too!! They're usually about ~$10 more than this. I almost want to get an other set just because)

Pliers These are great pliers at a good price. Keep them clean and they should last a long time. I'm very happy with mine.

I can't think of much more right now. You'll know when you need something else. This also depends on what kind of car you have. Jeeps for example, use a lot of torx fasteners so you'd need torx sockets for a lot of stuff. Just make sure you watch a lot of videos on how to do things and make sure you're comfortable doing whatever it is you're doing. The last thing you want to do is damage you or your car.

Edit - Nice Safety Glasses are the first thing to get with a lathe!

It sort of depends on the types of things he wants to make, but a good starter set like this https://www.amazon.com/Turning-Turning-Hardwood-Handles-Ferrules/dp/B07TTFLDLB/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=wood+lathe+chisel+set&qid=1572720167&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMlA1NVQ4TkgzUFFMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzQ1NDcwMjJIOVY5U0hERTlMRCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTYzNDM3MTI0R0tSU0hRVk9RMiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

or

https://www.amazon.com/Savannah-7173-Turning-Hardwood-Ferrules/dp/B004MM3MES/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=wood+lathe+chisel+set&qid=1572720167&sr=8-5

will keep him busy for awhile as he finds his style. The real key is to get him a good way to sharpen these chisels. I like to use a 4 sided block or individual plates like these;

https://www.amazon.com/Jewboer-Diamond-Sharpening-Polishing-Whetstone/dp/B0752Q7GQ3/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=2LXHR48U1CLJS&keywords=4+sided+diamond+hone+block&qid=1572720305&sprefix=4+sided+diamond+%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFNMTBUWkE0MUhXNkcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwNDgwNTYzTVFQQVlZQjdEOTdNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyMDUwNTEyQzFXSko5N1Y0Sk0md2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

or

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Whetstone-6-Inch-Sharpening-Sharpener/dp/B07JVV7JD6/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2LXHR48U1CLJS&keywords=4+sided+diamond+hone+block&qid=1572720305&sprefix=4+sided+diamond+%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-6

Some people like to use a bench grinder for sharpening but in my experience it is a a bit easier to use the honing blocks and stones until you have an idea of what angles you like best. Im terrible about dropping my chisels so I use the 200 grit to fix up dings and generally touch up my chisels with a 400&600 grit stone once a week or every other.

The other often forgotten necessity is oil for the lathe & chisels.I use a light oil on my chisels, lathe accessories like chucks & tapers, the bearings & spindle, and anything else on the machine that spins. The brand I like and have seen in a few different shops is Zoom Spout Oiler https://www.amazon.com/Supco-CE441-Zoom-Spout-Oiler/dp/B00DM8JK2G/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3NI4QXDJATASP&keywords=zoom+spout+oiler&qid=1572720750&sprefix=zoom+spout%2Caps%2C225&sr=8-4

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For the Lathe Ways & the body of the machine, everything that doesn't get Light oil I use Way Lube.https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-100772-Vactra-No-2-Way/dp/B07B7XZKVF/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=lathe+way+oil&qid=1572720930&sr=8-1

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Squirt everything spinny down with light oil before and after you use the lathe and you wont have issues with dust & chips gunking everything up. Way lube can go on once a month or whenever you want a fresh shine.

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You are such a nice girlfriend, He is going to be stoked!! Good luck!!

Additional Notes:

I hope this is the right subreddit. Putting this first because it is the important part. I am looking for a sort of project car but one for someone that has no mechanic experience. I have an engineering degree, but have never worked with automotives. My current car is good enough to last at least til december so I am looking for a car that I can work on until then and eventually have it become my daily car. I want this to be a learning experience so by the end of it all I will be somewhat efficent at basic mechanic work as well as tuning, performance upgrades, etc. I have never owned a manual car but desire this so that I learn how to drive stick as well as they seem to have the most viability when talking about upgrades and working on them. I plan on using 3k USD on the inital purchase but if I find something for less then the remainder of the 3k will go straight back into the car being purchased. I also plan on spending between 300-600 USD a month on parts to gradually upgrade performance and eventually apperance. The idea is putting roughly 6-7k into a car and make it a learning experience instead of just purchasing something I wont want to work on. I also have a mechanic that can look at the car during the initial purchase but any links that will help with identifying problems especially for specific cars will be appreciated.


Can you do Minor/major work on your own vehicle:

I just purchased a the following as starter mechanics tools

• Craftsman 230-Piece Mechanics toolset
  
  
• TEKTON Universal Joint Set
  
  
• Neiko 1/2 Inch drive premium Breaker Bar
  
  
• Kobalt 5-piece pliers set
  
  
• Pro-Lift F-767 Grey Low Profile Floor Jack - 2 Ton Capacity
  
  
• Torin T43002 Jack Stands: 3 Ton Lift Capacity
  
  And also a Ball Pein Hammer and Rubber Mallet
  
  
  If you have any recommendations other than what I purchased, I can still return any of these items and purchase others. Any other items I might need let me know. I plan on getting more tools as I need them.
  
  
  
  Location: USA, Texas, Rio Grande Valley Area
  
  Price range: Max 3000 USD for inital purchase
  
  New or used: Used
  
  
  Must haves: Easy to work on; Cost-Performance Efficent aftermarket parts; Ability to Upgrade
  
  
  Intended use: Project car for a couple months; Eventually Daily Use
  
  
  Vehicles you've already considered:
  
  
  
• 2000 Honda Civic EX D16Y8 Engine
  
  
• 1992 Corolla Toyota
  
  
• 1989 Honda civic ef sedan w/D15Z1 off 92-93 civic vx
  
  
• 1999 Honda Civic Coupe 1.6 vtec
  
  
• 1991 Honda Civic Hatchback
  
  
• 1997 vtec Hoonda Civic
  
  
• 1995 Honda Civic
  
  
• Civic Ex D19Y8
  
  
• 2000 Honda Civic Vtec 1.6
  
  
• 1984 vw rabbit gti
  
  
• 1999 Ecclipse
  
  
• 2000 Ranger
  
  
• 2000 Eclipse
  
  
• 1990 Mustang foxbody 5.0
  
  
• 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage
  
  
• 03 Mits Eclipse GTS Spyder
  
  
• CAMARO Z28
  
  
  I am open to suggestions but am more fond of light cars with better mpg
  
  
• Local Craigslist
  
  
• Local Craigslist 2
  
  Is this your 1st vehicle: No, currently have a 99 Toyota Corolla LE with 287k miles purchased at 170k and I put on the rest. I just had regular oil changes and minor things fized like sparkplugs. It had problem with the starter 6 months ago but banging on it made it work with no problems since then. No aftermarket parts and only problems currently is the evap cannister that I havent fixed and paint restoration as the clearcoat is gone aa I was ignorant on washing and waxing regularly as I live in a hot climate. It also has some rust on the roof and around the doors starting the develope. The corolla is okay, but being an automatic I assume there isnt much performance upgrades available. I also have the ability to purchase a 2005 Ford Escape XLT that works fine and just had a new cpu, tires and air compressor installed and has no current problems besides being Ford red in color ha
  
  
  
  Any help, opinions are greatly appreciated. If you would like to mentor me during this process as well, it would be cool to have someone in which I could ask question and get definite answers as no one in my immediate family or friends are car buffs.
  

Removing the questionable gas is the safest option, & no reason not to do it. If you don't want to suck through a hose & want to spend money you can try something like a shaker siphon https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10801-FloTool-Shaker-Anti-Static/dp/B000EH0ORI

 

You can try to run it, it most likely won't hurt anything, it's not a huge risk. But for only ~$10-15 worth of gas it's not the best idea. If it were my truck I would try it, but that's because I would feel comfortable handling any negative side effects myself, without having to spend much money.

When it's time to put fresh fuel in, it's not a bad idea to only fill the tank with a few gallons worth of fresh gas & drive it for a day or so (then check for leaks/smells). There's a chance that the reason it wasn't being used is because it has an issue, but hopefully/likely it'll be alright.

A good fuel system cleaner would be Redline SL-1, or BG 44k.

Hope you enjoy your new truck.

Thanks for the post. As someone who is a new homeowner in FL and lived here through Matthew and Irma but not through mass devastation, this helps me understand what that looks like.

Your comments about tire repair struck me. I am planning on ordering this well-reviewed plugger. What air pump do you have?

In regards to cleanliness I keep some body wipes too, but for helping larger amounts of people I definitely see the value of the shower + soap.

For the gas can, check out this one - much safer than the plastic cans and I am very happy with the flexibility of the nozzle. I'll likely get a long funnel for it too, just in case.

Wheels can be the time consuming part, but the most fun.
My set-up for wheels & tires:

Tuf Shine Tire Brush:
This is better than Mother's Tire Brush, just does the job better. Obsessed Garage talked about it, it's bound to be good.

SuperClean Degreaser:
I like this one because the smell isn't as strong as Meguiar's Wheel Brightener, and I can use it for both wheel and tires at once. Scott from Dallas Paint Correction & Auto Detailing recommend this one and it's hard to look back after using it. Buy a small bottle first before buying a gallon to see if you like it.

Wheel Woolies:
I hesitated to spend $50 on these brushes, but after buying them I had no regrets. You don't get the splash back from other wheel brushes.

Black Wash Mitt:
I used to use this one but I find that using a black microfiber mitt for the face of the wheel and in between the spokes made it a lot faster, and you can get behind the spokes too. But that brush is useful for lug nuts though.

Creeper Seat: This is a nice to have if you're working on a flat surface. Nice to have but not a necessity.

I don't have an extension cable, just the adapter I linked but evse does sell extension cables as well and since I've had a good experience with their adapter I'd probably buy extension cable from them as well if I needed one.

I would assume this would work but I'd be Leary daisy chaining third party adapters together which is what you'd be doing. Is the extension cable necessary for your use scenario? Could you get by with just the adapter and your UMC?

Here's evse's adapter. You could email them and ask them if it would be ok to use the adapter and extension cord together.

https://www.evseadapters.com/collections/adapters-for-tesla/products/heavy-duty-nema-14-50-extension-cord-for-tesla-20-ft

I'll also add that I just searched on amazon for Tesla 10-30 adapter and found this adapter. It also lists an extension cable that is frequently purchased together. I can't speak to the quality of these though but the reviews look positive. Always hard to tell. All I can say is the one I have has worked flawlessly and I used it nearly every day for a year. Here's the one from amazon though.

Conntek 30-Amp NEMA 10-30P Dryer Plug to 50-Amp Electric Vehicle Adapter Cord for Tesla https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STD8S7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AvltybT8SJW5Z

[Edit] Just saw chip812's post. As he mentioned, you can skip the jack and stands and just get some ramps if you prefer. I have never used them though. Also, depending on how low your vehicle rides, you might not even need any lifting whatsoever to reach the oil pan drain plug and oil filter.

You will need a a jack stand(they come in pairs), such as these.

The emergency jack that came with your van for flat-tire repair will do for the lifting, but you should probably buy a regular floor jack, such as: this. Consult your van's manual to find out where the jack points are.

You can buy a catch-pan from your local auto-parts store. There are open-top ones, and then there are ones that seal with a lid, so that you can store the spent oil for a while before disposing of it. Up to you in which you prefer.

The auto-parts store will have a huge catalog next to the oil/air filters, which will tell you the type of filter from each manufacturer that fits your van. Not much difference between them, so go with what you're comfortable spending.

As for conventional vs. synthetic, I'm not terribly well-versed on the benefits. I've read that synthetic oil lasts longer before breaking down, compared to conventional oil. I know many sports cars require synthetic oil. If your van is a general commuter vehicle, then maybe save a few pennies and go conventional. Again, largely up to you. Brand doesn't matter terribly, as they're all pretty much safe/good for your particular vehicle.

Also note, use the containers that the new oil came in to store the old oil. The auto-parts store will have a recycling container in the back where they will let you dump it.

I really like the shaker siphons for fuel transfer. I keep one attached to my jerry cans.
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-10801-FloTool-Shaker-Anti-Static/dp/B000EH0ORI

Or at harbor freight if that is more your speed. https://m.harborfreight.com/self-priming-copper-jiggler-pump-47334.html?utm_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fduckduckgo.com%2F

I have both and the only difference is the hose on the harbor freight version tends to collapse when bent.

For Jerry cans I like the Wavian brand jerry cans. I store fuel (with stabilizer) for 6-12 months at a time before cycling it and I wanted something that wasn’t going to leak or vent. They are heavy steel and coated internally. Those can be had directly from Wavian with free shipping so you know you aren’t getting a knockoff from a ripoff artist on Amazon. Priced exactly the same as Amazon.

Great story! Thank you for volunteering it’s nice to have a reminder that good ppl are out there!

Tracked it down...it's a fluid extractor:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR7TC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got it when I got a car that takes synthetic oil, and I love anything DIY, especially if it's saving you a ton! It will pretty much pay for itself after a use or two.

You have to put some elbow grease into pumping it, but once the oil gets going it's very easy and doesn't take too long at all! When it fills up, I'll just put the old oil in an empty oil bottle and take it to Pep Boys, which does free oil recycling. :)

Yeah, if it's a practicality thing I use this "shaker" siphon and red plastic fuel cans.

If it's an aesthetics thing: then no.

I use this for a lot of gas, and it works well. Why? Because I was reading the Kroger fuel discount brochure one day and realized my reward was for up to 35 gallons of gas. I was essentially throwing over half my reward away by using it on 15 gallons of gas. So now, I take my car and four five gallon containers about once a month and save 50 to 70 cents per gallon on 35 gallons ($210-$294 for a year/ enough for a membership to the children's museum and zoo). Before I was using a funnel, but that shaker siphon was a godsend. I just set the 5 gallon container on my trunk (old car) and start it going and come back in a few minutes.

Maybe that helps? I use it for my mower and moped too.

Hi-Lift jacks are really designed for agricultural applications, like jacking up a wheel tractor by the axle, but they work great for off-road vehicle stuff. However, the jack does not mate with typical "civilian" bumpers well. 4 Wheel Drive Parts, Summit Racing, Amazon and others sell an adapter that fits on a Hi-Lift and allows you to jack up a vehicle with a conventional curved steel bumper. It's called a BL-250 bumper lift.

http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-BL-250-Bumper-Lift/dp/B00042JSNY/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1464636486&sr=8-10&keywords=high+lift+jack+accessories

And the Hi-Lift jack, itself.

http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-XT485-48-X-TREME/dp/B0017T7WHW/ref=pd_sim_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=31uiCiEJb%2BL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0R8PKSGH1MMK7F92NCXS

Over the years, I have found three used Hi-Lift jacks at garage sales, etc. usually for very reasonable prices--$30-$40. They are extremely tough, and can be re-built easily. I would never trust a vehicle sitting on a jack, not a Hi-Lift or any other jack. The vehicle must be sitting on JACK STANDS to be safe. Never go under any vehicle sitting on a jack without jack stands.

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T41202-Jack-Stands-pair/dp/B0002H335A/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464637124&sr=1-1

I'd do the maintenance routine just to be sure it's ready to roll. Details are in the owners manual. Basically, air compressor and blow out the power head. Light oil on the sheaves in the oil holes, any light oil like 3-in-1 will work but I like zoomspout because you can get down to the lower sheaves without having to take the headstock cover off. Graphite lube on all the controls and threaded components, paste wax on the way tubes, table, quill and any other unpainted parts.

It's not critical immediately, but you probably want to wire cup those bottom tubes at some point to get all the rust off and then paste wax to prevent future rusting.

I'd pick up a Penn State shopsmith adapter for the lathe, and then you can use any standard 1x8tpi lathe chuck. The barracuda 2 is a great kit that covers everything you need for small to mid-size turnings and is much more affordable than a nova or oneway chuck. Pick up a tailstock live center or two if you don't have one. While you are at penn state, pick up the shopsmith compatible pen mandrel if you want to try pen turning.

Shopsmith sells the jacob's chuck you need for the drill press. Used ones are a little cheaper on ebay. You might also want a tailstock drill chuck (or a cheaper one from harbor freight) for the lathe, especially if you fancy trying pen turning.

Make sure you have a power coupler or two, you need them for the bandsaw/jointer.

If you need any parts (bearings, belts, switches, etc) for your shopsmith, try Jacob's Repair Shop before you order from the mothership, he sources parts that are cheaper and higher quality than the stock ones.

No touching the drain plug or having to crawl under the car. Can use this to change all your fluids, without getting your "hands dirty". Can become best friends to all your friends/family when you loan it to them for easy oil changes lol.

I bought this one but used off kijiji. It was a great deal. Highly recommend the 7201 model, as it's container size will be big enough to extract all the motor oil.

https://www.amazon.ca/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC

Great technique. I'd say the only thing I'd add to your arsenal is something to sit on. Future you will thank present you. :)

I have this. Probably one of my best investments aside from the DA.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B000COC67E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524070761&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mechanic+seat+roller&dpPl=1&dpID=51mTq0RTAOL&ref=plSrch

These are my most used tools for working on cars.


Trim tool - For molding and trim and windows, this is a must

http://www.amazon.com/No-Scratch-Tools-Removing-Fastener-Molding/dp/B000LNBLTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692539&sr=8-4&keywords=bmw+tools


Tool Set - Here is your best bet for general tools. Start with this basic tool kit.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-96-011-170-piece-Mechanics-Tool/dp/B002VXN6TG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692665&sr=8-4&keywords=automotive+tool+kit

Code reader - then this so you can read check engine codes and properly fix the issue. This is a tool that will save you so much money.

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692484&sr=8-1&keywords=obd+2+scanner

Jacks stands - Not so important but pick up some cheap jack stands

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3E0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692837&sr=8-1&keywords=jack+stands

Light - And a very helpful thing is a good light

http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-1002-Halogen-Project-Light/dp/B000FW7UH4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692872&sr=8-2&keywords=work+lights

It looks like this - exact same design - except mine is all metal, the siphon hoses are clear and cost it $30 (can't find the exact one I have):

Koehler Enterprises RA990 Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit (for Gas Oil and Liquids) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0181EDCZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5lfrDbY36MTHC

The hosing is long and only 1/4" so can make it around the anti-rollover valve, although it takes some spinning and jiggling. It works on my VW Gti, Prius C and is long enough to work on the RV too.

You can see the tarp we use, which is great for the burn -- super heavy, and other fuel things on our packing list: https://www.trippingly.net/burning-man-bin-organization

I actually got this set . They go under the back and it keeps the whole thing pretty stable. I do like your idea more. It’s the one thing I feel like can definitely improve upon right now. One sharp movement or forget to chock the wheels and I’m rolling right off the stands I’ve got

I see no need for 240v. It is perhaps a move to future proof, but not needed right now. 12amp will charge the car overnight even if the battery is empty. As long as you have a good 15amp socket that can handle 12amp or a 20amp socket, you are fine to charge overnight.

If you want to leave a charger outside all the time too, I would recommend using a 3rd party charger to avoid having the factory one nabbed. I leave the factory one in my car for trips. I use this one every day and leave it outside: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075GJK2S9 It can work with 240v also if you do upgrade the outlet in the future, no need to buy another charger. The ends are easily removable and replaced for different outlet shapes with a screw driver.

You can also keep any charger out of the weather in a deck box if you need to charge outside because of no garage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BWNZKI0 I use this one, cut holes in the back at the top. The charger sits in the box out of the elements and keeps the charger off the ground and makes it a little harder for someone to see it and nab it so I don't have to constantly put it in the car or inside. Also this is free standing, so no need to mount to your house. You can put it in the best spot near where your car parks and not on the wall of the house.

How can you afford a 55 G drum of VG but not a pump?!

The cheapest method here will be a fuel transfer pump. I've used them to get old gasoline out of cars.

Might be easier to turn up the heat in the room or place a space heater by the drum to warm up the VG a bit before to make things go faster.

Here is the first one I found but I'm sure you could find it cheaper at like a Harbor Freight or any auto store:

Koehler Enterprises RA990 Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit (for Gas Oil and Liquids) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0181EDCZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fAs7xbHQNMW4M

Yes, I agree. We currently have two different types of fuel containers, and they're both fantastic.

We have one of these which is fantastic for pouring. I don't know why all the stores have those garbage, stiff hoses that end up getting gas everywhere, but this thing is fantastic.

-

We also have one of these, which is more expensive, but oh man it is a fantastic piece of work.

That's flippin' brilliant! I will certainly give that a shot. Doing a little research in case anyone else finds this...

Bags, Burner, Boiler (looks like old eagle metal gas can) assorted flex hoses, clamps and tape and should be good to go.

Do yourself a favor and get a motorycyle lift. A damn good investment, I assure you. Makes cleaning and maintenance much,much easier. Especially cleaning and lubing the chain.

Having the bike lifted of the ground would be great for winter time storage, as well, as it will take pressure of the suspension and tires; allowing you to avoid getting flat spots on the tires from sitting for a long time.

Plus, bikes looks cool af on a lift.

It really depends on how many miles you need to drive. L1 charging adds about 4 miles of range per hour of charging, so if you've got 10 hours to charge at night that means you'll get 40 miles of range per day. If your regular use is less than 40 miles per day in that case then you'd be fine.

You can also buy L2 chargers that plug right into your dryer outlet and will double (or more!) the charge speed, and there's no modification of anything required. You'd just have to plug and unplug the dryer and car charger every time you wanted to use one or the other, which would be inconvenient but not difficult. They are just as safe as using a L1 charger and are designed to be used that way. You just have to look at your dryer plug and make sure you buy a charger with the same kind of plug, since there are a couple different kinds of plugs for dryer outlets depending on how old your house is.

If you do eventually have an additional outlet installed for a dedicated L2 charger you could just have the same outlet installed as what your dryer uses and use the same charger you bought already, just plugging it into the new outlet so you don't have to swap it with the dryer anymore and don't have any additional expenses except the installation of the new outlet.

Torin TR6300 Creeper Seat
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COC67E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Well worth the $26 on amazon. Single best thing I have bought to use on long details the last few months. I do wish the wheels were a little larger to roll over cracks in the driveway a little better but still really nice.

Two things I'd reccomend.

1. use quality jackstands. A jack can leak and fail, don't trust your life to them.
   
   
2. the Tesla is heavier than a normal car of the same size, don't buy under a 3ton jack. I would most likely jack up with a single point and lower it onto stands to do the roto. (see edits below, as i don't want to deviate too far from what the MFG suggests in regards to lift point warnings)
   
   Other than that a car jack is a pretty straightforward buy. Picked this one up a few years back at a local shop, for about 145.
   
   
   Pittsburgh Automotive 3 Ton Heavy Duty Ultra Low Profile Steel Floor Jack with Rapid Pump Quick Lift https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LR753T8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.yfsDbB1HFPPP
   
   
   E: user below pointed out there are specific jack pads you can buy. I've had success on every car I've owned with just folding a shop rag and placing that on the jack cup prior to lifting the vehicle. This prevents any slippage and will grip better than the jack on the raw lift point.
   
   E2: I did some more digging and found that the jack points on the model 3 are jackpoint compatible. It would make sense to use recommended pucks and stands that fit the jackpoint hole. You could use something like this with relative ease. http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/home.html Note that i dont own them nor do i work for them.
   
   These are also pretty slick: https://safejacks.com/collections/compact-jack-stands/products/the-rennstand-by-safe-jack-single-unit
   
   It seems to be the consensus that you should only use the 4 designated lift points as the crossmembers are not available to you underneath the vehicle, so you cant get the front up on a single point. This means the jack will occupy the space you need to put the jack stand. Hence the reasoning for linking the two jackable stands.

It'll be far easier to fix and maintain a generator than it would be to do the same thing with a car. Cars are complex and have tens of thousands of parts whereas a generator is simple and can be easily fixed with cheap parts.

You'll spend $3k+ on a car and end up with extremely poor comparative fuel efficiency and costly maintenance while not even being able to power a fridge. In the end, you'll generate even less electricity than a simple $500 dedicated generator would. You gotta trust us all, you're in a car community. We're all telling you that cars make abysmally terrible electric generators.

If you get a generator that is powered by gas or diesel, get one of these and a filler hose. All you gotta do is fill up that thing like you'd fill up a car. Easy peasy

>Just wanted to make sure there wasn’t a generic mobile or home charger with similar performance as Tesla

So there are 3rd party mobile connectors you could buy that will plug into a NEMA 14-50 or other common wall outlets. You can find plenty of them on Amazon.

But most will cost you more than Tesla's $300 option and all will require you to use your J1772 to Tesla adapter with them. And I'm pretty sure there aren't any 3rd party chargers that have swappable plugs like Tesla's charger.

I suggest u amazon impact sockets (mm not sae) and deep impact sockets both in 1/2 instead of normal ones (I wish I did this =/ ). also buy a pipe that will go over the breaker bar to extend it. Unless workout like MMA fighter, u will need it

I also have this.

And a socket to drill adapter, makes life really easy. Even to just use scissor jack with.

You can get a Tesla to J1772 adapter and use your Tesla EVSE.

There are a couple different companies that make them, the TeslaTap and the JDapter Stub.

They are a bit pricey at $230-$250 but cheap compared to another EVSE.

Since the EVSE that came with the Tesla is a portable one, if you want one that's a bit more permanent you could always buy a different J1772 EVSE and use it with either your Bolt or your Tesla (with a J1772 adapter that came with the Tesla).

Not sure what your idea of a middle of the line charger is, For a "budget" model (that's not super cheap) you might want to consider the Siemens VersiCharge. It's a 30A unit that can be bought for under $400, though I've heard people report that this unit doesn't work well with the Bolt's "time of use" charge feature.

The one I have is the JuiceBox Pro 40, as the name implies it can charge at up to 40A (if you have a 50A circuit to feed it) and it has a lot more features including reporting on usage and control with your phone. It's more expensive at about $550 and there's a 32A unit which is about $50 less expensive.

One big advantage of the Tesla to J1772 adapter is it would allow you to use your Tesla EVSE as a portable 32A EVSE for your bolt if you ever decide to take it on a road trip (though honestly your Tesla is going to be a better road trip car).

Eagle cans they are made in the USA since the 1800s and are pretty affordable. If you don't wanna order one, I have found them at ACE Hardware stores - hard to find them at big box places.

They also don't have the pesky safety mechanism that seem to create more spills than they prevent.

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nEqwxbCXVF69F

It depends on the type of outlet. First, try to find an official adapter from Tesla. With the official adapter, your car will automatically detect the correct amps and volts for the plug.

If Tesla doesn't make an official adapter, you can try to find one online that converts to NEMA 14-50 and use the included 14-50 plug from Tesla. The downside to this is that the Tesla will think you're using a NEMA 15-50 plug and will attempt to draw power for that type of plug. Before plugging in, go into charge settings and lower the amps to what the outlets is actually capable of. For a 30 amp outlets, lower it to 24.

For example, my garage has a NEMA 10-30 outlet. Tesla used to make an adapter for this, but they don't anymore so I had to resort to 3rd party adapters. I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00STD8S7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482324615&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=nema+10-30+to+14-50+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41KnxpPUD%2BL&ref=plSrch

This adapter works well, but I have to lower the amps to 24 before charging. I wish Tesla would just let me buy their official 10-30 adapter. It would be much safer since the car would automatically grab the correct amount of amps.

I only buy those metal cans with the funnel attached (I think eagle makes them) they're expensive but save so much frustration.

Edit: these. actually not a bad price, the last time I bought one it was like $55

Thanks for the recommendations. Coleman's has 4 for $99 used which is pretty good.

Here are some links and reviews of No-Spill.

• Amazon 5 Gallon
  
• Amazon 2.5 Gallon
  
• Amazon 1.25 Gallon
  
• Home Depot 5 Gallon
  
• Home Depot 2.5 Gallon
  
• Home Depot 1.25 Gallon
  
  There are always some negative reviews, but like Is said I have the 1.25 and the can swells up in the heat as it truly is vapor leak proof for me. If I go with these I will get the flexible spout extension and the DOT approved cap.
  
  The cheapest I could find was around $27 shipped no tax.
  
  
  

I have one of these, I like it. Metal, 5 gallons, seals well, is easy to fill/pour. I got mine at Lowe's.

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JZWyDb6G82GAE

This one came with my (used) eGolf and it works just great! Easy to take with you as well.

Extreme Max 5001.5044 Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack - 1100 lb. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_rGt1Ab1YM58V5
I have this and it works perfectly for me. It lifts the bike tall enough to change your tires and stable enough too. And it's easy to store when you are not using it.

It's a water jug, not a jet fighter. How hard can filling it up be? What kind of question is this?

Maybe you're thinking about filling them up at the last minute before an emergency? If that's the case I'll say don't do that. Fill them both up now using whatever reasonable means you have at your disposal and maybe alternate emptying one out (either use it all up or dump it) and refilling it every month so you have a nice fresh backup supply if you need it.

Plain non-perfumed Clorox is great for disinfecting and preserving water. While eight drops per gallon is prescribed, I'll assume you get your water from an already clean municipal source. In that case, maybe just put 10 drops in your filled jug before putting it away.

If your concern is filling it up quickly in the field, in a hostile environment, and from a shallow water source I'll recommend something like this to include in your kit.

Otherwise... I don't know... this question is kinda...

Buy yourself an oil extractor it’ll be the best $100 you’ve ever spent. Definitely make sure your engine is war though, if it’s not it’ll take forever to extract. The best part is that you no longer have to left the car, you can do everything from the top.

> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STD8S7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Tz4syb71ZFEVN

Thanks for the tip. I saw this adapter on Amazon as well. Do you think it could be just as good?

Depends what your purchasing factors are. Is cost your main sale point or is functionality like wi-fi options something you care for?

I recommend Juicebox if you want everything in one package: https://www.amazon.com/JuiceBox-WiFi-equipped-Electric-Vehicle-Charging/dp/B00UB9R4KO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495805823&sr=8-3&keywords=juicebox+evse

Everything but the fuel filter is fairly straightforward. If you buy an oil evacuator like this Mityvac 7201 you don't even have to get under the vehicle to change the oil, you can suck out the oil through the dipstick tube. The oil filter is of the replacable element type and is located on the front of the block towards the right, and you can remove the cap with a 39mm socket. The real issue is the fuel filter-while it's fairly easy to replace you need to purge the fuel system afterwards using VSDS and a Micro-Can cable from Ross-Tech. It's pretty much impossible to do anything advanced on a VW without this tool, so you might as well plan to go ahead and buy it.

Not that it helps but I have had good luck with this model:


https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=pd_sim_86_11?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Qm42Jo4RL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR159%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=29JRFFYN19X5GX0AX181


5 gallon model costs $42, 2 gallon model costs $39.48.

I've got this (Extreme Max Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack - 1100 lb. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KPQEzbC5ZMP4Q). It's been pretty useful for chain stuff and other work I've done on the bike.

However, I got a Triumph center stand from a neighbor for cheap, so the jack doesn't get much use anymore. I'm on a bonneville, but I'd recommend a center stand to anyone. It's very convenient.

I've taken my 390 engine out like 5 times with a scissor lift from Amazon that was like $70 bucks, it's rated up to like 1000lbs or something

Edit: Extreme Max 5001.5044 Wide Motorcycle Scissor Jack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dV3PCbWV6FQBJ

Okay, so I am looking at getting a car still and want to try and do some of my own work.

When you jack up the car, what do are you supposed to use (if you don't have one of those big lifts)? [Something like this?](http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CMFN4E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB](http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CMFN4E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB)[Or this?](http://www.amazon.ca/Torin-T42002-Jack-Stands-Pairs/dp/B0028JQYPG/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_3_4HVK?ie=UTF8&refRID=15QJZ8WECKR5ASTT53JC) And how many would I need, like just to lift one side of the car (so 2)?

This is the guide I followed for replacing my transmission & differential oil. Had to educate myself on jack safety on Youtube as well. First time doing any type of mechanic work and hoping to do more in the near future :0)


Had to go back to the hardware store to return my original floor jack I bought since it was too large to mount to the two main jacking points. Got a low profile jack at a Harbor Freight store instead.


Which begs the question - where do people usually jack up cars that are lowered (springs/coilovers) besides the two main obvious spots shown in the manual? This low profile jack barely clears all the way to the front main jack point. This is without using a car lift at the jack stand points.

Pretty happy with these

One of the best Amazon purchases I've madr. Worth every penny. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FZB3N0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T5m2AbZK2BRP9

These are pricey but if you deal with gas regularly you'll love them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003FZB3N0

I'll spare you the long rundown and assume you're aware of the dangers of a Hi-lift jack. Long story short, they can be awesome, or awesomely dangerous if you don't know exactly what you're doing (people have died). That said, if you still want one, and you really want to blow his mind, then there are a couple "musts", such as:

1. Don't buy an offbrand.
   
   
2. The 48" Hi-Lift Extreme jack fits really nicely in the back of the 3rd Gen.
   
   
3. You absolutely have to buy tie downs or a mounting system for it; otherwise it becomes insanely dangerous in an accident. A guy on the T4R website makes amazing mounts that beautifully fit a 48" hijack mount across the back (check it out here)
   
   Source: I also own a lifted 1999 4Runner on 32"s

If you’re still looking for a replacement, I picked up [this EVSE](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GJK2S9) for traveling, and it’s worked great, and it was the cheapest I could find. Also looks like the one being used in the picture.

I use these jackstands and they are absolutely amazing. They make the other "best" jackstands sold at big box stores look puny in comparison. The only drawbacks are they're expensive (~$65/ea) and the lowest lift height is equivalent to around middle of the way up on normal/smaller jackstands.

http://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM

This is a great detailed review which is what turned me on to Esco: http://revlimiter.net/blog/2010/07/mega-jack-stand-review-1/

with that many miles, i wouldn't suggest draining/filling via the drain plug.

i'd suggest siphoning some out with a device like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Koehler-Enterprises-RA990-Multi-Use-Transfer/dp/B0181EDCZ6/

siphon out 2 qts worth, as its likely black. then fill in 2 qts.

in 1 month, do the same again. keep doing this

please keep in mind the condition of your ATF via color. here is a chart to help.
https://cdn-enterprise.discourse.org/cartalk/uploads/default/original/2X/a/ae8d95d195f3bc88f3aad95c4a7358a12600c85f.gif

in total, the job is likely to take 20-25 minutes... the point of this slow siphon/fill method is to slowly remove the garbage from your trans, without increasing the risk the trans blowing up.

I have this https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Max-5001-5044-Motorcycle-Scissor/dp/B0196PAZ1S and I'm happy with it. If you go with it buy a 7/8 deep socket and leave it on the stand for easy adjustments

I had an electrician add two NEMA 14-50 outlets (each with a dedicated cable run from my main breaker box) plus a 20A circuit (3 outlets) for power tools. I bought this house 10 years ago and have suffered with a single garage outlet. I was glad to have an excuse to hire an electrician.
I bought this JuiceBox charger. The charging cable is so much heavier than the one that came with the Prius (surprisingly heavier) but it’s worth it. I ordered the charger on the day I bought the car and it took a week to arrive. 5+ hours to charge the Prius meant we weren’t getting the most out of the range. Now it charges in about 2 hours. I love it. And the charger can connect to your WiFi for tracking charging.
A quick tip in case you’re planning to run 240v to your garage. Consider future proofing by running as many outlets as you think you may eventually need. Place at least one close to the door so you can run the 25’ cable to a car parked outside. I think the cables are generally limited to 25’ length. Also, a 40A charger requires a 50A circuit.

I just got a set of 4 of these and they are the premium option. My set was $133 but from a shady online dealer usa tool (had to wait a month but got them). Feels amazing to be under a car not propped by my shady stands https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM

I'm sure you could take it to an electrician and have them repair the cable.

Otherwise https://www.amazon.com/Zencar-Portable-Electric-Charging-Compatible/dp/B075GJK2S9/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=chevy%2Bvolt%2Blevel%2B1%2Bcharger&qid=1568658560&s=automotive&sr=1-3&th=1 looks pretty solid and can do 120V and 240V charging.

Actually, it's pretty simple with a shaker siphon. To maximize the local store's $ off fuel promo (35 gal maximum), I fill up the car/truck and up to four 5 gallon gas cans. Using the siphon to put the gas in the car later is easier than using even the old-style spouts.

Do a top-side oil change.

All you need is this $80 manual pump from Amazon, a new oil filter for you car, and the tool to open the oil filter housing (which depends on your car).

This is safer and much easier than going under the car. Plus you don't risk stripping your oil pan.

This won't work if your car doesn't have a dipstick (like some BMWs)

I like ESCO flat tops, particularly in cases where the vehicle has a flat jack pad:

https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM

Any type I gas can works a million times better

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LPKnDbPGNJC5A

I live in a condo, where I won't be able to install a 50A circuit.

I do however have a NEMA 10-30 for my dryer in my garage. I'll use a 10-30 to 14-50 adapter and set my Model 3 to charge at 24A.
Should be good to charge at about 22 miles/hour using the UMC.

Good enough for my needs until I move to a new place.

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Eagle+gas+can&qid=1558744993&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Are these any good? I don’t like the rubber handle, because gas has a tendency of eating it up

Since you seem knowledgeable, can you comment on the safety of using a quality steel can like this in the trunk of a car? I'll be in a very remote area and I'm very concerned about running out of gas.

The base is completely different, allowing for a much wider array of uses, as is the additional top jaw.

They do, however charge $149.55 for the 'conversion kit'

http://firstresponder.hi-lift.com/resources/First_Responder_Conversion_Kit_Flyer.pdf

This is a better comparison:
http://smile.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-XT485-48-X-TREME/dp/B0017T7WHW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464054291&sr=1-1&keywords=hi-lift+xtreme

where it has the additional top jaw, at that point it's $100 for paint, stickers and a base.

Tire iron kit,
Bead buddy (helps when taking the tire off), Lift (this has worked well for my KLR, combine with a couple of jack stands for more stability)

Other things that help: rubber mallet, needle nose pliers, SERVICE MANUAL, torque wrenches.

PlugShare is your friend. Visit the website, get the app, get familiar with charger locations.

Check to see if the car qualifies for the No Charge to Charge program from Nissan. This will allow you get charge free at select chargers for 2 years.

Nissan's EZ Charge app also tells you where the chargers that are Nissan compatible are. Bonus, it is also blatantly obvious about where you can leverage No Charge to Charge, again, only if you qualify for that.

When planning on going on a long distance drive, be familiar with where the chargers are along the way.

If you haven't already, look in to an L2 charger for use at home. Most folks will get a JuiceBox Pro 40A which enables them to track power utilization via WiFi. Bonus of getting the JuiceBox vs some of the others is that the JuiceBox uses the NEMA 14-50 connector, which enables you push more power later on. Basically buying for all electric cars you might buy, not just this one. Plus cheaper that the ChargePoint at home variant, though the ChargePoint at home Variant is handy for tracking charges at home, and not at home.

Get the apps for the Chargers in your area. As mentioned, there's ChargePoint, Greenlots, and others. PlugShare is good for finding the chargers regardless of brand/owner. The brand/owner apps are handy for actually using those chargers, and seeing whether or not they're in use, or online. When you get to the charger, the app can let you enable it, and track the charging status.

Don't be too worried about the charger vendor variants. It's basically like having RaceTrac, Wawa, Mobile, Exxon, gas stations and such. You might prefer going to one brand over the other, but it helps to know where the others are for when you're in dire need of a charge.

Other than that, just learn to leverage regenerative braking (B-Mode) while driving, and avoid hard accelerations, and hard braking.

I love my Esco stands

A siphon pump is going to be your best bet. Less than ten dollars.

Koehler Enterprises RA990 Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit (for Gas Oil and Liquids) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0181EDCZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7kJOyb5JVPD8R

I debated between ramps and jack stands for my C. I ended up getting these jack stands for $16 (now $20). They're cheaper than ramps, easier to use (no worry of driving up/off of the ramps) and I can rotate the tires while changing the oil, too. The V is about 3,300 lb, so the 2 ton jacks should be fine, but the 3 ton ones are only $26 if it makes you feel better.

Get some car jack stands under the server, then undo the cage nuts. Easy extract, and you get bonus jack stands when you're done.

So I was lucky. My 100A subpanel was in my garage.

I had an electrician come and install a 240V/40A outlet about 2 meters from the sub panel. He went through sheetrock and didn't spackle (and neither have I). That was about $350.

I then purchased a Level 2 portable charger on Amazon. The electrician and I chose the outlet type, in my case I chose a NEMA 6-50. You get what you think is right for your electrical grid.

Here's the product link.

That was about $350 when I bought it.

So total expense to me was about $700.

Whether you want a "charging station" or "place to charge" is up to you and your aesthetics/finances.

They look like Esco Jack stands. I've been wondering myself what the quality is like.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/ESCO-10498-Jack-Stand-Capacity/dp/B0019JVIPM&ved=0ahUKEwiL1O_TjYTUAhXBOSYKHX5MALcQFgiDATAA&usg=AFQjCNHSLQYguOkfpvniLtj_F2FU1z_CVQ&sig2=TsPmFQEQy9UW2kc_5CpCaw

Not cheap, but of the several kinds I own, these are my favorite.

ESCO 10498 Jack Stand, 3 Ton Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019JVIPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LASlzbAFRVNNE

Oh for the couple hundred extra I meant the smart ones.

$550 for the Juicebox https://www.amazon.com/JuiceBox-Electric-Vehicle-Charging-Station/dp/B00UB9R4KO

Chargepoint $520-$560 https://www.amazon.com/ChargePoint-Enabled-Electric-Vehicle-Charger/dp/B071YDJ1F6?th=1

OpenEVSE $550 https://www.openevse.com/stations.html

Those all get you web interfaces with reporting, ability to set charge times and rates, etc.

Local box store such as lowes or order via amazon. The funnel is removable, but obviously useful for filling up mowers, other cans, etc...

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3512-Motorsport/dp/B003TTV972

You can still buy a decent jug. They're still made. People haul those jugs off into the middle of nowhere on off-road vehicles that get beat the fuck up and the jugs endure just fine. They're vented, the caps are really durable, and they come with a nice long hose spout.

Amazon doesn't have the cheapest price on them, you can find them for as low as $24, but the free shipping is a plus.

Edit: I just looked further down the listing and the filler hose is extra, not included. Be sure to get one.

Bought one of these a few years ago, great for yard equipment and the like but a total pain if you want to put gas in a car without another funnel. Anyways it's a little cheaper on Amazon:

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LSa6Cb6J7PRR3.

ahh man all you guys had to do was get some powdered sanitizer and hot water and a one of those hand pumps and pump the hot water with sanitizer thorugh it. this and this

Bought this for $300 and it's working well

MUSTART Level 2 Portable EV... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077DC39J9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Best of my utility company gives a $250 rebate for putting in the L2 charger. Could have gotten a "free" 16a charger that was listed at $220 but I figured I have 32a why not get all of it?

My wife bought us this one, and I have to say it is stupid easy to refill a generator with the do-hickey on top. Plus, the mouth is so large that when you're re-filling it at the gas station, the pump handle doesn't keep clicking in your hand.

I just did mine (including tranny & transfer case) at 60k miles and the fluids didn't seem too bad (not sludgy or totally black). I will not be doing it every 30k.

​

It was not easy. We finally paid someone to weld a 10mm hex socket into the front diff drain plug as we tried everything to get that fucker out and stripped it in the process.

​

It will be easy next time, though.

​

PS This is the most awesome thing for sucking out/pumping in fluids

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwho7rBRDxARIsAJ5nhFpOMbtsNP56Tf0kjUqSupPS_-R7M1tMbWK9wJ-NGLJn1GLKhQk0kmAaApiSEALw_wcB&hvadid=177593407371&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9032190&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t2&hvqmt=e&hvrand=7534587416468078734&hvtargid=aud-649564993678%3Akwd-32496863643&hydadcr=7482_9586280&keywords=mityvac+mv7201&qid=1566842670&s=gateway&sr=8-1

ok, so like the second one I posted. The triangle in the middle isn't part of the plug receptacle. Well, that is an old dryer plug and to use it you would need a 10-30 adapter. Telsa sold these at one time but I don;t believe they do any more. The alternative would be an adapter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-30-Amp-Electric-Vehicle-Adapter/dp/B00STD8S7C

BUT!!! if you were to use an adapter like the one above, a NEMA 10-30P to 14-50, you must manually set the amps on the screen of the car, otherwise you will overload the circuit. The car will think it's connected to a 14-50 (50 AMP) circuit when its actually connected to a 10-30 (30 AMP) circuit. The standard is to only pull 80% of the circuit so you should set the amps on the screen of the car to 24 when you plug in. This would still give you a charge rate over 7 times faster than a standard 110 outlet.

Edit: and to add, I have no idea where to get one of these adapters locally. They do not have a common use.

I saw this the other day if you really need to save the money, I dunno if I would trust my expensive car to a $200 charger but 🤷‍♂️

Zencar Level 2 EV Charger(100-240V,16A,25ft+3ft) Portable EVSE Home Electric Vehicle Charging Station Compatible with Chevy Volt, Nissan Leaf, Fiat, Ford Fusion (NEMA6-20 with Adapter for NEMA5-15) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075GJK2S9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VkHSCbMA4P9TR

I hate referencing amazon, but this is probably all you need. $20 and it might save your life. link: jack stands

Hey all! I asked my apartment about being a Tesla Charger partner and they applied! They also asked for a recommendation for a charging solution for all cars. Which one is considered the best for all EVs?

Edit, is this one advised? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UB9R4KO

Yes, that's right. I replaced the stock charger with this:
reddit!

Don't be cheap with raising your car up, seriously. What's saving 30 bucks when your life is at stake? 25 bucks at amazon for a pair of 3 ton stands.

Please do not use blocks of wood.

You can still get these new

Eagle UI-50-FS Red Galvanized Steel Type I Gasoline Safety Can with Funnel, 5 gallon Capacity, 13.5" Height, 12.5" Diameter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oEi6Cb118P705

No-Spill makes a good one. Has a spring loaded valve on the back of the spout that you push with your thumb.

Whoops. You're right. I like this one! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UB9R4KO/ref=pd_aw_sbs_263_1/137-5128408-0679733?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HQSVRYFPPHZRDQ6RGE6S&dpPl=1&dpID=51%2BkfiDRvML

Mityvac 7201.

I've never had to take off the drain bolts on any of my cars for over 10 years; I always just mityvac out, remove filter, new filter and then add in new oil. Clean up is a breeze too.

Just buy a 3rd party one.

http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-30-Amp-Electric-Vehicle-Adapter/dp/B00STD8S7C

It was all separate. The charger cable and 50 amp wire I bought on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077DC39J9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HEHCMS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The rest is from Home Depot.

You can get a siphon pump or a piece of clear tubing and your mouth.

I bought this a couple of months ago for a rear shock swap on my Road Glide and it worked perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0196PAZ1S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

That is not actually an issue with HPDE, they actually use it for fuel/automotive containers. Although, some plastics will melt like polystyrene.

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3512-Motorsport/dp/B003TTV972

I actually think this is a great idea. Maybe something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017T7WHW

I got these a while back.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO86BY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_bcStybKPMP9EB. They feel really solid. More than enough for my 2 ton Acura specially when I'm only lifting up one side. But never hurts to be cautious i suppose.

It's the JuiceBox Pro EVSE on amazon for $600.

They also have the regular JuiceBox (without the wifi extras) for $500.

I have this can (red) and this hose. My dad used them for our dirtbikes when I was growing up so there's a bit of nostalgia in them for me.

harbor freight has 3 ton jack stand for $21 a pair right now. I would have bought them but their locking mechanism is shit imo. I got these instead still waiting for them to be delivered https://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Stands/dp/B00026Z3E0. Going to put concrete blocks under the tires too when I lift the car up. Just bought some nice solid rubber chocks at Harbor freight for like $7.99 each, way better than the flo tools crap one's. Then went next store to advance auto parts and bought a 2-ton jack that was on sale for $24.99, that I have yet to open.

Here's an example of an EVSE that isn't listed. This one's straight from China.

Here you go

Your wheel is probably not thick enough, these are worth the price.

Holy cow. Did they sell you a Level 3 or level 2 charger?

A L3 charger uses the CHADEMO port on the Leaf (the left side one) and you do NOT want to be doing that on a daily basis. It's going to heat up and wear the pack out quickly. It is highly unusual to have such an installation in a home. If you do have such a beast, you are going to definitely want to limit the charge rate--probably around 10kW.

A L2 charger uses 220-240V and charges at a rate of 6.6kW on a 2018 Leaf. It plugs into the J1772 port on the front of the car. This is what you should install in your home as it charges roughly 5x faster than L1 charging at 110V. This would take 6 hours to go from 0-100%.

A L1 charger charges on a standard 110V outlet (like you use for any appliance in your house). It charges at a rate of 1.5kW. For a 40 kWh leaf, this would take something like 29 hours from 0-100%.

Typically a home user will have a 50A 220V circuit run to a plug on the wall. Then you would buy a Juicebox Pro 40 and charge with that:
https://www.amazon.com/JuiceBox-Electric-Vehicle-Charging-Station/dp/B00UB9R4KO?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-brave-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00UB9R4KO

If the charger is tripping the circuit breaker, something definitely sounds wrong. Keep in mind 22kWh is 100 Amps of current, which is a TON of power. You may be over-drawing what the house can provide and this could be a safety issue.

P.S. This info is valid for the US. Countries with 220V standard electrical service may differ.

Only ones we used to sell at my shop, because we stood by them. never had an issue with mine, and I love how there's and actual button instead of the usual push down nozzle bullshit.

Edit: after reading those reviews, it looks like a lot are missing the O-ring for the nozzle. Might not be preinstalled if you order it directly. I had to put them together before we sold them in our store.

Solid deal right now https://www.amazon.com/Pittsburgh-Automotive-Heavy-Ultra-Profile/dp/B00LR753T8/ref=sr_1_5?crid=13F47ITVMCJXO&keywords=jack+lift+car&qid=1572704169&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&rnid=2661617011&sprefix=jack+lift%2Caps%2C130&sr=8-5

These actually don't suck

https://www.amazon.com/No-Spill-1450-5-Gallon-Poly-Compliant/dp/B000W9JN4S/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=gas%2Bcan&qid=1566782530&s=gateway&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1

I'd actually throw the Juicebox Pro at $599 in the consideration mix as well. I'm thinking about getting it for all the smart/wifi features. It has most of the same features as the Chargepoint charger, but cheaper.

because some transmissions dont have dipsticks, but when you change the fluid you also should change the filter.

If you have a dipstick and want to pull the fluid out that way, you just need a pump. Like this one but that doesn't really prepare you for how doable this actually is.

Go for "racing" gas cans. They're exempt from the gas can law's.

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Racing-Fuels-3512-Motorsport/dp/B003TTV972

you will want the one made specifically for EVs, the one you linked wont work.

This one will:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STD8S7C

I did this at my last house before putting down hardwood floors and can't recommend it highly enough - it's one of the best quality of life improvements I made.

A couple of tips in addition to what OP said:

Once the carpet was up I found all the joists and marked them with a chalk line. This is optional, but meant I didn't have to look for existing nails every few inches... I could turn my brain off and just follow the chalk lines.

I screwed the decking down about every 6 inches. Before I started I cut a scrap piece of wood to that length so I didn't have to measure anything. Just throw the block down next to where your last screw was and screw right into the chalk line at that spot.

To save my knees I used a mechanic's creeping stool, like this. It's still hard on the back, but it helps.

It took me an entire Saturday, and over 450 screws to cover my master bedroom. But it was 100% worth the time investment.

Before putting down the hardwood I put down a quality underlayment - this also cut down on noise.

I have spilt way more fuel worth the new versions than I ever did with older ones. I recently threw away all my gas cans and ordered a few of these. https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=gas%2Bcan&qid=1567700539&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1&psc=1

It’s pretty much a tea kettle without all the safety crap. Haven’t spilled a drop.

If you think you're going to finish the keg you could always just use a hand pump. They sell them at HD or Harbor Freight for a couple bucks. You'd just have to worry about oxidation if you leave the O2 on the beer if you don't finish it.

I do this to push sanitizer through so I don't waste CO2.

This was $5 at harbor freight: Koehler Enterprises RA990 Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit (for Gas Oil and Liquids) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0181EDCZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Yld.AbJMSA7W1

A bluetooth OBD 2 reader and an Android code reader.

Other than that, a creeper

I used serpentine oil, this one: https://www.amazon.com/Supco-CE441-Zoom-Spout-Oiler/dp/B00DM8JK2G

Extreme Max 5001.5044 5001.5044... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196PAZ1S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Just get these. They'll come in handy.

Here…

$18 for a pair of 3 ton stands shouldn't break the bank.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028JQYPG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_OQmAub18JM8GV

$35 for 5gal gasoline type 1

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=eagle+safety+can+5+gallon&qid=1558783784&s=gateway&sprefix=eagle+safety&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/

My family has several Eagle gas cans that are many decades old and still get the job done.

I prefer Shaker Siphons.

Put this at the other end:

https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Big-Steel-Jack-Stands/dp/B000CO86BY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520369095&sr=8-1&keywords=jackstand

Should be sturdy enough...

Here is the desktop version of your link

or buy this...

I bought the same on amzn.
Conntek 30-Amp NEMA 10-30P Dryer Plug to 50-Amp Electric Vehicle Adapter Cord for Tesla https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STD8S7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Tz4syb71ZFEVN

I dialed the charge down to 30amps and breaker hasn't tripped Bc I think it's pulling 27-28 amps.

Here is the link

I use one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EH0ORI

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004Y75M/ref=psd_mlt_bc_B00004Y75M

I've been using these cans for a few years. They are a bit pricey, but they have been durable and I don't spill any gas.

I'm going to second this, but add that I use the one with a built-in hose which has been very reliable. Mine have been stored in my non-climate controlled barn for years with no adverse effects. The valve take a bit of practice to get used to using, but not a bother after that. I use an old wine cork to keep bugs and dust out of the hose.

Also note: I only use real gas and a stabilizer in these cans. For the slight extra cost, I can use it in all of my vehicles, farm equipment, and power equipment without worrying about the ethanol content. I buy the stabilizer in bulk from Amazon as well.

I’ve got this one and have been pretty happy with it. It’s a little bit of a pain to fill - you have to remove the funnel to do so. But I have no problem when it comes to filling lawn and garden gas tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-UI-50-FS-Galvanized-Gasoline-Capacity/dp/B00004Y75M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=gas+can+metal+5+gallon&qid=1558726693&s=gateway&sprefix=gas+can+m&sr=8-3

Every jack stand rating I've seen is for a pair. Here's my Craftsman 2 1/4 ton stands, for example(look in the warning section). Some Harbor Freight stands. These stands on Amazon also specifically state their rating is for the pair.

I took the rubber pads off my footpegs and then I flipped my footpegs upside down and put a Jack Stand underneath each one, the bike will balance back and forth I propped up each side with some random stuff laying around (i used a bucket and a spray paint can lol)

​

It's def jerry rigged together, but a quick and cheap fix, also it's extremely sturdy.

Not trying to be a jerk, but buy some jack stands. They're cheap and wayyyyy safer than keeping a vehicle on a jack. Jack vehicle up, insert jack stand, put vehicle down on jack stand. Fucker isn't going to move after that! (DON'T use the jack stand as shown in the amazon pictures, that's a great way to fuck up your body work. Put it under a frame member!)

Or, like my old truck, you could just reach in over the front tire to replace the oil filter, and combined with a fumoto valve on the drain plug you have a no tools oil change! (Unless a drain pan counts as a tool, of course.)

I just bought 4 x Wavian 5 Gallon NATO Jerry cans from CampingMaxx and they are great - https://www.campingmaxx.com/nato-jerry-gas-can.html

Fit perfectly in my 2017 Escape (Same trunk as yours). I got 4 cans in red, and got 2 spouts. I also have a shaker siphon on the way - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EH0ORI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.1iTybARPWCNP

https://i.imgur.com/WZRkeGg.jpg

They are pricey, but worth it!

The quality NATO cans also do not vent or anything, so in the entire time taking these 4 home from the gas station, I didn't even get a wiff of gas. I would have no concern leaving these in my car in the event of evacuation or anything. I would probably avoid driving around with them all the time though, as if you had a bad accident they could break open and leak gas everything

If you get four, they line up with the rear seats perfectly, so a strap could go all the way round

EDIT: Here is my full EDC, since you have an Escape too... https://www.reddit.com/r/VEDC/comments/67res8/updated_vedc_album_38_images/

I looked up the MUSTART portable Level 2 charger on Amazon, is this what you're referring to?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077DC39J9

If so, I have two questions:

• Did you get the 32A or 40A version? Just asking because there's another Amazon verified purchase customer who claims to have gotten the 40A version for their Chevy Bolt 2019, but as the official docs say (and you said yourself), the Chevy Bolt 2019 maxes out its pull at 32A.
  
  
• Do you plug in directly to a NEMA14-50 drop on the wall, or did you get one of those NEMA14-50 to 120V adapters like this one?

http://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11930-Hugger-Wheel-Chock/dp/B000BQYH6Q


http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3E0

Cheaper than a funeral!

Clog fuel filters, clog injectors, gum up your fuel pump,dirty your MAF, etc. Lots of bad stuff that will make a $1000 car a write off

https://www.amazon.com/Koehler-Enterprises-RA990-Multi-Use-Transfer/dp/B0181EDCZ6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=transfer+pump&qid=1555898667&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Next time, use a siphon pump.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0181EDCZ6/

You should have one somewhere for emergencies.

P.S. call poison control!

I have this one: link

Easy to use. You tip it into whatever you want to fill then press and hold the button behind the spout. Gas comes out and you release when you get to the amount you want. No leaks, no spills, stupid simple to use. Only downside is that it can be a bit of a pain in the ass to get the top off. Takes some force sometimes.


Edit: I am seeing people having issues with the o-ring. I haven't had an issue with mine and it sits with gas in it a lot(I bought it for working on a snowblower). Not saying it isn't an issue I just don't have experience with it.

These if you plan on leaving them up for any extended amount of time. The ones you posted I use as secondary backups in case the mains fail. I want to avoid getting crushed to death if possible.